The 6 tools I guarantee will remove every single scrap of paint from your woodwork

When removing old paint from woodwork, it's tempting to rush the preparation and cover it with a new coat of paint. Who’s going to know? However, if I plan to stain or varnish the wood, I always make sure it's completely paint-free to achieve the finish and reveal the natural beauty of the wood below. Leaving any paint behind can spoil the appearance.

I could use less preparation, particularly if I'm repainting, but I believe doing the job properly gives better results. I’m probably a bit of a perfectionist, but using the right tools to remove old paint and sand wood guarantees the right finish.

In this guide, I explain what tools I use, how to use them (in the order suggested) and where you can buy them, so that you too can make sure your woodwork is easy to redecorate.

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1. Use a heat gun to soften paint

When you have layers of paint to remove, a heat gun like this budget-friendly VonHaus Heat Gun from Amazon can be your best friend. It's a fast, efficient way to soften old paint before it's removed.

It works really well with oil-based paints, and you might read that it doesn’t work as well with water-based paints, but I’ve never had a problem. For thin layers of paint on wood, a sander is often a better choice as it's a one-step process. No need to heat, remove and then sand. Test an area first to determine which is the best approach, as each task is rarely the same.

Using a heat gun is straightforward to use. It will typically have one or two settings - high and low – and nozzles to direct the heat. For removing paint, use the high setting and the surface nozzle (or no nozzle at all). I generally don't use a nozzle for open areas of wood. If using near glass or an area you don’t want heated, use a thin nozzle to concentrate the heat where needed.

Hold the heat gun about 50mm from the surface and turn it on. Hold in position, gently move it back and forth across the area and wait until the paint starts to bubble. Then move on to the next area. As soon as you have heated a decent-sized area – around 200mm – get your scraper (more on this below) to remove the paint and repeat the process until finished.

A word of warning: when putting down the heat gun while removing paint, make sure to place it on a surface that won’t be affected by heat, e.g., wood. Place it on carpet or vinyl flooring, and it can melt a hole in the material (I know I’ve done it). Also, place it in front of you so you can see it. You don't want to accidentally lean on it and burn yourself (I’ve done that as well).

2. Start removing paint with a scraper

A paint scraper is key when removing paint, and there are a few options to choose from. If I’m removing paint from a mainly flat surface like a door, windowsill, wall, or panelling, I like to use a larger paint scraper, like this 50 mm heavy-duty wood scraper from Screwfix.

Simply place the scraper on the heated paint, apply gentle pressure, and drag it to remove the paint. You may need to go back over the area a few times to remove all paint. Make sure that the blade is clean after use. Typically, the paint will fall off the scraper, but occasionally it will need to be removed.

For more intricate/narrower flat areas, you can use a smaller scraper such as this Bahco 625 Pocket Hand Scraper from Amazon.

3. Use a shave hook for scraping curves

A shave hook is a different type of paint scraper. It typically has a triangular head and includes a straight edge, a small straight edge, a curved inset, and a curved edge. It's this combination that helps remove paint from intricate areas. The long shaft and wooden handle help minimise heat transfer.

I use my shave hook to remove paint from architraves, skirting boards, stair bannisters, and hard-to-reach grooves and corners. How you use it depends on what you are working on. The inset curve is ideal for rounded contours, while the point is great for tight corners and 90-degree joins.

However, be careful when working on intricate areas; take your time to ensure the shave hook doesn’t slip and gouge the wood.

4. Introduce wirewool for delicate or difficult paint removal

Wirewool (or metal scourer) is a finishing tool for removing paint. When I can’t quite get into a groove or an intricate curve on a moulding with any of the other tools I have at my disposal, I often revert to using wire wool to remove it (fine grade is good).

It's a little more flexible than sandpaper and is good for just about getting into anywhere. For deeper grooves, I sometimes combine it with the thin edge of a scraper, like this Dekton 2" Professional Scraper from Amazon. This helps to reach further into a groove or crevice.

It's also a good option if you're using a paint stripper. Sandpaper is more prone to clogging quickly, so you need to use more of it. However, when using wirewool (or a metal scourer), you can clean and carry on.

5. Finish off with sandpaper

Sandpaper is the classic finishing tool; whether sanding wood by hand or with one of the best hand sanders, it's the perfect tool for removing any remnants of paint and improving surface adhesion for a coat of paint or varnish.

For flat areas, a random orbital sander works for most surfaces. A detail sander like this BLACK+DECKER 55W Compact Electric Mouse Sander from Amazon is a good choice for getting into 90-degree corners and sanding stair spindles.

For heavy paint removal, start with a coarse sandpaper grade, such as 60 or 80-grit. Then use a finer grit, such as 180 or 220, to finish. Find out more in our sanding wood guide.

6. Unleash paint stripper for intricate areas

I’m not a fan of paint stripper for most paint removal jobs, simply because it slows the removal process and, in many scenarios, doesn’t do a better job than the other tools in this article. Typically, you’ll need to apply and leave for 30 minutes on thin layers of paint before it's effective. For lots of layers, it will need to be left for hours, and in some cases covered.

However, there are times when it can be a sensible choice, typically when removing paint from moulding, or furniture where you want to keep the detail.

To use, apply as instructed, usually with a brush; leave, then remove with a scraper, and wipe clean with white spirit or soapy warm water to remove any residue.

Why removing all paint is a good idea

There are a few reasons why removing all paint from woodwork is a good idea. David Baines, Technical specification manager at Johnstone's Paint, reveals why it's particularly essential if you'll be using a non-paint finish after stripping.

“If the aim is to restore the natural finish or the original look of a surface, any old paint needs removing in order to stain, oil, or varnish the exposed timber correctly. That way, any finish will penetrate evenly and bring out the beauty of the natural grain more clearly," he says.

David also says there's another, more practical reason. “Stripping back to the bare wood also allows you to inspect the surface substrate for any hidden issues such as moisture damage, rotting or repairs like holes or scratches that may need attention.”

The risks of leaving paint in place

Leaving old paint on woodwork is not a smart move as it can cause issues with the new top coat, David continues.

“Any new paint applied over a surface will only be as strong as the layer underneath. If the existing coating has started to peel, flake, blister or crack, applying a fresh coat of paint over the top will only disguise the problem temporarily and in time, the problems will get worse,” he warns.

"Any poorly adhered paint left on a surface could result in newly applied paint also peeling and cracking.”

However, this isn’t the only issue, he continues. “Painting over the top of existing paint also increases the likelihood of an uneven finish, with visible differences in old and new paint coats. These imperfections are often more noticeable when painted with certain types of paint such as modern satin, eggshell, or gloss finishes, which tend to reflect more light.”

And finally, if varnishing or staining wood, any paint left will almost certainly lead to poor adhesion and spoil the finished aesthetic.

FAQs

Do different types of paint require different tools?

It depends, says David Baines, agreeing that, "the most effective paint removal method can vary depending on the type and condition of the existing paint coating."

"Oil-based paints tend to form a harder, more durable film so may require more thorough removal tools such as heat guns, specialist paint strippers or more intensive sanding down," he advises.

"Water-based paints are often softer in texture, therefore generally easier to remove. Therefore, rubbing or sanding is usually recommended."

Are there any alternatives you can use to remove paint?

The selection of tools already mentioned in this article should be more than enough to get the job done. I've never needed any other tools to remove paint.

However, there are a couple of eco-friendly alternatives available. Vinegar is often touted as a paint remover and is useful for cleaning away paint residue left after scraping. However, it’s not a viable alternative to heat guns, scrapers and sandpaper.

For outdoor jobs where old, flaking paint needs to be removed, a pressure washer is a quick and effective method. However, be careful as the water jet can damage the surface of more delicate wood.

Once you have removed any paint from wood and prepped the surface, you need to take the next steps. Check out our guides on painting skirting boards, how to paint a panel door, and painting wooden doors to make the most of your freshly prepared surfaces.