Is plywood a practical cost-effective alternative for kitchen worktops, or just false economy?
Discover the pros and cons of using plywood as a budget-friendly option for your kitchen worktops
Worktops are a key component of any kitchen update and can be expensive. However, they can also offer an opportunity to save money you can spend elsewhere on a renovation, perhaps on fancier hardware or smart lighting to uplift the overall appearance.
Plywood may not seem like an obvious option for a budget-friendly kitchen worktop, but it can be.
Here we take a closer look at the benefits a plywood worktop can bring, which plywood you will need to use, how to treat and maintain it so it will stay looking good for years, and why it might not always be the best choice for your renovation.
What is plywood?
Plywood is an engineered wood made of thin layers of wood bonded together with glue and resin. It has an odd number of layers, with each layer rotated 90 degrees from the next to improve strength and resist warping.
This design feature is what makes it a suitable choice for worktops if treated correctly. It is commonly available in 3mm, 6mm, 9mm, 12mm, 15mm and 18mm, with 18mm being a good option for kitchen worktops.
Best plywood for kitchen workops
Several plywood variations suit kitchen worktops. Will Frankling from Kitchen Makeovers explains the different types to look out for. “Birch plywood is the industry standard due to its dense, void-free core layers and fine grain. Hardwood-faced plywood is recommended over softwood options," he continues, "as softwoods dent and scratch too easily for kitchen use.”
Another option is Marine plywood and Will explains why: “It offers superior water resistance due to waterproof glue bonds, making it a strong candidate for wet areas. High-grade exterior or structural plywood (such as B/BB grade) should be specified to ensure a smooth face for finishing and minimal internal core gaps.”
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Shop these for the perfect plywood kitchen worktop
A premium marine-grade plywood guaranteed to be free from core gaps. Bonded with Weather Boil Proof (WBP) adhesive, it offers exceptional resistance to the elements.
This high-quality Birch plywood features a furniture-grade B/BB face and two full-face sanded birch surfaces. Available in 6mm, 9mm, 12mm, 15mm, 18mm and 24mm.
This 125mm corded orbital sander boasts a 280W motor, 8,000 - 12,000 opm and a variable speed dial that helps to provide a superior finish.
Will Frankling co-founded Kitchen Makeovers in 2018. They have over 30 locations across the UK, their kitchen makeover service is a cost-effective, sustainable solution providing a quick and efficient way to update the heart of your home.
Pros and cons of plywood as a kitchen worktop
Plywood has distinct advantages as a kitchen worktop, but it also has definite downsides. Here, we look at both to help you decide whether it meets your needs.
Pros of plywood for worktops
+Lower costs
“The main appeal for plywood is cost,” shares Bern Staerck, managing director of Furniture Clinic. He adds, “It is considerably cheaper than traditional marble, quartz or even butcher block style wood worktops.” However, good-quality plywood can match low-cost laminate.
+Aesthetic appeal
“Plywood offers a distinct, modern aesthetic with visible edge layering, strong structural stability and excellent resistance to warping compared to solid wood,” shares Will Frankling. “It's ideal for a Scandi or industrial style kitchen; the liner striped edges create a striking design feature," adds Bern.
+DIY-friendly
Plywood is much easier to work with than other kitchen worktop materials too. You only need a few tools that a lot of DIYers will already own and know how to use.
Cons of plywood worktops
-Susceptible to moisture
“Raw plywood is highly susceptible to moisture damage, particularly around kitchen sink areas, warns Will Frankling. “Without proper sealing, water can penetrate the layers, leading to delamination, swelling and staining.”
-Wear and tear
Plywood is not as hard-wearing as more traditional kitchen worktops such either; it will show signs of wear and tear and needs regular treatment. Ben Staerck points out: “If you scratch the plywood or scorch it with a hot pan, it can mark quite easily, and will also discolour if spills aren’t cleaned up quickly.”
Ben Staerk specialises in domestic care and repair. He's worked in the family business since 2005, developing decades of experience in cleaning and restoration.
Treating and protecting plywood
Untreated plywood simply won't work as a kitchen worktop warn the experts. It will damage quickly and absorb moisture. Before it can be a kitchen worktop, it needs treatment and there are a few options. "Oil would always be my recommendation for treating plywood for a kitchen,” shares Bern Staerk.
“It penetrates the wood, rather than sitting on top as a 'film'. It doesn’t crack or chip, and if it wears in one area, you can simply sand and re-oil that specific area, rather than the whole worktop,” he explains.
"Hardwax oils and specialised worktop oils are ideal as they allow the wood to breathe while providing liquid resistance,” agrees Will Frankling. A clear varnish is another option, he continues: "Varnish or polyurethane can create a tough, protective barrier.” But he adds a word of warning. "If cracked, water can seep underneath and rot the wood from within.”
Finally, “all treatments applied must be food-safe once cured,” notes Will. Ben recommends Furniture Clinic Worktop Oil - available from Amazon as "it is a dedicated food-safe option (compliant with the Materials and Articles in Contact with Food Regulations).”
Maintaining a plywood kitchen worktop
Like any kitchen worktop, plywood will need regular daily cleaning. Will Frankling suggests: “Clean daily with warm water, mild soap and a soft microfibre cloth. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners, bleach or abrasive pads.”
Like any natural wood worktop, it will also need regular re-treating. “Re-oil or seal every 3 to 6 months depending on usage," he advises. “Exposed edges require special attention, as end-grain absorbs moisture rapidly and needs additional coats of sealant.”
Ben Staerk offers a quick way to assess when it's time to re-treat: “Try a couple of drops of water on the surface, and if it no longer beads on the surface, it's time to re-coat.”
Comparative costs
Is plywood really a cheap alternative for a kitchen worktop? Yes is the simple answer. However, more expensive plywood can cost the same, or even more than budget-friendly laminate.
For example, a 2440mm x 1220mm sheet of quality 18mm Birch Plywood Throughout BB/BB from B&Q costs around £180. A Burlington oak wood-effect laminate and particleboard Post-formed edge Kitchen Worktop from B&Q costs £75. This is the lowest price you are likely to pay for a laminate worktop.
However, as it can be cut, a sheet of 2440mm x 1220mm plywood provides two 2.4m x 620mm lengths (the standard width for kitchen worktops is 600mm) compared with the laminate mentioned, which offers a single 2.4 m length.
Other options such as Marble, quartz, stone and even solid wood and Corian worktops will typically all cost more than a treated plywood alternative.
DIY tips for making your own plywood worktop
Fitting a plywood kitchen worktop yourself is a clear way to save money, and a task a competent DIYer (like myself) can tackle. Especially if you have a straight run and few corners. Before you start, look at your old worktops and note how they're fitted, especially in the corners.
Straight walls are a real bonus when fitting worktops. If the straight edge of the plywood doesn't sit flush against the wall, you can get away with gaps of up to around 5mm, especially if you're tiling above the worktops.
If you have larger gaps, you'll need to cut the back of the plywood accordingly. A quick tip: place the board in position and use an old-school compass with a pencil. Set the width to match the widest gap, then place the point against the wall and move along the worktop to mark a cut line. Then use a jigsaw like this Lumberjack Professional Jigsaw from B&Q to follow the pencil line for a neat fit.
You also need a few more tools. A decent circular saw like this Einhell 1410W Hand-held Circular Saw from Argos is essential for straight cuts, and you'll need a router like this DeWalt 900W 240V Corded Fixed Router from B&Q for sink cutouts.
For a professional finish, Will Frankling offers easy-to-follow advice: “Use a fine-toothed blade on a circular saw or router to prevent tearing the top veneer layer when cutting.”
My DIY hack to save money
If you're not keen on plywood's natural finish, or want a cheaper alternative, one option I have tried myself is basic plywood topped with self-adhesive plastic. Adding self-adhesive film means you don't have to worry about the plywood's finish. This allows you to buy basic plywood and keep the costs down.
You will however still need to seal the plywood before applying the film. Before you apply it, round off the plywood edges with an orbital sander. Use PVA, varnish, or a primer like Dulux Trade Aqua Uniprimer from B&Q or Bartoline Multi-Purpose PVA Adhesive & Sealer from Amazon to seal. Ensure the sealer is completely dry before applying the film.
I used this D-C-Fix Ribbeck Oak Mid Sheen Wood Effect Vinyl Self-Adhesive Film from B&Q. Treat the worktop with caution; the film is heat-resistant up to 70 degrees, so use trivets like these Silicone Trivets from Amazon for hot pans, and always use a chopping board.
Plywood worktops can form a part of any kitchen renovation. Check out our kitchen layout ideas, small kitchen ideas, and white kitchen ideas to make them part of your new kitchen.
Steve Jenkins is a freelance content creator with over two decades of experience working in digital and print and was previously the DIY content editor for Homebuilding & Renovating.
He is a keen DIYer with over 20 years of experience in transforming and renovating the many homes he has lived in. He specialises in painting and decorating, but has a wide range of skills gleaned from working in the building trade for around 10 years and spending time at night school learning how to plaster and plumb.
He has fitted kitchens, tiled bathrooms and kitchens, laid many floors, built partition walls, plastered walls, plumbed in bathrooms, worked on loft conversions and much more. And when he's not sure how to tackle a DIY project he has a wide network of friends – including plumbers, gas engineers, tilers, carpenters, painters and decorators, electricians and builders – in the trade to call upon.