Any tiler will tell you: the best time to fix a tiling mistake is before it happens. Correcting errors with tiling becomes very difficult once the tiles have adhered, often requiring the removal and breakage of tiles and adhesive.
To reduce the risk of costly setbacks when implementing your kitchen, hallway or bathroom tiling ideas, we asked professional tilers about some of the most common tiling mistakes DIYers are likely to make – and how to avoid them.
“A tiled floor or wall is a finished surface, and if you’re attempting it DIY, there are so many jobs that can ruin it if they’re done badly,” says Ryan Renforth of R.I Tiling Specialists.
“If a homeowner calls up and tells us they’ve made mistakes that need fixing, we request that they remove everything and get the walls or flooring put good before we get involved – because it could affect our reputation if we were associated with a project where tiling mistakes have been made.”
R.I Tiling Specialists is a Newcastle based tiling firm with specialist expertise in laying complicated patterns, large format tiles and small, intricate layouts including mosaics and herringbone. Tilers Ross and Ian will work with any pattern, layout or tile size.
1. Poor substrate preparation
The substrate is the surface which the tiles go onto. It needs to be prepared carefully so that the adhesive and tiles can be laid properly.
As Renforth puts it: “if you start with the right foundations, you’ll get the right outcomes. So, if the wall isn’t flat, it should be plastered to be made as flat and plumb as possible, while uneven floorboards should be removed and replaced.”
Make sure the substrate is clean, dry and free of dust and debris before you apply adhesive. If you fail to do this, it might struggle to stick.
2. Using the wrong laying pattern
Naturally, you’ll want to set out your tiles in a laying pattern that you find visually pleasing. However, it’s sometimes overlooked that certain shapes of tiles can be laid more neatly in certain layouts.
For instance, with rectangular ‘brick tiles’, choosing the wrong layout may lead to ‘lippages’, where the edge of one tile protrudes over the edge of another.
“I’ve seen a lot of customers laying these tiles on a half bond [with the pattern for each row starting half a tile offset from the previous row], but a lot of manufacturers are now saying to use a third bond [one third of a tile offset] so you don’t get any lippages,” says Pino Mazzafiore of Terranean Tiles.
Pino Mazzafiore is the Owner of Terranean Tiles, a tile retailer and distributor based in Darwen, Lancashire. Terranean Tiles sells bathroom tiles, kitchen tiles and floor tiles in-store or by order, and also provides professional tiling services.
3. Using ready-mix adhesive for bathroom tiles
Tile adhesives come in various types, and the best one to use depends on the project specifics. Using a poorly suited type could lead to failed adhesion and cracked or broken tiles.
“A lot of people use a ready-mixed adhesive, which is an easy option but shouldn’t be used in a bathroom as it is not waterproof,” says Renforth. “If you use it in this room and a fitting starts to leak, or if silicone has been applied incorrectly, then the tile will fail and come off quicker.
“To tile a bathroom, you should use a standard-set adhesive that you’d mix with a drill and paddle.”
Shop tiling accessories
Most adhesives (except ready-mixed ones) need to be mixed at home. You'll need a decent drill, a bucket and a mixing paddle like this one.
4. Choosing a poorly matched grout
You might be surprised at the range of grout colours available at specialist tile showrooms. Choosing the right shade and formulation matters to the finished look of your tiling.
“Long gone are the days of using white grout with every tile,” says Mazzafiore. “The trend we’re seeing at the moment is using a grout that’s the same colour as the tiles. Colour matching creates a flawless look.”
It’s also important to mix your chosen grout carefully. “Make sure you mix it in the same ratio from one wall to the next,” Mazzafiore advises. “For example, if you’re doing 2:1 grout and water, keep that consistent so the colour of the grout will be the same on each wall.”
If tiling a bathroom or another wet space, we would recommend using a water-resistant grout.
5. Skipping the decoupling membrane (in some cases)
According to Renforth, you don’t always need to use a decoupling membrane – but for some tiled floors, it’s essential. This layer of material limits the motion transfer between a flexible substrate (such as wood or screed) and the tiles above. Without this membrane, excessive movement can cause cracks, delamination (the tiles come unstuck), and cracked or crumbling grout.
“A decoupling membrane is important on new screeds and over new underfloor heating systems which might be covered with a tongue-and-groove cement board,” says Renforth. “It’s only needed where movement beneath floor tiles is likely; not on every single install.”
For certain floor tiling projects, laying the tiles over a decoupling membrand is a necessary insurance against damage resulting from sub-floor movements.
6. Neglecting waterproof tanking in the bathroom
Before a professional tiler tiles a bathroom, they will protect the wall and floor surfaces with a waterproof membrane. This process of ‘waterproof tanking’ is strongly recommended for wet spaces by the British Standards Institute – and by Renforth.
“Shower areas in particular should be waterproof tanked,” he says. “The surface preparation for a shower costs around £50-60. You paint it on, you seal it, and it adds 10-15 years of life to your bathroom.
“For the sake of saving that money, your bathroom could leak, your ceiling could cave in and you could end up having to redo the bathroom.”
Waterproof tanking is essential before tiling a bathroom. This kit includes everything you need for the job.
7. Not making enough allowance for wastage
Most DIYers understand that they need to buy a greater quantity of tiles than they would need to perfectly fill the required dimensions. This allows for wastage of tile area that will happen when you cut edge pieces for the boundaries of the tiled area. Nonetheless, it’s easy to buy too few.
“My advice is that you should always allow 20% wastage,” says Mazzafiore. “If you try to save money by getting only 10% extra, you might not have enough tiles for the job, depending on the cuts required. If you find yourself one box short, there’s no guarantee that the supplier will still be making the same tiles.
“When you’re buying a job lot of tiles online, make sure the seller has accounted for the wastage,” he adds.
FAQs
Is tiling suitable for DIYers?
Many DIYers do their own tiling, but there are many common tiling mistakes you’ll need to avoid, including the ones listed above. There’s no doubt that hiring a professional is likely to give you a better finish and less risk of mishaps. “That’s my best advice for any DIYer: try to find a decent tiler, check their credentials and use them if possible,” says Renforth.
If you are taking on your own tiling, remember to purchase plenty of tiles to allow for wastage, choose well suited grout and adhesive, and prepare your substrate (perhaps with a decoupling membrane) before you start laying the tiles.
Are wall tiles and floor tiles the same?
Most tiles are designed specifically for use on a certain type of surface – usually either a floor or a wall. Floor tiles are generally thicker and more durable than wall tiles, as they must bear the weight of people and furniture. Wall tiles are lighter, which helps them to stay in place.
Using wall tiles on the floor is likely to result in breakages, while floor tiles adhered to the wall are at risk of falling off. “This is why it’s important to check what type of tiles you’re buying and whether they’re suitable for walls or floors,” says Mazzafiore.
The best way of all to avoid tiling mistakes is to do plenty of research before your start tiling. Start by reading our guide on tiling a bathroom wall, how to tile a hallway floor and how long does tile adhesive take to dry.
