One of my good friends has the most stunning roof lantern in her kitchen extension – yet, she freely admits that, on a warm summer's day, she regrets ever having it installed. It makes the entire space uncomfortably hot to spend time in – and that's before any cooking begins.

With a kitchen remodel on the horizon, I love the idea of fitting a roof lantern into my new space as a way of bringing in more light, and creating a striking focal point – but I am really worried that doing so is just going to make the space unusable on a hot day.

Before ruling out the idea altogether, I decided to speak to some experts to get their opinion on the matter – and I was pleasantly surprised by what they had to say.

Do roof lanterns always cause overheating?

Andrew Madge, director at Vacuum Glazing UK, explains that, when designed and installed correctly, overheating from rooflights need not be an issue. "The aim should be a room that feels bright, comfortable and usable throughout the year. A good roof lantern should bring in the sky, not the full force of a heatwave.

"The glass needs proper thought because there is a big difference between a room filled with natural light and one that overheats every time the sun comes out," he continues. "You want daylight without discomfort, not a beautiful new kitchen extension that feels like a greenhouse with a dining table in the middle of July."

Edward Stobart, technical sales manager at IDSystems, agrees that overheating should not be something that just gets accepted as part of fitting a roof lantern. The key, he says, lies in getting the design right from the start. "Incorporating a roof lantern without creating overheating issues requires careful design from the outset."

Good news then, so what are the secrets to successful roof lantern installation?

Start by thinking about G-values

While I understand the importance of looking at U-values when it comes to thermal performance, what I hadn't realised was that, in order to get a roof lantern that performs the way I want it to, I need to brush up on my G-values.

"Even though U-values are the most widely shared performance indicator for windows, when you are looking to keep your home cool, you need to be looking for G-values instead," explains Andrew Madge.

"A G-value tells you how much heat from the sun passes through the glass. The lower the number, the less solar heat enters the room. That is what helps stop a roof lantern from turning a bright space into an overheated one.

"That said, the answer is not simply to make the glass darker," points out Andrew. "People choose roof lanterns because they want natural light, so the skill is reducing unwanted heat while keeping the bright, airy feel."

Vacuum glazing is a wise choice

There have been so many glazing innovations in recent years that it can be hard to keep up with what to use in each type of application.

According to Andrew Madge, choosing rooflight units with vacuum glazing is a great idea. "Vacuum glazing can be a very good option for roof lanterns because it offers strong insulation in a very slim unit. Instead of filling the gap between the panes with gas, like many double or triple glazed units, vacuum glazing removes the air from a tiny cavity between the glass panes," he explains.

"Microscopic support pillars hold the panes apart, while the vacuum helps slow heat transfer. It works on a similar principle to a vacuum flask. That matters for roof lanterns because gas-filled units can behave differently when installed on a slope or horizontally," continues Andrew.

"Warm gas rises and cooler gas falls, which creates movement inside the cavity. In angled glazing, that movement can reduce the insulating benefit of the gas. Vacuum glazing doesn't have that problem because there is no gas moving around inside the cavity. There is nothing to rise, fall or circulate," he says.

"That means it can offer consistent performance whether the glass is installed vertically, horizontally or on an angle. Our glazing, for example, has centre pane U-values of 0.34 W/m²K – the lowest that we are aware of with any glass. The lower it is, the better it is at keeping heat inside, meaning your room will also stay cosy in the cold seasons," he notes.

Solar control glass can make a huge difference

Both experts I spoke to agreed that solar control glass, when used in a roof lantern, can make a huge difference and here's why.

"Opting for glazing with a solar control coating is an absolute must because it reduces the solar gain from direct sunlight," explains Edward Stobart. "The microscopic coating works by reflecting and absorbing the infrared heat while still allowing light to pass through."

"For larger, south-facing or exposed roof lanterns, I would usually look at solar control glass," agrees Andrew Madge. "This uses a more targeted Low-E coating to reduce solar heat gain while keeping useful daylight. With our solar control options, the G-value can be reduced to around 0.17 to 0.33, depending on the glazing set-up.

"That means far less heat entering from above during hotter periods," he explains. "It can also block up to 99% of UV rays, which helps protect flooring, furniture, artwork and fabrics from fading. That is especially useful in rooms with a lot of direct sunlight."

Tailor your roof lantern to the room it is being fitted in

As with all types of windows, the room that your roof lantern is being fitted in needs to lead the specification – in short, what works for one space could be all wrong for another.

"The best specification depends on the room," says Andrew Madge. "A small, north-facing roof lantern may benefit from maximising light and insulation. A large roof lantern over a south-facing kitchen or open-plan kitchen space will usually need stronger solar control."

"The proportions of light transmittance can be customised to meet the exact requirements of your home," adds Edward Stobart. "Roof lanterns installed in larger sizes or on south-facing elevations with no shade from trees may be better suited to glass with a lower transmittance, while areas with lower sun-exposure will likely benefit from glass that maximises the amount of light let in."

Fit a roof lantern with built-in ventilation

While opening windows is not always the best way to keep a house cool in summer, there are instances where having the ability to open up your roof lantern to allow a cool breeze in can be a good idea.

"When it comes to preventing overheating, it is important to consider whether a roof lantern with an opening vent may be a good idea," says Edward Stobart. "The opening vents allow warm air from inside the home to escape, as well as aiding natural ventilation.

"The opening vents are normally controlled electronically and can even be programmed to automatically open when the room below gets too warm – with a built-in rain sensor that closes again should the weather change," he explains.

Andrew Madge is keen to point out that shading – both inside and out – can help too. "External shading can reduce heat before it reaches the glass. Blinds can help with glare and comfort, but they should not be used to rescue the wrong glass choice. If the blinds need to stay shut all summer, the roof lantern is not doing its job properly."

FAQs

Should roof lanterns have Low-E glass?

When shopping around for roof lanterns or rooflights you may also hear the term 'Low-E' glass – something you could benefit from in the fight against overheating.

"Low-E stands for Low-Emissivity," explains Andrew Madge. "It is a microscopic metallic coating built directly into the glass, designed to control heat movement without making the glass look heavy or dark.

"Our standard Low-E coating gives 76% visible light transmittance," continues Andrew. "In plain English, it still lets lots of daylight through, so you keep the main benefit of the roof lantern. It also has a G-value of 0.58, which can work well for smaller, north-facing or shaded roof lanterns where overheating is less likely."

There are many different types of ceiling glazing and incorporating it into your home's design can be a great way to pull natural light in where standard windows won't work. Even small areas of ceiling glazing can have a transformative effect on previously gloomy spaces. Or, if you're considering a greater expanse of glass, take a look at these glass roof extension ideas for more inspiration.

Choosing windows for a house can always feel a little daunting – not surprising given the enormous effect they have on its exterior appearance. Be honest, how many times have you driven past a house and thought: 'nice house, shame about the windows'?

It isn't just the outside of a house that can be ruined by the wrong types of windows though – inside, spaces can be left feeling gloomy, suffering from overheating or, in a huge number of cases, missing out on the views available.

All too often, homeowners will select standard-sized windows, or assume that large expanses of sliding or bifold doors are the best way to pull in light and achieve garden views. However, there are, in fact, better ways to use glazing to maximise both. Here, architects and designers reveal the techniques they use for a more considered approach.

Start by deciding what you want your view to be

Before choosing windows or deciding their position, it is so important think beyond pulling in light – you need to consider what you will be looking out at once they are in place too.

Rhys Owen, director at Pensaer, explains how he starts the process. "The question of glazing begins with the spatial character of a room and its relationship to the landscape beyond – it’s not about the size of an opening, but how it shapes the experience of the space.

"Architecture has the ability to focus attention on things that might otherwise go unnoticed," continues Rhys. "A picture window looking onto a hedge, a glimpse of a tree canopy, a planted courtyard or a patch of sky can all become meaningful if they're carefully framed and positioned within the room."

Rhys goes on to explain how the practice recently adopted this approach on one of their projects (below). "At Ashbourne, the client had a banana tree that she'd looked after for many years, so we aligned the view from her desk towards it. It wasn't about creating a grand vista; it was about strengthening a connection to something that already mattered to her."

Don't feel that all windows have to open

While it is nice to be able to fling open the windows in order to bring the fresh air in, not all your glazing has to open in order for it to have a huge effect on your experience of living in your home.

Dan Todd, sales director at Klöeber , explains the benefits of using fixed glazing. "When people think about making the most of a garden view, they often go straight to full-width bifold or sliding doors. Those can work beautifully, but they are not always the most practical or interesting answer.

"Sometimes, fixed glazing can create a stronger result," continues Dan. "A fixed pane, often called a picture window, gives you more glass and less frame because it doesn't need opening sections. That means less interruption to the view, often better thermal performance and, in many cases, a more cost-effective solution.

"Fixed glazing works particularly well in kitchens, double-height spaces and landings," continues Dan. "In kitchens, it can frame the garden without sacrificing storage or worktop space. In a double-height space, it can add scale and drama without unnecessary moving parts."

Edward Stobart, technical sales manager at IDSystems, is also a fan of the picture window, but emphasises the importance of choosing the right type of glass for this use.

"For large picture windows, when it comes to specifying the glass it is important to consider two things. If your window is south-facing, then you may wish to opt for glass with a solar control coating – this reduces the amount of heat from direct sunlight that the window lets in. If your window isn’t south-facing, then a low-iron glass is worth considering because its extra transparency will provide a better view out."

Bigger isn't always better

It is easy to assume that the bigger the window, the better – particularly in the case of kitchen extensions, and side return extensions, where a strong connection to the garden is called for. However, this is not always the case.

"It's easy to focus on the size of an opening, but the more interesting question is what that opening is doing to the experience of the room," picks up Rhys Owen. "Sometimes a carefully framed glimpse can be more engaging than a fully open panoramic view because it creates focus, depth and a stronger awareness of the landscape around you."

Dan Todd agrees that it is far better to think about what in the garden you are framing, rather than how much of it you can see. "The best schemes start by asking what each piece of glazing needs to do. Some elements need to open. Some need to bring in light. Others simply need to frame a view beautifully. When you combine those elements carefully, glazing can create a much richer connection to the garden than one large opening alone."

Use high-level glazing to make the sky your view

In cases where there isn't necessarily much of a view to work with, or where natural light is limited, as is often the case with urban properties, it can be better to look upwards rather than out.

"High-level clerestory windows tend to draw the eye upwards towards the sky rather than straight out at fence lines or neighbouring properties," explains Edward Stobart. "They're also particularly effective in urban gardens where privacy is important but natural light is also required.

"Additionally, they can be perfect for framing the views up – whether that's moving clouds or changing daylight conditions – turning them into a feature in their own right," he adds.

Pick and choose your views with slot windows

It is really important to remember that you don't have to have expansive views out over the countryside, or be able to gaze out to sea in order to enjoy a view. Sometimes, just picking one feature, be that a glossy, dense hedge, your modern fence ideas, or a highly textured brick wall, is all that is needed to create interest.

This is where narrow, vertical slot windows work really well – plus they are ideal at the front of properties where light is required, but so too is privacy.

"These are an increasingly popular feature in architectural glazing," reveals Edward Stobart. "By creating a slim vertical slot window, focus can be brought to a particularly desired area of the garden – ideal for where one element of the garden is more appealing than others. A carefully designed slot can provide sufficient interest in what would otherwise be a mediocre view."

Don't be afraid to combine window styles

Unless you are dealing with a period or listed property, where the type of windows need to match its architectural roots, or have been specified by the planners, there is nothing in the rulebook to say all your windows have to match.

In fact, as Edward Stobart explains, combining different styles can add bags of charm. "For a more artistic effect, modern trends such as asymmetrical window arrangements can add character to a contemporary home."

Rhys Owen highlights how mixing and matching different types of opening often makes far more sense than feeling restricted to just one style. "One of the first things we ask is what the space should feel like, and how connected it should be with to the outside. A room with a single aspect can often feel surprisingly tunnel-like, even if the opening itself is very large. We generally therefore try to create as many aspects as possible, whether that's through a corner window, rooflights, glazing in two directions, or a more carefully positioned secondary view."

Tailor roof glazing to your home

There are so many different types of ceiling glazing and rooflights and, in the absence of a traditional view, this can be the ideal way to create one.

"Large glass roofs are not just ideal for drawing light deeper into a room, they can also be perfect for framing the views above," explains Edward Stobart.

Do consider how you can tailor your ceiling glazing to your home rather than just opting for a bank of standard rooflights. Dan Pyzer-Knapp, associate at OB Architecture Ltd, explains how this was done in the case of one of the practice's projects (above). "We used rooflights with timber fins to create dynamic shadows that change the space throughout the day. This helps bring soft natural light into otherwise shady corners of a large open plan space, and adds a point of interest through the cast shadows across the wall and floor."

Frame choice matters just as much as window style

The frames you choose can have just as much of an effect on how well a view is framed as the window itself, as Edward Stobart explains. "I recommend opting for slim, minimalist frames that allow for large panes of uninterrupted glass, maximising the visibility of the outside. Aluminium windows tend to be ideal because they are able to combine big panes of glass with minimal visible frames.

“Beyond that, square-edged window profiles in a colour that contrasts with the internal decor are ideal because they provide a clear border to the view out, focusing your eyes on the view through the window, not at the window itself."

The depth of the window reveal can also play a part here, almost turning the view into a work of art. "Deep reveals around picture windows create cosy nooks that frame the view beautifully," says Edward. "Window seats have become hugely popular and are ideal for making the view out seem more artistic. Being closer to the glass allows you to take more of the view in because you see less of the room itself."

Don't shy away from walls of glass entirely

While people seem to be getting more creative with their window choices, looking at alternatives to the swathes of sliding and bifold doors that at one time seemed to be dominating the market, this 'glass wall' approach can still be the right one in some cases.

"Sometimes, the view is so good that the whole wall needs to be glazed," points out Dan Pyzer-Knapp, who goes on to explain that overheating needs to be considered when taking this approach. "In the beach house project (above), to avoid overheating issues, we designed an overhanging canopy that shades occupants from the strongest sun, and gives a wide panoramic view across the sea."

Edward Stobart likes to use corner windows where a more panoramic view is the order of the day. "With no visible frame, glass-to-glass corner windows can be cleverly fitted to the corners of rooms to extend the width of the view. This can draw attention to certain features within the garden and reveal areas that would otherwise be out of sight through a normal window. For example, a beautiful corner bed filled with mature plants could be on show instead of a plain wall, a stunning tree in a neighbour’s garden could be viewed instead of a dull fence or even reveal an even more interesting view from a completely different angle."

Consider orientation and shading to give a clear outlook

The direction your windows are facing needs to be taken into consideration if you want to make the most of a view, particularly with regards to issues with solar gain, glare or reflections.

"If your window is south-facing then direct sunlight may interfere with your view," explains Edward Stobart. "If you are building an extension or a new-build home then there may be the opportunity to install louvres or a brise-soleil, or design an overhang above your large picture window. This will reduce the reflections on the glass and better frame the view out."

Be sure to consider the orientation of your windows with regards to seeking out the very best view too. Rhys Owen explains how this was done on the project above. "We rotated the extension by 45 degrees rather than projecting it straight out from the rear of the house. That immediately created more aspects and more ways of looking into the garden. The footprint didn't change, but the room felt much more connected to its surroundings because your eye is constantly finding different points of reference. That's often more important than whether there is a spectacular view to begin with."

FAQs

Does a window seat always need a view?

Toying with the idea of incorporating some window seat ideas into your home? They are a brilliant way to create a cosy spot to relax but is a view a prerequisite of this feature?

According to Edward Stobart, even if the view isn't particularly striking, incorporating a window seat can help you see a vista you hadn't before noticed. "Sitting in a window seat allows you to get closer to the view rather than simply looking at it from across the room. Being closer to the glass also changes the perspective, allowing for a wider field of view."

"Creating a reading nook in a small window next to a hedge can link you into the outside landscape whilst sitting inside," adds Dan Pyzer-Knapp. "A view might not be incredible on its own, but when paired with a unique bit of design, it helps create a special and intimate space."

Alongside shape, size, position and style, don't forget to choose the right window colours for your home – they can totally transform the way it looks both inside and out. And, if you're keen to bring more light inside your home, take a look at these internal window ideas as well to help open up your interior.

There was a time, not so long ago, when the world of patio doors was pretty small. French doors were the go-to for anyone looking for a way to access their patio from their home and, even then, the options were limited when compared to today's plethora of options. Bifold and sliding door technology wasn't what it is now, meaning both of these types of patio door were viewed with some suspicion.

Fast-forward a little and some significant developments in operating mechanisms, glazing and framing materials – not to mention an unquenchable thirst for 'bringing the outside in' – meant that sliding and bifold doors began to overtake French doors,

But, much like the fashion cycle, French doors are making a re-appearance with a modern makeover. Homeowners are once again appreciating the simplicity and elegance of the French door – and design experts explain why you should too.

Are French doors back in fashion?

For a while, French doors were no longer seen as a contemporary choice, so why is it changing?

"In my 17 years at Kloeber I've seen a few cyclical trends – and this is one of them," says Dan Todd, sales director at Kloeber. "For the last decade, much of the attention in the glazing industry has been focused on large sliding patio doors and bifold systems. Homeowners have been captivated by ever-larger panes of glass, slim sightlines and dramatic openings that blur the line between inside and out. Yet, recently, we've noticed something interesting – French doors are making a bit of a comeback."

Andrew Madge, managing director of Gowercroft Joinery and President of The British Woodworking Federation agrees that French doors are becoming fashionable once more. "We've seen French doors becoming more popular again, especially as the heritage side of our business has grown. Sales in our French door ranges increased by 113.4% from 2023 to 2026 and French doors have also grown from an estimated 8% of sales in 2023 to 13.6% in 2026 so far."

It seems, then, that French doors are indeed firmly back on the radar – and here's exactly why they could be the best option for you.

6 reasons why French doors might work for you

1. They are one of the more affordable options

Patio door costs can soon spiral when using sliding or bifold doors, particularly when dealing with supersized openings – thanks to their simpler operating mechanisms and installation process, however, French doors tend to be a more affordable option.

"Cost is a consideration for most clients," picks up Dan Todd. "High-quality French doors are typically more affordable than large sliding or bifold systems, allowing homeowners to invest elsewhere in their project while still achieving a premium finish."

Edward Stobart, technical sales manager at IDSystems, agrees that French doors can be a wiser option for those working on smaller scale projects, seeking to minimise costs. "French doors are particularly well suited to small extensions, renovations and heritage-style homes. They generally require less structural intervention and building works than wider glazing systems, and can therefore be a more cost-effective solution."

2. You don't need to be working with a huge opening

Not everyone has – or wants – huge openings from the inside of their home to their garden. While these can undoubtedly look stunning, particularly on a summer's day when the entire rear of a house can be opened up, sometimes all that is needed is a more modest way to access outdoors – and this is where French doors are ideal.

"They suit a wider variety of homes – not every property requires a six-metre opening or a wall of glass," points out Dan Todd. "For smaller extensions, renovations and period properties, French doors can often look more proportionate and sympathetic to the architecture. They provide a strong connection to the garden while maintaining character and balance."

"While large sliding doors and bifold doors remain hugely popular for larger apertures, French doors offer an option for smaller openings – particularly for those looking to add character or complement the architecture of an existing property," adds Edward Stobart.

3. They are a great way to add character to a house

While there is nothing to stop owners of traditional-style or period properties adding a swathe of sliding doors to their homes, in some cases, the more classic look of French doors can be a better way to enhance their character and charm.

"A large part of the growth in the popularity of French doors is coming from historic properties, listed buildings and from those buying houses in conservation areas," explains Andrew Madge. "French doors often suit these projects because they work with traditional proportions rather than trying to create the largest possible opening. On many older buildings, a huge expanse of sliding or bifold glazing can look out of place.

"There is also a wider design shift away from stripped-back minimalism," continues Andrew. "We're seeing more people making a deliberate choice to add character back into their homes. Increasingly, homeowners want to see detail, craftsmanship and materials that make a statement rather than doors that are designed to fade into the background. That trend is reflected in the British Woodworking Federation’s Championing Timber in the Home Report 2025, which found that aesthetic appeal is now the leading influence on door choice at 34%, increasing in importance since the 2023 report. As one of the most visible elements of a home’s exterior, doors are becoming a design feature in their own right, and French doors often align well with that desire for character and individuality."

4. They match the British climate perfectly

The idea of being able to open up an entire wall of the house to create a seamless link between inside and out is undeniably appealing – but, in reality, how often does the UK climate actually allow for this? French doors might not give the option of doing this when the sun does shine, but perhaps that isn't always such a bad thing.

Andrew Madge suggests that, rather than viewing French doors as replacements for bifold or sliding doors, they should be seen as something that can be used alongside them. "French doors are not trying to do the same job as bifold or sliding doors but are often more practical.

"Sliding and bifold doors are often chosen because they can open up a larger area, but that is not always what people actually need," continues Andrew. "With the UK weather, the full-opening feature is only useful some of the time and people are starting to realise that. Day-to-day, most people use one access point: to step outside, let the dog out, reach a balcony or bring some air into the room. French doors do that simply, with less complexity and often at a lower cost."

5. French door technology now matches the alternatives

There was a time when it was easy to assume that the thermal efficiency and technology, not to mention the glazing innovations, associated with French doors just couldn't match that of the more more modern alternatives – not so these days.

"Modern French doors are significantly more advanced than the chunky uPVC versions people may remember from years ago," explains Edward Stobart. "What has made the biggest difference has been the development of aluminium frame technology. Modern thermally broken aluminium profiles allow for a slender appearance and maximise the amount of glass. In addition, aluminium frames also make French doors easier to couple with fixed frame sidelight windows, or to incorporate within a much larger glazed screen such as glass curtain walling."

Timber French doors too have seen some significant improvements over the years, as Andrew Madge explains. "Older French doors had a reputation for being draughty, less secure and prone to swelling or sticking. Modern timber French doors are very different. Our French door options can achieve U-values as low as 0.82 W/m²K, with PAS 24 and Secured by Design security compliance, modern locking systems, improved airtightness and better weather performance. The materials have improved too. Timbers like Accoya improve longevity and stability, reducing the risk of warping, swelling or sticking over time. Water-based coatings have also made modern timber doors much lower maintenance than many people expect."

6. Things have moved on style-wise

It isn't just the technology involved with French doors that has been evolving and improving – there is now much more design choice too, making them ideal not just for traditional settings, but more modern homes too.

While there are some really sleek, minimalist French door designs out there now, in all kinds of powder-coated finishes, manufacturers have also wholly embraced the trend for Crittall-style doors and windows.

"Where aluminium French doors have really soared in popularity is where they are designed with horizontal bars through the glass that match the look of traditional steel doors at a fraction of the cost," reveals Edward Stobart. "These Art Deco-inspired doors combine traditional style with the latest in modern design options."

FAQs

Are French doors replacing sliding and bifold doors?

Clearly French doors are once again being seen as a brilliant option for those seeking to create access and visual connection between their interiors and the garden – but does that mean sliding and bifold doors are losing their appeal?

Dan Todd thinks not. "Rather than replacing sliding and bifold doors, French doors are finding their place alongside them. Each solution has its strengths, and the best choice depends on the property, house style, the opening size and how the space will be used."

Andrew Madge agrees with this view. "French doors aren't replacing sliding doors or bifolds – some people have both. French doors are especially useful for smaller openings, Juliet balconies, bedrooms, snugs and older parts of a property, where easy access and proportion are more important than opening up an entire wall."

"What's clear is that French doors are no longer the overlooked option," adds Dan Todd. "Thanks to modern engineering, improved performance and changing homeowner priorities, they are once again becoming a popular and highly relevant choice for contemporary home design ideas."

Sometimes, the best course of action is to use a combination of patio door styles rather than relying on just one type of system. If this idea appeals to you, make sure you take time to research bifold vs sliding doors first – understanding the pros and cons of each will help you make an informed decision, as will taking a look at bi-fold patio door costs to see which type best matches your budget.

There was a time, not so long ago, when it you would be hard pushed to find an extension or renovation project that didn't feature a set of bifold doors. It didn't matter what kind of house they were being added to, or how big the opening being filled was – everyone (myself included) jumped on the 'bring-the-outside-in' bandwagon, and bifolds were a non-negotiable part of this.

But as glazing innovations have changed, so have patio doors in general, with larger sizes, styles and contemporary finishes now on offer, meaning the question now tends to be around bifold doors vs sliding patio doors, as both options connect inside with out.

We reached out to some top design experts for their views on when each type of door works best, and how to identify the right style for your project.

Are bifold doors still in fashion?

In my own home, I have a small set of composite bifold doors – timber on the inside, with a grey powder-coated aluminium finish on the out – complete with integrated blind on one side, and a handy fly screen on the other. Since they were installed around 10 years ago, they have withstood the test of time well, and I really have no complaints. However, we are soon to embark on another home extension project and I'm wondering whether they still have a place in current extension trends, or if I should be exploring sliding patio doors instead.

Edward Stobart, technical sales manager at IDSystems, shared his thoughts on this with me. "Bifold doors have not gone out of fashion, but how they are used on projects has changed over the past 10 years. Where once they were the go-to option for any and every project that required large expanses of glazing, nowadays they tend to be utilised for smaller apertures, under four metres wide."

Architect James Munro of Pace Architecture agrees that in his experience, there has been a move away from this style of patio door.

"I think we have seen a general decline in the use of bifolds over the last 10-15 years – and we now rarely specify them, for a number of reasons," he says, citing how many of his clients are keen to explore other options, seeking something that's different to bifold doors instead.

Are sliding doors replacing bifold doors?

If bifold doors are not your go-to option – sliding doors are the most obvious alternative, but what's different about them and why might they be more suitable for your scheme?

"When a client comes to us wanting to open their ground floor to a garden or terrace, we typically steer them towards sliding doors instead," reveals James Munro. "The difference in day-to-day experience is significant. A good sliding system creates a genuinely seamless connection between interior and exterior. In summer, you are living across both spaces without thinking about it.

"Bifolds, by contrast, stack panels, eat into usable floor area when open, and the folding mechanisms can be, in our experience, more susceptible to failure over time."

What are the alternatives to sliding and bifold doors?

Of course, sliding doors are not the only alternative worth considering – there are lots of other options also enjoying plenty of popularity right now.

"Our two most common specifications now are sliding systems and steel-framed, Crittall-style glazing," says James Munro. "The choice between them is driven by both how the client plans to use the space and the architectural character of the project.

"Sliding suits open-plan living, where the boundary between inside and outside should dissolve. Crittall suits projects where the glazing is as much about how it looks as how it performs – we tend to specify these as floor-to-ceiling units, with tall elegant proportions and fixed side lights. It has a more considered, classic quality without reverting to French doors.

"In many of our projects we also have large fixed areas of architectural glazing, oriel or picture windows – tall, fixed windows framing a view of the garden," continues James. "This variety adds interest internally and externally, as well as being more practical in terms of window treatments and placement of furniture, and it also helps with zoning a room," he adds, noting how the design of bifolds can offer less room for these more nuanced architectural details.

When bifolds can be the best option

While bifold doors might no longer be the only champion of the patio door world, they still seem to have so much to offer, so what are the instances when they are still a viable option?

"Where bifold doors come into their own is their ability to completely open an aperture, unlike sliding doors which almost always need a fixed frame behind which the other panels slide," points out Edward Stobart.

"For smaller openings, giving up part of the aperture to a fixed frame can be quite a considerable compromise, so the ability to fold and slide bifolds to one end to create a seamless transition between inside and out, remains as popular as ever."

That said, if your lifestyle or location makes large expanses of open walls unrealistic, a more fixed frame system might be a better option, notes James Munro.

"My personal view is that in practice, you rarely want or need a full wall of glass to open up. This benefit, when it comes for just a few weeks of the year, does not override the negative of having more vertical frames and panels of glass than a sliding system, which might only open up to two thirds," he says. "I also think there is something more pleasurable in sliding a high-quality framed system too," he adds.

Will new developments in bifold doors change things?

It is important to note here, that things haven't just stood still for bifold doors – there have been some significant developments in the last few years that could see them coming up in the popularity stakes once more.

"When it comes to 'fashion', Art Deco-style designs, with horizontal bars across the glass have given aluminium bifold door sales a boost because they more closely match the look of traditional steel-framed doors – offering traditional style for period properties, or adding character to new-builds, extensions or homes," says Edward Stobart.

"The one area where demand for bifold doors fell significantly was with timber-framed systems," continues Edward. "However, developments in thermal efficiency mean that aluminium doors are just as efficient as timber systems but without the risks of frames warping and flexing.

"While sliding doors might have replaced bifold doors for most larger apertures, inventions such as the Vistaline Slide & Turn System from IDSystems now offer alternatives for homeowners to consider. The system features narrow frames, just like sliding doors, but with panels that slide and stack to one end like bifolds. This has given those considering an extension or house renovation more choice than they would have had a decade ago ."

FAQs

Are bifold doors more secure than sliding doors?

For many homeowners installing patio doors, security will be a priority. In the past, bifold doors did tend to be more secure than sliding doors, thanks to their multiple locking points, however, when it comes to modern systems, there is not much of a difference.

"When it comes to factors like security, weather protection and thermal efficiency, the development of all aluminium door systems means there is very little in it between the different types of doors," says Edward Stobart, although he goes on to point out that quality really does matter here.

"The adage that ‘you get what you pay for’ really applies with bifold door costs, so ensuring that you choose the best possible system from a reputable supplier is especially important for long-term peace of mind."

Whichever type of door you end up opting for, it is still worthwhile looking into the best home security systems.

Alongside your choice of patio door, whether you are building from scratch, renovating or extending, make sure you think through your front door ideas really carefully too – they really can make or break the overall kerb appeal of a property.

And, to make the connection between indoors and outdoors even more cohesive, make sure you understand how to make an extension work with your garden.

With temperatures set to rise, it can be all too instinctive to assume less is more when it comes to keeping cool. But while that may work with clothing, dressing your windows requires an entirely different approach.

While it's fairly common knowledge that closing your curtains can prevent overheating in your home, it seems creating a 'window stack' could be even more successful during the warmer months.

It is in fact very much a case of more is less, reveals our window expert.

What is window stacking?

Although the type of windows you have in your home will go some way to defining your choice of window covering, a window stack isn't limited to just one type of material or fabric.

Instead, it's about layering products in the right way so that they help to keep your home cooler.

Helen O’Connor, product and trends manager at 247 Blinds explains. "A window stack is essentially a strategic combination of window dressings, curated in a ‘stack’ to give homeowners additional control over elements like light, temperatures, privacy and overall feel of their home.”

It's about picking around three different layers of coverings, each with their own set of attributes, which when combined in the right order, give you maximum control over heat coming in, and equally heat going out in the winter.

“Implementing different layers to your windows makes your space so much more dynamic," adds Helen, "playing a specific role in your home’s ‘ecosystem’, and making your home ready for the moments where you want to embrace the sunshine, or keep cool.”

How to create a window stack

There are three main steps to creating a window stack says Helen O'Connor.

1. Start with a controllable base layer

Think of the first layer of your window stack as the, "first line of defence when it comes to managing sunlight," says Helen, recommending a Venetian or slatted blind as the best starting point.

The adjustable slats mean you can tilt and redirect sunlight away from the room, in much the same was adjusting your shutter slats will help to prevent heat from escaping in winter. While homeowners often ask do blinds keep heat in, given they prevent it escaping in winter, it's how you tilt them that makes a window stack work.

"Tilting your blinds slats helps reduce glare and prevents rooms from overheating, especially in south-facing rooms where sunlight is more intense throughout the day,” explains Helen.

2. Add a middle layer that filters light

“Your second layer should soften the light and help regulate temperature without making the room feel dark and heavy," says Helen. The aim is to keep your home feeling light and airy rather than dark and dense.

"For this, a sheer or lightweight curtain or drape works perfectly, without compromising on the overall styling of the room," she recommends.

"A light fabric will help to diffuse harsh sunlight and minimise the circulation of hot air, while still allowing daylight to flow through the space, ideal for keeping rooms bright but comfortable during peak daylight hours.”

Try this technique in south-facing living rooms or bedrooms where the heat can build up during the day, making them uncomfortable to spend time in once you step inside in the evening.

3. Finish with your 'heaviest' layer

“For your final layer, it’s all about insulation," says Helen. And while it's easy to associate the word insulation with warmth, it's a common mistake to forget that it also helps keep homes cool as well.

"A thicker, thermal or blackout curtain is a great addition for when temperatures really climb," advises Helen. "Closing these curtains during the hottest parts of the day, will helps block out excess heat and sunlight, and act as a barrier of thermal resistance that keeps rooms cooler for longer.

"I’d recommend going for a lighter colour of curtain though," she adds, "to further repel the light and heat rather than absorbing it.”

Shop for a window stack

Window stacking mistakes

Of course, as with any measures for preventing overheating or keeping warm, there's a fine line between too much and too little which can lead to problems. So what should, and shouldn't you do with a window stack?

“A big mistake is not giving your curtains, blinds and shutters the physical space to breathe and move. If your layers are too cramped, different pieces can snag, and you will lose the functionality," warns Helen.

"For instance, if your blind brackets stick out too far, your curtains won't be able to glide smoothly across them, and if bunched-up curtain fabric blocks your blinds or shutters during the day, you won't be able to open them properly.

"To prevent a cluttered and frustrating setup, always map out the exact space each layer requires when pushed back, and keep your handles and control cords on opposite sides so they never get tangled," recommends Helen.

Try a double bracket window pole such as this pack of 3 from Dunelm to make sure there is sufficient space between your final and mid-layer of curtains.

Also make sure you choose the right materials

With the layers each playing their own part in your window stacking system, making sure you use the right materials in the right places is also fundamental to the success of this concept.

“Stacking two blackout-coated items is something I’d avoid," warns Helen. "You’d presume that using two blackout layered window dressings would provide double the efficiency, but in extremely hot situations, the fabric can become slightly tacky and stick to each other, which can tear the blind when pulled apart.

"If you don't want a full three-layered window stack, pairing a blackout blind as the first line of defence, and then a traditionally lined curtain, is usually a better pairing," she recommends.

Find a range of blackout blinds to start your stack at Blinds247.

FAQ

Will window stacking cause ventilation problems?

“As long as your window stack gives a one to two inch gap between the glass and your first layer, and the dressings are well maintained, you shouldn’t have any issues with heat build-up or ventilation," says Helen. "Generally speaking, I’d also advise 'house-burping' – the process of opening all your windows and window dressings for at least ten minutes a day, whatever the weather. This promotes ventilation, and removes the risk of heat getting trapped between each layer," she adds.

"It’s also a useful habit to ensure your window dressings are part of your weekly cleaning regime," she continues. "Often, all they need is a gentle and regular wipe down with a microfibre cloth. This will help you avoid any dust buildup, helping you maintain your window stack through the summer.”

If you're considering a more permanent means of keeping your home cool in a heatwave or during the summer months, you could consider installing air con in your home.

Alternatively, we rate the Meacofan Sefte 10" Pedestal Fan, as well as the Duux Whisper Flex 2 if you want a more portable means of reducing the temperature.

As one of the most frequent touch-points in your home, hardware – normally categorised as your door and cabinet handles – play a bigger part in your interior design than you might think. Often forgotten, or chosen at the last minute, the reality is it can make or break the finished look.

I know, because I've made some questionable choices in the past, swayed by budget or appearance, only to regret my decisions pretty quickly. Glass mortice door knobs being a particularly memorable example which looked good, but quickly fell apart and were unrepairable – and let's not even go into the fingerprint marks they accumulated on a daily basis.

So, using my experience, love of interiors and some expert advice, here's what to consider when selecting your knobs and handles for an interior design scheme, along with some of the stores I love to browse for ideas and inspiration.

How to choose hardware

With handles needed for a whole host of items in your home, ranging from internal doors to choosing kitchen cabinet handles, it can be hard to decide what you want in each location.

Do you match throughout the home – usually the preferred choice for internal doors – and then attempt to get some cohesion with other types of handles, or do you mix and match as befits each room?

I asked Gareth Hull, design lead at Hendel & Hendel what we should all be considering when choosing hardware, and here's what he shared.

1. Think about it early on in your design plans

“Hardware tends to be one of the last decisions in a project, often chosen once cabinetry, surfaces and finishes have already been resolved," agrees Gareth, "yet it is one of the few elements you come into contact with every single day, which gives it a disproportionate influence over how a space feels to use and live in.

"When it is right, it sits quietly within the scheme and supports everything around it without drawing attention to itself, but when it is not quite right, whether that comes down to proportion, weight or finish, you become aware of it in a subtle but persistent way," he warns.

"That is why we always encourage people to think about hardware earlier in the self build or renovation process," says Gareth, "because it is not simply a final layer, it is part of the experience of the room and the way it is handled over time.”

2. Drill down into the details of proportion, size and finish

“When choosing hardware, proportion is always the starting point," advises Gareth, "because it governs both how something sits on the cabinetry and how it feels in use, and that relationship between scale and function is what determines whether a piece feels instinctive or slightly off.

"A handle needs to relate to the size of the door or drawer, but also to the depth of the joinery, and the natural movement of the hand, so even small adjustments can make a noticeable difference," he says.

"From there, finish begins to shape the mood of the piece, with brushed and burnished surfaces softening light and settling more easily into a scheme, while darker tones introduce depth and contrast, and brighter finishes bring a sharper, more defined edge.

"Style tends to work best when it is restrained, allowing the material and proportion to carry the design rather than relying on unnecessary detail.”

3. Don't dismiss the importance of texture

“Tactility is something that becomes more important the longer you live with a space, because hardware is handled constantly and that repeated interaction builds a sense of quality over time, even if it is not something people consciously analyse," explains Gareth.

"Weight plays a key role in that, as it needs to feel balanced in the hand, with enough substance to feel reassuring, but not so much that it becomes cumbersome, and that balance is something we refine carefully through prototyping and testing.

"It is often these quieter details, the way an edge meets the fingertips or how a surface responds to touch, that define whether something feels resolved and comfortable to use.”

4. Think about the 1-3 ratio when choosing your hardware

When researching hardware you may also come across something that's referred to as the 1-3 rule. It's usually in relation to cabinet handles rather than door handles, and some use it as a sizing tool, stating that cabinet handles should be one third of the width or height of a cabinet door in order to achieve the right visual proportions. Others say it's about dividing the door into three and placing the cabinet handle in one of the thirds, or fitting a third away from the edge of the door. But, much like the 60:30:10 decorating rule, it can be open to interpretation depending on your overall visual goals.

“For us, the idea of the ‘1-3 rule’ is something we often refer to when guiding people through a scheme, and it is essentially about restraint and cohesion, allowing a small number of finishes to run throughout a space rather than introducing too many competing elements," says Gareth Hull.

"In most cases, keeping to one primary finish and then introducing one or two secondary accents is enough to create interest without overwhelming the design, so you might have your main bathroom cabinet hardware in one tone, with a complementary finish appearing in lighting or bathroom taps, and perhaps a third used more sparingly.

"It gives the scheme a sense of continuity while still allowing for variation, which tends to feel more natural than trying to match everything exactly or, at the other end, mixing too many finishes without a clear relationship between them.”

Where to shop and look for hardware

When seeking inspiration for new handles for doors or cabinets of any kind, I always start with a browse through the following stores. Some require more of an investment than others, so it depends if you're looking for handles to last or a way to switch up your decor without breaking the bank.

One of the most practical points to think about when replacing handles of any kind is making sure your new handles fit the same screw holes, or will cover the old ones if you need to create new ones.

I know as it's another mistake I made when replacing some internal door handles a few years ago. What started out under the guise of a quick switch, turned into an exercise in filling holes, sanding and painting wooden doors, rather than simply replacing handles.

Plank Hardware – great for dressing up something simple

Plank Hardware has been on my radar for a number of years, as they have a range of handles, backplates and accessories that can turn the ordinary into something a little more special.

I particularly love the ADA Star Knob Backplate, which can turn a simple cabinet knob into a feature. Also the Bobbin D-Bar Handle in Burgundy, which is in line with both interior design trends and paint trends this year.

Superfront – perfect for creating a bespoke look

If you are considering IKEA for kitchens or furniture, then I'd also recommend taking a look at Superfront before you complete your purchasing. They've built a company based on providing doors, hardware and furniture legs that can be used with IKEA base units, such as their Metod kitchens and BESTÅ range of furniture.

It's a great way of saving some cash by using more affordable carcasses and then splashing out on the elements that you actually see on a daily basis.

I need a new laundry cabinet as part of my landing storage, and I've got these Vertical doors, Mini Ball handles and Big Ball spherical legs earmarked that I'll attach to a basic BESTA frame to create what will essentially be a bespoke item.

Hendel & Hendel – a one-stop shop for stylish interior schemes

A company I've only come across in recent times, but one that I've earmarked for any future project on a larger scale. It has a range of styles, finishes and a studio in London where you can visit to see the items for yourself. So important when choosing the hardware for your whole home. Spending thousands on a new home and then feeling a lightweight door handle when you move from your hallway into your kitchen is the last thing you want.

I particuarly like these Huxley T-Bar Knobs in matt black which would be great on a chest of drawers. There's a also a pull handle and knob version if you wanted to kit out some hallway storage or even paint your kitchen cabinet doors and add new hardware.

Another good place to look for fully co-ordinated finishes for handles, light pulls and sockets is Pushka Home. Check out their gold range to see what's on offer.

Graham & Green – for decorative delights

Graham & Green are probably one of my favourite places to look for more unusual and decorative knobs and handles, with over two pages full of beautifully curated styles, shapes and sizes. I could list every item on there, but if my sons were younger, I'd certainly be popping these Gold Stegosaurus Knobs in my shopping basket. They're a perfect way of creating a children's bedroom design that's still filled with style. But, as they're well and truly out of the dinosaur phase, I'd opt for these Leather Drawer Pulls instead.

Don't dismiss DIY stores if you want to shop in person

Of course, as well as online browsing, there are plenty of physical stores that sell hardware too. B&Q and Wickes, both have a good range of cabinet handles, knobs and door handles and I've certainly bought from them in the past. Likewise I've spotted some lovely decorative knobs at Dunelm when shopping for other decorative finishes.

FAQs

What hardware trends are popular this year?

Much like other trends, such as bathroom trends, you may see certain finishes more than others each year, so what's on trend in the world of hardware at the moment?

“We are seeing a continued move towards warmer, more characterful metals that sit comfortably alongside timber, stone and painted cabinetry, rather than standing apart from them," says Gareth Hull.

"Burnished brass remains a strong choice, but there is growing interest in deeper bronze-adjacent tones with softer sheens and subtle texture, finishes that feel settled within a room and develop further with use rather than appearing static.

"There is also a greater appreciation for how finishes behave over time," he adds, "with some people preferring surfaces that remain consistent, while others are drawn to materials that evolve and take on variation through handling, which adds another layer of individuality to the space.”

Should I match hardware throughout my home?

“When it comes to whether hardware should match throughout the home, there is not a single approach, but there is value in thinking about a thread of continuity, particularly with elements such as internal door handles that are used repeatedly as you move through the space. Keeping those consistent can create a quiet sense of cohesion, while allowing more flexibility in areas like kitchens, utility rooms or bathrooms, where cabinetry and function may call for something slightly different.

"It is less about strict matching and more about ensuring that the finishes and forms feel related, so that nothing feels disconnected as you move from one room to another, and that balance between consistency and variation is what tends to create a more settled, resolved interior.”

Inspired to start thinking about your hardware, or perhaps you're considering some bespoke furniture that needs a final finishing touch. If you need more inspiration, take a look at how these home renovators saved thousands building their own bespoke alcove units. Or, if you yearn for a pantry but don't quite have the budget, discover how Homebuilding & Renovating's brand director, Laura Crombie turned to Amazon to create this clever built-in pantry hack.

Ever snapped a key in a lock? Then you‘ll know how frustrating it is not to be able to get into your home. It could be worse; the lock has failed, and a key is of no use at all. Whatever the problem, you’ll need the expertise of a locksmith to sort the problem.

When calculating how much it costs to get your locks changed, there are several factors at play. Do you need a simple cylinder change? Has the multipoint lock on your front door failed and needs replacing? Is it an out-of-hours emergency? Or is it time to upgrade to a smart home security system? Here, the professionals reveal how much you can expect to pay for any scenario.

Typical costs per hour

Costs will vary, but as a general guideline, Andrew Dunn, Master Locksmith at Lemon Locksmith, shares what a qualified locksmith typically charges per hour. “For a daytime, non-emergency visit, a typical charge is around £60 to £90 for the first hour, then £30 to £60 per additional half-hour, although many straightforward jobs are quoted as a fixed price.”

This will go up outside normal working hours, continues Dunn, “Out of hours, the first hour is commonly £90 to £150. VAT may apply, so it is worth confirming whether quotes are inclusive.”

He adds, “Price is mainly driven by the time of day, how quickly attendance is needed, the type of door or locking system, whether non-destructive entry is possible, and the cost and availability of parts.”

Shop these locks to replace you old locks

Guide to common job costs

Here Andrew Dunn gives the lowdown on costs you can expect to pay for the more common lock change jobs.

• Front door unlock
  A front door unlock where entry is gained without damage often costs around £70 to £120 in the day. If a cylinder or lock needs replacing, parts can add roughly £30 to £120, depending on security rating and size.
• uPVC or composite doors
  Multipoint problems can be more variable because the issue may be the gearbox or a full strip rather than the cylinder. Gearbox or strip parts often cost £60 to £130, labour £80 to £150, with totals frequently £150 to £300 or more if the mechanism is uncommon or additional alignment work is needed.
• Window locks
  For a double-glazed window, a minor repair, such as a handle or espagnolette adjustment, is often £60 to £100, while a failed gearbox can add £90 to £180 to the total.
• Garage doors
  For a garage door, gain entry is commonly £80 to £130, with a new T-handle or barrel typically £25 to £60 in parts, making a usual total of about £110 to £180.

Cost to replace a broken key

“A broken key extraction is often £60 to £90 in the daytime if it can be done non-destructively and the cylinder is not damaged,” shares Dunn.

“If the key has jammed the mechanism or the cylinder has been harmed during the break, the lock may need replacing, adding roughly £25 to £120 for a new cylinder depending on the required security rating and size.”

New lock costs

You can buy a new lock yourself, but it's often better to let the locksmith supply a lock as they will choose the right lock for front doors. Here, Dunn shares the typical costs for different types of locks. “For euro cylinders, very basic cylinders can be £20 to £35, but they are generally a false economy on external doors.”

He adds, “Higher-security cylinders that meet common UK expectations, such as TS 007 3-star or SS312 Diamond, are typically £60 to £120.”

Dunn continues, “A BS3621 mortice deadlock is often £45 to £90. A BS3621-rated nightlatch set commonly costs around £60 to £140. For uPVC multipoint systems, a full strip can be around £120 to £250 in parts, depending on brand and length. Window handles are often £10 to £30, and espagnolette gearboxes are commonly £25 to £60.”

Emergency callout charges

The cost of an emergency callout will depend on various factors, including timing, as Dunn notes: “Normal hours are often around 8 am to 6 pm Monday to Friday, but they vary by firm and region.”

As a general guideline, he points out what you can expect to pay, “For an emergency locked-out job out of hours, a typical gain-entry charge is around £120 to £220. Late night, bank holidays, and peak periods can push that to roughly £150 to £300.”

For emergencies outside normal hours, Jordan Harrold, Director at H Harrold & Sons, says expect to pay more for hours outside normal working hours, “An out-of-hours locksmith, or 24-hour locksmith will likely cost approximately £106 an hour from 8 pm onwards.” Again, this will vary by company and region of the country.

Dunn adds some final advice to help establish the price and any extras: “Before confirming attendance, it is sensible to ask for the all-in price, whether VAT is included, what parts might add, and whether there is any cancellation fee if access is regained before arrival.”

FAQs

Can I change a lock myself?

Some locks can be fitted by a competent DIYer, explains Harrold, “Yes, in a lot of cases basic euro cylinder replacement on uPVC doors is relatively simple.” However, it can go wrong. “Incorrect sizing or fitting can compromise security, and you must ensure insurance requirements are met where necessary, so it is always recommended to use professionals.”

Dunn points out common mistakes: “The biggest DIY pitfall is mis-measuring, which can leave the cylinder protruding and more vulnerable, or result in a cylinder that does not sit correctly, affecting security and sometimes insurance expectations.” He adds, “Mortice locks, nightlatches, and multipoint mechanisms are usually better left to a professional.”

Do locksmiths fit locks bought by the customer?

A locksmith may fit a lock you supply, but it may affect your warranty. Dunn explains, “Many locksmiths will fit customer-supplied locks, but expect a labour-only charge that commonly mirrors an unlock or fitting visit, often £70 to £120 depending on complexity.”

He adds, “It is also normal for the locksmith to limit or exclude warranty on parts they did not supply.” It’s worth noting that a locksmith may not fit your lock. “Some will refuse items that are poor quality, incompatible with the door, or unlikely to meet expected security standards."

Does home insurance cover changing locks?

This will depend on the type of insurance policy you have. Dunn says, “Many policies will cover lock changes after theft of keys or a burglary, but lost keys are often only covered if an add-on has been selected.”Harrold adds, “You will usually be covered when locks have been damaged due to another insured event like a fire or vandalism.”

Dunn shares that you also need to consider the excess limit: “Typical claim limits can be around £500 to £1,000, and the policy excess usually applies, which can make small claims less worthwhile.”

What is rekeying, and is it cheaper than changing locks?

Harrold quickly explains what rekeying means: “Rekeying is the altering of the internal pins of a lock so that old keys no longer work and new keys do.” He adds, “This kind of work is common in commercial/master key systems, which are set up with the need to update keys and locks in mind.”

Dunn reveals how much you can expect to pay, “In UK homes, this often means swapping or re-pinning a cylinder or re-levering a mortice lock. It is typically cheaper than replacing a full mechanism, especially on multipoint doors.”

He adds, “A cylinder change or keyed-alike setup might commonly be £60 to £140 fitted, whereas replacing a full lock or multipoint strip can run £120 to £250 or more, depending on parts and labour.”

Keys and locks are all part of keeping your home and property safe, especially when you're on holiday. Check out our guide on home security when you’re on holiday to see what you should do. If you want to upgrade your home security, check our guides on the best home security systems and home security system costs.

I love my window shutters. As well as giving my sash windows a stylish finish, they also help with the opposing sides of one issue – heat loss and heat gain.

But, when I shared this extra shutter tip the other day with some colleagues, I was surprised to discover it wasn't as well known as I'd thought.

So, in the interests of making everyone's homes warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, I'm going to share the window shutter tip that my installer shared with me when fitting them in my home. The good news is, it doesn't require any extra tools, it's totally free and is backed up by experts too.

The shutter tip you can use all year round

As well as choosing shutters to help with privacy and acoustic issues (I live on a main high street and wanted to reduce the outdoor noise levels), I also wanted them to help reduce the heat loss through my single glazed windows.

Buying a listed building meant I was unlikely to get approval to replace the sash windows with double glazed units. Using a more solid window covering such as shutters, rather than blinds or curtains, also felt like a more effective way of preventing heat escaping through the single glazing.

When I explained this to the installer, he shared with me a piece of advice that transformed how I used my shutters – not just in winter, but in the summer too.

Flipping your slats up, not down, is the key to efficient window shutters

Most window shutters are fitted with slats that can be tilted up or down. While it's often instinctive to push them downwards, it's where most of us make the biggest mistake.

It's common practise to install radiators under windows in UK homes, and as science teaches us in school, heat rises, which is how it permeates into a room to warm the inhabitants.

But – and here's where the crux of the problem lies – when you push shutter slats down, it inevitably leaves a small gap in between each slat. So, when the heat from the radiator rises, if there's a gap (as there will be), it's going to leak into the space between the window and the shutter. This means the heat, particularly when you have single rather than double glazing, is heading outside, rather than staying inside.

"Angling your shutter slats upwards in winter is definitely a simple but effective way to reduce heat loss," confirms Simon Browne, national training manager at Luxaflex. "Warm air naturally rises. When the slats are tilted upwards, that rising heat meets the solid face of the shutter rather than escaping through the gaps between the louvres. It effectively creates a barrier that helps keeps more warmth in the room."

And, there's no doubt it works. I've tested it, sitting next to my shutters with the slats flipped down is far draughtier than with them closed – even when I've checked that my window draught proofing is up to scratch.

As an added bonus, it helps in summer too

The same 'upwards close' rule applies in summer too. While it would be easy to think that the gap will help keep your room cooler, it's not always the case.

"This same principle also helps as temperatures ramp up," confirms Simon. "Tilting the slats upwards during hot weather stops high angle sunlight from entering the room, which helps reduce glare and heat build up. It’s a small adjustment, but it can make a noticeable difference to comfort levels and overheating."

Have shutters in your bedroom and struggle to sleep when it's light? Tilting upwards can help you with this problem too.

"If you run your hand gently upwards across the slats when closing them, you encourage all the louvres to settle into the tightest possible closed position," explains Simon. "This minimises the micro gaps between each slat, which significantly improves room darkening for sleep or evening privacy. This works because shutters rely on each individual slat sitting flush with its neighbour, and a smooth upward sweep ensures perfect alignment."

Shop for window shutters

Try these other handy shutter tips and tricks

While I love my shutters, and my flat, I've decided it's time to move on. So, if like me, you're staging a home to sell, these other handy shutter tips from Simon Browne could serve you well.

1. For perfectly uniform, ‘show-home’ alignment adjust slats from the centre: A quick insider trick is to slip your hand between the slats from the middle of the panel and gently nudge them into line. This helps every louvre match the tilt angle exactly, giving the shutters that crisp, uniform look designers love. It takes seconds and makes a big visual difference, from the outside as well as indoors. This is especially helpful for wider windows or shutters that get opened and closed frequently.
2. Choose your slat direction based on the view you want: If you want privacy but still want to see out, angle the slats downwards during the day. This shields you from passers-by while still allowing natural light in. Or, if viewing in summer and you want fresh air coming in, tilt slats upwards so fresh air flows in but the view from outside is still restricted.
3. Maintain your shutters with a simple dry dusting routine: A soft microfibre cloth is all you need. Always dust from the centre outwards to avoid twisting the louvres and never use abrasive products on painted shutters.

Use these to keep your shutters in pristine condition

So, to leave you in no doubt about which way to tilt your shutter slats, remember this following simple equation:

Upwards slats = heat retention + blocked sunlight

Downwards slats = privacy + ambient daylight

And one final piece of free advice? This tip also works with venetian blinds too. If you're looking to upgrade your window coverings, find out if window shutter costs fit within your budget. Or, it's your windows that are in need of an overhaul, discover how much to set aside for new window costs.

Whether it’s the result of DIY mistakes or natural movement over time, a sagging internal door is a problem that needs fixing. It can cause a door stick to stick, rub against the frame or fail to latch – which is a nuisance every day, and a potential safety hazard when reliable access is critical.

“Internal doors sag for a handful of reasons, and most of them come down to either the hinges or the building itself,” says Luke Bowes of The Door Company UK.

“Loose or worn hinges and screws are probably the most common culprit – over time they can wear or lose their grip, and the door starts to drop. You’ve also got things like seasonal movement, where timber expands and contracts with changes in humidity, which can gradually throw a door out of alignment.

“Older properties especially tend to suffer from general building settlement, where the frame shifts slightly and takes the door with it. And poor installation from the outset is another cause worth mentioning,” he adds.

According to Guy Davies, Owner of GLD Joinery, many of the problems leading to a ‘dropped door’ that sags in the frame are down to installation errors.

“If you look at the hinge and see that it’s failed, that’s often because the joiner has fit the wrong hinges,” he says. “In other cases, they might not have put the right fixings in, so the screws have come loose. Swelling in the door is another potential cause, especially if the room has been freshly plastered after installation.”

The solutions for a sagging door range from quick fixes with a screwdriver to challenging carpentry tasks. This article explains how to fix some of the most common causes of a door sagging – and when you might need to call in a professional.

Diagnosis: how to identify why your internal door is sagging

First, visually check the door and identify exactly where it is rubbing against the door frame. Is the point of friction on the jamb (the side of the frame where hinges are mounted), at the opposite side, or at the top or bottom of the frame?

“Open and close the door slowly and see where it’s catching or dragging,” says Bowes. “If it’s scraping along the bottom or catching at the latch side, that’s usually a sign that the door has dropped at the hinge side.”

Next, inspect the hinges and check for loose screws, gaps between the hinge and the door or door frame, or other signs that the hinge is not securely attached. The top hinge of a door takes more weight than the lower hinge(s), so this is a likely problem area. “Give the hinges a visual inspection and then try to wiggle the door gently; any movement when it shouldn’t move suggests loose screws or worn hinge leaves,” says Bowes.

In some cases, the door might not be perfectly sized for the frame. This can occur for various reasons, including imperfect installation of the door frame or movement in the surrounding structure (especially in period properties). “It’s worth checking the frame with a spirit level to see whether the issue is the door itself or the structure around it,” Bowes advises. “Shining a torch around the edge of the door in a darkened room can help you spot uneven gaps, which tells you a lot about where the misalignment is coming from.”

Step-by-step fixes for a sagging internal door

Method 1: tighten or replace the screws

The simplest solution for a sagging door is to adjust the screws where the hinge attaches to the door frame.

“This is always the first port of call because it’s the quickest fix and it solves the problem more often than you’d expect,” says Bowes.

“Remove one hinge screw at a time, and if it spins freely rather than biting, the hole has stripped. A short-term fix is to pack the hole with matchsticks and wood glue, let it dry, then refit the screw; it sounds a bit old school but it genuinely works.”

If the drive of a screw has become stripped, so you cannot gain purchase on it to turn the screw, then you might need to drill out the screw using a metal drill bit (meaning a drill bit that’s designed for drilling into metal).

“For a more robust repair, rather than going straight for longer screws (which come with larger heads that can create their own alignment issues), a better option is to reposition the hinge slightly on the frame, provided the frame itself is in good condition – even moving it by 10-15mm gives you fresh timber to bite into and a much cleaner result,” says Bowes.

“Fill the old screw holes with wood filler, let it dry, and you’re good to go. If the hinge leaf itself is worn or bent, just replace it; they’re cheap and it’s not worth trying to work around a hinge that’s past its best.”

Method 2: shim the hinges to improve alignment

Surprisingly often, the best solution to a household problem is to pack an ill-fitting component with a thin sliver of material called a shim. You can make your own shims by cutting off thin pieces of timber, or you can buy ready-made shims from a hardware retailer.

“Shimming is useful when the hinge recesses have been cut too deep, causing the door to sit proud on the hinge side and bind on the latch side,” says Bowes. “The fix is straightforward: remove the hinge, cut a thin piece of card or hardboard to the same size as the hinge leaf, and place it in the recess before refitting.

“You may need to experiment with the thickness to get the alignment right, so it’s worth starting thin and building up. It’s a small adjustment, but getting it right makes a noticeable difference to how the door hangs and closes.”

Davies suggests an alternative solution: refitting the hinge. “If there’s an even gap around the casing and there’s enough room in the frame, you can knock the hinge further in or replace it. Or, you can chop a bit of timber out of the casing to make room to refit the hinge – I do this with a hammer and a 25mm Marples chisel,” he says.

Method 3: adjust the strike plate

The strike plate is the metal panel on a door jamb that accepts the latch or bolt from the door itself. In some cases, this component causes problems with a door’s fit.

“If the door is catching on the latch or not closing properly but the door itself seems reasonably well aligned, the strike plate is often the issue rather than the hinges,” says Bowes.

“First, check whether the latch bolt is lining up with the hole in the plate; putting lipstick or chalk on the latch face is an old trick for marking exactly where it’s hitting.

“If it’s slightly out, you can often just file the strike plate opening to give a bit more room. If it’s more significantly misaligned, remove the plate, chisel out the recess a little in the right direction, and refit it in the corrected position. Fill the old screw holes if they no longer line up, and you’re good to go.”

Method 4: plane or sand the door

If you’ve considered all of the above options and you’ve concluded that the reason for your door’s fit issue is the dimensions of the door itself, then you might choose to plane or sand the door.

“Planing or sanding should really be a last resort once you’ve ruled out hinge and hardware issues, because you’re removing material you can’t put back,” says Bowes.

“If you do need to go down this route, take the door off its hinges and mark clearly where it’s binding – chalk or a pencil rubbed along the frame works well. Use a hand plane or belt sander and work gradually, checking frequently to avoid taking off too much material. If you’re planing the bottom of the door, a belt sander on the floor can be easier than using a plane.

“Bear in mind that if the sagging is caused by seasonal movement, the door might free up on its own in drier conditions, so it’s worth waiting a season before you start removing material permanently,” he adds.

Useful tools for fixing issues with internal door fit:

FAQs

When should I call a professional to fix a sagging internal door?

Many joiners, carpenters and door specialists provide door maintenance services, and in some cases it’s best to get this household problem fixed by one of these experts.

However, Davies of GLD Joinery recommends giving this DIY project a go, before you call in the pros.

“Always have a go yourself before calling someone in, because you can save some money if you can manage it DIY,” he says. “If you can’t sort the hinge out or there’s another problem that you can’t figure out, that’s when to get help.”

Can a sagging internal door get worse or lead to other problems?

“A sagging door definitely has knock-on effects,” says Davies. “It can start taking paint off where the door is rubbing, and it might start loosening the handle, causing the fixings that hold the handle together to fail.”

When a door sags, this tends to place additional strain (through gravity) on the successfully installed fixings that are bearing its weight, so these may also be affected.

Are there cases where a sagging internal door needs to be replaced rather than fixed?

In some cases, sagging is a sign that a door requires replacement, rather than repairs.

“If the door frame itself is rotten, badly warped, or structurally compromised, no amount of adjusting the door will fix the root cause, and in these cases, you may need to look at replacing the frame,” says Bowes.

“Similarly, if there’s significant building movement or damp driving the issue, you need that addressed. Also, very old or damaged doors that have been planed repeatedly over the years can reach a point where there simply isn’t enough material left to work with, and replacement is the practical call.

“If you’re dealing with fire doors, it’s especially important to get a professional involved; they need to meet specific performance standards, and a poorly hanging fire door could be a safety and compliance issue.”

If you can fix a sagging door, then you're more than capable of solving all sorts of DIY problems for yourself. For more guidance on common fixes, read our guides on how to replace a door lock, fitting a toilet seat and how to change a light switch cover.

Royal Mail says it may pause deliveries if a property “does not provide a safe delivery point,” which includes hazards at the front door such as obstructed steps, loose paving, poor lighting or an access route that can’t be safely reached.

Over the festive period, when postal workers make significantly more doorstep visits, simple changes at the entrance of a home can make a big difference to safety.

Royal Mail’s guidance urges customers to review their front-door layout, access paths and delivery point to avoid interruptions.

When your property layout stops the postie

Royal Mail’s official Delivery Exceptions page makes clear that delivery may stop where a property “does not provide a safe delivery point,” listing health and safety, insecurity, difficulty of access, customer request and public holidays as grounds for non-delivery.

This means hazards such as blocked paths, unstable steps, unlevel gardens, obstructed driveway gates, poorly lit areas or renovation-related access problems may all fall within its “difficulty of access” criteria if they prevent safe delivery.

Royal Mail’s published rules give it the right to pause deliveries until the customer provides a safe access route and a safe delivery point.

Dogs and other immediate threats to postal workers

In its dog-safety information, Royal Mail confirms 2,197 dog attacks on staff in the year to 31 March 2025, with some resulting in “permanent and disabling injuries.”

Almost half of all attacks (46%) occurred at the front door, with many others taking place in gardens and driveways. Royal Mail warns: “Even the most lovable dog can be a danger to postal workers. Dogs are territorial by nature and if they feel they need to protect their family, they can become unpredictable.”

It urges households to ensure pets are secured before opening the door to a postal worker.

What Royal Mail says householders should do

Royal Mail provides several clear, published instructions for making homes safer for deliveries. The following measures come directly from Royal Mail’s customer guidance and dog-awareness materials:

• Keep dogs secured before the postie arrives. Royal Mail says: “Please help us to deliver your post safely by keeping your dog secure and out of the way before the post person arrives.”
• Use a letter cage to prevent bites or injuries if your dog can reach the letterbox.
• Install an external delivery point if your dog frequently interferes with mail at the door. Adding a mailbox to the front of your house or a front garden wall is an option.
• Do not open the door to receive mail if your dog is loose behind you – secure it first.
• Ensure the delivery point is safe, as Royal Mail warns: “Your mail can be suspended if a safe delivery point is not provided.”
• Remove obstructions or hazards that make it difficult for the postie to reach your delivery point safely (as covered under Royal Mail’s “difficulty of access” rule).

Quick buys to make deliveries safer

Following some simple measures, as suggested by Royal Mail’s guidance, will help to ensure deliveries to your front door remain uninterrupted, even at the busiest time of year.

If you've invested in a new porch or front door, the changes are you've suddenly realised you don't know the best way to hang a wreath on your front door. In fact it's entirely possible your inner Grinch has entered the room at the thought of sticky tape or nails coming anywhere near your precious new entrance.

So what is the best way to hang a wreath on a front door? Does it depend on the material, or is there a fail-safe method that anyone can use? And, is there ever a time when you need to accept your front door wreath may no longer be an option?

We asked leading door experts for their top tips and tricks so you can make sure you know the best way to hang a wreath on your front door without risking any damage or costly repairs.

How not to hang a wreath on a front door

As front doors aren't made from the same material, there isn't one set answer to the question, "what is the best way to hang a wreath on the front door". It really does come down to what your door is made from, and how it is constructed.

And, in some cases, there might not ever be a solution that works, or one that you're comfortable with. Instead, you might need to look at other front door and porch decor ideas.

But, while there isn't one best way, there is one rule to adhere to when it comes to a avoiding new front door costs, and that's the best way not to hang a wreath on your front door.

"Drilling or hammering directly into your door can cause long-term damage or compromise insulation and seals," warns Jade Oliver, home stylist from Express Bi-Folding Doors. "Always choose non-invasive methods like adhesive hooks, suction cups, or ribbons."

"Some contemporary doors also can't have anything at all obstructing the drop down weather seals," adds Elizabeth Assef, co-founder and designer at leading door supplier, Urban Front, who finds herself facing this issue every year. "If this applies to you, make sure you remember that nothing can be tied around them, or they won't work properly."

Best ways to hang a wreath by door type

So, hammer and nails to one side, and weather seals checked, what are the best ways to hang a wreath on your front door to avoid damage and bring some festive cheer to your home?

We breakdown your options by door material and design.

1. Composite doors

"Composite doors are one of the most popular styles in modern homes," says Jade Oliver, "but using traditional metal over the door hangers for wreaths can damage the weather seal and affect the door's performance," she warns.

Instead, try these following techniques:

• Hang with a ribbon: For a stylish and safe option, use a ribbon to hang your wreath. If your door has front door furniture such as a knocker, then simply loop the ribbon through your wreath and tie it securely to the knocker. If your door doesn't have a knocker, loop the ribbon over the top of the door and secure it inside with a sticky or magnetic hook. This keeps the door's surface completely free of marks.
• Use suction cups: Suction hooks are another excellent choice for composite or glass doors. They are discreet, easy to remove, and won't leave behind residue or damage. Make sure you buy high-quality suction cups that can hold around 3kg to ensure your wreath stays put, even in bad weather.

Or, if you haven't bought a new door yet, but love decorating your entrance, there's a clever new invention from Everest that might pique your interest, says Anthony Threlfall, head of marketing at Everest.

The company have developed an elegant solution for their signature composite door range called the Magic Wreath Holder.

“Two powerful magnets are built into the door's structure, hidden beneath the durable skin. This allows you to affix your wreath using a discreet external magnet, ensuring a secure hold without any risk of scratches or marks,” says Anthony.

“It is a subtle detail that makes a significant difference, keeping your entrance pristine and ensuring your home’s kerb appeal remains flawless,” adds Anthony.

Shop for wreath hanging solutions

2. Wooden or glass doors

"Wooden and glass doors both need a little extra care to avoid any chips, scratches or peeling paint," explains Jade Oliver, suggesting the following techniques:

• Over-the-door hanger: Over the door hangers are one of the simplest solutions. They fit most door types, just do not use them on composite doors as it can damage the seal and performance of the door. Over the door hangers take seconds to install and can even add a decorative touch with festive red or metallic finishes.
• Command hooks: Adhesive hooks, such as the Command Outdoor Large Nickel Hook from Amazon can work well. Just make sure the surface is clean and dry to allow the adhesive bond before hanging, and avoid sticking them to painted areas. Make sure you use suction or command style hooks directly on the glass, not on frames.

3. Aluminium or steel doors

For certain metal doors, magnetic hooks, such as the heavy duty Findmag 3 pack Metal Magnetic Hooks from Amazon, can be a great option, but I would add that you need to be extra careful when adding or removing the magnet.

I have used heavyweight magnetic towel hooks on a chrome finish towel radiator and the shiny, mirror like surface means that they have unavoidably left scratch marks on the surface when moved around.

4. uPVC front doors

Displaying a wreath should be simple and stress-free without putting the integrity of your door at risk.

“Traditional options like drilling, sticky adhesives, or bulky over-door hangers can cause damage or take away from the clean, polished look of your entryway. You still want to invite people over after the festive season is long and gone, so you need to be smart when hanging a wreath on your door,” says Anthony Threlfall.

“Always avoid nails, screws, or anything that pierces the surface. Instead, add a felt or foam backing to your wreath to prevent scratches from movement in windy weather, and make sure it isn’t too heavy for the hook you’re using. If you’re using ribbon, loop it over the door rather than attaching it directly to the surface to prevent scuffs," he adds.

Tips for hanging a wreath on your front door

Before you start the process of hanging a wreath on your front door, it's also important you undertake some initial preparation advises Jade Oliver.

1. Check the weight of your wreath: Before hanging, weigh your wreath (or estimate its weight) to ensure your chosen hanger, hook, or suction cup can hold the weight of your wreath.
2. Clean the surface first: Wipe down the door to remove any dirt or dust before attaching suction or adhesive hooks. A clean, dry surface ensures a stronger hold and prevents any residue.

Alternative ideas to hanging a wreath on your front door

If, like Elizabeth Assaf you'd rather not risk hanging a wreath on your front door in any shape or form, then don't worry, you can still dress your entrance for Christmas.

"It's always a hot topic in the office," Elizabeth tells us, "and I'm currently just about to decorate my own door and I can't touch it with anything. So, if this is the case for you too, here's my list of fail-safe ideas for Christmas porch and front door decor."

8 safe Christmas front door decorating ideas

1. Think doorscapes: Decorate around the door instead of the door itself. I've found this is always the best way to decorate. For instance if you have a plant by the door, decorate that with baubles or ribbons or lights.
2. Use larger scale items: Place large items next to the door to create the festive feel, such as a nutcracker statue or a large bauble.
3. Lightweight items are your friend: Hang things that are very light (such as foam based decoration) from the top of the door edge, or use Christmas wreath hooks or ribbon decorations that go around the door. Bows are big for this year which makes this idea very on trend.
4. Hang from inside: I have also tied ribbons to the inside handle that then hang over to the other side to hang a wreath – although as noted, this won't work for weatherseals
5. Decorate your handle instead of the door: f you have a large door knob it's easy to hang a wreath off this. Or, a long pull handle can have greenery or sparkly strings wrapped around it, or hung in parallel by tying items to the top and bottom.
6. Use your canopy/overhang or small porch: If you have a roof of any kind, hang things from the underside of the canopy such as baubles in different sizes.
7. Use the glazing on your sidelight: If you have a glazed sidelight, decorate this instead
8. Use available wall space: I've also used the wall above the door area, to insert a hook and then hang things downwards - not in the open door area so that they frame the door instead

Shop these alternative Christmas decor ideas

Our final tips for making sure your front door remains protected from damage? If you live in an exposed location, or don't have porch ideas providing some protection to your front door, I'd also suggest you make sure that the wreath you use, really is waterproof. The last thing you need is colours seeping out of it when it rains and the dye damaging you door or the steps to your front door.

I wake up to condensation in my bedroom most mornings, but having one of the best window vacs has been a real game-changer, cleaning water off the glass in seconds and leaving it dry and streak-free.

Not only do these nifty little devices help clear window condensation, but they're also fantastic for cleaning other surfaces, such as mirrors, shower screens and tiles, helping you achieve a perfect finish.

Here at Homebuilding & Renovating, we've been on the hunt for the very best window vacs on the market and have rounded up five of our favourite picks below, with the Karcher WV 6 Plus scoring top points for its long-lasting runtime and high-quality build.

The Quick List

Tight for time? Here's a brief overview of the best window vacs, along with jump links to their full descriptions.

The best window vac overall

Being the original inventor of the window vac, it’s no surprise that Kärcher’s Window Vac WV 6 Plus is our top pick overall. This device has loads of impressive features, but the most outstanding is its 100-minute running time, which knocks the other options in this guide out of the park.

As well as the window vac itself, you’ll also receive an additional narrow suction nozzle to help you get into smaller gaps – super handy if you have panelled windows or want to get right up to the seal.

Once you’ve sucked away the condensation, you’ll also be able to give the glass a good clean, as this window vac comes with a microfibre cloth that attaches to a spray bottle – perfect for scrubbing away those pesky smears. Kärcher has also thrown in a sachet of 20ml glass-cleaning concentrate to get you started.

Priced at £85, this is more expensive than the other options in this guide, but we think it’s worth the investment thanks to its long-lasting run time, multiple attachments, and low battery indicator. If that’s too expensive for your budget, I’d recommend the Daewoo Hurricane ClearVac Window Cleaner as a good, cheaper alternative.

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The best affordable window vac

Costing under £30, we were blown away by this window vac's price tag and performance when Homebuilding’s Assistant Editor, Sarah Harley, put it to the test.

After using it on her condensation-ridden windows, she was very happy with the results and said it cleared the moisture effectively: “It removes the water and leaves the window pretty much streak-free.”

While this window vac is an excellent choice for large windows, Sarah noted that it might not be the best option for multi-panel sash windows like hers, as “the blade is too large to make it as quick and easy a job as it could be.”

Weighing 900 grams, Sarah said the machine was lightweight to hold and easy to use – though it’s worth bearing in mind that the handle is smooth, with no additional grip features. It holds up to 60ml of water (significantly less than the Kärcher model), which Sarah notes can fill up quite quickly. As for the noise levels, it was louder than she had expected, given its smaller size.

She says, “The biggest learning curve when using it was discovering that you have to keep it upright the whole time you use it. The minute you start to tilt it too far, the water starts to come out of the container.

“It may be that this is the same on other models, but I had naively assumed I’d be able to twist and turn it as I needed to. It’s why using it on multi-panel windows isn’t ideal, as I’m not able to get as much into the corners as I would like.”

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The best window vac cleaning kit

If you want to tackle condensation and dirty windows at the same time, the Daewoo Hurricane ClearVac Window Cleaner is the one for you. The device comes with a microfibre cloth that attaches to a spray bottle – similar to the Kärcher model, but at a fraction of the price.

This window vac has an impressive 300ml water tank capacity, which is significantly higher than the Beldray model, meaning you won't have to empty it so frequently. I love how it detaches from the base, so when you do need to clean it out, you can do so easily and quickly.

The device has a 30-minute running time and a lightweight design, making it very easy to work with. It doesn't have a grip pad, but since it has a D-shape handle, this didn't cause me any issues.

The window vac left my glass completely streak-free, and when it came to my weekly cleaning, the microfibre cloth and bottle made the job a lot easier – helping me get into the corners and reach a little farther than I usually can. You do have to go back and forth quite a bit, but I still enjoy using it and like the end result.

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The best premium window vac

Unlike other window vacs we've tested, this model from Vileda offers two power modes: a lower suction setting if you want to save the battery, and a higher suction setting for when you're working with a lot of water and need to get the job done quickly. According to the brand, the ‘max’ setting offers 50% more suction than competitor products.

To find out whether it's any good, Homebuilding's former Deputy Editor, Michelle Guy, put it to the test on her single-glazed windows to see if it could get rid of the condensation.

She was impressed with its lightweight, portable design, which is easy to use on the go, and praised how quickly it removed the water. However, she warns that the ‘max’ line is there for a reason – if the liquid exceeds this level, it will start to drip out if you turn the vac to the side.

The device comes with a removable, dishwasher-friendly water tank, making it easy and convenient to clean. In terms of sound, Michelle commented that it wasn’t very noisy and comparable to the volume of a small low-voltage car vacuum.

Her favourite feature is the flexible neck, which helped her quickly reach excess water that had pooled down the frame and press harder to suck up the condensation. Compared to the Beldray model, this one worked much better when used side to side – useful to note if this is how you plan to use it (just make sure the water tank stays below the max line).

There may be cheaper options out there, but Michelle was very happy with the results and has added it to her everyday routine.

Read our full Vileda Windomatic Power Window Vac review

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The best window vac for hard-to-reach areas

If you have hard-to-reach windows, like skylights, this Swan window vac is our top pick, as it comes with an extension pole to make the job easier. Not only does this save you from standing on a chair and risking a fall, but it also gets the job done in half the time.

As well as the vac itself and the extension pole, you'll also receive a spray bottle, a cloth holder, and two washable microfibre cloths, so you'll have everything you need to get started.

The water tank is the largest of all the options in this guide, holding 350 ml of liquid, which saves you from having to constantly empty it. The device works well on a range of surfaces, including windows, tiles, showers and oven doors, with a running time of 35 minutes from a three-hour charge. This isn't the longest option we've seen, so if you plan on doing a heavy day of cleaning, the Kärcher model will work better for you.

Amazon reviewers have praised the vac's lightweight design and how much quicker it makes cleaning and clearing condensation. One commented that it has made her life "so easy" when it comes to wiping her skylights and patio doors.

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How we tested the best window vacs

To help you find the best window vac, we scoured every major retailer and considered the specs, reviews and overall value for money. After narrowing the selection down to five options, we tested them in our own homes, taking the following factors into consideration:

• How effectively did the window vac remove water and leave a streak-free finish?
• How easy was the window vac to hold, move and operate, including grip and weight?
• How convenient is the water tank, in terms of capacity, emptying, and drip prevention?
• How long does the battery last?

For more information on our procedure, read our dedicated page on how we test products.

Who tested the best window vacs?

Wondering who's behind these reviews? Meet our testing team below:

How to choose the best window vacs

When it comes to choosing the best window vac, Katie Lilywhite, vacuum expert at AO, says to consider the following things:

1. Battery life and charge time: "You’ll want enough run time to handle your home’s windows without the battery giving up halfway – make sure that 20 or 30 minutes is feasible."

2. Suction power: Before you make your purchase, check the device’s suction power, as "this will determine how streak-free the finish is."

3. Water tank size: "Another tip is to check the water tank and making sure this is big enough to handle your windows. This means you’ll have fewer trips to the sink even if you have heavy window condensation this winter.”

Still feeling undecided? Here's a quick comparison of the models in this guide:

FAQs

How do window vacs work?

“Window vacuums are essentially a handheld vacuum squeegee designed to suck moisture off smooth surfaces," Katie Lilywhite, vacuum expert at AO, explains.

"You spray your window, tiles, shower screen or perhaps mirror then wipe down with your window vac’s squeegee blade and the vacuum hoovers up the water before it can drip. This is all powered by a tiny motor that creates suction which pulls dirty water into a small tank, leaving your windows clean and dry.”

Do window vacs work for removing condensation?

Yes, window vacs do an excellent job at removing window condensation, and according to Katie Lilywhite, this is the main reason most people buy them.

She explains, "Window vacs remove moisture instantly so it can’t drip onto your windowsill or soak into the walls. This makes them super effective at tackling condensation and far quicker than if you were to wipe your window with a cloth. They’re also non-streak so you won’t end up smearing the water around and can help quicken up that cold morning clean up as we get closer to winter."

The best window vacs are a good solution, but if you want to tackle the root of the problem, read our guide on how to solve condensation and how to prevent condensation on your windows.

Edited by Beth Murton.

As the weather gets colder, you might be wondering if you should wipe condensation off your windows. With so many divided opinions on the internet, it can be tricky to know what to do about it – or if you should do anything at all!

Window condensation is very common and occurs when the warm air inside your home comes into contact with cold glass. While it's more prevalent during the winter months, when the temperature outside is lower, it can happen at any time of year – so it's a good idea to know the best solution.

To find out whether you should wipe the condensation off or just leave it be, we spoke with experts to hear their advice.

Should I wipe condensation off windows?

Yes, you should wipe condensation off your windows. In fact, if this happens regularly, it's a good idea to get into the habit of removing it every single day, recommends Stephen Hankinson, Heating Expert at Electric Radiators Direct.

Whether you use a microfiber cloth or a window vac, wiping the condensation will take only a few minutes but will help prevent common household problems, such as damp, from occurring.

Stephen adds, "As well as wiping away condensation on your windows, I recommend opening your windows every morning, even if it’s just for five minutes. Regularly opening windows can improve the ventilation inside of your home, creating fresh airflow and decreasing the humidity of the room.

"Plenty of houses now have trickle vents, especially new builds, which are designed to create ventilation and are a useful way of reducing condensation and bringing fresh air into the house. It is recommended to keep them open frequently throughout winter if you can."

Combat window condensation with our top shopping picks

How often should I wipe condensation off?

To prevent problems in your home, such as mould on windows and rotten frames, Homebuilding's editor Beth Murton recommends wiping your window condensation every day.

It's most common during the early hours of the morning or late at night, so be sure to keep an eye out during these periods.

What happens if you leave condensation on windows?

Since window condensation is something we see so regularly, it might not feel like a big problem that needs to be fixed. But according to Stephen Hankinson, it can actually lead to mould and mildew if left unchecked, which as we know, can cause serious health problems.

Homebuilding's Assistant Editor, Sarah Harley, can vouch for this. After learning from personal experience, she advises never leaving condensation on your windows for longer than necessary – or you'll face bigger problems in the long run.

She says, "Firstly you'll end up with pools of water that have nowhere to go and end up dripping onto floors or window sills. It's really not something you can ignore as it won't simply disappear.

"Secondly, it's not just about wiping it off, it's also about clearing it properly, as if you don't over time, the residual moisture builds up and black mould spores will appear. How do I know? Because I've had this problem on my windows.

"I have multi-panel, single-glazed sash windows, and winter brings with it a whole new condensation-busting morning routine. If I don't have my bedroom dehumidifier (MeacoDry ABC 12L) on overnight so that I can wake with condensation-free windows, it goes on as soon as I wake. Once it has cleared the bulk of the condensation, I then have to make sure I wipe down the wooden framework, as if I don't, mould spores appear after a few weeks."

Wiping your windows is an important step in the battle against condensation, but it’s not the only trick you should have up your sleeve. By using one of the best dehumidifiers, you can help reduce the humidity levels in your home, which can make steamy windows even worse.

If you’re not in a position to make that investment, it’s worth checking out these budget-friendly condensation hacks, which we tested in our own homes.

There's a reason window shutters never go out of style. They have a timeless quality that few other window treatments can match. Whether you favour classic plantation designs or café-style panels, a well-fitted set of shutters will add privacy, warmth and lasting value to your home.

That said, getting to grips with the cost of window shutters can be trickier than you'd expect. Prices often vary depending on the size, material and style you choose, as well as whether you opt for a full professional service or tackle the fitting by yourself.

This guide unpacks what you can expect to spend, where smart savings can be made, and how to measure up with confidence for that perfect, made-to-measure finish, whatever types of windows you're dressing.

How much do window shutters cost?

If you’ve fallen for the look of shutters, you’ll quickly find the price tag varies as much as the designs themselves. Size, style and finish all play a part in what you’ll pay – and so does the decision to hire a professional or fit them yourself. Here’s a straightforward breakdown of what to expect from each style.

Plantation Shutters

The classic choice, plantation shutters are full-height designs with adjustable louvres that offer excellent light and privacy control. According to Lisa O’Hanlon, brand manager at The Shutter Store, the average cost of plantation shutters in the UK ranges from £300 to £500 per m², with a full-service installation typically starting at £450 per m² and upwards.

“If you choose to DIY your installation, you could save up to 40% in installation fees,” she adds. “With self-install shutters, you’re not paying for a team to come and measure and fit them for you – so it’s a great way to make huge savings straight away.”

Your choice of materials will also make a difference to the overall cost. For context, Eric Hargreaves, owner of Your Choice Builders, notes that hardwood full-height shutters tend to start around £700 per window and increase for bespoke designs. MDF or composite versions deliver a similar look for less, while installation adds around 25–35% to the total cost if you opt for a professional service.

“Real wood shutters generally cost more to manufacture because the raw material itself is more expensive,” explains Helen O’Connor, product manager at 247 Blinds. “Real wood is lighter and ideal for large windows where weight matters, while faux wood (PVC) is more moisture-resistant and often slightly more affordable – perfect for kitchens or bathrooms.”

Café-style shutters

For a softer look that still offers privacy where it counts, café-style shutters are a popular choice. Covering only the lower half of a window, they let in plenty of natural light while shielding you from outside view.

According to Yvonne Keal, product expert at Hillarys, prices for café-style shutters generally start from around £250 per window and rise to £600, depending on size, finish and material.

“Café-style designs give you that perfect balance of light and privacy at a lower price point,” she explains. “They’re particularly effective in kitchens and living rooms, where you want to block views in without losing daylight.”

As with full-height designs, materials and finish will influence the cost. MDF and composite shutters tend to sit at the more affordable end of the scale, while hardwood versions offer a premium, long-lasting finish. Opting for DIY installation can also bring savings of up to 40%, though professional fitting may be worth the extra cost if you’re working with uneven walls or trickier bay windows.

Tier-on-tier shutters

Tier-on-tier shutters offer great flexibility, with two sets of panels that open separately so you can adjust light, privacy and ventilation as you need. They’re ideal for rooms that receive strong sunlight, as you can adjust the upper and lower tiers separately throughout the day.

Because they’re more intricate to manufacture and fit, tier-on-tier shutters tend to cost more than simpler styles. Yvonne Keal explains: “Custom shutters typically start from around £454, with prices increasing for larger windows or more complex designs such as tier-on-tier styles.” Expect higher-end versions, particularly those in hardwood or bespoke finishes, to reach £1,000 or more per window.

Installation is another factor to keep in mind. Tier-on-tier shutters require a precise fit to ensure the panels align neatly and operate smoothly, which makes professional fitting a smart choice if you’re not confident with tools. As Eric Hargreaves notes, "small measuring errors or uneven recesses can make installation tricky, so paying for an expert finish may save both time and stress in the long run."

Custom and bespoke shapes

Custom shutters are designed for spaces where standard sizes simply won’t fit, such as bay, arched or unusually shaped windows. They’re made to follow the precise contours of your frames – whether that means a curved top, angled edge or a faceted bay – and that level of precision naturally comes with a higher price tag.

“Custom hardwood shutters are always going to sit at the top end of price,” explains Eric Hargreaves. He notes that bespoke or irregular designs can start around £700 per window and increase to £1000+ depending on the complexity of the shape.

Accuracy is particularly important with these types of window shutters, as even small measuring discrepancies can affect how panels sit and operate. Therefore, professional measuring and installation are often worth the extra investment, as a specialist fitter will ensure each panel aligns perfectly.

For these reasons, custom shutters are among the trickiest and most expensive shutters to fit, but when done well, they often deliver the most impressive results.

The cost difference between DIY and professional fitting

Choosing between fitting shutters yourself or opting for a full professional service often comes down to your level of DIY confidence, the shape of your windows, and your budget. The growing popularity of no-drill and click-to-fit systems has made it easier than ever to achieve a polished, made-to-measure finish without calling in a fitter, and the savings can be substantial.

According to Helen O’Connor from 247 Blinds, "most shutters are priced by the square metre, even if that’s not obvious when browsing online.” A fully fitted installation, she explains, may cost around £300 per m², whereas a DIY supply-only option is typically closer to £200 per m². “So, you’re looking at a saving of around £100 per m², or roughly 30–40%, by fitting them yourself.”

And Chloe Dacosta, design manager at Blinds 2go, agrees that self-installation can offer real value: “By measuring and fitting shutters yourself, you can typically save anywhere from 40–60% compared to professional supply-and-fit options,” she says.

How to measure up (and avoid costly mistakes)

DIY shutters can be a great way to save money, but only if you get the measurements right.

“The main risk with getting measurements wrong is that the shutters simply won’t fit as desired – if at all,” Helen O’Connor cautions. “Even a 2–3mm error can prevent panels from opening properly or cause visible gaps.”

To reduce that risk, Helen recommends measuring in millimetres using a steel tape, recording the smallest of three width and height measurements, and double-checking the recess depth and frame type (L-frame or Z-frame).

If you’re nervous about tackling the job yourself, no-drill systems can offer a middle ground. As Helen explains, “Our Twist&Fit shutters require no drilling and are perfect for renters or first-time DIYers.”

“If you measure correctly, install with care and follow the guidance, your finish can be almost as good as a professional installation – and you’ll gain the cost savings,” Helen concludes. Plus, most confident homeowners can install their shutters within a couple of hours per window by following clear instructions.

If your budget doesn’t quite stretch to shutters, blinds can still bring plenty of style and comfort for less. Well-fitted Roman blinds help keep heat in while maintaining privacy – read our expert guide on how to make a Roman blind for a simple DIY project that feels completely bespoke.

As autumn sets in, British Garden Centres is inviting households across the UK to showcase their creativity by decorating their front doors.

The 'Decorate Your Door for Autumn' competition encourages people to dress their doorsteps with seasonal foliage, wreaths, lanterns and harvest-inspired displays.

With prizes worth up to £500, the contest is a chance to combine style with community spirit.

What is the 'Decorate Your Door' competition?

The 'Decorate Your Door for Autumn' competition is a national challenge designed to celebrate the warmth and colour of the season.

Entrants who impress the judges could win gardening prizes including a British Garden Centres gift card and products from leading brands such as Westland, Evergreen and Gardena.

Winners will also see their designs featured on British Garden Centres’ social media channels, inspiring others to embrace autumn décor.

How to enter

The competition is open now and runs until 12 October.

To take part, households simply need to snap a photo of their autumn-themed doorway and upload it via the British Garden Centres website, or scan the QR code displayed in their nearest British Garden Centres store.

Examples of previous winners

The contest has proven to be popular in recent years, attracting hundreds of entries from across the UK.

Previous winners have provided plenty of front door ideas, including a family in Lincolnshire who created a striking harvest display complete with homegrown pumpkins, and a household in Kent who impressed with a unique front door colours and a doorway framed by berry-laden foliage and lanterns.

Last year’s winning entry in Yorkshire used a mix of dried corn, ivy, and hand-crafted wreaths to transform a simple porch into a showcase of seasonal creativity.

“Doorsteps are often the first impression of any home, so why not make them a celebration of autumn?” said Lucy Hewitt, Marketing Campaigns Manager.

Choosing or changing the colour of your windows might seem like a small design decision, but it's one that can have a big impact on your home’s kerb appeal. If you're in the process of updating original timber frames, replacing older units, or simply starting from scratch, selecting the right shade can enhance your home’s character, complement the materials used, and even increase its value.

From soft heritage tones that suit period properties to deep, dramatic hues perfect for modern homes, there’s a growing appetite for window colour ideas that do more than just blend into your facade. And with expert advice on hand, it’s easier than ever to choose a finish that feels timeless, not trendy.

Here’s how to find a window colour that works with your home and stands out for all the right reasons.

Window colours for your style of property

"When it comes to the look and feel of a home, window colour plays a bigger role than most people realise," says Steve Winscott, director at Nine Zero. "It’s not just about aesthetics either; it’s about respecting the architecture and setting of the property."

He continues: "We always encourage homeowners to think about the style of their property first. A Georgian townhouse or a Victorian terrace will naturally suit more traditional shades – soft greens, warm creams or subtle greys – whereas a more contemporary build might benefit from something bolder, like anthracite or even a deep blue."

"The surroundings matter too. A house in a rural or coastal setting may be better suited to softer, neutral tones that blend into the landscape, while darker, statement colours can work really well in urban environments."

1. Embrace classic white frames

We’ve all heard the phrase, “If it’s not broken, don’t fix it”, and the same could easily apply to crisp white window frames. This timeless choice suits just about every style of property, and works especially well on traditional sash windows, as seen here.

It’s a versatile option that won’t date, and one that blends effortlessly with both red brick and rendered finishes. But if you’re painting timber windows, just be sure to sample a few different tones of white before committing to one specific shade. Some shades have cooler or warmer undertones, which can make all the difference depending on your brickwork or exterior palette.

2. Opt for a contemporary black finish

Want to give your home a sleek, architectural edge? Black window frames are another timeless choice – perfect for adding contrast and definition to both modern new builds and heritage properties with contemporary extensions. “Black can be a bold choice,” says Liam Spencer, MD at Northallerton Glass, “and when used well, it delivers serious impact.”

Black glazing works beautifully across different window styles, from slimline openings to large expanses of glass and even internal windows and Crittall-style doors. It’s especially effective when set against pale or textured materials, as seen here where black aluminium frames bring sharp definition to layered stonework.

3. Go for grounding grey tones on windows and doors

“Grey is still a popular option as it can contrast white or cream rendering,” says Liam Spencer, “and it can subtly complement a wide range of architectural styles while making a home look more modern.”

In this example by Hilarys, deep grey frames pair effortlessly with honey-toned stonework, grounding the façade and adding a sense of polish. A matching front door and garage door complete the look, creating a cohesive colour palette that feels smart yet understated.

4. Outline your windows with pops of vivid colour

Outlining your windows in a vivid colour – such as orange, yellow or electric blue – is a brilliant way to add personality and impact to a contemporary space.

In this vibrant open-plan kitchen extension, it’s the bold orange-framed windows and sliding doors that really steal the show. The colour choice didn’t come out of nowhere, though. It was inspired by the homeowners’ dream of owning an orange Lacanche oven. Once that statement piece was chosen, everything else followed.

“The client fell in love with the Lacanche and wanted the doors to echo that statement shade,” explains Alex Main director at The Main Company. From there, they took the colour cue to the next level, choosing striking sliding doors in the same zesty tone from Maxlight. The result is a joyful, design-led space where the colour scheme feels completely intentional.

5. Swap classic shades for something more bespoke

Choosing an offbeat window colour can be a clever way to make your extension feel more considered and design-led. In this example by Nine Zero, a bronze-toned window frame brings warmth and personality to an otherwise minimal palette. It’s a subtle but impactful way to contrast the windows and doors against the black cladding.

Colours like khaki, bronze, and olive are a stylish step away from the more typical black or grey, but they’re still earthy enough to feel timeless (particularly when picked up in surrounding details like planting, outdoor furniture or lighting). If you’re unsure about going bold with a primary colour, these more grounded hues are a sophisticated middle ground that still allows your glazing to stand out.

6. Use stained glass to add colour and character

Who says colour has to stay on the window frames? Stained glass is a classic detail that’s enjoying a well-deserved revival, especially in period homes where it can echo existing features like tiled hallways, decorative cornicing or painted panelling. Even a small panel above a door can make a surprising impact.

If bespoke stained glass isn’t in the budget, there are plenty of DIY alternatives. Static cling window films and stained glass-effect stickers have come a long way, offering a surprisingly realistic finish without the high price tag. They’re easy to apply, easy to remove, and perfect for rented homes or anyone wanting to experiment with colour and pattern before committing to the real thing.

7. Contrast window colours between the main house and the extension

When extending a period property, matching old and new isn’t your only option. In fact, choosing a contrasting design – including a different window colour – can help highlight the architectural evolution of the home and draw a clear distinction between original and modern elements.

In this example, the traditional red-brick home keeps its classic, white-painted windows, while the modern rear extension introduces sleek black frames for a striking contrast. The mix brings a fresh, updated feel to the back of the house without losing any of the original charm.

8. Try soft greens for rural homes and cottages

If you're renovating or extending a home in a countryside setting, soft greens can be a lovely alternative to white or grey window frames. These gentle, heritage-inspired tones – such as sage, olive or Cotswold green – sit comfortably within natural landscapes and often pair beautifully with timber cladding, stone or rustic brickwork.

“A house in a rural or coastal setting may be better suited to softer, neutral tones that blend into the landscape,” explains Steve Winscott, director at Nine Zero, “while darker, statement colours can work really well in urban environments.”

9. Paint your window shutters for a pop of colour without painting frames

If you’re not quite ready to commit to full-colour window frames, painting your window shutters is a brilliant workaround. Whether you're dealing with a listed home, planning restrictions, or you simply want a more flexible approach, window shutters offer a fantastic blank canvas to work with.

This colourful coastal home features vivid coral shutters that contrast against the pastel blue cladding. But you don’t have to stick to sweetshop shades to make this technique work. Choosing a complementary tone that ties in with your front door or cladding can create a more subtle effect, or go bold with a high-contrast hue for a look that seriously stands out.

10. Paint and contrast interior windows to make them 'pop'

Painting your interior window frames in a contrasting colour is a brilliant way to add definition and depth to a room (especially if you're working with lighter walls). While many people default to white window frames on the inside of their home, choosing a deeper or unexpected tone can turn a functional feature into a standout detail. For example, in this high-ceilinged space, inky green-black frames mirror the dark ceiling, anchoring the room and creating a strong ‘visual rhythm’. Try this technique if you want to highlight original window shapes without relying on curtains or blinds.

11. Colour drench your frames and walls

Colour drenching is a painting technique that takes a single shade across walls, window frames and trim for a strong, unified look. It’s an effective way to give your windows more presence – both inside and out – and can help tie architectural details into the overall design scheme.

In this striking living room, everything from the walls to the window frames is painted in a rich terracotta shade. The result is warm and enveloping, making the space feel calm and cocoon-like. If you’re drawn to deeper tones but unsure how to use them, carrying one colour across walls and windows is a smart way to dial up the drama without it feeling overpowering.

Outside, this same approach can help tone down fussy details or boxy shapes. One colour across exterior walls, windows and doors brings a sharper finish and lets the shape of the building do the talking.

FAQs

Are there rules or restrictions around window colours in conservation areas or listed buildings?

“Rules and restrictions often apply to listed buildings, which is why many homeowners opt for secondary glazing over replacing their windows," explains Kevin Brown, MD at The Heritage Window Company."This means they can improve insulation and make the internal window the colour/style they prefer without having to physically replace the protected window.”

"With all instances of home renovations and older properties, you must check with your local conservation team before making a decision," he adds. "You may find unique rules apply to your home that you were not anticipating.”

How do you maintain painted timber windows?

“Timber windows, when finished properly, offer more than just aesthetic appeal, they offer real longevity,” says Steve Winscott, director at Nine Zero. “Using a high-quality microporous coating that flexes with the timber helps protect against UV damage, moisture and general wear. With regular care – a gentle clean once a year and checks for chips or cracks – they can stay looking their best for decades. Catching small imperfections early makes all the difference when it comes to long-term maintenance.”

“Depending on the colour and exposure, a re-coat every five to eight years is usually all that’s needed – sometimes a little sooner with darker shades," he adds. "With this level of maintenance, timber windows can easily deliver over 40 years of performance and style.”

Can changing the colour of your window frames increase kerb appeal or even add value?

“They definitely can,” says Kevin Brown. “Your home’s frontage is its first impression on potential buyers, and beautifully renovated, expertly designed homes fetch a higher starting price. That’s why evaluators recommend you clean up your house as best as possible before putting it on the market, and freshly painted windows definitely fall into that category.”

That said, a bold or unusual colour choice could have the opposite effect, particularly if buyers see it as something they’ll need to change. If you're planning to sell soon, it’s often safer to stick to classic, neutral tones that appeal to a broader range of tastes and help your home feel move-in ready.

Thinking of painting your uPVC windows? It can be done, but proper preparation is key. You’ll need the right primer and paint made for plastics, and it’s worth checking whether it could void your warranty. Our guide to painting uPVC windows covers everything you need to know.

Improving your home window security can be a vital task. Burglaries are often opportunistic crimes, according to Police UK, and burglars look for vulnerable windows because they can provide easier access than doors.

Effective home security systems can alert you to the presence of intruders and might provide evidence if you do fall victim to a crime. But as well as considering an alarm, CCTV cameras and lighting, securing potential access points like windows is a must to keep belongings and family members safer.

Here, we’re sharing the ways to maximise home window security including the locks, sensors and glazing options to consider, along with the practices that will make burglars think twice about targeting your home.

1. Focus on window locks

Locks will optimise window security. The Metropolitan Police advises the use of key-operated locks on windows that open out rather than up and any ground floor or accessible windows. However, given that burglars may steal an unsecured ladder or bring one with them and target upper floor windows that appear to be unlocked, it also recommends locks or sash stops for these windows.

If you have sash windows, sash stops such as the Fulton & Bray FB319 Sash Window Stop Restrictor from Amazon can prevent someone opening the window enough to climb through it.

UPVC, wood and aluminium windows often have multipoint locks operated via the handle. Alternatively, shootbolt locks – as the name suggests – have bolts that, when the handle is turned, secure the window to the frame.

To boost security, UPVC and wooden windows can additionally be fitted with sash jammers – like the Schlosser Technik Key Locking Sash Jammer at B&Q – which prevent the window from opening if a burglar bypasses the lock. They can be fitted to inward and outward opening windows. To maximise security, look for a design that bolts through the frame and can be operated from the outside, says the Master Locksmiths Association.

Be sure to check the details of your home insurance as it may specify the use of specific lock types and failure to fit them could mean the policy won’t pay out in the event of a break-in.

And if you want window restrictors (like the Cardea Solutions Essential Window Restrictor from Robert Dyas) that allow the window to be opened a little for ventilation make sure these cannot be unlocked or the locks picked from the exterior of your home.

2. Fit window sensors

Using window sensors can warn you when a break-in is attempted, and there are two different types you can consider.

“Contact sensors alert you when a window is opened and are ideal for ground floor and accessible windows, especially those at the rear or side of a property where visibility is lower,” says Anthony Neary, security expert at Safe.co.uk. “They are simple to install and integrate easily with smart home alarms to trigger instant alerts.

“Glass break sensors, on the other hand, detect the sound frequency or vibration of shattering glass,” explains Anthony. “They’re particularly useful for large or fixed pane windows where an intruder might break the glass without opening the window itself.

“Combining both types of sensors ensures you’re covered whether an intruder attempts to force entry or smash their way in,” he advises.

3. Add motion sensors

Motion sensors can also boost window security and should be part of your home security system.

“While window sensors cover the point of entry, motion sensors provide an added line of defence by monitoring the space itself,” explains Anthony Neary. “If a burglar manages to bypass a window sensor, motion detectors can still detect movement inside the home and trigger the alarm.

“They’re best positioned in main ground floor rooms with multiple entry points, such as living areas, hallways, or near staircases where an intruder is likely to pass through. In open-plan spaces, consider sensors with wide angle coverage to capture as much of the space as possible with just one device.”

Shop window security

4. Think security bars and grilles

Security bars and grilles create a physical barrier for the most vulnerable windows. They can also be a visual deterrent to burglars.

You can opt for retractable grilles if you’d prefer that one of these isn’t in place all the time. Take a look at the Security Direct High Security Retractable Window Grille at B&Q. Window bars, meanwhile, can also be retractable or fixed versions.

5. Opt for laminated glass

Laminated glass is a glazing option that can boost window security.

“Using laminated glass can improve window security as the glass is almost impossible to break,” explains Liam Spencer, owner of Northallerton Glass. “Even if someone does manage to break the window, the interlayers of the laminated glass would hold up the structure of the window pane and make it difficult to widen the hole to gain entry.”

Which windows should you consider using laminated glass in? “In terms of security, it is best to use laminated glass in street-facing windows, ground floor windows, on balconies and in conservatories,” says Liam.

6. Consider toughened glass

Toughened glass is an alternative to laminated glass you may want to think about for some windows.

“Toughened glass is believed to be up to five times stronger than standard glass,” says Liam Spencer. “Compared to laminated glass that is held together with a PVB layer to prevent it shattering, toughened glass shatters into smaller pieces with dull edges. Although it has a higher break point than laminated glass, it is used more where safety is a concern instead of security. However, despite it not being marketed as offering resistance to intrusion, it can still be good to use in ground floor or low level windows as it is much harder to break than laminated glass.”

7. Use security film

If you’re looking for a lower budget alternative to fitting laminated or toughened glazing, consider fitting security film to ground floor or accessible windows.

Security film can hold glass together in the event a burglar tries to smash their way in, making it more difficult to get into the house. It is easy to install and can be cut to size to fit a window plus it won’t block the light. Check out BDF S4MC Window Film from Amazon.

8. Prevent access

As well as the physical and smart ways to improve window security, there are other actions you should take to prevent access to your home.

If there are bins or items of garden furniture burglars could climb up on to access windows, secure them in a bin store or shed respectively. Also, if you have a ladder that could help someone get into your house, follow shed security advice and invest in a shed alarm if it’s kept in there or maximise garage security if that’s where it’s stored.

If you’re fitting replacement windows to your home or choosing windows for a self-build, think maximum security from the start. You could opt for Secured by Design windows, or look for those certified to PAS 24.

The glass in the windows of your home lets the light in and keeps the weather out – but it can do a whole lot more. Glazing innovations mean that it can offer additional benefits that make life easier, safer, and ensure the conditions inside a home are more comfortable.

Clever glazing solutions can, for instance, reduce exterior noise, prevent south-facing rooms overheating, help prevent birds striking windows, and even clean themselves.

Below, we look at these glazing choices as well as other ingenious designs that could prove the perfect option for your home, bringing clear views and natural illumination while introducing additional benefits.

1. Low iron glass

Iron oxide gives glass a green tint, which can may become apparent in some glazing. However, there is a way to avoid this tinge.

“Glass that is made in the UK and Europe is typically made with a mid-iron (extra clear) base as standard these days, which is why European glass is coveted throughout the world as having the best clarity and quality,” explains Rebecca Clayton, director at IQ Glass.

“However, you can also get ‘ultra’ clear, which is what most people refer to as low iron,” she says. “This is most often used for thick glass constructions where a tint would be noticeable due to the thickness of glass. This includes glass floors or other structural glass designs.”

2. Quadruple glazing

You might think that your choice for windows is between double glazing and triple glazing but quadruple glazing is an option, too. With four panes and three chambers it can offer improved thermal properties and U-values below the Passivhaus standard: 0.80 W/m²K or less.

In the UK, Glasgow-based Enviro Windows offers quadruple glazing with, the company says, a U-value of 0.35.

3. Solar control glass

If you need to keep the interior of your home cooler, solar control glass might be the answer. The glazing reduces heat as well as glare from the sun that passes through the glass, but lets light in. The glazing has a coating that reflects a portion of the sun’s infrared radiation and it also absorbs some of the solar energy to reduce heat transfer to a room.

You could choose it to help keep a south-facing room at a comfortable temperature during the summer months, for a highly glazed area where overheating is anticipated to be a problem, or for rooflights, for instance.

If you need to cool a room and aren’t fitting new windows? Try solar control film instead; it can be applied to to existing glazing.

Shop for solar control film

4. Self-cleaning glass

You can spare yourself a chore (or the cost of getting someone to do it for you) by choosing self-cleaning glazing for windows, pitched glass roofs or conservatories. It’s also ideal for inaccessible windows like skylights.

The coating on the external pane of glass reacts with daylight to break down and loosen dirt, then, when it rains, the water spreads over the glass, helping to wash any dirt away. And if it doesn’t rain for a while? The glass can be hosed with clean water.

5. Bird-protection glass

Birds flying into glass and being stunned, injured or killed by the impact is a frequent occurrence. Fit bird-protection glazing, though, and it helps them see it as the obstacle it is and avoid it.

A laminate within the glass units is the reason they can perceive the glazing. It makes a pattern that is visible under certain types of light that birds see and we don’t. Bird strikes can therefore be diminished but your view will still be good.

6. Acoustic glass

If you live near a noisy road or in a busy town or city, acoustic glass can be a boon. It can reduce noise by up to 50 decibels, depending on the specification of the glass, the size of the units and the type or frequency of the sound, explains Edward Stobart, technical sales manager at IDSystems.

“Acoustic glass is almost always double glazed and works by absorbing the vibrations caused when sound waves hit the glass, therefore reducing the sound that is transmitted through the glass to the other side,” Edward explains.

“To maximise the reduction in sound, double glazed acoustic glass is installed with two different thickness of glass which resonate at different frequencies and an argon gas filled cavity between, meaning more of the sound waves are absorbed,” he says. “In addition, by including laminated glass as one of the panes, this also significantly improves the acoustic performance.”

7. Safety glass

The glazing you select can protect individuals from injury, and improve home window security. Although the glass used in doors and windows is strong, in some situations, the use of stronger safety glass is appropriate – think windows at low levels and glazing in doors, for instance.

There are two types on offer: laminated glass and toughened glass. Laminated glass is very hard to break, making it a good choice for security. However, if it is broken, its PVB (polyvinyl butyral) layer prevents its breaking into shards or shattering into little pieces, so it can be a great option to improve safety, too.

Toughened glass has up to five times the strength of standard glazing. It’s harder to break than laminated glass, and were it be broken, it shatters into small pieces rather than shards. It’s therefore typically chosen for safety reasons.

Shop for glass cleaners

While choosing the right window type is crucial for both aesthetic and practical reasons, make sure you think glazing, too, for optimum comfort and safety. And if you’re adding to your home, understanding which glass you need for an extension will ensure the new space meets all your expectations.

Acoustic glazing. Triple glazing. Both types of window sound high-spec, both promise to upgrade your home, but they serve very different purposes. And if you’re weighing up the options, especially for a renovation or new build, it’s worth understanding exactly what you’re paying for.

Triple glazing is often viewed as the go-to for thermal efficiency and energy savings. Acoustic glazing, on the other hand, is specifically engineered to reduce noise, making it an ideal choice for homes near busy roads, railways or flight paths. One is focused on insulation; the other, on peace and quiet.

While both options have their strengths, the best choice ultimately comes down to your home’s specific needs and location. In this guide, we’ll break down the key differences between acoustic glazing and triple glazing, with expert insight to help you make an informed decision on which is right for you.

What is acoustic glazing and where does it work best?

Acoustic glazing is a specialist type of glass designed to reduce the transmission of sound through windows and doors. It’s most commonly used in homes that are exposed to high levels of environmental noise, such as those located near main roads or flight paths, where standard double glazing may not offer sufficient sound insulation.

“Acoustic glass is perfect for blocking out noise from places like railways, traffic, airports and factories,” explains Andrew Taylor, managing director at Specialist Glass Products. “It consists of two panes of glass which have been laminated together using PVB, or Polyvinyl Butyral. The PVB membrane reduces noise by absorbing the sound energy and preventing the sound vibrations from travelling through the glass.”

Acoustic glazing isn’t just for homes either. “Bespoke acoustic glass can separate meeting rooms and prevent sound from travelling across the main room in co-working spaces,” adds Taylor. In large households or open-plan extensions, the same principle can be used to create 'quiet zones' without compromising on light or layout.

What Is triple glazing and where does it work best?

Triple glazing is made up of three panes of glass separated by insulating gaps, usually filled with inert gas to slow down heat transfer. It’s designed to boost thermal performance, offering significantly better insulation than standard double glazing and helping to reduce heat loss in homes that need a little extra support on the energy efficiency front.

Improved energy performance is one of the main reasons homeowners consider this type of glazing, especially in retrofits aiming for lower carbon output, or where building regulations require tighter U-values. But there are a few extra perks too. Triple glazing can help reduce window condensation, it offers an added layer of security, and contributes to a quieter interior by limiting some external noise.

But it does have its limitations, mainly in terms of weight. “Triple glazing adds 50% in weight,” explains Kevin Brown, managing director at The Heritage Window Company, “which reduces the size parameters for both opening windows and doors. This can increase service issues over time.”

Acoustic glazing vs triple glazing

If you're comparing acoustic glazing with triple glazing, it's not a question of which one is better. Rather, it's about choosing the best option for your specific requirements. Here’s how they stack up against each other:

Heat Insulation

Although acoustic glazing is primarily designed to reduce external noise, it also offers some thermal benefits. Its laminated construction helps limit heat loss, making it a good option for homes that need to stay warm as well as quiet.

Triple glazing, on the other hand, is specifically engineered for thermal efficiency. “Triple-glazed units provide superior insulation, reducing energy expenses and increasing warmth during winter,” says Andrew Taylor. “This enhanced heat retention is particularly beneficial when replacing single or outdated, inefficient double glazing.”

That said, it isn’t always essential. “In many cases, double glazing comfortably meets the required U-values for thermal performance and offers a more cost-effective solution,” adds Mike Storey, founder of UKFR Roofing & Insulation. “The assumption that triple glazing is always better is a common misconception.

Soundproofing

Soundproofing is where acoustic glazing really excels. Its laminated structure, with a sound-dampening interlayer, makes it far more effective at reducing external noise than triple glazing. When used within a double-glazed unit, acoustic glass can reduce external noise by up to 50%, making it a smart choice for homes located in high-traffic areas or under flight paths.

“Triple glazing does not provide a similar level of noise insulation,” confirms Kevin Brown. “To disrupt soundwaves, you need the other layers of glass to be a different thickness, which isn’t the case with triple glazing.”

Installation & Costs

Both acoustic glazing and triple glazing are considered premium options, and there’s often little difference in upfront cost. According to Checkatrade, a typical triple-glazed window costs around £1,200 per unit, with prices ranging from £660 to over £2,000, depending on size, style and materials. Acoustic glazing usually falls within a similar price range, so cost alone is unlikely to be the deciding factor.

Where the two differ more noticeably is in how they are installed. Triple glazing adds roughly 50% more weight than standard double glazing, which can place greater strain on window and door frames, particularly in large openings or older properties that weren’t originally built to carry the load.

By contrast, acoustic glazing can often be fitted into existing frames, making it a more practical and flexible option for retrofit projects. It also avoids many of the structural challenges associated with heavier units, which makes it especially well-suited to rooflights or heritage buildings where minimal intervention is preferred.

Which option should you choose?

Choosing between acoustic glazing vs triple glazing ultimately depends on what you need your windows to do. If energy efficiency and thermal comfort are your main concerns, triple glazing may be the right fit, particularly for new builds or homes in colder regions. However, if your home is exposed to persistent noise, acoustic glazing will deliver a much more noticeable improvement in day-to-day comfort. It’s also typically easier to retrofit, without the weight-related complications that come with triple glazing.

Can’t upgrade to triple or acoustic glazing due to listed building restrictions? Secondary glazing could be a better fit for your home. It improves insulation and soundproofing without altering your existing windows.

What glass do I need for a glass extension is a question that should be top of your list when designing an extension. Safety, strength and solar gain are all important factors that need consideration when opting for a structure made heavily, or entirely from glass.

Picking the wrong glass is certainly not a mistake you want to make, and with options ranging from double to triple glazed, acoustic to solar glass and even heat producing glass, the options can seem overwhelming if you aren't sure what you need to consider.

So, with plenty of experts in the industry, we asked two of the most well known companies, 'what glass do I need for a glass extension', and here's what they said.

What glass do I need for a glass extension?

If your glass extension idea is one that could be more specifically classed as a glass box extension, then you'll essentially be creating the structure out of glass which naturally leads you to understand just how important it is to pick the right type.

Without more traditional construction materials such as brick or block to carry the structural load, there's no doubt you will require the services of a structural engineer for your extension to get your calculations right.

But what glass do you specifically need for a glass extension?

"For applications like glazed walls, roofs and windows or doors then a safety glass is a necessity," says Edward Stobart, technical sales manager at IDSystems.

"Toughened safety glass is treated in the manufacturing process to be significantly stronger than ordinary glass and if broken breaks into blunt pieces. Alternatively laminated glass is two panes of glass with a polymer interlayer – much like a car windscreen – which, even if broken, the pane shatters but holds together providing an extra level of security and safety," he explains.

Considering a glass roof extension idea? "For glass roofs you may also wish to consider heat soaked glass which is significantly reduces the risk of nickel sulphide inclusion – the most common cause of spontaneous glass breakage," says Edward.

Rebecca Clayton, a director at IQ Glass explains how the company typically recommends their Invisio structural glass system for walls, ceilings, doors, and windows in a glass extension.

"Invisio is a fully thermally broken, frameless structural glazing solution providing excellent thermal insulation and minimal aesthetics," she says. "We can also integrate slim sliding patio doors, particularly where slim-framed, large-scale moving glass panels are needed."

Is there a difference in the glass used for a frameless vs framed design?

Although you may assume the glass used for a frameless design is different to that used in a glass extension that has framed sections, this isn't the case explain the experts, stating how it's the structure, rather than the glass that changes.

"The primary difference is the fixing and supporting structure," says Rebecca Clayton. "Frameless designs typically use a product such as Invisio which, allows floor-to-ceiling elevations without visible frames or supports.

"Framed designs on the other hand, such as Mondrian glass extensions, use thermally broken steel profiles to support the glazing, thus creating their own distinct visual style."

But, in either case the type of glass remains the same in order to ensure it's safe and compliant with building regulations.

What glass should I choose to avoid issues with overheating?

One of the main issues with opting for a glass extension is that it naturally invites in the sunshine. And while this can be a positive, it can also lead to overheating if you don't have the right glass specified for your project.

And, with rising temperatures, designing homes to combat the issue is becoming increasingly important. So what do you need to consider when it comes to choosing your glass?

"When it comes to preventing overheating, opting for glass with a solar control coating is definitely something to consider," confirms Edward Stobart, "and almost a necessity for large amounts of glazing on south facing elevations.

"Solar control glass is coated (usually on the inner face of the outer pane in a double-glazed unit) with a very thin, invisible metal oxide layer. This coating reflects infrared radiation and keeps out solar heat before it enters the room, whilst maintaining visible light transmission to keep rooms bright and naturally lit," he explains.

Worried you might lose too much light? There are different types says Rebecca Clayton, stating that the company's most popular type, the 70/35 coating, maintains 70% natural light transmission while still significantly reducing overheating.

Do you need triple glazing or is double glazing sufficient?

Assuming triple glazed glass will be required for a glass extension is an easy enough assumption to make, but it isn't always the case say the experts. And in fact, might not even be suitable in some cases.

"Triple glazing is typically more thermally efficient than double glazing, however triple glazing costs are always higher," says Edward Stobart. "For the vast majority of homes, modern high performance double glazing will be substantially better than existing windows and doors, so triple glazing is not required.

"But, for those planning ultra-efficient eco-homes or aiming for Passivhaus standards of thermal efficiency, then triple glazing is the best solution," confirms Edward.

"Triple glazing achieves U-values as low as 0.8 W/m²K," adds Rebecca Clayton. "It’s recommended where maximum insulation is desired, though double glazing is generally sufficient for most UK climates, offering U-values from around 1.1 W/m²K."

But, if you're planning an extensively sized glass extension, you may find that triple glazing isn't actually suitable, warns Edward.

"One thing to consider with triple glazing is that because it is 50% heavier than the equivalent double glazed unit there can be limitations on the sizes that can be achieved – something especially important for glass roofs."

Which glass is best to avoid lots of cleaning?

Of course, the only downside with having lots of glazed walls, windows and even roofs is the potential for dirt, watermarks and fingerprints to turn into a never-ending cleaning challenge.

The good news is there are options available when considering what glass do I need for a glass extension.

"We usually recommend 'Low Maintenance Glass'," says Rebecca Clayton, "which includes an invisible protective coating applied to the external face. It significantly reduces cleaning frequency, especially in challenging environments such as marine areas or spaces with restricted access. It also protects glass surfaces from chemical etching and damage."

"For glass roofs it is particularly important to look for self-cleaning glass," adds Edward Stobart, "which is glazing that has a coating on the outer surface of the glass to help keep it cleaner for longer by using natural sunlight and rainwater to break down and wash away dirt."

FAQs

What is the strongest type of glass?

"For applications such as balustrades that often feature on loft balcony ideas, toughened laminated glass with thicknesses of between 17.5mm – 21.5mm is typically used," explains Edward Stobart. "This ensures the glass complies with building regulations covering safety at height."

"Toughened laminated glass, combines the high strength of toughened (tempered) glass with the security benefits of laminated safety glass," adds Rebecca Clayton. It's why if you are considering any internal window ideas, such as a walk-on glass floor, this is what should be specified by your supplier.

Can glass help heat my home?

As well as the benefits of using solar gain to help heat your home, there are also certain types of glass that radiate additional heat.

"IQ Glass has a product called Heated Glass," confirms Rebecca Clayton, "which acts as a transparent electrical heating source, suitable for heating spaces such as glass extensions.

"It can help eliminate condensation, and preventing snow build-up externally," she adds. "The system is electrically conductive and controlled via thermostat or home automation, producing comfortable radiant heat throughout the extension."

Wondering how much to budget for a glass extension? Find out what can impact your budget in our guide to glass extension costs and work out what you could expect to pay for your project using our handy online extension costs calculator.

There are lots of different reasons why bricking up a window might make sense when renovating a house. In some cases, it might be down to a matter of privacy, while in other instances the need to brick up a window is down to layout reconfigurations that mean natural light is no longer needed in a particular position.

"We close up windows for many different reasons," picks up Farook Member, home improvement specialist and director of QS Supplies. "Sometimes it is to install something such as an appliance or cabinet in front of it, or to just make the room slightly more private. Other times it is simply due to a new trend, or due to the planners requiring it."

Whatever your reasons are for bricking up a window, our expert-led guide is here to help, with advice on everything, from how to tie the new brickwork in with the old to how to find matching bricks.

Will bricking up a window always look obvious?

The concern many people have when it comes to bricking up a window is that it will always look glaringly obvious that there was once an opening there. Thankfully, though, this need not be the case – and much of this comes down to the types of bricks you use.

"Bricking up a window to make it appear as though it never existed is all about how close you can make it match the exterior brickwork," picks up Farook Member. "Bricks, mortar, design – the lot. As close to original as you can get, the better. You're going to want to use bricks of the same size and colour and make the joints on the new section the same as on the older part."

The following tips will all help ensure no-one will ever know that a window once existed in your beautiful brickwork.

1. Do everything you can to track down matching bricks

While using bricks that match those used on the surrounding wall is the most obvious way to ensure a seamless finish, what happens if you just can't find any?

"If you are struggling to match bricks, check if other houses on the street are having building works done," suggests architect Tina Patel, director at Architect Your Home. "You may be able to reuse any that they are discarding which could be a bonus as they will be pre-weathered."

"If the matching bricks are hard to locate, try looking for some reclaimed bricks among local salvage yards," adds Farook Member. "They usually have a good stock of older bricks. Otherwise, you could consider taking whatever you can from an out-of-sight part of your property."

2. Pay attention to the brick bond

Even if you are successful in finding matching bricks, bad brickwork or laying them in a totally different pattern to those within the existing wall, will mean the whole thing is going to look wrong.

"Make sure bricks are keyed in too," says Tina Patel. "This essentially means that the bricklayer will remove any surrounding bricks to allow for the brick bond to continue in the same pattern – as opposed to leaving the old cut or half bricks around the opening."

"Removing a few of the bricks around the window in a staggered manner so that the new bricks can blend in with the older bricks is a good trick," agrees Farook Member. "It requires a spot of patience, but it does work."

"Ensure you have removed any old brick arches or soldier coursing (the vertical bricks above a window opening) and followed the adjacent brick pattern through," adds Tina Patel.

3. Use tricks to make new bricks look old

You might well be patting yourself on the back for hunting down bricks to match the originals, but they are still going to look a little different to the old bricks if they are newer.

"Spend some time colour matching the brick – if you use a new brick against an old one, even if you have got a good match, one will be a lot less weathered," explains Tina Patel. "To overcome this look into brick tinting. You can apply a brick weathering tint to the wall which should make the bricks blend seamlessly."

"You can also touch them up using limewash or masonry tint to tone them down," adds Farook Member.

4. Be sure to repoint the whole wall

While you can go to great effort to use the same mixture to point the brickwork where the window once sat, to get a totally seamless finish, it is better when repointing brickwork to do so to the entire wall.

"Re-point the wall so it all looks fresh and aligned in same way," advises Tina Patel.

If the rest of the house has lime mortar within the brickwork pointing, don't be tempted to use anything else for the newly bricked up section as doing so could result in problems with damp later down the line.

5. Avoid rendering over the entire wall

It can be tempting to just cover the whole wall with new render, but this is something to be avoided if at all possible.

"Unless the existing wall is in really bad condition, we would not normally suggest rendering a brick wall," picks up Tina Patel.

"If you do consider this route, be mindful that brick walls work in a certain way relative to rain and moisture and you will want to seek advice in order not to compromise the integrity of this by covering it up with a render," continues Tina. "Rendering it up may also draw attention to your wall being different to your adjacent neighbours – plus render generally requires more regular maintenance."

That said, Farook Member feels that unless a perfect match can be achieved, render can be the best route.

"If you can't locate a match, render the whole wall and don't try to cover over an ugly, mismatched section," he says. "Smooth render looks neater and more contemporary, while a textured finish covers up flaws well."

6. Don't forget the other side of the wall

Finally, the interior of the wall, where the window was once positioned, will also require your attention.

If you are dealing with a cavity wall, you will be able to add insulation to the inside of your new brickwork before blocking up the opening internally and having it plastered over.

However, if yours is a solid wall, you will need a double thickness of bricks in order for the levels to match up.

Bricking up a window: Step-by-step

It is useful to know the basic steps that go into bricking up a window, whether you plan on doing it yourself or if it is just a case of wanting to know what's involved.

1. Take out the old window. Timber frames are usually pretty simple while some double-glazed units can be tricker.
2. Clean up the opening. Remove any mortar, and the brick cill if present, to give to a clean opening.
3. In order to tie the new bricks in and ensure they follow the same pattern as the old, it might be necessary to cut out sections of the existing opening surrounds to set the new brickwork in so that the bricks bond.
4. The new bricks can now be laid into place and pointed.
5. After the external bricks have been laid, the inside of the window can be bricked or blocked up.

FAQs

Do I need planning permission to brick up a window?

In the majority of cases, planning permission will not be required to brick up a window. That said, if you live in a listed building or within a conservation area you might well need consent.

If in any doubt check with your local planning department.

While bricking up a window is not too much of an issue, you will need to think very carefully when the time comes for replacement windows. Everything from their size to the frame material you op for and the type of glazing you choose will have a huge effect on how your home looks and performs.

There's no doubt we're all looking for as many ways to keep a room cool as possible in recent weeks and it's not set to change any time soon. But, while we're well versed in keeping windows covered during the winter to help keep the heat in, surely in the summer this doesn't work to our advantage?

If blinds and curtains keep the heat in during the winter, surely that means they'll trap hot air in a room during the summer?

Experts explain why the answer is in principle no, but also warn there are steps you need to take to make sure your blinds do help keep heat out, not just in.

The importance of keeping heat out

For your blinds to work effectively in helping manage temperature in your home, there are a number of things you need to do to make sure they work most effectively.

One of the most important points is to firstly keep the windows and doors closed and make sure you've done this before the temperature outside rises.

“In the short term, keeping doors, windows and blinds closed during the day can make a big difference to the temperature inside your home during a heatwave. Think of it like a cave," says Joseph Holman, CEO of Green Doors

“Caves are a good example of how to manage your home in a heatwave. A cave is cool in heatwaves because it is dark and doesn't have direct sunlight or a direct entrance for the heat. You want to probably mimic that in your home.

“Reduce sunlight and stop the movement of the outside air into the home," he says. "Even switching off the lights will help you with that. The recommendation would be to keep the windows and doors closed for the entire time until the temperatures outside drops."

How do blinds keep hot air in but also stop it from coming in?

So if blinds do keep the heat in, how does it not turn your room into a sauna in the summer?

"While it's true that blinds can keep heat inside during winter, the idea that they might trap heat during summer isn't quite accurate – especially if you choose the right type of blind," says Helen O'Connor, product and trend manager at 247 Blinds.

"Blinds work as thermal regulators all year round. In winter they reduce heat loss by creating an insulating pocket of air between the window and the room. This layer slows the transfer of warm air out of the house – much like double-glazing does," explains Helen.

"In summer, the same principle works in reverse. The pocket of air between the blind and the window helps to block or dissipate the heat before it enters the living space.

"Think of it like a thermos flask," she suggests. "It keeps things hot or cold by using insulation. The structure of some blinds also allows airflow and thermal regulation, which actually helps prevent overheating rather than trap it."

The best blinds for keeping heat out and in

But are all blinds equal? It seems not says Helen, telling us that the material and the design of the blind can make a big difference.

"For optimal summer performance, we'd recommend honeycomb pleated blinds with a blackout fabric and solar-reflective coating on the back and/or in between the honeycomb structure, such as this Celeste Blackout Talc Pleated Blind," suggests Helen.

"The solar-reflective material helps to reflect the incoming solar heat back towards the window and through the glass, preventing it from entering the room. The blackout element prevents light and thermal energy from entering, while the honeycomb structure traps air and limits thermal bridging between the outdoors and the indoors," she explains.

"This means your room stays significantly cooler in a heatwave, reducing the need for air conditioning, and lowering energy bills in the process," adds Helen.

Prefer your window coverings to be more hidden? Another option says Joseph Holman is integral blinds. Worried this means buying completely new windows? Not always he says.

“You can install integral blinds without changing the doors and windows themselves, simply by changing the glazing units."

The added bonus? "Integral blinds can be installed without damaging the door or window, whereas external blinds have to be drilled into something. They are a great space saver and will last longer than external blinds, which can be damaged much more easily," he adds.

Shop blinds that keep the heat in — and out

FAQs

My windows are in the shade so can I leave blinds closed but open the windows?

Although it can seem counter-intuitive to keep your windows closed, especially if they aren't in direct sunlight, this isn't entirely accurate.

“You don't want to let the warm air inside," warns Joseph Holman. "There is no rule for where doors and windows are located. It is more based on the temperature outside vs temperature inside. One may argue that if the door or window is in the shade, it may be good to open; however, that wouldn't be recommended as it would let the hot air into the house.

“Think of it this way: if you had the air con on to make the air colder, you wouldn't open the doors and windows," says Joseph, "so make sure you don't do that even if you don't have air con installed."

It's the same when using fans such as the MeacoFan Sefte 10" Pedestal Fan or any other type of fan. If you're letting hot air in, that's all the fan is going to be able to push around the room. But, if it's cool inside as you've kept the sunlight and heat out, you will stand a better chance of feeling the benefits of blinds keeping the heat out.

What else can I do to windows to make them heat reflectors?

While modern glass tends to have better reflective qualities than older windows, another option if your windows are particularly exposed to sunlight is solar control glass or tinted film.

“If you want to protect your home from the heat longer term, I would recommend investing in tinted film for windows to reflect the heat," agrees Joseph Holman.

Roller blind canopies are also good at keeping direct sun away from the doors, or anything that can create a shade such as a sun sail or pergola attached to the house.

Understanding how to prevent overheating is also something that needs more consideration if you are looking at a new self build. Natural ventilation is a must in all homes, but with rising temperatures, systems such as MVHR and air to air heat pumps are set to become a must in house design as the mercury continues to climb.

Whether you're renovating or planning a self build, if your plans feature a garage, you'll potentially be looking at how to buy garage doors. Often an integral part of your home security, picking a robust design is key. But, with a number of different types of garage doors available, how do you decide which one is right for you?

Choosing and buying the right product will usually come down to several factors, including style, size, function and, of course, budget. "The garage can be one of the most prominent features of a home’s façade and choosing a garage door to complement the property’s exterior is important – there’s no longer a 'one size fits all' option," says David O’Mara, marketing manager at Hörmann.

"Garages are no longer being used just for cars, and the space is increasingly being used for additional storage, as a workspace or utility area and even for home gyms. When buying a garage door, it is therefore important to consider what is most suitable for the space available and how the garage is going to be used," he adds.

Factors to consider when buying a garage door

When looking at how to buy a garage door for an existing garage then choosing the right design will be dependent on the current specifications of your garage.

"The location of the garage door on the building will factor in your choice, as well as how much space is available internally and externally to be able to get a car in comfortably," explains Elizabeth Assaf, co-founder at Urban Front.

Regardless of whether you are buying garage doors for a new garage design or refurbishment, aesthetics will of course be a personal choice and you’ll want something that’s in keeping with your home’s style, whether that be contemporary or classic.

A comprehensive selection of finishes is available, including sleek matt surfaces, textured finishes and designs that replicate modern materials, such as concrete, metal and wood. And, when it comes to colour, the options are virtually endless with most manufacturers offering a large choice of standard colours, plus the ability to match any RAL colour offered.

"Colour options are almost endless, whether you’re looking for real timber, timber-effect laminate on steel panels or a specific RAL colour," confirms Nathan Dove, owner of The Garage Door Centre.

"The most popular coloured door is still Anthracite Grey," he says, "however, silver greys and soft cream tones are becoming increasingly popular."

Further considerations are your garage insulation requirements. If you’re planning on your garage being more than just a storage area, it’s important to keep it at a comfortable temperature and thermally efficient.

"For good thermal efficiency, a double-skinned sectional garage door is worth the investment, with its modern, double-skinned insulated panel and enhanced sealing,’ says David O'Mara. "It will help to maintain the temperature within the garage, reduce heat loss and keep any items stored in good condition."

Understanding your size requirements

"The best size for any garage door is quite simply one that allows you to drive in and out with ease," says Nathan Dove. "Or if using the garage for other purposes, a door that provides enough height for you to walk in and out.

"For single-width garages, used for a vehicle, the best size of garage door is around 228 to 240cm wide in order to be able to drive in with ease," he says.

"For the height, especially considering how many 4x4 vehicles are now on the roads, then go for a minimum height of 200cm, but ideally 213.4cm, and even higher if the door hangs down when open, reducing the drive through height," advises Nathan.

Best garage doors based on price, size and space

As mentioned, the type of door you opt for will typically depend on the space you have available, how you want to use your garage and the overall aesthetics of the design.

However, each type will be more suited to certain needs than others and the most popular choices for garage doors come with their own sets of pros and cons.

Best for budgets

Up-and-over garage doors: This one-piece design is the classic garage door. As the name suggests, it lifts up from the bottom, either sliding out of the way below the garage ceiling when open, or creating a canopy at the front.

"If space on the driveway and headroom in the garage are not an issue, then a traditional up-and-over steel door may be the best option," says David O' Mara. "A cost-effective choice, the up-and-over garage door is still one of the most popular in the UK and is widely used in the new build market."

Best for dual entry

Side-hinged garage doors: Also known as side-opening or swing variants, a side-hinged garage door comprises a two-leaf set up where the panels are hinged at the sides to open in much the same way as your front door would. All side-hinged garage doors are fixed to a sub-frame, either made from steel or timber. As well as the conventional half-and-half split (where both door panels are equal in width and open at the middle of the aperture), you can get a one-third to two-thirds split across the opening panels.

A split option can be ideal if you don't have rear or side access to the garage and use your garage to store items such as tools or bikes. Having a smaller door will mean you don't have to open the large one every time you go in and out.

Best for low ceilings

Round-the-corner garage doors: One of the earliest available types on the market, these "operate by sliding to one side of the garage opening and along the inside wall," says Alastair Mayne, chief operating officer at Garolla.

"The door is hung from a track along the ceiling and guided by a channel on the floor. There are also bi-parting models that let you open and close one side at a time. These are well suited to garages with little headroom," he explains.

Bifold garage doors: Bifold garage doors are also an option when the garage height is an issue, as they don’t need wall space for a mechanism. Whether outward or inward opening, they require sufficient room to fold back. The panels allow the garage to be accessed without opening the door fully. A bifold door can also be automated.

Best space-saving choices

Sectional garage doors: "A sectional door is a space-saving choice," says David O'Mara. "It opens vertically upwards and is suspended under the ceiling, making full use of the space inside and in front of the garage. Manufactured to be durable and secure, sectional garage doors are convenient to use and are suitable for most domestic garages and can offer increased passage width in comparison to a standard up-and-over door," he explains.

"Their double-skinned construction means that they also offer excellent thermal performance."

Roller garage doors: ‘"Roller garage doors open vertically providing an optimum amount of space within the garage, making them the perfect choice for homeowners with limited space both within the garage and on the driveway," says David. "Their compact construction, without tracks going into the garage, will help maximise the space available."

Choosing your garage door materials

Garage doors can be made from various materials depending on your specific requirements. ABS is the material used for many garage doors, rather than uPVC, as it is impact resistant, rot proof and stable. Plus it won’t fade or yellow.

However, other options are available as follows:

• Timber garage doors are well suited to period properties, but contemporary-style timber designs are also available. Treatment before installation can reduce maintenance, but do check with the manufacturer about any specific requirements
• Steel garage doors are strong and come with a wide choice of surface finishes and colours. They are generally easy to maintain depending on the finishing or coating
• Aluminium garage doors are mostly insulated double-skin roller doors. Both coloured and timber lookalike effects are available. The surface will need to be kept clean of grit and debris. Strong and stable, but light, they only need a regular wash down to keep them clean
• Glass reinforced plastic (GRP) has a better strength-to-weight ratio than steel, according to Garage Doors Online, and is a naturally insulating material, won’t warp, shrink or rust and is virtually maintenance free

The importance of security when choosing your garage doors

Garage security must be one of the key areas of focus when homeowners buy a garage door, say the experts.

Any garage door chosen should be fitted with the latest, high-security locking systems and for added peace of mind, it is worthwhile installing a garage door that has Secured by Design accreditation.

The most secure types of door also tend to be the ones that have a good level of inherent strength in the door panel construction, as Nathan explains. "Many electric garage doors have a garage door panel with no external handle or lock to attack, so potential burglars have nothing to force and would have to resort to the door itself, which will be noisy and difficult.

"Insulated steel, double-skinned sectional doors and steel side-hinged doors offer some of the best security with their greater levels of overall strength and build design," say Nathan. "Higher-end insulated roller garage doors and some steel up-and-over doors offer excellent security when they have been tested to a “Secure by Design” standard or even higher standards with other certified testing processes."

However, it's important not to cut corners and assume adding another lock yourself will make your garage door more secure he warns.

"Putting a bigger or better lock and even multi-point locking system onto a generic garage door is a waste of time if the lock itself is easy to break, which with cheap handles and lock cylinders is far too common," says Nathan. "Check the security rating of the garage door with the supplier and don’t just rely on a brand adding the word “security” to the model name."

Additional features

When buying a garage door, you may also want to consider some additional features.

"Glazing panels set within the door will provide natural light in the garage if you want to create a more multipurpose space, such as a gym or work studio," suggests David O'Mara.

However, if you are considering ways of future proofing your home, you may also want to look at including smart features in your garage doors.

"Having a smart garage door is incredibly useful for convenience, security and integration with modern technology," says John Foster, exterior installations manager at Hillarys.

"Customers can opt for a photocell sensor for enhanced safety technology and products such as the Wireless Somfy keypad offer easy access control. Remote controls such as the Keygo remote are available for smart rollers only, while the Keytis remote is designed for sectional doors," he explains.

"Products like the TaHoma smart hub (which requires a photocell) and the Somfy wall switch are additional smart features that complement the smart range of doors and enable the garage doors to be controlled remotely."

If incorporated into the design and installation of your garage door, there can be many benefits to opting for a hi-tech design, as John explains:

• Enhanced security: Smart garage doors allow you to monitor your garage door from virtually anywhere using an app. You can receive notifications if the door is left open, adding an extra layer to your home security
• Convenience and remote access: With smart garage doors, you can open and close your garage from anywhere using your smartphone or a connected device. This is particularly useful if you need to let someone into your home while you’re away or if you forget to close the door when leaving
• Integration with smart home devices: Smart garage doors can be integrated with other smart devices, allowing for seamless control through voice commands with systems like Amazon Alexa or Google Assistant. This integration enhances the overall functionality of your smart home setup
• Scheduled operations: You can program your garage door to open or close at specific times, which can be convenient for daily routines or ensuring the door is closed at night

Installation and cost considerations

The type of garage door you ultimately choose will also be influenced by garage door costs.

"An up-and-over steel garage door is one of the most popular doors in the UK,’ says David. ‘It is priced at the lower end of the market, but it does offer homeowners a very practical solution and is excellent value for money.

"In contrast," he adds, "a 42mm double-skinned sectional garage door will be towards the top end of the price range. This reflects its numerous advantages, such as good thermal insulation and enhanced security, together with modern styling and a wide range of finishes and colour options."

There are a few other elements that can increase costs, too, as David explains. "Other factors including the size of the door, whether any design elements and glazing panels are included, plus the colours and finishes, can all have an impact. The decision whether to automate the door is a further cost consideration."

Once you've outlaid for your garage door, you'll likely want to avoid incurring extra costs which is why it's also important to weigh up maintenance and warranties when picking your door.

"Garage doors purchased from a reputable manufacturer should have a warranty of 10 years," advises David. "It’s also important for consumers to ensure that if the garage door is fitted with an automatic controller, it is supplied by the same manufacturing company as the garage door. Warranties can be deemed invalid if this is not the case.

"Like anything else, garage doors should be cleaned on a regular basis to remove dirt and grit to protect the surface finish, and to ensure reliable and safe operation," adds David. "Some garage door installers will also service garage doors, which helps ensure they are kept in good working condition."

FAQs

What does the installation process involve?

"The installation process typically begins with a free survey, followed by choosing a garage door, and booking an installation date," says Alastair Mayne. "As part of the installation, the old garage door will be removed (and typically disposed of for you, depending on the material). The new door will then be installed, and tested."

David O'Mara advises that whatever type of garage door is chosen, it is vital that it is fitted correctly, from an operational, safety and warranty point of view. "As with any major home improvement, it is always advisable to call in the experts, who will provide advice, survey the garage, provide a quote and install the door.

"Reputable garage door manufacturers often have a Dealer Finder function on their websites," he notes, "which will list the local garage door fitters by area who have been trained by the manufacturer and will install their products." In order to ensure a good installation, it's often wise to choose a recommended supplier.

Where to buy garage doors?

While all of the companies referenced above offer a wide range of quality garage doors and associated products, you can also find a selection available at some well known retailers including:

• Wickes – offers a range of canopy and retractable doors in both framed and unframed finishes
• B&Q - a full range of styles, finishes and materials, plus a range of side or rear entrance doors
• Screwfix - plenty of options including electric, roller and up and over garage doors

Updating your driveway as part of your exterior overhaul? Take a look at the best driveway materials to ensure you pick a finish that will also suit the garage door you ultimately choose to buy.

And, if you already have a garage door in place that needs some care and attention, find out how to insulate a garage door to make sure your space is warm and your belongings protected.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

Over the past decade sliding doors have become the default option for homeowners wanting big glazed doors for their extension, renovation or self-build project. As demand has grown, so has the influx of different door systems, with manufacturers chasing slimmer frames to enable almost uninterrupted views out.

To achieve those thinner frames, the way the door systems have been constructed has changed significantly, but in doing so, it has introduced a significant risk that homeowners aren't always aware of.

The risks of using structurally bonded glass

"Windows and doors have traditionally been glazed using beads to hold the glass into the frame," says Will Mitchell, Sunflex UK's Technical Manager. "The bead clips into the frame, usually on the inside, and secures the double- or triple-glazed unit in place. The challenge with ultra-slim frames is that there is no space for a glazing bead, so manufacturers have had to opt for alternative methods of securing the glass in place. For most systems, that involves permanently glueing or bonding the glass directly to the frame, creating systems that are known as structurally bonded doors."

Structurally bonded sliding doors are easy to spot – they have narrow frames on all four sides of the panel and make up the vast majority of ultra-slim systems on the market. The issue is that by permanently bonding the glass to frame it is impossible to replace the glass without replacing the entire frame.

Financial implications

While standard home insurance policies will likely cover glass replacement, most won't cover the cost of the frame, leaving you significantly out of pocket. "Last year we completed a number of projects where the original supplier had ceased trading and the customer had enquired to us about a whole new door because they couldn't replace the glass," explains Will. "The risks involved with structurally bonded systems were never explained to them before they ordered the doors in the first place."

Luckily, there are alternative sliding door systems out there that allow for ultra-slim frames and aren't structurally bonded. The Sunflex UK SVG20 features 20mm sightlines, but due to its deeper outer frames, which can accommodate glazing beads, it is possible to remove the glass and replace it without damaging the frame.

For details, visit Sunflex UK or speak to one of the technical sales team on 01603 494424.

If you need more space in your home but don’t have the funds to make it happen right away bricking up a garage door is a budget-friendly alternative to a full-scale extension. All that’s needed is a single wall and window to create a large, ready-insulated living space.

Add in the finishing touches and give it a lick of paint and you’ll have a garage conversion that will give you a flexible living space that offers the extra room you need and add value to you’re home when you finally decide to sell.

Here you find out what is involved in the process, what materials are needed and how much a pro will charge to make it happen.

Should you choose a DIY route or trades?

Bricking up a garage door is not a typical DIY project. There are a lot of skills, tools and knowledge of regulations needed to brick up a garage door. You will need to be a labourer, bricklayer and window fitter. On top of the skills needed, you will need to invest in a host of tools. If you don’t have the correct ones already, it will add to the overall cost of the project.

Unless you’re a seasoned DIYer, we recommend that you call in a professional to get the job done.

Should you brick up a garage door?

Bricking up a garage door is a smart way to add extra space to a home and is more cost-effective than building an extension. The majority of the space is already in place, so it is effectively only one wall that needs to be put up; however, there may be a few criteria that you need to watch out for. As Paul Kerr, a building specialist at Beatsons, shares, “Planning permission may be needed if you're making any structural changes or adding things like windows, doors or ventilation.”

But if you are simply bricking up an opening, you should be OK, says Kerr. “You should be fine if most of the work is internal and you aren't extending the footprint of the property.” Kevin Keen, owner of Keen's Buildings, adds, “It is also worth noting that building control still inspects footing depth, cavity construction, insulation and Part L U-values.“ This ensures that any work carried out is in accordance with regulations.

There can be other considerations, points out Kerr. “The conservation status of your home is also important here. For conservation areas and grade-listed buildings, planning permission would be needed.” To make sure you can contact your local authority for guidance.

Cost to brick up a garage door

As you might expect, there isn’t a simple answer to how much it will cost. As Kerr points out, “The unfortunate answer to the question of price is...it depends.” The type of materials used can significantly impact the final cost. For example, using bespoke oak wooden frames will significantly increase the price compared to basic off-the-shelf UPVC window and door frames.

In addition to the standard materials, you also need to consider labour and additional costs. “Labour will cost around £150-£250 per day,” says Kerr. But there are other costs to think about as Kerr adds, “And you have extras such as skip hire, insulation, additional structural reinforcements (lintels etc) and brick matching to keep the aesthetic the same as the rest of the house.”

As a general guideline on price, Kerr says, “Around £2000 might be needed here as a minimum starting point,” he adds, “but it will vary depending on the traders and labourers you hire.” As always, be sure to obtain two or three quotes from local trades to ensure a more accurate price tailored to your specific needs.

Try these materials for bricking up a garage door

Cost of materials

If you’re going to tackle the project yourself or purchase the materials needed for the job, you’ll need to know how much to budget. Bricks and blocks are the two key components. Kerr says, “Concrete blocks are needed on the inside leaf of the building, with bricks added on the external layer, these blocks cost around £1.20 each.” But the price can rise depending on size, density and material. For example, thermal blocks are around £0.40 more per block.

The price of bricks can vary. Kerr says, “Bricks can start from as little as 80 pence per brick, depending on the material/style of said brick.” But Keen adds, “Handmade, reclaimed or colour-matched bricks double the spend.”

Beyond bricks, there is “Damp proofing costs and insulation costs,” points out Kerr. This will cost around £50 to £100 for each. Keen adds, “Other costs will include bags of mortar, stainless ties and sealant.” This will add around another £100 to the cost.

Kerr finishes by saying, “You might be able to source all the materials for around £1000-£1200.” But this will depend on the quality of materials and the size of the garage door.

FAQs

How many bricks/blocks will be needed?

The average size for a garage door in the UK is 2.4m x 2.1m. For this, you will need around 300 bricks for the outer wall and 50 concrete blocks for the inner wall. Add around 5-10% to ensure that you don’t fall short. Use an online tool like the Jewson Brick Calculator to estimate how many bricks and blocks you’ll need.

You will need approximately 25 x 20kg bags of mixed mortar to build the walls. A rough guide is one 20kg bag for 25 bricks, or three bags per square metre. Obviously, bricks use more mortar than blocks, so you will need less for a block wall.

How long does it typically take to brick up a garage door?

For a straightforward build (walls only), Kerr says, ”For brick only builds (if it's a standard UK-sized garage) it should take a couple of days, around three tops with a well-experienced labour team.” Windows are a typical component when bricking a wall, commonly one, which will take around a day to sort and seal.

Finally, to finish the job, you need to be plastering walls and painting. For this, you should allow a day for each. Remember, you will need to let the plaster dry completely before adding a mist coat or wallpapering new plaster.

Newly constructed walls require plastering to achieve a smooth finish. Check out our how to plaster a wall and painting new plaster guides to ensure a good finish. Alternatively, if you want to add wallpaper, try our how to wallpaper guide.

The type of garage door you choose will depend on various factors. You may be on a tight budget, have a bespoke-sized opening, or simply want the best or most secure.

Whatever your garage design, the door will need to be installed. You can do it yourself, but it’s recommended that you call a professional to do the job properly. So, don’t forget to add installation costs to your garage door cost.

Here, we look at the popular types of garage doors available and tell you how they work and how much you can expect to pay.

Types of garage doors: The popular options

There are several types to choose from. Here, John Foster, exterior installation manager at Hillarys, outlines the common choices.

1. Up and over doors

These are the classic single-panel doors that tilt up and slide into the garage ceiling space.

2. Roller doors

Made from slats that roll up into a compact box above the opening, roller garage doors are great for saving space.

3. Side-hinged doors

Side-hinged garage door open outwards like traditional double doors. They are ideal for garages used for storage or workshops.

4. Sliding doors

These run along a track parallel to the wall and are a good option for wider openings or when ceiling space is limited.

5. Sectional doors

Sectional garage doors are made from horizontal panels that slide up and overhead, providing good insulation and security.

Try these to make more of your garage door

Cost of each type

Garage door costs depend very much on type, size, material and features, meaning prices can vary considerably. Foster shares, “Up-and-over doors are typically the cheapest, while sectional and sliding doors tend to be at the higher end due to their construction and features.”

Up and over doors start at around £400, but can be double the price, depending on the material and brand. They are typically made from galvanised steel, like this Elizabethan Horizontally Ribbed Up & Over White Retractable Garage door from B&Q.

Roller garage doors start from around £500-600 for a basic steel roller door, with prices rising to around £1500 for a top-quality design. You can expect to pay £800+ for a single skin steel or softwood side-hinged garage door. But again, prices can easily double or triple depending on materials and size.

Sectional garage doors are not a cheap option, with prices starting at around £2000 for a basic door. However, high-end versions with installation can reach £10000 and beyond, again, depending on size and materials.

Installation costs for each type

Prices can vary greatly depending on the type and size of the door. However, quoted prices typically include the garage door, frame, and installation. Therefore, the price you see is the price you pay.

Foster points out that the roller doors they sell start at £1299, which includes measuring, all the necessary hardware, and installation. He adds that sectional doors are more expensive, with prices (again including measuring, hardware, and installation) starting at £2,749. This provides a good guideline on the price you can expect to pay.

However, if you have already purchased a garage door, you only need to think about installation costs. As Alastair Mayne, COO at Garolla shares, “Professional fitting is key to the longevity and performance of your garage door.” He adds, “Labour costs range from £350 to £650 depending on where you live and how complex the job is."

As always, get quotes from three or four installers for more accurate pricing for your specific needs.

Garage door accessories

There’s a wide range of garage door accessories to choose from, some more obvious than others. Foster suggests “Electric openers (like this Chamberlain Comfort Garage Door Opener Kit from B&Q) and smart controls – allowing you to open and close your garage door remotely via smartphone.”

Beyond these, Foster says think about, “Windows or vision panels for natural light, weather seals (like this QWORK 6M Garage Door Rubber Seal from Amazon) to keep out draughts and sensors to detect if something is in front of a closing door.”

Adding or upgrading safety features is another sensible choice. Anthony Neary, security expert at Safe.co.uk, points out why, “Garage doors are a common target for burglars, so it’s vital to ensure they’re properly secured. He adds, “If the door relies on a basic manual lock, consider upgrading to a multi-point locking system or adding extra bolts for extra strength.”

Adding smart garage door technology is also a good choice. “The latest technology can help block signals from burglars, and send notifications to your mobile if the door is left open.” Neary continues, “Do not overlook garage windows, as they are a common way for burglars to gain entry. Fitting internal bars or applying privacy film can stop burglars from scoping out what’s inside.”

He ends with a word of advice: “Remember, the more difficult and time-consuming you make it to gain entry, the more likely an intruder will walk away.”

FAQs

Are insulated garage doors worth it?

The simple answer is yes, but it will depend on how a garage is used. If you use your garage to park your car, then there’s no need for an insulated door. The garage and door will provide enough protection.

But there are scenarios when an insulated garage is a real bonus, as Foster shares, “Insulated garage doors are definitely worth considering, especially if your garage is attached to your home or used as a workspace.”

He adds, “They help regulate temperature, reduce energy bills, and provide extra soundproofing.” But you will have to pay more for an insulated model, continues Foster, “While they are more expensive, they can make your garage far more comfortable and secure.”

There is the option to add insulation yourself, as Mayne points out, “Garage door insulation is available in foam sheets or insulation kits (like this SuperFOIL Garage Door Insulation Kit from Toolstation), easily found at most home improvement stores.” He adds, “These foam insulation kits are cost-effective and can reduce heat transfer by up to 97%.”

What type of garage door is the easiest to install?

Single up-and-over doors are considered the easiest type of garage door to install and one a competent DIYer can tackle. You will need to build a frame to attach the garage. This can be made from timber. Once the frame is in place, put the door in place, raise it around 10mm off the ground and then fix the spring-loaded bar and side tracks into place.

However, as a general rule, a garage door should be installed by a professional. Foster points out, “For garage doors – especially roller, sectional, or automated doors – I’d always recommend professional installation.”

He adds the reasons why, “It ensures the door is fitted safely, operates smoothly, and maintains your warranty. With Hillarys, our customers benefit from a complete end-to-end service included in the price.”

If you fancy an upgrade to a manual garage door, make sure to check out our electric garage doors guide. Follow this up by checking out our painting a garage door and how to maximise garage security to get more out of your garage door.

Seamless connections between the home and garden are key decisions for self-builders and renovators. Bifold or sliding doors have been the default options, but a new choice in the form of slide and turn doors has emerged with the award-winning vistaline system by IDSystems.

Full-height glazing is crucial for that connection, but both bifold and sliding doors have their limitations. Sliding doors are fixed, which limits the opening, and bifolds require significant sightlines due to the hinges, running gear, and locking mechanisms required.

So, what are the comparative benefits of slide and turn doors?

Benefits of slide and turn doors

Narrow sightlines

Like sliding doors, slide and turn systems feature narrow frames with intermediate frames just 45mm wide. This allows for larger glass panels and a clearer view.

Unobstructed openings

Slide and turn systems allow the panels to slide independently and stack neatly to one side, maximising the opening and creating a true indoor/outdoor connection.

Innovative tech

The real innovation in the vistaline system lies in its tech.

Panel operation

The system’s non-connected panels can be slid independently, providing flexibility in how the space is used.

Waterproof seals

The handle operation extends the side jamb to compress the panels, creating a weather-tight and secure seal. Patented ‘flipper seals’ in the track ensure that the doors remain weather-resistant, keeping out wind and rain.

Advanced performance

Available with double or triple glazing, the vistaline system can achieve incredible thermal efficiency standards with U values from just 1.1Wm2K.

Design flexibility

Whether you’re working on a renovation, extension, or new build, the slide and turn system can be tailored to suit various project requirements.

For more details, visit idsystems.co.uk/vistaline or email their expert team at info@idsystems.co.uk

Architectural glazing is a broad term, often interpreted differently by architects and glazing suppliers. But it typically refers to the use of extensive glass features which enhance a project’s design, rather than serving purely functional purposes.

Until fairly recently, architectural glazing would have been seen purely in large commercial projects, however, that is changing, with more and more complex glazing systems being used to maximise light and views in a domestic setting.

But, with such large items of glazing usually requiring a bespoke service, adding it to your self build design or extension usually involves more cost, time, and co-ordination between suppliers. We explain everything you need to know in our ultimate guide to architectural glazing.

Types of architectural glazing

If you're looking for something more than your average window, or set of bi-fold patio doors, what are your options for architectural glazing?

Edward Stobart, technical sales manager at IDSystems, explains that architectural glazing can "involve a single glazing product, such as glass curtain walling, or a combination of systems, such as glazed gables, doors and windows, to achieve the desired look and usability."

However, each type of architectural glazing has its own set of design advantages:

• Oriel windows – A type of window that extends beyond the main wall, supported by corbels or brackets, adding character and extra interior space
• Curtain walling – A fixed-frame glazed screen that can include opening elements like window sashes and entrance doors, or be integrated with sliding and bifold doors
• Structural glazing – “This refers to the way certain glazed products are constructed – typically using slim perimeter profiles, glass-to-glass corners, and silicon-sealed joints – to maximise the glass area and aesthetic appeal,” explains Bruce Moore, sales manager at Renka
• Wraparound glazing – A seamless glass corner effect where vertical and roof glazing meet.
• Glass-to-glass corners – Where glazing panels on perpendicular walls meet at a corner without a visible framework
• Glazed doors – More than just functional, glazed doors are often considered architectural glazing due to their visual impact as well as their practical application

Where to use architectural glazing

Architectural glazing creates a real ‘wow-factor’ and therefore is often utilised to maximise the appearance of a home.

“On the front of houses it is frequently utilised where double, or even triple height entrance halls are part of the design” says Edward Stobart. “These incredible hallways not only create a bright, light-filled entrance to a home, they also help to draw light further into the centre of the house.

“Across rear elevations, architectural glazing is often used to enhance the connection between house and garden, or in rural or coastal locations to make the most of stunning views over rolling fields or coastline,” he adds.

Choosing the right frame material

The choice of framing material for your architectural glazing plays a crucial role in the appearance, strength and thermal performance.

Steel is a common choice but according to Steve Bromberg, MD of Express Bi-Folding Doors, aluminium is without doubt the best material for architectural glazing. “It’s available in any colour, is slender and strong – perfect for large-format glazed products. This is why all large city buildings use aluminium throughout,” says Steve.

“Aluminium, timber or alu-clad are all strong frame materials that allow for large expansive panes and custom shapes, including standard rectangles and squares, as well as circles, ovals and triangles,” says Matt Higgs, MD of Klöeber.

“Advanced cutting, joining and bending techniques also allow for curved, arched, and freeform designs," he adds.

Factors influencing cost

Architectural glazing is a significant investment, and while "it can create an almost frameless look in certain areas, enhancing the feeling of openness in a space,” says Bruce Moore, "it is typically more expensive than standard windows and doors and requires more planning and coordination between homeowners, architects, and contractors.”

The three main factors influencing the cost of architectural glazing are:

1. Type of glass

“Laminated glass may be required for security reasons, but in large formats, it needs to be thicker, making it expensive,” says Steve Bromberg. “Triple glazing is excellent for heat retention, but as the size increases, so does the thickness and cost. Additionally, full-height glazing above the ground floor must be thicker as it acts as a safety barrier, adding to the expense.”

2. Labour and installation

Large glass panels require careful handling, often necessitating lifting equipment, scaffolding or even cranes. Additionally, fixed windows are generally more affordable compared to panoramic sliding doors.

3. Style and performance

“The more complex the shape and the more performance enhancements required – such as thermal efficiency, solar gain control, sound insulation, and security – the higher the price,” says Jonathan Story, Residential Market Manager at Schüco UK.

“Creating a flat glass wall with no moving parts would be at the lower end of the cost spectrum, whereas shaped, angled or curved moving elements would increase costs.

"Minimalist designs with sleek, slim frames also tend to be more expensive, as more engineering is required to hide hardware from view," he explains. "Additionally, the engineering behind the glass varies – installing a simple large rectangle as a window differs significantly from integrating it as a walkable rooflight, for example.”

Technical design features

As well as the aesthetics of your architectural glazing, you will also need to consider its technical design features.

"The research and development in architectural glazing is constantly pushing boundaries, making doors and windows taller and wider, while improving aesthetics, security, and insulation,” says Steve Bromberg. “Consumers want slimmer frames and more glass, while governments push for net-zero targets.”

Therefore when specifying your architectural glazing, there are therefore a whole host of additional design features you will need to consider to make your glazing work just that little bit harder, and also prevent your spaces from overheating.

• Solar control – The type of glass and its placement impact the need for solar control solutions. “While solar control glass such as Low-E, tinted, or reflective glass reduces heat and glare, external shading or blinds can also provide additional control,” says Matt Higgs. “In high-exposure areas, these solutions enhance comfort, privacy, and energy efficiency by managing light and temperature."
• Thermal efficiency – Energy efficient windows are a key consideration when selecting architectural glazing. "Go for double or triple glazing and only choose frames with low U-values,” says Matt. “Timber frames are naturally insulating. Low-emissivity (Low-E) coatings minimise heat transfer and tinted or reflective coatings help regulate solar gain. Positioning windows strategically and integrating shading solutions further enhance efficiency.”
• Smart technology – Architectural glazing is evolving to integrate smart home features, explains Matt. “Technologies like glass with hydrophilic coatings which allow self cleaning are useful in hard-to-reach areas like rooflights or gable glazing," he notes. "Triple glazing with argon gas improves insulation over double glazing. Many products now include smart locking mechanisms, motorised rooflights, and automated blinds that sync with home automation systems."

Building regulations and architectural glazing

“There are a number of building regulations that are in play when designing architectural glazing,” says Edward Stobart.

“The extent to which they have an impact on your design will vary depending on what you are building, the orientation of the house and even where you are in the country."

According to Edward, the most relevant building regulations requirements for glazing as follows:

Part L – Conservation of fuel and power: This covers energy efficiency for new and existing buildings and to comply with this you will need to be able to show that the thermal performance of your chosen glazing meets the required standards. Thermal efficiency is measured in U-values and the standards required will depend on whether you are building a new house or making alterations to an existing property. Part L may also impact the design of your architectural glazing because it lays out the maximum amount of glass that can be incorporated into a design, based on a proportion of the floor space.

Part Q – Security in dwellings: This covers home security and will impact the glazing specification required. More often than not, this means fitting security laminate glass on the ground floor of new-build properties to improve the security of the windows but this glazing specification is often utilised on other types of projects too, particularly in urban areas.

Part F – Ventilation: In terms of glazing in a domestic setting, this approved document ensures that adequate ventilation is provided for the residents of a house. This allows for the extraction of water vapour and air pollutants from a home to ensure the property remains habitable. Typically new windows and doors are required to incorporate trickle vents to provide background ventilation, unless an alternative method of mechanical ventilation such as MVHR is present in a house. Being able to incorporate trickle vents may impact on your choice of glazing.

Part O – Mitigating overheating: Given the large proportions of glazing, Part O is an incredibly important part of building regulations to take into account when considering architectural glazing for a residential project. Currently, Part O only applies to new-build homes and places the most stringent restrictions on south-facing elevations in areas deemed to be most at high risk, predominantly in London. If this applies to your project then understanding what can be achieved to mitigate overheating is crucial even from the first stages of design.

Tips for choosing architectural glazing

Investing in something as important as architectural glazing needs to come as a result of a well-thought out decision making process. As well as taking up a considerable part of your budget, it may be the most striking element of your exterior design and the first and last thing you see, every time you come home.

With this in mind, Edward Stobart shares his top five tips for choosing architectural glazing:

1. Consider the size
The design of your architectural glazing will likely be determined by the size of the opening and the structural calculations. Whilst narrow sightlines are attractive on structures such as glass curtain walling there will always be a trade-off between function and aesthetics.

2. Tailor it to your needs
Architectural glazing is almost always bespoke designed so that it can be tailored to the exact size and shape of each project. Every home is different and large glass facades will likely require structural engineering calculations to not only establish the wind loads the system is required to withstand, but also be to assess the height, width and proportion of glazing to frame that is necessary.

3. Choose experts
It is imperative that you and your architect work with an expert glazing supplier for larger and more complex glazing solutions like this. You need to be able to trust that they have the experience and knowledge required to design, manufacture and install a solution that not only looks good, but works technically for years to come. When choosing a supplier you should ideally be looking for a company that handles the whole process in house and isn’t reliant on third party fabricators or fitters – this is the best way to ensure complete peace of mind.

4. Go big
Architectural glazing is ideally suited for larger apertures because of its ability to maximise the amount of glass compared to smaller windows and solid walls. It is less suited to smaller openings typically formed for extension and renovation projects, where fixed frame windows and bifold doors or sliding patio doors may be more suitable options.

5. Involve your supplier as early as possible
Companies such as ID Systems often work closely with architects to make recommendations on designs and aperture sizes as projects progress from the drawing board. Involving a glazing supplier at this early stage will ensure you get the best possible result and avoid compromises further down the line caused by potential limitations of systems or size constraints.

While architectural glazing often focuses on the exterior features of your home, it can often become a focus inside the home too. Find more inspiration with our guide to internal window ideas, covering everything from floor glazing panels through to seamless glass walls.

If you want to ensure your home stands out from the crowd, investing in a unique front door is a great place to start.

Much more than simply the entrance to your home, the style and materials you choose for your door can set the tone for the entire look of your house as well as introduce instant kerb appeal to create a lasting first impression.

Whether you’re building a new property from scratch, renovating a house or looking to give the exterior of your home a smart new look, a front door from Inspiration Doors could be the ultimate finishing touch you’re looking for.

Modern style with traditional values

Shaped by tradition but inspired by modern living, Inspiration Doors is a family-owned business that creates stylish, high-quality and customisable doors for new builds and home renovations.

When aluminium and PVC materials began to dominate the window and door market, the team behind Inspiration Doors saw an opportunity to create something better.

Rather than compete with mass-produced options, the company developed a range of doors that marry precision engineering with design-led aesthetics.

Inspired by the Cornish landscape

Rooted in the craft of traditional joinery, the design team draws inspiration from the striking landscapes and rich textures of Cornwall – from windswept coastlines to stone-built cottages. Each door is uniquely crafted in the UK to bring warmth, character and individuality to homes across the UK and further afield.

Experts in traditional joinery and craftmanship for more than four decades, its team are master craftspeople who are passionate about the entrance doors they create.

With a focus on individuality and quality rather than mass production, every door is made to order, combining traditional values with innovative ideas and cutting-edge design.

Statement material options

As each door is unique, the design can be perfectly tailored to your project, so whether you want a timeless front door, a contemporary oversized design or a sleek pivot door, there’s an option to suit.

There’s also a wide range of striking materials to choose from:

• Metal Create a truly unique front door with a choice of copper, copper patina, bronze, bronze patina iron oxidised and gunmetal front doors.
• Slate Inspired by the rugged Cornish coastline, a slate stone front door finish will bring a natural beauty to your home.
• Marble For a sophisticated and elegant look, choose sintered marble finished front doors in Marquini Black, Invisible White or Orobico dark.
• Oak If you prefer the beauty and warmth of a natural woodgrain finish, an oak finish premium front door is the one for you.

You can personalise your front door further with your choice of door hardware, plus there’s also the option to integrate smart door security.

Doors that are built to last

As you might expect from an artisan company that prides itself on craftsmanship, these one-of-a-kind front doors are built with longevity in mind.

The core of its doors are manufactured in ultra-secure, energy-efficient and fully certified Accoya and Tricoya modified wood timber technologies.

When combined with highly durable finishes, plus the latest in multi-point locking and smart home security options, these doors are low maintenance and incredibly durable. They are also designed to exceed current and future Building Regulations with U-values as low as 0.79w/m2k.

A collaborative process

Whether you're a homeowner designing your dream entrance or a professional crafting bespoke projects, Inspiration Doors will work with you to bring your vision to life.

From the initial design consultation to installation of the finished product, the team is on hand to offer advice and expertise every step of the way.

Throughout the process, you’ll benefit from a personalised service with regular updates, delivering unparalleled service and attention to detail.

To start your dream front door journey and get an initial quote, visit the Inspiration Doors website or connect with the company via Facebook, Pinterest, Linkedin and Instagram for more inspiration.

Insulating a garage door is a job that often gets overlooked by homeowners who use the space for nothing more than storage, yet carrying out this task has so many benefits that make it really worthwhile.

It is important to realise that it isn't just those considering a garage conversion that need to think about insulating the space – keeping the temperature inside your garage stable has many advantages, no matter what you intend on using it for.

Our expert-led guide is here to lend a hand, explaining what the job involves, the products you'll need and how much to budget to take the project from start to finish.

Why is insulating a garage door a good idea?

For anyone not planning on using this space for garage conversion ideas, it can be a bit of a mystery why this is a job worth doing – but there are actually several reasons why it makes sense.

"Insulating a garage door is one of the smartest upgrades you can make. Especially if you're converting the space into a home office, gym, or workshop or even just looking to keep things more comfortable year-round,' explains Myles Robinson, founder and home expert at UK Composite Doors. "Garage doors are typically made from thin metal or timber panels, and without insulation, they let in cold air during the winter and trap heat in the summer. So, whether you're spending time in there or just want to protect what's stored inside, insulation helps regulate temperature, reduces noise, and can even help with energy efficiency if the garage is attached to the house.’’

Alastair Mayne, CEO of Garolla, wholly agrees.

"Many garage doors, particularly older models, are made from uninsulated metal or wood, which can lead to major temperature fluctuations inside your garage," says Alistair. "Insulation for your garage door can prevent this, working to maintain a more stable temperature inside."

What type of insulation is best for garage doors?

There are lots of different types of insulation so it is important to know which will be best for upping the thermal efficiency of your garage door. Samuel Hitch, MD at Buy Insulation Online, has some advice on the three main types to consider.

"Polystyrene foam (EPS) is an affordable and lightweight option that comes in rigid boards," he begins. "It provides decent insulation and is easy to cut and install with adhesive or tape. However, the thickness should be limited to whatever does not impede the opening and closing of the doors.

"You can also use PIR boards, but these are heavier and may be trickier to keep attached to the doors over the years," continues Samuel. "The reason EPS is suggested is due to its very lightweight nature

"You could also consider multifoil Insulation," adds Samuel. "This consists of multiple reflective layers with insulation in between. It offers better thermal performance than EPS on a per mm thickness basis and can also act as a draught barrier. It's lightweight and can be easily installed onto doors with adhesive and foil tape."

Finally, it is easy to find kits designed specifically for this job.

"Garage door insulation is available in foam sheets or insulation kits, easily found at most home improvement stores," advises Alistair Mayne. "These foam insulation kits are cost-effective and can reduce heat transfer by up to 97%."

How do you insulate a garage door?

The good news for anyone mulling over this project, seeking to have the best garage doors they can, is that it is a very achievable DIY job.

"Most standard garage door insulation projects are very doable as a DIY job," confirms Myles Robinson. "You'll need a sharp utility knife, a measuring tape and some strong adhesive or double-sided tape, plus a bit of patience to get everything cut neatly.

"If you’re using a rigid foam board, it helps to tape over the edges to prevent crumbling and you should always make sure you’re not interfering with the door’s mechanics or weight balance, especially if it’s on a tensioned spring system.’’

‘’The best method depends a bit on what you’re using the space for," continues Myles. "If it's being converted into a living space, you'll want something with higher insulation value, like foil-backed rigid foam board or polystyrene panels. These can be cut to fit between the panels of a sectional door and fixed in place with adhesive. If you're not doing a full conversion and just want to take the edge off the chill, reflective foil insulation or garage door insulation kits (which often include pre-cut panels and adhesive pads) are easy to work with and do a decent job.’’

Shop garage insulation toolkit

Can you insulate roller garage doors?

While up-and-over and hinged doors are not too tricky to insulate, if you are dealing with roller garage doors, things can get a little more complicated.

"Roller doors are more challenging for DIY insulation," warns Samuel Hitch. "Thin reflective foil might be an option, but professional installation or replacement with an insulated door is often recommended due to the fact that any insulation on a roller door would be compressed, therefore negating the insulation's effectiveness."

Is it better to fit new garage doors?

In some cases, it is going to be a better idea to simply replace old garage doors with new rather than futilely trying to insulate what you have.

"If you have old up-and-over garage doors you are likely to still let a lot of heat or cold air in through the gaps around the edge of your garage door," explains Alistair Mayne.

"For a more seamless and aesthetically pleasing solution, consider opting for a garage door with built-in insulation," continues Alistair. "If you're in the market for a new garage door anyway, a pre-insulated model is your best bet for functionality, appearance, and longevity.

"Insulated roller doors are the ideal solution for retaining the heat in your garage," adds Alistair. "They are engineered from interlinked twin-walled aluminium slats filled with high-density polyurethane foam. Not only does this make roller garage doors strong and secure, but it also ensures they offer sound and temperature insulation benefits to help you make more of your space."

How much does it cost to insulate a garage door?

Insulating your garage doors should not be too costly, particularly if you carry out the work yourself and it will certainly save you on new garage door costs.

‘’Cost-wise, it varies depending on the method. A DIY insulation kit from a retailer like Wickes or B&Q will typically set you back around £50 to £100," says Myles Robinson. "If you’re going the rigid board route and sourcing materials yourself, it might be a bit cheaper, depending on the size of your door."

"EPS boards can cost between £50 and £200+ for a single door," adds Samuel Hitch. "Multifoil options are typically between £90 and £300."

If you decide that replacement is better, expect costs far higher than this, although the end result may well be worth it in certain cases.

"Professionally fitted insulated doors can cost anywhere from £800 to £1,500 or more, depending on size and style,’’ says Myles Robinson.

FAQs

What are the common mistakes when insulating a garage door?

If you have decided to go ahead and insulate your garage doors, you will want to make sure the time and money you spend on the job is worthwhile. There are a couple of common mistakes to avoid if you want to get your garage design spot on.

"Think about ventilation at the same time," points out Myles Robinson. "Once you’ve insulated the door and sealed things up, it’s important to make sure there’s still some airflow – especially if you’re working or exercising in the space. Even just adding a trickle vent or using a dehumidifier can make a big difference in keeping the space comfortable and avoiding condensation buildup."

Home improvement expert Farook Member from QS Supplies has another tip to share.

"Don't forget to fill gaps! Seal along edges with weatherstripping and a bottom seal to avoid drafts," says Farook. "And check the weight of the door after insulating in case it becomes too heavy, as this can strain your opening mechanism. In such a case, you may have to adjust spring tension or reach out to a professional."

If you decide you want to use your garage for more than just storing your car or gardening equipment, it might be time to consider some garage extension ideas to ensure you are making the most of the space.

If you're considering building an extension, the reason why is generally defined by the need for more space. And while it's common to see extensions created to house kitchens, if you're opting for an extension to increase your communal spaces, you may be on the hunt for living room extension ideas.

Although open plan extensions often incorporate some additional living zones, living room extensions work particularly well when they not only expand your space indoors, but also improve your connection with the outdoors.

We've found five great examples of living room extension ideas done well, including before and after pictures and expert advice, so you can start planning yours.

1. A staggered extension design can help zone the inside

As is commonly found in London properties, this lower ground floor flat was dark and struggling with a poor internal layout. The owners were keen to stay in the area, but needed more space for the family and also wanted to improve their connection with the valuable outdoor space.

"We were keen to make two big changes at the property" says Melissa Robinson, architect and director at MW Architects who designed the scheme. "We wanted to connect the living spaces to the rear garden which was being beautifully redesigned by the client who was a landscape gardener and to create an open plan living space that felt defined," she explains.

Their approach was to do two things. Reverse the layout of the flat inside, and extend into the garden outside so that the main living spaces had direct access to the outdoors.

"Due to the layout of the flat - a courtyard option presented itself quickly on one side which then led naturally to two further projections one to the opposite side and one to the rear, which each then provided a different use within the overall space," says Melissa Robinson.

Inside, a series of light wells were also added to bring light into the living spaces and the bedrooms that were now moved to the front of the property. And, although the extension doubles up as an open plan kitchen extension, a number of clever architectural features were employed to help create separate zones.

Lowering the ceiling in the living area created the feeling of an inglenook and has become a cosy zone for movies and bedtime stories.

The kitchen and dining areas are more open plan, with the kitchen occupying its rightful place in the heart of the home and offering views throughout the length of the property – perfect for watching the children playing in the garden. But, the stepped exterior design combined with stepped ceilings inside provides a sense of defined cooking, living and dining spaces that can equally adapt over time to suit the family's changing needs.

Connection to the outdoors has also been achieved in a number of ways.

"The different external projections of the extension led to complimentary external spaces in the ‘gaps’ which adds further definition outside," explains Melissa. "The design also meant that the physical connection to the garden was strong on all sides as we were able to get light in on almost every edge."

Large pivot doors provide uninterrupted access to the outdoors, deep window seats offer a spot to sit and enjoy the garden views, regardless of the weather, while a wraparound window further blurs the boundaries.

"The result is a relaxed and modest space that feels secluded due to its sunken position and yet remains bright and airy - an unusual combination," Melissa. "It's quite wonderful as you feel like you are in larger spaces than you are, but with enough definition to feel contained, but with the feeling of the outside being inside also very present throughout."

2. Lowering the ground floor helped create a truly indoor/outdoor living room extension idea

As with the previous living room extension idea, one of the driving forces behind this project was finding a way to improve the relationship with the outdoors.

"The project was a four storey early to mid Victorian house in North London, to which we added a single storey living room and kitchen extension," explains Spencer Guy, a director at Levitate, the practise that designed this extension.

"A common problem with London terraced houses is that they have a poor relationship between the inside and the garden. This is because the ground floor is often raised, or the houses are on a sloping site. That was the case with this house," he says noting how the the ground floor was originally half a level up from the garden.

"We were asked to suggest ways that the property could be altered such that it became more suitable to the client’s way of life," expands Spencer Guy.

The solution? "As the property already provided enough space for the family, our ideas focused upon improving the relationship between the inside of the house and the garden. We also wanted to make the kitchen as the central space in the house, at the heart of the property," says Spencer.

This was achieved by removing the floor of a second rear sitting room and lowering this to the level of the garden and converting it into the kitchen. The kitchen therefore becomes nearly double height and links the upper floors of the house with a new rear extension.

"The practical use of fibre glass as roof coverings helped achieve the form and solve the detailing at the junctions," adds Spencer, "while the use of two sets of large bi-fold patio doors, opened up the corner of the new room.

"You can completely push open the glazing onto the mature garden, and the no-step access with complimentary internal and external floor treatments, creates an optimal indoor outdoor living space."

3. Think outside the box with your living room extension ideas

When designing an extension, a good architect will find a variety of ways to add interest. Whether this is through the materials, glazing, size or shape of your new space, it's always fun to incorporate a little thinking 'outside of the box'.

In the case of this living room extension idea, they took the box and literally turned it. Not on its head, but at an angle. Why? To maximise light and create maximum visual interest.

"We were asked by the clients to turn their disjointed home, comprising of lots of small separate spaces, into an open bright and light filled home that better suited their needs as a young family who love to host and entertain," explains Yaniv Peer director of Iguana Architects.

"Our brief was to increase the footprint and increase the light and this unique angled design was the outcome. The large skylights and rear doors flood the space with light, even on a grey London day. Having lived in a dark, cramped space, they wanted more than anything for it to feel clean and bright," explains Yaniv Peer.

The theme of light and bright followed into the interior finishes too, with simple, unfussy decor being the main choice.

The property also boasts eco-credentials too. The green roofs on the new extensions reduce water runoff, provide insulation, improve air quality, create a habitat for wildlife, enhance aesthetics, and mitigate the urban heat island effect by lowering surrounding air temperatures.

4. Breathe new life into a traditional home with a modern extension

Located in Edinburgh, this semi-detached Victorian villa had previously been extended but instead of uniting the house and garden, it merely served to provide a cold barrier, explains Duglad Skene, architect and director of DS Architecture, the practise responsible for designing the new, modern extension.

"However, the potential of the lower level was clear, offering an opportunity to create a new heart to the home including a new kitchen, a family dining area and an informal living space that engaged fully with the north facing garden and invited as much natural light into the space as possible," says Dugald.

Although the overall design of the extension is bold and modernist, high quality and natural materials were chosen that are sympathetic to the existing home, including standstone and zinc.

Inside, clerestory windows and archways help to create zones between kitchen, dining and living spaces while allowing a more open-plan and light filled feel.

Practicality was also important to the family and a boot room was added to the design which is accessed on the lower level from the side driveway, providing a functional threshold protecting the indoors from the outdoor elements.

5. Double up with indoor and outdoor living room extension ideas

Would you believe this vast extension was the previous site of a conservatory idea?

Adam Knibb Architects was briefed with creating a unique and contemporary addition to the period property, all while ensuring the existing charm of the current home remained.

The response was to create a full width single storey ground floor extension that added space, light and plenty of new living spaces.

Large glazing features on the garden facing side of the extension in order to bring light into the new spaces, while from the front of the property, the new extension isn't visible to ensure security and privacy.

Inside, an open plan kitchen diner links to the existing home, acting as a central connection between old and new, while comfy seating areas offer places to sit and relax.

So, if you are thinking of living room extension ideas, what is the best advice to follow and is it the same as considering other types of extensions?

"If you are thinking of a living room extension the best advice we can offer is to plan thoroughly and allow time for preparation," says Yaniv Peer. "Control every feasible element. Make sure the design meets your needs in terms of layout and functionality, as well as style," he adds.

"Find an architect to help you secure planning permission, undertake drainage surveys, arrange party wall agreements and guide you through the design process as a while, and if possible, engage an interior designer for a cohesive aesthetic," advises Yanner. "And finally, make sure you've finalise all first and second fix details before the tender process in order to avoid costly on-site changes and project delays."

Whether you’re selling or buying a house without a FENSA certificate, it’s vital to be aware that its absence can cause hold-ups in the conveyancing process. And it could even bring a halt to the sale.

During the process of buying a house, the purchaser’s legal enquiries can reveal that there isn’t certification from FENSA – or CERTASS or another government-approved scheme – that shows the installation of windows and/or doors complies with building regulations. Lack of this approval is the crux of the problem.

But what can you do as either a buyer or a seller if certification is missing? This is what you need to know.

What is a FENSA certificate?

Since April 2002 in England and Wales replacement windows and doors must comply with building regulations. Typically, this is achieved by employing an installer who’s a member of a competent person scheme and can self-certify that their work complies with building regulations.

FENSA (the Fenestration Self-Assessment Scheme) was the first government-authorised scheme monitoring building regulations compliance for replacement windows and doors, and issues the FENSA certificate as proof that an installation is compliant. FENSA is not the only authorised scheme: CERTASS installers can also self-certify their work, as can those from the smaller Assure.

“It is not a FENSA or a CERTASS certificate that is required in and of itself, it is the evidence of compliance with building regulations that these certificates provide,” explains Natalie Beard, conveyancer at SAS Daniels. “A householder could alternatively apply for consent from the local authority although it would be a lengthier process,” she points out.

Be aware that not all works to windows and glazing require consent. “Windows or glazing installed before April 2002 will not necessitate consent,” says Natalie. “If it is merely a case of repairing broken glass, replacing fogged units or replacing parts of the window frame, building regulation consent is not required. Similarly, in the case of a door that contains glazing, if less than 50 per cent of the door and frame is glazed then consent is not required.”

Selling without a FENSA certificate

If you don’t have evidence of building regulations compliance via a FENSA certificate, other government-approved scheme, or from the local authority when you’re selling a home, there are options open to you.

Lost certificate

If the only issue is that a FENSA certificate is lost, this is easy to solve. You can find and order a FENSA certificate. There is a fee of £25 for online orders and £30 if you pay by cheque.

Retrospective consent

As a seller, you could get in touch with the local authority.

“You can apply for retrospective consent from the local authority,” says Natalie Beard. “But you run the risk of them taking enforcement action against you for a breach of building regulations and you also may be required to carry out remedial works to make the works compliant before they will grant consent.”

Indemnity policy

“The easiest option would be to obtain an indemnity policy for breach of building regulations and this would financially protect you and your future buyer from enforcement action,” says Natalie Beard.

“These policies only seek to compensate the owner for any local authority enforcement action,” she says. “They do not stop the enforcement action and they also are of no assistance should the glazing work fail.”

Buying without a FENSA certificate

If you’ve put an offer in on a home that doesn’t have a FENSA certificate or other evidence of building regulations compliance, bear in mind that this can affect your mortgage application.

“Mortgage lenders require reassurance that any structural changes, including window and door replacements, comply with building regulations,” says Andrew Boast, founder of SAM Conveyancing.

“If a property does not have a FENSA certificate for its double glazing, lenders may view this as a potential risk, particularly if the work was carried out after 1 April 2002, when compliance became mandatory,” Andrew says. “The absence of a certificate raises concerns that the windows may not meet safety and thermal performance standards or that the installation was not done correctly. Some lenders may refuse to proceed with the mortgage until the issue is resolved, while others may require additional documentation or indemnity insurance to mitigate the risk.”

There’s a further complication. “Without a FENSA certificate, there is no automatic confirmation that the installation has been reported to the local authority,” says Andrew. “If the windows were installed without proper notification, the local authority has the legal right to demand retrospective approval or even require corrective work to be carried out. This could lead to unexpected costs and delays, which can impact the mortgage approval process.

“If a FENSA certificate is missing, steps can be taken to resolve the issue, but failing to address it could lead to delays or even the mortgage being declined,” he adds.

If this is the case, below are the options for a buyer.

Local authority records check

If it’s a case of a missing FENSA certificate, this can be replaced. See above for details.

But if the certificate can’t be found? “Another option is to check whether the local authority has a record of the installation in its building control records,” says Andrew Boast. “Some councils may have been notified even if the original certificate has been lost. Your solicitor can request this information as part of the conveyancing process.”

Retrospective consent

As we noted above, the seller can apply for a retrospective building regulation compliance certificate, often referred to as a letter of regularisation.

This can be time-consuming, Andrew Boast points out.

Indemnity insurance

Indemnity insurance is an option, as noted above. “The buyer can take out building regulations indemnity insurance,” says Andrew Boast.

But, as previously mentioned, there are limits to this cover. “Indemnity insurance does not cover physical defects in the windows or doors, nor does it apply if the local authority has already been informed of the issue,” Andrew says.

It would prove to be one of the additional costs of buying a house, and typically ranges from £180 to £500, Andrew says.

Questions about your glazing’s compliance with building regulations will be asked during conveyancing, and sellers should be aware that “a nervous buyer may be dissuaded by work carried out without the proper consents”, says Natalie Beard. And if you’re thinking of buying a home without FENSA certification, don’t forget that the same questions will be asked of you when you come to sell.

From rooflights to dormers, there are a number of options to consider when selecting your loft windows and your final choice will be determined by factors such as the roof design, orientation of the space, room shape and usage.

But, while talking to your architect about what you want to achieve with your loft conversion will all influence what you purchase and how your loft ultimately looks, other factors such as planning permission, building regulations and structural issues will also play a part in deciding which is the right type of loft window for your extension.

In this guide to loft windows we take a look at the options available so you can understand which will be the best glazing solution for your extension project.

Types of loft windows

When it comes to choosing the right type of loft windows for your loft conversion ideas, although letting enough light in will play a part in your decision making, it's not the main deciding factor, says George Vizor, director of Woodrow Vizor Architects.

“Lofts are typically the brightest part of a home, so we don't tend to worry about them being too dark,” she says. “Instead, we focus more on the views out and internal space planning.

"We also always undertake concept studies to explore options and specifications to find the best solution," she adds. "This could be integrating window frames into fixed joinery for a clean material palette; using sliding doors and windows free from inward swings to allow more flexible furniture layouts, or ensuring opposing windows aid cross ventilation.”

So what are the main options available to you when choosing the best loft windows to use in your overall design?

Dormer windows

In the UK, dormer loft conversions are one of the most popular types of loft conversion meaning dormer windows are subsequently one of the most common types of glazing seen in loft conversions and extensions.

But what makes dormers a popular choice?

“Dormers are designed like a raised box shape that protrudes out of the original roof of the property and are popular as they provide additional headspace, and usable floor space in lofts, which usually have low or sloping ceilings,” explains Rebecca Clayton, communications director at IQ Glass.

In terms of the types of loft windows you can use, this largely depends on the size and style of your dormer. However, casement windows, a popular style of window used in many properties can be suitable and beneficial if you are looking to match the style of your loft windows to the rest of your home.

Rooflights

Another popular option when extending into your loft is a Velux loft conversion. As well as a type of window commonly referred to using the Velux brand name, the more generic term for this type of loft window is rooflight.

Rooflights are a good solution for when there isn’t space for vertical windows. They follow the slope of the roof and can fill a room with natural light from above, however as they are angled towards the sky, they won’t capture any views.

Manual and electrical roof windows allow for control over the airflow, while some include rain sensors that automatically close in wet weather. In some projects automated smoke ventilation windows may also be specified to fall in line with fire safety regulations.

“Rooflights are most commonly used on the front roof slopes, but can obviously be used anywhere," says Melissa Robinson, director at MW Architects. "However, people tend to avoid fixed flat roof lights at loft level as they can’t be accessed for cleaning. This also means specifying self-cleaning glass is a good tip for loft glazing whether they are openable or not,” she adds.

Another option if you have access to a rooftop garden from your loft conversion is a sliding box access rooflight, suggests Rebecca Clayton, noting how they are perfect for terraced or townhouse-style homes. Operated electronically by the push of a button, they can allow the inhabitants the opportunity to step outside if access permits.

Gable end windows, picture windows and doors

Other loft window types in larger projects can include gable-end windows, picture windows, full height windows, balcony windows or even sliding or bi-fold doors. And while they all provide vast amounts of light, they also come with some additional considerations.

“Gable-end windows are an impressive installation within loft conversions,” says Rebecca Clayton. “The gable-end (the triangular upper section of the side of a property that has a ridged roof) can provide an impressive influx of natural light while also creating stunning views. In some instances," she adds, it may even be possible to install a loft conversion balcony, giving the feeling of outdoor access."

However, when installing large windows in a loft, “if full height glazing is used then the glass needs to be thicker for building regulations," says Steve Bromberg, managing director of Express Bi-folding Doors, "and if doors are included, then a Juliet loft balcony will be needed as well."

Positioning loft windows

Where you place your windows will largely depend on the type of loft conversion you are adding, as well as your loft layout ideas. Nonetheless, positioning loft windows will require getting the right balance between light, privacy and ensuring you have the maximum amount of space in your loft conversion.

One of the types of loft window that can require extra consideration is rooflights, as while it may be tempting to install numerous rooflights to flood the space with light, a more strategic approach can yield better results.

“The adage "less is more" often rings true and careful placement of fewer, well-positioned rooflights can create a more dramatic and visually striking effect while also mitigating the risk of overheating,” says Sean Ronnie Hill, founder of Rise Design Studio.

And, while it may seem they only provide light and loft ventilation, they can also add head height to a sloping ceiling. “Placed to the side of a bed, in front of a WC or over a shower or bath for example can help you maximise a low headroom space by giving an extra 15-20cm,” says George Vizor. This may not seem like a great deal but it in fact opens up layouts that would not have been possible otherwise.

However, as they are positioned above head height, screening such as built-in blinds is also recommended for rooflights, especially if they are positioned directly over a bed in loft bedroom conversion ideas so that you're not woken by bright, early morning light.

Structural considerations

When specifying your loft windows, the loft structure will need to be assessed to ensure that it is strong enough to support additional glazing and your architect or builder should check the weights with your supplier.

"Pyramid rooflights, for example, are very heavy and need lifting into position," advises Steve Bromberg. "Likewise bonded and frameless skylights will need to be carried into place, so access and safety must be considered.”

“Some of our windows can weigh up to 220kg,” adds Jessica Draper, digital & marketing executive at Fakro, "but they can all be fitted from the inside or outside, depending on what access you have.”

Preventing overheating

Lofts are renowned for overheating and glazing can play a large part in this so it's important to take this into account when deciding on positioning, functionality and the type of glass you specify for your loft windows.

“Too much glazing alongside the thermal upgrading of the roof that naturally happens in loft conversions, can result in these rooms being quite warm,” says Melissa Robinson.

The orientation of your property can also affect this, so where possible it is advisable to install the largest, or main proportion of rooflights to the north facing side of the building in order to achieve light but minimal solar gain.

“All openings being made need to be carefully thought through and integrated into the wider strategy of loft insulation and construction detailing, says George Vizor. “Small changes such as the use of triple glazing or introducing external blinds and solar control glass can dramatically change the thermal comfort of a loft making it far more usable in the summer without having to go down an air conditioning route.”

On the flip side, glass is often where heat escapes, so you want glazing with a good U value to prevent this. “The ability to open the glazing in the loft is important for natural ventilation and airflow. Trickle vents should also be used for the same reason, otherwise moisture will build up in the space," adds Steve Bromberg.

Rules and regulations

“Generally speaking the majority of loft conversions are carried out under householder permitted development rights (PD). This does mean that as long as you are within the permitted development guidelines for size and materiality, the form, and equally the windows, have more design freedom,” says Melissa Robinson.

“Adding glazing to your loft will generally fall under PD as long as you are using similar materials to those in the rest of the existing house. But it is always worth getting a certificate of lawful development from your local council to confirm this so you don't encounter any problems later on,” adds George Vizor.

“Plus any windows or rooflights on the side elevation have to follow stricter guidelines to prevent overlooking your neighbours.”

Building regulations will also have an impact on your glazing choices regarding factors such as safety and fire escapes.

“Setting out clear window sill heights and how windows open is key to complying with building regulations and particularly Part K (Protection from falling)," says George. "Any glazing below 80cm needs to be toughened or protected by a balustrade if openable."

Tips for a smooth loft window installation

“Common mistakes people make when selecting loft glazing include overcrowding the space with too many rooflights, neglecting the importance of ventilation and underestimating the challenges of installation, particularly in terraced properties where access can be limited," says Sean Ronnie Hill. "It's also crucial to consider both U-values and G-values to ensure a comfortable living space year-round”

"Architects tend to want everything as big as possible, but in town houses cranes are required to lift the product into place which will involve shutting down the road," warns Steve Bromberg. "The products may also need servicing, so if there is ever an issue with the product, or it needs replacing, then remember the crane will need to be hired again.

"And finally, don't forget to schedule in your scaffolding," he adds. "If there are works going on at the ground floor the scaffolding needs to be down, so often your overall renovation will need to be phased, with the loft installation taking place first.”

If you're embarking on a loft conversion extension, find out the answer to how long does a loft conversion takes so you can work out the best time to start, and if you're not sure you have sufficient head height, see if raising a roof for a loft conversion could provide you with a solution.

ECLISSE Pocket Doors are perfect for smaller spaces where you need to free up space. They make narrow hallways seem spacious, give small bathrooms a little extra room to add much wanted storage and give quick and easy access to a utility room.

But it's not just small spaces that can take advantage of the ECLISSE Pocket Doors system. They can act as clever room dividers that transform larger areas into smaller, compact spaces when you want some privacy. And with a quick and smooth slide you can quickly revert back to your larger space, offering superb flexibility and style in a neat easy to install package.

The big plus of ECLISSE Pocket Doors

There’s a lot on offer with ECLISSE Pocket Doors systems, and one of its key features is its space saving capabilities. They can slide and hide into a pocket in the wall, eliminating the need for the swing space that traditional hinged doors need. Perfect for freeing up space to add smart new furniture, bookcases or creating new layouts with no restrictions.

You can choose from the classic single pocket door to enhance your bathroom, en-suite, pantry, or utility room. Or, alternatively the classic double pocket door is perfect for introducing multi-functional use to large open plan areas. Simply close to transform an area into a warm, cosy and inviting nook to enjoy a quiet evening or leave open to entertain.

Why you should choose ECLISSE Pocket Doors

You can choose pocket doors, but then you can choose ECLISSE Pocket Doors. Not all pocket door systems are the same and ECLISSE Pocket Doors are a stand out candidate in the market.

To make sure you get a quick, hassle-free fit the ECLISSE system assembles into a complete unit that is made to measure for one door size so it fits first time, every time. Everything you need is included, you even get the screws you need to attach the plasterboard to the frame.

You won’t need to worry about rust thanks to the ECLISSE galvanised steel system, making it ideal for high moisture areas like bathrooms and basements. And its maintenance-free runners are neatly enclosed in a track so that they stay smooth and stable.

Before you go, make sure you check out this super fast installer who demonstrates how quick and easy the system is to install. They manage to put together a single classic frame in less than 15 minutes.

Keep up-to-date with the world of ECLISSE Pocket Doors

ECLISSE Pocket Door Systems should be a serious consideration for your next home renovation project. If you like what you’ve read about this space-saving system you can find out the latest developments on their socials and website. Here you’ll get their latest news, in-depth product information, informational videos and discover what’s upcoming and what’s new.

Facebook - EclisseUK - https://www.facebook.com/EclisseUK
Instagram - @eclisse_uk_ltd - https://www.instagram.com/eclisse_uk_ltd/

Double glazing is a smart investment for keeping your home warm, quiet, and energy efficient. But the answer to how long do double glazed windows last depends on a variety of factors. Over time age, exposure to the elements, and general wear and tear can all take their toll, causing seals to weaken, frames to deteriorate, and insulation to become less effective.

While some signs of wear can be repaired, others indicate it’s time to upgrade or replace your windows. The good news is that with the right care, double-glazed windows can last for decades. Whether you have uPVC, timber, or aluminium frames, regular maintenance and early intervention can extend their lifespan – keeping your windows looking and performing their best for years to come.

How long do double-glazed windows last?

"On average you can expect double-glazed windows to last around 25-30 years," explains Paul Higgins, commercial director of Tuffx Glass. "If the window is exposed to extreme weather, you can expect this lifespan to be a bit shorter, at around 20 years."

How long do double glazed windows last according to their frame type

The type of window frame you have will impact how long your double glazing lasts, as each material has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Timber Frames

"Timber-framed windows are aesthetically pleasing and offer excellent insulation. With proper care, wooden-framed double glazing can last 30 to 40 years," explains Matt Higgs, managing director at Kloeber. "We only uses engineered timber at Kloeber, which is stronger and more stable than normal timber and due to the multi-coat, microporous paint system, is low maintenance."

“If timber frames are maintained properly with sealing and painting, I think you can make them last longer than uPVC,” adds Paul Higgins. “Treat them regularly with seal and paint. If you don’t, the wood will rot over time.”

Top tip: Inspect the surface coating of your timber frames once a year. If it looks worn or damaged, refresh it with a micro-porous stain or paint to keep the wood protected. Always choose micro-porous finishes, as non-micro-porous options like yacht varnish need frequent stripping and reapplication.

uPVC Frames

"The most common choice in UK homes, uPVC double glazing typically lasts 20 to 25 years depending on quality and wear and tear/upkeep," explains Matt Higgs.

To keep uPVC frames in top condition, Paul Higgins recommends regular cleaning. "If the windows are stained, use a uPVC cleaner or a warm water and white vinegar solution."

Top Tip: You can also lubricate moving parts of your windows, such as hinges, locks, and handles with WD-40 Smart Straw Oil Lubricant from DIY.com to ensure they operate smoothly. This simple step can prevent stiffness and prolong the lifespan of the hardware.

Aluminium Frames

"Known for their sleek design, minimal sightlines and strength, aluminium windows are highly resistant to corrosion and wear. High-quality aluminium double glazing can last 30 to 45 years," explains Matt Higgs. "Kloeber offer thermally broken aluminium frames which reduces heat transfer, improving energy performance."

Paul Higgins suggests cleaning aluminium frames every three months to prevent the buildup of dirt and grime. In coastal or industrial areas, where exposure to salt and pollutants is higher, monthly cleaning is advisable.

Top tip: After cleaning, ensure that the frames are completely dry to prevent corrosion. While aluminium is resistant to rust, prolonged exposure to moisture can cause oxidation over time.

What factors influence how long double-glazing lasts?

Several factors can affect how long double glazing lasts, from the type of frame to the weather conditions it faces. The biggest factors that can shorten its lifespan are harsh weather, poor installation, and lack of maintenance.

The good news is that regular care and professional installation can help your windows last much longer. Paul Higgins highlights the importance of maintenance:

"Keeping the windows clean plays a huge part in reducing any issues. You should inspect them every year to make sure there isn't any damage to the frame or the seal. If there are any signs of damage, make sure they are replaced or repaired as soon as possible."

Four warning signs your double-glazing needs repairing or replacing

If you’ve made it this far and are starting to wonder if your double-glazed windows have seen better days, don’t worry. Matt Higgs shares some key signs to look out for that could mean it’s time for a repair or replacement:

1. Draughts

If you're feeling a cold breeze around your windows – even when they’re closed – this is a tell-tale sign that something isn’t right. Draughts usually mean the seals around the glass or frame have deteriorated, making your home colder and less energy-efficient.

You could try caulking your windows as a short-term fix, but replacing the seals or, in severe cases, the entire window may be necessary.

2. Condensation between the panes

Fogging or condensation trapped inside double glazing is an obvious indicator that your window seal has failed. This type of window condensation occurs when moisture seeps into the space between the panes, reducing the window’s insulating properties. While surface condensation can often be wiped away, internal condensation cannot. At this point, your double-glazing will likely need to be replaced.

3. Excessive outside noise

One of the biggest benefits of double glazing is acoustic insulation, so if outside noise seems louder than before, it could mean the insulating gas within the glazing has degraded and your windows aren’t insulating as well as before.

4. Visible damage to frames

"Warped, damaged, or swollen frames (especially in wooden windows) can lead to functionality issues," says Matt. If paired with draughts or condensation between the panes, it’s a strong sign that your windows need repair or replacement. "Cracks, chips, or yellowing (common in older uPVC windows) are also signs of ageing."

You can often restore timber window sills and frames with sanding, sealing, and a fresh coat of micro-porous paint or stain. However, if the wood is severely rotted or structurally compromised, it’s best to consult a specialist to assess whether repairs or full replacement are needed.

If you think it's time to replace your double-glazing, make sure you do your research. We've put together a helpful guide to new window costs, as well as a double glazing price guide.

If you love the layout of your kitchen, but want a refresh, then replacement kitchen unit door costs are a nailed-on consideration. Andy Simms of MyBuilder says, "Changing your doors can bring new life into your kitchen space, giving it a fresh updated look,” He adds, "Whilst also being cost-effective - and without having to remodel the whole room.”

While adding new doors can be a lesser part of designing a kitchen, they will still have a big impact on how your kitchen looks. A new colour on doors can instantly change the appearance of a space. And add in new decoration and you could have the feel of a new kitchen for less.

Why update kitchen unit doors?

Kitchen doors are the face of a kitchen, they are the visual elements that bring a kitchen to life. Their colour and style helps determine the sense of style and overall appeal of a kitchen.

Here are some reasons you should consider replacing them:

• Update your kitchen aesthetic
• Save money on a full kitchen refurb
• Less upheaval than a full renovation
• Refreshes your kitchen on a budget
• Get your home ready to put on the market
• Reduces the amount of waste that is generated by a full refurbishment

How much do replacement kitchen unit doors cost?

There is no definitive price for replacement kitchen doors as there are many different elements to factor in when buying them.

You can pick up off the shelf ready-to-fit kitchen doors at reasonable prices from several widely known hardware and home improvement retailers. B&Q stocks over 2,000 kitchen cupboard doors and related products. Prices start at under £20 per door, although higher-end options are available.

You can also get premium off-the-shelf doors from providers such as Moderne, Kitchen Door Workshop and Lark & Larks.

However, if you are looking for something more robust or bespoke like real wood doors you can easily be spending £100-£200 per door.

To help save money you can shop around for end of line deals, or go down the second hand kitchen route.

Try these kitchen doors to replace your old ones

6 factors that affect replacement kitchen doors cost

Defining the costs of replacement kitchen doors is not a simple, straightforward exercise. There are a host of factors that will determine the price you pay. These will include the following.

1. Door style

There are hundreds of different door styles to choose from, with shaker and slab style doors, like this WTC Dove Grey Gloss Vogue Lacquered Finish door from B&Q, being popular choices. Kitchen doors which are more decorative are typically more expensive than flat slab doors. The finish can also add to the cost, for example a door with real wood veneer is often more expensive than laminate or paint.

2. Size of the door

Kitchen cabinet doors come in a wide variety of sizes commonly ranging from a slim and svelte 150mm to a more robust 600mm. These are typically taller kitchen doors, so it makes sense that large doors contain more material and will affect the cost you can expect to pay.

When replacing kitchen unit doors, the new doors will need to fit the existing units. Take the time to measure each unit, as it’s possible that their material will have warped or twisted through ongoing exposure to moisture, heat or load.

Identify whether the hinges on your kitchen units are inset (the door sits flush inside the cabinet) or overlay (the door closes over the cabinet). This will affect the required dimensions of the new doors.

Aesthetically, new kitchen unit doors can be quite distinct from the old ones. For instance, you might replace a raised panel door with a shaker door or glass insert alternative.

3. Number of doors

The more doors you need, or want, will affect the overall price you’ll pay for replacement doors. A typical 8 cabinet kitchen, like this Ashmead Midnight Blue from B&Q, will have around 10-16 doors. So don’t forget this when looking at replacement doors.

4. Material

Cheaper kitchen doors are commonly made from MDF and painted or lacquered to keep cost down. Real wood veneer is more expensive while solid wood doors are the most expensive. But the cost will vary depending on the type of wood.

Clive Holland, DIY expert and presenter at Fix Radio says: “There are so many options available with the most po,pular refurbishment right now being wrapping [with adhesive vinyl].”

Even within these categories of kitchen unit door material, prices can vary greatly depending on type and quality, so it’s well worth shopping around.

Holland is a strong advocate of vinyl-wrapping, rather than fully replacing, kitchen doors. “The vinyls come in various finishes such as high gloss, matte wood effect, patterned textured carbon fibre, metallic pearlescent and glitter, and the choice of colours is huge,” he says.

“The average basic cost of vinyl wrapping, say, 12 doors and 3 door fronts would be around £1,600, and that gets you a durable, versatile material that keeps out moisture, is easy to clean, never needs repainting, and is scratch and chip-resistant.”

5. Additional fittings

Handles and hinges are often forgotten when purchasing replacement doors. Cost will vary depending on quality and whether they are soft close or not. You can buy a 10 pack like these Amerdeco Full Overlay Soft Close Cabinet Hinges from Amazon for around £20.

Handles will also vary in price, depending on quality and style. At the lower end of the scale expect to pay around £3-£6 a handle.

6. Labour costs

You can forget about labour costs if you DIY it, check out our replacing kitchen doors - a DIY guide if you want to do it. But, it's not a job for every DIYer and Simms suggests hiring a pro “For the best results, it’s always recommended to hire a reliable tradesperson. While handymen can often do the job at a lower cost, the finish might not be as good compared to an expert carpenter, joiner or specialist kitchen fitter.”

He adds, “The challenge with fitting new doors yourself is measuring, aligning the hinges and handling the doors. So while hiring an expert comes at a higher price than DIY, their skill and attention to detail will ensure the perfect kitchen door fit.”

The average cost of having kitchen doors replaced by a joiner is around £131.10 per door.

Where to buy kitchen cabinet doors

A hardware store like B&Q is an obvious choice, but there are still plenty of other places you can find what you need. Check your local area for specialist kitchen suppliers, you might be able to get a better deal on new replacement doors.

Look online for out of the area suppliers, but remember to check any delivery charges. Alternatively, if you are happy to look for used replacement doors – you’ll typically get a better quality door for less – try Facebook Marketplace or Gumtree.

FAQs

How long does it take to fit kitchen doors?

This will depend if it's a straight like–for–like replacement using the current hinges and hardware. Or, if you are adding new hinges and handles, the size of the door and skill level. If it’s a straightforward swap then a pro will get it done in 10-15 minutes per door. It may take a DIYer a little longer.

If you need to remove the old doors and hinges, replace the hinges, handles and drill new holes, each door will typically take around 20-30 minutes.

Is it better to paint or replace kitchen doors?

This is a subjective decision, but if your doors are looking tatty and tired and the laminate or current finish is starting to lift off the wood core of the doors then it's a good idea to replace them.

If your current kitchen doors are still in good condition, but the colour has faded or the door is scratched, you should consider painting. Check out our painting kitchen cabinets guide to get a great finish.

When replacing kitchen doors you might want to think about handleless kitchens and the benefits they bring. Alternatively, it might be a good time to find out How much does a new kitchen cost to weigh up the difference in price. If short on funds then check out our Cheap Kitchens: How to Create Your Dream Kitchen on a Budget guide.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

There are all sorts of unusual methods for clearing condensation – from smearing the glass with washing-up liquid to putting salt on your windowsill. But do any of them actually work?

Having suffered from window condensation for years, we wanted to see if any of these methods were effective – and whether they could replace our trusty dehumidifiers or not.

With our myth-busting hats on, we decided to try five popular methods on our windows: using salt, rice, washing-up liquid, and vinegar, as well as moving plants away from the glass. To find out what we discovered – and if any of them really worked – keep reading.

1. Washing-up liquid

One of the most common myths is that washing-up liquid can stop condensation on windows.

How it is claimed to work: This apparently forms a barrier on windows that prevents the water from sticking. I gave this a try by applying a generous dollop of Fairy Liquid to my windows for two consecutive nights and leaving it for a couple of days.

Verdict: Disappointingly, this had no impact on the condensation levels, with water still forming on the edges of the window panes. On a positive note, it did at least gave my windows a nice clean and made them smell fresh.

2. Vinegar

Another myth that was tested was vinegar.

How it is claimed to work: Vinegar is thought to help reduce condensation due to its mild acidity, which can supposedly dissolve minerals and salts that contribute to moisture build-up. This potentially improves the glass’s ability to regulate temperature and normal humidity. Some also believe that vinegar can absorb moisture from the air, further reducing condensation on the window surface.

Verdict: To my surprise, the level of condensation appeared to decrease in some areas and it removed some excess water from the windows. However, it didn't eliminate the condensation entirely – only reduced it slightly. And when it came to the part of the window behind the curtain, the level of water build-up was actually increased (as seen in the third picture above).

3. Moving plants

Another theory is that moving plants away from your window could reduce (or even stop) condensation on windows altogether.

How it is claimed to work: Plants release moisture into the air, which can accumulate on cold glass surfaces if the plants are near a window.

Verdict: One of the bedrooms is used as an additional garden room, containing a wide variety of indoor plants, including spider plants, yuccas, alocasias, and mother-in-law’s tongue. I moved all of them outside the bedroom to observe the impact over 24 hours. However, I still woke up to condensation on the windows, with no noticeable change – the condensation remained clearly visible.

Bear in mind that some plants can help absorb water, so be sure to check before removing them from your room.

4. Rice

Some people say that if you put rice on your window sill, it will reduce and prevent any condensation.

How it is claimed to work: Since rice is hygroscopic (a.k.a. a material that absorbs moisture from the air), it’s said to help with window condensation. Simply fill a bowl or a breathable bag with rice, and put it underneath the glass.

Verdict: I placed a cup of rice on my kitchen's window ledge and the condensation had cleared within four minutes and 58 seconds (around 10 minutes faster than when I tested it without rice). I noticed that the rice had gained 32g in weight, which clearly shows it absorbed some moisture. I also experimented with using it as a preventative measure, but it didn't completely stop the condensation from forming.

While I wouldn’t recommend completely ditching your dehumidifier for this hack, it could be a handy solution for small-scale condensation – especially since it costs around 52p!

5. Salt

For the final test, I checked whether rice could help reduce condensation on my windows.

How it is claimed to work: Like rice, salt is a hygroscopic material, so some people claim that it can absorb excess moisture in the air, which leads to condensation.

Verdict: I put a cup of salt on the same window as before to see how long it would take to clear my steamy glass. The result was 12 minutes and three seconds – only about three minutes faster than without it. While it did make a slight difference, it’s probably not enough for me to do this regularly.

Final verdict

We found limited success when testing five popular condensation hacks.

While the rice significantly sped up the time it took for my condensation to clear, and the vinegar showed some improvement in moisture levels, the other methods had no noticeable impact.

These results suggest that tackling condensation may require more robust solutions, such as improving ventilation, installing an extractor fan, or investing in a dehumidifier.

Chris Michael, CEO of Meaco, confirms: [Condensation hacks] are as useful as a chocolate teapot! They are limited solutions and have little to any effect. They cannot meaningfully reduce condensation or humidity in a home where ventilation or a dehumidifier is required."

Shop our favourite dehumidifiers

While the results of this experiment were a little disappointing, it might be worth trying the rice hack at home – considering it had some effect and is so cheap to buy.

However, if you're looking for a long-term solution that tackles excess moisture completely, we've tested the best dehumidifiers on the market to help you choose the right model. Alternatively, if you're not sure where to begin or which type of device is best suited to your home, it's worth learning the difference between desiccant vs compressor dehumidifiers.

Korniche proudly presents an innovative addition to its portfolio – the Cortizo 4700 sliding door.

Enhanced with Korniche’s award-winning technologies, the Cortizo 4700 is set to redefine homebuilding expectations.

Discover the pinnacle of sliding door design

Korniche’s mission is to turn your architectural vision into reality by combining inspiring and innovative design and engineering excellence.

The Cortizo 4700 sliding door has long been celebrated for its sleek design, minimal sightlines, and superior performance. However, the integration of Korniche SpeedBead technology ensures Cortizo, the leading manufacturer of aluminium and PVC systems, achieves new heights of refinement and precision.

Korniche’s patented SpeedBead technology, renowned for its efficiency in our bi-folding doors, is now a cornerstone of the Cortizo 4700.

Why Choose the Cortizo 4700 from Korniche?

This unique alliance of proven reliability and cutting-edge design from two of the industry’s finest brands demonstrates how to deliver a hybrid product that enhances aesthetics and installation.

Korniche has refined the Cortizo 4700 sliding patio door to create slimmer sightlines, add PAS 24 advanced security features, and provide many sleek hardware options.

Distinguished features that will enhance your home

• Elegant sightlines: The Cortizo 4700’s clean, modern lines maximise your view and allow plenty of natural light into your home, while the slim interlocking system and precision running gear maintain the door’s structural integrity.
• Superb thermal efficiency: The advanced polyamide thermal breaks and bespoke seals keep your home warm and secure during the most challenging winter months.
• PAS 24 enhanced security: Our in-house locking shoot-bolt handles provide a robust security system that gives you peace of mind.
• SpeedBead installation: The efficient SpeedBead system gives you quick and precise glazing with reduced installation time.
• 10-year warranty: Feel secure in your investment.

Tailored to taste

The Cortizo 4700 and Korniche partnership provides an extensive range of customisation options to suit your preferences and complement your home’s unique style. From a wide selection of more than 150 colour finishes, including the distinguished tones of Anthracite Grey and the quietly classic

Gloss White, to any number of configurations on double or triple tracks, our slimline sliding doors have been engineered with ingenuity in mind to harmonise seamlessly with your interior and exterior designs.

Glass and delivery

Korniche resellers will arrange the delivery of UK-made pre-assembled door sets and glass in a single drop-off. Double and triple-glazed options are available.

A collaboration of excellence

The sliding door system exceeds UK trade standards by combining Cortizo’s established design with Korniche’s advanced technology.

Are you ready to transform your space this autumn?

The Cortizo 4700 sliding door is poised to set a new benchmark in the industry. Contact the Made for Trade sales team for free tickets and see the Cortizo 4700 in action at our Homebuilding and Renovation Shows in Harrogate this November.

Visit our website to discover more about how innovative design can bring each homeowner's vision to life or come and see us at the Homebuilding and Renovating Show at the Harrogate Convention Centre from November 1-3, 2024.

You can also check out our Facebook page, Instagram, Linkedin, Pinterest, Twitter, Vimeo, and YouTube channel.

If you've ever heard of the term 'house burping' you could be mistaken for thinking it might be related to your bathrooms or kitchens, and the noises that sometimes emanate from our drainage systems, when sinks and drains gurgle after use.

The good news is that house burping is actually a lot less noisy and, unlike human burping, you won't need to apologise for it happening. Intrigued?

Read on to find out more about the trend of house burping and how it plays a part in your home ventilation.

What is house burping?

"House burping is the process of opening the windows in your home for short bursts, usually for around 10 minutes at a time," explains Helen O’Connor, product manager at 247 Blinds.

“There are many European countries known for their practice of airing out the home, but the idea of house burping came from a particular tradition in Germany. ‘Stoßlüften’ which translates to ‘shock ventilation’ in English, is the act of opening windows for short periods of time, even during the cold winter months, in order to circulate fresh air into the home and prevent mould.

“We know this time of the year is usually when people start to worry about mould in a house and damp , particularly how it can start affecting window sills, walls and window dressings," says Helen. "To replicate the German practice of ‘shock ventilation’ the phrase ‘house burping’ was coined as it helps to summarise the tip in a way that is easy to understand and is easy for people to remember - the word ‘burping’ in itself is a bit tongue in cheek, that just means it’s much more likely to stick in your head and it’s a great visualisation.

What are the benefits?

"Burping your home basically encourages the circulation of fresh air and prevents condensation" explains Helen O'Connor. "No window is exempt from condensation, especially in the winter months when we experience a lot of cold weather," she adds.

"So, if you’re not letting your home burp," warns Helen, "you are cultivating an environment for mould to grow." This could mean you end up with not only visible signs of mould, but also hidden mould hotspots that can take longer to find and resolve.

Which rooms should you burp the most?

Although every room in your home can benefit from house burping, some rooms are naturally more prone to moisture than others, but that doesn't make other rooms exempt from the daily task.

"Cooking, showering and drying laundry indoors all create humidity during the winter months," explains Phil Wood, UK country manager at Contura. "This is bad news for allergy sufferers and makes us more susceptible to airborne winter illnesses such as coughs, colds and flu. This can affect every room in your home, so ensure your whole home is well ventilated and ensure good air circulation daily."

“Single-glazed or draughty windows are also a key problem area for mould and mildew growth," adds Helen O'Connor, meaning if you live in a listed building for example and double glazing isn't permitted, you may find window condensation a re-occurring problem.

And, while it can be easy to assume having draughty windows means you don't need to house burp with air already flowing through your home, I can speak from experience and tell you that you still need to do it.

I have single glazed sash windows and still regularly undertake house burping. It's one of the most effective ways of improving my home's health and it always makes the house feel cleaner and fresher immediately.

"I'm a big fan of having our windows open for periods of time, even on really cold days in the middle of winter," says Beth Murton, editor of Homebuilding & Renovating.

"My bedroom windows are always open overnight, whatever the weather, as I find the fresh air guarantees a more comfortable sleeping environment. In the morning before the heating goes on, the bathroom windows are also opened to encourage natural cross ventilation upstairs and help remove stale air from the bedrooms and moisture from the bathroom.

"I might only have several windows open at the same time for 15-20 minutes in winter," says Beth, "but I find it makes the house feel fresher. I also have a dehumidifier to keep on top of any excess moisture in the house, which can often be caused by drying laundry indoors at this time of year."

What else can you combine with house burping?

However, while house burping is one way of tackling the issue, it's also important to understand how to stop window condensation. Using additional methods can help prevent it from returning and you'll usually need to take a multi-layered approach to the problem.

Buying the best dehumidifier for example, can be another way of tackling excess moisture, providing extra back up for when it's simply too cold to leave your windows open for extended periods of time.

Likewise, trying out the best window vacs, such as this Karcher WV 5 Plus Window Vacuum Cleaner in White, that's currently reduced by £30 at Currys, can help remove moisture immediately and give your house burping an extra boost.

Other tried and tested methods include making sure you have the best bathroom extractor fans working hard behind the scenes to help alleviate the issue, as well as taking steps to extract moisture from your kitchen.

And of course, with vast quantities of water droplets expelled in bedrooms each night as we sleep, we should all be keen to know how to prevent mould in bedrooms.

As the saying goes, 'it's better out than in'. Letting the moisture and humidity out on a regular basis makes for a far more comfortable environment, and prevents more serious problems from developing in the future.

Shop for dehumidifiers

Don't make these mistakes with windows and house burping

As well as opening our windows, dressing them with the wrong coverings can also exacerbate issues with moisture, so it's essential we use the right coverings to reduce the risk of mould and damp, says Helen O'Connor.

“Limit the places where mould can thrive by opting for anti-fungal roller blinds, which are specially coated to resist mould as well as other common bacteria," she says. “Alternatively, faux wooden blinds are water, warp and crack-resistant, meaning frequent cleaning won’t damage them.

"Fitting blinds further forward of the window pane also ensures that moisture won’t become trapped between the glass and the fabric,” she adds.

However, for the full effect of house burping don't assume that just because you have the right covering, you can leave it in situ.

Steven Dempsey, interior stylist expert at Shutterly Fabulous, explains this is a mistake that could make your condensation worse.

“Make sure to open your shutters and blinds fully during your daily house burp. If they stay closed, cold air can become trapped between the window and the blind, increasing the risk of condensation. Opening both the window and the blinds allows proper airflow and helps reduce moisture buildup around the glass.

“When done correctly, this burst of ventilation pushes out the stale indoor air and replaces it with fresh outdoor air, helping to reduce pollutants and allergens. It also naturally removes lingering odours," he adds, "leaving your home feeling cleaner and smelling fresher – without relying on fragranced products.”

How often should you house burp?

Although the recommended time for house burping is 10 minutes, it's worth weighing up the implications of opening your windows.

“Effective ventilation should be done in short bursts," recommends Helen O'Conner. "Anything too long can start to cause problems, such as heat loss – which makes the home less energy efficient, in turn increasing the cost of bills – and moisture problems.”

While summer is less of an issue (although particularly humid days could be best avoided), opening windows on rainy days will only serve to add more moisture into your home, as it equally will on dew laden mornings. And if you live in a city location, you could be letting unnecessary pollution circulate around your home.

As with any other method of removing moisture from your home, it's always better to make sure you tackle the root of the problem first and use preventative measures wisely.

While we don't suggest for one minute that you now insist on using this term every time you open your windows, or even pat yourself on the back for doing so, it should serve as a reminder that letting fresh air circulate around your home is the best form of natural ventilation you can adopt. And of course, it's also free.

However, if it's also made you sit back and think a little more about how you could improve your home ventilation in general, follow our guides to bathroom ventilation and loft ventilation to help ensure your home is functioning well.

Whether you are upgrading an existing patio setup or preparing for a full home renovation, choosing the right doors can completely change how you experience and enjoy your space.

Beyond improving your view, modern sliding doors can create a sense of openness, boost security, and significantly reduce energy loss. With practical advancements in materials and design, now could be the perfect time to consider upgrading to a more efficient and secure sliding door system.

Here are five reasons why making the switch could be a smart move for your home.

1. Slim frames offer better views

Modern sliding doors are designed with slimmer frames, allowing for larger expanses of glass that maximise natural light and provide uninterrupted views of your garden or outdoor areas. This seamless transition between indoor and outdoor spaces helps blur the boundaries, making your home feel more spacious and open.

Whether you're adding a contemporary extension or updating an older property, ultra-slim sliding doors like the Korniche-enhanced Cortizo 4700 offer the perfect blend of style and durability. These sleek frames are engineered to complement both modern and traditional homes, all while maintaining strength and long-lasting performance.

2. They help you stay comfortable year-round

Upgrading your sliding patio doors can also help improve your home’s energy efficiency. Many modern systems now come with advanced thermal technology, which prevents heat from escaping in the winter and keeps your home cooler during the summer months. This not only makes your living space more comfortable year-round but can also lead to noticeable savings on your energy bills.

The Cortizo 4700, for instance, uses polyamide thermal breaks and high-quality seals to reduce heat loss. Available with both double and triple glazing, this system is designed to improve insulation and cut down on energy consumption.

3. They have built-in security for peace of mind

Security is an important factor when selecting the right doors for your home. Modern systems often come with advanced locking mechanisms to provide robust protection and give you peace of mind. High-quality materials and secure locks can also help deter potential intruders, making your home feel safer without compromising on design.

The Cortizo 4700 integrates the latest PAS 24 security features, including lockable shoot bolts and secure handles. These built-in safety measures ensure your home stays secure without having to sacrifice style.

4. You can tailor them to your home aesthetic

Choosing new patio doors offers an opportunity to tailor them to your personal taste and the design of your home. With a wide range of materials, colours, and configurations available, it’s easy to find a system that complements your style, whether you prefer a traditional look or a more contemporary aesthetic.

For example, the Korniche-enhanced Cortizo 4700 comes in over 150 different colour finishes, including modern Anthracite Grey and classic Gloss White. Plus, with options for double or triple track configurations, you can customise the doors to suit the layout and functionality of any space.

5. They take the hassle out of installation

For those concerned about lengthy or complex installations, modern sliding doors are built for convenience. Pre-assembled systems ensure the doors arrive ready to fit, reducing on-site adjustments and installation time. Innovations like Korniche’s SpeedBead technology further streamline the process, allowing for fast, precise glazing and a hassle-free experience. With these advancements, you can have your new doors installed quickly, minimising disruption and letting you enjoy your upgraded space sooner.

If you want to flood your home with light, boost security, and save on energy bills, the Korniche-enhanced Cortizo 4700 sliding door is the way to go.

With delivery available this October, now’s the perfect time to make the switch. Find out more at the Korniche website.

Now you see them, now you don't. Pocket doors are the perfect solution for saving space. And they can seamlessly integrate into your carefully constructed interior design plans. Unlike traditional doors that swing and are always seen, pocket doors will neatly slide into the wall and be happily hidden away out of sight. Until you decide you want to call them back into action to provide a stylish and neat room closure.

This makes ECLISSE Pocket Doors an excellent option for smaller rooms with limited space, narrow hallways, bathrooms or even a smart, space-saving entrance to a closet. But it's not just small spaces that can benefit from a set of pocket doors. They are ideal as clever room dividers, you can shut away a space, before sliding the doors open to unveil a whole new room. And when you want to revert back to a more cosy space, you simply slide them shut and sit back and relax. 

The benefits of ECLISSE Pocket Doors 

Introducing a pocket door system into your home is definitely a sensible solution. Here we give you a quick and concise run-down of the benefits they can bring.  

• Space-saver - This is the key feature of a pocket door. They slide into a wall cavity which eliminates the swing space that traditional doors occupy. Ideal for small spaces or freeing up space for furniture.
• Aesthetic appeal - Pocket doors are the perfect addition for a sleek, clean contemporary - and hinge-free - design aesthetic. Colour match with the surrounding decor to create a seamless design style.
• Options: ECLISSE Pocket Doors are more than just the classic single door for smaller spaces. Need to create a little privacy in open plan areas, try a double pocket door.
• Enhanced accessibility: Easy to open doors mean you can walk straight through, giving easy access to those with mobility issues and wheelchair users.
• Do it yourself - Save on installation costs and install the ECLISSE Pocket Doors yourself with some everyday tools that self builders and home renovators will already have in their collection.
• Peace of mind - The ECLISSE Pocket Door System comes with a fantastic 15-year guarantee, giving you reassurance that you have a quality product that will last for years to come.

What do ECLISSE Pocket Doors have to offer? 

ECLISSE don’t just have one pocket door system in their product range. You can choose different options for different spaces and throw in some optional extras if you want. Here we look at some of the options you can choose from. 

• The Classic single pocket door
  The perfect space-saving alternative to traditional hinged doors. Ideal for a whole range of spaces including utility rooms, bathrooms, en-suites, pantries, walk-in wardrobes. Just add your own door and architrave for a perfectly finished pocket door.
• The Classic double pocket door
  Transform the layout of a room from open-plan to cosy and warm with one swift movement of a double door. Introduce multi-functional room use and open up more space.
• Single telescopic pocket door
  Try something slightly different with this system. Two doors that slide into one pocket to allow you to optimise your interior space.
• Fire rated FD30 system
  Introduce peace of mind and added safety thanks to the certified and independently fire tested system. This includes the standard ECLISSE Classic Pocket Door System and specialised jamb kit with incorporated architrave made from a high-density slow burning hardwood.
• Don’t forget the optional extras
  Enhance the ECLISSE Pocket Door experience. Say goodbye to slamming with their BIAS Soft-close with Anti-Slam accessory that adds a gentle and quiet closure to any door. Or, how about the ECLISSE Self Closing System for pocket doors. You don’t even need to close a door, completely enclosed inside the system, this feature does the hard work for you.

Stay in touch with the latest ECLISSE Pocket Doors news 

If you are loving the look of the ECLISSE Pocket Door Systems and want to keep-up-date with what’s happening in their world. Then make sure that you check out their socials to get the latest news, product information, updates and informational videos. Or contact via phone or email them at info@eclisse.co.uk.

Facebook - EclisseUK - https://www.facebook.com/EclisseUK
Instagram - @eclisse_uk_ltd - https://www.instagram.com/eclisse_uk_ltd/ 

A council has rejected consent for new windows that were installed on a historic house as the "joinery details" didn't match.

Alastair Gourlay, who replaced the windows at the B listed Duchlage Farmhouse due to rot, claims he was unaware that planning permission or listed building consent was required. As a result, he had to submit a retrospective application.

However, the application was rejected by the council, despite Mr Gourlay claiming the "difference is negligible" between the old and new windows. He has now decided to appeal the decision to the Scottish Government.

Historic windows replaced with 'like for like for replacements'

Mr Gourlay replaced the old timber-framed, single-glazed sash windows, which were "rotting and draughty", with new windows that he claims "match the style, material and colour of the previous windows".

He said in his listed building application that he aimed to preserve the character of the home "by installing new windows which are up to current standards and as close to as possible like for like for replacements".

The only change made was the addition of plant on astragals, the decorative white strips applied to the surface of the window panes to give the appearance of multi-pane windows, whereas previously the panes used structural astragals, which physically separated the panes.

Mr Gourlay said this was done to make the windows "as thermally efficient as possible" by reducing the number of cold bridges, which are formed by a structural astragal, whilst also mimicking the look of older, traditional sash windows.

Why was consent required to replace the windows?

Although replacing windows is not normally required as the house was a B listed home (equivalent to a Grade II listed home in England and Wales) and as the house is in a conservation area listed building consent was required.

Mr Gourlay was not aware consent was required to carry out the work when he replaced the windows in March last year.

However, he became aware after a complaint was made by a local resident and subsequent enforcement action was taken against him, forcing him to submit a retrospective application.

'Loss of structural astragals' blamed for rejected application

This application was rejected by Perth & Kinross Council after they ruled the new windows failed to "replace the historic windows with matching joinery details".

The council said the work was contrary to Sections 14 and 59 of the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) Act 1997 as the work failed to "preserve the subject listed building's character".

The council specifically mentioned the "loss of structural astragals" and that the "non-structural astragal detailing is inappropriate to the listed building's window character".

It was also said that "proposed repair works" were "not fully investigated where a repair 'potential' had been identified".

Appeal submitted to the Planning and Environmental Appeals Division

An appeal has now been submitted to the Scottish Government against the council's decision to reject the application.

In the appeal it said Mr Gourlay and his wife have “received nothing but compliments on the windows from people who have commented to them personally" and it is "only the planning authority who have taken exception to the replacement windows”.

He again argues that "the difference is negligible visually when the windows are inspected on site" and the new windows "do not alter the appearance of the house to a lay person from the restricted views of the house".

The appeal will be dealt with by the Planning and Environmental Appeals Division (DPEA) where a planning reporter will decide the outcome.

For the vast majority of windows and doors, whether they be uPVC, timber or aluminium, the single, double or triple glazed unit is held in place by a glazing bead. This bead clips or attaches to the frame around the edge to secure the glass and prevent it from falling out.

To achieve sliding doors with slimmer frames, a number of manufacturers have opted to bond or glue the glass to the frame to hold it in place and to give the panels the necessary rigidity. These ‘structurally bonded’ systems have the glass glued to the door frame all round with a permanent adhesive so the door and glass becomes one item – meaning the glass is no longer a serviceable item without replacing the whole door panel itself.

How do I know if I am buying a structurally bonded sliding door? 

Ask your door supplier directly. Not many companies will offer this information upfront or go through the extra risks — indeed some have even sold the fact that the glass is bonded to the frame as an advantage. Using the strength of the glass, a structurally bonded door can be very slim, usually providing a slim look all round.

What are the risks with this design? 

If there is an accident with the glass on a structurally bonded door, you’ll need to replace not just the glass but also the whole sliding door panel. Needing to replace the whole panel means liaising with the company who installed the door, because you can’t get just any door or window company to replace the glass. Terms of warranties for glass breakages will vary, as will the cost of replacing the panel, and you can’t always assume that it will be covered under warranty.

Can I guarantee availability? 

If you need to replace or upgrade the glass in the future, for whatever reason, you are reliant on ordering it through your original door suppliers, who are reliant on ordering it from the same manufacturers, who in turn are reliant on ordering it from the same profile supplier. If one of these parties are no longer trading or the system you bought goes out of production, sourcing a replacement panel could be very difficult – meaning you may need to buy a new set of doors, at the risk of also needing new plasterwork, render and flooring.

What are the alternatives? 

Instead of structurally bonded sliding doors, consider ‘dry glazed’ or ‘semi-dry glazed’ sliding doors. These allow the glass to be replaced in the future without having to replace the whole door panel – just as you would with any other window or door in your house. A semi-dry glazed sliding door, like the Sunflex UK SVG20, offers the best of both worlds – a predominantly slim system with the benefit of being serviceable in the future.

For more information about the risks of choosing a bonded sliding door system speak to one of the Sunflex UK technical team on 01603 424434. Alternatively, email info@ sunflexuk.co.uk or visit www.sunflexuk.co.uk

LG has launched the first two-door fridge-freezer in the UK to feature its unique InstaView technology. 

Previously only available on larger models, the new space-efficient version includes a InstaView door on the top half of the unit that lets you see what's inside the fridge. It also features the company's colour-changing MoodUP technology that illuminates the food inside - and allows you to change the ambiance outside.

We take a look at the specs to see if it could be a good option when choosing your kitchen appliances.

LG’s first two-door InstaView fridge freezer activated by knocking

The InstaView glass panel on the top half of the appliance is activated with two knocks to the surface. The door then lights up inside allowing you to see the contents without having to open it, thus reducing cold air loss and improving energy efficiency.

Lyu Jae-cheol, president of LG Electronics Home Appliance & Air Solution Company said: “Driven by our commitment to innovation and making people’s lives better, we will continue to deliver differentiated kitchen experiences and a smarter, more comfortable home.”

Transform your kitchen atmosphere with MoodUP

The LG InstaView bottom freezer with MoodUP also allows users to change the kitchen's ambience by altering the colour of the freezer’s LED door panel. A far easier way to deal with any changes you may choose to make to your kitchen colour scheme in the future.

Users can choose from 438 colour combinations for both the freezer door and InstaView lighting, manageable through the ThinQ app. It also includes preset colour themes for various moods, such as lively gatherings or relaxing evenings. 

Or, for a more subtle look, users can switch off the LED lighting to reveal a Lux White finish.

In addition to its lighting features, the fridge-freezer has a built-in Bluetooth speaker that can play music from streaming apps or the Music Collection on the ThinQ app. The Party Mode feature syncs the MoodUP panel’s colours with the music should you fancy a kitchen disco. 

LG's InstaView models

Smaller fridge offers a more 'space-efficient' model

The new LG InstaView fridge-freezer is also ideal for homeowners looking to save space in their kitchens.

Previous four-door models of the LG InstaView freezer are considerably larger than the new two-door model, meaning those searching for small kitchen ideas may previously have struggled to take advantage of the technology.

As there is also no loss in performance compared to larger models, homeowners are not missing out by getting the latest two-door version, other than losing some shelf space.

Smart features tailored to your lifestyle

Additionally, the fridge-freezer includes features like the Door Open Alert, which makes the MoodUP panel blink when a door is left open, and the Nighttime Mood Light, which glows when someone approaches. 

The fridge’s 4.3-inch Cover Screen LCD touch display also lets users manage settings, display the time, or use the ThinQ Diary to leave messages. And, if you're keen to keep your food as fresh as possible, the app allows users to set optimal temperatures or choose Vacation+ for custom settings when away.

Powered by LG’s Smart Inverter Compressor, the InstaView bottom freezer offers energy efficiency with a 10-year warranty, and the LINEARCooling technology reduces temperature fluctuations, keeping food fresh for longer and resulting in up to 32% lower energy consumption. 

However, as glass is a poor insulator, cold air may escape throughout the day, which could mean the compressor will have to work harder to maintain the right temperature.

Where to buy the LG InstaView fridge-freezer?

You can buy the new LG InstaView fridge-freezer directly from LG's website with prices ranging from £1,199.99 to £3,700, but a full range of LG appliances can also be bought from other retailers such as Currys, Amazon and AO.com.

You may have seen or had phone calls regarding the Window Scrappage Scheme and wondered whether you should use it.

The scheme offers to save you money by replacing your old windows with new double and triple-glazed windows.

However, we reveal why this is not the case and why you should proceed with caution if you are considering using this 'scheme'.

What is the Window Scrappage Scheme?

The Window Scrappage Scheme is a promotion run by double and triple-glazing providers that offers to scrap your old uPVC window frames and replace them with new eco-friendly windows.

Companies claim the decision could save you money, potentially in the thousands, and many also say the frames will be recycled.

However, the window scrappage scheme is not government-backed, despite what many have been led to believe. It is in fact, a company-led scheme.

Who offers the Window Scrappage Scheme?

Anglian Home Improvements, KLIC Home Improvements and many other national window providers run their own versions of the Window Scrappage Scheme.

The prices and services offered vary between providers, but all claim to recycle the old window frames and save at least £1,000 by taking up the offer.

Anglian Home Improvements say on their website: "The Anglian Scrappage Scheme helps you to recycle your old windows and doors in return for average savings of £1,000† off new ones professionally installed by us."

Meanwhile, KLIC Home Improvements goes one further by offering a 'Window & Door Recycling Scrappage Scheme', which they claim it could offer a saving "up to £2500 on the cost of their new windows and doors" when replacing old ones.

Should you take up the Window Scrappage Scheme?

As the Window Scrappage Scheme is not a government-regulated scheme what is offered can sometimes be misleading.

The claim that you will save potentially thousands is dubious as despite double or triple glazing saving money on your energy bills companies could be charging you more than you should be paying.

Also, there is no reason why you cannot fit your own glazing and recycle your window yourself as almost all uPVC windows can be recycled at your local recycling centre, although this would require you to remove your window frame yourself.

However, if you want to avoid this hassle you can go to providers, but proceed with caution if they mention they are providing you a saving through the Window Scrappage Scheme.

Homebuilding & Renovating has approached Anglian Home Improvements KLIC Home Improvements for comment.

CONTENT SUPPLIED BY MADE FOR TRADE

Glazing is a big consideration for any build project and bifold doors are no exception. They’ll take a bite out of your budget so you’ll want to pick a design and style that’s going to flood your space with natural light, look good and be secure. With so many options on the market here are four reasons to choose aluminium bifold doors.   

1. Slim Frames for Uninterrupted Views

Aluminium bifold doors are lightweight but strong. The frame profiles are slim so sight-lines are uncluttered which means more glazing so more light in and better views out. The slim profiles make them a great choice for a contemporary project or they can add a modern twist to a more traditional build.

2. It’s a Low-maintenance Option

The aluminium bifold frames are powder coated so there’s very little maintenance needed once they’re installed. Just a bit of oil to keep the hinges and track working nicely over time. Aluminium doesn’t rust or warp so it won’t discolour either.

3. It’s a Strong and Secure Composition

Although the frames are slim this doesn’t make them weak. Because aluminium is so strong, the bifold door frames can hold large panes of glass without this effecting their strength.

When it comes to security, for peace of mind look for aluminium bifold doors that comply with the PAS24 standard, which tests (and passes) the enhanced security performance of doors. Manufacturers will also specify the safety credentials of the aluminium bifold door’s locks, catches and hinges, too.

4. You Can Create a Design to Suit Your Build

When it comes to installing the windows and doors of your self-build, extension or renovation, then consistency of materials used can help to create a uniform aesthetic both inside and out. Aluminium as a material can be used for structural glazing, rooflights, window frames and bifold doors so you can choose the same composition for all your glazing.

And to help create a design that suits, aluminium frames are available in an array of RAL colours so you can match your aluminium bifold doors with your window frames or rooflights or pick something to complement your build materials. Alternatively, you can pick a colour that makes a bold design statement externally while keeping it white and simple on the inside.

Contact the technical experts at Korniche who will be able to advise you on the right configuration of aluminium bifold doors for your project. Call them on 01642 610799, email help@madefortrade.co.uk.

Garden sunshade ideas are more key to having a useable outdoor space than you might think. As a particularly sun-sensitive individual, I have always found myself drawn to shaded spots outdoors. But I'm finding that even sun-lovers see the benefits of cool areas of the garden, particularly when we see temperatures regularly reaching 30 degrees in the UK.

When it comes to sunshade options - for your garden landscaping the choice is pretty vast, whether you're looking for something permanent or a moveable option. Many fixed and unfixed versions can be adjusted based on the level of shade needed, whether with smart tech or by manually adjusting posts.

The price range is also immense, with some garden structures costing tens of thousands of pounds, whilst parasols and shade sales can be picked up for less than £50. Then there are natural options like screening and climbing plants, which create lush green canopies.

Garden sunshade ideas for sitting outdoors in comfort this summer

Don't just put up a structure anywhere in your garden. It needs to be carefully thought out in terms of what areas of your garden need sun protection. Large structures like pergolas and gazebos can be imposing in a small garden and may block more light than needed. They can also obstruct views too. Therefore something smaller like a shade sail or awning could be a better choice.

Larger gardens can be ideal for large louvred structures and help make your outdoor space still more useable. Garden sunshade ideas which are attached to the house, could be factored into an extension or build project, so speak with your contractor or architect about potential options early on.

1. Plant trees for natural shade

"Using trees to shade your outdoor living space is a natural and sustainable approach," suggests Andrew White, Outdoor Expert at Harbour Lifestyle.

"As their canopies grow, you’ll enjoy more and more shade over the years. Plant trees strategically around your outdoor area, taking into account the sun's path and your desired shade coverage."

Trees help make great covered outdoor areas for pools or dining spots. Always think carefully before removing a tree from your garden and work around them instead. Consider building a patio area under a tree rather than putting up a pergola in a sunny area, and save yourself the cost.

"You’ll not only enjoy the added shade you’ll also support your local wildlife and enhance your yard with natural beauty," adds Andrew.

2. Hang up a sail canopy

"If you’re on the hunt for an alternative garden sunshade for your patio cover ideas, consider a sail canopy. Also called shade sails, sail canopies are large fabric canopies that are secured above your space at several anchor points and stretched taut to shield the area below from the sun," says Andrew White.

"They are usually quite easy to install, though you’ll need to consider the angle of the sun and the size of the space you need to shade. You can place the anchor points on poles, the sides of your home, and tall garden fences."

While not the most long-lasting option, Andrew feels a sail canopy is a quick way to refresh and shade your garden. "Place above a garden sofa set and you’ve got your own secluded space to relax."

Shop shade sails online

3. Use a retractable awning for shelter

"Awnings come in various styles and designs, so you can customise them to your design preferences. Plus, many awnings are adjustable, so you can open and close them depending on the weather," says Andrew White.

They not only keep your house cool and protect from shade but awnings can keep off light showers, extending the enjoyment of your outdoor areas even more. Attaching them to the back of your house serves to extend your indoor/outdoor living area. Retractable versions are preferable as solid awnings can block sunlight from reaching your interior.

"Retractable awnings are available in manual settings (less expensive option) and fully motorised (more expensive models)," says Joe Rutter.

4. Invest in a parasol for moveable shade

"A parasol is the perfect temporary shade option that can be placed near a seating area in your garden to offer respite on a long summer's day. Parasols are very versatile as they can be moved to different areas of your garden to offer shade as the sun moves throughout the day," says garden design expert Tom Clifford.

"Parasols can also be used as a temporary shade cover for plants as well, if you have a flower bed that is placed in full sunlight it may be beneficial to cover this area during the midday heat to avoid them drying out," says Tom.

We like the Monaco Green 2.7m Parasol at Robert Dyas as it's currently £30 off the listing price.

5. Consider hanging patio curtains

"Another easy, quick, and inexpensive way to increase sun shade (or deep shade) is hanging patio curtains," says Joe Rutter.

Curtains can be attached and taken down when they're not needed. It's also easy to open and close them as the sun moves. They make a low-budget garden screening idea, an alternative to louvred canopies which cost thousands of pounds.

6. Install an arbour

"Arbour and pergola are often used interchangeably. The truth is, they’re not the same, and both have unique qualities," says Joe Rutter, garden building expert from Garden Buildings Direct.

"Arbours may have an open roof structure like pergolas, but the trellis-like feature on each side is what makes them distinctive. The trellis enables vines to grow up and over the arbour to provide shade."

"Plus, an arbour is a vertical structure often seen in a landscape or garden design. It provides not only shade but also shelter and privacy. Some arbours are large enough to include bench seating on the sides. They provide the ideal shady spot to read, enjoy your morning coffee or have some alone time," says Joe.

Shop arbours

7. Choose a day bed with a canopy

It's possible to buy garden furniture like daybeds which bring style and comfort as well as shade.

"If you're looking for an alternative to a parasol, a covered outdoor daybed, like our safari-chic Karama Daybed at OKA, is a great choice for lounging outside in luxurious comfort. The neutral canopy can be rolled up to allow a cool breeze to waft through, or rolled down for extra privacy and shade on the three-seater outdoor sofa," says Sue Jones, Co-Founder and Creative Director at OKA.

8. Construct a pergola

For permanent shade solutions, pergolas are a safe bet. "This type of shade is permanent, assembled and installed with an open roof system," says Joe Rutter. There are many places to look at where to buy pergolas so it's worth shopping around to find the best deal and style for you.

"If you’re looking for something that can complement your architectural garden style, pergolas are the way forward. Keep in mind, though, that pergolas offer partial shade. But this can be filled in by adding a piece of fabric, e.g. patio curtains as a cover." There are also pergola roof ideas you can incorporate which can enhance the shade more.

"You can place the fabric at the top or add a bar system to place a patio curtain at the end sides. That way, you can cover or uncover the pergolas as you like," says Joe.

9. Grow climbing plants

Fast growing climbing plants can be trained up pergolas and trellis's to create 'green screens' and add cool shade to your seating areas.

Opt for vines like ivy for quick coverage and morning glory for prolific purple blooms. Other classics are star jasmine, clematis and climbing roses. Bamboo can be a tricky plant to grow with recent revelations that invasive bamboo can damage homes. But if you're growing it in solid metal containers without drainage holes it's possible to keep it from spreading.

10. Go for a combined pergola awning

"Pergola awnings offer a permanent and expansive option for outdoor shading. They feature a retractable fabric shade above fixed legs, making them a more visible focal point in your outdoor space," says Lisa Cooper, Head of Product at Thomas Sanderson.

"Pergola awnings blur the lines between in and outdoor living. They can be customised with a range of retractable fabrics to complement your home’s architecture."

"Pergola awnings offer a larger shading option than parasols and shade sails, and are available with smart controls, allowing you to operate via app and voice command. They can also be upgraded to include LED patio lighting and heating, so you can continue to enjoy your outdoor space into the evening," says Lisa.

11. Go for an inexpensive garden gazebo

"Even a small garden gazebo is enough to provide a covered seating area for your family and guests," says Joe. Larger options are available and can be constructed fairly easily and taken down when they're not needed.

Pop-up tent-style ones are inexpensive too and unlike shade sails you don't need to put up posts or hooks into permanent structures so they're great for novices who want instant results.

FAQs

How to create shade in garden in the UK?

"You can make shade with a range of garden gazebos, awnings, garden rooms and parasols, but we like the idea of creating shade with plants and complementary structures. For example, installing a pergola and planting fast-growing scrambling roses up the stands and over the roof, creates natural shade and provides a stunning floral feature to enhance your outdoor experience," says Stephanie Harrod of Harrod Horticultural.

"A more permanent shade option is a pergola with an awning - even better if the awning is retractable. These kinds of traditional garden structures can be used year-round and help create a centrepiece for outdoor entertaining and provide shelter from the sun and rain showers to better adapt to unpredictable weather conditions," Says Stephanie.

What is an alternative to a parasol?

"A shade sail is an alternative option to a garden parasol, these sails are large pieces of fabric that can be attached to garden walls, trees and fences in your garden to provide an area of shade," says Garden design expert Tom Clifford, from Gardenstone.

"Alternatively, these sails can be attached to separate poles, similar to a gazebo, which allows you to move them to different areas of your garden. Sails are far more sturdy and robust than parasols so they are a good choice if your garden is susceptible to high winds," says Tom.

If you do have a garden which gets a lot of sun, embrace this in your flower beds by growing the best plants for sun.

Apple have launched a new hands free smart lock feature as part of their latest Apple Home range.

The feature will mean you will not need to use your keys when approaching the front door as long as you have an Apple device with you, useful for those looking to design a smart home.

We explain what smart locks are, how the Apple smart lock system works and where you can buy smart locks.

What is a smart lock?

A smart lock is an advanced type of lock that provides enhanced security and convenience through the use of digital technology. 

Unlike traditional locks, which require physical keys, smart locks allow for keyless entry and can be controlled remotely using devices such as your phone.

The main features of a smart lock includes:

• Fingerprint recognition: This technology ensures that only authorised users can unlock the door with their fingerprint on their phone.
• PIN codes: Users can enter personalised codes on the included, pre-paired wireless keypad. Users have the added benefit of easily managing guest access with both periodic passwords and one-time passwords. These passwords can be created and shared remotely and can be used even if the lock is offline.
• Mobile apps and voice assistants: The lock can be controlled remotely through various platforms such as Aqara Home, Alexa, Apple Home/Siri, Google Home/Google Assistant, SmartThings, Home Assistant and more.
• Still can use traditional keys: In case of emergencies or technical issues, users can still access the lock with traditional physical keys. This ensures that there is always a reliable backup method for unlocking the door.

Apple smart lock feature part of iOS 18 update 

Apple has announced a new hands-free unlocking feature for its Apple Home platform, set to debut with iOS 18 in September. 

This feature uses the U1 ultra-wideband (UWB) chip in iPhones and Apple Watches to automatically unlock compatible smart locks as users approach, without needing physical interaction.

With hands-free unlocking, your door will unlock automatically when you're six feet away and approaching from outside, as long as your watch or phone, which has been unlocked by you in the last 24 hours, is with you.

However, transitioning to UWB-enabled smart locks may bring challenges like battery life concerns due to higher power consumption and as the Apple Home Key uses UWB hardware existing smart locks will not be compatible.

Where to buy smart locks

When considering where to purchase smart locks, consumers have several options to explore, each catering to different preferences and needs. 

There are numerous online retailers that host a variety of smart home products such as Amazon, Screwfix and Yale UK including smart locks from well-known brands like August, Yale, Schlage and more.

However, for those seeking a complete smart home setup, professional smart home installers and integrators can recommend and install smart locks as part of a comprehensive home automation solution. This can help ensure proper integration with existing systems and devices.

Local locksmiths and security experts may also offer smart locks and can provide a personalised service based on local security standards and installation expertise.

You can also buy directly from smart lock manufacturers and should ensure authenticity and may offer direct customer support and warranty benefits.

Your beautiful bi-fold doors may be perfect for connecting the outside to your home but what about bugs? Knowing how to retrofit fly screens means you can enjoy the cool breeze of a summer’s evening without worrying about how many unwanted creatures are sneaking into your home.

Installing a fly screen on your bi-fold doors, sliding doors, french doors and windows means you can open them any time you want. And it's a job that any competent DIYer can tackle. But be warned most self fit solutions aren't suitable for large wide spaces. So, to fully appreciate your outdoor space you may need to call in a professional. 

Here we give you the lowdown on the options, how to fit yourself and what you can expect to pay if you go DIY or call in a pro. 

Retrofit fly screens: Can I fit them myself? 

Fly screens come in many shapes and sizes, with a host of self fit solutions that are ideal for the DIYer, but be warned they are not suitable for every window as Harry Doling, business development director at Umbra reveals. “These (self-fit solutions) will tend to be very basic products often with size limitations. If you have a large opening such as a bi-fold door you may find that there are no DIY options for this.”

You can purchase simple and inexpensive kits like this Yotache Fly Screens for Doors from Amazon for as little as £20, but these are typically just a mesh screen that sits across a door or window opening using magnets to keep installation costs down. If you are looking for something more permanent, you need to be looking for options that include a mesh and frame to get a good fit that will last.  

How much does it cost to retrofit fly screens?

Costs will vary depending on whether you decide to go down the DIY route or pay a professional to do the job. “While DIY options can be cheaper upfront with mesh and frame kits readily available,” says Doling, “They require measurement skills and proper installation techniques” 

If unsure about tackling the job yourself then call in a pro. “Professionals handle these aspects and ensure a proper fit, potentially saving you time and frustration in the long run. Professional installers will also take the responsibility away from you meaning that should anything go wrong with the product, you don’t have to deal with the problem yourself.

Obviously the DIY option (more of this later) will negate labour costs, but how much will you have to pay for materials? “Budget fly screens are available online from around £100/sqm”, reveals Doling. “While premium options are available from professional installers for £1200+ per window.” And don’t forget that, “Factors such as the number of screens, window/door size, and complexity of the job will all impact the price.” 

 Tools you’ll need to help retrofit a fly screen 

How to retrofit a fly screen: a step-by-step guide

Before you can tackle fitting a fly screen you will need a few tools to help get the job done. These include a tape measure, a screwdriver and a utility knife for any cutting that might be needed. Here Harry Doling runs through the steps you’ll need to follow to help install your own flyscreen.

 1. Measure up and get your screen 

Measure the width and height of the window opening. Subtract about 1.5 cm (0.5 inch) from each measurement to allow for proper fit within the window frame. Once you have the measurements, purchase a premade fly screen slightly smaller than your window measurements. 

2. Door/Window preparation 

If you have an existing fly screen and you want to get rid of it and replace it with a new fly screen, the first step is to open the window fully. Then locate the spline (the thin rubber cord) that holds the mesh in the frame. Using a screwdriver, carefully pry the spline out of its channel, starting from a corner. Once loose, remove the entire spline and the old mesh. 

3. Install new flyscreen 

To install a flyscreen, Doling recommends that you "Follow the suppliers installation instructions". This typically includes measuring the mesh to fit inside the window with a little excess mesh. The spline is then replaced ensuring that the mesh is not too tight. A specialist tool like this Window Screen Spline Roller Tool from Amazon is ideal to replace the spline. The final step is to remove the excess mesh with a knife. 

4. Test and make final adjustments 

Once the mesh has been installed in the frame and fitted you need to gently close the window or door to check for a proper fit. The screen shouldn't bulge or hinder closure. Finally, make any minor adjustments as needed. 

FAQs

Is there a difference between fitting to a bifold door and sliding door? 

The difference between sliding doors and bifold doors lies in their design. Sliding doors slide behind each other, while bifolding doors close together on a hinge. So how you fit them depends “On the type of flyscreen you go for,” shares Doling.

“If you go for a fixed screen there is unlikely to be much difference, however if you go for a rolling retractable fly screen you will have to be aware of the space required for rolling this up.  You need to make sure it doesn’t conflict with the way the door opens.”

Can you buy bifold/sliding doors with flyscreens already fitted? 

Typically fly screens are retro fitted to doors and windows to help keep out insects but some manufacturers have systems that encompass doors and fly screens, but these are rarely a budget option as Doling explains, “Yes you can, but these tend to be the premium versions. A good example is Centor doors, who have an option where you can choose to add a flyscreen option in.” 

Are there different types of fly screens? 

When looking to retrofit a flyscreen you have a few choices from which to choose from, “The main choices are fixed or retractable.” reveals Harry Doling. “Then within the retractable category you can have ones that travel side-way and versions that travel up and down like a roller blind.” 

But which should you choose? “The most suitable type for you will depend on your window and application,” continues Doling. “For example, a kitchen may require permanently fixed fly screens in place on the windows. Whereas opening spaces such as bi-fold doors are likely to need retractable screens.”  

But it’s not just the opening that needs attention. “It’s also important to look at the way the flyscreen is controlled.  Some will be manually operated – either a chain, or you can move them with your hand. More premium options will have electric motors but even these are becoming very affordable and can add a touch of luxury to your home. One tip from Doling is, “If you already have electric blinds (or want to install electric blinds) adding in electric fly screens from the same controller is a good idea.”

Retrofitting fly screens to your doors and windows means you can enjoy your indoor and outdoor together. Check out our patio lighting ideas, best patio heaters and patio planting ideas to add extra ambience to your outdoor space. 

Although internal window ideas may not immediately spring to mind when thinking about types of windows, advances in glazing, frames and architectural design have paved the way for using glass in a variety of innovative ways - not just on the outside of your home, but also on the inside.

Whether it’s a dark basement in need of some extra natural light, a way to turn an open-plan space into a more broken-plan layout, or simply the desire to add a wow-factor to your home, internal window ideas can be the perfect addition to your self-build, extension or home renovation.

Intrigued? We've done the research and spoken to the experts to find out just how you can make them part of your home.

Internal window ideas can add more than light

Although the benefit of more light is a given when it comes to internal window ideas, they can also serve other, equally beneficial purposes.

“Internal glass windows and doors are a great solution when you not only seek to maximise natural light but also have an intent to lead the eyes for a consistent flow,” says Michelle Martin, senior marketing executive at IQ Glass.

“In addition, the acoustic performance of glass is great and works well for multipurpose rooms where you want to be able to easily create cosy areas without the use of normal walls which could feel restrictive.”

1. Use a glazed floor panel to add light above and below

For a jaw-dropping wow factor, remember internal window ideas aren’t just about walls, they can also be used in floors. Perfect for shining light down into basement conversions or for shooting light upwards into a windowless room, make sure you seek advice from a structural engineer before installing one.

“Low iron glass is always recommended due to the thick layers of glass generally needed to create the structural support to the walk on glass floor,” explains Michelle Martin.

“Anti-slip resistance can also be applied to the surface of a walk on structural glass floor for added safety, especially to an external glass floor,” adds Michelle. “There are numerous ways to do this, such as applying a sandblasted finish to the external surface of the glass floor to create an abrasive external surface. This makes the glass translucent which still allows for ample light transmission through the structural glass unit, whilst providing privacy and anti-slip resistance.”

If you prefer to keep your glass clear, other options include the addition of specialised ceramic inks to the surface of the glass in various patterns, or the application of indented patterns.

2. Turn open plan into broken plan with internal glazing

“Many of us enjoy the sense of space that comes with open plan homes,” says Paul Feldwick, product manager at Schüco UK, “but the communal aspect can be tricky when juggling responsibilities such as working from home. Internal glazing can provide a separate, quieter space yet still create a sense of connection.”

If you've designed a living room layout that contains two spaces with entirely different looks and purposes, large internal windows and opening doors will define the space - without dividing it entirely. 

Mirroring the large doors at either end of each room the internal glazing also creates a sense of symmetry that is pleasing to the eye.

3. Create a new room with internal glazing

If you have a narrow corridor connecting two rooms or an extension, adding internal glazing is a great way of creating a new and completely separate room. 

Perfect for activities, such as playing music, or perhaps to create a cosy home office idea, the new space can either be opened up for easy access at both ends, or closed when an element of privacy is required. And, as this scheme from ID Systems demonstrates, you don’t have to use the same frames on both ends of the corridor.

"This modern family home was transformed with the addition of a large open-plan extension at the rear," explains Edward Stobart, technical sales manager at ID Sytems, "and to provide a connection between the existing house the owners opted for the art-deco style sliding glass doors. 

"The doors are ideal for partitioning the open plan space, allowing the piano to be played in the snug without interrupting the rest of the family. The slender aluminium frames match the look of traditional steel framed glazed screens without the hefty price tag."

4. Use internal window ideas with sloped ceilings

If low sloped ceiling heights make you concerned that your rooms will feel oppressive, speak to your structural engineer about a glass wall and door system instead. 

With the right supports in place, a combination of fixed panels with opening doors, could turn a dark, cramped space into a light and airy series of rooms. 

“Space in our modern homes is at a premium,” says William Woods, manager at Super Slim Glazing who created this scheme. “Open plan living is now taking a back seat for broken plan, where we are seeking to keep the light and airy feel of open plan but creating individual spaces where we can work, rest and play.

“In response to this need, we developed a slimline system with a suite of doors that offer hinged, sliding, pivot, bi-folding, pocket and telescopic solutions,” explains William. “This means that regardless of the floor plan, with the right structure in place, dark and unused spaces turn into light and accessible spaces.”

5. Switch bare walls for stylish glass solutions

On the opposite end of the scale, if the type of ceiling you have in your home is much higher than normal, you may find yourself wondering what to do with a large expanse of empty wall space. The good news is, internal glazed windows and doors can equally work their magic - but in a different kind of way.

Rather than worrying about maximising light, instead focus on the aesthetics to avoid replacing a blank wall with boring bare glass. Have some fun with your framework and create a Mondrian style effect piece of glazed art, using a variety of rectangles and squares for an interesting visual effect.

6. Use your internal window ideas as a display area

Stuck for living room storage ideas? We love this internal window, which doubles up as a storage solution. 

While it still allows ample quantities of  light to enter into the rooms either side, by adding a wooden shelving system to match the window frames, there’s also an element of screening in place - perfect in this situation where a home office is located next to a more communal room

For those times when more privacy is required, simple roller blinds are an unobtrusive window treatment that are discreet but effective.

7. Add a simple single window to a stairwell

If your stairwell benefits from lots of light as it forms part of a new extension, but the rooms off it not so much, a simple single window can add light and connection to the rest of your home. This can be a fixed panel, or even a single opening casement window if you’re looking for some extra natural ventilation.

"Traditionally houses have been built with smaller, box shaped individual rooms and solid wooden doors," says Edward Stobart, "but as design trends have evolved over the past 20 years, more and more home owners have opted for larger, open plan living spaces and more external glazing. 

"More glazing brings more natural light," he continues, "and the real benefit of internal glazing is its ability to draw light further into the home to create bright and contemporary living spaces. There is no point designing a light-filled extension if it leaves the rooms in the rest of the house feeling dark and unappealing in comparison."

8. Use reeded glass between a kitchen and utility room

While the valuable addition of light is often the primary reason behind internal window ideas, it’s not always accompanied by the need for clear lines of sight. A prime example of this is when utility rooms without any natural light are positioned next to a kitchen. 

In this instance, opting for a more obscure glass finish, such as reeded or fluted glass still ensures the dark room benefits from extra light, but means the homeowners have to worry less about what might be on view when entertaining. 

9. Use arched internal windows to mirror external window styles

Continuity between your exterior and interior is one of the most effective ways to create cohesion when you're building a house. So if you’ve embraced curves or arches on doors, then mirror this feature in your internal glazing ideas. 

It’s a detail used to good effect in this scheme where a curved window separates the kitchen from the dining room. A standard rectangular window could have perhaps made the inhabitants feel they were being observed through a viewing panel, whereas the soft edges and detail of this design joins the spaces in a more relaxed and casual way. 

Adding an opening section that slides across also turns into a handy serving hatch and allows whoever is in the kitchen to still join in the conversation.

10. Showcase a swimming pool but get the technical details right

Considering swimming pool ideas for your basement conversion? If so, then be sure to get the technical details of your glazing specification for any internal window ideas right.

“If using a steel framed glazing system in a warm, chlorinated environment like a
swimming pool we recommend using galvanised steel profiles to provide corrosion resistance,” says Paul Feldwick. 

Schüco UK installed the windows and doors around the stairwell and door to the swimming pool in the basement level of this London home in order to maintain the pool area’s ambient temperature while still letting in natural light.

“The glass unit will also need to have high corrosion resistance, particularly the edge, seals and sealant,” adds Paul, “ so it is imperative to talk to your glazing manufacturer to get their recommendation. In addition, you should increase the maintenance schedule for a steel glazing system used in a harsh environment like an indoor swimming pool, such as inspecting the steel frame every year or two.

“It is also important that the system is thermally broken to accommodate the temperature difference between the pool room and the surrounding area,” explains Paul. “Sealed units with top quality seals are also required because of the moisture content in the air.”

Thermally broken glazing helps to manage condensation by reducing surface temperature differences, however remember that it is most effective when combined with other measures such as dehumidification and home ventilation. 

11. Remove walls in favour of seamless internal glazing

Back in the realms of basement conversion ideas, a fully glazed frameless wall can be an extremely effective way of removing the boundaries between new rooms, while still keeping the purpose and use of individual rooms intact.

To deal with the absence of natural light in the walls, the homeowners have also employed a number of additional techniques to add more light into the area. A rooflight draws light down, while integrated shelving lights, recessed ceiling spotlights  and the use of large mirrors help to avoid dark corners - essential in a home gym where safety is paramount.

Worried about sound transferring? “Glazed walls are also surprisingly good at reducing noise,” adds Paul Feldwick, explaining that one of the company's system provides sound reduction values of up to 44dB for fixed glazing and 37dB for a single-leaf door.

Keen to investigate internal window ideas further? We asked the experts to  tell us what’s currently proving popular.

“Internal steel framed hinged doors including steel look finishes are a growing trend, particularly the Parisian inspired internal arched doors,” says Michelle Martin.

Paul Feldwick agrees. “Traditional-style steel framed windows and doors have become popular recently and unlike some other types of glazing system, they look stylish when used either internally or externally."

"Over the past 10 years there has been a huge increase in the popularity of internal glazing, driven by the changes of the way we use our homes but also influenced by styles and home design trends," adds Edward Stobart. "Internal glazed doors and windows can become a statement of design. Sliding systems have been used not only to partition open-plan living spaces but also to divide walk-in wardrobes and even en-suite bathrooms from a bedroom – with the option of installing the system with satinated glass for privacy."

Paul’s top tip? “When choosing steel framed internal glazing consider using the same or a similar style of glazing system externally on the home to achieve a smart, cohesive aesthetic.”

For more window inspiration, take a look at some large window ideas and make sure you know your window sizes before you start to plan and cost up your new scheme.