Failing mortar shouldn't be left to chance. It can quickly lead to serious issues for your home. When gaps start to appear between bricks, water can penetrate the structure, leading to damp patches and weakened exterior walls. Plus it doesn't look good either and can damage your kerb appeal.
The good news is, repointing brickwork is a relatively simple solution, and inexpensive if you do it yourself. Removing the old mortar and replacing it with new will protect your property for years to come.
But, choose the wrong right mortar mix, and you could be creating more problems than you are fixing. Find out what the experts have to say.
Why repoint brickwork
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Mortar is softer than bricks and stone, and at some point in a building's life, it will start to deteriorate. But don’t panic, this is meant to happen. If the mortar mix was harder than the bricks, the bricks themselves would take the brunt of weathering, causing them to erode and fail.
But why repoint? Joe Burton, Decorating and Brick Slip Expert at The Brick Tile Co, explains. “You repoint to stop water getting in where it shouldn't be. Once mortar starts crumbling, rain soaks into the wall, freezes and blows the brick faces off.”
But it's not the only reason you should consider repointing he continues. “It also stops damp tracking through internally and keeps the structure solid. Ignore it, and a small job becomes a much bigger, costlier one.”
Joe Burton is the Brand Director at The Brick Tile Company and a specialist in brick slips and interior applications. His experience spans everything from early-stage design decisions through to installation guidance, helping clients achieve beautiful homes.
Tools you'll need to repoint brickwork
Making sure you have the right tools to hand can prevent you making repointing mistakes, so we suggest you consider sourcing the following if you don't already have them. The type of mixer you choose will naturally depend on how large an area you are repointing.
- Chisel
- Cement mixer
- Pointing trowel
- Mortar board (like this QOTSTEOS Mortar Board Holder from Amazon)
- Soft brush
- Wire brush (like this Forney Wire Scratch Brush from Amazon)
- Lime
- Sand
- Cement
Try these tools to help with repointing brickwork
If you're mixing up a small batch of mortar in a bucket, this paddle makes quick light work of the job. It is equipped with a 2-speed gearbox and a 133 mm mortar stirrer.
When tackling a large repointing job a cement mixer is called for. This electric mixer is ideal for mixing plaster, mortar and concrete and has a 90L hopper for easy pouring.
When repointing, you need the right trowel. This pointing trowel features a small, durable steel blade with a tapered, narrow tip and a soft grip, making it ideal for shaping mortar.
Choosing the right mortar
There are two components to think about when repointing: the mortar mix and colour. These typically go hand in hand, depending on the brickwork being worked on.
Deciding on mortar mix
Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb, shares what mortar type should be used for repointing. “For most modern homes, a cement-based mortar is typically used, as it provides a good base of strength and durability, while older properties will most likely use a lime mortar to allow breathability and accommodation for natural movement.”
Choosing the wrong mortar is a common problem, shares Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova home improvements. “This is where most amateur mistakes arise.” There are two options, he explains: “Mortar in modern houses constructed after 1920 is typically made of cement.” But this isn’t the case for older homes.
“In buildings that were erected before 1920, lime mortar should be used as older bricks are much more susceptible to damage and cement traps water, resulting in cracks and spalling.”
For cement mortars, Angelo says, “using a regular 4:1 ratio of sharp sand and cement is suitable.” Alternatively, he recommends ready-mixed mortars such as Tarmac Blue Circle Mortar Mix (available from Toolstation) and Cemex Ready-to-Use Mortar.
Joe Burton suggests a couple of other options. “I’d recommend Hanson Mastercrete or Blue Circle Snowcrete for cement jobs.”
For lime mortars, Angleo says, “a 3:1 ratio NHL 3.5 lime and sharp sand mix should suffice. Good choices for lime include Singleton Birch Natural Hydraulic Lime or premixed St Astier or Cornish Lime. Always ensure mortar matches the colour of the joint by testing small patches,” he adds. Joe also recommends, NHL 3.5 from Lime Green or St. Astier, or Ty-Mawr’s pre-mixed Hotlime.
Choosing a colour
An often-forgotten element of mortar is its colour. Joe Burton explains why it's important. “One thing people don't think about enough is that mortar makes up for 20% of the overall appearance of standard brickwork. So the colour and finish you choose really matter.
“There are broadly three colours of mortar," he explains. "Off-white and cream give a crisp, modern look that complements warmer red bricks. Buff and beige are the classic all-rounders as they suit pretty much any brick without stealing attention. Darker greys add drama and make the bricks feel richer, especially on period properties or chimney breasts.”
If you're not sure which to choose, you could simply replicate the original colour. Joeshares how to get a colour you want. "You can play around with colour," he says. "Premixed bags give you consistency, or you can mix your own using different sands and cements.”
Mark has over 20 years of experience in the building sector, leading to a wealth of knowledge surrounding building and renovating that he enjoys sharing with others who are looking to complete their own building projects.
Angelo Patrizi runs Nuova Home Improvements, a hands-on renovation company based in Berkshire, UK. They specialise in full home renovations, extensions, loft conversions, kitchens and bathrooms.
Step-by-step guide to repointing brickwork
1. Clear the wall area
In many home renovation projects, plants will have been growing up against the walls, so these should be pinned back and then tethered into place before any work can start.
Repointing brickwork is also a messy job, so plastic sheets should be laid over flower beds, new paving and areas of grass that are close-by.
2. Remove old mortar
Old pointing is commonly removed with a hammer and chisel, with particular care taken near the areas discussed in the following steps. It's important to note that disturbing old mortar around windows can affect the way they fit (and open). The chisel is therefore used on its own to chip out only the loose material.
Alternatively, Joe Burton says to, "rake out soft or crumbling mortar to a depth of about 15-20mm. Use a plugging chisel and a lump hammer, or a mortar raking disc in an angle grinder but carefully, so you don’t widen the joint or nick the bricks.”
3. Focus on doorways
If mortar gets pushed into the gap between the wall and the frame it can cause the door frame to move and make the door hard to open and close.
Loose mortar should be raked out gently with a narrow chisel. Metal gutter brackets are also prone to falling out if they are disturbed during the chopping-out phase, so work carefully.
4. Expose the brick edges
The ‘brick edges’ is what's left after the old mortar has been removed. The edge of the stone is revealed all round and there is now a gap wide enough to take (and hold) the fresh mortar which will soon be applied to the wall.
5. Remove excess dust
Plenty of dust is left in the gaps between the stones once the old mortar has been removed. This should be brushed out gently before repointing begins.
6. Mix the mortar
To keep the colour of the mortar consistent for the whole job, the mix should be carefully measured out before you start. Level each full bucket off at the top, and for any part-filled buckets, draw a line inside the bucket to ensure you have the correct amounts.
7. Work from the top down
Repointing is generally done from the top of the wall downwards. However, if you have a solid wall without a damp-proof course this will hold a lot of moisture, so this section should be done first – giving it more time to dry.
Push the mortar in firmly, working from right to left.
8. Fill the vertical joints
Once two or three courses have been repointed, the vertical joins between are filled too. Allow the mortar to overlap all the joints, and don't yet make any attempt to neaten it up.
With the bottom half metre of the wall complete, the top section can then be started. If you're wondering about timings, a team of two should be able to complete this stage of a 24m2 wall in around 5 hours.
Leave the mortar until nearly dry. How long the drying process takes depends on the weather and the position of the house in relation to the sun.
9. Remove any excess mortar
Once dry, a wire brush should be used to take off the excess mortar and leave a face joint that is only just recessed from the face of the wall. However, this may depend on the region in which you live. In some areas of the country, or on older buildings, a deeper joint or one that is flush with the wall may be considered a more appropriate brickwork pointing style.
The wire brush also cleans up the stonework as it moves over the surface.
10. Check the finished look
Make sure you take a close-up look of the finished job. With face joints now clearly defining the stones, the wall should look great, and be equipped to withstand years of weathering.
Additional tips for repointing brickwork yourself
- Use a narrow chisel – Using a narrow chisel around windows and doors minimises the risk of pushing loose pieces further in around the frame
- Go careful with an angle grinder – The use of an angle grinder should really be avoided – it is easy to slip and damage the face of the brickwork or stone and is unnecessary with most traditional lime-based mortars
- Keep joints moist – When you have a space large enough to take the new mortar, stop raking out and brush the joints down. Then give the joints a spray with water – this helps the new mortar dry out evenly. Wait for the water to dry off before repointing
- Match up mortar – Aim to replicate the colour, texture and durability of the existing mortar. Carefully measure each component of your mortar and make a note of the quantities used to ensure each bucket load matches the last.
- Create an open texture – A slightly open final texture tends to look more attractive than a very smooth one. An easy way to achieve this is to gently rub the filled joint with a stick or rubber, and then to softly brush it over before it dries
- Keep mortar moist – To avoid the new mortar drying out too quickly, spray the joints lightly with water from time to time
Repointing brickwork costs
Repointing brickwork is a task that DIYers can take on, especially for smaller jobs. If you decide to tackle repointing yourself, you will need to consider material and scaffolding costs (if needed). These will vary greatly depending on how much scaffolding you need and how long you need it for. As a general guideline, expect to pay anywhere from £500 upwards.
For large repointing jobs, it's wise to call in a professional. Joe Burton says, “expect to pay £40–£75 per square metre for standard cement repointing, and more for lime mortar.” This is typically an extra £20 per metre.
If trying to estimate the repointing costs for an average three-bed semi-detached home, Joe says, “you might need 40–60 square metres for a three-bed semi, so the total cost is roughly £2,000–£4,500.” This would be for standard materials and labour.
But there may be extra costs, he continues. “These may include scaffolding for higher areas, coloured or specialist lime mortar, and making good any damaged bricks.” To get a more accurate idea of costs, get two or three quotes from local tradesmen.
Repointing brickwork helps prevent water ingress, but you should also consider removing a brick from a wall if it's in poor condition. Check out our guide to cheap bricks to save money. Also make sure you read our guide on brick slips, which are a smart alternative to traditional bricks, and somewhere where your repointing skills will still come in handy.
