A cordless drill and DIY go hand in hand, but there will be a time when even the best cordless drill simply doesn’t have the power to cope with a project. That’s when it's time to call in an SDS drill. This boasts what is known as a Slotted Drive System (hence the SDS moniker), which works differently from a standard cordless/corded drill with a grip chuck.

To keep it simple, it uses a different type of drill bit that gives the drill more hammer action. Making it ideal for heavy-duty tasks that a standard drill can’t handle.

Like most Black + Decker tools, this SDS hammer drill is aimed at DIYers and not professionals. So how would it tackle the DIY jobs I had lined up? Read on to find out.

Specification

• Motor: 650W
• Impact energy: 1.4J
• Cord length: 2 metres
• Weight: 2.3kg
• Chuck capacity: 2mm-13mm
• Chuck type: SDS+
• Guarantee: 2 years
• Features: 1 x keyed chuck, 8mm SDS-PLUS bit, 1 x 6mm SDS-PLUS bit, 1 x adjustable and removable side handle, Depth stop, 3 x drilling and hammer modes.

First impressions

The unboxing of a power tool is always a highlight for me, but it didn’t take long with this Black & Decker BEHS01 hammer drill. The drill itself sits in the box, no plastic wrap, along with a handle, gauge stop and a small cardboard box containing a drill chuck and SDS+ drill bits. From an environmental perspective (which, in my opinion, matters), there is little packaging to get rid of, and what little there is is 100% recyclable and chlorine-free.

The lack of a hard case or carry case is a minus point. All my other Black & Decker tools have always come with at least a carry bag. I’ve noted that some sellers show the drill with a carry case, but I’ve not seen one that actually comes with one. A shame as I would have liked a hard carry case.

The Black & Decker BEHS01 is weighty, but in SDS drill terms, it is relatively lightweight. It is well-balanced and has a soft-grip handle that holds the drill firmly in the hand. Other notable features are the thick 2m cord (generally means more power), the mode selector that locks into place (I liked that), a reverse switch, and a small mystery button, which I suspected would be a power lock button, but we will find out later. Overall, I liked what I saw.

Set up

A corded drill like the Black & Decker BEHS01, means you don’t have to worry about charging up a battery before you can get started. One less step in the setup process. And, as it comes with a UK plug you can plug it in straight away, hit the trigger, feel the power, and appreciate the noise.

Like most drills, there are three modes on the Black & Decker BEHS01. You’ve got drill, drill and hammer and hammer. You simply need to choose the one most appropriate for the job. The selector is a decent size, and operation is easy. A push button releases the selector and locks it in place when you reach your chosen mode. For me, I liked the added extra peace of mind.

Elsewhere, the keyless chuck is a breeze to use. Pull back the sleeve, insert your bit, and you are ready to go. It's the same process to release it. And let's not forget the side handle included to help steady the drill. This fits behind the chuck and can be placed in your favoured position thanks to the inbuilt notches. A small plastic nut tightens the handle in position, ready for action.

Finally, an interesting addition was the chuck adaptor for use with standard drill bits. I can see that Black + Decker are trying to add value and purpose, but I’ve already got my newly acquired Einhell cordless drill that does what I want so wasn't sure if this was necessary.

It does mean you can get extra power without having to splash out on SDS-friendly drill bits, but it looked awkward, and I just wasn’t sure about it.

Performance

The Black + Decker BEHS01 came with a couple of 6mm and 8mm SDS drill bits, which immediately limited how I could use it. So I invested in this 3-piece Erbauer SDS Plus Shank Chisel Set from Screwfix to test the Black + Decker BEHS01 more thoroughly. This included a 250 mm point chisel and 2 x flat chisels (20 x 250 mm and 40 x 250 mm).

To kick off testing, I decided to use my new chisel bits to break up some large blocks of concrete that I had dug out of the ground a while ago. I originally tried smashing them up with a lump hammer and a cold chisel, but without much success.

The mystery button turned out to be a lock button, which I decided to call into action straightaway. The hammer mode and the smaller chisel did a good job of breaking off chunks. It still took me a good 15 minutes to break up one large piece of concrete, but with no need to worry about swapping batteries, the drill didn’t miss a beat. A return visit a couple of days later got the same results on the remaining blocks.

Next, it was time to try the supplied drill bits. First up was drilling into concrete, which it handled with ease. Next, it was drilling into exterior brickwork for hooks, an absolute breeze. Then it was indoors to drill into walls in order to put up some shelf brackets; it couldn’t have been easier. All the masonry I tried, the drill powered through.

Next, it was back to the chisels and tile removal. I had two layers of tile on tile to tackle and the first layer came off pretty easily, but the original layer (stuck to the wall) was more challenging. But again, the Black + Decker BEHS01 was up to the task.

The final test was using the keyed chuck with standard drill bits. While it looked and felt awkward, (and I’m not a fan of keyed chucks, especially when I’ve lost the key), it worked fine and gave extra power where needed. In some cases, too much power compared to my trusty cordless drill.

The one issue I had with the Black + Decker BEHS01 was the attachable side handle. It was easy to fit, but no matter how much I tightened it, it still slipped off when tackling tougher tasks. For lighter tasks, I did however get to use the handy depth gauge that slips into the handle.

Who shoud buy it?

The Black + Decker BEHS01 is a great choice for DIYers who need extra power for projects that their cordless drill simply can’t handle. It's easy to struggle through using a cordless drill when it doesn’t quite have the power you need, but this isn’t good for your cordless drill and will shorten its working life.

An SDS type of drill is a smart addition for DIYers, and the Black + Decker BEHS01 is an affordable, easy-to-use tool that provides enough power to tackle most home DIY and home renovation projects. All you need to do is fit your chosen SDS bit, choose your mode and hit the power trigger.

Final verdict

I’d definitely recommend the Black & Decker BEHS01 to any DIYer who likes tackling lightweight demolition and drilling masonry jobs, and needs a bit more power than their favourite cordless drill offers. This is a great starting point for anyone who doesn’t own an SDS drill, or an occasional DIYer who wants to replace an old, worn-out drill.

The addition of the keyed chuck seems like an odd choice, but it works and lets your SDS drill double as an everyday drill that uses standard drill bits. Personally, I prefer to use my Einhell cordless drill for standard drilling and an SDS drill when a project calls for the extra power.

I would have liked to see at least a couple of chisel bits and a carry bag or hard case included, especially as it is aimed at DIYers. I think this would have made it the complete package. However, these are small points as you are getting an affordable SDS drill that will get stuff done, in fact, almost anything a DIYer will tackle.

Whenever you buy one of the best cordless drills, you’re often also paying for the potential to use the same battery and charger with other tools from the maker’s range. This Makita bundle gets you off to a flying start, giving you the DTD157 impact driver along with the DHP490 combi drill in a two-piece combo kit.

The two tools offer wide-ranging drilling and driving capabilities. With the DHP490 combi drill, you get drill, hammer drill and screwdriver modes, plus two gears, a variable speed trigger and torque up to 65Nm. Meanwhile, the DTD157 impact driver has a hex. 1/4" drive shank and can turn a wide range of machine screws and bolts, with hard impact and soft impact modes ranging up to a mighty 140Nm of torque. Both tools boast a brushless motor and Makita’s famously on-point ergonomics.

In theory, this two-in-one combo should therefore offer the best value for money, and strong performance of both tools. As an experienced DIYer, I put them both through the ropes to see if the investment was worth it.

Where to buy the Makita DLX2539ST 2-Piece Combo Kit LXT

Key specifications

• Cordless tool family: Makita LXT
• Intended uses include: drilling wood, plastic, metal and masonry; driving screws and lugs
• Battery capacity: 5.0Ah (x2)
• Voltage: 18V
• Drill speed: 0 - 500 / 1,900 min⁻¹
• Impact driver torque: 140Nm (max)

What's included

• Makita DHP490 cordless combi drill
• Makita DTD157 impact driver
• 2 x 18V, 5.0Ah lithium-ion batteries
• DC18SD battery charger
• Hard carry case

Both tools included are 18V models from Makita’s LXT range, and they can also be bought individually. The Makita DHP490Z 18V Cordless Brushless Combi Drill costs £68.50 from B&Q as a bare unit without the battery, while the Makita Impact Driver DTD157Z, also from B&Q and again as a bare unit, costs £62.99.

However, buying both tools together as the DLX2539ST kit could represent the best value, as also included in the set are two 18V, 5.0Ah lithium-ion batteries, the Makita Battery Charger LXT DC18SD (which can also charge 14.4V Makita batteries), and a slimline hardcase to store and carry the set.

How I tested

I tested the Makita DLX2539ST 2-Piece Combo Kit LXT by using it for an appropriate selection of DIY tasks, including drilling into brick and installing fixings.

1. Hammer-drilling holes in brick

Among the dozens of cordless combi drills I’ve tested, the Makita DHP490 from this kit is one of the very best at drilling into hard, dense materials like brick and breeze blocks. I’ve used many different models to drill holes in my home’s walls, which are built from very hard brick, and this has proven difficult with some drills. The DHP490 took around 30 seconds to perform the same job that demanded several minutes of struggle with competing models. My only gripe was that the chuck struggled to keep a secure hold of certain narrow drill bits.

You can see the sort of project that’s easily achievable with this drill in my article on how to hang shelves.

2. Driving screws

Both of these tools can drive screws. The DHP490 combi drill performs the task perfectly well, with its choice of 20 torque settings, two gears and the variable speed trigger collectively giving you excellent control over the force applied to the screw.

But it’s the DTD157 impact driver that really excels in this area. With a hex screwdriver bit securely installed in the collar, it turns fastenings with impressive power. I found this tool extremely helpful when working with long or stubborn screws that had proven impossible for me to turn using a screwdriver or combi drill. Just take care not to apply excessive force, as this can strip the drive on a screw – especially if the screw is relatively low-quality.

3. Drilling into wood

This is another job for the DHP490 cordless drill. I found that it worked quickly and powerfully when drilling into test pieces of hardwood and engineered board, boring neat holes with minimal effort. Where holes needed to be especially neat, I used the gear selector to choose the lower rev range for highly controlled drilling.

Ease of use

Even though this power tool kit is aimed at the more experienced end of the DIY market, it’s no more difficult to use than an equivalent set for occasional users or beginners. The controls, such as the direction selectors on both tools, and the mode selection collar on the cordless drill, work fluidly and intuitively. Charging the batteries is as easy as slotting one onto the charger.

If you’re new to using impact drivers, then you might face a slight learning curve with this component of the Makita kit. An impact driver typically has higher torque than a comparable cordless drill, which means drill bits and screws are subjected to stronger force. That’s generally a good thing, but it means you should use high-quality screws and extras such as this Makita E-12011 10 Piece Impact Black Bit Set from Amazon to minimise the risk of these components breaking, or the screws being stripped. In routine use, the DTD157 impact driver is even simpler to use than the DHP490 combi drill.

Battery performance

The Makita DLX2539ST kit never let me down in terms of battery life. Between the two included batteries you have ten amp-hours of work potential, which proved more than enough to get me through a day of DIY. I found that the included charger could recharge one of these hefty batteries within less than two hours, so there’s scope to power one of them back up during a mid-renovation meal break.

As with all lithium-ion batteries, the ones supplied with this kit will noticeably degrade after a number of years (or after sustained heavy use). You’ll maximise their good performance by following good battery maintenance practices, such as keeping the batteries charged to a moderate level and storing them at room temperature.

Who should buy it?

Clearly, this twin-set of tools is most relevant to users who will make good use of an impact driver, as well as a cordless combi drill. If you’re a keen DIYer and you often need to drive large or awkward screws, then using the impact driver will make this easier.

With this Makita bundle, you can work quickly by using the drill to make holes, and the impact driver to install fastenings into them. As there are two batteries included, you won’t even need to switch this component between actions (unless one battery is recharging).

On the other hand, I wouldn’t recommend this kit to casual DIYers who would rarely use the impact driver. If this sounds like you, then you might be better off buying the Makita DHP490SFX2 18V 1 x 3.0Ah Li-Ion LXT Brushless Cordless Combi Drill & Drill Bit Set from Screwfix that comes with the same drill, plus a high quality set of drill bits and other accessories in place of the impact driver.

Final verdict

True to form, Makita has delivered an impressive and capable power tool kit. The combi drill and the impact driver are both excellent tools in their own right, and when used together during complicated DIY projects they can bring a welcome boost in speed and convenience. Battery life and recharging are excellent, and the hard carry case is a smart and practical solution for keeping the set in good and orderly condition.

I have only a few gripes to mention – a drill chuck that’s not ideal for the narrowest drill bits, and a price that will put off some occasional DIYers – but neither is a deal breaker. The Makita DLX2539ST 2-Piece Combo Kit LXT is another powerful piece of evidence that Makita is the ultimate ‘prosumer’ brand for DIYers who are taking their home renovations seriously.

Robot vacuum and mop technology has taken a major leap in recent years, with brands competing on suction power, navigation and automated cleaning systems.

I own a range of models, but the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete Robot Vacuum Cleaner (available from Curry's) is meant to stand out from the crowd with stronger suction, extended mop reach and improved obstacle handling.

I put it through real-world testing to see how it performs in a typical home environment and whether it really stacks up against the best on the market.

Design, specs and key features

The MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete is positioned as a high-end robot vacuum and mop with a focus on deep cleaning and edge coverage.

It features a high suction system rated up to around 28,000Pa, placing it among the strongest on the market and ahead of many competitors in its class. For comparison, models like the eufy Omni C28 (which I also tested) typically sit around 15,000Pa, while Roborock and Ecovacs' flagship units often range between 7,000–12,000Pa.

A key differentiator is its extendable mop arm system, which actively pushes outward during cleaning to reach edges and corners. This is something most circular robot vacuums struggle with due to their fixed round mop footprints.

The Z60 Ultra Roller Complete includes a full self-maintaining docking station handling dust emptying, mop washing, drying and water refilling.

A nice added feature was that it also came with replacement dust bags, mop pads, cleaning solution, filters and rollers, reducing early running costs compared with many rivals where consumables often need replacing within months.

Cleaning performance and real-world testing

I tested the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete on a range of floors and I have to say it delivered strong results, with deep cleaning performance that was noticeably more effective than its competitors.

It handled dust, fine debris, and pet hair effectively, and the mop system provided consistent water distribution without obvious streaking.

However, where it stood out most was edge and corner cleaning. The extendable mop arms allowed it to reach into areas that circular systems typically miss, giving a more complete clean along walls and furniture edges compared with standard robotic mops.

In testing on thick black carpet and hallway transitions, the vacuum demonstrated strong adaptability across different floor types and obstacles. It is capable of climbing thresholds of around 4.5cm, with manufacturer claims suggesting up to 8cm in multi-step configurations, placing it well above many competing robot vacuums.

This makes it particularly effective in homes with mixed flooring and higher doorway transitions, where many circular robot vacuums can struggle or become stuck.

That said, cleaning time could be slow. A single 10m² room on deep clean mode took up to 30 minutes, particularly when the robot was performing repeated scanning passes or re-checking layout data.

Navigation, limitations and usability issues

Despite its strong cleaning ability, navigation is where the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete shows its weaknesses.

In testing, it frequently bumped into objects and occasionally struggled with tight spaces, with wheel entrapment happening more often than expected for a premium model. This is less common in systems such as Roborock Qrevo (available on Amazon) and Ecovacs' Deebot X11 (also on Amazon), which typically use more advanced obstacle avoidance.

It also had a tendency to re-clean areas unnecessarily, even outside of deep clean mode, which increased total cleaning time and reduced efficiency in smaller spaces.

Mapping and scanning were also slow, especially in unfamiliar environments, making initial setup and first runs noticeably longer than rival systems. Battery drain was also significant under high-power or deep clean modes, meaning it performed best in open-plan layouts where it could return to its dock more easily.

Is the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete the best robot vacuum cleaner?

This model delivers strong deep cleaning performance, impressive edge coverage and one of the most complete automation packages currently available on the market.

Its extendable mop system and high suction power give it a clear advantage over circular rivals in detailed cleaning tasks, particularly along edges and hard-to-reach areas.

However, its navigation inconsistencies, occasional object collisions and slow cleaning cycles mean it is not the most efficient option for every home. While it performs best in open-plan spaces where it can operate continuously from its dock, it may feel less refined in cluttered or complex environments.

Overall, the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete Robot Vacuum Cleaner is a powerful cleaning system that competes strongly at the top end of the market, but whether it is the “best” depends on whether you prioritise deep cleaning power over speed and navigation precision.

Found this helpful? You may also want to read our buying guide on the best vacuum cleaners for builder's dust or our review of the Henry HVR160.

Tiling around a toilet isn’t easy. The curves and bends provide a challenge for any DIYer. Get it wrong, and you will have to break out a new tile and start over. Or you could be spending forever removing tiny slivers of tile to get a good fit.

Whether you are laying floor tiles, wall tiles or using peel-and-stick tiles, the principles remain very much the same. But the techniques to achieve the curve and fit you need can differ depending on different factors.

Here, I explain the three steps you need to follow and the different methods you can use to try and achieve the perfect fit when cutting tiles around your toilet.

Step one: marking the curve

Cutting curves in a tile needs to be done accurately in order to ensure a good fit, and it all starts with marking out the curve correctly

These are the four tried and tested methods I've tried and tested.

1. Create a cardboard template

Creating a template is an old-school method, but it works well. However, you need to be patient to get the best results. Stephen Russell, independent tiler of Ashley Cross Tiling, says, “use a piece of cardboard to mark the curve and cut to shape. Don’t rush the process. If you do, you might need to start again.”

First, place the tile onto the cardboard, mark it with a pencil and then cut the cardboard with large wallpaper scissors. Alternatively, you can use a sharp steel snap-off knife, such as this Wolfcraft Metal Snap-Off Blade Knife from Amazon.

Now measure from the edge of the tile you are laying next to the toilet or object. Start at one end of the tile, take measurements every 50mm, and mark them on the template. This gives you a rough outline of the curve.

Next, make a cut on the template from the edge to be removed, just past the marks you made previously. Do this every 10mm. You’ll now have a set of strands that are flexible. Place the template where the tile is going to go, and don’t forget the gap for the grout if using stone or ceramic tiles.

Finally, press around the area (I use the end of a pencil) where the template meets the curve to create a crisp crease. Mark the shape with a pencil, pick up the template and cut along the mark. Put the template in place and check that it matches up as expected. If too tight to the curve, trim and check again. When happy, transfer to the tile.

An alternative is to use construction paper; the process is the same, but the material is usually slightly easier to cut. This method works a treat as long as you take your time. And don’t forget the grout gap.

2. Use a contour gauge

A contour gauge, such as this Dodowin contour gauge profile tool from Amazon (which I have), is a quick and easy way to get an accurate curve. Simply hold in place and push against the curve. Then transfer to a tile and mark with a pencil.

A contour gauge doesn’t have much depth; mine is around 70mm. However, you can turn and use the full length (in my case, 25cm) of the gauge to profile a longer curve.

Shop these tools for great curved tile cuts

3. Measure and mark

If you don’t have a piece of cardboard or a contour gauge handy, you can go freestyle and just measure and mark. I simply take a measurement every 20mm and mark on the tile. Then, join the marks freehand.

This method works well, but you need to take your time, as there’s no room for error. And don’t forget the grout gap. I use a straight edge and a pencil and mark the gap on the floor (or wall), so I don’t forget where to measure from.

4. Homemade hack

I’ve also used a child's school compass as a quick way to create a curve on a template, which you can transfer to a tile. I’ve also used it to mark plank-style tiles directly. This works well on the long side of an object (like a toilet) with a gentle curve.

I generally use a pencil to mark the curve, but a felt tip can work if the pencil isn’t working well, and the tile doesn’t stain.

Step two: Marking the tile to cut

There are a few options to mark a tile so you know where to cut. This will depend on the type of tile. “Use a pencil, as a felt tip pen can sometimes stain certain types of tile," warns Stephen Russell.

Felt tips are typically used on glazed tiles because they can be easily wiped clean. "Make sure you double check they wipe off cleanly on a test tile first," adds Harriet Goodacre, interiors and tiling expert from Topps Tiles, "as you don’t want any unsightly marks left on your brand new tiles."

The other option is to use a tile scribe. “A tile scribe can be used to lightly score the surface of the tile where you need to cut it, explains Harriet. "It’s especially useful when you want a guide that won’t rub away during the cutting process.

“The key is visibility without going too deep," she notes, "as too heavy scoring can lead to chipping.”

Step three: cutting the curve on the tile

There are a few options for cutting a curve once the tile has been marked out. “For curved cuts, it all comes down to how tight the shape and bend is and what the tile’s made from,” advises Harriet Goodacre.

For small curves, a pair of tile nippers is usually sufficient. For larger curves, both our experts, and I, recommend an angle grinder.

“Ease the angle grinder through the marked line using the weight of the angle grinder; do not use added force,” says Stephen Russell.

“Keep running through the angle grinder several times, don’t cut right through the tile when you start," he adds, noting how you also need to make sure you use a masonry disc to cut with.

Alternatively, you can use an electric tile cutter such as this Titan Electric Tile Cutter from Screwfix. This only allows straight cuts, so the technique is to make cuts every 10-20mm from the edge of the tile to the marked-out curve. Ideally, use a tile scribe to mark the curve, then you can snap off each thin tile strand and finish with tile nippers and a metal file such as this TARIST Half Round Metal File from Amazon, for smooth edges

For small, more intricate curves, you can use a tile saw. Good for wall tiles, but you might find you struggle with thicker floor tiles.

You might have seen a few videos online where a tiler uses a manual tile cutter, such as this Vitrex Heavy Duty Tile Cutter from Toolstation, to cut a curve. I can promise you this takes plenty of practice and is best avoided for most DIYers.

If you’re tiling a bathroom floor, you’ll need to know how many tiles you'll need. Especially if cutting curves around a toilet. Find out where to get the best deals with our where to buy bathroom floor tiles guide, or, for inspiration on what to buy, check out our bathroom floor tile ideas.

A cordless drill is an essential tool for any DIYer, so choosing a good one is important. Invest in a poor choice, and it won’t be long before you’ll be looking at spending again. The latest cordless drill to cross my path is the Einhell TP-CD 18/50, an everyday drill aimed at DIYers.

This is the first time I’ve encountered an Einhell drill, so I was excited to see what it had to offer. As a package, it’s making all the right noises, and it comes in at a very tempting price point.

Would it finally be time to say goodbye to my faithful old Black and Decker cordless drill and let the Einhell take its place? Time to find out.

Buy the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 drill today

Spec and features

• Motor type: Brushless motor
• Torque: 50 Nm
• Gears: 2
• Battery type: Lithium Ion
• Battery voltage: 18v
• Weight: 2.35kg
• Chuck capacity: 2mm-13mm
• Features: LED work light, torque adjustment collar, battery level indicator, 1 x hard carry case, 1 x drill body, 1x battery charger, 2 x 2.0Ah batteries, 1 x belt clip, instruction manual

First impressions

Who doesn’t love a power tool that comes with its own hard case? Any type of case is a winner, as it helps protect a power tool, but the Einhell hard case gives the impression of being a long-term friend to the Einhell drill.

It's a solid plastic case with a bright red lid emblazoned with the brand name. At least it will be easy to find. Inside, it is lined with egg box foam padding (one side) and flat foam padding on the other. This ensures that the drill, batteries and charger aren’t thrown around and damaged when on the move.

The drill body feels sturdy and well-built, and sits neatly in the hand, with the rubberised grip giving a secure feel. The LED light instantly makes an appearance when the trigger sets the drill into life (my battery was charged and ready to go). Can I switch this off? Not sure (yet), but it might be good if I could switch it off when not needed as it would help save battery life.

Setting up

As you might expect, there’s not much work involved in setting up a cordless drill. Slide in the battery and you’re ready to go. The battery was already charged, so it could be used straight out of the box which is a nice touch.

What you do need to do is familiarise yourself with the torque selector and the selector switch. The selector switch lets you choose between driving, drilling and impact drilling (the hammer function).

You will need to combine this with the most suitable torque setting to help ensure you get the best from the Einhell TP-CD 18/50. To add a little more to the mix, there are two gears which help you fine-tune performance. There’s a lot going on, so if you are an inexperienced DIYer, you should read the instruction manual fully before you start.

Performance

The fun part of any review is using the product itself, and a new cordless drill is always going to see plenty of action. To kick off, I thought I’d ease myself into using the Einhell TP-CD 18/50with some simple wood screwing tasks. There are no drill bits or a bit holder included, so I used what I already had. The 13mm chuck is easy to use, but slightly different from other drills I’ve used. But it did what it needed to do, without any problems.

I started with 100mm screws for screwing fence panels into wooden posts. With the screw selector in position and the torque setting set to 11, off I went. This worked as expected, but on tougher parts, I had to turn the torque up to the maximum level to finish.

I struggled with one screw in particular, so I switched over to my old cordless drill to see how it compared. The Einhell TP-CD 18/50 was definitely doing a better job, probably thanks to its extra torque (50 Nm compared with 40 Nm).

Like all good drills, the drill stops when it reaches its managed torque level. This ensures you have more control over the drill and don’t go too deep with a screw, which could split the wood. So start low and turn up the torque until you get the level you want.

Tackling heavy duty DIY drilling tasks

Switching the selector to drill or hammer mode eliminates the need to choose a torque setting, with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 automatically switching to maximum output. Perfect for the next set of DIY tasks I had in mind.

Next up was drilling into exterior brickwork, and using my spade drill bit to create recesses in a fence post, ready for the concrete screws. The Einhell TP-CD 18/50 zipped through the timber with no problem.

Switching over to my DeWALT masonry drill bits, putting it into second gear, the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 powered into the brickwork with relative ease. At one point, the drill bit did stick, but I simply retightened the chuck and carried on.

Next up was a move indoors to put up some heavy-duty shelf brackets. Drilling into my interior walls has been hard work in the past. But the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 provided all the power I needed to drill deep enough for the Rawl plugs and screws to be inserted.

I also managed to do all the tasks mentioned without having to swap over the battery. So, I decided to keep going on other DIY tasks to get a better idea of battery life. Overall, I have to say I was very happy with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50's performance so far.

Shop these tools to use with a cordless drill

Battery life

Battery life is key for any cordless tool, and the 18V 2.0Ah batteries supplied with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 didn’t disappoint. The charger features a set of easy-to-understand icons that make it clear what stage the charging is at. Red and green LEDs make sure you don’t get confused.

Charging times using the supplied charger were pretty swift, taking just 40 minutes to reach a full charge and be ready to go. This would be ideal if you only had one battery, but with two batteries on offer, I always had a fully charged battery ready to replace the other when needed.

You might think that quick charging times mean short working times, but this wasn’t the case with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50. A fully charged battery lasted around 45 minutes to an hour. In real terms, that meant I tackled a whole host of DIY jobs over the weekend and didn’t need to replace the battery. And when I did, I had a fully charged battery ready to replace.

A trio of LED lights on the battery can be activated with a quick press of a button to indicate remaining power. Confusingly, the lights were red, rather than green, but I can live with that.

Final verdict

If you’re looking for an everyday drill that can tackle pretty much any DIY task that you can throw at it, then the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 Cordless Brushless Combi Drill is definitely one you need to add to your list. It offers plenty of torque (50Nm) for a standard cordless drill, which sits at the top end of what you usually get at this level.

For less than £100, you get a solid drill, two batteries, a charger, and a hard case, which, in my opinion, makes it good value for money. You might not get any drill or screwdriver bits with it, which would have been nice, but a charger and two batteries more than make up for this. On the plus side, you can choose the bits you need rather than getting a bunch you may never use.

Throw in quick charge times and decent working times, and there’s little that I didn't like about the Einhell TP-CD 18/50. How long it stays as my number one drill, only time will tell.

Not every DIYer has the same definition of budget when looking to buy power tools, so for clarity, in this article, I’m going to focus mainly on budget brands and power tools that sit at the low end of the price scale. However, I have included a well-known power tool brand for balance and curiosity.

Just remember that budget doesn’t have to mean bad. Better-known brands like Makita and DEWALT undoubtedly produce good-quality tools, but they are typically aimed beyond the DIY market and are built for everyday use, meaning they cost more. Budget power tools rarely have the same build quality, but you can still find quality for DIY use.

Here I share the 5 budget tools I've been using for years and what to consider when shopping for your own affordable tool kit.

Five power tools I didn’t spend big on and are still going today

1. Black+Decker cordless drill

A drill is the king of power tools for DIYers. It’s one tool that every level of DIYer owns, and it's often the first power tool they buy. It's been a while since I bought my first power tool, but my current cordless drill from Black+Decker has been with me for over ten years. And it didn’t cost big bucks back when I bought it.

However, it's been with me so long that the specific model I have is no longer available. But the current incarnation (see below) is well-priced and a great choice for basic drilling and screwing.

If you want something more powerful, then I can recommend the Einhell TE-CD 18 Cordless Combi Drill (available from Screwfix). I’ve just got this, and I’m liking it. Hopefully, it will last as long as my existing Black+Decker model.

2. Black+Decker detail sander

I know it's another Black+Decker power tool, but I’ve always found them to be a good choice for DIY jobs, and this handy little detail sander works a treat and costs just over £20. I’ve had mine for over five years, and it’s done my stairs, spindles and bannisters. It’s also sanded dozens of doors, door frames, architraves, window frames, window sills and skirting boards. In fact, most of the woodwork in my home – and it's still going strong.

The only things I've had to change are the plug (I broke it) and the sandpaper pads. And if it does go wrong, I‘ve only got to shell out another £22.

3. Von Haus orbital sander

I had never heard of VonHaus before their orbital sander made its way into my hands. But I needed a new sander, read a few reviews, and thought I’d take a chance. I can’t remember how much I paid for it, but it wasn’t a lot, and I’ve had it for around four years. It’s been a faithful companion to my detail sander, so it's seen a lot of action.

Alongside all the jobs my detail sander has tackled, this orbital sander has done even more. It has sanded plywood and MDF sheets, refreshed my garden furniture, and even helped sand floorboards.

Its easy-to-use variable-speed feature is very helpful when sanding and probably helps prolong its life, as it's not always in top gear. And, like my Black+Decker mouse, it's still going strong, and the current price point (just under £30) makes it worth considering.

4. MacAllister circular saw

MacAllister was another brand I had never heard of when I bought their circular saw. But my thinking was a little different. I needed a circular saw, and on one of my many trips to B&Q, I spotted the Mac Allister 190mm corded circular saw at a very affordable price. So I bought it.

Here we are over three years later, and it's still working fine. It has cut through numerous sheets of plywood and MDF, helping me build wardrobes, shelving units, shelves, flooring, and timber partitions.

As you might expect, it's not cordless, so you’ll need an extension lead (like this STATUS 2 Socket Cable Reel from Amazon) to ensure you’re in the right place when you need to be. The blade is an all-rounder with 24 teeth which is great for ripping through timber and board, but you might need something more subtle if looking for a finer cut.

5. Makita mitre saw

I have to be honest and say that my Makita mitre saw isn’t at the budget end of the price scale, but I think it's definitely good value for money. This is one of my most recent acquisitions, and I decided to invest a bit more as I had the budget to do so. And I was curious, and wanted to see the quality I would get from a well-known brand.

It's fair to say I wasn’t disappointed. This saw is sturdy and well-built, with a general air of quality. The Makita LS0714N/1 190mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw (available from Screwfix) has helped me build custom fence panels and lay wooden floors, ensuring I get crisp, clean and even edges, and angles where needed.

If you don’t want to spend a lot, there are plenty of cheaper alternatives that will do a decent job. Worx and Metabo (like this Metabo KGS 216 Slide Compound Mitre Saw from Amazon) are good mid-range options, while Evolution power tools are a good budget option as well.

How to choose budget power tools

If you are an occasional DIYer, you will probably use your power tools only a few times a year. Even if you’re a keen DIYer, it's unlikely all your power tools will be called into action every weekend.

And, when you do call upon your power tools, some will be called into action more than others. For example, a drill is probably going to get a lot more use than an angle grinder, so it makes sense not to buy really cheap tools that you use the most. Read reviews and take a chance; most of the time you won’t be disappointed.

I’ve bought a lot of budget power tools, and they rarely let me down. And when they have, it's been very soon after purchasing, so I’ve been able to take them back under the warranty and get them replaced.

My general advice is always to consider how much use a power tool will get and buy accordingly. If it's going to get a lot of use, spend at the top end of your budget. If unsure, buy a budget brand and see how it goes. What's the worst that can happen? It might only last a couple of years. Alternatively, it could last for years like my budget power tools have.

Also, compare budget brand prices with cheaper versions of well-known brands. You might get something that costs a bit more, but may last longer and offers more features.

Finally, I suggest you buy high-quality accessories such as drill bits and sanding discs. Accessories supplied with budget models are, as a general rule, low in quality.

FAQs

Who makes budget power tools?

Take a search on Amazon, and we guarantee that you’ll find a whole range of power tool brands you have never heard of alongside the more established ones. Take a trip to your local B&Q, and you’ll notice some very competitively priced power tools under the MacAllister name. They also have a brand called Erbauer. Screwfix has a brand called Titan, and even Lidl has some smart power tool bargains under the Parkside banner. These are all own-brand power tools.

Most budget tools come from manufacturers that already make power tools. As an example, the Parkside brand (found in Lidl) is owned by the Einhell group, based in Germany, which produces its own power tools. B&Q and Screwfix are both part of the Kingfisher group. So it's safe to assume many of their power tools come from the same source.

Brands like B&Q with their own brand power tools still want a good reputation, so it makes sense that you are still getting a decent product when you opt for a more budget price tag.

The right power tools make any DIY project go that bit smoother. Call your sanders into action and get your prep right for must-see paint trends, matching skirting boards with your interior style and making the most of some smart wall panelling ideas.

You might think that owning four electric sanders is just plain greedy. Surely one is enough? Or maybe two if you are feeling extravagant. But it's not how many sanders you own that matters. What matters is that you have the right sander for whatever sanding project you are working on.

Use the wrong sander, and you will make the task more difficult and most likely not get the finish you should. I’ve built up my collection of sanders as DIY projects have come and gone, and my advice to you would be to do the same.

The following types of sander are what I have in my collection, and I find that each one is perfect for a different type of DIY task.

Orbital sander – my go-to option

If you only have one sander in your DIY toolkit, I’d make it an orbital sander.

The best orbital sanders are a great choice for most sanding jobs, especially on flat areas such as doors, window sills, tabletops and wooden kitchen worktops. It's also a good choice for sanding skirting boards.

For decorative items, such as architrave or ogee skirting boards, I use an orbital sander to tackle the flat areas before switching to an alternative option.

A key feature of random orbital sanders is that the sanding pad spins and oscillates simultaneously, which helps produce a smoother finish with fewer sanding marks. However, you will notice the marks if using coarser grits.

The best way to get rid of these is to progressively use finer grades if you need a smooth, mark-free finish for surfaces that will be varnished or polished rather than painted. I suggest you use an 80- or 120-grit for the first run, followed by a 240-grit to finish.

Great for: doors, tabletops, wooden kitchen worktops, sanding down wall filler.

Detail sander – when detail comes calling

An orbital sander may be a great all-rounder, but when it comes to 90-degree angles, its round sanding pad simply doesn’t fit. This is when you need to embrace the triangular sanding pad of a detail sander.

A detail sander is perfect for a whole host of DIY jobs. The most common jobs I use it for are stairs and doors. My latest detail sander is a BLACK+DECKER Mouse (available from B&Q), which has a compact design and fits neatly in the hand, making it easy to get into corners and edges on stairs and ideal for panels on a door.

But these are not the only areas I use it. I’ve used it on flat stair spindles, bannisters, furniture, corners and edges on walls and ceiling, for sanding MDF edges and small filled wall holes, among others.

Some detail sanders, including mine, have an extension (known as a ‘finger’ or similar). These fit on top of the pad, making it easier to get into tight corners and areas like door slats. If you don’t have one, check whether your sander has the capability, and check online for one like this OTOTEC 2PCS Sander Finger Platen on Amazon.

Great for: door panels, board edges, stairs, small filled holes.

Sheet sander – ready to finish up

The beauty of a sheet sander is that it typically has a larger sanding pad than other sanders (like this Makita BO3710 Sheet Sander from Amazon). This covers more area with each pass, effectively removing more material faster. However, some sheet sanders have a smaller square pad, which makes them great for straight edges and corners.

My sheet sander, which has the larger rectangular pad, is used much less than my orbital or detail sander. I typically use it for sanding plywood and MDF to get a fine finish on the face of the board and to smooth out the edges to match.

Another bonus is that I don’t need specific sanding discs to fit the sander, like an orbital sander, detail sander, or belt sander. I just buy sheets of sandpaper in the grits I want and cut them to fit the pad. This works out cheaper.

Great for: large flat areas such as doors, walls, boards (plywood, MDF, OSB), corners and edges.

Belt sander – when you need more power and speed

Belt sanders are not for fine finishing, and while a useful sander to have, in my opinion, they are not a necessary purchase unless you have a DIY project that benefits from what they have to offer. And that's exactly why I have a belt sander.

The reason I purchased a belt sander (like this Lumberjack 4" Belt Sander from B&Q) was to give my old parquet floor a refresh. I didn’t want the cost of replacing the floor or destroying the original floor. There’s an art to using a belt sander to sand floors, so I suggest you get a few practice runs in before starting on flooring that will be on display. It's easy to get unwanted ridges.

Since then, I’ve used my belt sander to level out floorboards, remove paint from old doors (again, wanted to keep costs down and retain the original doors), and finish off old boarded floors (remove leftover glue debris and rough areas, ready for new flooring). They are typically more expensive than other sanders, but I would say they are definitely worth the investment.

Great for: levelling floorboards, smoothing out rough timber, material removal on larger areas. It can also be used to sand engineered wood flooring.

Shop these sanders and add to your toolbox

Multi-tool sander attachment – a bonus addition for greater flexibility

I know I’ve already covered most bases when it comes to sanding, but alongside my four sanders, I do have a multitool with a sanding attachment. The sanding pad on my Black + Decker MultiEvo Multitool is very much the standard triangle shape, making it ideal for small detail jobs.

Do you need one? Not if you already own a detail sander. However, if you already own a multitool, it will most likely have a sanding attachment, so you don’t need to invest in a detail sander. I’m lucky to have both, so I use whichever is closest at hand and has the right grit sandpaper for whatever I’m working on.

Great for: panelled doors, wall repairs, shelf edges, window sills, door frames, skirting boards

Do you really need four different sanders?

There isn’t a simple yes or no answer to this question. What you do need is a sander that fits the job you are doing. If looking to remove material, fast, from a surface, a belt sander is a more obvious choice than a detail sander.

However, as a general guide, for most common DIY projects, I would recommend a random orbital sander and detail sander as the best combo. This deals with most flat surfaces, corners, and edges. However, if you are straying into larger, more heavy-duty DIY tasks, then sheet sanders and belt sanders will be needed.

I would start with an orbital and detail sander and add as needed. Also, if you do a lot of sanding, I would suggest stepping up the quality ladder and making a larger investment in your tools. Brands such as DeWalt and Makita are quality DIY products. If you really want to spend big, Festool and Mirka are good brands to consider.

Sanding is all part of the preparation process, commonly used to get wood ready for painting. Sanding walls can also be a smart move to ensure the surface is smooth and ready for paint application.

Sanding can obviously be a messy job, but there are ways to make sanding less dusty, such as using a sander that captures dust at source.

Spring is when most households start cleaning up their homes ready for summer – but there is one job I tend to strongly dislike, and that is pressure washing.

I've found it often difficult to find all the parts when you first get it out of the garage, before ending up being a job that takes all day, leaves you soaking wet and filthy dirty.

So when I was offered the chance to try a fancy new pressure washer from Kärcher that claimed to be "comfortable", I must admit I was suspicious about whether it really could make this particular task less nasty.

The Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium, which was launched in January, certainly looked smart from all the promotional material online. With its black and yellow ergonomic look, five-year warranty and 145 bar of pressure, it seemed to have an edge compared to some of other best pressure washers in a similar high-end price bracket.

Unboxing

The box the pressure washer came in was substantial, but despite being heavy, I was able to move it myself from where the delivery man left it, using the plastic straps.

The bright, yellow design was smart and immediately identifiable as holding a Kärcher pressure washer. This was great in terms of visual appeal, but worth noting to be aware of perhaps not leaving a newly-delivered box unattended outside a property in any crime-prone areas. You wouldn't want your expensive new machine being stolen before having the chance to even use it.

When it came to unboxing, this was straightforward and I was especially impressed that there was very little plastic inside, just one sheet, plus the straps to hold the box together on the exterior. The pressure washer was thoughtfully cushioned with cardboard to avoid any damage in transit instead, with all the different parts wedged together so they didn't move around too much. The instruction manual was on top, and easy to find on opening.

Ease of setting up

The Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium came with an instruction manual that was reasonably easy-to-follow from the diagrams, although it was a little unclear which part of the pressure washer to start constructing first, possibly because it didn't actually matter in what order it was put together. This took around 30 minutes.

Overall I found the assembly straight forward, with the only slightly fiddly bit being affixing the hose to the trigger gun, which is designed to be removable for storage. I didn't fully understand the need for the yellow pouch on the front, but suspect this might be to do with storing additional features that can be purchased.

I was liked the way the universal cleaner slotted straight into the machine ready for automatic dispersal through a specific setting on the rotating nozzle on the lance. I was looking forward to giving this a go.

First impressions

Once the Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium was fully constructed, I gave it a good look over before putting it to the test by cleaning my very dirty patio. It didn't fail to impress, being just as slick in person compared to how it looked online.

The build-quality was excellent – made from 25% recycled materials – with no sign of any flimsy parts, or anything that looked weak enough to break. The fixings were well oiled, and all the buttons had a nice firm feel to them as they were pressed. One thing to watch was the grey trigger on the lance did catch my skin once, which nipped a bit.

The product has been well thought out in its design. The grey hose can be removed from the trigger gun (although this took some fiddling around with to work out how), with a reel for tidying it away when not in use. Meanwhile, the lance itself could be broken down into two sections with two holders on the front to slot them into when packed away.

My only slight surprise was how heavy the machine was at 13.8kg, making it rather cumbersome to lift over the gravel and steps in my garden, without bashing it into things accidentally. The handle on the top was useful for lifting, and any flat surfaces were easy to tackle as the K5 had a decent pair of wheels, and the ability to extend the handle to pull it or push it along.

Ease of use

I had a very dirty patio to test the Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium on, but this pressure washer is suitable for all sorts of things, from cleaning decking, removing weeds from a patio or even washing your car on a lower setting.

You generally aren't advised to use pressure washers on some patios, due to the chance of too much force blowing any crumbling mortar or grout away, or even causing damage to the slabs themselves. However, we only laid this patio last year and it was a robust limestone, so I was fairly confident that the grout and slabs were in good shape.

Despite the slabs being fairly newly-laid, I was surprised by just how dirty they had become over winter, which was in part because we have lots of trees overhanging it, it is fairly low lying, and we have lots of animals unleashing their business on it (the dachshund and chickens being the worst offenders).

Wheeling out the Kärcher K5 for the pressure washing

I used an outdoor plug socket to plug in the K5, and was relieved to find that the cable had enough length (five metres) to not need a series of extension leads, as I have found with cheaper models in the past. The cable tidy on the machine was also well designed, enough to be able to undo just enough length for what I needed, rather than having to pull the whole lot off. This made it much easier to use.

I struggled to attach the trigger gun to the grey hose until I turned the electric supply off, which I don't know if that was a safety feature, or just me failing to put it together. I then connected my yellow garden hose water supply to the black hose pipe connector on the machine and turned the tap on. This is where I have ended up making myself soaking wet with cheap pressure washers in the past, and was thrilled to see that the connection held perfectly with the K5 Comfort Premium. My garden hose didn't ping off, or come loose to squirt water in my face.

Making a start on washing the patio

Finally, I was ready to give the pressure washer a go on the dirty patio.

I started with the lowest pressure washer setting – the "reduced pressure flat jet", selected by turning the nozzle on the end of the lance. This wetted the patio but didn't really cut through the grime, not the fault of the pressure washer I might add, but it did show just how tough the dirt on the patio was going to be to remove.

Next, I gave the "rotary nozzle" a go, which is like a circle of water and I guess the best setting to use when you have a patio cleaning accessory brush attached, that can be purchased separately. This was a little more powerful than the previous setting, but again not quite powerful enough to lift the sludge and algae off.

Deploying the detergent

The next symbol on the nozzle had bubbles on it and was the detergent setting. After twisting it to the bubbles and hitting the trigger, the product automatically flowed out in a flat jet that wasn't too powerful, or too gentle.

This enabled me to easily and quickly cover the already wet patio slabs with the universal detergent, which I could tell worked well as you could smell the detergent.

It's worth noting that this universal detergent is included with the K5 Comfort Premium, but you can also buy specific detergents that fix to the pressure washer for stone, wood, and cars.

Using the high pressure setting

When I finally got to it, the high-power setting really was a beast, pumping out an impressive 145 bar of pressure in a flat jet, and whipping any dirt, algae and other nasties right off the stone. The grime came off quickly too, leaving a clear line between the cleaned and uncleaned areas. Afterwards, I switched to a lower pressure setting to wash the dirty water off the slabs and finish the job.

The hose pipe connector on the pressure washer held firm throughout, and I didn't get squirted in the face with water once throughout the job, which was a win.

I did have a bit of difficulty when I fully uncoiled the grey pressure washer hose from the reel, as it was a little stiff, making it tricky to straighten out. This meant it did tangle with my yellow garden hose water supply a little. That said, I have yet to find a pressure washer that doesn't do this. Importantly, the hose was very robust and well-made with a rubber-like texture, and therefore unlikely to ever split with normal use.

Final thoughts

My patio is fairly large, and cleaning it with the K5 Comfort Premium pressure washer was actually very speedy, taking an hour maximum to do the whole thing. It was sparkling clean too, with no damage – plus even the dog decided it was so clean she went off to the grass to do her business there instead.

As someone who does not enjoy pressure washing, I did find it surprisingly satisfying blasting the jet at the patio and making nice clean lines in the dirt as I went. And while you will still get a mild arm ache at holding the lance, I did not get soaking wet and dirty for once (whoop), plus it was easy to pack away afterwards. I gave the K5 unit a clean by spraying it over on a low pressure setting, before reeling up the grey hose, tidying the electric cable away, and wheeling it back to the garage.

It was much faster to clean the patio with the Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium compared to the faffing around with models I've used in the past. This meant the body ache I usually feel was hugely reduced, and I saved far more time in setting it up, carrying out the job and also packing it away.

For me, this absolutely justified how the machine gets its name as the "comfort premium", because getting any pressure washing job done swiftly is a lot more comfortable (both physically and mentally) than spending hours and hours trying to finish the job, and clean yourself up afterwards.

Professional carpenters tend to have many types of saws in their workshop – but if you’re a keen DIYer or hobbyist woodworker, budget or space restrictions might mean you need to choose: track saw vs table saw.

There are similarities between these tools – both options are among the easiest ways to get straight cuts with a circular saw blade. However, you’ll also find important differences between the two, and using the most appropriate option will contribute to the safety, ease and success of your projects.

This article is here to help you choose the right type of saw for your projects: track saw or table saw. Read on for expert advice provided by a saw brand and a power tool retailer, plus some recommended tools of each type.

Table saws

A table saw has a fixed circular blade, which is mounted into a table that provides a worksurface to rest your workpiece (e.g. a wooden board). These tools incorporate a fence and mitre gauge to help guide your cuts.

“The blade sticks up through a flat tabletop surface and cuts material being passed across it – so instead of moving the saw through the material, you push the material through the blade,” says James Curran, head of D2C marketing at Evolution Power Tools. “

“Table saws can make long, straight, accurate cuts (rip cuts) in timber or in sheet materials like plywood, MDF or OSB. They produce consistent repeated cuts and handle crosscuts with a mitre gauge or sliding table.”

Shop table saws

Track saws

A track saw is a portable type of circular saw, mounted on an aluminium guide rail.

“Unlike a standard circular saw that is guided by hand, the track saw locks onto its rail to produce perfectly straight, splinter-free cuts,” says Curran.

“They can work on the floor, on a workbench or on-site, and you can use them to make long, clean, precise straight cuts, or make plunge cuts in the middle of a panel.”

In many cases, a standard circular saw can be converted into a track saw when used with a compatible track accessory.

Shop track saws

Which is better: track saw or table saw?

Precision and finish

Either a track saw or a table saw can cut precisely with a very good finish. Which is best largely comes down to the workpieces you’re cutting (as well as your cutting technique).

Table saws are particularly effective at neatly cutting smaller pieces – although you must take great care while guiding the workpiece towards the blade. Meanwhile, track saws are regarded as a good choice for making long cuts with clean edges. “Their anti‑splinter strips and fine‑tooth blades give very clean cuts with less tear-out, which makes them great for cutting kitchen worktops, plywood and laminate panels,” says Curran.

Winner: it depends what you’re cutting

Power and speed

If you have some repetitive woodworking tasks on your hands and you’d like to maximise the power and speed of cutting, then a table saw is likely your best bet.

“They are typically more powerful than track saws, and their larger motors and higher torque make them better for repeated heavy ripping,” says Curran.

“Table saws are faster and more consistent for cutting cabinetry or furniture, and for ripping long boards such as hardwoods or construction timber.”

Of course a good track saw will still be far quicker than alternatives such as a handheld saw or even an ordinary circular saw.

Winner: table saw

Ease of use

Using either a table saw or a track saw is achievable for many DIYers, but Dave Prime, procurement director at Power Tool World, believes that track saws are best for beginners. “They edge the table saw in terms of ease of use and safety, and they make it easier to get a higher quality finish to your work,” he says.

“Track saws require minimal set up, whereas a table saw will take more time to set up and adjust. There is also a safety element as the table saw has an exposed blade that requires guards and demands better technique.”

It’s worth bearing in mind that a table saw will take up far more space in your workshop (or shed!) than a track saw would. “Table saws are obviously bulkier and they’re usually designed to be the centrepiece of your workshop, whereas track saws are more portable,” says Prime.

Curran adds that with a table saw, “there’s worse risk when the saw is used incorrectly, due to the exposed blade”.

Winner: track saw

Versatility

With either a track saw or a table saw, the size and material of the blade arguably has a greater impact on versatility than the type of saw. The larger the blade is, the thicker the material it can cut, while multi-material blades open up the possibility of cutting materials such as steel and aluminium, as well as wood.

With that said, one type of saw is definitely superior to the other when it comes to cutting wide workpieces. “Track saws are the more versatile choice for sheet materials,” says Curran, “They’re perfect for cutting down large boards such as full 8 x 4 (2,440 x 1,220mm) sheets, which you wouldn’t be able to manoeuvre over a table saw without using extensions.”

Winner: track saw

Which saw should you choose?

“Buying the right saw is one of the more considered decisions you’ll make when kitting out your workspace or jobsite, and a lot of the time it comes down to specific applications,” says Prime. “Think carefully about the material you’re going to be cutting, and the types of cut you need to make before purchasing. Table saws are generally more suited to repeat cuts whereas track saws tend to be used for more unique cuts.”

Both track saws and table saws have their benefits. If you can spare the money and space, and if you do a lot of DIY or craft (especially carpentry), then it might be worthwhile having both of these tools handy for your projects.

If you’re only going to buy one of these types of saws, here are our recommendations:

Buy a track saw if…

• You’d prefer the most user-friendly option
• You’re low on storage space
• You want a tool that’s similar to a regular circular saw, but with better accuracy

Buy a table saw if…

• You want the best possible tool to use as the focal point of a workshop
• You want to cut lots of pieces quickly for major DIY or craft projects
• You’re aiming for an excellent finish with little need for sanding after cutting

FAQs

How to choose the right blade for a track saw or table saw?

Most track saws come with a standard circular saw blade, designed for cutting various wood products including softwoods, hardwoods, plywood and MDF, as well as certain other materials including plasterboard. If these are the types of materials you’ll be cutting, the standard blade should do the job – but for other materials, you may require a different type.

“We recommend using one of our Evolution multi‑material TCT blades, which cut materials including metals, composites and laminates, and wood with embedded nails, so you can move confidently between different tasks without constantly swapping blades,” says Curran.

For high-quality carpentry, you might also use a fine-tooth blade. “This type has a thinner curve and more teeth, so it causes less splinters,” Curran notes. “You’d use them to make furniture such as cabinets.”

Are track saws and table saws better than circular saws?

Track saws and table saws are somewhat similar to circular saws. They also use a circular blade, and they’re used for many of the same cutting tasks, especially in woodworking projects.

Typically, the advantage to a track saw or table saw is greater accuracy and a finer finish, compared to the results of cutting with a circular saw without a track. They are preferred by professionals, but they tend to come at a higher price and take up more storage space.

There are all sorts of cutting tools out there. If you're still in doubt over which type to use in your DIY projects, our jigsaw vs circular saw and best reciprocating saws guides could help get you on the right track.

Sharpening a drill bit is rarely a second thought for most DIYers. It's straight out of the case, into a chuck and start drilling. But drill bits are not indestructible and are prone to wear and tear like every other tool. Eventually, the crisp and clean drill holes you once admired are no longer up to scratch.

You’ll have to work harder, regardless of the type of drill bit you have. So it makes sense to give your drill bit a quick sharpen when needed to bring it back to life. Plus, it will save you the cost of replacing your bits regularly. Here you’ll find out what tools you’ll need and how to do it yourself.

Why you need to sharpen a drill bit

A new drill bit works better than a used one, so sharpening it will bring it back to its best. Leigh Start, MD of Metal Store, says, “A sharp drill bit cuts cleanly and efficiently, while a dull one forces you to apply more pressure, generates excess heat and is far more likely to wander off your mark.”

Paul McFadyen, MD of Metals4U, suggests regular sharpening is key: “Sharpening a drill bit is an essential part of drill maintenance, and improves both safety and performance of the tool.” He adds, “A blunt drill bit is less effective at drilling into material, particularly when drilling into metal and masonry, taking longer to drill to the required depth.”

Leigh Start explains what can happen with a blunt drill bit. “When drilling into metal specifically, a blunt bit can also work-harden the surface, making it even harder to cut through. Regular sharpening helps protect both your drill bits and the workpiece.”

He adds, “A dull bit also increases the risk of grabbing or snapping, particularly with smaller diameters, which can damage both the drill and the material being drilled.”

Shop these tools to sharpen a drill bit

Tools needed to sharpen a drill bit

There are a couple of options when sharpening a drill bit, explains McFadyen, “You can choose to sharpen a drill bit by hand or using an angle grinder or bench grinder.”

Sharpening by hand

Manually sharpening a drill bit only needs a few tools, as McFadyen shares, “When sharpening by hand, you will need a diamond hand file for most drill bits, particularly those made for masonry or metal drilling, which are typically made from harder materials.

He adds, “A fine file is also useful for softer drill bits or for minor finishing improvements.”

Using sharpening tools

“If you’re confident and have the tools, a bench or angle grinder can be used,” shares McFadyen. Start adds, “A bench grinder with a fine-grit wheel is the most common workshop tool for sharpening HSS twist bits.”

Start offers an alternative for DIYers: “For more consistent results - and a more accessible option for most DIYers - a drill-mounted sharpening jig or dedicated drill bit sharpener can help maintain the correct angles and keep both cutting edges symmetrical.”

PPE protection

Whether you're sharpening a drill by hand or using machinery, you need to wear protective gear, McFadyen says. “Eye protection is especially key, whilst gloves can also be worn when sharpening using power tools. A well-ventilated area and a dust mask are also recommended to avoid inhalation of dust.”

Sharpening a drill bit

There are two common methods for sharpening a drill: by hand or with a power tool. McFadyen points out, “There are key differences between the processes, but many of the techniques remain the same for both.”

Start adds, “Wood bits are usually easier to sharpen with a file or small stone, while masonry bits with carbide tips generally require a diamond wheel and are often replaced rather than sharpened in a home workshop.”

Get the right angle

McFadyen shares how to start the sharpening process: “Start by cleaning the drill bit and inspecting it to see exactly where it needs to be sharpened.” He adds, “When sharpening, take your time and frequently check the bit to ensure you are sharpening it at the correct angle.”

Ensuring you have the right angle is important. Start says, “For standard HSS twist bits used on metal, sharpening is typically done on a bench grinder by restoring the original 118° point angle while ensuring both cutting lips remain the same length.”

Start explains how, “The bit is lightly touched against the wheel and rotated to recreate the relief behind the cutting edge.” To help get the right angle, try an inexpensive tool like this Drill Bit Grinder Tool Manual from Amazon.

Alternatively, if you regularly need to sharpen drill bits, invest in a suitable machine, such as this Drill Doctor DD500X Twist Drill Bit Sharpener from Amazon.

Tips and techniques

If sharpening by hand, McFadyen says, “For the cutting edges, follow the curve of them with your file, moving it away from the edge in short controlled motions.” He continues, “Start with one edge, and then move onto the other once you are satisfied.”

Finally, “For the chisel, simply ensure that the tip is honed and clean. Do not aggressively sharpen the point, as this can shorten the life of the bit.”

If using a powered sharpener like a bench grinder, McFadyen shares the process: “The same principles apply for using powered grinders. Take things slowly and maintain a firm grip on the drill bit. Ensure the angle is correct and frequently check the bit every few seconds.”

He adds, “Importantly, when using a powered tool, you will need to control the heat generated from the grinding process. Keep a cup of water on hand and dip the bit into it every time you inspect it.”

Once sharpened, make sure to check your handiwork, shares McFadyen, “Before using the drill, visually inspect it to ensure that the edges are sharp and of equal length.” He adds, “Following this, gently test it in some soft scrap material and keep an eye out for signs that it is not drilling correctly, such as squealing, wandering or refusal to bite.”

FAQs

How often should I sharpen a drill bit?

Start says, “There's no fixed rule, but it's good practice to inspect your bits before use and after any tough job.” He continues, “Common signs that a bit needs sharpening include squealing during use, needing to apply excessive pressure, heat discolouration and ragged or imprecise holes.”

McFadyen shares, “Much will depend on how often you use your drill, what you use it for, and the quality of the drill bit itself.” He adds, “Drilling into wood, for example, will require less frequent sharpening than drilling into stainless steel or masonry.”

How much does a professional charge to sharpen a drill bit?

If you are not confident in sharpening a drill bit, you can take it to a professional. This is inexpensive for single drill bits, as McFadyen shares, “This can vary, but typically the price per drill bit will be under £5.”

And it can be a quick job as well, continues McFadyen, “Depending on availability and demand, professional sharpening can be done fairly quickly, and you will most likely be able to pick up your sharpened tools on the same day.” Search for local services to see what's available nearby.

How many times can a drill bit realistically be sharpened?

This can vary by type and use, but as a general rule, McFadyen says, “Drill bits can be sharpened frequently, but after a while it is advisable to replace rather than repair them.”

He adds, “The main restriction is the condition of the chisel head. If this becomes broken or damaged, or is filed too thin, the bit will need to be replaced.” Start explains what happens each time a bit is sharpened: “Each sharpening removes a small amount of material, so the limiting factor is typically the overall length rather than the condition of the steel itself.”

He adds that the quality also affects sharpening: “Cheaper bits often don’t respond as well to resharpening, which is another reason why investing in higher-quality drill bits can pay off over time.”

Try these drill bit sets to replace your old ones: DEWALT Titanium Nitride Coated, 21-Piece Titanium Pilot Point Drill Bit Set, fischer 561649 D-U Hex Universal Drill Bit Set and this DEWALT Masonry Drill Bit Set (all available from Amazon).

Drill bits come in many guises and can handle many DIY tasks, including drilling into walls and drilling into metal. If you are tackling any of these tasks or taking on a house renovation project, make sure your drill bits are sharp and fit for purpose.

I've seen a rise in the trend of robot vacuums, and I wanted to test the next generation and give a robot mop and vacuum a go to see if they're worth the hype.

I got the newly released eufy Omni C28 to test the latest model of robot mops and I tested it out to see how it performed on every type of flooring in my house.

I reveal the results below and give my opinion on whether it's worth the cost and clarify some misconceptions that I and maybe you have had about them.

How the robot mop was tested

I decided to try the eufy Omni C28 on every type of flooring in my house to see how it performs on each one.

This focused on wooden flooring in my lounge, limestone tiles in my kitchen, the carpet in the living room and the terracotta tiles in the drawing room.

With each of these, I wanted to test the Omni C28 on its most powerful function on the 'Deep' cleaning function, the 'High' water level and the 'Max' suction power. I also used the same washing-up liquid.

I also tried some other tests to really put it through its paces, and I can reveal the results for each flooring type.

Alongside the cleaning performance, I was also interested in how the robot handled navigation and maintenance. The C28 uses iPath 2.0 navigation, which maps the room layout and helps it avoid obstacles, even in darker areas or under furniture.

Testing the robot on wooden floors

The lounge uses basic wooden flooring, which was a good starting ground to test the eufy Omni C28.

With the mapping feature, it was able to assess the room size, surface type and where it could, and couldn't clean.

With the vacuum at the front and the mop behind it, the robot first pulled up dust and debris before mopping. The roller mop system – which applies around 1kg of downward pressure while cleaning – continuously washes itself as it goes, meaning it’s not just pushing dirty water around the floor.

This was a surprise as, despite its size, it performed well compared to my larger Dyson vacuum to give a very good finish. Dare I say, I couldn't have done it better myself.

Testing the robot on limestone tiles

I wanted to give a significantly tougher test, so I took it to the kitchen next. This Italian tumbled limestone flooring proved much tougher to clean for the eufy Omni C28.

Due to the bumpy surface, some stains were tougher to clean than others and this room definitely needed a couple of goes to achieve a full clean. However, I did deliberately leave some trickier stains.

On the first run the vinegar was spread slightly and the beetroot stain only partially lifted. However, the self-cleaning roller mop kept washing itself during the process, which meant the second cleaning pass was far more effective. After another run, both stains were removed.

This is where the automation really helped. Since the robot can return to its docking station to wash the mop, refill water and empty dust automatically, it’s designed to clean areas multiple times without you needing to intervene.

Testing the C28 on terracotta tiles

sq ftIt should be pointed out that after cleaning both the lounge and kitchen, the eufy Omni C28 did need to clean itself and reload its water. This was after 300 sqft of cleaning.

The next room was the largest of the lot, with the drawing room and an adjacent connecting room giving the C28 a workout. These open-plan style rooms are really where robot vacuums/mops come in handy.

The result in this room was the best yet with the flat surface glimmering by the end, and even though I set the function to the highest water level, it was a real bonus that the floor was not too wet, meaning it dried almost instantly, a problem I often get when mopping.

If I was being really picky some water marks were left behind but that is me being very harsh.

Testing the robot on carpet

,Finally, I moved the robot onto the living room carpet, which is a thick, deep-pile carpet and therefore a good test.

This is where the 15,000 Pa suction power came into its own. The robot automatically recognised the change in flooring and lifted out of mopping mode so the mop wasn’t used on the carpet.

It also navigated easily underneath sofas, footstools and chairs – areas that often get missed in regular cleaning.

Another useful feature here is the DuoSpiral detangling brushes, which are designed to prevent hair and fur from wrapping around the rollers. For households with pets or long hair, this could save a fair bit of maintenance.

Despite working through several rooms, the robot was also very quiet. At times I barely noticed it running.

By the end, the entire ground floor of my house had been cleaned in around 45 minutes, and the robot only needed to recharge and service itself once.

FAQs

Does the eufy Omni C28 need much maintenance?

One of the main selling points of the Omni C28 is that most of the maintenance is handled automatically by the docking station. The all-in-one base station empties the dustbin, washes the mop roller, refills the clean water tank and collects dirty water.

However, you will still need to occasionally empty the wastewater tank, buy new dustbins, refill the clean water tank and clean the filters and brushes every so often to keep the robot running efficiently.

How loud is the eufy Omni C28 when cleaning?

The Omni C28 is relatively quiet compared with traditional upright vacuums. The maximum level it can reach is 67 dBs.

Does the robot work in low-light conditions?

The Omni C28 uses its iPath 2.0 navigation system, which allows it to detect obstacles and map rooms even in low light or under furniture. This means it can clean effectively at night or in darker rooms without needing the lights on.

Can you control the robot remotely?

Yes. The robot connects to the eufy Clean app, which allows you to start or stop cleaning cycles, adjust suction or water levels and set cleaning schedules remotely.

You can also use the app to see the robot’s room mapping and direct it to specific areas if you only want one room cleaned.

Will the eufy Omni C28 fall down the stairs?

I did also test the eufy Omni C28 upstairs and I did worry that it could fall down the stairs. However, it will scan if it is near an edge and stop itself everytime to prevent it falling an damaging itself.

Can the eufy Omni C28 go up slopes?

It can go up slopes as high as 45 degrees, however it cannot go up edges that are larger than an inch.

Is the eufy Omni C28 worth it?

If you’re looking for a robot vacuum that can both vacuum and mop with minimal maintenance, the eufy Omni C28 Robot Vacuum and Mop is one of the more compelling mid-range options currently available.

It also performs strongly for a robot in this price bracket. With 15,000Pa suction, it has enough power to lift dust, pet hair and debris from both hard floors and carpets. The HydroJet roller mop continuously cleans itself while scrubbing floors, helping prevent the streaking that some robot mops struggle with.

Originally launched at around £649, it is currently available for about £499 during Amazon’s Spring Deal promotions, making it considerably more affordable than many robot vacuums with similar automation features.

If like us, it feels to you like the green shoots of spring are finally starting to flourish, we suggest you get your running shoes at the ready – but not for the reasons you might think.

While you may well be limbering up for some exercise, it's also time to get ready to race to your nearest Lidl store. The brand has launched a 12 week long gardening event, with middle aisle deals arriving in store every Thursday.

The first week kicks off with everything you'll need to start tidying up your garden after winter. I round up the weekly homes and gardens deals for our newsletter, and predict these 5 items will sell out fast. So, if a new garden landscaping idea is on your agenda, make sure you don't miss out on these middle aisle bargains.

1. Banish dirt and debris with this Parkside Pressure Washer

With a full range of handy gardening products on offer at Lidl from Thursday 5 March, from tools to scarify your lawn, through to decking oil and brushes to apply it, you'll be hard-pushed not to find something you need for gardening this spring.

Justifying adding a pressure washer to your garden shed kit is pretty easy. With a range of uses from cleaning patios to washing cars, once you've tried one you'll understand their appeal.

It's why it's likely this Parkside Pressure Washer from Lidl won't be in stores for long. At just £99.99, it comes with everything you need to get started on your patio makeover, and is £65 cheaper than this Draper Pressure Washer equivalent at Toolstation.

But, before you forge ahead with your cleaning, make sure you follow what our gardening experts recommend for cleaning decking with a pressure washer. Or, if you're planning on using your pressure washer to clean your outside windows, it could be worth picking up this Parkside Facade and Glass Cleaner Attachment while it's in store.

Although on a personal note, if I had a self build with lots of architectural glazing, I'd be snapping up a model like this Robot Window Cleaner from Amazon to do the dirty work for me.

2. Get your lawn looking as fresh as a daisy

March is the perfect time to start prepping your lawn for spring, and one of the best times to scarify your lawn – autumn being the other key season when it's recommended.

The Parkside Scarifier/Aerator from Lidl will be on offer for £89.99, and even cheaper at £79.99 if you have the Lidl app. With easily interchangeable rollers, it's cheaper, and more powerful than this VonHaus Lawn Scarifier/Aerator/Rake Electric from Amazon.

It's classed as suitable for lawns up to 600m2, and while autumn is considered the prime time when looking at when to aerate a lawn, if you missed the September window spring is considered the next best time.

3. Keep your trees and hedges at bay

Next up our shopping list is the Parkside Extendable Tree Pruner with Saw. Overgrown trees and hedges are one of the areas that can turn into potential neighbour disputes. While there isn't a legal height for hedges between neighbours. there are guidelines in place for unruly and untrimmed boundaries. Avoiding them is therefore key, which is why pruning tools with extra length that avoid the need for ladders can be handy.

This VonHaus Telescopic Tree Pruner & Lopper only extends slightly further and is currently £27.99 on Amazon compared to Lidl's £14.99 offer.

4. Keep your health and borders in check with this weed puller

If the thought of gardening makes your knees creak, then this next middle aisle deal seems like a no-brainer for your body – and your budget. The Parkside Weed Puller will be available for just £5.99.

While it's perfect for lawns or flowerbeds, if you're looking for a tool to remove weeds from patios, you could try this Vonhaus Weed Remover from Amazon instead, as it's suitable for use on hard surfaces including patios, wood and driveways.

5. Go easy on your knees with this padded kneeling mat

And last, but certainly not least and one item you'll be glad of throughout the seasons is the Parkside Kneeling Pad. Available in black or green, and with an integrated carrying handle, it will help protect your knees when tidying up your garden planters, or lawn edging ideas.

At an extremely affordable £3.99, this Livivo Extra Thick Kneeling Pad on Amazon has similar dimensions, but is priced at £9.99.

Ready to shop? Make sure you also check out the latest garden trends for 2026 before you start working on your garden or patio, and if you also have a new decking area in your sights, make sure you avoid these common decking mistakes.

If you’re doing your own tiling project, don’t forget to use tile spacers. These inexpensive tools slot in between tiles during the laying process, ensuring your grout joints are even and that you get a neat finish.

Tiny, plastic tile spacers can cost £5 or less for a pack of 1,000, but you shouldn’t just purchase the first product you spot. Differences in size and type will affect a spacer’s suitability for a particular tiling task.

We asked tiling experts how to choose the right tile spacers for your project – and how to use them effectively when tiling a wall.

What are tile spacers for?

Whether you're tiling a kitchen wall or tiling a bathroom floor, tile spacers are a small tiling tool, used in large quantities during the tile laying process to ensure the grout gap between tiles is consistently at the desired width.

Whichever of the many tile laying patterns you choose, from straight lay to herringbone, suitable tile spacers can be used to create a uniform, professional-looking effect.

“I couldn’t live without tile spacers,” says Kevin Bailey, owner and director of Tiler Required?, a Buckinghamshire-based tiling company. “They do a good job of holding tiles level and straight, with a consistent grout gap.”

During laying, spacers also perform the essential role of limiting movement in the tiles, as your tile adhesive sets them in place. “Wherever you’re butting tiles up together, spacers ensure they won’t decouple from the substrate if the wall expands or contracts,” says Kevin.

Achieving the correct grout joints in a tiled area is not just an aesthetic goal. In some cases, BSI guidance stipulates that grout joints between tiles must fall within a specific range of widths.

“The grout joints exist for a purpose,” says Nathan Rees, Commercial Sales Representative of RUBI UK, a manufacturer of tiler spacers and other tiling products. “They are there to allow some flexibility or movement in the wall or floor, and the spacer size determines the width of the joint.”

Spacers can be placed into the corners where tiles meet in a pattern, or sticking out between the faces of two tiles, depending on your preferred method.

Common sizes and types of tile spacers

There are three main types of tile spacers: cross spacers, T-shaped spacers and wedge spacers.

• Cross spacers: "These are the standard type," says Nathan Rees. "They’re available in sizes from 1 to 10mm in increments of one millimetre and they’re used for your standard tiling set out with tiles in a grid."
• T-spacers: "These have three legs and also come in various sizes," explains Nathan. "They are used for certain laying patterns, especially a brick bond effect where the corners of the tiles form a ‘T’ shape rather than a cross."
• Spacer wedge: "These can be looked upon as an adjustable-size spacer, with the joint width depending on how far you push a wedge in," adds Nathan. "They help with laying irregularly shaped tiles, and they come in 5mm or 7.5mm sizes, both of which taper to zero. You’d use them for slight adjustments rather than standard jobs."

Another important point of difference is the length of a spacer’s legs. “You can get ones with short legs or ones with long legs,” Kevin Bailey notes. “I use long because they go a bit further along the joint, which helps to make sure it’s straight and consistent.”

Most tile spacers are made by a handful of brands. “I usually use RUBI spacers, which are easy to find at shops like Topps Tiles, although I occasionally use Vitrex spacers (available from Screwfix) instead, if their spacers are more convenient to get hold of,” says Kevin.

“There isn’t much difference between makes, but you do get used to using what you use – some spacers feel a bit more brittle and snap more easily than others," he adds.

Shop tile spacers for your tiling project

How to choose the right tile spacers

They key point to remember is that choosing the right tile spacers for a tiling project comes down to how wide your grout joints will be.

“The correct grout joint width (and therefore spacer size) will often depend on the size of the tile,” says Nathan Rees. “Large tiles tend to require larger grout joints, but also if you’ve got tiles that aren’t perfectly calibrated – so their sizing is slightly off – then using different sizes of spacers can allow the tiler to make up for imperfections in the size of certain tiles.”

Grout gaps of around 3mm for wall tiles and around 6mm for floor tiles are common, but there are exceptions. For instance, relatively small, rectangular metro tiles tend to look best with the narrowest compatible grout gap, while large-format tiles often require an especially wide gap to account for stresses caused by movement in the underlying floor or wall.

Some tile laying patterns dictate that T-shaped tile spacers with three ‘legs’ will be easier to use than a conventional cross-shaped spacer.

“If you’ve got brick-style subway tiles set out in a running bond laying pattern, the T-shaped spacers are fairly handy,” says Kevin Bailey. “We certainly go through a few of them on metro wall installations, and anything else that’s on a brick bond.”

Fitting tile trim is another way to ensure your tiling project has a professional looking finish.

How to use tile spacers

Using tile spacers is pretty straightforward: you place them into the gaps where the edges of tiles come close to others, allowing the legs of the spacer to determine the gap between the tiles. You can do this throughout the laying process, adding spacers with every new tile you lay.

However, one tiling mistake DIYers sometimes make is removing spacers at the wrong time, while the tiles are setting in place with your chosen tile adhesive. Remove them too early, and the tiles may shift or fall.

How long your tile adhesive takes to dry depends on the product you are using. “The right time to remove them depends on your adhesive,” says Kevin Bailey. “We tend to use either a rapid set or a standard set tile adhesive. Rapid set is usually set after three hours, but it is secure enough for spacers to be removed within about 30 minutes. With standard set adhesive, leave the spacers in place for 24 hours.”

In some cases, you might not need to remove the spacers at all. “If you push the spacer down far enough then you can grout straight over the spacer, provided it is 2-3mm below the face of the tile,” Kevin notes.

It's important you work out the amount of tile adhesive you need too.

FAQs

Are tile levelling kits better than tile spacers?

Tile levelling kits are a more advanced tile laying solution, often used by professional tilers and sometimes favoured by DIYers who have plenty of tiling to do.

“We use levelling kits and systems with larger format tiles,” says Kevin Bailey, owner and director of Tiler Required?. “They’re made up of a baseplate that goes under the tiles, and a clip and wedge system that holds the tiles in place from above and ensures the gaps are the right width.”

“For anything with tiles over 300 x 600mm, we would tend to use this system,” he adds.

What did tilers use before tile spacers?

Tilers have long aspired to achieve uniform grout joints, but tile spacers are a fairly recent invention, patented by Bob Joos in 1989. Before then, tilers had to make do with less specialised items.

“Around 25 years ago, when I first started in the industry a lot of the older tradesmen used matchsticks or dowels, and they asked me why I used spacers,” says Kevin Bailey. “But for me, it’s always been a plastic spacer.”

The same cross-shaped and T-shaped spacers have dominated the market for decades, but manufacturers have designed newer types more recently, securing some uptake among tilers.

“Some people use horseshoe spacers now which are a larger, U-shaped spacer,” says Kevin. “I haven’t moved on to these yet, as I feel that the old cross or T-spacers do a job that’s not broken and doesn’t need fixing.”

Small tools and materials such as tile spacers are sometimes overlooked, but they can make a vast difference to DIY projects at minimal expense.

Our guides on masking tape vs painter’s tape and how to avoid drilling into wires by using a wire detector will help you to top up your home renovation know-how.

Knowing how to cut a clean, precise hole in wood is a skill every DIYer should have in their toolkit. Whether you’re constructing a stud wall, fitting shelves, or threading cables through cabinets, many DIY projects require creating holes of the correct size.

To ensure success, you’ll need to invest in the right tools and employ the appropriate techniques. The best cordless drills and the correct drill bit will go a long way in ensuring a precise clean hole.

Here, we take a close look at the tools – and how to use them – to cut small, large, and irregular holes for a successful project.

Cutting small holes in wood

Small holes in wood are often used for dowels to join sheets of wood, pilot holes for screws, or to pass small cables through. A quick, simple way to make small holes is to use a wood drill bit. A standard wood drill typically comes in sizes up to 10mm. To drill a small hole in wood, simply select a suitable-sized drill bit. Common sizes for wooden dowels used in furniture and shelving are 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm. Mark the drilling spot, place the bit tip on the mark, ensure it is at 90 degrees, and start slowly before increasing speed.

Scott Godfrey, Construction trade consultant for Black Hammer, shares an alternative option, “For clean, accurate small holes in visible work, use a sharp brad‑point bit (like this Bosch Professional Brad point from B&Q). Its centre spur stops wandering, and the spurs score the fibres to leave a crisp rim.” He continues, “Mark the centre, clamp the work, and support the exit with a sacrificial backer to prevent tear‑out. Start square, use steady pressure, and ease off as the point is about to break through.”

However, successful hole cutting relies not only on the tool but also on the right technique, explains Godfrey. “Adjust speed and feed to the material.” He adds, “Softwoods tolerate higher speeds, while dense hardwoods and laminates prefer a slower speed and lighter feed to avoid burning or chipping.”

He adds, “On veneered or melamine panels, tape the face, score the layout with a knife, and always drill from the show face into a backer. For multiple holes, use a depth stop for blind holes and a simple jig or guide to maintain consistent spacing."

Try these tools to cut holes in wood

4 Tools to cut large holes

There are several options for cutting larger holes in wood. These are the ideal choice if you are looking to cut holes larger than a standard wooden drill bit can. Here, we look at the different tools you can use and reveal what they are typically used for and what sizes they usually cut.

1. Auger bits

These look similar to a standard drill bit, but their design has a few subtle differences, as Godfrey explains: “Auger bits have a screw point and a deep spiral that pulls the bit through, clearing chips efficiently.” He adds, “They are typically used for deep, straight holes in studs, joists, and beams where you need reach and good chip ejection, such as services and fixings.” These are typically available in sizes up to 32mm, like this Meccion Wood Drill Bit.

Godfrey explains what they are best for, “They are about depth and efficiency rather than producing the widest or neatest diameters on a show face.” He adds, “Use a slower speed in dense hardwoods and reduce feed as the screw point approaches the exit to limit breakout. Support the far side with a backer if you can, or stop short and finish from the other face for a cleaner edge.”

2. Spade drill bits

“Spade bits are flat paddle cutters with a centre point, designed to remove material quickly”, explains Godfrey. “They are typically used for fast through holes in framing and other hidden locations, where a crisp rim is not required.” Spade bits like this DEWALT Extreme Flat Wood Drill Bit 9 Piece Set from Amazon range in size from 12mm to 32mm.

He continues, “They can cover larger diameters than common small‑hole work, but they tend to tear fibres, especially in plywoods and laminates.” To get a cleaner result, Godfrey says, “Clamp a backer, tape the face, and slow down for the last few millimetres. For visible work, step over to a Forstner or hole saw to get a clean rim and reduce sanding.”

3. Hole saws

“Hole saws are cylindrical saw cups mounted on an arbour with a pilot bit, used for clean circular cut‑outs in sheet goods and thin timber,” shares Hargreaves. “They’re the go‑to for locks, pipe penetrations and downlights, and they cover a broad span of diameters with changeable cups.”

Hargreaves explains the best way to use a hole saw. “Slow the drill as the diameter increases, keep the saw square, and clear dust regularly to avoid burning.” He adds, “Tape the face, clamp a backer, and stop as soon as the pilot breaks through so you can finish from the other side for a neat edge.”

4. Forstener bits

Forstener bits (like this 30mm Forstner Bit Wood Drill Boring Hinge Hole Cutter from B&Q) are slightly different to other bits, explains Hargreaves, “Forstner bits cut very clean, flat‑bottomed holes guided by a rim rather than a long point, so they excel in cabinetry and furniture where the edge needs to be crisp.”

They are typically used to create recesses for hinges and dowel holes. Hargreaves continues, “They let you overlap holes, bore partial depth, and work close to edges with control.”

To use a Forstener bit, Hargreaves says, “Use lower speed and firm support, ideally with a drill guide or drill press for accuracy and repeatability. Back the work, peck to clear chips, and lightly chamfer the edge if the hole will be touched or finished.”

Shop tools for cutting a hole in wood

How to cut round and irregular shape holes

There are a few options for cutting large and irregularly shaped holes. Godfrey explains a popular option for large round holes, “A router with a circle jig (like this Milescraft 1219 Circle Guide Kit from Amazon) or a template gives very clean, repeatable holes and arcs, provided you use a sharp cutter and take shallow passes rather than trying to remove all the material at once.”

To help ensure a clean hole he adds, “Clamp the work firmly, guide the router smoothly, and use dust extraction because routers generate fine chips.”

Irving shares his thoughts, “A router can also be used to cut non-round holes in wood, using different wood cutting jigs.”

For irregularly shaped holes, like countertop holes for sinks, Irving says, “A jigsaw can be used for cutting both large round holes or irregular shapes in wood.” He adds, “These saws have fine-toothed blades that are good for cutting around outlines of shapes. A jigsaw takes more concentration and control than a hole saw, as you will have to move slowly to ensure your cut is precise.” Try this Makita DJV180ZX LXT Cordless Top Handle Jigsaw from Amazon to cut holes and shapes.

FAQs

What is the largest commonly used wood drill bit size?

Hargreaves says, “Ten millimetres is a common everyday size for fixings and hardware.” He adds, “But 'small' in practice runs up to the top end of what you’d comfortably do with standard bits before switching to spade, Forstner, or a hole saw.”

Hargreaves adds more definition to the term small, “I treat anything needed for screws, plugs and light fittings as small, and step up to the next tool family when the hole needs more control or cleanliness.” He adds, “If the face is on show, I’ll choose the bit style that gives the neatest rim and drill from both sides using a pilot to keep the hole centred.”

Should I drill into wet wood?

Yes, you can, but it's not advised for a number of reasons, as Irving notes, “It’s typically advised against as the wet wood fibres can clog together, increasing friction and making the drill bit feel like it’s sticking.”

He adds, “Heat and friction when drilling can lead to worn and blunt drill bits. Furthermore, when the wood dries, it can shrink or warp, which leads to misaligned holes and problems with structural integrity”.

Should you lubricate drill bits before drilling?

Lubricants are not commonly used when drilling into wood. Irving explains why, “Lubricants, like cutting oil, can stain wood and cause problems when painting or staining wood after drilling.” He adds, “Furthermore, the oil can even cause the wood chips to clog in the grooves of the drill bit and ruin its effectiveness.”

If you are struggling to drill wood, Irving suggests a suitable alternative: “Use a small amount of wax, like beeswax, on your drill bit to prevent it from sticking when drilling. Wax can act as a dry lubricant to prevent staining or clogs, whilst reducing friction”

If you are fitting a kitchen worktop or fitting a kitchen sink, there’s a good chance you will need to trim or cut a hole in a worktop. If you’re thinking of fitting a new bathroom sink in a vanity unit, check out our bathroom sink ideas for insight and inspiration.

When Arnold Schwarzenegger first started demonstrating Lidl's power tools a while back, you couldn't help but notice. And Lidl’s reputation for offering quality at low prices made this partnership a hard-to-ignore combination.

The Terminator actor certainly packed a punch armed with his Lidl chainsaw, cutting muscles into a wooden sculpture of himself in their advert, all while exclaiming "power in the palms of your hands" is needed to make a success of something.

But clever advertising aside, as a seasoned DIYer I wanted to see if Lidl's power tools really were a bargain compared to the offerings from its bargain basement competitor: Amazon. I’ve used own-brand tools before and have rarely been disappointed, but who will win in our head-to-head? Surely Arnie – who used to be a bricklayer (yes, really) – can't lose, right?

Lidl's drill versus similar on Amazon

Every DIY enthusiast needs a drill. It’s usually the first power tool that any aspiring DIYer acquires. The Parkside Performance Cordless Drill Driver Starter Set is the ideal starter kit for any DIY novice. It has everything – with a regular price of just £39.99 – including two rechargeable batteries with a charger, 20 torque settings, an integrated LED light, a keyless chuck, 25 screwdriver bits, and a variety of wood and masonry drill bits.

And like all good modern power tools, it’s compatible with any other cordless Parkside power tool that uses the X 12V TEAM series rechargeable batteries. For peace of mind, it comes with a 5-year warranty. I’d say that’s impossible to ignore at such a low price point.

Can you buy it on Amazon? No, but the highly rated Parkside PABS 20-Li X20V Cordless Drill is yours for £33, with no battery or charger. A more powerful Parkside option is the Parkside Cordless 20v Drill at £65. This includes a better battery and a charger, but nothing else. An alternative at a similar price point is the well-received Einhell Power X-Change Drill, available for £45 including battery and charger.

Winner: Lidl, those batteries being includes is a brilliant saving

Lidl's sander versus what you can find on Amazon

Another frequent visitor to a DIYer's toolbox is a sander. If you paint, and let's be honest, what DIYer doesn’t, a sander is the perfect tool if you're painting skirting boards, doors, windows or architrave. The Parkside Multi Sander from Lidl comes in at a very respectable £23. Features a hook-and-loop fastener, an integrated dust-collection box, a soft-grip ergonomic handle, and a 3-year warranty.

This isn’t available on Amazon, but there are some very smart alternatives like this BLACK+DECKER Mouse 55W Detail Sander for just £22. It fits neatly in the hand, is lightweight, and its teardrop-shaped sanding pad allows it to get into all corners.

Winner: It's a tie

Lidl tile cutter versus Amazon

If you’re a keen DIY tiler, Lidl's Parkside Wet Tile Cutter is almost a must-have at £45. It includes one diamond-cutting disc, a tool for changing the saw blade, and a three-year warranty. For a little extra, you can get the Vitrex torque master power tile cutter from Amazon. It's highly rated, cuts tiles up to 25mm thick and includes a 110mm diamond blade

Winner: Lidl

Lidl's wet and dry vac versus similar on Amazon

When you're done, don’t forget to clean up. A wet and dry vac speeds up the process, and once again, Lidl have a very competitively priced model – Parkside Wet & Dry Vacuum Cleaner – at £40. You’ll struggle to do any better at this price point, but the Draper 1250W 15L Wet and Dry Vacuum Cleaner from Amazon comes close, or even better when on offer at £35.

Winner: Amazon

Power tools to buy on Amazon

Lidl's power tool accessories versus Amazon

Every power tool needs accessories, and Parkside haven’t forgotten this. You can get your hands on the Parkside Performance Hexagonal Wood Drill Bit Set and Parkside Performance Hexagonal Masonry Drill Bit Set, both for £4.99. These are hard-to-beat prices, but the Bosch 15-Piece Drill Bit Set on Amazon features both wood and masonry bits for just over £6.

When you need help with a DIY project, a small stepladder like the Parkside Folding Stepladder at £17.99 is perfect for a quick lift to reach the top of walls for painting and wallpapering. If you’re looking for something a little more robust, try the StepIt Premium 2 Step Ladder from Amazon.

If you need an extra pair of hands, but no one’s available to help, I find bar clamps are the perfect assistant. The Parkside Large Bar Clamps have a jaw width of 300mm and come as a 2-pack for just £6.99. Can you get them cheaper on Amazon? No, but these IRWIN QUICK-GRIP 150mm Mini Clamps are the perfect companion for smaller jobs, and they're less than a tenner.

Winner: Lidl

Lidl or Amazon?

Like Arnie famously said, “I’ll be back”, the next time I need a well-priced power tool. But will it be Amazon or Lidl? The boring answer is that it is most likely both depending on which tool I need, but if Arnie is really pinning me down on an either or answer, it's obviously going to have to be Lidl.

Power tools are the lifeblood of any good DIY project, so you need to make sure you have the right selection. Check out our best cordless drills, essential tools I buy on Amazon and jigsaw vs circular saw guides to make sure you are ready for your next DIY project.

In this Henry HVR160 review I share my experience of using it for more than five years, to tidy up after DIY successes (and disasters) and general use around the home.

It's a canister vacuum cleaner, which means that the main unit and cleaning head are connected by a long hose. This makes it perfect for getting into difficult spaces, and useful for getting replacement parts since they are all easily accessible. With powerful suction, dust-free emptying and a robust design, is there anything it can't do?

Over the years I have tested a lot of vacuum cleaners, and I haven't held back in stretching their capabilities – especially with this one. As a mum-of-two and someone who likes stripping wallpaper, knocking through walls and sanding skirting, let me tell you how it made the cut onto our list of the best vacuum cleaners for builders' dust. You can then weigh up if it's the one for you.

Unboxing and setting up the Henry HVR160

The Henry HVR160 arrives by courier, and it takes no second guesses as to what is inside the box. Clearly branded and labelled, the cardboard box is purpose made for shipping this Henry. The only plastic used was a bag that contained a Tapered Adapter, Crevice Tool, Dusting Tool and Brush and Mattress Tool, which will come in handy when cleaning the home – rather than clearing up after a DIY success or disaster.

There's a set of owner instructions that explains how everything fits together, but if you've seen a Henry before then familiarity trumps.

A bag is already in place to collect the dust from your DIY project or house renovation, so the only set-up required is to connect the three-piece tube set, attach it to the hose and then screw said hose onto the main unit. With no battery to charge and no fancy smart features, the Henry HVR160 is ready to use within minutes.

First impressions

When the Henry HVR160 is put together it looks like a useful piece of kit, with all the tools secured onto the on-board storage and the otherwise gangly floorhead secured by a clip at the back of the canister.

It's on a set of wheels so I can either push it by foot or pull it by a hand on the hose to move it around. There is also a retractable handle on the top that I used to carry it into different rooms or up the stairs, or hauled up a ladder to the attic.

I like that there is some discreet cable management underneath the handle, so that the 10m power cable can be wound away when I've finished a job. The generous 6L bag is also neatly contained in the canister so all the dust and debris will be out of sight and out of mind, that is until it's full and needs replacing.

Henry HVR160 specifications

• Power: 620w
• Capacity: 6L
• Cable length: 10m
• Hose length: 2.2m
• Cleaning range: 25.7m
• Weight: 7.5kg
• Dimensions: 320 x 340 x 345mm
• Additional tools: Crevice Tool, Dusting Tool, Brush & Mattress Tool

Using the Henry HVR160 for DIY

The Henry HVR160 has helped us out in two home renovations and continues to be a reliable companion through all our DIY successes, and failures. What we love about it is that no mess is too big or too small – it will literally suck up everything (provided it is not a liquid). Dust, stones, chipped bricks, plasterboard, insulation and wood shavings are just some examples of how much it has tidied up for us.

It's currently sat in our attic. We (my husband) are in the throes of insulating the loft and boarding out the space, to prevent heat loss from the bedrooms below and maximise the area for loft storage. A lot of dust comes with chipboard and rock wool insulation, as well as flyaways as the main bulk of the insulation is laid.

We've removed the floorhead and three-piece stainless tube set so we're more agile in the somewhat cramped space. This means that we're only using the hose with tapered adapter to suck up the mess, and the Henry takes it in its stride. The hose doesn't get blocked and the canister bag is filling up nicely.

The wheels on the canister make it easy to pull into a tight spot. I just need to remind my husband to unplug and rewind the 6m power cable so that the attic isn't anymore treacherous than it already is.

Switching to home use

As well as tidying after a DIY project, the Henry HVR160 can also be used to clean the carpet, floors, skirting, crevices and upholstery around the home.

The Combi Floor Tool attaches to the three-piece stainless steel tube set. On the top of this tool is a paddle which can be pressed down for hard floors, and up for carpets. I found that it did a great job of cleaning both floor types, but the fluff from our new wool carpets did quickly build on the underside of the tool so I need to stop and start a few times to keep clearing it. This floor tool transitioned well between rooms too.

For cleaning skirting boards you can either use the Crevice Tool or Brush, but I found it easier to remove the tube set from the hose and just run the Tapered Adapter along the top. I personally found these tools more useful when cleaning the car.

Through a house move and general lack of organisation, I have unfortunately misplaced the tools but it's good to see that a replacement kit comprising the tools, hose and stainless-steel tube set can be bought from Amazon for £44.99.

If you think that you'll be scaling back on the DIY ambitions and using the Henry HVR160 more around the home, it would be worth considering the noise levels. I recorded 82dB during testing which is equivalent to heavy traffic or loud singing.

Cleaning, maintenance and storage

The Henry HVR160 is one of the easiest vacuum cleaners I have had to maintain in all my years of owning a vacuum cleaner. You'll just need to check the nozzle and floorhead for blockages, and replace the canister bags when full. A pack of 10 Henry replacement bags are £12 [Amazon] so while you do have an ongoing cost, what I will say is that this Henry will stuff the bag full before it needs swapping out.

To store, the cable can be wound in and the tools can be stowed on the on-board storage. The floorhead with three-piece stainless-steel tube can also be clipped onto the back of the canister in an upright position, but I found that this clip is a weak spot and the height of the floorhead clipped on could make it difficult to fit into a space out of the way.

How does it rate online?

Looking at TrustPilot reviews, the Henry HVR160 (and his friends) has 1767 reviews and has been awarded 4.8 out of 5 stars. Reviewers speak highly about how easy it is to fit together, the powerful suction and the useful attachments. It's not easy to find any negative comments but I have managed to find one who says that they find it a bit cumbersome to move around and the suction adjuster on the handle is difficult to turn on.

Over on Argos, 98% of customers recommend the HVR160. It's received high praise for its powerful suction, ease of use and excellent value for money. Users appreciate its performance on both carpets and hard floors, along with its long cord and generous dust bag capacity. However, some users report that they struggle to move the floorhead around and that the hose gets blocked.

And on Currys, 4 out of 5 stars has been awarded out of 10,747 reviews. The performance, ease of use and value for money is all spoken highly off. Yet some users struggle with pet hair removal (there's a separate tool for this) and that it keeps falling apart.

How does it compare?

While the Henry HVR160 is fantastic for dry messes, you may need to call in Charles CVC370 for the big stuff. This is a wet/dry vacuum cleaner which is ready to clean up plumbing disasters or clean out the garage. It has a larger 1000W motor and a larger 9L capacity for dry stuff, and 15L capacity for wet stuff.

Another option is the Karcher WD4 Wet & Dry vacuum cleaner (available on Amazon) which has a 2.2m long hose as standard. This is longer than Charles' 1.8m hose. The extra length would be beneficial when clearing blockages, although an extra long 6m long hose can be bought for Charles for £16.99 on Amazon if you already own one.

The 10m power cable on the HVR160 may be too restricting for other fellow DIYers too. The Makita DVC750LZ (available on Amazon) is a lightweight, portable cordless vacuum cleaner. Like Charles, it can also clean wet and dry messes but on a smaller scale because it has half the capacity.

In terms of price, the Henry HVR160 offers excellent value for money. It's priced at £119 which is cheaper than Charles CVC370 (RRP £169), Karcher WD4 (RRP £139.98) and Makita DVC750 (RRP £159.99). Whist it's not a wet and dry vacuum cleaner, it can be used anywhere in the home which may be the better option for you if you tend to dip in and out of projects.

Should you buy the Henry HVR160?

The Henry HVR160 is a brilliant buy if you need a vacuum cleaner that is robust, reliable and low maintenance. It has ample suction to clear away dust, wood shavings, small pieces of rubble, plasterboard scraps and insulation flyaways. Yes, the bags are an ongoing cost but you'll rarely need to replace them and, honestly, it's well worth containing the dry DIY messes in this way so you don't make the mess again when emptying.

It is noisy compared to other household vacuum cleaners, but the performance outweighs this in my mind. I did also find that when storing the floorhead and hose in an upright position it felt flimsy, although after years of use it will find its own safe space in whatever configuration – as it has done at our house.

Looking to clear up the mess from other DIY and renovation projects? Our favourite window vacs will clear dust and dirt from windows and doors in no time, while the best pressure washers are perfect for messy outdoor jobs.

Why do I need a multi-use power tool? This is exactly what I was thinking when the Black & Decker MultiEvo Multi Tool arrived. Surely it can’t be as good as my single-use power tools. But at the same time, I was prepared to give it a go without any preconceptions.

As an experienced DIYer, I’ve used a lot of Black + Decker tools (I still have my drill from over 10 years ago), and they haven’t disappointed, so I thought it could be a real winner. Offering plenty of versatility at a price point that occasional DIYers will like.

But there’s always one point of contention with cordless tools: battery life. How will the MultiEvo Multi Tool perform compared to other best multi tools in our tests? Read on to find out.

Specs and features

• Battery voltage: 18v
• Battery type: Lithium Ion
• Weight: 4kg
• Guarantee: One year
• Speed: Variable - up to 7500rpm
• Features: Magnetic bit holder, LED work light, Torque adjustment collar
• In the box: 1 x hammer drill head, 1 x Jigsaw head, 1 x sanding head, 1 x 1.5Ah battery, 1 x charger, 1 x 16" toolbox, 5 x drill bits, 5 x Jigsaw blades, 5 x sander sheets.

BUY THE BLACK & DECKER MULTIEVO MULTI TOOL FROM ARGOS TODAY

Unboxing and first impressions

The Black & Decker MultiEvo Multi Tool is neatly packed in its own sturdy 16-inch toolbox. All I needed to do was remove the cardboard wrapper, and I was ready to go. Unlike some carry cases that come with kits or sets, this wasn’t a cheap add-on. It was well-made and seemed built to last, I reckon, as long as the tool itself.

The toolbox provided the perfect carry case for the multi tool body, attachments, and battery charger, with just enough room for an extra attachment if needed. It also features a couple of neat storage compartments integrated into the lid, perfect for storing the included drill bits and jigsaw blades.

The body of the tool felt sturdy, and I liked the rubber handle, which offered a good grip. I also noticed a magnetic drill bit holder positioned on top of the body. The double-ended bit was definitely staying put until needed – a simple but neat touch that shows thought has been put into the design of the MultiEvo.

Setting up drill, sander and saw attachments

A multi-tool requires more effort to prepare your preferred attachment, but luckily, the process is straightforward and intuitive. Each attachment slides and clicks into place neatly, and changing them is as simple as pulling back the quick-release button and extracting the attachment.

The drill attachment offers various options, including torque and hammer settings, which are easy to understand. The sander attachment only needs a pad attached, while the jigsaw involves a bit more work, but remains simple to change blades. One safety feature I particularly liked is that the trigger locks when an attachment is removed, so there's no need to remove the battery to swap heads. If you're unsure how to use any of the attachments, each one comes with a manual included in the set.

How well did the Black & Decker MultiEvo work?

Unlike a single-use power tool, there’s more to consider with a multi-tool. First, the body and attachments need to be put together. This was easy for all, and the first attachment we tested was the detail sander. Included are five good-quality pads in various grits – P60, P80, and P120 – that cover most sanding DIY tasks. The pad's position relative to the body made it really easy to use.

I tested by sanding stairs, walls, door frames and plywood shelving, which I am putting together. The pad ensured I got into all corners and did a decent job. There is an easy-to-use exhaust attachment to help redirect dust. No bag, though.

Next up was the drill attachment. Again, easy to attach, set up and use. We tried the typical tests with the provided drill bits. The wood bits were better than the masonry bits, a small point, and you can buy drill bits like this BLACK+DECKER 50 Pc. Mixed Drill and Screwdriver Bit Set from Amazon, if you need. There were various torque settings and a hammer setting that gave a little extra oomph when drilling into walls.

We made good use of the Phillips and flat-head double-end drill bit. There’s only one included, so you will need to invest in new screwdriver bits quite quickly, but you can buy reasonably priced sets like this DEWALT Screwdriver Bit Set from Amazon to keep you going.

Last up was the jigsaw attachment. This came with five 10 TPI wood blades (also usable on plastic), making it a good all-round choice. Inserting the blades was quick and easy. A small handle at the back of the attachment needs to be pushed down for a quick fit. I suggest inserting the blade before adding the attachment, it's just easier and safer in my opinion.

To test the saw, we kicked off by cutting 18mm plywood. The MultiEvo provided enough power to slowly cut through the plywood. It was pretty straightforward to use; the blade worked as well as any other jigsaw blade I've used. Next, we tried it on 6mm hardboard, which, as you might expect, was easier to cut through than the plywood. Finally, it was a plastic plumbing pipe which it breezed through.

Battery life

Battery life is critical on cordless tools, and with the Black & Decker MultiEvo Multi Tool we were left wanting more. Included is a small, lightweight 1A Charger and a 1.5Ah battery. These are the minimum requirements for a cordless tool. There’s no doubt that a larger battery and faster charger would have pushed the MultiEvo towards five stars.

Straight out of the box, the battery took three to four hours to reach full capacity, which lasted 30-45 mins (depending on the job). This makes it ideal for small DIY projects, but if you’ve got a sanding project, the battery time wouldn’t be enough to complete it, which can be annoying.

My recommendation for any cordless tool is to get a backup battery and keep it fully charged so you can continue working when you want. And, this is definitely the case for the Black & Decker MultiEvo Multi Tool.

THE FINAL VERDICT

If you don’t own a cordless drill, electric sander or jigsaw – or are in the market for a replacement – this multitool is a budget-friendly, multi-talented tool that is a top choice, especially for novice and occasional DIYers.

Not only do you get the three attachments (typically the most commonly used in my opinion), but you get the extras you need (drill bits/sanding pads/jigsaw blades) to use the multi-tool straight out of the toolbox

And you are not restricted to the three attachments; Black + Decker has a whole range of attachments (like this BLACK+DECKER Multievo Multi-tool Impact Driver Attachment from Amazon) and this Black and Decker MULTiEVO Multi Tool Oscillating Attachment from Tooled-Up, that can make the tool even more valuable. There are even attachments outside the DIY sphere.

It's this versatility and the toolbox that make the MultiEvo the complete package. But there is a downside, admittedly one that can be easily remedied. The battery life is limited, and the charging times are long. But invest in an additional, larger Ah battery (like this BLACK+DECKER 18V 4.0Ah Lithium Ion Battery from Amazon), or even a couple, and charge overnight, and you will get much improved battery life and a lot less time waiting between charges.

I’m always excited when I get a new power tool; I feel like a kid at Christmas. I can’t wait to take it out of the box and start working. Of course, I need to be more restrained when testing a product, but my enthusiasm stays the same.

The latest addition to my collection is the Black & Decker 18V Brushless Angle Grinder (available from Argos). Having previous experience with Black + Decker tools, I expected this device to be reliable. Aimed at DIYers, the set included everything I needed to start cleaning, cutting, and removing rust. But, as with all cordless power tools, how would the battery life hold up, and how quickly would it recharge? Time to find out.

Specs and features

• Battery voltage: 18v
• Battery type: Lithium Ion
• Motor: Brushless
• Max speed: 7600rpm
• Disc size: 115mm
• Weight: 3.6kg
• Guarantee: Two years
• Features: Soft grip handle, side handle, spindle lock, protective guard
• In the box: 1 x 2.0Ah Battery, 1 x Charger, 3 x 115mm cutting discs, soft bag, and a two-pin spanner

BUY THE BLACK + DECKER 18V BRUSHLESS ANGLE GRINDER FROM TOOLSTATION TODAY

Unboxing and first impressions

A good first impression is always positive, and straight out of the box, there was a crisp, clean, and hefty angle grinder. It felt like a sturdy piece of equipment. Accompanying the angle grinder was a handle, three cutting discs – strangely, two together and one separate in the box. These discs were all the same size –115mm x 65mm x 22.23mm – and were specifically designed for working with metal. It’s worth noting that a 115mm angle grinder sits at the smaller end of the market, making it a general all-rounder for DIYers. Larger 150mm/230mm grinders are more suitable for heavy-duty tasks.

Included was a two-pin lock-nut spanner – needed to attach and remove the cutting disc – a 2.0 Ah battery, a small, lightweight charger, and a soft carry bag. More about the battery later.

The handle was unattached but could be mounted on either the left or right side of the angle grinder, making it ideal for both right and left-handed users. Something DIYers might not spot immediately (I didn’t) is that the lock-nut spanner is neatly tucked away in the handle. A smart choice? We weren't so sure, the spanner could have been packed separately in the box and labelled more obviously to avoid any confusion.

Once I found it, it was easy to remove, use and replace. How would I describe the spanner? Functional rather than fancy, but you can buy an adjustable angle grinder spanner – with a rubber-covered handle for extra grip and comfort – for less than a fiver. I personally have this xdg Angle Grinder Adjustable Spanner from Amazon, which does a good job.

Setting up angle grinder

There’s not a lot to do to set up the Black & Decker 18V Brushless Angle Grinder. Fit the side handle to your preferred side – left or right –, slip out the lock spanner, fit a cutting disc and insert the battery.

Fitting the cutting disc wasn’t as straightforward as I'd hoped. The spindle lock button needs to be fully depressed to engage (which I thought was the case the first few times, but it wasn’t), and you need to wiggle the disc to lock it. There’s a knack to fitting the disc, but it gets easier the more you do it. Locking the flange nut keeps the disc in place. This can be reversed for thinner discs.

There’s an adjustable guard that is quick and simple and move into position. A quick-release lever makes it easy to move from the default grinding position to a cutting position. Simply release the lever, move the guard and close the lever. Job done. It’s worth noting that you might need a larger guard (not supplied) if using a wire brush wheel. Once everything’s sorted, you simply need to slip in the battery and you're ready for action.

How well did the Black & Decker 18V Brushless Angle Grinder work

To test the Black & Decker 18V Brushless Angle Grinder, we started with the three identical discs supplied. They are specifically designed for use on metal, which influenced how I initially used the angle grinder.

I began by cleaning a few rusty tools that needed a refresh, then removing old paint from a few metal posts that needed repair. All went well, and an easy-to-use locking on/off switch kicked the angle grinder into life. The grip was secure and the vibration was acceptable, but – not unexpectedly – in action, it was noisy, so you will definitely need earplugs or ear defenders (like these 3M PELTOR Optime earmuffs from Amazon).

Sparks were all part of the process, and the guard did a good job of redirecting them away from me. But, I still used googles and gloves (I’m a very sensible man nowadays, thanks to previous experiences). The supplied discs performed well. I only needed to use one to clean four or five tools and four or five metal posts, and it was still doing a good job.

The next test was removing mortar for a repointing project I’m working on and cutting ceramic floor tiles. I had to purchase suitable stone/masonry discs, which are typically thinner than metal discs. I simply flipped the fixing flange for a tight fit. The grinder powered through the tiles and mortar, no problem, but not for much longer than 20 minutes before it was time for a charge.

How was the battery life?

As with any cordless power tool, battery and charging times are a big deal, and the Black & Decker 18V Brushless Angle Grinder didn’t hit the heady heights we might have hoped. The angle grinder comes with a 2.0Ah Battery and a small, lightweight 1A Charger. Both are adequate for small DIY tasks, but we would have liked to see a larger-capacity battery and a faster charger. I’m sure this would increase the RRP, but it would definitely be worth it.

Straight out of the box, the battery took three hours to reach full capacity. Ideally, you want to charge overnight. Don’t worry, the charger can be left connected even after it's fully charged. Charging times after this were less, but still took hours rather than minutes.

It has a single LED that flashes or stays on, depending on whether it's fully charged or not. A quartet of easy-to-understand icons tell you what the LED status means. A few notable charger features we liked were charging suspension when the battery is excessively hot or cold, and diagnostics to check whether the battery is weak or damaged.

Fully charged, the battery lasts 20-30 minutes, depending on how it's used, but it was still disappointing. Definitely consider investing in a larger-capacity battery and keep a spare on hand so you can keep a job going uninterrupted.

Final verdict

If you want to use the Black & Decker 18V Brushless Angle Grinder straight out of the box, you can remove rust from tools or cut through metal using the included discs. However, for other common tasks such as removing mortar, cutting tiles, or sanding and polishing, you will need to purchase discs designed for those specific jobs.

This isn’t a major issue, especially if you have lots of metalwork to tackle. But since Black + Decker supplies three discs with the grinder, I would have preferred a variety, such as a masonry-cutting disc, particularly since I was working on a repointing project.

However, my main concern was the battery and charger. They worked well when fully charged, but the charging times were lengthy and the battery life shorter than expected. An issue compounded by the lack of a spare battery. A higher capacity battery or a spare would have been a nice addition.

However, the Black & Decker 18V Brushless Angle Grinder is aimed at DIYers, not professionals, so the short working time won’t be such a big issue. But to get the most out of the angle grinder, I highly recommend investing in an extra battery like this 3.0Ah LBXR20 Li-ion Replacement for Black and Decker 18V Battery from Amazon for continuous use

Martin Kemp has broken his silence after suffering a serious chainsaw accident during some gardening work at his Hertfordshire home.

The Spandau Ballet star, 64, injured his hand while doing some garden work, attempting to trim branches as part of the couple’s ongoing home renovation and landscaping projects.

Posting a short video to Instagram, Kemp appeared with his hand bandaged and told fans: “Hey guys, just a little message. You might have seen in the papers that I had a terrible accident with a chainsaw, which I did, but it was last week. I’m a lot better now.”

Kemp later confirmed he was “alright” after grabbing the chainsaw by the blade when it suddenly turned on - a frightening ordeal that saw him rushed to hospital. Despite the incident, he’s reportedly already back pottering in the garden.

'Why is he picking up a chainsaw?'

Roman went on to share that his father had texted the family group chat late on Friday night with no explanation.

“I just finished work, looked at my phone, and saw a photo of his hand. All his fingers were strapped up, and all he wrote was, ‘Yep… Chainsaw!!!’”

When Roman and his sister Harley pressed for details, Martin eventually replied: “There was a bit of a branch we wanted chopping down, so I went and got a chainsaw.”

Roman joked that his dad should “hire a professional” at his age, adding: “He’s 65 – he’s got more than enough dough! Why is he picking up a chainsaw?”

According to Roman, Martin admitted: “I picked it up from the blade.”

The former EastEnders actor was rushed to hospital, where he received treatment for deep cuts and a tetanus shot. Fortunately, the musician still has full use of his fingers, and his sense of humour.

From garden glory to chaos

The accident comes just a month after Martin delighted fans on Instagram with his autumn harvest of giant kale and Brussels sprouts, proudly grown in raised beds at the couple’s countryside home.

In posts shared on Instagram, followers praised the star’s huge harvests, impressive garden setup and his passion for homegrown produce.

Meanwhile, Martin’s wife Shirlie Kemp, 62, recently showcased her ‘unkempt’ Victorian garden style, a wild, meadow-inspired approach designed to encourage biodiversity and natural beauty.

She revealed that the couple had been preparing their garden for the RHS Chelsea Flower Show, explaining that letting the plants grow freely “creates a romantic, natural space that supports wildlife.”

The Kemp home renovation journey

The couple’s Hertfordshire property has been a labour of love for the past few years.

Martin and Shirlie transformed their Victorian home, including a full kitchen redesign, refreshed garden areas, and even the conversion of a former pig hut into a “romantic rustic dining room” nicknamed Piglet.

What began as a five-year renovation plan was completed in just 18 months, and the pair often share glimpses of their stylish interiors and tranquil garden on Instagram.

Kemp now 'banned from power tools'

Martin is said to be recovering well at home and “already back to pottering about in the garden,” though he’s been strictly forbidden from touching any sharp tools for the foreseeable future.

Roman joked: “Mum’s banned him from anything with a blade. She said if he can’t be trusted with a chainsaw, he can stick to watering the kale.”

Fans have flooded the couple’s Instagram page with messages of support, and plenty of gentle teasing, reminding everyone that even the most experienced DIY enthusiasts should take care when working outdoors this winter.

Former footballer and manager Harry Redknapp has become the face of a new eco-friendly DIY product after being shocked by the amount of plastic waste created during his own home renovation.

Redknapp is lending his support to UniBond’s Next Generation Sealant Cartridge - a recyclable, part-cardboard alternative that the company says can reduce plastic waste by 51% and CO₂ emissions from home projects.

The product forms part of UniBond’s drive to make everyday DIY more sustainable across UK households.

‘I had no idea how much waste these simple products create’

Redknapp said his involvement came after seeing first-hand how much waste his own renovation produced.

“I’ll be honest, I had no idea the amount of plastic waste that came from those old sealant cartridges,” Redknapp said. “I’m going through my own home renovation now and it’s definitely made me think. It’s great to see more sustainable products like this available - what a game-changing impact there would be if more people made the switch.”

Traditional sealant cartridges are typically made of single-use plastic that becomes contaminated with residue and ends up in landfill.

Innovation behind the next generation cartridge

According to UniBond, the Next Generation Cartridge is made from recycled cardboard, while the plastic cap, nozzle, and piston contain at least 49% recycled material.

The company says the design produces 73% less overall waste compared to previous cartridges.

Eve Kolesova, Head of Marketing at UniBond UK & Ireland, said: “Sealant cartridges are often overlooked as a contributor to construction waste. Our goal with the Next Generation of Cartridges is to provide a solution that performs exceptionally while significantly reducing environmental impact.”

Greener homes, bigger impact

UniBond’s data suggests that around 13 million cartridges will be used by homeowners undertaking renovations over the next two years, from resealing bathrooms and kitchens to insulating lofts and windows.

The company estimates that if all those projects used the Next Generation Cartridge, it could save the equivalent of 76 million plastic bags and nearly 2,000 tonnes of CO₂, roughly equal to one person travelling eight million miles by air.

Redknapp hopes his experience will encourage more homeowners to think about sustainability when tackling home improvement projects.

“It’s made me realise how even small changes at home can make a big difference,” he said. “If more of us thought about what we’re using, the impact could be massive.”

Paint is present throughout your home; it covers the walls, ceilings, doors, windows, and skirting boards. It is the classic finish that can quickly transform the colour, mood, and style of a room. Plus, it's a project most DIY enthusiasts can undertake themselves.

However, knowing how to paint a room is just one step towards a perfect paint job. Selecting the right paint is essential for success, and here we have compiled a list of our favourite places to buy paint. You’ll find everything from budget-friendly options to high-end, colour-perfect paints that can elevate any painting project.

Before you buy paint, think about what type of paint and tools you’re going to need

Paint comes in many guises, so you need to decide what you need before you start the purchasing process. Emulsion is the paint of choice for walls and ceilings, but if using it in a high-traffic area like a hallway, you want a paint that is durable and washable. Then you’ll need to think about the finish. Matt is great for walls that aren’t perfect, as it reflects less light.

When painting skirting boards, doors, door frames, architraves, and window sills, you need a hard-wearing, durable and wipeable paint. The finish is typically a choice of satin or gloss, with a satin finish being a popular choice for contemporary homes, offering a lower, more subtle sheen.

And, don’t forget that you’ll need the right tools to ensure a successful paint project. Check your paint brushes and rollers to see if you’ll need to invest in some new ones. Try this Harris Seriously Good Walls & Ceilings Paint Roller Set from Amazon for walls and ceilings. This ProDec 10 litre Plastic Paint Scuttle Bucket and Harris Seriously Good Aluminium Extension Pole (both from Amazon) are handy companions when using rollers.

Where to buy paint for indoors and outdoors

Below is selection of the best UK retailers that sell paint. The prices are correct at the time of publication, be sure to check each website for the most up-to-date prices and any special offers.

• B&Q - A collection of the best emulsion paints for walls and ceilings
• Amazon - Paints for ceilings, kitchen cupboards and garden fences
• Frenchic - Artisan and innovative paints for interior, outdoors and furniture
• Wickes - Budget-friendly emulsions and top-class primers
• Lick - A range of eco-friendly, pigment-rich paint colours in matt and eggshell
• The Paint Shed - Hard-wearing, durable, and long-lasting trade paints

B&Q

Amazon

Frenchic

Wickes

Lick

The Paint Shed

When tackling a paint project you not only need the best gloss paint for your woodwork you need the best tools to apply the paint. Check out our guide on the best paint sprayers for a quick fine finish and the best tools to buy on Amazon.

Sanding metal is a crucial part of the preparation process when restoring radiators, preparing garden furniture for painting, and freshening up a front gate. It's also a great way to remove rust by cleaning affected surfaces.

However, when sanding metal, it's essential to select the right tools, choose the appropriate sandpaper grits, and employ the correct techniques to achieve the smooth, clean finish you need. Get it wrong and you could be doubling your workload or be left with a less-than-satisfactory surface. Here, you’ll find all you need to know to ensure that doesn’t happen.

Commonly sanded metals

Sanding metal is a common process for a variety of reasons, as Paul McFadyen, metal expert and chairman at metals4U, explains: “Whether it’s for a DIY project, restoration, or prep for painting, there are various metal items that commonly need sanding.”

He continues, “Steel and wrought iron are typically used for gates, railings, garden furniture, and radiators, and are usually sanded to remove any rust and peeling paint before repainting.”

McFadyen mentions other popular options “Similarly, aluminium items like car parts and bodywork, cookware, and certain tools and machinery, will benefit from sanding to restore shine and improve the adhesion of any finishes. Sanding aluminium can smooth over any scratches and prepare these items for paint and polish.”

Protective equipment you'll need

When working with metal, it's essential that you have the right safety gear to protect yourself. Leigh Start, managing director at The Metal Store, says, “Safety should never be overlooked.” He recommends that you always wear the following:

• Protective gloves to prevent cuts from sharp metal edges.
• Safety goggles to shield against dust and particles.
• A dust mask or respirator to avoid inhaling fine metal dust.
• Ear protection if using power tools.

Try these tools for sanding metal

Tools you’ll need to sand metal

What tools you’ll need to sand metal will depend on what type of sanding job you are tackling. Here Start lists the common options:

• Orbital sander for larger jobs.
• Wire brush or flap wheel attachments for removing rust.
• Sanding blocks for hand sanding.
• Detail sanders or sanding sponges for hard-to-reach areas.

Best ways to sand metal

Before any sanding is performed, McFadyen advises that it needs cleaning first: “The first step is to always clean the metal surface to remove any dirt or grease that could interfere with the sanding process. Make sure the metal is fully dry before sanding.”

McFadyen offers one essential tip to follow: “Start with a coarser grit and move to a finer one as you progress. A coarse grit will help to remove rust and paint before further sanding, whereas a fine grit will give a smoother finish.” Once the metal is dry and you can use one of the following methods.

Using a power sander

Using a power sander can help speed up the sanding process, but it must be used correctly. McFadyen says, “Make sure to keep the tool moving to avoid creating deep scratches and heat spots.”

He points out, “A common mistake people make when sanding is pressing too hard, which can create uneven surfaces and scratches.” He adds, “Excessive force can damage the metal, so stick to a moderate pressure. If you find yourself needing to press harder for an effective job, you should switch to a coarser grit.”

A power sander (like a random orbital sander) is the preferred choice for larger flat areas. However, for more detailed/intricate areas and edges, switching to hand sanding is the best choice.

Sanding by hand

For general hand sanding, Start says, “Hand sanding involves using a sheet of sandpaper (often wrapped around a sanding block) and working in smooth, even strokes across the surface. The key is patience and consistency.” He adds, “Avoid pressing too hard, which can leave gouges or an uneven finish.”

For more intricate areas where a sanding block won’t work, you can use the sandpaper directly in your hand. Alternatively, you can use a sanding sponge (like these Sanding Sponges from Amazon). These will fit the shape of the metal being sanded.

Sanding mistakes to avoid

It's easy to make mistakes when sanding. Here Start offers four tips to help ensure the sanding process goes smoothly.

• Using sandpaper that’s too coarse, which can scratch the metal beyond repair.
• Skipping grits - moving from very coarse straight to fine leaves visible marks.
• Applying uneven pressure, which causes dips in the surface.
• Forgetting to clean the metal before and after sanding, leading to debris being trapped under paint or coatings.

Best sandpaper for sanding metal

Start recommends the following sandpapers for sanding metal, “Aluminium oxide sandpaper is the go-to for most metalwork thanks to its durability. For stainless steel, silicon carbide papers are better as they cut cleaner and faster.” Both of these can be easily found online or at your local hardware store.

McFadyen explains what grits to use, “For heavy rust and paint removal, you’ll likely want to choose a coarse 40-80 grit sandpaper. For smoothing rough surfaces, progress to 120-180 grit sandpaper. Finally, 220-240 grit sandpaper will give your metal a polished finish."

He adds, “Steel is typically stronger than aluminium and can handle coarser grits, whereas wet sanding with a medium grit is more effective for aluminium to prevent warping. Copper and brass are much softer, so you’ll need to choose a finer grit and use gentle pressure to prevent scratching.”

FAQs

What is the best way to clean metal after sanding?

After sanding metal, it's recommended to clean the metal before moving on to the next stage. Start says, “Once sanding is complete, wipe the surface down with a clean cloth and a solvent such as acetone or white spirit.” He adds, “This removes fine dust and grease, ensuring the surface is completely ready for paint, primer or sealant.”

Should I use water when sanding metal?

Water is sometimes suggested to be used when sanding metal but Start suggests you don’t. “Avoid using water when sanding most metals. Moisture encourages flash rusting, which can undo all your hard work. Instead, keep the area dry and clean as you go.”

He adds, “Wet sanding is sometimes used in specialist applications such as car bodywork, but for most home and garden metal projects, keeping the process dry is safer and more effective.”

If you’re looking to update your radiators, you’ll need to sand and prep before you start. To get the finish you want, check out our guides How to paint a radiator and How to paint behind a radiator. Alternatively, if you don’t want to paint your radiators, try our radiator cover ideas for inspiration.

Rust is unsightly, damaging, and weakens the metal it affects, eventually destroying the surface. Knowing how to remove rust from metal is a useful skill that helps restore tools, furniture, and any other surfaces affected by rust.

Whether you're painting a garage door, cleaning garden tools, or removing heavy-duty rust, you only need a few items to make them rust-free. You can choose a specialist rust remover or power tool for fast removal, or use household items and elbow grease for surface rust.

Find out what will work best for your needs with some smart advice from the pros.

Why rust forms on metal

We all know that rust is the unsightly reddish-brown stain or mark that appears on metal when it is exposed to rain. Here, Leigh Start, managing director at The Metal Store, shares more on what it is: “Rust happens when iron meets oxygen and moisture, creating iron oxide – the reddish-brown substance you see peeling off old metal fences, tools or forgotten machinery. It weakens metal, tarnishes the appearance and makes your job more difficult in the long run.”

But rust doesn’t appear on all metals, adds Start, “Only metals with iron in them can actually rust, so materials like mild steel and carbon steel are most at risk.”

Try these tools to help clean rust off metal

How to clean rust off metal

When it comes to rust, Start says, “Prevention is always better than cure.” But once rust has formed, it needs to be dealt with, and there are a range of methods to get your metal back into shape.

Professional rust cleaners

There is a whole host of specialist rust removers on the market, with Start pointing out, “They are far more effective than household remedies.”

He adds, “Many of these contain acids such as phosphoric or oxalic acid, which react with iron oxide, either converting it into a more stable compound (iron phosphate) or dissolving it, so it can then be scrubbed away.”

Typically, you can choose from liquid rust removers, such as MultiWare Rust Remover (available on Amazon), where you leave the metal object immersed in the liquid. But these aren’t always a viable option for larger metal objects. A rust remover like Bilt Hamber Deox-Gel Rust Remover (available from Amazon) is a gel that you apply, leave and then remove the rust. A rust converter, like Hammerite Kurust (available from Amazon), converts the rust into a stable surface that can be painted over.

Whatever method you choose, Start says, “Always wear gloves and eye protection when working with acidic rust removers.

Paul McFadyen, metal expert and chairman at metals4U, runs through the cleaning process using WD-40. “Remove any excess rust on the surface with a stiff wire brush, then apply your chosen rust remover onto the affected surface.” He adds, “This could be a commercial chemical remover, like WD-40 (available from Amazon), that is specifically designed to remove rust effectively. Leave the product to settle on the surface for a few minutes before scrubbing away using a wire brush.”

Everyday alternatives

If you have light surface rust, you can try shop-bought alternatives that you might already have. Start says, “If you don’t have a rust remover on hand, white vinegar works well on light surface rust, thanks to its acetic acid content.” He adds, “Small items can be soaked overnight, while larger ones can be scrubbed with vinegar and rinsed clean. It’s slower and less effective than purpose-made rust removers but can work in a pinch.”

For a more manual approach, Start says, “Mechanical methods such as wire wool, wire brushes or sandpaper are also reliable for removing surface rust.”

Homemade solutions

A DIY option can be useful for smaller items with light rust, as McFayden shares, “A solution of lemon and salt can be particularly effective on smaller household items, like knives and cookware. Simply coat the rusted area in salt before squeezing lemon juice on top. Leave the mixture to sit before scrubbing the rust away. Finally, rinse and pat the item dry.”

Using power tools to clean rust off metal

There will be times when a power tool for cleaning rust off metal can be a sensible choice. Start says, “For light rust, hand tools are usually sufficient; for heavier corrosion, consider using power tools.”

There are a few tools you can use shares Start, “An angle grinder fitted with a flap disc or wire cup brush is ideal for large surfaces, while a drill with a wire brush wheel (like this SI FANG Wire Brush for Drill from Amazon) suits smaller objects.”

McFadyen adds, “A sanding tool (like this BLACK+DECKER Sander from Amazon) is useful for cleaning large, flat surfaces.” He shares how, “Start with a coarser grit, before working up to finer grits until you get a smooth finish.” He adds a note of caution, “You can also use wire brush attachments, but be careful as these can damage softer metals like copper and brass.”

Start finishes by saying, “Whichever tool you use, always wear safety gear (like these UKNOW Safety Goggles from Amazon), as rust particles can be sharp and hazardous.”

Treating newly cleaned metal

Once you’ve removed any rust from metal surfaces, you don’t want it coming back. The best way to prevent this from happening is to create a protective barrier. McFayden shares how, “Use paint or a sealant to stop oxygen and moisture interacting with the metal surface.”

Start adds, “A rust-inhibiting primer and topcoat of paint will block out moisture and oxygen, while oils, waxes or protective sprays are useful on tools and machinery.” If you want a longer-lasting solution, he suggests, “Powder coating or galvanising offers more durable protection.”

Once a protective layer has been applied, McFayden offers a couple of tips to help keep rust away: “Make sure to store metal items somewhere dry, always wiping them down if they get wet.” He adds, “Regularly check metal surfaces for signs of rusting, reapplying coatings if needed.”

FAQ

Does Coca-Cola or potatoes clean rust off metal?

You’ll often see claims across social media and the web that unusual options can clean rust off metal. Coca-Cola and potatoes are two methods that are often touted as rust removers, but do they really work? Start points out that both work but are not as effective as other solutions, “Coca-Cola contains phosphoric acid and can help dissolve light rust,“ But he adds, “It’s sticky and inefficient compared to proper products.”

Potatoes are another readily available item that is mentioned as an effective rust remover. Start shares, “Potatoes contain oxalic acid and, when rubbed on with salt or baking soda, can also shift surface rust - but neither method will deal with heavy corrosion.”

McFayden explains further: “Cut a potato in half and cover the exposed end in washing-up liquid. Rub this side of the potato onto the rusty surface, then let it sit for an hour. Afterwards, scrub to remove the loosened rust and rinse clean.”

Once you’ve cleaned off any rust, you can think about painting the metal. Check out our guides on How to paint a radiator, How to paint behind a radiator, and Best radiator paints to help get a smart new finish and keep rust at bay.

Drilling into walls is a skill that all DIYers need in their arsenal. Thankfully, it’s a straightforward task, but one that requires precision. You don’t want to mount a shelf or hang a TV, only to see it unexpectedly fall.

To achieve a neat, clean hole and a secure fix, you'll need ensure you use the right gear and techniques. The best cordless drill is a good start, but, having all the gear and no idea is never a good place to start from.

Here we we outline the best tools, tips and tricks along with a step-by-step expert guide to drilling into walls so you can be safe in the knowledge you have everything you need to confidently complete the job.

How to assess the wall before drilling

Before you start any drilling, you need to know what type of wall you are dealing with as there isn't one rule fits all when it comes to drilling into walls.

“Before you drill into any wall, you need to identify what you're working with," says Tyler Mullen, manager at Pro-Tools. "Plasterboard is very different to brick or concrete, and each one needs a different approach.”

“I always start by tapping the wall lightly to get a sense of whether it’s hollow or solid, then confirm that with a detector,” says Tyler. If there is a hollow sound, this typically suggests that you are working with a timber stud wall covered in plasterboard.

However, it's not just the construction of the wall that you need to establish. There are certain areas of a wall you need to avoid when drilling or you could land yourself with more mess and disruption than you planned for.

Robert Quniton, Construction expert for Construction Megastore Building Materials explains.

“Certain areas can hide electrical wires, pipes, or key structural components. Be careful when working near plumbing fixtures such as sinks and toilets, as well as around spots where mains water or gas pipes might be located, as these can burst and cause major water leakages," he warns.

Besides water issues, you also need to be cautious about the location of electrical wiring. To avoid serious problems, Robert advises the following. “Avoid drilling directly above, below, or beside plug sockets and light switches. You should also steer clear of the top 150mm of a wall and the 150mm zone running along corners.”

Of course, simply tapping the wall won't ever establish where these items are located, and this is where a good detector comes in.

“You should never drill blind," says Tyler. "Use a decent digital detector (like this Bosch Truvo detector from Amazon) to check for pipes, cables, and studs, especially near sockets or light switches. It’s never worth the risk of drilling into walls without checking first.”

The tool kit you’ll need for drilling into a wall

Once you know what type of wall you are working with, you then need to choose the right tools.

“A standard hammer drill works for brick, but for drilling into concrete, you’ll want an SDS drill (like this Makita HR2630 SDS Plus Rotary Hammer Drill from Amazon,” says Tyler Mullen.

If you're drilling into plasterboard a standard drill will do the job, but you need choose the right bit for your drill. "You'll need a masonry bit for solid walls, wood or metal bits for others – and make sure they're sharp," adds Tyler Mullen.

When choosing a bit size, pick one with a diameter that closely matches that of your screw or Rawl plug.

Also, don’t forget your safety gear. It's not essential to wear safety goggles for basic drilling, but it is advised. If you are undertaking heavier-duty drilling, it’s recommended that you wear safety glasses like these Mustbau Clear Safety Glasses from Amazon.

Try the tools for drilling into walls

Steps for drilling into a wall

After you have assessed what type of wall and checked for any pipes or cables you can start drilling safely, following these expert approved steps.

1. Mark drill point

Before you start drilling, measure and mark your drill hole. “Use a pencil to mark where you want to drill and for extra precision, press the drill bit lightly into the wall first to make a small guide mark – this helps stop the bit from slipping,” says Robert Quinton.

If marking more than one drill point, double check any measurements and make sure they are level if needed.

2. Drill slow and steady

Before you start drilling, place the point of the drill on its mark, keep it level and start up the drill. Tyler Mullen says, “go slow and steady, especially at first. Let the drill do the work – don’t force it.”

“And don’t forget to stop now and then to clear the dust, especially on deeper holes," he adds. "It sounds simple, but rushing it is where most people go wrong.”

Not sure how deep you need to drill? “To control the depth, measure your drill bit against the Rawl plug and mark it with masking tape,” suggests Robert Quinton.

3. Clean and test

When you have finished drilling, Robert Quinton says to, “vacuum out any remaining dust to ensure a clean fit for the plug and screw and push the rawl plug into the hole. If it is a tight fit, tap it in gently with a hammer or mallet. Now you’re ready to insert and drive in your screw.”

If the fit is slightly loose you can either drill another hole, or add a match to the hole to create a tight, secure fit.

FAQ

What size Rawl plug do I need?

Choosing the right size Rawl plug is essential to ensure that whatever you're fixing to the wall will be secure, and the success you've had drilling into the wall isn't wasted.

It’s worth noting from the off, that Rawl plugs are not suitable for drilling into plasterboard, instead, you need the best plasterboard fixings instead.

To make sure you are choosing the appropriate size Rawl plug, think about the weight of the object you want to support. For loads of up to 20kg, you typically need a 3-5.5mm diameter Rawl plug. For heavier loads, a 6-8mm Rawl plug is usually adequate. For loads over 50kg, try a 10mm Rawl plug.

The length is also important; ideally, pick the longest plug for the chosen diameter. The longer the plug, the more secure it will be. Ensure that you choose a screw that is slightly shorter than the length of the Rawl plug for a secure fit.

If, however, you do damage a Rawl plug trying to insert it into a wall, follow the advice in how to get Rawl plugs out of a wall to cause as little damage as possible.

Put your newly found drilling into walls knowledge to good use by tackling some easy shelving projects to get you started. Check out our bathroom shelf ideas, radiator shelf ideas and utility room shelving ideas to help spruce up your home using your new found DIY skills.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

Drilling into concrete isn’t as hard as you might think, even if you’re a first-time DIYer. You just need to ensure that you have the right tools and the techniques suggested in this guide. Follow these, and you’ll be ready to go.

The type of drill and drill bit are the real game changers here. Choose the right combination, and drilling into concrete will be much easier. And it will give you clean, precise holes. Using the wrong tools and techniques will not only waste time and effort but also damage your tools more quickly. Here you’ll find what you need to know to make sure that doesn’t happen.

Safety gear for drilling into concrete

Drilling into concrete can be dangerous and messy, so before you start, ensure you have appropriate protection; it's not recommended to drill without essential safety gear. Chris Lawson, Owner of Online Drawing UK, recommends, “Eye protection (like these Mustbau Clear Safety Glasses from Amazon) is essential because the dust from concrete is gritty and abrasive. A pair of gloves stops your hands from slipping and protects them from sharp edges.”

He adds, “Most importantly, wear a dust mask – concrete dust isn’t something you want to breathe in, and it’s surprising how quickly it fills a room, especially when drilling overhead. If you’re working indoors, open a window and move anything you don’t want covered in grey powder.”

Finally, drilling can be noisy, so investing in ear defenders or plugs like these 3M E-A-R Classic Earplugs from Amazon is a smart choice.

Choosing drill and drill bits

The drill and drill bits you need to drill into concrete depend on the type of concrete you are working with. You can use a standard combi drill to drill into concrete walls. However, Mike Bekin, Founder of Ecochoice, says that the equipment choice depends on the strength of the concrete, “On newer extensions where mixes are harder, an SDS-plus drill is the right tool. The percussion mechanism is designed to fracture stone rather than simply spin.”

He adds, “Match it with proper masonry bits rated for SDS drills rather than adapting standard ones.”

Lawson shares, “You’ll need masonry drill bits, ideally with a carbide tip, and for most household fixings, sizes of 5mm, 6mm and 8mm cover most needs.” To finish, he recommends a simple, but smart tip, “Keep a couple of spares because they do dull.” Try these BULLITT Masonry Drill Bits from Amazon.

Once you have drilled your holes, you will need secure screws or fixings. A combi drill should do the job; however, if you need more power or are installing many concrete screws, an impact driver such as the Ryobi R18ID2 ONE+ Cordless Impact Driver Starter Kit from Amazon is a better option. They offer more torque, making the process quicker and easier.

Try these tools for drilling into concrete

Checks to make before drilling into concrete

Before you start drilling, determine the type of concrete you are drilling into, the required depth, and whether you are drilling into any structural elements, such as a lintel. Lawson suggests, “Walls can hide water pipes and electrical runs, and you don’t want to find either the hard way. A basic cable and pipe detector is inexpensive and will give you confidence.”

Bekin adds, “Reinforcement isn’t a deal breaker if you hit it once, but repeatedly drilling into steel eats bits and can undermine the bar’s protective cover.” If in doubt, call in a professional to assess the situation.

Steps for drilling into concrete

Once you’ve assessed the state of the concrete and have your drill and bits ready, you can start drilling.

1. Mark drill hole

The first step is to mark where you want to drill. Lawson says, “To get the hole clean and straight, start by marking the position with a pencil.” Once you’ve marked the spot where you plan to drill, use a centre punch and hammer to make a small indent. This helps stop the drill bit wandering.

2. Ensure correct depth

Drilling to the right depth is important, especially if using Rawl plugs. Too deep, and the fixing may not be as secure. Lawson shares how, “Set your depth using the stop on the drill or a bit of tape wrapped around the drill bit.”

3. Drill a pilot hole

To facilitate drilling, create a pilot hole with a small drill bit. This should also prevent your drill bits from getting stuck or overheating.

4. Start drilling

With a pilot hole in place, it's time to begin drilling. Lawson says, “Start slowly to create a shallow guide, then increase power and let the drill do the work. Back the bit out occasionally to clear dust, then finish at full depth.”

Bekin shares a quick tip, “Vacuuming dust mid-way keeps the hole accurate and allows the anchor to grip properly once inserted.” If you have someone who can help, ask them to hold a builder's vacuum under the hole you’re drilling to catch the dust. If not, throw a dust sheet down beforehand.

FAQ

How do you stop concrete cracking when drilling?

When drilling into concrete, you want to ensure a clean hole and avoid cracking. To ensure this happens, there are a few simple rules to follow. Use a sharp bit and keep at least 50mm from any edges.

Keep the drill at a 90-degree angle to the surface and don’t apply excessive pressure. Go slow and steady. The more friction you generate, the more likely the concrete is to crack. If drilling a large hole, start with a small bit and gradually increase the bit size until you reach the desired size. This reduces friction, thereby reducing the likelihood of cracks.

The best cordless drills are typically a good choice for drilling into masonry and standard concrete. This makes them for putting up fittings. To put your new drill to good use, check out our bathroom shelf ideas and how to build pantry shelves so you can start your next project once you've mastered drilling into concrete.

Clean, straight factory edges are not always easy to replicate when using a circular saw. And there's nothing worse than a wavy or wonky cut, leading to ugly, poor-fitting edges. But with the right saw blade and assistance from a straight edge, factory-like edges are just a cut away.

Whether you are looking to get neat cross cuts or straight cuts on long boards, you’ll need one of the best circular saws, along with the methods mentioned in this guide. Choose the right option for your needs, and follow our tips, and you’ll get the straight cuts you desire.

Try these tools to get straight circular saw cuts

1. Speed square for crisp cross cuts

A quick and simple solution for neat and straight cross cuts is to use a speed square (also known as a carpenter's square). These are inexpensive and a tool DIYers should have in their toolkit.

Keely Smith, lead interior designer at JD Elite Interiors, reveals how to make good use of it: “I always suggest using it to mark a crisp 90-degree line right where you want to cut.” Then you need to line up the blade with the line and place the speed square up against the base plate of the saw and hold in place. Smith continues, “Let the blade spin up fully before moving forward, and don’t rush it. That steady motion really matters.”

A standard-size speed square should be sufficient for most cross-cuts. But you can invest in a larger speed square like this Senbaler 300mm Aluminium Alloy Triangle Ruler from Amazon for large cross cuts or shorter length cuts.

2. Introduce a guide rail

If you need a secure straight edge for long lengths of board, a guide rail (sometimes called a track saw) is an option.

These are ideal for standard-sized sheets/boards, typically 2.4m x 1.2m (or 8ft x 4ft in old money). These typically come in 1.4m lengths (like this Makita 1 Metre Guide Rail from Amazon, and can be connected to create 2.8m guides or even longer if needed.

Most models allow for bevel-edge (45-degree) cutting and often include stops to ensure the perfect length cut. Make sure to get the right size for your circular saw; most will fit.

3. Build a DIY saw guide

If you don’t want to invest in a guide rail, you can build your DIY saw guide, ideally with leftover scrap wood from a plywood board or part of a plywood board. This is cheaper, and relatively quick and simple to make.

Start with a sheet of 2.4m x 1.2m plywood (9mm or 12mm is ideal), like this Hardwood Plywood from B&Q, as this will have a straight, even edge to work with. Mark the factory-cut edge with a pencil and draw an arrow pointing to it so you know which edge to use later.

Now, cut the plywood to create the guide (also known as a fence). Most circular saw comes with a guide rule that fits across the front of the saw. Set this up to run along the straight edge to give you the guide piece of wood. This is approximately the width of the base plate. Don’t worry too much about the size; it doesn’t need to be a specific size, but it does need to be straight.

Finally, place the fence on top of the remaining plywood board to create a double-depth edge. Line up the freshly cut edge alongside the edge of the sheet of plywood and glue or screw it into position. If using glue, clamp into position and leave to dry for 24 hours. If using screws, make sure the length doesn’t exceed the depth of the wood.

To finish, line up your circular saw with the edge of the guide, start the saw and cut, making sure that the base plate hugs the edge of the guide all the way. This will give you the perfect-sized guide. To use, simply line up the edge of the guide with your marks and clamp it into place. Now, place your saw on the guide with the base plate against the guide and cut.

4. Scrap wood and clamps

This is a simple option for cutting straight edges, typically shorter lengths of wood. You will need scrap wood, anything with a straight factory cut edge, and a suitable length for the cut you are making will do.

To hold the scrap wood in place, you will need at least a couple of bar clamps like these Quick-Grip 5122Qc Twin Pack Bar Clamps from Amazon.

Line up your circular saw blade with your mark, and place the scrap wood against the base plate. Mark the position of the scrap wood with a pencil (in case it moves) and then clamp it into place. Now cut.

5. Use a parallel edge guide

If you want a guide that offers precision and accuracy on longer lengths of wood or board, then a parallel edge guide like this Kreg Rip-Cut Precision Edge-Guided Cutting Tool from B&Q is the perfect companion. It's like a guide rail (that typically comes with a circular saw) on steroids.

The tool includes a heavy-duty guide attached to a guide rail that has what is known as a sled to attach a circular saw to. The Kreg model accommodates right and left-handed models and allows cuts up to 600mm wide. They are easy to use. Simply attach a circular saw, secure the sled, start up the saw, and hold the oversized precision edge guide against the board edge to ensure a straight cut.

6. Improvise with a makeshift guide

When you don’t have a guide or scrap wood nearby, you can improvise and use other straight-edge tools, which you might have.

Life can be a lot of difficult when using a circular saw if you don't have any guide tools, and so if you don't have a guide rail or fence, you can use a metal rule or spirit level instead.

You can line up these against where you want to cut and against the side of the saw. Then you can simply clamp it in place at either end to give straight cuts.

FAQ

How do I get a straight edge if cutting by hand?

If you don’t have a guide available, you can try cutting without a guide. But I would only recommend this for those who have used a circular saw before.

Before you start cutting, mark out exactly where you want to cut and make sure the wood is securely clamped to prevent any movement. Use a sharp saw blade so you can cut through the material smoothly without forcing the saw, which can cause the cut to go off line.

Position yourself so you can clearly see the cutting line, and consider scribing the line first with a pencil or compass to help guide the saw and maintain a straight, accurate cut.

If you own a circular saw, you can use it for a variety of DIY projects, including these shared home office ideas, loft conversion storage ideas, and building a fence. Just make sure you are using the right blade.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

Plasterboard isn’t as strong as brick and plaster, so you need to ensure that when drilling into plasterboard, you’re doing it correctly. Get it wrong and you could be left with the contents of shelves, pictures or even a broken TV scattered across the floor.

But it's not just the failure of even the best plasterboard fixings that you need to think about. Before you even get that far, you need to check that there is nothing dangerous lurking behind walls. Dot and dab plasterboard and stud walls have space behind the board where electrics and plumbing run. However, don’t panic – with this guide, you’ll learn how to drill safely and effectively into plasterboard.

How to tell if a wall is plasterboard

Before drilling into a surface, the first step is to determine the material it consists of. Typically, it will be plaster or plasterboard. It’s essential to make the distinction, as drilling into plaster and plasterboard needs two very different approaches.

Mark Irving, Building expert at Build & Plumb, suggests a simple, tool-free approach: “Plasterboard is a non-load bearing wall that is made from a board material and supported by a wooden framework. Therefore, when knocked, plasterboard walls make a hollow sound.”

Kevin Keen, owner of Keen’s Buildings, suggests a couple of other options: “A quick check is the pushpin test: press a pin, and if it slips in easily, you are on plasterboard because it is softer than plaster.” He adds, “Tapping in a small thin screwdriver will often pop through and feel empty behind, whereas plaster over brick fights you the whole way.”

Recommended tools for drilling into plasterboard

Can I drill straight into plasterboard?

The simple answer is yes, but you will need to follow some simple steps as Nick Ee, product and training manager at BLACK+DECKER, shares, “While it’s safe to drill straight into plasterboard, there are a few sensible precautions to take to ensure safety as modern walls often have electrical cables or plumbing behind them.”

He adds, "I recommend using a stud, pipe and wire detector to help avoid any hidden hazards. These devices can quickly and accurately locate cables, pipes and studs, ensuring that you’re drilling in a safe zone.”

Ee adds a note of warning and suggests what you should avoid: “When drilling into plasterboard, you should never insert a screw directly into plasterboard without a fixing, as the board isn’t structurally strong enough to hold the weight on its own.”

4 tips for drilling into plasterboard

1. Add masking tape

Choosing the right drill bit helps create a clean hole that won’t crack the plasterboard, but in addition, Irving suggests the following: “It can be helpful to place a small strip of masking tape over the area you are drilling. This provides a compact and strong surface when drilling, so the plaster remains in place.”

2. Drill slowly

The speed you drill at is essential, shares Irving, “It’s important to drill slowly and not apply too much pressure to avoid cracks”. Keen adds, “Run the drill at low speed with a sharp bit and let the tool cut instead of forcing it.” Ee says, “The key is control and precision. I suggest using a cordless drill (like the BLACK+DECKER 18V combi drill from Amazon), which is ideal for drilling into plasterboard as it offers variable speed settings and good torque control.”

3. Choose the right drill bit

In reality, you can use whatever drill bit you have available, but this isn’t recommended. It can lead to a hole with rough edges, cracks in the plaster and blunt the drill bit. Irving says, “A multi-purpose drill bit is typically fine for drilling into plasterboard, as this is designed to drill into a range of different materials, from wood to plaster.” He warns, “However, it’s important to avoid using masonry drill bits at all costs, as they are too strong and will damage your plasterboard”.

Keen suggests, “Another option is to use a stepped bit so the entry stays neat and the exit does not blow out.” He adds, “Clear dust as you go to keep the bit biting cleanly. Patience and sharp tooling beat brute force every time.”

4. Drill the correct hole size

The right size hole is key when adding a fixing, as Keen shares, “Keep it as small as the fixing allows, usually 3 to 8 mm for standard anchors. Bigger holes weaken the sheet and demand spreader-type anchors to compensate. Size up only when the hardware demands it."

FAQs

What do I need to hang heavy objects on plasterboard?

TVs and shelves are two common objects hung on a wall. TVs weigh around 10-20kg, while a shelf with books can easily weigh 25kg, so you need a fixing that is capable of holding the weight. Irving says, “Toggle bolts are recommended for use in plasterboard walls if you’re looking to hang heavy objects, like TVs or bookshelves.”

He adds, “These provide a reliable and secure anchor as they have a spring-loaded toggle that expands behind the wall, with wide wings that distribute the weight evenly”.

But make sure to check the maximum load of the fixing. Toggle bolts are typically suitable for up to 20-30kg. Alternatively, use a more specialised fixing, such as the Bullfix TV Mounting Kit from B&Q. This claims to hold up 116kg, but there are caveats; it should still be fine for your TV.

Alternatively, Ee says, “The safest approach is to locate a stud with a stud finder and fix the item directly to the timber frame behind the plasterboard. This offers the strongest anchor point and can hold heavy items without damage.”

Can I use traditional Rawl plugs in plasterboard?

Traditional plaster walls with brick or block behind the plaster typically use Rawl plugs to hold any weight, such as TVs or shelves. But they are not a good choice for plasterboard. They simply don’t provide the grip, as Irving explains, “If you use a rawlplug in a plasterboard wall it will likely become loose over time.” Keen adds, “Those plugs rely on friction in solid masonry, not in a paper-faced core. Plasterboard cannot grip them tightly enough, which results in spinning plugs and damaged holes.”

Irving points out the simple alternative is to use specialist fixings: “It’s important to use specially designed plasterboard wall plugs, as these plugs provide added strength for a secure fixing”.

If you have plasterboard walls in your home, it's essential to know how to care for them and what you can do with them. If you have bare plasterboard in a bathroom, check out our Tiling onto plasterboard guide. If you have bare plasterboard anywhere else, make sure to read our Can you paint straight onto plasterboard guide. Finally, if you damage or have small holes, learn how to Fill holes in plasterboard with our guide.

Drilling into metal may seem intimidating, but with the right tools and techniques, it’s a job that DIY enthusiasts can tackle with ease. However, there are some subtle differences that you should be aware of to ensure your metal drilling adventure is successful.

Choosing the right drill is a great starting point. You can select from the best cordless drills or pick a more specialised drill for more accuracy. Then you need to choose the right drill bit for the metal you're drilling. Finally, it's all about the technique to ensure you end up with a clean hole. Here you’ll find all the answers you need.

Commonly drilled metals

Before drilling into metal, you need to consider the type of metal you are working with. Different metals have different properties. Leigh Start, MD at The Metal Store, explains the common options and their properties.

Steel

Steel is one of the most widely used materials in metal construction. Start shares, “It’s tough and durable, making it an excellent choice for many projects.” He adds, “Steel requires you to use drills that are designed for hard metals. Selecting the wrong drill can mean you’ll struggle to create holes and possibly damage your drill.”

Aluminium

This is one of the softest metal types found in construction. Start points out, “It’s a much easier metal to drill because of its lightweight and flexible nature.”

Brass/Copper

Both of these are soft metals, which makes them relatively easy to drill into. However, explains Start, “it can be tough to get even holes with these metals because they can grab at the drill bit.

Cast iron

This is a brittle metal, so you need to be careful when drilling and have the right bits, as Start explains, “You’ll need specialised bits (such as carbide or cobalt) and plenty of cutting fluid to reduce heat and friction.”

Try these tools for drilling into metal

Types of drills to use

When drilling into metal, it is essential to select the correct type of drill for the job, as Start shares, “The type of drill you choose is important to ensure you drill a hole in metal with precision and safety.”

For most DIY jobs, a hand drill is typically a good choice, according to Mark Irving, a Building expert at Build & Plumb. “A standard hand drill can be used for small jobs.” But if you need more power and accuracy, he says, “A drill press is ideal for drilling precise holes in metal as it offers a stable platform for drilling, ensuring accuracy and consistency in hole placement and size”.

Hand drill

If using a hand drill, a corded drill is often the preferred choice. Starts explains why, “They have a consistent power supply and are perfect for heavy-duty tasks. If you’re working on a project involving many holes or working with tough metals like steel – a corded drill would be your best choice.”

But you can use a cordless drill (like this DEWALT DCD796P1-GB XR Brushless Compact Lithium-Ion Combi Drill from Amazon). “Cordless drills are convenient and portable, but they won’t always offer the same level of power,” shares Start. “They are better suited for lightweight metals like aluminium or copper.”

Pillar drill

When greater stability and accuracy are required, a drill press or pillar drill is necessary. “A pillar drill provides precise and stable drilling,” shares Start. “They are capable of handling larger bits and tougher materials.” On the downside, they are not as portable and require more space.

Magnetic drill

Magnetic drills (like this Evolution Power Tools EVOMAG42 Magnetic Drill from Amazon) aren’t a typical choice for a DIYer as they are specialised pieces of equipment. Start reveals what they are good at: “Magnetic drills are excellent at drilling into large, stationary metal pieces. Their magnetic elements make them very stable.” But on the downside, he says, “Magnetic drills are expensive, heavy and much less portable than other drills.”

One final piece of advice from Start is to think about the power level of your drill: “Higher voltage means more power. If you’re working with tougher metals, you should choose a more high-powered drill.”

Drill bits for drilling metal

The right bit for drilling metal is key to success. Start says you need to consider the following:

High Speed Steel bits

Often abbreviated to HSS, these bits are made from a special type of steel that can withstand high temperatures. They can be used on various metals, ranging from mild steel to aluminium. These are durable and widely available, making them a good choice for most metalworking projects.

Cobalt bits

Made from an alloy of steel with a low percentage (5-8 per cent) of cobalt, which helps to increase their durability and heat resistance. Cobalt bits (like this Rennie Tool Company 4-10mm HSS Cobalt Drill Bit Set from Amazon) are an excellent choice for working with tough metals, such as cast iron or stainless steel.

Titanium-coated bits

Made from HSS with a titanium nitride coating, these bits are ideal for drilling jobs that require reduced friction.

Tips for drilling into metal for a clean finish

1. Before you start

Safety precautions are essential before you start drilling. Start says, “Consider your clothing. Remove or protect anything that could get caught in the drill and cause an accident, for example, loose clothing or long hair.

2. Use as many clamps as needed

Before you start drilling, the metal must be securely fastened. Start says, “Clamp your metal before you begin drilling.” He adds, “Fail to do this and you run the risk of your drill spinning the metal around and causing potential injuries to yourself.”

3. Create a start point

To ensure clean drill holes you can make a dimple to stop your drill bit from sliding around when you start drilling. You can use a punch like this Utoolmart Center Punch Kit from Amazon and a hammer to make the dimple before drilling.

4. Lubricate and go slow

Lubrication (like this Molyslip TAP PLUS Tapping Compound from Amazon) and speed are essential when drilling into metal. Irving says, “Before drilling, lubricating the drill bit using cutting fluid will prevent friction and lead to a cleaner finish, as well as extending the life of your drill bit."

Alongside lubrication, drilling slowly is recommended. “Drilling too fast into metal can compromise the quality of the hole and lead to untidy edges,” explains Irving. “Make sure that you drill at a slower speed to prevent overheating, especially for hard metals. This will ensure a cleaner finish.”

5. Drilling into harder metals

When drilling into harder metals or creating larger-sized holes, drilling a smaller pilot hole first will make things easier.

Creating a pilot hole can be more or less difficult depending on the thickness of the metal. It's usually advised to drill slower with thicker metals, while faster drill speeds are more appropriate for thinner sheet metals.

6. Deburr for a clean hole

Drilling a hole in metal will leave debris. You can clean up after drilling a hole in metal with something called a deburring tool. This wolfcraft Tool Steel Deburring Counter from Amazon is a good one to remove any rough or sharp edges.

Safety tips for drilling into metal

When drilling into metal, the proper precautions must be taken to ensure a successful drilling job and avoid injuries and accidents.

Goggle-style glasses like these DEWALT PROTECTOR Clear High Performance Lightweight Protective Safety Glasses from Amazon are essential to avoid small metal chippings flinging up and getting in your eyes. If you can find goggles that are anti-fog, anti-glare and scratch resistant, it's worth investing a little more for this option so you can see clearly at all times.

Irving suggests extra protection: “Safety gloves and appropriate clothing are also a good choice.” But it's not just safety gear that you need. He adds a few practical tips when drilling into metal. “Lubricate the drill bit before drilling metal; this will reduce friction and prevent overheating of the drill bit and metal. He adds, “After drilling, it's important to vacuum the metal shavings on your worktop to prevent cuts or splinters.”

FAQ

What does HSS mean on a drill bit?

Some drill bits are labelled as HSS. HSS stands for high-speed steel, a steel alloy containing elements such as tungsten, molybdenum, chromium, and vanadium. This specially hardened steel is strong and resistant to wear and high temperatures, enabling it to cut through metal without blunting or distorting.

Drilling into metal is a skill DIYers should have in their arsenal, along with drilling into tile and drilling into brick. Check out our types of drill guides to help you decide on what drill you need.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

When it's time to begin a new paint project, you probably reach for your roller tray along with your rollers and brushes. And why not? These are typically what you find at your local hardware store, and they do a decent job. But, there’s a better alternative that won’t break the bank, and once you start using them, you’ll wonder how you ever managed without.

It all started when I was talking with a painter and decorator friend of mine, just trying to pick up tips for my next paint project. That’s when they said I should try a paint scuttle when painting a room. Unsure what to buy, they suggested I look on Amazon, saying there was plenty of good stuff on there.

After reading the reviews, I chose the ProDec Plastic Paint Scuttle Bucket as my first option, and I have been using them ever since. As a DIYer, I found the 10-litre medium bucket to be an ideal fit for my nine-inch rollers, and it has the capacity to hold plenty of paint. However, it's not the only paint scuttle/kettle I use (more on this later), but it's a great starting point.

Try these recommendations for your next paint project

What is a paint scuttle?

If you’ve used a standard flat roller, you’re likely familiar with the common issues associated with it. Paint spray can easily shoot over the edge of the tray, depositing paint on surfaces where it shouldn’t be. You’ll find yourself refilling more often than you'd like. And it’s easy to accidentally spill paint, especially when you’re up a ladder, and even step on the tray if left on the floor.

A paint scuttle effectively addresses these issues. Its deeper design provides a larger capacity, so you spend less time refilling and more time painting. The raised edges on the inside help control the amount of paint on a roller, and the measurement markings ensure you know how much paint you’ve added. Useful for knowing how much paint you need for the next coat.

However, what I really like about the ProDec Plastic Paint Scuttle Bucket is the curved/rounded profile at the bottom of the scuttle. This ensures you don’t leave paint in those square edges you get in some other paint buckets. The curve of the roller fits neatly with the flow of the scuttle.

Where to use a paint scuttle and paint kettle

It's difficult to imagine life without a paint scuttle or kettle when I take on a new paint project. A scuttle is the perfect companion when painting a ceiling or wall. You can add enough paint for at least a first coat. Stick the scuttle on the floor, roll the roller up the side, and you'll be amazed how quickly your walls and ceiling are covered. Combine with an extension pole (like this Harris Seriously Good Aluminium Extension Pole from Amazon), and you won’t have to bend over or reach to paint those hard-to-reach areas.

When working on the details, such as corners or trim, a paint kettle is my go-to tool. They're smaller, lightweight and easier to hold in one hand. You can use it with a brush or a mini roller, or even keep both in your kettle at the same time. This makes sure you have control over what you are doing and allows you to concentrate on the task at hand.

Simply put, I wouldn’t be without either of these tools when painting, and if you haven’t had the pleasure of using a paint scuttle or kettle, I recommend getting one now. You won’t regret it.

A new paint scuttle or kettle is the perfect companion for painting. Discover how to utilise them effectively with our guides on painting a wall, painting skirting boards and painting a hallway. Enjoy.

As a DIY veteran, I know that having the right tools is essential to doing a good job. But like many of us, I don’t always have time to head down to the local hardware store to browse the aisles. The obvious convenience of Amazon means that I don’t need to leave the house when I need a new tool.

Coupled with next-day delivery, I can get what I want fast and be ready to tackle a project rather than wasting time trawling for tools. Here, I list the five tools that I use and reorder on a regular basis, ensuring I always have what I need.

1. Paintbrushes

I’m a big fan of Harris paintbrushes and have been using them for as long as I can remember. They offer a wide range of types, styles and sizes, something for every paint project.

Personally, I prefer paintbrushes with wooden handles. I simply like the tactile nature of them, and they just work beautifully in the hand. Harris Trade Brushes are a favourite of mine. They come in a variety of sizes, are well-made, and utilise fine-tipped synthetic filaments that provide a smooth flow when painting woodwork. They're ideal for painting skirting boards, door frames, architrave, and cutting in.

Similar in quality to the Trade brushes is the Ultimate range. Recently, I’ve been using Harris Ultimate Blade Paint Brushes when painting walls. Their tapered ends help ensure I get crisp, clean lines around sockets and along edges (without masking tape).

Both the Harris Trade and Ultimate brushes are ideal if you regularly tackle paint projects, but if you’re an occasional painter and decorator, the Harris Essentials range fits the bill, and with lower prices. These are still quality paintbrushes but don’t expect them to match the quality of the Trade or Ultimate brushes.

2. Paint rollers and trays

Paint rollers, trays and accessories are something I like to purchase online. As soon as I know I’ve got a paint project coming up, I’m straight on to Amazon ordering everything I need.

I’m a big fan of Harris rollers. The classic Seriously Good 9-inch roller set is a go-to for walls and ceilings thanks to its anti-splatter fabric, which helps keep the paint on the wall and not me. For gloss or satin paint on woodwork, I’ll invest in mini smooth foam rollers like this Harris Seriously Good Woodwork Mini Roller Set.

But I don’t exclusively use Harris when it comes to rollers. Part of the beauty of using Amazon is that you can shop around and take a punt on brands that you might not have used before. Another brand I use is ProDec, and I’ve recently been using their IceFusion rollers, which give a lovely smooth finish.

And it's not just rollers I get from Amazon; paint scuttles and liners (yes, I do use them sometimes) are also purchased online. I typically use a ProDec 10 or 15-Litre Plastic Paint Scuttle Bucket. They’re recyclable, robust and much better than using a standard flat tray.

3. Sanding discs

When painting doors, windows, architrave, stairs or any type of woodwork, sanding is a key part of the preparation. I have a random orbital sander and detail sander, so I’m always purchasing new sanding discs. I would say it makes sense to buy a selection of sandpaper grades and grits and buy in bulk.

Even high-quality sanding discs can quickly dull, especially when performing heavy-duty sanding. But whatever sanding project you’re working on, it's always good to have spares, so you can swap over when you need to. It helps ensure you get a job done quicker.

I don’t typically choose a brand name; instead, I select discs that are highly rated and competitively priced, and I purchase at least 20 at a time. Here I’ve selected a few that I’ve tried, used and bought again.

4. Masking tape

Every DIYer needs masking tape, whether it's to achieve crisp, clean paint lines on walls or around door frames, prevent paint spray from ruining the top of a skirting board, or to stick down dust sheets, you need a good one.

Blue painters tape is one of my favourites, and I’ve always used the popular ScotchBlue brand. It comes in three sizes: 25mm, 36mm, and 48mm. Personally, for me, it's the 36mm width. This gives me more versatility in terms of where it can be used and what it's used for, but all work well.

Frog Tape is another great choice, but it's typically slightly more expensive, but if there’s a good deal on, I’ll invest in a few rolls. And, if you’re looking for a budget tape, I’ve been using tesa Masking Tape from Amazon. This is great for covering paint on woodwork and general jobs.

5. Screwdriver bits

If you're a DIY enthusiast, it's almost certain that you own a cordless drill. If you’re like me, you’ll do a lot of work driving in new screws and removing old ones, and you can quickly blunt a screwdriver bit.

If you leave a screwdriver bit rounded off, it won’t function properly and can damage the screw head. As you drive in a screw, the bit will slip, so you won’t get a tight fit, making the screw more difficult to remove.

The best solution is to keep a range of screw bits ready for different jobs and swap when needed. Phillips is the most common choice, but ensure you select the bit specifically designed for the task at hand.

When that Amazon parcel drops on your doorstep, you can get started on your next DIY project. Get some help from the following guides to make good use of those tools and get the perfect finish when painting wooden doors, painting windows and sanding doors

As a busy, full-time working single mum, there's always one thing on my wishlist and that's the wish for more time. The juggle is real and I know I'm not alone in this problem too.

From decluttering hacks to cleaning tricks and gardening short cuts, there's a raft of options out there for buying back some tme. And, while some require little investment, others such as appliances don't always come cheap. But, if something can save me time, I'm going to consider it.

So, with time saving in mind, these are the top four items I currently have saved on my Amazon Prime wishlist. Take a look to see if they could suit you too.

1. Robot vacuum cleaner

I'm really not sure why I haven't yet invested in a robot vacuum cleaner. Every year I look at them and I know deep down it's the solution to the pet hair, crumbs and debris that land on my floor, despite vacuuming on a regular basis.

And while I've worked my way through cordless cleaners from Amazon such as the Dyson V8, and currently own the Shark Cordless Stick Vacuum (both available at Amazon), I've yet to splash out on a robot model. But, as technology advances, so does their capability and so maybe waiting hasn't all been a bad thing. Now, there are options for vacuuming and mopping in one, which is why this one may well make it out of my shopping bag when it's next on offer.

2. Robot window cleaner

I won't deny that cleaning windows brings some level of satisfaction at the sight of a smear-free surface. But, let's face it life is short and if your home features lots of architectural glazing, either your window cleaning bills will soon mount up, or your diary will soon be filled with endless days of chores and time you'll never get back.

The solution? A robot window cleaner. Yes, they're not cheap, but pick the right model that can be used inside and out, and you'll be able to pick the optimum time to ensure they're sparkling and you'll never have to worry about missing the window cleaner again.

3. Robot pet cam

Although I'm a little concerned this next product could turn out to be a time waster rather than a time saver, I'm convincing myself it will save me time in the long run. How? Because I won't sit there worrying about the dog if I'm out, or find myself spending unnecessary time coming home to check he's ok.

Perfect for homeowners who don't work from home, it could also double up as a secondary home security system, keeping an eye on your home, as well as your pet. Tempted? I am.

4. Best air fryer

Yes, I understand this next item is not always going to make it onto the must-have list of kitchen appliances when designing your new kitchen extension, but, there's no escaping the fact that according to everyone I know who has one, they save you time cooking.

And quite frankly, if it means I can spend less time in the kitchen, it's worth having. My son's been nagging me to get one for months. He may well find it's about to pay off – but don't let him know I said that.

Why isn't a robot lawnmower on your list I hear you ask? Quite simply because I don't have a garden. But if I did I woudn't be searching for the best petrol lawnmower. If I had a large garden, I'd be considering the tried and tested Segway Navimow 1500E, or in a smaller space, the LawnMaster OcuMow® would be a good option too as it doesn't need a boundary wire and can be app controlled too.

I'll confess to being intrigued by the concept of steam cleaning for a little while. Watching users blast dirt out of places that on the surface has a strange appeal. And, while I've tried other chemical free cleaning products, simply cleaning with hot water seems a little alien to me.

Could the Beldray 15-in1 Steam Cleaner really clean dirt without the help of even an eco-friendly cleaner? Would it tackle even tough marks such as limescale, and would I find the fact it was a corded appliance difficult when it came to cleaning in bathrooms?

Armed with the box, instructions and the many parts, I replaced some elements of my weekly clean with the Beldray 15-in1 Steam Cleaner, and having finally emerged from a cloud of steam, here's how I found the process.

What are the key features of the Beldray 15-in-1 Steam Cleaner?

Before we dive into how I found using the Beldray 15-in-1 Steam Cleaner, it will help to explain a little about its specification. Designed for use around the home, its main features are:

• Lightweight – 2kg
• 15-in-1 product that can be used on most surfaces and floors
• Rapid heat up - only 20 seconds until ready for use
• 550 ml watertank
• 16 mins of steam cleaning from a full tank
• Hand held or as floor cleaner with extension hozes
• Flexible hose for reaching awkward corners
• Variety of attachments
• 5m power cord
• 26.6 x 15 x 26.5 cm in size

Did the 15-in-1 design of the steam cleaner make it complicated to put together?

For some reason, I didn't associate the words 15-in-1 with a product that would have lots of different parts. I'd assumed that there would maybe be a few different nozzles, so when the box arrived, I was a little surprised to open it and find so many parts inside.

Add to that what felt like a slightly limited instruction manual, and my first impressions were that this could be a bit of a challenge for someone who wasn't that au fait with setting things up. Nonetheless, once I identified the different parts according to the instruction booklet, the rest of the set up was surprisingly simple.

You can simply use the steam cleaner as is, although adding the general nozzle means you can place a bit of distance between yourself and the steam which makes the experience more comfortable.

Once you've decided which fitting is right for the cleaning you want to do, it's a case of adding it securely to the end and turning it in the direction of the arrow (shown on the fitting) to make sure it's on tight. Then, it's time to add the water and let it heat up.

Filling the water tank is done by using the funnel and jug provided. Given it's a corded small appliance, it's not recommended you fill direct from the tap. It took around 4 full jugs to fill the Beldray 15-in-1 Steam Cleaner to the top and this needs to be done when the appliance is switched off.

A see-through section on the side of the main body of the cleaner clearly shows how much water is in there at any one point. You can refill as and when required as it only takes 20 seconds to heat up. A red light running around the top of the cleaner lights up to show when it's heating and then clears once it's ready.

Was the Beldray 15-in-1 steam cleaner easy to use and how did it perform?

My initial plan for testing the Beldray 15-in-1 Steam Cleaner was to test it in one or two locations in the bathroom, kitchen, on upholstery and on floors.

This changed a little – both for negative and positive reasons. The upholstery pad wasn't included in the box as it should have been – instead there were two floor mop covers, and secondly once I realised how powerful the steam cleaner was, I ended up using it in more areas than I had originally planned!

Did it work well when cleaning bathrooms?

My starting place was the bathroom. I have large crittal style shower screens and walk-in showers which collect limescale like there's no tomorrow. I used the window cleaner attachment which you slot over the upholstery cleaner and set to, in the hope it would remove the tough water marks.

Using the Beldary 15-in-1 steam cleaner on the shower screens was pretty easy. The long 5m cord meant I could plug it in in my bedroom when using it in the ensuite, and there's a plug outside the door of the family bathroom so access was simple.

In the ensuite, I made the mistake of using the fixed nozzle as opposed to the flexible hose which meant cleaning at the very bottom of the screen felt difficult. With the flexible hose however it was far easier to turn the squeegee style head in different directions.

The results? Although on first glance it appeared to clear the limescale quite well, it wasn't consistent across all of the screen, and the more stubborn deposits needed the help of some cleaning spray and a scrub with a microfibre cloth.

In the family bathroom I took a different approach and used the general nozzle to blast the shower screen before cleaning it my normal way with diluted Zoflora disinfectant from Amazon and a microfibre cloth. Compared to normal, this certainly felt like it helped the process and lifted some of the marks in advance.

In the remainder of the bathroom cleaning, I used it around the bathroom sealant on the shower tray, in grout lines, on the shower rail, inbuilt tiled recesses around the sink tap and then had a brainwave.

If you have males in the house, I'm hoping you'll relate (or maybe it's just the males in my house?), but if you don't feel free to read on as this point won't be relevant.

However, without going into too much detail, I often find the underneath of the toilet seat gets easily discoloured. Bleach removes the stains of course, but I wondered if steam could too?

I wasn't expecting a great result, but I added the brush tool to the end of the general nozzle and started to clean. To my surprise, it absolutely worked. I didn't take pictures as it didn't feel appropriate, but take my word that the underneath of the seat is now white again.

Mopping the bathroom floor once it was vacuumed was the final stage, and again, although I wasn't expecting huge results without any cleaning products, the bottom of the mop proved me wrong.

If anything, given the bathroom was only mopped a week ago and has had little use this week as one of my son's has been away, it may well have made it cleaner than my usual mop and bucket approach.

Where was it suitable for use in the kitchen?

As I have an open plan kitchen dining and living space, I was little more reluctant to use the steam cleaner too heavily in the kitchen, as having seen the amount of steam it produces, I didn't want to end up with a moisture heavy space.

I therefore decided to use it mainly in the corners and around the edge of kitchen worktops, to give the glass induction hob an extra cleaning blast, around taps and underneath the rim of the undercounter sink.

However, as with cleaning the bathroom, it struck me that there could be some additional uses for the steam cleaner that I'd not factored in. I'd also decided to deep clean my oven on Saturday night, meaning I had this job still to complete, along with the filter unit from my recirculating kitchen extractor fan being overdue a clean as well.

Once again, the steam cleaner proved its worth, helping to loosen the remaining food deposits from the oven racks, and blast easily through the grease build on on the extractor filter.

Did I like using the Beldray 15-in-1 cleaner and would I keep using it?

My main issue with the Beldray-15-in-1 cleaner? I cleaned for way longer than I normally would as I realised just how many other cleaning jobs I could tick off with it already set up and in use. It's not a complaint in the slightest as with regular use of the product, I am sure it would eventually cut down cleaning time in the long run.

It was slightly heavier to handle than I expected, although not uncomfortably so, and certainly wasn't harder to use on the floor than a standard mop.

A word of caution however. Please do read the warning leaflet that comes with it advising steam can still release from the unit even after you take your finger off the activation trigger. I forgot once or twice meaning I moved the unit and directed steam where it wasn't meant to go.

It didn't tackle the limescale in bathrooms quite as well as I'd hoped, but to be honest, I'm not surprised as it's never easy to shift. Other than that, it dealt with every other task I thew it at admirably.

Having been surprised at how many toxins cleaning chemicals were released into my home when I tested the Molekule Air Pro, it was also reassuring to get such a good clean only using water.

Would I continue using it to clean my home? Absolutely yes. Would I recommend it? I think it's worth the money for sure.

Next on the list to tackle are the grout lines on the bathroom floor tiles which are a little discoloured, and I'm interested to see how it will handle any mould that will undoubtedly appear on the grout lines in the shower. I'm also planning on getting hold of an upholstery pad to give my sofas a clean, which with two sons and a dog will certainly give it a run for its money.

Living in a 1640s home has its benefits, but one of them is definitely not its heat.

It is a home that has failed its EPC rating due to it being so poorly insulated.

So when I got my hands on the Thermal Master P2 Pro, which you can buy online on Amazon, the world’s smallest thermal camera, I was genuinely curious to see how it would perform in a house that predates central heating by a few hundred years and see where my home needs better insulation.

Easy to use, right out of the box

First things first – this thing is tiny. It connects straight to your phone (I’m using an iPhone 12 max pro), and once I downloaded the Thermal P2 app within minutes I was scanning different areas of my home.

There’s no separate charging needed, which is a massive bonus. Just plug it in, open the app and off you go.

How I tested my home for heat loss

I started with the obvious culprits: the Edwardian-era windows.

As suspected, the edge of the windows lit up like a bonfire on the thermal infrared heating display – deep reds and oranges showed exactly where heat was pouring out while cooler greens and blues showed where everything was working as it should. No surprises there, but it’s great having visual confirmation when deciding whether to install double glazing!

Even the conservatory, a much newer feature, was shown to be leaking heat, revealing many ways how I can insulate my home better.

Next, I checked the internal walls and newer installations like the modern front and back doors.

The newer doors were shown to be impressively efficient, staying close to the house’s internal temp of 21°C, showing very little leakage.

The P2 Pro let me toggle between Celsius and Fahrenheit easily. However, what impressed me most was how sensitive it was – the device can detect temperature differences as small as 0.04°C, and the 15x zoom meant I could hone in on very specific areas, like door seals and corners of window panes and take almost immediate temperature readings.

12 different colour palettes & numerous features

With 12 colour palettes to choose from and the ability to adjust emissivity, I found it easy to customise the display for different materials – stone, wood, metal, glass – all of which exist in glorious chaos in my home.

There’s even a DIY colour bar where you can set thresholds manually and swipe to highlight problem areas – handy for creating professional-style inspection reports, which the app generates on the fly.

If you want to identify certain points in your home you can click the 'point' feature to take readings of individual spots, or draw a line using the 'line' feature, like I did on my windows, to compare temperatures, or even use the 'frame' feature to draw a block to see how much heat is being lost in a larger area of your home.

Battery & performance

I was concerned it might drain my phone, but with such low power consumption (just 0.33W), I got two hours of inspection time without any issues, despite my phone being on less than 30% battery.

The 256×192 IR resolution is sharp, and the smart algorithm bumps it up visually to 512×384 for even clearer images.

You can also store all of your images on the app in a gallery to keep track of all of your house and where poor insulation is a problem.

Is it worth it?

The Thermal Master P2 Pro is an absolute gem for any homeowner, especially those of us living in Britain’s beautifully drafty older homes.

Whether you're chasing down draughts in a 17th-century wall or checking modern fittings for leaks, this tool is a game-changer.

At £280-ish ($349), it’s not exactly pocket change, but for what you get – including the portability, accuracy, and all the pro features packed into something the size of a biscuit – it’s well worth the investment.

If you’re even remotely into DIY, home maintenance, or just curious about where your heating bill is going, this thermal camera will quickly become your favourite gadget.

Shop the Thermal Master P2 Pro

President Donald Trump’s newly introduced tariffs on steel, aluminium and other core building materials are sending shockwaves through the UK homebuilding industry.

Experts are warning the tariffs are threatening to push up project costs, stall developments and undermine the government’s already revised housing targets.

The 10% blanket tariffs on UK imports, combined with a specific 25% tariff on steel and aluminium, have sparked concern that the cost of building homes in Britain could soon rise significantly, placing further pressure on small builders and renovators already facing mounting costs.

British steel and aluminium in the crosshairs

Although only 5% of UK steel and 6% of aluminium exports are sent directly to the US, the wider repercussions of these trade restrictions are starting to bite.

British Steel recently announced plans to shutter its last two blast furnaces, citing these tariffs as a driving force.

With steel and aluminium being critical components in structural builds, windows, cladding and roofing, developers are likely to face tough choices - absorb the costs, delay work, or pass them on to clients, which could in turn lead to higher house prices.

“Steel is the backbone of many homebuilding projects,” said Gareth Stace, Director General of UK Steel. “This move is a devastating blow. It threatens jobs, the balance of trade, and crucially, the homes we so badly need.”

Small builders face “major harm,” warns FMB

The Federation of Master Builders (FMB) has echoed the concerns, pointing to the impact on smaller construction firms that make up the majority of the UK’s residential build market.

Brian Berry, Chief Executive of the FMB, said: “The ongoing economic situation will be of great concern to businesses across the world, and construction is no exception. Around 67% of small builders have had to raise their prices due to rising material costs. More worryingly, 52% reported falling profits or outright losses - and around 8% say their business is now at risk of closure.”

Berry added that Trump’s tariffs could only deepen this crisis. “A prolonged period of economic uncertainty risks major harm to small builders, particularly with imported materials and the wider impact on markets like steel manufacturing. With the Chancellor placing the burden of economic recovery on housebuilders, it’s vital the Government offers real support to help rebuild Britain.”

The impact on the UK’s housing targets

The UK government has long aimed to meet the pressing need for new homes, especially in light of a growing population and housing affordability issues.

Labour’s target of 1.5 million new homes is a key part of its housing strategy, but the combination of rising material costs, supply chain disruptions, and an already strained workforce makes achieving this target increasingly difficult.

Rachel Reeves, in her Spring Statement, has already revised the target down to 1.3 million homes, acknowledging that the original goal is unlikely to be reached. The tariffs on key building materials such as steel and timber only exacerbate the problem, making it harder for developers to stay within budget and meet deadlines.

The path forward

The tariffs on steel and aluminium, combined with the skills shortage, are pushing the UK further from its housing target.

Developers are already grappling with higher material costs and lengthy delays, which could prevent them from building enough homes to address the UK’s housing crisis.

While the UK government has made efforts to address the skills gap by aiming to introduce 60,000 new construction workers, the sector needs to tackle much larger workforce shortages.

You can fill the holes left by shelves, wall cabinets and brackets but to get the best finish you need to know how to get Rawl plugs out of a wall. They can leave a raised surface that can be hard to hide and it will take more time and effort than simply removing and filling.

By their very nature Rawl plugs are there to make sure that you get a strong and secure hold when drilling into brick and other materials. This can make it difficult to remove them. Here we look at the different options to remove Rawl plugs and make sure that you don’t damage the surface where they exist.

How to get Rawl plugs out of a wall

1. Insert screw into Rawl plug

Mark Irving, online sales manager at Build & Plumb says, “Start by taking your screw and using your fingers to screw it into the opening of the Rawl plug.” Once the screw grips the Rawl plug it's time to get out your screwdriver, “Then using a screwdriver or drill gently screw the rest of the screw into the Rawl plug, making sure that it's not screwed all the way into the plug.”

He adds a tip to make the job easier, “It's a good idea to use a screw that is slightly bigger than the Rawl plug to allow it to grip onto the inside of the plug.”

2. Get the hammer out

With the screw firmly in place it's time to get out your hammer as Irving shares, “Now take a claw hammer and position the v shaped prongs over the section of screw that is sticking out of the wall." Once the hammer is in place he says, “Slowly pull back on the claw hammer to release the screw,” He adds, “You should notice as the screw comes further out the wall that the Rawl plug is released with it.”

He adds, “Continue to gently pull the claw hammer until the screw and Rawl plug are fully removed from the wall."

3. Stop damage

To prevent damage to the wall Irving says, “Pull the claw hammer very gently, as using too much force could result in pulling off chunks of plaster from the wall”. If you are struggling to get the Rawl plug out of the wall – and it’s causing damage to the wall – try using a piece of scrap material under the hammer. A thin piece of timber like hardboard, or plasterboard should do the job.

Get these tools to remove and hide Rawl plugs

Alternative options for removing Rawl plugs

A claw hammer is typically the first choice for removing a Rawl plug. But if you don’t have a hammer handy there is another option as Irving shares, “If you don’t have access to a claw hammer then you can use pliers to remove the Rawl plug. Simply, clamp down the pliers onto the screw and gently pull until the Rawl plug is released.”

However, he adds a word of warning, “This can be a more time consuming process than using a claw hammer and it may require more strength to grip the pliers, but it will be just as effective”.

Other hacks include using a corkscrew, which can be effective, but will depend on the size of the Rawl plug. Too small and you will struggle to get it out. Another option is to use a drill bit, and drill out the Rawl plug. Or you can push the Rawl plug further in (if possible) and cover with a wall filler.

FAQs

How do you remove plasterboard fixings?

The best plasterboard fixings can be difficult to remove, but still possible. Irving says, “Start by taking a sharp knife and gently scoring around the edge of the wall plug. This will ensure that the plasterboard isn’t attached to the edge of the wall plug, so that no chunks of plasterboard are dislodged when removing the wall anchor.”

He adds, “Then follow the same process by screwing a screw partially into the wall anchor and using pliers pull the screw and wall anchor out of the wall.”

If struggling to get the fixing out Irving says, “Cut off the head of the wall anchor and push the remaining wall anchor into the wall, filling the hole with wall putty to conceal the opening.”

If you have a metal plasterboard fixing like these Heavy Duty Metal PLASTERBOARD Cavity Wall FIXINGS from Amazon, Irving says, “Start by spraying a small amount of lubricant, like WD40, onto the metal.” He adds, “This will help to loosen the wall anchor and allow for easier removal. Then using needle-nose pliers pull the head of the wall anchor from the wall until it slides out.”

If the fixing is proving difficult to remove it's a better idea to push it into the wall. Irving shares how to do this. “Start by bending the head of the wall anchor until it comes off and then push the remaining anchor straight into the wall.” To finish, he adds, “Make sure to finish by sanding the surface of the plasterboard and filling the rest of the hole with wall putty.”

Rawl plugs are typically used to provide a secure and strong golf for attaching items to the walls. Check out the following guides where Rawl plugs will be called into action, how to hang a picture, how to replace a radiator and replace a shower screen.

If you want to know how to replace a bath panel you’ve come to the right place. It's a task that a DIYer can take on without worrying too much about what can go wrong. And, in this guide you’ll find expert advice to guide you along the way.

You’ll need a few basic tools to make sure that you get a great finish that matches up with your bathroom design ideas. Whether you are going for a simple plastic bath panel, or something more designer, this guide is here to help make sure you do it right.

Tools to replace a bath panel

Before you start to remove the old panel to fit the new make sure that you have all the tools you’ll need for the job nearby. Alex Woods, bathroom expert at Victorian Plumbing says you will need a screwdriver, tape measure (like this Komelon 5M Metric Self-Lock Tape Measure from Amazon), saw, sandpaper, caulk gun, silicone sealant (like this Everbuild FOREVERWH Forever White Sealant from Amazon), spirit level, drill and cleaning materials.

Try these tools to help replace a bath panel

4 steps to replace a bath panel

Replacing a bath panel is a job that's within the capabilities of most DIYers. Make it part of your bathroom design and make sure that you have your tools ready to hand.

1. Remove the bath panel

Start by removing the old panel. Kieren Connaghan from Connaghan Plumbing & Heating says, “Look along the edges of the panel for screws or clips holding it in place.”

He adds, “Use a screwdriver to remove any screws or gently unclip the panel. Be careful not to damage the surrounding bath frame."

2. Measure the panel

Before fitting the bath panel you will need to recheck measurements. Connaghan says, “Use a measuring tape to confirm the size of your old panel.” He adds, “Start by measuring the distance from the rim of your bath to the floor. This measurement will determine the height needed for your bath panel."

"Next, measure the length of your bath to determine the appropriate panel length.” Write down your measurements so you don’t forget and need to measure again.

3. Trim the panel

To get a precise fit you may need to trim the bath panel. Connaghan says, “Simply mark up the panel and use a hacksaw or suitable saw to carefully make the cuts.”. To finish the cut he adds, “Use fine grit sandpaper to smooth over any rough edges you've created."

4. Fit the bath panel

With the panel trimmed to size it's time to fit. First you need to align the panel, Connaghan says, “Position the new panel under the bath lip and against the bath frame or supports.”

Now check the fit. “Hold it up against the bath to test the fit. Then, use a spirit level to ensure that it's straight. Additionally, check if any adjustments need to be made around pipes or skirting boards, which may require you to cut the panel.

Now secure the panel. Connaghan says, “Attach the panel using screws or clips provided with the new panel. If no fittings are provided, use wood screws or self-tapping screws for wooden or plastic panels.”

Now add sealant where needed, typically along the bottom of the panel. To finish, check that the panel is secure and give the panel a clean.

Do all bath panels fit all baths?

Bath panels are not one size fits all, but there are typical sizes as Woods explains, “Not all bath panels fit all baths, as sizes and designs vary.” He adds, “The standard bath panel size is typically between 1500mm-1800mm for front panels, with heights ranging from 450mm-550mm.” Most panels can be trimmed to ensure a precise fit.

Connaghan adds, “Most manufacturers only sell the standard sizes which are 1500mm, 1600mm, 1700mm, 1800mm and 1900m.” He adds, “These sizes fit most installations and the standard 1700mm is the UK’s most common size.”

FAQs

Are bath panels fixed or removable?

Bath panels can be both. They can be screwed into a wooden frame to hold them in place. Alternatively, they can be fixed with a sealant for an invisible fix, so no screw heads are visible.

But this isn’t the only option as Woods shares, “Some panels can be attached using magnets, allowing for easy removal and installation without screws or clips.” He adds, “Sliding panels are also fairly common, but are typically seen in contemporary or higher-end designs, especially in bathrooms with bespoke layouts.”

How long does it take to fit a bath panel?

Fitting a bath panel isn’t a time-consuming project as Woods shares, “Replacing a bath panel shouldn’t take longer than two hours.” He adds, “Getting the job done in 30 minutes is doable, but it is dependent on the type of panel, any adjustments needed, and your experience.”

A wooden panel or tiled panel will typically take longer to install than a plastic panel which just needs to be trimmed to size to fit. Tiling a panel is like tiling a wall, so expect to add a good few hours onto your schedule.

Do you silicone around a bath panel?

This will depend on what type of panel and how it is fitted, but as a general rule you don't need to silicone a bath panel unlike sealing a bath. The bath panel should fit under the lip of the edge of the bath, so water will run down the panel to the floor. The only area you will need to seal will be the bottom of the bath panels where it meets the floor, so water doesn’t run under the bath.

However, if you have a bath panel that doesn’t sit under the edge of the bath it's a good idea to seal before replacing the bath panel.

Can I use MDF as a bath panel?

You can buy bath panels that are made from MDF, like these SunDaze Bath Panel Bathroom Moisture Resistant Wood MDF Front Bath Panels from B&Q, which are typically covered with a waterproof coating to stop water ingress damaging the bath panel.

If you want to make your own bespoke bath panels MDF and plywood are cost effective materials. But you will need to seal and paint to make sure that they are water resistant.

Replacing a bath panel can be a one-off or part of a whole bathroom makeover. If looking to go the whole way and remodel a bathroom you’ll need to know new bathroom costs. Check out our bathroom trends for inspiration.

Fitting a kitchen worktop is an essential part of installing a kitchen and what you choose can have a real impact on the finished look. And, there’s plenty to choose from to help get that dream kitchen. But, some are not as easy to install as others.

Laminate and solid wood kitchen worktops are easier to tackle than granite, quartz and marble. We recommend leaving stone worktops to the professionals. But if you’re handy with a power saw then fitting a wooden worktop will be a DIY task that you can tackle with the help of this guide.

Tools you’ll need for fitting a kitchen worktop

When fitting a kitchen worktop there are a whole number of tools that you will need to make sure that you get a clean neat finish. Key to success is a circular saw and jigsaw.

But you will also need a tape measure, drill, clamps like this IRWIN Quick-Grip Woodworking Clamps set from Amazon, screwdrivers, utility knife like this Amazon Basics Durable Folding Utility Knife, mallet, spanners and silicone sealant. And don’t forget your safety gear including goggles and dust masks like these Site P2 Valved Disposable dust masks from B&Q.

Try these tools for fitting a kitchen worktop

How to fit a kitchen worktop

1. Measure up and template

Before you fit a wooden kitchen worktop you will need to measure up. You'll need to factor in your desired overhang as well as making sure your joins are precise.

You don't want to change anything after taking your measurements either, as Homebuilding website editor Amy Willis explains. "I ended up three millimetres out with my quartz worktop measurements despite having templated it out with plywood. This was because we plastered one of the kitchen walls after measuring and ordering the worktop.

"This meant when the worktop was fitted, we had to cut into the newly plastered and painted wall to fit it onto the cabinets. Obviously if this had been a wooden worktop, we could have cut the worktop down to size but either way it was extra work that could have easily been avoided."

2. Cutting kitchen worktop

Place your wooden worktop upside down on a stable surface, for example on a couple of saw horses, like this Excel Steel Sawhorse Heavy Duty Twin Pack from Amazon.

You'll need to mark out your cutting lines with a pencil, making sure they are all the correct measurements. Ideally try to retain the straight edge of the worktop on one side to save cutting two sides.

"A circular saw for cutting the edge will give you the best chance of a straight line, as long as you use a long straight guide with it. I tend to use long levels for this, alongside clamps fastened down firmly. Make sure the blade lines up with the pencil drawn line before you start too," adds Amy Willis. "Never cut freehand as this is unlikely to be straight even with the steadiest of hands."

Smooth down the sawn lines afterwards with sandpaper or a sander.

3. Install kitchen worktop

First make sure that both your kitchen cabinets are level before placing the worktop on top of the cabinets.

"This is a two person job, don't attempt to do it alone as you'll risk scuffing the worktop against your walls or anything else in the way, which can cause damage," explains Willis. "I'd suggest putting your best edge on the outside, usually the long uncut side, which may already have a nice bevel cut into the edge to finish it off on the visible edge.

"We also used little plastic shims from Screwfix between the cabinets and underside of the worktop to ensure our worktop was level when we installed it. You just stuff them in like wedges where needed using a level on top of your worktop as a guide."

In terms of fixing down the worktop, you want to avoid any fixings being visible from the surface. "With wood, you can potentially secure from underneath, inside the cabinets using angled brackets, pre-drilling your screw holes and screws that are the appropriate length," explains Willis.

Use metal or plastic angled brackets like these Polypropylene (PP) Assembly joints from B&Q to attach the worktop to the cabinet. A common method is to use these at the back of the cabinets and use screws to attach through the front rail.

Make sure to use the right size screws so that they don't come through the top of the worktop. On drawer cabinets you typically screw through the front and back rails to attach the worktop.

"With our quartz worktop, we used silicone to fix it down and relied on the weight of the worktop to stop it moving. I was surprised how effective this was, and it hasn't shifted once in the last four years," adds Amy Willis.

How to join two worktops together

Kitchen worktops will often need to be joined together to get the perfect fit. These can be two straight lengths for long expanses of worktop or corner joins to continue around the kitchen.

There are typically two methods for joining worktops. Thomas Oldham, Co-founder of UK Construction Blog explains how to create almost invisible joins, “For straight joins, carve precise recesses with a router, apply waterproof adhesive, and insert bolts.” He adds, “A router is invaluable for neat bolt recesses when joining worktops.”

The bolt recesses are on the underside of the worktop and are often round. You will also need to cut a channel for the bolt when using joining bolts like these Worktop Connecting Jointing Bolts from B&Q. Make sure to get the depth right, don’t over do it.

Oldham shares how to do corners, “For corners, make sure to cut the mitres at 45 degrees. Once the adhesive is applied, finish the job carefully, keeping the edges neat, especially near sinks. The result will be a polished, professional-looking finish."

An alternative and simpler option, though not so professional-looking in my opinion, is to use a joining strip like this Black Worktop End Cap Joint Strip from B&Q. Make sure to get the right depth and cut to fit.

How to seal laminate kitchen worktop edges

There are typically two options for laminate worktops: laminate edging strips or a worktop end cap. An end cap like this GoodHome Nantua Silver effect Aluminium alloy Worktop end cap is easier to fit. Just cut to fit and screw into place.

To install an edging strip, apply adhesive, clamp into place, wipe off any excess adhesive and leave to dry. To finish, use a sharp blade to cut off excess and fine grade sandpaper.

FAQs

What is the easiest worktop to install?

Kitchen worktops come in a variety of guises with laminate, solid wood, marble and granite being the popular options. Wooden worktops are much easier to cut than stone and DIYers rarely have the correct tools or skills to cut stone, marble and granite.

These are expensive items so measuring and cutting needs to be done correctly, otherwise it could prove expensive. Matt Weatherill, head of installations, Wren Contracts shares, “Wren uses the latest cutting-edge, laser templating technology, which captures exact measurements, even in complex or irregularly shaped spaces, ensuring that the worktop fits perfectly the first time.”

Do worktops sit directly on kitchen cabinets?

Standard everyday kitchen worktops sit directly on top of kitchen cabinets. They provide support and stability and offer the opportunity for the worktop and cabinet to be attached to each other to ensure the worktop stays in place.

What is the standard height for kitchen worktops?

The standard height can vary but Weatherill points out the popular option, “When considering the height of your worktops, 90cm is the recommended height” But this is not set in stone, “However, this can be completely tailored to your needs. If you are in need of a more accessible height, Wren Kitchens can help ensure your kitchen is completely bespoke.”

Kitchen cabinets typically come with adjustable legs and these often have around 40-50mm of play.

How much overhang should a kitchen worktop have?

Kitchen worktops typically sit on top of kitchen cabinets and always have an overhang at the front. Oldham says, “Start by measuring the cabinets carefully, leaving about 20 to 30mm for an overhang. Mark the saw lines on the underside of the worktop to help avoid visible chips when cutting.

Weatherill reinforces the point, “Ensure that your worktop has an overhang of at least 10-30mm to avoid any spillages falling directly onto the face of the cabinets.”

Doors are typically 20mm thick, so 30mm overhang on a cabinet will leave you with 10mm overhang when doors are added.

A new worktop can help transform a kitchen. Check out our kitchen remodel ideas, 30 Clever kitchen ideas to Make Your Space Work Harder and bespoke kitchens guides for inspiration.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

When securing your home, finding a camera system that doesn’t require ongoing subscription fees can save you significant money over time.

Some of the best home security systems offer subscription-based models that provide advanced features, but cameras without subscriptions often match their performance while keeping your monthly expenses in check.

We spoke with Laura Crombie, content director at Homebuilding & Renovating, who shared her experience using security cameras that don't require subscriptions, highlighting their benefits for modern home security.

Why I love my subscription-free security camera

Laura explains how her security camera, the Eufy Security Video Doorbell E340 Dual Cameras, outperformed its cloud-dependent counterparts.

"As a family, we prioritised reliable security without the hassle of monthly fees," Laura explained. "The Eufy system has been perfect for our renovated home. It’s intuitive to set up, and the local storage gives us peace of mind knowing our footage is safe without extra expenses."

Laura also appreciated the flexibility of subscription-free options: "We’ve since added multiple Eufy cameras around the house, and managing them through one app is effortless. It's a cost-effective way to secure our home while enjoying premium features like person detection and AI-driven alerts."

The ability to monitor her home and interact with visitors remotely was a game-changer, she added. "The talkback feature is really clear," she said.

"Whether I’m upstairs or out running errands, I can communicate with whoever’s at the door directly through the app."

She also highlighted how the system provides peace of mind for her entire home. "We’ve since added four additional Eufy cameras – one for each side of the house. They’re all linked through the same app, which is so easy to use. It makes managing our home security effortless."

How the cameras compare to subscription models

Security cameras that don’t require subscriptions, like the Eufy Security Video Doorbell E340 Dual Cameras, offer robust features and local storage capabilities without tying users to monthly fees. The camera can be purchased as a one-off payment for around £145.

Meanwhile, subscription-based cameras such as the Ring Video Doorbell Pro 2 and Arlo Pro 4 Spotlight Camera typically cost just under £200 for the camera itself but also rely on cloud storage, which necessitates recurring payments to access recorded footage and advanced features. For instance, Ring’s basic subscription starts at approximately £3.49 per month, but premium plans can exceed £10 monthly.

While these subscription cameras provide perks such as extended cloud storage, excellent performance, professional monitoring and advanced analytics, the recurring cost for storing data can build up to a fair amount of money over time. Over a few years, these fees add up, making subscription-free cameras an attractive option for budget-conscious homeowners.

Best security cameras without subscriptions

1. Eufy E340 Security Video Doorbell

Key features:

• Dual cameras for face and package monitoring.
• 2K Full HD resolution.
• Local storage with Eufy HomeBase.
• AI-driven motion detection and facial recognition.

The Eufy Video Doorbell stands out for its dual-camera setup, which provides extra visibility at your doorstep, and its integrated HomeBase ensures that footage is stored securely without cloud storage costs.

2. Reolink Argus 3 Pro

Key features:

• 2K video resolution.
• Battery-powered and solar panel compatibility.
• Local storage via microSD card.
• Smart motion detection.

The Reolink Argus 3 Pro offers excellent flexibility with its solar-powered option and doesn’t require subscriptions for video storage. It’s perfect for outdoor monitoring without wiring complications.

3. Wyze Cam v3

Key features:

• 1080p video resolution.
• Night vision with colour.
• Local storage via microSD card.

Wyze Cam v3 is one of the most affordable options, delivering reliable performance for indoor and outdoor monitoring.

Are security cameras without subscriptions worth it?

For homeowners looking to balance performance and cost, security cameras without subscriptions offer a practical solution.

Devices like the Eufy Security Video Doorbell E340, and Reolink Argus 3 Pro deliver advanced features without locking users into monthly fees, making them ideal for long-term use.

While subscription-based cameras may suit those seeking cloud-based storage and advanced analytics, subscription-free models ensure affordability without compromising on security. For many, the peace of mind and financial savings make them the superior choice.

Subscription-free security cameras offer a smart, cost-effective solution for homeowners who want reliable security without the ongoing fees.

As shown by Laura’s experience with the Eufy Video Doorbell, these cameras can provide excellent performance with features like local storage, motion detection, and easy app integration, all without the need for monthly subscriptions.

For many homeowners, opting for a subscription-free system means saving money over time while still enjoying robust security. Whether you're looking to secure your front door or monitor your entire property, these systems prove that you don’t have to compromise on quality to avoid subscription costs.

I've lived on a Christmas tree farm all my life and this time of year is all about cutting and preparing trees so they are ready to make their festive appearance.

Woods Farm Christmas trees in Solihull, West Midlands, is one of the largest in the UK so we have a variety of Christmas tree types growing here, from Blue Spruce to Norway Spruce. This year I decided to pick out the perfect tree for my own home, which I self built this year, to explain how Christmas trees are prepared as well as adding a little festivity to my front room.

Cutting down your own Christmas tree is a particularly rewarding experience, especially with the right tools. My favourite tool for the job is a Husqvarna 455 Rancher chainsaw, which I put it to the test on a Blue Spruce to assess its power, precision and ease of use.

From felling the tree to cutting it to size, here’s how a Christmas tree is prepared for a home as well as explaining why this particular chainsaw is my preferred power saw for the task.

Choosing the tree

First thing to do was picking out a tree and I chose this Blue Spruce tree as its pines fall less, so would be suitable for my house.

When compared to other trees, such as the Nordmann fir or the traditional Norway Spruce, who's pines can fall off in less than a couple of weeks the Blue Spruce will last a month if kept in the right conditions, such as away from radiators.

Second was making sure my chainsaw, the Husqvarna 455 Rancher, which is available on Amazon, had a large enough bar to cut the tree down. Thankfully, with its 18-inch bar, this was more than enough to cut down pretty much any Christmas tree on the farm.

Third was making sure there was enough space around to make the tree fall in a safe direction.

Felling the Christmas tree

After choosing the tree I then cleared the low-hanging branches from the tree to make way for the felling cut.

The felling cut is a diagonal cut on the face of tree, which was made easy using the Husqvarna 455 Rancher with its 2.6 kW powered engine. The cut was made in seconds and left a clean wedge (part taken from the tree).

Using a petrol chainsaw over a battery one is preferential as these, particularly the 455 Rancher, due to its increased power output meaning battery-powered chainsaws, like the Husqvarna Accumulator, will struggle to cut through trees, particularly larger ones.

Then around the back of the tree I cut along the tree until it gives way and falls, again done in seconds.

Cutting to size

Cutting the Christmas tree down was no problem but the next job was cutting it to size.

Normally I would just cut down a smaller tree for my house but I wanted to test the Husqvarna's ability to cut through the tree to make split-able logs.

This again was a smooth process as the Husqvarna's 18-inch bar and 20 m/s cutting speed made work of it in no time.

The final touches were to cut off the larger branches at the bottom of the tree so it can easily be put into our Christmas tree stand. The only step now is to get it into the house, decorate and find some presents to put underneath it.

How the tree is prepared

As this tree would be going up in my house (about 50 yards away) I didn't need to wrap it up like you would normally buy them.

This is done by taking the trees from the field, where they would go into our processing barn where they are cleared of branches using a billhook or battery-powered chainsaw, wrapped up and put onto stumps or stands.

The ends of the trees are placed into a wood shaver so they can be thinned down and hammered into wooden blocks so they can stand up before being thrown into our netting machine ready for people to take home so they don't take up as much room in the car and so they are easy to tie to the roofs of cars.

Overall, the Husqvarna 455 Rancher proved to be a reliable and powerful tool, making quick work of every step involved in cutting down and preparing the Christmas tree.

Its combination of strength, precision and ease of handling ensures it’s well-suited for both occasional tasks like making logs and more demanding tasks like cutting down trees.

The 455 Rancher has earned its place as a top-tier chainsaw for holiday and year-round use, but if you'd rather save on the hassle you can always come down to Woods Farm or order a Christmas tree from us online where we can deliver them around the country.

Log burning stoves are a cosy and capable solution to keep you warm during the winter. However, on very cold days, or if you’re not getting enough heat out of your stove, then you might consider placing a stove fan on the stovetop to maximise its useful heat output.

The best stove fan is a compact, standalone device made to use on top of a stove (or, less commonly, to attach to the flue or stove door). Most models are about half a foot tall, consisting of a stand and revolving fan blades made from a conductive, heat-resistant material such as stainless steel, aluminium or brass.

The purpose of a stove fan is to take heated air from above your stove and push it outwards into the room. This makes good use of heat energy that would otherwise be wasted – you’ll feel the warmth of the heated air, rather than losing it via heat transfer into the surrounding walls and chimney.

Remarkably, stove fans don’t require batteries or a power supply to turn their blades, as they generate their own power thermoelectrically.

How does a stove fan work?

The air above a wood burning stove gets very hot – but we tend not to feel the benefit, as the heat is transferred into walls and other surfaces close to the stove.

Most stove fans are thermoelectric. When stood on top of a hot stove, they heat up, and a special component called a Peltier module delivers an electric current to the blades. The blades turn, draw in the hot air from above the log burning stove, and push it outwards.

“In a Peltier-type stove fan, heat travels up the fan’s conductive frame, making one side of the device hot and the other cool, due to its heat sink effect,” says Adele Brennan, Home Electricals Buyer at Domu Brands, which is the parent company of stove fan and homewards brand, VonHaus.

“This thermal difference creates a voltage which powers the blades. The fan takes in the cool air, heats it, and blows it out to warm your room.”

Some premium stove fans (such as this Warpfive model from Amazon) use an alternative mechanism known as a Stirling engine, which moves the fan blades by harnessing the effects of heating on gas within a chamber. Stirling engine stove fans usually have a glass chamber, so you can enjoy watching the action of their mechanism.

Whichever of the two stove fan types you choose, the accessory should make your room feel warmer if you thought you weren't getting enough heat out of your stove, as less of the heat from your wood burner will escape up the chimney.

Where to position a stove fan?

First, consider the direction of your stove fan, as this will determine how much heated air reaches you and escapes from the fireplace area.

“We’d recommend you put your stove fan on the stove and face it in the direction you want warmth to radiate,” says Brennan.

“The stove fan will start to work automatically and start heating your room right away.”

To limit the rate of heat loss through absorption, make sure the fan is facing away from any walls surrounding the stove.

According to Joanna Humphreys, fire and stove specialist at Direct Stoves, the placement of the fan on the stove is also key.

“Log burner fans are typically freestanding and therefore should be placed on top of the stove,” she says. “Optimum positioning is on the top of stove, at the back, so that it also pushes heat generated from the flue pipe into the room.”

One place you shouldn’t stand your stove fan is at the front of the stovetop. This area tends to be relatively cool, so you won’t get optimal performance from the fan.

An alternative type of stove fan, called a flue pipe fan, should be installed on the flue that rises from your stove. It’s generally advised to situate this type of fan near the bottom of the flue pipe, as that area gets particularly hot.

Meanwhile, if you have an inset or built-in stove, you’ll need to use a stove fan that comes with a vertical mounting kit, such as the Sirocco Plus on Amazon.

Shop these cheap stove fans

What is the optimum stove temperature for a stove fan?

Every stove fan has a minimum operating temperature required for its blades to spin, which will usually be reached quickly as the stove heats up.

More importantly, the fan will also have an optimal temperature range that produces the most benefit in terms of useful heating.

You should be able to find both specifications in the product description of any stove fan. Compare these details to your log burner’s operating temperature, before you choose a fan.

“Most stove fans need a starting temperature of at least 50°C in order for the blades to start spinning,” says Brennan. “However, in terms of optimal temperature overall, you should be looking at between 205 and 345°C.”

Does it matter what number of blades a stove fan has?

Most stove fans have somewhere between four and six fan blades, as is the case with this popular four-blade model from VonHaus on Amazon, which is pictured in the header image. You can also find models with even more blades – or just two or three.

As a rule, stove fans with a lower blade count tend to move air more powerfully, while a higher number of blades means the fan will probably work relatively gently.

“If you want a stronger breeze for the heat to circulate more around the room, a stove fan with fewer blades will be the best choice, however the fan is likely to be louder,” Brennan explains. “Stove fans with more blades tend to be quiet with a weaker breeze, so a fan with a high number of blades might be a good choice if you don’t need as much heat circulation.”

With all that said, while some stove fans are louder than others, the vast majority of these devices operate quietly – and far less noisily than the average electric cooling fan.

FAQs

What is the best stove fan material?

Stove fans are made from various materials, including aluminium, brass and stainless steel. All of these materials must conduct heat so that the fan can work thermoelectrically, and should resist heat damage to ensure the fan remains operational and looks presentable for a number of years.

“We recommend opting for a fan made from anodised aluminium, as this means the fan has been treated to enhance durability and increase resistance against corrosion,” says Brennan of Direct Stoves.

These fans are also able to operate from temperatures of only 50 degrees, which means they will kick into action quickly, even if your stove hasn’t yet reached optimum operating temperature.”

Does a stove fan use electricity?

Most stove fans do use electricity to move their fan blades – but they generate the power autonomously by converting heat into electric current.

So, unlike the vast majority of household electrical devices, stove fans do not require a power source such as batteries or a mains connection. Simply place the stove fan on top of a hot stove, and its Peltier component will transform the heat into power to turn the fan blades.

Do more blades mean more heat?

No. Typically, the more blades a stove fan has, the more gently the fan will blow. So, more blades actually means a lower volume of heated air is circulated around the room.

The upside to using a stove fan with a high number of blades is that the fan will likely run quieter than a comparable model that has fewer blades.

If you’re keen to maximise the useful heat output of your log burner, you might consider using a double stove fan – or two individual fans placed at opposite sides of the stove.

If you're still looking at which stove fan to buy, you can have a read of this review of a cheap stove fan that helped boost the heat output of a colleague's woodburner. Meanwhile, if you're also looking at how to maintain your log burner, it's worth looking at how to clean log burner glass as well.

As a keen DIYer and amateur carpenter I am regularly measuring to make sure I get the perfect cut and size, which can get extremely repetitive.

"Measure twice, cut once" is a mantra I've often used when doing my projects, so having a tool that can make this easier was a must-have.

So when I saw the REEKON Tomahawk professional digital laser tape measure I quickly realised how useful it could be, but I didn't expect it to be quite as useful as it turned out.

How does it work?

The T1 Tomahawk, which can be bought on Amazon for £229, works quite differently to your standard tape measure.

The dots underneath the tape tell the T1 the length it has been drawn out by and duel sensors inside the tape register any errors with the tape in case it becomes damaged in anyway.

Plus, if you're measuring in a tight space and need to include the tape measure body in your measurement, the T1 Tomahawk will automatically calculate the length of the tape measure into the measurement by clicking the 'toggle back' setting.

Capable of saving 500 measurements

Previously when measuring I would keep a notebook or scrap block of wood to keep track of what measurements I needed.

But the T1 Tomahawk removes that need with all my measurements being saved on the device itself. You then just click to see them on the digital display. So there's no more wondering how to read a tape measure or what that diamond on a tape measure means.

The T1 Tomahawk saves up to 500 measurements – plenty of capacity – meaning it is unlikely that the user will ever need to worry about keeping paper records of what's been measured.

What's also handy is that measurements can be taken in millimeters, centimeters, inches or feet as well as being able to easily convert them between different units of measurement on your display screen.

Additionally, with its Bluetooth connection you can easily connect the T1 to your phone by downloading the Reekon Tools Rock Jobsite app to keep your measurements stored elsewhere.

Laser function makes drawing lines easy

Another function of the T1 Tomahawk is the built-in green laser that makes aligning surfaces and marking straight lines simple.

If you're measuring a curved surface and want to know the length of it you can use the laser function to find the edge by lining it up with the laser.

The laser function points in the direction of the tape measure and once the T1 finds the center point for you (another handy function) you can hold the T1 in place and draw a line to show the cutting line down the centre.

This is a unique innovation not currently seen elsewhere in the market.

Large magnetic blade that makes measuring easier

One of the most practical features of the T1 tomahawk is it large, magnetic blade, capable of sticking to, or holding up objects.

The blade, or hook, is more than twice the size of other tape measures meaning it is easier to hold onto the ends of what I am sizing up.

Reekon will also replace these blades if they ever become damaged, although this is unlikely as the blades, as well as the entire tape measure, is extremely sturdy with rubber coating across most surfaces.

Holster makes storage simple

There's also a holster to carry the T1 Tomahawk around in, with a locking system to make sure it doesn't fall out easily.

The case is very much needed as this is a far heavier tape measure than any I've used, but this is understandable due to its many features and 25 foot tape length.

But if you don't want to use the case (often I wouldn't) then you can use the hook that's on the tape measure to easily store it or hang on your belt or pocket.

How does it compare to more traditional tape measures?

Standard tape measures with manual pulls tend to be cheaper, don't require batteries and are simpler to use, so why have I swapped these for the T1?

Simply put, the T1 Tomahawk does everything quicker and makes doing my projects faster and more precise as it reduces human error during measuring.

Plus its Bluetooth capability and e-paper display removes the headache of taking note of each measurement and I can be sure the accuracy is always within 0.5mm either way, more accurate than I could ever make it with a regular tape measure.

Additionally, standard tape measures typically have lengths around 5 metres, such as the TEFCOL Retractable Tape Measure, which is available on Amazon for £6.99, but the T1 Tomahawk comes in at 7.62 metres, so is larger than most tape measures on the market.

Final verdict

Switching to the Reekon T1 Tomahawk Digital Tape Measure has been a game-changer for me. Yes, it's on the pricey side, but the time and frustration it saves have already made up for the cost.

If you don't make regular measurements and aren't constantly doing DIY you may not see the full benefits of the T1 Tomahawk and a standard tape measure will do everything you need.

But if you're like me and you're constantly in the workshop then the T1 is well worth the purchase and will mean you'll never need to buy any other tape measure again as they simply cannot live up to the T1.

In summary, the REEKON T1 Tomahawk Digital Tape Measure has genuinely revolutionised the measuring experience for me.

While its higher price might deter casual users with more common tape measures like the Stanley tape measure, available for just £5.49 on Amazon, being more suitable for their needs, the precision, time-saving convenience, and advanced features it offers make it a powerful tool for those who frequently work on projects.

If you're looking to elevate your tool kit with a digital tape measure that combines technology and durability, the T1 Tomahawk is well worth the investment.

The Local Government Association (LGA) has voiced concerns over the government's proposed National Planning Policy Framework changes.

It warns that changes such as easing planning permission restrictions and re-introducing mandatory housing targets could lead to speculative, unplanned developments without sufficient infrastructure.

We look at the response in detail and outline other changes the LGA has proposed to help "build the homes our country needs".

What are the Government's planned changes to the NPPF?

Rachel Reeves, in her first speech as Chancellor of the Exchequer, outlined the government's homebuilding strategy to meet their target of 1.5 million homes.

Key measures included reinstating mandatory housing targets for local councils, planning reforms that would remove bureaucratic red tape and prioritise brownfield sites for development.

However, Reeves also introduced the concept of 'grey belt' land – neglected areas within green belts – as potential areas for building. Labour's approach aims to ensure faster planning approvals and provide the right housing mix while balancing local and national interests.

Council 'know their areas best' not central government, says LGA

In its National Planning Policy Framework (NPPF) consultation response the LGA has warned that the government's proposed housebuilding targets could lead to "speculative unplanned development, without the necessary infrastructure".

They emphasise that councils are best positioned to make local planning decisions, as they claim "councils and communities know their areas best and are well placed to make judgement decisions" advocating for the NPPF to remain flexible.

The LGA highlights that building new homes alone isn't enough for thriving communities; they need "appropriate levels of local and national infrastructure" to support public services, economic activity, and environmental conservation.

Cllr Adam Hug, Housing spokesperson for the LGA said:  “Our message to Government is simple: work with us and give us the tools to build the homes our country needs."

LGA claims 'planning permission is not a barrier to housebuilding'

Despite the LGA supporting the government's plans to build more homes they caution that "planning permission is not a barrier," as local authorities approve nearly nine out of ten applications despite limited resources.

The LGA also raises concerns about mandatory housebuilding targets, stressing that without proper infrastructure, these policies risk "centralising" decision making.

They claim this shift could undermine local authorities’ ability to address both local and national needs while maintaining flexibility in planning for sustainable development.

LGA urges restriction to permitted development rights

The LGA also urged the government to revoke "unfettered permitted development rights," criticising their allowance for creating homes without affordable housing contributions or ensuring decent standards.

The LGA argued that councils should be empowered to set their own planning fees to tackle growing resourcing issues in planning departments.

They emphasised that this flexibility, combined with measures like increasing council planners, would help address national staffing shortages and provide better value for taxpayers.

The consultation on the proposed NPPF changes ended on the September 24 but An announcement on when the changes will take place has not yet been decided.

Radiator valves are small but mighty and knowing how to fit a radiator valve can help save money and make sure that your heating system is running efficiently. It’s a little job that can make a big difference.

But why change a radiator valve? If your radiator is not heating up properly, it could be an issue with a valve. It may be leaking, which will lower efficiency and cause water damage. It may be old and you need a new radiator valve.

Gordon Chalk and Alan Houghton, managing directors at Next Level Underfloor Heating and Screed Solutions suggest, “If your valves are over 10 years old it’s worth replacing them as part of your annual heating system maintenance.”

Here you can find out how.

Try these tools to help fit a radiator valve

7 steps to fit a new radiator valve

Here Chalk and Houghton reveal the steps you need to take to fit a new radiator valve. Make sure you have your containers, towels and tools to hand.

1. Turn off heating system

Before you start, make sure your heating system is off and the radiators are cold. This will prevent burns and any pressure issues with the system.

2. Drain the radiator

Place a container or bucket under the bleed valve to catch the water. You’ll need to turn off the radiator’s valves (both lockshield and TRV if present) to isolate it from the rest of the system. Closing the valves will (isolate) stop water coming into the radiator. Once done, start draining the radiator by turning the bleed valve with a bleed key like this Solid Brass Radiator Bleed Key from Amazon.

3. Remove the old valve

Don’t forget to place your container and towels under the valve before you start to catch any water. Using an adjustable spanner, unscrew the union nut from the old valve to the radiator. You may need to use pliers or a wrench to hold the valve body steady while you loosen the nut.

Once the water stops coming out, put a cloth in the hole to stop any drips. Now open the valve i.e. the TRV, a little way and collect any water until the pressure drops and the water stops. Now undo the nut on the bottom and remove the valve.

4. Prepare the pipework

Once the old valve is removed, clean the pipework where the new valve will be attached. Apply some PTFE tape to the pipe fitting threads and a little joining compound on the inside ready to attach to the pipework and radiator.

5. Fit the new valve

Screw the new valve onto the pipework and secure it. Make sure the valve is in the right place and all connections are tightened to prevent leaks. Now reattach the union nut to the radiator and tighten, making sure it's secure.

Check both connections and make sure they are tight. Chalk and Houghton suggest, “If you’re upgrading to TRVs remember to fit them on the flow side of the radiator. Though some newer models can be fitted on both flow and return sides." Make sure to check.

6. Refill and bleed the radiator

Now turn the both valves back on and let the radiator fill. Once the radiator is full, turn the bleed valve open, but only slightly, with your bleed key to release any air and close when water starts to come out.

7. Test the system

Finally, turn your heating system back on and check the radiator for any leaks. Check the radiator heats evenly and the new valve is working.

FAQs

Can you fit a radiator valve yourself?

A competent DIYer with the right tools should have little problem fitting a new radiator valve, especially if it is only a single valve. There are a few steps that you need to follow (which you’ll find in this guide) to make sure that all goes well.

However, fitting multiple valves is a little more involved and if you are not confident tackling the task, it would be wise to get in a professional to do the job.

How long does it take to fit a radiator valve?

Fitting a single or set of radiator valves on a single radiator that doesn’t involve draining down your heating system shouldn’t take too long. As a rough guideline set aside an hour or two to do the job.

However, if you are replacing multiple radiator valves and you do need to drain down your heating system it can easily take half a day to a day depending on how many radiators are being changed.

How much do plumbers charge to change a radiator valve?

The cost to change a radiator valve will depend on a few factors including location and type of valve. But as a general guideline Chalk says, “On average for a single valve replacement plumbers in the UK charge between £75-£150.” This will typically include a call out charge, plus materials and labour.

But as you would expect more valves will cost more as Chalk continues, “For multiple valves – say 5-10 radiators – you could be looking at £300-£600 depending on labour costs and the job complexity.” He adds, “Thermostatic Radiator Valves (TRVs) are slightly more expensive to replace than lockshield valves as they have more functionality.”

Chalk and Houghton suggest when replacing multiple valves ask your plumber if they offer a discount for bulk replacements. Many will reduce the per valve price if you’re having several done at once.

Do you need to drain the heating system to change a radiator valve?

Yes and no. If you are changing the valves on a single radiator then there is typically no need to drain your heating system. One of the benefits of this is that you won’t be removing the inhibitors present in the system.

These help protect against corrosion and stop rust flowing through the system and slow down the buildup of limescale and sludge. Which in turn helps protect the system and prolong the life of the boiler and radiators.

If you are changing multiple valves on multiple radiators or replacing radiators – typically three or more – then it is advisable to drain down the heating system.

Can a leaking radiator valve be repaired? Or should it be replaced?

Whether you should repair or replace depends on why a radiator valve is leaking. You might be able to solve the problem by simply tightening the appropriate nut on the valve. If this doesn’t work you might just need a new olive like this Flomasta Brass Compression Olive pack from B&Q. They cost very little and are easy to replace.

If a tighten or a new olive doesn’t solve the problem, invest in a replacement as they are not expensive to replace, expect to pay around £5-£20.

New radiator valves will make your heating system more efficient and cost effective, so why not give them a makeover at the same time. Check out the best radiator paint and our How to paint behind a radiator guide to get the best finish. Alternatively, why not skip the painting and check out our 10 radiator cover ideas.

Pressure washers can be a handy tool for faster cleaning but there are some jobs they should never be used for, according to one DIY expert.

Claire Baglin, landscaping category manager for Toolstation, warns: “Incorrect use can lead to damaged surfaces and items that can be very costly to fix or replace. In a worst-case scenario, you could even cause serious injury”.

She has shared her top five tips for when even the best pressure washers should not be used, as well as when they are suitable and how to stay safe when operating one.

When shouldn't you use a pressure washer?

1. Painted surfaces – even if you want paint removed

Painted surfaces might accumulate dirt, moss, or other plant growth but Claire explains that using a pressure washer on painted surfaces can cause the paint to chip or peel, and in some cases, it might strip the paint off completely. 

Even if you need to remove paint, it's best to use sanding and scraping methods instead or use soapy water and a soft brush for a gentler cleaning method.

If stains remain and the green persists, Claire recommends applying a fresh coat of paint instead.

2. Brick and mortar

Claire advises that using power washers on brick and mortar can cause permanent damage.

As brick is porous and absorbs water it can lead to cracking as the brick dries out. The high pressure can also dislodge the mortar between bricks, weakening the structure as well as removing any paintwork from the bricks.

Using a dry brush should be sufficient to clean the brick but any use of water should be minimised.

3. Windows

Claire says the powerful water jet from a pressure washer can break window seals, leading to issues with dampness and condensation. 

There's also a risk of shattering the glass, which could result in an expensive replacement. Stick to gentler cleaning methods for windows.

4. Solar panels and outdoor lighting

Pressure washing can scratch the surface of solar panels, reducing their efficiency. The high-pressure water can also damage the frames and seals of both solar panels and outdoor lights, causing long-term damage. 

Claire recommends using a soft cloth and mild detergent for cleaning solar panels and other delicate surfaces.

It is also crucial you do not use a power washer near any outdoor electric sockets or electric equipment in your garden as this can be incredibly hazardous.

5. Roof tiles

Regular roof cleaning is essential to prevent moss and dirt build-up, which can damage tiled roofs and clog gutters, but you should avoid the temptation of using pressure washers on them.

Cleaning roof tiles with a pressure washer is risky not only because of the height but also due to the potential damage to the tiles, explains Claire. 

The intense water pressure can loosen and break tiles, making your roof vulnerable to leaks and other damage. If cleaning by hand is too difficult it is advisable to hire professionals for the job.

Shop pressure washers

When should I use a pressure washer?

1. Vehicles

Claire explains when cleaning cars and other vehicles using a pressure washer set to no more than 1,500 PSI with a 40-degree nozzle. The wider spray pattern is gentle enough to avoid damaging the paintwork or windows while effectively cleaning the surface.

2. Patios and paving

For cleaning patio slabs and paving slabs, a high-pressure setting of around 3,000 PSI is ideal, Claire says. Use a 10-15 degree nozzle to blast away built-up dirt and grime. Be cautious with the grout between the slabs, as high pressure can cause it to break away

3. Decking

It is recommended cleaning wooden decking with a low pressure of no more than 1,200 PSI and a 60-degree nozzle. This setting is strong enough to remove stubborn dirt and algae without damaging the wood. Avoid areas with chips or cracks to prevent further damage.

4. Outdoor furniture

For wooden outdoor furniture, she says set the pressure washer to 1,200 PSI with a 25-degree nozzle. For metal and plastic furniture, you can increase the pressure to 1,700 PSI. These settings will remove dirt and grime while preserving the integrity of the materials, according to Claire.

5. Driveways

Similar to paving slabs, use a high pressure of 3,000 PSI with a 10-15 degree spray nozzle for driveways. This will effectively remove dirt buildup and brighten the surface. Consider using a specialised cleaning hood to contain dirty water and debris, preventing a mess.

Safety tips

Knowing what not to use a pressure washer on is one thing but its also worth knowing how to stay safe when using one.

A pressure washer is a powerful tool that can cause property damage and physical harm if not used correctly. 

The high water force can deteriorate surfaces and fling small objects like stones and debris, leading to further damage. To ensure safe and effective use, Claire recommends the following precautions:

• Wear suitable clothing: You’re likely to get wet and dirty while using a pressure washer. Avoid open-toed shoes and shorts, as the water pressure can propel small items at high speeds. Safety goggles are essential to protect your eyes, and wearing waterproof trousers and jackets is highly recommended.
• Check the pressure beforehand: Always perform a test spray 2-3 feet away from your intended object before starting your task. This helps ensure that the pressure is appropriate and won’t damage the surface you’re cleaning.
• Read the instructions: Although it may seem obvious, it’s crucial to read the instructions for your specific pressure washer. No two models are the same, and while nozzle colours are typically coded by degree level, there is no universal standard. Familiarise yourself with your machine to use it safely and effectively.

Jigsaw vs circular saw: which one is right for me? There is no simple answer. Which one you need will depend very much on what DIY project you are working on, plus, how confident you are using a saw, whether that be one of the best circular saws or jigsaws, and what your budget is. 

Both saws can be used for a lot of similar DIY or home renovation projects, but there are subtle differences, which make them a better choice for specific types of jobs. Are you trimming down a kitchen worktop? Laying down decking? Whatever it is, it’s time to call on a power saw. Here we help you decide which one.  

Jigsaw vs circular saw

Choosing the right saw for a DIY project will only help you do a better job. Here we get a couple of experts to help you make the right choice. 

What DIY jobs is a jigsaw good for?

“For tasks requiring precise cutting or shaping a jigsaw is ideal,” reveals Matthew O’Grady, Director of Thomas Matthew Kitchens & Furniture, “You can use it to cut intricate patterns or curves from wood, metal, or plastic materials among others.”

It's the ideal choice for, “Custom shelving unit build-out, ornamental woodworking projects, or fitting new countertops in your kitchen projects,” shares O’Grady. “It is versatile and can be used to cut straight lines but it is best suited for more detailed and intricate jobs.”

And it is its versatility that makes it a real winner for DIYers. “When the project is in a tight spot, or when the cut can’t be done with other tools, a jigsaw is a great solution.” suggests Brandon Walker, construction manager at ASAP Restoration. 

What DIY jobs is a circular saw good for?

“A circular saw is good for jobs that involve making long and straight cuts,” shares O’Grady. “It performs excellently in quick cutting of thick pieces of wood such as when one needs to make a hole through plywood sheets or when fitting wood trims in framing lumber and cutting straight across wide boards.” 

Elsewhere, “A circular saw comes in handy in bigger construction projects or home remodelling works, like putting up your own deck or coming up with large-sized furniture units, “ continues O’Grady. 

“When it comes to rougher carpentry work and heavier-duty tasks, the circular saw always tops the list due to its speed and power.” Why? “It was designed to increase efficiency during the course of operations leading to faster, accurate trimming on larger materials.”

Try these saws on your next DIY project

Which is easier to use?

This isn’t that easy to quantify, both aren’t difficult to use and after a few uses they will become more familiar. It is more important that you use the most appropriate saw for the project you are working on. A message reinforced by O’Grady, “The ease of using the two depends on the type of work being done.”

He continues, “The beginner might have an easier time starting with a jigsaw as it is versatile and small enough to be handled comfortably.” Walker suggests that, “A circular saw is so easy to use that it is nearly a required tool for even starter carpenters just beginning their careers”. 

But as we have already mentioned, choose the right saw for the right job, as O'Grady says, “Whichever you choose has an intrinsic advantage, depending on your specific needs and level of comfort.”

One tip for any DIYer is to make sure that you read the user manual and follow any safety precautions. Also make sure to check out our How to use a circular saw guide to help ensure you get the most from a circular saw. 

FAQs

Do I need a jigsaw if I have a circular saw? 

If you tackle a lot of DIY projects then I suggest that you have both a jigsaw and a circular saw. And invest in a quality product that will last for years to come. 

However, if you are only an occasional DIYer or your projects aren’t going to involve heavy use of a jigsaw or circular saw, then you can invest in a budget or mid-range model. These typically won't have the same features and longevity of a top of the range model, but should still serve you well. 

Should I get a corded or cordless model? 

Both options have their pros and cons. A cordless model is more convenient as you won't need to worry about finding a power outlet to plug into and you can take it anywhere. Ideal if there isn’t a power outlet nearby. 

But on the downside is that you will need to recharge the battery regularly, and you will need a charger. This will add to the overall cost and cordless models are typically more expensive than corded models.

When looking for a bare tool – a cordless model with no battery or charger included – don't forget to factor in the cost of a charger and at least one battery. Ideally you want two fully charged batteries, so you can swap as soon as the current one needs replacing.

A corded model is typically cheaper and has the obvious bonus that you don’t need to remember to charge a battery – or invest in a charger. However, you will need to be near a power outlet to use a saw. The length of the cord on a saw typically means that you will need an extension lead like this STATUS 2 18m Socket Cable Reel from Amazon. 

Get your hands on one of the best circular saws on the market for your next DIY project. And find out how to cut laminate flooring and discover what saw TPI is and how many teeth you need on a blade. 

The Black + Decker BCD700S1K-GB combi-drill is a beginner-friendly drill, with a lithium-ion battery enabling its cordless operation.

Featuring basic drilling, a screwdriver mode with 10 torque settings, and a hammer drill mode for drilling into brick and other hard materials, the BCD700S1K-GB promises to do everything a casual DIYer might need it to do. 

What’s more, the drill comes at a staggeringly low price. Bundles of the BCD700S1K-GB plus a lithium-ion battery, charger and plastic carry case are currently listed for £59.99 at Amazon UK – and we’ve seen that price dip below £50 during sale periods.

The battery and charger can be used with other 18V cordless tools from the Black + Decker ‘POWERCONNECT’ range, which includes other DIY must-haves such as sanders and jigsaws.

On paper, the BCD700S1K-GB looks like the perfect purchase for newcomers to DIY – but as we all know, a low price and lots of features can sometimes come at a cost to quality and performance. 

So, to find out whether Black + Decker’s tool really is one of the best drills for beginners, I put it to the test around my home, which I’m busy renovating. With the drill’s full feature set in mind, I tested it by driving screws and drilling into wood, plaster and brick. Read on to find out what I thought of the drill’s performance and design.

Where to buy the Black + Decker BCD700S1K-GB combi drill

What's included

The BCD700S1K-GB comes with a good range of accessories – but not quite everything you need:

• BCD700S combi drill
• 1.5Ah 18V lithium-ion battery
• Battery charger
• Plastic carry case
• Double-headed screwdriver bit
• Instruction booklet

Only one drill bit is included: a double-headed screwdriver bit for turning cross-head (Phillips) and flat-head screws.

You’ll need to purchase additional bits for other tasks, such as masonry drill bits for hammer-drilling into brick, or wood bits for drilling into wood. Buying a basic Black + Decker drill bit and screwdriver set for £15 on Amazon will probably cover most of your requirements.

It's worth noting that the drill’s chuck also has a 10 mm capacity, so wider drill bits (such as 13 mm bits) will not fit.

Performance

I tested the BCD700S1K-GB by using it to carry out a selection of basic DIY tasks around the home, assessing all of its settings and features in the process.

1. Uninstalling old screws 

The BCD700S1K-GB proved really effective at removing old screws from wood and plaster, including screws that had been tightly installed. 

To get the best out of the BCD700S1K-GB’s screwdriving mode, I made use of its range of ten torque settings, which can produce turning force up to 40 Nm. 

Torque can easily be adjusted using the numbered adjustment collar on the barrel of the drill. I found that the higher torque settings provided the necessary turning force to uninstall stubborn, old screws, while the lower torque settings caused noticeably less vibration – so they’re kinder on the hand. Most screws required only a low torque setting of ‘2’ or ‘3’. 

The chuck kept a really tight, stable hold on the screwdriver bit during screwdriving.

2. Installing new screws

Fixing new screws into wood and/or Rawl plugs is the BCD700S1K-GB’s specialty. With its screwdriver bit fitted, the drill turns screws with great control, or with decent power, depending on which speed setting you’re using. 

The BCD700S1K-GB really excels at tightening screws up, when they’re almost fully installed. With its strong, secure chuck gripping the bit, the BCD700S1K-GB tightens screws fantastically well, achieving a level of tightness that some higher-priced drills can’t match. 

3. Drilling holes in wood or plaster

When I used the BCD700S1K-GB to drill through wood (or a softer material such as plaster), the drill proved pretty effective and very controlled. Some other drills can bore through wood faster, but Black + Decker’s combi will work quickly enough for most casual DIY users. 

The BCD700S1K-GB also proved great at countersinking – where a mushroom-shaped countersinking bit is used to create a depression in wood, allowing a screw or other fixing to be hidden with filler. 

In my testing, the drill countersunk wood very easily, and more quickly than some of its premium competitors. To get that good effect, I was using the BCD700S1K-GB on its maximum speed settings.

4. Hammer-drilling holes in brick

During my testing, the BCD700S1K-GB proved capable of drilling holes in brick – but only just. I found that the drill took a very long time to drill into hard, old brickwork even though it was fitted with an appropriate masonry drill bit.

If your property has very hard bricks, then I wouldn’t recommend using the BCD700S1K-GB to drill into them, as you’ll expend a lot more time and effort than you need to. However, if the building has softer bricks, then the BCD700S1K-GB’s hammer drill function might be up to the task. 

5. Battery performance 

Battery charging and runtime are key to cordless combi drill performance – so I rated these aspects of my experience with the BCD700S1K-GB while testing its drilling and screwdriving capabilities. 

You’ll need to charge this drill’s lithium-ion battery before use. It slots easily into the charger, which has an LED indicator that shows the battery’s current charge state: full, charging, broken, or paused due to incorrect operating temperature. 

I found that the battery charged slowly, taking just under three hours to reach its 1.5Ah capacity. This could cause delays for users who are tackling big projects with their combi drill – so if that sounds like you, be sure to charge in advance of DIY work, or purchase the BCD700S1K-GB with two 1.5Ah batteries (£88.95, Amazon) so that you can keep both charged, ready for lengthier tasks.   

On a more positive note, the drill’s 1.5Ah battery demonstrated good runtime during our testing, providing power long enough for me to complete a modest DIY project (re-fitting a loft hatch), without requiring a re-charge. The battery only ran out after longer-duration testing of the BCD700S1K-GB’s hammer-drilling. 

Ease of use

With the BCD700S1K-GB, you get all the basic features you’d expect of a modern combi drill in a simple-to-use, unfussy product. These include:

• a keyless chuck
• two speed settings
• forward and reverse drilling
• a drill bit holder
• variable speed trigger

I found the drill particularly easy to use, without any unusual mechanisms or gimmicky features to master. A simple twist of the adjustment collar lets you choose between operating modes: drill, hammer drill, and ten torque settings for screwdriving.

Rotational direction can be easily changed with the same hand you’re using to hold the drill, using the selectors on the sides of the drill – which is very useful when you’re holding a screw in the other hand. Meanwhile, the variable speed trigger gives you some control over the drill’s RPM, with roughly three speeds within each of the two gears (as far as I could tell). 

This is a really nice drill to hold, with a soft, rubbery handle that’s shaped ergonomically to fit the user’s fingers. It’s a light, compact tool, weighing just 0.9 kg (or 1.3 kg with the battery fitted). If you tend to find drills too heavy or unwieldy, you might find a comfortable companion in the BCD700S1K-GB.

Switching between drill bits requires you to turn the keyless chuck with one hand, while holding the barrel above it with the other. This isn’t the most convenient method for changing the bit, but crucially, it provides a secure, reliable grip on the drill bit.

If you’ve used a combi drill before, you’ll easily master the BCD700S1K-GB - and I believe this would be an accessible drill for beginners to use too, thanks to its simple design and lightweight build. 

Who should buy it?

There are no innovative features here that’ll surprise or delight experienced drill users - so power tool fanatics should look elsewhere. 

Similarly, users who are tackling a very big DIY project such as a home renovation or house extension will probably require a combi drill that has more power (particularly for hammer-drilling) and faster battery charging. 

With that said, for beginners or occasional DIYers, the BCD700S1K-GB could be ideal. This drill has all the basic features that provide real benefit to the average user, such as multiple torque levels and speed settings.

The basic design of the drill is great for beginners too. Its secure chuck (meaning fewer dropped drill bits), compact form, ergonomic handle and relatively low power and vibration make this a very accessible drill for users who are just getting to grips with their first power tools.

Add the BCD700S1K-GB’s very cheap price and the bundled-in battery, charger and carry case, and there you have a recipe for the perfect bargain cordless combi drill for beginners.

Final verdict

I’m happy to recommend the Black + Decker BCD700S1K-GB to beginner DIYers who are looking for a great first drill, or occasional users who need an effective tool to help around the house. 

Unlike certain other cordless drill bundles priced around the £60 mark, Black + Decker’s package is actually fit for purpose. Its performance is pretty good, especially when it comes to screwdriving and drilling into softer materials like wood and plaster. And while the drill’s battery charges slowly, you’ll get enough runtime out of it to complete a run-of-the-mill, beginner-friendly DIY task. 

If you’re a DIY fanatic, you might want to spoil yourself by buying a more premium product from our roundup of the best cordless drills. But for users who just want an affordable, accessible tool to get stuff done, the Black + Decker BCD700S1K-GB cordless combi drill would be a fine choice. 

About this review and the reviewer 

Pete is a freelance writer and reviewer from Leeds, with work published by titles including The Guardian, BBC Good Food, The Independent and the London Evening Standard. A keen DIYer and home renovator, Pete frequently contributes reviews and how-to guides to Homebuilding & Renovating. Pete tested the Black + Decker BCD700S1K-GB by using it to drive screws and drill into wood, plaster and brick during a loft hatch refitting project.  

Knowing how to use a circular saw may seem straightforward. But if you're new to the world of circular saws there’s plenty of subtle secrets and tips to make sure you get the best from it. And, to help make sure you don’t get any serious injuries that can cut your DIY career short.

A circular saw is undoubtedly one of the types of power saw DIYers should have in their tool collection. It’s useful for all sorts of home improvement projects where you need quick cuts of timber and board. Just remember don't push too hard and use a smooth motion.

Follow our expert tips, tricks and techniques to help you get the most out of a circular saw on your next DIY project.

How to use a circular saw 

1. Safety first

Circular saws need to be treated with caution, especially if you’re a novice when it comes to using one. Craig Parkins, owner of Parkins Bespoke Building has a few simple suggestions that will help ensure you can use a circular saw safely. “Have both hands on the saw when cutting and make sure the saw guard is on and working correctly.”  

2. Know your circular saw

Circular saws will differ from brand to brand, so it makes sense to quickly run through any safety features, discover where any adjusters are and find out how to change a blade. Give the manufacturer's handbook a read through – even if it's a skim read – to make sure you’ve not missed anything.  

3 circular saws ideal for DIY projects 

3. Choose the right blade

Circular saw blades come in many guises, so it's important that you, “Use the right blade for cutting timber or a board material.” explains Parkins. First you need to make sure that you have a blade that fits your circular saw. Note the blade diameter when looking for a new blade and also make sure that the centre hole (aka as the bore) is the right size. These are typically 10mm-30mm. 

Finally choose a type that matches the job you are working on. If cutting wood a general purpose wood saw blade is ideal for most jobs, though you can get specialist blades for different types of wood, i.e. plywood, and masonry. The more saw TPI or teeth a blade has, the smoother the cut.

4. Set blade depth correctly

“Have the saw depth 3mm deeper than the materials you're cutting.” recommends Parkins. Why? This will produce more efficient cutting and cleaner cuts and lessen the chances of an accident happening with the exposed blade.  

5. Deal with kickback

A dull, blunt or twisted circular saw blade can cause the saw to kickback when using it. Knots, splits, cracks in timber can also create kickback so check your timber before you start cutting. As soon as you feel kick back happening, let go of the trigger, relax your grip (but still hold the saw steady) and wait for the blade to come to a stop by itself. 

6. Replace your blade regularly

Not only will a blunt blade cause kickback it will offer a poor cut, meaning a poor finish. Not good if you're tackling a job that needs precision and a clean edge. Check your blade and do a test run before using, and replace if necessary. We suggest you always keep spare blades, ready for when needed.  

7. Beware of used timber

Be cautious when using used timber, “Try not to cut second hand timber that has had nails in it as you might hit the odd nail that might have been left in the timber”, recommends Parkins. “And definitely wear safety glasses or goggles if you are cutting second hand timber.” 

8. Keep a straight line

If you're cutting freehand there’s a good chance – especially if you're a novice – that you will stray from the line you’ve marked out. Practice definitely makes perfect, but until you get to that stage the simple thing to do is stop and go back to where the line is straight and start again. An alternative is to use a tool like the Kreg Circular Saw Guide from Amazon. 

9. Kiss and lift for accuracy

To help make sure that you are getting the right starting point start up the saw line up the blade and give a very light touch on the wood to make sure that you are lined up with a mark. If cutting an angle, pull back the saw slightly and lower the blade onto your mark to start the cut.  

10. Factor in blade width

Don't forget to factor in the width of your saw blade when cutting with a circular saw. Different teeth produce different width cuts. If you are looking to cut a piece of wood in half you won't get to two equal cuts unless you cut up the centre of any marked lines.  

11. Use a guide

Most circular saws come with a rip guide which is integrated in the base plate. Make sure to use this to get straight cuts on smaller cuts typically up to around 10cm. A DIY alternative is to clamp, nail or screw into the waste side of the wood a wooden baton the entire length of the cut. Line up before you secure the baton to ensure you get the right size cut.  

12. Stop the squeeze

Do not cut across the centre of a piece of timber spanned across two sawhorses. As you get towards the end of the cut the two parts will drop and squeeze the blade causing the saw to kick back. Move the timber so the cut is over the edge of one of the sawhorses, so it will drop naturally.  

13. Get an extension cord

If using a corded circular saw there’s a good chance that the cord won't be long enough to reach from the power outlet to the cutting surface. Invest in a cable reel extension like this SMJ Electrical15 Metre Reel Pro Cable Reel from Amazon. Make sure it is at least 15m and has two sockets. When using a circular saw make sure that the cable leads away from the saw. 

14. Best side down

The teeth on circular saw blades point upwards so when they spin they create a smoother cut on the underside of the wood, not the one you are looking at. So if you are cutting wood that has a face that will be displayed, place face down so you are looking at the back, or less desirable face.   

While every DIYer should have one of the best circular saws in their collection, it may or may not be the best saw for your latest project. Check out our types of saws guide to see what you might need. 

A DIY gadget that attaches to a person's lower leg has sold out in the UK after millions of people spotted the device on social media.

The Knee Seat by German construction material producers Probst garnered millions of hits on YouTube and other social media apps after a promo video showing how to use it when kneeling down to do a task was posted. 

We take a look at the curious contraption and why people are rushing to grab one to renovate their house.

Reduces pain caused by stress positions

The Knee Seat works by acting as an ergonomic support for both the knee and ankle that offers back, shoulder, and neck relief while kneeling or sitting. The idea is that it stops any pain caused by being in a stress position for too long – something that can be frequent during DIY work.

It is made from lightweight aluminum tubing and fitted with an extra thick knee pad and hooks. It can also support up to 120 kg (256 lbs) of weight.

Knee Seat encourages DIYers to use good posture

With padded knee covers the Knee Seat means you can bend down without placing strain on your knee caps. The padded seat to the back of the device also gives a soft surface to rest your gluteal muscles while positioning the hip and ankle at a comfortable angle to support the back, shoulders and neck.

The knee seat straps to the back of the knee and the front of the lower legs to keep it securely in place while working.

Designed for painting, tiling and gardening

The Knee Seat can help you perform a range of tasks without the risk of causing repetitive strain injuries.

From painting and cleaning, to laying bricks, tiles and wooden flooring or even gardening tasks such as weeding, the Knee Seat can help with any and all of these tasks and leave you without sore joints.

When will the Knee Seat be back in stock?

The Probst Knee Seat is currently out of stock in the UK due to high demand although suppliers Probst have stated new stock should be available from the middle of June. 

There are alternatives out there on Amazon however, including this similarknee seat by Donubiiu and this knee seat from MoCulot. You can buy two knee seat equivalents by Panruia on Amazon too.

If you have walls that are painted badly, knowing how to strip paint off walls properly can potentially help transform a room. 

Getting rid of the poor paint job is the first step, before looking at applying new paint correctly to give the room a professional finish.

Here we give you the low down on how to strip paint off walls, including the different techniques and tools you can use to give you a surface that is perfect for painting a room. 

How to strip paint off walls

The state of the old paint on a wall will determine which method will work best for stripping it off. Any of the following methods will get the job done, but here we help you choose the best option for your particular paint project. In most cases you will need to combine a couple of methods to get the best finish. 

1. Sanding 

This is one of the more commonly used methods. This is typically used to help smooth out old paint (in good condition) to get rid of dried runs, uneven build up of paint across a wall and provide good adhesion for the new paint.

You can use an electric sander like this BLACK+DECKER 55 W Detail Mouse Electric Sander from Amazon. Or, for a more manual approach use one of the best hand sanders for wood and walls. Try a sander head on an extension pole for hard to reach areas and ceilings. Use a fine sandpaper grade such as 180 grit.

This can be a messy job so make sure to wear a mask and attach a dust extraction bag if you have one, or connect your sander to a vacuum.

2. Use a scraper 

A scraper is a tool that can be used by itself or with any of the other paint stripping techniques in this guide. By itself it is ideal for removing peeling, flaking or bubbling paint. 

Use a multi purpose paint stripper tool like this suokoun Scraper Tool from Amazon or invest in a set of wallpaper scrapers if you are only stripping smaller areas of paint off a wall. Work the area in all directions and make sure to get rid of all loose paint. 

3. Chemical paint stripper 

Chemical paint strippers are typically used for more stubborn paint jobs such as walls covered with an oil-based paint i.e. gloss, or varnished wood walls rather than emulsioned walls. Combine a paint stripper like this Kling-Strip from Amazon with a heavy duty long-handled wallpaper scraper for a quicker job.

Paint stripper creates a lot of mess, so make sure to lay down dust sheets and wear a mask and gloves when removing the old paint to protect you from fumes and skin burns. 

4. Heat gun 

A heat gun is typically used for stripping paint from wood, but it can be used on plaster walls as well. Put the heat gun on a low heat and hold around 10 cm from the wall and wait for the paint to soften enough to scrape off as you go. Do not hold the gun in one place for too long as you can damage the plaster.  

5. Steamer 

If you are struggling to remove wall paint with just a scraper, don't get too forceful as you will start damaging the plaster. To make it easier to remove it typically needs to be softened. 

A wallpaper steamer like this BLACK+DECKER Wallpaper Steamer Stripper with Pad from Amazon is an effective tool. Set up the stripper and place the pad on the wall and leave for 30 seconds and test to see if the paint is soft enough. If not leave for longer and remove with a scraper. Ideally start at the top and work across and down the wall. Finish with a quick rub down with sandpaper.  

FAQs

Why remove paint from a wall? 

There are a few reasons why you should think about removing paint from a wall before applying a new coat. 

• Old paint - The previous paint may have been left for years and may even contain lead if really old. Even though it may look stable, stripping back to the wall and prepping properly will give a much better surface to paint on.
• Peeling, flaking, bubbling paint - If the paint is visually unappealing and has noticeable issues such peeling, flaking, bubbling, you will want to remove and start with a clean smooth surface before you paint.  
• Too many layers - The more layers of paint the more likely there is to be a problem. Each time a layer is added the more chance there is of it lifting off the surface. Plus, the build up of paint can emphasise previous poor paint jobs. 
• Dark walls - To add a light colour over a dark colour typically means that you need to add more layers to hide the original colour. Removing the dark colour will ensure you get a true colour in fewer coats saving time and money. 

What happens if you paint over old paint? 

This will depend on the condition of the walls and the paint. If the plaster on the walls is in good condition, you just need to prep a wall ready for painting and apply your paint.  

However, often the reason for stripping paint off a wall is because there is an underlying issue with the wall, for instance when painting a hallway. Typically this will be a damp issue which is causing the paint to flake, peel or bubble leaving an ugly surface that needs to be dealt with.

If you paint straight over an unprepped or poorly prepared wall the paint will not adhere as well to the wall and will eventually start to lift off the surface. So the simple solution is not to paint over old paint unless you have done your prep. 

After stripping paint off a wall you need to make sure that you are painting your walls, skirting boards and trim the right way to get a decent like new finish. 

Need to refresh your favourite furniture? Painting wood furniture can turn old tatty items into fresh, smart, contemporary objects of desire. A new coat of paint can transform a rarely used sideboard into a focal point, a chair into a functional thing of beauty and give a bookshelf a new lease of life.  

But you need to make sure that you are doing it right. Like most painting wood projects, preparation and paint are the key. Poor preparation and the wrong paint will soon see your newly painted furniture peel and chip and need a new coat of paint. Find out what you need to know to stop this happening. 

Painting wood furniture

There’s a lot of different types of wood furniture out there, from natural wood like pine to manufactured woods like MDF, but how do you paint them? Or can you? Michael Rolland, Managing Director at The Paint Shed reveals there’s a paint for every wood, you've just got to choose the right one. “It’s less about avoiding certain types of wooden furniture and more about the compatibility between the wood and the paint you have. For example, have you made sure that your wood paint is fit for use on interiors? And do you have the correct primer for your paint?"

He continues, “In terms of what shouldn’t be painted, it’s really up to you. Some people are very passionate that antique pieces should not be painted. However, if the correct preparations are done and quality paint is used, there is no reason that an antique up-cycle can’t look great.” 

Steps for painting wood furniture

1. Make your furniture hardware free 

If the furniture you are looking to paint has handles, knobs, or any other type of hardware you need to remove this to make sure that you don’t get paint on them. Get a screwdriver/Allen key, remove and make sure to store the parts in a container so you don't lose them.

Now remove any drawers and put them to one side. Ideally you want to remove doors and shelves – if your furniture has any – as this makes them easier to paint and get a good consistent finish on. 

2. Prepare a space to paint 

When painting furniture you need to clear a space to work in and lay down dust sheets like this 3 Pack Extra Large Plastic Dust Sheets for Decorating from Amazon. Ideally you want to be working inside in an area where there’s little disturbance, so no-one knocks into the furniture when drying or kicks up dust that can stick to your paint. In the summer months you can work outside if you have the space. 

3. Sand the surfaces 

The first step to paint, restore or upcycle your wood furniture is to get rid of old paint and/or prepare the surface. If needed start with sugar soap and a kitchen scrubber to clean the surface, leave to dry and sand. If not needed, head straight to the sanding wood stage. 

If there’s a lot of paint to remove, start with a medium sandpaper with a 60-100 grit. Follow this up with a fine sandpaper -180-220 grit is good. If your furniture has detail that is difficult to sand with sandpaper, use a paint stripper and/or wire wool to remove.  

4. Add a primer 

Make sure your surfaces are clean and dry. Apply your primer using a suitable brush and/or roller. Use a thin coat to help ensure a better finish. Leave to dry as recommended and sand with a fine sandpaper grade – 240 grit is good – wipe down with a damp cloth to get rid of dust. Add another coat if needed and repeat as the first coat.  

5. Paint your furniture 

When the primer is dry, apply thin coats of paint with a suitable brush or roller. If your furniture has detail, start by painting this first and then paint the larger, easier to paint areas. Leave the first coat to dry, rub down with a 240 grit sandpaper, wipe down and apply a second. Two coats should be enough, but if needed, add a third coat and leave to dry as recommended.

If using chalk or milk paint you can add a wax finish or even a varnish to help protect the paint and keep your furniture looking good for longer. 

FAQs

Should I prime wood furniture before painting? 

There is an argument that you don’t need to prime wood furniture if using a self priming paint, and your furniture is not going to get constant everyday use – like a bookshelf or sideboard. As long as your prep is done properly you won’t need a primer.

But, if painting bare wood on furniture that is going to get a lot of use – such as a chair – we recommend that you use a primer for bare wood. This also helps cover the wood so you can use less of the top coat. 

If you are just rubbing down a piece of previously painted furniture you don't need to use a primer. If painting over a dark colour with a light colour you can use an undercoat, but again not necessary if the paint is a self priming wood paint.

What is the best paint for wood furniture? 

There’s a lot of choice, depending what type of finish you are looking for and whether the paint you want is available in the colour you want. But whatever finish you want the paint still needs to be the right choice as Rolland reveals, “We’d always recommend a water-based, durable and hard-wearing quality paint for wooden furniture to ensure that the finished look is long-lasting. Farrow and Ball’s Dead Flat paint is ideal as it is both as it offers excellent coverage, is hard wearing and can be washed and wiped clean without damaging the colour or flat finish it creates. Apply the paint with a brush or roller and cover with a second coat after four hours of drying time for the most seamless finish.” 

But there are other choices as Rolland continues, “A good trade paint alternative would be Tikkurila Helmi 30 Paint, which is a durable furniture paint that is also ideal for painting small items like window frames, doors, kitchen cabinets, radiators and more.”

Other paints Homebuilding & Renovating recommend would be the Frenchic indoor furniture paint range or if looking for a high gloss finish try this Dulux Trade High Gloss from Amazon.

Is it better to paint wood furniture with a roller or brush? 

This depends very much on what type of furniture you are looking to paint. But a brush is typically your first choice, especially if your furniture has detail and few flat surfaces. Use a set of brushes like this Harris SGOOD 5BRUSH Set from Amazon, so you have brushes for small details, larger details and flat surfaces. If you are using chalk paint try this Professional Chalk and Wax Paint Brush 2PC Set from Amazon. 

But, it does depend on what type of finish you are hoping to achieve. If you are looking for a brush stroke free surface then you can use a mini roller. While a foam roller will give you the smoothest finish, it will still leave a faint texture. For a smooth factory-like finish you will need to use a spray gun. 

If painting MDF furniture follow our How to Paint MDF, Sanding MDF and Best MDF Paint guides to help you get the best finish possible.