I’ve been DIY renovating my house for the last 8 years, and during that time I’ve used power tools to undertake some pretty extreme projects. There’s no task I won’t attempt, from laying my own parquet floor to boarding out my loft.

Despite the fact that I never have enough time, and my bank balance is always running on empty, the aspect I find most frustrating about renovating a house is the inevitable point during a DIY project where I have to accept that I am the brains and my husband is the brawn.

As a female DIYer, I’ve found that most power tools on the market are either too big or heavy for me to use comfortably, effectively, and safely. I’m on a mission to put appropriate tools into the hands of like-minded women, so save yourself a lot of aches, pains and unfinished projects with my tried-and-tested power tool recommendations.

The power tools I trust as a female DIYer

1. Ryobi 18V ONE+ HP Compact Cordless Brushless Combi Drill

This combi drill packs enough power to tackle masonry as well as the materials you’d expect any drill to work through, like metal, wood and plastic. It can also be used to drive screws.

I find myself reaching for this compact piece of kit time and time again. I’ve used mine to fit skirting boards, prepare subfloors, build a floor-to-ceiling bookcase in my spare room chimney breast, and to hang shelves, mirrors and wall cupboards.

I chose this model because Ryobi claims that it is 10% smaller than its predecessor, making it the perfect size for me to handle. The dimensions of this drill are small enough for me to be able to wrap my fingers around the barrel, alter the settings, and for my whole hand to comfortably reach around the handle while operating the variable speed trigger – all without straining.

With the battery pack attached the drill is still light enough for me to work at height, and well-balanced enough in terms of weight distribution that I don’t have to adjust my grip to counteract any shifting weight as I work. Truly designed with DIYers of all kinds in mind, it makes it easy to switch the speed setting the flick of a switch, and the chuck is smooth and simple to secure when changing the drill bit.

2. Erbauer 18V Brushless V2 Cordless Random Orbit Sander

Before I discovered this sleek Erbauer model, I really struggled with orbital sanders because the surface to grasp is usually too cumbersome for the palm of my hand. I once spent a week on my hands and knees, sanding my parquet floor with one of these sanders to save on the cost of hiring a floor sander. Having to use both hands just to hold the tool securely left me with all sorts of upper body strains and pains.

The grasping surface on this model is oval shaped and fits nicely in my palm, allowing me to effortlessly tap the on/off switch with my index finger, and adjust the variable speed dial with my thumb during use. Without a battery the sander is super-lightweight, but the battery pack does add a lot of heft, so I’d recommend that female DIYers purchase a 2.0Ah battery to go with this tool, instead of a 4.0Ah one.

3. Draper 230V Storm Force Oscillating Multi-Tool

My multi-tool has rescued many a project, enabling me to make fine adjustments to wooden details, sand awkward corners, and paint-scrape hard-to-reach places. On this model the accessory is changed using an Allen key, which doesn’t require too much strength to loosen or tighten and is suitable for hands of any size.

The body of this tool is more slimline than those of other models I've used, making it painless for me to hold in one hand while I use my free hand to stabilise my project. I don’t usually opt for corded tools, but I need to be nimble and nifty with my multi-tool, and I find that a heavy battery can make for an awkward user experience.

Having to take into account offsetting an uneven weight distribution hugely impacts the results of my work as I manoeuvre the tool into nooks and crannies. This Draper model is basic, but it avoids these issues, and ticks all the boxes for me at a very accessible price point.

4. Vonhaus 405mm Scroll Saw with LED Light

I cannot sing the praises of this scroll saw loud enough. For creative women like me, with a background in craft, this feels like the DIY version of a sewing machine. A scroll saw is the bench-top version of a jigsaw, which completely removes the burden of holding a heavy power tool, and leaves both hands free for guiding and handling the wood, metal or plastic that you’re working on.

Features such as the drop foot (for securing the piece that you’re working on) and the sturdy blade guard help me feel safe and in control of the tool. I still sometimes find the freedom of a hand-held tool a bit nerve wracking if I haven’t used it in a while.

The cutting speed and table angle are both adjustable via straightforward dials and screws, so I have total confidence before even starting up the tool. Then, all that’s left is to focus on the task at hand while I’m operating the saw. I like to use my scroll saw to cut irregular or intricate shapes to add the finishing decorative details to my woodwork projects.

Why are some power tools better for women than others?

Traditionally power tools have been designed around the measurements and grip strength of men. This means that attributes such as the handle circumference, weight distribution and trigger reach are uncomfortable for the average female hand, as women tend to have smaller hands, shorter fingers and lower grip strength.

“I remember trying to drill into a stud when renovating a bathroom and I literally had to drive it in because I had one hand trying to grip this power tool, press the trigger, and hold the weight of it. It was quite high up, I was trying to push from behind and it was going nowhere. I had no strength or force left in me because operating the drill was so difficult a task in itself,” says Sharn Rayment, a DIY Content Creator who is currently renovating her house in London and sharing the journey on Instagram and TikTok.

Sharn continues, “I don’t think power tools are designed with women in mind at all. I think they’re designed for trade and if we look at the people in those trade roles, they’re mostly men. But I think in DIY there’s a gap in the market there, and it’s growing as we see more and more woman online showing other women how to do DIY, how to renovate their own house, how to do projects big and small. I can see why the tools haven’t caught up yet but I can also see how it’s something that needs to be addressed.”

She adds that power tool brands could improve their offering for female DIYers by, “looking at the ergonomics of their tools, along with the standard measurements and sizes of women’s hands and physicality, and by asking what do women need to get out of a power tool and what’s going to make using these tools easier for them.

“These manufacturers should be consulting with women. We don’t just want tools to be painted pink, we want tools that are easier in the hand, not quite as heavy and supplied with clear instructions.”

FAQs

What should every female DIYer have in their tool box?

Emily Porecka, professional tradeswoman and owner of Emily’s Handywoman Services, says: “At the top of my list would be an impact driver and a combi drill. A combi drill is good for putting pilot holes into wood. When you drive a screw straight into wood, the wood will split, so you need to pilot it first with your combi drill and then screw into it with an impact driver. Having one of each tool saves you the effort of changing your heads all the time.

“Multi-tools come in handy for all sorts of jobs like cutting plasterboard, putting sockets in, and cutting little pieces of wood. I even used mine the other day to cut a steel rod. Your multi-tool is for detailed work, such as when you need to create a place to run a cable but have it flush to the wall.”

The professional DIYer also recommends adding a circular saw and an SDS drill to your starter kit.

Which power tool brands are best for women?

“I’ve got all Erbauer tools and I’ve used them for years,” Emily Porecka shares. “They’re not heavy and I’ve never had an issue holding them. You can easily grip your hand around them.”

Meanwhile, Sharn Rayment is full of praise for Ryobi and Screwfix. “Ryobi are good for lightweight and easy-to-use tools with clear instructions, and they do a really good detail sander and jigsaw,” she says.

“I also find you don’t need to spend the world to get good power tools if you’re a DIYer. Screwfix’s own rage, Titan, are really good, and I’ve used a lot of their stuff. They’re really good value and they’re targeted more towards DIYers.”

Feeling inspired to take on some more DIY projects with your own tools and skills? Read our guides on how to use a plumb bob and line and tile spacers to top up your toolkit.

Cleaning paintbrushes, rollers and any decorating kit is time-consuming, but you have to do it. Avoid it, and it won't be long before you're hitting your local hardware store or online looking for new ones.

However, it's not something you need to do every time you finish painting a wall, door or anything else for that matter.

Professional decorators and DIYers use a few smart tips and tricks to keep their painting tools ready for action – without going through the whole cleaning process. Adopt these, and you'll be ready to jump straight into a paint project without waiting for your kit to dry.

Storing kit between paint jobs

The key thing to remember when it comes to storing your brushes and rollers between jobs is that it is a short-term solution. It's ideal if you're taking a few hours off or coming back the next day, but how long you leave your paint tools will determine (to a certain extent) what method you use to keep them fresh.

“Short-term storage works by slowing the drying process, so it should not damage the tool if it is sealed properly and only left for a short period,” says Billy Joe Jarvis, MD and owner of paint supplier Premium Paints.

This means for short periods, there are a few options:

1. Water in a jam jar method

For solvent-based paints, I use the classic water-in-a-jam-jar method. Obviously, make sure your brush will fit in the jar/container before you start.

Get a clean cloth/rag/piece of cardboard/side of paint kettle and remove excess paint. Fill the jar with enough water to cover the bristles, but not the metal ferrule. When ready, wipe away the water and start using it again.

2. Wrap brushes and rollers

The aim with this method is to stop paint on brushes and rollers from drying out. Wrapping is one popular professional method that's again ideal for water-based paints.

The best place to find a suitable wrapping material? Your kitchen drawer. "Paintbrushes and rollers can be wrapped tightly using cling film or airtight plastic bags," says Mark Irving, building specialist at Build & Plumb.

The key here is to wrap tightly. I often use small bin liners, wrap tightly and use painter's tape to seal the bag. This works well for overnight storage as well.

Rollers are different though says Mark. “Rollers can be stored inside dedicated plastic storage tubes (like these ROLLINGDOG Paint Roller Sleeve Protective Cases from Amazon) or wrap them in damp paper towels before placing inside a bag.”

I've personally used both methods. First, I remove excess paint so it doesn't drip, but not too much, since the paint helps keep the roller moist. Then put it in a bag, squeeze out the air, and seal it with painter's tape.

Another unexpected DIY option I have used is an empty, clean Pringles tube. These are an ideal fit for a standard 9-inch roller sleeve – the size you'd use for painting new plaster, walls and ceilings. Again, remove excess paint, place it in the tube (I leave it on the roller handle and take it off once in the tube) and fit the lid to seal.

3. Storing paint trays, kettles and more

Alongside short-term storage for paintbrushes and rollers, you also need to consider paint containers such as roller trays, paint kettles, and paint scuttles. "Paint trays and pots should be covered with a damp cloth and then sealed tightly with foil or cling film to stop a skin from forming on the paint,” recommends Mark Irving.

I have used both of these methods, and both work well. As an extra step, I put cling film directly on the paint surface to help keep it fresh.

Storing or cleaning: which should you do on your next paint project?

However, as all of the above are short-term solutions, when working on a paint project you need to decide when to store and when to clean. Both options have their pros and cons which will also be influenced by the length of the decorating job you are undertaking.

Pros and cons of storing decorating kit

+ Time saver

The obvious plus point is the time you save, explains Mark Irving. "Skipping cleaning tools between work or coats enables you to pick up directly where you left off."

+ Environmentally-friendly

“Storing not only saves time but reduces paint, water and solvent waste, which makes it useful between coats,” shares Billy Joe Jarvis. Mark Irving adds, “you will not need to use as much water, soap or chemical paint thinners when temporarily stopping work."

– Short-term solution

Realistically, storing is not a long-term option. "Storing unwashed tools should only be done for overnight or multi-day breaks. It's not suitable for long-term storage," warns Mark.

Pros and cons of cleaning decorating tools

+ Keeps kit fresh

“Thoroughly washing tools ensures that pigment is removed before it can harden,” shares Mark Irving. If it does start to harden, it can ruin bristles or roller nap.

+ Longer lasting, better finish

Cleaning instead of storing helps keep tools cleaner and Mark explains why. "Using clean gear stops old, dry residue from flaking off into fresh paint.” Brushes that are washed and dried will last longer.

– Time-consuming and messy

There's no denying that cleaning takes longer agrees Billy Joe Jarvis. “Washing brushes, rollers and paint trays will cut into project downtime," adds Mark. “It can also be messy; rinsing water-based paint down the sink or using solvents for oil-based paint creates mess and environmental waste.” Storing means you can do this less frequently.

Shop these to help store and clean your paint kit

Cleaning and storing for longer periods of time

Keeping your kit in water and wrapping it are great short-term solutions. However, if you want to keep your paintbrushes, rollers, and equipment in tip-top condition when you're not using them for a while, you need options.

1. Paintbrushes

Paintbrushes need to be cleaned correctly. “Brushes should be washed thoroughly, and bristles reshaped,” starts Mark Irving. “Store brushes inside their original cardboard keepers where possible to maintain their shape, and hang them by the hole in the handle."

Ensure you use White Spirit like this No Nonsense White Spirit from Screwfix, or a specialist brush cleaner for solvent-based paints.

2. Rollers

Cleaning paint rollers with emulsion and other water-based paints is straightforward, explains Mark Irving, “Wash rollers until the water runs clear, and then stand them upright on their ends to dry.” Don't lay them flat, as this will leave flat spots on the nap.

“Store inside, clean, dust-free bags. Food bags or small bin liners like these OKKEAI 5L Bin Liners from Amazon will do the job.

Rollers used with solvent-based paints provide a different challenge. Typically, 4-inch rollers are used with oil-based paints for painting doors, sills and woodwork. Drop the roller into a suitable container, cover with white spirit, and squeeze out paint by hand (wear gloves), or use a roller cleaner like this ROLLINGDOG 4 in 1 Paint Brush Cleaner Tool from Amazon.

You may need to repeat the task to get it totally clean. When clean, wash in hot soapy water, rinse and leave to dry.

3. Trays, scuttles, kettles and tins

Professionals typically leave their paint kettles and scuttles and only clean them out occasionally. After a job, they brush out the paint so that it coats the inside of the scuttle. Leaving this to dry means a dry layer of paint develops. Over time, as the layers increase, once they are thick enough, you can pull out the paint. It comes out whole, often with the help of a scraper.

However, DIYers can take a different approach. Use a scrubbing pad and water to clean out after every use. Alternatively, use liners like these CORAL 73336 Paintwiz Paint Scuttle Liners from Amazon.

Storing paint correctly is also key to ensure an airtight seal that keeps the paint fresh and Mark Irving shares his top tip.

After pouring paint into a container, wipe the rim before replacing the lid. "Then, place a piece of cling film over the opening. Hammer the lid down over the cling film with a rubber mallet. Storing the can upside down can create an airtight seal – but only do so if you are sure that the lid is 100% secure.”

Paint and tools should also be kept in temperature-controlled environments, adds Mark, recommending you avoid unheated spaces like garages or sheds. “Your kit should also be completely dry, as this will prevent metal cans, blades and roller frames from rusting,” he notes.

I store my paint in an understairs cupboard and my paint tools in an insulated outhouse.

Storing paintbrushes, rollers and paint correctly means you will always be ready for your next paint project, but make sure you don't need to do the job twice by understanding how to choose a paint colour and the decorating mistakes to avoid.

Traditional paper-backed sandpaper has long been a DIYer's friend, and for good reason; however, I believe there's a lesser-known alternative that could change how you tackle your sanding projects in the future.

Known as mesh sandpaper, it does the same job as traditional sandpaper, but subtle design differences make it a smart choice for many DIY projects.

You can use it with an orbital sander to sand wood, a drywall sander to smooth walls, or a hand sander with a roll of cost-effective mesh sandpaper. Here, I explore the benefits, drawbacks, and where best to use it.

What is mesh sandpaper?

Mesh sandpaper is an alternative to standard paper-based sandpaper. It's essentially strands of interwoven sandpaper with an abrasive coating. It performs much like standard sandpaper, with a few key differences.

It comes in various types, which I'll come onto discuss next. And, like standard sandpaper, it comes in various shapes, sizes, and grits, so you can use it for hand sanding or with a power tool such as a random orbital sander like this Black and Decker BDCROS18 Cordless Sander from Amazon, which includes a mesh sandpaper pad.

Types of mesh sandpaper and where to buy

Different types of mesh sandpaper are available, but Mark Irving, building expert from Build & Plumb Irving, says the most common choice is standard abrasive mesh which is: “General-purpose net sheets or rolls used for woodworking, drywall, paint removal and metalworking.”

They are also available in different shapes such as circular sanding discs for orbital sanders and drywall sanders.

Mesh sandpaper is readily available from local hardware stores such as B&Q, Screwfix and Toolstation. Alternatively, you can buy it from a host of online retailers, including Amazon.

Shop for mesh sandpapers and sanders

The pros and cons of mesh sandpaper

Mesh sandpaper isn't new; it's been around for decades, although not as long as traditional sandpaper. People commonly used it to sand plaster walls and for less DIY-focused jobs, such as automotive finishing. However, as it has evolved, it has become a popular alternative for almost any DIY project. Mark Irving shares some of the pros and cons.

Pros of mesh sandpaper

+Improved dust extraction

Traditional sandpaper has a solid backing that can trap dust on the surface, whereas mesh has many tiny holes across the entire surface. When used with a sander that has a vacuum or dust extractor, it collects almost all the dust. Also, there's no need to line up the holes on sandpaper with the holes on the sander's hook-and-loop pad.

+Longer lifespan

Dust passes through the sandpaper instead of building up, causing clogging and piling. This means that a piece of mesh sandpaper can last several times longer than traditional sandpaper.

+Better quality finish

Dust is consistently being pulled away, meaning the abrasive grain of the sandpaper is fully exposed to sand cleanly. This gives a more even rate of material removal, providing a smoother finish with less risk of surface scratches.

+Reusable

If mesh sandpaper becomes clogged with fine debris, you can easily clean it to renew the abrasive rather than throwing it away which makes it better for the environment.

Cons of mesh sandpaper

-Higher cost

Mesh sanding discs typically cost more per disc than traditional sandpaper. However, their longer lifespan can offset the higher price.

-Edge snagging

The open structure of mesh means it can easily catch on sharp corners, rough grain, or exposed edges.

-Limited grit range

Abrasive mesh is often available only in medium to coarse grits and rarely comes in ultra-coarse or ultra-fine grits. However, I would say its range is perfectly acceptable for common DIY projects like paint removal and wood sanding.

One thing I would also add is that mesh sandpaper isn't the best choice for sanding by hand. Paper-backed sandpaper is easier to use, lets you get into areas mesh struggles with, and the paper helps protect your hands.

What DIY tasks do you use it for?

I recently converted to using mesh sandpaper after getting a Black & Decker cordless orbital sander that came with a circular mesh sanding disc. I liked it so much I decided to purchase more.

I've used them with my orbital sanders mainly for paint removal and sanding windows, doors, and floors, and the beauty is their reusability. They don't clog as quickly, and you can clean them and use again. Elsewhere, I used them for prepping walls and rubbing down filler.

You can also buy mesh pads (like these Trend Mesh Abrasive Detail Sanding Sheets from Amazon) for detail sanders. This allows for more intricate jobs. Effectively, you can use mesh sandpaper on most DIY projects that standard sandpaper can handle.

If you use mesh sandpaper for hand sanding, you really need a block, or one of the best hand sanders to get a good finish and avoid destroying your hands. I sometimes wear gloves as well.

How much does mesh sandpaper cost?

In general, mesh sandpaper costs more than standard sandpaper. As an example, mesh sandpaper pads for an orbital sander, like this 50 Pcs 125mm Mesh Sanding Discs 120 Grit Hook and Loop Net Sandpaper from Amazon, cost £24. A similar set of paper-based sanding pads, like these 120 Grit Sanding Discs 50 Pcs from Amazon, costs around £10.

However, you can find cheaper mesh sandpaper, like this ProDec Advance 5m Roll 120 Grit Sanding Mesh Roll from Amazon, which costs around £5. Obviously, this is best for hand sanding or specific sanders, but not random orbital sanders with circular pads.

When not to use mesh sandpaper

While mesh sandpaper brings with it plenty of benefits, it's not always the best choice for some sanding jobs. These will often be similar jobs that standard sandpaper isn't good at tackling. One obvious downside is surfaces with exposed nail heads. As soon as the protruding head of a nail (or similar) catches the mesh, it instantly tears it.

Beyond the obvious, Mark Irving notes a few other details: "Smaller features or edges smaller than half a centimetre lack enough surface contact area for the mesh to sand effectively.” He adds, “It also lacks the solid backing necessary for effective wet slurry removal on rough metal.”

Also, if you use it on a hook-and-loop system, it needs a backing to protect the pad. Most pre-cut pads for orbital sanders will have this in place, but rolls often won't. To protect a hook-and-loop pad, you will need a pad saver like this Trend 125 mm Pad Saver for Random Orbital Sanders from Amazon.

Add mesh sandpaper to your DIY toolkit to tackle a wide range of project such as learning how to build pantry shelves, or for more renovation tasks, find out what experts recommend for sanding stairs.

Every DIYer should have a cordless drill in their power tools collection. It's an essential addition for a whole range of DIY tasks, from drilling to driving in screws and more.

However, you need to make sure it has enough power to tackle common everyday projects, and also take a closer look at the features to ensure it meets your needs.

Black & Decker has been a staple for DIYers for years, and its new brushless range, that the Black and Decker BLD783 18v Cordless Brushless Combi Drill forms part of aims to compete with the best cordless drills on the market. A good start is the brushless motor which offers better efficiency and longevity, and it offers plenty of power. Here's how it handles the DIY tasks I had lined up.

SPECIFICIATION AND FEATURES

• Motor: Brushless
• Torque: 55Nm
• Battery: 2.5Ah
• Charger: 1A
• Chuck: Keyless 13mm single-sleeve metal chuck
• Weight: 1.3kg with battery
• Warranty: 2 years
• Features: Keyless chuck, variable speed trigger, two-speed, LED worklight, double-sided screwdriver bit, magnetic bit holder, 12 clutch positions, battery level indicator

Shop the Black and Decker BLD783 18v Cordless Brushless Combi Drill today

Unboxing and first impressions

The excitement of a new power tool hasn't waned over the years; I'm just wiser about what to expect. Black & Decker has been a DIY staple for years; in fact, my first cordless drill was from the brand, so I knew what to expect.

The drill turned up in a presentation box as I was reviewing it – which won't be the same when you buy online or in store. However, consumers have various purchasing options, typically the bare tool, or a kit with a battery and charger, such as the Black and Decker BLD783 18v Cordless Brushless Combi Drill set from Wickes, which also includes a case.

The drill comes with a 2.5Ah Li-Ion battery, which is a step up from what I expected, but it includes a 1A charger, which means longer recharge times. For context, many power tools (usually at a higher price) include a 3A charger for faster charging. But you generally get what you pay for, and a 1A charger helps keep the BLD783's RRP down.

The drill is relatively lightweight at around 1kg (without the battery), compact, and fits comfortably in the hand thanks to its soft rubber grip. It has 10 clutch positions for driving in screws; but is that enough? Only testing will tell.

Keeping the clutch company are drill and hammer drill modes, standard for most combi drills, plus a two-speed selector. Again, pretty standard features.

It has a keyless 13mm metal chuck, which looks like it can handle any DIY job. It includes a double-ended screwdriver bit, and a strong magnetic bit holder keeps it firmly in place when not in use. I would have liked to see a bit holder, like this Erbauer 1/4" Hex Magnetic Bit Holder from Screwfix, included for more flexibility. It also has a strong LED work light that automatically turns on when in use and lights up the work area.

The Black and Decker BLD783 18v Cordless Brushless Combi Drill was currently ticking all the right boxes, so I was excited to start testing.

SETTING UP

Before testing, I like to fully charge the battery to ensure I get accurate results. The supplied battery was partly charged; the battery level indicator lights show one of three lights, which means it could be anywhere between 18 and 47%, according to the manual. I didn't bother timing how long it took to get to full power. I prefer to leave that to noting when the battery stops powering the Black and Decker BLD783 18v Cordless Brushless Combi Drill, so I get a more realistic timing.

With the battery fully charged, all three battery level indicator lights were on display. And as you might expect, adding and removing the battery was simple. Before I added a bit, I moved the forward/reverse control button to neutral, which locks the variable speed switch, so you can't accidentally fire up the drill. Alternatively, you can remove the battery for peace of mind.

Next was the real part of setting up: selecting the speed, choosing one of the three modes: driving, drilling or hammer drilling. If driving screws, you can choose between 1 and 10. I always start in the middle and adjust based on the job. For drilling or hammer drilling, simply choose the appropriate setting.

Finally, I chose the preferred speed selector. There are two options: 1 for high torque and 2 for high speed. I chose 1 to start, since I intended to drive in some large screws, which I used an impact driver for before. You'll need to adjust the settings for different jobs (more of this later).

Finally, it was adding a bit. I started with the supplied driver bit. The 13mm keyless chuck is easy to use; add the bit and use two hands to tighten or remove the bit. A nice touch was the words ‘GRIP’ and ‘RELEASE’ embossed into the chuck sleeve to ensure you're twisting in the right direction. The bit felt secure and was easy to remove, but as always, the real test is seeing the drill in action.

How well did the Black & Decker BLD783 cordless drill work?

As the Black and Decker BLD783 18v Cordless Brushless Combi Drill came with a single double-ended drill bit, I decided to run it out as my first test. I had some 100mm screws I needed to use on some fencing. I thought this was a good initial test. I set the torque to 10 and the speed to 1. The screws powered into fence panels and posts with no problem.

Next up was smaller screws into plywood and MDF. I adjusted the torque for this easier task, setting it to six; again, no problem. You will need to try different torque settings for different tasks, so you don't drive screws in too deep. The variable-speed trigger helps, too. Realistically, I managed to get eight different speeds and hold for the drilling process. More than enough for any DIY tasks you're going to tackle.

For the next stage of tests, I switched to drilling mode and set the speed selector to one (for better torque). To make sure I was using the right drill bits, I used a selection of DeWalt masonry bits from Screwfix that I already own. I tested 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm masonry bits, starting with drilling into brick. Obviously, the smaller bits tackled the task much quicker and easier than the 10mm bit. However, the Black and Decker BLD783 18v Cordless Brushless Combi Drill didn't flinch while drilling. The 55Nm of torque on offer did its job.

To test a little further, and to satisfy my curiosity, I changed the speed selector to two and tried the same tests. Of course, I set the forward/reverse control button to the centre to lock the trigger switch and avoid any unwanted accidents. As I expected, it didn't work as well and at times the chuck couldn't cope, with the bit coming loose. But don't let this distract from how well it worked using the correct speed setting.

Next, I switched to wood drill bits and set the speed selector to 2. These worked a treat and had no problem drilling into any softwood I could get my hands on. The final test was hammer-drill mode. Typically, cordless drills are designed to tackle soft concrete or denser brick, and the Black and Decker BLD783 18v Cordless Brushless Combi Drill passed the test again. However, I tried it on hard concrete to test its limits, and unsurprisingly it struggled.

Again, don't let this put you off, as the Black and Decker BLD783 18v Cordless Brushless Combi Drill did a little more than I expected, and sits among the best cordless drills I've tried.

BATTERY LIFE

A cordless power tool lives and dies by its battery and charger, and like any DIYer, I want a battery and charger that work well. The Black & Decker BLD783 18v Cordless Brushless Combi Drill came with a 2.5Ah battery, a step up from what I'd had with previous Black & Decker cordless tools. The charger was a standard 1A charger, which is a staple for power tools at the lower end of the market.

While this keeps the price down, they take longer to charge a battery. I've said it many times: you really need to invest in a second battery to make sure you can carry on using the drill. You can currently get a backup Black + Decker 18V POWERCONNECT 2.5Ah Lithium-Ion Battery from Argos for £25.00.

Charging times weren't quick, taking well over two hours to charge the 2.5Ah PowerConnect battery back to full. I suggest you charge it at the end of the day so it's fully charged and ready for the next day.

The battery itself was much more pleasing, offering around 40-45 minutes for a set of various tasks, including driving screws and drilling into wood and brick. In reality, this means you can get around 3 or more hours of working time as a rough guide (as you won't be using it constantly).

Should you buy the Black & Decker BLD783 18v Cordless Brushless Combi Drill?

Black & Decker has been the DIYer's friend for as long as I can remember; it is its core market and the Black & Decker BLD783 18v Cordless Brushless Combi Drill fits neatly into that category. It sits at a price point that makes it very tempting, especially with a battery, charger and case included. And in my opinion, it's a slight step up in quality and power that makes it much closer, or better than cordless combi drills that sit around a similar price point.

It offers plenty of torque; the stated 55Nm is more than most drills of a similar ilk, plus a decent-sized battery and features that suggest Black & Decker has put thought into the range. I liked the brushless motor, strong LED worklight, magnetic bit holder, and good variable-speed trigger, to name a few features.

It's not perfect; the single drill bit seemed like a token gesture, and the charger is slow. But with the money you save, you can buy the driver and drill bits you want, so you have a drill that will tackle most of your DIY projects with ease.

IFA Berlin is one of the world’s biggest annual tech showcases, with hundreds of exhibitors including appliance manufacturers, gadget makers and smart home technology providers. Look past the hectic crowds and the karate-kicking robots, and there are always some interesting new home tech ideas to discover.

As a home improvement enthusiast, I was eager to traipse the halls to find the best new products that could improve your home, upgrade your DIY and generally make life easier.

From portable heaters that adapt their settings to suit your biometric data, to a dishwasher that uses a camera to see exactly which items you’ve loaded and washes accordingly, here's where home tech is heading.

Appliances that adapt to the body

We all know that smart appliances adapt to the user depending on what you ask them to do – but at IFA 2026, the air treatment brand Dreo revealed plans to integrate its tech more deeply with our individual needs.

Rather than you having to tell it what you want it to do, a new range of appliances will use biometric data from devices like smart watches to automatically adjust their settings. The likely first-use case, potentially scheduled for rollout in 2027, will see biometrics such as sleep scores used to tweak the settings on Dreo’s electric heaters – while the user is asleep.

“We call it ‘Dreo Air Intelligence’, and it’s an AI-powered air management system that connects to different product categories and responds to personal data,” said top Dreo designer, Yunpeng Zhao.

“The first factor we’re looking at is sleep quality, but we’ll also target other aspects of how air quality affects us all, using biometrics like wellness scores. Of course, users can choose whether to share personal data or not, but everyone should have the option to access this technology at an affordable price.”

Dreo is partnering with Finnish wearables specialist, Polar, to realise this futuristic vision. “We already have the data to show that a one- or two-degree deviation in temperature can decrease deep sleep, but the environment is not yet listening,” said Spiros Andreou, Polar’s head of global industry and technology partnerships.

“[This use of technology is] starting with sleep, and it can go from there. Understanding the person is what makes the whole thing meaningful.”

One of the first smart appliances to use biometric inputs is likely to be the Dreo Whole Room Heater 720S. This is a compact portable electric heater that heats evenly towards all sides when its top panel is raised up, or more directionally with the top panel down. The device, which will join Argos’s selection of Dreo heaters soon, also has a cooling mode and LED lighting that can be synchronised to streaming media.

Plug-in solar tech advances for UK homes

Just a week before IFA Berlin 2026, the Department for Energy Security and Net Zero made plug-in solar panels legal to buy and use across the UK. This means you can buy wall or floor-mounted panels, connect theb to a unit that converts DC electricity into household-friendly AC, and then plug this into a standard wall socket so that the current can be used to power active appliances.

At IFA, several leading household power brands showcased products that can play into a plug-in solar setup. One company, Jackery, recently announced a new line of solar battery systems to use with plug-in solar panels, including the 1,200W SolarVault 3 Pro, which is due to launch soon.

“The big difference with these set-ups is that you can just plug the panels in rather than having them hardwired, so you can save money on installation,” said Yuanchi Yang, the product manager at Jackery’s IFA booth.

Anker, which you might know for its power banks, also showed impressive solar storage options including the SOLIX Solarbank Max (not yet available in the UK), which can work with up to 20 solar panels. British households can already make use of the brand’s SOLIX Solarbank 4 E5000 Pro, which stores up to 5,000Wh of solar-derived energy.

“Solar is a big topic in the UK as you can now have plug-in solar, but it’s been this way in Germany for 25 years,” said Michelle Kreisig, head of PR & public affairs at Anker SOLIX. “We already have the smart home machines, but energy is what drives them. Our idea is to make it very simple to get that energy via plug-in solar.”

Miele’s smartest dishwasher yet

Some of the screens around Miele’s cavernous IFA 2026 booth displayed a bold statement: ‘The end of housework is in sight’.

This message might have been slightly over-optimistic, but the brand’s new top-of-the-line dishwasher, the G8 Diamond, seems like it might be a step in the right direction for well-resourced households. Its UK launch is estimated for April 2027 and we're interested to see if this new product could make it onto our list of best integrated dishwashers.

“There’s an in-built camera that sees what is inside the dishwasher and how fully it is loaded, so the appliance can adapt its settings to suit,” explained Miele's communications manager, Ines Mundhenke.

“It recognises things that are hard to dry, like plastic pots, or things that are hard to clean inside, like bottles. You close the drawers, the camera takes a photo, and AI recognises the items automatically and selects one of three extras: extra drying for plastics, ‘intense zone’ for pots and pans, and bottle cleaning for bottles.”

While the G8 Diamond is sure to be an investment at launch, Ines pointed out that Miele’s high-end innovations tend to make their way into more accessible machines. “Miele premium features from 2025 are now being added to less expensive models,” she said.

A revolutionary drill

If you’re partial to a spot of DIY, then you’re probably aware that mainstream cordless drill designs haven’t evolved much over recent decades. It was refreshing, then, to visit the Spesyn booth at IFA and witness the Spesyn Tool 3 in action – also known as the ‘ST3’.

Spesyn’s overseas sales manager, George Wu, showed me a variety of features that cumulatively set this drill apart from existing cordless drills, including drilling depth adjustment via a manually adjustable collar, USB-C charging, a tapping mode alongside more commonplace drill and driver functions, and power and torque settings that can be selected via a dial and digital display.

After arriving home, I was also pleased to learn that the ST3 had won the IFA Innovation Award for Best Design at this year’s show. Pre-orders are available via the Spesyn website.

Multi-drum washing machines

If you’re anything like me, you might sometimes find yourself wishing you could throw your trainers into your washing machine along with your clothing – but you hold back out of a reluctance to mix slightly dirty and very dirty items together.

Multi-drum washing machines are here to solve this conundrum, providing two or more drums so that washing can be compartmentalised. A few models, including the Hoover MultiWash, launched in the UK last year, and judging by the variety of these washers on show at IFA, the category is on an upward trajectory.

A new Hisense model, the X-Zone Master, caught my eye. Featuring two 1kg mini-drums alongside its 12kg main drum, this washer promises a more versatile and hygienic approach to doing the laundry at home – although it is not yet available in this country.

AI ecosystems for the home

AI-equipped devices were everywhere at IFA 2026, from kitchen appliances to smart assistants and security cameras. It soon became clear that several large brands were on a mission to position themselves at the centre of this latest smart home revolution, by providing technologies that bring AI devices and associated data together in an efficient domestic platform.

Anker’s new AI hub, MindBase, is a physical device that processes information from connected gadgets locally, so that it can rapidly enable advanced features such as visitor recognition.

“It’s essentially a huge brain for the home that brings together appliances so they can speak to each other,” said Anker’s UK PR & communications lead, Kate Smart. “You can ask the MindBase questions, and it connects to devices including video doorbells, security cameras and robot vacuum cleaners.”

Another candidate for smart home hegemony is Hisense, which unveiled its ‘AI Companion Suite’ at IFA. “The focus is that appliances such as the fridge, dishwasher, oven, TV and washing machine can all control each other,” said a Hisense representative. “For example, the fridge has three cameras inside, and it can suggest recipes based on the available ingredients, then send one to the oven. When the oven finishes, it sends information to the dishwasher so that it can select the right programme. If you look to the future, everything will be integrated with AI. This is the first step.”

Many of the products and technologies announced at IFA 2026 will become available over the coming months, or in 2027. If you can’t wait that long for a smarter home, read our guides to IKEA’s new smart home range and the best smart hubs to simplify home automation.

Investing in a mitre saw is a smart move if you're a serious DIYer. It takes the hard work out of crosscuts and delivers accurate cuts for consistency across projects. They're ideal for getting clean cuts on decking boards, fencing, and studwork.

But there is so much more to a mitre saw. It's the perfect companion for creating precise, reliable bevels and mitres too. It's also ideal for ensuring architrave, trim, and skirting boards always fit as expected.

Here I run the Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw through a host of tests to see if it's ready to tackle your DIY projects precisely and accurately.

Specifications and features

• Motor: 1500W
• Max mitre: 50 degrees / -50 degrees
• Max bevel: 45 degrees
• Weight: 11.2kg
• Cord length: 3m
• Blade diameter: 210mm
• Max cut depth: 65mm / 45-degree - 38mm
• No load speed: 3750 min
• Warranty: 3-year limited
• Features: Multi-material blade included, laser guidance, trench cut facility, 230mm slide and integrated carry handles

Shop the Evolution Mitre Saw today

UNBOXING & FIRST IMPRESSIONS

The first thing I noticed was the box size. It was impressively compact for a product I was hoping would be one of the best mitre saws with a slide. This made it easy to carry (even at nearly 14kg), and as the box itself was adorned with plenty of product photos and info, I felt like I already knew the Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw before the box was even opened.

Opening the box revealed a host of cardboard components securely holding the all of the various parts in place. One thing I immediately noticed the blade wasn't attached; this came separately. The box included Evolution's Multipurpose TCT (Tungsten Carbide Tipped) blade, available from Screwfix, which is designed to cut wood, mild steel, aluminium, and plastic, and has 24 teeth.

As an extra addition to review, Evolution provided me with a general wood blade for comparison, but this doesn't come in the box. However, the Evolution Power Tools HTC210WRAGE Wood Carbide-Tipped Blade from Amazon is a good option.

Removing all the components revealed the various parts, including the blade, a dust bag, dust bag adapter, slide rail cover, machine table extensions, a three-piece hold-down clamp, a front clamp, and a double-ended hex key.

The build felt solid and sturdy, with a mix of mainly metal and plastic components, which wasn't surprising given the Evolution's very reasonable price point. However, most of the plastic parts felt well-made and up to the task they were designed for.

While the box and packaging were recyclable, they weren't really reusable. Once I had removed all the components and put them together, I couldn't fit the saw back in the box. It's a small point, but I would have liked to store the saw in the box. Instead, it ended up in my recycling bin.

SETTING UP

You might think that setting up a mitre saw is quick, and simply a case of taking it out the box, plugging it in and you're ready to go. It's rarely that simple though, as you usually need to add a few extras, such as a dust bag and extensions for holding longer lengths of wood. However, with the Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, you do need to follow a few more steps to get this particular type of saw up and running.

The saw comes in parts, so it requires some minor assembly. For instance, you need to install the sliding carriage and blade, and add machine table extensions. There's also the option to add a slide rail protector and, of course, the dust bag.

Admittedly, this didn't take long, but the instructions could have been clearer, and I struggled to get the flange bolt (which helps hold the blade in place) moving. A supplied double-ended hex key helps remove it, but I needed a squirt of WD-40 (available from Amazon) and extra leverage to get it out. The next time was thankfully easier.

In the manual, it says that by "assembling the machine, the owner/operator will gain valuable insight into its many advanced features." I can see this from both sides. It's ideal for DIYers who haven't yet had the joy of owning a mitre saw – and admittedly, its price point directs it towards this market. However, I would have been much happier if I could have taken it straight out of the box, made a few minor adjustments and started using it straight away.

There are a few quick, easy tweaks to make to make sure everything is accurate, but the tools aren't included. But I only needed an Allen key (try this Hi-Spec Small Metric Hex Allen Key Wrench Set from Amazon) and a spanner. And what DIYer doesn't have these? Not many.

Once I set up the saw (and checked it as the manual suggested), I liked a lot about it. And the more I thought about the quality on offer for the price, the more I liked it.

Simple features like the placement of handles for carrying, the large bevel lock handle, the quality lower blade guard, the slide rail protector, the blade guard locking trigger, cable guides and the easy-to-use arbor lock button, to name a few, were all elements that won me over.

How well did it work?

With everything secure and a few minor tweaks made, the Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw was ready to get down to business. As mentioned, the blade it's supplied with is standard for most mitre saws. It is a jack-of-all-trades blade and a smart choice for most DIYers. To test it, I made a host of cuts on plastic pipe of various thicknesses, along with cuts to thin, soft metal strips. It handled all of them with relative ease and left very little burr.

Next on the list was a host of woods, which is what I typically use a power saw for. To start, I tried simple crosscuts with plywood, MDF, softwood, and hardwood. Everything went smoothly, although at one point a short piece of timber went astray; but that was my fault for not securing it properly. To ensure this didn't happen again, I made good use of the hold and front clamps.

The hold-down clamp was easy to set up and worked a treat. The front clamp involved more work and didn't hold thinner wood as well as I'd hoped. It still did the job, but I think a rectangular head would have worked better. The cut was pretty clean, although it left a little breakout on one edge, but nothing drastic.

The Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw has a max cutting width of 230mm and 65mm depth, which is enough for shelving, fencing, and floorboards or similar. I measured up to see how true the claim was, and it matched pretty much as expected. When cutting, the slide rail protector was a smart addition, helping to keep wood dust from clogging up the rails.

Next up were mitres and bevels. I tested this with all the woods I mentioned previously. The bevel lock handle was big, making it easy to adjust and secure your chosen angle (from 0-45 degrees). I tested at 15, 30, and 45 degrees; all cuts were easy and accurate.

Setting up the mitre was simple with stops at 0, 15, 22.5, 30, and 45 degrees. However, you can stop anywhere between 50 and -50 degrees. Everything was accurate and much the same as crosscuts. I can't continue without mentioning the laser guide either which is ideal and accurate for wood placement.

To finish testing, I replaced the Evolution multipurpose blade with an Evolution general wood blade with a saw TPI of 30. I performed the same tests as with the multi-purpose blade, obviously on wood only. The cuts were again clean and smooth, with less breakout. As I expected, this blade was a better choice for wood than the multi-purpose blade.

As with all types of power tools, remember to protect your hearing. The Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw isn’t particularly loud, but at over 100 decibels, I suggest investing in ear defenders like these Dr.meter Ear Defenders from Amazon.

Should you buy the Evolution R210SMS+ mitre saw?

The Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw should be on your to-buy list if you're a serious DIYer looking to replace your current saw, or invest in your first mitre saw. It sits at a price point that belies the quality, features, and finish you get for the money.

Many elements like the carry handle placement, cable management, slide rail protector and arbour lock button, are simple examples of the thought that went into the design of the saw and this further demonstrated with its performance.

Admittedly, you have to assemble the saw yourself and add the supplied general-purpose blade. So, if you have never owned a mitre saw, it does help to get to know it before you start using it. If you do a lot of wood cutting, I suggest investing in a specialist wood blade for more finesse.

The Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw isn't perfect, but it offers a lot at a price point that is hard to resist. In my opinion, you can't go far wrong with it and I'm sure you wouldn't be disappointed if you went ahead and purchased it today.

When you need smart, crisp, clean edges when sanding wood, or want to turn rough timber into smooth, flat surfaces, you'll need to call upon the talents of an electric planer. It's the perfect power tool for removing small amounts of wood to get a precise finish or fit.

While you can do the job by hand, power tools generally make the job easier and an electric planer is no exception. Here I take a look at the Titan TTB876PLN electric planer, an own-brand, budget-friendly power tool from Screwfix.

Will it match more expensive tools, or will its budget status be its undoing? I take it for a test drive to find out.

SPECIFICATIONS AND FEATURES

• Motor: 900W
• Cord length: 2.5 metres
• Weight: 3.6kg
• Cutting depth: 0-3mm
• Cutting width: 82mm
• Rebate cutting depth: 0-12mm
• Dust port size: 35mm
• No load speed: 16000 min
• Guarantee: 2 years
• Features: Guide fence (aka rip fence), rebate depth gauge, right and left dust ejection, dust bag, park rest to protect the blade, trigger lock button

Get the Titan Electric Planer today

UNBOXING & FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Like most budget-friendly power tools, the Titan TTB970NST 3mm electric planer wasn't big on packaging. A single bold colour, a photo of the product and snippets of essential information. Opening the box, the theme continued: the planer fits neatly inside, helping keep it steady. It also came with a plain white box and a zip-up dust bag. Inside the box are the parts for a guide/rip fence, a rebate depth guide, and a couple of basic tools: a hex key and a small wrench which were a welcome addition.

Gazing at the various parts, I wasn't quite sure what was what, but as an experienced DIYer, I thought I'd have a go at assembling it. It took a while to work out, so even if you are a regular to DIY, take note that a quick glimpse at the instruction manual means you will get it set up a lot sooner.

The guide/rip fence comprises two parts, held together with a wing nut and mounting bolt. This in turn is held in place by a wing screw. The guide/rip fence is easy to adjust, but you need to screw in the wing screw by hand. This is easy and works well. The same principle applies to the rebate depth gauge. This wasn't as easy to install, but still straightforward.

Hard to miss was the dust extraction crossover lever on the front of the planer. This was basic but functional. I wasn't sure how well it would work, but I was interested to find out.

The planer's general build felt basic, but still sturdy, weighty, and solid – pretty much what I'd expect of a budget-friendly planer. The cutting depth adjustment knob wasn't as smooth as I hoped, and the measurement marks didn't stand out that much, although they were easy enough to see.

Unfortunately it didn't include a carry-case or bag to transport and protect the Titan planer, but it did have a basic park rest (most do). This is like a mini stand that stops the planer from lying flat on a surface. This prevents the blade from damage, and the surface it's place on. My first-ever electric planer didn't have one, which proved to be its undoing and I ended up having to purchase a new one.

SETTING UP

Electric planers are pretty much set to go straight out of the box, but there are a few things to note before you head into a project, especially with budget power tools. A plane consists of two plates: front and back. The blade needs to be level with the back plate, so check before you start. A simple way to do this is to adjust the cutting depth knob to 1 or 2mm. This will raise the front plate.

Next, get a straight edge, place it on the back plate and rotate the blade to make sure it lines up with the back plate. The Titan was perfectly lined up, so no adjustments were needed. However, if you do, it's straightforward (just follow the manual) and the necessary tools are included.

After checking the blade, I attached the supplied dust bag. You can attach it left or right, depending on what you are working on. Don't forget to adjust the dust extraction crossover lever so it directs debris straight into the bag. It's incredibly simple to use: push left or right. It's basic but effective. Also, make sure the bag is zipped up or you'll find yourself needing to use one of the best vacuums for builder's dust to clear up the mess.

You can use the planer freehand; the front plate has a V-groove for 45-degree bevels. However, for accuracy, use the supplied parallel guide. You just need to assemble and attach it. This gives you enough flexibility to make straight cuts across the full 82mm cutting width. I wasn't quite sure which side to put it on, as both sides had very similar moulded guides and a thread to attach.

On closer inspection, it became obvious where it was meant to go. The opposite side was for the rebate depth gauge. The only problem I had was that it wasn't easy to get the depth accurate. More obvious marks would have been a welcome addition. With everything attached and set up, it was time for the fun part: testing.

PERFORMANCE

The corded Titan comes with a 2.5m cord, which is perfectly adequate, but you'll likely need an extension cord like this IONOS 2 Socket Cable Reel from Amazon to work wherever you want. While cordless drills and other power tools have their advantages, the benefit of no battery is that I wouldn't need to worry about how long the planer would run for. I could keep going as long as I needed to.

The first test was to smarten up the edges of the wooden top of my old dining table. To start, I set the cutting depth adjustment knob to 0.5mm as I prefer to take a slower and steady approach. Trying to remove too much wood in one go isn't good for the planer motor, and can give you a rough finish.

Setting up the parallel guide was quick and simple, and it was straight into action. Using the lock button, the blade breezed through the softwood edge and gave me a neat finish. I did a couple of runs to get the finish I wanted. I upped the depth to 1mm and got the same finish. To finish the job, I used the 45-degree chamfer groove integrated into the front plates. This is a simple guide, but it worked effectively.

The next test was creating a rebate in 18mm plywood. Setting the depth accurately could have been easier. The rebate gauge has measurements for millimetres and inches. I don't use inches but the millimetre marks are set at 2mm intervals, although 1mm would have been nice. They line up with a notch on the planer which means there's a little bit of guesswork here, but nothing that will make a big difference for most DIY projects.

I went for a 4mm rebate, and the planer struggled a little when I went across the grain, so I had to give it a few runs, but the Titan still did a good job. As you might expect, going with the grain was easier.

The final test was planing rough 70mm timber fence posts to get a smoother finish. I started with 1.5mm, and the Titan went through with ease. Then I tried 2mm and 3mm to get a better idea of the planer. No problem at either depth; admittedly, timber fence posts aren't the toughest test, but it did a good job.

Final verdict

For the price tag, you can't go far wrong with the Titan TTB970NST 3mm electric planer. It obviously lacks the quality and features - such as a brushless motor - of a more expensive model. However, if you're an everyday DIYer who only needs an electric planer for the odd DIY job, it fits the bill nicely.

The inclusion of a parallel guide, rebate depth gauge and dust bag means you're ready to go straight out of the box. Plus, it includes a couple of tools to make any adjustments or change the blade.

The park rest was a basic but much-appreciated addition, helping protect the blade when you put the Titan down. If you don’t want to spend big on an electric planer, I'd certainly recommend adding this to your to-buy list.

A circular saw is an essential addition to any DIYer's tool collection. It's the perfect companion for crosscuts and getting neat, straight edges on wooden boards. It makes labour-intensive sawing quick, easy and accurate.

A cordless version like this Einhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL will sit neatly alongside a jigsaw and the other types of power saws in your collection. Having a variety of options means you have something to tackle whatever DIY or home renovation project you're working on now, or in the future.

Read on to find out how good this model is, if I'd recommend it, and more importantly, if it sounds like one you need to add to your tool kit.

SPECS AND FEATURES

• Motor: Brushless
• Bore size: 20mm
• Blade size: 190mm
• Weight: 3.4kg
• Cutting depth (90 degrees): 65mm
• Cutting depth (45 degrees): 45mm
• Blade thickness: 1.6mm
• Warranty: 10 years
• Features: 1 x parallel stop, LED light, tool for removing blade, locking button

UNBOXING & FIRST IMPRESSIONS

I've worked with various circular saw brands, and used other Einhell power tools, so I was intrigued to see what the EEinhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL had to offer.

The recyclable cardboard packaging gives a quick window into what lies ahead, including a clear image of the tool, blade size, cutting depth and brushless motor. But the battery sticker is more prominent; it tells you the saw uses an Einhell PXC battery, and that the battery and charger aren't included. While I wish it had them, at least it's clear from the start that you can't unbox it and use it straight away.

Inside the box, the saw sits neatly in a cardboard insert that holds it in place, with a cutout for the already-attached blade, so that it sits securely. After removing the Einhell circular saw, I was curious if anything else was in the box.

Under the insert, I found the shiny and sturdy metal parallel stop (also known as a rip fence). This had incremental measurements up to 20 cm and seven inches. It fits easily, though I would have liked to see millimetre marks between the whole and half markings.

Now to the best bit: the saw itself. Picking up the unit, it felt well-built and well-balanced, with and without a battery. It wasn't the lightest, but the soft-grip handle felt secure in the hand. The aluminium soleplate looked solid, and the plastic blade guard felt sturdy and up to the job.

Finally, I tried the locking lever for cutting depth, the locking screw for the parallel stop and the locking lever for the mitre setting. These were all plastic, and while sturdy enough, I can't help but wonder how long they will last.

SETTING UP

As a cordless tool, the Einhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL is easy to set up, and like the other best circular saws, there are a number of uses for a circular saw.

To start, I left it at the default settings: max cutting depth and 0 degrees on the soleplate for 90-degree cuts to ensure I got straight cuts. All I needed to do was slip in the battery.

When I did make a few adjustments, I removed the battery. A lock button ensures the ON/OFF trigger cannot be used, as an extra precaution. But after my previous experiences with circular saws, I always remove the battery.

The Einhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL has a TCT 190mm blade (the largest you typically find on consumer circular saws) with a 20mm bore hole and 24 teeth, which is pretty standard for most circular saws aimed at DIYers. If you want a more subtle cutting blade. It's easy to change the blade.

A neat feature is the saw blade wrench that's integrated into the saw body. I didn't spot this immediately, but thankfully I did before I started testing the blade-change feature.

To keep the wrench company, a spindle lock sits on the front of the body. You need to engage this before changing the blade. This wasn't the easiest feature to use. It took a few tries to get comfortable, and it needs some muscle to hold the button in place.

Once I did, removing the spindle was simple enough. To finish, move the blade guard out of the way and take out the blade. I did this purely to test the feature. I replaced the blade, ready to start testing.

How well did the Einhell perform?

As I've already mentioned, the Einhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL doesn't come with a battery or charger. For testing, I used an Einhell PXC 4.0Ah Sealed battery and an Einhell 2.0Ah Power X-change battery (available from Toolstation) as I already owned these.

The saw comes with a TCT 190mm blade with 24 teeth already installed. So the quality of the cuts in this test are based on this blade. For smoother cuts, consider a blade with more teeth like this Saxton TCT19080T20B TCT Circular Wood Saw Blade from Amazon.

The first test involved some simple crosscuts and straight long cuts with the parallel stop on 18mm plywood. For the crosscuts, I went freehand, which was no problem. The cuts were straight and cleaner than I expected, and were almost good enough for more jobs that need more finesse.

Next, I did the same again, but this time on some 9mm MDF and 27mm hardwood. The results were similar – clean edges and cuts, though not so much on the MDF. The parallel stop was sturdy and easy to use, with a max of three slots to help steady the stop. A minor niggle was that tightening the locking screw shifted the stop slightly.

Next up, it was time to test the cutting depth. By default, the saw is set to the max cutting depth of 65mm. This gives the opportunity to try anything in between. The measurement marker has 5mm increments, which is ideal for most DIY projects. However, if you needed something in between, such as 18mm, it required a bit of guesswork. I tried 10 and 15 mm, and both were pretty accurate. A sturdy plastic lever made it simple to choose a depth.

Next, I tested the mitre settings. Located near the front, it has 5 degree notches and a maximum angle of 50 degrees. The plastic lever to release the mitre feature was sturdy enough, but it was loose-fitting on the metal spindle underneath.

What I did like about the lever was that I could lift and move it on the spindle so it was always in a position to ensure a tight fit. I tested 15, 30 and 45 degree cuts, all giving clean, accurate results. I continued using the Einhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL until the battery ran out, which was over 100 cuts, and each cut was very similar to the first.

One final point to make is the noise level. The saw isn't particularly loud, but you should still wear ear protection, especially if you use it for extended periods. This Site SEP313 Ear defender with Adjustable headband from B&Q is worth considering.

BATTERY LIFE

Although the Einhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL isn't supplied with a battery or charger, as I already owned an Einhell PXC 4.0Ah Sealed battery (available on Amazon) and an Einhell 3A Power X Charger (available from B&Q), I was able to use these to get the saw up and running. Alternatively, you can purchase both together when you buy this Einhell 18V 4.0Ah Plus Lithium-Ion Battery and Charger Set from Amazon.

The official runtime for a 4.0Ah battery (according to their website) is around 68 minutes. Obviously this depends on usage; thinner boards use less power than denser, thicker boards. So while battery life isn't an exact science, this one definitely made it past the 60-minute mark, so pretty close to the manufacturer's suggestion.

For comparison, I used my 2.0Ah Power X-change batteries that came with my Einhell cordless drill. These lasted around 15-20 minutes. So, as expected, more power equals more minutes.

As I mentioned before, I have an Einhell Power X-Charger 3A; this took around 70 minutes to charge the battery. The charger is straightforward to use. Red and green LEDs indicate whether the battery is charging or fully charged. The battery has a trio of lights to show the current battery level.

If you want more power for faster charge times, you can try the Power X-Fastcharger 4A, available from the Einhell site for £30.

FINAL VERDICT

A decent circular saw is definitely a smart addition to any DIYer's tool collection, and that is exactly what you get with the Einhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL. Admittedly, it doesn't come with a battery or charger, which will add to the price, and it's not the cheapest on the market. However, you are getting a quality circular saw that is well-built, sturdy, and packed with features that work well.

It operates smoothly, feels secure in the hand, has a handy lock button, and is relatively quiet (compared to some circular saws I've used). Cuts were neat and accurate, and I found no problem sawing through softwood or hardwood. I have to say, there's little I didn't like about the Einhell, and I'd definitely add it to your to-buy list.

If you do decide to add this one to your collection, find out more of my tips in getting the best out of it, in how to use a circular saw.

A nail gun is a smart and simple way to speed up a DIY project. They're much faster than the old-school hammer method and generally more effective. They use a burst of power to drive a nail or staple into wood in a split second. This lets you quickly move on to the next fixing point.

There are two common types: first fix and second fix. Nail guns and stapler combos, known as second fix (which we are reviewing here) are ideal for securing wooden boards to frames, nailing fence panels to timber, fixing skirting boards, fitting architrave and fastening fabric to wooden furniture frames.

Here, I run the Titan TTB970NST second-fix nail gun/stapler through a series of tests to see how well it tackles the DIY jobs I had in store and if it makes it onto my list of must-have tools.

SPECS AND FEATURES

• Motor: 1900W
• Magazine volume: 100
• Cord length: 2 metres
• Weight: 1.45kg
• Fixing sizes: Nails - 15mm-32mm / Staples - 15mm-25mm
• Nail/Staple type: 18ga
• Firing rate: Max 30 per minute
• Guarantee: 2 years
• Features: Adjustable impact control, Nail - 2 x 32mm strip x 50, Staples - 2 x 20mm strip x 50 / 4 x 25mm strip x 50

UNBOXING & FIRST IMPRESSIONS

My first impression was that it was a basic piece of kit, but it didn't surprise me as the Titan TTB970NST 32mm Second Fix Electric Nail Gun Stapler is a Screwfix own-brand tool. This means it's offered at a very respectable, budget-friendly price of under £35.

There was a distinct lack of packaging – just the box, which held the corded nail gun/stapler, a small box of brad nails, and 20mm and 25mm staples. I like the fact that there was little packaging to get rid of, but a bit more would have kept the contents from moving around in the box.

I also would have liked more nails in the box, but there are plenty to start a DIY project. You can also purchase an additional pack of 2000 for around £5. One thing missing from the box was a carry or hard case to store the tool. But that's par for the course for power tools that sit at the budget end of the market.

The unit is solid enough, with a functional soft grip, but it doesn't match the more expensive power tools I've used. The trigger is a little clunky, and the plastic elements of the magazine suggest they weren't built to last, but time and testing will reveal more. The impact control slider was simple and straightforward, nothing too fancy here.

My overall impression was that I was getting a budget-friendly tool, so my expectations weren't as high as they might have been if I were investing in a high-end power tool. However, I headed into testing with an open mind.

SETTING UP

Setting up the Titan TTB970NST itself wasn't too involved. However, you do need to choose the right fixing for the task you are tackling. Introducing the supplied brad nails (nails with tiny heads similar to panel pins) was straightforward. Simply pull back the fastener retainer and twist it onto the retainer holder. Then place the nail or staple strip into the magazine. Just make sure you follow the insertion instructions. It's pretty simple, but if you've never used a nail gun, it's easy to get wrong.

To finish, pull back and twist the retainer back into place to hold the nails or staples in place. The plastic retainer didn't fill me with confidence; it wasn't a heavyweight piece of kit, but it did the job. But I'm not sure how long it will last.

To finish, set the adjustable impact control slider button. The handle has '+' and '-' moulded into it to help you choose, but they're the same colour as the body, so they're hard to see. If you're using it for the first time, it's recommended to set it to the lowest setting and test it on the material you're using for the project. You can adjust accordingly while testing.

Don't forget to wear the appropriate safety gear before you start. I recommend safety goggles (such as these Site SEY550 Slimline Safety Goggles from Screwfix), work boots and sturdy work gloves at the very least. I'd also suggest ear defenders such as these Dr.Meter Ear Defenders from Amazon.

PERFORMANCE

To test, I used the supplied fixings - nails and staples. To start, I did some quick tests on 18mm plywood and 12mm softwood I had lying around to get a feel for the Titan TTB970NST. The gun has a 2m cord, so you will need an extension - such as this 10m IONOS 2 Socket Cable Reel from Amazon to do most jobs safely.

As recommended, I started on the lowest setting and tried the 32mm nails in 18mm plywood. This was a no. There simply wasn't enough force to drive them all the way in, but this wasn't unexpected. So I turned up the impact control to full and tried again. This time no problem.

Next I nailed together two scrap pieces of 18mm plywood. A job well done; the two pieces were going nowhere, they were securely fastened. I tried the same with some 9mm, 12mm and 18mm MDF and got very similar results. To finish up the nails, I fitted a few feather edge fencing boards I hadn't got round to putting up. Once again, impact control was at full, so there was no problem fixing them in place.

The only issue was that with impact control at full, marks were left in the wood next to the fixing. Not a problem generally, but in some cases, fewer marks are better. Fine-tuning the impact control helped to some degree, but not completely.

Next it was time to test the 20mm and 25mm staples. These are commonly used to attach materials to wood, often for upholstering. Again, I tested both on plywood, MDF and some 9mm and 12mm softwood. Once more, everything worked a treat.

To finish, I decided to give the Titan TTB970NST a sterner test and see how it worked on some 15mm and 35mm hardwood I've kept forever. This proved a step too far, with the nails struggling to fully penetrate the wood. But it was still worth trying.

During testing, I used all the nails supplied (100); they went much quicker than I expected, but new nails such as these Erbauer Galvanised Straight Brad Nails 18ga x 32mm 2000 Pack from Screwfix are relatively cheap - £5.49 at the time of testing. Smaller 15mm nails such as this Easyfix Galvanised Brad Nails 18ga x 15mm 2000 Pack from Screwfix were even less - £2.99.

Finally, a word of warning: if you are adding more than a few nails or staples, I strongly recommend ear defenders. While the Titan TTB970NST is on a par with similar nail guns (the manufacturer's sound pressure level states 95.3 dB(A)), anything above 85db is considered a hearing risk. So keep those ears covered.

FINAL VERDICT

If you're an occasional DIYer who doesn't want or need to spend big on a nail fun or stapler, I would definitely put the Titan TTB970NST on your to-buy list. I was pleasantly surprised at how well it worked, which was better than I expected. All the supplied fixings powered through the plywood, MDF, softwood, and other materials I tried.

I didn't experience any jams, though I've read a few reviews that have. So my only real reservation is the build quality of certain components. Some plastic parts, like the fastener retainer, worked well but felt a bit flimsy. Only time will tell how well it lasts. But at such a budget-friendly price point, it's hard to resist. And if it fails outside its warranty, you won't need to spend much to replace it.

Any serious DIYer needs a jigsaw in their power tool collection. It's a multi-talented piece of kit that can cut wood, worktops, plastic and metal with the right blade, and its real talent lies in cutting curves and shapes that aren't straight.

Effectively, there is no other saw that can do what a jigsaw can do. Its versatility makes it one of the best types of power saw and an essential item for anyone looking to renovate or update their home.

Here, I put the DeWalt DCS331N XR cordless jigsaw through its paces to see just how good it is, and help you decide if it's the tool for you.

Specs and features

• Motor: Brushed
• Weight: 2.2kg (bare tool) 2.8kg (with battery)
• Stroke rate: 0-3,000 spm
• Stroke Length: 26mm
• Bevel angles: 0°, 15°, 30°, and 45°
• Batteries: 2 x 4.0Ah DeWALT XR batteries
• Charger: 1 x 12v 4A XR LI-ION charger
• Max cutting depth: Wood -135mm / Aluminium - 25mm / Steel - 10mm
• Warranty: 3 years
• Features: Lever-action keyless blade change, adjustable dust blower, multi-position pendulum action, variable speed trigger, lock switch, removable shoe cover

Where to buy

Body only – view at Toolstation

Body and toolbox - view at Amazon

Body and blades - view at Toolden

UNBOXING & FIRST IMPRESSIONS

DeWalt is a big name in the world of power tools, so I was expecting big things from the DeWalt DCS331N XR cordless jigsaw. First impressions count, and the DeWalt made a good one. The DCS331N came in a sturdy, hard plastic case emblazoned with DeWALT in bright yellow brand colour, with smart metal latches to keep it closed on the move.

With no packaging to worry about, I cracked open the case and looked inside. Neatly laid out were the jigsaw, a decent-sized charger, two 4.0Ah XR batteries (one installed on the jigsaw and one packaged in plastic), and an attachable dust blower. All held in place thanks to the moulded inserts.

While everything was in place to unleash the beast, one key element was missing. No blades. And let's be honest, a saw with no blades…well, you know what I'm saying. DeWalt offers a wide range of jigsaw blades, so it would have been good to see a few branded blades in the box. For context, I bought this 10-piece set of Erbauer Multi-Material Jigsaw Blades from Screwfix to test out the jigsaw. The set includes a combination of 75mm and 52mm blades suitable for metal, wood and plastic.

The unit was solid, well-built, and well-balanced, but it wasn't lightweight, with the bare tool weighing 2.2kg, slightly heavier than average. However, for me this reinforces the quality you are getting. I like the battery placement on the back of the handle as well which is nice and easy to use.

The handle fitted neatly into my palm and the soft rubber grip gave me a sense of security. Sitting next to my thumb was a lock button and a variable-speed trigger (more on this later). This meant there was no speed dial. If this is something you can't live without, you could upgrade to the DeWalt DCS334N (available from B&Q) for a little more. It's worth mentioning that the DCS334N has a brushless motor, whereas the DCS331N has a brushed motor. A brushless motor is typically more durable and energy efficient.

There are plenty of other features to contend with though. The lever blade change looked a breeze to use; there was an easy-to-attach dust blower (no bag though), a quick-to-remove shoe cover, a bevel lever for predetermined angles, and an orbital action lever.

SETTING UP

Remember, when using a cordless tool, the smart and safe thing to do is add the attachment – in this case a blade – before the battery. I of course remembered to heed my own advice and did just that.

To test, I added the 52mm and 75mm blades I had bought, and loved the way that the blades slid into the holder. All you need to do is pull up the metal lever on the front of the tool, slide in the blade and release. Quick and easy. Repeat, give the jigsaw a wiggle and the blade should fall out. It doesn't get much better than this.

With the blade ready to go, it was time to slip the battery in. Its positioning made it really simple, and it didn't affect the balance. There's more you can do depending on the job being tackled. I left the anti-scratch shoe cover on, but this means you get about 3mm less depth on the blade. Finally, I attached the dust blower and was ready to go.

PERFORMANCE

As the DCS331N doesn't come with any blades, I used the Erbauer blades I'd purchased for testing it. It's worth pointing out that the blades you use can affect the cut and finish. Cheap blades rarely last long, while higher-quality blades typically deliver better cuts. The Erbauer blades had good reviews, so I was hoping they would be up to the task.

To start, I decided to go with common cutting tasks: straight, curved and angled cuts on 18mm plywood. The saw (and blade) breezed through the plywood for all cuts, leaving a neat, clean finish. Little vibration and no pushback. Releasing the easy-to-use bevel lever brings the bevel angles into play. You can choose between 0 (the default), 15, 30 and 45 degrees. A dull click and etched angles on the shoe plate help ensure accuracy.

For my safety and ease, I pushed the trigger lock into place with my thumb, rather than removing the battery every time I needed to adjust the jigsaw.

Each angle was accurate, according to my old-school protractor, combination square and speed square. Cutting the 45-degree angle was more challenging than the other angles, but still pretty straightforward.

To help with cuts, the DeWalt offers a three-position orbital action lever. I unusually stick with zero (default) for most cuts. Position 3 is good for quicker, more aggressive cuts, but as you might expect, the cut isn't as smooth or clean. Position 1 or 2 sits somewhere in between.

Elsewhere, there is a dust blower controller that works with the easy-to-attach dust blower. I tried this in various positions and didn’t notice much difference while working outside. If indoors (especially), you can attach a vacuum attachment to the dust blower to remove much of the dust produced.

To continue testing, I cut through 12mm MDF, similar-sized hardwood shelves, trimmed up my laminate worktop, shaped some old plasterboard to fit a small piece of ceiling that needed replacing, and cut plastic waste pipe and some laminate flooring that needed shaping.

The DeWalt DCS331N XR cordless jigsaw didn’t struggle at any point, unless you count the period at the end of the battery runtime. But, a quick changeover and it was back to normal. The variable-speed trigger gives good control over blade speed, but in reality there are only two speeds: full on and half speed; anything in between is hard to control. However, this will have little effect on most DIY projects.

BATTERY LIFE

Owning a cordless tool means the battery plays a major part in its working life. Ideally, no DIYer wants slow charging times or short runtimes. Thankfully, the DeWALT comes with two 4.0 Ah batteries and a powerful 4A charger. The batteries are part of DeWalt’s premium XR (eXtreme Runtime) range. According to DeWALT, "This is our claim that these batteries last longer than our non-XR versions. They are the higher amp hour batteries and have a larger fuel tank." So it seems they are built to last; time will tell.

Both batteries come partially charged (as they should be), according to the 3-LED indicator on the battery. So that did mean I could use both straight away. To test, I used the first battery until it ran out, then fully charged it for a more thorough test. While using the fully charged battery, I powered up the spare to full capacity, ready to be called into action.

The charger is a simple single-battery affair with a couple of hard-to-miss lights next to the battery, and below, a user-friendly usage chart. The lights represent battery charging progress, which I really liked. When the smaller light starts flashing, you know it won't be long before the battery is fully charged. When it switched to solid red, the battery is ready to go.

A (very) small point, but I would have liked to see it switch to green. If the battery is too hot or cold, a yellow light will also come on as a warning. It didn't happen for me, but is useful to know.

The supplied 4.0Ah battery was quoted as taking 60 minutes to charge on the manual. So how long did it take to charge? Around 60 minutes, which, while not super fast, is very reasonable and obviously what I expected. The second battery charging time, as you might expect, matched the first very closely.

Now to the last and important part. How long does the battery last? This is based on a variety of tasks and, obviously, not on continued use. But around 40-45 minutes seemed to be the average runtime before the battery started to falter. Which I would say is definitely better than average.

FINAL VERDICT

If you are looking for a step-up in quality but don't want to spend all your budget, then the DeWalt DCS331N XR cordless jigsaw provides a happy balance. While it would be considered a budget model by DeWalt standards, you are still getting a durable, hard-working jigsaw with a set of useful features to tackle any DIY project.

Ideally, you want to buy the DeWalt DCS331N XR cordless jigsaw as a set with the battery and charger. However, if you can't find the set anywhere, you'll need to add the cost of a charger and battery.

The DeWalt 18V XR Charger 4 Amp and a DeWalt XR 18V Battery 4.0Ah (both from Toolstation) will double the cost. However, you will be investing in a top-quality jigsaw that will be with you for years.

TikTok is full of tempting quick DIY fixes, short sound bites, time-saving tricks, hacks and shortcuts. Everyone wants to save money, and why not? But with the average video lasting around 60 seconds, how much information can really be crammed into this short space of time that took a tradesperson years to learn?

Something simple might work, but for any serious DIY tasks, short-form video simply skips over too many of the important parts. And what about credibility? What makes them an expert? You really need to pick and choose what you watch before diving in.

There’s plenty of DIY tips on social media in general for home renovations that I think should be consigned to the bin. Here are a few of my personal pet hates, backed-up by others in the know.

1. Sock for painting spindles

I’ve seen this DIY advice/hack not just on TikTok, but across other platforms as well. Personally, I’m not a fan. It seems like a smart idea, but it definitely doesn't do a better job than a decent paintbrush or mini roller (for flat surfaces). I've tried it, and I won't ever be trying it again. It's no quicker, creates a mess, and the finish is no better.

Lucy Steele, senior brand manager and resident colour expert at Valspar Paint, agrees. “Socks absorb far more paint than a brush and releases it much less evenly, so you often end up using significantly more paint than you actually need.

“Not only does this create more mess," she confirms, "but it can also mean buying extra paint to finish the job, making what seems like a money-saving hack more expensive in the long run."

A sock doesn't give as much control over application either. “A sock tends to deposit paint in patches, and can push excess paint into grooves and decorative details," warns Lucy, which can easily lead to paint runs and a streaky finish.

Some might disagree, but I say avoid. Get a small trim brush such as this Harris Trade Fine Tip Emulsion & Gloss Paint Brush from Amazon instead and take your time. "Two light coats with a brush will always produce a smoother, more durable finish,” confirms Lucy.

On the other hand, one DIY trick that does seem to work for the Homebuilding & Renovating team is a tanning mitt. Brand director, Laura Crombie swears by this for painting fiddly areas, if want to try something else other than a paintbrush or roller.

Shop these products to help get your DIY right

2. Safety last rather than safety first

Safety gear often seems to be an afterthought when tackling DIY tasks for a lot of TikTokers. Not sure why; I've seen people working with angle grinders, sparks everywhere. I've seen people trying to break up concrete with power tools. Wearing goggles? Of course not. At the most they may be wearing gloves.

Paul McFadyen, chairman and resident metals specialist at Metals4U, reinforces why this is never a good idea. "Angle grinders can be incredibly useful tools for renovation projects, but they need to be handled with extreme care, and often on TikTok we see people encouraging bad and extremely dangerous practices.

“If a disc catches or shatters while cutting, fragments can be projected at high speed, potentially causing serious injury," he warns.

"Before starting any job, make sure you're using the correct disc for the material, inspect it for signs of damage, wear appropriate PPE including gloves, eye, and hearing protection, and only take on work you feel confident carrying out safely," says Paul.

3. Painting worktops is false economy

A quick and cheap refresh is very tempting. What you'll typically see on TikTok are before-and-after shots, not what it looks like 12 months down the line. Painting worktops is a short-term solution, even if done well. It's something you can do if selling your house and need an instant refresh, but it won't offer you a long-term solution.

For a start, laminate worktops are designed to be hard-wearing, so paint doesn't bond that well. Even if you are careful and rarely put hot pans on the surface, it will need regular cleaning. Kieran Nagle, a DIY expert on Airtasker, backs this up.

"Just using a kitchen day-to-day means paint can chip quite quickly. Those little chips and cracks can collect dirt and bacteria, which isn’t ideal on a surface where you're preparing food.

“However, if you really want to paint them, make sure you're using a product specifically designed for worktops," he continues, "rather than leftover paint from the shed.”

Personally, I never paint a laminate or wooden worktop. If I want a quick and relatively cheap worktop makeover, I always use self-adhesive vinyl such as this d-c-fix Walnut Self-adhesive Vinyl Wrap from B&Q. This is easy to apply, lasts longer, has plenty of design options and the end result always looks much better.

4. Tiling on top of tiles without checking if you should

Is this the worst advice I've seen on TikTok? No. If done correctly, it can be a real time-saver; I’ve tiled over tiles, but always followed some simple rules which is rarely the case on TikTok. A lot of TikTok videos focus on the aesthetic taking the view that it looks great, so all is good. No, it's not.

As Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements points out, “videos rarely talk about ensuring that the existing tiles have been properly assessed for their integrity or for being hollow or loose."

Too much weight on a surface and the harsh reality is that everything will come tumbling down. This is even more likely if working with a plasterboard sub-base.

“I've seen tiles peel off en masse in one year due to not being checked for what you were tiling onto," confirms Angelo.

In short, get it wrong, and you're heading for a DIY disaster, and an expensive one at that. Imagine a couple of months in, and the tiles start to fall off the wall. You can't replace them, as the same problem is going to happen again. You'll need to remove the remaining new tiles, remove the old tiles, re-plaster the walls, buy new tiles, and pay to get them installed. That's not going to be cheap.

And even if a wall is fit for purpose, there's rarely any mention of the effect of the double thickness. How will this affect doorways, doors, sockets, worktops and half-tiled walls? It can be hard to create a decent aesthetic and integrate the new surface well. Double-layer floors for example can lead to trimming the bottom of doors, which is very irritating, and you could fund under-counter kitchen appliances will struggle to fit under a countertop. Be warned if you're considering this technique in your home.

5. Mixing plumbing materials the wrong way

Messing up painting a wall is a relatively easy fix, but botched plumbing can have serious and expensive consequences. I'm good with simple plumbing jobs such as replacing a tap or adding a new isolation valve like this Flat Faced Male Straight Isolating Valve from Toolstation. But I try to avoid anything more complicated before asking one of my plumbing mates; it's easy to make mistakes (as I know from experience).

"One of the biggest risks we’ve seen in the TikTok DIY community is people carrying out plumbing repairs and not understanding how different metals interact together,” expands Paul McFadyen.

“A common example is connecting older galvanised steel pipes directly to new copper pipework. This will solve the problem initially, but further down the line problems will lead to premature failure,” he warns.

If you are going to do any DIY plumbing, get expert advice before you start as generally, in classic TikTok fashion, all looks good to start, with little thought for the consequences.

“Seeking professional advice before making alterations can help avoid costly repairs and extend the lifespan of your plumbing system," advises Paul. You have been warned.

6. Confusing US advice with UK advice

It's easy to forget that there are no physical borders on social media platforms, so you can easily be watching content created in the USA. A lot of advice simply won't work, or work as well in the UK. There are distinct differences between construction methods, such as those required when building a house in the UK compared to America, so it makes sense that you check the location of the TikToker before you start following any DIY advice.

Angleo Patrizi points out a few of the more common issues to look out for. "As well as different types of building construction (timber frame vs masonry construction), there are different ways of insulating and protecting against damp, and different pipework standards.

"Something that would work fine on an American stud wall construction might not work well at all on a UK solid wall in a Victorian terrace, or a cavity wall."

Then there's terminology to think about, which can make everything more complicated. You probably know that drywall is plasterboard, but do you know what latex paint is? It's emulsion. What about baseboard? Skirting boards. All something to watch out for. And don't forget, the US use imperial measurements, not metric like the UK.

Whatever DIY project you're looking to tackle, as well as the right methods for the job, you also need to make sure have the right tools. Find out the tools I recommend for decorating, and if you're on a limited budget, these are the 5 budget power tools I'd always buy.

When tackling a paint project, you need to choose the right paint tool to ensure you get the best finish. Will you need a paint sprayer? Or will a brush or roller be the best choice?

In reality, I find you usually need a combination to complete a project. However, you still need to choose the right combination.

Different scenarios often dictate which paint tool is the best option. Sometimes it's easy to decide; other times it's not so simple. The best paint sprayers work well on certain surfaces, but not others; the same for rollers and brushes. Here I reveal what works well and where, so you always get the best finish.

Where to use a sprayer, brush and roller

The simple answer to 'which tool should I use?', is paintbrushes for woodwork such as skirting boards, door frames, doors, and windows. Rollers for painting walls and ceilings, and paint sprayers for cabinets, cabinet doors and fences. This is what I typically use each for, but as always, it's not that straightforward.

Brushes and rollers are typically more flexible and cost-effective than paint sprayers and can be used on interior woodwork and walls. For exterior projects, Paul Kerr, building specialist at Beatsons Building Supplies, says, “rollers can be utilised for outdoor stucco and masonry, while brushes are great for intricate deck railings or woods." Another DIY task they are commonly used for is applying wallpaper paste. Brushes are also essential for cutting in around edges.

Paint sprayers are commonly useful for more specific surfaces and jobs. Timothy Evans, founder of Tess Construction, explains out what they are ideal for. “Paint sprayers come into their own on large exterior surfaces such as fences, cladding and render, as well as spraying kitchen cabinet fronts where a factory-smooth finish is the goal.

"Sprayers are also the best choice for rough or textured surfaces where a brush or roller would struggle to get into every crevice," he adds.

Shop these paint tools for the best finish

Where not to use a sprayer, roller or brush

You can technically use a brush, roller or sprayer for any surface indoors or outdoors, but common sense directs you in a more obvious direction.

For example, Paul Kerr says, "A sprayer doesn't do well on windy days, so when using one outdoors, try to pick a gentle sunny day for it, as they can waste a lot of excess paint in overspraying.”

Timothy Evans points out where rollers aren't a suitable choice: "A roller isn’t suited to small, detailed areas where its size prevents good contact. A brush gives you maximum control here.”

Paintbrushes can be used anywhere, but again, it often makes sense to use an alternative option, as Jack Reading from exterior paint specialists, Emperor Paint, explains.

"There aren't many surfaces where you simply can't use a brush, but it becomes impractical across large areas and makes decorating a much bigger job than it needs to be.”

Pros and cons of spray, brushes and rollers

Speed of application is a key benefit for paint sprayers, which means as a general rule, a paint sprayer is the quickest tool, closely followed by a roller, with a brush typically being the slowest.

“The obvious appeal of spraying is speed, where on large enough projects it can save a lot of application time,” says Jack Reading. But, sprayers need a lot more prep time and use more paint, pushing up paint costs.

As an example, I used a 5L tin of Cuprinol Garden Shades from B&Q (watered down as recommended by the manufacturer) and this covered around 30% less than when I used a brush.

The obvious benefit of rollers is that they are more cost-effective than paint sprayers, and faster than brushes for large flat areas. However, they absorb more paint and create a mist spray when used, so you do need to make sure areas are covered before starting.

There are parts of the job where nothing beats a brush,” says Jack “You have much more control around edges, details, and awkward areas. But, a brush is always slower," he warns.

For most jobs, including cutting in, I like to use a 3-inch brush such as this ProDec Premier Trade Professional Brush from Amazon, as it holds paint well, and lets you cover more area in one go.

For applying to woodwork, I typically use a 2-inch brush, as it holds paint well, has a smooth release, and gives good coverage. For oil-based paints, I always use a natural bristle brush.

Is the preparation work the same for every painting tool?

Typically, surface preparation remains much the same whether you are using a brush, roller, or paint sprayer. For example, if painting a wall, you will need to prepare the wall for painting so it's clean, smooth and free of loose debris. The same principles will apply when preparing woodwork.

However, while you'll only need dust sheets such as these ARVO Extra Large Plastic Dust Sheets for Decorating to cover floors and furniture with brushes and rollers, more protection will be needed when spraying.

Spraying is also more time-consuming when it comes to prep, explains Paul Kerr. “You need to make sure the room is completely bare of furnishings and anything that can't be moved needs to be covered up, or apray will float all over the room/space and settle everywhere," he warns.

To avoid overspray, I use a painter's tape such as this ScotchBlue Multi-Surface Premium Masking Tape from Amazon to tape down the edges of my dust sheets.

You'll also need personal protection, especially for interior spray paint jobs notes Paul, recommending, "eye protection, a mask/respirator and some coveralls for your clothes.”

Do sprayers, brushes and rollers work with all paints?

While technically most paint types work with all paint tools, each works slightly differently.

“Brushes and rollers work with most paints, but choosing the right matches makes the job much easier for yourself," expands Jack Reading.“For brushes, synthetic bristles are best for water-based paints, while oil-based paints work well with natural or suitable synthetic brushes."

Rollers are much the same, but you will need to think about the surface they are being used on, he continues. “With rollers, smooth walls need a shorter pile, while rough surfaces need a longer pile to reach into the texture.”

Paint sprayers are different again, explains Timothy Evans. "Sprayers require paint to be thinned to the correct viscosity, and not all paints thin appropriately for spraying. Very thick masonry paints, and some specialist coatings need an airless sprayer, rather than a standard HVLP unit.”

I’ve got a standard HVLP paint sprayer - The Wagner W100 Paint sprayer - available from B&Q. I only ever use fence paint or watered-down emulsion, so effectively only water-based paints. I never bother with oil-based paints. If I do, I hire an airless sprayer. Whatever you use, make sure to check the manufacturer's dilution recommendation.

Common mistakes to avoid when choosing and using paint tools

1. Wrong roller pile

For smooth walls, it's easy, as all piles work. The shorter the pile, the smoother the finish. However, if you have a heavily textured surface, make sure to use an extra-long-pile roller to get into the gaps.

2. Thinning paint incorrectly

“A common mistake when using a paint sprayer is thinning the paint incorrectly, which causes runs or blockages,” says Timothy Evans. Always check the manufacturer's recommendations and test on an out-of-the-way area. I usually try it on a piece of waste cardboard or wallpaper first.

3. Too much paint and pressure

To get a smooth, even finish, Timothy Evans recommends avoiding overloading a paint roller. “With rollers, overloading the roller causes spatter and uneven coverage,” he explains.

“Be careful also not to apply too much pressure when applying the paint,” adds Paul Kerr, as this causes paint overload on the edges, leaving ridges of paint.

Paul's final piece of advice? "Avoid very cheap rollers as they can shed after a couple uses.”

4. Not cleaning your paint tools properly

At the end of a job, it's easy to skimp on the cleaning. But it needs to be done properly. Brushes and rollers will go stiff and not apply paint as well the next time they are used. If you can't clean your paint brushes or rollers immediately wrap them in cling film to keep moist if using the next day.

You’ll also need to think about the paint type you've used when it comes to cleaning rollers. Water-based paints are easy to clean. Run up a tap until the water runs clear, squeeze and leave to dry. Removing oil-based paints isn’t as simple. First, I use a scraper like this Purdy Contractor brush and roller cleaner from Amazon to remove as much paint as possible.

I follow this up by soaking the roller in white spirit or brush cleaner, and then squeezing the paint out. Repeat with clean white spirit until clear. To finish, I wash the roller sleeve in warm soapy water, rinse the soap out with clean water, stand it up, and leave it to dry.

For paint sprayers, pay extra attention to the nozzle. They have fine holes that can block easily, causing uneven spray patterns and a patchy finish.

Once you've taken on board this advice, find out what you’ll need for painting new plaster, painting a house and painting over water stains. Or, for paint inspiration, check out our guides on how to choose a paint colour and the latest paint trends.

As your DIY aspirations grow, so will your tool collection. Every time you take on a new DIY project, I guarantee that you'll be adding new tools to your collection. It could be something small or even perhaps a smart new power tool – but whatever it is, you need to find a space to house them.

Storing your tools correctly will extend their lifespan, even budget power tools that may not always last as long. And if your space is limited, it's not always easy finding solutions, but choosing the right location will make a big difference and stop them failing sooner than they should.

Combine this with essential and regular maintenance and your tools will be your friends for years to come. I know, because this is how I manage my own personal (and somewhat large) collection.

How to store tools

How you store your tools will have a big bearing on how long they last. Poorly stored and maintained tools will deteriorate much quicker than tools stored and maintained correctly. This means you're be replacing them sooner than you should, which will be costly in the long run. This is especially true of power tools which can involve substantial investment.

The best ways to store power tools

For individual power tools, I like to keep them stored in a hard case if at all possible. Better quality (and more expensive) power tools often come with a hard case, which is the perfect solution for ensuring they don't get bashed or broken.

“One mistake I see is people throwing different tools together in one large box,” shares Matthew O'Grady, director of Thomas Matthew Kitchens & Furniture. "What they don't realise is that every time that box is moved, the tools will knock into each other and that damages cutting edges, and can knock precision tools out of alignment.”

You can purchase hard cases separately, such as this Dewalt 18v SDS Power Tool Case Black from B&Q. However, you will need to do your online research to get a hard case that matches your power tool, especially if the manufacturer doesn't make hard cases. Generic cases like this Plastic Power Tool Storage Case are available from Amazon.

Budget-friendly power tools rarely come with a hard case (this helps keep the price down). DIY-friendly Black & Decker tools often come with a canvas carry case though, which offers a level of protection, especially from dust, and makes them easier to transport.

The alternative is to store the power tool in the cardboard box it came in. This is a short-term solution, as the box will absorb moisture and start to degrade if kept in damp or condensation-prone areas.

Ideally, you also want to store power tools (even if in hard cases) off the ground. Shelving units such as this Essentials 5-Tier Metal Garage Shelving Unit from Screwfix are a good choice.

I like to organise my power tools so I have easy access to the more frequently used ones. These are placed at shoulder height, with regularly used tools above, and the less frequently used at the bottom. However, don't overload the top shelves. Nick Smith, owner of NJS Sash Window Restoration, adds a note of caution (which I try to follow): “To help avoid injury, heavier tool boxes should be placed lower on the shelves.”

Shop these storage solutions

The correct way to store hand tools

The options for storing hand tools depends on what tools you have, what size they are and how many you have. I have various-sized toolboxes from small to large, and they are divided into specific tools, with my largest holding my decorating tools such as wallpaper brushes, rollers (for paste) etc. One of the smaller toolboxes keeps all my plumbing-related tools, such as this HAUTMEC Copper Pipe Cutter Set from Amazon.

Another small toolbox holds screwdrivers, hammers, pliers, and similar tools. My top tip is to invest in stackable toolboxes so you can neatly fit them on top of each other. Modular toolbox systems such as this Stanley Modular Rolling Toolbox from Screwfix are a reliable alternative.

Beyond toolboxes, I use plastic storage towers like this Tontarelli 3 Drawer Plastic Storage Tower Unit from Amazon as a cost-effective alternative. However, they don't last as long, but are cheap to replace. To help keep everything organised, label the drawers with a permanent marker or stickers.

If you have the space, a wall pegboard system such as this VonHaus Tool Pegboard from B&Q is also ideal for storing hand tools on the wall.

Storing the small stuff

Every DIYer has a collection of small stuff such as nails, screws, rawl plugs, and various other fixings – I know I do. Organising these makes it much easier to find what you need, when you need it.

I use a simple set of drawers such as this Really Useful Storage Drawer Unit from Amazon to store them at home. I also have a collection of small plastic bins where I store them for quick, easy access. Try something like this DIY Organiser from VonHaus. Another option is a carry case such as this DEKO Screw Storage Organiser Tool Box from Amazon which is ideal if you need to take a selection wherever you are working.

Garage or shed? The best location for storing tools

Your storage location can be dictated by circumstances. For example, I don’t have the luxury of a garage with good garage storage, so the majority of my tools are stored in my shed, with most of my power tools stored indoors.

A shed might not be the ideal solution, but if you are going to store your tools in one, Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements, says, “a shed with good shed insulation and ventilation that stores tools off the ground is okay, but cheap sheds are likely to be the worst places for metal items,” he warns.

That's why most of my power tools and a lot of my hand tools are stored inside. However, I am on the lookout for a decent shed and am thinking of investing in this Tubby 19mm Log Cabin Apex Work Shed from Dunster House as a potential solution.

But, if like me, you rely on storing your power tools indoors, what are your best options?

“Cupboards, areas under stairs or even a utility room are acceptable for tools,” advises Angelo. Advice I was already following as mine are stored under the stairs where I built my own shelving unit, especially for that reason.

“Power tools and batteries should be stored away from heaters and direct sunlight through windows," continues Angleo, a firm believer in the fact that, “dry always wins over warm, and ventilation is better than an airtight box.”

Keep the temperature constant

Wherever you store your tools, you need to think about temperature and humidity, says Nick Smith.

"A dry garage is better because the temperatures are more constant there than in a garden shed, where the temperature may be extremely hot in the summer and extremely cold in the winter. Just as you don't want your tools to be exposed to high temperatures, you also don't want to expose them to freezing temperatures," he explains.

But, there's also a bigger problem to bear in mind, warns Nick. Areas prone to moisture are the least suitable place to store tools. "Damp is of bigger concern than the temperature, as the constant presence of moisture will promote rust," he warns. "Condensation will also damage the wiring and circuitry of the tools and a tool's batteries."

A potential solution where temperature and moisture isn't always even? "Throw in a few Silica gel packs or moisture absorbers,” with your storage suggests Nick. This will help combat any moisture that does exist. “Air circulation is important," he adds, noting how a workshop that gets damp in the winter may also benefit from purchasing a small dehumidifier.

And, if you have been in a different location with your tools, (perhaps at your self-build but are living off-site and have bought them back with you), and you park on a driveway at night, Angleo Patrizi offers another warning. “Don’t store tools in a van overnight during winter," he says, "as a van gets wet and cold rather quickly, which is the quickest way to spoil a power tool.”

5 essential tips for maintaining tools

Storing tools correctly helps keep them in good condition, but constant maintenance is the key to longevity. There are a few things that I try to do after every use, no matter the tool.

1. Clean them

All tools need to be cleaned after use. Leaving dust, paint, or debris on a tool will lead to corrosion and failing parts. For example, I brush and wipe down all my power tools after use. The same goes for blades, if the tool has one. Decorating tools such as rollers and brushes need to be paint-free and left to dry.

2. Lubricate regularly

Some tools will be more obvious and easier to clean than others. For example, I have a few hand saws. I wipe them clean and use a cloth to add a thin layer of oil to help stop moisture forming on the surface. If you have exposed elements on a power tool, such as rails on a mitre saw, wipe them clean and lubricate them.

Ideally, give any moving parts like a drill chuck regular lubrication too. A squirt of WD-40 is a short-term solution. Check the manufacturer's recommendation on what lubricant to use.

3. Sharpen or replace

Any tools with a blade or cutting edge will dull over time. There are typically two options: sharpen or replace. Tools like chisels, pipe cutters, planer blades and lawnmower blades will need regular sharpening to keep working efficiently.

Blades for circular saws, mitre saws, jigsaws, reciprocating saws and angle grinder discs are easier to replace than sharpen. So always keep spare blades or discs so you can replace them when needed.

4. Battery care

A wipe and clean of contacts is simple aftercare when you swap out a battery. If you are not going to use a battery for a while, Angleo Patrizi says, “batteries should be kept charged at about 40-50% if not used for some period of time.” Personally, I wait until a battery is fully drained, charge for half the usual time of a full charge and then store it away.

5. Power cord care

Try not to wrap long power cords tightly around your elbow or arm. A music technician once told me off for doing that. Apparently it twists internal wires and shortens the life of the cable. For extension cables, it is recommended to unwind completely so there is less chance of overheating. Occasionally wipe the sockets clean and always pull out plugs by the casing, not the cable.

Keeping your tools in good condition means that you tackle a whole host of DIY projects for years to come. But, before you dive into your next project, follow my advice on the 10 DIY mistakes to avoid, and find out what essential tools you need and where to buy them.

You can never just assume that a wall or household fitting is straight and true. Structures move over time, and both DIYers and tradespeople can make mistakes.

One thing you can trust is that gravity will always pull a suspended object towards the centre of the planet. There’s a cheap, simple, traditional tool that uses this natural law to establish a true vertical reference: a plumb bob and line. This type of tool has been used since antiquity, and it’s still popular in the present day.

Whether you buy a plumb bob and line from a hardware retailer, or make your own using household items, it should help you to establish exactly which way is up. This can ensure neat, straight edges in DIY projects, which makes using a plumb bob one of the most effective wallpaper hacks you can learn.

What is a plumb bob and line?

A plumb bob is a weighty object, typically made of metal and featuring a pointed tip. The line is simply a piece of string, cord or another flexible material which the plumb bob can dangle from. Together, they’re a highly effective tool for plotting a perfectly vertical reference line onto a wall.

When the end of the line is tied to a fixed point such as a nail or hook, the bob should dangle exactly vertically, as it is pulled towards earth’s centre of gravity. This holds the line taut, straight down the wall.

“A plumb bob and line is one of the oldest and most dependable tools in DIY and despite the growing popularity of laser levels, it’s still an excellent way to establish a true vertical reference line,” says Laura Nicholson, head of buying at B&Q.

“The tool relies on gravity rather than batteries and calibration, so it’s highly accurate when used correctly. It’s especially handy for everyday DIY jobs where a straight vertical guide is needed, from hanging wallpaper and aligning shelving to checking door frames, fitting wall panelling or making sure posts and stud walls are upright.

“It’s also particularly useful when tiling, helping to establish a true vertical starting line, especially as walls, corners and bathtubs aren’t always perfectly level or square,” she says.

An affordable, effective plumb bob and line:

How to use a plumb bob and line

1. Tie the line to a fixed point

“Securely attach the line to a fixed point above the area you’re working on, and allow the weighted bob to hang freely,” says Laura Nicholson.

In most cases, you will need to install a small fixing into the wall in order to suspend the plumb bob. I drilled a hole and installed a small hook into a suitably sized Rawlplug.

Choose the place from which you hang your plumb bob carefully. If you’re tiling the wall or wallpapering it, then it would make sense to use the horizontal centre of the area being decorated, so that the reference line can line up with where your laying or papering pattern starts.

Do not allow the plumb bob to dangle down past a skirting board or similar obstacle, as this can disrupt its accuracy. “Make sure the line can hang freely without touching the wall or anything else,” Laura advises.

2. Be patient

A plumb bob will inevitably swing or spin for a while after you’ve hung it up. It will stop moving after a minute or two (unless there’s a disruption such as excessive airflow through the space).

“It’s important to wait until the bob has completely stopped moving before taking your measurements, because even the slightest swing can affect the accuracy,” says Laura Nicholson.

“Once completely still, the string will provide a true vertical line that you can use as a guide for marking, aligning or checking surfaces.”

3. Mark along the line

You’re now ready to make your perfectly vertical reference marks, but, "rather than measuring against the bob itself, mark alongside the string once it has settled,” says Laura Nicholson.

“If you’re marking a finished wall, applying a strip of masking tape first allows you to make pencil marks without marking the surface directly,” she suggests. This Status IONOS Masking Tape from Amazon is light in colour, making it easy to see any marks that you make.

Try not to knock the line while making your pencil marks, as this can cause the bob to start swinging or spinning again.

4. Align your project materials

Use a ruler or straight-edge tool to join up the pencil marks you’ve made using the plumb bob and line. Try this White Aluminium Cutting Ruler from Amazon to create a straight line between your pencil marks.

You can now use this pencil line as a reference point for your project. If applicable, place your materials (such as tiles or a section of wallpaper) along the line, and work outwards across the wall.

If your materials are perfectly square, then the accurate verticality should carry through across the laying pattern. However, you will often benefit from drawing multiple vertical references across the wall so that you can keep checking your pattern as you work, especially if you are decorating a wide area, as no material or DIYer is perfectly accurate.

FAQs

Can you make your own plumb bob and line?

Plumb bobs can be one of those makeshift tools that you cobble together at home from commonplace items (such as a washer and a piece of string), although it won’t cost you much to get a good, purpose-made plumb bob and line set from a DIY retailer.

For most people, the maximum length of line you could need will be the height of the highest-ceilinged room in your home (or the stairwell). Cut your line to suit and tie it securely to an object that is heavy enough to pull the line taut.

What does ‘plumb bob’ mean?

The term ‘plumb bob’ refers to the material that was historically used to make these tools: lead (which is called plumbum in Latin and also gives us the word ‘plumbing’). Plumb bobs are also sometimes called ‘plummets’.

The same type of tool and the same principles have been used in construction and decorating since antiquity.

What has replaced traditional plumb bob and lines?

The plumb bob and line hasn’t been replaced, but other, more modern measurement tools have been designed to do similar or slightly different tasks – in some contexts more effectively than a plumb bob and line.

“Modern laser levels such as the selection we have at B&Q are ideal for larger projects, but a plumb bob remains an affordable and dependable addition to your DIY toolkit,” says Laura Nicholson.

“Plumb bobs are simple to use and can provide excellent accuracy for everyday home improvement tasks, making them a reliable alternative when a laser level isn’t needed.”

Nowadays, you can also get relatively sophisticated plumb bobs, including models with pins and/or magnets that can be attached rapidly to walls or steels for quick, convenient measurement.

What are the drawbacks to a plumb bob and line?

A plumb bob and line is by no means perfect. It can only show you a vertical line (unless used with a tape measure and multiple lines of reference), whereas a good laser level will provide both vertical and horizontal references.

Another downside to this tool that we’ve already touched upon is that a plumb bob and line can be rendered inaccurate by disruptions (such as breezes) or obstacles (such as skirting boards or dado rails).

Yair Meshoulam, founder of Wallpaper Hangers, avoids using a plumb bob and line, although he does find the tools interesting. “A spirit level is more accurate,” he says. “The longer it is, the more accurate it is, and the more truly straight the line will be. You don’t have to wait for it to stop swinging before you make your line, and you can draw your line along its straight edge, which is much easier.

“I do have a plumb bob and level from about 40 years ago, but I haven’t used it in years,” he adds. If you would prefer to use a spirit level in the way Yair describes, you will need one that has a plumb vial for vertical measurement.

Small and cheap tools like plumb bob and line sets are sometimes overlooked, but they can make a dramatic difference to your DIY projects. For more toolbox inspiration, read our guides to tile spacers and masking tape vs painter’s tape.

The beauty of a multi tool is that you get good value for money. It can tackle a whole host of DIY jobs with a single tool, so no need to splash out on multiple power tools. It's a smart and sensible choice for any DIYer, but even more so for those just getting started.

But it's not just novice DIYers that can benefit from a decent multi tool. Seasoned do-it-yourselfers will find a use for it as well. All you need is the right blades or attachment to tackle the task at hand.

Here, I run the Einhell TP-MG 18 Li BLCordless Multifunctional Tool through a gamut of tests to see just how well it works, and whether it's worth your hard-earned cash.

Where to buy

Specification and features

• Motor: Brushless motor
• Weight: 0.8kg
• Sandpaper size: 93 x 93 x 93mm.
• Angle of oscillation: 3.2 degrees
• No load speed: 11000 - 22000/min
• Oscillating speed: 22000 - 40000/min
• Warranty: 10 years
• Features: 1 x sanding shoe with hook-and-loop fastening, 1 x diamond segment saw blade for tile grouting, 1 x segment saw blade (HSS) for wood, plastic, soft metal, 1 x plunge saw blade (BIM) for metal, 1 x plunge saw blade (HCS) for wood and plastic, 1 x scraper, 9 x sandpapers (3 x P60, 3 x P80, 3 x P120).

First impressions

I say the same thing almost every time, but the excitement of unboxing a power tool for the first time never leaves me. It’s been a while since I’ve had a new multi tool, which added to the excitement, and my interaction with Einhell power tools has always been positive… so far.

First impressions were good; the packaging was recyclable, and there wasn’t much of it. Just enough to protect the tool, along with a simple cardboard box to store the accessories. A QR code on the box redirected to the Einhell website for more info, prices and available accessories. Simple, but effective.

First out of the box were the accessories. Included were blades for wood and metal, a scraper blade, segment (round) saw blades for removing tile grouting and for cutting wood, plastic, and soft metal, and a sanding pad with 9 sandpaper pads in three different grades. Pretty much everything you’ll need to start using the multi tool immediately.

What I did notice before I even lifted the multi tool out of the box was a lack of a carry bag or case. I would have been happy with either. The box will be taking up that mantle for now. More importantly, there’s no battery or charger, so there will be additional costs for those who don’t already own a tool from the Einhell Power X-Change collection, many of which you can find on Amazon.

The unit itself was solid, lightweight and well-balanced. The well-placed rubber grip gave the impression that the Einhell would be secure and comfortable to use. Subtly etched into the grip were the words 'anti-vibration'. This heightened my anticipation and hope that it would work well.

Another feature neatly placed on the top of the tool was a speed dial. This ranged from 1-6. I set it to one to ease myself into using the tool. Keeping it company was a well-placed and sizeable on/off button. Finally, there was the quick-release handle at the front of the tool. I had a quick play with it, and it wasn’t the easiest to use; you've got to put some effort in to get it working. It's worth noting that other brands use different connection methods, I would say some easier than the Einhell. However, once I got used to it, it wasn’t an issue.

Set up

There are pretty much only two steps to setting up a cordless multi tool. Add battery then your preferred blade or attachment and you're ready to go.

If you’re new to using a cordless multi tool, make sure to add the blade or attachment first. You don’t want the tool to burst into life when your hands or any other body part are in the vicinity. It will be painful, I promise you. The quick-release handle is there to enable toolless attachment, but it's not the easiest option I’ve seen for attaching a blade. You need to give the handle some muscle power to get it into the unlock position.

Once you have, adding a blade to the 12-pin tool adapter is straightforward and allows you to choose the position you want. Ideal when tackling harder-to-reach areas. When in position, simply close the quick-release handle to secure it. There is a bit of snap back on the handle, so be careful. However, once I got used to it, it was easy to use.

There is a small metal disk supplied to help hold open back blades and attachments in place. This offers greater compatibility and the option to buy other brands. The only problem I had was that I was convinced that I was going to lose it. Luckily, I haven’t yet.

It's worth noting that the Einhell is incompatible with the Starlock system you get on other tools. But don’t panic, this won’t be an issue for DIYers. And it's easy enough to buy compatible blades and attachments, such as the Original Einhell XL-Plus-CASE 35-Piece Multi-Tool Set from Amazon.

Finally, before I added my 4.0Ah battery, I gave it a full charge to get the most out of the tool. Adding the battery is as simple as it gets. Slide in, and it clicks into place. You’re ready to go.

Performance

The Einhell TP-MG 18 Li BL multi tool comes with a collection of blades and attachments, pretty much something for every DIY job you’ll need a multi tool for.

To kick off, I used the wood/plastic blade to cut through architrave at ground level, ready for new flooring. I started with the speed dial set at one (the lowest level). The Einhell worked effectively, if not efficiently, so I upped the speed dial to three. This cut through the architrave with ease. Upping the speed to six (the highest level) made it even quicker. But assuming this would use more battery power, I was keen to keep it at a mid-range level. It's worth noting that the Einhell isn’t excessively loud for a multi tool, but it's not quiet either.

Next, it was cutting out a few shapes to get a couple of lengths of timber to fit around my side gate lock and ensure my garden fencing fitted well. Again, this was a breeze. Next, I tried it on some plastic plumbing pipe, no problems. A switch to the metal blade saw easily cut through some thin metal sheeting. It took more effort for thicker metal, but in reality, when cutting a lot of metal, you would use a more specialist tool.

For the larger-segment wood saw blade, I cut into a hardwood plank to fit around some pipework. This took more effort, even with the dial set at six, and created a little smoke. However, this would be the same for any multi tool.

This left me with the grout removal blade, scraper and sander. The grout removal blade did its job with no fuss, quickly and neatly removing narrow grout lines. To give the blade a more thorough test, I tried removing mortar ready for repointing. This was a slow process, but again, another tool is better suited to heavier-duty work. In this case I would typically use my angle grinder.

The scraper and sander worked exactly as I expected. I tried it to help remove self-adhesive vinyl planks and paint from door frames and doors, then sanded the floors and frames. Again, this was effective and efficient. What I noticed when tackling a job, whatever the blade or attachment, was how well the anti-vibration feature worked. It was more prominent at the lower levels, but at the top end, it was hardly noticeable, allowing longer working time without feeling the effects.

The last thing to mention is the neat thin LED light on the front. It lights up the blade or attachment well, but there’s no option to switch off. Which means it's always on, even when there’s no need. It’s a small point, but I would have liked the option.

Battery lfe

As with any cordless power tool, battery life is important. No DIYer wants a battery that takes forever to charge, can’t hold its charge or is underpowered. As I already mentioned, this Einhell multi tool doesn’t come with a battery or charger. So, for clarity and context, I am using an Einhell PXC 4.0Ah SEALED battery (available on Amazon), but it will add significantly to the multi tool's cost.

There are other options, such as the Einhell 18V 4.0Ah Plus Lithium-Ion Battery and Charger Set from Amazon. However, if you already own a compatible Einhell power tool, you can ignore this cost.

The official runtime for a 4.0Ah battery (according to their website) is around 68 minutes. So how did this compare with my experience? I'm not sure the battery hit 68 minutes, but it wasn’t far off, so plenty of runtime. I always recommend you have a second battery charged so you can swap when needed. Which, if you did have the same, you’ll have over three hours of runtime, plenty for any DIY tasks you’re tackling.

Once I had drained the battery, it was time to recharge. I used an Einhell Power X-Charger 3A, which conveniently has a charging time overview chart on the back. This indicated 75 minutes for a 4.0Ah battery. My battery took around 70 minutes to fully charge. Good to see accurate timings. A similar charger - the Power X-Fastcharger 4A - is available from the Einhell site for £30. The charger is easy to use with red and green LEDs indicating whether the battery is charging or fully charged. A trio of blue lights - activated by a quick push of a button- lets you know what's happening.

Final verdict

A multi tool is a great addition to a DIYer's toolkit, and I have no hesitation in recommending the Einhell TP-MG 18 Li BL Cordless Multitool. Admittedly, it doesn’t come with a battery or charger, so this will add nearly 50% to the overall cost. Obviously, not an issue if you already own another Einhell tool in the Power X-Change family. But I wouldn’t recommend a single battery for more than one tool. I would invest in at least a second, which would add to the cost again. However, it is ideal if you own other Einhell tools, such as this Einhell TP-CD 18/50 cordless drill that I also tested and found to be a great addition to my tool box.

The tool itself is straightforward to use; however, while the quick-release system does the job, I’ve seen easier-to-use options on some of the other best multi tools. But don’t let this put you off what is a good all-round multi tool.

The anti-vibration setup worked a treat, especially at higher speeds, and the inclusion of blades and attachments means you can tackle the tasks the tool was intended for. There’s little to dislike, though a carry case/bag would have been a simple addition, and apart from a few minor flaws, you are getting a great multi tool.

If you’re a DIYer, you might find some of the best reciprocating saws quite intimidating, due to their extreme power or complicated features. Yet on the other hand, you’ll sometimes find that the most basic models lack the power or quality to excel at chopping or plunge cutting all sorts of materials including wood, metal and plasterboard.

The Worx Nitro WX501 is a compact, cordless model that’s pitched somewhere in-between the two extremes. It’s certainly powerful, with a 20V motor driving its blade at up to 3,000 strokes per minute – but it’s also approachable, with a minimal form factor and simple controls.

It sounds good on paper, but how does the Worx Nitro WX501 perform when faced with wood or metal? I set up a series of DIY tests to find out.

Where to buy the Worx Nitro WX501

Key specifications

• Cordless tool family: Worx PowerShare
• Intended uses include: plunge-cutting; cutting workpieces including metal bars and wooden beams
• Battery capacity: 2.0Ah
• Voltage: 20V
• Blade speed: 0 - 3,000/min
• Stroke length: 26mm
• Weight: 1.8kg

Alongside the tool itself, you get a 2.0Ah lithium-ion battery to power it, and a Worx WA3880 battery charger, both of which can also be used with compatible ‘bare tools’ from the Worx Powershare range. All of the components come with a good-quality hard case for storage and transportation (provided you choose the retailer carefully – some sell the same tool with a soft storage bag).

Last but not least, two reciprocating saw blades are bundled in with the tool. One of these is designed for cutting metal; the other is intended for wood. You can also buy other types of reciprocating saw blades, including these Masonry Reciprocating Saw Blades from Screwfix that can saw through brick and concrete – though I would recommend using these with a contractor-grade reciprocating saw.

How I tested

I reviewed the Worx Nitro WX501 Cordless Brushless Compact Reciprocating Saw by testing it across an appropriate range of tasks, including cutting clean through wood or metal, and plunge-cutting holes in MDF.

1. Cutting timber

I was blown away by the power of the WX501 when I used it to cut various pieces of wood. Running at up to 3,000 strokes per minute, the blade made its way through hardwood and softwood battens in a matter of seconds, producing fairly clean cuts that needed only a little tidying up using a sander. (With that said, you should always cut wood fractionally over the required length when using a reciprocating saw, so that you can adjust the finish without making the piece too short).

It took next to no manual effort to cut wood with this saw, so I could focus on directing the saw blade accurately, while the weight and cutting action of the tool did the hard work. As well as cutting wood to size for woodworking projects, I found that this tool was very useful for cutting scrap wood into pieces to make firewood or kindling.

2. Cutting metal

With its metal-cutting saw blade attached, the WX501 did a good job of cutting through metal tubing. It completed this task quickly, although not as rapidly as it was able to cut through wood, and the maximum cutting capacity is lower (10mm for steel or 15mm for aluminium, versus 80mm for wood).

When cutting any workpiece with the WX501, I would recommend bracing the pivoting shoe at the front of the saw against the workpiece, as this makes it easier to keep everything stable and produce an accurate cut. Secure clamping is very important, and you may need to weight your workbench if it is light, as the action of the saw is very powerful.

3. Plunge-cutting

During my testing, plunge-cutting holes into MDF board proved to be the WX501’s most impressive capability. The saw was able to cut through the material with absolute ease and excellent control, even when I really tested it by cutting gently curved shapes.

I was able to tweak the cutting depth slightly by adjusting the saw’s movable shoe, which would be a handy capability when you’re cutting into a stud wall, for example. As this saw is relatively light, compared to other reciprocating saws, it was easier to control when plunge-cutting from below.

Ease of use

One of the selling points to this reciprocating saw is its compact format, and this does make it easy to hold with one hand around the grip, and the other supporting the tool from underneath. However, it’s still pretty heavy, and there’s not much for your non-trigger hand to grip while supporting the tool from beneath. When you’ve been using it for a longer-duration task, your forearms will know about it.

The saw is activated with a variable speed trigger. Pressing this lightly gives a slow, controlled cutting action, and I found that it was highly responsive when I wanted to press harder for a higher cutting speed. This is the only way to control the cutting speed – there are no selectable gears of the sort you sometimes find on tools like the best cordless drills. You can use the lock button next to the trigger to prevent it from being pressed down inadvertently and activating the saw.

Changing the saw blade is very simple – you just turn the blade release lever, push the blade into the blade clamp slot and allow the release lever to return to its original position, now holding the blade in place.

Battery performance

I was pretty impressed with this saw’s runtime. On a single charge of the 2.0Ah battery, it was able to complete a few hours’ worth of testing across various cutting tasks, as described above. However, I did need to recharge it in order to complete the process, and I believe that DIYers embarking on heftier tasks such as demolition work would benefit from buying a spare battery (available from Worx) to swap in whenever the original battery needs recharging.

The charger couldn’t be much simpler. It’s lightweight and provides just the right level of feedback via its status lights, which tell you when the battery is charging, fully charged, broken or at the wrong temperature for charging (the latter two were never needed during my testing). I was pleased to find that it could charge the 2.0Ah battery within around one hour.

Who should buy it?

I see the WX501 as a tool mainly for DIYers, rather than for professional tradespeople. It’s very handy for a variety of home improvement tasks, from rough-cutting timber and chopping shower rails down to size, to plunge cutting holes in the wall for electrical sockets (provided you know how to avoid cutting into wires!) I’d find it difficult to imagine the DIYer who wouldn’t find plenty of uses for a reciprocating saw – and this one is among the best in its class.

You might also find it useful for outdoor tasks such as cutting up wood for firewood, or cutting pruned tree branches into smaller pieces so that these can fit into the garden waste bin. (I use proper secateurs for the pruning itself, as these can produce cleaner cuts that are healthier for the tree.)

If you have a lot of structural work ahead of you (e.g. cutting through brick), then this saw might just about do the job, but you’d probably be better off choosing a contractor-grade reciprocating saw for tasks of this type – perhaps with corded power.

Final verdict

This is a very good tool for the lighter-duty work that’s typically tackled with a reciprocating saw. If what you need is a saw that will conveniently cut wood and metal, or plunge-cut into relatively soft materials (probably not brick or stone), then the WX501 is a superb option.

I was highly impressed with this saw’s cutting performance across a variety of tests. It was excellent at plunge-cutting, great at cutting wood, and good enough at cutting metal to suit most DIY scenarios. Perhaps best of all, its cutting capabilities are delivered in a compact, uncomplicated format that will help many DIY users get to grips with using a reciprocating saw.

If you’re working on a DIY project where you need to fix an object to a wall, I can guarantee you’ll need to use a Rawlplug to make it the fixing secure. Also known as wall plugs, Rawlplugs are a key component in the fixing process, but you need to choose the right ones for them to be effective.

When drilling into brick or masonry for example, you can’t simply screw straight into the drill hole. The screw simply won’t grip, and the fixing will fail. A Rawlplug will add the holding power needed to support it.

But you still need to choose the appropriate option. Find out what types are available and what will work for your next DIY project.

Rawlplugs, rawl plugs or wall plugs?

If you're wondering why you might hear the term Rawlplugs, rawl plugs and wall plugs in reference to just one type of product, there's a reason why, as Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements explains.

“A rawl plug, properly called a wall plug, is also called a 'Rawlplug' as it's the brand name that has become generically associated with it – a bit like a 'Hoover' is used to describe a vacuum cleaner. It's a small tube made of either plastic or nylon, inserted in a hole that's been drilled in masonry, into which you insert a screw.”

They are typically used in walls to provide a secure fix. "Brick, block, or concrete does not provide sufficient friction on its own for the thread of the screw to grip,” he expands. The plug expands to fit in the hole as the screw is inserted, and this expansion helps create a stronger hold between the screw and the wall.

Types of rawl plug

Rawlplugs are effectively designed the same, with slight variations for different DIY tasks. The key difference is the size. Scott Godfrey, trade consultant for Black Hammer and owner of SG Carpentry, explains further.

“The most common differences are the diameter and length of the plug. A larger diameter plug can generally support heavier loads because it creates a stronger grip inside the wall, and longer plugs are useful when you need extra support or when fixing into softer materials where a deeper anchor is needed,” he says.

“The sizes typically correspond to the diameter of the drill bit,” adds Angelo Patrizi. For example, a 6mm Rawlplug commonly fits a hole drilled with a 6mm bit.

Beyond the standard, there are also specialist plugs designed for different wall types, “Plasterboard fixings, cavity wall plugs and heavy duty masonry plugs all work differently because the materials they grip behave differently,” explains Scott.

What rawl plug colours mean

“The colours are a simple way to identify the size of the plug, although it’s worth remembering that colour coding can vary between brands,” explains Scott Godfrey. “Traditionally, red, brown and yellow plugs are commonly seen in DIY shops, with each colour representing a different diameter.”

Angelo Patrizi explains the common sizes for colours and what screw is needed.

“5mm plugs are yellow and need a no. 6-8 screw, 6mm is red and needs a no. 8-10, 7/8mm is brown and a no. 10-14 is needed. Large or heavy-duty for bigger fixtures are typically grey or blue plugs,” he adds.

Don’t forget to check sizes with the individual retailer before you buy or use though as colours, especially yellow, red and brown, may differ slightly.

Shop these Rawl plugs and tools for DIY projects

How to use a Rawlplug

It's pretty straightforward to use a Rawlplug, but there are a few simple rules to follow.

“To use one correctly, you first need to choose the right plug and screw for the job, then drill a hole that matches the size of the plug," says Scott Godfrey.

“The plug should fit snugly into the hole without being forced in, and it should sit flush with the wall surface,” he adds. Make sure the drilled hole is also deep enough for the plug's length.

A simple tip I use is to line up the Rawlplug alongside the drill bit to be used, add 5mm and mark this by wrapping masking tape around the drill bit

When to use Rawlplugs

Rawlplugs are used to attach items to masonry, typically walls. I use them mainly to put up shelves and hang pictures and hooks, but I have also used them to hang wall cabinets.

But these are not the only jobs where they will be called upon. Angelo Patrizi suggests a few other tasks, including, “hanging curtain rails and mirrors, fixing TV mount brackets and kitchen cabinet mounts, fitting radiators, rain gutter mount brackets and house numbers.”

“They’re particularly useful whenever you need a secure fixing in brick, concrete or plasterboard,” adds Scott Godfrey.

But, one word of warning. Remember, if fixing into plasterboard, Rawlplugs will not work; you will need specialist plasterboard fixings. "A small pack of plasterboard fixings (self-drilling or toggle) are needed for anything not going into masonry," confirms Angelo Patrizi.

For ease of reference, if you're wondering what colour Rawplugs will suit common DIY jobs, Anglo explains.

"Yellow (5mm) is ideal for lightweight fixings like picture hooks and small brackets. Red (6mm) is the most commonly used size, which is good for curtain poles, mirrors, and light shelving. Brown (7/8mm) for heavier shelving, radiators, kitchen units."

“A useful DIY toolbox should therefore include a few common sizes (5mm, 6mm and 8mm plugs are good ones) along with matching screws,” advises Scott.

Rawlplug hacks

A poorly drilled hole can mean a loose-fitting plug. The obvious solution is to drill a new hole nearby, but this isn't always possible.

If you do have a loose fitting, Scott Godfrey says, “don’t just force a larger screw into it and hope for the best If you don’t have the right plug available, it’s usually better to wait and buy the correct fixing, rather than risk damaging the wall or having the item fall.”

However, if you are only putting up a lightweight item, such as a shelf, Angelo Patrizi suggests a few hacks to help. “Take a small piece of insulation tape or even a strip taken from a plastic bag to fill up an undersized plug.”

Another option I’ve used over the years is matches. Break a couple of matches into the hole next to a loose plug in order to increase the friction; it’s an old trick but very effective.

How to remove a Rawlplug

If you’re lucky, you can remove a Rawlplug by hand. However, if this isn’t the case, there are a few options.

A simple way to remove is to get a larger screw and screw into the Rawlplug. Then get a pair of pliers such as these Draper 200mm Combination Pliers from Amazon to pull it out. Alternatively, use the claw on a claw hammer.

If you are struggling to remove a Rawlplug, I simply tap it in further and fill the hole with a decent wall filler. I use a patching plaster such as this Bartoline Patching Plaster from Amazon, as it sets quickly and is easy to rub down. Another option I’ve also used is to drill out the Rawlplug.

Rawl plugs are a key component when hanging items on the wall. Find out how they are used in our how to hang a picture guide. If putting up shelves and you need some inspiration, make sure you check our kitchen shelving ideas and bedroom shelving ideas before you start.

When kicking off a new DIY project, you almost always have to decide between nails or screws as the primary fixing. But which one will you need? Choosing between the two may seem obvious, and in some cases it will, but in other scenarios it won’t be.

For example, what will you need if you’re drilling into brick to put up a shelf? You’ll need a fixing that will bear the load and one that will provide better holding power. In this case, a screw.

However, it's not always that obvious, and there are times when you will need to decide. Based on my years of DIY experience, here's how to make the right choice.

Nails vs screws – how to choose

When it comes to how nails and screws look, it's pretty straightforward and easy to identify which is a nail and which is a screw.

“Nails have smooth shafts and are driven in by hammering," explains explains Tom Armenante, director at GTSE UK. "They rely on friction and wood compression to hold, install fast, and have some flex to absorb shock.

"Screws have a helical thread and are driven in by turning," he continues. "They grip better and resist pulling out, but are more rigid, slower to install, and easy to remove and reuse without damage.”

Rules for choosing

Choosing screws or nails for a project isn’t always easy, but there are some rules and guidelines that can help make the process simpler.

“There isn't a strict rule, but most tradespeople ask a few practical questions to help make their decisions,” shares Tom Armenante, explaining how one of the most important questions is, "will it be load-bearing or structural? If so, go with screws for better holding power," he says. "And, if it might need to come apart in the future, then screws again are the best choice, since they remove cleanly.

“If speed or volume is the priority however, then nails are a good choice, especially for things like first fix stud walls," Tom continues. "For jobs like timber settings where some flex or movement is expected, then nails are also a good choice, since they will flex rather than snap.

"For finishing work like fitting skirting boards and architrave, using nails, usually with a pin nailer, will give a clean finish,” he adds.

Scott Godfrey, trade consultant for Black Hammer and owner of SG Carpentry, notes how, “it's also worth thinking about the material you're fixing into. Plasterboard, decking, kitchen cabinets, shelving and flat pack furniture are generally better suited to screws, while timber framing, roof battens and some types of fencing often rely on nails.”

Also consider the project's weight and whether it is internal or external. “Always consider the weight the fixing needs to support and whether the project is indoors or outdoors," says Scott. “For external work, use corrosion-resistant fixings such as galvanised or stainless steel so they don't rust when exposed to the weather.”

Quick reference guide

Shop these tools for your next project

5 common mistakes DIYers need to avoid

The effects of choosing the wrong fixing may not always be immediately obvious. However, there can be longer-term consequences, explains Tom Armenante.

“Choosing the wrong fixing can compromise both structural integrity and aesthetics, leading to early failure and expensive repairs. In load-bearing applications, using nails instead of screws inevitably causes components to loosen, sag, or fail under weight.

"Meanwhile, using rigid screws where timber needs room to flex causes the wood to split and crack.”

As well as picking nails instead of screws, and vice versa, there are also common mistakes that DIYers often make that it helps to avoid if you want your DIY to stay together.

1. Don’t assume nails and screws are interchangeable

“One of the biggest mistakes is assuming nails and screws are interchangeable (they aren't),” says Scott Godfrey. "Using nails where screws are needed can mean your shelves, brackets or furniture gradually work loose because nails don't provide the same pull-out resistance.

"Or equally, using screws for some structural timber jobs where nails are specified can create problems because certain screws aren't designed to cope with movement in the same way.”

2. Choosing the wrong size

A common mistake is choosing the wrong size. Tom Armenante says, “don’t ignore the length and gauge of the fixing. If they are too short, they won't hold; too long and it can split the material or poke through the other side.”

3. Not choosing the right finish

“People also overlook the importance of using the correct finish,” warns Scott Godfrey. For example, “Standard steel fixings used outside will eventually rust, staining timber and weakening the fixing.” Tom Armenante adds, “A proper corrosion-resistant or stainless option will work better.”

4. Overdriving screws

It's easy to do, but try not to overdrive screws and Tom Armenante reveals why. “Avoid overdriving screws into the material as it could strip the head, sink too deep and crack the material by not stopping at the right torque.”

5. Not pre-drilling when needed

Pre-drilling, especially in wood, can help with installation. “Pre-drilling isn’t always needed," says Tom Armenante, "but with hardwoods or near edges, skipping a pilot hole causes splitting.”

Key sizes and types for a DIYer's toolbox

The types and sizes of nails and screws you will need will depend on what type of DIY projects you regularly tackle. However, as a general rule, Scott Godfrey recommends the following.

“A range of countersunk wood screws in common sizes such as 3.5 x 30 mm, 4 x 40 mm and 5 x 60 mm, as these cover many everyday jobs around the home.”

These Wirox Universal Screws from Amazon are a good choice, and make sure that you have Rawl plugs to match.

However, there are a lot of options to choose from says Scott.“For outdoor work, keep some galvanised or stainless steel wood screws in similar sizes. For nails, a packet of lost-head nails (such as these ForgeFix Lost Head Nails from Amazon), for trim work, oval wire nails for general timber jobs, and galvanised round wire nails for outdoor projects will handle most basic DIY tasks.

“If you regularly work with timber," he adds, "panel pins are also useful for lightweight mouldings and decorative trim.”

Tom Aramante also suggests a few other options. “Plasterboard screws have a finer thread, for stud walls and drywall fixing. The most common size is a 3.5 x 38mm. For outdoor timber, you might need decking screws," he notes. "These are typically corrosion-resistant and have a coarse thread. The common size is a 4.5 x 75mm.”

The tools you’ll need to install nails and screws

There’s a range of tools that you need to install nails and screws, some more obvious than others. “A good quality claw hammer is the most useful tool for nails because it allows you to drive them in and remove them if needed,” says Scott Godfrey.

However, if you are tackling larger construction projects, a nail gun will be useful, he continues. “Nail guns can speed up repetitive work, but they aren't essential for most homeowners. A nail punch (such as this 3Pcs Centre Punch Set from Amazon), is also useful when fitting trim because it allows you to sink the nail head below the surface before filling.”

For screws, the obvious tool is a screwdriver. However, “most DIYers will benefit from a cordless drill driver because it makes driving screws much quicker and less tiring,” advises Scott.

But if you are doing a lot of screw work, an impact driver such as this Ryobi Cordless Impact Driver from Amazon can be advisable to purchase. “Impact drivers are particularly useful for long screws or harder timbers because they provide extra turning force with less effort,” says Scott.

The final piece in the screw puzzle is the drill bit. But make sure you have the right ones for the screw being used, otherwise, you could find yourself in trouble.

“Driver bits must match the screw head correctly," warns Scott. "Using the wrong bit is one of the quickest ways to damage both the screw and the tool.”

A handy addition is a countersink bit, such as this 3 Piece 1/4 Inch Hex Shank Countersink Drill Bit Set from Amazon. These allow screw heads to sit neatly below the timber surface, creating a cleaner, more professional finish.”

Nails and screws are key components of a wide range of DIY projects. Check out our kitchen shelving ideas, how to install coving, and driveway fence ideas that will all need nails or screws.

When removing old paint from woodwork, it's tempting to rush the preparation and cover it with a new coat of paint. Who’s going to know? However, if I plan to stain or varnish the wood, I always make sure it's completely paint-free to achieve the finish and reveal the natural beauty of the wood below. Leaving any paint behind can spoil the appearance.

I could use less preparation, particularly if I'm repainting, but I believe doing the job properly gives better results. I’m probably a bit of a perfectionist, but using the right tools to remove old paint and sand wood guarantees the right finish.

In this guide, I explain what tools I use, how to use them (in the order suggested) and where you can buy them, so that you too can make sure your woodwork is easy to redecorate.

1. Use a heat gun to soften paint

When you have layers of paint to remove, a heat gun like this budget-friendly VonHaus Heat Gun from Amazon can be your best friend. It's a fast, efficient way to soften old paint before it's removed.

It works really well with oil-based paints, and you might read that it doesn’t work as well with water-based paints, but I’ve never had a problem. For thin layers of paint on wood, a sander is often a better choice as it's a one-step process. No need to heat, remove and then sand. Test an area first to determine which is the best approach, as each task is rarely the same.

Using a heat gun is straightforward to use. It will typically have one or two settings - high and low – and nozzles to direct the heat. For removing paint, use the high setting and the surface nozzle (or no nozzle at all). I generally don't use a nozzle for open areas of wood. If using near glass or an area you don’t want heated, use a thin nozzle to concentrate the heat where needed.

Hold the heat gun about 50mm from the surface and turn it on. Hold in position, gently move it back and forth across the area and wait until the paint starts to bubble. Then move on to the next area. As soon as you have heated a decent-sized area – around 200mm – get your scraper (more on this below) to remove the paint and repeat the process until finished.

A word of warning: when putting down the heat gun while removing paint, make sure to place it on a surface that won’t be affected by heat, e.g., wood. Place it on carpet or vinyl flooring, and it can melt a hole in the material (I know I’ve done it). Also, place it in front of you so you can see it. You don't want to accidentally lean on it and burn yourself (I’ve done that as well).

2. Start removing paint with a scraper

A paint scraper is key when removing paint, and there are a few options to choose from. If I’m removing paint from a mainly flat surface like a door, windowsill, wall, or panelling, I like to use a larger paint scraper, like this 50 mm heavy-duty wood scraper from Screwfix.

Simply place the scraper on the heated paint, apply gentle pressure, and drag it to remove the paint. You may need to go back over the area a few times to remove all paint. Make sure that the blade is clean after use. Typically, the paint will fall off the scraper, but occasionally it will need to be removed.

For more intricate/narrower flat areas, you can use a smaller scraper such as this Bahco 625 Pocket Hand Scraper from Amazon.

3. Use a shave hook for scraping curves

A shave hook is a different type of paint scraper. It typically has a triangular head and includes a straight edge, a small straight edge, a curved inset, and a curved edge. It's this combination that helps remove paint from intricate areas. The long shaft and wooden handle help minimise heat transfer.

I use my shave hook to remove paint from architraves, skirting boards, stair bannisters, and hard-to-reach grooves and corners. How you use it depends on what you are working on. The inset curve is ideal for rounded contours, while the point is great for tight corners and 90-degree joins.

However, be careful when working on intricate areas; take your time to ensure the shave hook doesn’t slip and gouge the wood.

4. Introduce wirewool for delicate or difficult paint removal

Wirewool (or metal scourer) is a finishing tool for removing paint. When I can’t quite get into a groove or an intricate curve on a moulding with any of the other tools I have at my disposal, I often revert to using wire wool to remove it (fine grade is good).

It's a little more flexible than sandpaper and is good for just about getting into anywhere. For deeper grooves, I sometimes combine it with the thin edge of a scraper, like this Dekton 2" Professional Scraper from Amazon. This helps to reach further into a groove or crevice.

It's also a good option if you're using a paint stripper. Sandpaper is more prone to clogging quickly, so you need to use more of it. However, when using wirewool (or a metal scourer), you can clean and carry on.

5. Finish off with sandpaper

Sandpaper is the classic finishing tool; whether sanding wood by hand or with one of the best hand sanders, it's the perfect tool for removing any remnants of paint and improving surface adhesion for a coat of paint or varnish.

For flat areas, a random orbital sander works for most surfaces. A detail sander like this BLACK+DECKER 55W Compact Electric Mouse Sander from Amazon is a good choice for getting into 90-degree corners and sanding stair spindles.

For heavy paint removal, start with a coarse sandpaper grade, such as 60 or 80-grit. Then use a finer grit, such as 180 or 220, to finish. Find out more in our sanding wood guide.

6. Unleash paint stripper for intricate areas

I’m not a fan of paint stripper for most paint removal jobs, simply because it slows the removal process and, in many scenarios, doesn’t do a better job than the other tools in this article. Typically, you’ll need to apply and leave for 30 minutes on thin layers of paint before it's effective. For lots of layers, it will need to be left for hours, and in some cases covered.

However, there are times when it can be a sensible choice, typically when removing paint from moulding, or furniture where you want to keep the detail.

To use, apply as instructed, usually with a brush; leave, then remove with a scraper, and wipe clean with white spirit or soapy warm water to remove any residue.

Why removing all paint is a good idea

There are a few reasons why removing all paint from woodwork is a good idea. David Baines, Technical specification manager at Johnstone's Paint, reveals why it's particularly essential if you'll be using a non-paint finish after stripping.

“If the aim is to restore the natural finish or the original look of a surface, any old paint needs removing in order to stain, oil, or varnish the exposed timber correctly. That way, any finish will penetrate evenly and bring out the beauty of the natural grain more clearly," he says.

David also says there's another, more practical reason. “Stripping back to the bare wood also allows you to inspect the surface substrate for any hidden issues such as moisture damage, rotting or repairs like holes or scratches that may need attention.”

The risks of leaving paint in place

Leaving old paint on woodwork is not a smart move as it can cause issues with the new top coat, David continues.

“Any new paint applied over a surface will only be as strong as the layer underneath. If the existing coating has started to peel, flake, blister or crack, applying a fresh coat of paint over the top will only disguise the problem temporarily and in time, the problems will get worse,” he warns.

"Any poorly adhered paint left on a surface could result in newly applied paint also peeling and cracking.”

However, this isn’t the only issue, he continues. “Painting over the top of existing paint also increases the likelihood of an uneven finish, with visible differences in old and new paint coats. These imperfections are often more noticeable when painted with certain types of paint such as modern satin, eggshell, or gloss finishes, which tend to reflect more light.”

And finally, if varnishing or staining wood, any paint left will almost certainly lead to poor adhesion and spoil the finished aesthetic.

FAQs

Do different types of paint require different tools?

It depends, says David Baines, agreeing that, "the most effective paint removal method can vary depending on the type and condition of the existing paint coating."

"Oil-based paints tend to form a harder, more durable film so may require more thorough removal tools such as heat guns, specialist paint strippers or more intensive sanding down," he advises.

"Water-based paints are often softer in texture, therefore generally easier to remove. Therefore, rubbing or sanding is usually recommended."

Are there any alternatives you can use to remove paint?

The selection of tools already mentioned in this article should be more than enough to get the job done. I've never needed any other tools to remove paint.

However, there are a couple of eco-friendly alternatives available. Vinegar is often touted as a paint remover and is useful for cleaning away paint residue left after scraping. However, it’s not a viable alternative to heat guns, scrapers and sandpaper.

For outdoor jobs where old, flaking paint needs to be removed, a pressure washer is a quick and effective method. However, be careful as the water jet can damage the surface of more delicate wood.

Once you have removed any paint from wood and prepped the surface, you need to take the next steps. Check out our guides on painting skirting boards, how to paint a panel door, and painting wooden doors to make the most of your freshly prepared surfaces.

A cordless drill and DIY go hand in hand, but there will be a time when even the best cordless drill simply doesn’t have the power to cope with a project. That’s when it's time to call in an SDS drill. This boasts what is known as a Slotted Drive System (hence the SDS moniker), which works differently from a standard cordless/corded drill with a grip chuck.

To keep it simple, it uses a different type of drill bit that gives the drill more hammer action. Making it ideal for heavy-duty tasks that a standard drill can’t handle.

Like most Black + Decker tools, this SDS hammer drill is aimed at DIYers and not professionals. So how would it tackle the DIY jobs I had lined up? Read on to find out.

Specification

• Motor: 650W
• Impact energy: 1.4J
• Cord length: 2 metres
• Weight: 2.3kg
• Chuck capacity: 2mm-13mm
• Chuck type: SDS+
• Guarantee: 2 years
• Features: 1 x keyed chuck, 8mm SDS-PLUS bit, 1 x 6mm SDS-PLUS bit, 1 x adjustable and removable side handle, Depth stop, 3 x drilling and hammer modes.

First impressions

The unboxing of a power tool is always a highlight for me, but it didn’t take long with this Black & Decker BEHS01 hammer drill. The drill itself sits in the box, no plastic wrap, along with a handle, gauge stop and a small cardboard box containing a drill chuck and SDS+ drill bits. From an environmental perspective (which, in my opinion, matters), there is little packaging to get rid of, and what little there is is 100% recyclable and chlorine-free.

The lack of a hard case or carry case is a minus point. All my other Black & Decker tools have always come with at least a carry bag. I’ve noted that some sellers show the drill with a carry case, but I’ve not seen one that actually comes with one. A shame as I would have liked a hard carry case.

The Black & Decker BEHS01 is weighty, but in SDS drill terms, it is relatively lightweight. It is well-balanced and has a soft-grip handle that holds the drill firmly in the hand. Other notable features are the thick 2m cord (generally means more power), the mode selector that locks into place (I liked that), a reverse switch, and a small mystery button, which I suspected would be a power lock button, but we will find out later. Overall, I liked what I saw.

Set up

A corded drill like the Black & Decker BEHS01, means you don’t have to worry about charging up a battery before you can get started. One less step in the setup process. And, as it comes with a UK plug you can plug it in straight away, hit the trigger, feel the power, and appreciate the noise.

Like most drills, there are three modes on the Black & Decker BEHS01. You’ve got drill, drill and hammer and hammer. You simply need to choose the one most appropriate for the job. The selector is a decent size, and operation is easy. A push button releases the selector and locks it in place when you reach your chosen mode. For me, I liked the added extra peace of mind.

Elsewhere, the keyless chuck is a breeze to use. Pull back the sleeve, insert your bit, and you are ready to go. It's the same process to release it. And let's not forget the side handle included to help steady the drill. This fits behind the chuck and can be placed in your favoured position thanks to the inbuilt notches. A small plastic nut tightens the handle in position, ready for action.

Finally, an interesting addition was the chuck adaptor for use with standard drill bits. I can see that Black + Decker are trying to add value and purpose, but I’ve already got my newly acquired Einhell cordless drill that does what I want so wasn't sure if this was necessary.

It does mean you can get extra power without having to splash out on SDS-friendly drill bits, but it looked awkward, and I just wasn’t sure about it.

Performance

The Black + Decker BEHS01 came with a couple of 6mm and 8mm SDS drill bits, which immediately limited how I could use it. So I invested in this 3-piece Erbauer SDS Plus Shank Chisel Set from Screwfix to test the Black + Decker BEHS01 more thoroughly. This included a 250 mm point chisel and 2 x flat chisels (20 x 250 mm and 40 x 250 mm).

To kick off testing, I decided to use my new chisel bits to break up some large blocks of concrete that I had dug out of the ground a while ago. I originally tried smashing them up with a lump hammer and a cold chisel, but without much success.

The mystery button turned out to be a lock button, which I decided to call into action straightaway. The hammer mode and the smaller chisel did a good job of breaking off chunks. It still took me a good 15 minutes to break up one large piece of concrete, but with no need to worry about swapping batteries, the drill didn’t miss a beat. A return visit a couple of days later got the same results on the remaining blocks.

Next, it was time to try the supplied drill bits. First up was drilling into concrete, which it handled with ease. Next, it was drilling into exterior brickwork for hooks, an absolute breeze. Then it was indoors to drill into walls in order to put up some shelf brackets; it couldn’t have been easier. All the masonry I tried, the drill powered through.

Next, it was back to the chisels and tile removal. I had two layers of tile on tile to tackle and the first layer came off pretty easily, but the original layer (stuck to the wall) was more challenging. But again, the Black + Decker BEHS01 was up to the task.

The final test was using the keyed chuck with standard drill bits. While it looked and felt awkward, (and I’m not a fan of keyed chucks, especially when I’ve lost the key), it worked fine and gave extra power where needed. In some cases, too much power compared to my trusty cordless drill.

The one issue I had with the Black + Decker BEHS01 was the attachable side handle. It was easy to fit, but no matter how much I tightened it, it still slipped off when tackling tougher tasks. For lighter tasks, I did however get to use the handy depth gauge that slips into the handle.

Who shoud buy it?

The Black + Decker BEHS01 is a great choice for DIYers who need extra power for projects that their cordless drill simply can’t handle. It's easy to struggle through using a cordless drill when it doesn’t quite have the power you need, but this isn’t good for your cordless drill and will shorten its working life.

An SDS type of drill is a smart addition for DIYers, and the Black + Decker BEHS01 is an affordable, easy-to-use tool that provides enough power to tackle most home DIY and home renovation projects. All you need to do is fit your chosen SDS bit, choose your mode and hit the power trigger.

Final verdict

I’d definitely recommend the Black & Decker BEHS01 to any DIYer who likes tackling lightweight demolition and drilling masonry jobs, and needs a bit more power than their favourite cordless drill offers. This is a great starting point for anyone who doesn’t own an SDS drill, or an occasional DIYer who wants to replace an old, worn-out drill.

The addition of the keyed chuck seems like an odd choice, but it works and lets your SDS drill double as an everyday drill that uses standard drill bits. Personally, I prefer to use my Einhell cordless drill for standard drilling and an SDS drill when a project calls for the extra power.

I would have liked to see at least a couple of chisel bits and a carry bag or hard case included, especially as it is aimed at DIYers. I think this would have made it the complete package. However, these are small points as you are getting an affordable SDS drill that will get stuff done, in fact, almost anything a DIYer will tackle.

Whenever you buy one of the best cordless drills, you’re often also paying for the potential to use the same battery and charger with other tools from the maker’s range. This Makita bundle gets you off to a flying start, giving you the DTD157 impact driver along with the DHP490 combi drill in a two-piece combo kit.

The two tools offer wide-ranging drilling and driving capabilities. With the DHP490 combi drill, you get drill, hammer drill and screwdriver modes, plus two gears, a variable speed trigger and torque up to 65Nm. Meanwhile, the DTD157 impact driver has a hex. 1/4" drive shank and can turn a wide range of machine screws and bolts, with hard impact and soft impact modes ranging up to a mighty 140Nm of torque. Both tools boast a brushless motor and Makita’s famously on-point ergonomics.

In theory, this two-in-one combo should therefore offer the best value for money, and strong performance of both tools. As an experienced DIYer, I put them both through the ropes to see if the investment was worth it.

Where to buy the Makita DLX2539ST 2-Piece Combo Kit LXT

Key specifications

• Cordless tool family: Makita LXT
• Intended uses include: drilling wood, plastic, metal and masonry; driving screws and lugs
• Battery capacity: 5.0Ah (x2)
• Voltage: 18V
• Drill speed: 0 - 500 / 1,900 min⁻¹
• Impact driver torque: 140Nm (max)

What's included

• Makita DHP490 cordless combi drill
• Makita DTD157 impact driver
• 2 x 18V, 5.0Ah lithium-ion batteries
• DC18SD battery charger
• Hard carry case

Both tools included are 18V models from Makita’s LXT range, and they can also be bought individually. The Makita DHP490Z 18V Cordless Brushless Combi Drill costs £68.50 from B&Q as a bare unit without the battery, while the Makita Impact Driver DTD157Z, also from B&Q and again as a bare unit, costs £62.99.

However, buying both tools together as the DLX2539ST kit could represent the best value, as also included in the set are two 18V, 5.0Ah lithium-ion batteries, the Makita Battery Charger LXT DC18SD (which can also charge 14.4V Makita batteries), and a slimline hardcase to store and carry the set.

How I tested

I tested the Makita DLX2539ST 2-Piece Combo Kit LXT by using it for an appropriate selection of DIY tasks, including drilling into brick and installing fixings.

1. Hammer-drilling holes in brick

Among the dozens of cordless combi drills I’ve tested, the Makita DHP490 from this kit is one of the very best at drilling into hard, dense materials like brick and breeze blocks. I’ve used many different models to drill holes in my home’s walls, which are built from very hard brick, and this has proven difficult with some drills. The DHP490 took around 30 seconds to perform the same job that demanded several minutes of struggle with competing models. My only gripe was that the chuck struggled to keep a secure hold of certain narrow drill bits.

You can see the sort of project that’s easily achievable with this drill in my article on how to hang shelves.

2. Driving screws

Both of these tools can drive screws. The DHP490 combi drill performs the task perfectly well, with its choice of 20 torque settings, two gears and the variable speed trigger collectively giving you excellent control over the force applied to the screw.

But it’s the DTD157 impact driver that really excels in this area. With a hex screwdriver bit securely installed in the collar, it turns fastenings with impressive power. I found this tool extremely helpful when working with long or stubborn screws that had proven impossible for me to turn using a screwdriver or combi drill. Just take care not to apply excessive force, as this can strip the drive on a screw – especially if the screw is relatively low-quality.

3. Drilling into wood

This is another job for the DHP490 cordless drill. I found that it worked quickly and powerfully when drilling into test pieces of hardwood and engineered board, boring neat holes with minimal effort. Where holes needed to be especially neat, I used the gear selector to choose the lower rev range for highly controlled drilling.

Ease of use

Even though this power tool kit is aimed at the more experienced end of the DIY market, it’s no more difficult to use than an equivalent set for occasional users or beginners. The controls, such as the direction selectors on both tools, and the mode selection collar on the cordless drill, work fluidly and intuitively. Charging the batteries is as easy as slotting one onto the charger.

If you’re new to using impact drivers, then you might face a slight learning curve with this component of the Makita kit. An impact driver typically has higher torque than a comparable cordless drill, which means drill bits and screws are subjected to stronger force. That’s generally a good thing, but it means you should use high-quality screws and extras such as this Makita E-12011 10 Piece Impact Black Bit Set from Amazon to minimise the risk of these components breaking, or the screws being stripped. In routine use, the DTD157 impact driver is even simpler to use than the DHP490 combi drill.

Battery performance

The Makita DLX2539ST kit never let me down in terms of battery life. Between the two included batteries you have ten amp-hours of work potential, which proved more than enough to get me through a day of DIY. I found that the included charger could recharge one of these hefty batteries within less than two hours, so there’s scope to power one of them back up during a mid-renovation meal break.

As with all lithium-ion batteries, the ones supplied with this kit will noticeably degrade after a number of years (or after sustained heavy use). You’ll maximise their good performance by following good battery maintenance practices, such as keeping the batteries charged to a moderate level and storing them at room temperature.

Who should buy it?

Clearly, this twin-set of tools is most relevant to users who will make good use of an impact driver, as well as a cordless combi drill. If you’re a keen DIYer and you often need to drive large or awkward screws, then using the impact driver will make this easier.

With this Makita bundle, you can work quickly by using the drill to make holes, and the impact driver to install fastenings into them. As there are two batteries included, you won’t even need to switch this component between actions (unless one battery is recharging).

On the other hand, I wouldn’t recommend this kit to casual DIYers who would rarely use the impact driver. If this sounds like you, then you might be better off buying the Makita DHP490SFX2 18V 1 x 3.0Ah Li-Ion LXT Brushless Cordless Combi Drill & Drill Bit Set from Screwfix that comes with the same drill, plus a high quality set of drill bits and other accessories in place of the impact driver.

Final verdict

True to form, Makita has delivered an impressive and capable power tool kit. The combi drill and the impact driver are both excellent tools in their own right, and when used together during complicated DIY projects they can bring a welcome boost in speed and convenience. Battery life and recharging are excellent, and the hard carry case is a smart and practical solution for keeping the set in good and orderly condition.

I have only a few gripes to mention – a drill chuck that’s not ideal for the narrowest drill bits, and a price that will put off some occasional DIYers – but neither is a deal breaker. The Makita DLX2539ST 2-Piece Combo Kit LXT is another powerful piece of evidence that Makita is the ultimate ‘prosumer’ brand for DIYers who are taking their home renovations seriously.

Robot vacuum and mop technology has taken a major leap in recent years, with brands competing on suction power, navigation and automated cleaning systems.

I own a range of models, but the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete Robot Vacuum Cleaner (available from Curry's) is meant to stand out from the crowd with stronger suction, extended mop reach and improved obstacle handling.

I put it through real-world testing to see how it performs in a typical home environment and whether it really stacks up against the best on the market.

Design, specs and key features

The MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete is positioned as a high-end robot vacuum and mop with a focus on deep cleaning and edge coverage.

It features a high suction system rated up to around 28,000Pa, placing it among the strongest on the market and ahead of many competitors in its class. For comparison, models like the eufy Omni C28 (which I also tested) typically sit around 15,000Pa, while Roborock and Ecovacs' flagship units often range between 7,000–12,000Pa.

A key differentiator is its extendable mop arm system, which actively pushes outward during cleaning to reach edges and corners. This is something most circular robot vacuums struggle with due to their fixed round mop footprints.

The Z60 Ultra Roller Complete includes a full self-maintaining docking station handling dust emptying, mop washing, drying and water refilling.

A nice added feature was that it also came with replacement dust bags, mop pads, cleaning solution, filters and rollers, reducing early running costs compared with many rivals where consumables often need replacing within months.

Cleaning performance and real-world testing

I tested the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete on a range of floors and I have to say it delivered strong results, with deep cleaning performance that was noticeably more effective than its competitors.

It handled dust, fine debris, and pet hair effectively, and the mop system provided consistent water distribution without obvious streaking.

However, where it stood out most was edge and corner cleaning. The extendable mop arms allowed it to reach into areas that circular systems typically miss, giving a more complete clean along walls and furniture edges compared with standard robotic mops.

In testing on thick black carpet and hallway transitions, the vacuum demonstrated strong adaptability across different floor types and obstacles. It is capable of climbing thresholds of around 4.5cm, with manufacturer claims suggesting up to 8cm in multi-step configurations, placing it well above many competing robot vacuums.

This makes it particularly effective in homes with mixed flooring and higher doorway transitions, where many circular robot vacuums can struggle or become stuck.

That said, cleaning time could be slow. A single 10m² room on deep clean mode took up to 30 minutes, particularly when the robot was performing repeated scanning passes or re-checking layout data.

Navigation, limitations and usability issues

Despite its strong cleaning ability, navigation is where the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete shows its weaknesses.

In testing, it frequently bumped into objects and occasionally struggled with tight spaces, with wheel entrapment happening more often than expected for a premium model. This is less common in systems such as Roborock Qrevo (available on Amazon) and Ecovacs' Deebot X11 (also on Amazon), which typically use more advanced obstacle avoidance.

It also had a tendency to re-clean areas unnecessarily, even outside of deep clean mode, which increased total cleaning time and reduced efficiency in smaller spaces.

Mapping and scanning were also slow, especially in unfamiliar environments, making initial setup and first runs noticeably longer than rival systems. Battery drain was also significant under high-power or deep clean modes, meaning it performed best in open-plan layouts where it could return to its dock more easily.

Is the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete the best robot vacuum cleaner?

This model delivers strong deep cleaning performance, impressive edge coverage and one of the most complete automation packages currently available on the market.

Its extendable mop system and high suction power give it a clear advantage over circular rivals in detailed cleaning tasks, particularly along edges and hard-to-reach areas.

However, its navigation inconsistencies, occasional object collisions and slow cleaning cycles mean it is not the most efficient option for every home. While it performs best in open-plan spaces where it can operate continuously from its dock, it may feel less refined in cluttered or complex environments.

Overall, the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete Robot Vacuum Cleaner is a powerful cleaning system that competes strongly at the top end of the market, but whether it is the “best” depends on whether you prioritise deep cleaning power over speed and navigation precision.

Found this helpful? You may also want to read our buying guide on the best vacuum cleaners for builder's dust or our review of the Henry HVR160.

Tiling around a toilet isn’t easy. The curves and bends provide a challenge for any DIYer. Get it wrong, and you will have to break out a new tile and start over. Or you could be spending forever removing tiny slivers of tile to get a good fit.

Whether you are laying floor tiles, wall tiles or using peel-and-stick tiles, the principles remain very much the same. But the techniques to achieve the curve and fit you need can differ depending on different factors.

Here, I explain the three steps you need to follow and the different methods you can use to try and achieve the perfect fit when cutting tiles around your toilet.

Step one: marking the curve

Cutting curves in a tile needs to be done accurately in order to ensure a good fit, and it all starts with marking out the curve correctly

These are the four tried and tested methods I've tried and tested.

1. Create a cardboard template

Creating a template is an old-school method, but it works well. However, you need to be patient to get the best results. Stephen Russell, independent tiler of Ashley Cross Tiling, says, “use a piece of cardboard to mark the curve and cut to shape. Don’t rush the process. If you do, you might need to start again.”

First, place the tile onto the cardboard, mark it with a pencil and then cut the cardboard with large wallpaper scissors. Alternatively, you can use a sharp steel snap-off knife, such as this Wolfcraft Metal Snap-Off Blade Knife from Amazon.

Now measure from the edge of the tile you are laying next to the toilet or object. Start at one end of the tile, take measurements every 50mm, and mark them on the template. This gives you a rough outline of the curve.

Next, make a cut on the template from the edge to be removed, just past the marks you made previously. Do this every 10mm. You’ll now have a set of strands that are flexible. Place the template where the tile is going to go, and don’t forget the gap for the grout if using stone or ceramic tiles.

Finally, press around the area (I use the end of a pencil) where the template meets the curve to create a crisp crease. Mark the shape with a pencil, pick up the template and cut along the mark. Put the template in place and check that it matches up as expected. If too tight to the curve, trim and check again. When happy, transfer to the tile.

An alternative is to use construction paper; the process is the same, but the material is usually slightly easier to cut. This method works a treat as long as you take your time. And don’t forget the grout gap.

2. Use a contour gauge

A contour gauge, such as this Dodowin contour gauge profile tool from Amazon (which I have), is a quick and easy way to get an accurate curve. Simply hold in place and push against the curve. Then transfer to a tile and mark with a pencil.

A contour gauge doesn’t have much depth; mine is around 70mm. However, you can turn and use the full length (in my case, 25cm) of the gauge to profile a longer curve.

Shop these tools for great curved tile cuts

3. Measure and mark

If you don’t have a piece of cardboard or a contour gauge handy, you can go freestyle and just measure and mark. I simply take a measurement every 20mm and mark on the tile. Then, join the marks freehand.

This method works well, but you need to take your time, as there’s no room for error. And don’t forget the grout gap. I use a straight edge and a pencil and mark the gap on the floor (or wall), so I don’t forget where to measure from.

4. Homemade hack

I’ve also used a child's school compass as a quick way to create a curve on a template, which you can transfer to a tile. I’ve also used it to mark plank-style tiles directly. This works well on the long side of an object (like a toilet) with a gentle curve.

I generally use a pencil to mark the curve, but a felt tip can work if the pencil isn’t working well, and the tile doesn’t stain.

Step two: Marking the tile to cut

There are a few options to mark a tile so you know where to cut. This will depend on the type of tile. “Use a pencil, as a felt tip pen can sometimes stain certain types of tile," warns Stephen Russell.

Felt tips are typically used on glazed tiles because they can be easily wiped clean. "Make sure you double check they wipe off cleanly on a test tile first," adds Harriet Goodacre, interiors and tiling expert from Topps Tiles, "as you don’t want any unsightly marks left on your brand new tiles."

The other option is to use a tile scribe. “A tile scribe can be used to lightly score the surface of the tile where you need to cut it, explains Harriet. "It’s especially useful when you want a guide that won’t rub away during the cutting process.

“The key is visibility without going too deep," she notes, "as too heavy scoring can lead to chipping.”

Step three: cutting the curve on the tile

There are a few options for cutting a curve once the tile has been marked out. “For curved cuts, it all comes down to how tight the shape and bend is and what the tile’s made from,” advises Harriet Goodacre.

For small curves, a pair of tile nippers is usually sufficient. For larger curves, both our experts, and I, recommend an angle grinder.

“Ease the angle grinder through the marked line using the weight of the angle grinder; do not use added force,” says Stephen Russell.

“Keep running through the angle grinder several times, don’t cut right through the tile when you start," he adds, noting how you also need to make sure you use a masonry disc to cut with.

Alternatively, you can use an electric tile cutter such as this Titan Electric Tile Cutter from Screwfix. This only allows straight cuts, so the technique is to make cuts every 10-20mm from the edge of the tile to the marked-out curve. Ideally, use a tile scribe to mark the curve, then you can snap off each thin tile strand and finish with tile nippers and a metal file such as this TARIST Half Round Metal File from Amazon, for smooth edges

For small, more intricate curves, you can use a tile saw. Good for wall tiles, but you might find you struggle with thicker floor tiles.

You might have seen a few videos online where a tiler uses a manual tile cutter, such as this Vitrex Heavy Duty Tile Cutter from Toolstation, to cut a curve. I can promise you this takes plenty of practice and is best avoided for most DIYers.

If you’re tiling a bathroom floor, you’ll need to know how many tiles you'll need. Especially if cutting curves around a toilet. Find out where to get the best deals with our where to buy bathroom floor tiles guide, or, for inspiration on what to buy, check out our bathroom floor tile ideas.

A cordless drill is an essential tool for any DIYer, so choosing a good one is important. Invest in a poor choice, and it won’t be long before you’ll be looking at spending again. The latest cordless drill to cross my path is the Einhell TP-CD 18/50, an everyday drill aimed at DIYers.

This is the first time I’ve encountered an Einhell drill, so I was excited to see what it had to offer. As a package, it’s making all the right noises, and it comes in at a very tempting price point.

Would it finally be time to say goodbye to my faithful old Black and Decker cordless drill and let the Einhell take its place? Time to find out.

Buy the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 drill today

Spec and features

• Motor type: Brushless motor
• Torque: 50 Nm
• Gears: 2
• Battery type: Lithium Ion
• Battery voltage: 18v
• Weight: 2.35kg
• Chuck capacity: 2mm-13mm
• Features: LED work light, torque adjustment collar, battery level indicator, 1 x hard carry case, 1 x drill body, 1x battery charger, 2 x 2.0Ah batteries, 1 x belt clip, instruction manual

First impressions

Who doesn’t love a power tool that comes with its own hard case? Any type of case is a winner, as it helps protect a power tool, but the Einhell hard case gives the impression of being a long-term friend to the Einhell drill.

It's a solid plastic case with a bright red lid emblazoned with the brand name. At least it will be easy to find. Inside, it is lined with egg box foam padding (one side) and flat foam padding on the other. This ensures that the drill, batteries and charger aren’t thrown around and damaged when on the move.

The drill body feels sturdy and well-built, and sits neatly in the hand, with the rubberised grip giving a secure feel. The LED light instantly makes an appearance when the trigger sets the drill into life (my battery was charged and ready to go). Can I switch this off? Not sure (yet), but it might be good if I could switch it off when not needed as it would help save battery life.

Setting up

As you might expect, there’s not much work involved in setting up a cordless drill. Slide in the battery and you’re ready to go. The battery was already charged, so it could be used straight out of the box which is a nice touch.

What you do need to do is familiarise yourself with the torque selector and the selector switch. The selector switch lets you choose between driving, drilling and impact drilling (the hammer function).

You will need to combine this with the most suitable torque setting to help ensure you get the best from the Einhell TP-CD 18/50. To add a little more to the mix, there are two gears which help you fine-tune performance. There’s a lot going on, so if you are an inexperienced DIYer, you should read the instruction manual fully before you start.

Performance

The fun part of any review is using the product itself, and a new cordless drill is always going to see plenty of action. To kick off, I thought I’d ease myself into using the Einhell TP-CD 18/50with some simple wood screwing tasks. There are no drill bits or a bit holder included, so I used what I already had. The 13mm chuck is easy to use, but slightly different from other drills I’ve used. But it did what it needed to do, without any problems.

I started with 100mm screws for screwing fence panels into wooden posts. With the screw selector in position and the torque setting set to 11, off I went. This worked as expected, but on tougher parts, I had to turn the torque up to the maximum level to finish.

I struggled with one screw in particular, so I switched over to my old cordless drill to see how it compared. The Einhell TP-CD 18/50 was definitely doing a better job, probably thanks to its extra torque (50 Nm compared with 40 Nm).

Like all good drills, the drill stops when it reaches its managed torque level. This ensures you have more control over the drill and don’t go too deep with a screw, which could split the wood. So start low and turn up the torque until you get the level you want.

Tackling heavy duty DIY drilling tasks

Switching the selector to drill or hammer mode eliminates the need to choose a torque setting, with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 automatically switching to maximum output. Perfect for the next set of DIY tasks I had in mind.

Next up was drilling into exterior brickwork, and using my spade drill bit to create recesses in a fence post, ready for the concrete screws. The Einhell TP-CD 18/50 zipped through the timber with no problem.

Switching over to my DeWALT masonry drill bits, putting it into second gear, the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 powered into the brickwork with relative ease. At one point, the drill bit did stick, but I simply retightened the chuck and carried on.

Next up was a move indoors to put up some heavy-duty shelf brackets. Drilling into my interior walls has been hard work in the past. But the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 provided all the power I needed to drill deep enough for the Rawl plugs and screws to be inserted.

I also managed to do all the tasks mentioned without having to swap over the battery. So, I decided to keep going on other DIY tasks to get a better idea of battery life. Overall, I have to say I was very happy with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50's performance so far.

Shop these tools to use with a cordless drill

Battery life

Battery life is key for any cordless tool, and the 18V 2.0Ah batteries supplied with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 didn’t disappoint. The charger features a set of easy-to-understand icons that make it clear what stage the charging is at. Red and green LEDs make sure you don’t get confused.

Charging times using the supplied charger were pretty swift, taking just 40 minutes to reach a full charge and be ready to go. This would be ideal if you only had one battery, but with two batteries on offer, I always had a fully charged battery ready to replace the other when needed.

You might think that quick charging times mean short working times, but this wasn’t the case with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50. A fully charged battery lasted around 45 minutes to an hour. In real terms, that meant I tackled a whole host of DIY jobs over the weekend and didn’t need to replace the battery. And when I did, I had a fully charged battery ready to replace.

A trio of LED lights on the battery can be activated with a quick press of a button to indicate remaining power. Confusingly, the lights were red, rather than green, but I can live with that.

Final verdict

If you’re looking for an everyday drill that can tackle pretty much any DIY task that you can throw at it, then the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 Cordless Brushless Combi Drill is definitely one you need to add to your list. It offers plenty of torque (50Nm) for a standard cordless drill, which sits at the top end of what you usually get at this level.

For less than £100, you get a solid drill, two batteries, a charger, and a hard case, which, in my opinion, makes it good value for money. You might not get any drill or screwdriver bits with it, which would have been nice, but a charger and two batteries more than make up for this. On the plus side, you can choose the bits you need rather than getting a bunch you may never use.

Throw in quick charge times and decent working times, and there’s little that I didn't like about the Einhell TP-CD 18/50. How long it stays as my number one drill, only time will tell.

Not every DIYer has the same definition of budget when looking to buy power tools, so for clarity, in this article, I’m going to focus mainly on budget brands and power tools that sit at the low end of the price scale. However, I have included a well-known power tool brand for balance and curiosity.

Just remember that budget doesn’t have to mean bad. Better-known brands like Makita and DEWALT undoubtedly produce good-quality tools, but they are typically aimed beyond the DIY market and are built for everyday use, meaning they cost more. Budget power tools rarely have the same build quality, but you can still find quality for DIY use.

Here I share the 5 budget tools I've been using for years and what to consider when shopping for your own affordable tool kit.

Five power tools I didn’t spend big on and are still going today

1. Black+Decker cordless drill

A drill is the king of power tools for DIYers. It’s one tool that every level of DIYer owns, and it's often the first power tool they buy. It's been a while since I bought my first power tool, but my current cordless drill from Black+Decker has been with me for over ten years. And it didn’t cost big bucks back when I bought it.

However, it's been with me so long that the specific model I have is no longer available. But the current incarnation (see below) is well-priced and a great choice for basic drilling and screwing.

If you want something more powerful, then I can recommend the Einhell TE-CD 18 Cordless Combi Drill (available from Screwfix). I’ve just got this, and I’m liking it. Hopefully, it will last as long as my existing Black+Decker model.

2. Black+Decker detail sander

I know it's another Black+Decker power tool, but I’ve always found them to be a good choice for DIY jobs, and this handy little detail sander works a treat and costs just over £20. I’ve had mine for over five years, and it’s done my stairs, spindles and bannisters. It’s also sanded dozens of doors, door frames, architraves, window frames, window sills and skirting boards. In fact, most of the woodwork in my home – and it's still going strong.

The only things I've had to change are the plug (I broke it) and the sandpaper pads. And if it does go wrong, I‘ve only got to shell out another £22.

3. Von Haus orbital sander

I had never heard of VonHaus before their orbital sander made its way into my hands. But I needed a new sander, read a few reviews, and thought I’d take a chance. I can’t remember how much I paid for it, but it wasn’t a lot, and I’ve had it for around four years. It’s been a faithful companion to my detail sander, so it's seen a lot of action.

Alongside all the jobs my detail sander has tackled, this orbital sander has done even more. It has sanded plywood and MDF sheets, refreshed my garden furniture, and even helped sand floorboards.

Its easy-to-use variable-speed feature is very helpful when sanding and probably helps prolong its life, as it's not always in top gear. And, like my Black+Decker mouse, it's still going strong, and the current price point (just under £30) makes it worth considering.

4. MacAllister circular saw

MacAllister was another brand I had never heard of when I bought their circular saw. But my thinking was a little different. I needed a circular saw, and on one of my many trips to B&Q, I spotted the Mac Allister 190mm corded circular saw at a very affordable price. So I bought it.

Here we are over three years later, and it's still working fine. It has cut through numerous sheets of plywood and MDF, helping me build wardrobes, shelving units, shelves, flooring, and timber partitions.

As you might expect, it's not cordless, so you’ll need an extension lead (like this STATUS 2 Socket Cable Reel from Amazon) to ensure you’re in the right place when you need to be. The blade is an all-rounder with 24 teeth which is great for ripping through timber and board, but you might need something more subtle if looking for a finer cut.

5. Makita mitre saw

I have to be honest and say that my Makita mitre saw isn’t at the budget end of the price scale, but I think it's definitely good value for money. This is one of my most recent acquisitions, and I decided to invest a bit more as I had the budget to do so. And I was curious, and wanted to see the quality I would get from a well-known brand.

It's fair to say I wasn’t disappointed. This saw is sturdy and well-built, with a general air of quality. The Makita LS0714N/1 190mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw (available from Screwfix) has helped me build custom fence panels and lay wooden floors, ensuring I get crisp, clean and even edges, and angles where needed.

If you don’t want to spend a lot, there are plenty of cheaper alternatives that will do a decent job. Worx and Metabo (like this Metabo KGS 216 Slide Compound Mitre Saw from Amazon) are good mid-range options, while Evolution power tools are a good budget option as well.

How to choose budget power tools

If you are an occasional DIYer, you will probably use your power tools only a few times a year. Even if you’re a keen DIYer, it's unlikely all your power tools will be called into action every weekend.

And, when you do call upon your power tools, some will be called into action more than others. For example, a drill is probably going to get a lot more use than an angle grinder, so it makes sense not to buy really cheap tools that you use the most. Read reviews and take a chance; most of the time you won’t be disappointed.

I’ve bought a lot of budget power tools, and they rarely let me down. And when they have, it's been very soon after purchasing, so I’ve been able to take them back under the warranty and get them replaced.

My general advice is always to consider how much use a power tool will get and buy accordingly. If it's going to get a lot of use, spend at the top end of your budget. If unsure, buy a budget brand and see how it goes. What's the worst that can happen? It might only last a couple of years. Alternatively, it could last for years like my budget power tools have.

Also, compare budget brand prices with cheaper versions of well-known brands. You might get something that costs a bit more, but may last longer and offers more features.

Finally, I suggest you buy high-quality accessories such as drill bits and sanding discs. Accessories supplied with budget models are, as a general rule, low in quality.

FAQs

Who makes budget power tools?

Take a search on Amazon, and we guarantee that you’ll find a whole range of power tool brands you have never heard of alongside the more established ones. Take a trip to your local B&Q, and you’ll notice some very competitively priced power tools under the MacAllister name. They also have a brand called Erbauer. Screwfix has a brand called Titan, and even Lidl has some smart power tool bargains under the Parkside banner. These are all own-brand power tools.

Most budget tools come from manufacturers that already make power tools. As an example, the Parkside brand (found in Lidl) is owned by the Einhell group, based in Germany, which produces its own power tools. B&Q and Screwfix are both part of the Kingfisher group. So it's safe to assume many of their power tools come from the same source.

Brands like B&Q with their own brand power tools still want a good reputation, so it makes sense that you are still getting a decent product when you opt for a more budget price tag.

The right power tools make any DIY project go that bit smoother. Call your sanders into action and get your prep right for must-see paint trends, matching skirting boards with your interior style and making the most of some smart wall panelling ideas.

You might think that owning four electric sanders is just plain greedy. Surely one is enough? Or maybe two if you are feeling extravagant. But it's not how many sanders you own that matters. What matters is that you have the right sander for whatever sanding project you are working on.

Use the wrong sander, and you will make the task more difficult and most likely not get the finish you should. I’ve built up my collection of sanders as DIY projects have come and gone, and my advice to you would be to do the same.

The following types of sander are what I have in my collection, and I find that each one is perfect for a different type of DIY task.

Orbital sander – my go-to option

If you only have one sander in your DIY toolkit, I’d make it an orbital sander.

The best orbital sanders are a great choice for most sanding jobs, especially on flat areas such as doors, window sills, tabletops and wooden kitchen worktops. It's also a good choice for sanding skirting boards.

For decorative items, such as architrave or ogee skirting boards, I use an orbital sander to tackle the flat areas before switching to an alternative option.

A key feature of random orbital sanders is that the sanding pad spins and oscillates simultaneously, which helps produce a smoother finish with fewer sanding marks. However, you will notice the marks if using coarser grits.

The best way to get rid of these is to progressively use finer grades if you need a smooth, mark-free finish for surfaces that will be varnished or polished rather than painted. I suggest you use an 80- or 120-grit for the first run, followed by a 240-grit to finish.

Great for: doors, tabletops, wooden kitchen worktops, sanding down wall filler.

Detail sander – when detail comes calling

An orbital sander may be a great all-rounder, but when it comes to 90-degree angles, its round sanding pad simply doesn’t fit. This is when you need to embrace the triangular sanding pad of a detail sander.

A detail sander is perfect for a whole host of DIY jobs. The most common jobs I use it for are stairs and doors. My latest detail sander is a BLACK+DECKER Mouse (available from B&Q), which has a compact design and fits neatly in the hand, making it easy to get into corners and edges on stairs and ideal for panels on a door.

But these are not the only areas I use it. I’ve used it on flat stair spindles, bannisters, furniture, corners and edges on walls and ceiling, for sanding MDF edges and small filled wall holes, among others.

Some detail sanders, including mine, have an extension (known as a ‘finger’ or similar). These fit on top of the pad, making it easier to get into tight corners and areas like door slats. If you don’t have one, check whether your sander has the capability, and check online for one like this OTOTEC 2PCS Sander Finger Platen on Amazon.

Great for: door panels, board edges, stairs, small filled holes.

Sheet sander – ready to finish up

The beauty of a sheet sander is that it typically has a larger sanding pad than other sanders (like this Makita BO3710 Sheet Sander from Amazon). This covers more area with each pass, effectively removing more material faster. However, some sheet sanders have a smaller square pad, which makes them great for straight edges and corners.

My sheet sander, which has the larger rectangular pad, is used much less than my orbital or detail sander. I typically use it for sanding plywood and MDF to get a fine finish on the face of the board and to smooth out the edges to match.

Another bonus is that I don’t need specific sanding discs to fit the sander, like an orbital sander, detail sander, or belt sander. I just buy sheets of sandpaper in the grits I want and cut them to fit the pad. This works out cheaper.

Great for: large flat areas such as doors, walls, boards (plywood, MDF, OSB), corners and edges.

Belt sander – when you need more power and speed

Belt sanders are not for fine finishing, and while a useful sander to have, in my opinion, they are not a necessary purchase unless you have a DIY project that benefits from what they have to offer. And that's exactly why I have a belt sander.

The reason I purchased a belt sander (like this Lumberjack 4" Belt Sander from B&Q) was to give my old parquet floor a refresh. I didn’t want the cost of replacing the floor or destroying the original floor. There’s an art to using a belt sander to sand floors, so I suggest you get a few practice runs in before starting on flooring that will be on display. It's easy to get unwanted ridges.

Since then, I’ve used my belt sander to level out floorboards, remove paint from old doors (again, wanted to keep costs down and retain the original doors), and finish off old boarded floors (remove leftover glue debris and rough areas, ready for new flooring). They are typically more expensive than other sanders, but I would say they are definitely worth the investment.

Great for: levelling floorboards, smoothing out rough timber, material removal on larger areas. It can also be used to sand engineered wood flooring.

Shop these sanders and add to your toolbox

Multi-tool sander attachment – a bonus addition for greater flexibility

I know I’ve already covered most bases when it comes to sanding, but alongside my four sanders, I do have a multitool with a sanding attachment. The sanding pad on my Black + Decker MultiEvo Multitool is very much the standard triangle shape, making it ideal for small detail jobs.

Do you need one? Not if you already own a detail sander. However, if you already own a multitool, it will most likely have a sanding attachment, so you don’t need to invest in a detail sander. I’m lucky to have both, so I use whichever is closest at hand and has the right grit sandpaper for whatever I’m working on.

Great for: panelled doors, wall repairs, shelf edges, window sills, door frames, skirting boards

Do you really need four different sanders?

There isn’t a simple yes or no answer to this question. What you do need is a sander that fits the job you are doing. If looking to remove material, fast, from a surface, a belt sander is a more obvious choice than a detail sander.

However, as a general guide, for most common DIY projects, I would recommend a random orbital sander and detail sander as the best combo. This deals with most flat surfaces, corners, and edges. However, if you are straying into larger, more heavy-duty DIY tasks, then sheet sanders and belt sanders will be needed.

I would start with an orbital and detail sander and add as needed. Also, if you do a lot of sanding, I would suggest stepping up the quality ladder and making a larger investment in your tools. Brands such as DeWalt and Makita are quality DIY products. If you really want to spend big, Festool and Mirka are good brands to consider.

Sanding is all part of the preparation process, commonly used to get wood ready for painting. Sanding walls can also be a smart move to ensure the surface is smooth and ready for paint application.

Sanding can obviously be a messy job, but there are ways to make sanding less dusty, such as using a sander that captures dust at source.

Spring is when most households start cleaning up their homes ready for summer – but there is one job I tend to strongly dislike, and that is pressure washing.

I've found it often difficult to find all the parts when you first get it out of the garage, before ending up being a job that takes all day, leaves you soaking wet and filthy dirty.

So when I was offered the chance to try a fancy new pressure washer from Kärcher that claimed to be "comfortable", I must admit I was suspicious about whether it really could make this particular task less nasty.

The Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium, which was launched in January, certainly looked smart from all the promotional material online. With its black and yellow ergonomic look, five-year warranty and 145 bar of pressure, it seemed to have an edge compared to some of other best pressure washers in a similar high-end price bracket.

Unboxing

The box the pressure washer came in was substantial, but despite being heavy, I was able to move it myself from where the delivery man left it, using the plastic straps.

The bright, yellow design was smart and immediately identifiable as holding a Kärcher pressure washer. This was great in terms of visual appeal, but worth noting to be aware of perhaps not leaving a newly-delivered box unattended outside a property in any crime-prone areas. You wouldn't want your expensive new machine being stolen before having the chance to even use it.

When it came to unboxing, this was straightforward and I was especially impressed that there was very little plastic inside, just one sheet, plus the straps to hold the box together on the exterior. The pressure washer was thoughtfully cushioned with cardboard to avoid any damage in transit instead, with all the different parts wedged together so they didn't move around too much. The instruction manual was on top, and easy to find on opening.

Ease of setting up

The Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium came with an instruction manual that was reasonably easy-to-follow from the diagrams, although it was a little unclear which part of the pressure washer to start constructing first, possibly because it didn't actually matter in what order it was put together. This took around 30 minutes.

Overall I found the assembly straight forward, with the only slightly fiddly bit being affixing the hose to the trigger gun, which is designed to be removable for storage. I didn't fully understand the need for the yellow pouch on the front, but suspect this might be to do with storing additional features that can be purchased.

I was liked the way the universal cleaner slotted straight into the machine ready for automatic dispersal through a specific setting on the rotating nozzle on the lance. I was looking forward to giving this a go.

First impressions

Once the Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium was fully constructed, I gave it a good look over before putting it to the test by cleaning my very dirty patio. It didn't fail to impress, being just as slick in person compared to how it looked online.

The build-quality was excellent – made from 25% recycled materials – with no sign of any flimsy parts, or anything that looked weak enough to break. The fixings were well oiled, and all the buttons had a nice firm feel to them as they were pressed. One thing to watch was the grey trigger on the lance did catch my skin once, which nipped a bit.

The product has been well thought out in its design. The grey hose can be removed from the trigger gun (although this took some fiddling around with to work out how), with a reel for tidying it away when not in use. Meanwhile, the lance itself could be broken down into two sections with two holders on the front to slot them into when packed away.

My only slight surprise was how heavy the machine was at 13.8kg, making it rather cumbersome to lift over the gravel and steps in my garden, without bashing it into things accidentally. The handle on the top was useful for lifting, and any flat surfaces were easy to tackle as the K5 had a decent pair of wheels, and the ability to extend the handle to pull it or push it along.

Ease of use

I had a very dirty patio to test the Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium on, but this pressure washer is suitable for all sorts of things, from cleaning decking, removing weeds from a patio or even washing your car on a lower setting.

You generally aren't advised to use pressure washers on some patios, due to the chance of too much force blowing any crumbling mortar or grout away, or even causing damage to the slabs themselves. However, we only laid this patio last year and it was a robust limestone, so I was fairly confident that the grout and slabs were in good shape.

Despite the slabs being fairly newly-laid, I was surprised by just how dirty they had become over winter, which was in part because we have lots of trees overhanging it, it is fairly low lying, and we have lots of animals unleashing their business on it (the dachshund and chickens being the worst offenders).

Wheeling out the Kärcher K5 for the pressure washing

I used an outdoor plug socket to plug in the K5, and was relieved to find that the cable had enough length (five metres) to not need a series of extension leads, as I have found with cheaper models in the past. The cable tidy on the machine was also well designed, enough to be able to undo just enough length for what I needed, rather than having to pull the whole lot off. This made it much easier to use.

I struggled to attach the trigger gun to the grey hose until I turned the electric supply off, which I don't know if that was a safety feature, or just me failing to put it together. I then connected my yellow garden hose water supply to the black hose pipe connector on the machine and turned the tap on. This is where I have ended up making myself soaking wet with cheap pressure washers in the past, and was thrilled to see that the connection held perfectly with the K5 Comfort Premium. My garden hose didn't ping off, or come loose to squirt water in my face.

Making a start on washing the patio

Finally, I was ready to give the pressure washer a go on the dirty patio.

I started with the lowest pressure washer setting – the "reduced pressure flat jet", selected by turning the nozzle on the end of the lance. This wetted the patio but didn't really cut through the grime, not the fault of the pressure washer I might add, but it did show just how tough the dirt on the patio was going to be to remove.

Next, I gave the "rotary nozzle" a go, which is like a circle of water and I guess the best setting to use when you have a patio cleaning accessory brush attached, that can be purchased separately. This was a little more powerful than the previous setting, but again not quite powerful enough to lift the sludge and algae off.

Deploying the detergent

The next symbol on the nozzle had bubbles on it and was the detergent setting. After twisting it to the bubbles and hitting the trigger, the product automatically flowed out in a flat jet that wasn't too powerful, or too gentle.

This enabled me to easily and quickly cover the already wet patio slabs with the universal detergent, which I could tell worked well as you could smell the detergent.

It's worth noting that this universal detergent is included with the K5 Comfort Premium, but you can also buy specific detergents that fix to the pressure washer for stone, wood, and cars.

Using the high pressure setting

When I finally got to it, the high-power setting really was a beast, pumping out an impressive 145 bar of pressure in a flat jet, and whipping any dirt, algae and other nasties right off the stone. The grime came off quickly too, leaving a clear line between the cleaned and uncleaned areas. Afterwards, I switched to a lower pressure setting to wash the dirty water off the slabs and finish the job.

The hose pipe connector on the pressure washer held firm throughout, and I didn't get squirted in the face with water once throughout the job, which was a win.

I did have a bit of difficulty when I fully uncoiled the grey pressure washer hose from the reel, as it was a little stiff, making it tricky to straighten out. This meant it did tangle with my yellow garden hose water supply a little. That said, I have yet to find a pressure washer that doesn't do this. Importantly, the hose was very robust and well-made with a rubber-like texture, and therefore unlikely to ever split with normal use.

Final thoughts

My patio is fairly large, and cleaning it with the K5 Comfort Premium pressure washer was actually very speedy, taking an hour maximum to do the whole thing. It was sparkling clean too, with no damage – plus even the dog decided it was so clean she went off to the grass to do her business there instead.

As someone who does not enjoy pressure washing, I did find it surprisingly satisfying blasting the jet at the patio and making nice clean lines in the dirt as I went. And while you will still get a mild arm ache at holding the lance, I did not get soaking wet and dirty for once (whoop), plus it was easy to pack away afterwards. I gave the K5 unit a clean by spraying it over on a low pressure setting, before reeling up the grey hose, tidying the electric cable away, and wheeling it back to the garage.

It was much faster to clean the patio with the Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium compared to the faffing around with models I've used in the past. This meant the body ache I usually feel was hugely reduced, and I saved far more time in setting it up, carrying out the job and also packing it away.

For me, this absolutely justified how the machine gets its name as the "comfort premium", because getting any pressure washing job done swiftly is a lot more comfortable (both physically and mentally) than spending hours and hours trying to finish the job, and clean yourself up afterwards.

Professional carpenters tend to have many types of saws in their workshop – but if you’re a keen DIYer or hobbyist woodworker, budget or space restrictions might mean you need to choose: track saw vs table saw.

There are similarities between these tools – both options are among the easiest ways to get straight cuts with a circular saw blade. However, you’ll also find important differences between the two, and using the most appropriate option will contribute to the safety, ease and success of your projects.

This article is here to help you choose the right type of saw for your projects: track saw or table saw. Read on for expert advice provided by a saw brand and a power tool retailer, plus some recommended tools of each type.

Table saws

A table saw has a fixed circular blade, which is mounted into a table that provides a worksurface to rest your workpiece (e.g. a wooden board). These tools incorporate a fence and mitre gauge to help guide your cuts.

“The blade sticks up through a flat tabletop surface and cuts material being passed across it – so instead of moving the saw through the material, you push the material through the blade,” says James Curran, head of D2C marketing at Evolution Power Tools. “

“Table saws can make long, straight, accurate cuts (rip cuts) in timber or in sheet materials like plywood, MDF or OSB. They produce consistent repeated cuts and handle crosscuts with a mitre gauge or sliding table.”

Shop table saws

Track saws

A track saw is a portable type of circular saw, mounted on an aluminium guide rail.

“Unlike a standard circular saw that is guided by hand, the track saw locks onto its rail to produce perfectly straight, splinter-free cuts,” says Curran.

“They can work on the floor, on a workbench or on-site, and you can use them to make long, clean, precise straight cuts, or make plunge cuts in the middle of a panel.”

In many cases, a standard circular saw can be converted into a track saw when used with a compatible track accessory.

Shop track saws

Which is better: track saw or table saw?

Precision and finish

Either a track saw or a table saw can cut precisely with a very good finish. Which is best largely comes down to the workpieces you’re cutting (as well as your cutting technique).

Table saws are particularly effective at neatly cutting smaller pieces – although you must take great care while guiding the workpiece towards the blade. Meanwhile, track saws are regarded as a good choice for making long cuts with clean edges. “Their anti‑splinter strips and fine‑tooth blades give very clean cuts with less tear-out, which makes them great for cutting kitchen worktops, plywood and laminate panels,” says Curran.

Winner: it depends what you’re cutting

Power and speed

If you have some repetitive woodworking tasks on your hands and you’d like to maximise the power and speed of cutting, then a table saw is likely your best bet.

“They are typically more powerful than track saws, and their larger motors and higher torque make them better for repeated heavy ripping,” says Curran.

“Table saws are faster and more consistent for cutting cabinetry or furniture, and for ripping long boards such as hardwoods or construction timber.”

Of course a good track saw will still be far quicker than alternatives such as a handheld saw or even an ordinary circular saw.

Winner: table saw

Ease of use

Using either a table saw or a track saw is achievable for many DIYers, but Dave Prime, procurement director at Power Tool World, believes that track saws are best for beginners. “They edge the table saw in terms of ease of use and safety, and they make it easier to get a higher quality finish to your work,” he says.

“Track saws require minimal set up, whereas a table saw will take more time to set up and adjust. There is also a safety element as the table saw has an exposed blade that requires guards and demands better technique.”

It’s worth bearing in mind that a table saw will take up far more space in your workshop (or shed!) than a track saw would. “Table saws are obviously bulkier and they’re usually designed to be the centrepiece of your workshop, whereas track saws are more portable,” says Prime.

Curran adds that with a table saw, “there’s worse risk when the saw is used incorrectly, due to the exposed blade”.

Winner: track saw

Versatility

With either a track saw or a table saw, the size and material of the blade arguably has a greater impact on versatility than the type of saw. The larger the blade is, the thicker the material it can cut, while multi-material blades open up the possibility of cutting materials such as steel and aluminium, as well as wood.

With that said, one type of saw is definitely superior to the other when it comes to cutting wide workpieces. “Track saws are the more versatile choice for sheet materials,” says Curran, “They’re perfect for cutting down large boards such as full 8 x 4 (2,440 x 1,220mm) sheets, which you wouldn’t be able to manoeuvre over a table saw without using extensions.”

Winner: track saw

Which saw should you choose?

“Buying the right saw is one of the more considered decisions you’ll make when kitting out your workspace or jobsite, and a lot of the time it comes down to specific applications,” says Prime. “Think carefully about the material you’re going to be cutting, and the types of cut you need to make before purchasing. Table saws are generally more suited to repeat cuts whereas track saws tend to be used for more unique cuts.”

Both track saws and table saws have their benefits. If you can spare the money and space, and if you do a lot of DIY or craft (especially carpentry), then it might be worthwhile having both of these tools handy for your projects.

If you’re only going to buy one of these types of saws, here are our recommendations:

Buy a track saw if…

• You’d prefer the most user-friendly option
• You’re low on storage space
• You want a tool that’s similar to a regular circular saw, but with better accuracy

Buy a table saw if…

• You want the best possible tool to use as the focal point of a workshop
• You want to cut lots of pieces quickly for major DIY or craft projects
• You’re aiming for an excellent finish with little need for sanding after cutting

FAQs

How to choose the right blade for a track saw or table saw?

Most track saws come with a standard circular saw blade, designed for cutting various wood products including softwoods, hardwoods, plywood and MDF, as well as certain other materials including plasterboard. If these are the types of materials you’ll be cutting, the standard blade should do the job – but for other materials, you may require a different type.

“We recommend using one of our Evolution multi‑material TCT blades, which cut materials including metals, composites and laminates, and wood with embedded nails, so you can move confidently between different tasks without constantly swapping blades,” says Curran.

For high-quality carpentry, you might also use a fine-tooth blade. “This type has a thinner curve and more teeth, so it causes less splinters,” Curran notes. “You’d use them to make furniture such as cabinets.”

Are track saws and table saws better than circular saws?

Track saws and table saws are somewhat similar to circular saws. They also use a circular blade, and they’re used for many of the same cutting tasks, especially in woodworking projects.

Typically, the advantage to a track saw or table saw is greater accuracy and a finer finish, compared to the results of cutting with a circular saw without a track. They are preferred by professionals, but they tend to come at a higher price and take up more storage space.

There are all sorts of cutting tools out there. If you're still in doubt over which type to use in your DIY projects, our jigsaw vs circular saw and best reciprocating saws guides could help get you on the right track.

Sharpening a drill bit is rarely a second thought for most DIYers. It's straight out of the case, into a chuck and start drilling. But drill bits are not indestructible and are prone to wear and tear like every other tool. Eventually, the crisp and clean drill holes you once admired are no longer up to scratch.

You’ll have to work harder, regardless of the type of drill bit you have. So it makes sense to give your drill bit a quick sharpen when needed to bring it back to life. Plus, it will save you the cost of replacing your bits regularly. Here you’ll find out what tools you’ll need and how to do it yourself.

Why you need to sharpen a drill bit

A new drill bit works better than a used one, so sharpening it will bring it back to its best. Leigh Start, MD of Metal Store, says, “A sharp drill bit cuts cleanly and efficiently, while a dull one forces you to apply more pressure, generates excess heat and is far more likely to wander off your mark.”

Paul McFadyen, MD of Metals4U, suggests regular sharpening is key: “Sharpening a drill bit is an essential part of drill maintenance, and improves both safety and performance of the tool.” He adds, “A blunt drill bit is less effective at drilling into material, particularly when drilling into metal and masonry, taking longer to drill to the required depth.”

Leigh Start explains what can happen with a blunt drill bit. “When drilling into metal specifically, a blunt bit can also work-harden the surface, making it even harder to cut through. Regular sharpening helps protect both your drill bits and the workpiece.”

He adds, “A dull bit also increases the risk of grabbing or snapping, particularly with smaller diameters, which can damage both the drill and the material being drilled.”

Shop these tools to sharpen a drill bit

Tools needed to sharpen a drill bit

There are a couple of options when sharpening a drill bit, explains McFadyen, “You can choose to sharpen a drill bit by hand or using an angle grinder or bench grinder.”

Sharpening by hand

Manually sharpening a drill bit only needs a few tools, as McFadyen shares, “When sharpening by hand, you will need a diamond hand file for most drill bits, particularly those made for masonry or metal drilling, which are typically made from harder materials.

He adds, “A fine file is also useful for softer drill bits or for minor finishing improvements.”

Using sharpening tools

“If you’re confident and have the tools, a bench or angle grinder can be used,” shares McFadyen. Start adds, “A bench grinder with a fine-grit wheel is the most common workshop tool for sharpening HSS twist bits.”

Start offers an alternative for DIYers: “For more consistent results - and a more accessible option for most DIYers - a drill-mounted sharpening jig or dedicated drill bit sharpener can help maintain the correct angles and keep both cutting edges symmetrical.”

PPE protection

Whether you're sharpening a drill by hand or using machinery, you need to wear protective gear, McFadyen says. “Eye protection is especially key, whilst gloves can also be worn when sharpening using power tools. A well-ventilated area and a dust mask are also recommended to avoid inhalation of dust.”

Sharpening a drill bit

There are two common methods for sharpening a drill: by hand or with a power tool. McFadyen points out, “There are key differences between the processes, but many of the techniques remain the same for both.”

Start adds, “Wood bits are usually easier to sharpen with a file or small stone, while masonry bits with carbide tips generally require a diamond wheel and are often replaced rather than sharpened in a home workshop.”

Get the right angle

McFadyen shares how to start the sharpening process: “Start by cleaning the drill bit and inspecting it to see exactly where it needs to be sharpened.” He adds, “When sharpening, take your time and frequently check the bit to ensure you are sharpening it at the correct angle.”

Ensuring you have the right angle is important. Start says, “For standard HSS twist bits used on metal, sharpening is typically done on a bench grinder by restoring the original 118° point angle while ensuring both cutting lips remain the same length.”

Start explains how, “The bit is lightly touched against the wheel and rotated to recreate the relief behind the cutting edge.” To help get the right angle, try an inexpensive tool like this Drill Bit Grinder Tool Manual from Amazon.

Alternatively, if you regularly need to sharpen drill bits, invest in a suitable machine, such as this Drill Doctor DD500X Twist Drill Bit Sharpener from Amazon.

Tips and techniques

If sharpening by hand, McFadyen says, “For the cutting edges, follow the curve of them with your file, moving it away from the edge in short controlled motions.” He continues, “Start with one edge, and then move onto the other once you are satisfied.”

Finally, “For the chisel, simply ensure that the tip is honed and clean. Do not aggressively sharpen the point, as this can shorten the life of the bit.”

If using a powered sharpener like a bench grinder, McFadyen shares the process: “The same principles apply for using powered grinders. Take things slowly and maintain a firm grip on the drill bit. Ensure the angle is correct and frequently check the bit every few seconds.”

He adds, “Importantly, when using a powered tool, you will need to control the heat generated from the grinding process. Keep a cup of water on hand and dip the bit into it every time you inspect it.”

Once sharpened, make sure to check your handiwork, shares McFadyen, “Before using the drill, visually inspect it to ensure that the edges are sharp and of equal length.” He adds, “Following this, gently test it in some soft scrap material and keep an eye out for signs that it is not drilling correctly, such as squealing, wandering or refusal to bite.”

FAQs

How often should I sharpen a drill bit?

Start says, “There's no fixed rule, but it's good practice to inspect your bits before use and after any tough job.” He continues, “Common signs that a bit needs sharpening include squealing during use, needing to apply excessive pressure, heat discolouration and ragged or imprecise holes.”

McFadyen shares, “Much will depend on how often you use your drill, what you use it for, and the quality of the drill bit itself.” He adds, “Drilling into wood, for example, will require less frequent sharpening than drilling into stainless steel or masonry.”

How much does a professional charge to sharpen a drill bit?

If you are not confident in sharpening a drill bit, you can take it to a professional. This is inexpensive for single drill bits, as McFadyen shares, “This can vary, but typically the price per drill bit will be under £5.”

And it can be a quick job as well, continues McFadyen, “Depending on availability and demand, professional sharpening can be done fairly quickly, and you will most likely be able to pick up your sharpened tools on the same day.” Search for local services to see what's available nearby.

How many times can a drill bit realistically be sharpened?

This can vary by type and use, but as a general rule, McFadyen says, “Drill bits can be sharpened frequently, but after a while it is advisable to replace rather than repair them.”

He adds, “The main restriction is the condition of the chisel head. If this becomes broken or damaged, or is filed too thin, the bit will need to be replaced.” Start explains what happens each time a bit is sharpened: “Each sharpening removes a small amount of material, so the limiting factor is typically the overall length rather than the condition of the steel itself.”

He adds that the quality also affects sharpening: “Cheaper bits often don’t respond as well to resharpening, which is another reason why investing in higher-quality drill bits can pay off over time.”

Try these drill bit sets to replace your old ones: DEWALT Titanium Nitride Coated, 21-Piece Titanium Pilot Point Drill Bit Set, fischer 561649 D-U Hex Universal Drill Bit Set and this DEWALT Masonry Drill Bit Set (all available from Amazon).

Drill bits come in many guises and can handle many DIY tasks, including drilling into walls and drilling into metal. If you are tackling any of these tasks or taking on a house renovation project, make sure your drill bits are sharp and fit for purpose.

I've seen a rise in the trend of robot vacuums, and I wanted to test the next generation and give a robot mop and vacuum a go to see if they're worth the hype.

I got the newly released eufy Omni C28 to test the latest model of robot mops and I tested it out to see how it performed on every type of flooring in my house.

I reveal the results below and give my opinion on whether it's worth the cost and clarify some misconceptions that I and maybe you have had about them.

How the robot mop was tested

I decided to try the eufy Omni C28 on every type of flooring in my house to see how it performs on each one.

This focused on wooden flooring in my lounge, limestone tiles in my kitchen, the carpet in the living room and the terracotta tiles in the drawing room.

With each of these, I wanted to test the Omni C28 on its most powerful function on the 'Deep' cleaning function, the 'High' water level and the 'Max' suction power. I also used the same washing-up liquid.

I also tried some other tests to really put it through its paces, and I can reveal the results for each flooring type.

Alongside the cleaning performance, I was also interested in how the robot handled navigation and maintenance. The C28 uses iPath 2.0 navigation, which maps the room layout and helps it avoid obstacles, even in darker areas or under furniture.

Testing the robot on wooden floors

The lounge uses basic wooden flooring, which was a good starting ground to test the eufy Omni C28.

With the mapping feature, it was able to assess the room size, surface type and where it could, and couldn't clean.

With the vacuum at the front and the mop behind it, the robot first pulled up dust and debris before mopping. The roller mop system – which applies around 1kg of downward pressure while cleaning – continuously washes itself as it goes, meaning it’s not just pushing dirty water around the floor.

This was a surprise as, despite its size, it performed well compared to my larger Dyson vacuum to give a very good finish. Dare I say, I couldn't have done it better myself.

Testing the robot on limestone tiles

I wanted to give a significantly tougher test, so I took it to the kitchen next. This Italian tumbled limestone flooring proved much tougher to clean for the eufy Omni C28.

Due to the bumpy surface, some stains were tougher to clean than others and this room definitely needed a couple of goes to achieve a full clean. However, I did deliberately leave some trickier stains.

On the first run the vinegar was spread slightly and the beetroot stain only partially lifted. However, the self-cleaning roller mop kept washing itself during the process, which meant the second cleaning pass was far more effective. After another run, both stains were removed.

This is where the automation really helped. Since the robot can return to its docking station to wash the mop, refill water and empty dust automatically, it’s designed to clean areas multiple times without you needing to intervene.

Testing the C28 on terracotta tiles

sq ftIt should be pointed out that after cleaning both the lounge and kitchen, the eufy Omni C28 did need to clean itself and reload its water. This was after 300 sqft of cleaning.

The next room was the largest of the lot, with the drawing room and an adjacent connecting room giving the C28 a workout. These open-plan style rooms are really where robot vacuums/mops come in handy.

The result in this room was the best yet with the flat surface glimmering by the end, and even though I set the function to the highest water level, it was a real bonus that the floor was not too wet, meaning it dried almost instantly, a problem I often get when mopping.

If I was being really picky some water marks were left behind but that is me being very harsh.

Testing the robot on carpet

,Finally, I moved the robot onto the living room carpet, which is a thick, deep-pile carpet and therefore a good test.

This is where the 15,000 Pa suction power came into its own. The robot automatically recognised the change in flooring and lifted out of mopping mode so the mop wasn’t used on the carpet.

It also navigated easily underneath sofas, footstools and chairs – areas that often get missed in regular cleaning.

Another useful feature here is the DuoSpiral detangling brushes, which are designed to prevent hair and fur from wrapping around the rollers. For households with pets or long hair, this could save a fair bit of maintenance.

Despite working through several rooms, the robot was also very quiet. At times I barely noticed it running.

By the end, the entire ground floor of my house had been cleaned in around 45 minutes, and the robot only needed to recharge and service itself once.

FAQs

Does the eufy Omni C28 need much maintenance?

One of the main selling points of the Omni C28 is that most of the maintenance is handled automatically by the docking station. The all-in-one base station empties the dustbin, washes the mop roller, refills the clean water tank and collects dirty water.

However, you will still need to occasionally empty the wastewater tank, buy new dustbins, refill the clean water tank and clean the filters and brushes every so often to keep the robot running efficiently.

How loud is the eufy Omni C28 when cleaning?

The Omni C28 is relatively quiet compared with traditional upright vacuums. The maximum level it can reach is 67 dBs.

Does the robot work in low-light conditions?

The Omni C28 uses its iPath 2.0 navigation system, which allows it to detect obstacles and map rooms even in low light or under furniture. This means it can clean effectively at night or in darker rooms without needing the lights on.

Can you control the robot remotely?

Yes. The robot connects to the eufy Clean app, which allows you to start or stop cleaning cycles, adjust suction or water levels and set cleaning schedules remotely.

You can also use the app to see the robot’s room mapping and direct it to specific areas if you only want one room cleaned.

Will the eufy Omni C28 fall down the stairs?

I did also test the eufy Omni C28 upstairs and I did worry that it could fall down the stairs. However, it will scan if it is near an edge and stop itself everytime to prevent it falling an damaging itself.

Can the eufy Omni C28 go up slopes?

It can go up slopes as high as 45 degrees, however it cannot go up edges that are larger than an inch.

Is the eufy Omni C28 worth it?

If you’re looking for a robot vacuum that can both vacuum and mop with minimal maintenance, the eufy Omni C28 Robot Vacuum and Mop is one of the more compelling mid-range options currently available.

It also performs strongly for a robot in this price bracket. With 15,000Pa suction, it has enough power to lift dust, pet hair and debris from both hard floors and carpets. The HydroJet roller mop continuously cleans itself while scrubbing floors, helping prevent the streaking that some robot mops struggle with.

Originally launched at around £649, it is currently available for about £499 during Amazon’s Spring Deal promotions, making it considerably more affordable than many robot vacuums with similar automation features.

If like us, it feels to you like the green shoots of spring are finally starting to flourish, we suggest you get your running shoes at the ready – but not for the reasons you might think.

While you may well be limbering up for some exercise, it's also time to get ready to race to your nearest Lidl store. The brand has launched a 12 week long gardening event, with middle aisle deals arriving in store every Thursday.

The first week kicks off with everything you'll need to start tidying up your garden after winter. I round up the weekly homes and gardens deals for our newsletter, and predict these 5 items will sell out fast. So, if a new garden landscaping idea is on your agenda, make sure you don't miss out on these middle aisle bargains.

1. Banish dirt and debris with this Parkside Pressure Washer

With a full range of handy gardening products on offer at Lidl from Thursday 5 March, from tools to scarify your lawn, through to decking oil and brushes to apply it, you'll be hard-pushed not to find something you need for gardening this spring.

Justifying adding a pressure washer to your garden shed kit is pretty easy. With a range of uses from cleaning patios to washing cars, once you've tried one you'll understand their appeal.

It's why it's likely this Parkside Pressure Washer from Lidl won't be in stores for long. At just £99.99, it comes with everything you need to get started on your patio makeover, and is £65 cheaper than this Draper Pressure Washer equivalent at Toolstation.

But, before you forge ahead with your cleaning, make sure you follow what our gardening experts recommend for cleaning decking with a pressure washer. Or, if you're planning on using your pressure washer to clean your outside windows, it could be worth picking up this Parkside Facade and Glass Cleaner Attachment while it's in store.

Although on a personal note, if I had a self build with lots of architectural glazing, I'd be snapping up a model like this Robot Window Cleaner from Amazon to do the dirty work for me.

2. Get your lawn looking as fresh as a daisy

March is the perfect time to start prepping your lawn for spring, and one of the best times to scarify your lawn – autumn being the other key season when it's recommended.

The Parkside Scarifier/Aerator from Lidl will be on offer for £89.99, and even cheaper at £79.99 if you have the Lidl app. With easily interchangeable rollers, it's cheaper, and more powerful than this VonHaus Lawn Scarifier/Aerator/Rake Electric from Amazon.

It's classed as suitable for lawns up to 600m2, and while autumn is considered the prime time when looking at when to aerate a lawn, if you missed the September window spring is considered the next best time.

3. Keep your trees and hedges at bay

Next up our shopping list is the Parkside Extendable Tree Pruner with Saw. Overgrown trees and hedges are one of the areas that can turn into potential neighbour disputes. While there isn't a legal height for hedges between neighbours. there are guidelines in place for unruly and untrimmed boundaries. Avoiding them is therefore key, which is why pruning tools with extra length that avoid the need for ladders can be handy.

This VonHaus Telescopic Tree Pruner & Lopper only extends slightly further and is currently £27.99 on Amazon compared to Lidl's £14.99 offer.

4. Keep your health and borders in check with this weed puller

If the thought of gardening makes your knees creak, then this next middle aisle deal seems like a no-brainer for your body – and your budget. The Parkside Weed Puller will be available for just £5.99.

While it's perfect for lawns or flowerbeds, if you're looking for a tool to remove weeds from patios, you could try this Vonhaus Weed Remover from Amazon instead, as it's suitable for use on hard surfaces including patios, wood and driveways.

5. Go easy on your knees with this padded kneeling mat

And last, but certainly not least and one item you'll be glad of throughout the seasons is the Parkside Kneeling Pad. Available in black or green, and with an integrated carrying handle, it will help protect your knees when tidying up your garden planters, or lawn edging ideas.

At an extremely affordable £3.99, this Livivo Extra Thick Kneeling Pad on Amazon has similar dimensions, but is priced at £9.99.

Ready to shop? Make sure you also check out the latest garden trends for 2026 before you start working on your garden or patio, and if you also have a new decking area in your sights, make sure you avoid these common decking mistakes.

If you’re doing your own tiling project, don’t forget to use tile spacers. These inexpensive tools slot in between tiles during the laying process, ensuring your grout joints are even and that you get a neat finish.

Tiny, plastic tile spacers can cost £5 or less for a pack of 1,000, but you shouldn’t just purchase the first product you spot. Differences in size and type will affect a spacer’s suitability for a particular tiling task.

We asked tiling experts how to choose the right tile spacers for your project – and how to use them effectively when tiling a wall.

What are tile spacers for?

Whether you're tiling a kitchen wall or tiling a bathroom floor, tile spacers are a small tiling tool, used in large quantities during the tile laying process to ensure the grout gap between tiles is consistently at the desired width.

Whichever of the many tile laying patterns you choose, from straight lay to herringbone, suitable tile spacers can be used to create a uniform, professional-looking effect.

“I couldn’t live without tile spacers,” says Kevin Bailey, owner and director of Tiler Required?, a Buckinghamshire-based tiling company. “They do a good job of holding tiles level and straight, with a consistent grout gap.”

During laying, spacers also perform the essential role of limiting movement in the tiles, as your tile adhesive sets them in place. “Wherever you’re butting tiles up together, spacers ensure they won’t decouple from the substrate if the wall expands or contracts,” says Kevin.

Achieving the correct grout joints in a tiled area is not just an aesthetic goal. In some cases, BSI guidance stipulates that grout joints between tiles must fall within a specific range of widths.

“The grout joints exist for a purpose,” says Nathan Rees, Commercial Sales Representative of RUBI UK, a manufacturer of tiler spacers and other tiling products. “They are there to allow some flexibility or movement in the wall or floor, and the spacer size determines the width of the joint.”

Spacers can be placed into the corners where tiles meet in a pattern, or sticking out between the faces of two tiles, depending on your preferred method.

Common sizes and types of tile spacers

There are three main types of tile spacers: cross spacers, T-shaped spacers and wedge spacers.

• Cross spacers: "These are the standard type," says Nathan Rees. "They’re available in sizes from 1 to 10mm in increments of one millimetre and they’re used for your standard tiling set out with tiles in a grid."
• T-spacers: "These have three legs and also come in various sizes," explains Nathan. "They are used for certain laying patterns, especially a brick bond effect where the corners of the tiles form a ‘T’ shape rather than a cross."
• Spacer wedge: "These can be looked upon as an adjustable-size spacer, with the joint width depending on how far you push a wedge in," adds Nathan. "They help with laying irregularly shaped tiles, and they come in 5mm or 7.5mm sizes, both of which taper to zero. You’d use them for slight adjustments rather than standard jobs."

Another important point of difference is the length of a spacer’s legs. “You can get ones with short legs or ones with long legs,” Kevin Bailey notes. “I use long because they go a bit further along the joint, which helps to make sure it’s straight and consistent.”

Most tile spacers are made by a handful of brands. “I usually use RUBI spacers, which are easy to find at shops like Topps Tiles, although I occasionally use Vitrex spacers (available from Screwfix) instead, if their spacers are more convenient to get hold of,” says Kevin.

“There isn’t much difference between makes, but you do get used to using what you use – some spacers feel a bit more brittle and snap more easily than others," he adds.

Shop tile spacers for your tiling project