Repointing brickwork might not set your pulse racing, but it is an essential house maintenance project.

When you consider that the mortar you use when repointing brickwork can make up as much as 15% of the overall surface area of the exterior of your home, be it of brick or stone construction, it becomes apparent what a huge impact this element has, not only on the stability and performance of your home, but also on its final appearance.

Poorly-mixed mortar, inappropriate materials, the wrong colour or a mix that is badly matched to existing mortar, not to mention mortar that has been badly applied – spread all over the brick face itself, for example – will spoil even the best brickwork. This is huge shame as, when done well, repointing brickwork is a job that can really enhance a home, despite its seeming insignificance.

If you are still not convinced that you need to repoint then bear in mind that mortar is a primary defence against water ingress and as such is a critical aspect of a home maintenance schedule. When taking on a renovation project, repointing brickwork should be high on the priority list — it can often be a source of leaks and a cause of damp in homes in need of wider renovation.

Although some renovators do choose to take on the job of repointing brickwork on a DIY basis, given the requirement for working at heights it is usually a job that is outsourced to a professional.

See more DIY tutorials

Essential Facts About Repointing Brickwork

What is Mortar?

Mortar is the substance that separates individual masonry units (such as brick or stone blocks) from one another. It protects the building from the effects of weathering and water ingress and is also used to fill any irregularities on the bedding faces of the bricks or blocks (the bedding is the mortar used to bind the bricks to one another.)

Mortar can be made up of a variety of different materials. As it is softer than bricks and stone, at some point in the life of a building, it will begin to deteriorate — this is the way things are supposed to happen. If the mortar was harder than the bricks, the bricks themselves would take the brunt of weathering, causing them to erode and fail — and replacing brickwork is far more expensive and disruptive than repointing brickwork.

Put simply, repointing brickwork is renewing the outer portion of the mortar joint, and a good repointing job on your home should last up to 50 or 60 years.

What Does Repointing Cost?

If you can easily see open joints around the mortar bed, then it is time to think about repointing.

Although this is a straightforward job and the materials required are not expensive, the cost of the labour involved in brickwork repointing can be quite high. It can also be hard to find a builder willing to come out for small areas of repointing, which is why many people choose to carry out repointing on a DIY basis. DIY brickwork repointing will usually require scaffolding hire too.

According to priceyourjob.co.uk, you should budget around £20-£30/m² for brickwork repointing, with their estimate for a three bedroom semi-detached house coming in at around £3,000 once scaffold hire, materials and labour are factored in.

Which Mortar for Repointing?

A large range of textures and colours can be achieved when mixing mortar. Most houses built up to and including the Victorian era used lime mortar and if your home falls into this category then this is most certainly the mix you should use.

The use of cement in repointing mixes does tend to be a bad thing in old houses (although it is still frequently done) causing decay to occur earlier than with lime mixes and damp more likely to raise its head. Cement mortars are harder, more brittle and less porous than lime and will weather slower than the bricks themselves.

Mortars containing cement tend to be more susceptible to salt and sulphate attack, while mortars containing only lime (putty or hydraulic) and sand are not vulnerable to this kind of damage. Lime mortars are more expensive than cement — but in the long run they can actually save money as putting right problems caused by inappropriate cement mixes can be costly.

Repointing a Wall: A Step-by-Step Guide

Tools and Materials Needed:

  • Chisel
  • Cement mixer
  • Pointing trowel
  • Mortar board
  • Scaffolding
  • Soft brush
  • Wire brush
  • Lime
  • Sand
  • White cement
Repointing a wall: Steps 1 and 2

1. Repointing brickwork is clearly high priority on this wall. Not only is there a mixture of materials, but the profile of the pointing ranges from semi-recessed to plastered-on-top — not good. As with many renovation projects, plants have been growing up against the walls — these should be pinned back and then tethered into place before any work can start on the building. Repointing brickwork is a messy job so plastic sheets should be laid over flower beds, new paving and areas of grass.

2. The old pointing is removed with a hammer and chisel, with particular care taken near the areas shown in the following four steps. Disturbing old mortar around windows can affect the way they fit (and open). The chisel is used on its own to chip out only the loose material.

Repointing a wall: Steps 3 and 4

3. Take care around doorways — if mortar gets pushed into the gap between the wall and the frame it can cause the door frame to move and make the door hard to open and close. Loose mortar is raked out gently with a narrow chisel. Metal gutter brackets are prone to falling out if they are disturbed during the chopping-out phase. Power cables for external lighting is often run inside the pointing so take care. It was easy to spot on this job because the joint was a different colour in the course leading up to the lamp.

4. This is what is left after the old mortar has been removed. The edge of the stone is revealed all round and there is now a gap wide enough to take (and hold) the fresh mortar which will soon be applied to the wall.

Repointing a wall: Steps 5 and 6

5. Plenty of dust is left in the gaps between stones afterwards. This is brushed out before repointing begins.

6. To keep the colour of the mortar consistent for the whole job, the mix is carefully measured out. In this case, three buckets of yellow building sand, one bucket of lime and a quarter bucket of white cement. Each full bucket is levelled off at the top while the quarter-full bucket of white cement is measured off to a line drawn inside the bucket.

Repointing a wall: Steps 7 and 8

7. Repointing is generally done from the top of the wall downwards. However, the first half metre of a solid wall without a damp-proof course (as here) holds a lot of moisture so this section is done first — giving it more time to dry. The mortar is pushed in firmly, working from right to left.

8. Once two or three courses have been repointed, the vertical joins between are filled too. Notice that the mortar is allowed to overlap all the joints and no attempt is made at this point to neaten it up. With the bottom half metre of the wall complete, the top section is started. Within five hours, a team of two complete this stage on this 24m2 wall. The mortar is left until nearly dry. How long the drying process takes depends on the weather and the position of the house in relation to the sun. In this case, the mortar is ready in just a couple of hours.

Repointing a wall: Steps 9 and 10

9. A wire brush is used to take off the excess mortar and leave a face joint that is only just recessed from the face of the wall. In other areas of the country, a deeper joint or one that is flush with the wall may be more appropriate. The wire brush also cleans up the stonework as it moves over the surface.

10. A close-up of the finished job. With the face joints now clearly defining the stones, the wall not only looks great, it is ready to withstand years of weathering.

Repointing Brickwork: Top Tips

  • Using a narrow chisel around windows and doors minimises the risk of pushing loose pieces further in around the frames
  • The use of an angle grinder should really be avoided — it is easy to slip and damage the face of the brickwork or stone and is unnecessary with most traditional lime-based mortars
  • When you have a space large enough to take the new mortar, stop raking out and brush the joints down. Then give the joints a spray with water — this helps the new mortar dry out evenly. Wait for the water to dry off before repointing
  • Aim to replicate the colour, texture and durability of the existing mortar. Carefully measure each component of your mortar and make a note of the quantities used to ensure each bucket load matches the last
  • Begin from the top down (in order to keep any dust and water spray away from freshly repointed joints)
  • A slightly open final texture tends to look more attractive than a very smooth one. An easy way to achieve this is to gently rub the filled joint with a stick or rubber, and then to softly brush it over before it dries
  • To avoid the new mortar drying out too quickly, spray the joints lightly with water from time to time
Articles like this Comments
Comments
  • Repointing mortar

    Really great article with some nice detailed pics. Great to see that you’re using a chisel instead of a grinder.

  • Percy

    The contractor who is doing my neighbour’s stone wall jointing on the house is using a Putzmeister mixer compressor to inject the mixture (mortar with our regional tint) into the walls. He also adds an accelerant into the mix. The joints are then finally done to the surface level as if he were icing a cake. He then takes a tiny trowel to the joints and, afterwards, a wire brush. I have been taken to see several other buildings that he has done over the last few years. The owners are all raving with excitement about his wonderful work. It is a pricey undertaking but I am told that it is cheaper than doing it all manually. What is your advice regarding this method? Thanks.

  • Robert Robertson

    Beware, this is a lime rich cement mortar and not a genuine lime mortar. The latter should contain no portland cement, and should be based on a well graded sharp sand to optimise strength and breathability. I don’t think the joints have been prepared properly either. If the mortar is drying in 2hrs it is not going to cure correctly either, all mortars need to be protected from drying too quickly. But at least it isn’t strap pointing ! For advise on mortars for solid walls in older property see English Heritage publications.

  • A M Services (Stonemasons)

    I strongly agree with Robert R that the use of portland cement should be avoided. This will mean that the mortar will take alot longer to naturally set and should only start tending when it has a leathery texture. However Lime comes in many forms and there are many factors to take into account i.e environment, location and the type of masonry when choosing the right mortar. If a mortar mix demands to be strengthened in any way mainly due to enhancing durability then pozzolans should be added. Again there are many types of pozzalans that have advantages and disadvantages when using lime mortars and really comes down to the factors i explained above.Please visit our website http://www.amasonryservices.co.uk for more information or email me at info@amasonryservices.co.uk

  • […] can be beneficial both cosmetically and structurally for you to get your house repointed – especially if you live in an old building. It does not […]

  • […] There are many reasons for this; as with the roof, the weather is the main reason as to why houses need repointing, but there are other factors that come into play as well. The most bizarre is that birds peck away […]

  • Post a comment
    You must be logged in to comment. Log in

Our Sponsors