Any serious DIYer needs a jigsaw in their power tool collection. It's a multi-talented piece of kit that can cut wood, worktops, plastic and metal with the right blade, and its real talent lies in cutting curves and shapes that aren't straight.

Effectively, there is no other saw that can do what a jigsaw can do. Its versatility makes it one of the best types of power saw and an essential item for anyone looking to renovate or update their home.

Here, I put the DeWalt DCS331N XR cordless jigsaw through its paces to see just how good it is, and help you decide if it's the tool for you.

Specs and features

• Motor: Brushed
• Weight: 2.2kg (bare tool) 2.8kg (with battery)
• Stroke rate: 0-3,000 spm
• Stroke Length: 26mm
• Bevel angles: 0°, 15°, 30°, and 45°
• Batteries: 2 x 4.0Ah DeWALT XR batteries
• Charger: 1 x 12v 4A XR LI-ION charger
• Max cutting depth: Wood -135mm / Aluminium - 25mm / Steel - 10mm
• Warranty: 3 years
• Features: Lever-action keyless blade change, adjustable dust blower, multi-position pendulum action, variable speed trigger, lock switch, removable shoe cover

Where to buy

Body only – view at Toolstation

Body and toolbox - view at Amazon

Body and blades - view at Toolden

UNBOXING & FIRST IMPRESSIONS

DeWalt is a big name in the world of power tools, so I was expecting big things from the DeWalt DCS331N XR cordless jigsaw. First impressions count, and the DeWalt made a good one. The DCS331N came in a sturdy, hard plastic case emblazoned with DeWALT in bright yellow brand colour, with smart metal latches to keep it closed on the move.

With no packaging to worry about, I cracked open the case and looked inside. Neatly laid out were the jigsaw, a decent-sized charger, two 4.0Ah XR batteries (one installed on the jigsaw and one packaged in plastic), and an attachable dust blower. All held in place thanks to the moulded inserts.

While everything was in place to unleash the beast, one key element was missing. No blades. And let's be honest, a saw with no blades…well, you know what I'm saying. DeWalt offers a wide range of jigsaw blades, so it would have been good to see a few branded blades in the box. For context, I bought this 10-piece set of Erbauer Multi-Material Jigsaw Blades from Screwfix to test out the jigsaw. The set includes a combination of 75mm and 52mm blades suitable for metal, wood and plastic.

The unit was solid, well-built, and well-balanced, but it wasn't lightweight, with the bare tool weighing 2.2kg, slightly heavier than average. However, for me this reinforces the quality you are getting. I like the battery placement on the back of the handle as well which is nice and easy to use.

The handle fitted neatly into my palm and the soft rubber grip gave me a sense of security. Sitting next to my thumb was a lock button and a variable-speed trigger (more on this later). This meant there was no speed dial. If this is something you can't live without, you could upgrade to the DeWalt DCS334N (available from B&Q) for a little more. It's worth mentioning that the DCS334N has a brushless motor, whereas the DCS331N has a brushed motor. A brushless motor is typically more durable and energy efficient.

There are plenty of other features to contend with though. The lever blade change looked a breeze to use; there was an easy-to-attach dust blower (no bag though), a quick-to-remove shoe cover, a bevel lever for predetermined angles, and an orbital action lever.

SETTING UP

Remember, when using a cordless tool, the smart and safe thing to do is add the attachment – in this case a blade – before the battery. I of course remembered to heed my own advice and did just that.

To test, I added the 52mm and 75mm blades I had bought, and loved the way that the blades slid into the holder. All you need to do is pull up the metal lever on the front of the tool, slide in the blade and release. Quick and easy. Repeat, give the jigsaw a wiggle and the blade should fall out. It doesn't get much better than this.

With the blade ready to go, it was time to slip the battery in. Its positioning made it really simple, and it didn't affect the balance. There's more you can do depending on the job being tackled. I left the anti-scratch shoe cover on, but this means you get about 3mm less depth on the blade. Finally, I attached the dust blower and was ready to go.

PERFORMANCE

As the DCS331N doesn't come with any blades, I used the Erbauer blades I'd purchased for testing it. It's worth pointing out that the blades you use can affect the cut and finish. Cheap blades rarely last long, while higher-quality blades typically deliver better cuts. The Erbauer blades had good reviews, so I was hoping they would be up to the task.

To start, I decided to go with common cutting tasks: straight, curved and angled cuts on 18mm plywood. The saw (and blade) breezed through the plywood for all cuts, leaving a neat, clean finish. Little vibration and no pushback. Releasing the easy-to-use bevel lever brings the bevel angles into play. You can choose between 0 (the default), 15, 30 and 45 degrees. A dull click and etched angles on the shoe plate help ensure accuracy.

For my safety and ease, I pushed the trigger lock into place with my thumb, rather than removing the battery every time I needed to adjust the jigsaw.

Each angle was accurate, according to my old-school protractor, combination square and speed square. Cutting the 45-degree angle was more challenging than the other angles, but still pretty straightforward.

To help with cuts, the DeWalt offers a three-position orbital action lever. I unusually stick with zero (default) for most cuts. Position 3 is good for quicker, more aggressive cuts, but as you might expect, the cut isn't as smooth or clean. Position 1 or 2 sits somewhere in between.

Elsewhere, there is a dust blower controller that works with the easy-to-attach dust blower. I tried this in various positions and didn’t notice much difference while working outside. If indoors (especially), you can attach a vacuum attachment to the dust blower to remove much of the dust produced.

To continue testing, I cut through 12mm MDF, similar-sized hardwood shelves, trimmed up my laminate worktop, shaped some old plasterboard to fit a small piece of ceiling that needed replacing, and cut plastic waste pipe and some laminate flooring that needed shaping.

The DeWalt DCS331N XR cordless jigsaw didn’t struggle at any point, unless you count the period at the end of the battery runtime. But, a quick changeover and it was back to normal. The variable-speed trigger gives good control over blade speed, but in reality there are only two speeds: full on and half speed; anything in between is hard to control. However, this will have little effect on most DIY projects.

BATTERY LIFE

Owning a cordless tool means the battery plays a major part in its working life. Ideally, no DIYer wants slow charging times or short runtimes. Thankfully, the DeWALT comes with two 4.0 Ah batteries and a powerful 4A charger. The batteries are part of DeWalt’s premium XR (eXtreme Runtime) range. According to DeWALT, "This is our claim that these batteries last longer than our non-XR versions. They are the higher amp hour batteries and have a larger fuel tank." So it seems they are built to last; time will tell.

Both batteries come partially charged (as they should be), according to the 3-LED indicator on the battery. So that did mean I could use both straight away. To test, I used the first battery until it ran out, then fully charged it for a more thorough test. While using the fully charged battery, I powered up the spare to full capacity, ready to be called into action.

The charger is a simple single-battery affair with a couple of hard-to-miss lights next to the battery, and below, a user-friendly usage chart. The lights represent battery charging progress, which I really liked. When the smaller light starts flashing, you know it won't be long before the battery is fully charged. When it switched to solid red, the battery is ready to go.

A (very) small point, but I would have liked to see it switch to green. If the battery is too hot or cold, a yellow light will also come on as a warning. It didn't happen for me, but is useful to know.

The supplied 4.0Ah battery was quoted as taking 60 minutes to charge on the manual. So how long did it take to charge? Around 60 minutes, which, while not super fast, is very reasonable and obviously what I expected. The second battery charging time, as you might expect, matched the first very closely.

Now to the last and important part. How long does the battery last? This is based on a variety of tasks and, obviously, not on continued use. But around 40-45 minutes seemed to be the average runtime before the battery started to falter. Which I would say is definitely better than average.

FINAL VERDICT

If you are looking for a step-up in quality but don't want to spend all your budget, then the DeWalt DCS331N XR cordless jigsaw provides a happy balance. While it would be considered a budget model by DeWalt standards, you are still getting a durable, hard-working jigsaw with a set of useful features to tackle any DIY project.

Ideally, you want to buy the DeWalt DCS331N XR cordless jigsaw as a set with the battery and charger. However, if you can't find the set anywhere, you'll need to add the cost of a charger and battery.

The DeWalt 18V XR Charger 4 Amp and a DeWalt XR 18V Battery 4.0Ah (both from Toolstation) will double the cost. However, you will be investing in a top-quality jigsaw that will be with you for years.

TikTok is full of tempting quick DIY fixes, short sound bites, time-saving tricks, hacks and shortcuts. Everyone wants to save money, and why not? But with the average video lasting around 60 seconds, how much information can really be crammed into this short space of time that took a tradesperson years to learn?

Something simple might work, but for any serious DIY tasks, short-form video simply skips over too many of the important parts. And what about credibility? What makes them an expert? You really need to pick and choose what you watch before diving in.

There’s plenty of DIY tips on social media in general for home renovations that I think should be consigned to the bin. Here are a few of my personal pet hates, backed-up by others in the know.

1. Sock for painting spindles

I’ve seen this DIY advice/hack not just on TikTok, but across other platforms as well. Personally, I’m not a fan. It seems like a smart idea, but it definitely doesn't do a better job than a decent paintbrush or mini roller (for flat surfaces). I've tried it, and I won't ever be trying it again. It's no quicker, creates a mess, and the finish is no better.

Lucy Steele, senior brand manager and resident colour expert at Valspar Paint, agrees. “Socks absorb far more paint than a brush and releases it much less evenly, so you often end up using significantly more paint than you actually need.

“Not only does this create more mess," she confirms, "but it can also mean buying extra paint to finish the job, making what seems like a money-saving hack more expensive in the long run."

A sock doesn't give as much control over application either. “A sock tends to deposit paint in patches, and can push excess paint into grooves and decorative details," warns Lucy, which can easily lead to paint runs and a streaky finish.

Some might disagree, but I say avoid. Get a small trim brush such as this Harris Trade Fine Tip Emulsion & Gloss Paint Brush from Amazon instead and take your time. "Two light coats with a brush will always produce a smoother, more durable finish,” confirms Lucy.

On the other hand, one DIY trick that does seem to work for the Homebuilding & Renovating team is a tanning mitt. Brand director, Laura Crombie swears by this for painting fiddly areas, if want to try something else other than a paintbrush or roller.

Shop these products to help get your DIY right

2. Safety last rather than safety first

Safety gear often seems to be an afterthought when tackling DIY tasks for a lot of TikTokers. Not sure why; I've seen people working with angle grinders, sparks everywhere. I've seen people trying to break up concrete with power tools. Wearing goggles? Of course not. At the most they may be wearing gloves.

Paul McFadyen, chairman and resident metals specialist at Metals4U, reinforces why this is never a good idea. "Angle grinders can be incredibly useful tools for renovation projects, but they need to be handled with extreme care, and often on TikTok we see people encouraging bad and extremely dangerous practices.

“If a disc catches or shatters while cutting, fragments can be projected at high speed, potentially causing serious injury," he warns.

"Before starting any job, make sure you're using the correct disc for the material, inspect it for signs of damage, wear appropriate PPE including gloves, eye, and hearing protection, and only take on work you feel confident carrying out safely," says Paul.

3. Painting worktops is false economy

A quick and cheap refresh is very tempting. What you'll typically see on TikTok are before-and-after shots, not what it looks like 12 months down the line. Painting worktops is a short-term solution, even if done well. It's something you can do if selling your house and need an instant refresh, but it won't offer you a long-term solution.

For a start, laminate worktops are designed to be hard-wearing, so paint doesn't bond that well. Even if you are careful and rarely put hot pans on the surface, it will need regular cleaning. Kieran Nagle, a DIY expert on Airtasker, backs this up.

"Just using a kitchen day-to-day means paint can chip quite quickly. Those little chips and cracks can collect dirt and bacteria, which isn’t ideal on a surface where you're preparing food.

“However, if you really want to paint them, make sure you're using a product specifically designed for worktops," he continues, "rather than leftover paint from the shed.”

Personally, I never paint a laminate or wooden worktop. If I want a quick and relatively cheap worktop makeover, I always use self-adhesive vinyl such as this d-c-fix Walnut Self-adhesive Vinyl Wrap from B&Q. This is easy to apply, lasts longer, has plenty of design options and the end result always looks much better.

4. Tiling on top of tiles without checking if you should

Is this the worst advice I've seen on TikTok? No. If done correctly, it can be a real time-saver; I’ve tiled over tiles, but always followed some simple rules which is rarely the case on TikTok. A lot of TikTok videos focus on the aesthetic taking the view that it looks great, so all is good. No, it's not.

As Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements points out, “videos rarely talk about ensuring that the existing tiles have been properly assessed for their integrity or for being hollow or loose."

Too much weight on a surface and the harsh reality is that everything will come tumbling down. This is even more likely if working with a plasterboard sub-base.

“I've seen tiles peel off en masse in one year due to not being checked for what you were tiling onto," confirms Angelo.

In short, get it wrong, and you're heading for a DIY disaster, and an expensive one at that. Imagine a couple of months in, and the tiles start to fall off the wall. You can't replace them, as the same problem is going to happen again. You'll need to remove the remaining new tiles, remove the old tiles, re-plaster the walls, buy new tiles, and pay to get them installed. That's not going to be cheap.

And even if a wall is fit for purpose, there's rarely any mention of the effect of the double thickness. How will this affect doorways, doors, sockets, worktops and half-tiled walls? It can be hard to create a decent aesthetic and integrate the new surface well. Double-layer floors for example can lead to trimming the bottom of doors, which is very irritating, and you could fund under-counter kitchen appliances will struggle to fit under a countertop. Be warned if you're considering this technique in your home.

5. Mixing plumbing materials the wrong way

Messing up painting a wall is a relatively easy fix, but botched plumbing can have serious and expensive consequences. I'm good with simple plumbing jobs such as replacing a tap or adding a new isolation valve like this Flat Faced Male Straight Isolating Valve from Toolstation. But I try to avoid anything more complicated before asking one of my plumbing mates; it's easy to make mistakes (as I know from experience).

"One of the biggest risks we’ve seen in the TikTok DIY community is people carrying out plumbing repairs and not understanding how different metals interact together,” expands Paul McFadyen.

“A common example is connecting older galvanised steel pipes directly to new copper pipework. This will solve the problem initially, but further down the line problems will lead to premature failure,” he warns.

If you are going to do any DIY plumbing, get expert advice before you start as generally, in classic TikTok fashion, all looks good to start, with little thought for the consequences.

“Seeking professional advice before making alterations can help avoid costly repairs and extend the lifespan of your plumbing system," advises Paul. You have been warned.

6. Confusing US advice with UK advice

It's easy to forget that there are no physical borders on social media platforms, so you can easily be watching content created in the USA. A lot of advice simply won't work, or work as well in the UK. There are distinct differences between construction methods, such as those required when building a house in the UK compared to America, so it makes sense that you check the location of the TikToker before you start following any DIY advice.

Angleo Patrizi points out a few of the more common issues to look out for. "As well as different types of building construction (timber frame vs masonry construction), there are different ways of insulating and protecting against damp, and different pipework standards.

"Something that would work fine on an American stud wall construction might not work well at all on a UK solid wall in a Victorian terrace, or a cavity wall."

Then there's terminology to think about, which can make everything more complicated. You probably know that drywall is plasterboard, but do you know what latex paint is? It's emulsion. What about baseboard? Skirting boards. All something to watch out for. And don't forget, the US use imperial measurements, not metric like the UK.

Whatever DIY project you're looking to tackle, as well as the right methods for the job, you also need to make sure have the right tools. Find out the tools I recommend for decorating, and if you're on a limited budget, these are the 5 budget power tools I'd always buy.

When tackling a paint project, you need to choose the right paint tool to ensure you get the best finish. Will you need a paint sprayer? Or will a brush or roller be the best choice?

In reality, I find you usually need a combination to complete a project. However, you still need to choose the right combination.

Different scenarios often dictate which paint tool is the best option. Sometimes it's easy to decide; other times it's not so simple. The best paint sprayers work well on certain surfaces, but not others; the same for rollers and brushes. Here I reveal what works well and where, so you always get the best finish.

Where to use a sprayer, brush and roller

The simple answer to 'which tool should I use?', is paintbrushes for woodwork such as skirting boards, door frames, doors, and windows. Rollers for painting walls and ceilings, and paint sprayers for cabinets, cabinet doors and fences. This is what I typically use each for, but as always, it's not that straightforward.

Brushes and rollers are typically more flexible and cost-effective than paint sprayers and can be used on interior woodwork and walls. For exterior projects, Paul Kerr, building specialist at Beatsons Building Supplies, says, “rollers can be utilised for outdoor stucco and masonry, while brushes are great for intricate deck railings or woods." Another DIY task they are commonly used for is applying wallpaper paste. Brushes are also essential for cutting in around edges.

Paint sprayers are commonly useful for more specific surfaces and jobs. Timothy Evans, founder of Tess Construction, explains out what they are ideal for. “Paint sprayers come into their own on large exterior surfaces such as fences, cladding and render, as well as spraying kitchen cabinet fronts where a factory-smooth finish is the goal.

"Sprayers are also the best choice for rough or textured surfaces where a brush or roller would struggle to get into every crevice," he adds.

Shop these paint tools for the best finish

Where not to use a sprayer, roller or brush

You can technically use a brush, roller or sprayer for any surface indoors or outdoors, but common sense directs you in a more obvious direction.

For example, Paul Kerr says, "A sprayer doesn't do well on windy days, so when using one outdoors, try to pick a gentle sunny day for it, as they can waste a lot of excess paint in overspraying.”

Timothy Evans points out where rollers aren't a suitable choice: "A roller isn’t suited to small, detailed areas where its size prevents good contact. A brush gives you maximum control here.”

Paintbrushes can be used anywhere, but again, it often makes sense to use an alternative option, as Jack Reading from exterior paint specialists, Emperor Paint, explains.

"There aren't many surfaces where you simply can't use a brush, but it becomes impractical across large areas and makes decorating a much bigger job than it needs to be.”

Pros and cons of spray, brushes and rollers

Speed of application is a key benefit for paint sprayers, which means as a general rule, a paint sprayer is the quickest tool, closely followed by a roller, with a brush typically being the slowest.

“The obvious appeal of spraying is speed, where on large enough projects it can save a lot of application time,” says Jack Reading. But, sprayers need a lot more prep time and use more paint, pushing up paint costs.

As an example, I used a 5L tin of Cuprinol Garden Shades from B&Q (watered down as recommended by the manufacturer) and this covered around 30% less than when I used a brush.

The obvious benefit of rollers is that they are more cost-effective than paint sprayers, and faster than brushes for large flat areas. However, they absorb more paint and create a mist spray when used, so you do need to make sure areas are covered before starting.

There are parts of the job where nothing beats a brush,” says Jack “You have much more control around edges, details, and awkward areas. But, a brush is always slower," he warns.

For most jobs, including cutting in, I like to use a 3-inch brush such as this ProDec Premier Trade Professional Brush from Amazon, as it holds paint well, and lets you cover more area in one go.

For applying to woodwork, I typically use a 2-inch brush, as it holds paint well, has a smooth release, and gives good coverage. For oil-based paints, I always use a natural bristle brush.

Is the preparation work the same for every painting tool?

Typically, surface preparation remains much the same whether you are using a brush, roller, or paint sprayer. For example, if painting a wall, you will need to prepare the wall for painting so it's clean, smooth and free of loose debris. The same principles will apply when preparing woodwork.

However, while you'll only need dust sheets such as these ARVO Extra Large Plastic Dust Sheets for Decorating to cover floors and furniture with brushes and rollers, more protection will be needed when spraying.

Spraying is also more time-consuming when it comes to prep, explains Paul Kerr. “You need to make sure the room is completely bare of furnishings and anything that can't be moved needs to be covered up, or apray will float all over the room/space and settle everywhere," he warns.

To avoid overspray, I use a painter's tape such as this ScotchBlue Multi-Surface Premium Masking Tape from Amazon to tape down the edges of my dust sheets.

You'll also need personal protection, especially for interior spray paint jobs notes Paul, recommending, "eye protection, a mask/respirator and some coveralls for your clothes.”

Do sprayers, brushes and rollers work with all paints?

While technically most paint types work with all paint tools, each works slightly differently.

“Brushes and rollers work with most paints, but choosing the right matches makes the job much easier for yourself," expands Jack Reading.“For brushes, synthetic bristles are best for water-based paints, while oil-based paints work well with natural or suitable synthetic brushes."

Rollers are much the same, but you will need to think about the surface they are being used on, he continues. “With rollers, smooth walls need a shorter pile, while rough surfaces need a longer pile to reach into the texture.”

Paint sprayers are different again, explains Timothy Evans. "Sprayers require paint to be thinned to the correct viscosity, and not all paints thin appropriately for spraying. Very thick masonry paints, and some specialist coatings need an airless sprayer, rather than a standard HVLP unit.”

I’ve got a standard HVLP paint sprayer - The Wagner W100 Paint sprayer - available from B&Q. I only ever use fence paint or watered-down emulsion, so effectively only water-based paints. I never bother with oil-based paints. If I do, I hire an airless sprayer. Whatever you use, make sure to check the manufacturer's dilution recommendation.

Common mistakes to avoid when choosing and using paint tools

1. Wrong roller pile

For smooth walls, it's easy, as all piles work. The shorter the pile, the smoother the finish. However, if you have a heavily textured surface, make sure to use an extra-long-pile roller to get into the gaps.

2. Thinning paint incorrectly

“A common mistake when using a paint sprayer is thinning the paint incorrectly, which causes runs or blockages,” says Timothy Evans. Always check the manufacturer's recommendations and test on an out-of-the-way area. I usually try it on a piece of waste cardboard or wallpaper first.

3. Too much paint and pressure

To get a smooth, even finish, Timothy Evans recommends avoiding overloading a paint roller. “With rollers, overloading the roller causes spatter and uneven coverage,” he explains.

“Be careful also not to apply too much pressure when applying the paint,” adds Paul Kerr, as this causes paint overload on the edges, leaving ridges of paint.

Paul's final piece of advice? "Avoid very cheap rollers as they can shed after a couple uses.”

4. Not cleaning your paint tools properly

At the end of a job, it's easy to skimp on the cleaning. But it needs to be done properly. Brushes and rollers will go stiff and not apply paint as well the next time they are used. If you can't clean your paint brushes or rollers immediately wrap them in cling film to keep moist if using the next day.

You’ll also need to think about the paint type you've used when it comes to cleaning rollers. Water-based paints are easy to clean. Run up a tap until the water runs clear, squeeze and leave to dry. Removing oil-based paints isn’t as simple. First, I use a scraper like this Purdy Contractor brush and roller cleaner from Amazon to remove as much paint as possible.

I follow this up by soaking the roller in white spirit or brush cleaner, and then squeezing the paint out. Repeat with clean white spirit until clear. To finish, I wash the roller sleeve in warm soapy water, rinse the soap out with clean water, stand it up, and leave it to dry.

For paint sprayers, pay extra attention to the nozzle. They have fine holes that can block easily, causing uneven spray patterns and a patchy finish.

Once you've taken on board this advice, find out what you’ll need for painting new plaster, painting a house and painting over water stains. Or, for paint inspiration, check out our guides on how to choose a paint colour and the latest paint trends.

As your DIY aspirations grow, so will your tool collection. Every time you take on a new DIY project, I guarantee that you'll be adding new tools to your collection. It could be something small or even perhaps a smart new power tool – but whatever it is, you need to find a space to house them.

Storing your tools correctly will extend their lifespan, even budget power tools that may not always last as long. And if your space is limited, it's not always easy finding solutions, but choosing the right location will make a big difference and stop them failing sooner than they should.

Combine this with essential and regular maintenance and your tools will be your friends for years to come. I know, because this is how I manage my own personal (and somewhat large) collection.

How to store tools

How you store your tools will have a big bearing on how long they last. Poorly stored and maintained tools will deteriorate much quicker than tools stored and maintained correctly. This means you're be replacing them sooner than you should, which will be costly in the long run. This is especially true of power tools which can involve substantial investment.

The best ways to store power tools

For individual power tools, I like to keep them stored in a hard case if at all possible. Better quality (and more expensive) power tools often come with a hard case, which is the perfect solution for ensuring they don't get bashed or broken.

“One mistake I see is people throwing different tools together in one large box,” shares Matthew O'Grady, director of Thomas Matthew Kitchens & Furniture. "What they don't realise is that every time that box is moved, the tools will knock into each other and that damages cutting edges, and can knock precision tools out of alignment.”

You can purchase hard cases separately, such as this Dewalt 18v SDS Power Tool Case Black from B&Q. However, you will need to do your online research to get a hard case that matches your power tool, especially if the manufacturer doesn't make hard cases. Generic cases like this Plastic Power Tool Storage Case are available from Amazon.

Budget-friendly power tools rarely come with a hard case (this helps keep the price down). DIY-friendly Black & Decker tools often come with a canvas carry case though, which offers a level of protection, especially from dust, and makes them easier to transport.

The alternative is to store the power tool in the cardboard box it came in. This is a short-term solution, as the box will absorb moisture and start to degrade if kept in damp or condensation-prone areas.

Ideally, you also want to store power tools (even if in hard cases) off the ground. Shelving units such as this Essentials 5-Tier Metal Garage Shelving Unit from Screwfix are a good choice.

I like to organise my power tools so I have easy access to the more frequently used ones. These are placed at shoulder height, with regularly used tools above, and the less frequently used at the bottom. However, don't overload the top shelves. Nick Smith, owner of NJS Sash Window Restoration, adds a note of caution (which I try to follow): “To help avoid injury, heavier tool boxes should be placed lower on the shelves.”

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The correct way to store hand tools

The options for storing hand tools depends on what tools you have, what size they are and how many you have. I have various-sized toolboxes from small to large, and they are divided into specific tools, with my largest holding my decorating tools such as wallpaper brushes, rollers (for paste) etc. One of the smaller toolboxes keeps all my plumbing-related tools, such as this HAUTMEC Copper Pipe Cutter Set from Amazon.

Another small toolbox holds screwdrivers, hammers, pliers, and similar tools. My top tip is to invest in stackable toolboxes so you can neatly fit them on top of each other. Modular toolbox systems such as this Stanley Modular Rolling Toolbox from Screwfix are a reliable alternative.

Beyond toolboxes, I use plastic storage towers like this Tontarelli 3 Drawer Plastic Storage Tower Unit from Amazon as a cost-effective alternative. However, they don't last as long, but are cheap to replace. To help keep everything organised, label the drawers with a permanent marker or stickers.

If you have the space, a wall pegboard system such as this VonHaus Tool Pegboard from B&Q is also ideal for storing hand tools on the wall.

Storing the small stuff

Every DIYer has a collection of small stuff such as nails, screws, rawl plugs, and various other fixings – I know I do. Organising these makes it much easier to find what you need, when you need it.

I use a simple set of drawers such as this Really Useful Storage Drawer Unit from Amazon to store them at home. I also have a collection of small plastic bins where I store them for quick, easy access. Try something like this DIY Organiser from VonHaus. Another option is a carry case such as this DEKO Screw Storage Organiser Tool Box from Amazon which is ideal if you need to take a selection wherever you are working.

Garage or shed? The best location for storing tools

Your storage location can be dictated by circumstances. For example, I don’t have the luxury of a garage with good garage storage, so the majority of my tools are stored in my shed, with most of my power tools stored indoors.

A shed might not be the ideal solution, but if you are going to store your tools in one, Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements, says, “a shed with good shed insulation and ventilation that stores tools off the ground is okay, but cheap sheds are likely to be the worst places for metal items,” he warns.

That's why most of my power tools and a lot of my hand tools are stored inside. However, I am on the lookout for a decent shed and am thinking of investing in this Tubby 19mm Log Cabin Apex Work Shed from Dunster House as a potential solution.

But, if like me, you rely on storing your power tools indoors, what are your best options?

“Cupboards, areas under stairs or even a utility room are acceptable for tools,” advises Angelo. Advice I was already following as mine are stored under the stairs where I built my own shelving unit, especially for that reason.

“Power tools and batteries should be stored away from heaters and direct sunlight through windows," continues Angleo, a firm believer in the fact that, “dry always wins over warm, and ventilation is better than an airtight box.”

Keep the temperature constant

Wherever you store your tools, you need to think about temperature and humidity, says Nick Smith.

"A dry garage is better because the temperatures are more constant there than in a garden shed, where the temperature may be extremely hot in the summer and extremely cold in the winter. Just as you don't want your tools to be exposed to high temperatures, you also don't want to expose them to freezing temperatures," he explains.

But, there's also a bigger problem to bear in mind, warns Nick. Areas prone to moisture are the least suitable place to store tools. "Damp is of bigger concern than the temperature, as the constant presence of moisture will promote rust," he warns. "Condensation will also damage the wiring and circuitry of the tools and a tool's batteries."

A potential solution where temperature and moisture isn't always even? "Throw in a few Silica gel packs or moisture absorbers,” with your storage suggests Nick. This will help combat any moisture that does exist. “Air circulation is important," he adds, noting how a workshop that gets damp in the winter may also benefit from purchasing a small dehumidifier.

And, if you have been in a different location with your tools, (perhaps at your self-build but are living off-site and have bought them back with you), and you park on a driveway at night, Angleo Patrizi offers another warning. “Don’t store tools in a van overnight during winter," he says, "as a van gets wet and cold rather quickly, which is the quickest way to spoil a power tool.”

5 essential tips for maintaining tools

Storing tools correctly helps keep them in good condition, but constant maintenance is the key to longevity. There are a few things that I try to do after every use, no matter the tool.

1. Clean them

All tools need to be cleaned after use. Leaving dust, paint, or debris on a tool will lead to corrosion and failing parts. For example, I brush and wipe down all my power tools after use. The same goes for blades, if the tool has one. Decorating tools such as rollers and brushes need to be paint-free and left to dry.

2. Lubricate regularly

Some tools will be more obvious and easier to clean than others. For example, I have a few hand saws. I wipe them clean and use a cloth to add a thin layer of oil to help stop moisture forming on the surface. If you have exposed elements on a power tool, such as rails on a mitre saw, wipe them clean and lubricate them.

Ideally, give any moving parts like a drill chuck regular lubrication too. A squirt of WD-40 is a short-term solution. Check the manufacturer's recommendation on what lubricant to use.

3. Sharpen or replace

Any tools with a blade or cutting edge will dull over time. There are typically two options: sharpen or replace. Tools like chisels, pipe cutters, planer blades and lawnmower blades will need regular sharpening to keep working efficiently.

Blades for circular saws, mitre saws, jigsaws, reciprocating saws and angle grinder discs are easier to replace than sharpen. So always keep spare blades or discs so you can replace them when needed.

4. Battery care

A wipe and clean of contacts is simple aftercare when you swap out a battery. If you are not going to use a battery for a while, Angleo Patrizi says, “batteries should be kept charged at about 40-50% if not used for some period of time.” Personally, I wait until a battery is fully drained, charge for half the usual time of a full charge and then store it away.

5. Power cord care

Try not to wrap long power cords tightly around your elbow or arm. A music technician once told me off for doing that. Apparently it twists internal wires and shortens the life of the cable. For extension cables, it is recommended to unwind completely so there is less chance of overheating. Occasionally wipe the sockets clean and always pull out plugs by the casing, not the cable.

Keeping your tools in good condition means that you tackle a whole host of DIY projects for years to come. But, before you dive into your next project, follow my advice on the 10 DIY mistakes to avoid, and find out what essential tools you need and where to buy them.

You can never just assume that a wall or household fitting is straight and true. Structures move over time, and both DIYers and tradespeople can make mistakes.

One thing you can trust is that gravity will always pull a suspended object towards the centre of the planet. There’s a cheap, simple, traditional tool that uses this natural law to establish a true vertical reference: a plumb bob and line. This type of tool has been used since antiquity, and it’s still popular in the present day.

Whether you buy a plumb bob and line from a hardware retailer, or make your own using household items, it should help you to establish exactly which way is up. This can ensure neat, straight edges in DIY projects, which makes using a plumb bob one of the most effective wallpaper hacks you can learn.

What is a plumb bob and line?

A plumb bob is a weighty object, typically made of metal and featuring a pointed tip. The line is simply a piece of string, cord or another flexible material which the plumb bob can dangle from. Together, they’re a highly effective tool for plotting a perfectly vertical reference line onto a wall.

When the end of the line is tied to a fixed point such as a nail or hook, the bob should dangle exactly vertically, as it is pulled towards earth’s centre of gravity. This holds the line taut, straight down the wall.

“A plumb bob and line is one of the oldest and most dependable tools in DIY and despite the growing popularity of laser levels, it’s still an excellent way to establish a true vertical reference line,” says Laura Nicholson, head of buying at B&Q.

“The tool relies on gravity rather than batteries and calibration, so it’s highly accurate when used correctly. It’s especially handy for everyday DIY jobs where a straight vertical guide is needed, from hanging wallpaper and aligning shelving to checking door frames, fitting wall panelling or making sure posts and stud walls are upright.

“It’s also particularly useful when tiling, helping to establish a true vertical starting line, especially as walls, corners and bathtubs aren’t always perfectly level or square,” she says.

An affordable, effective plumb bob and line:

How to use a plumb bob and line

1. Tie the line to a fixed point

“Securely attach the line to a fixed point above the area you’re working on, and allow the weighted bob to hang freely,” says Laura Nicholson.

In most cases, you will need to install a small fixing into the wall in order to suspend the plumb bob. I drilled a hole and installed a small hook into a suitably sized Rawlplug.

Choose the place from which you hang your plumb bob carefully. If you’re tiling the wall or wallpapering it, then it would make sense to use the horizontal centre of the area being decorated, so that the reference line can line up with where your laying or papering pattern starts.

Do not allow the plumb bob to dangle down past a skirting board or similar obstacle, as this can disrupt its accuracy. “Make sure the line can hang freely without touching the wall or anything else,” Laura advises.

2. Be patient

A plumb bob will inevitably swing or spin for a while after you’ve hung it up. It will stop moving after a minute or two (unless there’s a disruption such as excessive airflow through the space).

“It’s important to wait until the bob has completely stopped moving before taking your measurements, because even the slightest swing can affect the accuracy,” says Laura Nicholson.

“Once completely still, the string will provide a true vertical line that you can use as a guide for marking, aligning or checking surfaces.”

3. Mark along the line

You’re now ready to make your perfectly vertical reference marks, but, "rather than measuring against the bob itself, mark alongside the string once it has settled,” says Laura Nicholson.

“If you’re marking a finished wall, applying a strip of masking tape first allows you to make pencil marks without marking the surface directly,” she suggests. This Status IONOS Masking Tape from Amazon is light in colour, making it easy to see any marks that you make.

Try not to knock the line while making your pencil marks, as this can cause the bob to start swinging or spinning again.

4. Align your project materials

Use a ruler or straight-edge tool to join up the pencil marks you’ve made using the plumb bob and line. Try this White Aluminium Cutting Ruler from Amazon to create a straight line between your pencil marks.

You can now use this pencil line as a reference point for your project. If applicable, place your materials (such as tiles or a section of wallpaper) along the line, and work outwards across the wall.

If your materials are perfectly square, then the accurate verticality should carry through across the laying pattern. However, you will often benefit from drawing multiple vertical references across the wall so that you can keep checking your pattern as you work, especially if you are decorating a wide area, as no material or DIYer is perfectly accurate.

FAQs

Can you make your own plumb bob and line?

Plumb bobs can be one of those makeshift tools that you cobble together at home from commonplace items (such as a washer and a piece of string), although it won’t cost you much to get a good, purpose-made plumb bob and line set from a DIY retailer.

For most people, the maximum length of line you could need will be the height of the highest-ceilinged room in your home (or the stairwell). Cut your line to suit and tie it securely to an object that is heavy enough to pull the line taut.

What does ‘plumb bob’ mean?

The term ‘plumb bob’ refers to the material that was historically used to make these tools: lead (which is called plumbum in Latin and also gives us the word ‘plumbing’). Plumb bobs are also sometimes called ‘plummets’.

The same type of tool and the same principles have been used in construction and decorating since antiquity.

What has replaced traditional plumb bob and lines?

The plumb bob and line hasn’t been replaced, but other, more modern measurement tools have been designed to do similar or slightly different tasks – in some contexts more effectively than a plumb bob and line.

“Modern laser levels such as the selection we have at B&Q are ideal for larger projects, but a plumb bob remains an affordable and dependable addition to your DIY toolkit,” says Laura Nicholson.

“Plumb bobs are simple to use and can provide excellent accuracy for everyday home improvement tasks, making them a reliable alternative when a laser level isn’t needed.”

Nowadays, you can also get relatively sophisticated plumb bobs, including models with pins and/or magnets that can be attached rapidly to walls or steels for quick, convenient measurement.

What are the drawbacks to a plumb bob and line?

A plumb bob and line is by no means perfect. It can only show you a vertical line (unless used with a tape measure and multiple lines of reference), whereas a good laser level will provide both vertical and horizontal references.

Another downside to this tool that we’ve already touched upon is that a plumb bob and line can be rendered inaccurate by disruptions (such as breezes) or obstacles (such as skirting boards or dado rails).

Yair Meshoulam, founder of Wallpaper Hangers, avoids using a plumb bob and line, although he does find the tools interesting. “A spirit level is more accurate,” he says. “The longer it is, the more accurate it is, and the more truly straight the line will be. You don’t have to wait for it to stop swinging before you make your line, and you can draw your line along its straight edge, which is much easier.

“I do have a plumb bob and level from about 40 years ago, but I haven’t used it in years,” he adds. If you would prefer to use a spirit level in the way Yair describes, you will need one that has a plumb vial for vertical measurement.

Small and cheap tools like plumb bob and line sets are sometimes overlooked, but they can make a dramatic difference to your DIY projects. For more toolbox inspiration, read our guides to tile spacers and masking tape vs painter’s tape.

The beauty of a multi tool is that you get good value for money. It can tackle a whole host of DIY jobs with a single tool, so no need to splash out on multiple power tools. It's a smart and sensible choice for any DIYer, but even more so for those just getting started.

But it's not just novice DIYers that can benefit from a decent multi tool. Seasoned do-it-yourselfers will find a use for it as well. All you need is the right blades or attachment to tackle the task at hand.

Here, I run the Einhell TP-MG 18 Li BLCordless Multifunctional Tool through a gamut of tests to see just how well it works, and whether it's worth your hard-earned cash.

Where to buy

Specification and features

• Motor: Brushless motor
• Weight: 0.8kg
• Sandpaper size: 93 x 93 x 93mm.
• Angle of oscillation: 3.2 degrees
• No load speed: 11000 - 22000/min
• Oscillating speed: 22000 - 40000/min
• Warranty: 10 years
• Features: 1 x sanding shoe with hook-and-loop fastening, 1 x diamond segment saw blade for tile grouting, 1 x segment saw blade (HSS) for wood, plastic, soft metal, 1 x plunge saw blade (BIM) for metal, 1 x plunge saw blade (HCS) for wood and plastic, 1 x scraper, 9 x sandpapers (3 x P60, 3 x P80, 3 x P120).

First impressions

I say the same thing almost every time, but the excitement of unboxing a power tool for the first time never leaves me. It’s been a while since I’ve had a new multi tool, which added to the excitement, and my interaction with Einhell power tools has always been positive… so far.

First impressions were good; the packaging was recyclable, and there wasn’t much of it. Just enough to protect the tool, along with a simple cardboard box to store the accessories. A QR code on the box redirected to the Einhell website for more info, prices and available accessories. Simple, but effective.

First out of the box were the accessories. Included were blades for wood and metal, a scraper blade, segment (round) saw blades for removing tile grouting and for cutting wood, plastic, and soft metal, and a sanding pad with 9 sandpaper pads in three different grades. Pretty much everything you’ll need to start using the multi tool immediately.

What I did notice before I even lifted the multi tool out of the box was a lack of a carry bag or case. I would have been happy with either. The box will be taking up that mantle for now. More importantly, there’s no battery or charger, so there will be additional costs for those who don’t already own a tool from the Einhell Power X-Change collection, many of which you can find on Amazon.

The unit itself was solid, lightweight and well-balanced. The well-placed rubber grip gave the impression that the Einhell would be secure and comfortable to use. Subtly etched into the grip were the words 'anti-vibration'. This heightened my anticipation and hope that it would work well.

Another feature neatly placed on the top of the tool was a speed dial. This ranged from 1-6. I set it to one to ease myself into using the tool. Keeping it company was a well-placed and sizeable on/off button. Finally, there was the quick-release handle at the front of the tool. I had a quick play with it, and it wasn’t the easiest to use; you've got to put some effort in to get it working. It's worth noting that other brands use different connection methods, I would say some easier than the Einhell. However, once I got used to it, it wasn’t an issue.

Set up

There are pretty much only two steps to setting up a cordless multi tool. Add battery then your preferred blade or attachment and you're ready to go.

If you’re new to using a cordless multi tool, make sure to add the blade or attachment first. You don’t want the tool to burst into life when your hands or any other body part are in the vicinity. It will be painful, I promise you. The quick-release handle is there to enable toolless attachment, but it's not the easiest option I’ve seen for attaching a blade. You need to give the handle some muscle power to get it into the unlock position.

Once you have, adding a blade to the 12-pin tool adapter is straightforward and allows you to choose the position you want. Ideal when tackling harder-to-reach areas. When in position, simply close the quick-release handle to secure it. There is a bit of snap back on the handle, so be careful. However, once I got used to it, it was easy to use.

There is a small metal disk supplied to help hold open back blades and attachments in place. This offers greater compatibility and the option to buy other brands. The only problem I had was that I was convinced that I was going to lose it. Luckily, I haven’t yet.

It's worth noting that the Einhell is incompatible with the Starlock system you get on other tools. But don’t panic, this won’t be an issue for DIYers. And it's easy enough to buy compatible blades and attachments, such as the Original Einhell XL-Plus-CASE 35-Piece Multi-Tool Set from Amazon.

Finally, before I added my 4.0Ah battery, I gave it a full charge to get the most out of the tool. Adding the battery is as simple as it gets. Slide in, and it clicks into place. You’re ready to go.

Performance

The Einhell TP-MG 18 Li BL multi tool comes with a collection of blades and attachments, pretty much something for every DIY job you’ll need a multi tool for.

To kick off, I used the wood/plastic blade to cut through architrave at ground level, ready for new flooring. I started with the speed dial set at one (the lowest level). The Einhell worked effectively, if not efficiently, so I upped the speed dial to three. This cut through the architrave with ease. Upping the speed to six (the highest level) made it even quicker. But assuming this would use more battery power, I was keen to keep it at a mid-range level. It's worth noting that the Einhell isn’t excessively loud for a multi tool, but it's not quiet either.

Next, it was cutting out a few shapes to get a couple of lengths of timber to fit around my side gate lock and ensure my garden fencing fitted well. Again, this was a breeze. Next, I tried it on some plastic plumbing pipe, no problems. A switch to the metal blade saw easily cut through some thin metal sheeting. It took more effort for thicker metal, but in reality, when cutting a lot of metal, you would use a more specialist tool.

For the larger-segment wood saw blade, I cut into a hardwood plank to fit around some pipework. This took more effort, even with the dial set at six, and created a little smoke. However, this would be the same for any multi tool.

This left me with the grout removal blade, scraper and sander. The grout removal blade did its job with no fuss, quickly and neatly removing narrow grout lines. To give the blade a more thorough test, I tried removing mortar ready for repointing. This was a slow process, but again, another tool is better suited to heavier-duty work. In this case I would typically use my angle grinder.

The scraper and sander worked exactly as I expected. I tried it to help remove self-adhesive vinyl planks and paint from door frames and doors, then sanded the floors and frames. Again, this was effective and efficient. What I noticed when tackling a job, whatever the blade or attachment, was how well the anti-vibration feature worked. It was more prominent at the lower levels, but at the top end, it was hardly noticeable, allowing longer working time without feeling the effects.

The last thing to mention is the neat thin LED light on the front. It lights up the blade or attachment well, but there’s no option to switch off. Which means it's always on, even when there’s no need. It’s a small point, but I would have liked the option.

Battery lfe

As with any cordless power tool, battery life is important. No DIYer wants a battery that takes forever to charge, can’t hold its charge or is underpowered. As I already mentioned, this Einhell multi tool doesn’t come with a battery or charger. So, for clarity and context, I am using an Einhell PXC 4.0Ah SEALED battery (available on Amazon), but it will add significantly to the multi tool's cost.

There are other options, such as the Einhell 18V 4.0Ah Plus Lithium-Ion Battery and Charger Set from Amazon. However, if you already own a compatible Einhell power tool, you can ignore this cost.

The official runtime for a 4.0Ah battery (according to their website) is around 68 minutes. So how did this compare with my experience? I'm not sure the battery hit 68 minutes, but it wasn’t far off, so plenty of runtime. I always recommend you have a second battery charged so you can swap when needed. Which, if you did have the same, you’ll have over three hours of runtime, plenty for any DIY tasks you’re tackling.

Once I had drained the battery, it was time to recharge. I used an Einhell Power X-Charger 3A, which conveniently has a charging time overview chart on the back. This indicated 75 minutes for a 4.0Ah battery. My battery took around 70 minutes to fully charge. Good to see accurate timings. A similar charger - the Power X-Fastcharger 4A - is available from the Einhell site for £30. The charger is easy to use with red and green LEDs indicating whether the battery is charging or fully charged. A trio of blue lights - activated by a quick push of a button- lets you know what's happening.

Final verdict

A multi tool is a great addition to a DIYer's toolkit, and I have no hesitation in recommending the Einhell TP-MG 18 Li BL Cordless Multitool. Admittedly, it doesn’t come with a battery or charger, so this will add nearly 50% to the overall cost. Obviously, not an issue if you already own another Einhell tool in the Power X-Change family. But I wouldn’t recommend a single battery for more than one tool. I would invest in at least a second, which would add to the cost again. However, it is ideal if you own other Einhell tools, such as this Einhell TP-CD 18/50 cordless drill that I also tested and found to be a great addition to my tool box.

The tool itself is straightforward to use; however, while the quick-release system does the job, I’ve seen easier-to-use options on some of the other best multi tools. But don’t let this put you off what is a good all-round multi tool.

The anti-vibration setup worked a treat, especially at higher speeds, and the inclusion of blades and attachments means you can tackle the tasks the tool was intended for. There’s little to dislike, though a carry case/bag would have been a simple addition, and apart from a few minor flaws, you are getting a great multi tool.

If you’re a DIYer, you might find some of the best reciprocating saws quite intimidating, due to their extreme power or complicated features. Yet on the other hand, you’ll sometimes find that the most basic models lack the power or quality to excel at chopping or plunge cutting all sorts of materials including wood, metal and plasterboard.

The Worx Nitro WX501 is a compact, cordless model that’s pitched somewhere in-between the two extremes. It’s certainly powerful, with a 20V motor driving its blade at up to 3,000 strokes per minute – but it’s also approachable, with a minimal form factor and simple controls.

It sounds good on paper, but how does the Worx Nitro WX501 perform when faced with wood or metal? I set up a series of DIY tests to find out.

Where to buy the Worx Nitro WX501

Key specifications

• Cordless tool family: Worx PowerShare
• Intended uses include: plunge-cutting; cutting workpieces including metal bars and wooden beams
• Battery capacity: 2.0Ah
• Voltage: 20V
• Blade speed: 0 - 3,000/min
• Stroke length: 26mm
• Weight: 1.8kg

Alongside the tool itself, you get a 2.0Ah lithium-ion battery to power it, and a Worx WA3880 battery charger, both of which can also be used with compatible ‘bare tools’ from the Worx Powershare range. All of the components come with a good-quality hard case for storage and transportation (provided you choose the retailer carefully – some sell the same tool with a soft storage bag).

Last but not least, two reciprocating saw blades are bundled in with the tool. One of these is designed for cutting metal; the other is intended for wood. You can also buy other types of reciprocating saw blades, including these Masonry Reciprocating Saw Blades from Screwfix that can saw through brick and concrete – though I would recommend using these with a contractor-grade reciprocating saw.

How I tested

I reviewed the Worx Nitro WX501 Cordless Brushless Compact Reciprocating Saw by testing it across an appropriate range of tasks, including cutting clean through wood or metal, and plunge-cutting holes in MDF.

1. Cutting timber

I was blown away by the power of the WX501 when I used it to cut various pieces of wood. Running at up to 3,000 strokes per minute, the blade made its way through hardwood and softwood battens in a matter of seconds, producing fairly clean cuts that needed only a little tidying up using a sander. (With that said, you should always cut wood fractionally over the required length when using a reciprocating saw, so that you can adjust the finish without making the piece too short).

It took next to no manual effort to cut wood with this saw, so I could focus on directing the saw blade accurately, while the weight and cutting action of the tool did the hard work. As well as cutting wood to size for woodworking projects, I found that this tool was very useful for cutting scrap wood into pieces to make firewood or kindling.

2. Cutting metal

With its metal-cutting saw blade attached, the WX501 did a good job of cutting through metal tubing. It completed this task quickly, although not as rapidly as it was able to cut through wood, and the maximum cutting capacity is lower (10mm for steel or 15mm for aluminium, versus 80mm for wood).

When cutting any workpiece with the WX501, I would recommend bracing the pivoting shoe at the front of the saw against the workpiece, as this makes it easier to keep everything stable and produce an accurate cut. Secure clamping is very important, and you may need to weight your workbench if it is light, as the action of the saw is very powerful.

3. Plunge-cutting

During my testing, plunge-cutting holes into MDF board proved to be the WX501’s most impressive capability. The saw was able to cut through the material with absolute ease and excellent control, even when I really tested it by cutting gently curved shapes.

I was able to tweak the cutting depth slightly by adjusting the saw’s movable shoe, which would be a handy capability when you’re cutting into a stud wall, for example. As this saw is relatively light, compared to other reciprocating saws, it was easier to control when plunge-cutting from below.

Ease of use

One of the selling points to this reciprocating saw is its compact format, and this does make it easy to hold with one hand around the grip, and the other supporting the tool from underneath. However, it’s still pretty heavy, and there’s not much for your non-trigger hand to grip while supporting the tool from beneath. When you’ve been using it for a longer-duration task, your forearms will know about it.

The saw is activated with a variable speed trigger. Pressing this lightly gives a slow, controlled cutting action, and I found that it was highly responsive when I wanted to press harder for a higher cutting speed. This is the only way to control the cutting speed – there are no selectable gears of the sort you sometimes find on tools like the best cordless drills. You can use the lock button next to the trigger to prevent it from being pressed down inadvertently and activating the saw.

Changing the saw blade is very simple – you just turn the blade release lever, push the blade into the blade clamp slot and allow the release lever to return to its original position, now holding the blade in place.

Battery performance

I was pretty impressed with this saw’s runtime. On a single charge of the 2.0Ah battery, it was able to complete a few hours’ worth of testing across various cutting tasks, as described above. However, I did need to recharge it in order to complete the process, and I believe that DIYers embarking on heftier tasks such as demolition work would benefit from buying a spare battery (available from Worx) to swap in whenever the original battery needs recharging.

The charger couldn’t be much simpler. It’s lightweight and provides just the right level of feedback via its status lights, which tell you when the battery is charging, fully charged, broken or at the wrong temperature for charging (the latter two were never needed during my testing). I was pleased to find that it could charge the 2.0Ah battery within around one hour.

Who should buy it?

I see the WX501 as a tool mainly for DIYers, rather than for professional tradespeople. It’s very handy for a variety of home improvement tasks, from rough-cutting timber and chopping shower rails down to size, to plunge cutting holes in the wall for electrical sockets (provided you know how to avoid cutting into wires!) I’d find it difficult to imagine the DIYer who wouldn’t find plenty of uses for a reciprocating saw – and this one is among the best in its class.

You might also find it useful for outdoor tasks such as cutting up wood for firewood, or cutting pruned tree branches into smaller pieces so that these can fit into the garden waste bin. (I use proper secateurs for the pruning itself, as these can produce cleaner cuts that are healthier for the tree.)

If you have a lot of structural work ahead of you (e.g. cutting through brick), then this saw might just about do the job, but you’d probably be better off choosing a contractor-grade reciprocating saw for tasks of this type – perhaps with corded power.

Final verdict

This is a very good tool for the lighter-duty work that’s typically tackled with a reciprocating saw. If what you need is a saw that will conveniently cut wood and metal, or plunge-cut into relatively soft materials (probably not brick or stone), then the WX501 is a superb option.

I was highly impressed with this saw’s cutting performance across a variety of tests. It was excellent at plunge-cutting, great at cutting wood, and good enough at cutting metal to suit most DIY scenarios. Perhaps best of all, its cutting capabilities are delivered in a compact, uncomplicated format that will help many DIY users get to grips with using a reciprocating saw.

If you’re working on a DIY project where you need to fix an object to a wall, I can guarantee you’ll need to use a Rawlplug to make it the fixing secure. Also known as wall plugs, Rawlplugs are a key component in the fixing process, but you need to choose the right ones for them to be effective.

When drilling into brick or masonry for example, you can’t simply screw straight into the drill hole. The screw simply won’t grip, and the fixing will fail. A Rawlplug will add the holding power needed to support it.

But you still need to choose the appropriate option. Find out what types are available and what will work for your next DIY project.

Rawlplugs, rawl plugs or wall plugs?

If you're wondering why you might hear the term Rawlplugs, rawl plugs and wall plugs in reference to just one type of product, there's a reason why, as Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements explains.

“A rawl plug, properly called a wall plug, is also called a 'Rawlplug' as it's the brand name that has become generically associated with it – a bit like a 'Hoover' is used to describe a vacuum cleaner. It's a small tube made of either plastic or nylon, inserted in a hole that's been drilled in masonry, into which you insert a screw.”

They are typically used in walls to provide a secure fix. "Brick, block, or concrete does not provide sufficient friction on its own for the thread of the screw to grip,” he expands. The plug expands to fit in the hole as the screw is inserted, and this expansion helps create a stronger hold between the screw and the wall.

Types of rawl plug

Rawlplugs are effectively designed the same, with slight variations for different DIY tasks. The key difference is the size. Scott Godfrey, trade consultant for Black Hammer and owner of SG Carpentry, explains further.

“The most common differences are the diameter and length of the plug. A larger diameter plug can generally support heavier loads because it creates a stronger grip inside the wall, and longer plugs are useful when you need extra support or when fixing into softer materials where a deeper anchor is needed,” he says.

“The sizes typically correspond to the diameter of the drill bit,” adds Angelo Patrizi. For example, a 6mm Rawlplug commonly fits a hole drilled with a 6mm bit.

Beyond the standard, there are also specialist plugs designed for different wall types, “Plasterboard fixings, cavity wall plugs and heavy duty masonry plugs all work differently because the materials they grip behave differently,” explains Scott.

What rawl plug colours mean

“The colours are a simple way to identify the size of the plug, although it’s worth remembering that colour coding can vary between brands,” explains Scott Godfrey. “Traditionally, red, brown and yellow plugs are commonly seen in DIY shops, with each colour representing a different diameter.”

Angelo Patrizi explains the common sizes for colours and what screw is needed.

“5mm plugs are yellow and need a no. 6-8 screw, 6mm is red and needs a no. 8-10, 7/8mm is brown and a no. 10-14 is needed. Large or heavy-duty for bigger fixtures are typically grey or blue plugs,” he adds.

Don’t forget to check sizes with the individual retailer before you buy or use though as colours, especially yellow, red and brown, may differ slightly.

Shop these Rawl plugs and tools for DIY projects

How to use a Rawlplug

It's pretty straightforward to use a Rawlplug, but there are a few simple rules to follow.

“To use one correctly, you first need to choose the right plug and screw for the job, then drill a hole that matches the size of the plug," says Scott Godfrey.

“The plug should fit snugly into the hole without being forced in, and it should sit flush with the wall surface,” he adds. Make sure the drilled hole is also deep enough for the plug's length.

A simple tip I use is to line up the Rawlplug alongside the drill bit to be used, add 5mm and mark this by wrapping masking tape around the drill bit

When to use Rawlplugs

Rawlplugs are used to attach items to masonry, typically walls. I use them mainly to put up shelves and hang pictures and hooks, but I have also used them to hang wall cabinets.

But these are not the only jobs where they will be called upon. Angelo Patrizi suggests a few other tasks, including, “hanging curtain rails and mirrors, fixing TV mount brackets and kitchen cabinet mounts, fitting radiators, rain gutter mount brackets and house numbers.”

“They’re particularly useful whenever you need a secure fixing in brick, concrete or plasterboard,” adds Scott Godfrey.

But, one word of warning. Remember, if fixing into plasterboard, Rawlplugs will not work; you will need specialist plasterboard fixings. "A small pack of plasterboard fixings (self-drilling or toggle) are needed for anything not going into masonry," confirms Angelo Patrizi.

For ease of reference, if you're wondering what colour Rawplugs will suit common DIY jobs, Anglo explains.

"Yellow (5mm) is ideal for lightweight fixings like picture hooks and small brackets. Red (6mm) is the most commonly used size, which is good for curtain poles, mirrors, and light shelving. Brown (7/8mm) for heavier shelving, radiators, kitchen units."

“A useful DIY toolbox should therefore include a few common sizes (5mm, 6mm and 8mm plugs are good ones) along with matching screws,” advises Scott.

Rawlplug hacks

A poorly drilled hole can mean a loose-fitting plug. The obvious solution is to drill a new hole nearby, but this isn't always possible.

If you do have a loose fitting, Scott Godfrey says, “don’t just force a larger screw into it and hope for the best If you don’t have the right plug available, it’s usually better to wait and buy the correct fixing, rather than risk damaging the wall or having the item fall.”

However, if you are only putting up a lightweight item, such as a shelf, Angelo Patrizi suggests a few hacks to help. “Take a small piece of insulation tape or even a strip taken from a plastic bag to fill up an undersized plug.”

Another option I’ve used over the years is matches. Break a couple of matches into the hole next to a loose plug in order to increase the friction; it’s an old trick but very effective.

How to remove a Rawlplug

If you’re lucky, you can remove a Rawlplug by hand. However, if this isn’t the case, there are a few options.

A simple way to remove is to get a larger screw and screw into the Rawlplug. Then get a pair of pliers such as these Draper 200mm Combination Pliers from Amazon to pull it out. Alternatively, use the claw on a claw hammer.

If you are struggling to remove a Rawlplug, I simply tap it in further and fill the hole with a decent wall filler. I use a patching plaster such as this Bartoline Patching Plaster from Amazon, as it sets quickly and is easy to rub down. Another option I’ve also used is to drill out the Rawlplug.

Rawl plugs are a key component when hanging items on the wall. Find out how they are used in our how to hang a picture guide. If putting up shelves and you need some inspiration, make sure you check our kitchen shelving ideas and bedroom shelving ideas before you start.

When kicking off a new DIY project, you almost always have to decide between nails or screws as the primary fixing. But which one will you need? Choosing between the two may seem obvious, and in some cases it will, but in other scenarios it won’t be.

For example, what will you need if you’re drilling into brick to put up a shelf? You’ll need a fixing that will bear the load and one that will provide better holding power. In this case, a screw.

However, it's not always that obvious, and there are times when you will need to decide. Based on my years of DIY experience, here's how to make the right choice.

Nails vs screws – how to choose

When it comes to how nails and screws look, it's pretty straightforward and easy to identify which is a nail and which is a screw.

“Nails have smooth shafts and are driven in by hammering," explains explains Tom Armenante, director at GTSE UK. "They rely on friction and wood compression to hold, install fast, and have some flex to absorb shock.

"Screws have a helical thread and are driven in by turning," he continues. "They grip better and resist pulling out, but are more rigid, slower to install, and easy to remove and reuse without damage.”

Rules for choosing

Choosing screws or nails for a project isn’t always easy, but there are some rules and guidelines that can help make the process simpler.

“There isn't a strict rule, but most tradespeople ask a few practical questions to help make their decisions,” shares Tom Armenante, explaining how one of the most important questions is, "will it be load-bearing or structural? If so, go with screws for better holding power," he says. "And, if it might need to come apart in the future, then screws again are the best choice, since they remove cleanly.

“If speed or volume is the priority however, then nails are a good choice, especially for things like first fix stud walls," Tom continues. "For jobs like timber settings where some flex or movement is expected, then nails are also a good choice, since they will flex rather than snap.

"For finishing work like fitting skirting boards and architrave, using nails, usually with a pin nailer, will give a clean finish,” he adds.

Scott Godfrey, trade consultant for Black Hammer and owner of SG Carpentry, notes how, “it's also worth thinking about the material you're fixing into. Plasterboard, decking, kitchen cabinets, shelving and flat pack furniture are generally better suited to screws, while timber framing, roof battens and some types of fencing often rely on nails.”

Also consider the project's weight and whether it is internal or external. “Always consider the weight the fixing needs to support and whether the project is indoors or outdoors," says Scott. “For external work, use corrosion-resistant fixings such as galvanised or stainless steel so they don't rust when exposed to the weather.”

Quick reference guide

Shop these tools for your next project

5 common mistakes DIYers need to avoid

The effects of choosing the wrong fixing may not always be immediately obvious. However, there can be longer-term consequences, explains Tom Armenante.

“Choosing the wrong fixing can compromise both structural integrity and aesthetics, leading to early failure and expensive repairs. In load-bearing applications, using nails instead of screws inevitably causes components to loosen, sag, or fail under weight.

"Meanwhile, using rigid screws where timber needs room to flex causes the wood to split and crack.”

As well as picking nails instead of screws, and vice versa, there are also common mistakes that DIYers often make that it helps to avoid if you want your DIY to stay together.

1. Don’t assume nails and screws are interchangeable

“One of the biggest mistakes is assuming nails and screws are interchangeable (they aren't),” says Scott Godfrey. "Using nails where screws are needed can mean your shelves, brackets or furniture gradually work loose because nails don't provide the same pull-out resistance.

"Or equally, using screws for some structural timber jobs where nails are specified can create problems because certain screws aren't designed to cope with movement in the same way.”

2. Choosing the wrong size

A common mistake is choosing the wrong size. Tom Armenante says, “don’t ignore the length and gauge of the fixing. If they are too short, they won't hold; too long and it can split the material or poke through the other side.”

3. Not choosing the right finish

“People also overlook the importance of using the correct finish,” warns Scott Godfrey. For example, “Standard steel fixings used outside will eventually rust, staining timber and weakening the fixing.” Tom Armenante adds, “A proper corrosion-resistant or stainless option will work better.”

4. Overdriving screws

It's easy to do, but try not to overdrive screws and Tom Armenante reveals why. “Avoid overdriving screws into the material as it could strip the head, sink too deep and crack the material by not stopping at the right torque.”

5. Not pre-drilling when needed

Pre-drilling, especially in wood, can help with installation. “Pre-drilling isn’t always needed," says Tom Armenante, "but with hardwoods or near edges, skipping a pilot hole causes splitting.”

Key sizes and types for a DIYer's toolbox

The types and sizes of nails and screws you will need will depend on what type of DIY projects you regularly tackle. However, as a general rule, Scott Godfrey recommends the following.

“A range of countersunk wood screws in common sizes such as 3.5 x 30 mm, 4 x 40 mm and 5 x 60 mm, as these cover many everyday jobs around the home.”

These Wirox Universal Screws from Amazon are a good choice, and make sure that you have Rawl plugs to match.

However, there are a lot of options to choose from says Scott.“For outdoor work, keep some galvanised or stainless steel wood screws in similar sizes. For nails, a packet of lost-head nails (such as these ForgeFix Lost Head Nails from Amazon), for trim work, oval wire nails for general timber jobs, and galvanised round wire nails for outdoor projects will handle most basic DIY tasks.

“If you regularly work with timber," he adds, "panel pins are also useful for lightweight mouldings and decorative trim.”

Tom Aramante also suggests a few other options. “Plasterboard screws have a finer thread, for stud walls and drywall fixing. The most common size is a 3.5 x 38mm. For outdoor timber, you might need decking screws," he notes. "These are typically corrosion-resistant and have a coarse thread. The common size is a 4.5 x 75mm.”

The tools you’ll need to install nails and screws

There’s a range of tools that you need to install nails and screws, some more obvious than others. “A good quality claw hammer is the most useful tool for nails because it allows you to drive them in and remove them if needed,” says Scott Godfrey.

However, if you are tackling larger construction projects, a nail gun will be useful, he continues. “Nail guns can speed up repetitive work, but they aren't essential for most homeowners. A nail punch (such as this 3Pcs Centre Punch Set from Amazon), is also useful when fitting trim because it allows you to sink the nail head below the surface before filling.”

For screws, the obvious tool is a screwdriver. However, “most DIYers will benefit from a cordless drill driver because it makes driving screws much quicker and less tiring,” advises Scott.

But if you are doing a lot of screw work, an impact driver such as this Ryobi Cordless Impact Driver from Amazon can be advisable to purchase. “Impact drivers are particularly useful for long screws or harder timbers because they provide extra turning force with less effort,” says Scott.

The final piece in the screw puzzle is the drill bit. But make sure you have the right ones for the screw being used, otherwise, you could find yourself in trouble.

“Driver bits must match the screw head correctly," warns Scott. "Using the wrong bit is one of the quickest ways to damage both the screw and the tool.”

A handy addition is a countersink bit, such as this 3 Piece 1/4 Inch Hex Shank Countersink Drill Bit Set from Amazon. These allow screw heads to sit neatly below the timber surface, creating a cleaner, more professional finish.”

Nails and screws are key components of a wide range of DIY projects. Check out our kitchen shelving ideas, how to install coving, and driveway fence ideas that will all need nails or screws.

When removing old paint from woodwork, it's tempting to rush the preparation and cover it with a new coat of paint. Who’s going to know? However, if I plan to stain or varnish the wood, I always make sure it's completely paint-free to achieve the finish and reveal the natural beauty of the wood below. Leaving any paint behind can spoil the appearance.

I could use less preparation, particularly if I'm repainting, but I believe doing the job properly gives better results. I’m probably a bit of a perfectionist, but using the right tools to remove old paint and sand wood guarantees the right finish.

In this guide, I explain what tools I use, how to use them (in the order suggested) and where you can buy them, so that you too can make sure your woodwork is easy to redecorate.

1. Use a heat gun to soften paint

When you have layers of paint to remove, a heat gun like this budget-friendly VonHaus Heat Gun from Amazon can be your best friend. It's a fast, efficient way to soften old paint before it's removed.

It works really well with oil-based paints, and you might read that it doesn’t work as well with water-based paints, but I’ve never had a problem. For thin layers of paint on wood, a sander is often a better choice as it's a one-step process. No need to heat, remove and then sand. Test an area first to determine which is the best approach, as each task is rarely the same.

Using a heat gun is straightforward to use. It will typically have one or two settings - high and low – and nozzles to direct the heat. For removing paint, use the high setting and the surface nozzle (or no nozzle at all). I generally don't use a nozzle for open areas of wood. If using near glass or an area you don’t want heated, use a thin nozzle to concentrate the heat where needed.

Hold the heat gun about 50mm from the surface and turn it on. Hold in position, gently move it back and forth across the area and wait until the paint starts to bubble. Then move on to the next area. As soon as you have heated a decent-sized area – around 200mm – get your scraper (more on this below) to remove the paint and repeat the process until finished.

A word of warning: when putting down the heat gun while removing paint, make sure to place it on a surface that won’t be affected by heat, e.g., wood. Place it on carpet or vinyl flooring, and it can melt a hole in the material (I know I’ve done it). Also, place it in front of you so you can see it. You don't want to accidentally lean on it and burn yourself (I’ve done that as well).

2. Start removing paint with a scraper

A paint scraper is key when removing paint, and there are a few options to choose from. If I’m removing paint from a mainly flat surface like a door, windowsill, wall, or panelling, I like to use a larger paint scraper, like this 50 mm heavy-duty wood scraper from Screwfix.

Simply place the scraper on the heated paint, apply gentle pressure, and drag it to remove the paint. You may need to go back over the area a few times to remove all paint. Make sure that the blade is clean after use. Typically, the paint will fall off the scraper, but occasionally it will need to be removed.

For more intricate/narrower flat areas, you can use a smaller scraper such as this Bahco 625 Pocket Hand Scraper from Amazon.

3. Use a shave hook for scraping curves

A shave hook is a different type of paint scraper. It typically has a triangular head and includes a straight edge, a small straight edge, a curved inset, and a curved edge. It's this combination that helps remove paint from intricate areas. The long shaft and wooden handle help minimise heat transfer.

I use my shave hook to remove paint from architraves, skirting boards, stair bannisters, and hard-to-reach grooves and corners. How you use it depends on what you are working on. The inset curve is ideal for rounded contours, while the point is great for tight corners and 90-degree joins.

However, be careful when working on intricate areas; take your time to ensure the shave hook doesn’t slip and gouge the wood.

4. Introduce wirewool for delicate or difficult paint removal

Wirewool (or metal scourer) is a finishing tool for removing paint. When I can’t quite get into a groove or an intricate curve on a moulding with any of the other tools I have at my disposal, I often revert to using wire wool to remove it (fine grade is good).

It's a little more flexible than sandpaper and is good for just about getting into anywhere. For deeper grooves, I sometimes combine it with the thin edge of a scraper, like this Dekton 2" Professional Scraper from Amazon. This helps to reach further into a groove or crevice.

It's also a good option if you're using a paint stripper. Sandpaper is more prone to clogging quickly, so you need to use more of it. However, when using wirewool (or a metal scourer), you can clean and carry on.

5. Finish off with sandpaper

Sandpaper is the classic finishing tool; whether sanding wood by hand or with one of the best hand sanders, it's the perfect tool for removing any remnants of paint and improving surface adhesion for a coat of paint or varnish.

For flat areas, a random orbital sander works for most surfaces. A detail sander like this BLACK+DECKER 55W Compact Electric Mouse Sander from Amazon is a good choice for getting into 90-degree corners and sanding stair spindles.

For heavy paint removal, start with a coarse sandpaper grade, such as 60 or 80-grit. Then use a finer grit, such as 180 or 220, to finish. Find out more in our sanding wood guide.

6. Unleash paint stripper for intricate areas

I’m not a fan of paint stripper for most paint removal jobs, simply because it slows the removal process and, in many scenarios, doesn’t do a better job than the other tools in this article. Typically, you’ll need to apply and leave for 30 minutes on thin layers of paint before it's effective. For lots of layers, it will need to be left for hours, and in some cases covered.

However, there are times when it can be a sensible choice, typically when removing paint from moulding, or furniture where you want to keep the detail.

To use, apply as instructed, usually with a brush; leave, then remove with a scraper, and wipe clean with white spirit or soapy warm water to remove any residue.

Why removing all paint is a good idea

There are a few reasons why removing all paint from woodwork is a good idea. David Baines, Technical specification manager at Johnstone's Paint, reveals why it's particularly essential if you'll be using a non-paint finish after stripping.

“If the aim is to restore the natural finish or the original look of a surface, any old paint needs removing in order to stain, oil, or varnish the exposed timber correctly. That way, any finish will penetrate evenly and bring out the beauty of the natural grain more clearly," he says.

David also says there's another, more practical reason. “Stripping back to the bare wood also allows you to inspect the surface substrate for any hidden issues such as moisture damage, rotting or repairs like holes or scratches that may need attention.”

The risks of leaving paint in place

Leaving old paint on woodwork is not a smart move as it can cause issues with the new top coat, David continues.

“Any new paint applied over a surface will only be as strong as the layer underneath. If the existing coating has started to peel, flake, blister or crack, applying a fresh coat of paint over the top will only disguise the problem temporarily and in time, the problems will get worse,” he warns.

"Any poorly adhered paint left on a surface could result in newly applied paint also peeling and cracking.”

However, this isn’t the only issue, he continues. “Painting over the top of existing paint also increases the likelihood of an uneven finish, with visible differences in old and new paint coats. These imperfections are often more noticeable when painted with certain types of paint such as modern satin, eggshell, or gloss finishes, which tend to reflect more light.”

And finally, if varnishing or staining wood, any paint left will almost certainly lead to poor adhesion and spoil the finished aesthetic.

FAQs

Do different types of paint require different tools?

It depends, says David Baines, agreeing that, "the most effective paint removal method can vary depending on the type and condition of the existing paint coating."

"Oil-based paints tend to form a harder, more durable film so may require more thorough removal tools such as heat guns, specialist paint strippers or more intensive sanding down," he advises.

"Water-based paints are often softer in texture, therefore generally easier to remove. Therefore, rubbing or sanding is usually recommended."

Are there any alternatives you can use to remove paint?

The selection of tools already mentioned in this article should be more than enough to get the job done. I've never needed any other tools to remove paint.

However, there are a couple of eco-friendly alternatives available. Vinegar is often touted as a paint remover and is useful for cleaning away paint residue left after scraping. However, it’s not a viable alternative to heat guns, scrapers and sandpaper.

For outdoor jobs where old, flaking paint needs to be removed, a pressure washer is a quick and effective method. However, be careful as the water jet can damage the surface of more delicate wood.

Once you have removed any paint from wood and prepped the surface, you need to take the next steps. Check out our guides on painting skirting boards, how to paint a panel door, and painting wooden doors to make the most of your freshly prepared surfaces.

A cordless drill and DIY go hand in hand, but there will be a time when even the best cordless drill simply doesn’t have the power to cope with a project. That’s when it's time to call in an SDS drill. This boasts what is known as a Slotted Drive System (hence the SDS moniker), which works differently from a standard cordless/corded drill with a grip chuck.

To keep it simple, it uses a different type of drill bit that gives the drill more hammer action. Making it ideal for heavy-duty tasks that a standard drill can’t handle.

Like most Black + Decker tools, this SDS hammer drill is aimed at DIYers and not professionals. So how would it tackle the DIY jobs I had lined up? Read on to find out.

Specification

• Motor: 650W
• Impact energy: 1.4J
• Cord length: 2 metres
• Weight: 2.3kg
• Chuck capacity: 2mm-13mm
• Chuck type: SDS+
• Guarantee: 2 years
• Features: 1 x keyed chuck, 8mm SDS-PLUS bit, 1 x 6mm SDS-PLUS bit, 1 x adjustable and removable side handle, Depth stop, 3 x drilling and hammer modes.

First impressions

The unboxing of a power tool is always a highlight for me, but it didn’t take long with this Black & Decker BEHS01 hammer drill. The drill itself sits in the box, no plastic wrap, along with a handle, gauge stop and a small cardboard box containing a drill chuck and SDS+ drill bits. From an environmental perspective (which, in my opinion, matters), there is little packaging to get rid of, and what little there is is 100% recyclable and chlorine-free.

The lack of a hard case or carry case is a minus point. All my other Black & Decker tools have always come with at least a carry bag. I’ve noted that some sellers show the drill with a carry case, but I’ve not seen one that actually comes with one. A shame as I would have liked a hard carry case.

The Black & Decker BEHS01 is weighty, but in SDS drill terms, it is relatively lightweight. It is well-balanced and has a soft-grip handle that holds the drill firmly in the hand. Other notable features are the thick 2m cord (generally means more power), the mode selector that locks into place (I liked that), a reverse switch, and a small mystery button, which I suspected would be a power lock button, but we will find out later. Overall, I liked what I saw.

Set up

A corded drill like the Black & Decker BEHS01, means you don’t have to worry about charging up a battery before you can get started. One less step in the setup process. And, as it comes with a UK plug you can plug it in straight away, hit the trigger, feel the power, and appreciate the noise.

Like most drills, there are three modes on the Black & Decker BEHS01. You’ve got drill, drill and hammer and hammer. You simply need to choose the one most appropriate for the job. The selector is a decent size, and operation is easy. A push button releases the selector and locks it in place when you reach your chosen mode. For me, I liked the added extra peace of mind.

Elsewhere, the keyless chuck is a breeze to use. Pull back the sleeve, insert your bit, and you are ready to go. It's the same process to release it. And let's not forget the side handle included to help steady the drill. This fits behind the chuck and can be placed in your favoured position thanks to the inbuilt notches. A small plastic nut tightens the handle in position, ready for action.

Finally, an interesting addition was the chuck adaptor for use with standard drill bits. I can see that Black + Decker are trying to add value and purpose, but I’ve already got my newly acquired Einhell cordless drill that does what I want so wasn't sure if this was necessary.

It does mean you can get extra power without having to splash out on SDS-friendly drill bits, but it looked awkward, and I just wasn’t sure about it.

Performance

The Black + Decker BEHS01 came with a couple of 6mm and 8mm SDS drill bits, which immediately limited how I could use it. So I invested in this 3-piece Erbauer SDS Plus Shank Chisel Set from Screwfix to test the Black + Decker BEHS01 more thoroughly. This included a 250 mm point chisel and 2 x flat chisels (20 x 250 mm and 40 x 250 mm).

To kick off testing, I decided to use my new chisel bits to break up some large blocks of concrete that I had dug out of the ground a while ago. I originally tried smashing them up with a lump hammer and a cold chisel, but without much success.

The mystery button turned out to be a lock button, which I decided to call into action straightaway. The hammer mode and the smaller chisel did a good job of breaking off chunks. It still took me a good 15 minutes to break up one large piece of concrete, but with no need to worry about swapping batteries, the drill didn’t miss a beat. A return visit a couple of days later got the same results on the remaining blocks.

Next, it was time to try the supplied drill bits. First up was drilling into concrete, which it handled with ease. Next, it was drilling into exterior brickwork for hooks, an absolute breeze. Then it was indoors to drill into walls in order to put up some shelf brackets; it couldn’t have been easier. All the masonry I tried, the drill powered through.

Next, it was back to the chisels and tile removal. I had two layers of tile on tile to tackle and the first layer came off pretty easily, but the original layer (stuck to the wall) was more challenging. But again, the Black + Decker BEHS01 was up to the task.

The final test was using the keyed chuck with standard drill bits. While it looked and felt awkward, (and I’m not a fan of keyed chucks, especially when I’ve lost the key), it worked fine and gave extra power where needed. In some cases, too much power compared to my trusty cordless drill.

The one issue I had with the Black + Decker BEHS01 was the attachable side handle. It was easy to fit, but no matter how much I tightened it, it still slipped off when tackling tougher tasks. For lighter tasks, I did however get to use the handy depth gauge that slips into the handle.

Who shoud buy it?

The Black + Decker BEHS01 is a great choice for DIYers who need extra power for projects that their cordless drill simply can’t handle. It's easy to struggle through using a cordless drill when it doesn’t quite have the power you need, but this isn’t good for your cordless drill and will shorten its working life.

An SDS type of drill is a smart addition for DIYers, and the Black + Decker BEHS01 is an affordable, easy-to-use tool that provides enough power to tackle most home DIY and home renovation projects. All you need to do is fit your chosen SDS bit, choose your mode and hit the power trigger.

Final verdict

I’d definitely recommend the Black & Decker BEHS01 to any DIYer who likes tackling lightweight demolition and drilling masonry jobs, and needs a bit more power than their favourite cordless drill offers. This is a great starting point for anyone who doesn’t own an SDS drill, or an occasional DIYer who wants to replace an old, worn-out drill.

The addition of the keyed chuck seems like an odd choice, but it works and lets your SDS drill double as an everyday drill that uses standard drill bits. Personally, I prefer to use my Einhell cordless drill for standard drilling and an SDS drill when a project calls for the extra power.

I would have liked to see at least a couple of chisel bits and a carry bag or hard case included, especially as it is aimed at DIYers. I think this would have made it the complete package. However, these are small points as you are getting an affordable SDS drill that will get stuff done, in fact, almost anything a DIYer will tackle.

Whenever you buy one of the best cordless drills, you’re often also paying for the potential to use the same battery and charger with other tools from the maker’s range. This Makita bundle gets you off to a flying start, giving you the DTD157 impact driver along with the DHP490 combi drill in a two-piece combo kit.

The two tools offer wide-ranging drilling and driving capabilities. With the DHP490 combi drill, you get drill, hammer drill and screwdriver modes, plus two gears, a variable speed trigger and torque up to 65Nm. Meanwhile, the DTD157 impact driver has a hex. 1/4" drive shank and can turn a wide range of machine screws and bolts, with hard impact and soft impact modes ranging up to a mighty 140Nm of torque. Both tools boast a brushless motor and Makita’s famously on-point ergonomics.

In theory, this two-in-one combo should therefore offer the best value for money, and strong performance of both tools. As an experienced DIYer, I put them both through the ropes to see if the investment was worth it.

Where to buy the Makita DLX2539ST 2-Piece Combo Kit LXT

Key specifications

• Cordless tool family: Makita LXT
• Intended uses include: drilling wood, plastic, metal and masonry; driving screws and lugs
• Battery capacity: 5.0Ah (x2)
• Voltage: 18V
• Drill speed: 0 - 500 / 1,900 min⁻¹
• Impact driver torque: 140Nm (max)

What's included

• Makita DHP490 cordless combi drill
• Makita DTD157 impact driver
• 2 x 18V, 5.0Ah lithium-ion batteries
• DC18SD battery charger
• Hard carry case

Both tools included are 18V models from Makita’s LXT range, and they can also be bought individually. The Makita DHP490Z 18V Cordless Brushless Combi Drill costs £68.50 from B&Q as a bare unit without the battery, while the Makita Impact Driver DTD157Z, also from B&Q and again as a bare unit, costs £62.99.

However, buying both tools together as the DLX2539ST kit could represent the best value, as also included in the set are two 18V, 5.0Ah lithium-ion batteries, the Makita Battery Charger LXT DC18SD (which can also charge 14.4V Makita batteries), and a slimline hardcase to store and carry the set.

How I tested

I tested the Makita DLX2539ST 2-Piece Combo Kit LXT by using it for an appropriate selection of DIY tasks, including drilling into brick and installing fixings.

1. Hammer-drilling holes in brick

Among the dozens of cordless combi drills I’ve tested, the Makita DHP490 from this kit is one of the very best at drilling into hard, dense materials like brick and breeze blocks. I’ve used many different models to drill holes in my home’s walls, which are built from very hard brick, and this has proven difficult with some drills. The DHP490 took around 30 seconds to perform the same job that demanded several minutes of struggle with competing models. My only gripe was that the chuck struggled to keep a secure hold of certain narrow drill bits.

You can see the sort of project that’s easily achievable with this drill in my article on how to hang shelves.

2. Driving screws

Both of these tools can drive screws. The DHP490 combi drill performs the task perfectly well, with its choice of 20 torque settings, two gears and the variable speed trigger collectively giving you excellent control over the force applied to the screw.

But it’s the DTD157 impact driver that really excels in this area. With a hex screwdriver bit securely installed in the collar, it turns fastenings with impressive power. I found this tool extremely helpful when working with long or stubborn screws that had proven impossible for me to turn using a screwdriver or combi drill. Just take care not to apply excessive force, as this can strip the drive on a screw – especially if the screw is relatively low-quality.

3. Drilling into wood

This is another job for the DHP490 cordless drill. I found that it worked quickly and powerfully when drilling into test pieces of hardwood and engineered board, boring neat holes with minimal effort. Where holes needed to be especially neat, I used the gear selector to choose the lower rev range for highly controlled drilling.

Ease of use

Even though this power tool kit is aimed at the more experienced end of the DIY market, it’s no more difficult to use than an equivalent set for occasional users or beginners. The controls, such as the direction selectors on both tools, and the mode selection collar on the cordless drill, work fluidly and intuitively. Charging the batteries is as easy as slotting one onto the charger.

If you’re new to using impact drivers, then you might face a slight learning curve with this component of the Makita kit. An impact driver typically has higher torque than a comparable cordless drill, which means drill bits and screws are subjected to stronger force. That’s generally a good thing, but it means you should use high-quality screws and extras such as this Makita E-12011 10 Piece Impact Black Bit Set from Amazon to minimise the risk of these components breaking, or the screws being stripped. In routine use, the DTD157 impact driver is even simpler to use than the DHP490 combi drill.

Battery performance

The Makita DLX2539ST kit never let me down in terms of battery life. Between the two included batteries you have ten amp-hours of work potential, which proved more than enough to get me through a day of DIY. I found that the included charger could recharge one of these hefty batteries within less than two hours, so there’s scope to power one of them back up during a mid-renovation meal break.

As with all lithium-ion batteries, the ones supplied with this kit will noticeably degrade after a number of years (or after sustained heavy use). You’ll maximise their good performance by following good battery maintenance practices, such as keeping the batteries charged to a moderate level and storing them at room temperature.

Who should buy it?

Clearly, this twin-set of tools is most relevant to users who will make good use of an impact driver, as well as a cordless combi drill. If you’re a keen DIYer and you often need to drive large or awkward screws, then using the impact driver will make this easier.

With this Makita bundle, you can work quickly by using the drill to make holes, and the impact driver to install fastenings into them. As there are two batteries included, you won’t even need to switch this component between actions (unless one battery is recharging).

On the other hand, I wouldn’t recommend this kit to casual DIYers who would rarely use the impact driver. If this sounds like you, then you might be better off buying the Makita DHP490SFX2 18V 1 x 3.0Ah Li-Ion LXT Brushless Cordless Combi Drill & Drill Bit Set from Screwfix that comes with the same drill, plus a high quality set of drill bits and other accessories in place of the impact driver.

Final verdict

True to form, Makita has delivered an impressive and capable power tool kit. The combi drill and the impact driver are both excellent tools in their own right, and when used together during complicated DIY projects they can bring a welcome boost in speed and convenience. Battery life and recharging are excellent, and the hard carry case is a smart and practical solution for keeping the set in good and orderly condition.

I have only a few gripes to mention – a drill chuck that’s not ideal for the narrowest drill bits, and a price that will put off some occasional DIYers – but neither is a deal breaker. The Makita DLX2539ST 2-Piece Combo Kit LXT is another powerful piece of evidence that Makita is the ultimate ‘prosumer’ brand for DIYers who are taking their home renovations seriously.

Robot vacuum and mop technology has taken a major leap in recent years, with brands competing on suction power, navigation and automated cleaning systems.

I own a range of models, but the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete Robot Vacuum Cleaner (available from Curry's) is meant to stand out from the crowd with stronger suction, extended mop reach and improved obstacle handling.

I put it through real-world testing to see how it performs in a typical home environment and whether it really stacks up against the best on the market.

Design, specs and key features

The MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete is positioned as a high-end robot vacuum and mop with a focus on deep cleaning and edge coverage.

It features a high suction system rated up to around 28,000Pa, placing it among the strongest on the market and ahead of many competitors in its class. For comparison, models like the eufy Omni C28 (which I also tested) typically sit around 15,000Pa, while Roborock and Ecovacs' flagship units often range between 7,000–12,000Pa.

A key differentiator is its extendable mop arm system, which actively pushes outward during cleaning to reach edges and corners. This is something most circular robot vacuums struggle with due to their fixed round mop footprints.

The Z60 Ultra Roller Complete includes a full self-maintaining docking station handling dust emptying, mop washing, drying and water refilling.

A nice added feature was that it also came with replacement dust bags, mop pads, cleaning solution, filters and rollers, reducing early running costs compared with many rivals where consumables often need replacing within months.

Cleaning performance and real-world testing

I tested the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete on a range of floors and I have to say it delivered strong results, with deep cleaning performance that was noticeably more effective than its competitors.

It handled dust, fine debris, and pet hair effectively, and the mop system provided consistent water distribution without obvious streaking.

However, where it stood out most was edge and corner cleaning. The extendable mop arms allowed it to reach into areas that circular systems typically miss, giving a more complete clean along walls and furniture edges compared with standard robotic mops.

In testing on thick black carpet and hallway transitions, the vacuum demonstrated strong adaptability across different floor types and obstacles. It is capable of climbing thresholds of around 4.5cm, with manufacturer claims suggesting up to 8cm in multi-step configurations, placing it well above many competing robot vacuums.

This makes it particularly effective in homes with mixed flooring and higher doorway transitions, where many circular robot vacuums can struggle or become stuck.

That said, cleaning time could be slow. A single 10m² room on deep clean mode took up to 30 minutes, particularly when the robot was performing repeated scanning passes or re-checking layout data.

Navigation, limitations and usability issues

Despite its strong cleaning ability, navigation is where the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete shows its weaknesses.

In testing, it frequently bumped into objects and occasionally struggled with tight spaces, with wheel entrapment happening more often than expected for a premium model. This is less common in systems such as Roborock Qrevo (available on Amazon) and Ecovacs' Deebot X11 (also on Amazon), which typically use more advanced obstacle avoidance.

It also had a tendency to re-clean areas unnecessarily, even outside of deep clean mode, which increased total cleaning time and reduced efficiency in smaller spaces.

Mapping and scanning were also slow, especially in unfamiliar environments, making initial setup and first runs noticeably longer than rival systems. Battery drain was also significant under high-power or deep clean modes, meaning it performed best in open-plan layouts where it could return to its dock more easily.

Is the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete the best robot vacuum cleaner?

This model delivers strong deep cleaning performance, impressive edge coverage and one of the most complete automation packages currently available on the market.

Its extendable mop system and high suction power give it a clear advantage over circular rivals in detailed cleaning tasks, particularly along edges and hard-to-reach areas.

However, its navigation inconsistencies, occasional object collisions and slow cleaning cycles mean it is not the most efficient option for every home. While it performs best in open-plan spaces where it can operate continuously from its dock, it may feel less refined in cluttered or complex environments.

Overall, the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete Robot Vacuum Cleaner is a powerful cleaning system that competes strongly at the top end of the market, but whether it is the “best” depends on whether you prioritise deep cleaning power over speed and navigation precision.

Found this helpful? You may also want to read our buying guide on the best vacuum cleaners for builder's dust or our review of the Henry HVR160.

Tiling around a toilet isn’t easy. The curves and bends provide a challenge for any DIYer. Get it wrong, and you will have to break out a new tile and start over. Or you could be spending forever removing tiny slivers of tile to get a good fit.

Whether you are laying floor tiles, wall tiles or using peel-and-stick tiles, the principles remain very much the same. But the techniques to achieve the curve and fit you need can differ depending on different factors.

Here, I explain the three steps you need to follow and the different methods you can use to try and achieve the perfect fit when cutting tiles around your toilet.

Step one: marking the curve

Cutting curves in a tile needs to be done accurately in order to ensure a good fit, and it all starts with marking out the curve correctly

These are the four tried and tested methods I've tried and tested.

1. Create a cardboard template

Creating a template is an old-school method, but it works well. However, you need to be patient to get the best results. Stephen Russell, independent tiler of Ashley Cross Tiling, says, “use a piece of cardboard to mark the curve and cut to shape. Don’t rush the process. If you do, you might need to start again.”

First, place the tile onto the cardboard, mark it with a pencil and then cut the cardboard with large wallpaper scissors. Alternatively, you can use a sharp steel snap-off knife, such as this Wolfcraft Metal Snap-Off Blade Knife from Amazon.

Now measure from the edge of the tile you are laying next to the toilet or object. Start at one end of the tile, take measurements every 50mm, and mark them on the template. This gives you a rough outline of the curve.

Next, make a cut on the template from the edge to be removed, just past the marks you made previously. Do this every 10mm. You’ll now have a set of strands that are flexible. Place the template where the tile is going to go, and don’t forget the gap for the grout if using stone or ceramic tiles.

Finally, press around the area (I use the end of a pencil) where the template meets the curve to create a crisp crease. Mark the shape with a pencil, pick up the template and cut along the mark. Put the template in place and check that it matches up as expected. If too tight to the curve, trim and check again. When happy, transfer to the tile.

An alternative is to use construction paper; the process is the same, but the material is usually slightly easier to cut. This method works a treat as long as you take your time. And don’t forget the grout gap.

2. Use a contour gauge

A contour gauge, such as this Dodowin contour gauge profile tool from Amazon (which I have), is a quick and easy way to get an accurate curve. Simply hold in place and push against the curve. Then transfer to a tile and mark with a pencil.

A contour gauge doesn’t have much depth; mine is around 70mm. However, you can turn and use the full length (in my case, 25cm) of the gauge to profile a longer curve.

Shop these tools for great curved tile cuts

3. Measure and mark

If you don’t have a piece of cardboard or a contour gauge handy, you can go freestyle and just measure and mark. I simply take a measurement every 20mm and mark on the tile. Then, join the marks freehand.

This method works well, but you need to take your time, as there’s no room for error. And don’t forget the grout gap. I use a straight edge and a pencil and mark the gap on the floor (or wall), so I don’t forget where to measure from.

4. Homemade hack

I’ve also used a child's school compass as a quick way to create a curve on a template, which you can transfer to a tile. I’ve also used it to mark plank-style tiles directly. This works well on the long side of an object (like a toilet) with a gentle curve.

I generally use a pencil to mark the curve, but a felt tip can work if the pencil isn’t working well, and the tile doesn’t stain.

Step two: Marking the tile to cut

There are a few options to mark a tile so you know where to cut. This will depend on the type of tile. “Use a pencil, as a felt tip pen can sometimes stain certain types of tile," warns Stephen Russell.

Felt tips are typically used on glazed tiles because they can be easily wiped clean. "Make sure you double check they wipe off cleanly on a test tile first," adds Harriet Goodacre, interiors and tiling expert from Topps Tiles, "as you don’t want any unsightly marks left on your brand new tiles."

The other option is to use a tile scribe. “A tile scribe can be used to lightly score the surface of the tile where you need to cut it, explains Harriet. "It’s especially useful when you want a guide that won’t rub away during the cutting process.

“The key is visibility without going too deep," she notes, "as too heavy scoring can lead to chipping.”

Step three: cutting the curve on the tile

There are a few options for cutting a curve once the tile has been marked out. “For curved cuts, it all comes down to how tight the shape and bend is and what the tile’s made from,” advises Harriet Goodacre.

For small curves, a pair of tile nippers is usually sufficient. For larger curves, both our experts, and I, recommend an angle grinder.

“Ease the angle grinder through the marked line using the weight of the angle grinder; do not use added force,” says Stephen Russell.

“Keep running through the angle grinder several times, don’t cut right through the tile when you start," he adds, noting how you also need to make sure you use a masonry disc to cut with.

Alternatively, you can use an electric tile cutter such as this Titan Electric Tile Cutter from Screwfix. This only allows straight cuts, so the technique is to make cuts every 10-20mm from the edge of the tile to the marked-out curve. Ideally, use a tile scribe to mark the curve, then you can snap off each thin tile strand and finish with tile nippers and a metal file such as this TARIST Half Round Metal File from Amazon, for smooth edges

For small, more intricate curves, you can use a tile saw. Good for wall tiles, but you might find you struggle with thicker floor tiles.

You might have seen a few videos online where a tiler uses a manual tile cutter, such as this Vitrex Heavy Duty Tile Cutter from Toolstation, to cut a curve. I can promise you this takes plenty of practice and is best avoided for most DIYers.

If you’re tiling a bathroom floor, you’ll need to know how many tiles you'll need. Especially if cutting curves around a toilet. Find out where to get the best deals with our where to buy bathroom floor tiles guide, or, for inspiration on what to buy, check out our bathroom floor tile ideas.

A cordless drill is an essential tool for any DIYer, so choosing a good one is important. Invest in a poor choice, and it won’t be long before you’ll be looking at spending again. The latest cordless drill to cross my path is the Einhell TP-CD 18/50, an everyday drill aimed at DIYers.

This is the first time I’ve encountered an Einhell drill, so I was excited to see what it had to offer. As a package, it’s making all the right noises, and it comes in at a very tempting price point.

Would it finally be time to say goodbye to my faithful old Black and Decker cordless drill and let the Einhell take its place? Time to find out.

Buy the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 drill today

Spec and features

• Motor type: Brushless motor
• Torque: 50 Nm
• Gears: 2
• Battery type: Lithium Ion
• Battery voltage: 18v
• Weight: 2.35kg
• Chuck capacity: 2mm-13mm
• Features: LED work light, torque adjustment collar, battery level indicator, 1 x hard carry case, 1 x drill body, 1x battery charger, 2 x 2.0Ah batteries, 1 x belt clip, instruction manual

First impressions

Who doesn’t love a power tool that comes with its own hard case? Any type of case is a winner, as it helps protect a power tool, but the Einhell hard case gives the impression of being a long-term friend to the Einhell drill.

It's a solid plastic case with a bright red lid emblazoned with the brand name. At least it will be easy to find. Inside, it is lined with egg box foam padding (one side) and flat foam padding on the other. This ensures that the drill, batteries and charger aren’t thrown around and damaged when on the move.

The drill body feels sturdy and well-built, and sits neatly in the hand, with the rubberised grip giving a secure feel. The LED light instantly makes an appearance when the trigger sets the drill into life (my battery was charged and ready to go). Can I switch this off? Not sure (yet), but it might be good if I could switch it off when not needed as it would help save battery life.

Setting up

As you might expect, there’s not much work involved in setting up a cordless drill. Slide in the battery and you’re ready to go. The battery was already charged, so it could be used straight out of the box which is a nice touch.

What you do need to do is familiarise yourself with the torque selector and the selector switch. The selector switch lets you choose between driving, drilling and impact drilling (the hammer function).

You will need to combine this with the most suitable torque setting to help ensure you get the best from the Einhell TP-CD 18/50. To add a little more to the mix, there are two gears which help you fine-tune performance. There’s a lot going on, so if you are an inexperienced DIYer, you should read the instruction manual fully before you start.

Performance

The fun part of any review is using the product itself, and a new cordless drill is always going to see plenty of action. To kick off, I thought I’d ease myself into using the Einhell TP-CD 18/50with some simple wood screwing tasks. There are no drill bits or a bit holder included, so I used what I already had. The 13mm chuck is easy to use, but slightly different from other drills I’ve used. But it did what it needed to do, without any problems.

I started with 100mm screws for screwing fence panels into wooden posts. With the screw selector in position and the torque setting set to 11, off I went. This worked as expected, but on tougher parts, I had to turn the torque up to the maximum level to finish.

I struggled with one screw in particular, so I switched over to my old cordless drill to see how it compared. The Einhell TP-CD 18/50 was definitely doing a better job, probably thanks to its extra torque (50 Nm compared with 40 Nm).

Like all good drills, the drill stops when it reaches its managed torque level. This ensures you have more control over the drill and don’t go too deep with a screw, which could split the wood. So start low and turn up the torque until you get the level you want.

Tackling heavy duty DIY drilling tasks

Switching the selector to drill or hammer mode eliminates the need to choose a torque setting, with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 automatically switching to maximum output. Perfect for the next set of DIY tasks I had in mind.

Next up was drilling into exterior brickwork, and using my spade drill bit to create recesses in a fence post, ready for the concrete screws. The Einhell TP-CD 18/50 zipped through the timber with no problem.

Switching over to my DeWALT masonry drill bits, putting it into second gear, the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 powered into the brickwork with relative ease. At one point, the drill bit did stick, but I simply retightened the chuck and carried on.

Next up was a move indoors to put up some heavy-duty shelf brackets. Drilling into my interior walls has been hard work in the past. But the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 provided all the power I needed to drill deep enough for the Rawl plugs and screws to be inserted.

I also managed to do all the tasks mentioned without having to swap over the battery. So, I decided to keep going on other DIY tasks to get a better idea of battery life. Overall, I have to say I was very happy with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50's performance so far.

Shop these tools to use with a cordless drill

Battery life

Battery life is key for any cordless tool, and the 18V 2.0Ah batteries supplied with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 didn’t disappoint. The charger features a set of easy-to-understand icons that make it clear what stage the charging is at. Red and green LEDs make sure you don’t get confused.

Charging times using the supplied charger were pretty swift, taking just 40 minutes to reach a full charge and be ready to go. This would be ideal if you only had one battery, but with two batteries on offer, I always had a fully charged battery ready to replace the other when needed.

You might think that quick charging times mean short working times, but this wasn’t the case with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50. A fully charged battery lasted around 45 minutes to an hour. In real terms, that meant I tackled a whole host of DIY jobs over the weekend and didn’t need to replace the battery. And when I did, I had a fully charged battery ready to replace.

A trio of LED lights on the battery can be activated with a quick press of a button to indicate remaining power. Confusingly, the lights were red, rather than green, but I can live with that.

Final verdict

If you’re looking for an everyday drill that can tackle pretty much any DIY task that you can throw at it, then the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 Cordless Brushless Combi Drill is definitely one you need to add to your list. It offers plenty of torque (50Nm) for a standard cordless drill, which sits at the top end of what you usually get at this level.

For less than £100, you get a solid drill, two batteries, a charger, and a hard case, which, in my opinion, makes it good value for money. You might not get any drill or screwdriver bits with it, which would have been nice, but a charger and two batteries more than make up for this. On the plus side, you can choose the bits you need rather than getting a bunch you may never use.

Throw in quick charge times and decent working times, and there’s little that I didn't like about the Einhell TP-CD 18/50. How long it stays as my number one drill, only time will tell.

Not every DIYer has the same definition of budget when looking to buy power tools, so for clarity, in this article, I’m going to focus mainly on budget brands and power tools that sit at the low end of the price scale. However, I have included a well-known power tool brand for balance and curiosity.

Just remember that budget doesn’t have to mean bad. Better-known brands like Makita and DEWALT undoubtedly produce good-quality tools, but they are typically aimed beyond the DIY market and are built for everyday use, meaning they cost more. Budget power tools rarely have the same build quality, but you can still find quality for DIY use.

Here I share the 5 budget tools I've been using for years and what to consider when shopping for your own affordable tool kit.

Five power tools I didn’t spend big on and are still going today

1. Black+Decker cordless drill

A drill is the king of power tools for DIYers. It’s one tool that every level of DIYer owns, and it's often the first power tool they buy. It's been a while since I bought my first power tool, but my current cordless drill from Black+Decker has been with me for over ten years. And it didn’t cost big bucks back when I bought it.

However, it's been with me so long that the specific model I have is no longer available. But the current incarnation (see below) is well-priced and a great choice for basic drilling and screwing.

If you want something more powerful, then I can recommend the Einhell TE-CD 18 Cordless Combi Drill (available from Screwfix). I’ve just got this, and I’m liking it. Hopefully, it will last as long as my existing Black+Decker model.

2. Black+Decker detail sander

I know it's another Black+Decker power tool, but I’ve always found them to be a good choice for DIY jobs, and this handy little detail sander works a treat and costs just over £20. I’ve had mine for over five years, and it’s done my stairs, spindles and bannisters. It’s also sanded dozens of doors, door frames, architraves, window frames, window sills and skirting boards. In fact, most of the woodwork in my home – and it's still going strong.

The only things I've had to change are the plug (I broke it) and the sandpaper pads. And if it does go wrong, I‘ve only got to shell out another £22.

3. Von Haus orbital sander

I had never heard of VonHaus before their orbital sander made its way into my hands. But I needed a new sander, read a few reviews, and thought I’d take a chance. I can’t remember how much I paid for it, but it wasn’t a lot, and I’ve had it for around four years. It’s been a faithful companion to my detail sander, so it's seen a lot of action.

Alongside all the jobs my detail sander has tackled, this orbital sander has done even more. It has sanded plywood and MDF sheets, refreshed my garden furniture, and even helped sand floorboards.

Its easy-to-use variable-speed feature is very helpful when sanding and probably helps prolong its life, as it's not always in top gear. And, like my Black+Decker mouse, it's still going strong, and the current price point (just under £30) makes it worth considering.

4. MacAllister circular saw

MacAllister was another brand I had never heard of when I bought their circular saw. But my thinking was a little different. I needed a circular saw, and on one of my many trips to B&Q, I spotted the Mac Allister 190mm corded circular saw at a very affordable price. So I bought it.

Here we are over three years later, and it's still working fine. It has cut through numerous sheets of plywood and MDF, helping me build wardrobes, shelving units, shelves, flooring, and timber partitions.

As you might expect, it's not cordless, so you’ll need an extension lead (like this STATUS 2 Socket Cable Reel from Amazon) to ensure you’re in the right place when you need to be. The blade is an all-rounder with 24 teeth which is great for ripping through timber and board, but you might need something more subtle if looking for a finer cut.

5. Makita mitre saw

I have to be honest and say that my Makita mitre saw isn’t at the budget end of the price scale, but I think it's definitely good value for money. This is one of my most recent acquisitions, and I decided to invest a bit more as I had the budget to do so. And I was curious, and wanted to see the quality I would get from a well-known brand.

It's fair to say I wasn’t disappointed. This saw is sturdy and well-built, with a general air of quality. The Makita LS0714N/1 190mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw (available from Screwfix) has helped me build custom fence panels and lay wooden floors, ensuring I get crisp, clean and even edges, and angles where needed.

If you don’t want to spend a lot, there are plenty of cheaper alternatives that will do a decent job. Worx and Metabo (like this Metabo KGS 216 Slide Compound Mitre Saw from Amazon) are good mid-range options, while Evolution power tools are a good budget option as well.

How to choose budget power tools

If you are an occasional DIYer, you will probably use your power tools only a few times a year. Even if you’re a keen DIYer, it's unlikely all your power tools will be called into action every weekend.

And, when you do call upon your power tools, some will be called into action more than others. For example, a drill is probably going to get a lot more use than an angle grinder, so it makes sense not to buy really cheap tools that you use the most. Read reviews and take a chance; most of the time you won’t be disappointed.

I’ve bought a lot of budget power tools, and they rarely let me down. And when they have, it's been very soon after purchasing, so I’ve been able to take them back under the warranty and get them replaced.

My general advice is always to consider how much use a power tool will get and buy accordingly. If it's going to get a lot of use, spend at the top end of your budget. If unsure, buy a budget brand and see how it goes. What's the worst that can happen? It might only last a couple of years. Alternatively, it could last for years like my budget power tools have.

Also, compare budget brand prices with cheaper versions of well-known brands. You might get something that costs a bit more, but may last longer and offers more features.

Finally, I suggest you buy high-quality accessories such as drill bits and sanding discs. Accessories supplied with budget models are, as a general rule, low in quality.

FAQs

Who makes budget power tools?

Take a search on Amazon, and we guarantee that you’ll find a whole range of power tool brands you have never heard of alongside the more established ones. Take a trip to your local B&Q, and you’ll notice some very competitively priced power tools under the MacAllister name. They also have a brand called Erbauer. Screwfix has a brand called Titan, and even Lidl has some smart power tool bargains under the Parkside banner. These are all own-brand power tools.

Most budget tools come from manufacturers that already make power tools. As an example, the Parkside brand (found in Lidl) is owned by the Einhell group, based in Germany, which produces its own power tools. B&Q and Screwfix are both part of the Kingfisher group. So it's safe to assume many of their power tools come from the same source.

Brands like B&Q with their own brand power tools still want a good reputation, so it makes sense that you are still getting a decent product when you opt for a more budget price tag.

The right power tools make any DIY project go that bit smoother. Call your sanders into action and get your prep right for must-see paint trends, matching skirting boards with your interior style and making the most of some smart wall panelling ideas.

You might think that owning four electric sanders is just plain greedy. Surely one is enough? Or maybe two if you are feeling extravagant. But it's not how many sanders you own that matters. What matters is that you have the right sander for whatever sanding project you are working on.

Use the wrong sander, and you will make the task more difficult and most likely not get the finish you should. I’ve built up my collection of sanders as DIY projects have come and gone, and my advice to you would be to do the same.

The following types of sander are what I have in my collection, and I find that each one is perfect for a different type of DIY task.

Orbital sander – my go-to option

If you only have one sander in your DIY toolkit, I’d make it an orbital sander.

The best orbital sanders are a great choice for most sanding jobs, especially on flat areas such as doors, window sills, tabletops and wooden kitchen worktops. It's also a good choice for sanding skirting boards.

For decorative items, such as architrave or ogee skirting boards, I use an orbital sander to tackle the flat areas before switching to an alternative option.

A key feature of random orbital sanders is that the sanding pad spins and oscillates simultaneously, which helps produce a smoother finish with fewer sanding marks. However, you will notice the marks if using coarser grits.

The best way to get rid of these is to progressively use finer grades if you need a smooth, mark-free finish for surfaces that will be varnished or polished rather than painted. I suggest you use an 80- or 120-grit for the first run, followed by a 240-grit to finish.

Great for: doors, tabletops, wooden kitchen worktops, sanding down wall filler.

Detail sander – when detail comes calling

An orbital sander may be a great all-rounder, but when it comes to 90-degree angles, its round sanding pad simply doesn’t fit. This is when you need to embrace the triangular sanding pad of a detail sander.

A detail sander is perfect for a whole host of DIY jobs. The most common jobs I use it for are stairs and doors. My latest detail sander is a BLACK+DECKER Mouse (available from B&Q), which has a compact design and fits neatly in the hand, making it easy to get into corners and edges on stairs and ideal for panels on a door.

But these are not the only areas I use it. I’ve used it on flat stair spindles, bannisters, furniture, corners and edges on walls and ceiling, for sanding MDF edges and small filled wall holes, among others.

Some detail sanders, including mine, have an extension (known as a ‘finger’ or similar). These fit on top of the pad, making it easier to get into tight corners and areas like door slats. If you don’t have one, check whether your sander has the capability, and check online for one like this OTOTEC 2PCS Sander Finger Platen on Amazon.

Great for: door panels, board edges, stairs, small filled holes.

Sheet sander – ready to finish up

The beauty of a sheet sander is that it typically has a larger sanding pad than other sanders (like this Makita BO3710 Sheet Sander from Amazon). This covers more area with each pass, effectively removing more material faster. However, some sheet sanders have a smaller square pad, which makes them great for straight edges and corners.

My sheet sander, which has the larger rectangular pad, is used much less than my orbital or detail sander. I typically use it for sanding plywood and MDF to get a fine finish on the face of the board and to smooth out the edges to match.

Another bonus is that I don’t need specific sanding discs to fit the sander, like an orbital sander, detail sander, or belt sander. I just buy sheets of sandpaper in the grits I want and cut them to fit the pad. This works out cheaper.

Great for: large flat areas such as doors, walls, boards (plywood, MDF, OSB), corners and edges.

Belt sander – when you need more power and speed

Belt sanders are not for fine finishing, and while a useful sander to have, in my opinion, they are not a necessary purchase unless you have a DIY project that benefits from what they have to offer. And that's exactly why I have a belt sander.

The reason I purchased a belt sander (like this Lumberjack 4" Belt Sander from B&Q) was to give my old parquet floor a refresh. I didn’t want the cost of replacing the floor or destroying the original floor. There’s an art to using a belt sander to sand floors, so I suggest you get a few practice runs in before starting on flooring that will be on display. It's easy to get unwanted ridges.

Since then, I’ve used my belt sander to level out floorboards, remove paint from old doors (again, wanted to keep costs down and retain the original doors), and finish off old boarded floors (remove leftover glue debris and rough areas, ready for new flooring). They are typically more expensive than other sanders, but I would say they are definitely worth the investment.

Great for: levelling floorboards, smoothing out rough timber, material removal on larger areas. It can also be used to sand engineered wood flooring.

Shop these sanders and add to your toolbox

Multi-tool sander attachment – a bonus addition for greater flexibility

I know I’ve already covered most bases when it comes to sanding, but alongside my four sanders, I do have a multitool with a sanding attachment. The sanding pad on my Black + Decker MultiEvo Multitool is very much the standard triangle shape, making it ideal for small detail jobs.

Do you need one? Not if you already own a detail sander. However, if you already own a multitool, it will most likely have a sanding attachment, so you don’t need to invest in a detail sander. I’m lucky to have both, so I use whichever is closest at hand and has the right grit sandpaper for whatever I’m working on.

Great for: panelled doors, wall repairs, shelf edges, window sills, door frames, skirting boards

Do you really need four different sanders?

There isn’t a simple yes or no answer to this question. What you do need is a sander that fits the job you are doing. If looking to remove material, fast, from a surface, a belt sander is a more obvious choice than a detail sander.

However, as a general guide, for most common DIY projects, I would recommend a random orbital sander and detail sander as the best combo. This deals with most flat surfaces, corners, and edges. However, if you are straying into larger, more heavy-duty DIY tasks, then sheet sanders and belt sanders will be needed.

I would start with an orbital and detail sander and add as needed. Also, if you do a lot of sanding, I would suggest stepping up the quality ladder and making a larger investment in your tools. Brands such as DeWalt and Makita are quality DIY products. If you really want to spend big, Festool and Mirka are good brands to consider.

Sanding is all part of the preparation process, commonly used to get wood ready for painting. Sanding walls can also be a smart move to ensure the surface is smooth and ready for paint application.

Sanding can obviously be a messy job, but there are ways to make sanding less dusty, such as using a sander that captures dust at source.

Spring is when most households start cleaning up their homes ready for summer – but there is one job I tend to strongly dislike, and that is pressure washing.

I've found it often difficult to find all the parts when you first get it out of the garage, before ending up being a job that takes all day, leaves you soaking wet and filthy dirty.

So when I was offered the chance to try a fancy new pressure washer from Kärcher that claimed to be "comfortable", I must admit I was suspicious about whether it really could make this particular task less nasty.

The Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium, which was launched in January, certainly looked smart from all the promotional material online. With its black and yellow ergonomic look, five-year warranty and 145 bar of pressure, it seemed to have an edge compared to some of other best pressure washers in a similar high-end price bracket.

Unboxing

The box the pressure washer came in was substantial, but despite being heavy, I was able to move it myself from where the delivery man left it, using the plastic straps.

The bright, yellow design was smart and immediately identifiable as holding a Kärcher pressure washer. This was great in terms of visual appeal, but worth noting to be aware of perhaps not leaving a newly-delivered box unattended outside a property in any crime-prone areas. You wouldn't want your expensive new machine being stolen before having the chance to even use it.

When it came to unboxing, this was straightforward and I was especially impressed that there was very little plastic inside, just one sheet, plus the straps to hold the box together on the exterior. The pressure washer was thoughtfully cushioned with cardboard to avoid any damage in transit instead, with all the different parts wedged together so they didn't move around too much. The instruction manual was on top, and easy to find on opening.

Ease of setting up

The Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium came with an instruction manual that was reasonably easy-to-follow from the diagrams, although it was a little unclear which part of the pressure washer to start constructing first, possibly because it didn't actually matter in what order it was put together. This took around 30 minutes.

Overall I found the assembly straight forward, with the only slightly fiddly bit being affixing the hose to the trigger gun, which is designed to be removable for storage. I didn't fully understand the need for the yellow pouch on the front, but suspect this might be to do with storing additional features that can be purchased.

I was liked the way the universal cleaner slotted straight into the machine ready for automatic dispersal through a specific setting on the rotating nozzle on the lance. I was looking forward to giving this a go.

First impressions

Once the Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium was fully constructed, I gave it a good look over before putting it to the test by cleaning my very dirty patio. It didn't fail to impress, being just as slick in person compared to how it looked online.

The build-quality was excellent – made from 25% recycled materials – with no sign of any flimsy parts, or anything that looked weak enough to break. The fixings were well oiled, and all the buttons had a nice firm feel to them as they were pressed. One thing to watch was the grey trigger on the lance did catch my skin once, which nipped a bit.

The product has been well thought out in its design. The grey hose can be removed from the trigger gun (although this took some fiddling around with to work out how), with a reel for tidying it away when not in use. Meanwhile, the lance itself could be broken down into two sections with two holders on the front to slot them into when packed away.

My only slight surprise was how heavy the machine was at 13.8kg, making it rather cumbersome to lift over the gravel and steps in my garden, without bashing it into things accidentally. The handle on the top was useful for lifting, and any flat surfaces were easy to tackle as the K5 had a decent pair of wheels, and the ability to extend the handle to pull it or push it along.

Ease of use

I had a very dirty patio to test the Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium on, but this pressure washer is suitable for all sorts of things, from cleaning decking, removing weeds from a patio or even washing your car on a lower setting.

You generally aren't advised to use pressure washers on some patios, due to the chance of too much force blowing any crumbling mortar or grout away, or even causing damage to the slabs themselves. However, we only laid this patio last year and it was a robust limestone, so I was fairly confident that the grout and slabs were in good shape.

Despite the slabs being fairly newly-laid, I was surprised by just how dirty they had become over winter, which was in part because we have lots of trees overhanging it, it is fairly low lying, and we have lots of animals unleashing their business on it (the dachshund and chickens being the worst offenders).

Wheeling out the Kärcher K5 for the pressure washing

I used an outdoor plug socket to plug in the K5, and was relieved to find that the cable had enough length (five metres) to not need a series of extension leads, as I have found with cheaper models in the past. The cable tidy on the machine was also well designed, enough to be able to undo just enough length for what I needed, rather than having to pull the whole lot off. This made it much easier to use.

I struggled to attach the trigger gun to the grey hose until I turned the electric supply off, which I don't know if that was a safety feature, or just me failing to put it together. I then connected my yellow garden hose water supply to the black hose pipe connector on the machine and turned the tap on. This is where I have ended up making myself soaking wet with cheap pressure washers in the past, and was thrilled to see that the connection held perfectly with the K5 Comfort Premium. My garden hose didn't ping off, or come loose to squirt water in my face.

Making a start on washing the patio

Finally, I was ready to give the pressure washer a go on the dirty patio.

I started with the lowest pressure washer setting – the "reduced pressure flat jet", selected by turning the nozzle on the end of the lance. This wetted the patio but didn't really cut through the grime, not the fault of the pressure washer I might add, but it did show just how tough the dirt on the patio was going to be to remove.

Next, I gave the "rotary nozzle" a go, which is like a circle of water and I guess the best setting to use when you have a patio cleaning accessory brush attached, that can be purchased separately. This was a little more powerful than the previous setting, but again not quite powerful enough to lift the sludge and algae off.

Deploying the detergent

The next symbol on the nozzle had bubbles on it and was the detergent setting. After twisting it to the bubbles and hitting the trigger, the product automatically flowed out in a flat jet that wasn't too powerful, or too gentle.

This enabled me to easily and quickly cover the already wet patio slabs with the universal detergent, which I could tell worked well as you could smell the detergent.

It's worth noting that this universal detergent is included with the K5 Comfort Premium, but you can also buy specific detergents that fix to the pressure washer for stone, wood, and cars.

Using the high pressure setting

When I finally got to it, the high-power setting really was a beast, pumping out an impressive 145 bar of pressure in a flat jet, and whipping any dirt, algae and other nasties right off the stone. The grime came off quickly too, leaving a clear line between the cleaned and uncleaned areas. Afterwards, I switched to a lower pressure setting to wash the dirty water off the slabs and finish the job.

The hose pipe connector on the pressure washer held firm throughout, and I didn't get squirted in the face with water once throughout the job, which was a win.

I did have a bit of difficulty when I fully uncoiled the grey pressure washer hose from the reel, as it was a little stiff, making it tricky to straighten out. This meant it did tangle with my yellow garden hose water supply a little. That said, I have yet to find a pressure washer that doesn't do this. Importantly, the hose was very robust and well-made with a rubber-like texture, and therefore unlikely to ever split with normal use.

Final thoughts

My patio is fairly large, and cleaning it with the K5 Comfort Premium pressure washer was actually very speedy, taking an hour maximum to do the whole thing. It was sparkling clean too, with no damage – plus even the dog decided it was so clean she went off to the grass to do her business there instead.

As someone who does not enjoy pressure washing, I did find it surprisingly satisfying blasting the jet at the patio and making nice clean lines in the dirt as I went. And while you will still get a mild arm ache at holding the lance, I did not get soaking wet and dirty for once (whoop), plus it was easy to pack away afterwards. I gave the K5 unit a clean by spraying it over on a low pressure setting, before reeling up the grey hose, tidying the electric cable away, and wheeling it back to the garage.

It was much faster to clean the patio with the Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium compared to the faffing around with models I've used in the past. This meant the body ache I usually feel was hugely reduced, and I saved far more time in setting it up, carrying out the job and also packing it away.

For me, this absolutely justified how the machine gets its name as the "comfort premium", because getting any pressure washing job done swiftly is a lot more comfortable (both physically and mentally) than spending hours and hours trying to finish the job, and clean yourself up afterwards.

Professional carpenters tend to have many types of saws in their workshop – but if you’re a keen DIYer or hobbyist woodworker, budget or space restrictions might mean you need to choose: track saw vs table saw.

There are similarities between these tools – both options are among the easiest ways to get straight cuts with a circular saw blade. However, you’ll also find important differences between the two, and using the most appropriate option will contribute to the safety, ease and success of your projects.

This article is here to help you choose the right type of saw for your projects: track saw or table saw. Read on for expert advice provided by a saw brand and a power tool retailer, plus some recommended tools of each type.

Table saws

A table saw has a fixed circular blade, which is mounted into a table that provides a worksurface to rest your workpiece (e.g. a wooden board). These tools incorporate a fence and mitre gauge to help guide your cuts.

“The blade sticks up through a flat tabletop surface and cuts material being passed across it – so instead of moving the saw through the material, you push the material through the blade,” says James Curran, head of D2C marketing at Evolution Power Tools. “

“Table saws can make long, straight, accurate cuts (rip cuts) in timber or in sheet materials like plywood, MDF or OSB. They produce consistent repeated cuts and handle crosscuts with a mitre gauge or sliding table.”

Shop table saws

Track saws

A track saw is a portable type of circular saw, mounted on an aluminium guide rail.

“Unlike a standard circular saw that is guided by hand, the track saw locks onto its rail to produce perfectly straight, splinter-free cuts,” says Curran.

“They can work on the floor, on a workbench or on-site, and you can use them to make long, clean, precise straight cuts, or make plunge cuts in the middle of a panel.”

In many cases, a standard circular saw can be converted into a track saw when used with a compatible track accessory.

Shop track saws

Which is better: track saw or table saw?

Precision and finish

Either a track saw or a table saw can cut precisely with a very good finish. Which is best largely comes down to the workpieces you’re cutting (as well as your cutting technique).

Table saws are particularly effective at neatly cutting smaller pieces – although you must take great care while guiding the workpiece towards the blade. Meanwhile, track saws are regarded as a good choice for making long cuts with clean edges. “Their anti‑splinter strips and fine‑tooth blades give very clean cuts with less tear-out, which makes them great for cutting kitchen worktops, plywood and laminate panels,” says Curran.

Winner: it depends what you’re cutting

Power and speed

If you have some repetitive woodworking tasks on your hands and you’d like to maximise the power and speed of cutting, then a table saw is likely your best bet.

“They are typically more powerful than track saws, and their larger motors and higher torque make them better for repeated heavy ripping,” says Curran.

“Table saws are faster and more consistent for cutting cabinetry or furniture, and for ripping long boards such as hardwoods or construction timber.”

Of course a good track saw will still be far quicker than alternatives such as a handheld saw or even an ordinary circular saw.

Winner: table saw

Ease of use

Using either a table saw or a track saw is achievable for many DIYers, but Dave Prime, procurement director at Power Tool World, believes that track saws are best for beginners. “They edge the table saw in terms of ease of use and safety, and they make it easier to get a higher quality finish to your work,” he says.

“Track saws require minimal set up, whereas a table saw will take more time to set up and adjust. There is also a safety element as the table saw has an exposed blade that requires guards and demands better technique.”

It’s worth bearing in mind that a table saw will take up far more space in your workshop (or shed!) than a track saw would. “Table saws are obviously bulkier and they’re usually designed to be the centrepiece of your workshop, whereas track saws are more portable,” says Prime.

Curran adds that with a table saw, “there’s worse risk when the saw is used incorrectly, due to the exposed blade”.

Winner: track saw

Versatility

With either a track saw or a table saw, the size and material of the blade arguably has a greater impact on versatility than the type of saw. The larger the blade is, the thicker the material it can cut, while multi-material blades open up the possibility of cutting materials such as steel and aluminium, as well as wood.

With that said, one type of saw is definitely superior to the other when it comes to cutting wide workpieces. “Track saws are the more versatile choice for sheet materials,” says Curran, “They’re perfect for cutting down large boards such as full 8 x 4 (2,440 x 1,220mm) sheets, which you wouldn’t be able to manoeuvre over a table saw without using extensions.”

Winner: track saw

Which saw should you choose?

“Buying the right saw is one of the more considered decisions you’ll make when kitting out your workspace or jobsite, and a lot of the time it comes down to specific applications,” says Prime. “Think carefully about the material you’re going to be cutting, and the types of cut you need to make before purchasing. Table saws are generally more suited to repeat cuts whereas track saws tend to be used for more unique cuts.”

Both track saws and table saws have their benefits. If you can spare the money and space, and if you do a lot of DIY or craft (especially carpentry), then it might be worthwhile having both of these tools handy for your projects.

If you’re only going to buy one of these types of saws, here are our recommendations:

Buy a track saw if…

• You’d prefer the most user-friendly option
• You’re low on storage space
• You want a tool that’s similar to a regular circular saw, but with better accuracy

Buy a table saw if…

• You want the best possible tool to use as the focal point of a workshop
• You want to cut lots of pieces quickly for major DIY or craft projects
• You’re aiming for an excellent finish with little need for sanding after cutting

FAQs

How to choose the right blade for a track saw or table saw?

Most track saws come with a standard circular saw blade, designed for cutting various wood products including softwoods, hardwoods, plywood and MDF, as well as certain other materials including plasterboard. If these are the types of materials you’ll be cutting, the standard blade should do the job – but for other materials, you may require a different type.

“We recommend using one of our Evolution multi‑material TCT blades, which cut materials including metals, composites and laminates, and wood with embedded nails, so you can move confidently between different tasks without constantly swapping blades,” says Curran.

For high-quality carpentry, you might also use a fine-tooth blade. “This type has a thinner curve and more teeth, so it causes less splinters,” Curran notes. “You’d use them to make furniture such as cabinets.”

Are track saws and table saws better than circular saws?

Track saws and table saws are somewhat similar to circular saws. They also use a circular blade, and they’re used for many of the same cutting tasks, especially in woodworking projects.

Typically, the advantage to a track saw or table saw is greater accuracy and a finer finish, compared to the results of cutting with a circular saw without a track. They are preferred by professionals, but they tend to come at a higher price and take up more storage space.

There are all sorts of cutting tools out there. If you're still in doubt over which type to use in your DIY projects, our jigsaw vs circular saw and best reciprocating saws guides could help get you on the right track.

Sharpening a drill bit is rarely a second thought for most DIYers. It's straight out of the case, into a chuck and start drilling. But drill bits are not indestructible and are prone to wear and tear like every other tool. Eventually, the crisp and clean drill holes you once admired are no longer up to scratch.

You’ll have to work harder, regardless of the type of drill bit you have. So it makes sense to give your drill bit a quick sharpen when needed to bring it back to life. Plus, it will save you the cost of replacing your bits regularly. Here you’ll find out what tools you’ll need and how to do it yourself.

Why you need to sharpen a drill bit

A new drill bit works better than a used one, so sharpening it will bring it back to its best. Leigh Start, MD of Metal Store, says, “A sharp drill bit cuts cleanly and efficiently, while a dull one forces you to apply more pressure, generates excess heat and is far more likely to wander off your mark.”

Paul McFadyen, MD of Metals4U, suggests regular sharpening is key: “Sharpening a drill bit is an essential part of drill maintenance, and improves both safety and performance of the tool.” He adds, “A blunt drill bit is less effective at drilling into material, particularly when drilling into metal and masonry, taking longer to drill to the required depth.”

Leigh Start explains what can happen with a blunt drill bit. “When drilling into metal specifically, a blunt bit can also work-harden the surface, making it even harder to cut through. Regular sharpening helps protect both your drill bits and the workpiece.”

He adds, “A dull bit also increases the risk of grabbing or snapping, particularly with smaller diameters, which can damage both the drill and the material being drilled.”

Shop these tools to sharpen a drill bit

Tools needed to sharpen a drill bit

There are a couple of options when sharpening a drill bit, explains McFadyen, “You can choose to sharpen a drill bit by hand or using an angle grinder or bench grinder.”

Sharpening by hand

Manually sharpening a drill bit only needs a few tools, as McFadyen shares, “When sharpening by hand, you will need a diamond hand file for most drill bits, particularly those made for masonry or metal drilling, which are typically made from harder materials.

He adds, “A fine file is also useful for softer drill bits or for minor finishing improvements.”

Using sharpening tools

“If you’re confident and have the tools, a bench or angle grinder can be used,” shares McFadyen. Start adds, “A bench grinder with a fine-grit wheel is the most common workshop tool for sharpening HSS twist bits.”

Start offers an alternative for DIYers: “For more consistent results - and a more accessible option for most DIYers - a drill-mounted sharpening jig or dedicated drill bit sharpener can help maintain the correct angles and keep both cutting edges symmetrical.”

PPE protection

Whether you're sharpening a drill by hand or using machinery, you need to wear protective gear, McFadyen says. “Eye protection is especially key, whilst gloves can also be worn when sharpening using power tools. A well-ventilated area and a dust mask are also recommended to avoid inhalation of dust.”

Sharpening a drill bit

There are two common methods for sharpening a drill: by hand or with a power tool. McFadyen points out, “There are key differences between the processes, but many of the techniques remain the same for both.”

Start adds, “Wood bits are usually easier to sharpen with a file or small stone, while masonry bits with carbide tips generally require a diamond wheel and are often replaced rather than sharpened in a home workshop.”

Get the right angle

McFadyen shares how to start the sharpening process: “Start by cleaning the drill bit and inspecting it to see exactly where it needs to be sharpened.” He adds, “When sharpening, take your time and frequently check the bit to ensure you are sharpening it at the correct angle.”

Ensuring you have the right angle is important. Start says, “For standard HSS twist bits used on metal, sharpening is typically done on a bench grinder by restoring the original 118° point angle while ensuring both cutting lips remain the same length.”

Start explains how, “The bit is lightly touched against the wheel and rotated to recreate the relief behind the cutting edge.” To help get the right angle, try an inexpensive tool like this Drill Bit Grinder Tool Manual from Amazon.

Alternatively, if you regularly need to sharpen drill bits, invest in a suitable machine, such as this Drill Doctor DD500X Twist Drill Bit Sharpener from Amazon.

Tips and techniques

If sharpening by hand, McFadyen says, “For the cutting edges, follow the curve of them with your file, moving it away from the edge in short controlled motions.” He continues, “Start with one edge, and then move onto the other once you are satisfied.”

Finally, “For the chisel, simply ensure that the tip is honed and clean. Do not aggressively sharpen the point, as this can shorten the life of the bit.”

If using a powered sharpener like a bench grinder, McFadyen shares the process: “The same principles apply for using powered grinders. Take things slowly and maintain a firm grip on the drill bit. Ensure the angle is correct and frequently check the bit every few seconds.”

He adds, “Importantly, when using a powered tool, you will need to control the heat generated from the grinding process. Keep a cup of water on hand and dip the bit into it every time you inspect it.”

Once sharpened, make sure to check your handiwork, shares McFadyen, “Before using the drill, visually inspect it to ensure that the edges are sharp and of equal length.” He adds, “Following this, gently test it in some soft scrap material and keep an eye out for signs that it is not drilling correctly, such as squealing, wandering or refusal to bite.”

FAQs

How often should I sharpen a drill bit?

Start says, “There's no fixed rule, but it's good practice to inspect your bits before use and after any tough job.” He continues, “Common signs that a bit needs sharpening include squealing during use, needing to apply excessive pressure, heat discolouration and ragged or imprecise holes.”

McFadyen shares, “Much will depend on how often you use your drill, what you use it for, and the quality of the drill bit itself.” He adds, “Drilling into wood, for example, will require less frequent sharpening than drilling into stainless steel or masonry.”

How much does a professional charge to sharpen a drill bit?

If you are not confident in sharpening a drill bit, you can take it to a professional. This is inexpensive for single drill bits, as McFadyen shares, “This can vary, but typically the price per drill bit will be under £5.”

And it can be a quick job as well, continues McFadyen, “Depending on availability and demand, professional sharpening can be done fairly quickly, and you will most likely be able to pick up your sharpened tools on the same day.” Search for local services to see what's available nearby.

How many times can a drill bit realistically be sharpened?

This can vary by type and use, but as a general rule, McFadyen says, “Drill bits can be sharpened frequently, but after a while it is advisable to replace rather than repair them.”

He adds, “The main restriction is the condition of the chisel head. If this becomes broken or damaged, or is filed too thin, the bit will need to be replaced.” Start explains what happens each time a bit is sharpened: “Each sharpening removes a small amount of material, so the limiting factor is typically the overall length rather than the condition of the steel itself.”

He adds that the quality also affects sharpening: “Cheaper bits often don’t respond as well to resharpening, which is another reason why investing in higher-quality drill bits can pay off over time.”

Try these drill bit sets to replace your old ones: DEWALT Titanium Nitride Coated, 21-Piece Titanium Pilot Point Drill Bit Set, fischer 561649 D-U Hex Universal Drill Bit Set and this DEWALT Masonry Drill Bit Set (all available from Amazon).

Drill bits come in many guises and can handle many DIY tasks, including drilling into walls and drilling into metal. If you are tackling any of these tasks or taking on a house renovation project, make sure your drill bits are sharp and fit for purpose.

I've seen a rise in the trend of robot vacuums, and I wanted to test the next generation and give a robot mop and vacuum a go to see if they're worth the hype.

I got the newly released eufy Omni C28 to test the latest model of robot mops and I tested it out to see how it performed on every type of flooring in my house.

I reveal the results below and give my opinion on whether it's worth the cost and clarify some misconceptions that I and maybe you have had about them.

How the robot mop was tested

I decided to try the eufy Omni C28 on every type of flooring in my house to see how it performs on each one.

This focused on wooden flooring in my lounge, limestone tiles in my kitchen, the carpet in the living room and the terracotta tiles in the drawing room.

With each of these, I wanted to test the Omni C28 on its most powerful function on the 'Deep' cleaning function, the 'High' water level and the 'Max' suction power. I also used the same washing-up liquid.

I also tried some other tests to really put it through its paces, and I can reveal the results for each flooring type.

Alongside the cleaning performance, I was also interested in how the robot handled navigation and maintenance. The C28 uses iPath 2.0 navigation, which maps the room layout and helps it avoid obstacles, even in darker areas or under furniture.

Testing the robot on wooden floors

The lounge uses basic wooden flooring, which was a good starting ground to test the eufy Omni C28.

With the mapping feature, it was able to assess the room size, surface type and where it could, and couldn't clean.

With the vacuum at the front and the mop behind it, the robot first pulled up dust and debris before mopping. The roller mop system – which applies around 1kg of downward pressure while cleaning – continuously washes itself as it goes, meaning it’s not just pushing dirty water around the floor.

This was a surprise as, despite its size, it performed well compared to my larger Dyson vacuum to give a very good finish. Dare I say, I couldn't have done it better myself.

Testing the robot on limestone tiles

I wanted to give a significantly tougher test, so I took it to the kitchen next. This Italian tumbled limestone flooring proved much tougher to clean for the eufy Omni C28.

Due to the bumpy surface, some stains were tougher to clean than others and this room definitely needed a couple of goes to achieve a full clean. However, I did deliberately leave some trickier stains.

On the first run the vinegar was spread slightly and the beetroot stain only partially lifted. However, the self-cleaning roller mop kept washing itself during the process, which meant the second cleaning pass was far more effective. After another run, both stains were removed.

This is where the automation really helped. Since the robot can return to its docking station to wash the mop, refill water and empty dust automatically, it’s designed to clean areas multiple times without you needing to intervene.

Testing the C28 on terracotta tiles

sq ftIt should be pointed out that after cleaning both the lounge and kitchen, the eufy Omni C28 did need to clean itself and reload its water. This was after 300 sqft of cleaning.

The next room was the largest of the lot, with the drawing room and an adjacent connecting room giving the C28 a workout. These open-plan style rooms are really where robot vacuums/mops come in handy.

The result in this room was the best yet with the flat surface glimmering by the end, and even though I set the function to the highest water level, it was a real bonus that the floor was not too wet, meaning it dried almost instantly, a problem I often get when mopping.

If I was being really picky some water marks were left behind but that is me being very harsh.

Testing the robot on carpet

,Finally, I moved the robot onto the living room carpet, which is a thick, deep-pile carpet and therefore a good test.

This is where the 15,000 Pa suction power came into its own. The robot automatically recognised the change in flooring and lifted out of mopping mode so the mop wasn’t used on the carpet.

It also navigated easily underneath sofas, footstools and chairs – areas that often get missed in regular cleaning.

Another useful feature here is the DuoSpiral detangling brushes, which are designed to prevent hair and fur from wrapping around the rollers. For households with pets or long hair, this could save a fair bit of maintenance.

Despite working through several rooms, the robot was also very quiet. At times I barely noticed it running.

By the end, the entire ground floor of my house had been cleaned in around 45 minutes, and the robot only needed to recharge and service itself once.

FAQs

Does the eufy Omni C28 need much maintenance?

One of the main selling points of the Omni C28 is that most of the maintenance is handled automatically by the docking station. The all-in-one base station empties the dustbin, washes the mop roller, refills the clean water tank and collects dirty water.

However, you will still need to occasionally empty the wastewater tank, buy new dustbins, refill the clean water tank and clean the filters and brushes every so often to keep the robot running efficiently.

How loud is the eufy Omni C28 when cleaning?

The Omni C28 is relatively quiet compared with traditional upright vacuums. The maximum level it can reach is 67 dBs.

Does the robot work in low-light conditions?

The Omni C28 uses its iPath 2.0 navigation system, which allows it to detect obstacles and map rooms even in low light or under furniture. This means it can clean effectively at night or in darker rooms without needing the lights on.

Can you control the robot remotely?

Yes. The robot connects to the eufy Clean app, which allows you to start or stop cleaning cycles, adjust suction or water levels and set cleaning schedules remotely.

You can also use the app to see the robot’s room mapping and direct it to specific areas if you only want one room cleaned.

Will the eufy Omni C28 fall down the stairs?

I did also test the eufy Omni C28 upstairs and I did worry that it could fall down the stairs. However, it will scan if it is near an edge and stop itself everytime to prevent it falling an damaging itself.

Can the eufy Omni C28 go up slopes?

It can go up slopes as high as 45 degrees, however it cannot go up edges that are larger than an inch.

Is the eufy Omni C28 worth it?

If you’re looking for a robot vacuum that can both vacuum and mop with minimal maintenance, the eufy Omni C28 Robot Vacuum and Mop is one of the more compelling mid-range options currently available.

It also performs strongly for a robot in this price bracket. With 15,000Pa suction, it has enough power to lift dust, pet hair and debris from both hard floors and carpets. The HydroJet roller mop continuously cleans itself while scrubbing floors, helping prevent the streaking that some robot mops struggle with.

Originally launched at around £649, it is currently available for about £499 during Amazon’s Spring Deal promotions, making it considerably more affordable than many robot vacuums with similar automation features.

If like us, it feels to you like the green shoots of spring are finally starting to flourish, we suggest you get your running shoes at the ready – but not for the reasons you might think.

While you may well be limbering up for some exercise, it's also time to get ready to race to your nearest Lidl store. The brand has launched a 12 week long gardening event, with middle aisle deals arriving in store every Thursday.

The first week kicks off with everything you'll need to start tidying up your garden after winter. I round up the weekly homes and gardens deals for our newsletter, and predict these 5 items will sell out fast. So, if a new garden landscaping idea is on your agenda, make sure you don't miss out on these middle aisle bargains.

1. Banish dirt and debris with this Parkside Pressure Washer

With a full range of handy gardening products on offer at Lidl from Thursday 5 March, from tools to scarify your lawn, through to decking oil and brushes to apply it, you'll be hard-pushed not to find something you need for gardening this spring.

Justifying adding a pressure washer to your garden shed kit is pretty easy. With a range of uses from cleaning patios to washing cars, once you've tried one you'll understand their appeal.

It's why it's likely this Parkside Pressure Washer from Lidl won't be in stores for long. At just £99.99, it comes with everything you need to get started on your patio makeover, and is £65 cheaper than this Draper Pressure Washer equivalent at Toolstation.

But, before you forge ahead with your cleaning, make sure you follow what our gardening experts recommend for cleaning decking with a pressure washer. Or, if you're planning on using your pressure washer to clean your outside windows, it could be worth picking up this Parkside Facade and Glass Cleaner Attachment while it's in store.

Although on a personal note, if I had a self build with lots of architectural glazing, I'd be snapping up a model like this Robot Window Cleaner from Amazon to do the dirty work for me.

2. Get your lawn looking as fresh as a daisy

March is the perfect time to start prepping your lawn for spring, and one of the best times to scarify your lawn – autumn being the other key season when it's recommended.

The Parkside Scarifier/Aerator from Lidl will be on offer for £89.99, and even cheaper at £79.99 if you have the Lidl app. With easily interchangeable rollers, it's cheaper, and more powerful than this VonHaus Lawn Scarifier/Aerator/Rake Electric from Amazon.

It's classed as suitable for lawns up to 600m2, and while autumn is considered the prime time when looking at when to aerate a lawn, if you missed the September window spring is considered the next best time.

3. Keep your trees and hedges at bay

Next up our shopping list is the Parkside Extendable Tree Pruner with Saw. Overgrown trees and hedges are one of the areas that can turn into potential neighbour disputes. While there isn't a legal height for hedges between neighbours. there are guidelines in place for unruly and untrimmed boundaries. Avoiding them is therefore key, which is why pruning tools with extra length that avoid the need for ladders can be handy.

This VonHaus Telescopic Tree Pruner & Lopper only extends slightly further and is currently £27.99 on Amazon compared to Lidl's £14.99 offer.

4. Keep your health and borders in check with this weed puller

If the thought of gardening makes your knees creak, then this next middle aisle deal seems like a no-brainer for your body – and your budget. The Parkside Weed Puller will be available for just £5.99.

While it's perfect for lawns or flowerbeds, if you're looking for a tool to remove weeds from patios, you could try this Vonhaus Weed Remover from Amazon instead, as it's suitable for use on hard surfaces including patios, wood and driveways.

5. Go easy on your knees with this padded kneeling mat

And last, but certainly not least and one item you'll be glad of throughout the seasons is the Parkside Kneeling Pad. Available in black or green, and with an integrated carrying handle, it will help protect your knees when tidying up your garden planters, or lawn edging ideas.

At an extremely affordable £3.99, this Livivo Extra Thick Kneeling Pad on Amazon has similar dimensions, but is priced at £9.99.

Ready to shop? Make sure you also check out the latest garden trends for 2026 before you start working on your garden or patio, and if you also have a new decking area in your sights, make sure you avoid these common decking mistakes.

If you’re doing your own tiling project, don’t forget to use tile spacers. These inexpensive tools slot in between tiles during the laying process, ensuring your grout joints are even and that you get a neat finish.

Tiny, plastic tile spacers can cost £5 or less for a pack of 1,000, but you shouldn’t just purchase the first product you spot. Differences in size and type will affect a spacer’s suitability for a particular tiling task.

We asked tiling experts how to choose the right tile spacers for your project – and how to use them effectively when tiling a wall.

What are tile spacers for?

Whether you're tiling a kitchen wall or tiling a bathroom floor, tile spacers are a small tiling tool, used in large quantities during the tile laying process to ensure the grout gap between tiles is consistently at the desired width.

Whichever of the many tile laying patterns you choose, from straight lay to herringbone, suitable tile spacers can be used to create a uniform, professional-looking effect.

“I couldn’t live without tile spacers,” says Kevin Bailey, owner and director of Tiler Required?, a Buckinghamshire-based tiling company. “They do a good job of holding tiles level and straight, with a consistent grout gap.”

During laying, spacers also perform the essential role of limiting movement in the tiles, as your tile adhesive sets them in place. “Wherever you’re butting tiles up together, spacers ensure they won’t decouple from the substrate if the wall expands or contracts,” says Kevin.

Achieving the correct grout joints in a tiled area is not just an aesthetic goal. In some cases, BSI guidance stipulates that grout joints between tiles must fall within a specific range of widths.

“The grout joints exist for a purpose,” says Nathan Rees, Commercial Sales Representative of RUBI UK, a manufacturer of tiler spacers and other tiling products. “They are there to allow some flexibility or movement in the wall or floor, and the spacer size determines the width of the joint.”

Spacers can be placed into the corners where tiles meet in a pattern, or sticking out between the faces of two tiles, depending on your preferred method.

Common sizes and types of tile spacers

There are three main types of tile spacers: cross spacers, T-shaped spacers and wedge spacers.

• Cross spacers: "These are the standard type," says Nathan Rees. "They’re available in sizes from 1 to 10mm in increments of one millimetre and they’re used for your standard tiling set out with tiles in a grid."
• T-spacers: "These have three legs and also come in various sizes," explains Nathan. "They are used for certain laying patterns, especially a brick bond effect where the corners of the tiles form a ‘T’ shape rather than a cross."
• Spacer wedge: "These can be looked upon as an adjustable-size spacer, with the joint width depending on how far you push a wedge in," adds Nathan. "They help with laying irregularly shaped tiles, and they come in 5mm or 7.5mm sizes, both of which taper to zero. You’d use them for slight adjustments rather than standard jobs."

Another important point of difference is the length of a spacer’s legs. “You can get ones with short legs or ones with long legs,” Kevin Bailey notes. “I use long because they go a bit further along the joint, which helps to make sure it’s straight and consistent.”

Most tile spacers are made by a handful of brands. “I usually use RUBI spacers, which are easy to find at shops like Topps Tiles, although I occasionally use Vitrex spacers (available from Screwfix) instead, if their spacers are more convenient to get hold of,” says Kevin.

“There isn’t much difference between makes, but you do get used to using what you use – some spacers feel a bit more brittle and snap more easily than others," he adds.

Shop tile spacers for your tiling project

How to choose the right tile spacers

They key point to remember is that choosing the right tile spacers for a tiling project comes down to how wide your grout joints will be.

“The correct grout joint width (and therefore spacer size) will often depend on the size of the tile,” says Nathan Rees. “Large tiles tend to require larger grout joints, but also if you’ve got tiles that aren’t perfectly calibrated – so their sizing is slightly off – then using different sizes of spacers can allow the tiler to make up for imperfections in the size of certain tiles.”

Grout gaps of around 3mm for wall tiles and around 6mm for floor tiles are common, but there are exceptions. For instance, relatively small, rectangular metro tiles tend to look best with the narrowest compatible grout gap, while large-format tiles often require an especially wide gap to account for stresses caused by movement in the underlying floor or wall.

Some tile laying patterns dictate that T-shaped tile spacers with three ‘legs’ will be easier to use than a conventional cross-shaped spacer.

“If you’ve got brick-style subway tiles set out in a running bond laying pattern, the T-shaped spacers are fairly handy,” says Kevin Bailey. “We certainly go through a few of them on metro wall installations, and anything else that’s on a brick bond.”

Fitting tile trim is another way to ensure your tiling project has a professional looking finish.

How to use tile spacers

Using tile spacers is pretty straightforward: you place them into the gaps where the edges of tiles come close to others, allowing the legs of the spacer to determine the gap between the tiles. You can do this throughout the laying process, adding spacers with every new tile you lay.

However, one tiling mistake DIYers sometimes make is removing spacers at the wrong time, while the tiles are setting in place with your chosen tile adhesive. Remove them too early, and the tiles may shift or fall.

How long your tile adhesive takes to dry depends on the product you are using. “The right time to remove them depends on your adhesive,” says Kevin Bailey. “We tend to use either a rapid set or a standard set tile adhesive. Rapid set is usually set after three hours, but it is secure enough for spacers to be removed within about 30 minutes. With standard set adhesive, leave the spacers in place for 24 hours.”

In some cases, you might not need to remove the spacers at all. “If you push the spacer down far enough then you can grout straight over the spacer, provided it is 2-3mm below the face of the tile,” Kevin notes.

It's important you work out the amount of tile adhesive you need too.

FAQs

Are tile levelling kits better than tile spacers?

Tile levelling kits are a more advanced tile laying solution, often used by professional tilers and sometimes favoured by DIYers who have plenty of tiling to do.

“We use levelling kits and systems with larger format tiles,” says Kevin Bailey, owner and director of Tiler Required?. “They’re made up of a baseplate that goes under the tiles, and a clip and wedge system that holds the tiles in place from above and ensures the gaps are the right width.”

“For anything with tiles over 300 x 600mm, we would tend to use this system,” he adds.

What did tilers use before tile spacers?

Tilers have long aspired to achieve uniform grout joints, but tile spacers are a fairly recent invention, patented by Bob Joos in 1989. Before then, tilers had to make do with less specialised items.

“Around 25 years ago, when I first started in the industry a lot of the older tradesmen used matchsticks or dowels, and they asked me why I used spacers,” says Kevin Bailey. “But for me, it’s always been a plastic spacer.”

The same cross-shaped and T-shaped spacers have dominated the market for decades, but manufacturers have designed newer types more recently, securing some uptake among tilers.

“Some people use horseshoe spacers now which are a larger, U-shaped spacer,” says Kevin. “I haven’t moved on to these yet, as I feel that the old cross or T-spacers do a job that’s not broken and doesn’t need fixing.”

Small tools and materials such as tile spacers are sometimes overlooked, but they can make a vast difference to DIY projects at minimal expense.

Our guides on masking tape vs painter’s tape and how to avoid drilling into wires by using a wire detector will help you to top up your home renovation know-how.

Knowing how to cut a clean, precise hole in wood is a skill every DIYer should have in their toolkit. Whether you’re constructing a stud wall, fitting shelves, or threading cables through cabinets, many DIY projects require creating holes of the correct size.

To ensure success, you’ll need to invest in the right tools and employ the appropriate techniques. The best cordless drills and the correct drill bit will go a long way in ensuring a precise clean hole.

Here, we take a close look at the tools – and how to use them – to cut small, large, and irregular holes for a successful project.

Cutting small holes in wood

Small holes in wood are often used for dowels to join sheets of wood, pilot holes for screws, or to pass small cables through. A quick, simple way to make small holes is to use a wood drill bit. A standard wood drill typically comes in sizes up to 10mm. To drill a small hole in wood, simply select a suitable-sized drill bit. Common sizes for wooden dowels used in furniture and shelving are 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm. Mark the drilling spot, place the bit tip on the mark, ensure it is at 90 degrees, and start slowly before increasing speed.

Scott Godfrey, Construction trade consultant for Black Hammer, shares an alternative option, “For clean, accurate small holes in visible work, use a sharp brad‑point bit (like this Bosch Professional Brad point from B&Q). Its centre spur stops wandering, and the spurs score the fibres to leave a crisp rim.” He continues, “Mark the centre, clamp the work, and support the exit with a sacrificial backer to prevent tear‑out. Start square, use steady pressure, and ease off as the point is about to break through.”

However, successful hole cutting relies not only on the tool but also on the right technique, explains Godfrey. “Adjust speed and feed to the material.” He adds, “Softwoods tolerate higher speeds, while dense hardwoods and laminates prefer a slower speed and lighter feed to avoid burning or chipping.”

He adds, “On veneered or melamine panels, tape the face, score the layout with a knife, and always drill from the show face into a backer. For multiple holes, use a depth stop for blind holes and a simple jig or guide to maintain consistent spacing."

Try these tools to cut holes in wood

4 Tools to cut large holes

There are several options for cutting larger holes in wood. These are the ideal choice if you are looking to cut holes larger than a standard wooden drill bit can. Here, we look at the different tools you can use and reveal what they are typically used for and what sizes they usually cut.

1. Auger bits

These look similar to a standard drill bit, but their design has a few subtle differences, as Godfrey explains: “Auger bits have a screw point and a deep spiral that pulls the bit through, clearing chips efficiently.” He adds, “They are typically used for deep, straight holes in studs, joists, and beams where you need reach and good chip ejection, such as services and fixings.” These are typically available in sizes up to 32mm, like this Meccion Wood Drill Bit.

Godfrey explains what they are best for, “They are about depth and efficiency rather than producing the widest or neatest diameters on a show face.” He adds, “Use a slower speed in dense hardwoods and reduce feed as the screw point approaches the exit to limit breakout. Support the far side with a backer if you can, or stop short and finish from the other face for a cleaner edge.”

2. Spade drill bits

“Spade bits are flat paddle cutters with a centre point, designed to remove material quickly”, explains Godfrey. “They are typically used for fast through holes in framing and other hidden locations, where a crisp rim is not required.” Spade bits like this DEWALT Extreme Flat Wood Drill Bit 9 Piece Set from Amazon range in size from 12mm to 32mm.

He continues, “They can cover larger diameters than common small‑hole work, but they tend to tear fibres, especially in plywoods and laminates.” To get a cleaner result, Godfrey says, “Clamp a backer, tape the face, and slow down for the last few millimetres. For visible work, step over to a Forstner or hole saw to get a clean rim and reduce sanding.”

3. Hole saws

“Hole saws are cylindrical saw cups mounted on an arbour with a pilot bit, used for clean circular cut‑outs in sheet goods and thin timber,” shares Hargreaves. “They’re the go‑to for locks, pipe penetrations and downlights, and they cover a broad span of diameters with changeable cups.”

Hargreaves explains the best way to use a hole saw. “Slow the drill as the diameter increases, keep the saw square, and clear dust regularly to avoid burning.” He adds, “Tape the face, clamp a backer, and stop as soon as the pilot breaks through so you can finish from the other side for a neat edge.”

4. Forstener bits

Forstener bits (like this 30mm Forstner Bit Wood Drill Boring Hinge Hole Cutter from B&Q) are slightly different to other bits, explains Hargreaves, “Forstner bits cut very clean, flat‑bottomed holes guided by a rim rather than a long point, so they excel in cabinetry and furniture where the edge needs to be crisp.”

They are typically used to create recesses for hinges and dowel holes. Hargreaves continues, “They let you overlap holes, bore partial depth, and work close to edges with control.”

To use a Forstener bit, Hargreaves says, “Use lower speed and firm support, ideally with a drill guide or drill press for accuracy and repeatability. Back the work, peck to clear chips, and lightly chamfer the edge if the hole will be touched or finished.”

Shop tools for cutting a hole in wood

How to cut round and irregular shape holes

There are a few options for cutting large and irregularly shaped holes. Godfrey explains a popular option for large round holes, “A router with a circle jig (like this Milescraft 1219 Circle Guide Kit from Amazon) or a template gives very clean, repeatable holes and arcs, provided you use a sharp cutter and take shallow passes rather than trying to remove all the material at once.”

To help ensure a clean hole he adds, “Clamp the work firmly, guide the router smoothly, and use dust extraction because routers generate fine chips.”

Irving shares his thoughts, “A router can also be used to cut non-round holes in wood, using different wood cutting jigs.”

For irregularly shaped holes, like countertop holes for sinks, Irving says, “A jigsaw can be used for cutting both large round holes or irregular shapes in wood.” He adds, “These saws have fine-toothed blades that are good for cutting around outlines of shapes. A jigsaw takes more concentration and control than a hole saw, as you will have to move slowly to ensure your cut is precise.” Try this Makita DJV180ZX LXT Cordless Top Handle Jigsaw from Amazon to cut holes and shapes.

FAQs

What is the largest commonly used wood drill bit size?

Hargreaves says, “Ten millimetres is a common everyday size for fixings and hardware.” He adds, “But 'small' in practice runs up to the top end of what you’d comfortably do with standard bits before switching to spade, Forstner, or a hole saw.”

Hargreaves adds more definition to the term small, “I treat anything needed for screws, plugs and light fittings as small, and step up to the next tool family when the hole needs more control or cleanliness.” He adds, “If the face is on show, I’ll choose the bit style that gives the neatest rim and drill from both sides using a pilot to keep the hole centred.”

Should I drill into wet wood?

Yes, you can, but it's not advised for a number of reasons, as Irving notes, “It’s typically advised against as the wet wood fibres can clog together, increasing friction and making the drill bit feel like it’s sticking.”

He adds, “Heat and friction when drilling can lead to worn and blunt drill bits. Furthermore, when the wood dries, it can shrink or warp, which leads to misaligned holes and problems with structural integrity”.

Should you lubricate drill bits before drilling?

Lubricants are not commonly used when drilling into wood. Irving explains why, “Lubricants, like cutting oil, can stain wood and cause problems when painting or staining wood after drilling.” He adds, “Furthermore, the oil can even cause the wood chips to clog in the grooves of the drill bit and ruin its effectiveness.”

If you are struggling to drill wood, Irving suggests a suitable alternative: “Use a small amount of wax, like beeswax, on your drill bit to prevent it from sticking when drilling. Wax can act as a dry lubricant to prevent staining or clogs, whilst reducing friction”

If you are fitting a kitchen worktop or fitting a kitchen sink, there’s a good chance you will need to trim or cut a hole in a worktop. If you’re thinking of fitting a new bathroom sink in a vanity unit, check out our bathroom sink ideas for insight and inspiration.

When Arnold Schwarzenegger first started demonstrating Lidl's power tools a while back, you couldn't help but notice. And Lidl’s reputation for offering quality at low prices made this partnership a hard-to-ignore combination.

The Terminator actor certainly packed a punch armed with his Lidl chainsaw, cutting muscles into a wooden sculpture of himself in their advert, all while exclaiming "power in the palms of your hands" is needed to make a success of something.

But clever advertising aside, as a seasoned DIYer I wanted to see if Lidl's power tools really were a bargain compared to the offerings from its bargain basement competitor: Amazon. I’ve used own-brand tools before and have rarely been disappointed, but who will win in our head-to-head? Surely Arnie – who used to be a bricklayer (yes, really) – can't lose, right?

Lidl's drill versus similar on Amazon

Every DIY enthusiast needs a drill. It’s usually the first power tool that any aspiring DIYer acquires. The Parkside Performance Cordless Drill Driver Starter Set is the ideal starter kit for any DIY novice. It has everything – with a regular price of just £39.99 – including two rechargeable batteries with a charger, 20 torque settings, an integrated LED light, a keyless chuck, 25 screwdriver bits, and a variety of wood and masonry drill bits.

And like all good modern power tools, it’s compatible with any other cordless Parkside power tool that uses the X 12V TEAM series rechargeable batteries. For peace of mind, it comes with a 5-year warranty. I’d say that’s impossible to ignore at such a low price point.

Can you buy it on Amazon? No, but the highly rated Parkside PABS 20-Li X20V Cordless Drill is yours for £33, with no battery or charger. A more powerful Parkside option is the Parkside Cordless 20v Drill at £65. This includes a better battery and a charger, but nothing else. An alternative at a similar price point is the well-received Einhell Power X-Change Drill, available for £45 including battery and charger.

Winner: Lidl, those batteries being includes is a brilliant saving

Lidl's sander versus what you can find on Amazon

Another frequent visitor to a DIYer's toolbox is a sander. If you paint, and let's be honest, what DIYer doesn’t, a sander is the perfect tool if you're painting skirting boards, doors, windows or architrave. The Parkside Multi Sander from Lidl comes in at a very respectable £23. Features a hook-and-loop fastener, an integrated dust-collection box, a soft-grip ergonomic handle, and a 3-year warranty.

This isn’t available on Amazon, but there are some very smart alternatives like this BLACK+DECKER Mouse 55W Detail Sander for just £22. It fits neatly in the hand, is lightweight, and its teardrop-shaped sanding pad allows it to get into all corners.

Winner: It's a tie

Lidl tile cutter versus Amazon

If you’re a keen DIY tiler, Lidl's Parkside Wet Tile Cutter is almost a must-have at £45. It includes one diamond-cutting disc, a tool for changing the saw blade, and a three-year warranty. For a little extra, you can get the Vitrex torque master power tile cutter from Amazon. It's highly rated, cuts tiles up to 25mm thick and includes a 110mm diamond blade

Winner: Lidl

Lidl's wet and dry vac versus similar on Amazon

When you're done, don’t forget to clean up. A wet and dry vac speeds up the process, and once again, Lidl have a very competitively priced model – Parkside Wet & Dry Vacuum Cleaner – at £40. You’ll struggle to do any better at this price point, but the Draper 1250W 15L Wet and Dry Vacuum Cleaner from Amazon comes close, or even better when on offer at £35.

Winner: Amazon

Power tools to buy on Amazon

Lidl's power tool accessories versus Amazon

Every power tool needs accessories, and Parkside haven’t forgotten this. You can get your hands on the Parkside Performance Hexagonal Wood Drill Bit Set and Parkside Performance Hexagonal Masonry Drill Bit Set, both for £4.99. These are hard-to-beat prices, but the Bosch 15-Piece Drill Bit Set on Amazon features both wood and masonry bits for just over £6.

When you need help with a DIY project, a small stepladder like the Parkside Folding Stepladder at £17.99 is perfect for a quick lift to reach the top of walls for painting and wallpapering. If you’re looking for something a little more robust, try the StepIt Premium 2 Step Ladder from Amazon.

If you need an extra pair of hands, but no one’s available to help, I find bar clamps are the perfect assistant. The Parkside Large Bar Clamps have a jaw width of 300mm and come as a 2-pack for just £6.99. Can you get them cheaper on Amazon? No, but these IRWIN QUICK-GRIP 150mm Mini Clamps are the perfect companion for smaller jobs, and they're less than a tenner.

Winner: Lidl

Lidl or Amazon?

Like Arnie famously said, “I’ll be back”, the next time I need a well-priced power tool. But will it be Amazon or Lidl? The boring answer is that it is most likely both depending on which tool I need, but if Arnie is really pinning me down on an either or answer, it's obviously going to have to be Lidl.

Power tools are the lifeblood of any good DIY project, so you need to make sure you have the right selection. Check out our best cordless drills, essential tools I buy on Amazon and jigsaw vs circular saw guides to make sure you are ready for your next DIY project.

In this Henry HVR160 review I share my experience of using it for more than five years, to tidy up after DIY successes (and disasters) and general use around the home.

It's a canister vacuum cleaner, which means that the main unit and cleaning head are connected by a long hose. This makes it perfect for getting into difficult spaces, and useful for getting replacement parts since they are all easily accessible. With powerful suction, dust-free emptying and a robust design, is there anything it can't do?

Over the years I have tested a lot of vacuum cleaners, and I haven't held back in stretching their capabilities – especially with this one. As a mum-of-two and someone who likes stripping wallpaper, knocking through walls and sanding skirting, let me tell you how it made the cut onto our list of the best vacuum cleaners for builders' dust. You can then weigh up if it's the one for you.

Unboxing and setting up the Henry HVR160

The Henry HVR160 arrives by courier, and it takes no second guesses as to what is inside the box. Clearly branded and labelled, the cardboard box is purpose made for shipping this Henry. The only plastic used was a bag that contained a Tapered Adapter, Crevice Tool, Dusting Tool and Brush and Mattress Tool, which will come in handy when cleaning the home – rather than clearing up after a DIY success or disaster.

There's a set of owner instructions that explains how everything fits together, but if you've seen a Henry before then familiarity trumps.

A bag is already in place to collect the dust from your DIY project or house renovation, so the only set-up required is to connect the three-piece tube set, attach it to the hose and then screw said hose onto the main unit. With no battery to charge and no fancy smart features, the Henry HVR160 is ready to use within minutes.

First impressions

When the Henry HVR160 is put together it looks like a useful piece of kit, with all the tools secured onto the on-board storage and the otherwise gangly floorhead secured by a clip at the back of the canister.

It's on a set of wheels so I can either push it by foot or pull it by a hand on the hose to move it around. There is also a retractable handle on the top that I used to carry it into different rooms or up the stairs, or hauled up a ladder to the attic.

I like that there is some discreet cable management underneath the handle, so that the 10m power cable can be wound away when I've finished a job. The generous 6L bag is also neatly contained in the canister so all the dust and debris will be out of sight and out of mind, that is until it's full and needs replacing.

Henry HVR160 specifications

• Power: 620w
• Capacity: 6L
• Cable length: 10m
• Hose length: 2.2m
• Cleaning range: 25.7m
• Weight: 7.5kg
• Dimensions: 320 x 340 x 345mm
• Additional tools: Crevice Tool, Dusting Tool, Brush & Mattress Tool

Using the Henry HVR160 for DIY

The Henry HVR160 has helped us out in two home renovations and continues to be a reliable companion through all our DIY successes, and failures. What we love about it is that no mess is too big or too small – it will literally suck up everything (provided it is not a liquid). Dust, stones, chipped bricks, plasterboard, insulation and wood shavings are just some examples of how much it has tidied up for us.

It's currently sat in our attic. We (my husband) are in the throes of insulating the loft and boarding out the space, to prevent heat loss from the bedrooms below and maximise the area for loft storage. A lot of dust comes with chipboard and rock wool insulation, as well as flyaways as the main bulk of the insulation is laid.

We've removed the floorhead and three-piece stainless tube set so we're more agile in the somewhat cramped space. This means that we're only using the hose with tapered adapter to suck up the mess, and the Henry takes it in its stride. The hose doesn't get blocked and the canister bag is filling up nicely.

The wheels on the canister make it easy to pull into a tight spot. I just need to remind my husband to unplug and rewind the 6m power cable so that the attic isn't anymore treacherous than it already is.

Switching to home use

As well as tidying after a DIY project, the Henry HVR160 can also be used to clean the carpet, floors, skirting, crevices and upholstery around the home.

The Combi Floor Tool attaches to the three-piece stainless steel tube set. On the top of this tool is a paddle which can be pressed down for hard floors, and up for carpets. I found that it did a great job of cleaning both floor types, but the fluff from our new wool carpets did quickly build on the underside of the tool so I need to stop and start a few times to keep clearing it. This floor tool transitioned well between rooms too.

For cleaning skirting boards you can either use the Crevice Tool or Brush, but I found it easier to remove the tube set from the hose and just run the Tapered Adapter along the top. I personally found these tools more useful when cleaning the car.

Through a house move and general lack of organisation, I have unfortunately misplaced the tools but it's good to see that a replacement kit comprising the tools, hose and stainless-steel tube set can be bought from Amazon for £44.99.

If you think that you'll be scaling back on the DIY ambitions and using the Henry HVR160 more around the home, it would be worth considering the noise levels. I recorded 82dB during testing which is equivalent to heavy traffic or loud singing.

Cleaning, maintenance and storage

The Henry HVR160 is one of the easiest vacuum cleaners I have had to maintain in all my years of owning a vacuum cleaner. You'll just need to check the nozzle and floorhead for blockages, and replace the canister bags when full. A pack of 10 Henry replacement bags are £12 [Amazon] so while you do have an ongoing cost, what I will say is that this Henry will stuff the bag full before it needs swapping out.

To store, the cable can be wound in and the tools can be stowed on the on-board storage. The floorhead with three-piece stainless-steel tube can also be clipped onto the back of the canister in an upright position, but I found that this clip is a weak spot and the height of the floorhead clipped on could make it difficult to fit into a space out of the way.

How does it rate online?

Looking at TrustPilot reviews, the Henry HVR160 (and his friends) has 1767 reviews and has been awarded 4.8 out of 5 stars. Reviewers speak highly about how easy it is to fit together, the powerful suction and the useful attachments. It's not easy to find any negative comments but I have managed to find one who says that they find it a bit cumbersome to move around and the suction adjuster on the handle is difficult to turn on.

Over on Argos, 98% of customers recommend the HVR160. It's received high praise for its powerful suction, ease of use and excellent value for money. Users appreciate its performance on both carpets and hard floors, along with its long cord and generous dust bag capacity. However, some users report that they struggle to move the floorhead around and that the hose gets blocked.

And on Currys, 4 out of 5 stars has been awarded out of 10,747 reviews. The performance, ease of use and value for money is all spoken highly off. Yet some users struggle with pet hair removal (there's a separate tool for this) and that it keeps falling apart.

How does it compare?

While the Henry HVR160 is fantastic for dry messes, you may need to call in Charles CVC370 for the big stuff. This is a wet/dry vacuum cleaner which is ready to clean up plumbing disasters or clean out the garage. It has a larger 1000W motor and a larger 9L capacity for dry stuff, and 15L capacity for wet stuff.

Another option is the Karcher WD4 Wet & Dry vacuum cleaner (available on Amazon) which has a 2.2m long hose as standard. This is longer than Charles' 1.8m hose. The extra length would be beneficial when clearing blockages, although an extra long 6m long hose can be bought for Charles for £16.99 on Amazon if you already own one.

The 10m power cable on the HVR160 may be too restricting for other fellow DIYers too. The Makita DVC750LZ (available on Amazon) is a lightweight, portable cordless vacuum cleaner. Like Charles, it can also clean wet and dry messes but on a smaller scale because it has half the capacity.

In terms of price, the Henry HVR160 offers excellent value for money. It's priced at £119 which is cheaper than Charles CVC370 (RRP £169), Karcher WD4 (RRP £139.98) and Makita DVC750 (RRP £159.99). Whist it's not a wet and dry vacuum cleaner, it can be used anywhere in the home which may be the better option for you if you tend to dip in and out of projects.

Should you buy the Henry HVR160?

The Henry HVR160 is a brilliant buy if you need a vacuum cleaner that is robust, reliable and low maintenance. It has ample suction to clear away dust, wood shavings, small pieces of rubble, plasterboard scraps and insulation flyaways. Yes, the bags are an ongoing cost but you'll rarely need to replace them and, honestly, it's well worth containing the dry DIY messes in this way so you don't make the mess again when emptying.

It is noisy compared to other household vacuum cleaners, but the performance outweighs this in my mind. I did also find that when storing the floorhead and hose in an upright position it felt flimsy, although after years of use it will find its own safe space in whatever configuration – as it has done at our house.

Looking to clear up the mess from other DIY and renovation projects? Our favourite window vacs will clear dust and dirt from windows and doors in no time, while the best pressure washers are perfect for messy outdoor jobs.

Why do I need a multi-use power tool? This is exactly what I was thinking when the Black & Decker MultiEvo Multi Tool arrived. Surely it can’t be as good as my single-use power tools. But at the same time, I was prepared to give it a go without any preconceptions.

As an experienced DIYer, I’ve used a lot of Black + Decker tools (I still have my drill from over 10 years ago), and they haven’t disappointed, so I thought it could be a real winner. Offering plenty of versatility at a price point that occasional DIYers will like.

But there’s always one point of contention with cordless tools: battery life. How will the MultiEvo Multi Tool perform compared to other best multi tools in our tests? Read on to find out.

Specs and features

• Battery voltage: 18v
• Battery type: Lithium Ion
• Weight: 4kg
• Guarantee: One year
• Speed: Variable - up to 7500rpm
• Features: Magnetic bit holder, LED work light, Torque adjustment collar
• In the box: 1 x hammer drill head, 1 x Jigsaw head, 1 x sanding head, 1 x 1.5Ah battery, 1 x charger, 1 x 16" toolbox, 5 x drill bits, 5 x Jigsaw blades, 5 x sander sheets.

BUY THE BLACK & DECKER MULTIEVO MULTI TOOL FROM ARGOS TODAY

Unboxing and first impressions

The Black & Decker MultiEvo Multi Tool is neatly packed in its own sturdy 16-inch toolbox. All I needed to do was remove the cardboard wrapper, and I was ready to go. Unlike some carry cases that come with kits or sets, this wasn’t a cheap add-on. It was well-made and seemed built to last, I reckon, as long as the tool itself.

The toolbox provided the perfect carry case for the multi tool body, attachments, and battery charger, with just enough room for an extra attachment if needed. It also features a couple of neat storage compartments integrated into the lid, perfect for storing the included drill bits and jigsaw blades.

The body of the tool felt sturdy, and I liked the rubber handle, which offered a good grip. I also noticed a magnetic drill bit holder positioned on top of the body. The double-ended bit was definitely staying put until needed – a simple but neat touch that shows thought has been put into the design of the MultiEvo.

Setting up drill, sander and saw attachments

A multi-tool requires more effort to prepare your preferred attachment, but luckily, the process is straightforward and intuitive. Each attachment slides and clicks into place neatly, and changing them is as simple as pulling back the quick-release button and extracting the attachment.

The drill attachment offers various options, including torque and hammer settings, which are easy to understand. The sander attachment only needs a pad attached, while the jigsaw involves a bit more work, but remains simple to change blades. One safety feature I particularly liked is that the trigger locks when an attachment is removed, so there's no need to remove the battery to swap heads. If you're unsure how to use any of the attachments, each one comes with a manual included in the set.

How well did the Black & Decker MultiEvo work?

Unlike a single-use power tool, there’s more to consider with a multi-tool. First, the body and attachments need to be put together. This was easy for all, and the first attachment we tested was the detail sander. Included are five good-quality pads in various grits – P60, P80, and P120 – that cover most sanding DIY tasks. The pad's position relative to the body made it really easy to use.

I tested by sanding stairs, walls, door frames and plywood shelving, which I am putting together. The pad ensured I got into all corners and did a decent job. There is an easy-to-use exhaust attachment to help redirect dust. No bag, though.

Next up was the drill attachment. Again, easy to attach, set up and use. We tried the typical tests with the provided drill bits. The wood bits were better than the masonry bits, a small point, and you can buy drill bits like this BLACK+DECKER 50 Pc. Mixed Drill and Screwdriver Bit Set from Amazon, if you need. There were various torque settings and a hammer setting that gave a little extra oomph when drilling into walls.

We made good use of the Phillips and flat-head double-end drill bit. There’s only one included, so you will need to invest in new screwdriver bits quite quickly, but you can buy reasonably priced sets like this DEWALT Screwdriver Bit Set from Amazon to keep you going.

Last up was the jigsaw attachment. This came with five 10 TPI wood blades (also usable on plastic), making it a good all-round choice. Inserting the blades was quick and easy. A small handle at the back of the attachment needs to be pushed down for a quick fit. I suggest inserting the blade before adding the attachment, it's just easier and safer in my opinion.

To test the saw, we kicked off by cutting 18mm plywood. The MultiEvo provided enough power to slowly cut through the plywood. It was pretty straightforward to use; the blade worked as well as any other jigsaw blade I've used. Next, we tried it on 6mm hardboard, which, as you might expect, was easier to cut through than the plywood. Finally, it was a plastic plumbing pipe which it breezed through.

Battery life

Battery life is critical on cordless tools, and with the Black & Decker MultiEvo Multi Tool we were left wanting more. Included is a small, lightweight 1A Charger and a 1.5Ah battery. These are the minimum requirements for a cordless tool. There’s no doubt that a larger battery and faster charger would have pushed the MultiEvo towards five stars.

Straight out of the box, the battery took three to four hours to reach full capacity, which lasted 30-45 mins (depending on the job). This makes it ideal for small DIY projects, but if you’ve got a sanding project, the battery time wouldn’t be enough to complete it, which can be annoying.

My recommendation for any cordless tool is to get a backup battery and keep it fully charged so you can continue working when you want. And, this is definitely the case for the Black & Decker MultiEvo Multi Tool.

THE FINAL VERDICT

If you don’t own a cordless drill, electric sander or jigsaw – or are in the market for a replacement – this multitool is a budget-friendly, multi-talented tool that is a top choice, especially for novice and occasional DIYers.

Not only do you get the three attachments (typically the most commonly used in my opinion), but you get the extras you need (drill bits/sanding pads/jigsaw blades) to use the multi-tool straight out of the toolbox

And you are not restricted to the three attachments; Black + Decker has a whole range of attachments (like this BLACK+DECKER Multievo Multi-tool Impact Driver Attachment from Amazon) and this Black and Decker MULTiEVO Multi Tool Oscillating Attachment from Tooled-Up, that can make the tool even more valuable. There are even attachments outside the DIY sphere.

It's this versatility and the toolbox that make the MultiEvo the complete package. But there is a downside, admittedly one that can be easily remedied. The battery life is limited, and the charging times are long. But invest in an additional, larger Ah battery (like this BLACK+DECKER 18V 4.0Ah Lithium Ion Battery from Amazon), or even a couple, and charge overnight, and you will get much improved battery life and a lot less time waiting between charges.

I’m always excited when I get a new power tool; I feel like a kid at Christmas. I can’t wait to take it out of the box and start working. Of course, I need to be more restrained when testing a product, but my enthusiasm stays the same.

The latest addition to my collection is the Black & Decker 18V Brushless Angle Grinder (available from Argos). Having previous experience with Black + Decker tools, I expected this device to be reliable. Aimed at DIYers, the set included everything I needed to start cleaning, cutting, and removing rust. But, as with all cordless power tools, how would the battery life hold up, and how quickly would it recharge? Time to find out.

Specs and features

• Battery voltage: 18v
• Battery type: Lithium Ion
• Motor: Brushless
• Max speed: 7600rpm
• Disc size: 115mm
• Weight: 3.6kg
• Guarantee: Two years
• Features: Soft grip handle, side handle, spindle lock, protective guard
• In the box: 1 x 2.0Ah Battery, 1 x Charger, 3 x 115mm cutting discs, soft bag, and a two-pin spanner

BUY THE BLACK + DECKER 18V BRUSHLESS ANGLE GRINDER FROM TOOLSTATION TODAY

Unboxing and first impressions

A good first impression is always positive, and straight out of the box, there was a crisp, clean, and hefty angle grinder. It felt like a sturdy piece of equipment. Accompanying the angle grinder was a handle, three cutting discs – strangely, two together and one separate in the box. These discs were all the same size –115mm x 65mm x 22.23mm – and were specifically designed for working with metal. It’s worth noting that a 115mm angle grinder sits at the smaller end of the market, making it a general all-rounder for DIYers. Larger 150mm/230mm grinders are more suitable for heavy-duty tasks.

Included was a two-pin lock-nut spanner – needed to attach and remove the cutting disc – a 2.0 Ah battery, a small, lightweight charger, and a soft carry bag. More about the battery later.

The handle was unattached but could be mounted on either the left or right side of the angle grinder, making it ideal for both right and left-handed users. Something DIYers might not spot immediately (I didn’t) is that the lock-nut spanner is neatly tucked away in the handle. A smart choice? We weren't so sure, the spanner could have been packed separately in the box and labelled more obviously to avoid any confusion.

Once I found it, it was easy to remove, use and replace. How would I describe the spanner? Functional rather than fancy, but you can buy an adjustable angle grinder spanner – with a rubber-covered handle for extra grip and comfort – for less than a fiver. I personally have this xdg Angle Grinder Adjustable Spanner from Amazon, which does a good job.

Setting up angle grinder

There’s not a lot to do to set up the Black & Decker 18V Brushless Angle Grinder. Fit the side handle to your preferred side – left or right –, slip out the lock spanner, fit a cutting disc and insert the battery.

Fitting the cutting disc wasn’t as straightforward as I'd hoped. The spindle lock button needs to be fully depressed to engage (which I thought was the case the first few times, but it wasn’t), and you need to wiggle the disc to lock it. There’s a knack to fitting the disc, but it gets easier the more you do it. Locking the flange nut keeps the disc in place. This can be reversed for thinner discs.

There’s an adjustable guard that is quick and simple and move into position. A quick-release lever makes it easy to move from the default grinding position to a cutting position. Simply release the lever, move the guard and close the lever. Job done. It’s worth noting that you might need a larger guard (not supplied) if using a wire brush wheel. Once everything’s sorted, you simply need to slip in the battery and you're ready for action.

How well did the Black & Decker 18V Brushless Angle Grinder work

To test the Black & Decker 18V Brushless Angle Grinder, we started with the three identical discs supplied. They are specifically designed for use on metal, which influenced how I initially used the angle grinder.

I began by cleaning a few rusty tools that needed a refresh, then removing old paint from a few metal posts that needed repair. All went well, and an easy-to-use locking on/off switch kicked the angle grinder into life. The grip was secure and the vibration was acceptable, but – not unexpectedly – in action, it was noisy, so you will definitely need earplugs or ear defenders (like these 3M PELTOR Optime earmuffs from Amazon).

Sparks were all part of the process, and the guard did a good job of redirecting them away from me. But, I still used googles and gloves (I’m a very sensible man nowadays, thanks to previous experiences). The supplied discs performed well. I only needed to use one to clean four or five tools and four or five metal posts, and it was still doing a good job.

The next test was removing mortar for a repointing project I’m working on and cutting ceramic floor tiles. I had to purchase suitable stone/masonry discs, which are typically thinner than metal discs. I simply flipped the fixing flange for a tight fit. The grinder powered through the tiles and mortar, no problem, but not for much longer than 20 minutes before it was time for a charge.

How was the battery life?

As with any cordless power tool, battery and charging times are a big deal, and the Black & Decker 18V Brushless Angle Grinder didn’t hit the heady heights we might have hoped. The angle grinder comes with a 2.0Ah Battery and a small, lightweight 1A Charger. Both are adequate for small DIY tasks, but we would have liked to see a larger-capacity battery and a faster charger. I’m sure this would increase the RRP, but it would definitely be worth it.

Straight out of the box, the battery took three hours to reach full capacity. Ideally, you want to charge overnight. Don’t worry, the charger can be left connected even after it's fully charged. Charging times after this were less, but still took hours rather than minutes.

It has a single LED that flashes or stays on, depending on whether it's fully charged or not. A quartet of easy-to-understand icons tell you what the LED status means. A few notable charger features we liked were charging suspension when the battery is excessively hot or cold, and diagnostics to check whether the battery is weak or damaged.

Fully charged, the battery lasts 20-30 minutes, depending on how it's used, but it was still disappointing. Definitely consider investing in a larger-capacity battery and keep a spare on hand so you can keep a job going uninterrupted.

Final verdict

If you want to use the Black & Decker 18V Brushless Angle Grinder straight out of the box, you can remove rust from tools or cut through metal using the included discs. However, for other common tasks such as removing mortar, cutting tiles, or sanding and polishing, you will need to purchase discs designed for those specific jobs.

This isn’t a major issue, especially if you have lots of metalwork to tackle. But since Black + Decker supplies three discs with the grinder, I would have preferred a variety, such as a masonry-cutting disc, particularly since I was working on a repointing project.

However, my main concern was the battery and charger. They worked well when fully charged, but the charging times were lengthy and the battery life shorter than expected. An issue compounded by the lack of a spare battery. A higher capacity battery or a spare would have been a nice addition.

However, the Black & Decker 18V Brushless Angle Grinder is aimed at DIYers, not professionals, so the short working time won’t be such a big issue. But to get the most out of the angle grinder, I highly recommend investing in an extra battery like this 3.0Ah LBXR20 Li-ion Replacement for Black and Decker 18V Battery from Amazon for continuous use

Martin Kemp has broken his silence after suffering a serious chainsaw accident during some gardening work at his Hertfordshire home.

The Spandau Ballet star, 64, injured his hand while doing some garden work, attempting to trim branches as part of the couple’s ongoing home renovation and landscaping projects.

Posting a short video to Instagram, Kemp appeared with his hand bandaged and told fans: “Hey guys, just a little message. You might have seen in the papers that I had a terrible accident with a chainsaw, which I did, but it was last week. I’m a lot better now.”

Kemp later confirmed he was “alright” after grabbing the chainsaw by the blade when it suddenly turned on - a frightening ordeal that saw him rushed to hospital. Despite the incident, he’s reportedly already back pottering in the garden.

'Why is he picking up a chainsaw?'

Roman went on to share that his father had texted the family group chat late on Friday night with no explanation.

“I just finished work, looked at my phone, and saw a photo of his hand. All his fingers were strapped up, and all he wrote was, ‘Yep… Chainsaw!!!’”

When Roman and his sister Harley pressed for details, Martin eventually replied: “There was a bit of a branch we wanted chopping down, so I went and got a chainsaw.”

Roman joked that his dad should “hire a professional” at his age, adding: “He’s 65 – he’s got more than enough dough! Why is he picking up a chainsaw?”

According to Roman, Martin admitted: “I picked it up from the blade.”

The former EastEnders actor was rushed to hospital, where he received treatment for deep cuts and a tetanus shot. Fortunately, the musician still has full use of his fingers, and his sense of humour.

From garden glory to chaos

The accident comes just a month after Martin delighted fans on Instagram with his autumn harvest of giant kale and Brussels sprouts, proudly grown in raised beds at the couple’s countryside home.

In posts shared on Instagram, followers praised the star’s huge harvests, impressive garden setup and his passion for homegrown produce.

Meanwhile, Martin’s wife Shirlie Kemp, 62, recently showcased her ‘unkempt’ Victorian garden style, a wild, meadow-inspired approach designed to encourage biodiversity and natural beauty.

She revealed that the couple had been preparing their garden for the RHS Chelsea Flower Show, explaining that letting the plants grow freely “creates a romantic, natural space that supports wildlife.”

The Kemp home renovation journey

The couple’s Hertfordshire property has been a labour of love for the past few years.

Martin and Shirlie transformed their Victorian home, including a full kitchen redesign, refreshed garden areas, and even the conversion of a former pig hut into a “romantic rustic dining room” nicknamed Piglet.

What began as a five-year renovation plan was completed in just 18 months, and the pair often share glimpses of their stylish interiors and tranquil garden on Instagram.

Kemp now 'banned from power tools'

Martin is said to be recovering well at home and “already back to pottering about in the garden,” though he’s been strictly forbidden from touching any sharp tools for the foreseeable future.

Roman joked: “Mum’s banned him from anything with a blade. She said if he can’t be trusted with a chainsaw, he can stick to watering the kale.”

Fans have flooded the couple’s Instagram page with messages of support, and plenty of gentle teasing, reminding everyone that even the most experienced DIY enthusiasts should take care when working outdoors this winter.

Former footballer and manager Harry Redknapp has become the face of a new eco-friendly DIY product after being shocked by the amount of plastic waste created during his own home renovation.

Redknapp is lending his support to UniBond’s Next Generation Sealant Cartridge - a recyclable, part-cardboard alternative that the company says can reduce plastic waste by 51% and CO₂ emissions from home projects.

The product forms part of UniBond’s drive to make everyday DIY more sustainable across UK households.

‘I had no idea how much waste these simple products create’

Redknapp said his involvement came after seeing first-hand how much waste his own renovation produced.

“I’ll be honest, I had no idea the amount of plastic waste that came from those old sealant cartridges,” Redknapp said. “I’m going through my own home renovation now and it’s definitely made me think. It’s great to see more sustainable products like this available - what a game-changing impact there would be if more people made the switch.”

Traditional sealant cartridges are typically made of single-use plastic that becomes contaminated with residue and ends up in landfill.

Innovation behind the next generation cartridge

According to UniBond, the Next Generation Cartridge is made from recycled cardboard, while the plastic cap, nozzle, and piston contain at least 49% recycled material.

The company says the design produces 73% less overall waste compared to previous cartridges.

Eve Kolesova, Head of Marketing at UniBond UK & Ireland, said: “Sealant cartridges are often overlooked as a contributor to construction waste. Our goal with the Next Generation of Cartridges is to provide a solution that performs exceptionally while significantly reducing environmental impact.”

Greener homes, bigger impact

UniBond’s data suggests that around 13 million cartridges will be used by homeowners undertaking renovations over the next two years, from resealing bathrooms and kitchens to insulating lofts and windows.

The company estimates that if all those projects used the Next Generation Cartridge, it could save the equivalent of 76 million plastic bags and nearly 2,000 tonnes of CO₂, roughly equal to one person travelling eight million miles by air.

Redknapp hopes his experience will encourage more homeowners to think about sustainability when tackling home improvement projects.

“It’s made me realise how even small changes at home can make a big difference,” he said. “If more of us thought about what we’re using, the impact could be massive.”

Paint is present throughout your home; it covers the walls, ceilings, doors, windows, and skirting boards. It is the classic finish that can quickly transform the colour, mood, and style of a room. Plus, it's a project most DIY enthusiasts can undertake themselves.

However, knowing how to paint a room is just one step towards a perfect paint job. Selecting the right paint is essential for success, and here we have compiled a list of our favourite places to buy paint. You’ll find everything from budget-friendly options to high-end, colour-perfect paints that can elevate any painting project.

Before you buy paint, think about what type of paint and tools you’re going to need

Paint comes in many guises, so you need to decide what you need before you start the purchasing process. Emulsion is the paint of choice for walls and ceilings, but if using it in a high-traffic area like a hallway, you want a paint that is durable and washable. Then you’ll need to think about the finish. Matt is great for walls that aren’t perfect, as it reflects less light.

When painting skirting boards, doors, door frames, architraves, and window sills, you need a hard-wearing, durable and wipeable paint. The finish is typically a choice of satin or gloss, with a satin finish being a popular choice for contemporary homes, offering a lower, more subtle sheen.

And, don’t forget that you’ll need the right tools to ensure a successful paint project. Check your paint brushes and rollers to see if you’ll need to invest in some new ones. Try this Harris Seriously Good Walls & Ceilings Paint Roller Set from Amazon for walls and ceilings. This ProDec 10 litre Plastic Paint Scuttle Bucket and Harris Seriously Good Aluminium Extension Pole (both from Amazon) are handy companions when using rollers.

Where to buy paint for indoors and outdoors

Below is selection of the best UK retailers that sell paint. The prices are correct at the time of publication, be sure to check each website for the most up-to-date prices and any special offers.

• B&Q - A collection of the best emulsion paints for walls and ceilings
• Amazon - Paints for ceilings, kitchen cupboards and garden fences
• Frenchic - Artisan and innovative paints for interior, outdoors and furniture
• Wickes - Budget-friendly emulsions and top-class primers
• Lick - A range of eco-friendly, pigment-rich paint colours in matt and eggshell
• The Paint Shed - Hard-wearing, durable, and long-lasting trade paints

B&Q

Amazon

Frenchic

Wickes

Lick

The Paint Shed