Vinyl planks are a popular choice for DIYers. They are comparatively inexpensive, offer plenty of design options, and are easier to install than other types of flooring. If you want a new floor, and to do it yourself, it's a fairly straightforward process.
However, you’ll still need the right tools and techniques to ensure a successful installation. Get it wrong and you could be left with a floor that looks worse than when you started.
I know exactly what's involved as it's a job I recently tackled myself, so I'm sharing the tools you’ll need, the time it will take (so you can plan ahead) and some smart tips and tricks to make the process easier.
Why I’m pulling up my old vinyl planks
Vinyl planks don’t last forever, so I decided it was time to get rid of the old, usher in the new, and give my kitchen floor a new look. There were a few reasons for saying goodbye, but the most obvious was that the top layer had worn away. The once-pristine wood-effect layer no longer existed in places and was showing through as white instead. It was not a good look.
But I have to say these were bought on sale, so it seems the old adage you get what you pay for rings true here. That said, I have had seven years out of them which isn’t bad. Although I would note that the quality wood-effect vinyl planks I bought around the same time for my hallway flooring are still going strong, and see more traffic.
Besides the lack of a top layer, a few of the planks had also cracked and pulled apart, and the glue was attracting dirt and food, and becoming difficult to clean. The last reason for changing them was the pattern. When I originally installed them I was trying to replicate the look of floorboards, but it didn’t work as well as I'd hoped.
The tools you’ll need to pull up vinyl planks
To get the job done effectively and efficiently, you will need the right tools to lift the planks, clean the subfloor, and prep it for the new vinyl planks.
- Scraper - like this Amazon Basics Soft Grip, Heavy-Duty, Bent Scraper
- Long-handled scraper
- Heat gun
- Floor cleaner
- Metal scourer – like these Marigold Scrub Away Stainless Steel Scourers from Amazon
- Sander
- Knee pads (optional) – try these Thunderbolt Knee Pads from Amazon
Shop for tools to help remove and replace vinyl planks
A dual-temperature heat gun with variable temperature control up to 600 degrees. Includes five different heat gun nozzles to control airflow and focus the heat where you want
A multi-talented corded multi-sander that features three interchangeable bases, to work as a sheet sander, orbital sander, and detail sander. Includes 6 x sanding papers
This long-handled scraper features a strong 30 cm steel shaft and a sharp 10 cm steel blade. A soft-grip handle completes the picture, helping ensure safe and secure scraping
How to pull up the existing vinyl planks
Pulling up vinyl planks is relatively simple, but it can be hard work. If you’re lucky, the tiles may already be lifting, making them easy to remove with a basic paint scraper. My glued-down vinyl planks unfortunately weren’t easy to remove.
To start the removal process, I found an edge in a corner and eased up the first tile with a narrow scraper like this Dekton 2" Professional Scraper from Amazon. Once I had prised up enough of the first plank, I unleashed my secret weapons, a heat gun and a long-handled scraper.
Using the heat gun to warm the vinyl and the long-handled scraper to lift the planks makes the removal process much easier and quicker. Methodically heat the vinyl plank, use the small scraper to start and then the long-handled scraper to get under the plank. Keep the scraper at a shallow angle to avoid cutting into the floor (if wood).
As I’ve got a small kitchen floor – around 5m2 – I was done in just over an hour. But don't forget to factor in moving furniture, washing machines, cookers, etc as this will add more time.
Preparing the floor for the new planks
Lifting vinyl planks (mine were the peel-and-stick variety) will leave glue residue on the floor. This will still be tacky for a while, so you will stick to the floor while working. One tip is to fold a lifted plank or join two together - glue side to glue side – and place these where you are working to create a non-sticky surface.
To remove the glue residue, heat it up and scrape it off. You could keep a lifted plank nearby to wipe the glue residue from the scraper onto. The glue will stick to the scraper, so I occasionally warmed up the residue and wiped it off with a cloth to keep it clean.
Scraping rarely removes all the residue. But with a bit of elbow grease, a metal scourer, and a bucket of hot water with floor cleaner (I used this Method Floor Cleaner from Amazon), I managed to remove most of the residue. To finish – my subfloor is wood – I used a sander with 60-80-grit sandpaper. This helped remove any debris, levelled the floor, and improved adhesion for the new planks.
Choose a pattern
There are a few options when it comes to vinyl flooring laying patterns, so I decided to ask a few experts to see what they recommended.
Christof Schirlbauer, managing director of Waxed Floors, suggested a popular option. “A standard straight lay, also called a linear or brick bond pattern, where each row is offset by around a third to a half of a plank length, is the most straightforward to install and works well in most rooms.” I decided to go with a linear pattern, but wasn’t sure which way to lay it.
“As a general rule, lay planks parallel to the longest wall in the room or in the direction of the main natural light source," advised Christof. “Running planks towards the main window draws the eye down the length of the room and makes the space feel longer and more open.”
I decided to follow this advice, especially after Christof revealed what can go wrong. “Avoid running planks perpendicular to the light source where possible," he advises, "as this tends to highlight any unevenness in the subfloor."
The final decision I wasn’t sure about, was whether I should blend my new flooring layout, type and pattern with the next room. Yarl Christie, founder and managing director of Stories Flooring, shared his advice.
“Maintaining the same direction and pattern through adjoining rooms creates a more seamless and spacious appearance. However, it is not always necessary," he adds. "Changes in room shape, transitions between different flooring types, or practical installation considerations may justify changing direction between spaces. The decision should ultimately balance aesthetics with the layout of the property.”
My final decision? To match with the adjoining room as I had no issues with how this looked.
Christof Schirlbauer is the MD of Waxed Floors, a London-based real wood and specialist flooring company with over 20 years of experience serving homeowners, architects and interior designers across the UK.
Yarl Christie began his career as a floor fitter at 18. It’s here that he gained hands-on experience that shaped his understanding of quality, design and customer needs. In 2018, he launched his own business.
Laying new vinyl planks
The first thing I needed to decide was where to start. There are several options for this. Personally, I like to dry-lay the vinyl planks in the direction I've decided on. I move all the whole planks until there is an even gap on each side (on the long side). For extra accuracy, I then measure the gap to make sure it is uniform.
I adopted this approach with my new planks, and once this was done, I made sure the entire plank nearest the wall was aligned with the wall and marked the long edge with a pencil.
This gave me a starting point, from where I laid a full tile, and then continued to lay all the full-length tiles in my chosen pattern. Using a long straight edge (like a spirit level) is advisable when laying each new plank. Place it halfway along the edge of the laid plank and mark; this will give you a guide for laying the next plank.
Next came the fun part, cutting the tiles to fit and finish the pattern. For 90-degree cuts, simply measure the gap. I measured both the left and right edges of the gap where the tile was going and marked them on the plank. Using a straight edge, I lined it up with both marks, and used a sharp knife to cut.
Alternatively, you can use a laminate cutter such as this NAACOO Laminate Floor Cutter from Amazon. Note, these are much more expensive than a sharp utility knife, such as this OX TOOLS Pro Heavy Duty Folding Knife from Amazon.
If you need to cut along the length of a plank, place a plank against the wall, place a plank on top, line up the edges of the laid plank underneath, draw a line and cut. Leave a small gap around the edges of the walls and cupboards. I also use 2mm or 3mm tile spacers like these OX Trade Cross Shaped Tile Spacers from Amazon to make sure the gaps remain even.
FAQ
How many planks will I need?
This is pretty simple to work out. I measure the largest square/rectangular area and multiply the two lengths to get the square meters. Do the same for smaller areas (not the main area). Add the totals, then add 10% to make sure you have enough planks for awkward cuts, mistakes and general wastage.
Small packs such as these Rustic oak Natural Wood effect Self-adhesive Vinyl plank from B&Q are commonly around 1sqm, while larger packs such as these Wood Grain Effect Self-adhesive Vinyl Floor Planks from B&Q typically cover around 5sqm.
Replacing the flooring in your home gives you the perfect excuse to think about other renovations and updates. Check out our vinyl flooring ideas for every room for inspiration for your next project, and where to buy different types of vinyl flooring to suit your home improvement plans.
