Tiling a kitchen splashback is a project you can tackle yourself. Find out how with this easy-to-follow step-by-step DIY guide

Modern kitchen with grey cabinets, white marble-like worktop with white tiled splashback and walls
(Image credit: Getty Images)

Tiling a kitchen splashback yourself can save you some serious cash, and it's not as tricky as you might think. Especially if you're tiling a standard rectangular or square area with a simple tile pattern.

It's one of the easier tiling jobs a DIYer can undertake, and it's a great place to start if you want to learn how to tile a wall. You can improve your adhesive application and tile-cutting skills without risking the quality of the finish. Just remember, don’t rush — take your time and follow the steps in this guide to achieve a finish you’ll be proud of.

Why tile a kitchen splashback?

Tiling a kitchen splashback is a straightforward and effective option for a kitchen renovation. Steven Jenkins, DIY expert, says, “You can choose any style and colour of tile to create a practical and stunning kitchen splashback.” He adds, “It will be easy to wipe clean as well as protect surrounding areas from stains and splashes.”

If you want a straightforward option, mosaics are among the easiest DIY kitchen backsplash tiles to lay yourself, and they don't require cutting with specialist equipment like a wet tile cutter. You can simply cut the mesh backing to the required size.

Headshot of Steve Jenkins
Steven Jenkins

Steve Jenkins is a freelance content creator and a keen DIYer with over 20 years of experience in transforming and renovating the many homes he has lived in. He specialises in painting and decorating, but has a wide range of skills gleaned from working in the building trade for around 10 years.

Tools you’ll need for tiling a kitchen splashback

Try these to help tile a kitchen splashback

Step-by-step guide to tiling a kitchen splashback

1. Prepare the walls

Before laying any tiles, ensure the surface is clean, dry, and level. Jenkins says, “Run the edge of a long spirit level along the wall to see if there are low or high spots.” He adds, “Fill low spots with a suitable wall filler and sand down any high spots.” Sanding will also improve adhesion for the tile adhesive. To keep surfaces clean, lay down protective dust sheets (like these VicMore Clear Plastic Drop Cloths from Amazon) and tape down the edges with masking tape.

If there is a gap between cabinets/worktops where a cooker will go, fix a wooden batten across the gap (level with the worktops) to ensure the tiles remain in place and level.

fixing a batten to tile against

Fixing a wooden batten to the wall is an easy way to ensure tiles remain level (Image credit: Luke Arthur Wells)

2. Plan the layout of your tiles

Before you begin tiling, it's a good idea to take a quick look at how your tiles will sit, and check for any problem areas where you might need to cut small pieces of tile to fill gaps.

Stephen Ruseel, Tiler for Ashley Cross Tiling says, "Always start a full tile from the kitchen work surface and also try to avoid small cuts. Dry lay tiles to work out cuts." He adds, "Always spend extra time working this out because it can save time and effort later.

At this point, you'll be able to identify where tiles will meet elements like plug sockets and switches. You can cut these now, but ideally, when you tile that area.

It's worth checking that your surfaces and any surrounding walls or cabinetry are straight at this point, so you know whether they can be easily used to guide your tiling.

Using a spirit level, mark vertical and horizontal plumb lines at various points along the wall to help you stay on track.

Stephen Russell Tiler at Ashley Cross Tiling
Stephen Russell

Stephen is an independent tiler with over 30 years in the industry. He specialises in kitchen tiling, walls and floors and general tiling repairs.

3. Apply tile adhesive

If you've bought a tile adhesive mix, follow the manufacturer's instructions, or use a ready-made mix. Russell says, "You can use powdered or ready mixed tile adhesive depending on the surface you are tiling." He adds, "But for walls, and convenience, it's easier to use ready-mixed adhesive, unless you are using large format tiles."

If you are tiling onto new plaster, Russell warns, "Always seal plaster as plaster is very porous. If you don't seal the plaster, the adhesive won't be as strong and can lead to adhesion issues."

Apply the tile adhesive in small areas, no bigger than a metre, for the first row of tiles. If you've got cuts to make, do them before applying adhesive to that section.

Apply the adhesive with a notched trowel (one of the best tiling tools for the job). Russell recommends, "Use a medium-sized (6-8mm) notched trowel and also cover the back of the tile for better bonding."

This is critical to ensuring the tiles adhere properly to the wall. Make sure all the notches (lines) are in the same direction, as shown below.

applying adhesive with a notched trowel

Using a ready made mix will save time and ensure you have the correct consistency if you haven't tiled before (Image credit: Luke Arthur Wells)

4. Start to tile

To adhere the tiles, push them into the adhesive. Tile spacers are required in most cases. Use them along each edge, including between the tile and the worktop, to give your splashback some flexibility if the walls shift, and between each tile.

cut tiles for around a plug socket

Use tile spacers to give a consistent gap between each of your tiles (Image credit: Luke Arthur Wells)

5. Measure and cut tiles around plug sockets

When you reach plug sockets or where you'll need to cut tiles for the ends of the splashback (it will be both ends if you're using a brick bond-style tile layout), set up your tile cutter to begin cutting tiles. A manual tile cutter will work for end cuts, but for plugs, where you may need to cut right angles, you'll require a wet tile cutter.

Mark the tiles against the plug, then cut them with a wet tile cutter to fit. Russell offers a quick tip when marking tiles: "Use a felt-tip pen on glazed tiles as this can easily be seen and wiped off once cut."

In some instances, your builder or electrician may have left you with raised socket boxes that you can tile up to, with a lip for the tiles to sit under.

In other cases, such as this one, tile up to the box, ensuring the socket faceplate covers any gaps. You may need to resize your socket's electrical screws to account for the tile thickness in this instance.

marking tiles for cutting plug sockets

Ensure you measure carefully before making your cuts (Image credit: Luke Arthur Wells)

6. Wait for adhesive to dry

Once you've tiled the entire splashback, wipe the front of the tiles clean and allow the tile adhesive to dry, following the manufacturer's instructions. This might be overnight or a few hours. Once dry, you can remove your timber level from behind the range.

7. Apply the grout

Mix the grout as per the manufacturer's instructions, or use a ready-made mix. Using protective gloves, apply grout to the spaces between tiles with a grout float. Press it into the gaps, holding the float at a 45° angle.

Russell offers a tip about grout colour, "While the colour of grout is a personal choice, darker is usually a better choice due to its ability to hide grease stains and food/drink splashes, etc, better than white grout."

Wipe the tiles clean as you go, but be careful not to make the sponge too wet. This can affect the consistency of the grout mix, weakening it. A slightly damp sponge is best. Leave the grout to dry.

Russell adds, "Sealing grout is also a positive and Epoxy grout is the best grout. But, this is best done by professional tilers."

8. Apply sealant and add the socket fronts

After you've finished tiling, it's a good idea to run a small amount of silicone along the base edge, especially if your splashback is behind a sink. This will help prevent water from ingressing between the worktop and the splashback.

Reinstall the socket fronts using the original screws, or longer ones if required.

FAQs

Do you tile before or after fitting a kitchen?

Tiling a kitchen splashback is always done after the kitchen has been fitted. You'll want to make sure you protect your kitchen surfaces and cabinetry while doing this, though both grout and adhesive should be easy to wipe away if spilt on these surfaces and wiped up immediately.

Do I need to seal a kitchen splashback?

Some tiles, such as encaustic tiles, require sealing to prevent stains from oil and water. Using grout and tile sealant (like this Vitrex Grout and Tile Sealer from Toolstation) can also help keep your grout looking better for longer, though it's not strictly required.

How long does it take to tile a splashback?

Tiling a splashback is a relatively quick job if it doesn't require lots of tile cutting. Tile adhesive can dry in as little as a few hours, so work in small areas at a time; otherwise, the adhesive may set before you apply the tiles.

With the prep work done in advance, you can easily tile a kitchen splashback in a few hours. Jenkins says, “Remember to leave the tile adhesive to dry as recommended, typically 24 hours, before grouting.” Add another hour or two for grouting

Can you tile over existing tiles?

It's certainly possible to tile over tiles (though it's advisable to remove the old tiles and tile directly onto the wall). There are benefits, such as speed and ease compared with removing existing tiles, but there are also drawbacks, such as the aesthetic appeal. Tiling over tiles will leave you with a thicker-than-average splashback, plus you won't be able to use a tile trim in the same way you could when tiling directly onto the wall.

Ensure the existing tiles are clean and securely adhered to the wall before tiling over. You should also bear in mind that different walls have different load-bearing capabilities, and two layers of tiles, especially heavier ones, could cause you issues.


A tiled kitchen splashback can be part of your modern kitchen tiling ideas or simply a component of your kitchen ideas. Check out these kitchen wall colour ideas to complement your kitchen splashback.

Luke Arthur Wells is an award-winning interiors blogger and stylist. His blog has been one of Vuelio's top 10 interior blogs for four years running, and he recently won the Best Creative Skill category at the Amara Interior Blog Awards. Luke has worked with some of the UK's biggest brands, from John Lewis and Made to Farrow & Ball and B&Q. He's a big DIYer, and loves coming up with creative woodwork projects for his home, a Victorian terrace renovation in Essex.