Learn how to lay laminate flooring in your own home thanks to the help of builder Andy Stevens and his top tips for laying a tongue and groove no glue, laminate flooring system. Whether you are looking to lay laminate flooring or engineered wood in your home, follow our easy step-by-step guide and watch the video below.
(MORE: Our complete guide to flooring)
The Benefits of Laminate Flooring
The major benefits of laminate flooring is that it’s very durable, often less prone to scratching and lasts much longer than other natural woods. Most laminate flooring is anti-fade and is moisture resistant too.
Laminate flooring is usually found in high traffic areas which have a huge footfall as it is so long lasting. It’s ideal if you have children and pets.
Plus above all it's easy to maintain and look after.
Your Tool Kit
- Your choice of laminate flooring and underlay
- Stanley knife
- Protective gloves
- Tape measure
- Gaffa tape
- Spirit level
- Circular saw or hand saw
- Flat wood drill bit
- Pulling ledge
- Optional – beading/trim
How to Lay Laminate Flooring - Your Step-By-Step Guide
Follow Andy Stevens' easy guide below and become a pro at laying laminate flooring at home.
Prepare the Floor
1. Remove existing carpet, and underlay using a Stanley knife. Pull up the edges, then roll away and remove.
2. Use a crowbar or lever to remove the old gripper rods but make sure you wear protective gloves.
To fix loose floorboards mark the location of the joists so you know where to drill. It’s a good idea to use a pilot bit in your drill as older floorboards can split when using a larger screw.
3. Remove any loose floorboards and check the positioning of any pipework or cables, then fix them into place.
Remove all staples left from the underlay and either remove or hammer any protruding nail heads flush with the floorboards. Finish by sweeping over the floor to ensure a clean surface that is free from debris.
(MORE: How to revive wood floors)
Lay New Underlay
Always go with the best underlay you can afford. Try to find ones that are sound and thermal insulated and ones that contain moisture protection incase of any future pipe leaks or water spills.
4. Lay fresh underlay and tape the joints ensuring seconds don't overlay.
For larger rooms, lay the underlay in the opposite direction to the floorboards unless you have a tight space, then it's fine to follow the same direction as the floorboards. Leave a small gap of approximately half an inch to the wall and cut the underlay to shape.
5. Using gaffa or fabric tape, fix the edges of the underlay together, ensuring that the edges do not overlap and create an uneven surface.
Measure Your Room for Laminate Flooring
6. When opening the packaging of your new flooring cut down the edges of the box or tear the box open with your hands to prevent any accidental damage and scratches to the floor.
7. Measure the width of the room and the floorboards to ascertain the number of boards you will need (leaving a small 12mm expansion gap around the edge).
8. If your room has a radiator with flow and return pipes going into the floorboards, this is a good place to lay your first board.
You’ll need to cut a hole on the joint between two floorboards to allow for the pipe. By laying these boards first, you can ensure the easiest location for the cut.
Cut Your Laminate Flooring to Size
9. When going around a pipe, centre the board by the radiator pipe and then work out the space you have to fill either size towards the walls. You can work this out by measuring the space and then how many boards will fill the space.
Mark the centre of a ‘tongue’ board, where it will go around the pipe. For example if your pipe is 25mm, measure 7.5mm each side of your centre mark.
You will have a mark wide enough for your radiator so you need to make a semicircular cut. Repeat this on the ‘groove’ board.
10. Now make sure the marks line up and use a drill bit (in this case 22mm) and create your hole match up. Then cut the end bit off to fit behind your radiator pipe.
11. Slot the two pieces together to fit around the radiator pipe.
Laying the Boards
12. Once your first board is down ensure it is square to the wall by remeasuring the gap to the wall in various points down the board .
Then measure from the end of the laid board (not including the tongue) to the edge of the room (minus the 12mm expansion gap) and cut your next board accordingly.
13. Slot the pieces together and his will complete your first run.
14. Rather than throw away any off cuts, start the next run with the off cut from the previous board which will ensure staggered joints as well as reducing wastage. Then you run the same again - cut off, full board and cut off.
Continue until the room is complete.
15. For the final run, it’s highly likely you will have to have to cut the board to size along the length of the board. Rooms are not always perfectly square, so make sure you measure the width of the gap at various points and cut the final boards accordingly.
Continue laying the boards right into the doorway. Use your flooring bar to keep pulling it tight.
16. Once the flooring is laid, you can cover the expansion gap with beading (this gap will also be covered by your skirting boards if they had been removed or weren’t present before you laid the floor).
Cut your beading at a right angle for a professional finish, using a strong glue to secure or pin them into place with a pin gun.
17. Finally when it comes to the doorway, you will need to attach an appropriate threshold depending on the flooring between the two spaces (such as a carpet-to-laminate option).
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