If you’re thinking of tiling around a window, then this step-by-step guide will show you how to get it right

Contemporary light bathroom with tall thin tiles on wall and around window with bath and sink in foreground
(Image credit: Getty Images)

Tiling around a window takes planning and precision to get a professional-looking finish.

It might start off easy with straightforward tile patterns and courses running from left to right, but as you approach the window, this is when precision comes into play.

Narrow gaps, awkward angles and open edges are all part and parcel of tiling around a window. And you need to get it right, as you don’t want your beautiful bathroom tiling ideas going astray. Thankfully, the tips and techniques in this guide will help ensure that doesn’t happen.

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Shop these tools for tiling around a window

Stephen Russell Tiler at Ashley Cross Tiling
Stephen Russell

Stephen is an independent tiler with over 30 years in the industry. He specialises in kitchen tiling, walls and floors and general tiling repairs.

Steps for tiling around a window

Before you get started make sure that you have the best tiling tools for the job and all the tiles you need, and of course adhesive to stick them to the wall.

1. Tiling around the window

When tiling a wall with a window, you typically start at the bottom of the wall and work your way up, getting as close as possible to the bottom of the window. Stephen Russell of Ashley Cross Tiling explains, "As soon as you need to cut a whole tile to fit up to the bottom of the window, you need to concentrate on tiling up the sides of the window."

To continue, Russell says, "Follow the pattern of the previously laid tiles and work up both sides of the windows. Again, if a tile is going to go over the edge of the window, leave."

Once finished, you should have a gap below the window and sides, and no tiles directly above the window.

2. Add your tile trim

Before continuing you will need to fit tile trim around the window (if using). Measure up your trim on both sides and mark with pencil where you need to cut. Russell shares, "You will need a hacksaw and a mitre block to get a neat 45 degree angle on the cut." If adding trim along the bottom measure up and cut as before and the same for the top. Check all fit as expected.

To install the trim Russell adds, "Put adhesive on all edges – bottom, top and sides and push the trim into place. Wipe off any excess and leave to dry."

3. Cut around the bottom of the window

Start at the centre of the bottom of the window. Dry-lay a tile and mark on either side of the tile with a felt-tip pen where the cut needs to go.

Russell shares what you need to cut the tiles: "When cutting tiles, use a manual cutter for straight edges. But when you get to the corner, you will need a wet tile cutter or tile nippers to cut the tile."

Hold your tile over the corner and mark the vertical and horizontal cuts with a felt tip. Get a ruler and draw two straight lines so they meet. This gives the area you need to cut. Now, place the wet tile cutter on your tile and cut along one line, then do the other.

Alternatively, use tile nippers to cut the corner area. If new to tile nippers, do a few practice runs on a spare tile.

4. Tile up the sides

With the tiles in place along the bottom of the window, its now time to work on the sides. Start on one wall and concentrate on that side.

Russell says "Start at the bottom, place a tile in position against the wall and mark with a felt tip where you need to cut. Cut the tile, add your adhesive and place it on the wall."

Continue until you get to the top of the window where you need to make a corner cut. Repeat on the other side.

5. Tile across the top

Now comes the trickier part. To keep the tiles above the window from slipping, you will need to support them. Create a T shape with timber batons, with the top of the T fitting tightly across the top of the window. Now use the other timber to support.

Now measure the tiles for the top-left corner of the window, cut them, and put them in place. Work across to the other corner. With the tiles in place, continue working across course by course. When dry, you can look at tiling the insides of the window.

6. Tile the recess

In some cases, you will tile the recess between the wall and the window, typically in bathrooms and kitchens. The tiles in the recess will need to match up with the wall tiles. This means that the grout lines effectively continue from the wall into the recess.

Russell says, "Start at the bottom, measure each tile individually and cut. Spread the adhesive, then place the tiles in place with spacers. Now, continue each side of the recess – again measure each tile individually and cut."

Now tile the top recess. To stop the tiles from dropping, use the wood and batons from before to hold them in place. Leave for 24 hours or overnight.

Finally, with your tiles neatly in place, you just need to know how to grout tiles for the ultimate pro finish.

FAQs

Do you put trim on before tiling around a window? 

There are a couple of options. You can tile around the window, but leave enough space to apply the trim. Typically, this happens when a whole tile extends past the window edge and needs to be cut.

Before you cut the tiles, apply the trim so you get neat, accurate edges. However, this isn’t as quick as applying the trim before you start tiling. This method means you can do it the day before and leave it to dry.

Or, make this the first job before adding any tiles. This gives the adhesive time to dry and secure the trim, while you start applying the tiles.

Harriet Goodacre
Harriet Goodacre

Harriet is a tile and interiors expert at Topps Tiles, with over a decade at the brand and more than 15 years’ experience working with home and lifestyle brands. She specialises in all things tiles and tile design, including layouts, colour pairings and interiors trends, offering practical and stylish guidance for real homes.

What size tile trim do I need? 

To achieve a more aesthetically pleasing finish around a window, add tile trim. The size depends on a few factors, as Harriet Goodacre, Interiors and tiling expert from Topp Tiles, explains, “The trim size is determined by the thickness of your tile, not the size of the window. You’ll want a trim that matches the depth of the tile once adhesive is applied, so it sits neatly and level with the window and tiled surface.”

She adds, “As a general guide, if your tile is 10mm thick, a 12.5mm trim will usually give you a smoother fit, but be sure to check the tile thickness and allow for adhesive before choosing your trim.”

Can you tile a wooden window sill? 

Yes, you can tile a window sill – here’s some great window sill ideas – but you will need to do some quick prep beforehand. If the window sill has a round edge, which a lot do, you want to square it off with a jigsaw like this Ryobi R18JS-0 18V ONE+ Jigsaw from Amazon to make tiling easier.

Goodacre shares, “Wood moves naturally over time, so the surface needs to be stable and well secured first.” If painted, remove loose paint and sand down with a fine or medium sandpaper grade.”

Alternatively, Goodacre suggests, “In many cases, it’s best to overboard with a suitable tile backer board to create a more solid base before tiling.”

As wood naturally moves, it is wise to use the right adhesive, shares Goodacre, “In terms of adhesive, use a flexible tile adhesive when working over wood or timber-based surfaces, as it allows for a small amount of movement.”

To finish, she adds, “Once tiled and grouted, finish with a neat bead of silicone around the frame to help create a watertight seal.”


A simple tiling pattern like brick bond is a popular choice for bathrooms and kitchens, and works well as part of bathroom tile ideas for small bathrooms. If looking to try something different in your kitchen, check out our guide on kitchen wall tile ideas.

Steve Jenkins is a freelance content creator with over two decades of experience working in digital and print and was previously the DIY content editor for Homebuilding & Renovating. 

He is a keen DIYer with over 20 years of experience in transforming and renovating the many homes he has lived in. He specialises in painting and decorating, but has a wide range of skills gleaned from working in the building trade for around 10 years and spending time at night school learning how to plaster and plumb.

He has fitted kitchens, tiled bathrooms and kitchens, laid many floors, built partition walls, plastered walls, plumbed in bathrooms, worked on loft conversions and much more. And when he's not sure how to tackle a DIY project he has a wide network of friends – including plumbers, gas engineers, tilers, carpenters, painters and decorators, electricians and builders – in the trade to call upon.