The world of flooring can be a complicated one – not only is there an enormous choice of styles and materials to choose from, but within each of the different types of flooring there lies a whole new set of variants.
When it comes to types of wooden flooring, while it might appear that the choice simply boils down to engineered or solid boards, there is actually far more to it than that. Everything from wood species to plank width needs to be decided upon – and that is before you even get into how it needs to be installed.
There are three main ways to lay wooden flooring: glue-down, floating, and nail-down. Each of these comes with its own set of requirements, pros and cons. Happily, to help you choose the right one for your home, we've picked the brains of some top experts in the field – simplifying at least one of your decisions.
How do you choose between a floating, glue-down or nail-down floor?
It is really important that when you are looking around at the different types of flooring you take note of how they are designed to be installed – some methods are much easier to carry out on a DIY basis than others.
That said, there are likely to be several different options that could work for each situation, as Adam Robertson, MD of Urbane Living, explains. "When it comes to choosing between nail-down, glue-down or floating wood flooring, there isn’t one method that is right for every home. The condition of the subfloor, the type of property, the floor covering being used and whether you have underfloor heating will all play a part in deciding which installation method is most suitable."
Ian Tomlinson, MD of Chaunceys Timber Flooring, agrees that the choice should be made after assessing individual needs. "There isn’t necessarily a one-size-fits-all answer, as the suitability of each method will depend on the subfloor, the type of flooring being used and the requirements of the room. However, for most projects, we would recommend fully bonding the flooring to a suitable solid subfloor."
Adam Robertson is the co-founder and managing director of Urbane Living, a specialist flooring company recognised for its expertise in parquet, bespoke carpets and runners. With a background in design and a strong eye for detail, Adam is passionate about all things related to quality timber, from floorboards to wall panels.
Chaunceys Timber Flooring is a family-run company based in Bristol with Ian becoming the Managing Director in 2012. They have been supplying sustainable, high-quality timber flooring to homeowners, award-winning architects, design and build companies, and renowned interior designers since 1988.
Floating floors
We'll begin by looking at floating floors – largely because they are so popular with those planning on installing engineered wooden flooring on a DIY basis.
"Floating floors are installed over a suitable underlay rather than being fixed directly to the subfloor," picks up Adam Robertson. "A vapour barrier should be used where required, and the correct underlay needs to be chosen for the floor and the conditions of the room. It is also important to allow for movement by leaving an appropriate expansion gap around the perimeter of the room, as timber naturally responds to changes in temperature and humidity."
Ian Tomlinson goes on to explain the pros and cons of this type of floor. "This is generally a more cost-effective option than the others and can work well for DIY installations, or where additional acoustic benefits are required, such as when using wooden flooring upstairs. However, because the boards are not fixed directly to the subfloor, you can experience a little more movement underfoot compared with a fully bonded floor.
"It is worth noting that the floating method is not suitable for every board, and we advise against floating planks wider than 220mm," adds Ian. "Where floating is being laid over underfloor heating, a low-tog underlay should be used, although heat transfer will not be as efficient as with a fully bonded floor."
Pros:
- Cost effective
- Easy to install on a DIY basis
- Good where acoustics are an issue
- Widely available
Cons:
- Can feel a little 'bouncy' underfoot
- Less heat transfer from UFH than with bonded floors
- Not always suitable for wide plank flooring
Glue-down floors
Next up, glue-down – also sometimes referred to as 'bonded' – flooring. This is often the method favoured by the pros, as Ian Tomlinson explains. "Glue-down installation involves using a flexible flooring adhesive to bond the engineered boards directly to the subfloor. When the subfloor is clean, dry, flat, level and structurally sound, this creates a particularly solid and stable floor with less movement or bounce underfoot. It can be a particularly good option when laying over concrete or screed, and is also our preferred method where you want a really solid, high-end feel.
"It is also generally our favourite option when installing wooden flooring over underfloor heating, as fully bonding the boards allows for more efficient heat transfer from the system into the floor," adds Ian.
Adam Robertson also favours glue-down installation. "Fully bonding to the subfloor provides a floor that is not going to move when walking on it and will sound and feel solid underfoot. That said, the subfloor needs to be clean, dry, strong and properly prepared before the adhesive is applied, so it is important not to overlook this stage."
Adam goes on to point out that care also needs to be taken when fitting if you plan on using glue-down over underfloor heating. "Installation needs to be carried out carefully and the recommended temperature and moisture levels maintained before, during and after installation. It is also important to check that the actual floor temperature does not exceed 27°C. This is the temperature of the floor itself, rather than the ambient room temperature – exceeding 27°C can damage the floor."
Pros:
- Feels solid underfoot and won't bounce
- Stable finish
- Very efficient heat transfer with UFH
Cons:
- Good subfloor prep is key for a lasting finish
- Exceeding maximum floor temperature with UFH can cause damage
- Trickier to install than floating
Nail-down flooring
And, finally, nail down, or 'secret screw', flooring – a tried-and-tested method of wooden floor installation involving driving a nail through the boards (usually at an angle so it remains hidden) directly into the floor beneath.
"Nail-down flooring is a more traditional method and is generally associated with timber subfloors where the boards can be securely fixed," explains Adam Robertson. "It is less commonly used than the others and is mostly suited to installations without underfloor heating, where solid oak is being used.
"It can give a lovely solid feel underfoot and works particularly well in period properties or where you want to retain a more traditional approach to laying a timber floor," continues Adam. "However, nailed-down floors can be prone to creating squeaking floorboards, and they are not suitable for every subfloor, so it is always worth checking the construction of the existing floor before deciding on this method."
"The key consideration is always making sure that the flooring and the subfloor are compatible with the chosen fixing method," points out Ian Tomlinson. "For example, if installing directly over joists, you need to use a suitable load-bearing board thickness, whereas our 15mm engineered boards require a solid subfloor or an appropriate plywood subfloor."
Pros:
- Perfect when laying solid wooden flooring
- Results in a solid feel underfoot
- Ideal for timber subfloors
Cons:
- More time consuming to install
- Unsuitable for some types of subfloor
- Can result in squeaks underfoot
FAQs
How do you prepare to lay new wooden flooring?
The success of any type of wooden floor is hinged on the type of floor structure you are dealing with, good preparation of the subfloor, as well as ensuring the timber has been properly acclimatised to the room it is being installed in.
"Whichever method you choose, preparation is just as important as the installation itself," picks up Adam Robertson. "The building should be sufficiently weather-tight, the walls should be finished and dry, and the room should be at a suitable temperature before the flooring is laid.
"One area that is frequently overlooked is allowing the screed sufficient time to dry. It takes at least one day per mm for screed to dry, and this can take longer in the winter months," warns Adam. "Wood flooring will absorb moisture if the subfloor is not fully dry, which can cause cupping and a deformed surface that is not easy to resolve without replacing the entire floor. Timber also needs to be given the right conditions to acclimatise before installation, as getting this stage wrong can cause problems later on."
"Whichever installation method you choose, the condition of the subfloor is incredibly important," adds Ian Tomlinson. "It needs to be secure, clean, flat, level and dry, with the moisture levels of both the subfloor and the flooring boards checked before installation. Getting this stage right will have a huge impact on the performance and longevity of the finished floor."
Before embarking on the task of fitting your own wooden flooring, be sure you read up on the most common flooring mistakes people make time-and-time again – this way, you can avoid doing the same.
