Fed up with the constant whirr of your washing machine? Here's how to soundproof a utility room for a quieter life
When you’ve spent years daydreaming about utility room ideas, it can be a rude awakening to face the noisy reality of this functional space, when you get one.
Utility rooms are often noisy because they tend to house the loudest appliances in the home, especially washing machines and tumble-dryers. Combine the normal operating noise of these appliances with a room that might be small, and last in line for renovations such as cavity wall insulation, and you have a recipe for a racket.
The good news is that there are plenty of things you can do to reduce utility room noise, ranging from quick improvements to belt-and-braces acoustic treatments. We interviewed a soundproofing specialist, a property developer and an appliances expert to understand exactly how to soundproof a utility room.
1. Identify the source of noise
“This is the room where a lot of people have got their washing machine or tumble-dryer, and these are the main sources of noise,” says Andy Youngson, director of Yorkshire Soundproofing.
To some extent, the level of noise will depend on the model and condition of each laundry appliance. However, one utility room might allow far more noise into the rest of the building than another – even if the appliances used are the same. This is due to several factors, including the structure of the floor and walls.
“The floor is your first port of call for soundproofing work, after which you should look at the walls and any boxing for your ducting and pipes,” says Andy.
“Any hollow cavities within the room will transfer vibrations, amplify them and pass them through walls and the ceiling. And then there’s the airborne sound from tumble-dryers and washers, which can go through the ceiling, especially if the ceiling has only a single layer of lightweight insulation. But, there’s a wide range of things you can do to limit these sources of noise,” he confirms.
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An expert on soundproofing in both domestic and commercial settings, Andy Youngson worked in the materials specifications industry for eight years prior to starting his soundproofing installation business. As Director of Yorkshire Soundproofing, Youngson provides consultations and installations to clients throughout the UK and Ireland.
2. Soundproof the floor
Vibrations travel from kitchen appliances, such as washing machines, directly into the floor, making this surface the key focus when soundproofing a utility room.
“A suspended timber floor in particular tends to vibrate the whole structure, and as with any empty cavity, it can cause cavity resonance,” says Andy Youngson. “It’s like the hollow box on an acoustic guitar, causing the sound to bounce and echo more than it would through a solid floor (or through the solid body of an electric guitar).”
The most thorough solution that’s commonly used to sound-insulate suspended timber floors is to add mineral wool insulation under the floorboards. You might even go as far as to replace the floorboards with a more sound-insulative surface material, such as engineered wooden flooring or cork.
If these measures are too disruptive or beyond your current budget, then a cheaper (possibly temporary) fix could be to use acoustic matting.
“You can cover the full floor, or just put rubber matting under the appliances so that the vibrations don’t get into the joists and the wall,” confirms Andy.
3. Reduce noise from appliances
A good place to start is with your choice of laundry appliances, as some models are far noisier than others.
“If you're looking for a quieter laundry appliance, you should start with looking at the noise rating before you buy,” says Gwil Snook, laundry expert at AO.
“The lower the decibel (dB) rating, the quieter the appliance is likely to be, especially during the spin cycle. Features such as inverter motors can also help reduce vibration and keep noise to a minimum, as they’re designed to run more efficiently with fewer moving parts.
Gwil also suggests looking for appliances with Quiet Mark certification. “This is independently assessed and benchmarked against comparable products, and it indicates that the appliance will operate more quietly than standard alternatives,” he says.
Whichever appliances you choose, how you set them up in your utility room layout will also affect the operating noise.
“Leaving a clear space around the machine to prevent it from touching surrounding cabinets and walls is helpful for reducing noise,” says Michelle Feng, product marketing manager at Hisense.
“Also make sure that the appliance is level, by adjusting the feet so that it sits stable on the floor. This will reduce the rattling and noise when a cycle is on,” she adds.
You can use a spirit level, such as this Firecore Small Spirit Level from Amazon to double-check that you’ve used your appliance’s adjustable feet to the best effect.
Washing machines and tumble-dryers are pretty much guaranteed to become louder as they accumulate wear and tear, but it’s often possible to limit the increase in noise.
“If the appliance makes unusually loud or abnormal noises, we advise contacting the relevant customer service so it can be inspected by an engineer,” says Michelle.
“Regular washing machine maintenance such as cleaning the drum and filter is important, and I also recommend checking to ensure your laundry loads are balanced (with a mixture of lighter and heavier items spread throughout the drum), and ensuring the appliance remains level," she continues.
“All of these measures can help to minimise noise, as well as extending the washing machine’s lifespan."

Gwil Snook is a laundry expert at the appliances, electricals and smartphone retailer, AO, with over eight years of experience working with washing machines, washer-dryers and – his favourite – heat pump tumble dryers.

As Product Marketing Manager at Hisense, Michelle Feng is responsible for informing the brand's customers about a wide range of home appliances. Hisense is one of the world's leading manufacturers of laundry appliances, kitchen appliances and TVs.
4. Soundproof the walls and ceiling
So what about walls and ceilings? How can you include soundproofing measures at the earlier stages of construction?
“There are solutions such as isolation clips and channels,” explains Andy Youngson. “You can use something like a mute clip to decouple your plasterboard layers from the original structure, allowing the walls to vibrate independently of the supporting structure. As all sound is a form of vibration, decoupling these structural layers can prevent that vibration from travelling through," he adds.
But, rather than leaving an empty gap between the plasterboard and the supporting structure, Andy recommends filling that space with a sound-insulative material.
“Treat empty cavities with mineral wool,” he recommends. “We use Rockwool RW3 at 60kg per cubic metre. It’s one of the better mineral wools for absorbing bass frequencies.”
Some homeowners go even further to soundproof their utility room walls and ceiling.
“The go-to upgrade is Tecsound," continues Andy, "a vibration dampening membrane that can go between two layers in a wall, or alternatively you can add a second layer of acoustic plasterboard,” he suggests.
“Whichever methods you choose, make sure everything is airtight sealed with acoustic sealant, and focus on making sure there are no empty cavities in the structure,” notes Andy.
5. Install a soundproof door
According to Andy Youngson, installing a soundproof internal door is mostly relevant to households who want to be very thorough in their soundproofing.
“Whether you pay attention to the door really depends on how far you want to go with soundproofing your utility room, but it does make sense in some cases, particularly in high-end properties where this room houses something like a ground source heat pump or swimming pool motors,” he says.
“A 44mm fire door with fire seals will seal the door effectively, or you can put in a drop seal on the door. Drop seals are inexpensive but they can be a pain to fit, because they require the door to be at a particular height,” notes Andy.
Find door drop seals at Screwfix and other DIY retailers.
5. Detail, seal and box in where possible
There’s even more you can do to minimise the noise from your utility room.
“Even if you have a good soundproofing system installed, its effectiveness can be significantly reduced if gaps and service penetrations are not properly detailed,” says Brenden Potton, managing director of Potton Developments and Designs.
“Form a 25 to 50mm service void behind the plasterboard where possible, as this allows electrical wiring, sockets and pipework to be installed without penetrating the main acoustic lining,” he advises.
“Also take care to seal all gaps around pipes, cables, sockets and ventilation ducts using an acoustic sealant to maintain the integrity of the soundproofing system.”
Even the plumbing in your utility room can transmit noise – so this can also be a focus of your soundproofing project.
“Box in exposed pipework using insulated boxing where pipes are likely to transmit noise, and where practical, use flexible pipe connectors to reduce vibration transmission through the plumbing,” says Brenden.
“Where utility room ventilation is required, fit acoustic vents or duct attenuators to minimise noise escaping through ventilation openings.”

Brenden Potton founded Potton Developments and Designs in 2007, having entered the building trade as a bricklayer. The company is renowned for its bespoke property developments, barn conversions and home extensions across North Yorkshire and East Yorkshire.
How much does it cost to soundproof a utility room?
“The cost of soundproofing a typical utility room (sized at approximately 4-8 m²) will depend on the level of treatment required and whether the work is carried out as a DIY project or by a contractor,” says Brenden Potton.
According to Potton, these are the rough price ranges you’re likely to be looking at:
- Basic improvements – such as upgrading the door, fitting acoustic seals and installing anti-vibration pads beneath appliances, are likely to cost in the region of £100 to £400 and can provide a noticeable reduction in appliance noise
- Comprehensive soundproofing system – including acoustic treatment to the walls, ceiling and door, is likely to cost between £2,000 and £5,000 if professionally installed.
When correctly specified and installed, this comprehensive level of treatment can achieve a significant reduction in airborne noise, although the overall performance will depend on the existing construction and the source of the noise.
You might also be able to bring down your project cost by prioritising a limited number of soundproofing measures that provide a significant improvement.
“For the greatest benefit, priority should be given to replacing a hollow-core door with a well-sealed solid-core door, and installing anti-vibration pads or isolation feet beneath vibrating appliances,” says Brenden.
“Other key measures include upgrading walls adjoining habitable rooms with appropriate acoustic insulation and linings, providing acoustic treatment to the ceiling where noise transmission to rooms above is a concern, and sealing all joints, gaps and service penetrations, as even small openings can significantly reduce the effectiveness of the soundproofing system," he explains.
Three options to make your utility room quieter:
FAQs
What makes some washing machines quieter than others?
Washing machines can range from about 40dB to 80dB in terms of operating noise, with quieter models peaking around 75dB or lower.
“Manufacturers are using advanced motor technology and intelligent software to reduce noise and vibration, and some also use enhanced sound-insulation panels or strips to absorb operating noise, along with higher-quality shock absorbers that provide better vibration reduction during high-speed cycles,” says Michelle Feng.
“In addition, some machines have sensors which allow them to improve their balance by adjusting the drum movement and spin speed, helping minimise vibration at peak spins.”
Can soundproofing a utility room be a DIY job?
“Yes, many soundproofing measures can be completed by a competent DIYer, provided the manufacturer’s installation guidance is followed and attention is paid to sealing all gaps and maintaining the integrity of the acoustic system,” says Brenden Potton.
“DIY works may include installing acoustic mineral wool within wall and ceiling cavities, fixing resilient bars to walls or ceilings, and installing acoustic plasterboard.
“Many confident DIYers will also be capable of applying acoustic sealant to board joints, perimeters and service penetrations, fitting acoustic door seals and drop seals, and installing anti-vibration pads or isolation feet beneath appliances,” he adds.
However, there are some soundproofing jobs that are best left to the professionals.
“More complex works that would generally be best carried out by an experienced contractor include constructing new independent stud walls or rebuilding existing partitions, and installing suspended acoustic ceiling systems,” says Potton.
“I would also recommend hiring a professional to alter plumbing, electrical or ventilation services, or to make structural alterations to floors or walls.”
There’s nothing quite like the enjoyment of a tranquil home. Once you’ve dealt with the noise from your utility room, why not turn down the volume elsewhere with our advice on how to soundproof a garden and how to soundproof a bedroom.
Pete Wise is a freelance writer and keen DIYer from Leeds. Pete's tool reviews have featured in titles including Homebuilding & Renovating, Ideal Home and The Independent. He also writes features and news articles for publications such as The Guardian, BBC Good Food and T3. When he isn't busy writing, Pete can often be found at libraries, pubs and live music venues. He finds tile-cutting strangely zen.
