Freshly painted windows, doors, and skirting boards give any living space a serious lift and a new lease of life. It hides the wear and tear of years gone by and restores a room to its former glory.
However, you can’t just slap on a new coat of gloss. It may look good for a while, but it won’t stay looking good for long. Any paint project, particularly one that involves painting over gloss needs the right preparation, and the right type of paint to succeed.
Here we tell you what you need to know to get your woodwork looking brand new all over again.
Need more advice or inspiration for your project? Get two free tickets to the Homebuilding & Renovating Show
Can I paint straight over gloss?
Although it might seem the easiest route, Michael Rolland, MD at The Paint Shed, advises otherwise and explains why. "It's not recommended to paint straight over gloss even if it's in good condition, as the paint has little grip.”
As the glossy surface doesn’t provide good adhesion for whatever paint you use on top of it, the new paint will therefore chip easily and won’t look good for long.
To combat a low-grip surface, Michael suggests sanding first. “Sanding the paint and applying a primer will provide a strong base layer for gloss." Fine-grit sandpaper (220 grit) is good for improving paint adhesion.
Another option is to clean the paint, especially in certain areas. "Using sugar soap before repainting can be useful when painting areas that gather a lot of dirt and grease, like in kitchens," he adds. "Unlike sandpapering, it's not a must when it comes to painting over gloss, but it’s always a bonus step.”
With The Paint Shed having evolved from painting contractors to retailers, Michael has years of experience within the painting industry, using this expertise to influence his own DIY projects using the best possible tools and materials.
How to paint over gloss
Step one: Preparation
Your starting point for painting over gloss will depend on the condition of the existing paint, and whether you need to sand or completely strip back the old gloss.
“If the gloss paint is still in good condition, you don’t always need to strip it all back," says Michael Rollands. "While that’s the most thorough option – especially if there are lots of old layers built up – it’s not always necessary.”
Typically, sanding over the existing gloss is the quickest and easiest solution, but this depends on the paint's condition. If the paint is relatively chip-free, isn’t flaking anywhere and just needs a spruce up, then a quick sanding will get it ready for a new coat – or two – of some of the best gloss paint.
“In most cases, you can apply Zinsser BIN without sanding, and this will still give you a solid finish, which makes it a great option if you’re short on time," adds Michael.
However, if your gloss paint is in poor condition and will take a lot of sanding to get it ready for repainting, now is a good time to strip it back to bare wood and start again. This will give your surface an almost entirely new look when finished.
“It depends on the condition of the existing paint," agrees Nick Parsons, Technical Manager at Harris, expanding on the three main options.
“As mentioned, sanding suits gloss that’s in decent condition and just needs keying before repainting is the first. Where paint is already lifting or flaking, a scraper works best to remove this. Follow up with sandpaper to feather the edges and key the remaining surface.”
Another option is to use a heat gun, he continues. “A heat gun is the most thorough option for heavy build-up on architraves, skirting or window frames – keep it moving to avoid scorching.” To finish, he advises following close behind with your scraper.
An alternative to the more traditional options is to use paint stripper. “A chemical paint stripper can be a fast and effective alternative, especially for removing multiple layers,” adds Nick. "Apply with a brush, leave for the recommended time (usually a few minutes), then scrape away the softened paint.”
Don't forget to fill any cracks
If needed, once the paint is sanded or stripped, fill any cracks with wood filler or similar and leave to dry.
Rub down the wood filler with a 120-grit sandpaper, then, if you still need to sand the entire area, i.e. skirting boards, windows and doors, use an 180-grit sandpaper.
If the woodwork has a lot of flat surface area, use a hand sander or mouse sander to get the job done quicker. Once the gloss sheen has been completely sanded off, you are ready to paint.
Shop these to paint over gloss
This durable eggshell can be used throughout the home on skirting, doors, kitchen cabinets, furniture, and radiators. It has a low 20% sheen and is washable and wipeable.
A quick-drying primer and undercoat that can be used as a primer for new and bare wood and MDF. Provides good coverage with a single coat and dries within two hours.
A set of wooden handle paintbrushes that includes a 0.5, 1, 1.5 and 2 x 2-inch brushes. Ideal for all DIYers, the fine tips offer a smooth finish with minimal brush marks.
Step two: Add an undercoat
You will need to add at least one coat of undercoat to paint over gloss. Use a two- to three-inch brush to apply, then leave to dry as per the manufacturer's instructions. Once dry, check that the undercoat has properly covered the surface. If not, add another coat.
Rub down between coats with a fine 220-grit sandpaper. If painting bare wood, first apply a primer, then two coats of undercoat. Again, rub down gently between coats.
Step 3: add the top coat
To finish, apply a top coat (gloss, satin, or eggshell, for example) and leave to dry.
One coat should be enough, but make a judgement call and if needed, add another. Just make sure to leave for 24 hours before applying the final coat.
If prepared properly, you can use almost any paint you want as the top coat. However, it makes sense to use satin or gloss such as Leyland Trade Fast Dry Plus Brilliant White Gloss from B&Q. Alternatively, a variation such as eggshell (like this Dulux Quick Dry Eggshell Paint from Amazon) will achieve a good, hard-wearing, long-lasting finish.
If you are emulsioning the walls and want the same colour woodwork but cannot find the perfect match, you can use emulsion. But be warned: this won’t look good for long, or last as long as the previously mentioned choices.
Before purchasing any paint, remember to ask yourself how much paint do I need. You don't want to keep stopping and starting once the painting is underway.
Nick began his time with Harris in 1988, and throughout the decades has worked in various departments. His experience and product understanding informs the evolution of all Harris products, from benchmarking to insight, research and development.
Tips for painting chipped gloss paint
If your woodwork only has chips, rather than embarking on a full cover-up, can you simply touch up the chips?
“Yes, if the surrounding surface is sound,” says Nick Parsons. “The key is blending the repair so it doesn't show through your top coat.” You will need fine-grit sandpaper, undercoat, gloss, and a small paintbrush – ideally a one-inch product.
First, remove any loose paint around the chip. Then, “feather the edges of the chip with fine sandpaper,” says Nick. “Keep the pressure even to remove the hard edge between chipped and intact paint.”
If you have exposed bare wood to deal with, “spot prime it first. A bare substrate absorbs paint differently and can leave a visible patch even under multiple coats,” he warns.
To finish, "key (sand) the whole surface lightly before painting. Apply paint in thin, even coats with a good-quality brush or roller, such as a Harris Seriously Good Woodwork brush from Amazon. Two coats should make the repair invisible,” he concludes.
If it's time to get out the paint brushes for your gloss, it could also be the ideal time to update more of your current decor. Kick off with the latest paint trends, before checking out how to choose a paint colour and our living room paint ideas.
