Without a doubt one of the biggest purchases in a homebuilding project, deciding on window styles can make or break your house design.
Our facades are often more window than wall these days, so it is highly important to take into account the thermal performance and energy efficiency, not just how much natural light it will bring to the table.
So whatever your project, the style of window you choose makes a huge impact on the overall appearance of the building and can influence how you interact with different rooms — research is key.
How Do I Choose Windows:
- Design: Will your windows be classic and traditional, or sleek and contemporary?
- Style: Find out about the different types of casements and the what the styles bring to the table.
- Material: Our material guide that compares cost, durability and style.
- Glazing: Thermal performance and energy efficiency are now high of the priority list for many selfbuilders and renovators.
- Costs: Take a look at our advice on comparing between quotes.
- Ordering: Think about how to order and how the lead-in times will affect your project.
The positioning of windows will be informed and influences by room layouts and the shape of the house itself but the shape and type of the windows themselves should be taken into serious consideration when deciding on the exterior and interior finishes.
For instance, a contemporary, single-storey house is improved by similarly narrow, vertical windows (as below) but old cottages look odd with large glazed openings forced into thick stone walls.
The golden ratio – as developed in classical architecture – is still used today as a general rule of thumb. The ratio proportions are 1:1:618 meaning a vertical sash window at 800mm wide should be 1,300mm tall.
Window Styles for Traditional Homes
If you’re building in period style or renovating an older home, choosing appropriate materials and styles is a must — in most cases this will mean timber casements or sashes. Modern window companies can replicate older styles where possible but unfortunately you cannot effectively replicate wood grain with PVCu, although there are a few manufacturers might try.
Small casement windows are associated with cottages and there are some stunning offerings out there, but a trickier style to replicate with double glazing is a Georgian and early Victorian era multi-pan sliding sash as achieving glazing bars which are as elegant with modern methods is tough.
Window Styles for Contemporary Homes
As glazing became progressively cheaper and easier to work with over the centuries, the size of our windows grew. By the time of the advent of modernism in the early 20th century, simplicity became the watchword: minimising not just the amount of framing but also the frame width itself.
You could consider the more modern the house or build-style, the bigger and cleaner the glazing should be. Timber will soften a rendered exterior of a modern home, while aluminium windows are perfect for minimalist styles.
A traditional British option (historically and in the 20th century), open-out casements are available in a variety of formats. Choose split casements for cottage-style designs and small glazed units to mimic ‘Georgian style’.
- Large casements tend to be the cheapest
- Costs tend to be lower because they are made in modular, standard sizes
- Great for ventilating rooms but as they can open wide, this might cause concern for those with small children or animals
Types of Casement-style Windows
1. Side Hung: The most recognisable casement. It is hinged at the side for easy opening
2. Top Light: A fixed pane divided from a narrow glazed top-hinged casement
3. Sliding Folding: The sash is hinged so that it folds, increasing the area of openable window to an almost clear expanse
4. Top Hung/ Awning: A casement window that is hinged at the top. Perfect for wet climates as it blocks out rain
5. Bottom Hung/ Hopper: A casement window that is hinged at the bottom. most commonly used in basement
6. Centre Hinge/ Pivot: A window that is hinged in the centre to allow for a wider opening, it requires less of a swinging clearance
JELD-WEN‘s double glazed timber windows in casement style are particularly suitable for homeowners looking to renovate in a conservation area
Tilt and Turn
Continental-style tilt and turn windows open inwards, and look best on modern designs. The ‘tilt’ option provides ventilation with security.
- They are typically made to order, increasing the cost
- Great for smaller rooms where saving space is a priority
Sash windows are essential when renovating or replicating Georgian and Victorian housing, still widely used on traditional-style new builds. Sizes are typically not standard but windows need to be in proportion to the house, so are often bespoke.
Sponsored by Ventrolla
When it comes to renovating older homes with original features, such as sash windows, it is worth contacting a specialist to see if the windows can be repaired or whether replacement is required. If the windows do need replacing then it is a great opportunity to solve some of the negative effects of older windows, such as draughts and rattles.
If you are looking for a sash window replacement, you will need to choose an option that not only maintains the look and charm of the original window, but that also offers increased energy efficiency and noise control as well as being fully draught proof.
Contact Ventrolla for expert advice on sash window repair or renovation.
Fixed windows are just that, fixed, so they don’t open our or let in help ventilation. However, they do maximise opportunities for natural light throughout a home. As they don’t need to be made to incorporate a opening mechanism, there are endless designs and styles to play around with.
- Provides light in wasted spaces
- Can create interesting designs
Introducing windows into the roof, also known as skylights, can work wonders in renovations, extensions and conversions to bring in natural light where conventional windows can’t be installed.
PVCu windows long reigned supreme as the dominant material for replacement windows and for good reason. A quick and easy option, plastic windows are low-maintenance and cheap.
- Cheapest overall although costs var with quality
- Can look cheap
- Can reduce the value of period homes
- Not easy to repair
- Doors can be weak
- £5,000-£15,000 for a one-off house
Timber’s main selling point is the feel and authenticity it offers to period-style homes: there is no real replacement for the warmth of traditional timber windows.
- Nothing can beat the tactility and detailing of a timber framed window
- Softwood is popular among those on a limited budget as they are the cheapest option if glazed and decorated on site
- Can be stained, but are usually painted
- Suites both contemporary and traditional style homes
- On-site glazing carries a risk of double-glazing failure (i.e. misted units)
- Factory glazing lowers the risk but costs more
- Softwood requires repainting every few years
Best Softwoods to Choose
Douglas fir is a very stable, durable softwood while European Redwood (also known as Scots Pine) is less prone to dimensional change and movement.
- Have a tighter grain than softwoods, making them more stable and durable
- Can be treated to be further stabilised
- Most popular on traditional-style homes
- Usually stained
Hardwood Cons: It’s expensive — anything up to four times the cost of softwood
- Softwood: £6,000-£15,000, less if ‘DIYed’ on site
- Hardwood: Between £8,000 and £20,000
If you’re struggling with the choice of materials, there is a compromise — the so-called composite systems that mix different framing materials inside and out.
- Best of both worlds as they usually consist of timber windows with a weather-proof capping, such as aluminium strips or plastic
- Can withstand harsh climates (widely used in such as Canada and Sweden)
- Great for triple-glazing
- Complement modern designs
- Low maintenance but offer the warmth of timber
- Unlikely to be made to standard UK sizes if ordered from the Continent
- Between £10,000 and £25,000 — expect to pay 25% more for triple glazing
(MORE: Aluminium Windows: How to Choose)
- Popular among contemporary-style homes but increasingly popular in period properties (particularly for Belgian doors)
- GRP (fibreglass) can create a strong load-bearing frame
- GRB can be supplied in any colour
- Low maintenance
- Produce finer frames
- Not as thermally efficient as wood
- Can be expensive
- Between £8,000 and £20,000
On-site double glazing is the cheapest option for DIY self-builders, usually done with softwood frames which are then painted on site. Slow and time consuming, most suppliers are moving away from on-site glazing for new installations.
New methods in factory double glazing mean that many windows can be clipped into templates from inside, thus streamlining the installation. However, it is more expensive than on-site glazing.
Low-emissivity or ‘low-E’ glass (as it is more commonly known) is a type of glazing designed specifically to prevent heat escaping through windows. Low-E double glazing meets Building Regulations in the UK (such as Part L1B in England) for replacement windows and new windows for extensions.
- Can reduce heat loss by at least as four or five times compared with single glazing
- Solar control glass can be specified to educe excessive solar gain in the summer for areas of the home susceptible to overheating
Once only popular in low-energy homes, triple glazing is rapidly becoming a standard solution for today’s window suppliers.
- Excellent comfort levels as it evens our temperature profiles of rooms
- Great for noise reduction for homes near busy roads etc.
- Helps minimise overheating
- Some suppliers offer special coatings that will allow solar gain when required (i.e. in winter)
However, the issue is really around where to put it, with most experts agreeing that it’s near-essential on north-facing elevations with lots of glazing and to be generally avoided on south-facing elevations.
It’s useful to rank window costs on a square metre basis. Suppliers tend to dislike this because you don’t buy windows by the square metre: they are priced individually and generally the larger the actual window, the less it costs per square metre, so reducing a window range down to a square metre price is never going to produce an accurate pricing method. But from a comparison point of view, it’s a very useful tool.
Take the total amount quoted to supply windows and divide by the area of the window openings to derive the square metre rates.
This very much depends on whether you’re opting for off-the-shelf windows or bespoke products, and can also differ from company to company.
A general lead time would be around 12 weeks, however, it goes without saying that bespoke windows will inevitably carry longer lead times. It is best to not order too early on in the project in case amendments to the building design or aperture sizes occur.