What's the best technique for painting plywood? Experts reveal the tricks of the trade for getting the perfect result
Painting plywood needs to be done in the right way. Experts reveal the correct prep and paint techniques for a top-class finish
Plywood is a versatile, cost-effective option for a whole host of DIY projects. It can be used for flooring, roofing, wall cladding, building your own furniture, and much more. You can leave it in its natural state, especially if using high-grade plywood, but painting plywood adds another dimension and helps hide the surface.
The key is getting the preparation correct. Sanding plywood helps create a smooth, even surface for greater adhesion and is the first step to get right.
Choosing the right paint then helps to ensure a smooth, durable and good-looking finish. Here, the pros offer up advice on the process, and recommend the best tools and paint to get the job done.
The tools you need to paint plywood
- Wood filler
- Filler knife - like this Silverline Expert Filler Knife Set from Amazon
- Primer
- Paint
- Roller
- Roller tray
- Paintbrush - like this Harris Trade Paint Brush Multi-Pack from Amazon
- Sandpaper/Sander - like this Harris Seriously Good Assorted Sandpaper from Amazon
Shop these tools and paint for painting plywood
A high opacity, water-based wood primer undercoat that can be used on interior and exterior wood. Provides excellent adhesion between a substrate and a top coat and has low VOCs.
This is a shellac-based primer, sealer and stain killer. It is ideal for use on interior surfaces and spot priming of exterior surfaces. Offers unparalleled adhesion to glossy surfaces.
Contains 4 x 12mm medium pile mini rollers suitable for satin paints. Made from a lint-free fabric means no pile shedding, and no washing out required before use
3 steps to painting plywood
As with many paint projects, preparation and the right tools are key to a durable, good–looking finish when painting plywood.
1. Prepare the plywood
Start by filling any dents, imperfections, knot holes and nail and screw holes with a decent wood filler such as Everbuild Multi-Purpose Wood Filler. If the edges are going to be seen, paint the edges, fill and rub down.
When the filler is dry – as per manufacturer's instructions – rub down the whole sheet including the filler and edges to get a smooth surface to paint. Get a damp cloth to get rid of any dust on the sheet. Use a vacuum to remove any dust from nearby areas.
2. Apply primer
Now you need to seal the plywood with a primer. You will need a two–inch paint brush and a roller. A mini roller (four-inch) is ideal for edges and smaller areas. Use a bigger 9–inch roller for larger areas.
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Apply in a V- or W-shape to get an even spread of paint. Use the brush to even out the paint on the edges or any areas where paint has accumulated. When the primer is dry, rub down with a fine-grit (180-220) sandpaper grade and wipe clean with a damp cloth. You may need another coat of primer. Follow the same process as the first coat.
3. Add undercoat and top coat
To get ready for the top coat, you need to apply an undercoat first. Again, apply as with the primer. Leave to dry, rub down, and clean. You will probably need two coats to get a smooth, even, durable finish.
Rub down and wipe away any dust in between coats. Finally, add the top and leave it to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Best way to paint plywood edges
Although painting the front and back of plywood isn't too complicated, plywood edges need the most attention, shares Nick Parsons, technical manager at Harris. “Plywood edges are porous, so they will drink paint unevenly if you don’t prep properly.”
To combat this, Nick suggests you, “start by applying a good wood filler, let it dry, then sand back with an aluminium oxide medium sandpaper. A sanding block gives you the control you need on a narrow edge," he notes.
To ensure a strong, smooth finish, "prime before your topcoat; end grain absorbs paint heavily and primer is the difference between a finish that lasts and one that peels,” he advises. Then, to finish, "you’ll need two or three topcoats, with a light sand between each," Nick concludes.
The alternative is to use an iron–on wood veneer such as this Vale Veneers 50mm Real Oak Wood Veneer from Amazon. Cut it a couple of inches longer than the plywood edge, place it neatly on the edge, and use a household iron to apply it. Finally, trim with a Stanley blade, sand to remove rough edges, and paint.

Nick began his time with Harris in 1988, and throughout the decades has worked in various departments. His experience and product understanding informs the evolution of all Harris products, from benchmarking to insight, research and development.
Best paint for plywood
The key to getting the best results when painting plywood is to use a primer, says Michael Rolland, MD of The Paint Shed.
“It's important to use a primer before painting, as the porous nature of the material may absorb too much pigment. Use a wood primer like Farrow & Ball's Undercoat," he suggests, "and make sure it's completely dried before moving on.”
A top coat is typically a toss-up between satin and gloss. But it doesn’t have to be. “Once the plywood is primed, any water-based paint should create a nice finish," notes Michael. "Little Greene's Matte Emulsion is a popular choice for designer shades, and Zinsser's Allcoat is a more affordable, and just as reliable an alternative."
For furniture, you can try a Frenchic paint from its Lazy Range. If painting outdoors, make sure you choose a good exterior paint, such as this Johnstone's Quick Dry Satin from Amazon.

With The Paint Shed having evolved from painting contractors to retailers, Michael has years of experience within the painting industry, using this expertise to influence his own DIY projects using the best possible tools and materials.
FAQs
Do I need to sand plywood before painting?
Yes, you will need to sand before painting, says Michael Rolland. “It is best to sand all grades of plywood to ensure the surface is even and will adhere to the paint properly."
“Sandpaper of 120 grit or higher is best," he adds. "The fine grit is enough to remove imperfections – anything harsher risks damaging or oversanding the surface unnecessarily."
You can sand by hand, or the best orbital sanders will speed up the job. One point worth noting is that plywood comes in different grades, which can also affect how much sanding is needed.
“The grade of plywood is directly linked to its appearance," explains Michael. "For paint projects, Grade B is usually good enough, as it only has very few knots and imperfections.”
The best grade plywood is AB, which provides a consistent colour and either none, or only tiny knots. This is ideal if you want to varnish your plywood rather than paint it.
Does painting plywood waterproof it?
Painting plywood with standard paint, such as primer, undercoat, and gloss, will make it water-resistant, not waterproof, explains Nick Parsons, “If water gets into the layers, especially at edges, it will swell, delaminate and warp,” he warns.
If your plywood is regularly exposed to water, you need to consider different options, explains Nick. “You need exterior-grade plywood as a starting point, followed by a specialist exterior primer and durable top coat.
“Pay extra attention to edges as they need sealing thoroughly before painting," he adds. "For anything in contact with water, such as garden planters or pond surrounds, paint alone isn’t enough, and a specialist waterproofing product is needed.”
You know how to paint plywood, but can you use emulsion on wood? If you fancy a different finish, you can follow our guide on how to whitewash wood. And, if you want to use plywood in moisture-prone areas, make sure to read our waterproofing plywood guide.
Steve Jenkins is a freelance content creator with over two decades of experience working in digital and print and was previously the DIY content editor for Homebuilding & Renovating.
He is a keen DIYer with over 20 years of experience in transforming and renovating the many homes he has lived in. He specialises in painting and decorating, but has a wide range of skills gleaned from working in the building trade for around 10 years and spending time at night school learning how to plaster and plumb.
He has fitted kitchens, tiled bathrooms and kitchens, laid many floors, built partition walls, plastered walls, plumbed in bathrooms, worked on loft conversions and much more. And when he's not sure how to tackle a DIY project he has a wide network of friends – including plumbers, gas engineers, tilers, carpenters, painters and decorators, electricians and builders – in the trade to call upon.

