It’s a common misconception that all self builds are these huge, incredibly high-spec properties. It is completely possible to build a house on a relatively small budget by taking these 10 tips into consideration.
- Long-Term Savings
- Choose Basic, Add Luxury
- Design Fees
- Avoid False Economies
- Shop Well
The greater the floor area, the greater the cost. Whether you’re going to spend £600/m² or £2,000/m², if you want to build a house for under £150,000, you’re going to have to build a relatively small one.
Of course, the ‘small’ of the self-building world isn’t quite the ‘small’ of the regular house: a typical four bedroom developer home might be no more than 100m². Most self-build homes come in at double that, so even a relatively small self-built home will be 150m² and feel relatively spacious.
This three-bedroom cottage-style eco home in Cornwall
is 100m² in size and was built for a very reasonable £115,000
Many builders will give their initial prices for labour on a cost/m² basis and, of course, the bigger house requires more bricks, blocks, flooring, roof tiles etc.
By keeping your floor area to the more modest end of expectations – 150m² will get you a pretty comfortable four bedroom home – you’ve got every chance of coming in at under £150,000.
The more complicated the design, the more cost you’re likely to incur not just in materials but in labour too.
Builders spend much more time dealing with valleys, edges, corners than they do if they’re building straight. It’s the number one reason why commercial developers tend to prefer Georgian-style designs: they are symmetrical and usually based on a simple box shape.
The good news is that, done well, a simple design can look incredibly elegant.
Gordon Aitken’s self-built house in Fife is one of the more remarkable budget stories of recent times. His impressively styled contemporary four bedroom one-and-a-half storey house cost just £59,858 (an astonishing £393/m²) to build.
Solar panels (for heating) are now achievable for between £2-3,000, while it’s possible to buy heat pumps – both ground and air source – for less than £5,000. These are obviously additional capital costs but you can offset part of the cost against alternative mainstream heating sources.
The same applies to smart home technology. Whereas once this was an area that would have been well beyond consideration for budget self-builders, it’s now possible to achieve a fully connected multi-room system controlling audio and visual for in the region of £2-3,000.
Again, this incurs extra capital cost, but it is no longer the budget-breaker it once was.
The more you can contribute to the project in terms of time and effort, the more money you’ll save on build costs. That means not just DIY, but also involvement in other aspects of the project such as managing the site, buying materials, basic landscaping and decorating.
The rule is simple — if someone else does it for you,
you’re generally going to have to pay a premium.
Now, when it comes to skilled aspects of a project, such as design, electrics, and roofing, it is a false economy to try and take on jobs that are done better (and quicker) by a professional.
You’ll spend around 15% of your build costs on the external wall and, metre for metre, blockwork is considered to be the cheapest.
It’s definitely possible to create a kitchen that looks high-end but without the hefty price tag. Ikea’s Laxarby Kitchen doors and drawer fronts with Metod cabinets.
Laxarby doors cost from £56
The good news for the more money-conscious amongst us is that it is perfectly possible to achieve a great look in a kitchen – and one that really belies a tight budget – through one of three routes.
- Go to a smaller local firm for low-cost, high-quality units. Suppliers such as Pineland Furniture will be able to supply units with no chipboard or ply for less than £5,000 — cheaper if you paint them yourself
- Pick out the better ranges at high street names. The mainstream kitchen suppliers offer impressive ranges. Make the most of (almost-constant) sales or be prepared to negotiate
- Mix basic and luxury fittings. You can pick out standard carcasses from trade outfits and mix them with doors from high-end suppliers; you could mix standard units from Wickes with top-quality handles and worktops
Go to a recognised architect and you’ll expect to pay 10% of your build costs in design fees — that’s a staggering £15,000 on a project that probably doesn’t warrant this type of expenditure.
Architects really add value to projects where design is the number one priority, not budget — they produce original design ideas and can, it has to be said, be responsible for some of the best-looking one-off homes you’ll see.
A four bedroom oak frame in a Conservation Area in one of the most affluent parts of Oxfordshire might not be the obvious place for a build budget of just £134,000 (£770/m²), but that’s exactly what Terry Morgan has achieved.
Those looking to spend less than £150,000 shouldn’t forgo the design process but they should take a different approach. Start the process off with a pretty good idea of the kind of house you’d like to build.
Work out a broad idea of the internal layout you’d like – visit show homes to get an idea of how room sizes on plans measure up in reality – and perhaps use one of the basic CAD software packages (around £40) to draw up some simple ideas.
Take those formulated ideas to someone with design skills but without the ‘Architect’ title — perhaps an architectural technologist or skilled local house designer (speak to local builders to get a few recommendations), who can then draw up workable planning and Building Regulations drawings for you.
This process will potentially save you £1,000s at the start of your project.
Budget Design Ideas
The simple fact is that if you’re building in a stone belt (where planning laws will pretty much dictate that you’ll be cladding your house in local stone), you’ll be spending much more money on cladding than might otherwise be the case.
Those budget self builders lucky enough to have more of a choice in the matter will in all likelihood find either a blockwork/render or brick outer skin the most economical of all.
Timber framers looking to spend less on their cladding will find weatherboarding the most efficient and economical way of constructing that outer shell.
Of course, there are many choices when it comes to render solutions, but you should expect to pay £75/m² facing (it can go up to £125/m² with one of the anti-crack, self-coloured systems).
Jason and Sarah Orme built their traditional-style home on a modest budget of £145,000
Those using brick should avoid the very basic wirecut facings but should be able to find attractive bricks at £300/m². You could also inject a bit of instant character by mixing together two or three stock bricks, which doesn’t cost any more than a uniform selection.
Those in a stone belt might be able to save money by specifying reconstituted stone but if planners insist on real local stone, try specifying it as a half-cut facing (similar to a brick slip) to save money on materials. Unfortunately, a lot of the cost of stone is in the laying, which you won’t be able to avoid.
When you build a house, it is all about design options, and if you make the right choices, they can have significant cost-saving implications. Very few ordinary developer houses have regular chimney stacks — as many houses so rarely have traditional open fires these days, a traditional chimney is not essential.
Replacing a chimney with an exhaust vent terminating at a subtle roof grille will save between £2-5,000. If you’re really keen to save every penny, you’ll also be interested to learn that most developers put in conventional ‘fink’ roof trusses rather than attic trusses (which allow the attic space to be used as a room) — it can save between £1-3,000.
It’s a relatively easy saving to ask for from your designer; however, don’t ignore the implication that you’ll be missing out on future space potential — it’s a difficult decision to reverse and is widely perceived to be a false economy.
Caron Pain’s cost-planning skills were so good that she came in £20,000 under her original £130,000 budget when building her five bedroom home in Norfolk, meaning it cost just £110,000.
Another significant saving that can be enjoyed with less implications down the line is to specify an attached rather than detached garage. Not only is there a saving on basic structural material costs, but it’s much easier for electricians to lay on services to an attached garage rather than one 5m from the rest of the house. You should be able to save £2-5,000 this way.
Another potential saving is in the heating system — owing to the huge variety of options now available. A top-of-the-range heating system, complete with underfloor heating, designer towel rails, controls and a high-quality boiler, could easily cost £5-7,000 (unfitted).
A basic setup, however, with a standard condensing boiler and cheap radiators, will cost in the region of £1,500-2,000 (unfitted).
Being clever with your materials shopping – and playing suppliers off against each other – can save £1,000s on the bigger purchases.
Use the internet to research prices and don’t be afraid to negotiate. Of course, this all means that it’s much better to buy your own materials — it’s both unlikely that a builder will negotiate as hard on your behalf and also that they will pass on the full benefits of cost reductions.
Don’t forget, too, that you’re in the market for labour as well as materials. It pays to contact a range of local tradesmen in order to do this – “X down the road says he’ll do it for £100 a day…” – but bear in mind that if you end up paying ridiculously under a reasonable rate, the tradesman will simply move onto a better paying job if, and when, it comes up.