Can you sand engineered wood flooring is a straightforward question that doesn’t have a straightforward answer. Different types of engineered wood flooring need to be treated differently.

It’s not the same as other types of wood flooring. Engineered wood flooring has a thin layer of wood, known as a veneer or wear layer, on the top of a wood core. This doesn’t come in one size, which means different scenarios and results apply to different thicknesses.

Here you can get expert advice on how to sand different sizes of engineered wood flooring, how often it can be sanded and the best tools for the job.

Can you sand engineered wood flooring?

Engineered wood flooring typically consists of solid wood core such as HDF (High Density Fibreboard) that's covered by a solid wood veneer. The core and the veneer differ in thickness which, “impacts its durability, stability, and insulation properties,” explains Ian Tomlinson, managing director at Chaunceys Timber Flooring.

But what sizes and thickness does engineered wood flooring come in?

Ian reveals that, “engineered wood flooring typically comes in thicknesses ranging from 12mm to 20mm, although there are other specifications of floorboard available.”

He adds, “generally, thicker boards offer a more substantial solid wood top layer and additional ply layers in the base, enhancing its durability and strength.”

Different thicknesses work differently says Ian. “For high-traffic areas, 20mm planks are ideal as they can be sanded and refinished multiple times. Thinner boards (12mm-15mm) are more cost-effective but will not offer the same longevity or load bearing strength.”

Which you choose will affect how long the engineered wood floor lasts and how often it can be sanded. “It's important to note that not all engineered floors are created equal," says Ian. "Understanding the materials used in your flooring is crucial to ensure it meets your durability and aesthetic needs.”

He recommends that you, “look for high-quality hardwoods in the top layer for durability, and a base made of high-grade birch plywood. Budget construction methods - often using a thinner top layer and plywood that mixes in layers of softwood, such as pine or poplar - offer a lower quality board that lacks the durability, strength and dimensional stability of an all-birch plywood.”

What sandpaper should I use on an engineered wood floor?

“When restoring or sanding an old finish off of a floor, you will always need to use a series of grit papers,” says Ian Tomlinson. Sandpaper grits sit under different sandpaper grades, for example, a coarse grade sandpaper has a grit of 60 or less, while a fine sandpaper is typically a 120 to 220 grit.

Ian recommends that you, “start at the lowest grit, which is coarse, giving the most aggressive sand. You then work up through the papers until you reach your finish sand grit, most commonly between 80 – 120 grit.

“You can use a floor buffer or orbital sander with a fine grit sandpaper screen (e.g. 120 grit)," he adds, "to remove any minor indentations or raised fibres to get the floor surface smooth and ready for refinishing.”

The most common option according to Ian is to start with a 36 grit paper, which works well on most floor finishes and conditions of timber. But be warned.“There are exceptions to this though, dictated by the condition of your wood flooring and its existing finish," adds Ian.

Finally, an additional word of advice. “It is worth noting that it’s usually a false economy to start with a higher grit paper as it takes a long time to remove the finish and scratches," says Ian, "and it will use a lot of sandpaper.”

Try these when sanding engineered wood flooring

What is the best way to sand an engineered wood floor?

There are a few different ways to sand an engineered floor. For a small floor, you could use a hand sander, belt sander or pole sander. But these options involve more effort, especially the manual approach. Ian Tomlinson suggests that, “the most effective way to achieve an evenly sanded floor is to use a professional quality belt sander and then a floor buffer or orbital sander for the final fine sanding.” Industrial floor sanders can be hired for around £50 a day.

To finish a floor, “use an edge sander along the edges of the room," says Ian, "and a hand-held detail sander or scraper for corners and any areas that can’t be reached with the edge sander.”

FAQ

Can you sand 2mm engineered wood? 

“This depends on the condition of the floor and whether you are fully restoring a very worn floor, or if you are wishing to change the colour,” says Ian Tomlinson. The veneer (aka wear layer) is typically thinner on less expensive engineered wood flooring. Often it will be 1-2mm thick which will affect the sanding process.

“As a rough guide, sanding will take about 0.5mm – 1.5mm of material from the wear layer," explains Ian. "This means that if you have a wear layer consisting of just 2mm, you'll probably only be able to sand and refinish the floor once. If the wood top layer of your engineered wood flooring is less than 3mm, " he adds, "this will limit your ability to sand back your floor and refinish it.”

If you are thinking of choosing new engineered wood flooring then you should consider a thicker wear layer if it fits within your budget. “That's why we only offer boards with a minimum of 3.5mm thick top layer,” explains Ian. “This gives you the ability to sand the floor a few times without any issues.”

“With that said, with proper care and maintenance," says Ian, "sanding your floor should be something that can be avoided.”

Does engineered wood work well in a kitchen? Read our how to choose the best wood flooring for kitchens guide to find out more. And don’t miss our wood flooring ideas and wood flooring cost guides.

Are you asking yourself, 'can you sand laminate wood flooring?' Then there’s a good chance that you have a reason why. Does your flooring have superficial scratches? Is there unwanted and unsightly damage? Is it worn out but you don't want the expense of replacing?

Different types of flooring need to be treated differently and taking sandpaper to laminate isn’t highly recommended. But there are occasions when it’s an acceptable option. Here we reveal reasons when you might need to sand your laminate wood flooring and how to do it.

Can you sand laminate wood flooring?

The simple answer would be no as Christoph Wellekoetter, Head of Product Management at flooring specialists Parador explains, “We would advise not sanding laminate wood flooring. Although laminate flooring consists of almost one hundred percent wood, its product structure is complex and comprises a series of protective layers that give it durable properties.”

If you choose to sand laminate wood flooring you could be heading for trouble as Wellekoetter explains, “Sanding laminate removes these protective layers, ultimately weakening the flooring.”

He adds, “Our laminate flooring is fitted with a highly abrasion-resistant and waterproof overlay made of melanin resin that offers high protection against everyday wear and tear.” This top protective layer is found on all laminate flooring and if compromised it will lose its protection for the layer underneath. This can lead to the decorative wood effect layer becoming worn and the pattern disappearing.

But, while sanding laminate wood flooring is not recommended, that doesn’t mean you can’t.

Reasons to sand laminate wood flooring?

Laminate wood flooring is prone to wear and tear in the same as any other flooring and will need a refresh to keep it looking good.

1. Get rid of superficial scratches 

Constant footfall across the floor and moving furniture can leave unwanted surface scratches. Using a fine grade sandpaper will help smooth out the protective layer and hide the scratches. After sanding, think about using a laminate cleaner and/or a laminate reviver to add a new protective layer to restore the laminate.

2. Paint old laminate flooring 

If your laminate wood flooring is worn and losing its lustre you can paint laminate flooring to give it a new lease of life. Just make sure that you prep properly and use the right paint to get a good-looking, durable finish.

An obvious alternative is to repair old laminate – or replace with new laminate wood flooring. Replacing a laminate wood plank isn’t that difficult, but there is the issue of matching with the current floor.

Laminate wood flooring is typically made in batches and different batches can differ from others, giving a mismatch when installed. If you have leftover flooring use this. If not, take the flooring with you when looking for new flooring to get a good match.

Try these to help maintain your flooring 

Which sandpaper can I use?

If you decide you are going to sand your laminate wood flooring you need to proceed with caution. There is only a thin protective layer on the top of laminate wood flooring and if you just want to refresh your laminate flooring and get rid of superficial scratches you will need a fine sandpaper grade.

A 240-grit sandpaper is a good choice. It's fine enough to help remove a portion of the protective layer without affecting the decorative layer. If you are going to paint your laminate flooring you can use a more abrasive sandpaper such as 120-grit to help adhesion.

FAQs

Is higher rated laminate flooring better to sand than lower rated laminate? 

Laminate flooring is rated from AC1 to AC5, which indicates how durable the flooring is. Laminate flooring found in the home is typically rated from 1-3 , while 4-5 rated laminate is typically used in commercial properties.

Generally speaking, the higher the thickness, the more durable the laminate is and the more it can be sanded. For residential properties flooring with an AC3 rating is the most durable and is ideal for heavy footfall, i.e hallways. While AC1 laminate is only good for light footfall, making it a good choice for bedrooms.

Does sanding restore dull wood laminate flooring? 

No. Just sanding dull laminate wood flooring will not restore the floor to how it was previously. However, sanding with a fine grit sandpaper will help get rid of fine imperfections and smooth out the floor. But, to restore your laminate wood flooring you will need to regularly maintain the floor with a specialist cleaner and reviver.

Looking after your laminate flooring is key for keeping it looking good for longer. But if it needs replacing, how much does it cost to lay laminate flooring. If you're going to do it yourself check out our Tools for laminate flooring guide to help make sure that you have everything you need.

There will likely come a time when you need to repair wood flooring in order to restore it to its former glory. It might be the constant contact with footwear, the unprotected feet on furniture being dragged across the floor, or an accidental drop of a heavy object - all of which can potentially destroy the beauty of your wooden floor.

But regardless of the type of wood flooring that adorns your home, you'll want to keep it looking good and ideally without the hassle and expense of having to replace it.

Here we look at the techniques and tools you’ll need to fix any scratches, gouges, unwanted marks and worn out spots to make your wooden floor look good again.

Different wood types affect how you repair wood flooring

The beauty of wood is that it can be repaired, but how it is repaired and how often it can be will depend on what type of wood flooring you've used in your wood flooring ideas.

High quality solid wood flooring can be finished numerous times, but flooring like engineered wood flooring can have a much shorter shelf life as it only has a thin layer of real wood. The top layer is typically 2-3mm thick, but more expensive flooring will commonly have a thicker top layer, often twice as thick.

Compared with solid wood flooring, the top layer on engineered wood restricts how often it can be sanded before the core material is exposed. This makes it ideal for minor repair jobs such as surface scratches and gouges. However, deeper gouges may mean that it needs replacing.

The colour and finish on a wooden floor will also have a bearing on how it is repaired. A varnished floor needs a slightly different approach to a stained floor, and you will need to think about colour matching as well.

Repairing a varnished wood floor

Repairing a varnished floor is typically a three-step process. You will need to remove the old varnish, repair the wood floor and varnish again to finish. But where do you start?

Rotem Eylor, CEO and founder at Republic Floor suggests, “clean the floor first and then gently sand down the worn area with fine grit sandpaper.” A 120-180 grit sandpaper grade will be the ideal choice to get a smooth finish. But, says Rotem, "you do not want to sand too much, just enough to get rid of the worn down varnish so that the new varnish you apply will go on easily and smoothly.”

The next step is to, “fill in any scratches with wood filler and once dry, sand over to make it smooth” says Rotem.

Remember to colour match the filler as close to the original wood as possible. Wood flooring is rarely a uniform colour, so note the colour where the damage is and match to this as close as possible.

To finish, “clean again to get rid of the dust from sanding and lightly apply thin coats evenly across the surface. Let dry and smooth it out if needed,” says Rotem. Note what type of finish that the varnish is on the original floor - matt, satin, gloss - and make sure that you match it to ensure an invisible repair job.

How to use wood filler

Woodfiller is a popular option for most types of wooden floor and finishes, and is typically available in a host of natural wood colours, so you can get close to the colour of the original floor.

“Wood filler is good for any gaps, cracks, scratches, dents or holes in flooring,” shares Rotem Eylor. Make sure to match as close as possible to the colour of wood around the repair and apply to the damaged area. “Apply it once the surface has been sanded down and then use a putty knife to smooth over.”

For more superficial scratches and light gouges you can use wax filler sticks that come in a wide variety of colours. These can also be mixed to match your wooden floor colour.

Try these when you repair wood flooring

How to repair a wood floor without sanding

If your wooden floor has superficial damage such as surface scratches, you can often buff them out to restore the surface.

Start by sweeping and vacuuming the floor to get rid of any dust and debris. Next use a suitable wood floor cleaner/restorer for your wooden floor like this Weiman Wood Floor Polish and Restorer from Amazon.

Follow the manufacturer's instructions on how to apply. Finally, use a buffing machine with the right abrasive pad. You can hire a suitable machine from around £40 per day.

How to fix a gouge

This will depend on the size of the gouge, but the process is very similar to fixing scratches. Sand, colour match a wood filler, fill, sand again and finish.

If the edges of the gouge are really rough and bleed into the surface of the surrounding area you can use a sharp utility knife like this Rolson Folding Lock-Back Knife from Amazon to cut around the edge to get a more uniform shape. Then sand and fill with a suitable wood filler.

Alternatively, if the gouge is large you can consider cutting out and replacing with a matched piece of flooring if you have any left over. If using wooden planks, replace and try to colour match/blend as best as possible.

FAQs

How do I repair wood flooring damaged by pet urine? 

Rotem Eylor says, “it depends if the urine has soaked deep enough into the wood to cause permanent damage.” If the urine goes unnoticed it will seep into the cracks and joins in the floor, meaning you can't just sand it out.

Start by cleaning the patch if the urine hasn’t been there for too long - say a couple of hours to a day. Use water and a suitable cleaner for pet stains, and give the area a wash to help remove the smell. If it has left a stain you can use a diluted solution of water and bleach to help lighten the stain before sanding and staining or varnishing.

However Rotem warns that, “sometimes it does involve replacing the floor boards where the urine has soaked into. This can involve, sanding the floor, then replacing the affected area and refinishing it to blend the old and new floor together.”

There's typically a lost of sanding involved if you need to repair wood flooring. Check out our guide for sanding floorboards for larger projects and our best hand sanders for wood and types of sanders guides for smaller jobs.

Kitchens are hard working spaces — so the best wood flooring for kitchens has to be able to keep up with them. There is also the small matter of the inevitable hot oil splatters and cooking spills to take into account, as well as high foot traffic, paw prints, dropping of sharp objects and scraping of stools and chairs. 

So you can start to see why giving due attention to selecting the right types of flooring in this area of the house is so important. Of course, on top of all of this, the kitchen is the room in which we now rely on as a socialising space — which means it needs to look amazing too. Wooden flooring might be one of the most popular types of flooring but while it is undeniably beautiful to look at, it is not always the most practical choice — especially in spaces that are prone to fluctuating humidity levels and where hot, highly coloured and oily substances get flung about.

Here, we take a look at the best wood flooring types for kitchens so that you can have a floor that is both stylish as well as practical and low maintenance. 

How to choose the best wood flooring for kitchens 

Certain rooms of the house require you to put more thought into the materials you use in there than others. For example, when it comes to bathroom flooring, you need to be thinking about materials that can handle the odd flood, lots of humidity and be non-slip.

Likewise, when it comes to the best flooring for kitchens, you also need to be thinking about everything that goes on in the space and how your flooring is going to cope with it all. While it is true to say that, given enough of your time and care, any types of wood flooring could be fitted in a kitchen, some are going to be more suitable than others — particularly if you don’t want to dedicate too much of your time mopping, drying and reminding people to be careful with their drinks.

“As a natural material, wood flooring is the perfect pairing for all manner of kitchen styles," says Natalie Mudd, Creative Director at The Wood Flooring Co. "It can be the perfect finishing touch for classic Shaker-style kitchens, but can also add warmth and longevity to more modern, streamlined designs."

Here, we explain how to use wood flooring in the kitchen. You want to choose something ultra hard-wearing, easy-to-clean, resistant to all manner of substances, structurally stable and fabulous to look at. Is that really too much to ask? 

Play it safe with engineered wood rather than solid 

The main decision you will be faced with when looking at types of wood flooring for your kitchen will be whether to opt for solid wood or an engineered wooden floor. 

Most experts agree that engineered flooring wins hands down in this particular room thanks to its enhanced structural stability. 

"Engineered wood is made up of various layers, which is what makes it far more durable and stable than a traditional solid wood floor, not to mention more sustainable," says Natalie Mudd. "The top layer on an engineered wood floor is made up entirely of solid wood (all of our floors have an oak top layer), which is bonded to a layer of incredibly strong plywood beneath and a stabilising counter layer. This layered design balances out the tensions in the wood and in turn prevents the wood from bending or swelling in areas of changing moisture, such as the kitchen."

“Engineered wood offers the best stability, due to its multi-layered construction," agrees Inga Morris-Blincoe, general manager at Lifestyle Floors. "This means that even when temperature and humidity vary with seasons or household activities, the floor will experience only minimal expansion and contraction when compared to solid wood floors. This makes engineered wood one of the most durable flooring types available.” 

Opt for a lacquered finish in busy kitchens

While the experts tend to agree that engineered wood flooring is by far the better option for kitchen floors, the kind of finish you opt for will also play a part in how long it stays looking good and how much effort you have to put in when it comes to its upkeep.

"In high traffic areas such as a kitchen you may want to choose a lacquered surface, as it is easier to clean," says Inga Morris-Blincoe. "Lacquer also reflects more light, so may be ideal for smaller or darker rooms. However, an oiled floor can bring out the natural grain and colour of the floor, which you may prefer even though it will require more maintenance in the form of the regular reapplication of the oil finish."  

Natalie Mudd also recommends a lacquered finish if durability is high on your list of priorities for your new floor. "For a kitchen floor, you may want to opt for a matt lacquer surface finish which will give a slightly tougher, more resilient finish," she says. "However, an oiled surface finish is the better option if you plan to sand or treat your wood flooring in the future.”  

Choose a pale, simple wood floor in small kitchens 

After small kitchen ideas to make the space feel bigger? The answer could lie in your choice of flooring — some will make the room feel more spacious than it really is more than others.

"Keep your flooring more streamlined — straight planks work well and can have the effect of making a space seem larger than it actually is," explains Natalie Mudd. "Smaller kitchens or galley styles work particularly well with straight wooden planks, which will add a sense of space and a smart finish to the room.” 

The colour of the wood flooring you choose should also be given careful consideration — not only does it need to complement the shades you have used elsewhere in the space, on walls and units, for example, but it can also have an effect on how big the room seems.

“When it comes to choosing a wood floor, it is important to consider the overall look you are hoping to achieve," says Inga. "A dark floor absorbs light, but feels warm and welcoming, whereas a light floor reflects light and can make a space feel bigger." 

Good pale wood species include ash, maple and beech — and oak comes in all kinds of shades. 

"For a traditional feel that creates an airy and Scandi-style feel, opt for light coloured woods such as beech or ash," suggests Craig Smith, merchandising manager, at Flooring Superstore.

Go for parquet flooring to add visual interest

There is a huge interest in parquet and herringbone floors right now — and the kitchen is one spot where its popularity seemed to have hit its peak.

Not only will parquet add character and depth to the space but, due to its zig-zagging pattern, it is great at hiding dirt too. It isn't just solid wood flooring that is available as parquet or in herringbone and chevron designs — engineered timber floors come in this design too, as do many vinyl, porcelain and laminate wood look-a-likes. 

"Parquet engineered wood flooring designs, including herringbone and chevron, are hugely popular in kitchens since they add contrast and interest to otherwise straight sight lines," explains Natalie Mudd. "Parquet flooring looks particularly stunning in larger kitchens with a central island which breaks up the floor space."

Consider vinyl as a cheaper, practical wood alternative

Although wood flooring can be used in kitchens and using an engineered product lessens the chance of movement, for those concerned about humidity, moisture and spills causing damage to their timber floor, it could be an idea to consider vinyl flooring instead. 

There are now many types of vinyl flooring available, in a huge range of patterns, colours and designs and, like engineered timber, they are suitable for use over underfloor heating too. Some of the wood-effect vinyls are very realistic — particularly those with slightly textured surfaces.

“A less expensive option to a solid or engineered wood floor is to choose a vinyl with a wood effect finish," says Inga. "Vinyl is water resistant and works equally well in large and small kitchens. It’s straightforward to lay onto a clean, smooth, dry subfloor. 

"For extra comfort select a design with a woven textile backing. This is not only comfortable underfoot but increases its durability. As well as being simple to clean and maintain vinyl is generally available in widths from 2m to 4m which means that there is little wastage."

Vinyl flooring can cost as little as £20-£25/m2 in sheet form or around £30-£65m2 for luxury vinyl tile (LVT).

Don't discount laminate flooring in the kitchen

When it comes to wood flooring vs laminate, it is useful to bear in mind that laminate flooring really has come on hugely in the last 10 years or so and it can now be hard to distinguish it from real wood in some cases. 

"There are many laminates that mimic the knots and grain of real wood and look as good as the real thing," agrees Inga.

When it comes to choosing a laminate floor for kitchens, do take care that the product you have your eye on will be suitable in spaces with high moisture levels — look for one with a AC5 rating.

"If selecting laminate for a kitchen floor then choose a range that has a water repellent finish and a click installation system that will help prevent water ingress," advises Inga. "Laminate requires a specific type of underlay so ensure you consult a flooring professional prior to installation.” 

Another benefit of laminate is that it comes with a much lower price tag than either solid or engineered wood floors. Laminate starts from just £6/m² rising up to £25/m² or £60/m² for top-of-the-range products. Engineered wood flooring, on the other hand, costs from £30/m² but can easily cost more than £150/m².

Just what is engineered wood flooring, aside from now being one of the most popular options chosen by those installing a new floor in their homes?

With so many different types of flooring on offer it can be a tricky task to decide which one will be right for your home, both in terms of practical features as well as aesthetics. 

Here, we take a more in depth look at engineered wood flooring. While it might be beautiful to look at and warm underfoot, how does it differ from solid wood flooring, is it a good option for kitchens and bathroom and how much does it cost?

We have all the answers to these questions, along with plenty more information so you can be sure that you are choosing the right products for your needs as well as for your interior design scheme. 

What is engineered wood flooring?

First things first, what is engineered flooring and how does it differ from other types of wood flooring?

"Engineered wood consists of a high-density fibreboard (HDF) or plywood core. The core layers bond together with extreme pressure and glue, for added durability" explains Craig Smith from Flooring Superstore. "A solid wood veneer then covers the base. This means that, rather than a printed image (as with laminate flooring), engineered wood has a truly authentic look and feel of real wood. This top layer can vary in thickness – typically anywhere between two and six millimetres."

This is quite different to solid wood flooring, which is made from solid pieces of timber, cut into planks.

What are the pros and cons of engineered wood flooring?

So why opt for (or avoid) engineered flooring for your home? If you are wondering how to choose engineered wood flooring, here we look at the advantages and disadvantages of this material so you can decide whether it is suitable for the space you have in mind.

Pros of engineered wood flooring:

• Superior stability: The multiple layers that make up engineered wood flooring make it far more structurally stable when compared to solid wood, meaning it is less likely to warp, twist or lift in humid or moist conditions.
• Cost effective: Engineered wood flooring can be a cheaper option than solid wood flooring. That said, it is important to note that this really does depend on the wood species you are opting for and its quality. For instance engineered oak can be far more expensive than solid oak.
• Attractive: Looks-wise, you can expect the same warmth and character from engineered wood floors as you would from solid thanks to the real wood top layer. Plus they come in a range of styles and finishes, including parquet. 
• Easy to clean: Unlike tiled floors, with grout lines, or stain-prone carpets, engineered wood floors are easy to hoover and wipe clean.
• Compatible with underfloor heating: Assuming the wood is allowed to fully acclimatise before installation, engineered flooring is the perfect partner to UFH.
• Easy to install: Boards usually come with tongue-and-groove edges and are designed to be laid as a floating floor over a number of different sub-floors. This can often be undertaken on a DIY basis as no nailing or gluing will be required.

Cons of engineered wood flooring: 

• Prone to damage: Just like solid wood floors, furniture, high heels and other sharp objects can scratch and dent engineered wood flooring.
• Not as long-lasting as solid flooring: Unlike solid wood flooring, there is a limit to the number of times engineered boards can be sanded and refinished as the solid wood top layer is thinner.
• Expensive compared to laminate: When compared to laminate flooring and some types of floor tiles, such as ceramic, engineered wood can seem pricey.
• Not the best for bathrooms: Although you can, in theory, use engineered flooring in high-moisture areas, prolonged exposure to humidity and water will cause damage.

How is engineered wood flooring installed?

Many DIYers like to familiarise themselves with how to fit an engineered wood floor so that they can save on labour costs by doing it themselves — and for many people this is a perfectly viable option. 

In most cases, engineered floor boards come complete with tongue-and-groove edges and are designed to be laid as a floating floor, meaning they need no nailing or gluing. 

The good news for renovators is that they can be laid over most subfloors, including concrete and existing floors such as tile, linoleum and even old timber floors. Should you be fitting your floor over a concrete subfloor, it is wise to use a 0.2mm polyethylene film as a moisture barrier. This prevents moisture in the subfloor coming into contact with the new floor. 

A word of extreme caution here. Engineered flooring must be acclimatised to the room it is being fitted in before installation. Boards should be kept, lying flat, in their sealed boxes for at least 48 hours, in a room heated to a temperature of at least 18°C and on a floor surface temperature of at least 15°C.

Is engineered wood flooring suitable for kitchens?

The best flooring for kitchens needs to be practical, durable and beautiful. It also helps if it is stain- and heat-resistant. 

Engineered wood can make a great kitchen flooring, but as we mentioned previously, it can be damaged by sharp objects and it does have its limits when it comes to the amount of moisture it can withstand. 

"Though this flooring can be used in a kitchen, this is under the conditions that spillages are cleaned up immediately to prevent altering the appearance of the floor, and to maintain that natural essence," says Craig Smith at Flooring Superstore. "Because a ketchup stain doesn’t always compliment even the highest quality wood flooring."

Can you use engineered wood flooring for bathrooms?

Again, this really comes down to how much time and effort you want to give over to looking after your engineered floor. There are certainly better options when it comes to bathroom flooring, such as floor tiles and LVT. 

"There is a debate that surrounds whether you can use engineered wood in a bathroom," says Craig Smith. "We advise that all spills are cleaned up immediately to mitigate the risk of water damage. Whilst this is easy to do in a kitchen, it’s much less practical in a bathroom, which is why we don't consider it one of the best bathroom flooring options.”

Is engineered wood flooring compatible with UFH?

Engineered wood flooring is a great option for those fitting underfloor heating and a safer bet than solid wood flooring.

"While wooden floors are suitable for underfloor heating, we always recommend using engineered wood for your wooden flooring with a UFH system," explains Jo Snell, Self-Build Manager at Nu-Heat"Engineered wood gives the same effect as solid hardwood but with the added benefits of strength and durability once it is laid.

"The recommended board width of the engineered wood when going over underfloor heating is 150mm," continues Jo. 

In addition, an expansion gap of around 15mm should be left around the room to account for any expansion and contraction and, when heating up the floor for the first time, this must be done slowly. Finally, be sure to ask your supplier for your floor's maximum base/surface temperature and let your underfloor heating installer know. 

How much does engineered wood flooring cost?

The price you end up paying for your engineered wood floor will very much depend on the species of wood you opt for, its quality and the quantity you require. 

As a guide, expect to see starting prices of around £30/m², easily rising up to £90/m² or more.

Wood flooring vs laminate — this is a surprisingly common dilemma faced by those fitting new flooring into their homes. Both have advantages and disadvantages and knowing what these are will help when it comes to making the right decision.

While there are, of course, many different types of flooring to choose from, both wood flooring and laminate tend to be popular with homeowners searching for a low-maintenance, easy-to-fit and stylish option.

That said, the two flooring materials are actually quite different. In this handy guide, we take a look at the good and bad points of each, the associated costs and exactly what you can expect from your selected material.

Wood flooring vs laminate: Is one better than the other?

There are many different wood flooring ideas out there, as well as a wide range of laminates. These differ in the types of application they are suitable for, their quality, price, appearance and how they are designed to be laid.

This means that even once you have decided between wood flooring or laminate flooring, you will still need to ensure that the option you go for within these categories is right for you. 

Before we get into the pros and cons of wood and laminate flooring, it will help if you consider the following:

• What is your budget? Having a figure in mind of what you are prepared to spend on your new flooring will help whittle down the options.
• Where is your flooring being fitted? Some products will not be suitable for areas exposed to high moisture or humidity levels.
• What is the overall style of your home? Think about the looks you like in order to narrow down your options.
• What kind of space is the flooring being used in? Is it a high traffic area or a room that is only used occasionally? 

Once you have determined what you need, you can approach shopping for your new floor knowing which products will work for you and which most definitely won't.

What is the difference between solid and engineered wood flooring? 

There are so many different types of wood flooring out there that it can actually be quite daunting when faced with the task of choosing the right one. 

Before we get into discussing the pros and cons of wood flooring, it is important to understand the difference between solid wood flooring and engineered wood flooring. 

• Solid wood flooring: This flooring comes in boards made from one solid piece of wood. They often have tongue-and-groove edges so boards fit together easily. It is also possible to buy solid wood floors without this tongue-and-groove edge. These are nailed down into your floor joists and give a more rustic, authentic look.
• Engineered wood flooring: Engineered floors are made up of lots of layers, sandwiched together. There is a solid hardwood top layer (the thickness of which will vary depending on the quality of the product), bonded to several thinner layers of softwood, plywood or recycled wood.

Both these types of wooden flooring are great options, sharing the benefit of being suitable over underfloor heating. Whichever you choose, bear in mind that their advantages very much depends on the timber you choose, with hardwoods being more resistant to damage and dents than softwoods. 

What are the advantages of wood flooring?

• Can be sanded and refinished to get rid of dents and damage (note that engineered wooden flooring can usually only be sanded once or twice, depending on the thickness of the top layer)
• Massive range of wood species, colours and textures available for all interior design schemes
• Easy to clean 
• Gives rooms a real character boost
• Can be fitted on a DIY basis
• Suitable for use with underfloor heating

What are the disadvantages of wood flooring?

Of course, just as with any flooring type, there are some downsides to wooden floors. Again, it is important to realise that some of these will be more of an issue when choosing a cheaper product and others will be particular to either engineered or solid flooring.

Cons of solid wood flooring:

• Solid wood flooring can twist and warp (be aware that engineered wood flooring can also be prone to this to a lesser extent). Ensure both types are properly acclimatised before installation to avoid the problem
• If solid wood boards need nailing down, it can be a tricky DIY task
• Some hardwood solid and engineered timber flooring can be very expensive (far more so than laminate) 
• Softwood boards can easily be dented by sharp objects
• Unsuitable for wet rooms and shower rooms

What is laminate flooring?

Don't confuse laminate flooring with wood flooring — the wood effect you see is just a top layer featuring a photographic image. 

"Laminate is made up of a number of layers:  A base layer that provides stability and prevents warping, a core layer that gives strength and flexibility, a décor layer that shows off the design, and the protective layer (a clear melamine resin) that creates a tough durable finish that is resistant to deep scratches and gouging," explain the experts at Lifestyle Floors. 

Laminate flooring comes with an AC rating. This indicates how strong and durable it is. The higher the number, the more durable the product. 

What are the advantages of laminate flooring?

Laminate flooring has come on in leaps and bounds in recent years, and where it was once seen as a bit of a quick fix or for those on a very tight budget, it is now a viable choice for anyone after a long-lasting and low-maintenance floor covering, providing you buy a good quality product.

"Laminate flooring is an old faithful in the flooring world," says Craig Smith, Merchandising Manager at Flooring Superstore. "Laminate is a go-to for a great flooring that does the job. It’s the perfect cost-effective alternative to real wood flooring."

So, what benefits can you expect if you opt for laminate as opposed to wood flooring?

Pros of laminate flooring:

• Very durable (opt for one with a high AC rating — AC5 is a good bet)
• Affordable
• Quick and easy to install
• Suitable for use over underfloor heating
• Waterproof products available
• Large range of wood, stone and tile effects 
• Easy to clean and maintain

Cons of laminate flooring:

• Can't be sanded or refinished if damage occurs
• Can sometimes become slippery if wet, especially if you choose one with a low AC rating
• Can lack the charm and warmth offered by wood flooring so not always suitable for classic or traditional interiors. "Although the appearance is similar to wood and manufacturing techniques have come a long way, you can tell when up close that laminate flooring is not real wood," says Craig Smith. "It does not have the same depth or character as wood flooring."

What is the best flooring for bathrooms, wood or laminate?

When it comes to choosing bathroom flooring, although both wood and laminate can, in theory, be used, it pays to do your research on the suitability of the products you are interested in. 

When looking at the suitability of wood flooring in the bathroom, engineered flooring wins hand down every time over solid. It is more stable and far less prone to movement under humid and moist conditions. That said, if you are looking for flooring for a family bathroom where lots of splashes and spills are expected, you will be better off opting for a hard flooring type such as tile or stone.

One of the most common questions by those on the hunt for bathroom flooring is 'Is laminate waterproof?' Although many people consider laminate as a bathroom flooring option, do bear in mind that not all laminate will be suitable — you need to choose waterproof laminate. With these products, the joints between the boards or tiles is given a water repellent coating and the boards will usually be made from 'swell resistant' materials. 

In short, providing water isn't left to pool for any period of time on either laminate or engineered flooring, they can be used in bathrooms. However, if you are concerned, you may well be better off opting for luxury vinyl flooring, tiles or natural stone instead. 

Is wood flooring more expensive than laminate?

What you pay for your wood or laminate flooring will obviously very much depend on the type of product you opt for, its quality and how much you require. 

Obviously buying reclaimed wood flooring or a specialist type of timber will cost much more than if you were to opt for one of the cheaper laminates around. That said, overall, wood flooring will cost more than laminate.

"The cost of wood flooring, especially hardwood flooring, is the most common reason people choose other types," says Craig Smith. "It can be expensive compared to different flooring options, including laminate flooring."

In order to get an idea of the kind of costs you can expect, take a look at the following:

• Solid timber flooring costs: Between £35/m² - £120/m²
• Engineered wood flooring costs: From £30/m² up to £90/m² or more
• Reclaimed wood flooring costs: From £40/m² for unrestored boards up to £350/m² for antique hardwoods, finished to a high standard. 
• Laminate flooring costs: From £6/m², up to £25/m², or as high as £60/m² for top quality products

Been wondering about wood flooring costs? Wonder no more — our guide is here to explain all. We've been chatting to experts in the field to ensure you know exactly what to expect when purchasing new wooden floors, whether you are after something rustic and textured or sleek and modern.

There are many different types of wood flooring and not only does each come with its own set of pros and cons and distinct characteristics, but they also vary wildly when it comes to the price tags they carry. 

Thankfully, such is the breadth of choice when it comes to wooden flooring, there really is something to suit all budgets, plus this is often a floor covering that can be laid on a DIY basis meaning those looking to cut costs even further can do so by rolling up their sleeves and getting stuck in. 

In this guide, we take a look at wood flooring costs from low to high and everything in between so that you can be sure the look you love is within your reach. We also suggest some lower cost alternatives to wood floors that are practical as well as thrifty. 

How much will your wood flooring cost?

In this guide, we'll be looking at the costs involved not only with bringing you wood flooring ideas to life, but also those often overlooked extras, such as installation and underlay.

We'll also take a look at the prices you might be quoted to restore an old wooden floor should you be lucky enough to be renovating property with original timber flooring. 

Your choice of wood flooring will play a huge role in defining the overall look of your interior spaces and as such you need to be completely happy with your choice before making your final decision. While appearance is likely to be one of the main influences behind your choice, so too will costs.

So, just what are the factors that will influence how much you will pay for wood flooring? It is worth bearing in mind that choosing solid boards over engineered tends to be a little more expensive. Likewise, opting for a hardwood over a softwood will also push up prices. If you have your heart set on a restored antique hardwood, get ready for costs to skyrocket, but if you are happy with a look-a-like wood floor, made from something like laminate or vinyl, you may well find you have some money left over.

Here, we take a look at each type of wood flooring separately to give you a clearer idea of what to expect.

How much does solid wood flooring cost?

Solid wood flooring, made from one solid piece of wood as opposed to thinner layers of timber as with engineered flooring, comes in many different forms, from boards with tongue-and-groove edges to allow them to easily fit together, to those that are designed to be nailed down into floor joists.

Solid flooring comes in all kinds of thicknesses and materials — with thicker boards being the best option. It is also possible to choose from finished, unfinished, stained, waxed, oiled or lacquered boards. 

Solid wood flooring does tend to cost more than engineered, but only marginally and this will very much depend on the material and style you are opting for. It is useful to bear in mind that many people see the extra costs as worth it when it comes to longevity and appearance — solid wood can be sanded and refinished many times more than engineered.

That said, it may not be the best flooring for kitchens — engineered timber tends to be more structurally stable when exposed to humid and moist conditions. 

“Investing in solid wood flooring may seem like a large expense initially," says Craig Smith, Merchandising Manager at Flooring Superstore. "However, solid wood flooring is also renowned for adding to the value to a property and, thanks to its robust nature, is built to withstand the test of time."

Expect to pay between approx. £35/m² - £120/m².

What does engineered wood flooring cost?

Engineered wood flooring is really popular — attractive, available in a massive range of wood species and easy to lay on a DIY basis.

Engineered wood flooring is comprised of layers — a top layer of solid hardwood that is glued to several thinner layers of plywood or recycled wood.

“Engineered wood features a solid wood veneer — so looks like the real thing," explains Craig Smith. "However, the base is made up of cross-ply layers glued on top of each other which reflects in a much cheaper price point."

Quality (and cost) is often dependent on the thickness of the top layer — the thicker the better. Obviously the type of wood you opt for will have an effect on costs too. It is also worth bearing in mind that finishes such as 'brushed and oiled' will often be more pricey than simple lacquered or unfinished. Herringbone or parquet engineered flooring also costs more — expect to pay between £10-£40 more per m2.

Although it is a little cheaper than solid wood flooring, there are actually many advantages to be enjoyed by selecting this option.

"It boats additional benefits such as better stability and resistance to variations in temperature and moisture — engineered wood out-performs solid in terms of versatility and room suitability and is often considered better value for money," says Craig.

Prices really do vary but tend to start from around £35/m², rising to beyond £100/m².

Does hardwood flooring cost much more than softwood?

Hardwood flooring is more expensive (in the majority of cases) than softwood — but it is also durable, hardwearing and low maintenance.

Hardwoods comes from deciduous trees (the trees that lose their leaves seasonally). Hardwoods commonly used for flooring include oak, walnut, mahogany and teak.

Softwoods come from evergreen trees. Pine and fir are amongst the most commonly used softwoods for flooring. Softwoods can be a great, lower cost option in rooms that don't see much footfall – for example bedrooms – as they are more prone to damage from heels or sharp objects.

To give you a rough idea, GoodHome Lulea Natural Oak Solid wood flooring from B&Q costs £45/m2 compared to their GoodHome Granna Natural Pine Solid wood flooring which costs £30/m2.

Is parquet flooring expensive?

Hardwood parquet flooring is one of the most expensive options, costing from £75/m2. 

That said, in recent years it has become extremely popular once more. Comprised of small blocks of solid timber, laid in a pattern, authentic parquet flooring is pretty complicated to fit on a DIY basis.  

Many people now choose to use engineered wood flooring in a herringbone pattern as an alternative, or a material such as vinyl, to replicate the look. 

How much does reclaimed wood flooring cost?

Antique reclaimed wood flooring is one of the most expensive options here — it can easily come with price tags of up to £350/m² and beyond. That said, unrestored reclaimed boards can be picked up for around £40/m2.

Are wood flooring look-a-likes a cheaper option?

Lower costs are just one of the reasons many people decide to opt for wood flooring alternatives — they can also be really practical and easy to lay on a DIY basis too. From types of vinyl flooring, to laminate, these look-a-like products can be really convincing.  

“Luxury Vinyl Tiles, also known as Click Vinyl Flooring or LVT, are renowned for the ability to imitate high-end flooring designs to an impeccable standard," says Craig Smith. "Built with multiple vinyl layers, this robust flooring not only looks amazing but also boasts excellent water-resistance."

That said, while LVT is a highly practical option, it will not always be cheaper than wooden flooring, with prices from £35 - £65/m²+ to be expected. 

“Laminate is another great option for cheap flooring and is popular for being practical, budget- friendly and extremely versatile in design. Thanks to its hyper-realistic print layer and authentic feeling bevels and grains, laminate can replicate the look of real wood flooring or popular tiled designs to exacting detail. At a fraction of the cost of hard wood, laminate is also cheaper and quicker to install, making it a great choice for those looking to keep up with the latest trends on a tight budget." 

Laminate flooring costs from £6/m², up to £50/m² for high quality varieties.

What should I pay for underlay?

Don't forget to budget for extras such as underlay. Underlay is more commonly used with types of flooring that are laid as floating floors, such as engineered wood flooring, as opposed to solid floors that are fixed directly to the subfloor. 

Underlay varies in price (and quality) but can be purchased for as little as £1/m². However, if you want good soundproofing or are after an underlay with a low tog value (good for those with underfloor heating who want to allow heat through) you will need to pay a little more — expect prices between £2.50/m² - £9/m².

What does wood flooring installation cost?

Buying a wood floor is not the only cost to consider — you will also need to factor in having it fitted. 

Some people choose to fit their wooden floor on a DIY basis which obviously saves on installation costs — bear in mind that getting to grips with how to fit an engineered wood floor is usually considerably simpler than laying a solid wooden floor.

Should you decide to call in the professionals, you can expect to be faced with costs starting from £20/m² for the installation of both solid and engineered boards. Parquet flooring is trickier to install and therefore starting prices of £30/m² - £35/m² are common.

These installation costs are not likely to include extras such as floor levelling or door trimming. Door trimming costs approximately £20 per door.

How much does floor sanding cost?

If you have an original wooden floor that could do with a little love to bring it back to its best, you will probably need to have it sanded and refinished. 

Sanding floorboards is a job which many DIYers try their hand at and is a great way to get your floorboards looking shipshape once again. 

Expect to pay around £34 per day to hire a floor sander and remember to factor in the cost of an edge sander too, which you are also likely to need, plus extra sanding sheets. HSS Hire charge £51.19 per day for their Floor and Edge Sander Hire Pack.

If you were to call in the professionals to restore your floor, you are likely to be looking at costs of around £20/m² for sanding and from £25/m² for sanding and refinishing. 

Reclaimed wood flooring is a striking and very beautiful choice for all kinds of homes, including those with contemporary interior design schemes, where its character and warmth can be even more pronounced against a sleek, minimalist backdrop. 

That said, as with all types of flooring, it is important to purchase reclaimed wooden flooring from a reputable source, to select the right style for your home and to be aware of the common mistakes people make when specifying this kind of floor. 

Our guide explains exactly what a reclaimed wood floor is, where you can buy one from and how much it is likely to cost you to ensure that you choose the right product for your home.  

What is Reclaimed Wood Flooring?

When looking at the types of wood flooring around, many people consider reclaimed wood as an alternative to new solid or engineered flooring, whether that is because they are after a sustainable alternative or because they are drawn by the history and character that these floors offer.

As the name suggests, reclaimed wood flooring is made from wood that has already been used for another purpose or lifted from another property where it was perhaps redundant. It is also sometimes called recycled wood flooring and may have been, in a previous life, anything from a piece of furniture to a building or even a boat or trailer. 

"The wood is salvaged from the reclamation site, be it a historical building, warehouse or colonial home, before being transformed into a reclaimed floor," explains Robert Walsh, founder of Woodworks and the Ted Todd Group.

In order to turn old wood into floorboards, nails are removed and the boards are then sawn, sanded and profiled into floorboards that are suitable for 21st-century standards. Depending on the supplier, they are usually available with tongue and groove edges that make laying easy and come in a range of finishes, from waxed to scrubbed.

Where Can You Buy Reclaimed Wood Flooring?

There are several well-known suppliers specialising in reclaimed wood flooring, including Woodworks by Ted Todd, The Main Company, Havwoods and Lawson's Yard. All these suppliers will tell you exactly where the wood has been sourced from, its condition, how it should be installed and whether or not it can be laid over underfloor heating.

It is also possible to buy reclaimed wood flooring from salvage yards. In this case, boards or parquet blocks or will often have always been used as flooring and are commonly sold in their reclaimed state, ready to be restored. This is obviously a cheaper option although work will be required to get them up to scratch as boards often feature cracks, painted sections and nails. 

Reclamation yards also often stock resawn boards — perhaps made from roof joists or similar. These can be purchased in their raw state, ready to be finished at home and may not always come with tongue and groove edges. 

There are many benefits to reclaimed wood flooring, not least the character it will bring to your home. However, it is vital that you know exactly what you are buying before parting with any money, Ask your supplier:

• How will the boards be supplied? Ready for installation or in their reclaimed state?
• How should they be fitted? Do they have tongue and groove edges or will they need nailing into place?
• Can they be fitted over underfloor heating? Some can, some can't. 
• What condition are they in? If buying from a reclamation yard, aim to visit to inspect the boards. 
• Where was the wood sourced from?

Is Reclaimed Wood Flooring a Good Option?

There are many reasons why reclaimed wood flooring is a brilliant choice, with its unique character being amongst the most obvious. 

"Reclaimed wood flooring (or antique flooring when over 100 years old) is incredibly hard-wearing, as only the best materials would do in historical projects, with the age of the wood meaning it is less likely to move than newer timber, therefore providing longevity and preventing the need to repurchase in a few years’ time," explains Robert Walsh. 

"With all this in mind, the history that reclaimed wood provides creates a desirable, unique look that is almost impossible to replicate in new floors — every piece will tell a different story and make your project truly unique.”

Reclaimed wood flooring is also a very sustainable choice. "Using reclaimed woods massively reduces the number of trees that need to be harvested to make new wood flooring," says Robert Walsh. "By using the reclaimed and recycled wood, we are able to reduce future deforestation, trap more carbon in our projects and increase the lifecycle of one of the most durable building materials available to 100 years or even more."

Can Reclaimed Wood Flooring Be Laid Over Underfloor Heating?

Some reclaimed wood flooring can be used over underfloor heating, while other types are unsuitable. Your supplier will be able to advise you so do check before ploughing ahead with installation. 

How Much Does Reclaimed Wood Flooring Cost?

This very much depends on the condition of the flooring and the state in which it is delivered in. 

You can expect to pay around £40/m2 for boards in the state they were reclaimed in from a salvage yard but up to £350/m2 or more for antique hardwoods such as oak that have been finished to a very high standard.

For reclaimed and restored softwood flooring, expect prices of around between £70-£150/m2.

Wood flooring ideas are a great way of bringing a timeless look to any interior. This versatile material has been used for centuries and new, contemporary styles just keep coming. 

Not only are there an array of different types of wood flooring, but now there are also tile, vinyl and other wood-effect products that replicate the natural look, with added benefits of durability or cost-effectiveness, respectively. 

Find your perfect style with our favourite styles below, with loads of room inspiration and industry expert advice on how to make the right choice.

The Latest Wood Flooring Ideas and Styles

"We’re seeing a variety of floor colours this season," says Darwyn Ker, managing director of Woodpecker Flooring. "The natural, more traditional, styles are as popular as ever and the lighter, fresher styles are always a firm favourite. But there is more demand for the darker, richer and characterful styles too."

"Herringbone and chevron are an enduring trend because both styles are timeless," adds Richard Skeoch, director at Hyperion Tiles. "They can instantly create a stylish floor in any room in the home. 

"These styles can also help to open up a space, making the room appear larger than it actually is, which is ideal if you’re dealing with a compact room. In terms of colours, light to mid-wood tones are leading the way."

1. Invest in Engineered Wood for a Quality, Natural Finish

Essentially a veneer of real wood atop layers of durable and stable thin wood, engineered wood flooring is a fantastic option for those with a desire for a robust material that has the distinctive look and feel of solid wood. 

"A solid oak floor is far more likely to expand or contract when subjected to changes in the surrounding atmosphere," explains Simon Myatt, specification consultant at Havwoods.

"In the winter months we close the doors and turn the heating on which dries the air out and the relative humidity of the air reduces, this in turn means that your wood floor will lose moisture and as the moisture content of the floor drops it will start to shrink and you can expect gaps between boards. There are ways to counteract this with humidifiers but it’s not a solution many of us want to accept."

Engineered wood flooring is also a better choice over underfloor heating. Install engineered wooden flooring with underfloor heating in kitchens, living spaces and dining rooms for an high-quality finish to your project.

2. Paint Existing Wooden Floors

If you're lucky enough to be one of those renovators who has pulled back a garish carpet to find wood flooring hidden beneath, don't you dare pull it up! Older wooden floors tend to be stronger and have years of character imbedded within the grain. 

Revive wood floors by sanding back old varnish or paint. After that, you're able to modernise with a white wash, protect with an oil, or revarnish a bold new colour. 

A similar effect can be created by painting floorboards, as shown here. The homeowner chose a mid-grey tone to complement the pale walls and exposed red brick fireplace.

3. Keep Wood Flooring Choices Sustainable 

For homes with eco-priorities, investigate and interrogate where your flooring has been sourced and how it is manufactured.

"With our environmental impact continuing to be at the forefront of where we’re heading as designers, manufacturers and consumers, many who are striving for ‘carbon negative creations’, we anticipate innovations coming through in health and wellbeing, people-specific design and also inclusivity, this will all play a huge role in the future of the construction industry,” explains Havwoods' Simon Myatt.

"Choose a floor with an FSC® or PEFC certification," advises Woodpecker Flooring's Darwyn Ker. "These accreditations confirm that the wood and materials used within the flooring has been sourced from responsibly managed, sustainable forests and is certified to the highest standards."

Wood eco flooring options include cork, bamboo and reclaimed timber. 

4. Go Scandi with White-Washed Wood Tones

Inspire a relaxing living room atmosphere with light-toned or pale wood finish.

This Scandinavian-esque look can be warmed up with a soft rug and rich wall paint colours or pared-back with minimal finishes to encourage the idea of a larger room. 

"Wooden floors give adaptability to space over a long period because finishes can be 'freshened up' and even be changed in colour completely over longer periods," adds Simon Myatt of Havwoods. 

5. Take Your Wood Flooring Outside

Capture the inside-outside aesthetic by continuing flooring from an interior room, such as an open-plan kitchen through glazed doors and out into the garden patio area. 

This look can be achieved by running wood flooring inside, with decking of a similar width, finish and colour outside. Importantly both wood flooring and decking should be laid in the same direction to create a sense of flow.

Alternatively, porcelain tiles would be best suited for this use, as some products can be used inside and out — coming with slip-resistant coatings and being able to withstand all types of weather.

6. Choose a Wood-Effect Tile in a Busy Kitchen

The cost of wood flooring can be prohibitive to many (prices for solid wood start at around £70m2) so for busy rooms like the kitchen, LVT flooring– luxury vinyl tile – is a fantastic alternative that is durable, but kinder on the wallet. 

Compare different products to get the best LVT quality you can for your budget, though, as some materials have better printing methods than others, creating repeats in the pattern and an unrealistic texture. 

7. Create as Rustic Feel with Wooden Flooring

For the best flooring for kitchens which is also charming and rustic, wood is ideal. New planks can be bought pre-treated with distressed finishes, and many vinyl and tile manufacturers also offer a 'lived-in' look for the other materials. 

Here, reclaimed wood-looking tiles have been fitted in a country-style shaker kitchen – complete with Belfast sink – painted in a contemporary dark blue. The combination of old and new styles is enchanting. 

8. Use Wood Flooring to Top Stair Treads

Avoid having too many types of wood in one place by continuing your wood flooring atop stair treads. 

While this home used reclaimed timber flooring from Bert and May, this can be achieved using LVT and tiles as well. 

9. Choose Your Grade Carefully

From rustic to smooth and contemporary, there are lots of looks which can be achieved with wood flooring, depending on the grade.

Glenn Ledger of Orlestone Oak provides his words of wisdom:  “There are usually three grades of floor that you can pick from – rustic, character and prime – and each grade has a different appearance. Rustic grade shows frequent knots, shakes (cuts in the timber) and filled areas; character grade has fewer knots than rustic grade and comes without the shakes and large areas of filler; and finally prime grade, which will have few or no knots."

10. Experiment with Different Styles in a Luxurious Bathroom

Can't decide between stone effect or a wood effect types of flooring? Why not create a stylish and unique space by mixing both together in a chevron pattern, as in this bathroom. 

Porcelain tile can realistically replicate both materials and is a durable and water-resistant option — ideal for both kitchen and bathroom flooring.

"Wood-effect porcelain tiles are made from a variety of natural materials, including very dense clay," explains Hyperion Tyles' Richard Skeoch. "Fired in a furnace together, porcelain is non-porous, making it a perfect addition to a kitchen and bathroom. It's highly resistant to wear too, when compared to other materials, such as real wood.

What is the Best Option for Wood Flooring? 

"When it comes to choosing a floor, it’s entirely dependent on your own lifestyle as to which style is best for you," advises Woodpecker Flooring's Darwyn Ker. 

"Solid wood is milled from one solid piece of timber, making it extremely robust. However that’s not to say it’s suited to everyone as it’s not compatible with underfloor heating and you have to be very careful with water spillages and varying room temperatures.

"Engineered wood consists of a real wood top layer and a cross-layered softwood and plywood core which minimises potential warping, expansion and contraction. This makes it more practical and versatile for the modern home and it’s compatible with underfloor heating too. 

"However as only the top layer is real wood, it can be more difficult to repair in comparison to solid wood but this is dependent on the extent of the damage as it’s not often you’ll need to re-sand a wood floor. In the instance that you do, you’re more limited with an engineered floor as it’s dependant on the thickness of the real wood top layer."

"Wood-effect porcelain kitchen and bathroom floor tiles are easy to clean and can withstand moisture," says Hyperion Tyles' Richard Skeoch. "You won't need to maintain them per se — a simple clean should keep them in top condition. Style-wise, you'll find there is a huge variety in terms of colours and patterns, which will replicate what you would expect to achieve in terms of style with a real wood floor."

What is the Cheapest Way to do Wood Flooring? 

The cheapest way to achieve a wood-effect floor is to use sheet laminate. However, while there are good products out there, this may not be the best material if you're looking for durability or an authentic look and feel. 

Cheaper cork flooring products will produce a natural, but unusual flooring style that is similarly budget-friendly. 

Is Engineered Wood Better Than Real Wood? 

"Engineered wood flooring is a great alternative to solid wood if you plan to install underfloor heating, and is more resilient to fluctuations in temperature and moisture," says Deputy Editor of Homebuilding & Renovating magazine, Michelle Guy.

"Engineered wood flooring is ideal for families as it’s a more affordable option in comparison to real wood and it can be available in a water-resistant style too," adds Darwym Ker.

There is now such a huge range of different types of wood flooring that it can be hard to know the difference between the variations on offer — or which one is best for you. 

Wood flooring is a hugely popular choice — and it is easy to understand why. Wood offers a charm and character to homes that can be hard to achieve with some other types of flooring. Even contemporary types of wood flooring can add a sense of warmth — something sometimes lacking in modern properties. 

Our guide to the types of wood flooring out there covers not only the different variations of timber flooring, but also look-a-like products, such as luxury vinyl tile and laminate.

We also discuss costs, longevity and how easy they are to lay and maintain.  

What is the Best Type of Wood Flooring?

There is no easy answer to this one — the type of wood flooring that works for one person won't necessarily suit another. 

The flooring you choose should be based on your budget, the room you are fitting it in and how much maintenance you are prepared to put into keeping your floor looking good. 

With that in mind, we discuss the various types of wooden floor available, along with the pros and cons of each. 

What Colour of Wooden Floor Should I Pick?

Before you start your search for the best types of wooden floor for you, consider the overall look you are aiming for in your home — there are many wooden floor colours to choose from and the shade you pick will have a huge effect on the final look and feel of your interior scheme. 

Light wood floors: Perfect for creating a fresh, contemporary look, light wood floors come in many shades. Choose from painted or stained floors in pale colours such as grey and white, or opt for a more natural finish. Timbers such as ash, beech and maple are all good choices if you want a pale wood floor.

On the downside, a light wood floor will show up dirt and damage so is best avoided in high traffic areas or if you have pets.  

Dark wood floors: Dark wood floors are great for both modern and classic schemes and even suit industrial-style interiors well. They conjure up a cosy feel with their rich tones and look brilliant paired with crisp white or muted neutrals.

Choose a stained wood floor or a naturally dark timber such as walnut.

Mid-tone and golden wood floors: Ideal for anyone after a warm, informal yet traditional feel in their home, golden wood floors can be achieved by picking a natural timber such as oak or oak-effect wood flooring. 

Solid Wood Flooring

As the name suggests, solid wood flooring is made from one solid piece of wood. It comes in many different forms, but is often shaped to have a tongue-and-groove edge so that boards fit together neatly. It is, however, also possible to buy solid wood floors without a tongue-and-groove edge. These are nailed down into existing joists and are often preferred by those after a more rustic, authentic look as the final finish is less perfect.

Solid wood flooring is available in various thicknesses from 15mm to 20mm, with the thicker boards being the most preferable. They are also available as finished or unfinished, stained, waxed or with a lacquer finish. 

Engineered Wood Flooring

Unlike solid wooden flooring, engineered floors are made up of multiple layers. These are made up of a top layer of solid hardwood (the thickness of which will vary depending on the product you choose), bonded to several more thin layers of plywood or recycled wood.

It comes in a huge range of thicknesses, widths, lengths and configurations but usually all variations feature a tongue-and-groove edge to make fitting simple.

(MORE: How to Choose Engineered Wood Flooring)

Solid vs Engineered Wood Flooring

Both solid and engineered wood flooring are suitable for installation over underfloor heating, although both should be properly acclimatised first. Although both can be fitted in kitchens and bathrooms, neither is recommended for use in areas that are likely to be exposed to considerable amounts of water, such as shower rooms or wet rooms.

(MORE: Kitchen Flooring Ideas)

In addition, the durability and longevity of both will depend on the timber you choose — hardwoods are more resistant to damage and dents than softwoods. The thickness you choose will also play a role in the durability of the floor in both cases. 

So, just what are the differences between solid and engineered wood flooring when it comes to durability, cost, ease of installation and maintenance? Here we take a look at the pros and cons of each type of flooring.

Pros of solid wood flooring:

• Can be sanded and refinished many times if damaged or stained
• Comes unfinished or pre-finished
• Huge range of species and therefore colours and textures available
• Ideal for a more authentic look
• Easy to clean

Cons of solid wood flooring:

• Not as stable as engineered wood flooring and can twist or warp
• Must be nailed down and is tricker to install for the DIYer
• Slightly more expensive than engineered flooring (although this will depend on the type of wood you opt for)
• Not recommended for installation over a concrete sub floor

Pros of engineered wood flooring:

• Simple to fit on a DIY basis
• Superior stability over solid wood
• Can be installed over both timber and concrete sub floors
• Slightly cheaper than solid wood flooring (savings can also be made installation)
• Easy to clean 

Cons of engineered wood flooring:

• Finished appearance 'too perfect' for some people
• Can only be sanded once or twice depending on thickness of solid wood layer — unlike solid timber which can be sanded three or more times
• Almost always sold pre-finished
• Can lack the 'sturdy' feel underfoot of solid wood flooring

(MORE: How to Fit an Engineered Wood Floor)

Parquet Wood Flooring

Parquet wood flooring is extremely popular — a staple in the most fashionable kitchens and living rooms all over the country at the moment.

Parquet is comprised of small blocks of solid timber, laid in a pattern — commonly herringbone, but any flooring design made up of smaller blocks will be referred to as a parquet design. 

As with solid hardwood boards, parquet flooring can be complex for DIYers to fit. Many people, and particularly those on a tight budget, replicate the look of parquet flooring with luxury vinyl tiles.

Laminate Flooring

Although commonly thought of as a type of wooden flooring, laminate flooring is actually not wood at all. 

Laminate floors are made from compressed fibreboard planks with a top layer featuring a photographic wood-effect image. On top of this is a clear protective coating. 

On the plus side, laminate flooring is considerably more affordable than both solid or engineered wood flooring — although spending a little more will get you a far more convincing and natural-looking product. 

Laminate can be used pretty much anywhere in the home but if you plan on using it in a bathroom, check that you are buying a water- and humidity-resistant fibreboard-based laminate. 

Boards with bevelled edges and rustic details such as knots tend to be amongst the more realistic products.

On the downside, laminate flooring cannot be sanded or refinished if damaged. 

Wood Effect Vinyl Flooring

Many people looking at the different types of wooden flooring decide to opt for an imitation wood flooring instead of going for the real thing. 

There are many reasons for this, including cost benefits and maintenance issues.

One of the most popular types of imitation wood flooring is luxury vinyl tiles (LVT).

But what exactly is LVT flooring and why is it so popular as a flooring choice these days?

LVT is comprised of several layers, including a bottom layer that is fixed to your sub-floor, a high definition photographic layer and a top protective layer, usually made from PVC. 

Because LVT is made up of individual tiles, planks or shaped pieces, as opposed to vinyl sheet, it is possible to recreate the look of parquet and realistic wooden floor boards.

It is extremely durable too — plus it is suitable for use with underfloor heating. 

Wood-Effect Tiles

Porcelain wood-effect tiles are a popular choice with those looking to fit wooden flooring in their bathrooms or shower rooms. Unlike wood floors, porcelain will not warp, rot or move when exposed to moisture and temperature changes — and it works very well with underfloor heating too. 

How Much Does Wood Flooring Cost?

Types of wooden flooring vary considerably in cost. Influencing factors include the materials you opt for and who you get to fit your flooring. At the bottom of the price scale lies laminate, while hardwood parquet lies at the top.

• Solid wood flooring costs from approx. £35/m² - £120/m²
• Engineered flooring costs from £30/m² but can go beyond £90/m²
• Engineered parquet costs from £75/m²
• Laminate flooring costs from £6/m², up to £25/m² for high qualityer £60/m²
• Porcelain tiles cost from £20/m²
• Laminate flooring costs from £6/m², up to £25/m² for high quality versions

CONTENT SUPPLIED BY STORIES FLOORING

If you like the look of solid wood flooring but your budget won’t stretch that far, then it is well worth considering engineered wood flooring.

Engineered wood flooring is a versatile and practical solution and offers the appearance of solid wood, while being more affordable and easier to install.

It’s durable, sustainable, needs little maintenance and is compatible with underfloor heating.

Here are four reasons you should consider engineered wood flooring for your home.

1. Design Options are Varied

With engineered wood flooring, you can choose from a range of timbers, effects and finishes to find an option that is perfect for your home’s aesthetic.

Available timbers include:

• Oak – provides a timeless natural effect
• Ash – light and chic, looks great in hand scraped finishes
• Beech – hardy and difficult to stain
• Walnut – highly resistant to light damage, boasts a deep warm colour
• Maple – a distinctive hardwood, known for its unique grain pattern

You can also choose from numerous finishes, including:

• Brushed – this effect gives the wood an aged appearance, and offers a natural look.
• Distressed – distressed finish floors have a rustic, antique feel. 
• Hand Scraped – with this technique, every plank is different, offering unique character
• Lacquered – this finish gives the floor a smooth, shiny appearance suitable for more contemporary homes. The lacquer stays on the surface, protecting against scuffs and scratches. 
• Oiled – the oil seeps through the wood, providing more thorough protection. Some floors are UV oiled to also protect against fading.

2. Installation is Simple

You can lay engineered wood flooring over many types of existing floor and can be installed on a DIY basis which is great if you are looking to keep costs under control. It’s also ready to walk on as soon as it has been laid.

Most engineered wood flooring comes pre-finished so you don’t need to wax it or oil it yourself. 

3. It’s a Low Maintenance Option

Unlike solid wood floors, engineered wood flooring simply requires a daily sweep, vacuum or dry mop to remove dirt and debris, with a flat-bottomed mop needed once a week. Always use a wood-safe cleaner and use a protector product every six months to keep the floor looking new.

Engineered wood floors can be sanded down and refinished when needed. The depth of the wood surface will determine how many times it can be sanded.

4. It’s Sustainable

Engineered wood floors are more sustainable than real wood. They require fewer raw materials, resulting in less waste and fewer trees being cut down. 

Look for options where the materials are from sustainable forests and are constructed using eco-friendly techniques.

For more information on choosing engineered wood flooring, contact Stories Flooring.

So what is engineered wood flooring and how does it differ from solid wood flooring?

Engineered flooring consists of a top layer of solid wood — the veneer. This ranges in thickness depending on the quality of the flooring, but is typically between 3-7mm, although thicknesses of up to 15mm are available. Underneath the veneer are several more layers of thin wood, all glued together to form a plywood-like sandwich base. 

These layers run at 90° to one another for stability, making them less prone to movement, caused by humidity, than solid boards.

What will it cost?

The quality and cost of engineered flooring varies and it is often a case of you get what you pay for, with some of the cheaper versions being made up of a very thin top layer of solid wood. Generally plank or one-strip designs are more expensive than two-strip, or three-strip wood floors as the surface layer is sawn from a single log.

Despite what many buyers expect, engineered flooring is not necessarily less expensive than solid. Designs with surface treatments – such as metallic finishes, stains, hand-scraped, bevelled and brushed finishes – tend to cost more.

Prices start from around £30/m² but can go beyond £90/m². The variety of wood you choose will also affect the price. Paying for quality in an investment and will increase the resale value of a home.

Why choose engineered wood flooring?

More and more people are choosing to fit engineered wooden flooring as opposed to solid timber floors — and there are many reasons for this decision.

Engineered flooring is available in an extremely wide range of timbers to suit any home, with various effects, such as ‘aged’ and ‘sun bleached’, available. They are also suitable for laying over many types of existing floor, such as concrete, unlike most solid boards. 

In addition, most engineered flooring now comes pre-finished, meaning no waxing, lacquering or oiling for you, and a floor that is ready to walk on as soon as it has been laid. Plus, it is simple to lay on a DIY basis, so labour costs are saved.

Furthermore, it's suitable with underfloor heating.

Which wood?

This really is down to personal choice more than anything else. However, some woods do tend to suit certain interior styles more than others. Although in recent years it has been the dark, exotic timbers such as walnut, jarrah and merbau that have been chosen by owners of contemporary homes, more recently lighter coloured woods such as ash or boards that have been given a white/silver finish have begun to rise in popularity.

Oak is a timber which can work equally well in traditional settings as it can in modern rooms, depending on the finish and tone it has been given, for example ‘brushed’. Timbers such as beech and maple work well in more country-style interiors.

How long will it last?

This very much depends on what kind of wear the floor sees and how thick the top layer of solid wood is. Guarantees vary from ten to 30 years. 

The number of times a floor can be sanded and refinished also varies — the manufacturers’ recommendations should be taken on this one. Some may recommend sanding no more than three times for thicknesses of 15mm. Generally, a professional sanding will remove around 0.5mm of the surface layer. However, bear in mind that some beautiful hardwood floors won’t ever have been sanded and that dents and scratches can add to their character.

You get what you pay for… The cheapest floors tend to have a very thin top layer – as thin as 0.6mm – a minimal number of veneers in the core and fewer finishing layers.

• The general rule is, the more layers the floor is made up of, the better.
• At the lower end of the market, boards have a three-ply construction, are around 1/4 inch thick in total, have a 1-2mm topwear layer, and around five finish coats.
• Next best are of five-ply construction, with a 3mm top layer, around seven finish coats, and a total thickness of ½ inch.
• The best quality floors are made of up to nine plies, have a 7mm plus top layer, have around nine finish coats and are a total thickness of approximately ¾ inch.

Key questions about engineered wood flooring answered

Boards are available in a whole host of finishes, from ‘brushed’ which highlights the texture of the grain, to ‘distressed’ which gives the wood a more vintage feel. In addition, some companies offer boards with bevelled edges. This is a good option for those worried that a new engineered floor may look a little too perfect and pristine in a period house. 

Surface treatments vary, too. Matt lacquers leave boards looking very natural, almost untreated, whilst oils bring out the grain of the wood, but will require a little more care and maintenance than lacquers. Satin lacquers add a sheen and tend to increase the durability of the wood.

In certain situations engineered flooring is not the best option. As with any wooden floor, engineered flooring – despite its resistance to movement caused by moisture, and however well treated it is – is best avoided in the bathroom, where it will be constantly subjected to a damp atmosphere and probably puddles of water from time to time. It is fine for use in cloakrooms, however.

Measure your room, then, to get the area in metres square, multiply the length by the width, and allow a small amount for wastage — around 10% should suffice. If your room is not square, it can be easier to measure it in sections then add these together to get the total area required.

There are several alternatives to engineered flooring, the most obvious being solid wood floors. These are available as plain planks that require either nailing or screwing and gluing down, or with tongue-and-groove edges. Most solid wood floors will, however, need to be laid on a subfloor as opposed to an existing floor. They can be refinished more times than engineered due to their solid nature.

Despite what many people think, laminate floors actually have nothing to do with wood flooring — they mimic wood’s appearance. Laminate floors are a photograph of wood which has been transferred onto a resin surface before being glued to fibreboard. Remember, laminates cannot be refinished.

Laying a solid wood floor is a job that can quite feasibly be carried out on a DIYbasis, but obviously not everyone has the time or inclination to do this. If you want to get someone else to lay it for you, you’ll need to ask either a builder or local carpenter or joiner to do the work. Some suppliers can also recommend specialist floor fitters.

When your flooring arrives, you must let it acclimatise to the room before it is laid. Some types of flooring should be left in their packaging while they acclimatise, but others need to be removed, so ask your supplier for details. The supplier will also be able to tell you how long you need to leave them — some only require 24 hours, others may need longer.

When you are laying a solid timber floor, it is best to lay it using a fixed method, as opposed to ‘floating’ (commonly used for engineered boards). This is because solid wood flooring has a higher tendency towards movement and needs to be fixed to the subfloor to avoid problems in the future. You can fix it to concrete, to the floor joists or to an existing timber floor.

If fixing to concrete:

• ensure the concrete is sound and level. If it’s not, then screwing a chipboard or plywood subbase on top, then nailing or gluing the new wood floor to it, is the best way forward.
• If you are fixing the floor directly to the concrete, gluing it down is the way to go. You might also take a look at some of the self-adhesive membranes out there, but beware, they are incredibly sticky and once the wood is stuck to the membrane, it is near-impossible to remove.

If you are fixing solid wood flooring to existing timber:

• nailing will be the best option. Although it is good to lay the new board at a 90° angle to the old, it is not imperative. That said, this is essential if you are nailing directly to the joists.
• Because you are likely to be fixing your solid wood boards to the subfloor, underlay is not usually used, but there are slatted underlays you can buy for the purpose, with pre-cut slots that allow the floor to be glued directly to the subfloor (try Acoustalay Slatted Glue Through Underlay, available from Screwfix).

Before beginning work, skirting boards should ideally be removed to achieve the neatest finish. Some homeowners do, however, choose to leave skirting in place and use quadrant beading to cover the gap between the floor and skirting — although the finish is rarely quite a polished.

Most solid wood flooring comes with tongue-and-groove edges and can be either glued or secret nailed, but before you begin, remember you will need to leave an expansion gap around the walls of around 15mm to allow for movement. You can pick up plastic spacers to do the job for you. 

Depending on the size of your room, it should take around two to three days to lay wood flooring, although it has to be said that laying a fixed solid floor is a more time-consuming task than installing engineered wood. The results, however, speak for themselves.

Step-by-Step

1. Acclimatise the boards and decide which direction you are going to lay them in. If you are fixing them directly on to the floor joists, they will have to run at a 90° angle to them. Remove any inward-opening doors. 

2. Remove the skirting boards using a crowbar (place a wooden or cork block between the wall and crowbar to avoid damage. 

3. Vacuum and clean the subfloor and, if using, cut and fit underlay. 

 4. Position plastic spacers along the longest and straightest wall. 

5. Fix the first row of boards — if the boards have tongue-and-groove edges, ensure the groove is facing the wall and start from a corner. Nail or glue depending on how you have decided to fix the boards and remember that the expansion gap will need to run around the edges of the entire room, including at the ends of the boards. 

6. Lay the second row starting with the section cut off the board at the end of the last row you laid. Stagger the end joints of the adjacent rows by around 30cm. You can buy fitting tools to push the ends of the boards together. Work your way across the room, tightening each joint with an edge block. 

7. When you get to pipes, mark the position on the board that is being laid around it, drill a hole about 5mm larger than the diameter of the pipe, and make two saw cuts running from the edge of the board to the sides of the hole. Fit the board into position and glue the off-cut piece of wood back into place behind the pipe. 

8. When you get to the final row, you will probably have to cut along the length of the boards. Measure the gap between the boards and the wall, deduct 15mm and saw the boards to fit. Fix the joints and force into place. 

9. Refit the skirting, or fit new.

Our Estimate
Two to three Days
Cost: DIY or £300–500 (labour)

Engineered Timber Flooring

Many people these days opt for an engineered timber as opposed to solid. It is more stable than solid timber and therefore far less prone to movement. It is made up of a layer of solid wood, bonded to several layers of softwood and comes with tongue-and-groove edges that can be clicked together without the need for nailing or gluing. 

It can be laid as a floating floor, over your existing floor (timber, concrete, tiles — you name it) and is designed to be used with an underlay. The better the product, the thicker the solid wood layer on top — which is particularly important if it needs sanding to repair any patches at some point.