When it's time to hang that designer wallpaper you’ve had your eye on for ages, there’s guaranteed to be one obstacle with the potential to spoil a professional-looking finish – a power socket – and usually more than one.

Every home has them, so there’s no getting away from the fact that you will need to cut into your precious wallpaper when trying to paper around them.

To ensure a successful cut, you will need the right wallpaper tools and techniques, and a slow, methodical approach. Trying to rush through the process with a blunt tool will only lead to rough cuts, unsightly gaps, and the distinct possibility you’ll have to start over again. Follow this guide to make sure that doesn't happen.

Tools you’ll need to wallpaper around sockets

The right tools are essential for success when wallpapering around sockets. Nischal Pomu, Director at Platinum Paints, points out the two main factors you need to take into account.

"The main thing is to have sharp tools and take your time rather than trying to force cuts quickly,” he says, listing the following essential tools:

• Sharp snap knife - try this wolfcraft Metal Snap-Off Blade Knife from Amazon
• Wallpaper scissors - try these Harris Seriously Good Paperhanging Scissors from Amazon
• Screwdrivers
• Wallpaper smoother
• Seam roller – like this Stanley Dynagrip Soft Seam Roller from Amazon
• Spirit level or laser level
• Steel trimming edge/wallpaper guide
• Clean cloth and sponge – try the Spontex Decorators Sponge from Amazon
• Good quality adhesive suitable for the wallpaper type

How to wallpaper around sockets

1. Turn off the electricity and loosen faceplate

The key step is to switch off the electricity before you start any work. Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb, says. “I would recommend using a voltage tester afterwards to fully ensure that the socket is dead.” Alternatively, plug in a phone charger or a lamp to check if the socket is live.

Once you are sure the power is no longer live, “carefully unscrew the socket so that it is a few millimetres away from the wall," says Mark.

2. Hang the wallpaper

Now you can start to hang wallpaper. I always make sure the strip of wallpaper fully covers a socket to ensure a clean finish. Measure up before you start wallpapering to ensure you get a drop in the right place. Paste the paper, or wall, and hang. “Smooth out the wallpaper as normal," says Mark, "and allow it to fully cover the socket’s area.”

3. Locate socket and cut wallpaper

Once the paper is hung, the next step is to locate the socket. “Gently feel for the edges of the socket through the wallpaper,” says Mark, making sure you locate the middle of the socket and its corners.

Using a sharp knife, "cut an X shape diagonally from corner to corner across the centre of the socket," he suggests.

Alternatively, cut from the middle to the edges using wallpaper scissors. This is less likely to mark the face of the socket and might be a good idea if you have a metallic or painted finish.

4. Trim the excess

With your cuts in place, you will have four flaps of wallpaper. Get a pair of wallpaper scissors and start trimming. “Carefully trim the flaps back towards the edge of the socket, making sure to leave enough paper to neatly tuck behind the faceplate," says Mark, recommending you leave around 5mm to be sure.

5. Finish up

With the wallpaper trimmed, it's time to finish the job. “Use a wallpaper smoother to flatten the wallpaper around the socket," says Mark, "making sure to remove any air bubbles.”

However, for safety reasons, be careful not to squeeze any excess paste behind the faceplate. Give it a wipe if needed, re-tighten the faceplate and wipe down the wall and socket with a dry microfibre cloth such as these MR.SIGA Microfiber Cleaning Cloths from Amazon. Check there’s no excess paste left before you consider using the socket again.

Common mistakes to avoid when wallpapering around sockets

1. Overcutting

There is nothing more annoying than cutting away too much wallpaper and having to start again. "The biggest mistake DIYers make is overcutting too early," warns Nischal Pomu. "If you remove too much wallpaper around the socket, gaps can remain visible permanently. It’s always better to trim smaller amounts gradually," he says to prevent it from happening.

2. Using blunt blades

“I would recommend always using a sharp blade, as even the highest quality wallpaper can snag or tear if the knife isn’t incredibly sharp," advises Mark Irving. “Change the blade every few cuts, if possible," he adds, "to ensure that you are accurate with every try.”

3. Using stiff wallpaper

If you are working in awkward areas with stiff wallpaper, it's more prone to tearing, which can be hard to hide. A simple trick is to use a hairdryer, suggests Mark Irving, “Warming up any stiff wallpaper using a hairdryer can help the paper to flex around any awkward spaces.”

4. Ending up with uneven patterns

Hanging patterned wallpaper adds another level of difficulty to wallpapering around a socket. Get it wrong, and you’ll waste wallpaper and take more time. “For patterned wallpaper, it helps to dry-position the sheet beforehand so important parts of the pattern do not end awkwardly through sockets or light switches,” advises Nischal Pomu. This will help the wallpaper line up with adjacent sheets.

FAQs

Should I cover sockets before wallpapering?

“If the electricity has been safely isolated and the faceplate slightly loosened, you generally don’t need to fully wrap or cover the socket itself,” says Nischal Pomu.

However, it's never a bad idea to protect sockets against paste or moisture, especially if you're using traditional wallpaper paste. “Although a small amount of paste isn’t particularly a problem," says Mark Irving, "any moisture that gets into the plug holes or sockets could be very dangerous.”

There are a couple of options you can use to protect a socket. “Use painter’s tape over any openings," says Mark, noting how, "it is also possible to use cling film lightly wrapped around the socket, which will help to keep everything protected.”

Another way to prevent paste from seeping behind a loose faceplate, says Mark, :"is to carefully use a microfibre cloth behind a loose faceplate to catch any excess.”

The most simple and preventative method is to avoid overloading the wallpaper with paste around sockets in the first place. ”Instead, use a thin coat to reduce any mess," he advises.

How long before I can switch the electricity back on?

Electrical outlets and moisture don’t mix well. However, Nischal Pomu says you can switch the electricity back on almost immediately. “In most cases, once the wallpaper has been fitted, trimmed cleanly, and any obvious moisture around the socket has been wiped away properly, the electricity can usually be switched back on safely.

“You generally do not need to wait for the wallpaper paste to fully dry overnight before restoring power," he adds, "providing the socket area itself is clean, dry, and not saturated with adhesive.”

However, if there is excessive paste or moisture around the socket, it's best to leave it for a few hours. “If there’s any uncertainty around moisture entering the electrical fitting, it’s always safer to allow additional drying time or seek advice from a qualified electrician before switching the power back on," confirms Nischal.

Personally, I leave it for at least three or four hours to be safe. Even if I’ve covered a socket, I remove the covering and wipe it dry, but still leave it for an hour to be on the safe side.

If you don’t need the socket because you aren't living in your property while renovating or extending it, you can of course leave it longer. I always err on the side of caution when working with electricity, after having a few unwanted incidents.

When wallpapering around sockets, you need to get your cuts right. But getting this wrong isn’t the only wallpapering mistakes you can make. Try these wallpaper hacks to help avoid issues when wallpapering your home.

If you're asking should you wallpaper over damp, the most obvious and simple answer is no. Why would you? If you have a recurring damp issue, then wallpapering over it will rarely solve the problem. However, it's not always that straightforward.

Covering a constant source of damp will of course only make the problem worse. However, if you have dealt with the issue, or it's only an infrequent visitor and you know why, then knowing how to wallpaper the damp area correctly could be successful.

Here, we explore the reasons for wallpapering over damp areas, and the specialist products and tools you’ll need to ensure your efforts aren't in vain.

Why you shouldn't wallpaper over damp

Wallpapering directly over damp surfaces is generally not recommended, as Nischal Pomu, director at Platinum Paints, notes. “In most cases, I would say no, not until the cause of the damp has been properly identified and resolved. Wallpapering over active damp usually only hides the issue temporarily.”

George Edwards, managing director of Timberwise, shares the issues that can arise if you do wallpaper over damp.

“You will be masking a problem that will only get worse," he warns. “Moisture will be trapped behind the paper, and mould will grow in the dark between the paper and the walls.” This can lead to serious issues, especially if the damp is constant.

“Within weeks or months, you’ll see patches bleeding through and may notice a musty smell,” explains George. "You will have to strip the damaged wallpaper, and you will be back to square one, except it will be worse.”

“Any ongoing rising damp, penetrating damp, or constant moisture problems should always be fixed before decorating,” agrees Nischal.

Reasons why wallpapering over damp could be an option

Once damp has seeped into walls and ceilings, it can cause cracks, defects and discolouration, and this may make wallpapering seem like a good idea rather than painting over damp.

“A lot of homeowners wallpaper over damp mainly for cosmetic reasons," agrees Nischal Pomu. "Damp staining, hairline cracking, and uneven surfaces can make a room look tired very quickly, so wallpaper is sometimes seen as a quicker way to improve appearance without major repair work.”

However, wallpapering over damp is typically a temporary fix while the issue is being investigated. “The problem is that wallpaper rarely solves damp itself; it usually only hides the symptoms for a period of time," notes Nischal.

That said, “there are situations where wallpapering can still work once the wall has stabilised and dried out,” he continues. “For example, an old chimney breast may leave historic staining after the original issue has already been repaired. In those cases, after proper stain blocking and preparation, wallpaper can sometimes be used successfully.”

Wallpapering can also be an inexpensive option compared to removing any plaster, dealing with the issue and getting the wall/ceiling re-plastered. Keeping your house temperature at the right level can also be a way to help prevent the damp returning once the main problem has been resolved.

Shop these tools to wallpaper over damp

Best wallpaper for damp walls

If you have got walls that have suffered from damp, or are currently suffering from it, you certainly don’t want to use standard wallpaper when papering over damp. Alisdair Simpson, managing director at Retford Wallcoverings Limited explains why.

“Standard pulp-based wallpapers are generally unsuitable for damp-affected walls, as continual moisture exposure can cause the material to break down, often leading to staining, mould growth and adhesion failure.”

If you are going to wallpaper over damp areas, you will need to use a specific type of wallpaper to address the issue. “Specialist systems such as Wallrock Dampstop Thermic are designed to help block the appearance of penetrating damp and associated staining," explains Alisdair, "whilst creating a durable surface suitable for further decoration using paste-the-wall lining papers on top.

“When using Wallrock Dampstop Thermic, it is particularly important that dimensionally stable PTW wallcoverings are used, as traditional wallpapers may be more susceptible to movement and adhesion issues over the non-porous metallic surface.”

However, once the Wallrock system is in place, “standard wallpaper can be used if you’ve covered the area with damp-proof foil and/or thermal lining paper,” says Alasdair.

Wallpapering over damp with Wallrock Dampstop

If you are going to wallpaper over damp with the Wallrock Dampstop system, there is a specific process to follow advises Alisdair Simpson.

“Wallrock Dampstop Thermic is applied directly to the wall using Wallrock Dampstop Thermic Adhesive, with the grey polypropylene surface facing the wall.” But before you start, "the wall should first be cleaned, repaired and primed where necessary," notes Alisdair.

“Once dry, the metallic surface can either be left exposed to help reflect heat back into the room – making it particularly useful behind radiators,” he shares. However, the more common option is to cover it.

“Overhang with dimensionally stable PTW lining papers such as this Wallrock Fibreliner from Amazon, insulating wallcoverings such as this Wallrock Thermal Liner from Amazon, or paste the wall decorative wallpaper,” suggests Alasdair.

A key component of a successful job is the right adhesive. “For best performance, Wallrock Dampstop Thermic Adhesive should continue to be used for all subsequent papers applied on top," he notes.

However, “as with any damp-related issue, the underlying cause of the moisture should always be properly identified and resolved alongside any cosmetic treatment,” Alisdair concludes.

FAQs

Will PVA seal a damp wall?

PVA glue is often suggested as a cost-effective sealant, but in damp conditions, it's not a wise idea, explains Nischal Pomu. “PVA is not really designed to solve damp problems. In fact, sealing moisture into a wall can sometimes make issues worse over time because the wall cannot breathe properly.”

“PVA breaks down on contact with damp, becomes sticky and then causes plaster and paint to fail,” adds George Edwards.

Can I use a dehumidifier to help remove damp from walls?

The best dehumidifiers can help combat damp confirms Nischal Pomu. “A dehumidifier can definitely help reduce moisture levels within a room and speed up drying conditions, especially after condensation or minor humidity-related issues.”

However, they are not the solution to persistent damp problems, he continues. “If the damp is being caused by an ongoing issue such as rising damp, leaking gutters, failed pointing, plumbing leaks, or penetrating moisture, a dehumidifier alone will not fully solve the problem.

“It may improve the symptoms temporarily, but the source still needs to be repaired properly for a long-term solution," says Nischal.

Damp can strike anywhere and spoil walls and ceilings in any room. Make sure you know exactly how to treat damp in older houses before you start on any wallpapering project. Then, once the correct base layer has been applied, make sure you avoid these wallpapering mistakes when applying the top and final wallpaper layer.

Despite its uninspiring name and haphazard appearance, there is much more to OSB than meets the eye. It is in fact a versatile timber-based board suitable for a wide range of DIY and home renovation projects.

It's commonly used as an alternative to plywood and, in some cases, as a plasterboard alternative, adding an industrial aesthetic to interior design projects. While it could be argued that it's less visually appealing, its composition still makes it a very attractive option for many DIY builds where aesthetics aren’t the number one priority.

Here, we delve into where it can be used, its benefits and drawbacks, and how much you can expect to pay.

What does OSB stand for?

OSB stands for Oriented Strand Board. Paul Kerr, building specialist at Beatsons, explains its makeup. “It's basically a wood panel made by heat pressing wood strands with glue.”

Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb, explains what makes it appropriate for use in a variety of DIY projects. “The boards are strong and durable, which means they are commonly used for construction projects.”

Shop OSB board and tools to protect it

Popular uses for OSB

OSB is a popular choice for a lot of DIY and home renovation projects, but it's typically used inside the home explains Mark Irving. “OSB is most commonly used in internal construction projects, as it is incredibly strong and durable. Typically, it will be used for wall sheathing, roofing, loft boarding and site hoarding.

“OSB can also be used for subfloors, partition walls, and shelving" he adds, "as it provides a solid, stable surface.”

OSB is rarely used for work outside the home notes Paul Kerr, “as the boards are usually not weatherproof, and unless treated specifically, should not be used for external projects.”

If however the boards are protected or treated, they can be used on a range of projects, continues Mark. “OSB can be suitable for large-scale building projects such as timber-frame construction, sheds and DIY renovations.”

And, while it's often covered over, it can also be left exposed says Paul. “You sometimes see the odd interior design project using OSB for rustic shelving and tables,” he agrees. It’s also sometimes left bare on walls to create a more industrial aesthetic.

Pros and cons of OSB

Mark Irving reveals the key benefits and drawbacks of OSB:

What sizes does it come in and how much does OSB cost?

As well as its strength and durability, there’s another reason why it's so attractive for DIYers and that's the cost. However, the price is determined by several factors, including size, thickness, and grade.

“OSB is one of the more affordable options for construction, with prices ranging between £15 and £35 per sheet,” says Mark Irving.

“The industry standard is 2400mm x 1200mm, and the thickness varies from 9mm up to 18mm," expands Paul Kerr. “The thinnest OSBs usually start from around £10, and usually don't sell for more than £25.”

As an example of price, this OSB 3 OSB 2440mm x 1220mm x 9mm from B&Q sells for just under £20. The smallest size sells for around £11. This 18mm OSB 3 OSB 2440mm x 1220mm x 18mm from B&Q sells for £24.

The cost of OSB is also why it's considered an attractive alternative to plywood in certain situations, continues Mark.

“Typically, OSB is cheaper, which makes it the ideal choice for structural applications where the appearance of the project is less important than the budget or the performance.“

“It's usually about 20% cheaper than a plywood board," adds Paul, "which is the reason why it's taken over as the most popular board for internal framing work.”

FAQs

Should I use nails or screws to fit OSB?

Both nails and screws can be used to install OSB. Which one you use can depend on the project. If installing OSB on internal walls, ceilings, and floors, screws are a popular choice because they are much easier to remove if you need to replace any OSB. Screws will also pull OSB tight against any frame and hold well.

These Single Thread Countersunk Pozi Screws from Toolstation will do the job. The screw length should be approximately twice the OSB thickness. If you are using 18mm OSB, 40mm or 60mm screws will suffice.

Nails are quicker to install, especially with a nail gun, and are often used for fixing to exterior framing as they offer more give.

If using nails, galvanised or stainless-steel ring-shank nails are recommended. Galvanised nails such as these Tacwise Extra Galvanised Framing Nails from Amazon are good for general DIY projects, as long as they aren’t regularly exposed to moisture.

Can I paint or tile directly onto OSB?

Yes to painting, no to tiling.

OSB is porous, which means it absorbs a lot of liquid. If you are going to paint OSB, you will need to start with a primer/sealer, such as this Zinsser B-I-N from Screwfix, to seal the surface and create a stable base for subsequent coats of paint.

When it comes to tiling, it's important to know that the board will absorb the moisture if you apply the tile adhesive directly to the board, causing it to fail. Tiles can fall off walls or start to shift and crack. However, it can be used as a substrate for tiles, provided you install a cement backer board (such as this HardieBacker 6mm Backerboard from B&Q) over the OSB.

You’ll also need to make sure that the OSB is secure and doesn’t flex. This is more applicable to floors than walls or ceilings. If it does, you’ll end up with adhesion issues.

How long does OSB last?

It depends very much on its usage. If installed correctly and protected, e.g., with wall sheathing, it can last for 20+ years. However, if left unprotected and exposed, it will depend on the environment. Internally, it can last for years, as long as it is not exposed to moisture.

If used externally and left exposed to the elements, OSB will be lucky to last a year. However, if well protected, with a sealant such as Siramico Coatings Liquid Rubber Roof Coating from Amazon, it can easily last five years. To extend its lifespan, make sure to seal the edges and reapply any sealant/paint every 3-5 years.

OSB is a multi-talented board; not only can it be used on its own, but it is also part of SIPs (structural insulated panels), which are a popular product for building extensions and homes.

Is skimming over wallpaper wise? While it might not always seem like the most obvious choice, and sometimes it's not, remember that with any DIY or home improvement project, there’s rarely just one perfect solution. Sometimes, skimming over wallpaper really can be the best option.

However, getting your preparation correct is crucial to success. Skip past this stage, and it's almost pointless plastering a wall. The plaster will fail to adhere to the surface, and it won’t be long before it starts to crack and fall away from the wall or ceiling.

Here, the pros reveal when it's a wise choice to skim over wallpaper, and how to prep well to ensure your efforts aren't in vain.

Should you skim over wallpaper?

The simple answer is you can do it, but it's rarely the recommended option. It's more of a last resort.

Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements, shares his thoughts. “You can, but honestly, I wouldn’t recommend it most of the time. After 15 years doing this kind of work, I’ve seen people try it again and again – and I’ve seen it fail just as often.

“Plaster requires a stable, porous surface to adhere properly, which wallpaper doesn’t provide," he explains. This means a poor skim coat can lead to more work later. “If it’s not done correctly, you might have to redo everything in six months," warns Angelo.

Shop these tools for skimming over wallpaper

Reasons when skimming over wallpaper is a good idea

While skimming over wallpaper isn’t a first choice, there are reasons why you might need to. “If you’ve got only one layer of paper, it’s stuck down well, and the edges aren’t lifting, and if the customer’s desperate for a quick fix, skimming over wallpaper can make sense,” says Angelo Patrizi, also citing the following additional reasons why you might find it a suitable option.

• To keep the wall intact – “Usually it’s about what’s underneath," says Angelo. "In older homes, the wallpaper sometimes holds the wall together, and stripping it can turn into a nightmare."
• To get rid of textures and imperfections – Skimming over wallpaper can also saves the hassle of removing textured wallpaper and treating any imperfections in a wall. Prep properly, and all these issues can disappear behind a skim of plaster.
• It can be quicker and easier – If you have stubborn wallpaper that will take a lot of steaming and scraping to remove the wallpaper, then a skim coat is a much quicker and easier alternative.

Can I skim over any type of wallpaper?

Certain types of wallpaper work much better than others for being hidden underneath a skim coat. “Heavy lining paper is easiest as it gives a decent grip for the plaster. Standard printed wallpaper works if it’s properly glued down,” shares Angelo Patrizi.

However, other types of wallpaper are to be avoided, he warns. “Vinyl wallpaper is a lost cause; plaster just won’t stick to its non-porous surface. Anaglypta or any heavy textured wallpaper – forget it. The texture shows through, adhesion is unreliable, and the finished look is awful once painted.”

Steps for prepping wallpaper for skimming

If you decide to go ahead and skim over wallpaper, you need to get your preparation right. The more time spent on preparation, the better the outcome. Scott Godfrey, construction trade consultant for Black Hammer, shares where to start.

“Start by proving the wallpaper is genuinely sound. Pick an inconspicuous corner or seam and try to lift it. If it wants to come away with light effort, it needs stripping rather than skimming,” he says.

However, if it is a suitable candidate for skimming. Follow these steps for the best end result.

1. Secure loose sections

“Walk the wall and press along joints and overlaps," says Scott. "Any loose seam should be re-adhered and flattened before going further. Next, cut out any blisters and soft bubbles back to firm edges so you're not trapping a void under plaster.”

2. Clean surface

Next you need to ensure the surface is completely clean. “Get rid of any surface contamination like grease or polish residue with a suitable degreaser and allow it to dry," advises Scott. "Lightly sand the surface to knock back any sheen and high spots, as a slightly dulled surface is easier to bond to than a slick one.”

3. Prime surface

This is the key step to providing a proper bonding surface so the plaster does not soak in, re-wet the paste, or slide off.

“Use a problem-surface sealer or grit-bonding primer (such as this Sika Febond Blue Grit Plasterers Grip Coat from Screwfix) that is rated for difficult backgrounds like wallpaper," explains Scott. "The aim is to lock down the paper face and paste, and also give the skim coat a consistent key.”

4. Add skim coat

After priming, you then need to reinforce any weak lines. "Bed scrim tape over wallpaper seams and any cracks in the substrate that are visible or suspected" recommends Scott, "then apply plaster in two thin coats, rather than trying to cover everything in one heavy pass.

“Keeping coats tight reduces the amount of water sitting on the wall and reduces the load while the plaster is green, which is when failure often starts,” he explains.

To apply the skim coat, use a textured roller, such as the ROLLINGDOG 9 Inch Drywall Skimming Roller from Amazon, and a skimming blade.

5 . Dry naturally

“Finally, allow steady drying with gentle ventilation rather than forcing heat," advises Scott. "Rapid drying can encourage cracking, especially where wallpaper joints sit beneath the finish,” he warns.

Following this final step is important if you want to ensure a secure finish of skim to wallpaper.

FAQs

Will it be as good a finish as skimming a bare wall?

“It will never be as stable as skimming over a properly prepped wall," says Angelo Patrizi, "but if you do everything right, it can last years. However, it’s always weaker than starting afresh.”

Walls aren’t the only surface where you can skim over wallpaper; wallpapered ceilings can be tackled in the same way, but proceed with caution, says Angelo.

“Ceilings are a whole different story; if the bond fails there, gravity takes over, and you end up with a disaster," he warns. “I’m much more cautious about skimming ceilings than walls. On walls, you’ve got a little more wiggle room.

“Any movement or damp issue behind the skim on walls or ceilings will cause trouble sooner or later,” he adds, so it's vital to make sure any prep is done thoroughly.

What can go wrong?

In the short term, the skim can start to fail almost immediately, shares Angelo Patrizi. “The usual problem is the skim coming away from the wallpaper as it dries, because the paper shifted or wasn’t stuck down properly.” This can be dangerous and messy, particularly on a skimmed ceiling.

“Ceilings are risky; sections can fall, and that’s a nightmare to clean up," advises Angelo, adding the other issues that can occur include, “seeing bubbles appear from trapped moisture, and hollow spots where the plaster never got a good grip.”

Skimming can also trap moisture, leading to long-term issues, including damp patches that can cause mould growth and staining. Eventually, this can lead to plaster failure.

“If you ever need to redo the wall, you're also dealing with a fused mess of plaster and paper," says Angelo. "It’s much harder to strip back. Skipping steps at the start usually means triple the work later,” he concludes.

Skimming over wallpaper will leave you with a smooth, smart wall, ideal for a variety of decorating options, but you will still need to prep the plaster before painting or re-wallpapering. Check our guides on wallpapering over new plaster and painting new plaster to get it right.

Ask me a few years ago and I’d have probably turned my nose up at the idea of wallpapering. It would have conjured up flashbacks of my nan’s dated ‘Eternal Beau’-inspired chintzy borders, or my gran’s bold-but-questionable devotion to psychedelic 1970s florals. For a long time, wallpaper was firmly filed under “decor best left in the past”.

But then I moved into a Victorian house and realised that wallpaper might actually be the decorating equivalent of a good concealer. Uneven walls or dodgy plasterwork? Covered. Wonky chimney breast? Distracted from. Instant results? Absolutely!

I've since had several attempts at wallpapering through my home – with mixed results. So, in the interests of saving you from peeling seams, mismatched patterns and paste-related regret, here are the wallpapering mistakes I’ve learned the hard way, as well as some expert tips on how to resolve them.

1. Not using enough paste

Wallpapering our narrow hallway was quite the challenge due to our steep staircase, but we were happy with our paper choice and results, at least for a while. Then we started to notice that it was peeling in a couple of places at the edges, but couldn’t work out why.

It’s a common issue, according to Ulams Mazulis, co-owner of Fancy Walls. “Many first-time wallpaper installers run into this problem,” he says. “It often means there was not enough glue on the wallpaper or the wall. To fix it, lift the peeling edge, use a small brush to add more wallpaper glue underneath, press the wallpaper back down, and smooth it with a wallpaper roller.”

We used traditional wallpaper, but this problem can also occur with peel-and-stick variations. “This typically indicates that the wall was not cleaned well enough before installation, leaving dust and residue behind,” says Ulams. “But again, you can buy wallpaper glue and apply it to the peeling area, just like with traditional wallpaper. Another option is to use thin double-sided tape around the edge that is coming loose.”

2. I didn’t cover every wall straight away

This is a particular regret in my guest bedroom, where I picked out a lovely Mid-century Scion Khadi design in grey, but only used it in the room’s alcoves. While the paper wasn’t cheap, (which probably explains why I was so timid at the time), I regret not covering all my walls for a stronger design statement. Especially now that the wallpaper has been discontinued.

"We definitely see defaulting to a single feature wall or perhaps a couple of alcoves as a wallpapering mistake," says Sophie Smith, director and co-founder of The Living House.

"People are now much braver with their interior choices, wallpapering every wall, even papering the ceiling, which creates a cosy, cocooning feel and brings real character to a space. In fact, a feature wall in a long narrow room can actually work against you," she adds, "making the wall feel like it's coming toward you, and the room feel smaller as a result."

3. Drying washing on radiators with wallpaper behind them

Full disclosure – this is an issue my best friend had rather than myself, as my decorator had already had some stern words for me as he wallpapered behind radiators. My big takeaway from his lecture was never to dry washing on a radiator with wallpaper behind it, as the moisture and steam created is bound to cause issues.

But that’s not the only possible culprit.

"Bubbling behind the radiator often happens because the radiator’s heat slowly dries out the wallpaper glue," says Ulams Mazulis. "As the glue dries, the wallpaper can stretch or expand, which causes these bubbles."

Wallpapering in the summer months when the radiators are turned off can give more time for the glue to adhere more strongly, but if the advice comes too late for you and you've spotted bubbles appearing, you can try the following method to fix it.

Start by gently smoothing the bubble with a wallpaper smoother. "Move slowly from the edge of the bubble toward the centre to push the air out," says Ulams Mazulis. "If the bubble stays after smoothing, use a needle to make a tiny pinhole in the centre, then gently press the air out through the hole."

4. The small-scale pattern I chose looks too fussy

Now, this is a mistake I definitely won’t make again, and I’ve been much bolder with my more recent wallpaper ideas. But why do small-scale patterns fail in many spaces?

"Many people assume a small room needs a small print, but a large scale pattern can actually trick the eye into making a space feel bigger," says Sophie Smith. "It's also worth thinking about what other patterns you will be pairing the wallpaper with, such as your soft furnishings, light shades, cushions and accessories."

Fussy patterns with too many colours in them can actually be quite tricky to mix and match with soft furnishings and paint colours. So something with a bolder print and more limited palette can make life easier – especially in the long run, when you want to change up other accessories.

5. Excess paste has left dirty marks on my ceiling

As first-time wallpaperers, we definitely encountered this issue. And I can attest that if you don’t deal with wiping up the excess paste, you’ll be staring up with regret at marks on your ceiling for years, rather than admiring your lovely wallpaper pattern.

It’s best to tackle the issue as you’re decorating. "To clean excess paste from your ceiling, use hot water and a microfibre cloth," says Ulams Mazulis. "Usually, wiping the area will fix the problem. If that does not work, you, or the person who installed the wallpaper, may need to return and repaint the spot."

6. Poor pattern placement is distracting

Not getting your pattern matching right is one of those details you can’t un-see once you’ve spotted it. A poorly positioned wallpaper repeat can turn an otherwise beautiful design into something oddly distracting – whether that’s a flower awkwardly sliced in two or a poor animal or bird missing its head altogether.

"Hanging patterned wallpaper requires thinking about where the motifs start and stop," explains Sophie. "If it's a design featuring animals or flowers, you really don't want the motif chopped in half at the top of the wall where it will be the first thing people notice."

"Take the time to plan your drops before you begin, positioning the pattern so that the most prominent motifs fall in the most visible and flattering parts of the wall."

If you're nervous, go for a more forgiving patterned design, like this B&Q GoodHome Nivosa plaster-effect embossed wallpaper in teal that I've used in my hallway. It's been part of the range for years and we were impressed by the quality – it feels just as thick as some very expensive lookalikes, and hides a multitude of sins.

FAQ

Why is the wallpaper peeling on my new-build walls?

If you’ve recently wallpapered your new-build home, you might see gaps emerging between your lengths of wallpaper despite your best efforts. But this won’t necessarily be due to your pasting skills.

"If you’ve just moved into a new build, the building materials will still adjust to their new environment for up to 12 months," says interior design expert, Hannah Prescott of Diamond Interiors. "Wood, concrete, and plaster need about 12 months to dry and settle properly, so if you paint or apply wallpaper prematurely, you could end up dealing with cracks and gaps as the materials adjust to temperature changes and settle in."

Our guide to wallpapering new plaster can help ensure nothing goes wrong.

Now we've dealt with any potential disasters and hopefully renewed your confidence in wallpapering, brush up on some wallpapering hacks that will help you get a pro finish, and make sure you invest in the best wallpaper tools to make the job eaier.

If you want to add texture, interest and character to your home, installing one of the many types of wall panelling is a fantastic way to do it. Not only is it relatively easy to put up (especially if you buy pre-made panels), but it can also be done affordably.

When it comes to choosing a style that suits your interior design, there are plenty of options to consider – whether it’s contemporary slatted panels or rustic tongue-and-groove.

To help you find the perfect match for your home, we’ve rounded up some of the most popular types of wall panelling below.

1. Shaker panelling

"Shaker wall panels are one of the most traditional and popular styles of panelling, made up of simple rectangular or square-shaped frames," says Summa Costandi, co-founder at Panels by Sofia.

Whether it’s used to showcase a period property’s roots or as a living room panelling idea to add character to a new build, Summa emphasises how versatile Shaker panels can be. While they are usually bought as a kit for you to install, pre-made options are also available, and they can be fitted at either full or half height.

2. Beadboard (or bead and butt) panelling

Ideal for country homes and period properties, beadboard panelling (also known as bead and butt) features vertical V-grooves with a decorative bead in the centre – hence the name.

"It really plays into the 'cottagecore' trend that we all love right now, creating a cosy backdrop to highlight traditional features. That said, beaded panelling is also a great way to add some classic charm to a typically more modern home," says Summa Costandi.

3. Tongue and groove panelling

Tongue and groove panels have a similar design to beadboard, just without the bead in the centre. There are lots of groove dimensions available, and Summa Costandi recommends choosing a wider design if you’re looking to open up your space and make it appear larger.

"The classic style creates a clean and seamless finish; it’s also extremely versatile. Tongue and groove panels can be styled in almost every room throughout the home to design a warm and welcoming cottage feel," she says.

This style can work particularly well as a bathroom panelling idea, for example.

4. Wainscotting panelling

Wainscoting is the application of panelling to the lower half of a wall, with paint or wallpaper used on the upper section. This design technique transforms the perceived proportions of a room and can help protect walls in busy areas, so is a good option for your hallway panelling or staircase panelling.

James Bryant, founder of Cut My, says, "Visually, it helps anchor a room and can make spaces such as hallways, dining rooms or bathrooms feel more polished and finished."

5. Board and batten panelling

Simple, clean and modern, board and batten panelling is a stylish way to introduce subtle character into your home, according to James Bryant. This type of panelling consists of wide boards arranged in a grid, with narrow strips layered over the joints.

"It has a neat, architectural look that adds structure to a wall without feeling overly decorative. In a home, it can make a room feel more considered and tailored, particularly in spaces that otherwise feel plain or boxy."

6. Shiplap panelling

If your dream home has a laid-back, rustic vibe, shiplap panelling is a fantastic choice which is popular in farmhouse-style homes and coastal living rooms. It's suitable for both interiors and exteriors, and is commonly used on sheds.

"Shiplap panelling is very similar to tongue and groove visually, however, the joining method is slightly different. Traditionally, shiplap uses rebated edges that overlap to create texture and shadowed lines," explains Summa Crostindi.

7. Raised panelling

Elegant and formal, this traditional-style panelling is one of the easiest ways to make your space look polished and refined. This classic design is ideally suited to period properties but can also add depth and character to a newer home.

James Bryant says, "Raised panelling is a more traditional style, where the centre of each panel sits slightly proud of the surrounding frame. The overall effect is more classic and decorative than flat or contemporary panelling styles."

8. Slatted panelling

"Slatted panelling is all about those repeated lines, which give walls texture, rhythm and a more design-led look. It has a very contemporary feel and is great for adding warmth without overwhelming the space," says James Bryant.

He adds that this modern panelling can also enhance the perceived height of ceilings and walls, helping to add a sense of visual space to a room. Whether you install it as a feature wall or an accent section as a DIY wall panelling idea, it will add a stylish touch to any area.

9. Picture frame moulding

Picture frame moulding is another popular type of panelling and is usually formed of rectangles or squares. There are plenty of budget-friendly peel-and-stick kits available (like this peel and stick one from Amazon), making it a fast and effective way to revive boring surfaces.

Whether you paint it the same colour as your wall or a playful contrasting shade, this design will add depth, drama, and interest, mimicking that traditional style.

“Installing panelling is a simple and relatively quick way to give [your home's] features a refresh, and there are so many design options to choose from," concludes Summa Costandi.

For more design inspiration, see how one writer transformed her chimney breast using a wall panelling kit.

Tile size is the sort of decision that sounds straightforward until you're standing in a showroom holding two samples that both look completely right. Then you get home, hold them up against the wall, and suddenly neither does.

The truth is, tile size does more heavy lifting than most people realise. It shapes the atmosphere of a room, affects how practical the space feels to live in, and can make a modest bathroom feel spa-like or a generous kitchen feel cluttered. So where do you start if you want to get this right?

We've pulled together the advice that actually helps: what to consider first, where tile size really matters, how different tiling patterns interact with scale, and how to mix formats without it looking accidental.

What should you consider first when choosing tile size?

Start with function, not aesthetics. Damla Turgut, founder at Otto Tiles, is clear on this: "The first thing I always ask is where the tile will be used and what role it needs to play in the space. Tile size should be guided by function as much as aesthetics."

A large open floor needs something durable and continuous. A splashback, alcove or feature wall can afford to be more decorative. That's where smaller or medium formats come into their own, introducing pattern and texture without overwhelming the space.

Once you've nailed the function, consider how your choice of tile makes a room feel. As Grazzie Wilson, head of creative at Ca' Pietra, explains: "Tile size quietly shapes the entire atmosphere in a way people do not always expect." She says that larger formats tend to create calm, with fewer grout lines, less visual interruption and a surface that lets the eye rest. Smaller tiles introduce texture and intricacy that rewards a closer look. .

So before you fall for a tile in the showroom, ask two questions: what does this surface need to do? And how do I want this room to feel?

Does room size affect which tile size you should choose?

The short answer is yes, but it's not quite as simple as big room equals big tile. As Damla Turgut puts it: "Larger spaces often benefit from bigger tiles, while smaller areas can handle more intricate formats." The logic is sound, but it's a starting point, not a rule.

Take a compact bathroom. Instinct might say go small, but a large-format tile with fewer grout lines can actually make a modest space feel bigger, not more cramped. The key is proportion. If the tile suits the scale of the room, it can be transformative. If it overwhelms it, you'll know.

Lesley Taylor, founder at Baked Tiles, brings it back to practicality: "Tile size affects how practical the space feels once it is lived in." A smaller room with lots of small tiles means a lot of grout to clean. Worth thinking about before you commit to anything too intricate.

The bottom line? Room size sets the parameters but it doesn't make the decision for you.

Shop small format tiles

Which tile size suits which room?

Every room has its own demands. Here's how to think about tile size room by room:

Kitchens

Kitchens tend to reward larger formats on the floor. A continuous surface is visually calmer and better suited to the scale of most modern kitchens. Mid-sized tiles work well on splashbacks, where you want a bit more visual interest without the surface becoming too busy.

As Damla Turgut notes, "in areas such as splashbacks, alcoves or feature walls, the tile can be more decorative. That's where medium or smaller formats can work beautifully, as they allow you to introduce pattern, texture or rhythm without overwhelming the space."

Bathrooms

The bathroom is where smaller tiles have historically earned their reputation, and for good reason. Mosaic and metro formats add grip, handle curves and awkward corners more gracefully, and bring a sense of detail that suits an intimate space. That said, large-format tiles in a bathroom are increasingly popular, and in a well-proportioned room they can look genuinely considered.

Hallways

Hallways are hard-working spaces and the tile needs to earn its keep. Mid-sized formats tend to perform best here, navigating doorways and changes in direction without excessive cutting. Larger tiles can work in a long, straight hallway but tend to struggle the moment the layout gets complicated.

Bedrooms and living rooms

Living room tiles and bedroom tiles get to play by different rules. Without the grip requirements, steam and heavy footfall of kitchens and bathrooms, you can be a bit more creative.

In these spaces, larger formats create a calm, unfussy base that lets the rest of the room do the talking without the floor competing for attention. Smaller or patterned tiles, meanwhile, come into their own as a feature element. Behind a headboard in a bedroom, they bring the kind of detail that wallpaper offers but with considerably more staying power. In a living room, a patterned tile used to define a seating area or fireplace surround can anchor the space in a way that feels intentional rather than decorative for decoration's sake.

Outdoor spaces

Scale matters outside too. Larger porcelain formats are popular for patios and garden rooms, creating a seamless indoor-outdoor feel that works especially well when the same tile runs through from inside. Smaller formats offer more flexibility on uneven ground but do mean more grout lines to maintain.

Can you mix large and small tiles in the same space?

Yes, but with intention. Mixing tile sizes is one of those things that looks effortless when it's done well and immediately obvious when it isn't. The difference is usually whether each tile has been given a clear role.

Lesley Taylor is practical on this point: "When you are mixing tile sizes, the most important thing is to give each one a clear role within the space so it feels designed rather than random. You might use larger tiles to ground the room and then introduce smaller formats as a feature or to highlight a specific area, but keeping the colours or finishes linked will help everything sit together."

That last point is worth underlining. Contrast in size can work beautifully. Contrast in size, colour and finish simultaneously is where things start to feel busy. Pick one thing to play with and keep the rest considered.

The other thing to get right is the grout. Matching grout colour across different tile sizes helps unify a mixed scheme. Contrasting grout on every surface pulls it apart.

Shop large format tiles

FAQs

Do large-format tiles cost more to install?

Usually, yes, though the tile itself isn't the only reason. The real cost is in the preparation. Grazzie Wilson is clear-eyed about this: "With larger formats, there is also a practical layer to consider, as they do ask for a higher level of precision during installation; the substrate needs to be exceptionally flat, handling becomes more complex, and specialist levelling systems are often required to achieve that seamless finish, which can have an impact on labour. It is not a drawback, but it does mean the result relies heavily on skilled hands."

Damla Turgut adds that the consequences of getting it wrong are visible: "The adhesive coverage must be very precise to avoid issues such as hollow spots or uneven edges, and installers often need specialist tools such as suction lifters and larger cutting equipment to handle them safely."

Smaller tiles are generally more forgiving during installation, particularly in rooms where the walls or floors aren't perfectly straight. That flexibility can translate into lower labour costs – as you can often tile floors and walls yourself – though a very intricate small-tile layout brings its own time demands.

Does tile size affect resale value?

Less than you might think, and more than you'd hope. Tile size alone certainly won't make or break a house sale, but the overall impression a tiled room creates absolutely will.

Grazzie Wilson puts it well: "When it comes to resale, we find it is rarely about chasing a particular tile size and more about creating a space that feels balanced and thoughtfully put together, although there is a quiet confidence in well-proportioned tiles that suit the scale of the room, as they tend to appeal more universally than anything that feels overly busy or overly stark."

In other words, a bathroom tiled in a format that suits the room will always feel more appealing to a buyer than one where the scale feels slightly off, however hard it is to articulate why. Buyers may not be able to name what's wrong. They'll just know something is.

Ready to take the next step? Our guides to where to buy floor tiles and how many tiles do you need will help you move from decision to delivery, without the maths headache or the mystery of why you always seem to end up with too many or too few.

Look up – chances are, what you see is a flat expanse of white paint and nothing else. It's a shame, because the ceiling is the one surface in the home that most of us never think about, even though it does more for a space than most of us realise. So take this as your sign to finally reassess your ceiling ideas and consider starting with one of the most impressive options of all: the coffered ceiling.

Of all the types of ceiling you could choose, a coffered ceiling is definitely one of the most striking. It has been a staple feature of the grandest rooms in history and is now finding its way back into homes of all kinds – from sweeping Georgian townhouses to clean-lined contemporary apartments.

So what exactly is a coffered ceiling? What does it do for a room that nothing else can? And how do you know if it's right for your home?

What is a coffered ceiling?

A coffered ceiling is a ceiling featuring a series of recessed panels – known as 'coffers' – set within a grid of intersecting beams. The result is a structured, geometric pattern that sits above a room like an architectural frame.

The word "coffer" itself derives from the ancient Greek for 'basket' – a nod to the sunken, box-like quality of each individual panel. While coffered ceilings have graced some of the most celebrated buildings in history, from the Pantheon in Rome to the reading rooms of English country houses, it is in everyday homes where they can feel most impactful.

A quick note on what a coffered ceiling isn't – it's not a tray ceiling (which is just one central recessed section) and it's not exposed beams, which are structural first, decorative second.

What does a coffered ceiling do for a room?

"Coffered ceilings are often specified where a client wants to add architectural character without structural intervention," explains Zaeem Chaudhary, Director of AC Design Solutions. "In open plan living spaces particularly, they define zones and add depth without the need for partition walls."

One of the most common interior design challenges is how to give a sprawling space a sense of structure and intimacy without chopping it up with walls or overcrowding it with furniture. A coffered ceiling solves that problem from above by carving out a dining area or drawing a boundary around a seating zone without eating into floorspace.

"They can also make a property feel more expensive," points out Zaeem. And in a new build home or a recently renovated space, where every other surface can feel interchangeable, these kinds of details are what separates a house that feels ‘designed’ from one that feels generic.

Which rooms suit a coffered ceiling best?

"Coffered ceilings tend to work best in larger living spaces, such as living rooms, dining rooms or open plan kitchens, where the ceiling can become part of the architecture of the room," says Theo Jones, Director at FYNN. Home offices and libraries are another natural fit, as there's something about the combination of bookshelves and a coffered ceiling that feels entirely right.

Entrance halls and double-height hallways, meanwhile, are perhaps the most underrated location of all. A coffered ceiling in these rooms creates instant impact and will set the tone for everything that follows.

Where this style of ceiling tends to struggle is in smaller, lower rooms. Bedrooms with standard ceiling heights, small bathrooms and narrow corridors are all risky territory. "The pattern can start to look awkward," warns Theo, and the beams risk feeling heavy and enclosing rather than elegant.

What ceiling height do you need for a coffered ceiling?

The widely cited rule of thumb is that you need a minimum ceiling height of nine feet, roughly 2.7 metres, for a coffered ceiling to work comfortably. Below that, the downward projection of the beams begins to eat into headspace, and what should feel architectural starts to feel oppressive instead.

The deeper the coffers, the more generous the ceiling height needs to be. In a more modest space, shallower coffers with slimmer beams will always be the smarter choice.

Proportions matter just as much as height. "Beams that are too shallow create ugly shadow lines rather than clean recessed panels, while coffers that are too wide for the room quickly become overwhelming," warns Zaeem Chaudhary. When in doubt, let the room guide you. Sketch the ceiling to scale, divide it into a grid, and err on the side of simplicity. Fewer, cleaner coffers will always look more considered than an overly ambitious grid that the room can't quite carry.

Contemporary or period homes — which works better?

The coffered ceiling's association with period properties runs so deep that it's easy to assume that is where they belong. But both architects push back on this.

"In many cases they actually work better in contemporary homes," says Theo Jones, Director at FYNN. "Most period properties simply weren't grand enough to historically have coffered ceilings, so adding one can feel slightly out of place. Conversely, in contemporary spaces they can reinforce the geometry of the architecture."

Zaeem Chaudhary of AC Design Solutions agrees. "The key is proportion and simplicity," he says. "A modern coffered ceiling with clean shadow lines and minimal moulding detail feels current rather than traditional." Strip away the elaborate detailing and what remains is essentially a geometric grid of light and shadow – a thoroughly modern proposition.

Whether you're going traditional or contemporary, it all comes down to execution. A traditional coffered ceiling leans into the detail, with deep beams, intricate mouldings and elaborate painted finishes. A contemporary one does the opposite: shallower profiles, clean lines and a single colour throughout. The only real mistake is trying to do both at once, so pick a direction and commit to it.

FAQs

Does material choice matter?

Yes, and more than you might think. "The material choice affects not just budget but longevity and finish quality," says Zaeem Chaudhary. According to Zaeem, plaster is the premium option but it comes at a price. MDF is the most popular middle-ground choice, as it's cost-effective and capable of a very convincing finish, though it requires careful detailing at the joints to avoid visible movement over time. Solid wood sits somewhere between the two, as it's beautiful and characterful, but susceptible to warping in rooms with fluctuating temperatures.

How do you finish a coffered ceiling?

Paint is the simplest and most transformative tool at your disposal. An all-white coffered ceiling is the classic, as it’s guaranteed to make a room feel taller and brighter. For something with more drama, consider painting the recessed panels in a contrasting colour or a deeper shade than the beams, which throws the geometry of the ceiling into sharper relief.

Do coffered ceilings add value to a home?

When done well, almost certainly. "In higher-end London residential projects we see clients specifically requesting them as a premium finish," says Zaeem Chaudhary. The risk of feeling dated, he adds, comes not from the feature itself but from poor execution (over-detailed mouldings, coffers that are too deep or too wide for the room, or a finish that feels heavy rather than considered). A well-proportioned coffered ceiling, by contrast, tends to outlive other interior design trends precisely because it has never really been one.

How much does a coffered ceiling cost?

Cost varies considerably depending on room size, material choice and the complexity of the design. As a rough guide, a professionally installed MDF coffered ceiling in an average-sized living room might start from around £2,000–£3,000, while a bespoke plaster installation in a larger or more architecturally ambitious space can run to significantly more.

DIY coffered ceiling kits are available and can bring costs down considerably, though the quality of finish, and the ease of installation, varies widely. As with most things in interior design, you tend to get what you pay for.

Another way to finish your ceiling is installing coving. This classic moulding runs along the join between wall and ceiling, adding a touch of elegance without the complexity of a full coffered installation.

If the abundance of rain this winter is taking its toll on your external walls, but they're still in good condition, applying facade cream could be a potential option to help prevent water ingress, and the dreaded arrival of damp.

But what is facade cream, how does it work, is it suitable for all homes, when should you avoid using it and is it something you can DIY, or will you need to call in the professionals?

We asked two building experts to explain the benefits of this product, also sometimes referred to as masonry cream, and asked them if it really can help ensure your home stays warm and dry this winter.

What is facade cream?

So what exactly is facade cream and why could it help your home, particularly during the winter months?

"Facade cream is essentially a water-repellent cream that is specifically designed to protect your exterior walls from damp and frost damage, while still allowing the wall to breathe," explains Andy Simms, build expert at MyBuilder.com.

Acting as an invisible barrier, the cream prevents water from penetrating your walls, but as it's breathable, it still allows moisture to escape, thus preventing the risk of trapped moisture or condensation.

However, there are a number of different products available, and which one you choose depends on what your external walls are constructed with and your external cladding or finishes. Choosing the right product is key to ensuring unnecessary expenditure, warns Alex Peters, a cost check expert at Checkatrade.

"There are two main options," says Alex. "The first is facade coating which can be applied to multiple surfaces including brickwork, masonry, render and pebbledash, as well as painted surfaces. It's used to waterproof the exterior walls of a property and its composition allows water droplets to run off the surface. The material is still breathable, and it allows moisture to escape from the masonry.

"But, there's also masonry crème (often referred to as facade cream) which works in a similar way, but is mainly used on brickwork, stone and concrete," he explains. And, it's this option which is also more DIY friendly.

Shop for facade cream

What are the benefits of facade cream?

There are a number of positives to facade creams or coatings, particularly when the unpredictable combination of cold and wet in the winter can lead to many homes experiencing problems such as rising damp.

“We’ve experienced a lot of rainfall across the UK recently, which is showing no sign of slowing down, and this means that any existing cracks in our exterior walls can be exacerbated. They also risk frost-related damage when the temperature drops," says Andy Simms, "and one of the best items to help prevent this kind of masonry deterioration is façade cream."

Coating your walls to prevent water seeping in, means that you are naturally less likely to experience damp, mould and you may even see a reduction in your energy bills.

"In addition to weatherproofing and a potential reduction in the need for maintenance to your external walls, it can also improve thermal efficiency," confirms Alex Peters.

When should you not use facade cream?

Making sure you have the right product for your walls is the first and most important step to take when understanding when not to use facade cream.

In addition, Alex Peters shares the following advice. "Don’t use facade coating on brickwork or exterior walls that need repair. If your walls have any damaged rendering, cracks or bumps, the coating won’t accurately cover them.

"You need to make sure any underlying issues are repaired first. If the damage is mostly superficial (such as hairline cracks), you should be able to apply the product," he adds, "but a basecoat may still be recommended as the first step."

Timing matters too which means applying during the winter needs extra special attention – a potential dilemma given it's normally winter when you realise your walls need some extra help.

"Don’t apply the coating at the wrong time of year," warns Alex. "Some products must be applied to a dry surface in a temperature above 5 degrees celsius. Failing to do so will mean that the product doesn’t dry correctly."

How do you apply facade cream?

If you think your walls might be in need of some extra protection, the guidelines regarding application of facade cream can differ depending on which product you use. Always check the instructions to see if you need to call in a professional, or if it's something you can tackle yourself.

"If using products such as those supplied by ProPERLA , some coatings must be applied by a tradesperson who specialises in applying it," warns Alex Peters. "This is because a professional finish is necessary to ensure the coating performs at its best. It’s also to ensure that your chosen coating is certified and safe to use."

However, if opting for an alternative, such as PermaSeal, “it’s extremely easy to use," says Andy Simms.

"As long as the surface you’re applying it to is clean, free from algae and paint and has been dry for at least two days, you can apply one layer of your façade cream straight from its bucket. Use a brush for smaller areas, or roller equipment for larger areas.

“You will notice after application that your exterior wall appears white," he notes. "This is nothing to worry about. All you need to do is wait for your wall to fully dry - it will appear darker during this process, before returning to its original appearance.”

Keen to consider some alternative finishes external walls that may offer additional protection? Check out our guide to house cladding ideas, but if the problem with your walls lies more with cold, than it does damp, make sure your external wall insulation isn't in need of an upgrade first.

Ceilings are the part of our homes that we tend not to think about until there’s a problem or a change of plan. Most of the time they’re just the surface that finishes a room, separating one floor from another. But in many homes, there are good reasons to alter them, and specifically lower certain types of ceiling.

Lowering a ceiling sounds an odd thing to do as high ceilings are usually seen as a feature, giving rooms a sense of space and grandeur. So why make them lower? Reducing ceiling height can solve practical issues, improve comfort, and even modernise the look of a room.

This article explains why you might consider lowering a ceiling, the main methods used and the key things to consider before getting started.

Why lower ceilings?

People choose to drop ceilings for a mix of practical and aesthetic reasons, including:

Creating space for services – Modern homes need an increasing number of pipes, ducts, and cables. Retrofitting these into older houses can prove tricky because the structure wasn’t designed to carry them. A lowered ceiling provides a zone where wiring, heating pipes, or ventilation ducts can sit neatly out of sight.

Covering up defects – Many post-war houses suffer from uneven plaster, exposed beams or messy repairs, and in older properties, ceilings sometimes sag over time. Installing a suspended ceiling rather than repairing old ceilings, creates a fresh, level surface without the need for expensive structural work.

Improving energy efficiency – Tall rooms may look impressive but can be hard to heat. Warm air rises, leaving the occupied space below cooler. Reducing the ceiling height makes it easier and cheaper to keep a room warm – particularly in older houses.

Design – A lowered ceiling can help to redefine a space. Home cinemas often work better with a slightly reduced height for example, while kitchen ceilings and bathrooms can benefit from concealed lighting and ventilation to create clean looking spaces.

How to lower a ceiling

Lowering a ceiling doesn’t usually mean altering the floor above – it instead involves creating a new surface beneath the old one. There are two main methods for doing so.

1. Suspended MF ceiling systems

This is the most flexible option. A perimeter channel is fixed around the walls, with lightweight metal channels suspended from the existing ceiling.

Cross channels form a grid, onto which plasterboard is fixed. The depth of the void can be adjusted depending on how much space is needed for services. The finish is smooth, strong, and versatile, making this the go-to method for most modern installations.

2. Battened timber ceilings

A simpler alternative is to fix timber battens to the existing ceiling joists, lowering the level just enough to take plasterboard. It’s cheaper and easier than a full MF system but doesn’t provide for large voids. This method works well if you only need to level a surface, or cover up minor defects.

Materials and finishes to use when lowering a ceiling

Plasterboard is the standard material for lowered ceilings. There are different types of plasterboard, and a 12.5mm board offers a good balance between weight and strength, though 15mm offers better fire and acoustic performance. Avoid thin 9.5mm boards, as they flex too much and are therefore difficult to finish well.

Specialist plasterboard options include:

• Moisture-resistant boards (green-coloured) for bathrooms and kitchens
• Fire-rated boards for kitchens or between floors
• Acoustic boards to reduce sound transfer in bedrooms or home offices

Boards are fixed to the frame with drywall screws to the manufacturer's specifications, and then finished either by taping and jointing or with a skim coat of plaster. Skim plastering gives the best, most durable result, but requires a skilled tradesperson. Taping and jointing is more DIY-friendly if done carefully.

Decoration is much the same as any other ceiling and usually painted white for brightness. Installing coving can add a traditional touch, and recessed spotlights or LED strips take advantage of the new void for modern lighting design.

Things to consider before lowering ceilings

Lowering a ceiling is a relatively straightforward project, but there are important implications to think through.

Headroom

The first issue is ceiling height and building regulations suggest at least 2.1m in habitable rooms. Whilst this isn’t always enforced in existing houses, it’s a sensible benchmark. Reduce the height too much and the room will feel cramped, and potentially less appealing to future buyers.

Fire resistance and sound insulation

Ceilings form part of the fire-resisting structure between floors. Any new construction must meet or exceed the required fire resistance, usually achieved with suitable plasterboard and correct fixings.

In multi-storey houses or flats, you may also need to consider enhanced acoustic performance, ensuring sound doesn’t travel too easily between living accommodation.

Access to services

Whilst hiding cables and pipes is neat, they’ll eventually need maintenance. Consider access panels where valves, junctions, or junction boxes may need servicing. Electrical work must comply with Part P of the building regulations, which covers domestic electrical safety.

Light and proportions

Dropping a ceiling alters how a room feels. Sometimes the effect is cosy; other times it can feel oppressive, especially if windows are small or high up the wall. A good idea is to mark the proposed height on the wall with tape to get a sense of the finished proportions.

Potential drawbacks

As with any alteration, lowering a ceiling is not without its downsides, and the most obvious is the loss of vertical space. Even a modest drop of 100mm can change the feel of a room, and in smaller houses, this may be noticeable.

There’s also the cost to consider. Whilst timber battening can be relatively inexpensive, a full MF system with plasterboard, plastering, and decorating can quickly add up, particularly if services need to be altered at the same time.

There’s also the risk of creating maintenance challenges. Concealed services are harder to access if things go wrong, and cutting into a new ceiling to find a leaking pipe is never a good idea. There’s also the possibility of ceiling condensation and ventilation issues, if moisture-resistant materials are not used where required.

Finally, if the work is not carried out to the required standards, you could compromise fire safety or fail to meet building regulations, which could cause problems when selling the house in the future.

Whether lowering a ceiling is the right choice depends entirely on your circumstances. If the goal of researching ceiling ideas is to hide an uneven surface, or modernise an outdated room, it can be a relatively simple and effective upgrade.

If you need to route new services for heating, electrics, or ventilation, the void created by a suspended system may prove invaluable. On the other hand, if your home already has modest ceiling heights, the impact on proportions might outweigh the benefits.

Lowering ceilings is one of those home improvement projects that sounds simple but carries a surprising number of implications. Done well, it can transform a space, provide practical solutions for modern living, and even improve environmental comfort. But it requires careful thought about proportions, fire resistance, building regulations, and long-term maintenance.

It’s therefore always advisable to consult a professional. A good builder or ceiling specialist will be able to recommend the most appropriate method, advise on materials, and ensure compliance with the building regulations.

Once your new lowered ceiling is in place you'll also need to think about its appearance. Try these painted ceiling ideas as a starting point, and if you're installing new lighting at the same time, check out these ideas on lighting for low ceilings.

If you haven't heard of surfactant leaching, you're not alone. Neither had I until I started looking into why I had water streaks on my bathroom walls.

I partly knew the reasons why, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything that could cause more damage in the long run such as damp. Plus, I wanted to know if there was a way to easily remove them without causing more marks.

While not as serious as water stains on walls, their unslightly appearance is something I'd rather avoid, so here's what's behind them and what you can do about it.

What causes water streaks on walls

Water streaks on walls are different to water stains in that they run in lines down the wall, unlike stains which tend to appear as brown patches in one spot.

In my particular case, they're thankfully not caused by anything too serious, but what could be causing the water streaks on your walls and do you need to be worried?

And, do water streaks look different depending on what's causing them. Building expert, Andy Simms from MyBuilder.com helps clear up what's behind the unsightly appearance of your walls.

1. Surfactant leaching

If your walls are looking streaky, there's something called surfactant leaching which may be causing the problem. But what is it?

“Surfactant leaching is when small, usually brown streaks appear on newly-painted surfaces, and it’s caused when rooms with poor conditions for paint drying, allow surfactants to rise to the surface," explains Andy Simms.

Surfactants are the water-soluble compounds which rise to the surface. The moisture causes these ingredients to 'leach' outwards, resulting in streaks running down your wall.

"It commonly occurs when poor drying conditions such as low temperature, high levels of humidity and low-level ventilation are in place," says Andy, "and it’s more likely to take place in bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms, which are more prone to humidity and condensation, or any north-facing rooms, which are usually the colder rooms in your home."

The good news is, they aren't harmful and aren't caused by more serious problems such as mould or damp.

Even if you clean them off using the advice below, there's a chance you might encounter them again. So, to try and prevent them, make sure you've followed the instructions on the paint tin when painting your walls, and ensure you use the right type of paint in the correct location.

“While surfactant leaching can be difficult to prevent, there also are a few additional steps you can take to avoid cold or humid conditions in your home, which will minimise the chances of this happening," adds Andy.

• Ventilate: opening doors and windows, even for short periods will allow humidity to escape
• Avoid cold temperatures: ideally, you don’t want the room temperature to drop below 16°C while the paint is drying
• Avoid adding moisture: if you’re painting a bathroom or kitchen, avoid activities that will generate steam, like (showering or laundry) before the paint has fully dried. If this is unavoidable, consider using a dehumidifier after these activities

2. Using the wrong paint and poor ventilation

If you've got a 'sweaty toilet' or to use the correct term, condensation on your toilet, there's a fair chance you've got water streaks on your walls too.

Any condensation problems are caused by warm moisture droplets hitting a colder surface such as an external wall. If you don't have the best bathroom extractor fans or good bathroom ventilation measures in place, then in the same way condensation will gather on your windows and toilet, so it will linger on your walls.

Throw into the mix using non-specific bathroom paint then, like me, you'll soon start to see water streaks on your walls.

The only solution here is to repaint your walls with the correct product, something Beth Murton, editor of Homebuilding & Renovating had to succumb to as well.

"Like Sarah, I opted for a matt emulsion paint because I prefer that as a paint finish. Despite convincing myself it would be fine, our bathroom ventilation just couldn't handle the condensation, and the walls were streaky within weeks. In the end I had the paint re-mixed using a low-sheen base. It's resulted in no streaks and a surface that's much easier to clean."

So, in an ideal world, when next renovating your bathroom, as well as using the correct paint, it would also be wise to add in extra ventilation to help remove moisture more effectively.

In the meantime, make sure you undertake daily tasks such as house burping, or placing a dehumidifier outside the bathroom to draw out any excess water droplets.

Shop bathroom suitable paints

Cleaning water streaks off walls

The first step when cleaning water streaks off walls, is understanding what paint finish you are tackling. In bathrooms, if you have used non-bathroom or non-wipeable paint, it will be hard to not remove some colour from your walls.

it also depends on how fresh your paint is warns Andy Simms. "If cleaning newly painted walls, it’s important to wait until the paint has completely cured," he advises. "This can take up to a week, to prevent smudging or peeling."

But, assuming you have used the correct paint, cleaning isn't too complicated a job.

"When removing any stains from painted walls, always start with the gentlest method," advises Georgina Shepherd, cleaning expert at Housekeep.com.

"For water marks, a little warm water mixed with mild dish soap on a microfibre cloth works pretty well. The trick is to keep the cloth damp, not soaked, and to avoid scrubbing too hard. After cleaning, dry the area immediately with a clean cloth."

Try this pack of Aieda microfibre cloths from Amazon for cleaning water streaks off walls. They come in different colours to help you separate them into dirty and clean cloths.

"If the water marks aren’t budging, a diluted vinegar solution (half water, half white vinegar) is very effective," she adds, "but I'd recommend testing it in a discreet area first, because vinegar can dull certain matte or flat finishes. Also, apply it with a cloth rather than spraying the wall directly for better control of how much solution is applied."

You could also try a Magic Eraser from Amazon to remove water marks from walls, says Georgina but err on the side of caution.

"These cleaners are micro-abrasive, so while they work well on satin or semi-gloss paint but can damage matte finishes by leaving shiny patches."

One final word of warning from Andy Simms? "It’s also recommended that you don’t just simply paint over the stains, as this won’t solve the problem, instead only trapping the oily residue of the streaks and causing them to worsen over time.”

If however you have water streaks on your walls despite using the right paint and the correct levels of home ventilation, do make sure you discount any serious problems such as a leaking roofs which could lead to more expensive roof leak repair costs.

Also ensure you give your loft insulation a good inspection, to check there isn't an issue with loft condensation tracking into the room where you've discovered water streaks on your walls.

Adding coving is a clever, subtle, and straightforward way to add character to a room. It softens the harsh straight edges where a wall meets the ceiling and introduces curves, depth, and definition.

It also comes in a variety of styles and finishes. You can choose a simple, classic curved shape for modern homes, or add more decorative detail to evoke the charm of a period property.

The beauty of coving is that it can fit almost anywhere in the home, and it can enhance different types of ceilings and rooms. Whether it's to complete a formal dining room or enhance your living room, the best part is, with the help of this guide, you can even do it yourself.

Tools to install coving

As with any DIY project, you need the right tools to achieve the best finish. To install coving, you'll need a few basic tools that most DIY enthusiasts already have, as well as a few you might not.

• Measuring tape
• Mitre box – like this Clamping Mitre Box (with saw) from Amazon
• Fine tooth saw – try this Irwin XP3055-300 Jack Tenon Saw from Amazon
• Spirit level
• Caulking gun – try the Volden heavy-duty sealant gun from B&Q
• Adhesive - such as Everbuild EVBCOVE 310 ml Coving Adhesive from Amazon
• Scraper
• Filler
• Mitre saw (optional) - try the Makita 216mm Slide Compound Saw from Amazon

How to install coving

The good news is, learning how to install coving won't take too long. There are just three steps from start to finish.

1. Measure up

“To start, measure the perimeter of your room using a tape measure to identify the length of every wall,” advises Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb. This is important for accurate cuts. Now check the manufacturer's instructions to see how far the coving edges should be fixed from the wall.

Paul Kerr, building expert at Beatsons Building Supplies agrees, adding, "don't forget to buy an extra 10% of coving on top of this measurement for cutting or mistakes.”

Next, “mark this measurement regularly along the wall using a tape measure and pencil," says Mark. "Then join these marks together with a spirit level in order to create a guide for installing your coving around the room."

2. Cut coving

For the cutting process, “first, take a pencil and mark out the length of the coving for each wall on the underside of the coving, making sure to be precise,” says Mark Irving.

Then, start cutting. “Place your coving on your workbench in a mitre box and use a fine-tooth saw to cut the coving at a 45-degree angle.”

3. Install coving

Don’t dive straight in with installation, warns Mark Irving. "Instead, first hold your coving up against the wall to check that it’s a good fit. Then wipe the area with a damp cloth to remove any dust or debris.”

The next step is to add adhesive and install the coving.

“Take your caulking gun and apply a generous line of adhesive to the top and bottom edge of your coving and firmly press it into position on the wall,” says Mark.

His top tip for ensuring it stays in place? “Whilst it’s drying, you can hammer some pins under the coving at 600mm intervals, and remove them when the adhesive has dried.”

The final step before painting is to fill any gaps with a suitable filler. Make sure to remove any excess, then wipe with a damp cloth to achieve a smooth finish.

Types of coving

Coving comes in a variety of materials and styles, each with its own pros and cons.

“There are four main types of coving," shares Paul Kerr. "Polystyrene, polyurethane, MDF/wood, and plaster."

Here we take a look at the different options and what they offer.

Polystyrene coving

Polystyrene coving is typically the most affordable option and easy to install, but it’s not perfect, says Mark Irving. “It’s easy to install due to its lightweight nature. However, its lightweight nature means it’s not as long-lasting or durable as other types of coving.

“It can also dent more than other materials and typically isn't as aesthetically pleasing as other options," he adds.

Polyurethane coving

Polyurethane coving is made from a polymer, which is essentially a type of plastic.

“Polyurethane coving is a more mid-range option that offers good durability and high moisture resistance," says Paul Kerr. "However, polyurethane coving is still less durable than plaster coving.”

In terms of price, it will be around twice the price of polystyrene coving.

Plaster coving

Plaster coving is the traditional material commonly associated with coving and cornices, and is more likely to be the best choice when renovating a house.

“Plaster is the most durable and typically comes in more ornate designs, yet is the heaviest and usually is best left to a professional to fit," advises Paul Kerr.

However, "plaster coving is highly durable and strong, so once it’s installed, it can last for decades with minimal maintenance," adds Mark Irving.

MDF/wood coving

This is less commonly used for coving, although, “MDF or wood is good for basic square edge designs, and is usually the best to paint over,” says Paul Kerr. "But it's not as durable as other options, he continues, "and can bow or bend if exposed to moisture.”

If you do choose this option, make sure you understand how to paint MDF so that you don't end up with problems once the coving is installed.

Try these coving options to decorate your home

Costs to install coving

If you don’t have the time, tools or skills to install coving, you can call in a professional, but the price for this may vary.

“The cost of installing coving can vary based on the material of the coving, the size of the room and your regional location,” explains Mark Irving.

However, as a general guideline, “to install standard coving you can expect to pay around £150 to £300 per day," says Mark. "But, to install more expensive and intricate styles of coving in a larger room, you can expect to pay as much as £800 per day”.

For a more precise figure, “you can expect labourers to charge around £6 - £12/m installed, so for a 5 x 5m room can expect a cost of around £400 - £500 when fitting a plaster coving,” says Paul Kerr.

If installing coving yourself, you can expect to pay around £2 - £3/m for basic polystyrene coving. Polyurethane coving prices start at around £5 - £6/m for plain styling, while more decorative styles can cost £10 - £25/m.

Plain plaster coving can be bought for as little as £4/m, but for traditional decorative styles, expect to pay at least £10/m. Shop around to find special offers and deals.

Can I install coving myself?

A competent DIYer can install coving, but will need the right tools to ensure a good finish.

“Installing coving is a fairly straightforward process that requires accurately cutting the coving to size, applying adhesive, pressing the coving into place and completing the look by sanding and painting the coving," agrees Mark Irving.

But, you might need more than one person for the job advises Paul Kerr.

“Heavy plaster-based coving usually requires more than one set of hands, but there are a variety of lightweight options that are very DIY friendly, easy to cut and glue down.”

FAQs

What is the difference between coving and cornices?

Cornice and coving perform the same function and are often used interchangeably.

But, to try end explain the difference, “a cornice is a general term used to describe a moulding that conceals the joint between a ceiling and wall,” says Mark Irving

"It is also usually only available in plaster format and is more for aesthetic purposes," adds Paul Kerr, "with more variation on decoration and design.” It's something you're more likely to come across when renovating a Georgian house, for example.

"Coving on the other hand can be described is a type of cornice that has a more plain design, typically in a standard C-shape,” shares Mark.

What colour should coving be painted?

Colour is subjective, but white is a popular choice for trim in a room, and it's a popular choice for coving too.

“White or a variation of white is the most common colour for coving," confirms Mark Irving. "Typically it's painted white to blend with ceilings for a more timeless look, and can also create a contrast between the wall colour, to highlight the architecture of the room

“However, you can paint yours any colour you like," he adds. "For example, if your ceiling is being painted, it makes sense to pair the coving collaboratively. Or, in a small room, it can be beneficial to paint your coving the same colour as your walls to elongate the room's height.” Techniques such as colour drenching, a popular paint trend, and colour capping are all ways in which coving can be integrated into your overall interior design ideas.

Alongside colour, it's also a smart idea to consider the type of paint you use, says Mark. “Matt paint finishes are beneficial for coving, as they helps hide imperfections, unlike high-gloss finishes.”

An alternative is a mid-sheen finish, or a vinyl matt paint. “A satin finish can provide a sleek appearance and be helpful in improving durability," notes Mark.

If you're adding coving and cornices, make sure you also think about how else you can elevate a room. You may consider looking at the different types of skirting available and using a similar profile to marry up the junctions between floor, ceiling and walls.

Alternatively, in the same way as LED skirting board has proved popular in contemporary homes, consider whether LED coving could add a final flourish to your lighting design and bring a new dimension to your ceilings.

The first time you encounter salt banding on a damp wall, it’s easy to mistake it for mould – and in fairness, mould often follows soon after if the issue isn’t addressed. But salt banding is actually the result of salts being drawn up through the wall and deposited in a neat, horizontal line as the moisture evaporates.

It's a common side-effect of rising damp and one that tends to linger long after the original moisture issue has supposedly been fixed. What makes salt banding particularly frustrating is that it behaves differently from ordinary damp patches or mould. The surface might look sound but still feel damp to the touch, and any attempt to redecorate usually ends in bubbling paint or plaster that won’t quite settle.

Below, we break down what salt banding actually is, why it forms, how to tell it apart from other types of damp damage, and the correct way to use a salt neutraliser so the problem doesn’t return.

What is salt banding on a damp wall?

Salt banding is the horizontal line that appears on a wall affected by rising damp, created as moisture draws salts up through the masonry. Jess Thomas, managing director of Drainage Central, explains that it’s “the visible line that indicates how high rising damp has reached,” formed by salts accumulating in the wall fabric. These salts remain active and continue to absorb moisture, keeping the surface damp even after the original problem is fixed.

Barrie Francis, damp and timber specialist at Timberwise adds that this band is caused by hygroscopic salts – mainly chlorides and nitrates – which are left behind as the wall dries out. These salts pull moisture from the air, so the wall may always appear damp at the same height. In some cases, they can absorb enough moisture to dissolve into a liquid, known as deliquescence.

This is distinct from efflorescent salts, which Barrie describes as the small, white crystals commonly seen on drying masonry. These are not usually hygroscopic and can often be brushed away, whereas salt banding requires targeted treatment.

What causes salt banding on a damp wall?

According to Jess Thomas, salt banding typically happens when a damp proof course (DPCs) is damaged or missing, allowing ground moisture to travel freely through the masonry. As the wall dries, the salts naturally concentrate at the point where the moisture stops, which is why the band appears in a clean, horizontal line.

Barrie Francis explains that this is the “peak of the capillary rise,” and it’s here that salts settle during the drying process. Their presence becomes obvious when they begin absorbing moisture from the air, creating a persistent damp-looking strip on the surface.

In essence, the cause is twofold: unwanted moisture rising through the wall, and the salts left behind as that moisture evaporates.

How to tell salt banding apart from mould or damp staining

Salt banding has a few clear markers that set it apart from other types of damp damage. Jess Thomas notes that it appears as “a visible band or line of discolouration,” usually close to ground level or around areas where moisture has seeped in. The surface may still feel damp, but the paint often remains intact – unlike many types of mould, which tend to disrupt the finish and spread in uneven clusters.

Mould shows up as irregular spots rather than a straight, horizontal line, and is typically linked to poor ventilation and high humidity. Damp staining, meanwhile, is any water-related mark that disappears once the underlying moisture issue has been sorted.

If the line appears consistent, low on the wall, and sometimes slightly powdery or fluffy, it’s far more likely to be salt banding than mould or basic staining, and it won’t clear without targeted treatment.

Should you treat salt banding before decorating or replastering?

Treating salts before you attempt any decorating or replastering is essential, as they can prevent new finishes from bonding properly. Jess Thomas explains that if salts remain active in the wall, “fresh paint will blister, crack, peel or flake as the salt pushes it from the wall.” Because these salts continue to absorb moisture from the air, the surface never truly dries, leaving paint and plaster struggling to stabilise.

Barrie Francis cautions that the existing plaster often needs to be removed altogether, and he recommends stripping it back “300mm beyond the last visible signs of dampness,” as hygroscopic salts can sit deeper within the building fabric and reappear even after surface treatments. Skipping this step usually results in the same damage returning, which is why proper salt treatment is just as important as addressing the cause of damp.

How to use salt neutraliser on salt banding

Salt neutraliser is a specialist chemical treatment designed to react with the salts in your wall and stop them drawing in moisture. As Jess Thomas explains, it “penetrates into the wall and reacts with the salts to neutralise them,” and can also help form a barrier against future salt banding on the same surface.

Used correctly, it creates a more stable base for plaster or paint. Here’s how to apply it properly:

1. Prepare the wall

• Brush away any loose, fluffy or powdery salt deposits.
• Remove any flaking paint or obviously loose plaster.
• Soak the affected area with clean water so the neutraliser can penetrate more evenly.

2. Protect yourself and the space

• Neutraliser can cause burns if mishandled, so wear gloves, eye protection and suitable clothing.
• Make sure the room is well ventilated and cover floors and nearby finishes with dust sheets or plastic.

3. Test a discreet area first

• Test the salt neutraliser by applying it to a small, inconspicuous patch.
• Allow it to react fully and check for any unexpected discolouration or surface change before committing to the whole wall.

4. Apply the salt neutraliser

• Follow the product instructions for dilution and coverage, then use a brush to work it evenly into the surface.
• Don’t be alarmed if you see some frothing. This is normal and simply indicates the neutraliser reacting with the salts.

5. Allow time for it to work

• Leave the neutraliser on the wall for the full period recommended by the manufacturer.
• Avoid cutting this time short, as incomplete neutralisation can allow salts to remain active and potentially reappear down the line.

6. Wash down the surface and let the wall dry fully

• Once the reaction time has passed, wash the treated area with clean water to remove any residue.
• Do not paint, skim or replaster until the wall has completely dried.
• Use gentle ventilation and background heating rather than trying to force-dry the surface.

When won't salt neutralisers work?

Salt neutraliser is not a cure-all, particularly where rising damp has been at play for a long time. Barrie Francis stresses that in these cases, the plaster itself is often contaminated with hygroscopic salts and the plaster should be removed altogether.

In severe or long-standing cases of salt banding, especially on walls with a failed or missing damp proof course, you may be looking at:

• Installation or repair of a damp proof course (often via chemical injection).
• Full removal of salt-contaminated plaster to the recommended height.
• Replastering with a suitable damp-resistant specification, potentially alongside the use of a salt neutraliser.

In other words, salt neutraliser works best as part of a wider damp remediation strategy, not as a shortcut in place of fixing the underlying moisture source and replacing heavily contaminated plaster.

Essential products for combatting damp and salt banding

FAQs

Is salt banding always a sign of rising damp?

Not always, but it’s one of the most common causes. Salt banding usually indicates that moisture has travelled up through the wall, bringing salts with it. If you’re unsure whether rising damp is still active, a specialist can carry out moisture and salt testing to confirm and provide advice on how to treat damp in a specific area.

How long does salt neutraliser take to work?

This depends on the specific product, but most require a set reaction period, which is usually a few hours. It’s important to leave it undisturbed for the full time recommended on the packaging so the neutralising process can complete properly.

Can I paint straight over an area treated with salt neutraliser?

No. The wall must be washed down after treatment and allowed to dry completely before you apply paint, plaster or skim coat. Decorating too soon can trap moisture and cause the same problems to reappear.

Will salt banding come back after treatment?

If the underlying moisture issue has been fixed and the salts have been neutralised or removed, the band shouldn’t return. However, if the damp proof course is still compromised, or if salt-contaminated plaster hasn’t been removed where necessary, you may see persistent patches.

Is salt banding harmful?

The salts themselves aren’t harmful, but the damp conditions they create can lead to structural issues, damage to your paintwork, and eventually mould growth if the wall never dries properly. Treating the salts is always recommended if you want to prevent further damage to your home.

For lighter surface issues or general condensation on walls, simple tools like the best dehumidifiers can make a real difference. When in doubt, don't be afraid to contact a damp specialist, as this may prevent more serious, structural damage to your home later on.

With textured wall finishes on the rise, more and more people are wondering how to limewash their walls – and whether it’s really possible to achieve a professional look by doing it yourself.

While it does require a fair amount of prep to avoid streakiness and around four coats to achieve full coverage, the good news is that limewash paint is relatively easy to apply and can produce fantastic results.

To learn how to limewash your walls, follow our experts’ step-by-step guide below. It covers everything you need to get started – including the best products, how to prep, and whether you can create a similar effect using regular emulsion paint.

How to limewash walls (traditional method)

Traditional limewash is a breathable eco paint made from slaked lime and water, and it has a purposely uneven, tonal finish. Here's how to apply it, according to Samantha-Jane Agbontaen, Interior Designer & Founder of House Designer:

1. Prepare the surface
   The key to limewash is breathability. The wall should be clean, matt, and free of synthetic coatings such as vinyl or acrylic paint. Limewash bonds best to porous materials like plaster, brick, or lime render. For new plaster, allow it to cure fully, then lightly dampen the surface with clean water before applying.
   
2. Mix the limewash
   Use matured lime putty and dilute it with clean water in roughly one part lime to two parts water. Stir until it has a smooth, milk-like consistency. For better durability, especially in high-traffic areas, you can add a little casein (a natural milk protein binder).
   
3. Apply the first coat
   Use a wide, natural bristle brush and apply in irregular, cross-hatched strokes rather than straight lines. The beauty of limewash lies in its movement and variation. The first coat will look uneven, which is completely normal. Allow it to dry for 24 hours in a well-ventilated space.
   
4. Build the layers
   Apply two or three thin coats, allowing each one to dry completely before the next. You can adjust the water ratio depending on how soft or opaque you want the finish to be. To add depth, natural pigments can be mixed in, but always test a small section first, as limewash lightens as it dries.
   
5. Finishing and maintenance
   Once the final coat is dry, leave it untouched for a few days to allow the lime to carbonate fully. This creates the characteristic chalky patina that softens over time. Unlike paint, limewash doesn’t peel; it simply ages gracefully, which is part of its charm. For maintenance, brush off dust gently and refresh with another coat when needed.

Shop these limewash essentials

How to limewash walls (paint method)

If you want to achieve a limewash finish but don’t fancy the mess that comes with it, you can create a similar effect using emulsion paint. This is a great choice for walls that aren’t very porous and is more forgiving than putty if you make a mistake.

Victoria Yardley, Founder of Victory Colours, shows you how to do it:

1. Prepare your surface
   Remove debris, dirt and grease from your walls.
   
2. Choose two complementary tones
   One colour should be slightly lighter than the other one.
   
3. Paint your base coat
   Apply the darker of the two colours evenly and let it dry completely.
   
4. Apply your “limewash” layer
   Use a large brush, sponge, or soft cloth to lightly apply the lighter shade, working in irregular, criss-cross strokes. Don’t overwork it – the charm is in the variation.
   
5. Feather the edges
   While still slightly damp, gently blend with a clean, dry brush to soften transitions and add that dreamy, mottled texture.
   
6. Stand back and admire
   The result should look layered and natural, like sunlight playing across plaster.

Our favourite faux limewash picks

If you're planning to give traditional limewash a try, Ian Masonbury, Brand Director at Armourcoat warns, "Having a precise understanding of moisture levels, application thickness, surface porosity, and timing is essential. If any of these are overlooked, the finish will invariably end up being patchy and unstable.”

Before you get started, it's worth learning about the different types of paint and what they're used for. And if you're puzzled by the price gap between premium paints and their retail equivalents, we've also answered whether expensive paint is really worth it.

If you’re looking for the answer to what is insulated plasterboard you’re in the right place. In easy-to-understand terms, it’s a smart, dual-purpose material that combines plasterboard and insulation into one neat package. It's ideal for retrofits, renovations and conversions.

Once fitted, you can select any type of plaster to finish, ready for painting or wallpapering. Here, we briefly explore what it is, examine the science behind the insulation, discuss the different types, look at the popular choices, and identify which is the most cost-effective option.

What is insulated plasterboard?

The term insulated plasterboard (sometimes also called thermal plasterboard) refers to a specific type of plasterboard and insulation. Thomas Oldham, Co-founder of UK Construction Blog shares a brief explanation, “Insulated plasterboard is a combination of standard plasterboard with a layer of insulation bonded to the back.”

He adds, “It gives you a smooth, ready-to-finish surface while helping to keep your home warmer, all without losing much room space. It’s an excellent way to boost energy efficiency when you don’t have the depth for traditional insulation.”

Tom Hall, Category executive at Kingfisher Direct, points out, “It significantly reduces installation times and provides cost-saving benefits by preventing the separate installation of plasterboard and insulation.”

Try these insulated plasterboard options

The science behind the insulation

The integrated insulation layer in insulated plasterboard is where the magic happens, as Hall explains, “PIR insulation reduces the transfer of heat through a building's structure due to its closed-cell structure that creates a barrier preventing the movement of heat through the material.”

He adds, “The foam contains small interconnected cells that contain air or gas. This air serves as a thermal barrier, creating a resistance when heat tries to pass through the insulation”.

The same principle applies to EPS (Expanded Polystyrene) and phenolic foam. In simple terms, all three options keep the warmth in during colder months and the heat out during warmer months.

Oldham adds, “Phenolic foam tends to offer the best insulation for its thickness, while PIR and EPS strike a solid balance between cost and performance.”

Key benefits of insulated plasterboard

Whatever type of insulated plasterboard is being used, it offers many benefits, some more obvious than others.

Energy efficient

Oldham says, “From experience, the main benefits of insulated plasterboard are its practicality and efficiency. It makes a noticeable difference to indoor comfort and helps reduce heating bills.” It directly addresses heat loss through walls (up to 25%).

Hall reinforces the point, “Insulated plasterboard has higher thermal efficiency as it traps heat, which helps to keep your home warmer in the cold weather. This reduces the reliance on heating systems, lowering energy usage and the cost of bills”.

In addition, it will help eliminate drafts and cold spots.

Easier installation

Hall says, “Due to its two-in-one nature, it’s much easier to install than separate layers of plasterboard and insulation.” He adds, “Simplified installation makes it a much more cost-effective choice due to reduced labour costs, as well as lower material costs.”

Typically, you’ll only need screws and a drill to fix. Alternatively, a grab adhesive can be used for a quick and easy installation.

Space saver

The combination of plasterboard and insulation, or just insulation, can make it a real space-saving option. Hall says, “It eliminates the requirement for a separate layer of insulation, which can be highly beneficial in smaller properties where space is limited.”

Types of insulated plasterboard

PIR plasterboard

PIR (Polyisocyanurate) plasterboard is the insulated plasterboard commonly associated with the term. It boasts a rigid foam board that provides high thermal efficiency. This is typically bonded to the back of standard gypsum plasterboard.

This creates a thinner profile, often 37.5mm thick with board and foam. Some PIR boards are faced with foil to improve insulation and act as a vapour control barrier. Typically more expensive than other types, such as EPS.

EPS insulated plasterboard

Expanded Polystyrene plasterboard is similar to PIR plasterboard. Instead of a rigid foam backing, it uses an expanded polystyrene backing that is bonded to gypsum plasterboard. It’s a versatile product that is good for larger areas and is typically cheaper than PIR board.

Phenolic foam

Phenolic foam is a board made from a rigid, closed-cell insulation material. It has high thermal efficiency and typically features foil on both sides to protect the insulation from moisture. Unlike PIR and EPS, it is not bonded to gypsum plasterboard. It comes in various thicknesses and can be more expensive than PIR and EPS depending on the chosen thickness.

Moisture resistant boards

Insulated plasterboard and board include a foil backing to provide a vapour barrier, helping keep the insulation dry and combating moisture and condensation at the same time.

Applications of insulated plasterboard

Insulated plasterboard and its variants are versatile and can be used almost anywhere in a home. Oldham points out a few of its typical uses: “I recommend using insulated plasterboard on internal walls, ceilings, and loft conversions.”

He adds, “But it’s equally useful for garages, garden offices, or extensions that need better temperature control.”

However, depending on what type of insulated plasterboard you are using, it can be used elsewhere, as Hall shares, “It can be used to line external brick walls due to their poor insulating properties.” This makes it ideal for older properties or single-skim walls that lack good insulation.

Hall adds, “They can also be used internally to line floors, walls and ceilings. In particular, they are popular for lining walls and ceilings in loft conversions due to their thinner profile that helps to maximise space”.

Considerations for Installation

When installing insulated or thermal plasterboard, there are a few simple considerations to keep in mind.

Thickness of board

In simple terms, the thicker the insulation, the more efficient it will be. But this depends on the type of board being used. PIR board commonly uses 25mm insulation, while EPS and Phenolic foam board can be purchased in various depths from 25mm to 100mm.

The thicker the board, the more space it will take up in a room; this is especially important to note if indoors.

Cutting and installation

To cut plasterboard, you will need a long, straight edge and a sharp utility knife (like this Amazon Basics Durable Folding Utility Knife). Use this to score the board and finish with a saw. You can use a hand saw or a jigsaw (like this Bosch Home and Garden Jigsaw from Amazon) to cut the board and the insulation.

Installation depends on the surface it is being attached to. The dot-and-dab method or a suitable adhesive are common choices for block walls. If attaching to timber, use plasterboard screws.

Continuous vapour barrier

When using foil-backed or covered board, gaps between fitted boards will allow moisture to seep in. To stop this happening, you will need to use an insulation seam tape like this Gladiator Aluminium Tape from Amazon.

The beauty of insulating plasterboard is that you can finish putting it up in double quick time. Once installed, it’s time for the next steps. Find out how long it takes t plaster a room, before you think about painting new plaster and choosing the right wallpaper tools to finish a room.

Roll-on plaster for walls has become a popular choice for DIYers and professionals seeking a faster way to achieve a smooth, even finish.

While it can save time and reduce mess compared with traditional skimming, it is not suitable for every wall or condition.

Knowing when it works well, and the common mistakes that can lead to poor adhesion, uneven surfaces, or ruined finishes, is essential before starting to plaster walls.

What is roll-on plaster?

Roll-on plaster is a type of wall coating that comes pre-mixed and ready to use.

It is applied directly to walls with a roller, similar to painting, rather than using a trowel like traditional plaster.

Depending on how it is applied, it can create smooth, textured, or patterned finishes, giving walls a finished look in a single layer.

Best roll-on plasters

When to use roll-on plaster for walls

Roll-on plaster for walls works best on large, flat surfaces where a smooth finish is required. It is particularly useful in living rooms, bedrooms, and other interior spaces where aesthetics matter.

Professional decorator Mike Cupit, who has over 20 years of experience, explains: "Using roll-on filler to skim a wall is quick, easy, and gives a great result. It's a lot cheaper than hiring a plasterer, and you’ll have a full room skimmed in no time."

Roll-on plaster for walls is also ideal for covering textured surfaces such as Artex, providing a uniform, modern finish.

Shop plaster rollers

When not to use roll-on plaster for walls

Despite its advantages, roll-on plaster for walls is not suitable for every situation. Avoid using it on:

• Surfaces with structural issues, such as deep cracks or loose plaster.
• Areas with high moisture levels, including bathrooms or kitchens, where the plaster may not adhere properly or could deteriorate.

Architect and TV presenter Charlie Luxton advises: "Before applying any plaster, you need to make sure the walls are dry, stable, and free from structural defects. Roll-on plaster is fantastic for interiors, but moisture-prone rooms can compromise the finish."

Using roll-on plaster on unsuitable surfaces can increase the cost when plastering a wall.

Tips when using roll-on plaster for walls

Charlie Luxton and other UK decorating professionals emphasise preparation and the right tools:

• Preparation is key: Clean and sand walls thoroughly to remove dust and debris for proper adhesion.
• Use the right tools: A quality filling blade and roller help spread the plaster evenly.
• Control the environment: Keep room temperature consistent and avoid high humidity during application and drying.
• Finishing touches: Lightly sand the surface once dry to remove imperfections before painting.

Luxton adds: “For minor cracks and chips, I always recommend a roll-on plaster - it’s applied with a roller to smooth the wall.”

Mike Cupit adds: "For the best finish, I recommend a Prep Alu Flex Skimming Blade and sealing the surface with Zinsser Gardz before painting to prevent dusting and ensure better paint adhesion."

FAQs

Q: Can I use roll-on plaster in bathrooms?
A: No. High humidity can compromise adhesion and durability.

Q: How long does roll-on plaster take to dry?
A: Typically 8 hours, but this can vary depending on room temperature and humidity.

Q: Can I paint directly over roll-on plaster for walls?
A: Yes, after drying and light sanding, apply a mist coat before your chosen paint.

Roll-on plaster for walls provides a practical and efficient way to achieve smooth, professional-looking walls without hiring a plasterer.

By following verified expert advice and understanding where and when to use it, you can transform your home interiors with minimal effort.

Always check wall conditions and the specific needs of each room before starting to ensure flawless results.

No one wants wonky tiles and raised edges spoiling a beautiful-looking bathroom or kitchen wall. To prevent this, you need to start from the right place. Here, we examine a selection of smart solutions for tiling an uneven wall, some of which are quicker, simpler, and less expensive than others.

The current state of the wall being tiled will have a significant impact on how to tile a wall. Small imperfections can be easily remedied with preparation and a little extra adhesive. Bigger issues will need the intervention of some specialist DIY skills and extra materials and tools.

Assess tiling an uneven wall

There are different degrees of unevenness when it comes to walls; some are easier to deal with than others. The first step is to assess the unevenness of a wall.

This will determine what course of action needs to be taken. Still, as a general rule, it is not recommended to tile an uneven wall without the correct preparation, as Adam O’Malley, Operations Manager at Tile Mountain, shares, “According to BS EN 5385 Part 1:2018, the recognised code of practice for tiling, ‘The surface should be true such that, when checked with a 2m straightedge with 3mm thick feet at each end, the straightedge should not be obstructed by the background and no gap should be greater than 6mm.’

He adds, “If gaps exceed 3mm, local correction is required. That means any wall surface must be sufficiently flat, stable and upright before tiling can begin.”

Try these tools when tiling an uneven wall

Prepping an uneven wall

If the unevenness is only slightly off (and sits within the 6mm recommendation), you need to do some simple preparation before tiling. O’Malley recommends the following: “Check for loose plaster, flaky paint or any areas that need filling or repair. Scrape away any unstable material and ensure the wall is clean, dust-free and primed before progressing.”

Use a wall primer, like this Zinsser Gardz High Performance Sealer from Amazon to help seal walls and any patched areas.

Two ways to get a wall even

How you even up an uneven wall will depend on how uneven the wall is. Here, we examine two popular methods: one for slightly uneven walls and another for more challenging walls.

1. Skim the wall

If the variation in a wall is around 3-6mm, you can fill larger dips and finish with a skim coat of plaster as O’Malley shares, “A fresh skim coat provides a flat, secure base for tiling. However, whether to skim or fully replaster depends on the condition of the existing surface. If the backing plaster is sound, a skim may be sufficient. But if it’s crumbling or unstable, a full replaster might be the better option.”

It's worth noting that when plastering walls, the typical plaster depth of a skim coat is 1-2mm, so you may need to add a second skim coat to build up the plaster and achieve a more even finish.

2. Add plasterboard

If you have an uneven wall that exceeds the recommended 6mm, a quick and simple way to create a flat, even surface is to introduce plasterboard, shares O’Malley. “Dot and dab plasterboard is a popular solution for creating a level surface over uneven walls, but only if the original plaster is secure enough to support both the boards and the tiles. Done properly, it offers a fast and effective way to create a smooth surface for tiling.”

Once the plasterboard has been dried into place, you need to know how to skim a plasterboard wall to get the smooth finish you’ll need.

Where and how to start tiling

Before you start any tiling, ensure that your preparation is complete. O’Malley says, “Preparation is key. In addition to ensuring the wall is flat and primed, starting from a straight and level baseline is essential.”

When tiling a wall you need to pick the right start point, O’Malley says, “For best results, start from the centre or a prominent visual point and work outwards, making small adjustments as needed to maintain alignment.”

Small amounts of unevenness when adding tiles to a wall can be corrected with the smart use of tile adhesive. O’Malley explains, “Tiles should be fixed into a solid bed of adhesive and back buttering the tiles (applying adhesive directly to the tile as well as the wall) can help achieve full contact.”

He adds, “While the recommended adhesive bed is 3mm, the standard allows this to be built up to 6mm in isolated areas, but only as a minor correction, not a substitute for properly preparing the wall.”

FAQs

Is it better to use small or large tiles on an uneven wall?

Ideally, you want to get a wall as flat and level as possible to ensure you have a decent surface to tile. However, if you have an uneven wall, you can use almost any type or size of tile, but some work better than others. As O’Malley explains, “As long as the wall is properly prepared, either small or large tiles can be used.”

He continues, “That said, larger tiles tend to highlight surface irregularities more readily, so thorough preparation is even more critical.” He adds, “On the other hand, small-format tiles or mosaics are more forgiving on less-than-perfect surfaces.”

Can you tile over tiles?

Can you tile over tiles? This is a common question, and the simple answer is yes. In most cases, it's simply a matter of ensuring that the old tiles are level, free from dirt, debris, and grease, and securely in place. Before adding new tiles on top of old tiles, wash them down with a sugar soap solution.

However, if you have any loose tiles, fix them first, and ensure that any old, mouldy, or loose sealant is removed and the area is thoroughly cleaned. You will be adding a significant amount of extra weight, so you need to consider whether the substrate can handle it.

Typically, standard-sized tiles should be sufficient, while larger tiles may pose a problem. Check with a professional. Finally, you’ll be doubling the depth of the tile. Therefore, ensure that the extra depth doesn’t affect areas such as the top of a half-tile wall or skirting boards.

What size notched trowel do I need for wall tiles?

Notched trowels with 6mm or 8mm notches are the popular choice for standard-sized tiles. This spreads the tile adhesive to the right depth and leaves the right air gaps. For larger tiles, you will need larger notches to ensure you get the right level of adhesion. Typically, notches measuring 10-12mm are the preferred choice.

If you’re looking to tile a wall make sure to check out our bathroom tiling ideas and wet room ideas for insight and inspiration. And, don’t forget our practical How to fit tile trim to ensure you get clean neat looking edges where needed.

Knowing how to hang patterned wallpaper isn’t as difficult as you might think, but there are some subtle differences compared with non-patterned wallpaper. It depends very much on the pattern itself. A standard matching pattern is a much simpler paper hanging exercise than wallpaper with a staggered pattern.

You‘ll still need to know how to wallpaper, but how you hang a staggered pattern is the key. First, you’ll need more wallpaper to match the pattern. So don’t sell yourself short when buying wallpaper. Then it's all about preparation and patience. Embrace these, and you'll be well on your way to a professional-looking finish.

How to hang patterned wallpaper: Where do you start?

There’s plenty of debate on where to start hanging patterned wallpaper, but it largely depends on the pattern – is it big and bold or small and subtle? Eric Bramlett, Owner of Bramlett Real Estate says, “The goal is to align the pattern in a way that feels natural and seamless.”

To do this, Bramlett says, ”It’s best to start in a corner or along the most visible wall, where any potential mismatch in the pattern will be less noticeable.” But he adds, “If the wallpaper features a bold pattern, you might want to begin with a central area to create a more even, symmetrical look across the room.”

A point that Thomas Oldham, co-founder of UK Construction Blog reinforces, “Start from the centre of the wall, not from a corner. This ensures the pattern is balanced across the space and prevents a narrow, awkward-looking strip at one end.”

He adds, “Measure and mark the centre of the wall first. Then, measure the width of your wallpaper roll and work outward from the centre, both to the left and right. This way, you can calculate how many drops you need and make sure the finish is symmetrical.”

After deciding on your start point, removing wallpaper is the next step, if you still have wallpaper on the walls.

Should I use a straight match or drop match?

How you hang patterned wallpaper will depend on the design. Simpler designs typically follow a straight match, making them easier to install. A drop match requires a bit more manoeuvring for proper pattern alignment.

Bramlett points out that a straight match involves less work: “A straight match is easier – it lines up evenly from left to right across all strips.” Oldham adds, “The top of every wallpaper panel will line up identically at the ceiling.”

A drop match is a little more complex to deal with, as Bramlett points out, “The pattern repeats in a staggered vertical sequence. It takes more planning, and usually, a bit more wallpaper to get it right.” He adds, “But the payoff can be big – it often creates a more dynamic look.”

Oldham offers a quick tip for a drop match: “For drop match designs, it’s a good idea to pre-cut panels from two rolls side by side to reduce waste and help with smoother alignment.”

Try these tools when hanging patterned wallpaper

Steps to hang patterned wallpaper

Hanging patterned wallpaper follows closely in the path of standard wallpaper, but with a few subtle differences. Here we take a look at the steps you need to follow.

1. Mark start point

Before you start make sure that the walls are smooth and clean. Oldham suggests that you don’t wallpaper over wallpaper, especially if using a patterned wallpaper. To start he says, “Mark the centre of the wall. Use a spirit level to draw a vertical guideline for your first strip. Next, measure your wall space and check the wallpaper label for the correct type and pattern match details before cutting.”

2. Measure and cut

Measure up and leave around 30mm extra top and bottom. This will be more if drop matching. Oldham says, “For measuring and cutting, measure and pre-cut your strips, especially for drop match patterns, using decorator scissors.”

3. Paste, put up and trim

Next, apply your paste. Oldham says, “Make sure you cover the edges thoroughly to avoid any lifting later on. Then, line up your first strip carefully along the central guideline. For pattern matches, always double-check the alignment before pressing the strip down.” Bramlett suggests, “Lay the wallpaper out on the floor if you need to. It’s much easier to adjust on the ground than when you're halfway up a ladder.”

He adds, “Use a smoothing tool to press it down and remove bubbles in wallpaper.” The next step is to trim the top and bottom against the ceiling and skirting boards. Bramlett says, “Use a sharp blade for a clean finish.” To help get a clean cut, use a tool like this ProDec 12" Vinyl Smoother from Amazon to help guide the knife.

Oldham says, “When you reach the corners, cut a square chunk at the corner to act as a guide for how much needs to be removed along the top and side edges.”

Check out our 'How to dispose of wallpaper paste' guide to ensure you dispose of it responsibly after you've finished wallpapering.

4 DIY tips to ensure excellent alignment and finish

1. Plan for waste

Oldham says, “Drop match patterns often require more wallpaper, so it’s always a good idea to round up your order to avoid running out halfway through.” Typically, it's recommended to add 10 percent on top of what you need. For patterned wallpaper add an extra 20-30 percent to compensate for the pattern.

2. Measure twice (or more)

Measuring more than once means fewer errors. Oldham says, “Make sure to measure your space properly.” This will help ensure you calculate how many rolls you’ll need. And, don't forget about the pattern repeat. Use an online calculator like this wallpaper calculator from Wallpaper Direct.

3. Read the label

It may seem obvious, but Oldhan says, “Always read the wallpaper label for guidance on the type of paper, paste method, and pattern repeat.”

4. Say goodbye to bubbles

Ideally, you want to remove bubbles in wallpaper before the paste dries. However, Oldham offers an option if you miss them. “If you notice any bubbles after the wallpaper dries, simply cut the bubble open, apply paste underneath, and smooth it back down.”

When hanging patterned wallpaper, make sure you have the right wallpaper tools. If stuck for wallpaper suggestions, try our Bathroom wallpaper ideas and Wallpaper in a kitchen guides for extra inspiration.

If you’ve drilled a spotlight hole in the wrong location, you‘ll need to follow this guide on how to repair a hole in a ceiling. Here we discuss how to quickly address ceiling holes that cannot be repaired with just a little bit of filler.

Repairing old ceilings – and new ones – involves using the right tools and kit to ensure that it stays looking good for longer. Some quick fixes simply won’t cut it. They may look good when you finish, but it won’t be long before they need repairing again. Follow the pro tips in this guide and your ceilings will look like new for years to come.

Options to repair a hole in a ceiling

There is no one-size-fits-all solution for repairing a hole in a ceiling. How you fix it will depend on various factors, such as depth, size, and extent of damage. Kevin Keen, owner of Keen's Buildings, says, “Ceiling holes, especially those resulting from water damage or electrical work like removed spotlights, are common in residential structures.”

For smaller to medium holes, Keen says, “For anything under 50mm, you can usually get away with a strong filler.” But be aware, Keen continues, “Anything over 50mm, you're pushing it. Fillers don’t hold well long-term if they’re applied thick.” He adds, “The most common mistake I see is people trying to patch something the size of a softball (around 90-100mm) with filler, and it starts cracking or sagging in no time.”

Tom Hall, category executive at Kingfisher Direct, suggests, “You can use a drywall patch, made from mesh joint tape and joint compound.” This will give a strong finish for smaller holes and blend well with the current ceiling.

For larger holes, Hall continues, you will need additional support: “For larger holes, it will require the use of wooden cleats to provide structural support, before finishing with jointing compound.”

In some cases, i.e. holes larger than 100mm, new plasterboard is a much better and quicker option. Hall says, “You can cut out the plasterboard around the hole and replace it with a new section of plasterboard, before covering with joint compound.” He adds, “This typically works better for larger holes to provide more stability.”

Try these to help repair a hole in a ceiling

Tools to repair a hole in a ceiling

What you need to repair a hole in the ceiling depends on the size and depth, but the following are essential:

• Ladder - like this Werner Fibreglass Swingback Stepladder from Amazon
• A filling/putty knife
• Utility knife - like this Amazon Basics Durable Folding Utility Knife
• Joint tape
• Joint compound

If filling a larger hole, it's most likely that you will need the following as well:

• Plasterboard
• Drywall saw - like this 6-Inch Jab Saw for Drywall from Amazon
• Plasterboard screws
• Screwdriver or drill

To finish the job and hide the hole, you’ll need a few extras:

• Sandpaper
• Paint brush/roller - like this Harris Seriously Good Walls & Ceilings Twin Medium Pile Paint Roller Set from Amazon
• Paint (match up with current paint i.e. emulsion)

Tips to repair a hole in a ceiling

If filling a small hole, you should only need filler, as Hall explains, “Start by assessing the hole in your ceiling, if it’s smaller than 50mm in width and depth, then it can simply be filled using a wall filler and putty knife.” He adds, “After 24 hours, the wall filler should have dried and you can sand down the edges and paint over the area for a seamless finish.”

For larger holes - anything bigger than 50mm - the quick and easy option is to cut out and replace the plasterboard. Hall says, “Start by using a drywall saw to cut a clean rectangular shape around the hole. Then, place wooden cleats across the inside of the hole and attach them using plasterboard screws, this will provide a secure backing for the new section of plasterboard.”

Next, measure up the hole and cut a piece of plasterboard to fit the hole. Halls says, “Place the plasterboard into the hole and fix it to the wooden cleats by drilling in more drywall screws.”

To finish, he adds, “Take your joint tape and apply it around the edges of the plasterboard, making sure that it’s as smooth as possible.” The next step is to use a filling knife to apply joint compound across the plasterboard.

Hall adds, “Make sure to smooth it out at the edges for a seamless finish. Apply multiple thin layers of jointing compound and once dry, use sandpaper to sand the surface, finishing with a fresh coat of paint”.

Hall adds one final tip: “If your ceiling is textured, you will have to finish by using a textured spray to ensure that it seamlessly blends with the rest of the ceiling.”

FAQs

Can you use joint tape to patch holes?

Joint tape, like this Fibreglass Plasterboard Repair & Jointing Tape from Wickes, is a great option for adding support to smaller ceiling holes, and it's easy to use, as Hall shares, “Joint tape is self-adhesive, which allows easy and quick application.”

He adds, “If the hole is large, then you may need to use a section of plasterboard before using joint tape to provide added support.”

Can I use patching plaster to fill holes?

Patching plaster can be used to fill holes, small and large. Hall says, “Patching plaster is typically used for larger and deeper holes as it offers a more durable finish than regular wall filler”.

However, to fill large holes it will need to be layered to be fully effective. Keen says, “Use with mesh jointing tape and joint compound to get a much smoother and long-lasting result."

If your ceiling proves to be beyond repair, you’ll need to remove it and start again. Check out our how to plasterboard a ceiling guide to get a neat, clean finish. To finish the new ceiling, follow our how to paper a ceiling and painting a ceiling guides.

Deciding whether kitchen cabinets should go to the ceiling can be a crucial design element when planning a new kitchen. It can be a personal thing too, with some choosing to do so to achieve a tidy look for their cooking space while others might go without because it creates a larger feel to the room.

The decision can be a down to kitchen remodel trends as well. Kitchen wall units went out of style a few years ago, with designers encouraging open shelving. But the realities and practicalities of having concealed storage space is now making a comeback, with floor-to-ceiling cabinets also becoming popular..

Understandably, when something as important as the layout, style and functionality of a kitchen comes into play during, we want to get it 100% right the first time around. In this article, we look at kitchen cabinets height and whether or not they should ever go right up to the ceiling.

Are kitchen cabinets supposed to be full-height?

Whether kitchen cabinets should be full height is debatable. In the past, freestanding kitchens would have used large dresser units to store cookware and servingware and pantries for food stuffs. While these wouldn’t have necessarily touched the ceiling, they would take up a large amount of wallspace.

When fitted kitchens became the norm in UK households, wall units were far more popular set at eye level, or around 600mm - 730mm from the worktop. However, you will notice that even today, wall units don’t reach the ceiling. The kitchen units will have what is known as a cornice to provide a decorative flourish to the top of cabinets, with a gap left between the top of the cabinet and the ceiling.

“The appeal for more streamlined storage has continued to gain momentum over the last year,” explains Al Bruce, founder of Olive & Barr. “We are seeing a desire for a clutter-free kitchen, with crockery and utensils being neatly tucked behind cabinetry doors. Glass-fronted cabinetry is gaining in popularity, with homeowners increasingly choosing to store glassware and other items in this way. Open kitchen shelving still has its place but for more decorative items such as art and ornaments rather than kitchen crockery."

“The concealed kitchen is a nod to the recent trend of ‘back kitchens’ where the inner workings of the kitchen, dirty dishes and ‘messy’ items could be stored away out of sight," continues Al bruce. "As homeowners continue to spend more and more time in the kitchen, the need for the connection to be seamless with other living areas within the home continues and clutter-free is becoming the preferred choice.”

"This design [full-height units] allows for the organisation of kitchen essentials, with everyday items being easily accessible at lower levels and less-used items, such as baking tins and formal dinnerware, being stored higher up,” adds Molly Chandler, designer at Willis & Stone. “Floor-to-ceiling storage will also enhance the overall aesthetic of a kitchen, by creating a cohesive appearance which feels more open and less cluttered.”

When to fill the gap between cabinets and the kitchen ceiling?

“There is no right or wrong with floor-to-ceiling cabinetry. They can be tailored to any sleek contemporary or traditional style kitchen, using various design methods,” explains Molly Chandler. “If you have taller ceilings than your average property, floor-to-ceiling cabinetry can help to accentuate the height, whilst utilising the storage space available.

“Many kitchen manufacturers have a ‘standard installation height’ they work to, so adding top boxes above the standard tall run of cabinetry can both be visually appealing and practical for the home owner.

“Some may not need the extra storage space, so using the top boxes for just visual purposes can be really effective to the overall kitchen look. Opting to have these top boxes glazed in a traditional Georgian-style kitchen can also look more grand, with an added lighting feature to create more visual depth and height, whilst also being able to display ornaments to add more character.”

Shop kitchen baskets and cabinets

Why is floor-to-ceiling kitchen cabinetry not right for every house?

Sometimes, in kitchens with low ceilings, such as those in cottages or basement conversions, full-height units can feel overbearing and encourage the room to appear claustrophobic. However, a kitchen with a ceiling height of at least 2.1m should allow enough room to breathe.

If you’re unsure about having a full run of floor-to-ceiling units throughout the kitchen, perhaps mix-and-match with some statement larger cupboard or above in-built ovens.

FAQs

Are floor-to-ceiling cabinets more expensive?

“The cost of having floor to ceiling cabinetry can vary depending on the height available, but typically there will be an added 5% charge for altering the height of your kitchen cabinets. If top boxes are being added above this, there will be an extra cost per cabinet,” advises Molly Chandler.

What is the current trend for kitchen wall units?

"Maximising a kitchen’s storage potential is a trend which is continuing in 2025,” comments Molly Chandler, “No longer satisfied with their current storage options, homeowners are choosing to install floor-to-ceiling cupboards, which is a highly efficient design solution that maximises every inch of vertical space.

“Sleek floor-to-ceiling pantries remain popular, these understated cabinets blend seamlessly into a kitchen design and provide maximum storage, without encroaching on precious floor space.”

For more advice on how to plan or adapt your kitchen, take a look at our guides to how much a kitchen will cost in 2025, how to design a kitchen island, and how to choose between a fitted or freestanding kitchen.

Choosing the right ceiling lights for your kitchen can be quite the challenge. Should you go for the sleek practicality of recessed spotlights, the statement-making appeal of pendant kitchen lighting, or a layered combination of both? To help you navigate these choices, we asked top kitchen and lighting experts to share their industry insights.

From selecting the ideal fixtures to designing a flexible kitchen lighting scheme with dimmers and circuits, we’ve put together a straightforward guide to what you need to know to light your kitchen beautifully. Whether you’re renovating the entire space or simply upgrading your ceiling lights, these expert tips will help you make the best choice for your home.

The importance of lighting for kitchen ceilings

"Kitchen lighting design needs to have the most flexible interior lighting scheme in the home to reflect the wide range of functions which kitchens are now used for," explains Luke Thomas, design director at John Cullen Lighting. "Ceiling lighting is essential in a kitchen because it provides general illumination for the space, ensuring functional lighting for activities such as preparing food, cooking, and cleaning, as well as general illumination to create a welcoming environment."

The Best Ceiling Lighting For Kitchens

"When selecting the right ceiling lights for a kitchen, it's important to first determine how you want the space to feel," says Hanna Walter, creative manager at Heathfield & Co. "Bright and energising, warm and inviting, or something in between. Consider how you want to strike the balance between ambient, task and accent lighting to create an atmosphere that suits your needs."

Brightness and warmth

When it comes to brightness and warmth for kitchen ceiling lights, you want to find a good balance between functionality and atmosphere. Bright, cool-toned lighting (around 3000K to 4000K) is ideal for task-heavy areas like countertops, islands, and sinks, as it provides the crisp clarity needed for chopping, cooking, and cleaning. However, incorporating warmer tones (2700K to 3000K) in dining or entertaining areas helps create a cosy, inviting ambience perfect for family meals or social gatherings.

Pendant kitchen lights

"In a kitchen with high ceilings, look at visually lowering the sense of scale by adding low hanging pendants over the island," says Luke Thomas. "This can also help delineate the space in an open plan kitchen."

Hanna Walter agrees, "Pendant lights are perfect for kitchen ceilings, as they can be hung individually or in small groups and create a statement without feeling obtrusive or taking up valuable space on the countertops," she explains. "We would always recommend hanging pendants around 36cm above any worktops or kitchen islands to provide task lighting but also keep the space feeling spacious and airy. Keep in mind how spacious your kitchen is and select the size and quantity of pendant lights accordingly, so as not to overwhelm the space or create a stark feeling."

Helen Parker, creative director at deVOL kitchens, suggests keeping your kitchen pendant lights subtle and not too overpowering, "It's hard to resist the urge to really make your mark with these types of light, but try to be less obvious and go for simple, understated and beautiful designs."

Shop kitchen ceiling pendant lights

Ceiling Downlights & Spotlights

Ceiling spotlights or downlights are another excellent choice for kitchens. Whether you’re prepping meals or simply showing off your kitchen countertops, downlights provide a good level of illumination without drawing attention away from your décor.

To get this type of lighting right, placement is key. Instead of arranging spotlights in a standard grid, Luke Thomas recommends positioning them strategically over worktops, sinks, or other key areas where task lighting is required. This approach not only avoids overloading your kitchen with unnecessary fixtures but also helps highlight the design details you love, like a statement backsplash or worktop.

“Use a low-glare directional downlight to wash the front of your kitchen units,” recommends Luke. “This not only provides a soft, reflected light to the space but also lights inside cupboards when they’re open.”

For kitchens with higher ceilings, downlights work beautifully when paired with pendants. Together, they create layers of light that are both practical and atmospheric. “LED downlights placed between pendants ensure you have good task lighting on the work surface below,” Luke adds.

If you want even more flexibility, consider putting downlights on dimmer switches or separate circuits. This allows you to brighten the space for busy mornings or dial it down for a more relaxed evening ambience.

Shop kitchen spotlights

How to Layer Kitchen Ceiling Lights

A well-lit kitchen doesn’t rely on a single source of light, it’s all about layers of light. By combining different types of lighting, you can create a space that feels balanced, practical, and inviting no matter the time of day or activity at hand. Successful layered lighting blends task, ambient, and accent lights to ensure every corner of your kitchen shines in just the right way.

“Kitchen lighting should strike a balance between atmospheric and functional,” explains Hannah Walter. Her advice is to start with focused lighting for workspaces, like a trio of Nora Pendant Lights by Heathfield & Co above a kitchen island, to provide bright, direct illumination. Then, shift the focus to more ambient features in entertaining spaces. “The Rayne Chandelier by Heathfield & Co is a real conversational piece and emits a warm, diffused glow to create a calming atmosphere,” she adds.

For added dimension, Luke Thomas suggests looking beyond downlights. “Layered lighting will add more interest and impact than just using kitchen downlights. Consider using LED linear strip lights or adding discreet uplights to a dark corner or to light an arch or doorway,” he advises. Installing linear lighting above cabinets is another clever trick, as it reflects light upward, softening the overall effect and reducing the need for excessive downlights.

Don’t forget the softer touches, either.“Combining ceiling lights with wall lights is a great way of mixing up the feel of a room,” says Helen Parker. “To create a softer light and really give character to the room, I would always recommend wall lights in a kitchen. A little pool of light in a dark corner can make all the difference – unexpected lighting and a little styling can really elevate a space.”

FAQs

How can you use dimmer switches for kitchen ceiling lights?

"Kitchen lighting always works best when you allow for flexibility to change the mood from the daytime, when you want it to be bright, to the evening, when you are looking for a more subdued light to entertain by," explains Luke Thomas from John Cullen Lighting.

"To achieve this, firstly put your lights on different circuits. Wall lights, under cupboard lights, downlights and feature lighting should all on different circuits so each can be controlled individually. At a minimum fit dimmers, or if budget allows fit a pre-set control system that can change to different moods at the touch of a button."

For further guidance, you may want to read our guide to the basics of electrics

How many downlights do I need in a kitchen?

Getting the number of downlights right depends on your kitchen’s size and layout. As a rule of thumb, one downlight per 1.5 square metres (16 square feet) works well, but placement matters more than quantity. Focus on positioning downlights directly over task areas like counters and sinks, and avoid placing them near walls to prevent shadows. To keep the space feeling balanced, pair downlights with other lighting, such as pendants over an island or LED strips under cabinets. In small kitchens, 3-4 downlights are usually enough, and using dimmers or separate circuits helps create a flexible, adaptable lighting scheme.

What are the common mistakes to avoid with kitchen ceiling lighting?

One of the biggest kitchen lighting mistakes is over-lighting, which can make the space feel harsh and clinical. Instead, focus on strategically placing lights where they’re needed most, like over worktops and sinks. Placing overhead lighting too close to walls is another common pitfall, as it can create unflattering shadows. To add depth and interest with ceiling lights, focus on layering your lighting by mixing pendants, wall lights, and under-cabinet fixtures.

Want to get your kitchen just right? Avoid these common kitchen design mistakes during your renovation or self-build project, and explore expert tips for lighting a kitchen island if it’s set to become the heart of your cooking space.

Constant condensation on ceilings – or anywhere – usually indicates a problem that needs sorting, and quick. The longer it's left, the more problems will occur further down the line. There may be a simple solution, but in most cases, you are looking at a major job.

But before you start panicking, you need to assess the problem and get some expert advice on what to do. Here, those in the know reveal why it happens, when you should start worrying about condensation on ceilings, and what you can do to deal with it before mould starts to appear.

Is condensation on ceilings a common problem?

Although we are often used to figuring out how to stop window condensation, such as making sure you've invested in the best dehumidifier to remove excess moisture, or ensuring we've installed the best bathroom extractor fans to deal with hot showers, condensation on ceilings isn't always something you expect to see. But, the reality is, it's more common a problem than we think.

“Condensation in the UK is a real problem, affecting one in every five properties," says Andy Simms, from MyBuilder.com.

"Ceilings are a very common place to find condensation because as warm, damp air moves up and hits the cold ceiling, this causes water to form on it. Ceiling condensation can cause problems like mould, structural damage, damp and peeling paint."

But, are there any other contributing factors to suddenly seeing condensation on ceilings?

Try this loft insulation to help stop ceiling condensation

The causes of condensation on ceilings

According to the experts, there are three main factors which can all contribute to the problem of condensation on ceilings.

1. Ventilation issues

“Poor home ventilation is a major cause of ceiling condensation," says Andy Simms. "This is why bathrooms and kitchens are most prone to ceiling condensation, as these rooms produce a lot of steam from showers, baths, and cooking.

"Keeping your windows and doors open while cooking or showering is very important to reduce moisture levels," he says.

Mike Storey, an insulation expert and manager at UK Flat Roofing and Insulation Specialists, stresses the importance of ensuring there is sufficient fresh air in these rooms in order to limit the amount of condensation that is allowed to form.

“Stagnant air traps moisture coming from the steam of your shower or your clothes washing, especially if your windows are sealed or vents are blocked," he explains. "This is particularly bad in humid rooms like bathrooms and kitchens and can lead to moisture buildup which will settle on any cold surface."

“Modern homes designed for energy efficiency often inadvertently reduce airflow, which traps moisture," adds Mike. "This humid air can accumulate and lead to condensation." It's why methods such as house burping, which may sound silly, but is in fact simply a term used to describe regularly allowing stale air out of your home and fresh air in, is especially important during the winter.

"But, it's not just an issue about lack of ventilation," adds Mike. Unwanted ventilation can also be an issue in older properties. Small cracks in ceilings, walls, or window casings of older homes can allow warm indoor air to escape, cooling surfaces and causing condensation.”

2. Insulation – using the right amount

Another contributing factor towards condensation in ceilings is not having enough insulation in your roof or loft space.

“If your loft or roof isn't properly insulated, it can create cold spots on the ceiling," explains Mike Storey. “Gaps in insulation – around recessed lights or edges, for example will create localised cold spots,” he explains.

"So, when warm, moist air from inside your home touches these cold spots, it cools down and turns into water droplets, causing condensation."

There's also a bigger picture at play too, warns Mike Storey. "As well as creating the perfect environment for condensation to form, it can also make the rest of your home chillier too. Cold spots also account for 30% of heat loss in a house."

However, getting the right amount of insulation is also key. “Ironically, if your loft or roof space is over-insulated without adequate ventilation, it can also trap moisture," warns Mike. The consequences? This trapped moisture can then lead to condensation forming in the loft space which can in turn drip onto your ceiling from above, leading to damp patches.

So what can you do to fix this? "Consider hiring an expert to fix or upgrade your insulation," suggests Andy Simms. "It can make a big difference in keeping rooms dry and preventing ceiling condensation.”

While insulating your roof is likely to be a bigger job, if the problem lies with your loft space, insulating a loft is something that can be tackled by a proficient DIYer. Start by understanding the answer to how much loft insulation do I need and then work out your budget based on our guide to loft insulation costs.

3. Broken or damaged building materials

But what if your loft insulation is up to scratch and you have just the right amount? “Missing tiles, damaged flashing, or insufficient underlay can also let cold air seep in, causing condensation on the ceilings below," says Mike Storey. "Rainwater or cold air can enter through damaged roofing, causing leaks and cooling the ceiling which encourages condensation.”

You may also need to take a look at the overall fabric of your building's structure, suggests Mile Storey. “Some materials absorb and retain cold more effectively. ceilings made of concrete, are more prone to retaining cold, meaning condensation will occur in these areas more frequently.”

Rooms where ceiling condensation is more likely to occur

Although problems with insulation or building materials can affect any area of your home, there are rooms in your home that by default will be more at risk of condensation on ceilings, says Mike Storey.

• Bathrooms: “Condensation is more common in rooms where humidity levels are naturally higher, like bathrooms Hot showers and baths fill the air with steam, saturating the air with moisture. Poor ventilation will lead to moisture accumulating on the ceiling, so it is important to open windows after a shower or use the window’s trickle vents.”
• Kitchens: “Condensation will occur when you are cooking, particularly when you are boiling water, including using your kettle. This generates steam, which rises and condenses on cooler surfaces, and is more likely to come in contact with your ceiling if you are not using an extractor fan.”
• Bedrooms: “It might be surprising, but it is possible to create condensation on the ceiling while asleep. As you sleep, your body sweats and the humid air from your breath can reach the ceiling, walls or windows. This is more likely in winter, as you will have the doors or windows closed to keep the warmth in, although this limits the ventilation in the room.”
• Utility rooms: “You’re more likely to dry your clothes in the home during winter, but this is a major contributor to moisture build-up. Condensation in utility rooms can be caused by moisture trapped in the area. Heat from dryers can also create condensation if ventilation is blocked.”

Try these dehumidifiers to help remove excess moisture

The main ways to tackle condensation on ceilings

The two main approaches to dealing with condensation on ceilings are clear, say the experts: ventilation and insulation.

“Make sure each room in your house is ventilated properly, especially bathrooms and kitchens where condensation builds up more frequently," says Mike Storey. "Use extractor fans and open windows or trickle vents to remove moisture from the air, specifically after a shower or bath.”

Secondly, make sure your home has the correct levels of loft or roof insulation and the best type of loft ventilation .

“Proper insulation in your loft or roof space can help maintain a consistent temperature and reduce the risk of condensation. Inspect for cracks in the plaster, especially where pipes, cables and light penetrate the loft space. Loft hatches that aren’t fitted well can also cause air leaks and might require sealant or insulation to block.”

FAQ

Is condensation on ceilings the same as condensation on walls?

You may be asking yourself, if you have condensation on walls will you automatically have it on the ceiling?

“If you have condensation on your walls, you won’t always have it on your ceiling, although it’s common for both to occur in certain conditions," explains Mike Storey.

"The likelihood of it appearing will depend on the temperature and ventilation in the room. However, walls, especially external ones, are often more exposed to outdoor temperatures and may cool down faster than ceilings, making condensation more likely to form on the surface. Additionally, sources of moisture like steam from cooking or showers, often settle on walls before reaching higher surfaces.

"On the other hand, ceilings can remain unaffected as long as the insulation is sufficient," he says.

"However, in rooms with high humidity, poor ventilation, or fluctuating temperatures, condensation can affect both the wall and ceiling simultaneously, as the moisture in the air will settle on any cool surface it encounters.” Make sure you follow the advice on the minimum house temperature to avoid unnecessary fluctuations in your home's ambient temperature.

Worried about the signs of condensation in other areas of your home? Find out what causes condensation inside double glazed windows and follow these tips to help prevent condensation in conservatories.

Knowing how to insulate a vaulted ceiling will leave you with the architectural delights they bring to a home, but with the benefits of much improved energy efficiency. Perfect for keeping a room warm in winter, cool in summer, and a positive effect on your energy bills.

But what insulation you need, and how to fit and finish are the key components of the process. But, before you even start Samuel Hitch, MD at Buy Insulation Online Ltd recommends that you inspect the rafters first, “Ensure they are deep enough for insulation and ventilation.” Don’t panic most are, and here you’ll get pro advice on how to do the job.

How to insulate a vaulted ceiling? The tools you’ll need

Before you start installing your insulation make sure that you have your tools ready. This will differ slightly depending on what type of insulation you are installing, but the list below covers everything you should need.

• Utility knife (like this Durable Folding Utility Knife from Amazon)
• Staple gun
• Saw or insulation board cutter
• Measuring tape (like this STANLEY FATMAX Tape Measure from Amazon)
• Caulk gun and sealant
• Staple gun/nail gun
• Step ladder
• Safety equipment including gloves, face mask and safety goggles

Try these tools to help insulate a vaulted ceiling

Steps to insulate a vaulted ceiling

Here Samuel Hitch, MD at Buy Insulation Online Ltd goes through the steps you need to follow to add insulation to a vaulted ceiling.

1. Seal ceiling

Before you start adding insulation you need to do some preparation work first. Hitch suggests that you, “Use a caulk gun to seal holes around wires, lights, and pipes. Once this is done you will need to create an air gap.

Hitch shares, “For cold roof systems (where insulation goes between rafters) install 50mm tanalised roofing battens for ventilation. Alternatively, “Simply do not fill the entire depth of the rafters with insulation.”

2. Measure and cut insulation

To start, measure up the width between the rafters and cut lengthways with a knife or saw. The length is determined by the type of insulation you are using. Typically, you will only need to cut the length when you get to the end or middle.

Hitch says, “Fit the insulation between rafters, ensuring snug placement without compression in case of mineral wool, or gaps in case of rigid boards.” Once the insulation is fitted he says, “Either use Gapotape along joints or expanding foam to fill gaps. Cut off expanding foam and tape over with aluminium foil tape.”

3. Install VCL and additional insulation

Now you will need to install a VCL (Vapour Control Layer). Hitch says, “Place the VCL over the insulation (on the inside facing side) installed in the previous step, and seal tightly to prevent moisture build-up.” Use a nail or staple gun to attach the VCL to the rafters and cover these with aluminium foil tape.

He adds, “Now add a layer of insulation i.e. insulated plasterboard, across the rafters, perpendicular to the insulation that's already installed, for enhanced thermal performance. He adds, “To achieve modern building regs it's almost certain you will have to do this.”

To finish, plaster the plasterboard and seal any joints with caulk. Finally, paint your desired colour.

What type of insulation is best for a vaulted ceiling?

Hitch says, “The best choice depends on multiple factors, mostly how to achieve the U values required but also acoustic and fire resistance.”

With these factors in mind, there are several insulation options for vaulted ceilings in the UK. Hitch recommends the following:

• Rigid foam PIR boards - This offers the highest insulation value of most commonly available insulation products. One product which is specifically designed for this purpose is Kingspan Thermapitch (available from Amazon) but any PIR insulation would do the trick.
• Rockwool - This is breathable, offers good thermal, acoustic and fire resistant insulation and is easy to install.
• Multifoil insulation - Reflects radiant heat and provides some insulation.
• Sheep's wool - An eco-friendly alternative popular in the UK which is also breathable.

But there are some types of insulation that’s not recommended for vaulted ceilings as Hitch reveals. “Spray foam insulation offers excellent airtightness, but it's not recommended for vaulted ceilings.”

Why? “It can potentially trap moisture and lead to rot in the wooden structure.” He adds a word of warning, “Mortgage providers could potentially refuse to mortgage the property if they find out too.

He also suggests not to use fibreglass in moist areas. He suggests, “In general it is better to go with Rockwool than fibreglass if a mineral wool product is what you prefer.”

Are there any building regulations for vaulted ceiling insulation?

When choosing insulation for a vaulted ceiling, building regulations require a minimum U-value of 0.20 W/m²K for pitched roofs with insulation between rafters.

How can you achieve this? Hitch shares, “Typically to achieve this you would need to add insulation between the rafters and over them too.” So what should be used? Hitch says, “Insulated plasterboard significantly enhances the thermal performance of a vaulted ceiling.” He adds, “This method is especially effective for meeting modern UK Building Regulations.

Does vaulted ceiling insulation need an air gap?

Yes. Hitch explains that, “It's usually done retrospectively without taking the external roof structure off, therefore it is classed as the cold roof method.” But how thick should the insulation material be? “The standard recommendation is a 50mm ventilation space between the top of the insulation and the roof underlay.”

But what does the air gap do? “This gap allows for airflow that helps prevent condensation and the timbers from rotting as a result.”

And there are a few other pointers to follow as Hitch reveals, “Maintain consistent spacing of the air gap to ensure uniform ventilation across the entire roof area.” He adds, “The air gap should be continuous from the eaves to the ridge to allow proper air flow.”

Finally, “Ensure that there are adequate openings at the eaves, soffits and especially the ridge to allow air to enter and exit the gap.”

Insulating a vaulted ceiling is just one way to make a home more energy efficient. Insulating a wall is another smart choice, as well as learning how to insulate a loft. If you don't want to do it yourself, check out our loft insulation costs guide.

Looking at house rendering costs is a good starting point when considering opting for this finish for your new build or renovation.

House rendering can be an excellent choice for providing better insulation and weather protection, but it can be difficult to work out the cost of applying it. This is because the cost can differ greatly based on a number of factors, including the render type, the size of the area to be rendered, and the particulars of the project.

But like any building project, whether you're updating an older home or adding a modern finish to a new build, knowing the costs involved is essential for budgeting and planning, . Here we dive into house rendering costs and all the factors that might affect them.

House rendering costs – by render type

Selecting the appropriate render type requires evaluating the costs associated with the precise specifications and features of the property. Even though the initial costs could differ, taking into account factors like lifespan, maintenance, and aesthetic appeal will help guarantee that the render of choice increases the home's worth and longevity.

Additionally, homeowners should consider speaking with qualified plasterers/renderers to get comprehensive estimates and guidance, specific to their project needs.

Depending on the type of render selected, the size of the property, and other project-specific requirements, the cost of rendering a typical house could vary significantly. But, to give you an overview, the following are costs for the most typical types of render, based on the necessary labour and materials for a standard three-bedroom home with a surface area of between 100 and 150/m2.

1. Cement render costs

• Average cost from £40 to £60/m2.
• Typical house costs: £4,000 to £9,000 in total

The most standard used form of render is cement render. Although reasonably priced, it needs to be painted and repaired on a regular basis. In time it is prone to cracking, particularly if the wall structure beneath it shifts or lowers.

2. Acrylic render costs

• Average cost from £50 to £70/m2.
• Typical house cost: £5,500 to £10,500

Acrylic render is less likely to crack since it is more flexible than cement render. Over a base render, it is applied as a thin finishing coat. It is well-known for its longevity, resilience to water damage, and tolerance to UV rays, It also comes in a variety of colour options.

3. Silicone render costs

• Average cost from £60 to £80/m2
• Typical house cost: £6,000 to £12,000

Excellent water repellency, flexibility, and durability characterise silicone render. Additionally, it has excellent breathability, which helps avoid moisture-related problems such as damp. Modern homes frequently choose silicone render since it is self-cleaning and requires less upkeep.

4. Monocouche render costs

• Average cost from £45 to £70/m2
• Typical house cost: £4,500 to £10,500

Painting is not necessary with monocouche render which is a through-coloured, single-layer render. Applying it can be done quickly which saves on labour costs. This kind of render is well-liked for both new construction and renovations because it provides a clear, neat finish. Because of the material's qualities, it might be more costly than cement render, despite requiring less upkeep.

5. Lime render costs

• Average cost from £70 to £100/m2
• Typical house cost: £7,000 to £15,000

Because lime render is flexible and breathable, it is typically utilised for older or period homes, such as cottage renovations. It is a sustainable solution that's effective in controlling the amount of moisture in walls. Because lime render requires specialised knowledge to apply and costs more for materials, it could turn out more expensive.

Factors that affect house rendering costs 

Like all building projects and their individual trades, other than the type of render used, there are also several other factors that will influence your house rendering costs.

1. Area size – The render cost increases with the size of the surface area that needs to be rendered. Since costs are usually determined on a square metre basis, even slight variations in area, shape and number of openings, can have a big effect on the total amount budgeted for.

2. Preparation work – More preparation work will be needed if the current background is broken, uneven, or covered in outdated render. This can involve base coat application, crack repair, and cleaning, all of which raise the final cost.

3. Scaffolding – This may be required for taller homes or areas that are challenging to access, which raises costs.

4. Labour – The area, the complexity of the work, and the level of expertise of the participating tradespeople can all affect labour costs. Generally speaking, more complex designs or difficult tasks can call for specialised labour, which might increase costs.

5. Location costs – Final costs can differ dramatically based on where the project is located. Compared to rural locations, labour and material prices are typically greater in urban areas, especially in London and the South East of England.

6. Weather – The ideal weather for rendering is moderate and dry. The cost may go up if the work has to be done during a season when weather patterns are less predictable to accommodate possible delays, or the requirement for protective measures to prevent ‘wash off’.

7. Material specification – The cost will also be influenced by the specifications of the materials used. Although higher-quality materials may cost more up front, they frequently last longer and need less maintenance over time, so they are more cost-effective in the long term.

8. Accessibility and detail – Less accessible projects such as those on small streets or with complex architectural details may cost more because they take longer to complete, and require specialised tools and scaffolding.

New-build vs renovation rendering costs

Renovating an existing property versus building a new one has many different factors that can affect the final cost. While the cost of a new build is typically more readily identifiable and foreseeable, renovations include a number of other factors that may increase costs.

Additional costs in renovation projects can be caused by insufficient surface preparation, repairs, incompatibility of materials, and unforeseen issues. When thinking about rendering for new builds versus renovations, you will be better able to budget and prepare for unexpected challenges easier on a new build by being aware of these distinctions.

Always allow a contingency sum of at least 15% for a renovation project, to cover you for those ‘rainy days’.

Cost of house render with external wall insulation

If you are considering rendering your house then external wall insulation (EWI) may be worth considering. Firstly because it will improve the energy efficiency of your home, and secondly because there are various grants available for this product at the moment so it may not cost you anything at all. Expect to pay and between £60-80/m2 for your external wall insulation costs.

To help with budgeting for this additional factor, consider the Great British Insulation Scheme, a government programme which helps British homes become more energy-efficient. Targeting the nation's least energy-efficient houses, it is managed by Ofgem and aims to combat fuel poverty and lower energy costs. The programme, commonly referred to as ECO+, is different from the ECO 4 scheme, which is intended for low-income households.

Additional house rendering costs to consider

Scaffolding costs may be necessary for any kind of rendering project, particularly for townhouses. This could increase the overall cost by up to £1,500, based on the project's size and complexity and timeline for the project.

The cost may also increase if the current surface needs significant preparation, such as cleaning, repairs, or the removal of outdated render by ‘hacking off’. The cost of preparation work could increase by £10 to £30/m2.

There’s no doubt about it that any form of plastering is messy, so make sure you or your tradesperson has allowed for protection in their quotation.

Finally, who is providing the skip at a price of at least £280 for those old bags of render and surplus materials? Try and push this cost into the plasterer’s quotation, so that they fill the skip much more effectively and efficiently than if you were paying for it.

FAQs

How much does house render cost to maintain?

Factor in painting cement-based render every four years as part of ongoing maintenance costs. A regular check will also mean you spot any need for render repair. For a typical semi-detached house, expect to pay up to £1,500 for a painter, materials and a tower scaffold.

If you’ve opted for external wall insulation, acrylic, silicone or monocouche then these finishes may just require a hydro wash every 4-5 years as they are self-coloured. There are plenty of professional companies online who offer this quick and effective service for around £250 for a typical terraced house.

How much value will the new render add?

Enhancements in appearance, such as rendering, can raise a property's value straight away. A well-rendered property is frequently seen as being more substantial, well-cared for, and modern, though the precise value added will vary based on things including the type of render, quality of craftsmanship, and the local housing market.

Higher valuations and asking prices may result from these perceptions. Rendering may raise the value of a home by as much as 5-10% in certain circumstances, particularly in places where contemporary design is highly desired. Consult a nearby estate agent to determine the additional value.

It's critical to assess the property values in your neighbourhood. By exercising caution in this manner, you can guard against the risk of investing money on rendering your property, but it doesn't increase the property's value and so prevent financial losses.

How do I find a tradesperson to render my house?

The best tradesperson to apply house rendering are plasterers, not builders. Preferably time served with City and Guilds qualifications too. If it’s external wall insulation you’re after, then approach some EWI companies directly, as this is a different process to traditional plastering.

When it comes to getting render quotations, invite the companies or tradespeople to the project so they can see the work required, including any access issues, hacking off and repairs if it’s a renovation. I always advise clients to get a minimum of four written quotations when pricing any element of building work as that way you get a broad spectrum of prices to compare and contrast.

If you are still planning your project, take a look some of our house rendering ideas for inspiration on how to finish off the exterior. From mixing render with cladding to using render on an extension to ensure none of the character of your home is lost, we've got all sorts of examples for what you can do to maximise the appearance of your build.

Encouraging your kids to remain active indoors with a climbing wall in their bedroom is the latest trend and one we're absolutely here for. It is not hugely costly, but definitely is a special feature that can be made more and more complex as they get older. 

Find out what to consider in terms of safety, preparation and how to include this in children's bedroom design below with our helpful guide. 

Why build a climbing wall

"A climbing wall in a child's room is so much fun. It encourages physical activity and helps build motor skills like strength and coordination," begins Jules Yap, founder of IKEA Hackers, who built a climbing wall in her own home using a series of IKEA purchases.

"As they climb, they'll also learn to problem-solve as they figure out the best way to reach different holds. 

"Nevertheless, parents should only install a climbing wall in their children's rooms with safety in mind. Start with easy-to-grip holds and a low wall, then swap them for more challenging grips and expand the height as your child gets stronger and braver. This way, their room becomes a constantly evolving training ground for their growing bodies and minds."

How to build climbing walls

There are a couple of routes you can take to build climbing wall in the bedroom or playroom. 

First, the easiest option, is to buy pre-built freestanding apparatus. This requires minimal know-how and simple safety precautions. However, children might quickly grow out of this often-rudimentary set-up, and the bulky nature requires a decent amount of space to make it worth it indoors. 

The next option, and increasing in complexity, is to buy pre-made panels that simply need to be fastened and secured to the bedroom or playroom wall. Kits like these ones from climbAwall, need a wooden framework for extra security on plaster board. Alternatively, if the wall is solid and of decent quality the panels can be afixed directly to them. The hand and footholds can simply be adapted and changed around as required. 

The final option is the most complex: building the walls yourself. The benefits of this allow for more bespoke designs, including angled overhangs for more complex bouldering. Plywood of at least 25mm in thickness is required. 

Although some utilise pre-existing furniture to adapt into a climbing wall, Jule Yap, who went down this exact route shares her concerns. "While the IKEA climbing wall hack sounds creative and cool, it may not be for everyone. Every child is different, so is every parent and his or her DIY skills. 

"Modifying furniture can compromise its original sturdiness. Unless you're very handy and confident in your building skills, a pre-built climbing wall with certified safety features might be a better option, especially for younger children."

Climbing wall costs and where to buy parts

Climbing holds can bought easily and cheaply from places like Amazon, or a little more expensive from custom stores, such as Kong Holds. 

Plywood for a 1.2 x 2.4 climbing space would cost around £352 from DIY shops like B&Q, plus batons spaced as you would for studwork costing another £30.

Pre-made panels with holds included, on the other hand, can cost around £420 for the same area from climbAwall. 

Climbing wall safety precautions

You must ensure a safety mat or crash pad is directly underneath the climbing wall, if not directly installed on the floor so it doesn't move away while bouldering is happening. 

"Besides that, climbing walls, even well-built ones, require adult supervision," adds Jules. "Having an at-home-climbing wall doesn't replace the need for proper instruction and watchful eyes. If you're not comfortable supervising your child while climbing, or enrolling them in climbing classes, then this DIY project should not be recreated in your home."

Climbing wall size

In theory, a climbing wall can be as big or as small as you like. Some like to install some small panels and holds above the bed, but others enjoy space for longer routes and more complex activity. There is no minimum ceiling height required, but if you're dealing with very low rooms, consider making the wall longer by going further horizontally. 

Naturally, depending on the age of your child the bigger will be better for a great range of movement as they grow older, but smaller kids just learing to boulder would be very happy with 1.2m x 1.2m kits. 

Climbing wall ideas

1. Create alternative access to a loft bed

This modest-sized kid's bedroom utilises the vertical space masterfully to encourage another way to access the loft bed away from the low sloping eaves. 

A crash mat can be stowed in the under-bed storage, or a a thick foam mat (at least 300mm) could be desined underneath a soft floor covering. 

2. Keep the climbing wall stylish and versatile

Children's bedrooms are a place to express themselves and develop individuality and tastes, so encourage your child to paint the plywood or panel in a colour that interests them – even changing it up every few years. 

This home has also added complexity to the bouldering space, but including ceiling holds and hoop swings. The safety mat is also neatly positioned in the the alcove. 

3. Use aparatus for a temporary approach

Perhaps you're in rented accommodation, or perhaps you have a nagging feeling the climbing phase might not last forever. Whatever the reason, you might not want to drill into walls and have a permanent bouldering wall so using pre-build apparatus could be a great alternative. 

These sets also usually come with a variety of activities for different types of exercise – from swings to monkey bars. 

If you are still designing your child's room from scratch, there are plenty of other fun features you can perhaps consider including, from bunk beds that look like a ship to adding a tiny door for child only access to certain areas. For more inspiration, take a look at our piece on children's bedroom ideas.

When damp rears its ugly head, it can lead to all sorts of unwanted issues in the home. It’s not always easy to spot until obvious signs start appearing on walls and ceilings.

While painting over damp is a simple solution that can conceal marks and stains, it's not as simple as just applying a few coats of paint.

There is always an underlying cause of dampness, and this must be addressed first. Once the damp has been dealt with, you can then move on to painting over it. Here, we tell you how to prepare affected areas and select the right paint to achieve the best finish.

Painting over damp: what do I need to do first?

The appearance of damp means there is an underlying issue that is causing the problem and ideally this needs to be dealt with first before you start painting. Knowing how to stop condensation on walls and ceilings can be one quick way to solve a damp issue.

But there may be more serious issues such as rising damp, leaking pipes, broken down damp proof course and failing gutters.

Nicholas Donnithorne, UK Technical Manager at Rentokil Property Care says, “the first thing you need to do is identify and fix the cause. Is it coming from inside the building, seeping through the walls, creeping up from the ground, from natural water or from a leaking pipe or drain?

"If you do not identify and remediate the source, whatever you do to treat or hide the damp will fail in the long term," he warns.

One of the causes, rising damp, "is caused by moisture travelling up through the brickwork or masonry," adds Nicholas. "It’s the bane of older buildings, where the damp proof course (DPC) may have deteriorated – or be missing altogether.”

Another common issue found in older buildings is salt damp. “This is caused by hygroscopic salts trapped in the wall as a result of groundwater rising up it," he explains. "These salts suck moisture into the plaster surface, meaning the damp patch will come and go with the weather.”

Nicholas warns, “if you see the telltale signs of a damp problem, the worst thing you can do is to ignore it. Left unaddressed, damp can grow into a bigger, more costly structural issue.”

Try these tools and paint for painting over damp

What paint should I use on damp?

Before you start painting over damp. Nicholas Donnithorne offers the following advice.

"Damp proof paints and concealant sealers may initially cover up the problem, but if the source of the damp isn’t remedied, sooner or later the paint film will be breached." "Worse still, as many damp proof paints seal water in, they may even make matters worse," he warns, so it's always best to proceed with caution.

If you are dealing with ugly stains and marks left on previously painted interior walls and ceilings, you want to start with a paint that will cover the stain and block it from reappearing. Zinsser B-I-N from Amazon is a good all-round primer/sealer/stain killer that can be used on interior and exterior surfaces. An alternative option is to use an oil-based paint like Dulux Trade Undercoat.

If painting a high moisture area like a kitchen or bathroom, a mould resistant paint like this Zinsser Perma White Self-Priming Interior Paint from Amazon is a good choice for the top coat and to keep surfaces looking good for longer.

For exterior surfaces use a suitable masonry paint such as this Sandtex masonry paint from Amazon. This is suitable for render, concrete, blocks and brick and is available in smooth and textured finishes. Alternatively, try this Dulux Weathershield masonry paint from Amazon. Or for more extreme conditions try this Sandtex Trade X-treme X-posure Smooth Masonry Paint.

Three steps to painting over damp

Make sure you have the right paint, clean brushes and rollers and dust sheets – like these brackit 8-Pack, Large Plastic Dust Sheets for Decorating from Amazon – on hand before you start.

1. Prep and clean area 

Peeling paint and loose plaster will need to be removed before you start painting. Get a scraper to remove loose debris and finish with a wire brush. Wash down the walls with a suitable mould killer like this Zinsser Professional Mould Killer and Remover from Amazon.

2. Fill and sand 

Damp will cause holes and cracks in walls and ceilings and these need to be filled before you paint. Use a suitable all purpose filler or patching plaster like this Palace Langlow Patching Plaster from Amazon for larger cracks that need fixing.

Leave to dry as per the manufacturer’s instructions and then rub down with a 120-180 grit sandpaper grade. Then add a primer coat to help seal the plaster and leave to dry.

3. Apply top coat 

Start by applying a layer of mould resistant paint. This is optional, alternatively you can just apply a layer of oil based paint. To finish, add your preferred top coat.

FAQs

How long does it take to dry out a damp wall? 

In short, this will depend on the type of wall you have, the severity of the problem, and the conditions.

Jess Thomas, Damp expert and MD of Drainage Central says, "a damp wall can take a few days to a few months to dry out after the source of moisture is addressed, with the overall time depending on the cause of the damp, the extent of any damage and the type of wall."

Nicholas Donnithorne agrees and offers the following broad guidelines. "For every 25mm of wall thickness, the wall will take about a month to dry if there is bare brickwork on one side. If the outside is rendered and the inside plastered, the drying out process will take much longer."

So how can you speed up the process? Natural ventilation, i.e, opening the windows, will help air flow through a room, which encourages moisture to evaporate quicker. And pumping up the heating in a home will help as well.

Alternatively, the best dehumidifiers will help suck moisture out of the air which will shorten drying times. If dealing with rising damp, removing skirting boards will expose the bottom of the wall to air, which will again help remove moisture much quicker.

What happens if you just paint over damp? 

Painting over damp is a short-term fix; it may hide the problem for a few weeks or months, but in the long term, you will be causing more issues. The damp will still exist, and adding more paint can help keep the damp in the wall or ceiling, making the problem worse rather than better.

Jess Thomas says, "painting over damp without fixing the cause will trap moisture, which will affect the adhesion of the paint and only be a temporary solution. The damp problem can potentially worsen, which can result in structural damage or mould growth.

"Paint cannot adhere to a damp surface properly, so it will bubble and peel after it has dried," warns Jess. "The dry paint will also trap moisture in the wall or ceiling, making the damp worse and stopping it from being able to dry out."

Can I use a dark colour paint to hide damp? 

You can use any colour paint you want to hide damp, as long as the area has been prepared properly and the right steps taken. However, adding a dark colour - especially over white - will help hide any stains quickly. If stains do start to reappear they are typically harder to spot on a darker colour.

Damp can lead to mould and you might want to try to remove mould from walls without damaging paint, before you go further. It can also affect wood, so check out how to clean mould off wood to ensure you get a clean surface for painting.

Building with masonry requires a fair amount of skill, not to mention the knowledge of the systems needed for tying it all together to form a strong structure.

A masonry wall is formed with an inner leaf of concrete blocks and external cladding (facing bricks in this case) to form a cavity. The two leaves are joined together with wall ties. This inner leaf of block work, forms the engineered structure of the house and provides the support to roofs, windows and doors and external cladding. 

Thermal performance is provided by insulation fitted in the cavity, which can be a rigid board or full fill quilts to achieve the required U-value.

Here our expert Mark Stevenson takes an in-depth dive into using brick and block when building a house's superstructure, which – for the uninitiated – is the part of the build above the ground.

Building with masonry– pros and cons

Before choosing building with masonry as your build type, it's worth weighing up the pros and cons compared to building with timber frame. Depending on your circumstances, plot, timeframe, budget and what you want to achieve, one build method – either timber vs masonry – will usually prove more compatible than the other.

The principal advantages of building with masonry are as follows:

• A market generic solution with a common understanding of how to design and build 
• Widely accepted by mortgage providers and insurers, unless you’re building something unusual
• Established, locally available skill base available throughout the UK
• Hands on self-builders can get involved with the construction activities 

Meanwhile the disadvantages of building with masonry include:

• Most of the types of concrete blocks offer little in the way of thermal resistance and therefore the block inner leaf generally does little to improve thermal performance. There are exceptions such as lightweight thermal blocks, but even these will require additional insulation to meet the latest requirements of Building Regulations.  
• Can take time to build and there can be delays if weather conditions are not suitable or safe for bricklaying
• While blocks are generally cheaper, bricks can be expensive . Ultimately the cost of building with masonry and blockwork will depend on your choices of materials. Comparing wall system costs before you start is certainly worth doing, especially  if you are on a tight budget

How to start your build

Building a brick and block house is literally laying one block on top of the other. Although it may sound simple, in actual fact it’s a highly skilled process that requires technical know-how to build a house that’s compliant, resilient to weather and looks beautiful. 

The average bricklayer is a highly skilled individual with the strength and stamina to see the process through to the very end, no matter what the weather.

The process starts with the setting out of the building. This is about making sure the walls are in the right place and checking the substructures (the foundations) to ensure there’s adequate support for what’s about to be built. 

Once the setting out has been done, it’s then a case of building the walls and forming the cavities incorporating the DPCs, lintels, cavity trays, wall ties, insulation, restraint straps, air vents, fire barriers and window and door openings. 

There’s a lot going on and it all has to be built as per the construction details and in accordance with the building inspector and warranty provider’s requirements. 

Depending on the insulation being used, either the external face brickwork or the internal block wall will be built first. This is so the insulation can be fixed in position correctly. If the insulation is full fill, there’s a risk that if the cavities aren’t clean, mortar snots will transfer water and saturate the insulation quilt. In this situation my advice is to build the outside face brickwork first to make sure the back of the brickwork is clean to eliminate this risk.

Bricklaying

The process of bricklaying is simple. Build up the corners and then run the wall in building to a straight and level line. Provided this is done with care and the mortar mix is correct, the walls will go up accurately. 

Without the necessary due diligence, it’s quite easy for cavities to grow and levels to be out such that the brick coursing doesn’t work. This is known in the trade as a ‘course of pig’ and is a bricklayer’s worst nightmare.

As the work progresses, safe access needs to be provided in the form of scaffolding. There’s a tendency for self-builders to cut costs here by encouraging bricklayers to build as high as possible to cut down the number of scaffold lifts and visits from the scaffolder. I’ve seen what brickwork looks like when bricklayers are laying on tip toes, so my advice is don’t – give them great access at maximum 1.5m lifts.

Once the walls are up to joist level, the bricklayers leave and the carpenters move in to build the first floor. This takes a few days and is preceded with the installation of crash deck as the carpenters will be working at height and you don’t want to risk them falling. 

Building a second storey

Upon completion of the first floor deck, the second storey can be built following the same process as the ground floor, except access and materials distribution is a bit more difficult as the work is being done at height. 

To help this, ask the scaffolder to provide a loading platform so materials can be lifted using forklifts rather than by hand which would be slow and unsafe. Also watch out for the bricklayers overloading the scaffold and the first floor joists as these aren’t designed to carry full packs of blocks.

The process of building a masonry house is a bit like a game of football. It’s a team approach with the bricklayers getting so far before the scaffolder is needed and then handing over to the carpenters who then hand back to the bricklayers when they’ve finished. This repeats over and over, storey by storey until the superstructure is finished. 

It’s all very manual, there will probably be a few arguments, and it’s likely to involve a few injuries (exactly like a game of football).

Checks to make throughout your build

Whilst brick and block is a robust solution for building a house, it involves many moving parts so construction requires close supervision to make sure every detail is correct to prevent later defects. 

The NHBC standards 2023 offer a useful insight to best building practice so have a read of this to know what you should be looking for. Some of the essential things to check are: 

• Make sure the superstructure is being built in accordance with the building design and in particular, the details which have been signed off by the approved inspector 
• Double check the specification of the materials being used is correct, for example brickwork is of the required durability to deal with wet and freezing conditions.
• Make sure the setting out of the building is right before any work starts 
• Build within the tolerances (source NHBC standards 2023) which state the build must be adequately straight on plan, with a ±8mm maximum deviation in any length of wall up to 5m; a maximum of 8mm from plumb in any storey up to 3m (taller walls should be a maximum of 8mm from plumb per storey and 12mm in total; and have no more than a maximum deviation of 4mm over 1m at window and door reveals
• Pay close attention to filling around penetrations such as joists and steel beams to make sure there’s no risk of air gaps or cracking

1. Damp proof courses (DPC)

Damp proof courses (DPC) should be the correct specification (BS8215) and be installed as per the design details. 

This usually requires the external DPCs to be 150mm above outside ground level and stepped up where level access thresholds are needed. Internal DPC details should be able to be lapped with the internal damp proof membrane to prevent water ingress and improve airtightness. 

DPC is usually used as a cavity trap over window and door openings and above roof abutments and penetrations such as vents and meter boxes. Make sure this is installed along with weep holes and the ends of the DPC turned up so any water runs out of the wall.

2. Cavities

Check cavities are the required width and clean of mortar that may bridge the cavity and cause water to penetrate. 

It’s common to find mortar on wall ties so knock this off with a long stick and remember to clean out the debris from cavity trays and at the bottom of the wall. To save lots of work, ask the bricklayers to take care and use boards to stop mortar falling down the cavity.

Make sure cavities at window reveals are correctly closed with the correct cavity closers. This is particularly important on elevations with severe levels of exposure which may require additional defensive detailing.

3. Wall ties

Check that wall ties are installed correctly (usually 900mm horizontal x 450mm vertical centres and every 225mm around windows and doors). Wall ties should fall away from the inner leaf of block to stop water penetrating the building.

4. Cavity wall insulation

Cavity wall insulation should be installed strictly as per the manufacturer’s instructions, closely butted with no air gaps. The insulation should be in full contact with the inner leaf of blockwork with restraint clips on wall ties where this is needed. Rigid boards usually require the joints to be taped. 

If using full fill cavity insulation, where the insulation will be in contact with the outer cladding such as brick, it’s essential that cavities are clean and the insulation is clear of mortar which might cause water to saturate the insulation.

5. Movement joints

Make sure movement joints are installed as per the design to control any thermal cracking in long lengths of walls. Dense concrete blockwork usually requires movement joints every 7.5m to 9m whereas clay bricks only need them every 10m to 12m. 

Movement joints should be correctly bonded with a compressible filler and sealed to prevent water penetration.

6. Cavity barriers

Cavity barriers are required to stop the spread of a fire. Check the design and make sure cavity barriers are installed to the correct specification to suit the thickness of the cavities and the type of cladding material. Make sure intumescent type cavity barriers are used where the cavity must be ventilated.

If you're just starting your investigation into self-build, you may be wondering what else is involved? Find out more in our step-by-step guide to building a house as well as our guide on how much does it cost to build a house.

Mould on outside walls isn’t always what you think. It's typically different from the mould you’ll find in the home, but it's still unsightly, unwanted, and a sign that you have an issue that needs to be dealt with.

The right mould removal techniques will help get rid of this ugly, unwanted growth. But it might not be mould at all, as Dave Bendon, director of D Bendon Construction Ltd, shares. "The good news is, black, green, blue and even red patches on the outside of your house are often algae rather than mould.”

But, whatever it is, you’ll still want to say goodbye to it. This guide reveals the common causes, quick fixes, how to get rid of it, what you need to do to prevent it from coming back, and how to get your walls looking like new again.

Common causes of mould on outside walls

Even if you feel you know everything about removing mould from walls and you've become an expert on the types of mould that exist, how you tackle the issue on the outside of your home will be different to the methods you use inside.

Most importantly, whereas the cause of mould in a house is often due to a build up of condensation, this is not a factor when it comes to external walls. Instead, there are a number of different reasons for the build up of mould-like damage and getting to the root of the problem is essential.

"Mould build up on external walls could be from a number of factors, such as a leak inside the property or poor condition of the exterior walls allowing moisture to permeate," says Checkatrade approved member, Edward Jonkler from Remora Restorations.

"It’s also often down to a lack of maintenance with guttering. Once bricks or exterior materials are saturated they become a potential environment for mould growth to occur. Rising damp is another source of moisture in external walls."

Tyr these exterior paints to refresh walls

Step-by-step advice for getting rid of mould on outside walls

1. Find the cause of the mould

When it comes to knowing how to stop mould on outside walls, all the experts agree that if you can't find an obvious cause to fix the problem yourself, the most important first step is to call in the professionals.

“My advice for mould and damp issues is to seek a specialist to work out what the root cause of the issue is," says Andy Simms, construction expert at Mybuilder.com.

"Once you've discovered the cause, get it fixed as soon as possible. There's zero point treating the effects of mould without fixing the problem causing it.

“General builders are great for fixing guttering, repairing brickwork or roofing should a leak be your obvious issue. However, you might need a damp specialist to help you fully understand the root of your problem if it is not easily noticeable. They can tell you whether it’s rising damp, condensation, or a bigger issue such as penetrative damp."

Contact a qualified damp expert using a service such as Mybuilder.com who have a handy guide for hiring a damp proof specialist or seek advice from a professional through the Checkatrade website.

2. Clear the area of any overgrown greenery

Buildings need to breathe which is why home ventilation is so important. And while we are often aware of the importance of letting air flow and move around the home, it's also essential to expose your external walls to air and sunlight. The biggest culprit for preventing this can be overgrown trees, bushes and plants.

Sunlight prohibits mould growth and constantly wet greenery pressing against your home will pave the way for penetrating damp to become an issue. Knowing how to stop mould on outside walls therefore means keeping on top of your tree growth and if maintenance is an issue, consider low maintenance garden ideas instead.

3. Clean the affected areas regularly

Once any problems have been fixed, next on the agenda is removing any build up of salts, algae, mould and dirt in order to allow the walls to breathe more effectively.

"Using a fungicidal chemical designed for exterior walls such as Sika Mould Buster would work best," says Edward Jonkler.

Sika Mould Buster from Amazon is also suitable for patios and driveways and has the added bonus of being biodegradeable.

Don't forget to clean in shaded areas such as underneath window sills and eaves, and for extra elbow grease consider using a stiff brush and then rinse with a hose or sponge off with water. And while it may be tempting to reach for chlorine-based bleach, remember this can run-off the walls and end up killing your plants and grass.

If the area you need to tackle is much larger, then other options include using one of the best pressure washers or steam cleaning.

"Pressure washing will achieve a great clean," says Dave Bendon, "but it's important to check it's suitable for your external wall finish before you start. While it may work well on bricks, it can for example cause damage to stone or render.

"You'll also need to be prepared to clean all the walls with it once you start," adds Dave, "as otherwise you'll end up with a patchy finish."

Steam cleaning, which has a much gentler approach, may be more suitable if you are dealing with a listed stone building.

If the main issue with your external walls is algae and dirt, the reality also is that even once your external walls are clean and you've repaired any problems, regardless of their construction methods, you will likely need to repeat the procedure every few years.

4. Waterproof coatings and facade creams

Once your walls are clean, you may want to consider adding a waterproof coating or facade cream depending on the external finish. Although they may not entirely inhibit mould or algae, they will provide a protective layer to prevent any future water ingress from permeating the walls.

Dave Bendon notes that while these can certainly be helpful, it's important to ensure these are also breathable so that moisture doesn't get trapped inside the walls.

Having once used a waterproof coating on an exterior wall that was exposed to driving wind and rain, my experience is that it had a limited success rate. However, it was a number of years ago and progression in product development makes it likely that the efficacy rate is now much better.

Re-painting with a masonry paint offering extra waterproof protection may also be an option, but ensure you check on the label or with a reputable tradesperson that it is suitable for your wall finish before applying any new coating, cream or paint product.

Try these clean and protect products

FAQs

When is mould on outside walls a sign of something more serious?

Penetrating damp is caused by water ingress into the external walls of your house that eventually tracks its way inside when left unresolved.

It's the most common cause of the mould-like arrival of algae on your home and can be caused by a number of different issues:

• Cracks and gaps in your external wall finishes
• Problems with guttering and downpipes
• Leaks in the roof, eaves, fascias or soffits
• Overgrown trees, bushes and plants in consistent contact with walls

In general, all of the above can be remedied making it less likely for mould to appear inside your home in the long run.

But if the mould or damp problem only appears on the ground floor walls of your property, and is also close to the ground, you could have a rising damp issue that needs more than just a quick power wash.

Generally caused by a failure, or breach of your damp proof course (DPC), the most common signs on outside walls are "visible saturation of bricks, such as a darker area, or there could be visible salt deposits on the walls," says Edward Jonkler, something that's often referred to as salt banding.

It's also likely you'll see this rising tide mark on both the inside and outside walls of your home – particularly those internal walls that are outside facing.

If you think this could be a problem, it's essential to seek professional advice to repair your DPC course, or to assess if the issue is caused by external hard landscaping such as patios or driveways being laid above the level of your DPC.

Can rainfall cause mould on outside walls?

Rainfall causing algae or mould growth on outside walls is common and easily fixable.

"Algae thrives in damp conditions," says Dave Bendon. "The combination of the UK's relatively high rainfall and the fact that most external wall finishes – even renders which are classed as smooth – still have a textured surface that airborne algae will attach to.

"Or the walls are made from materials such as stone which lichen loves," he adds, "meaning you are likely to see a build up of discolouration every few years."

And while leaving dirt and algae won't necessarily lead to any bigger problems, it's always recommended that you deal with it to ensure it doesn't hide anything such as new cracks or external wall damage that can cause longer term problems such as permeating damp.

If you've tackled the problem outdoors and now need to repair the damage inside, follow our advice on how to remove mould from walls without damaging paint and try these budget-friendly products to get rid of mould around your home.

There is a rare opportunity to buy a Huf Haus in the UK with only the 99th style of this home coming onto the market for £3.8 million.

The unique architectural house style has been introduced in Stoke Wood in Slough with the 4897 sqft property being built with floor-to-ceiling windows and steel beams in a triangular structure.

We take a tour of the home that includes five bedrooms, a cinema room and a fully covered outdoor BBQ area.

What is a Huf Haus?

Huf Haus, a renowned German housebuilder, specialises in crafting premium modular homes, characterised by timber/metal beams and floor-to-ceiling glass. 

These homes are factory-produced and then transported to the site, boasting high energy efficiency through innovative design and cutting-edge renewable energy technologies.

The UK witnessed a surge in demand for Huf Haus homes following their inclusion on an episode of Grand Designs in 2004. 

Although there are now over 300 such homes in the UK, only approximately 20 to 30 of the 150 homes produced annually by Huf Haus make their way to British shores.

Signature floor-to-ceiling windows to maximise natural light

As a main feature of the Huf Haus design this home includes large windows that provide an abundance of natural light to maximise the amount of daylighting in the property.

The full-length windows and steel frame balcony overlook the garden and surrounding Stoke Wood countryside.

Foxtons CEO, Guy Gittins, commented: “Despite a boom in popularity, the number of Huf Haus homes found across the UK is still slim and this makes them very sought after amongst a certain segment of homebuyers.

"Besides the obvious benefits such as being highly energy efficient, they are visually stunning properties and our latest listing is certainly no different."

Bedrooms include built-in storage and access to balcony

The home includes four bedrooms with the master bedroom including a dressing room and four-piece bathroom (containing a sink, bathtub, shower and toilet).

All bedrooms include triangular roofing, en suite showers, built-in storage and access to the balcony with views of the garden and summerhouse.

Cinema room and outside BBQ area also included

The home also includes a cinema room, summer house and covered outside BBQ area in garden.

The home cinema includes shutter blinds and leather sofas whilst the outside BBQ has tiled floors and island with an induction hub.

The home is listed on Foxtons and is available to rent for £3,461.54 p/w. Foxtons have told Homebuilding & Renovating that the house is for sale in the region of £3.8 million.

If you're wondering how to get rid of mould from ceilings, you're not alone. Homes up and down the country experience this very issue and it's something experts are asked to provide advice for on a regular basis.

The good news is, although the location of ceilings can make mould removal a little more tricky, you can still used tried and tested techniques to banish it from your home.

However, regardless of where it's appeared, removing mould from your home is also vitally important. The associated health risks ranging from respiratory illnesses to allergic reactions are to be avoided at all costs, which is why we're here to help find out how to remove mould from ceilings.

Practical solutions for removing mould from a ceiling

Our experts have advice on the best methods to try in your own home to remove unsightly mould. Many of these can be equally effective for removing mould on windows and walls too.

It's worth noting that once you've got on top of the issue, it's also important to put in place preventative methods to ensure the mould problem doesn't reoccur.

Before you start

Although the most common causes of mould are poor ventilation and insulation, if you've spotted the unsightly spores starting to appear on your ceiling and nowhere else, it's worth some extra investigation say the experts.

“When you start treating a ceiling for mould there are several steps to take to make sure the mould does not come back," says Andy Simms, a property renovation expert from MyBuilder.com.

"First, always check there isn’t a small leak from the roof or any pipework running above or within the ceiling. This might not be an easy task if you need to look under floorboards so you might need to get a professional to visit.

"If an area has been subjected to long-term mould, it's likely whatever lies beneath has been subject to rot or decay which can sometimes lead to issues with structural timbers or plasterboard. If this is the case, it is likely the affected areas will need complete exposure, allowed to 'breathe' and then treated or replaced meaning a much bigger job.

Prepare the area

"Ventilating the area affected will help almost instantly alleviate the damp smell that comes with mould, so opening all windows and doors should be the first step," says Izabela Janiec, a branch manager for Daily Poppins.

This will not only help dry up the mould, but also ensure the spores do not linger in the air when you are cleaning them. If you are using a specific mould removal spray or cleaning product, most will also advise they should only be used in well ventilated rooms as the fumes are considered toxic.

And even if you are using a more eco-friendly removal method, wearing protective items is also recommended when removing mould from ceilings.

Henry Patterson, cleaning expert at Housekeep.com says, "gloves, a mask and protective eyewear are a must when removing mould from a ceiling to avoid coming into contact with mould spores. This is particularly important if the mould is extensive and/or you suffer from a respiratory condition such as asthma."

3 ways to remove ceiling mould

From readily available cleaning products to more natural solutions, there are several effective options for getting rid of ceiling mould.

1. Spray with a mould removal product

If you prefer to fight your mould issues with a chemically based product, Homebuilding & Renovating's web editor, Amy Willis, is a fan of HG Mould Spray, available from Amazon.

After experiencing mould on her bathroom ceiling – a self-confessed issue caused by not using the correct paint – Amy tried three products to clean the mould off a ceiling and recorded the results.

Rating HG mould removal as the most effective product, Amy says it was easy to use and although the recommended wait time is 30 minutes, for her it worked quicker.

"I had an old bottle lying around, sprayed it on, waited just over five minutes and wiped and off it came."

The downside? It does leave a chlorine-like smell, but if you have your windows open as advised, this should clear relatively quickly.

Henry Patterson is also a fan of specialist mould removal products. "These are super simple to use," he says. "Double-check the specific instructions for the product that you’re using – but it’s usually just a case of spraying and leaving for 15 minutes or so and then washing clean with water and a damp microfibre cloth.

"Dy thoroughly with a clean towel which should go straight to the wash," he adds, noting you may need to repeat the first stage of the process multiple times to remove the mould entirely.

His top tip? "An old toothbrush will come in handy for removing any particularly stubborn mould."

Personally, I've also had great results using Dettol Mould & Mildew Remover, available from Waitrose, and Astonish Mould & Mildew Blaster, from Amazon, both of which have banished mould on ceilings, tiles, grout and sealant in bathrooms.

In both instances, I've always sprayed on the product and left it around 15-20 minutes before wiping it away – although most of the time, you can see the spores physically disappear in front of your eyes which is always quite satisfying to watch.

If, however, your bathroom ceiling has more than just a few spores and there is already paint peeling away Andy advises, "first remove any flakey paint or wallpaper and then use a mould-removing solution on the affected area.

"Scrub the mould using the rough side of a scouring sponge (make sure it is one that isn't bright in colour as it may stain) and allow the ceiling to dry."

Our favourite mould removal products

2. Use clear household bleach

If you don't have any removal spray to hand another option to remove mould from a ceiling is with household bleach.

Before grabbing the nearest bottle of bathroom bleach though, don't forget to check it is clear. Anything that is coloured is not suitable as it will likely stain your ceiling, even when diluted.

Although you may be tempted to consider using it neat, the recommended approach is to dilute 250ml with water in either a bowl or spray bottle.

As with the specialist product, spray on, leave to settle and then wipe away with a damp cloth. Once again, the downsides are you'll be left with the chlorine smell and according to Amy, you may also find it takes longer to work.

"I applied it at the recommended strength," says Amy, "but found myself tipping more bleach in as the mould wasn't disappearing particularly quickly. But after leaving it for a good 15 minutes and a bit of scrubbing, the results were much improved but not completely gone."

Avid fans of celebrity cleaning expert, Mrs Hinch, also share their own views on using bleach to remove mould from a ceiling on their dedicated Facebook page.

Some suggest bleach only feeds mould and rather than removing it simply makes it white. Other methods proposed include soaking white paper towel sheets in the bleach solution, applying them to the ceiling and leaving overnight, as well as spraying diluted bleach or a specialist product onto a paintbrush before applying it to the affected areas.

Henry Patterson, on the other hand, is not a fan of bleach. "You can use household bleach to remove black mould," he agrees, "but I wouldn’t recommend this method. Bleach is difficult to work with and can easily cause damage when spilled."

3. Use eco-friendly baking soda or white vinegar

If you prefer to follow author and TV presenter Michelle Ogundehin's approach to a chemical-free life then you may find your kitchen cupboard home to some mould removal products. I once tried her trick of using citric acid as a toilet and bathroom cleaning solution and was hooked!

"Distilled white vinegar can be an effective home remedy for removing black mould from ceilings and other surfaces," says Henry. "Apply from a spray bottle or on a clean cloth. Leave for at least one hour and wash off with a cloth or soft-bristled brush."

"Vinegar is also gentler than bleach," adds Izabela Janiec, "so is less likely to cause damage."

Baking soda (also known as bicarbonate of soda) is also another eco-friendly agent in the bid to clean in a more natural way. If you're using it on an area such as uPVC, you can make a paste using two parts baking soda to one part white vinegar. Simply apply the paste to affected area and leave it for around an hour before wiping away.

On ceilings, this is less practical as the paste is likely to fall off. Instead, make up a solution with lukewarm water in a bowl or spray bottle, apply, leave for around 20-30 minutes and wipe away.

The downsides? It may not work as effectively if the mould has really taken hold and distilled vinegar will leave a residue smell you may find unpleasant.

Recommended ratios:

• Two cups of water to a quarter teaspoon of baking soda
• One part vinegar to two parts water

Causes of mould on ceilings

Mould grows where there is moisture, so making sure mould doesn't grow on your ceiling is about tackling the cause of the moisture.

If the mould is appearing on a ground floor ceiling, this might be a case of checking pipework in the home, or the seals around your bath, shower, sinks and toilet, as well as the pipework there too if the ceiling is below a bathroom.

If the mould-covered ceiling is on the first floor of your home then you'll need to check the loft space to make sure there isn't a leak from your roof or similar.

Assuming you haven't got a leak, then the cause of the mould is likely to be a lack of adequate ventilation. Gordon Winchester, a ventilation control expert at Damp and Mould Control, says the drive for energy efficiency has left many homeowners with not enough air flow through in our homes, and this is exacerbated by how we use our homes.

"The warmer the air, the more moisture it holds. In the winter months when it's colder outside, you'll find the warmer air in the home will absorb the moisture that you produce by boiling the kettle, cooking the spuds, or doing the washing and hanging the clothes over the banister," he says.

"All these things introduce moisture into the air within the home and a lot of the time it can't escape and it just builds up and collects. When you go to bed at night and the heating goes off, the temperature starts to fall and as the temperature falls it reaches a point where it can no longer contain the moisture it has absorbed. It then condenses out."

Gordon explains that this tends to settle on surfaces, such as walls, windows and ceilings, leaving an appealing environment for mould spores that are already "free flowing" in the air around us.

"They settle in the condensed moisture, which can be as little as one micron thick. It might be a very thin sheen of moisture but to the mould spores it's like the deep blue sea. They can then use trace organic materials in the paint or other materials as a food source and when you don't get air flow over the areas to dry it, you'll get mould growth," he says.

Getting good air flow and ventilation in your home is therefore key. You can do this by adding items such as bathroom extractor fans and dehumidifers, such as this Meaco 20L dehumidifer on Amazon.

How to prevent ceiling mould from returning

Unfortunately, while your clean ceiling may give you joy at first, if you haven't dealt with the cause of the problem, it's likely you will need to repeat the procedure on a regular basis – especially during the colder winter months.

• Tackle at source
  "The best way to prevent mould from returning is to tackle it at source," says Henry. "So this means addressing any leaks, condensation or other sources of moisture that are causing the mould." Izabela recommends keeping humidity levels as low as you can, aiming for no higher than 50% all day long. Simple tricks to reduce the amount of moisture in your bathroom can be as simple as making sure you wipe down shower screens after use to ensure the water drains away and doesn't sit on the screen.
• Use dehumidifying solutions
  If it's an on-going problem caused by a poor home ventilation system and you aren't able to commit to a solution to fix this, it may be also worth considering investing in one of the best dehumidifiers to help remove condensation and damp. Our guide on how dehumidifiers work explains the many benefits of these products. For a budget option, "you could also try purchasing some disposable moisture trays – which are a less expensive alternative costing only a couple of pounds each," says Henry. If you have excess moisture around the home you can buy a multi pack of moisture removal trays from Amazon.
• Paint with the right products
  On the other hand, if you've started a home renovation project, have cleared the mould, improved your ventilation and insulation and want to make sure your kitchens and bathrooms are protected for the future "waterproof paint, anti-fungal paints and primers can help prevent mould from growing back," says Andy, "Likewise, waterproof paint should always be used in kitchens and bathrooms due to the moisture in the room." If you know your mould is likely to return, there are also paint products on the market that can withstand future cleaning, such as this Crown scrubbable matt paint available on Amazon.
  

Not encountered mould on your ceiling yet but have spotted it elsewhere? Our guides on how to remove mould from walls without damaging paint and how to remove mould from fabric will help you to sort the problems fast.

Painting ceiling beams can transform them into the perfect fit for your latest renovation project. You can paint them to create some old world charm, introduce a contemporary colour to match the decor for a more subtle finish, or, finish them with a varnish or wax to retain their natural appeal. 

When you paint a room you start with the ceiling and this doesn’t change when painting ceiling beams. But, how you approach the job will depend on whether or not you are using a contrasting colour or finish. Here we run you through the essential steps to make sure your ceiling and ceiling beams both have a flawless finish. 

Painting ceiling beams: Step-by-step guide

1. Prepare the area 

When painting a ceiling you need to cover floors and furniture to protect them from any stray paint. Ideally you want to remove as much furniture as possible from a room to make it easier to paint. If you have expensive wallpaper that you want to keep paint free, protect with dust sheets.

Use painters tape like this ScotchBlue Multi-Surface Premium Masking Tape from Amazon and plastic dust sheets like this 6 Pack of Biodegradable Large Dust Sheets – also from Amazon.  

2. Do your prep 

A beam needs to be cleaned and sanded before any paint is applied. First clean with a solution of sugar soap and cloth or kitchen sponge/scrubber. Then wipe down with clean water and cloth and leave to dry. If you have a heavily textured beam, sugar soap with a scrubbing brush like this Elliott Iron Shaped Scrubbing Brush from Amazon before wiping down with a clean cloth.

Once clean you need to sand down the beams. Use a fine grit sandpaper – 120-180 is good – to ensure good adhesion for the paint. If you have a heavily textured beam use wire wool or wire brushes like these Harris Essentials Mini Wire Brush 3 Pack from Amazon to get into hard to reach areas.  

3. Seal the beam with primer 

When the beam is dry you can start painting. If you are painting your ceiling beams a contrasting colour to the ceiling it's a good idea to apply masking tape to the ceiling – which you should paint first – to ensure that no paint gets on the ceiling and you have neat straight lines. If you are a confident painter and know how to cut in then skip the masking tape.

If you have a textured ceiling beam use a 2-4 inch brush to ensure that you get into all the crevices. If you have relatively flat and smooth beams you can use a 4-inch mini roller like this Harris Seriously Good Walls & Ceilings Medium Pile Mini Roller Sleeves Set from Amazon. If you want a smoother, less textured finish you a 4-inch foam roller. 

4. Finish with a top coat

If painting your ceiling beam use a brush or roller and apply in the same way as the primer, but, “Keep in mind the direction of the wood grain as it will help accentuate the lines.” suggests Daniel Cabrera, founder of Sell My House Fast SA TX.

Leave to dry as recommended by the manufacturer. Give the beam a light sand, wipe clean and apply a second coat and leave to dry. If applying a different finish – like whitewashing wood for a distressed effect or waxing to create a fake beam effect – check you have the necessary tools to do the job.   

FAQs

What kind of paint do you use on ceiling beams? 

The type of material and condition of the beam will determine what you should use. But as a general rule – whether you are painting wood or faux beams – you should start with a good solid primer like this Zinsser BIN Primer-Sealer from Amazon. This will seal porous wood, help cover dark colours, stop stains coming through and help provide good adhesion for the top coat.

After applying the primer – you may need two, or even three on dark colours – you can add a top coat. This could be emulsion to match the ceiling, but a hard-wearing paint in the finish of your choice is a better option. This could be matt, eggshell, satin or any other type of paint will work if your prep is good and the paint applied properly.  

Cabrera recommends for wooden beams, “A semi-gloss or gloss paint that will make it easier to clean the surfaces of the beam, and make the glossiness stand out compared to the matte ceiling.” 

What colour should I paint my ceiling beams? 

This will depend on the colour scheme you are looking to introduce. A contrasting colour will make the beams stand out while painting the same colour as the ceiling will see them blend in.

Mandy Rippon, Product Manager at Frenchic Paint has a few suggestions to give different looks including a natural-look hack for dark beams, “If you want to lighten things up, there is a great hack which allows you to give dark stained or previously painted beams an authentic-looking wood effect without going to the expense and mess of stripping the surface. Apply Lazy Range Crème de la Crème paint and finish with Browning Wax – it sits in the wood’s texture, looking amazingly natural.”

Rippon also suggests creating a whitewashed look, “If your beams are unpainted or stained and you don’t want to lose the wood look completely, another option is to soften their appearance with a whitewashed or limed look. This means the grain and character of the wood are still visible, but the wood tone is lightened.” 

When painting ceiling beams you might want to consider painting a ceiling as well to complete the look. And, to get a smart matching finish in a room, think about painting walls and painting skirting boards at the same time. 

Do you want to know how to stop condensation on walls? Then you have come to the right place. Condensation may seem harmless but it can lead to unwelcome issues such as mould growing on your walls and ceilings. This isn’t good for your decor or your health.

So what is condensation? What causes it and what can you do to stop creating it? Here we take a closer look at some easy quick fixes and smart solutions that can help eliminate condensation as well as ways of dealing with more difficult issues such as mould and damp. 

How to stop condensation on walls

Here we take a look at easy to introduce solutions that will help stop condensation in the home and help reduce the causes.  

1. Ventilate, ventilate, ventilate

When warm air hits a cold surface – like an external wall or window – condensation in the form of water moisture makes an appearance. Condensation in conservatories, kitchens and bathrooms is common, simply because they’re areas where a lot of warm air is produced.

Making sure a room is well ventilated is one simple way to help stop condensation forming and getting rid of it as Chris Michael, Managing Director at Meaco, explains, “If you bring fresh air into the house by opening a window, then the same amount of air will leave the house. Some of the damp air will be forced outside as a result.” 

But when it's cold outside it's not always an effective solution as Michael continues, “However, during winter months the air coming in from outside will be colder and damper than the air inside, having a minimal effect on condensation. With energy bills so high, people do not want to let warm air escape or to allow a cold draught in the home.”

2. Get a dehumidifier

Want to know how to reduce humidity in a house, then a dehumidifier is a great solution as Michael explains, “A dehumidifier removes excess indoor humidity to prevent condensation from forming. It reduces indoor humidity to healthy levels.”

He continues with a list of dehumidifier benefits – like the Meaco 20L Low Energy dehumidifier, which scored well in Homebuilding’s review – including the following:  

• Instant impact – The quickest way to remove excess moisture and dry the air inside
• Energy efficiency - Affordable to run. Models with a humidistat will switch off when target humidity reached to save electricity
• Protects health and home - Prevents mould from forming

3. Keep your heat consistent

Only keeping one room toasty and leaving the others cold will not help improve a condensation problem. The key to keeping condensation at bay is to provide a consistent heat across all rooms, so there isn’t a steep drop in temperature from room to room. Heat up a regularly used room to around 21 degrees, while keeping other less commonly used rooms at around 18 degrees. 

To help make this happen the radiators in your home should have TRV’s installed. If not call in a professional to install or learn how to fit thermostatic radiator valves yourself. 

4. Install extractor fans

Opening windows and doors in your home to ventilate a room isn’t always a viable option. No-one wants to open a window in the middle of winter and let in a blast of freezing cold air. A simple solution is to install an extractor fan in high humidity areas such as the kitchen and bathroom to remove moisture as it is created. This will greatly reduce the chances of condensation forming on walls and ceilings. Which in turn helps nullify the appearance of damp and mould.

Note that kitchens and bathrooms need a specific type of extractor fan to work effectively. Check out our best bathroom extractors fan and best kitchen extractor fan guides for a collection of top choices. 

5. Move your furniture

Placing furniture such as bookshelves and cupboards directly against an outside wall can lead to condensation and ultimately mould. A lack of a gap means that there is no air circulating behind the furniture to help move away any moisture in the air. The simple solution here is to move your furniture at least 100mm from the wall to allow air to circulate between the wall and the furniture.

If mould has started to form on the wall there are a few techniques for removing mould from walls that will help get rid of the mould and kill off the spores to stop it returning.    

How to stop condensation on walls FAQs

Why am I getting condensation on my walls? 

Typically the reason that you are getting condensation on your walls is due to warm air hitting a cold wall. This is typically an outside wall that is obviously exposed to the colder temperatures. 

You will notice that condensation is more prevalent in the winter and colder months of the year. Condensation rarely makes an appearance in the summer months because there isn’t such a difference in temperatures and there is less moisture in the air.

How do you insulate a cold wall from inside? 

If your external walls are noticeably colder during the winter months you probably lack insulation and need to think about insulating a wall or walls to help keep the heat in and the cold out.

Most homes will have cavity walls, so installing cavity wall insulation is the obvious choice. However, if you live in an older home with solid walls you will need to look at internal wall insulation to improve conditions.

A quick and budget friendly option is to introduce insulating wallpaper, which contains a thin layer of insulate to help reduce the heat transfer through walls. It is not as effective as introducing insulation in a wall, but it can still help. 

Ashley Walters, 41, has seen two planning applications rejected to extend his bungalow, which he claims his family has outgrown.

The former So Solid Crew member bought the home based in Kent in 2021 for £815,000 but has since sought planning permission to extend his family home, as well as other renovations.

However, Canterbury City Council have turned down the proposals with Walters now claiming he may be forced to leave the area entirely as the home no longer suits his family's needs.

What are the plans?

Mr Walters' attempts to secure extensions for his chalet bungalow have been rejected twice by planning officers at Canterbury City Council. 

The initial proposal included adding two-storey extensions at the front and rear, while the second proposed a two-storey front extension and a single-storey extension to the rear where he hopes to build a balcony.

Additionally, Mr Walters aims to create a home cinema, and add a swimming pool and gym in his back garden.

Extension needed for growing family, Walters claims

In the event his bungalow renovation plans are not approved, Walters said that he intends to search for a new residence for himself, his wife, and their two children.

He said: “It’s highly likely that if we can't get it the way we want to, we'll have to move out of this part of Kent.

"Our kids are settled in school here, so it's not like we'll be going back to London. We would just have to find somewhere else locally that suits our needs.”

He says the bungalow extension is needed due to his daughters growing. He added: "It’s about making it slightly bigger in height because it's a bungalow conversion.

“The top floor is essentially in the roof, which means you're kind of ducking and as the kids grow they'll be banging heads on the ceiling. So we are just trying to make that a bit higher.

“The swimming pool and stuff in the back is not the thing that's being contested. It’s the main property."

Extension rejected as it was deemed an 'incongruous addition'

Canterbury City Council rejected the planning permission for the extensions claiming it would be "overly prominent" for the area, which are "small-scale character" homes.

They stated: “The proposed extensions relate poorly with the existing property and as such the overall development would fail to have sufficient regard for the context and character of the site.”

A spokesperson for the council explained: “The most recent application was refused on the grounds that its scale, form, design, appearance and prominence would relate poorly to the design of the existing building and would appear as an incongruous addition to the host property.

“It would also harm the visual quality of the street scene and the character and appearance of the area contrary to policies DBE3 and DBE6 of the Canterbury District Local Plan 2017 and Paragraph 130 of the National Planning Policy Framework.

“The applicant has appealed this decision as is their right and this matter will now be considered by the independent Planning Inspectorate."

Modern and stylish, render is one of the most versatile cladding solutions on the market, and there are many different reasons why you may want to add it to your home. From weather proofing and damp resistance, to improving thermal performance and boosting kerb appeal.

While from the outside render can seem fairly complex, it’s a lot easier to understand than you may think. With it being a specialist trade, there tends to be a lot of jargon involved which may leave you unsure about what kind of render is best to meet your specific needs and planning requirements.

In this comprehensive guide from leading Italian render manufacturer Fassa Bortolo, you’ll learn how to distinguish the key differences and discover what you need to know before choosing your render system.

Are there any good all-rounder renders?

Most people considering house rendering will be after a reliable, easy-to-apply render that can be used on a multitude of surfaces — but where to start?

While there are many different types of render, those that contain silicone and acrylic are usually a good option as they are less likely to crack and offer better weather-resistance than many basic cement renders.

Consisting of two parts, a substrate compatible base coat that binds the materials, and a hard-wearing top coat, Fassarend is attractive and highly resistant to weathering. It is even possible to apply to a timber frame home, using a render carrier board such as Fassa Externa Light, which is then fixed to timber batons.

The finishing render can contain materials such as silicone or acrylic which varies depending on the location and look of the build, as well as the amount of resistance needed to protect the building against the weather and other elements. These additives contribute to the weather-resistant properties and require less maintenance, allowing walls to look better for longer.

Which render also offers insulation?

If you live in a property where there is no cavity wall insulation and no chance of adding it in (as is often the case in houses with solid walls, for example) it is useful to consider external wall insulation (EWI) systems.

One popular EWI system is Fassatherm. Its main function is to keep a building warm, saving energy and reducing the risk of damp through condensation. Made up of an insulation board base, reinforcing mesh coats and a finishing render, the insulation usually comes in the form of mineral wool or expanded polystyrene (EPS). Different thicknesses of insulation can be used to meet any U-value (energy retaining) requirements.

The Fassatherm system can be fixed to many different substrates, including timber, masonry and SFS (Steel frame solution) which makes it an incredibly versatile option. Choosing the correct build up is a decision made during the design process, and your applicator should be able to advise on the more technical specifics, including insulation and finish thickness.

Which is the best render for renovation projects?

If you are renovating an older property a breathable finish is essential for the house to work as it was originally intended and to avoid problems with damp occurring. 

Lime plaster is often chosen but can be a little harder to apply than regular Portland cement. Thankfully there are a few alternatives on the market. 

Ideal for renovating listed and heritage buildings, Fassalime’s restoration line, Ex Novo, will transform both interiors and external facades. Ex Novo has a breathable finish, making it the ultimate choice for renovation projects where damp has been an issue. With its permeable properties, moisture is able to pass through the walls and as a result, it helps to eliminate damp spots and creates a living space with fresher, cleaner air.

Are coloured renders easy to apply?

If you are looking to give your home a makeover or ensure it's kerb appeal is up to scratch, you might like to consider a monocouche (or single layer) render. 

One product worth a look is Fassacouche. Available in a range of colours, Fassacouche ticks all the boxes with a simple, one-coat solution. A standard monocouche render, it is generally applied to masonry substrates. Very popular for easily creating an attractive aesthetic, thanks to its fuss free application, Fassacouche is very easy to work with. Choose from a variety of finishes for added texture, including scratched, floated or smooth.

Who are Fassa Bortolo?

Built on 313 years of solid foundations, Fassa Bortolo is the industry expert in renders and integrated render systems. Proud of its longstanding Italian heritage, the company prides itself on its unrivalled product quality, innovative state-of-the-art research facilities and dedicated commitment to ethical quarrying.

Fassa Bortolo boast an expansive spectrum of colours, with the Fassalime, Fassarend and Fassatherm systems offering 365 unique colour combinations as standard. With investment in the latest technology, Fassa are able to pair existing shades with colour tinting machines to unlock unlimited potential, matching any colour, including RAL.

Head to the Fassa website or call 01684 218305 to enquire about approved applicators in your area. These tradespeople attend regular training days to ensure correct application and the very best knowledge of ever changing regulations and requirements.

Considering plasterboard costs for your new build or partition wall? It's a critical part of the pricing process, but costs can vary greatly depending on what type of plasterboard you’re using, how much you're using and what type of finish you are going to use. 

Are you going to do the plasterboarding yourself? Are you going to paint straight onto the plasterboard or plaster? Are you going to call in a professional to help? All these considerations can have a big effect on the price. Here look at the different types of plasterboard and their costs, plasterboard alternatives and how much you can expect to pay a plasterer. 

Plasterboard costs: Six smart answers to common questions

The cost of plasterboard depends on sizes and types, plus you need to think about installation, finishes and whether you need the help of a professional.

How much does plasterboard cost?

“The cost of plasterboard is dependent upon multiple factors such as quality, brand, size, and type” reveals Chris Moorhouse, category director – timber, building, décor, garden – at Wickes. It's not easy to pinpoint how much plasterboard costs, as there’s a wide variety of prices depending on what plasterboard you are purchasing for your project. 

But to help put the range of costs into focus, Moorhouse tells Homebuilding what you can get at the low end of the price scale, “Prices start from as little as £8.30 for the Knauf Baseboard Square Edge at Wickes.” He continues, “This is ideal for building partitions or patching up existing panelling, this compact plasterboard is designed for convenience as it is easy to use, carry, transport and install.”

Thicker plasterboard – 12.5mm is a popular choice for most DIY projects – and larger sizes mean you will be paying more. National hardware stores like B&Q charge around £12 for a standard square edge sheet of 12.5mm x 1200mm x 2400mm plasterboard like this Gyproc Standard Plasterboard from B&Q . 

A specialist plasterboard like this Gyproc SoundBloc Plasterboard from B&Q provides improved sound proofing. A higher density gypsum core adds around 10 kg to a standard size sheet with the price being over double that of standard plasterboard. 

What are the different types of plasterboard?

“Plasterboard comes in a variety of finishes and each is suitable for different needs”, explains Moorhouse.  “This is best determined by the specific project where the plasterboard will be used. You can choose from tapered edge for drylining, standard plasterboard for skimming, or specialist boards such as fire, moisture and sound resistant.”

Check out our types of plasterboard guide to get an insight into the different options available and what they are commonly used for. 

What sizes do plasterboard sheets come in?

When it comes to plasterboard sizes there are two considerations – the thickness of the board and the width and height of the board.  There are two common options for thickness – 9.5mm and 12.5mm, with 12.5mm being the most popular. 

Which thickness should you use? If you are building a partition wall then 9.5mm plasterboard is the common choice for 400mm spaced studs and 12.5mm for 600mm spaced studs. But you might want better insulation or sound proofing, so a thicker board can be a better choice. The cost between the two thicknesses is typically negibile.

Size wise there are a lot of options but the most commonly used are 1200mm x 2400mm, 900mm x 1800mm and 900mm x 1200mm boards. The 2400mm board is a popular choice as it is equivalent to eight foot - the common ceiling height in UK homes. Smaller boards are also popular as they are easier to carry and mean less cutting for smaller spaces.  

How much is a 8 x 4 sheet of plasterboard?

This is a common question, but plasterboard is no longer measured in feet and inches. The old imperial measurement, commonly known as eight by four plasterboard has been replaced with 2400mm x 1200mm plasterboard, which is slightly smaller. The metric measurement makes it the perfect fit when building a partition wall which will have stud centres of 400mm or 600mm. 

The prices for 2400mm x 1200mm plasterboard will vary depending on brand, type and retailer. But expect to pay around £12 for a standard everyday 12.5mm sheet of plasterboard. Specialist options such as moisture resistant or fire resistant plasterboard will cost around another 60-70% extra.

What is the cost of plasterboard alternatives?

The name plasterboard typically refers to gypsum plasterboard. Gypsum is the material that sits in between two sheets of paper to create the common everyday plasterboard. While there are a few different types of plasterboard, it's a popular choice as it is affordable and relatively easy to work with.

However, it is not the most environmentally friendly option. But there are a host of plasterboard alternatives out there that can compete on affordability, whilst others are typically more expensive but offer something different. 

For example, sheets of plywood typically cost more than gypsum plasterboard, but don't need to be plastered, give a contemporary wood finish and can come from sustainable sources. 

Wood wool boards are similarly priced as standard gypsum plasterboard, but again are typically made from sustainable sources. They are 100% recyclable being made from long strands of wood and a cement binder and offer good insulation.

So, if you are looking to go green on a project – and not necessarily spend any more – make sure to check out the alternative options. You know it makes sense. 

How much do plasterers charge per m2?

There is a lot of variation in prices depending on different factors. These include where you live – London being typically more expensive than other parts of the country. What type of job is it - are you just putting up plasterboard? Is it wet plastering? Are the walls being skimmed? Is the ceiling being plastered as well as walls? Is it a specialist plaster finish? How large is the area? What are the costs for materials? All these considerations make a difference.

As a general guideline expect to pay around £200- £250 a day for labour charges plus materials. A small room will be around £1000 all in for full wet plastering, while skimming plasterboard will be around half the price.  

Got an ugly, old, crumbling wall? Then learn how to render a wall and you won’t any more. It's one of the popular reasons that a wall gets a makeover as builder Chris Longhurst explains, “A wall that has been standing for many years grows tired and looks shabby. Walls are subject to damage. That’s when a wall looks like it needs a lift and a good way to do that is to render it.”

Giving brick or blocks a smart new look enhances the ambience of your outdoor space and the beauty of render is that you can paint it a colour that matches your garden design. Here we look at how to render a wall, how to choose and lay the render and the best way to finish.  

How to render a garden wall: a step by step guide 

Here we guide you through the process of rendering a garden wall with the help of expert builder Chris Longhurst. 

1. Remove old render and prepare for new render

If your wall has old render the first thing you will need to do is remove it with a hammer and masonry bolster like the Magnusson Masonry Brick bolster & guard from B&Q. If you’re rendering an old brick wall you will need to remove a brick from a wall if it's damaged and replace it.

Other bricks might just need repairing as builder Chris Longhurst reveals, “Very often garden walls have bricks that have slight spalling, this is where the face of the brick has blown off. If the spalling is deep then before attempting to render the wall you will need to repair the damaged bricks, if it’s deep spalling then replace the brick. If it’s shallow spalling then fill with cement mortar until flush, then slightly scratch the cement before it hardens.”

Once your wall has been repaired you will need to clean and prepare as Longhurst explains, “After repairing the wall and scraping any moss, or loose mortar from the face of the wall using a wire brush and a light soft brushing down. Paint the wall with an SBR sealer, this seals the wall and helps the mortar from drying out too quickly. Another good tip is to paint the wall with a blue/red grip paint. This helps the first coat mortar from sagging, this is best used on walls with low suction such as engineering bricks.” 

2. Choose and mix render 

There are a few options when choosing render as Longhurst reveals, “There are many 25kg premixed rendering products that you just add water to the compound and you’re ready to go.” 

Tarmac One coat Render from B&Q is one such product, but the alternative is to make your own as Longhurst goes on to say, “However, these can work out more expensive than using sand and cement. The correct sand is a render sand, it’s in between a soft building sand and a sharp grit sand. If you have a large area it’s cheaper to buy a ton of rendering sand and loose bags of cement.”

If mixing your own the ratio is typically six parts sand, one part cement and one part lime which helps prevent the render from cracking once it has dried. Use a hydrated lime like Blue Circle Hydrated lime from B&Q.  But you can use three parts sand, one part cement for a scratch coat. 

3. Apply first coat of render

Before you add any render you need to measure up and cut your corner bead. This can be bedded into the base/first coat or add before you start rendering. Put render on the edges and press in the bead. Typically you need to look for 10-12mm corner bead. 

Start by getting a mixing trowel and adding your render to a plastering hawk like the Draper ABS Plasterers Hawk from Amazon, fill so you have around half a hawk full. Now get a plastering trowel like this Spear & Jackson Stainless Plastering Trowel from Amazon.

Start at the top and work left to right. Get a trowel full of render, hold at 45 degrees and push up onto the wall and roughly even out and repeat. Longhurst reveals how deep the base coat should be, how to smooth out and finish, “Apply a first coat called a scratch coat, apply to a depth of 5mm, ranging it flat with a straight edge, then run a scratch coating comb over the rendered area. When this coat has been allowed to set for at least two days, then a second coat is applied.” 

4. Apply second coat of render and finish 

When the base coat is ready it's time to apply the second using your chosen render as Longhurst explains, “First wet the scratch coat with diluted SBR, apply the second render coat at 5mm, flatten with a ranging stick, then float with a sponge until the render is flat.” 

What is SBR and why use it in render? 

Builder Chris Longhurst suggests that you seal the wall with SBR, “The best way to seal the wall is with SBR”. But what is SBR? SBR (Styrene Butadiene Rubber) is a bonding and waterproofing additive used when rendering exterior walls. It helps the render bond to the wall and improves water resistance.  

What is the best way to finish render on a garden wall? 

After a garden wall has been rendered and sealed with SBR (see above) you can leave if you are happy to have a natural finish. But, typically render is painted to fit its surrounding aesthetic and add more weather protection.

The best masonry paints such as Sandtex Masonry Paint and Dulux Weathershield Smooth will add long lasting weather protection as well as giving your wall a clean  even finish. 

Exactly what is a wall hung toilet and what can it offer that other types of toilet can't? 

While a toilet is obviously something of a must-have item in every household, not all toilets are the same — design, cost and the way in which they need to be installed can all differ hugely depending on the style you opt for. 

There are multiple styles of toilet to choose from, all suitable for different bathrooms designs and individual needs. In this handy guide, we explain what constitutes a wall hung toilet, how they different from other types of toilet and their pros and cons. 

What is a wall hung toilet?

Whether you are after downstairs toilet ideas, or need a new loo for your family bathroom, you will be faced with several different options when it comes to models. 

In the case of wall hung toilets, they offer a far more sleek and modern look in general than more traditional close coupled toilets.

"Just like the name suggests, a wall hung toilet hangs on the wall and is kept in place thanks to a framework system installed behind it," says home design, interiors and lifestyle journalist Lindsay Blair. 

Wall hung toilets can be bought in kit form, complete with the pan and a concealed cistern system or you can buy the elements separately. 

"Wall hung toilets are supported by a frame that is mounted within your wall. The wall hung toilet is then mounted on this frame which allows it to 'hang' off the wall without anything supporting the base," further explains Dominic Lees Bell at Drench. 

How are wall hung toilets installed? 

In order to install a wall hung toilet it is usually necessary to build a small stud wall to house the frame that will support the pan, as well as the cistern itself. Mounting frames can be picked up from most bathroom suppliers.

Concealed cisterns can be as thin as 75mm making them perfect for those after small bathroom ideas and are easy to fit within the cavity of a new stud wall or within a furniture unit. 

Wondering how to access the system should something go wrong? Worry not — you won't need to start ripping away your tiles to get to your cistern.

"A well-designed bathroom needs to be easy to maintain," says Dominic Lees Bell. "This is where the flush plate comes in. These plates very simply lift off and provide all the access you will ever need to the concealed cistern behind."

When it comes to the height of your wall hung toilet, you have much more flexibility than with a close coupled toilet. There is no set height you have to hang your toilet at, but do think about what will be comfortable for you and other bathroom users. As a guide, the average height of a toilet is 420-430mm.

Is there a wall hung toilet weight limit?

Yes, there is but this should not present too many problems for the majority.

"A properly installed frame and wall hung toilet combination should comfortably support 200kg (30 stone) or more," explains Drench's Dominic Lees Bell. "If you're of a stocky build we don't recommend that you 'drop' down on it heavily but in all our years as a bathroom retailer we have never heard of a wall hung toilet breaking off from the wall, or pulling down the entire stud wall.

"Again, it stands to reason that you be selective with your choice of bathroom installer. An experienced plumber will know exactly how to install the toilet so it safely stands the test of time."

What are the pros and cons of wall hung toilets?

Just as with all types of toilet, there are advantages and disadvantages of wall hung toilets and knowing what these are should help you make an informed decision on whether this is the best option for you. 

Advantages of wall hung toilets: 

• Easy to clean: Unlike floor-mounted toilets, the space beneath the pan is completely clear, making it easy to clean thoroughly. In addition, the design of most wall hung toilet pans is usually very fuss free meaning fewer nooks and crannies for germs and dirt to hide. 
• Height flexibility: You get to decide the height of the pan based on your needs. 
• Minimalist finish: No pipes or cistern make for a sleek appearance, perfect for those after modern bathroom ideas. 
• Space saving: "Without the extra bulk of a visible cistern sitting on the pan they take up much less space in the bathroom, and can be placed closer to furniture, shower enclosures, or whatever else you are planning for your bathroom," explains Dominic Lees Bell. "And it's not just the physical space they save. The fact that they are not sitting on the floor creates the illusion of a more spacious bathroom, with less clutter taking up floor space."
• Can provide storage: With some planning, the stud wall you use to conceal the frame and cistern of the toilet can also be designed to house some handy storage. 

Disadvantages of wall hung toilets:

• More expensive: Once you have bought the pan, cistern, flush plate, frame and materials needed to construct the frame, they tend to be more costly than a standard floor-mounted toilet. 
• Tricky to replace: Should you want to change your toilet or it somehow becomes damaged, it will be harder to take it out without causing a fair amount of disruption. 
• Professional installation required: Fitting a wall hung toilet tends to be far more involved than with a floor-mounted model and unless your are a confident DIYer, professional input is usually recommended. 

What does the average wall hung toilet cost?

So, the big question, how much do wall hung toilets cost? Of course, just as with all types of toilet and other items of bathroom sanitaryware, there is no set price and what you pay will very much depend on the supplier and the style of toilet you opt for. 

"A stylish wall hung toilet can cost as little as £120," says Dominic Lees Bell. "The hidden frame and cistern required to support the toilet then adds another £150-£250, depending on whether you opt for a decent quality budget brand, or something more top-of-the-line. So the overall cost of the actual parts is a little higher than a standard close-coupled toilet, but certainly not out of reach for those looking to invest in a stylish bathroom they can be proud of for years to come."

Don't forget to factor in the cost of installation work when working out the cost of fitting a bathroom either. 

"If you are serious about going wall hung, make sure you have a good bathroom fitter who has experience installing these toilets. It might be a cliche, but you get what you pay for, and the cheapest installation quote is rarely value-for-money," warns Dominic. 

The former 'A Place in the Sun' presenter has revealed his latest renovation achievements to his Newcastle home that he moved to in 2020. 

Jonnie, 49, and his wife Jessica Holmes, 40, and their three sons decided to move closer to home and bought the property, which he described as "not the prettiest of houses" in order to turn it into a family home.

Jonnie announced he had terminal cancer in 2022, but carried on with his planned renovations regardless — showing that anything is possible when renovating a house.

Extended home with help from family and friends

Jonnie and his family previously lived in Hertfordshire, but relocated to his new home in Newcastle in 2020.

He explained in an interview with HELLO! in 2020 that it was "part of a very intelligent masterplan" during lockdown to move closer to his family before the birth of his twins. "The idea was to extend our family home, so we got planning permission. I filled the van up and we came here, and just got bedded into the house," Jonnie said.

The brown brick home has undergone many changes with a white-panelled extension being placed above the garage, as well as the front door being moved to the centre of the house with a new porch extension being placed above it, all done with the help of his family and friends.

He added: "Since being up here we realise how great it is to have family and friends close by. They’ve all waded in and helped and never made it feel like they were doing us a favour."

Painted living room green with velvet corner sofa

A huge upgrade was made to Jonnie's living room, which formed "Phase 1" of his renovation.

He added a new log burner, built-in storage cabinets, and painted the walls green, before adding a large velvet corner sofa and a wall-mounted TV.

Jonnie commented on his Instagram: "Previously a cold virtually unused part of the house has been transformed whilst in keeping with the original 60’s character. The main difference has been to punch through the south-facing wall and create an enormous view onto the garden via a bespoke aluminium window.

"This idea rightfully had its doubters but I think the gamble has paid off. Replacement windows and sliding doors match the design and profiles which is key. The stove in the corner even makes this large room cosy in the cold weather."

He added that he thought even "Don Draper would approve!"

Used salmon tiles and grout for a colour drench look

The renovation didn't end there as the bathroom was completely ripped out and started afresh.

The couple decided on salmon, black and grey coloured tiles in their bathroom, with underfloor heating also installed.

He claimed Jessica "scoured the globe for pink grout" as well as other products, which were difficult to find, but eventually, their "hotel feel en suite", as he described was finished.

He commented: "This was a bit of a gamble knocking into the fitted wardrobe next door in order to make a decent en suite but thanks to the storage currently being built it looks like it paid off."

Difficulties with the overhanging eave

Jonnie home renovation didn't all go to plan after some issues were found when completing the facia, which formed part of the extension.

The facia (vertical band under a roof's edge) was applied and done with a Fatra single-ply membrane, which is a versatile, cost-effective, flexible roofing surface and can be applied to plywood, concrete and metal decking.

However, when it was revealed Jonnie stated "we were all disappointed with the end result" as "the bubbles of welding underneath were visible".

Instead, he and his family went back and applied an aluminium instead. This, he claimed, produced a much better result and was "impressed" and "grateful" with the results.

Underneath the overhang to the rear of the property, there is a cedar soffit (the underside of an arch, a balcony attached to a home that helps keep moisture away from the rafters), which offered a cheaper alternative to help the family renovate on a budget.

This property offers brilliant home renovation ideas for your project and shows what can be done in difficult circumstances and with help from one's friends and family.

The way in which painted ceiling ideas can completely change the way a space looks and feels is surprising, yet many people still assume that white is the only shade for their fifth wall. 

No matter what types of ceiling you have in your home, do consider how painting them could add a whole new dimension to the room — you can use colour or texture to make a space feel bigger, a low ceiling appear higher than it really is or just as a striking focal point to inject some character or personality.

Here, we showcase a whole range of ideas, from those designed to highlight original period features, to ways of brightening up a child's bedroom.

How can painted ceiling ideas make a room feel bigger?

Just as the shade you choose to paint your walls in can affect how big or small a room feels, so too can the way in which you approach your ceiling ideas. 

Painting a ceiling a darker shade than the walls will visually bring the ceiling down, while painting it in a lighter colour than that used on the walls will vertically stretch the room. 

If it is an overall expansion of the space that you are aiming for, matching the ceiling colour to the walls is a great idea. 

1. Create a cosy cocoon 

To conure up a sense of being utterly cocooned and protected, painting your ceiling the same colour as your walls is the best method. 

Use a deep, warm shade as opposed to something overly bright or anything with cooler undertones. 

This gorgeous green bedroom has been painted in Earthborn's Hobby Wood — a bold woodland green that is both warm and calming so perfect for spaces meant for relaxation such as bedroom, snugs and living rooms. 

2. Use paint to highlight original features

If you are lucky enough to have original ceiling and wall mouldings in your home, such as ceiling roses, architrave and picture rails, do all you can to ensure they stand out.

This living room has been painted using products from Annie Sloan. The decorative cornicing and picture rail have been picked out in fresh white, while the walls and ceiling have been covered in neutral, earthy tones. 

3. Create a colour block effect

There is no reason why you can't use several colours together on your walls and ceiling — in fact painting the upper sections of your walls and your ceiling a totally different shade to that used elsewhere can really help add character, as well as another element to an otherwise plain space. 

This serene living room has been given a colour block effect using Earthborn's Milk Jug above the picture rail and Crocky Road, a cool beige, on the walls.

4. Have fun with paint effects in children's bedrooms

When it comes to bedroom ideas for the younger members of the family, have fun with paint and use the ceiling to ensure all the senses are stimulated. From calming sky scenes to fanciful patterns, really let your imagination run wild. 

In this nursery, a lively circus tent feel has been created using Farrow & Ball's paints on the ceiling in a stripy pattern, with a serene baby blue used elsewhere in the space. 

5. Paint a sloping ceiling fresh white to make a space feel airy 

While sloping ceilings can add character and charm to a room, if they are very low they can feel a little oppressive, as it sometimes the case in certain types of loft conversion. 

Your choice of ceiling paint can play a an important role here in helping to keep things feeling roomy and spacious. In this stylish loft bedroom, the walls have been painted a grey/mauve while the ceiling has been given a lick of brilliant white paint to help lift the space. 

6. Use a two tone effect to make a ceiling seem higher

After ceiling ideas for a rooms with low ceilings? Low ceilings can make a space feel dark and slightly uncomfortable in certain cases but they way in which you decorate them can have a massive effect on this.

Aim to keep the ceiling lighter or the same shade as the rest of the room or, as has been done here, using paints from Farrow & Ball, paint the upper portions of your walls and ceilings one shade lighter than the colour you have used on the walls. Not only will this distract the eye from the height of the room, but it will also create the illusion of the ceiling being higher than it really is. 

7. Open up a space with an all over colour

Using the same colour all over – also known as 'colour drenching' – is a fantastic way to make a space feel more spacious as well as visually drawing spaces together and contributes towards a nice sense of flow within a layout. 

Here, the gentle and light tones of Peach Baby by Earthborn have been used to pull the dining room and kitchen together visually — painting the ceiling in a coordinating shade brings a peaceful vibe to the whole space.  

8. Use your ceiling to pick up on shades used elsewhere

Painting your ceiling in a bold shade that still works well with the wall colour is a great way to add drama and interest to a room — it is a particularly good tip for those after living room paint ideas with a difference. 

Take inspiration from this super stylish living room, painted using colours from Farrow & Ball, and consider using the same shade you paint your ceiling in for other areas of the space, such as within alcoves or for the walls of the room that leads directly off the area. 

9. Inject personality with a bold overhead shade

Absolutely any style of room can benefit from this idea, whether you are working with a rather featureless new room or one packed full of interesting original features. Simply keep the walls a fresh, neutral shade and pick an eye-popping colour for the ceiling — you can expect instant interest and character. 

In this home office. the pale shade of pink used on the walls, Donkey Ride from Earthborn, has been paired with a hot pink overhead, Delilah, also from Earthborn. 

10. Paint beams a fresh white

While ceiling beams are a charming feature which are often very prized by owners of period properties, they can sometimes make a room feel a little oppressive or claustrophobic.

Painting beams a pale, fresh shade or whitewashing them is a great way to retain all the charm they bring while lightening the whole space. In this stylish kitchen diner, the white of the ceiling beams works brilliantly with the powdery blue of the units and chairs.  

11. Use decorative objects to bring a look together

For a cohesive and 'pulled together' look you should aim to reference the colours used for your walls and ceiling within the rest of your decor scheme. While painting a ceiling in a bold shade is a brilliant idea, do take time to consider how you will ensure the colour works well with the rest of the room.

In this cosy living room within the home of Gareth Young (@gareth_at_keeperscottage) the bold, warming terracotta shade – Flower Pot from Earthborn – works so well with the tan leather armchair and the slatey greys of the accessories and column radiator. 

12. Reflect light off your ceiling in a dark room

Your choice of ceiling paint can work wonders in helping to make a gloomy room seem lighter and brighter than it really is. Using a paint with a slight sheen to it can help to reflect any light entering the room, as well as creating some interesting visual effects. 

In this room, the light entering the space via the clerestory windows is maximised by the pale, sheen of the ceiling paint and the soft pink of the walls — both from Farrow & Ball. 

13. Frame larger items of furniture with pattern

All kinds of clever effects can be created by painting ceilings and walls in various patterns. One great idea is to conjure up the illusion of a 3D frame around a large item of furniture, such as a sofa or a bed — a great one for those after master bedroom ideas with a twist. 

Here, a chequerboard effect has been created, using Calming Blue and Serene Peach from YesColours — framing the bed and taking the whole scheme to another level. 

14. Turn your ceiling into the focal point

Make the ceiling the star of the show by using it as a blank canvass on which to express your personality. This is also a great way to draw the eye away from the walls in a small space. This kind of effect works best in rooms with higher ceilings — it can feel overwhelming in those with low ceiling heights. 

In this bedroom, bold red and white stripes have been created using paints from Farrow & Ball. Using a product such as Fabsome Multi-Surface Painters Masking Tape from Amazon will make short work of these kinds of paint effects. 

Spotting cracks in ceilings can leave you worrying about what the problem might be. In some cases, cracks can signal serious structural issues. But don’t panic straight away, they are usually a natural sign of a building ageing rather than an indication of imminent ceiling collapse.

How you repair old ceilings depends on whether the problem is superficial or structural. How can you tell if your ceiling is simply showing its age or hinting at something more concerning? Here, we explore when to relax and when it’s wise to call in professionals.

Causes of cracks in ceilings

Andrew Pemberton, senior manager of the Professional Snagging Company, says, “Minor hairline cracks are the most common in new-builds.” He adds, “We rarely see large cracks over 3mm wide."

The reasons behind cracks can differ. Pemberton shares some of the reasons why they happen: "From our experience, ceiling cracks can appear in new builds during frequent temperature changes, which causes the timber beams to expand and then shrink. This causes hairline cracks to appear on ceilings.” He adds, “When there are temperature changes due to seasonality, this is more common.”

Another reason can be poor construction work, explains Pemberton, “We have also seen tape-related cracks appear in ceilings. The most common cause, from our experience, is sanding the joints before the joint compound is completely dry. ”It's worth noting that all buildings move, and because joints between materials are a potential weak point, any related stresses tend to show up unless disguised by tapes or coving, etc.

Traditional lath-and-plaster ceilings (mostly pre-1930s) are less robust than modern plasterboard and less able to accommodate movement or water leakage, potentially allowing thick sections of plaster to loosen and ultimately drop off. Older properties are also more susceptible to seasonal changes in ground conditions and temperatures.

So, where rigid modern gypsum plasters have been applied to aged ceilings, the resulting tensions between timbers and plasterwork can cause localised cracking. Thin horizontal cracks appearing at ceiling edges may similarly be due to different rates of expansion and contraction between masonry walls and timber ceiling joists.

Water leakage from overflowing showers, baths and leaky pipes is a common cause. Water usually finds its way through any lighting points and along joints, leaving a distinctive light-brown stain, often exposing the strips of tape between sheets of plasterboard.

Shop these tools and products to help repair cracks in ceilings

Are the cracks in your ceiling a serious problem?

One of the most worrying scenarios is where cracking is caused by dangerous, unsupported loadings balanced precariously above ceilings. This typically occurs where botched structural alterations have been carried out, such as DIY removals of chimney breasts or load-bearing walls.

Cracking here will normally be fairly localised with associated unevenness and bulging. If this is suspected, you need to urgently check whether anything suspicious is located directly above the ceiling and seek professional advice, which in most cases would be a structural engineer.

Broader ‘structural’ causes, such as settlement at the foundation level, will likely result in pathways of associated cracking appearing in nearby walls, typically with significantly wider cracks forming around the edges of ceilings (unless obscured by coving). Horizontal cracking along the tops of bedroom walls where they meet the ceilings could also be a symptom of movement in the roof structure.

When it comes to historic lath and plaster ceilings, surveyors and builders are sometimes accused of being unduly alarmist. This is because the fine strips of wooden ‘laths’ that make up the structure of these ceilings can sometimes come loose from the joists they’re nailed to, as a result of movement or vibration in the floors above or because of water leakage. This can cause the plasterwork to lose its ‘key’ and drop away in chunks.

But condemning all older ceilings on the basis of such potential risks can be misleading. When sections of old plasterwork are suspected of having broken away, a simple way to assess their firmness is to tap them and listen for a hollow sound. Any loose laths should be checked for timber decay, and any defective areas isolated before carrying out localised repair or replacement work.

Diagnosing structural cracks

If you have persistent ceiling cracks, they should be inspected by a professional. Pemberton says, “Only the professionals can properly diagnose these cracks, but this can be chartered surveyors or structural engineers. Snagging inspectors can also diagnose a ceiling crack by finding the cause and severity."

Pemberton explains the difference between the two, “Chartered surveyors are building surveyors who can complete a house survey for you, whereas a structural engineer specialises in the building’s structure.”

He continues, “They can come into play both during a building’s construction and a renovation.” He adds, “Surveyors are needed during the purchasing process. Snagging inspectors are independent building inspectors who can complete this both before and after building completion. They specialise in inspecting new build properties."

If you notice fresh cracks appearing, it’s probably worth instructing a structural engineer to focus on the specific issue rather than paying for house surveys such as a ‘whole house survey’. Any movement elsewhere in the building needs to be investigated and appropriate solutions devised.

Pemberton points out the cost for a survey, “Home surveys can range between a couple of hundred and £1.5k, depending on the size of the property and the survey level. For homebuyers (level 2), prices typically cap out at £1k.” He adds, “A snagging survey can cost between £300 and £400."

Fixing cracked ceilings

This largely depends on the type of ceiling you are dealing with. Modern plasterboard ceilings are surprisingly durable and, in most cases, can accommodate water leakage or localised movement without major trauma.

However, if there are problems, they can be repaired. Pemberton shares how to deal with minor cracks, “The task of repairing a slightly cracked plasterboard ceiling would involve opening the crack up, removing any loose material, and applying fibreglass tape to seal the crack. Then plastering this over with joint compound and leaving this to dry before sanding and painting.”

For minor cracks, you can use a suitable filler (like this Ronseal Smooth Finish Filler from Amazon). When dry, sand down and paint. Bowed or damaged areas can simply be cut out and patched with new sheets of plasterboard, then filled and taped the joints, and finally plastered to match the surrounding surfaces.

Cracking linked to different rates of thermal expansion between adjacent materials at ceiling edges, which is not structurally significant, can often simply be concealed with coving fitted between the walls and ceilings.

More serious repair work is likely to be required for historic lath-and-plaster ceilings. Once any loose or damaged areas have been isolated, they can be cut out and either infilled with plasterboard or reconstructed by securing or replacing loose laths before replastering.

For added strength, lining paper can be applied over the surface to match the surrounding original ceilings. If extensive areas of old plasterwork have come loose, you may need to replace the whole ceiling with new plasterboard, unless the building is listed or of special historic value, in which case a like-for-like replacement will be needed.

Repairs to cracking caused by structural issues elsewhere in the house will obviously have to wait until the root causes have been addressed. For example, where the rafters have pushed the roof slopes outward, remedial repairs will first be needed to restrain the rafters before replastering.

Does home insurance cover ceiling cracks?

Whether your home insurance will cover cracks in the ceiling will depend on the ktype of crack, explains Nathan Blackler, home insurance expert at Go.Compare, “Understanding the type, width, and direction of a crack can help you determine whether it’s cosmetic or a sign of structural concern, and therefore whether it would be covered by a home insurance policy.”

He continues with an example, “Cracks in walls or ceilings that are wider than 2mm, are wider at the top than the bottom and run diagonally could indicate subsidence and should be inspected by a professional.”

If you do have cracks that are caused by subsidence, these are typically covered. Blackler says, “Any cracks that have formed from subsidence are usually covered by home insurance under your buildings policy, but only if your property has not suffered subsidence previously.”

However, he says it is worth noting the excess on the policy, “According to Defaqto, around 93% of all buildings insurance policies have a standard subsidence excess of between £1,000 and £1,499."

For smaller hairline cracks, home insurance is unlikely to cover the issue, shares Blackler, “Home insurance often won’t cover repairs of small, hairline cracks that naturally appear, especially where a new property or extension settles. These types of cracks are considered cosmetic and will be your responsibility to fill and repair.”

If your home has hairline or small cracks between the ceiling and the top of a wall, you can learn how to install coving to hide them. If the cracks are more serious, they will need to be repaired. Check out our cosy living room ideas and loft bedroom decorating ideas to bring a room back to life.

If you hadn't given much thought to your ceiling ideas then now is definitely time to start. There are a vast amount of types of ceiling to choose from and it is amazing just how much the style of this 'fifth wall' can have on both the look and the feel of a home. 

There are so many different ways to treat ceilings — they certainly need not be flat, white and of a standard height and here we have set out to prove that point, by bringing you a whole host of stunning ideas. While some are solutions for houses with tricky proportions, others simply deliver a huge dose of visual interest.

Whatever your ceiling type, its height or your preferred interior style, the following round up of ideas should provide you with plenty of inspiration to turn the space above your head into a focal point to be admired. 

Rethinking your ceiling ideas 

When renovating, extending or self building there are a mind-boggling number of decisions to make at every stage of the project. What this means is that when it comes to certain details, it is all too easy to take the safest and simplest option rather than complicate things even more. 

Ceilings and the way in which they are finished off or treated tend to fall into this category of 'play it safe decisions', meaning they often get left painted white, playing second fiddle to your choice of light fittings or wall covering ideas. 

This is actually a real shame as your ceiling has the potential to become a feature in its own right. Whether you have the opportunity to create a double height or vaulted space or simply want to spruce up your existing interior scheme, we have ideas for you. 

1. Bring ceiling cladding into the 21st century

Your choice of ceiling cladding ideas will have a massive impact on the look and feel of your interiors — so do take time to consider something other than plaster painted white. 

While timber-clad ceilings fell from favour after the 1970s, they have recently been enjoying a renewed popularity thanks to more sleek, contemporary designs and ways of installing them being introduced.

Timber ceiling cladding can usually be fixed directly to the ceiling, just as you would with wall cladding —  if your ceiling features timber joists, then use these to secure the cladding. Alternatively, nail or screw softwood battens at right angles to the wall, spaced around 400-600mm, before attaching the cladding to these. 

2. Ensure all eyes are on original beams

If you are lucky enough to be renovating and have original timber beams to work with then you will undoubtedly want to do all your can to ensure they are the star of the show. 

While beam restoration features in many cottage renovation projects, do take time to think about how to really draw the eye to this characterful feature. 

Here, rather than competing for attention with the timber beamed ceiling, the unusual striking light fitting, from DelightFULL, actually draws the eye instantly upwards, with the contrast in old and new ensuring each can be appreciated in its own right. 

3. Turn your ceiling into an optical illusion

If you haven't before thought about wallpapering your ceiling then this idea may well get you thinking. 

There is no reason why you can't paper a ceiling in just the same way as you would the walls. It creates instant interest and opens up the possibility for all kinds of design schemes to be created. This is also a particularly good idea for those with very high ceilings, which can sometimes, when left plain white, make a space appear vacuous. 

Here, Ace Art Deco Fan Wallpaper from Bobbi Beck has been used overhead.

4. Contrast intricate moulding with modern lighting

Beautiful original ceiling mouldings deserve all the attention they can get and if you have gone to the trouble of repairing old ceilings you want to make sure your efforts don't go unnoticed. 

One option is to pick out intricate moulding by painting it a contrasting colour to the rest of the ceiling. Alternatively, consider pairing elaborate original mouldings with striking contemporary light fittings. The effect will be to ensure the mouldings stand out proudly as an authentic period feature while the lights show the evolution of the space. 

5. Use a matching concrete finish on walls and ceiling

If you are after a little bit of industrial chic in your home then you can't go far wrong with concrete finishes and interesting types of plaster. This is not a look that needs to look sterile or cold thanks to the array of soft, powdery pale tones now available. 

In this 1960s remodelling project, the owners have opted for a matching grey, concrete-effect wall and ceiling plaster from Clayworks. The neutral and unfussy finish of the plaster allows the stunning views enjoyed by the house to be fully appreciated. 

6. Use a combination of ceiling heights

Do remember that ceilings do not have to be the same height throughout a house — they can even vary in their measurements within the same room. Not only is varying ceiling height a fantastic way to zone and break up an open plan layout, but it can also be useful in bringing in extra natural light or when navigating existing floor-to-ceiling windows or doors in the case of barn or church conversions. 

The fresh, simple interiors of this contemporary home allow the striking interior architecture to shine — by incorporating double height spaces alongside a lower ceiling height, the living area is given an intimate, cosy feel while the landing, with its glazed balustrade, that lies directly above is able to enjoy far reaching views. 

7. Create industrial chic with timber cladding

Raw, natural finishes are definitely the way to go if it is an industrial look you are aiming for — and timber and metal are particularly good choices, especially when it comes to finishing off vaulted ceilings in style. 

In this self build, which was completed for just £160k, the birch-faced ply that has been used to clad the walls, sits beautifully against the pine ceiling cladding used on the vaulted ceiling and the black exposed A-frame.

8. Don't discount curved ceilings

Curved ceilings, also known as barrel vault ceilings are, as the name suggests, shaped like the inside of a barrel and result in one long, continuous arch. 

They look brilliant when used in open plan spaces and along hallways — they also work really well with both timber ceiling cladding as well as simple plaster finishes, as can be seen here. 

The owners of this self build, designed by Roderick James Architects, were keen to recreate the look and feel of a Dutch barn with a curved roof.

9. Turn your entire ceiling into a focal point

Ceilings do not have to be boring or neutral — just think of the period mouldings now so sought after by those renovating period properties.

Turn your ceiling into the focal point of the room by giving thought to how you could bring it to life in a way that will compliment the rest of the decor within your space. 

Here, Orac Decor 3D Panels, from The Wood Veneer Hub, have been used on both the walls and the ceiling. Not only do they add interest and an optical illusion but they also make the most of a high ceiling, drawing the eye to the soaring proportions of a space. They can even be supplied pre-sprayed in a colour of your choice. 

10. Take care when dealing with a low ceiling

While there are plenty of ways of lighting low ceilings in a way that can make them appear higher or less oppressive, there are also other tricks to consider. It is important to remember that low ceilings are not always necessarily a bad thing — they can make a space feel cosy and warm and are perfect for snugs and in intimate dining areas. 

However, if you have low ceilings and are wondering what type of windows to use within the space, take inspiration from this project. The owners have extended and renovated their coastal bungalow and were keen to make the most of the ocean views. In the bedroom, full-height sliding doors work brilliantly alongside the long, horizontal window that has been set midway down the wall. 

11. Paint ceiling cladding for a coastal vibe

The fresh, coastal look is one coveted by many people, keen to inject a laid-back breezy feel into their homes. A great way to achieve this style is to use simple tongue-and-groove timber cladding on the ceiling and paint it a subtle, pale shade such as white, grey or a pastel sky blue. 

Here, the vaulted ceiling has been painted a clean white shade, while the eye-catching Horus Suspension Lamp with its bold copper finish, from Brabbu, sits in pleasing contrast.

12. Put a new spin on a coffered ceiling

Perhaps one of the lesser-spotted ceiling types, coffered ceilings have an awful lot to offer. But just what is a coffered ceiling?

They are based on a classical design and are comprised of a series of grids formed by either recessed sections or by using stick on mouldings. 

They are perfect for those after high ceiling ideas as opposed to those with rooms more squat in their proportions, where they can be a little overwhelming. 

While this style of ceiling has traditional roots, a ceiling featuring the distinctive grid pattern can actually work very well in contemporary homes, especially when teamed with concealed LED lighting. 

12. Turn your ceiling into a work of art

Turn your ceiling into a point of interest by using a feature wallpaper to cover it — wallpaper really doesn't have to be restricted to walls. 

This is an idea that works really well in bedrooms, where the wallpaper can provide you with something lovely to look at when reclining in bed — much better than staring at a bare and boring ceiling. 

Here, a made-to-measure 'Antique World Map' Mural by Lovell Johns, available from Wallsauce.com has been used, with its neutral tones complimenting the rest of the interior decor scheme. 

13. Prevent a vaulted ceiling from dwarfing furniture

Vaulted ceilings are the perfect way to add drama and character to single and double-storey homes alike, however, they are not without their issues

Firstly, they can be more expensive to construct than standard ceilings. Then there is the fact that they can be hard to heat and to clean — plus you will need to think about how you will access any light fittings once the bulbs go pop. 

Finally, vaulted ceilings can dwarf furniture a little, making things look out of proportion. 

In this self build, architect Jake Edgley, of Edgley Design, installed wall panels at a height of 2.1m in order to bring the scale of the room down. 

14. Mirror mouldings with light fittings

Original mouldings can be a thing of beauty and if you have been lucky enough to discover your home has some still in place then you will no doubt be keen to find ways to make the most of them. 

One way to highlight ceiling mouldings is through your ceiling lighting ideas. Here, striking pendant lights – Marcus pendant lamps from Covet House – mirror the circular form of the ceiling roses, as does the wall mirror. 

15. Really maximise a vaulted ceiling

Vaulted ceilings are a beautiful feature in many styles of property but it can be hard to know how to make the most of them. While there are many lighting ideas for vaulted ceilings to consider, such as using oversized fittings to add even more drama, positioning spots to highlight beams and fitting wall washers to emphasise the proportions of the space, there are other tricks to think about too. 

This converted Edwardian chapel, with its exposed timber trusses, has been fitted with a mezzanine level that ensures floor space is not sacrificed for soaring ceilings. The striking pendant lighting is from Tom Dixon.

16. Match wall and ceiling colour

While convention says that the ceiling should be painted in a lighter shade than that used on the walls, the trend for 'colour drenching' has seen things change.

Painting the walls and ceilings in the same shade adds tonnes of drama, creates added depth and really pulls a space together — it can also help a small space appear bigger than it really is. 

In this renovated farmhouse, the ceiling and walls are the same smokey blue grey, while the original timber beams have been left in their natural state — the effect is very striking. 

17. Add instant character with a lattice ceiling design

Even if it is neutral living room ideas you are after, you will probably be keen that the space won't feel bland or boring. There are, thankfully, lots of ways to ensure that a pared-back colour scheme can still feel full of character, warmth and interest — and one of them is through the way in which you treat the ceiling.

The success of this living room is down to the variations in texture and pattern that have been used throughout the space. The striking marble wall sits brilliantly alongside the lattice-pattern of the coffered ceiling, while varying the curtain fabrics adds further interest. 

18. Make mouldings pop with a colour contrast

Using a range of shades over your walls, ceilings and mouldings is a great idea for a number of reasons. By picking a single shade, different from that used on the walls and ceiling, for your mouldings, you will be ensuring that they really stand out and can be fully appreciated. Bright white works well, as do bolder dark shades — both of which pick up on the more intricate details. 

Here, paint by Annie Sloan has been used in various earthy shades, with the mouldings being given a fresh white finish. 

19. Zone an open plan space with your ceiling

The popularity of open plan living is showing no signs of declining, but it is important to find ways to break these kind of spaces up visually in order to create various zones within the area. 

Varying ceiling height is the perfect way to mark out different zones — use lower ceiling heights in the areas you want to feel warm and welcoming and reserve higher spots for sociable and functional spaces. 

In this kitchen, from Wood Works Brighton, a lowered ceiling section directly above the island gives emphasis to the heart of the space.

20. Use a recessed ceiling to add character

Perfect for those who want to make a statement with their ceiling, recessed ceilings – sometimes known as tray ceilings – feature a central section that is set at a higher level than the surrounding ceiling. 

They are most commonly formed by constructing a suspended ceiling around the periphery of the room. Not only do they provide homeowners with the chance to fit concealed LED strip lights around the edge of the recessed section but they are also a great way to make a space feel cosier and more welcoming.  

21. Drench your home in light with a glass ceiling

What is one of the best ways to introduce light from above? With a glass ceiling of course. 

By introducing structural glazing into the design of your home, you will transform a standard room into a dazzling, bright, light-filled space. A glass ceiling is also the ideal solution where the use of conventional windows is restricted — perhaps in side return extensions such as this.

Structural glass roofs usually involve the use of structural support, such as frameless glass beams or slim steel supports. A cheaper and simpler way to bring in overhead light is to use a roof lantern or a bank of rooflights. 

While Artex ceilings were once the height of fashion, it's become more common in recent years to see smooth painted or even wallpapered ceilings take centre stage in our homes.

But, as a type of ceiling that was once very popular, it's not uncommon to still find Artex ceilings when buying a home to renovate or extend. Or, perhaps you've only recently discovered it could contain a hidden hazard, meaning it's definitely time for it to go.

The question is, should you remove it or cover it, and do you need to call in the professionals or can you tackle it yourself? We asked the experts how to take a ceiling from swirls and stipples to super smooth and here's what they recommend.

What is an Artex ceiling made of?

Artex is a type of plaster that essentially provides a textured coating to the surface it's applied to. It was commonly used on ceilings, most recently in the 80's, and while the name now tends to be used to generically describe the type of finish it could achieve, there are other similar products that did, and still do the same.

Unlike smooth plaster ceilings, Artex was designed to be applied in a way that allowed the plasterer or decorator to create texture and pattern to it. Common designs included stipples, swirls, fans and shells or simply just an all-over 'bobbly' finish.

What are the links between Artex ceilings and asbestos?

One of the reasons you need to ensure the safe removal of Artex, is that Artex used to contain asbestos.

"The first thing you need to check when deciding if you will remove or cover your Artex ceilings, is that it doesn’t contain asbestos," says Steve Jenkins, Homebuilding & Renovating's DIY expert. "Artex stopped containing asbestos back in the 1980s/90s, but, if your Artex is over 40 years old it could well contain asbestos. If this is the case we suggest you call in a professional to sort it out for you," he advises.

"Artex, Marblecoat, Newtex, Pebblecoat were some of the trade names for what we in the industry refer to as a ‘textured coating’ that used to contain asbestos and were used on ceilings and walls," explains Greg Byrne director at RB Asbestos Consultants.

"The asbestos would be present as a binding strengthening material within the textured coating with varying amounts up to 3%," continues Greg.

However, the use of asbestos within Artex has now been stopped. "Most manufacturers stopped the use of asbestos (generally Chrysotile ‘white’ asbestos) within their products around 1983," confirms Greg.

"There can be no guarantee however that other textured coating products were not left over from that time or imported from other countries. The only safe approach is to have the material tested. All asbestos use was banned in the UK in August 1999," notes Greg.

What are the best methods for removing Artex from ceilings?

Most homeowners choose to get rid of Artex ceilings, either by having them removed or by covering them up.

Unlike when repairing old ceilings covered with other types of plaster, the main issue with removing Artex is, as mentioned, the potential presence of asbestos. While the ceiling remains intact and undisturbed, the asbestos poses no health threats, however once the asbestos fibres are tampered with or if the Artex becomes damaged, they can prove deadly.

For this reason, it is vital that you call in the professionals to ascertain whether or not your Artex contains asbestos before trying to do anything on a DIY basis.

One of most common ways to remove Artex containing asbestos is to use a water-based product designed to dampen the Artex so that any potentially hazardous fibres and dust won't be released when the coating is scraped away. A particularly popular product is Eco Solutions X-Tex® Working Wet System.

These kinds of products are painted onto the Artex surface to soften it, allowing it to be scraped off easily without any asbestos fibres becoming airborne. The sodden Artex simply falls away and can be bundled up and taken to the nearest refuse site accepting asbestos.

Can I remove Artex from ceilings myself?

However, if your Artex or other type of plaster coating doesn't contain asbestos, you may decide to remove it yourself.

"Steam and a sturdy wallpaper stripper tool like this Stanley Long Handle Scraper from Amazon are a good choice," recommends Steve Jenkins.

"You will need to start with a wallpaper steamer to soften the Artex, and this will take a while," he notes, "but once soft you can use the scraper to remove the Artex. Depending on the style of the Artex you can use the scraper to knock off all the high points and make it as smooth and level as possible," says Steve.

"Then, you can skim the ceiling or wall to finish. A chemical stripper is an option," agrees Steve, "but these can be messy, especially if working on a ceiling."

You could also sand it all away, although this causes a considerable amount of dust, which is why using a wallpaper steamer is a better option, dampening the plaster and causing it to fall away.

"Don't forget you'll need a mask, overalls and goggles, and maybe gloves and a hat as well," adds Steve, "as it's typically a messy job."

What tools and kit do I need for removing Artex?

Can you cover over Artex rather than removing it?

Some people choose to leave their Artex well alone and have it skimmed by a plasterer instead. However, it is still advisable to get professional advice if the Artex is likely to contain asbestos.

Skimming is also only an option where the Artex is in sound condition, with no sections falling away.

Skimming Artex is a trickier job than skimming plasterboard or a smoother surface and it is recommended that if any of the Artex surface protrudes by 5-10mm, a bonding coat is applied before the skim coat is applied. The skim coat will usually need to be thicker than usual to take into account the textured finish.

"From speaking to plasterers, they don’t particularly like skimming over Artex as the bond between the skim and the Artex can fail over time," says Greg Byrne. "Particularly on ground floor ceilings where there is a bedroom above, as the floor movement can make the skim coating fail more quickly."

Steve Jenkins' top tip for dealing with Artex ceilings? "If you want an easy solution, don’t bother removing it at all. Simply overboard with plasterboard and get it plastered. Alternatively, a cheaper DIY option is to use plywood and paint."

Wondering how to decorate your newly skimmed and smooth ceiling? Follow our expert advice for painting a ceiling, but check out the best painted ceiling ideas before you start.

Learning how to paper a ceiling is an art that every DIYer should try to add to their skill set at some point. 

If you are a first timer or newcomer to wallpapering ceilings you want to start with a plain pattern-free lining paper, something that would be a good platform for a new coat of paint or a burst of colour on the ceiling of a room. 

Those more confident with their ceiling papering skills could tackle a patterned wallpaper but it's worth bearing in mind there will be extra work needed to ensure the pattern lines up. While you might know how to wallpaper walls, ceilings are a whole new ball game and wallpaper with a pattern that doesn't align across the ceiling space can end up looking messy and unprofessional.

Here we look at the reasons why you might want to wallpaper a ceiling and reveal the pro techniques you need to know to get a smooth, smart finish.  

 Paper a ceiling: The tools you'll need

• Pasting table
• Paste brush
• Wallpaper hanging brush
• Pole sander
• Paint scraper
• Wallpaper scissors
• Tape measure
• Cloth
• Long work platform or ladders and planks

Best place to start when wallpapering a ceiling? 

The first consideration is which direction to wallpaper. Ideally choose the direction that involves the least cutting, typically the longest length. This is quicker and produces less waste.

Another option is to hang lengths moving away from a natural light source such as a window as this is less likely to show any overlaps. If using patterned wallpaper hang the first strip in the middle of the ceiling and work outwards towards the wall.

Use a piece of string and a couple of drawing pins to create a straight line across the ceiling where you want your starting point. Create the line three quarters of a roll from the wall. This helps you cut in where the wall and ceiling meet which isn’t always straight. Mark along the string at regular intervals with a pencil and join up with a straight edge like a spirit level. 

Pictured: Hedera wallpaper by Sanderson, which you can buy via Wallpaper Direct 

Six steps to paper a ceiling for a pro finish

To make your life easier you’ll need a platform to walk along. If you don’t have one you find one easily on Amazon like this multipurpose scaffolding platform and ladder or can hire one locally. You can use a step ladder, but this makes the job far more difficult as you'll need to keep going up and down to move it along while also holding the wallpaper. 

1. Prep the ceiling 

If you already have wallpaper on the ceiling you need to make sure that you remove the wallpaper. Adding wallpaper on top of wallpaper can lead to poor adhesion and cause the paper to come away from the ceiling.

If you have a previously painted ceiling, get a paint scraper to remove any flaking or loose paint. Then wash down with sugar soap followed by clean water and leave to dry. Finally, use a fine grade sandpaper on a pole sander like the ProDec 360 Degree Heavy Duty Swivel Pole Sander Head from Amazon to get a smooth and quick finish.   

2. Measure and cut 

Measure the ceiling to get the right length for your wallpaper. Add an extra 6-12 inches for overlap at each end. Unroll your wallpaper, mark with a pencil and cut with a pair of wallpaper scissors like the Coral Endurance Scissors from Amazon. Place the scissors on the end of the wallpaper to stop it rolling up when on the pasting table.  

3. Paste and prep paper 

Mix up your wallpaper paste – follow the manufacturer’s instructions – in a bucket and apply evenly. Start in the middle and work out towards the edges. Now gather the paper into thirds – or quarters for longer rolls. 

Take one end of the paper and fold over without creasing – paste the underside of the paper side to side rather than lengthways – around a third of the way up the strip. Now fold over again so it is in line with the first fold and again if needed to create a concertina effect, taking care not to crease the paper. 

4. Put up the wallpaper 

Hold both ends of the wallpaper and get up on your platform and place the wallpaper on the ceiling at your start point with an overlap onto the wall. Using a wallpaper hanging brush like the Harris Seriously Good Wallpaper Brush from Amazon to smooth the wallpaper onto the ceiling. Start in the middle and work outwards to the edges to eliminate bubbles in wallpaper. 

Now pull out the first fold and brush this onto the ceiling and repeat until you reach the opposite wall. Now get the back of your wallpaper scissors and mark on the paper where the ceiling meets the wall. Gently peel back the end of the strip, cut along the mark and brush down again. Remove any excess wallpaper paste with a damp cloth. Now repeat for the rest of the ceiling. 

5. Paper around obstructions 

Every ceiling will have at the very least a light fitting, so you will need to take precautions before you start to paper as Olivia Hunter, decorating specialist at Wallpaper It explains. “To wallpaper around obstructions such as light fittings or ceilings roses, start by switching off the mains power in your home. Don’t switch it back on until after you’ve finished and the paste is dry. Next, unscrew the fitting and any cover plates and pull them away from the ceiling.

“Where the wallpaper meets the fitting, hang the paper over it. Using the protruding fitting as a guideline, take a sharp blade and begin creating a series of diagonal cuts from the centre point to the boundaries of the fitting, creating a small hole.

“Pull the fitting through the hole and trim off any excess paper before smoothing the remaining paper down. When the fitting is screwed back into place, the cut edges should fit neatly, leaving a seamless finish.

“Ceiling roses can be approached with the same method - just remember to remove any excess paper for a professional result.”

6. Dealing with tall ceilings 

Older properties often have higher ceilings so you need to approach the job slightly differently as Hunter reveals. “If you live in a period property, you might find your ceiling exceeds 3m. If this is the case, you’ll likely struggle to reach it with standard ladders. We recommend renting scaffolding as a safer alternative.” 

Hunter goes on to suggest using a different type of wallpaper. “To make wallpapering a tall ceiling easier, it’s important to choose a wallpaper that is easy to apply. We recommend using peel-and-stick wallpaper for tall ceilings to help reposition the paper as you work.”

Pictured: Colefax and Fowler Bowood wallpaper, available via Wallpaper Direct

How to paper a ceiling that has just been plastered? 

If you have a newly plastered ceiling there are a couple of points you need to think about before you start putting up your wallpaper. The first is to make sure that the new plaster is dry. 

It will depend on the type of plaster and the environment where the new plaster has been applied. But, as a general rule finishing plaster in a warm room will typically be touch dry in 2-4 hours. But it needs to be fully cured before you can start thinking about wallpapering, which takes anywhere from three days to two weeks. Check our How long does plaster take to dry? guide for more info.

Once the plaster is fully dry you need to seal it before you start. If you try wallpapering new plaster without sealing the wallpaper will stick and be difficult to move into position. A simple cost effective solution is to use watered down wallpaper paste. 

Why paper a ceiling?  

If you’re painting a ceiling that is covered in cracks you will want to hide them before you get started.  Adding wallpaper is a quick and cost effective alternative to reskimmimg a ceiling as well as a way to avoid spending too much time filing and prepping the ceiling. Choose a thick lining paper like Erfurt Smooth 1700 grade Lining paper from B&Q to hide those cracks.

Decorating trends like colour/pattern blocking will often see bold blocks of colour across a ceiling. If you decide it's time to redecorate it can be difficult to cover dark colours easily. Adding wallpaper immediately hides the colour and gives you a clean, easy to paint surface to work with.  

How much for a professional to paper a ceiling? 

The cost will depend on the size of the ceiling and how much work is involved. A straightforward ceiling will take less time and effort than a ceiling in an odd shaped room with intricate mouldings and multiple light fittings.

Labour costs for a professional decorator is around £150 a day and a small to medium sized ceiling will take 1-2 days. A large ceiling – 20m2 – will take around 2-3 days. It's also a good time to think about how much to wallpaper a room. If you can afford it, get the whole room done in one go. 

Knowing how to wallpaper corners isn’t as simple as you might think. Getting neat, good-looking corners is only one part of the process. The corners need to stay in place as well, and if you don’t get the execution right you could be staring at unwanted curling edges.

Inner and outer corners present different problems so you’ll need to know how to wallpaper both to get a flawless finish. In this guide, the pros reveal the techniques and tools you’ll need to ensure that you get crinkle-free corners.

How to wallpaper inner corners

Inner corners are where two interior walls meet in the corner of the room. Here, we set out how to get this right for a good finish.

1. Measure up 

If you can't put a full-width drop of wallpaper in a corner (which is often the case), ensure you have a tape measure to hand. Measure the gap and add a little extra, as Chelsea Clark, Head of Brand at wallpaper brand I Love Wallpaper explains: “Ensure that your piece of wallpaper is at least 3 cm wider so that it overlaps onto the adjoining wall.”

2. Paste and hang 

If you are pasting your wallpaper, use a pasting table; if not, paste the wall with a roller before hanging.

Catherine Jacob, Head of Design at Hovia, says, “Take the wallpaper and paste it onto the strip of wall that meets an adjoining wall.” She adds, “Smooth it snugly into place, using your wallpaper brush to release any air bubbles or wrinkles as you go.” Work the wallpaper brush towards the edges.

Then, you need to cut to get a good fit. Jacob says, “Push your straight edge right into the corner, then use your sharp knife to cut along the straight edge so that the paper is trimmed to fit the corner perfectly.”

Corners are not always perfectly straight, so leave a small, even-width overlap on the adjoining wall. Finally, trim the excess from the top and bottom.

3. Keep it straight

With one side of a corner complete you need to to make sure that the next drop matches up and is straight as Clark explains: “Set up a plumb line on the adjoining wall and hang the offcut against this line, matching the pattern as best as possible, this should fit neatly into the corner with a slight overlap.”

Get the gear to help wallpaper corners

How to wallpaper outer corners 

Hanging wallpaper on outer corners is similar to hanging wallpaper on inner corners but with a subtle difference.

Eric Bramlett, owner of Bramlett Real Estate, says, “Outer corners demand a slightly different trick to inner corners.” He adds, “Wrapping the paper around the corner with a small overlap – typically around 40–50mm – helps secure it in place.” (This technique is typically used when wallpapering a chimney breast.)

Bramlett says stretching to get a tight fit is a mistake, “Overstretching can distort the pattern and cause weak adhesion, leading to peeling down the line.” He adds, “Instead, keep the tension firm but natural, smooth it with a wallpaper tool, and trim any excess for a crisp finish.”

What corner do you start wallpapering first? 

You want to start in a corner that doesn’t have any obstacles, such as a window frame, door frame or light switches, in the way, if possible.

This allows you to do a complete uninterrupted drop which will give you a nice straight edge to butt up against when you put up the next drop. Start about a third of a roll away from the corner.

FAQs

Do you overlap wallpaper in corners? 

“The answer depends on the material and the situation,” explains Bramlett. ”With thicker wallpapers, a small overlap (around 5–8mm) can ensure better adhesion, especially if the walls aren’t perfectly even.” He adds, “. For thinner wallpapers, though, overlapping too much can cause visible ridges.”

If you cut flush to a corner rather than overlapping, there is a very good chance that when the wallpaper dries, you will be left with a gap exposing the wall underneath. This is why overlapping is important, especially if using patterned wallpaper.

However, if you are hanging lining paper or patterned wallpaper like Anaglypta that is going to be painted, you can cut the paper flush into the corners if you want. If there are any small gaps left, paint will hide them.

What can go wrong when wallpapering corners? 

“There’s the dreaded pattern misalignment,” says Bramlett. “Nothing ruins a wallpaper job faster than realising halfway through that your beautiful floral or geometric design is running off course.” He says to prevent this from happening, “Always start at a corner that’s free of major obstacles—no windows, no doors—so you can establish a clean, straight edge from the beginning.”

Another issue is getting an overlap to stick. To solve this issue, use an extra-strong paste and a seam roller to put the overlap in place. However, if it does lift, you can use a wallpaper repair adhesive like Solvite Overlap & Border from Amazon.

Another solution is to wipe off any excess paste, dry with a clean dry cloth and use painter's tape to hold down the overlap until the paste is dry. This is time-consuming but effective if needed.

If anything goes wrong, as a last resort, you can start removing the wallpaper and start again.

To ensure that your wallpaper is put up properly you will need the right wallpaper tools. Check out our 9 wallpaper hacks to help get a great finish. If you decide your wallpaper has got to go painting over wallpaper is a quick and easy option.

A couple in Hull have taken the bold decision to rip out all of their conventional radiators and replace their heating system with wallpaper — well, electric infrared wallpaper to be precise.

Home heating costs are fast becoming a vital consideration for every homeowner but 31-year-old Kris Bilski and his wife Olga decided to take a leap of faith and become early adopters of this rather curious emerging technology, and they haven't looked back, saying that it leaves their home warmer than their old gas boiler powered radiators.

It uses thin sheets that are inserted or fixed to ceilings, floors, and walls to generate heat using mains electricity. And they soon plan to take things a step further, to reduce their costs, by installing solar panels to power their infrared wallpaper. Here's what you need to know.

What is infrared wallpaper?

The couple used Hull-based iHelios, which produces this infrared wallpaper (although they prefer not to call it wallpaper as the "infrared heating products" can also be installed under floors and in ceilings).

The technology comes in two forms: recyclable film sheets that can be inserted above ceilings or under floors, says director Slawek Jagiello. Infrared heating panels can also be placed on solid surfaces and adds that the soaring price of gas over the last two years has sparked a huge rise in the demand for eco-friendly infrared heating alternatives.

Kris Bilski, who runs a video-production company, explained that he heard about the technology through a colleague and decided to take the plunge.

Why did Kris choose to rip out his radiators to install infrared wallpaper?

Kris decided to install iHelio's patented eco-infrared technology in the ceiling and floors of in his three-bedroom home – leaving the walls free from radiators.

Kris bought his home as a renovation project and, being a self-confessed tech nerd, researched alternative heating options to gas because of its cost and the impact on the environment.

He came across iHelios when his video production company, Astor Film Productions Ltd, took on a project with companies in the renewable energy market.

He decided to prototype the system in his home and then installed it in his studio. Kris calls it “invisible cost-effective heating” and says it costs him an eye-brow raising 20% less than having gas heating.

Kris and his partner like that the system is fully programmable with automatic features to give them full control over their electricity consumption and bills.

He said: “I can enable the geo-location through the app to automatically lower the temperature when I leave the property and rise when return. The system only takes around five minutes to reach the optimal temperature and you don’t need to turn the temperature up in every room of your home, just the one you are using.”

He also plans to eventually install solar panels on his roof to power the wallpaper so that it saves on costs even further.

How does infrared wallpaper heat your home?  

While radiators in a central heating system heat rooms by convection, warming air and circulating it, infrared heating warms up solid objects in the room directly, including humans, by emitting heat through infrared waves.

Slawek says one of the key advantages of the iHelios system is that the film has a positive temperature coefficient (PTC) layer, which uses waves of high and low heat to maintain the optimum temperature and save on energy use.

For example, the film starts by heating up to 220 watts per square metre and once it has reached this temperature, it drops to 170 watts per square metre.

“It is also fully controlled by a smart home app which gives multiple possibilities with automation, such as turning down the heating in the rest of the home while just heating the one room you are using to reduce energy consumption,” Slawek said. “This means potential savings on heating unused rooms and full control over your energy usage and electric bills.”

Infrared technology has been around for a long time and is used on baby units to keep pre-term babies warm and has also been used for its ability to repair muscles and heal the body. 

Is infrared wallpaper expensive?

Kris Bilski says the infrared technology cost him £3.5k to install, and the system comes with annual maintenance and a 20-year warranty.   

As the technology is in the prototype phase, putting a price on installation is difficult as this may change depending on how popular it becomes.

Different types of infrared technology come with different price tags too so it is worth shopping around and also comparing the features and benefits.

Whether you've spotted the first signs of mould on your walls or find yourself with more than a few black spots to tackle, knowing how to remove mould from walls correctly can help you avoid damaging your walls further.

Plus, having clean walls equals a far healthier home, which is why making sure there's as little mould in your house as possible is always the goal.

But, how can you remove mould from walls without damaging paint for example, and will removing it prevent it from returning? Here we explain how to remove it without having to resort to re-decoration.

Tools for removing mould from walls

Thankfully if you spot mould soon enough, removing it from walls is a relatively easy problem to tackle, and the sooner you get rid of it the better. What's more, removing mould before painting a wall will help to ensure a great finish.

"It’s best to clean mould off your wall as soon as you first start seeing signs of it growing," confirms Georgina Shepherd, cleaning expert at Housekeep.com. "Mould spreads quickly and is far easier to deal with in the early stages."

That said, while a simple DIY mould killer and a bit of elbow grease will get rid of surface mould, if you have underlying issues you will need to deal with those first to ultimately kill it.

"Mould growing on your wall could be a sign of more serious underlying issues, like a leaking pipe inside the wall or beneath the floorboards," warns Georgina. "A professional mould removal service can identify the source and tackle it properly. If you’re renting, raise the issue with your landlord or estate agent."

But, if you know the problem is simply a case of surface moisture building up, here are the tools you'll need for tackling the unsightly and unhealthy mould spots.

• Mould removal cleaning solution
• Bucket
• Kitchen cloths
• Kitchen roll
• Rubber gloves
• Goggles
• Mask
• Plastic covers for surrounding furniture and carpet

Or, if you prefer a more natural method for removing mould, "one part vinegar, two parts water solution is also effective," says Georgina, "as vinegar has natural antifungal properties and can kill many types of mould," she adds.

Add baking soda for an extra cleaning boost, but make sure the crystals are fully dissolved so they don't add an overly abrasive finish to the solution.

Shop for mould removal products

How to remove mould from walls

Before we get into the details of how to remove mould from walls, it's worth noting that if your walls are painted with a colour it is best to use a solution that doesn't contain bleach. By the very nature of bleach, it will most likely remove colour from the paint and leave an obvious patch on the wall which means re-decorating.

To remove mould from a coloured wall it is a better choice to use warm water, a mild detergent like washing liquid and a non-abrasive kitchen scourer.

Although using diluted or undiluted bleach is best avoided, regardless of your wall surface, suggests Georgina Shepherd..

"It's best to avoid bleach," she confirms, "as bleach-heavy products may make the wall look cleaner temporarily, but it won't kill the mould spores, meaning the mould will likely return. Also avoid harsh cleaners if you can - they won't solve the root problem and can even cause damage to your wall.

"Store-bought mould sprays are usually the most effective," she advises, "just remember to follow the instructions on the label and test on a small patch first to make sure it won’t damage your paint or plaster."

Once you've decided on your cleaning solution of choice, take the following steps to remove mould from walls says Georgina:

1. As you don't want mould spores spreading to your carpets and nearby furniture, make sure to lay down dust sheets and cover any furniture
2. Before you start cleaning, put on gloves, goggles and a face covering. This helps protect your skin, eyes and lungs from mould spores
3. Spray the wall if using a product, or if using a pre-mixed natural solution, gently wipe the affected area without soaking it. Over-saturating the wall can make the mould problem worse and damage plaster
4. Avoid aggressive scrubbing, as this can release and spread mould spores further
5. Once cleaned, rinse with cold water and pat dry with a clean towel

It's also important to note that even though most sprays will work within 30 minutes, if you are using a natural solution then you may need to leave this for longer for it to take full effect.

How to prevent it from returning

Although understanding how to remove mould from walls will leave you with a fresh and unblemished surface, are there ways of cleaning it that will prevent it from returning?

In most instances, the answer is no and it also depends on what the cause of the mould is. If condensation is the primary cause – typically in bathrooms and kitchens – then the solution is pretty simple and isn't about cleaning. Instead, good home ventilation is vital. Open windows to let air circulate or switch on an extraction fan. Not sure which once you need? Check out our guide to the best bathroom extractor fans.

Mould may also be the result of damp. Understanding what causes damp in your home is key here. It could be as simple as a leaking rainwater downpipe or blocked gutter that needs cleaning, and fixing this issue will eliminate the problem too.

However, there can be more serious underlying issues which can cause damp too, such as modern impervious cement render applied to solid walls or stone walls; this can hinder the breathability of the wall and consequently trap moisture.

Getting to the root cause and finding out how to treat damp will, in turn, help eliminate mould from coming back. But, there are also some products available such as paint and anti mould additives that can also help your walls and ceilings stay moud free for longer too.

Shop for anti-mould products

FAQs

How do I remove thick mould from walls?

Surface mould on white walls can be removed using the non-bleach method above. But if the mould has penetrated further into the paint you can use a solution that contains bleach.

Make up a mixture of four parts water and one part bleach. When you have made up the bleach/water mixture add a squeeze or two of washing up liquid. Put into a squeezy spray bottle and apply to the wall. Use a kitchen scourer, use the sponge side first, and wash the wall. Repeat until all mould has been removed. Now dry with kitchen roll. The scourer side of the sponge can be useful for the stubborn areas such as bathroom ceilings. You can also use a mould killing product, such as HG Mould Spray from Amazon, which contains chlorine.

Any kind of water and scrubbing will potentially take a very thin layer of paint off particularly if it's not a paint suitable for moisture heavy areas, so it still might be worth considering painting a ceiling or wall after you have addressed the problem that caused it, and removed the mould.

There are multiple causes for the growth of mould, but they all have a common connection – moisture. Condensation is a regular reason for the growth of mould. This occurs where warm air comes into contact with cold surfaces and is common in bathrooms and on windows. Follow our how to stop window condensation guide which offers tips to keep windows dry and the rest of your room less prone to moisture build up and the subsequent arrival of mould.

Or, if it's mould on other surfaces that's causing you grief, find out how to identify the different types of mould so you can establish the root cause and how best to prevent it, and remove it.

Cleaning mould off ceilings is a fairly grim job, but knowing how to remove mould from ceilings is essential as it's a job you can't get away with leaving. Mould spores can multiply at a rather nasty rate, so when mould is left to grow and fester it is not only unsightly, but it can be toxic. 

Mould produces allergens that can cause allergic reactions, respiratory problems, sneezing, skin rashes and even asthma attacks, according to the NHS.

Put simply, if you spot mould starting to grow on your ceilings, or anywhere inside your home like where you might have window condensation or damp, for instance, it's important to take action to clean it off as well as looking at remedying the cause in the longer term.

After experiencing a ceiling mould problem in my own home recently, I decided to look at the three best cleaning products to use, so read on for my verdict on the most effective option. 

3 products I used to clean mould off ceilings

Cleaning mould off ceilings (also removing mould from walls) is about using a product that will kill the spores. 

After decorating my bathroom last year, I made the mistake of skimping on ceiling paint and instead of using a proper brilliant white bathroom paint such as this brilliant white bathroom paint from Johnstone's with an eggshell finish, I used some stuff I had lying around from decorating one of the bedroom ceilings. 

It was of course a classic mistake, and now I have mould on the ceiling. I'll have to repaint the ceiling but in the meantime I took the opportunity to test out some of the recommended cleaning products. 

These are our top three cleaning products to use, along with some of their pros and cons. 

1. Use a specialist mould spray

A great product on the market is HG mould spray, available on Amazon. This stuff is a biocide designed to target and kill mould and can be used in all sorts of places mould appears, not just on ceilings. These include the seal on your bath or shower and on grout among others areas.

HG also have a sister product called H&G mould remover foam spray, also available on Amazon, which is a little more expensive but is better for using in hard-to-reach places.

To use either product, spray onto the mould from 3-5cm away and wait. After 30 minutes, wipe off with a wet sponge and the mould should wipe off too.

• Pros: very easy to use and effective
• Cons: toxic to aquatic life

Verdict: This stuff worked a treat. I had an old bottle lying around (it does actually last a while) and sprayed it on. I waited just over five minutes and wiped and off it came. I was actually pleasantly surprised how easily it came off. Note, it did leave a bit of a chlorine smell like a swimming pool, which I didn't mind as it made the bathroom smell clean but it might bother some.

2. Use household bleach

If you don't want to go out and buy a specialist mould removal product, you can give clear (don't use blue toilet bleach!) bleach a go. You'll need to use one that contains chlorine as this is the active ingredient, according to H&G. 

To use it, pour 250ml into a bucket and top up with water, then use either a cloth or spray bottle to apply to the mould on your ceiling. Leave it for 15 minutes (make sure you ventilate the room in this time) before wiping clean. Repeat until mould has completely disappeared. 

• Pros: cheap and easy to get hold of
• Cons: toxic and may take several attempts to remove the mould completely

Verdict: I do tend to keep cheap bleach under my kitchen sink so this stuff was easy to get hold of. However, after the excitement of the H&G killing the mould almost instantly, I was disappointed with the bleach method.

I applied it at the recommended strength but found myself tipping more bleach in as the mould wasn't disappearing particularly quickly. But after leaving it for a good 15 minutes and a bit of scrubbing, the results were much improved but not completely gone.

3. Use soda or vinegar

The other alternative is to use soda or vinegar on your mould. H&G recommend dissolving 18 grams of soda in 3 litres of water and then using a stiff brush to remove the mould. 

If using vinegar instead, use a dash of vinegar in 1 litre of water and apply with a cloth or spray bottle. Leave for 15 minutes before wiping off with a cloth.

• Pros: not as toxic
• Cons: may take several attempts plus stiff brush could damage paintwork

Verdict: I used bicarbonate of soda for this one and to be honest it was just as underwhelming as the bleach. The use of the scrubber was worthwhile though. Again, I had to leave it for a bit and the result were improved but the mould was not completely gone.

My final verdict on the three methods

The specialist mould product was far better than the DIY methods – here's the result below. It's more expensive to buy but takes less time and less faffing around with scrubbing, waiting and reapplying. 

That said, the bleach and soda did work to some extent, but the mould mark was still visible on close inspection.

It's important to remember that mould will grow where there is an excess of moisture, so although these methods will help to clean it off your ceiling it they won't necessarily prevent it from coming back. 

"Preventing mould is therefore about getting good through-flow of air in your home and trying to minimise the amount of moisture you introduce into your home," says Gordon Winchester, a ventilation control expert at Damp and Mould Control.

Another option is to make sure you use a ceiling paint designed for moist areas like bathroom or kitchen paint. For advice on how to do this where you've had a mould problem already, our feature on painting over mould has lots of tips. 

It's not difficult to repair cracks in plaster, but you really need to make sure that you are doing it the right way. Whether it's a hairline crack or a larger crack, the principle of repair is very much the same. You just need to know the right technique to get a good, long-lasting finish.

You can think about plastering walls, but this is an expensive alternative and if your cracks are only occasional and minimal a good filler applied properly will give you a finish that looks good and be strong enough to cope with nails and screws.

Here we show you how to quickly fix and repair all types of cracks in your walls and ceilings and tell you what filler you need to use. 

What is the best filler to repair cracks in plaster? 

Before you start dealing with any cracks you need to think about what filler you need for the job. Most cracks can be dealt with using patching plaster or a specialist wall/ceiling filler like Toupret interior filler powder which provides a good finish to paint over. 

If you have large cracks you may need to use a cement and sand mix to fill initially, but leave enough room – 4-5mm – to add a layer of filler or plaster when the cement has dried. 

How to repair cracks in plaster 

Here we take a look at the general process of repairing cracks in walls and ceilings around the home. 

1. Prep and score
Before you start, lay down sheets on the floor to catch any loose plaster and have a dustpan and brush and vacuum ready to get rid of the plaster.

Cracks will typically have loose edges, so these need to be removed to provide a secure base for the new plaster. Get a Stanley knife and run along the crack at an angle to remove the loose plaster. 

Repeat until you have widened the gap and you have a secure edge. Now gently brush the crack to remove plaster and finally vacuum to get rid of as much dust as possible.

2. Mix and add filler
Now get your filler and mix as instructed. For slightly deeper cracks – around 10-30mm – first work the mixture into the crack, making sure to secure the edges with the filler. Leave around 5mm to fill.  

3. Add tape
Now get a length of jointing tape, also known as drywall tape (such as the Eurobuild Everbuild tape from Amazon) and cut to cover the crack. You can also use plasterboard mesh tape (such as the 151 DIY plasterboard and drywall tape) to cover the crack. Add a little filler mixture to the crack, apply the tape and smooth out with your putty or filling knife.

Now add another layer of filler to cover the tape and smooth out with your putty knife and leave to dry as instructed. Once dry, sand down the filler until it is flat and blends in with the surrounding surface.  

You can now decorate or paint over the crack if needed.

How to fix hairline cracks 

If you have hairline cracks in your walls you simply need to mix up a suitable filler such as patching plaster or buy a small tub of ready mixed such as Everbuild All Purpose Ready Mixed Filler and apply. 

Get a putty knife and push the filler into the gap along the length of the crack then go back over with the putty knife to smooth it out. If the filler pulls up when you're trying to smooth it out, then add a fine spray of water or dip the putty knife in water.

Leave to dry and get a fine grade sandpaper – 180 is good – and combine with a sanding block. Personally I like to use a cork sanding block for walls. Gently rub down the plaster and blend with the surrounding surface.  

How to fill deep cracks in walls

Deep cracks might be a sign of structural issues that filling will not resolve. If this is the case, you need to get a surveyor in to identify the cause and then resolve the issue, before you start filling in the cracks.  

Once any issues have been resolved and you know you have a solid base to work with, start by filling with a sand and cement mix if putting straight onto brickwork. Use a 1 part cement and 4 parts soft sand mix. Leave around a 5mm gap to add your filler.

However, if you have a large crack in a wall that has been plasterboarded, you might be better off filling the holes in plasterboard by replacing the surrounding plasterboard and replastering.    

Can I just paint over hairline cracks on plaster? 

Yes you can especially if this is the first time they have appeared. However, if the crack is more than the width of a Stanley knife blade then you will be better off following the steps for a normal sized crack.

You can use a specialist flexible paint like Polycell’s Crack-Free Ceilings, which is slightly thicker than a lot of paints. Alternatively, apply an oil-based undercoat along the crack and leave to dry. This will act as a base and should fill the crack. If not, reapply a second coat. Now add a top coat to match the rest of the wall or ceiling to hide the crack.  

Can you caulk cracks in plaster? 

You can caulk over cracks in plaster but it's not the ideal solution if you want a smooth wall or ceiling. Typically the caulk will sink a small amount into a crack leaving an indent in the surface.  

However, if the crack is small enough and in a corner or near a window, door frame or skirting board, caulking is a quick and simple solution. But you won't be able to sand it down to get the perfect finish. 

If you need to paint over the caulk make sure that you know how to use decorators' caulk, sometimes known as painters' caulk, otherwise the paint won’t adhere properly. 

Why do plaster cracks keep coming back? 

There can be a number of reasons for this happening, but typically it's nothing to worry about. Walls and ceilings that have been plasterboarded onto a timber frame, typically a partition wall or stud wall, are subject to movement and cracks often appear where the edges of the plasterboard reside.

The same applies to most new homes, they are subject to what are known as settlement cracks, but once the foundations and structure settle these rarely get any bigger. Cracks can appear in areas where there is a lot of traffic, for example around stairs.

If you have cracks in plaster that are getting bigger, this may be a sign that there are other issues in the home. You can take off the plaster to see what lies behind to help resolve the problem. If there seems to be a bigger problem, you can get a builder to have a look and try and resolve the problem, or a surveyor to investigate and make proposals. 

Knowing how to change a light fitting can be a handy skill when renovating your home or redecorating.

And day-to-day it might become necessary if you've tried changing the bulb, only to find the fault lies with the fitting itself. The wiring might've come loose in the rose or the lamp holder or it might just be time to replace the light fitting entirely.

If you are rewiring, changing a light fitting might come into that and if you're a competent DIYer, it's a job you could potentially take on yourself. But if there is any doubt when it comes to electrics you need to call in an electrician.

Here we show how to change a light fitting safely including the whole pendant or just the lamp holder.   

How to change a light fitting: Replacing a pendant

If your pendant is worn or covered in paint it’s time to replace with a fresh new fitting

1. Make sure that the electricity supply is isolated
Go to your fuse board and switch off the relevant circuit breaker. If you are unsure, which this is, then turn off everything. Obviously, make sure you can see what you are doing still. Often it's a good idea to do these kind of jobs during daylight hours.

"Don't take a relaxed approach to electricity, even for small jobs. I know someone who ended up with a bleed on the brain because they asked someone else to isolate the circuit and that person got distracted on their phone and flicked the wrong switch. The guy then got an electric shock, causing him to fall off his step ladder and crack his head. Always take this part of the job, seriously," warns electrician Jonathan Bacon.

2. Remove the pendant cover
Get up a step ladder – and with an insulated screwdriver, unscrew the rose to give access to the connections. Take a photo as a reference to where each of the cables go, in particular any cables that have red or brown sleeving or tape on them as this will be the switch wire (live). Now undo the wires and remove the pendant. There should be a couple of screws holding the rose to the ceiling. 

"A common mistake that is often made is when people put all the red or brown (live) wires together and all the black or blue (neutral) wires together when in fact one of the black or blue wires is the switch live," says Jonathan Bacon. "The end result is this will cause a short circuit and the breaker will disconnect."

3. Add your new pendant
Feed the wiring through the rose of the new pendant and screw the rose into the ceiling. If you have junction box wiring you will only have one cable that will have an earth (yellow and green), blue (neutral) and brown (live) or older wiring will be earth (yellow and green) black (neutral) and red (live). The pendant cable will typically have blue and brown wires already attached. One to the left and one to the right. 

Now match up the blue wire with the neutral wire and screw in next to it. Repeat the same process with the live switch wire (this will normally be the one marked with red or brown sleeving or tape). Now attach the earth wire to the earth connector and screw in tightly. Finish up by screwing the rose cover back into place to hide the wiring. Refer back to your photograph if you get into any difficulty.

4. 3 Plate System (loop in)

The 3 plate wiring system is commonly used on ceiling roses and pendants. You will find a separate connection terminal usually in the centre of the rose, which is used as a joint for the live (brown or red cables) that loop from the previous light fitting to the next light fitting.

Once complete turn the electricity on and make sure that your new pendant works.

How to replace the lamp holder

If your lamp holder has broken and don’t want to replace the whole pendant you can just purchase a lamp holder for a few quid.  

1. Make sure that the electricity supply is isolated
Turn off the relevant circuit breaker switch on your fuse board. Again, if you are unsure which this is, then turn off everything. 

2. Remove the old lamp holder
Unscrew the top and bottom parts of the lamp holder to expose the wiring in the top of the holder. 

3. Disconnect wiring
There will be two wires, one blue (neutral) and one brown (live). Get a suitable screwdriver – an insulated screwdriver is a good choice for electrics – and undo the holding screw and remove the remaining parts of the lamp holder.

4. Install new lamp holder
Now slide the top half of the lamp holder over the cable and then wire up the neutral and live wires. Take note of how the old wires were held in place and repeat for the new. Make sure that there are no loose strands on the wires and screw tightly in place.

5. Put the lamp holder together
Screw the top half of the lamp holder into place making sure not to pinch the wires. Place your lamp shade over the holder and screw the bottom half of the lamp holder into place. Finally, fit your bulb and switch the electricity supply back on. 

Can I change my own light fittings? 

If you have some decent DIY knowledge, especially with electricals, i.e changing an electrical socket – then changing a light fitting should not be too much of a challenge. Just make sure the electricity supply is isolated or switched off and you have an insulated screwdriver before you start. One tip is to take a pic of the wiring on the light fitting for future reference if needed.

If in any doubt at all about changing a light fitting, it is best to call in a professional electrician to do the job. 

Do I need to turn off the power to change a light fitting? 

It is essential to switch off the electricity when changing a light fitting, anyone who understands the basics of electrics should know this. Someone could easily try the switch without realising you are working on the light fitting. 

Or someone could accidentally lean on the switch. More importantly 3 plate systems remain live at the ceiling rose even when the switch is turned off.

In older houses the writing might not be up to standard and could go live while you are working on it. So to be on the safe side, always switch off the electricity supply. 

How much do electricians charge to change a light fitting? 

Electricians charge anything between £30-£60 an hour depending on factors such as how well qualified they are, the size of their company and where you are located in the country. For example, London-based companies are typically more expensive.

Installing a light fitting should take around an hour so expect to pay £30+, again dependent on the electrician and location. Obviously, if you need more than a single light fitting installed the price will go up with each fitting. Also you will need to factor in the cost of the fitting if you haven’t purchased one yourself.  

If you have flickering lights after you have changed a light fitting you can go back and check connections (making sure you switch off the electricity again before doing so) but if this doesn't solve the issue, this would be a good time to call out a professional. 

If your home renovation plans include open plan living, you're probably looking to remove some internal walls. But, while it's fair to assume external walls are load-bearing, it's not always as simple on the inside.

Before you start wielding any type of demolition tool, it's essential to make sure you understand how to tell if a wall is load-bearing or not. Get it wrong and you could find yourself with a safety risk, breaking the rules and incurring unnecessary costs to rectify your mistake.

Why? Because if a wall does turn out to be load bearing, you'll not only need a structural engineer to undertake calculations for an alternative support but building control sign-off too.

What is a load-bearing wall?

"Internal walls – usually defined as room-dividing walls, as opposed to the insides of the external walls – come in two distinct flavours: load-bearing and non load-bearing," explains Mark Brinkley, author of the popular Housebuilder’s Bible and an experienced self-builder.

"A load-bearing wall acts as a support for a roof, a floor, a beam or another wall above it. It needs to be a little stronger than a non load-bearing wall and, crucially, it needs extra support under it, usually an additional foundation trench.

"Load-bearing walls can have a major effect on renovations, especially when you want to take down an existing wall. In these cases, it is vital to know whether or not the internal wall is load bearing because if it is, you will need to provide an alternative means of support," explains Mark.

"If in any doubt at all, then do get the building professionally surveyed so that you know what you are dealing with. If you are rearranging loads, then the building inspector will almost certainly want you to employ a structural engineer to design and approve the plan," he advises.

"The consequences of taking down a load-bearing wall without knowing what you are doing don’t bear thinking about," warns Mark. "In contrast, non load-bearing walls act as little more than room dividers and can be easily altered or even removed."

How to tell if a wall is load bearing

The most common mistake made by homeowners asking how can I tell if a wall is loading, is in assuming that internal stud work walls can't be load-bearing. However, when it comes to stud vs solid, it's vital to understand that any wall can be load bearing – even if it is made up of studwork and feels flimsy.

Paul Hymers, author and building control officer, also says a common mistake is assuming a wall is only load bearing if it is holding up a floor. This isn't the case, as roof loads can transfer down, as can the loads of other internal walls, beams and joists.

"The ceiling joists in traditional roofs are commonly supported on a central spinal wall, with the rafters also propped up from it by diagonal struts pinning the purlins that carry them. Of course, with the advent of trussed rafter roofs the need for spine walls to support the roof has gone but floor structures haven’t changed," explains Paul.

"Inner walls might also act as load-bearing elements by virtue of simply buttressing the external walls, giving them support against wind-loading. Because all external walls have a maximum span in the same way that beams do, they are subject to horizontal load from wind as well as vertical load.

"The distance an external wall can run unsupported depends on its thickness and exposure to the elements," he adds, "but you can think of the wall panel as a wind break that needs holding up, with buttressing support, at the returning ends and possibly along the way.

"A masonry chimney or pier of the right size can also provide this additional support but more often, internal walls that are perpendicular to it are brought to bear in this role."

As a guide, there are some very good indications that a wall is probably load bearing and therefore should not be touched without professional input. The structural engineering team at Allan Corfield Structures, explain:

• Exterior walls: Any exterior walls to your building are likely to make up your property's structure and therefore are highly likely to be load bearing.
• Central walls: Walls that run from front to rear, or side to side, are usually load bearing. A consistent wall line between floors can be an indicator of this.
• Wall with a wall immediately above it: Generally you'd stack your load-bearing walls so anything on a first floor that goes right down to the ground floor is likely to be load bearing. It could be supporting the roof too so you need to be more wary.
• Wall with perpendicular floor joists on top: The best way to tell here is if you open up the ceiling and have a proper look. Where this isn't possible, there are other clues. The detail at the top of the wall is different for a load-bearing wall and a non load-bearing wall. Your engineer or contractor should be able to spot these indicators. Even so, you'd always still need to confirm this by opening it up before removal.
• If you have any intermediate beams nearby : If you can't open up the ceiling, we would often make the assumption that the joists are spanning in the shorter direction, which would be typical. But that's not always the case, sometimes you will have an intermediate beam. Some older houses will have a beam in the centre of the living room and the joists can be spanning to that and your wall could be supporting the beams. So you do need to be careful.
• Racking panels on stud work: If a studwork wall is lined with OSB the likeliness of it being structurally important is increased as OSB is often used to strengthen a structure.
• Tenement homes: Extra care should be taken with tenements and other historic buildings as they aren't built to modern standards so their load-bearing walls aren't always tied to other walls. Once you start altering them they can be quite sensitive.

Additional ways to check if a wall is load-bearing

Engineers usually have access to historic, typical arrangements for houses and any archive drawings that are available. The archive drawings are the best way to confirm where walls are load bearing or not. Failing that, there's typical house layouts, if you are looking at tenements or looking at relatively new houses with replicated layouts. There's a general rule that most follow.

The one thing you shouldn't rely on or use as evidence? Believing what the previous homeowner tells you, as Homebuilding & Renovating's website editor, Amy Willis discovered.

"When I began renovating a house, the previous owners had assured me a dividing wall in the sitting room was "definitely not load bearing" as they'd had it installed themselves underneath one of the historic timber beams of the house that appeared to be holding the load instead.

"Dismantling it to open up the room was meant to be a simple job, but when I pulled off the gypsum plasterboard and removed the insulation, it started to look like the studwork was doing more work than expected," says Amy.

"The old timber beam above appeared well supported by timber uprights on one side of the wall, but closer inspection from the other side revealed hidden gaps between the uprights and the beam. Historic woodworm had disintegrated parts of the beam too, and careless power tool usage in the past had left deep cut marks in it as well.

"It illustrates an important lesson; before you start work removing a wall always take off all the plasterboard and insulation first so you can see what is going on underneath. And if in any doubt, always call in a structural engineer. That's what I did and I'm glad I did."

Can you remove a load-bearing wall?

Yes, when knocking down internal walls, load-bearing walls can be removed but you will need to pay a structural engineer to draw up calculations for a suitable beam that can be installed to hold the load once you have removed the wall. The structural engineer is likely to include a thorough risk assessment of the work too.

"Your structural engineer will calculate the weight imposed from each element of construction, total them up, factorise them and determine the ultimate design load on the beam. Armed with this figure and the maximum bending moment, the beam itself can be specified," explains Paul Hymers.

Removing load-bearing walls also requires building regulations approval. To get this, you need to contact your local building control officer at your local council, or a private approved inspector, and they will give you a quote for the visit to sign it off. Alternatively your builder might arrange this for you.

Do all this before you start the work as they may have additional requirements. You will also need to submit your structural engineer's drawings to your building control officer. Once the work is complete, they will check the beam that has been installed is the correct one as per the drawings.

Obviously, you will need to make sure your building control officer comes out before you plasterboard over or cover the beam so they can see what you've done.

Signs a wall might not be load bearing

A good way to tell if a wall isn't load bearing, is if the top timber of the studwork does not touch the timber joist of the floor above or any beam. Basically, if the wall is not making contact with anything structural.

For instance, if the studwork butts up with a plasterboard ceiling rather than the joists. This is likely to be a room divider that was added later rather than being load bearing.

You will need to remove all plasterboard from the studwork to check this is definitely the case and there are no hidden load-bearing structures inside the wall. If in any doubt, it's always best to call in a structural engineer because the worst-case scenario in getting it wrong is damaging the structural integrity of your home, which can make it unsafe.

Looking at the type of studwork used is not a reliable indicator as to whether the wall is load bearing or not. This is because most walls use C16 and C24 timbers and both can be used for load-bearing walls.

A stud wall can easily have been installed without the intention of it being load bearing, but end up actually holding a load. Hence it's always important to assess each wall individually.

Check out our guide for further reading on how to assess your home for renovation if you are still unsure whether you should remove a load-bearing wall or not. Or, if you are knocking down one wall but need to create a divider in another part of the room, find out how to build a partition wall the right way.