When it's time to hang that designer wallpaper you’ve had your eye on for ages, there’s guaranteed to be one obstacle with the potential to spoil a professional-looking finish – a power socket – and usually more than one.

Every home has them, so there’s no getting away from the fact that you will need to cut into your precious wallpaper when trying to paper around them.

To ensure a successful cut, you will need the right wallpaper tools and techniques, and a slow, methodical approach. Trying to rush through the process with a blunt tool will only lead to rough cuts, unsightly gaps, and the distinct possibility you’ll have to start over again. Follow this guide to make sure that doesn't happen.

Tools you’ll need to wallpaper around sockets

The right tools are essential for success when wallpapering around sockets. Nischal Pomu, Director at Platinum Paints, points out the two main factors you need to take into account.

"The main thing is to have sharp tools and take your time rather than trying to force cuts quickly,” he says, listing the following essential tools:

• Sharp snap knife - try this wolfcraft Metal Snap-Off Blade Knife from Amazon
• Wallpaper scissors - try these Harris Seriously Good Paperhanging Scissors from Amazon
• Screwdrivers
• Wallpaper smoother
• Seam roller – like this Stanley Dynagrip Soft Seam Roller from Amazon
• Spirit level or laser level
• Steel trimming edge/wallpaper guide
• Clean cloth and sponge – try the Spontex Decorators Sponge from Amazon
• Good quality adhesive suitable for the wallpaper type

How to wallpaper around sockets

1. Turn off the electricity and loosen faceplate

The key step is to switch off the electricity before you start any work. Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb, says. “I would recommend using a voltage tester afterwards to fully ensure that the socket is dead.” Alternatively, plug in a phone charger or a lamp to check if the socket is live.

Once you are sure the power is no longer live, “carefully unscrew the socket so that it is a few millimetres away from the wall," says Mark.

2. Hang the wallpaper

Now you can start to hang wallpaper. I always make sure the strip of wallpaper fully covers a socket to ensure a clean finish. Measure up before you start wallpapering to ensure you get a drop in the right place. Paste the paper, or wall, and hang. “Smooth out the wallpaper as normal," says Mark, "and allow it to fully cover the socket’s area.”

3. Locate socket and cut wallpaper

Once the paper is hung, the next step is to locate the socket. “Gently feel for the edges of the socket through the wallpaper,” says Mark, making sure you locate the middle of the socket and its corners.

Using a sharp knife, "cut an X shape diagonally from corner to corner across the centre of the socket," he suggests.

Alternatively, cut from the middle to the edges using wallpaper scissors. This is less likely to mark the face of the socket and might be a good idea if you have a metallic or painted finish.

4. Trim the excess

With your cuts in place, you will have four flaps of wallpaper. Get a pair of wallpaper scissors and start trimming. “Carefully trim the flaps back towards the edge of the socket, making sure to leave enough paper to neatly tuck behind the faceplate," says Mark, recommending you leave around 5mm to be sure.

5. Finish up

With the wallpaper trimmed, it's time to finish the job. “Use a wallpaper smoother to flatten the wallpaper around the socket," says Mark, "making sure to remove any air bubbles.”

However, for safety reasons, be careful not to squeeze any excess paste behind the faceplate. Give it a wipe if needed, re-tighten the faceplate and wipe down the wall and socket with a dry microfibre cloth such as these MR.SIGA Microfiber Cleaning Cloths from Amazon. Check there’s no excess paste left before you consider using the socket again.

Common mistakes to avoid when wallpapering around sockets

1. Overcutting

There is nothing more annoying than cutting away too much wallpaper and having to start again. "The biggest mistake DIYers make is overcutting too early," warns Nischal Pomu. "If you remove too much wallpaper around the socket, gaps can remain visible permanently. It’s always better to trim smaller amounts gradually," he says to prevent it from happening.

2. Using blunt blades

“I would recommend always using a sharp blade, as even the highest quality wallpaper can snag or tear if the knife isn’t incredibly sharp," advises Mark Irving. “Change the blade every few cuts, if possible," he adds, "to ensure that you are accurate with every try.”

3. Using stiff wallpaper

If you are working in awkward areas with stiff wallpaper, it's more prone to tearing, which can be hard to hide. A simple trick is to use a hairdryer, suggests Mark Irving, “Warming up any stiff wallpaper using a hairdryer can help the paper to flex around any awkward spaces.”

4. Ending up with uneven patterns

Hanging patterned wallpaper adds another level of difficulty to wallpapering around a socket. Get it wrong, and you’ll waste wallpaper and take more time. “For patterned wallpaper, it helps to dry-position the sheet beforehand so important parts of the pattern do not end awkwardly through sockets or light switches,” advises Nischal Pomu. This will help the wallpaper line up with adjacent sheets.

FAQs

Should I cover sockets before wallpapering?

“If the electricity has been safely isolated and the faceplate slightly loosened, you generally don’t need to fully wrap or cover the socket itself,” says Nischal Pomu.

However, it's never a bad idea to protect sockets against paste or moisture, especially if you're using traditional wallpaper paste. “Although a small amount of paste isn’t particularly a problem," says Mark Irving, "any moisture that gets into the plug holes or sockets could be very dangerous.”

There are a couple of options you can use to protect a socket. “Use painter’s tape over any openings," says Mark, noting how, "it is also possible to use cling film lightly wrapped around the socket, which will help to keep everything protected.”

Another way to prevent paste from seeping behind a loose faceplate, says Mark, :"is to carefully use a microfibre cloth behind a loose faceplate to catch any excess.”

The most simple and preventative method is to avoid overloading the wallpaper with paste around sockets in the first place. ”Instead, use a thin coat to reduce any mess," he advises.

How long before I can switch the electricity back on?

Electrical outlets and moisture don’t mix well. However, Nischal Pomu says you can switch the electricity back on almost immediately. “In most cases, once the wallpaper has been fitted, trimmed cleanly, and any obvious moisture around the socket has been wiped away properly, the electricity can usually be switched back on safely.

“You generally do not need to wait for the wallpaper paste to fully dry overnight before restoring power," he adds, "providing the socket area itself is clean, dry, and not saturated with adhesive.”

However, if there is excessive paste or moisture around the socket, it's best to leave it for a few hours. “If there’s any uncertainty around moisture entering the electrical fitting, it’s always safer to allow additional drying time or seek advice from a qualified electrician before switching the power back on," confirms Nischal.

Personally, I leave it for at least three or four hours to be safe. Even if I’ve covered a socket, I remove the covering and wipe it dry, but still leave it for an hour to be on the safe side.

If you don’t need the socket because you aren't living in your property while renovating or extending it, you can of course leave it longer. I always err on the side of caution when working with electricity, after having a few unwanted incidents.

When wallpapering around sockets, you need to get your cuts right. But getting this wrong isn’t the only wallpapering mistakes you can make. Try these wallpaper hacks to help avoid issues when wallpapering your home.

If you're asking should you wallpaper over damp, the most obvious and simple answer is no. Why would you? If you have a recurring damp issue, then wallpapering over it will rarely solve the problem. However, it's not always that straightforward.

Covering a constant source of damp will of course only make the problem worse. However, if you have dealt with the issue, or it's only an infrequent visitor and you know why, then knowing how to wallpaper the damp area correctly could be successful.

Here, we explore the reasons for wallpapering over damp areas, and the specialist products and tools you’ll need to ensure your efforts aren't in vain.

Why you shouldn't wallpaper over damp

Wallpapering directly over damp surfaces is generally not recommended, as Nischal Pomu, director at Platinum Paints, notes. “In most cases, I would say no, not until the cause of the damp has been properly identified and resolved. Wallpapering over active damp usually only hides the issue temporarily.”

George Edwards, managing director of Timberwise, shares the issues that can arise if you do wallpaper over damp.

“You will be masking a problem that will only get worse," he warns. “Moisture will be trapped behind the paper, and mould will grow in the dark between the paper and the walls.” This can lead to serious issues, especially if the damp is constant.

“Within weeks or months, you’ll see patches bleeding through and may notice a musty smell,” explains George. "You will have to strip the damaged wallpaper, and you will be back to square one, except it will be worse.”

“Any ongoing rising damp, penetrating damp, or constant moisture problems should always be fixed before decorating,” agrees Nischal.

Reasons why wallpapering over damp could be an option

Once damp has seeped into walls and ceilings, it can cause cracks, defects and discolouration, and this may make wallpapering seem like a good idea rather than painting over damp.

“A lot of homeowners wallpaper over damp mainly for cosmetic reasons," agrees Nischal Pomu. "Damp staining, hairline cracking, and uneven surfaces can make a room look tired very quickly, so wallpaper is sometimes seen as a quicker way to improve appearance without major repair work.”

However, wallpapering over damp is typically a temporary fix while the issue is being investigated. “The problem is that wallpaper rarely solves damp itself; it usually only hides the symptoms for a period of time," notes Nischal.

That said, “there are situations where wallpapering can still work once the wall has stabilised and dried out,” he continues. “For example, an old chimney breast may leave historic staining after the original issue has already been repaired. In those cases, after proper stain blocking and preparation, wallpaper can sometimes be used successfully.”

Wallpapering can also be an inexpensive option compared to removing any plaster, dealing with the issue and getting the wall/ceiling re-plastered. Keeping your house temperature at the right level can also be a way to help prevent the damp returning once the main problem has been resolved.

Shop these tools to wallpaper over damp

Best wallpaper for damp walls

If you have got walls that have suffered from damp, or are currently suffering from it, you certainly don’t want to use standard wallpaper when papering over damp. Alisdair Simpson, managing director at Retford Wallcoverings Limited explains why.

“Standard pulp-based wallpapers are generally unsuitable for damp-affected walls, as continual moisture exposure can cause the material to break down, often leading to staining, mould growth and adhesion failure.”

If you are going to wallpaper over damp areas, you will need to use a specific type of wallpaper to address the issue. “Specialist systems such as Wallrock Dampstop Thermic are designed to help block the appearance of penetrating damp and associated staining," explains Alisdair, "whilst creating a durable surface suitable for further decoration using paste-the-wall lining papers on top.

“When using Wallrock Dampstop Thermic, it is particularly important that dimensionally stable PTW wallcoverings are used, as traditional wallpapers may be more susceptible to movement and adhesion issues over the non-porous metallic surface.”

However, once the Wallrock system is in place, “standard wallpaper can be used if you’ve covered the area with damp-proof foil and/or thermal lining paper,” says Alasdair.

Wallpapering over damp with Wallrock Dampstop

If you are going to wallpaper over damp with the Wallrock Dampstop system, there is a specific process to follow advises Alisdair Simpson.

“Wallrock Dampstop Thermic is applied directly to the wall using Wallrock Dampstop Thermic Adhesive, with the grey polypropylene surface facing the wall.” But before you start, "the wall should first be cleaned, repaired and primed where necessary," notes Alisdair.

“Once dry, the metallic surface can either be left exposed to help reflect heat back into the room – making it particularly useful behind radiators,” he shares. However, the more common option is to cover it.

“Overhang with dimensionally stable PTW lining papers such as this Wallrock Fibreliner from Amazon, insulating wallcoverings such as this Wallrock Thermal Liner from Amazon, or paste the wall decorative wallpaper,” suggests Alasdair.

A key component of a successful job is the right adhesive. “For best performance, Wallrock Dampstop Thermic Adhesive should continue to be used for all subsequent papers applied on top," he notes.

However, “as with any damp-related issue, the underlying cause of the moisture should always be properly identified and resolved alongside any cosmetic treatment,” Alisdair concludes.

FAQs

Will PVA seal a damp wall?

PVA glue is often suggested as a cost-effective sealant, but in damp conditions, it's not a wise idea, explains Nischal Pomu. “PVA is not really designed to solve damp problems. In fact, sealing moisture into a wall can sometimes make issues worse over time because the wall cannot breathe properly.”

“PVA breaks down on contact with damp, becomes sticky and then causes plaster and paint to fail,” adds George Edwards.

Can I use a dehumidifier to help remove damp from walls?

The best dehumidifiers can help combat damp confirms Nischal Pomu. “A dehumidifier can definitely help reduce moisture levels within a room and speed up drying conditions, especially after condensation or minor humidity-related issues.”

However, they are not the solution to persistent damp problems, he continues. “If the damp is being caused by an ongoing issue such as rising damp, leaking gutters, failed pointing, plumbing leaks, or penetrating moisture, a dehumidifier alone will not fully solve the problem.

“It may improve the symptoms temporarily, but the source still needs to be repaired properly for a long-term solution," says Nischal.

Damp can strike anywhere and spoil walls and ceilings in any room. Make sure you know exactly how to treat damp in older houses before you start on any wallpapering project. Then, once the correct base layer has been applied, make sure you avoid these wallpapering mistakes when applying the top and final wallpaper layer.

Despite its uninspiring name and haphazard appearance, there is much more to OSB than meets the eye. It is in fact a versatile timber-based board suitable for a wide range of DIY and home renovation projects.

It's commonly used as an alternative to plywood and, in some cases, as a plasterboard alternative, adding an industrial aesthetic to interior design projects. While it could be argued that it's less visually appealing, its composition still makes it a very attractive option for many DIY builds where aesthetics aren’t the number one priority.

Here, we delve into where it can be used, its benefits and drawbacks, and how much you can expect to pay.

What does OSB stand for?

OSB stands for Oriented Strand Board. Paul Kerr, building specialist at Beatsons, explains its makeup. “It's basically a wood panel made by heat pressing wood strands with glue.”

Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb, explains what makes it appropriate for use in a variety of DIY projects. “The boards are strong and durable, which means they are commonly used for construction projects.”

Shop OSB board and tools to protect it

Popular uses for OSB

OSB is a popular choice for a lot of DIY and home renovation projects, but it's typically used inside the home explains Mark Irving. “OSB is most commonly used in internal construction projects, as it is incredibly strong and durable. Typically, it will be used for wall sheathing, roofing, loft boarding and site hoarding.

“OSB can also be used for subfloors, partition walls, and shelving" he adds, "as it provides a solid, stable surface.”

OSB is rarely used for work outside the home notes Paul Kerr, “as the boards are usually not weatherproof, and unless treated specifically, should not be used for external projects.”

If however the boards are protected or treated, they can be used on a range of projects, continues Mark. “OSB can be suitable for large-scale building projects such as timber-frame construction, sheds and DIY renovations.”

And, while it's often covered over, it can also be left exposed says Paul. “You sometimes see the odd interior design project using OSB for rustic shelving and tables,” he agrees. It’s also sometimes left bare on walls to create a more industrial aesthetic.

Pros and cons of OSB

Mark Irving reveals the key benefits and drawbacks of OSB:

What sizes does it come in and how much does OSB cost?

As well as its strength and durability, there’s another reason why it's so attractive for DIYers and that's the cost. However, the price is determined by several factors, including size, thickness, and grade.

“OSB is one of the more affordable options for construction, with prices ranging between £15 and £35 per sheet,” says Mark Irving.

“The industry standard is 2400mm x 1200mm, and the thickness varies from 9mm up to 18mm," expands Paul Kerr. “The thinnest OSBs usually start from around £10, and usually don't sell for more than £25.”

As an example of price, this OSB 3 OSB 2440mm x 1220mm x 9mm from B&Q sells for just under £20. The smallest size sells for around £11. This 18mm OSB 3 OSB 2440mm x 1220mm x 18mm from B&Q sells for £24.

The cost of OSB is also why it's considered an attractive alternative to plywood in certain situations, continues Mark.

“Typically, OSB is cheaper, which makes it the ideal choice for structural applications where the appearance of the project is less important than the budget or the performance.“

“It's usually about 20% cheaper than a plywood board," adds Paul, "which is the reason why it's taken over as the most popular board for internal framing work.”

FAQs

Should I use nails or screws to fit OSB?

Both nails and screws can be used to install OSB. Which one you use can depend on the project. If installing OSB on internal walls, ceilings, and floors, screws are a popular choice because they are much easier to remove if you need to replace any OSB. Screws will also pull OSB tight against any frame and hold well.

These Single Thread Countersunk Pozi Screws from Toolstation will do the job. The screw length should be approximately twice the OSB thickness. If you are using 18mm OSB, 40mm or 60mm screws will suffice.

Nails are quicker to install, especially with a nail gun, and are often used for fixing to exterior framing as they offer more give.

If using nails, galvanised or stainless-steel ring-shank nails are recommended. Galvanised nails such as these Tacwise Extra Galvanised Framing Nails from Amazon are good for general DIY projects, as long as they aren’t regularly exposed to moisture.

Can I paint or tile directly onto OSB?

Yes to painting, no to tiling.

OSB is porous, which means it absorbs a lot of liquid. If you are going to paint OSB, you will need to start with a primer/sealer, such as this Zinsser B-I-N from Screwfix, to seal the surface and create a stable base for subsequent coats of paint.

When it comes to tiling, it's important to know that the board will absorb the moisture if you apply the tile adhesive directly to the board, causing it to fail. Tiles can fall off walls or start to shift and crack. However, it can be used as a substrate for tiles, provided you install a cement backer board (such as this HardieBacker 6mm Backerboard from B&Q) over the OSB.

You’ll also need to make sure that the OSB is secure and doesn’t flex. This is more applicable to floors than walls or ceilings. If it does, you’ll end up with adhesion issues.

How long does OSB last?

It depends very much on its usage. If installed correctly and protected, e.g., with wall sheathing, it can last for 20+ years. However, if left unprotected and exposed, it will depend on the environment. Internally, it can last for years, as long as it is not exposed to moisture.

If used externally and left exposed to the elements, OSB will be lucky to last a year. However, if well protected, with a sealant such as Siramico Coatings Liquid Rubber Roof Coating from Amazon, it can easily last five years. To extend its lifespan, make sure to seal the edges and reapply any sealant/paint every 3-5 years.

OSB is a multi-talented board; not only can it be used on its own, but it is also part of SIPs (structural insulated panels), which are a popular product for building extensions and homes.

Is skimming over wallpaper wise? While it might not always seem like the most obvious choice, and sometimes it's not, remember that with any DIY or home improvement project, there’s rarely just one perfect solution. Sometimes, skimming over wallpaper really can be the best option.

However, getting your preparation correct is crucial to success. Skip past this stage, and it's almost pointless plastering a wall. The plaster will fail to adhere to the surface, and it won’t be long before it starts to crack and fall away from the wall or ceiling.

Here, the pros reveal when it's a wise choice to skim over wallpaper, and how to prep well to ensure your efforts aren't in vain.

Should you skim over wallpaper?

The simple answer is you can do it, but it's rarely the recommended option. It's more of a last resort.

Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements, shares his thoughts. “You can, but honestly, I wouldn’t recommend it most of the time. After 15 years doing this kind of work, I’ve seen people try it again and again – and I’ve seen it fail just as often.

“Plaster requires a stable, porous surface to adhere properly, which wallpaper doesn’t provide," he explains. This means a poor skim coat can lead to more work later. “If it’s not done correctly, you might have to redo everything in six months," warns Angelo.

Shop these tools for skimming over wallpaper

Reasons when skimming over wallpaper is a good idea

While skimming over wallpaper isn’t a first choice, there are reasons why you might need to. “If you’ve got only one layer of paper, it’s stuck down well, and the edges aren’t lifting, and if the customer’s desperate for a quick fix, skimming over wallpaper can make sense,” says Angelo Patrizi, also citing the following additional reasons why you might find it a suitable option.

• To keep the wall intact – “Usually it’s about what’s underneath," says Angelo. "In older homes, the wallpaper sometimes holds the wall together, and stripping it can turn into a nightmare."
• To get rid of textures and imperfections – Skimming over wallpaper can also saves the hassle of removing textured wallpaper and treating any imperfections in a wall. Prep properly, and all these issues can disappear behind a skim of plaster.
• It can be quicker and easier – If you have stubborn wallpaper that will take a lot of steaming and scraping to remove the wallpaper, then a skim coat is a much quicker and easier alternative.

Can I skim over any type of wallpaper?

Certain types of wallpaper work much better than others for being hidden underneath a skim coat. “Heavy lining paper is easiest as it gives a decent grip for the plaster. Standard printed wallpaper works if it’s properly glued down,” shares Angelo Patrizi.

However, other types of wallpaper are to be avoided, he warns. “Vinyl wallpaper is a lost cause; plaster just won’t stick to its non-porous surface. Anaglypta or any heavy textured wallpaper – forget it. The texture shows through, adhesion is unreliable, and the finished look is awful once painted.”

Steps for prepping wallpaper for skimming

If you decide to go ahead and skim over wallpaper, you need to get your preparation right. The more time spent on preparation, the better the outcome. Scott Godfrey, construction trade consultant for Black Hammer, shares where to start.

“Start by proving the wallpaper is genuinely sound. Pick an inconspicuous corner or seam and try to lift it. If it wants to come away with light effort, it needs stripping rather than skimming,” he says.

However, if it is a suitable candidate for skimming. Follow these steps for the best end result.

1. Secure loose sections

“Walk the wall and press along joints and overlaps," says Scott. "Any loose seam should be re-adhered and flattened before going further. Next, cut out any blisters and soft bubbles back to firm edges so you're not trapping a void under plaster.”

2. Clean surface

Next you need to ensure the surface is completely clean. “Get rid of any surface contamination like grease or polish residue with a suitable degreaser and allow it to dry," advises Scott. "Lightly sand the surface to knock back any sheen and high spots, as a slightly dulled surface is easier to bond to than a slick one.”

3. Prime surface

This is the key step to providing a proper bonding surface so the plaster does not soak in, re-wet the paste, or slide off.

“Use a problem-surface sealer or grit-bonding primer (such as this Sika Febond Blue Grit Plasterers Grip Coat from Screwfix) that is rated for difficult backgrounds like wallpaper," explains Scott. "The aim is to lock down the paper face and paste, and also give the skim coat a consistent key.”

4. Add skim coat

After priming, you then need to reinforce any weak lines. "Bed scrim tape over wallpaper seams and any cracks in the substrate that are visible or suspected" recommends Scott, "then apply plaster in two thin coats, rather than trying to cover everything in one heavy pass.

“Keeping coats tight reduces the amount of water sitting on the wall and reduces the load while the plaster is green, which is when failure often starts,” he explains.

To apply the skim coat, use a textured roller, such as the ROLLINGDOG 9 Inch Drywall Skimming Roller from Amazon, and a skimming blade.

5 . Dry naturally

“Finally, allow steady drying with gentle ventilation rather than forcing heat," advises Scott. "Rapid drying can encourage cracking, especially where wallpaper joints sit beneath the finish,” he warns.

Following this final step is important if you want to ensure a secure finish of skim to wallpaper.

FAQs

Will it be as good a finish as skimming a bare wall?

“It will never be as stable as skimming over a properly prepped wall," says Angelo Patrizi, "but if you do everything right, it can last years. However, it’s always weaker than starting afresh.”

Walls aren’t the only surface where you can skim over wallpaper; wallpapered ceilings can be tackled in the same way, but proceed with caution, says Angelo.

“Ceilings are a whole different story; if the bond fails there, gravity takes over, and you end up with a disaster," he warns. “I’m much more cautious about skimming ceilings than walls. On walls, you’ve got a little more wiggle room.

“Any movement or damp issue behind the skim on walls or ceilings will cause trouble sooner or later,” he adds, so it's vital to make sure any prep is done thoroughly.

What can go wrong?

In the short term, the skim can start to fail almost immediately, shares Angelo Patrizi. “The usual problem is the skim coming away from the wallpaper as it dries, because the paper shifted or wasn’t stuck down properly.” This can be dangerous and messy, particularly on a skimmed ceiling.

“Ceilings are risky; sections can fall, and that’s a nightmare to clean up," advises Angelo, adding the other issues that can occur include, “seeing bubbles appear from trapped moisture, and hollow spots where the plaster never got a good grip.”

Skimming can also trap moisture, leading to long-term issues, including damp patches that can cause mould growth and staining. Eventually, this can lead to plaster failure.

“If you ever need to redo the wall, you're also dealing with a fused mess of plaster and paper," says Angelo. "It’s much harder to strip back. Skipping steps at the start usually means triple the work later,” he concludes.

Skimming over wallpaper will leave you with a smooth, smart wall, ideal for a variety of decorating options, but you will still need to prep the plaster before painting or re-wallpapering. Check our guides on wallpapering over new plaster and painting new plaster to get it right.

Ask me a few years ago and I’d have probably turned my nose up at the idea of wallpapering. It would have conjured up flashbacks of my nan’s dated ‘Eternal Beau’-inspired chintzy borders, or my gran’s bold-but-questionable devotion to psychedelic 1970s florals. For a long time, wallpaper was firmly filed under “decor best left in the past”.

But then I moved into a Victorian house and realised that wallpaper might actually be the decorating equivalent of a good concealer. Uneven walls or dodgy plasterwork? Covered. Wonky chimney breast? Distracted from. Instant results? Absolutely!

I've since had several attempts at wallpapering through my home – with mixed results. So, in the interests of saving you from peeling seams, mismatched patterns and paste-related regret, here are the wallpapering mistakes I’ve learned the hard way, as well as some expert tips on how to resolve them.

1. Not using enough paste

Wallpapering our narrow hallway was quite the challenge due to our steep staircase, but we were happy with our paper choice and results, at least for a while. Then we started to notice that it was peeling in a couple of places at the edges, but couldn’t work out why.

It’s a common issue, according to Ulams Mazulis, co-owner of Fancy Walls. “Many first-time wallpaper installers run into this problem,” he says. “It often means there was not enough glue on the wallpaper or the wall. To fix it, lift the peeling edge, use a small brush to add more wallpaper glue underneath, press the wallpaper back down, and smooth it with a wallpaper roller.”

We used traditional wallpaper, but this problem can also occur with peel-and-stick variations. “This typically indicates that the wall was not cleaned well enough before installation, leaving dust and residue behind,” says Ulams. “But again, you can buy wallpaper glue and apply it to the peeling area, just like with traditional wallpaper. Another option is to use thin double-sided tape around the edge that is coming loose.”

2. I didn’t cover every wall straight away

This is a particular regret in my guest bedroom, where I picked out a lovely Mid-century Scion Khadi design in grey, but only used it in the room’s alcoves. While the paper wasn’t cheap, (which probably explains why I was so timid at the time), I regret not covering all my walls for a stronger design statement. Especially now that the wallpaper has been discontinued.

"We definitely see defaulting to a single feature wall or perhaps a couple of alcoves as a wallpapering mistake," says Sophie Smith, director and co-founder of The Living House.

"People are now much braver with their interior choices, wallpapering every wall, even papering the ceiling, which creates a cosy, cocooning feel and brings real character to a space. In fact, a feature wall in a long narrow room can actually work against you," she adds, "making the wall feel like it's coming toward you, and the room feel smaller as a result."

3. Drying washing on radiators with wallpaper behind them

Full disclosure – this is an issue my best friend had rather than myself, as my decorator had already had some stern words for me as he wallpapered behind radiators. My big takeaway from his lecture was never to dry washing on a radiator with wallpaper behind it, as the moisture and steam created is bound to cause issues.

But that’s not the only possible culprit.

"Bubbling behind the radiator often happens because the radiator’s heat slowly dries out the wallpaper glue," says Ulams Mazulis. "As the glue dries, the wallpaper can stretch or expand, which causes these bubbles."

Wallpapering in the summer months when the radiators are turned off can give more time for the glue to adhere more strongly, but if the advice comes too late for you and you've spotted bubbles appearing, you can try the following method to fix it.

Start by gently smoothing the bubble with a wallpaper smoother. "Move slowly from the edge of the bubble toward the centre to push the air out," says Ulams Mazulis. "If the bubble stays after smoothing, use a needle to make a tiny pinhole in the centre, then gently press the air out through the hole."

4. The small-scale pattern I chose looks too fussy

Now, this is a mistake I definitely won’t make again, and I’ve been much bolder with my more recent wallpaper ideas. But why do small-scale patterns fail in many spaces?

"Many people assume a small room needs a small print, but a large scale pattern can actually trick the eye into making a space feel bigger," says Sophie Smith. "It's also worth thinking about what other patterns you will be pairing the wallpaper with, such as your soft furnishings, light shades, cushions and accessories."

Fussy patterns with too many colours in them can actually be quite tricky to mix and match with soft furnishings and paint colours. So something with a bolder print and more limited palette can make life easier – especially in the long run, when you want to change up other accessories.

5. Excess paste has left dirty marks on my ceiling

As first-time wallpaperers, we definitely encountered this issue. And I can attest that if you don’t deal with wiping up the excess paste, you’ll be staring up with regret at marks on your ceiling for years, rather than admiring your lovely wallpaper pattern.

It’s best to tackle the issue as you’re decorating. "To clean excess paste from your ceiling, use hot water and a microfibre cloth," says Ulams Mazulis. "Usually, wiping the area will fix the problem. If that does not work, you, or the person who installed the wallpaper, may need to return and repaint the spot."

6. Poor pattern placement is distracting

Not getting your pattern matching right is one of those details you can’t un-see once you’ve spotted it. A poorly positioned wallpaper repeat can turn an otherwise beautiful design into something oddly distracting – whether that’s a flower awkwardly sliced in two or a poor animal or bird missing its head altogether.

"Hanging patterned wallpaper requires thinking about where the motifs start and stop," explains Sophie. "If it's a design featuring animals or flowers, you really don't want the motif chopped in half at the top of the wall where it will be the first thing people notice."

"Take the time to plan your drops before you begin, positioning the pattern so that the most prominent motifs fall in the most visible and flattering parts of the wall."

If you're nervous, go for a more forgiving patterned design, like this B&Q GoodHome Nivosa plaster-effect embossed wallpaper in teal that I've used in my hallway. It's been part of the range for years and we were impressed by the quality – it feels just as thick as some very expensive lookalikes, and hides a multitude of sins.

FAQ

Why is the wallpaper peeling on my new-build walls?

If you’ve recently wallpapered your new-build home, you might see gaps emerging between your lengths of wallpaper despite your best efforts. But this won’t necessarily be due to your pasting skills.

"If you’ve just moved into a new build, the building materials will still adjust to their new environment for up to 12 months," says interior design expert, Hannah Prescott of Diamond Interiors. "Wood, concrete, and plaster need about 12 months to dry and settle properly, so if you paint or apply wallpaper prematurely, you could end up dealing with cracks and gaps as the materials adjust to temperature changes and settle in."

Our guide to wallpapering new plaster can help ensure nothing goes wrong.

Now we've dealt with any potential disasters and hopefully renewed your confidence in wallpapering, brush up on some wallpapering hacks that will help you get a pro finish, and make sure you invest in the best wallpaper tools to make the job eaier.

If you want to add texture, interest and character to your home, installing one of the many types of wall panelling is a fantastic way to do it. Not only is it relatively easy to put up (especially if you buy pre-made panels), but it can also be done affordably.

When it comes to choosing a style that suits your interior design, there are plenty of options to consider – whether it’s contemporary slatted panels or rustic tongue-and-groove.

To help you find the perfect match for your home, we’ve rounded up some of the most popular types of wall panelling below.

1. Shaker panelling

"Shaker wall panels are one of the most traditional and popular styles of panelling, made up of simple rectangular or square-shaped frames," says Summa Costandi, co-founder at Panels by Sofia.

Whether it’s used to showcase a period property’s roots or as a living room panelling idea to add character to a new build, Summa emphasises how versatile Shaker panels can be. While they are usually bought as a kit for you to install, pre-made options are also available, and they can be fitted at either full or half height.

2. Beadboard (or bead and butt) panelling

Ideal for country homes and period properties, beadboard panelling (also known as bead and butt) features vertical V-grooves with a decorative bead in the centre – hence the name.

"It really plays into the 'cottagecore' trend that we all love right now, creating a cosy backdrop to highlight traditional features. That said, beaded panelling is also a great way to add some classic charm to a typically more modern home," says Summa Costandi.

3. Tongue and groove panelling

Tongue and groove panels have a similar design to beadboard, just without the bead in the centre. There are lots of groove dimensions available, and Summa Costandi recommends choosing a wider design if you’re looking to open up your space and make it appear larger.

"The classic style creates a clean and seamless finish; it’s also extremely versatile. Tongue and groove panels can be styled in almost every room throughout the home to design a warm and welcoming cottage feel," she says.

This style can work particularly well as a bathroom panelling idea, for example.

4. Wainscotting panelling

Wainscoting is the application of panelling to the lower half of a wall, with paint or wallpaper used on the upper section. This design technique transforms the perceived proportions of a room and can help protect walls in busy areas, so is a good option for your hallway panelling or staircase panelling.

James Bryant, founder of Cut My, says, "Visually, it helps anchor a room and can make spaces such as hallways, dining rooms or bathrooms feel more polished and finished."

5. Board and batten panelling

Simple, clean and modern, board and batten panelling is a stylish way to introduce subtle character into your home, according to James Bryant. This type of panelling consists of wide boards arranged in a grid, with narrow strips layered over the joints.

"It has a neat, architectural look that adds structure to a wall without feeling overly decorative. In a home, it can make a room feel more considered and tailored, particularly in spaces that otherwise feel plain or boxy."

6. Shiplap panelling

If your dream home has a laid-back, rustic vibe, shiplap panelling is a fantastic choice which is popular in farmhouse-style homes and coastal living rooms. It's suitable for both interiors and exteriors, and is commonly used on sheds.

"Shiplap panelling is very similar to tongue and groove visually, however, the joining method is slightly different. Traditionally, shiplap uses rebated edges that overlap to create texture and shadowed lines," explains Summa Crostindi.

7. Raised panelling

Elegant and formal, this traditional-style panelling is one of the easiest ways to make your space look polished and refined. This classic design is ideally suited to period properties but can also add depth and character to a newer home.

James Bryant says, "Raised panelling is a more traditional style, where the centre of each panel sits slightly proud of the surrounding frame. The overall effect is more classic and decorative than flat or contemporary panelling styles."

8. Slatted panelling

"Slatted panelling is all about those repeated lines, which give walls texture, rhythm and a more design-led look. It has a very contemporary feel and is great for adding warmth without overwhelming the space," says James Bryant.

He adds that this modern panelling can also enhance the perceived height of ceilings and walls, helping to add a sense of visual space to a room. Whether you install it as a feature wall or an accent section as a DIY wall panelling idea, it will add a stylish touch to any area.

9. Picture frame moulding

Picture frame moulding is another popular type of panelling and is usually formed of rectangles or squares. There are plenty of budget-friendly peel-and-stick kits available (like this peel and stick one from Amazon), making it a fast and effective way to revive boring surfaces.

Whether you paint it the same colour as your wall or a playful contrasting shade, this design will add depth, drama, and interest, mimicking that traditional style.

“Installing panelling is a simple and relatively quick way to give [your home's] features a refresh, and there are so many design options to choose from," concludes Summa Costandi.

For more design inspiration, see how one writer transformed her chimney breast using a wall panelling kit.

Tile size is the sort of decision that sounds straightforward until you're standing in a showroom holding two samples that both look completely right. Then you get home, hold them up against the wall, and suddenly neither does.

The truth is, tile size does more heavy lifting than most people realise. It shapes the atmosphere of a room, affects how practical the space feels to live in, and can make a modest bathroom feel spa-like or a generous kitchen feel cluttered. So where do you start if you want to get this right?

We've pulled together the advice that actually helps: what to consider first, where tile size really matters, how different tiling patterns interact with scale, and how to mix formats without it looking accidental.

What should you consider first when choosing tile size?

Start with function, not aesthetics. Damla Turgut, founder at Otto Tiles, is clear on this: "The first thing I always ask is where the tile will be used and what role it needs to play in the space. Tile size should be guided by function as much as aesthetics."

A large open floor needs something durable and continuous. A splashback, alcove or feature wall can afford to be more decorative. That's where smaller or medium formats come into their own, introducing pattern and texture without overwhelming the space.

Once you've nailed the function, consider how your choice of tile makes a room feel. As Grazzie Wilson, head of creative at Ca' Pietra, explains: "Tile size quietly shapes the entire atmosphere in a way people do not always expect." She says that larger formats tend to create calm, with fewer grout lines, less visual interruption and a surface that lets the eye rest. Smaller tiles introduce texture and intricacy that rewards a closer look. .

So before you fall for a tile in the showroom, ask two questions: what does this surface need to do? And how do I want this room to feel?

Does room size affect which tile size you should choose?

The short answer is yes, but it's not quite as simple as big room equals big tile. As Damla Turgut puts it: "Larger spaces often benefit from bigger tiles, while smaller areas can handle more intricate formats." The logic is sound, but it's a starting point, not a rule.

Take a compact bathroom. Instinct might say go small, but a large-format tile with fewer grout lines can actually make a modest space feel bigger, not more cramped. The key is proportion. If the tile suits the scale of the room, it can be transformative. If it overwhelms it, you'll know.

Lesley Taylor, founder at Baked Tiles, brings it back to practicality: "Tile size affects how practical the space feels once it is lived in." A smaller room with lots of small tiles means a lot of grout to clean. Worth thinking about before you commit to anything too intricate.

The bottom line? Room size sets the parameters but it doesn't make the decision for you.

Shop small format tiles

Which tile size suits which room?

Every room has its own demands. Here's how to think about tile size room by room:

Kitchens

Kitchens tend to reward larger formats on the floor. A continuous surface is visually calmer and better suited to the scale of most modern kitchens. Mid-sized tiles work well on splashbacks, where you want a bit more visual interest without the surface becoming too busy.

As Damla Turgut notes, "in areas such as splashbacks, alcoves or feature walls, the tile can be more decorative. That's where medium or smaller formats can work beautifully, as they allow you to introduce pattern, texture or rhythm without overwhelming the space."

Bathrooms

The bathroom is where smaller tiles have historically earned their reputation, and for good reason. Mosaic and metro formats add grip, handle curves and awkward corners more gracefully, and bring a sense of detail that suits an intimate space. That said, large-format tiles in a bathroom are increasingly popular, and in a well-proportioned room they can look genuinely considered.

Hallways

Hallways are hard-working spaces and the tile needs to earn its keep. Mid-sized formats tend to perform best here, navigating doorways and changes in direction without excessive cutting. Larger tiles can work in a long, straight hallway but tend to struggle the moment the layout gets complicated.

Bedrooms and living rooms

Living room tiles and bedroom tiles get to play by different rules. Without the grip requirements, steam and heavy footfall of kitchens and bathrooms, you can be a bit more creative.

In these spaces, larger formats create a calm, unfussy base that lets the rest of the room do the talking without the floor competing for attention. Smaller or patterned tiles, meanwhile, come into their own as a feature element. Behind a headboard in a bedroom, they bring the kind of detail that wallpaper offers but with considerably more staying power. In a living room, a patterned tile used to define a seating area or fireplace surround can anchor the space in a way that feels intentional rather than decorative for decoration's sake.

Outdoor spaces

Scale matters outside too. Larger porcelain formats are popular for patios and garden rooms, creating a seamless indoor-outdoor feel that works especially well when the same tile runs through from inside. Smaller formats offer more flexibility on uneven ground but do mean more grout lines to maintain.

Can you mix large and small tiles in the same space?

Yes, but with intention. Mixing tile sizes is one of those things that looks effortless when it's done well and immediately obvious when it isn't. The difference is usually whether each tile has been given a clear role.

Lesley Taylor is practical on this point: "When you are mixing tile sizes, the most important thing is to give each one a clear role within the space so it feels designed rather than random. You might use larger tiles to ground the room and then introduce smaller formats as a feature or to highlight a specific area, but keeping the colours or finishes linked will help everything sit together."

That last point is worth underlining. Contrast in size can work beautifully. Contrast in size, colour and finish simultaneously is where things start to feel busy. Pick one thing to play with and keep the rest considered.

The other thing to get right is the grout. Matching grout colour across different tile sizes helps unify a mixed scheme. Contrasting grout on every surface pulls it apart.

Shop large format tiles

FAQs

Do large-format tiles cost more to install?

Usually, yes, though the tile itself isn't the only reason. The real cost is in the preparation. Grazzie Wilson is clear-eyed about this: "With larger formats, there is also a practical layer to consider, as they do ask for a higher level of precision during installation; the substrate needs to be exceptionally flat, handling becomes more complex, and specialist levelling systems are often required to achieve that seamless finish, which can have an impact on labour. It is not a drawback, but it does mean the result relies heavily on skilled hands."

Damla Turgut adds that the consequences of getting it wrong are visible: "The adhesive coverage must be very precise to avoid issues such as hollow spots or uneven edges, and installers often need specialist tools such as suction lifters and larger cutting equipment to handle them safely."

Smaller tiles are generally more forgiving during installation, particularly in rooms where the walls or floors aren't perfectly straight. That flexibility can translate into lower labour costs – as you can often tile floors and walls yourself – though a very intricate small-tile layout brings its own time demands.

Does tile size affect resale value?

Less than you might think, and more than you'd hope. Tile size alone certainly won't make or break a house sale, but the overall impression a tiled room creates absolutely will.

Grazzie Wilson puts it well: "When it comes to resale, we find it is rarely about chasing a particular tile size and more about creating a space that feels balanced and thoughtfully put together, although there is a quiet confidence in well-proportioned tiles that suit the scale of the room, as they tend to appeal more universally than anything that feels overly busy or overly stark."

In other words, a bathroom tiled in a format that suits the room will always feel more appealing to a buyer than one where the scale feels slightly off, however hard it is to articulate why. Buyers may not be able to name what's wrong. They'll just know something is.

Ready to take the next step? Our guides to where to buy floor tiles and how many tiles do you need will help you move from decision to delivery, without the maths headache or the mystery of why you always seem to end up with too many or too few.

Getting rid of moss on your roof is more important than you might think. Not only is this fuzzy growth unsightly, but it can also wreak havoc on your home if left unchecked – reducing energy efficiency, blocking drainage and damaging the tiles.

While some cases of moss can be treated on a DIY basis (such as removing moss from lawns), sometimes it's best to leave it to the experts – otherwise, you could do more harm than good.

To find out how to get rid of it, and when you should hand the job over to a professional, keep reading. I spoke with two roofing experts to hear their advice, and we’ve also explored what could happen if you leave it too long.

How do I get rid of moss on my roof?

If you're dealing with minor moss on newer tiles, DIY removal is possible. According to Alex Morrisey, managing director of Best Roofers, the best method in this case is to use a soft-bristle brush on the affected areas.

You can also buy biocidal sprays to kill it at the root and reduce the chances of it returning (which is also used to treat moss on driveways and patios). Once you spray the area, the moss will eventually dry out, and rainfall will wash it away.

Alex warns that if your roof is more than 15 to 20 years old and has widespread moss growth, you will need to call in a professional. They will clean your roof, apply a preventative treatment, and check for underlying problems.

You should also avoid using pressure washers and stiff brushes, which can damage your roof and create “far bigger problems than the moss itself.”

Paull Newsome, Commercial Director of Vanguard Waterproofing Systems Ltd, warns, "I’d discourage DIY roof access where possible. In UK workplace data, falls from height remain the most common cause of fatal injury, and guidance sources summarising HSE/RIDDOR data also highlight ladders as a major contributor to falls-from-height injuries."

Is it worth having moss removed from a roof?

It might be tempting to turn a blind eye, but moss on your roof can develop into serious problems if left untreated, so it’s always important to remove it.

Alex Morrisey compares moss to a sponge in the way it absorbs and holds rainwater against your tiles. This can cause them to weaken, crack, become porous or lift, leaving your home less protected from heat loss.

“When tiles absorb water repeatedly, they weaken. Once you start getting gaps, cracks, or displaced tiles, you lose the thermal integrity of the roof. Heat escapes, cold air gets in, and your boiler ends up compensating for that," he explains.

What time of year is best to remove moss from a roof?

You can remove moss from your roof at any time of the year, but Paul Caruana, founder of IPP, says that spring or summer is best. The drier weather makes removal easier, and it's also when moss grows most actively.

How to stop moss growing on your roof

To prevent moss from growing on your roof in the first place, Paull Newsome recommends the following steps:

• Trim back overhanging trees to increase sunlight and airflow
• Keep gutters/valleys clear so water doesn’t back up and keep lower areas wet
• Consider zinc or copper strips at ridge level. Rainfall washes trace metal ions down the roof which helps inhibit moss/lichen over time
• Avoid pressure washing in most cases; it can damage finishes and drive water where it shouldn’t

While the moss on your roof probably never crosses your mind, it's definitely worth keeping it in check. “Catching it early is always cheaper than dealing with the consequences later,” concludes Alex Morrisey.

For more expert advice, read about the spring maintenance tasks you should leave to professionals and roof leak repair costs.

Look up – chances are, what you see is a flat expanse of white paint and nothing else. It's a shame, because the ceiling is the one surface in the home that most of us never think about, even though it does more for a space than most of us realise. So take this as your sign to finally reassess your ceiling ideas and consider starting with one of the most impressive options of all: the coffered ceiling.

Of all the types of ceiling you could choose, a coffered ceiling is definitely one of the most striking. It has been a staple feature of the grandest rooms in history and is now finding its way back into homes of all kinds – from sweeping Georgian townhouses to clean-lined contemporary apartments.

So what exactly is a coffered ceiling? What does it do for a room that nothing else can? And how do you know if it's right for your home?

What is a coffered ceiling?

A coffered ceiling is a ceiling featuring a series of recessed panels – known as 'coffers' – set within a grid of intersecting beams. The result is a structured, geometric pattern that sits above a room like an architectural frame.

The word "coffer" itself derives from the ancient Greek for 'basket' – a nod to the sunken, box-like quality of each individual panel. While coffered ceilings have graced some of the most celebrated buildings in history, from the Pantheon in Rome to the reading rooms of English country houses, it is in everyday homes where they can feel most impactful.

A quick note on what a coffered ceiling isn't – it's not a tray ceiling (which is just one central recessed section) and it's not exposed beams, which are structural first, decorative second.

What does a coffered ceiling do for a room?

"Coffered ceilings are often specified where a client wants to add architectural character without structural intervention," explains Zaeem Chaudhary, Director of AC Design Solutions. "In open plan living spaces particularly, they define zones and add depth without the need for partition walls."

One of the most common interior design challenges is how to give a sprawling space a sense of structure and intimacy without chopping it up with walls or overcrowding it with furniture. A coffered ceiling solves that problem from above by carving out a dining area or drawing a boundary around a seating zone without eating into floorspace.

"They can also make a property feel more expensive," points out Zaeem. And in a new build home or a recently renovated space, where every other surface can feel interchangeable, these kinds of details are what separates a house that feels ‘designed’ from one that feels generic.

Which rooms suit a coffered ceiling best?

"Coffered ceilings tend to work best in larger living spaces, such as living rooms, dining rooms or open plan kitchens, where the ceiling can become part of the architecture of the room," says Theo Jones, Director at FYNN. Home offices and libraries are another natural fit, as there's something about the combination of bookshelves and a coffered ceiling that feels entirely right.

Entrance halls and double-height hallways, meanwhile, are perhaps the most underrated location of all. A coffered ceiling in these rooms creates instant impact and will set the tone for everything that follows.

Where this style of ceiling tends to struggle is in smaller, lower rooms. Bedrooms with standard ceiling heights, small bathrooms and narrow corridors are all risky territory. "The pattern can start to look awkward," warns Theo, and the beams risk feeling heavy and enclosing rather than elegant.

What ceiling height do you need for a coffered ceiling?

The widely cited rule of thumb is that you need a minimum ceiling height of nine feet, roughly 2.7 metres, for a coffered ceiling to work comfortably. Below that, the downward projection of the beams begins to eat into headspace, and what should feel architectural starts to feel oppressive instead.

The deeper the coffers, the more generous the ceiling height needs to be. In a more modest space, shallower coffers with slimmer beams will always be the smarter choice.

Proportions matter just as much as height. "Beams that are too shallow create ugly shadow lines rather than clean recessed panels, while coffers that are too wide for the room quickly become overwhelming," warns Zaeem Chaudhary. When in doubt, let the room guide you. Sketch the ceiling to scale, divide it into a grid, and err on the side of simplicity. Fewer, cleaner coffers will always look more considered than an overly ambitious grid that the room can't quite carry.

Contemporary or period homes — which works better?

The coffered ceiling's association with period properties runs so deep that it's easy to assume that is where they belong. But both architects push back on this.

"In many cases they actually work better in contemporary homes," says Theo Jones, Director at FYNN. "Most period properties simply weren't grand enough to historically have coffered ceilings, so adding one can feel slightly out of place. Conversely, in contemporary spaces they can reinforce the geometry of the architecture."

Zaeem Chaudhary of AC Design Solutions agrees. "The key is proportion and simplicity," he says. "A modern coffered ceiling with clean shadow lines and minimal moulding detail feels current rather than traditional." Strip away the elaborate detailing and what remains is essentially a geometric grid of light and shadow – a thoroughly modern proposition.

Whether you're going traditional or contemporary, it all comes down to execution. A traditional coffered ceiling leans into the detail, with deep beams, intricate mouldings and elaborate painted finishes. A contemporary one does the opposite: shallower profiles, clean lines and a single colour throughout. The only real mistake is trying to do both at once, so pick a direction and commit to it.

FAQs

Does material choice matter?

Yes, and more than you might think. "The material choice affects not just budget but longevity and finish quality," says Zaeem Chaudhary. According to Zaeem, plaster is the premium option but it comes at a price. MDF is the most popular middle-ground choice, as it's cost-effective and capable of a very convincing finish, though it requires careful detailing at the joints to avoid visible movement over time. Solid wood sits somewhere between the two, as it's beautiful and characterful, but susceptible to warping in rooms with fluctuating temperatures.

How do you finish a coffered ceiling?

Paint is the simplest and most transformative tool at your disposal. An all-white coffered ceiling is the classic, as it’s guaranteed to make a room feel taller and brighter. For something with more drama, consider painting the recessed panels in a contrasting colour or a deeper shade than the beams, which throws the geometry of the ceiling into sharper relief.

Do coffered ceilings add value to a home?

When done well, almost certainly. "In higher-end London residential projects we see clients specifically requesting them as a premium finish," says Zaeem Chaudhary. The risk of feeling dated, he adds, comes not from the feature itself but from poor execution (over-detailed mouldings, coffers that are too deep or too wide for the room, or a finish that feels heavy rather than considered). A well-proportioned coffered ceiling, by contrast, tends to outlive other interior design trends precisely because it has never really been one.

How much does a coffered ceiling cost?

Cost varies considerably depending on room size, material choice and the complexity of the design. As a rough guide, a professionally installed MDF coffered ceiling in an average-sized living room might start from around £2,000–£3,000, while a bespoke plaster installation in a larger or more architecturally ambitious space can run to significantly more.

DIY coffered ceiling kits are available and can bring costs down considerably, though the quality of finish, and the ease of installation, varies widely. As with most things in interior design, you tend to get what you pay for.

Another way to finish your ceiling is installing coving. This classic moulding runs along the join between wall and ceiling, adding a touch of elegance without the complexity of a full coffered installation.

If you're creating a new structural opening in your home, whether through building an extension or creating a more open-plan interior, you'll likely hear the term RSJ costs.

An RSJ (rolled steel joist) is a steel beam that is essential to the structural integrity of your home. Designed to support any load from above – be this wall, ceiling or another storey – it has an I or H-shaped cross section.

However, unlike some elements of your build, where you can estimate costs online, looking for RSJ costs on the internet is certainly not the advised route to take. While it's easy to assume you know the length of the opening and can therefore find a beam that fits, it's a far more complex calculation that can lead to serious consequences if you get it wrong.

What is the correct term for an RSJ?

In case you're wondering if this article applies to you when your builder or architect discuss steel beams, it's worth understanding that despite "RSJ" being a popular term in the trade, it's not actually the correct one.

"Many homeowners still refer to steel beams as “RSJs”, but while the term is widely used, it’s actually outdated," explains James Atkinson, associate at Design4Structures. "In the industry, beams are now more accurately referred to as Universal Beams (UBs), Universal Columns (UCs) or hollow sections, depending on their shape and structural performance."

If this was news to you, as it was me, then don't worry, you'll still likely hear all three acronyms being used, so just be sure whoever is pricing them up understands what it is you need.

What factors influence RSJ costs?

While it's easy to head to a builder's merchant and get prices for other building materials used in ceilings and walls, such as timber and types of plasterboard – most of which will be priced based on size, why can't you do the same with RSJ costs once you know the length and width of beam that you need?

Dave Bendon, founder and director of D.Bendon Construction explains.

"If you are removing a load-bearing wall, opening up, or creating a new structural opening that needs an RSJ to bear the load from above, you will need the involvement of a building inspector and a structural engineer," he explains.

"The calculations are complex and not something even an experienced DIYer can work out," he warns. "While an experienced or competent builder may get a feel for what's needed, it's never something you should specify without professional involvement."

"Sizing a steel beam is not a matter of approximation," agrees James Atkinson. "When a wall is removed, the loads it was carrying - from floors, roofs or walls above, must be safely redirected. That requires proper structural calculations, an understanding of how loads travel through a building (known as load paths), and compliance with Building Regulations and current design codes.

"The beam must not only be strong enough to carry the weight, but also stable and suitable for the wider structure of the property," he continues. "It’s about ensuring long-term safety and performance, not just making the opening work on day one."

"Several key factors influence the size of a steel beam. The most obvious is what it is supporting," expands James. "A heavy masonry wall or additional storey generates far greater load than a lightweight timber floor. The span, meaning the clear distance the beam must bridge without support, is also critical. Generally, the longer the span, the larger or deeper the beam required.

"Strength is only part of the equation though," he warns. "Beams must also be checked for serviceability, in other words, how much they will bend (deflection) and whether vibration could be noticeable. Even if a beam won’t fail structurally, excessive movement can lead to cracked plaster, uneven floors or long-term maintenance issues.

"In UK domestic projects, the most commonly used sections are Universal Beams (UBs), which are deeper and efficient at reducing deflections; Universal Columns (UCs), which are more compact in depth and can sometimes sit within a floor zone; and closed Rectangular or Square Hollow Sections (RHS and SHS), which perform better where twisting forces may occur," James says. "Each has advantages depending on the structural demands and practical constraints of the space."

What impacts RSJ costs the most?

"Span and load are usually the primary cost drivers," explains James. "As a general rule, the longer the beam and the more weight it needs to support, the larger and heavier the section required, which increases material cost.

"However, other constraints can influence price. If the beam must fit within a restricted depth, for example, to achieve a flush ceiling, a heavier or alternative section may be needed, increasing cost.

"Fabrication requirements, such as welded plates, stiffeners or connection details to support floors and walls, also add to the overall price. Availability is another factor," he adds, "as standard stock sections are typically more economical than uncommon or bespoke sizes.

"Ultimately, the most cost-effective solution is one that balances structural performance, practicality and buildability from the outset," says James.

Additional build costs

However, it's not just an RSJ cost that you need to account for when pricing up this element of the build.

"There are also all the additional works that need to take place to install the RSJ," explains Dave Bendon. "These include, but aren't limited to, the opening up of the wall, padstones for the RSJ to sit on, the labour involved to get the beam in place and then the reinstatement of the wall around the new RSJ."

Add to this structural engineer fees and the potential cost of an independent building inspector, and your RSJ costs will be far more than just the cost of manufacturing steel.

Having experienced RSJ installation myself when renovating and extending, I can also vouch for the fact that it can be a labour and machinery intensive job, often requiring a crane to hoist the beams into place. All of which can see costs escalate.

Or, like me, you may need extra hands on deck when the RSJs are installed. On two occasions when I needed them, there wasn't sufficient access for a crane, so it involved an army of strong welshmen to get them into place. A nerve-wrecking experience I don't think any of us were keen to repeat again.

The breadth of RSJ costs

In order to explain why it's impossible to give accurate figures for RSJ costs without understanding all of the calculation, experienced quantity surveyor Tim Phillips says as the breadth of pricing can vary so much, it's impossible to put an average price per metre on the cost of an RSJ.

"You can expect to pay anything from £100 to £300 per metre for the steel, between £500 to £2,000 for labour, and as the install increases in complexity, you could end up with the cost of a single RSJ reaching £5,000," says Tim.

The lesson? Don't rely on prices online that haven't been calculated using structural engineer calculations, building inspector involvement and the advice of an experienced builder who has installed them before.

RSJ online calculators — Yes or no?

So what of the online RSJ cost calculators you may have seen during your research into how much an extension costs, or even how much a house costs. Are these an accurate representation of RSJ costs?

"Online calculators can appear helpful because they simplify the process," says James Atkinson, "however, they typically only consider basic inputs such as span and assumed loads. Structural alterations are rarely that straightforward.

"Removing a wall affects more than just the opening. The supporting walls must be capable of taking new concentrated loads. The foundations beneath them must be suitable for the revised load paths. The overall stability of the building must not be compromised," he expands.

"Connections and detailing also play a significant role. These wider considerations cannot be properly assessed by a simple online tool. Relying solely on a calculator, without a full structural review, introduces unnecessary risk."

It's simply not a risk worth taking, agrees Dave Bendon. "Installing the wrong RSJ is a safety hazard, and if you don't follow the recommended advice for getting the beams calculated correctly, you could find yourself facing problems with your house insurance if something does go wrong in the future and you need to make a claim."

If you're planning on knocking down internal walls, it always pays to get professionals involved. Or, if you're thinking about adding, rather than removing walls, find out when a internal stud or solid wall is the better option, and how to build a stud wall with a door.

Green roofs offer a variety of benefits, from aesthetic to environmental. Sedum and moss roofs create a living patchwork of colours, providing a soft-textured carpet that changes with the seasons. They help insulate your home, reduce rainwater runoff and support local wildlife.

However, while green roofs are often described as low-maintenance, this does not mean that they are maintenance-free. Neglect can quickly lead to bare patches, invasive weeds, blocked drains and even damage to the waterproofing beneath the roof.

Our step-by-step guide to green roof maintenance, packed with advice from industry experts, will help you keep your green roof looking great and performing at its best.

1. The first maintenance step is getting the design right

“Although green roofs generally need very little maintenance, neglect can lead to all sorts of issues," warns Dusty Gedge, international ambassador for the European Federation of Green Roof and Wall Associations. “All too often designers or customers opt for the lightest and the thinnest systems which actually require more care.”

Instead, Dusty advises homeowners to install deeper, heavier systems that can survive short droughts and support a greater variety of plants. “Sedums only flower in late May and June, while the various species of wildflowers can bloom from April through to October. Extensive garden-like roofs allow for a more biodiverse mix of native wildflowers and sedums,” he says.

Grass should also be avoided on extensive green roofs as it is heavily reliant on water. “Designers often want that natural ‘cultural’ aesthetic of a meadow, but this is best avoided because irrigation will be an absolute necessity,” Dusty warns.

2. Keep on top of your weeding

Regular hand-pulling weeds is the safest way to protect your green roof. Invasive species should be targeted early, before they establish deep roots.

Plants such as Buddleia are a common issue. “Its root structure is pretty invasive and so we like to keep these under control, generally by hand pulling,” says Mike Cottage, sustainability director at The Urban Greening Company.

“If they get out of control, professional stem injection may be required. Any other species that may be too dominant are hand pulled.”

“When removing wind-borne weeds such as Buddleia and Fleabane take extra care to avoid damaging the waterproofing layer,” adds Gary Grant, technical director at The Green Infrastructure Consultancy.

Shop for green roof maintenance products

3. Make sure drainage is clear

Clear gutters and drains are essential to ensure water flows off the roof efficiently. Gravel firebreaks should also be cleaned regularly to prevent weed growth and fire hazards.

“If the gutters or drains fail, the roof could fail. Silt and detritus can be removed by hand,” says Chris Roddick, product manager at Bauder.

4. Use the correct feeding and watering schedules

Most extensive green roofs require minimal fertilisation. “Some firms recommend slow-release fertiliser pellets, but in my experience, these are rarely necessary. Sedums, mosses and drought-tolerant wildflowers generally thrive on what’s naturally available in the substrate,” says Chris Roddick.

Beyond feeding, water management as part of your green roof maintenance is another key factor in keeping your green roof healthy. Sedum is very drought tolerant but global warming means that they will require irrigation in dry periods.

The bigger issue is access. “An inaccessible roof is likely to fail over time,” warns Chris, and while irrigation is possible with the use of sprinklers they use a lot of water. The thickness of the growing medium also plays a crucial role in plant survival during hot summers and heavy rain.

“With hotter summers and heavier rain it is also so important to ensure that the green roof has a substrate (growing medium) of at least 80mm plus vegetation, or at least 100mm if seeded,” adds Gary Grant.

5. Deal with bare patches

However, even with appropriate feeding and watering, occasional plant losses or overcrowding can create bare patches or monocultures that need attention. Generally they should be filled.

“Pick leaf and cuttings from the adjacent areas and sprinkle over the bare area, or peel off sedum and soil from new sedum blankets and lay these onto the area,” suggests Mike Cottage.

More serious problems such as erosion, wind lift and substrate damage can occur and cause patches, but these issues are only common on houses. However if these problems do occur, Mike says that the remedy is to, “patch the bare areas and often add large 40-60mm (or bigger) pebbles to create more long term stability.”

Reflection from glass facades can also create dead zones where the vegetation burns off. The fix in this situation is once again to cover the affected area with pebbles.

Patches may also appear as a result of pest infestations and diseases, including fungal moss, rot or aphid infestations. But, experts say these these are uncommon and more likely to occur on damp roofs, or where airflow is restricted.

6. Don't be afraid to deadhead, thin and trim

“For most green roofs the vegetation is allowed to colonise and spread naturally, but roofs are hostile environments and not all plants will survive,” notes Chris Roddick. Overcrowding is uncommon and if certain species try to dominate they can be thinned or removed by hand-pulling. This may also be necessary to manage monocultures, and removing coarse grass or clover will also help to promote biodiversity.

Regular trimming and deadheading will remove dead growth, encourages new vigour, and prevents any one species from dominating. Seasonal growth should be monitored, and removal of straggly plants is advised.

“We tend to do this between October and February," says Mike Cottage. "However, it needs to be done selectively. In particular we leave anything that is flowering. Plants with hollow stems also provide winter refuge for a lot of invertebrates, so we would leave these as well,” he notes.

7. Get a regular professional inspection

Professional inspections identify issues noted throughout this guide such as blocked drains, substrate erosion, or damage to the mesh and other materials. Catching emerging problems early, protects both vegetation health and the overall longevity of the green roof.

While the vegetation itself should be checked by a qualified professional once or twice a year, maintenance of a green roof is not however required to maintain insulation or the waterproofing, notes Gary Grant. “The green roof actually protects the waterproofing from the elements and extends the life."

Considering a green roof as part of your self build or extension plans? Be inspired by this dream extension that included a green roof, hidden wine cellar and skylight nook. Or, if you are looking to create an even 'greener' home, check out the advice in our guide to eco-homes.

If the abundance of rain this winter is taking its toll on your external walls, but they're still in good condition, applying facade cream could be a potential option to help prevent water ingress, and the dreaded arrival of damp.

But what is facade cream, how does it work, is it suitable for all homes, when should you avoid using it and is it something you can DIY, or will you need to call in the professionals?

We asked two building experts to explain the benefits of this product, also sometimes referred to as masonry cream, and asked them if it really can help ensure your home stays warm and dry this winter.

What is facade cream?

So what exactly is facade cream and why could it help your home, particularly during the winter months?

"Facade cream is essentially a water-repellent cream that is specifically designed to protect your exterior walls from damp and frost damage, while still allowing the wall to breathe," explains Andy Simms, build expert at MyBuilder.com.

Acting as an invisible barrier, the cream prevents water from penetrating your walls, but as it's breathable, it still allows moisture to escape, thus preventing the risk of trapped moisture or condensation.

However, there are a number of different products available, and which one you choose depends on what your external walls are constructed with and your external cladding or finishes. Choosing the right product is key to ensuring unnecessary expenditure, warns Alex Peters, a cost check expert at Checkatrade.

"There are two main options," says Alex. "The first is facade coating which can be applied to multiple surfaces including brickwork, masonry, render and pebbledash, as well as painted surfaces. It's used to waterproof the exterior walls of a property and its composition allows water droplets to run off the surface. The material is still breathable, and it allows moisture to escape from the masonry.

"But, there's also masonry crème (often referred to as facade cream) which works in a similar way, but is mainly used on brickwork, stone and concrete," he explains. And, it's this option which is also more DIY friendly.

Shop for facade cream

What are the benefits of facade cream?

There are a number of positives to facade creams or coatings, particularly when the unpredictable combination of cold and wet in the winter can lead to many homes experiencing problems such as rising damp.

“We’ve experienced a lot of rainfall across the UK recently, which is showing no sign of slowing down, and this means that any existing cracks in our exterior walls can be exacerbated. They also risk frost-related damage when the temperature drops," says Andy Simms, "and one of the best items to help prevent this kind of masonry deterioration is façade cream."

Coating your walls to prevent water seeping in, means that you are naturally less likely to experience damp, mould and you may even see a reduction in your energy bills.

"In addition to weatherproofing and a potential reduction in the need for maintenance to your external walls, it can also improve thermal efficiency," confirms Alex Peters.

When should you not use facade cream?

Making sure you have the right product for your walls is the first and most important step to take when understanding when not to use facade cream.

In addition, Alex Peters shares the following advice. "Don’t use facade coating on brickwork or exterior walls that need repair. If your walls have any damaged rendering, cracks or bumps, the coating won’t accurately cover them.

"You need to make sure any underlying issues are repaired first. If the damage is mostly superficial (such as hairline cracks), you should be able to apply the product," he adds, "but a basecoat may still be recommended as the first step."

Timing matters too which means applying during the winter needs extra special attention – a potential dilemma given it's normally winter when you realise your walls need some extra help.

"Don’t apply the coating at the wrong time of year," warns Alex. "Some products must be applied to a dry surface in a temperature above 5 degrees celsius. Failing to do so will mean that the product doesn’t dry correctly."

How do you apply facade cream?

If you think your walls might be in need of some extra protection, the guidelines regarding application of facade cream can differ depending on which product you use. Always check the instructions to see if you need to call in a professional, or if it's something you can tackle yourself.

"If using products such as those supplied by ProPERLA , some coatings must be applied by a tradesperson who specialises in applying it," warns Alex Peters. "This is because a professional finish is necessary to ensure the coating performs at its best. It’s also to ensure that your chosen coating is certified and safe to use."

However, if opting for an alternative, such as PermaSeal, “it’s extremely easy to use," says Andy Simms.

"As long as the surface you’re applying it to is clean, free from algae and paint and has been dry for at least two days, you can apply one layer of your façade cream straight from its bucket. Use a brush for smaller areas, or roller equipment for larger areas.

“You will notice after application that your exterior wall appears white," he notes. "This is nothing to worry about. All you need to do is wait for your wall to fully dry - it will appear darker during this process, before returning to its original appearance.”

Keen to consider some alternative finishes external walls that may offer additional protection? Check out our guide to house cladding ideas, but if the problem with your walls lies more with cold, than it does damp, make sure your external wall insulation isn't in need of an upgrade first.

Storm Goretti has battered the UK over the past week, leaving homes damaged and communities struggling with power outages and travel chaos.

Among those directly affected are TV presenter Steve Backshall and his wife, Olympic rower Helen Glover, who claim their home in Land’s End was hit hard by ferocious winds.

The damage to their coastal home highlights the dangers homeowners faced as the storm reportedly toppled trees, damaged roofs, and cut power to tens of thousands of properties.

A night of ferocious winds

Steve Backshall claims the intensity of the storm made being inside their house feel “like being on the bridge of a ship in the Antarctic.”

They say several windows blew in, and the roof seemed on the verge of lifting as gusts battered their property.

He describes the pressure as “incredible” and says: “You could feel it in your ears - our ears were constantly popping, and it felt like the house was just going to take off.”

Life in Cornwall comes with adventure and cleanup

Helen Glover spoke about the clean-up after Storm Goretti, saying: “Part of having kids is all the paraphernalia that comes with it. We tried to put as much inside as we could, but then you realise there are sandpits at the end of the garden, and we’ve got to find out where their trampoline has landed. There’s so much we tried to protect, but it’s hard when the wind is beyond anything we could have imagined.”

The couple have only recently relocated to the Cornwall coastal property, with Helen posting on Instagram about moving their “wildlings” to her childhood home, embracing a house full of “salt, sand, and semi-dry wetsuits” as part of one big adventure.

Their experience shows both the practical challenges of family life on the coast and the advantages of storm-proofing homes.

Widespread storm damage across the UK

Storm Goretti reportedly caused severe disruption beyond the Backshalls’ home. Tens of thousands of homes across southwest England, the West Midlands, Wales, and coastal areas lost power, while coastal erosion caused by Storm Goretti in Norfolk forced evacuations from 14 homes.

In the Channel Islands, strong winds reportedly knocked down trees, fences, and telephone lines, and damaged roofs, leaving communities to clear debris and assess repairs.

The Backshalls’ experience illustrates the scale of destruction as Storm Goretti swept through the UK with gusts reported up to 105 mph.

Fourteen homes perched atop soft cliffs at Hemsby in Norfolk have been warned they face “imminent collapse” onto the beach after recent storms eroded more than 10 m of land this week. 

Residents have been told to leave their coastal homes, especially overnight this weekend, as cliff falls are expected, with more than 36 houses already lost in recent years.

Local officials are scrambling to support owners and stress that coastal erosion - made worse by climate change – continues to threaten the village’s future.

Council warns of extreme erosion and safety risks

Great Yarmouth Borough Council has repeatedly stressed that the rate of erosion at Hemsby is exceptionally high, describing the area as “one of the fastest eroding coastlines in northern Europe.”

A council spokesperson said recent storms, including Storm Goretti, have pushed some properties into “an even more precarious position,” and that safety is the top priority.

Officials have been liaising with affected homeowners for some time, but have now been forced to escalate warnings and urge people not to stay in clifftop homes - particularly overnight - because of the real risk of collapse identified by coastal experts.

The council also urged people to stay well clear of the dune face and take heed of warning signs where parts of the beach have been closed for safety reasons.

What residents have been told

Residents on The Marrams and Fakes Road – the streets most affected – have been told their properties may need to be demolished before they fall into the sea.

The council’s housing team has been present in the village offering support and advice on safety and the options available during this difficult period.

Homeowners are being urged to heed evacuation instructions and not to occupy homes overnight as weather conditions worsen over the weekend. Officials emphasise the emotional toll of the situation but insist that doing nothing is not an option given the rate at which the cliffs are receding.

Ongoing erosion and future challenges

The erosion at Hemsby is not just a short-term event. Over the past decade, storms and rising seas have steadily eaten into the soft sand and clay cliffs, with more than 36 properties already demolished or lost to the sea since 2013.

Great Yarmouth Borough Council has been taking several steps to manage the crisis. They secured planning permission for a 1.3km rock berm to provide partial coastal defence, though full funding from the Environment Agency is not currently available. In March 2023, the council obtained emergency government funding to build a temporary 100m granite rock berm, installing almost 2,000 tonnes of rock to slow erosion.

Looking ahead, the council is working with Coastal Partnership East through the Resilient Coasts project, a government-backed initiative that will explore financial support for communities, adaptation options, and potential national policy changes.

The council says it will continue engaging directly with homeowners to explain risks, advise on safety measures, and help plan for property relocation or demolition where necessary. Officials emphasise that while permanent coastal defence may be limited, resident safety and clear guidance on options are the top priority.

Ceilings are the part of our homes that we tend not to think about until there’s a problem or a change of plan. Most of the time they’re just the surface that finishes a room, separating one floor from another. But in many homes, there are good reasons to alter them, and specifically lower certain types of ceiling.

Lowering a ceiling sounds an odd thing to do as high ceilings are usually seen as a feature, giving rooms a sense of space and grandeur. So why make them lower? Reducing ceiling height can solve practical issues, improve comfort, and even modernise the look of a room.

This article explains why you might consider lowering a ceiling, the main methods used and the key things to consider before getting started.

Why lower ceilings?

People choose to drop ceilings for a mix of practical and aesthetic reasons, including:

Creating space for services – Modern homes need an increasing number of pipes, ducts, and cables. Retrofitting these into older houses can prove tricky because the structure wasn’t designed to carry them. A lowered ceiling provides a zone where wiring, heating pipes, or ventilation ducts can sit neatly out of sight.

Covering up defects – Many post-war houses suffer from uneven plaster, exposed beams or messy repairs, and in older properties, ceilings sometimes sag over time. Installing a suspended ceiling rather than repairing old ceilings, creates a fresh, level surface without the need for expensive structural work.

Improving energy efficiency – Tall rooms may look impressive but can be hard to heat. Warm air rises, leaving the occupied space below cooler. Reducing the ceiling height makes it easier and cheaper to keep a room warm – particularly in older houses.

Design – A lowered ceiling can help to redefine a space. Home cinemas often work better with a slightly reduced height for example, while kitchen ceilings and bathrooms can benefit from concealed lighting and ventilation to create clean looking spaces.

How to lower a ceiling

Lowering a ceiling doesn’t usually mean altering the floor above – it instead involves creating a new surface beneath the old one. There are two main methods for doing so.

1. Suspended MF ceiling systems

This is the most flexible option. A perimeter channel is fixed around the walls, with lightweight metal channels suspended from the existing ceiling.

Cross channels form a grid, onto which plasterboard is fixed. The depth of the void can be adjusted depending on how much space is needed for services. The finish is smooth, strong, and versatile, making this the go-to method for most modern installations.

2. Battened timber ceilings

A simpler alternative is to fix timber battens to the existing ceiling joists, lowering the level just enough to take plasterboard. It’s cheaper and easier than a full MF system but doesn’t provide for large voids. This method works well if you only need to level a surface, or cover up minor defects.

Materials and finishes to use when lowering a ceiling

Plasterboard is the standard material for lowered ceilings. There are different types of plasterboard, and a 12.5mm board offers a good balance between weight and strength, though 15mm offers better fire and acoustic performance. Avoid thin 9.5mm boards, as they flex too much and are therefore difficult to finish well.

Specialist plasterboard options include:

• Moisture-resistant boards (green-coloured) for bathrooms and kitchens
• Fire-rated boards for kitchens or between floors
• Acoustic boards to reduce sound transfer in bedrooms or home offices

Boards are fixed to the frame with drywall screws to the manufacturer's specifications, and then finished either by taping and jointing or with a skim coat of plaster. Skim plastering gives the best, most durable result, but requires a skilled tradesperson. Taping and jointing is more DIY-friendly if done carefully.

Decoration is much the same as any other ceiling and usually painted white for brightness. Installing coving can add a traditional touch, and recessed spotlights or LED strips take advantage of the new void for modern lighting design.

Things to consider before lowering ceilings

Lowering a ceiling is a relatively straightforward project, but there are important implications to think through.

Headroom

The first issue is ceiling height and building regulations suggest at least 2.1m in habitable rooms. Whilst this isn’t always enforced in existing houses, it’s a sensible benchmark. Reduce the height too much and the room will feel cramped, and potentially less appealing to future buyers.

Fire resistance and sound insulation

Ceilings form part of the fire-resisting structure between floors. Any new construction must meet or exceed the required fire resistance, usually achieved with suitable plasterboard and correct fixings.

In multi-storey houses or flats, you may also need to consider enhanced acoustic performance, ensuring sound doesn’t travel too easily between living accommodation.

Access to services

Whilst hiding cables and pipes is neat, they’ll eventually need maintenance. Consider access panels where valves, junctions, or junction boxes may need servicing. Electrical work must comply with Part P of the building regulations, which covers domestic electrical safety.

Light and proportions

Dropping a ceiling alters how a room feels. Sometimes the effect is cosy; other times it can feel oppressive, especially if windows are small or high up the wall. A good idea is to mark the proposed height on the wall with tape to get a sense of the finished proportions.

Potential drawbacks

As with any alteration, lowering a ceiling is not without its downsides, and the most obvious is the loss of vertical space. Even a modest drop of 100mm can change the feel of a room, and in smaller houses, this may be noticeable.

There’s also the cost to consider. Whilst timber battening can be relatively inexpensive, a full MF system with plasterboard, plastering, and decorating can quickly add up, particularly if services need to be altered at the same time.

There’s also the risk of creating maintenance challenges. Concealed services are harder to access if things go wrong, and cutting into a new ceiling to find a leaking pipe is never a good idea. There’s also the possibility of ceiling condensation and ventilation issues, if moisture-resistant materials are not used where required.

Finally, if the work is not carried out to the required standards, you could compromise fire safety or fail to meet building regulations, which could cause problems when selling the house in the future.

Whether lowering a ceiling is the right choice depends entirely on your circumstances. If the goal of researching ceiling ideas is to hide an uneven surface, or modernise an outdated room, it can be a relatively simple and effective upgrade.

If you need to route new services for heating, electrics, or ventilation, the void created by a suspended system may prove invaluable. On the other hand, if your home already has modest ceiling heights, the impact on proportions might outweigh the benefits.

Lowering ceilings is one of those home improvement projects that sounds simple but carries a surprising number of implications. Done well, it can transform a space, provide practical solutions for modern living, and even improve environmental comfort. But it requires careful thought about proportions, fire resistance, building regulations, and long-term maintenance.

It’s therefore always advisable to consult a professional. A good builder or ceiling specialist will be able to recommend the most appropriate method, advise on materials, and ensure compliance with the building regulations.

Once your new lowered ceiling is in place you'll also need to think about its appearance. Try these painted ceiling ideas as a starting point, and if you're installing new lighting at the same time, check out these ideas on lighting for low ceilings.

If you haven't heard of surfactant leaching, you're not alone. Neither had I until I started looking into why I had water streaks on my bathroom walls.

I partly knew the reasons why, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything that could cause more damage in the long run such as damp. Plus, I wanted to know if there was a way to easily remove them without causing more marks.

While not as serious as water stains on walls, their unslightly appearance is something I'd rather avoid, so here's what's behind them and what you can do about it.

What causes water streaks on walls

Water streaks on walls are different to water stains in that they run in lines down the wall, unlike stains which tend to appear as brown patches in one spot.

In my particular case, they're thankfully not caused by anything too serious, but what could be causing the water streaks on your walls and do you need to be worried?

And, do water streaks look different depending on what's causing them. Building expert, Andy Simms from MyBuilder.com helps clear up what's behind the unsightly appearance of your walls.

1. Surfactant leaching

If your walls are looking streaky, there's something called surfactant leaching which may be causing the problem. But what is it?

“Surfactant leaching is when small, usually brown streaks appear on newly-painted surfaces, and it’s caused when rooms with poor conditions for paint drying, allow surfactants to rise to the surface," explains Andy Simms.

Surfactants are the water-soluble compounds which rise to the surface. The moisture causes these ingredients to 'leach' outwards, resulting in streaks running down your wall.

"It commonly occurs when poor drying conditions such as low temperature, high levels of humidity and low-level ventilation are in place," says Andy, "and it’s more likely to take place in bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms, which are more prone to humidity and condensation, or any north-facing rooms, which are usually the colder rooms in your home."

The good news is, they aren't harmful and aren't caused by more serious problems such as mould or damp.

Even if you clean them off using the advice below, there's a chance you might encounter them again. So, to try and prevent them, make sure you've followed the instructions on the paint tin when painting your walls, and ensure you use the right type of paint in the correct location.

“While surfactant leaching can be difficult to prevent, there also are a few additional steps you can take to avoid cold or humid conditions in your home, which will minimise the chances of this happening," adds Andy.

• Ventilate: opening doors and windows, even for short periods will allow humidity to escape
• Avoid cold temperatures: ideally, you don’t want the room temperature to drop below 16°C while the paint is drying
• Avoid adding moisture: if you’re painting a bathroom or kitchen, avoid activities that will generate steam, like (showering or laundry) before the paint has fully dried. If this is unavoidable, consider using a dehumidifier after these activities

2. Using the wrong paint and poor ventilation

If you've got a 'sweaty toilet' or to use the correct term, condensation on your toilet, there's a fair chance you've got water streaks on your walls too.

Any condensation problems are caused by warm moisture droplets hitting a colder surface such as an external wall. If you don't have the best bathroom extractor fans or good bathroom ventilation measures in place, then in the same way condensation will gather on your windows and toilet, so it will linger on your walls.

Throw into the mix using non-specific bathroom paint then, like me, you'll soon start to see water streaks on your walls.

The only solution here is to repaint your walls with the correct product, something Beth Murton, editor of Homebuilding & Renovating had to succumb to as well.

"Like Sarah, I opted for a matt emulsion paint because I prefer that as a paint finish. Despite convincing myself it would be fine, our bathroom ventilation just couldn't handle the condensation, and the walls were streaky within weeks. In the end I had the paint re-mixed using a low-sheen base. It's resulted in no streaks and a surface that's much easier to clean."

So, in an ideal world, when next renovating your bathroom, as well as using the correct paint, it would also be wise to add in extra ventilation to help remove moisture more effectively.

In the meantime, make sure you undertake daily tasks such as house burping, or placing a dehumidifier outside the bathroom to draw out any excess water droplets.

Shop bathroom suitable paints

Cleaning water streaks off walls

The first step when cleaning water streaks off walls, is understanding what paint finish you are tackling. In bathrooms, if you have used non-bathroom or non-wipeable paint, it will be hard to not remove some colour from your walls.

it also depends on how fresh your paint is warns Andy Simms. "If cleaning newly painted walls, it’s important to wait until the paint has completely cured," he advises. "This can take up to a week, to prevent smudging or peeling."

But, assuming you have used the correct paint, cleaning isn't too complicated a job.

"When removing any stains from painted walls, always start with the gentlest method," advises Georgina Shepherd, cleaning expert at Housekeep.com.

"For water marks, a little warm water mixed with mild dish soap on a microfibre cloth works pretty well. The trick is to keep the cloth damp, not soaked, and to avoid scrubbing too hard. After cleaning, dry the area immediately with a clean cloth."

Try this pack of Aieda microfibre cloths from Amazon for cleaning water streaks off walls. They come in different colours to help you separate them into dirty and clean cloths.

"If the water marks aren’t budging, a diluted vinegar solution (half water, half white vinegar) is very effective," she adds, "but I'd recommend testing it in a discreet area first, because vinegar can dull certain matte or flat finishes. Also, apply it with a cloth rather than spraying the wall directly for better control of how much solution is applied."

You could also try a Magic Eraser from Amazon to remove water marks from walls, says Georgina but err on the side of caution.

"These cleaners are micro-abrasive, so while they work well on satin or semi-gloss paint but can damage matte finishes by leaving shiny patches."

One final word of warning from Andy Simms? "It’s also recommended that you don’t just simply paint over the stains, as this won’t solve the problem, instead only trapping the oily residue of the streaks and causing them to worsen over time.”

If however you have water streaks on your walls despite using the right paint and the correct levels of home ventilation, do make sure you discount any serious problems such as a leaking roofs which could lead to more expensive roof leak repair costs.

Also ensure you give your loft insulation a good inspection, to check there isn't an issue with loft condensation tracking into the room where you've discovered water streaks on your walls.

If there's a phrase that can spread fear into the bones of homeowners, it's someone saying 'it looks like you have rising damp.' Enough to make a wallet twitch and your heart race, it's been the subject of home horror stories on more than one occasion.

But, what if your rising damp isn't really rising damp? The signs of damp on your walls doesn't mean it's always as bad as you fear, and how you treat the problem will be essential in preventing issues in the future.

Build expert, Ian Rock is here to explain how to know when your damp is genuinely rising damp, and when it's a case of mistaken identity.

What is rising damp?

It's hardly surprising that in a rainy country like Britain the subject of water ingress has such a firm grip on the national psyche, even spawning whole industries dedicated to battling disconcerting damp patches.

Rising damp, one of the different types of damp that can occur in the home, is, as the name suggests, penetrating damp which rises upwards from ground level into the walls of your home.

It is generally caused by a number of different problems with the damp proof course (DPC) in your home, or indeed by the lack of a DPC. It's also often harder to spot, unlike damp in roofs or lofts, which can become visible more quickly as a result of roof leaks in lofts or ceilings.

However, the concern around the topic of rising damp is understandable, as unless it's carefully managed, water has significant potential to damage and disrupt. As well as instigating decay in timber structures, over time water can erode solid masonry because it expands around 8% in volume when it freezes, exerting a pressure equivalent to two tonnes per square centimetre.

The good news is, these sorts of headline grabbing risks are extreme examples, and normally only arise in cases of long-term neglect.

Why is rising damp misdiagnosed?

Damp in lower walls is a subject with a significant history. It began back in the Victorian era (from 1875 to be precise) when builders started installing DPCs in the lower courses of the main walls as a barrier to deter water from the ground rising up the brickwork.

DPCs were designed to work in tandem with air brick vents set in the lower walls to encourage a healthy flow of air that naturally dries out any moisture in the walls and sub-floor.

But, when there are problems with the DPC, it means the barrier that was in place to prevent moisture ingress in your home is broken or bridged. As a result, it's often assumed, often too quickly, that blown plasterwork or dampness in the lower walls means only one thing – rising damp.

The way moisture affects old buildings has only recently started to be fully appreciated, and the automatic reaction of many mortgage lenders to the slightest sniff of damp has long been to insist on ‘essential repairs’ often resulting in sales-driven timber and damp contractors unnecessarily injecting chemical DPCs into the affected areas.

In truth, the occasional spot of damp isn’t necessarily a problem and it not unusual to need to treat damp in older properties. To a trained eye, a damp patch may reveal itself to be a relatively harmless symptom of a minor fault that can be rectified during routine maintenance.

Tthe most common cause of damp in lower walls, is in fact high ground. External ground levels should be a good 200mm or more below floor level. Common offenders include flower beds banked up against outside walls that effectively force moisture into the brickwork.

Other culprits include patios laid far too high causing bridging of DPCs, and rain splashing on hard surfaces that saturates the lower walls.

The fact is, the main walls in our homes aren’t impregnable. Water often finds its way through weak points, such as gaps that have developed where window and door frames are set into walls, and beneath defective window sills.

Cracks or eroded mortar joints can also be an invitation for rainwater to join the party. Dampness of this type is all quite logically referred to as ‘penetrating damp’.

The age of a property can be a useful guide to where it is most vulnerable to moisture ingress. Many older houses with solid walls have relatively porous brickwork that can absorb a certain amount of rain. This isn’t usually a problem if the moisture is free to evaporate out again in dry weather (a process known as ‘breathing’). But where walls have been re-pointed or rendered with incompatible modern cement-based materials that are comparatively hard and brittle they have a tendency to develop fine cracks that allow rain to enter and become trapped. Modern non-breathable ‘plastic’ paints can also block damp from escaping, acting like a giant plastic bag smothering the walls.

Once trapped, damp that freezes can blow off chunks of render or erode solid brick or stonework, so the best advice is to replace any cement mortar pointing or render on older solid walls with traditional, breathable lime-based materials.

The main concern in cases where rising damp is suspected, or indeed confirmed, is whether there’s any risk of long term exposure causing rot to structural components such as suspended timber floors.

How you treat rising damp depends on the cause of the problem

The surveying profession now generally acknowledges that past advice on treating damp by injecting chemical DPCs often did more harm than good. Instead, an effective solution usually involves carrying out maintenance work carefully targeted to address the specific cause of the problem.

One of the most important factors here is the extent to which water is allowed to accumulate near the base of the walls. Where you’ve got wet, stained brick or stonework with puddles on the ground the first consideration should be cutting off the supply of water. Check for things like blocked or overflowing gutters, leaking downpipes, faulty drains or gulleys, and waste pipes that need to be fixed.

As well as lowering the ground, installing a shallow gravel-filled trench, or French Drain around the base of the walls should allow moisture to evaporate more easily.

Modern cavity walls can also harbour damp due to poor quality construction with mortar droppings or debris accumulating in the lower cavities which may need to be cleared by specialist contractors laboriously removing individual bricks.

Any badly eroded mortar joints should be raked out and repointed. It’s also worth clearing any climbing vegetation on period properties, as this can harbour damp and prevent walls from drying out. Internally, evidence of past damp problems can often be detected in plasterwork, which can retain a residue of salts deposited by water. These white salts should be brushed or vacuumed off as they can absorb moisture from the atmosphere of the room, or in severe cases re-plastering may be required.

If all else fails and an injected DPC is recommended, the most effective option is a diffusion system using Silane cream which is odourless, non-flammable and diffuses via the mortar joints without scarring the walls, so can even be applied to party walls.

In conclusion, a well-maintained building shouldn’t need special treatments to manage damp. Most problems can be remedied with common-sense maintenance.

Your first task should always be to identify the true cause. Then, once this has been resolved, keep the house heated and allow sufficient time for the walls to dry out.

For internal damp problems, try using the best dehumidifiers to prevent condensation and damp building up on your walls and windows, and if you have fixed a damp problem, follow the advice for painting over damp to get your home looking fresh and restored once more.

Adding coving is a clever, subtle, and straightforward way to add character to a room. It softens the harsh straight edges where a wall meets the ceiling and introduces curves, depth, and definition.

It also comes in a variety of styles and finishes. You can choose a simple, classic curved shape for modern homes, or add more decorative detail to evoke the charm of a period property.

The beauty of coving is that it can fit almost anywhere in the home, and it can enhance different types of ceilings and rooms. Whether it's to complete a formal dining room or enhance your living room, the best part is, with the help of this guide, you can even do it yourself.

Tools to install coving

As with any DIY project, you need the right tools to achieve the best finish. To install coving, you'll need a few basic tools that most DIY enthusiasts already have, as well as a few you might not.

• Measuring tape
• Mitre box – like this Clamping Mitre Box (with saw) from Amazon
• Fine tooth saw – try this Irwin XP3055-300 Jack Tenon Saw from Amazon
• Spirit level
• Caulking gun – try the Volden heavy-duty sealant gun from B&Q
• Adhesive - such as Everbuild EVBCOVE 310 ml Coving Adhesive from Amazon
• Scraper
• Filler
• Mitre saw (optional) - try the Makita 216mm Slide Compound Saw from Amazon

How to install coving

The good news is, learning how to install coving won't take too long. There are just three steps from start to finish.

1. Measure up

“To start, measure the perimeter of your room using a tape measure to identify the length of every wall,” advises Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb. This is important for accurate cuts. Now check the manufacturer's instructions to see how far the coving edges should be fixed from the wall.

Paul Kerr, building expert at Beatsons Building Supplies agrees, adding, "don't forget to buy an extra 10% of coving on top of this measurement for cutting or mistakes.”

Next, “mark this measurement regularly along the wall using a tape measure and pencil," says Mark. "Then join these marks together with a spirit level in order to create a guide for installing your coving around the room."

2. Cut coving

For the cutting process, “first, take a pencil and mark out the length of the coving for each wall on the underside of the coving, making sure to be precise,” says Mark Irving.

Then, start cutting. “Place your coving on your workbench in a mitre box and use a fine-tooth saw to cut the coving at a 45-degree angle.”

3. Install coving

Don’t dive straight in with installation, warns Mark Irving. "Instead, first hold your coving up against the wall to check that it’s a good fit. Then wipe the area with a damp cloth to remove any dust or debris.”

The next step is to add adhesive and install the coving.

“Take your caulking gun and apply a generous line of adhesive to the top and bottom edge of your coving and firmly press it into position on the wall,” says Mark.

His top tip for ensuring it stays in place? “Whilst it’s drying, you can hammer some pins under the coving at 600mm intervals, and remove them when the adhesive has dried.”

The final step before painting is to fill any gaps with a suitable filler. Make sure to remove any excess, then wipe with a damp cloth to achieve a smooth finish.

Types of coving

Coving comes in a variety of materials and styles, each with its own pros and cons.

“There are four main types of coving," shares Paul Kerr. "Polystyrene, polyurethane, MDF/wood, and plaster."

Here we take a look at the different options and what they offer.

Polystyrene coving

Polystyrene coving is typically the most affordable option and easy to install, but it’s not perfect, says Mark Irving. “It’s easy to install due to its lightweight nature. However, its lightweight nature means it’s not as long-lasting or durable as other types of coving.

“It can also dent more than other materials and typically isn't as aesthetically pleasing as other options," he adds.

Polyurethane coving

Polyurethane coving is made from a polymer, which is essentially a type of plastic.

“Polyurethane coving is a more mid-range option that offers good durability and high moisture resistance," says Paul Kerr. "However, polyurethane coving is still less durable than plaster coving.”

In terms of price, it will be around twice the price of polystyrene coving.

Plaster coving

Plaster coving is the traditional material commonly associated with coving and cornices, and is more likely to be the best choice when renovating a house.

“Plaster is the most durable and typically comes in more ornate designs, yet is the heaviest and usually is best left to a professional to fit," advises Paul Kerr.

However, "plaster coving is highly durable and strong, so once it’s installed, it can last for decades with minimal maintenance," adds Mark Irving.

MDF/wood coving

This is less commonly used for coving, although, “MDF or wood is good for basic square edge designs, and is usually the best to paint over,” says Paul Kerr. "But it's not as durable as other options, he continues, "and can bow or bend if exposed to moisture.”

If you do choose this option, make sure you understand how to paint MDF so that you don't end up with problems once the coving is installed.

Try these coving options to decorate your home

Costs to install coving

If you don’t have the time, tools or skills to install coving, you can call in a professional, but the price for this may vary.

“The cost of installing coving can vary based on the material of the coving, the size of the room and your regional location,” explains Mark Irving.

However, as a general guideline, “to install standard coving you can expect to pay around £150 to £300 per day," says Mark. "But, to install more expensive and intricate styles of coving in a larger room, you can expect to pay as much as £800 per day”.

For a more precise figure, “you can expect labourers to charge around £6 - £12/m installed, so for a 5 x 5m room can expect a cost of around £400 - £500 when fitting a plaster coving,” says Paul Kerr.

If installing coving yourself, you can expect to pay around £2 - £3/m for basic polystyrene coving. Polyurethane coving prices start at around £5 - £6/m for plain styling, while more decorative styles can cost £10 - £25/m.

Plain plaster coving can be bought for as little as £4/m, but for traditional decorative styles, expect to pay at least £10/m. Shop around to find special offers and deals.

Can I install coving myself?

A competent DIYer can install coving, but will need the right tools to ensure a good finish.

“Installing coving is a fairly straightforward process that requires accurately cutting the coving to size, applying adhesive, pressing the coving into place and completing the look by sanding and painting the coving," agrees Mark Irving.

But, you might need more than one person for the job advises Paul Kerr.

“Heavy plaster-based coving usually requires more than one set of hands, but there are a variety of lightweight options that are very DIY friendly, easy to cut and glue down.”

FAQs

What is the difference between coving and cornices?

Cornice and coving perform the same function and are often used interchangeably.

But, to try end explain the difference, “a cornice is a general term used to describe a moulding that conceals the joint between a ceiling and wall,” says Mark Irving

"It is also usually only available in plaster format and is more for aesthetic purposes," adds Paul Kerr, "with more variation on decoration and design.” It's something you're more likely to come across when renovating a Georgian house, for example.

"Coving on the other hand can be described is a type of cornice that has a more plain design, typically in a standard C-shape,” shares Mark.

What colour should coving be painted?

Colour is subjective, but white is a popular choice for trim in a room, and it's a popular choice for coving too.

“White or a variation of white is the most common colour for coving," confirms Mark Irving. "Typically it's painted white to blend with ceilings for a more timeless look, and can also create a contrast between the wall colour, to highlight the architecture of the room

“However, you can paint yours any colour you like," he adds. "For example, if your ceiling is being painted, it makes sense to pair the coving collaboratively. Or, in a small room, it can be beneficial to paint your coving the same colour as your walls to elongate the room's height.” Techniques such as colour drenching, a popular paint trend, and colour capping are all ways in which coving can be integrated into your overall interior design ideas.

Alongside colour, it's also a smart idea to consider the type of paint you use, says Mark. “Matt paint finishes are beneficial for coving, as they helps hide imperfections, unlike high-gloss finishes.”

An alternative is a mid-sheen finish, or a vinyl matt paint. “A satin finish can provide a sleek appearance and be helpful in improving durability," notes Mark.

If you're adding coving and cornices, make sure you also think about how else you can elevate a room. You may consider looking at the different types of skirting available and using a similar profile to marry up the junctions between floor, ceiling and walls.

Alternatively, in the same way as LED skirting board has proved popular in contemporary homes, consider whether LED coving could add a final flourish to your lighting design and bring a new dimension to your ceilings.

The first time you encounter salt banding on a damp wall, it’s easy to mistake it for mould – and in fairness, mould often follows soon after if the issue isn’t addressed. But salt banding is actually the result of salts being drawn up through the wall and deposited in a neat, horizontal line as the moisture evaporates.

It's a common side-effect of rising damp and one that tends to linger long after the original moisture issue has supposedly been fixed. What makes salt banding particularly frustrating is that it behaves differently from ordinary damp patches or mould. The surface might look sound but still feel damp to the touch, and any attempt to redecorate usually ends in bubbling paint or plaster that won’t quite settle.

Below, we break down what salt banding actually is, why it forms, how to tell it apart from other types of damp damage, and the correct way to use a salt neutraliser so the problem doesn’t return.

What is salt banding on a damp wall?

Salt banding is the horizontal line that appears on a wall affected by rising damp, created as moisture draws salts up through the masonry. Jess Thomas, managing director of Drainage Central, explains that it’s “the visible line that indicates how high rising damp has reached,” formed by salts accumulating in the wall fabric. These salts remain active and continue to absorb moisture, keeping the surface damp even after the original problem is fixed.

Barrie Francis, damp and timber specialist at Timberwise adds that this band is caused by hygroscopic salts – mainly chlorides and nitrates – which are left behind as the wall dries out. These salts pull moisture from the air, so the wall may always appear damp at the same height. In some cases, they can absorb enough moisture to dissolve into a liquid, known as deliquescence.

This is distinct from efflorescent salts, which Barrie describes as the small, white crystals commonly seen on drying masonry. These are not usually hygroscopic and can often be brushed away, whereas salt banding requires targeted treatment.

What causes salt banding on a damp wall?

According to Jess Thomas, salt banding typically happens when a damp proof course (DPCs) is damaged or missing, allowing ground moisture to travel freely through the masonry. As the wall dries, the salts naturally concentrate at the point where the moisture stops, which is why the band appears in a clean, horizontal line.

Barrie Francis explains that this is the “peak of the capillary rise,” and it’s here that salts settle during the drying process. Their presence becomes obvious when they begin absorbing moisture from the air, creating a persistent damp-looking strip on the surface.

In essence, the cause is twofold: unwanted moisture rising through the wall, and the salts left behind as that moisture evaporates.

How to tell salt banding apart from mould or damp staining

Salt banding has a few clear markers that set it apart from other types of damp damage. Jess Thomas notes that it appears as “a visible band or line of discolouration,” usually close to ground level or around areas where moisture has seeped in. The surface may still feel damp, but the paint often remains intact – unlike many types of mould, which tend to disrupt the finish and spread in uneven clusters.

Mould shows up as irregular spots rather than a straight, horizontal line, and is typically linked to poor ventilation and high humidity. Damp staining, meanwhile, is any water-related mark that disappears once the underlying moisture issue has been sorted.

If the line appears consistent, low on the wall, and sometimes slightly powdery or fluffy, it’s far more likely to be salt banding than mould or basic staining, and it won’t clear without targeted treatment.

Should you treat salt banding before decorating or replastering?

Treating salts before you attempt any decorating or replastering is essential, as they can prevent new finishes from bonding properly. Jess Thomas explains that if salts remain active in the wall, “fresh paint will blister, crack, peel or flake as the salt pushes it from the wall.” Because these salts continue to absorb moisture from the air, the surface never truly dries, leaving paint and plaster struggling to stabilise.

Barrie Francis cautions that the existing plaster often needs to be removed altogether, and he recommends stripping it back “300mm beyond the last visible signs of dampness,” as hygroscopic salts can sit deeper within the building fabric and reappear even after surface treatments. Skipping this step usually results in the same damage returning, which is why proper salt treatment is just as important as addressing the cause of damp.

How to use salt neutraliser on salt banding

Salt neutraliser is a specialist chemical treatment designed to react with the salts in your wall and stop them drawing in moisture. As Jess Thomas explains, it “penetrates into the wall and reacts with the salts to neutralise them,” and can also help form a barrier against future salt banding on the same surface.

Used correctly, it creates a more stable base for plaster or paint. Here’s how to apply it properly:

1. Prepare the wall

• Brush away any loose, fluffy or powdery salt deposits.
• Remove any flaking paint or obviously loose plaster.
• Soak the affected area with clean water so the neutraliser can penetrate more evenly.

2. Protect yourself and the space

• Neutraliser can cause burns if mishandled, so wear gloves, eye protection and suitable clothing.
• Make sure the room is well ventilated and cover floors and nearby finishes with dust sheets or plastic.

3. Test a discreet area first

• Test the salt neutraliser by applying it to a small, inconspicuous patch.
• Allow it to react fully and check for any unexpected discolouration or surface change before committing to the whole wall.

4. Apply the salt neutraliser

• Follow the product instructions for dilution and coverage, then use a brush to work it evenly into the surface.
• Don’t be alarmed if you see some frothing. This is normal and simply indicates the neutraliser reacting with the salts.

5. Allow time for it to work

• Leave the neutraliser on the wall for the full period recommended by the manufacturer.
• Avoid cutting this time short, as incomplete neutralisation can allow salts to remain active and potentially reappear down the line.

6. Wash down the surface and let the wall dry fully

• Once the reaction time has passed, wash the treated area with clean water to remove any residue.
• Do not paint, skim or replaster until the wall has completely dried.
• Use gentle ventilation and background heating rather than trying to force-dry the surface.

When won't salt neutralisers work?

Salt neutraliser is not a cure-all, particularly where rising damp has been at play for a long time. Barrie Francis stresses that in these cases, the plaster itself is often contaminated with hygroscopic salts and the plaster should be removed altogether.

In severe or long-standing cases of salt banding, especially on walls with a failed or missing damp proof course, you may be looking at:

• Installation or repair of a damp proof course (often via chemical injection).
• Full removal of salt-contaminated plaster to the recommended height.
• Replastering with a suitable damp-resistant specification, potentially alongside the use of a salt neutraliser.

In other words, salt neutraliser works best as part of a wider damp remediation strategy, not as a shortcut in place of fixing the underlying moisture source and replacing heavily contaminated plaster.

Essential products for combatting damp and salt banding

FAQs

Is salt banding always a sign of rising damp?

Not always, but it’s one of the most common causes. Salt banding usually indicates that moisture has travelled up through the wall, bringing salts with it. If you’re unsure whether rising damp is still active, a specialist can carry out moisture and salt testing to confirm and provide advice on how to treat damp in a specific area.

How long does salt neutraliser take to work?

This depends on the specific product, but most require a set reaction period, which is usually a few hours. It’s important to leave it undisturbed for the full time recommended on the packaging so the neutralising process can complete properly.

Can I paint straight over an area treated with salt neutraliser?

No. The wall must be washed down after treatment and allowed to dry completely before you apply paint, plaster or skim coat. Decorating too soon can trap moisture and cause the same problems to reappear.

Will salt banding come back after treatment?

If the underlying moisture issue has been fixed and the salts have been neutralised or removed, the band shouldn’t return. However, if the damp proof course is still compromised, or if salt-contaminated plaster hasn’t been removed where necessary, you may see persistent patches.

Is salt banding harmful?

The salts themselves aren’t harmful, but the damp conditions they create can lead to structural issues, damage to your paintwork, and eventually mould growth if the wall never dries properly. Treating the salts is always recommended if you want to prevent further damage to your home.

For lighter surface issues or general condensation on walls, simple tools like the best dehumidifiers can make a real difference. When in doubt, don't be afraid to contact a damp specialist, as this may prevent more serious, structural damage to your home later on.

Whether your drains are blocked, overflowing or simply running slowly, the words 'drainage problems' are ones. most homeowners would rather avoid hearing. Messy, costly and potentially disruptive, finding the root of them isn't always an easy task.

As with most problems, prevention is always better than cure, but if drainage problems do occur, knowing the causes and how to fix them is essential.

In our expert led guide, we take a dive into the five most common drainage problems so you can identify where the issue lies in your drainage system, and put the necessary measures in place to resolve them.

Signs of drainage problems

One of the main issues with drainage problems is that they might not always be immediately obvious.

The odd gurgle or slow draining sink is easy to ignore when life is busy. 'I'll sort it later' can often spring to mind but in reality, this is false time economy, and could be more expensive (both in terms of time and cost) in the long run.

"Many problems with your foul water drainage aren’t easy to notice until it’s too late. However, if you take some time regularly to inspect the drains in your property, you may notice some early signs of drainage issues," says HomeHow's property and construction expert, Natalie Mitchell.

"Check if there are any unusual smells coming from your drains, and keep a lookout for wet patches or leaks around your property," she suggests.

"Common signs of a broken drainage system also include sunken or soggy ground where your drain pipe is buried, a sudden drop in water pressure, and repeated clogging in your drains," adds valued Checkatrade member Aaaron Willcox, owner of AW Plumbing and Heating.

Other drainage problems warning signs include:

• Overflowing gutters, drainpipes
• Foundation cracks
• Water in basement
• Flooding or pools of water in garden, driveway, patios
• Overflowing toilets, sinks, baths, showers or appliances such as washing machines and dishwashers

Five common drainage problems

If you have spotted some of the warning signs, it's likely your drainage problems are down to one of five common causes. And, while issues with surface water drainage can be dealt with by installing soakaways or French drains, because your foul water pipes are buried underground, finding the problem might not always be easily, or something you can tackle yourself.

1. Blocked drains

It's rare to own a house and never encounter a blocked drain. I've experienced them in most houses I've owned, including within the last year when a blocked shower nearly caused a bathroom flood.

On the positive side, blocked drains are one drainage problem that can often been resolved without calling in the professionals – although it will of course depend on how big the problem is, and how long it's been building up.

"Blocked drains may happen quickly or come on slowly, making them more difficult to notice. The most common causes of drain blockages are hair, fat, and old food," explains Natalie Mitchell.

"There are several DIY methods for unblocking your drains outside. Plunging or drain rodding is often enough to loosen the blockage. You can also purchase a range of different drain-unblocking liquids that you simply pour down the drain and leave to break up the blockage," she adds.

Inside the home, you may also want to try the different methods for unblocking a sink without a plunger. or even investing in a drain snake, so that you have the necessary tools in place for when the water builds up.

However, if you've tried all of these methods and the problem still exists, the chances are you will need to call in a plumber or drainage expert to do a more thorough investigation.

Tools and products for dealing with drainage problems

2. Cracked or fractured pipes

Although issues such as cracks or fractures are more easy to spot in downpipes and gutters, with the obvious signs being water flowing outside of the pipes, in underground pipes, they may not be as easy to identify.

Usually caused by wear and tear, "the issues are most commonly found near the pipe joints," says Natalie Mitchell. "However, they can sometimes occur further down the pipework, leading to small leaks and some structural damage if they’re not dealt with quickly.

"If you believe your pipework may have some leaks, it's best to get a CCTV drain survey from a professional drain company," she advises. "This is where the engineer will send a small camera through the pipes to identify where the issue is and how bad the problem is. They will then be able to use some patch lining to repair the fractured or cracked areas."

3. Broken or displaced joints

"One of the most regular issues I see is poor surface water management," says Aaron Willcox. And, while measures such as installing French drains can help to ensure water drains away, if it's left to continue permeating into the ground, it can eventually put pressure onto your drainage pipes, leading them to break, or joints to become displaced.

As with cracks and fractures, this can lead to leaks which can cause structural damage to your property and impact your garden. In worst cases, it will also lead to flooding if the pipe eventually breaks completely.

"Unfortunately, these types of problems can only be dealt with by a professional," warns Natalie Mitchell.

"Broken pipes will sometimes be fixed by digging up the ground, pulling out the affected pipes, and replacing them. In cases where excavation isn't possible, drain relining will be used to line the pipes," she explains, "effectively fixing the breakage issues."

4. Collapsed pipes

"A collapsed pipe is a major problem as this will mean that wastewater isn’t leaving the property," says Natalie Mitchell. "Instead, this wastewater seeps into the surrounding areas. which can cause many problems."

These can range from water collecting outside and around your home which may attract rats and other pests. Once it infiltrates inside, you're at risk of developing damp and mould on your floors and walls. Worst case, it could even lead to subsidence or result in a sinkhole appearing on your land.

For a problem this serious, it's imperative that you call in a drainage specialist say the experts. They will need to conduct a drain survey to establish the cause of the problem and find out how to fix it.

"There are two types of repairs that are likely in the case of broken or collapsed pipes," says Natalie. "These are drain excavation or drain relining. This type of problem needs to be dealt with quickly, and many companies will offer a 24-hour emergency service for this type of issue, and most will be with you within an hour of your call."

5. Root infiltrations

For older properties or those built on mature land, nature may also play a part in causing drainage problems. In the same way that the roots of plants such as invasive bamboo can burrow their way into your home, tree roots can also interfere with your drainage pipework.

Why? Not least of all because nature usually takes its own route, but also because your pipes will generally contain water – the one thing the roots are searching for.

"They will usually penetrate through the pipework joints, but sometimes, they can push a hole into the pipe material," explains Natalie Mitchell. "This can cause bad smells and may result in wastewater seeping out. The penetrating roots may also cause slow blockages as debris builds up at the root."

As with several of the more serious drainage problems, it's another instance when you will need to call in a professional to conduct a drainage survey. The likely outcome? Worst case you will be looking at excavating the ground to remove the roots and install new piping. If however the problem is minor, high pressure flushing or jetting may be enough to break the new root growth off and clean any small blockages.

While those homeowners with off-mains drainage systems will naturally be responsible for any drainage problems related to septic tanks or sewage treatment works, it's understandable you might wonder if you are totally responsible for all drainage problems if you are connected to mains drainage?

"Generally, the pipes on your property fall under your responsibility and are yours to pay for and maintain," says Aaron Willcox. This includes fixing and paying for any drainage problems. "However, any lateral drain which is a drain that carries wastewater to the mains sewer, is the responsibility of your water company," he advises.

These drains usually fall outside your property's boundaries, but make sure you are up to speed on all the rules and regulations surrounding shared drains, so you know who is responsible for fixing any drainage problems that may arise in the future.

Mention lead pipes and my first thought is of the Cluedo murder weapon – something from a bygone era when guests wandered through grand country houses with billiard rooms and libraries, plotting the demise of poor Dr Black. In other words, lead piping feels like a relic of centuries past – hardly something you’d expect to find lurking in modern homes.

And yet, you may still encounter them. "Before 1970, lead pipework was commonly used to connect properties to the mains water network," a spokesperson from the Government's Drinking Water Inspectorate told us. "The use of lead pipes has since been banned, however many older properties that have not been modernised are likely to have lead pipework underground and/or inside the building."

If you do have lead piping, tiny amounts of lead could be infiltrating your drinking water supply and causing long-term health damage. That's why it's always a good idea to check if you have any lead piping, particularly if you live in an older property. We've asked the experts to explain how to recognise lead pipes and the process of replacing them.

The history of lead pipes

"Lead pipework was commonly used before the 1970s for incoming water supplies from the pavement into properties," explains Scott Hunter, co-owner of Hunter Heating Solutions and Checkatrade Plumber of the Year 2024. "In most cases, a single continuous lead pipe would run from the external stopcock in the pavement to the internal stopcock inside the house. This method was popular at the time because it required no joints, saved installation time, and the pipe’s flexibility made it easy to bend around corners."

"Lead was used traditionally as a material becuase it is tough but malleable and easy to bend and fashion into water pipes," adds Jess Thomas, managing director at Drainage Central. "Lead is also long lasting and resists the corrosion caused by water, and as it has a low melting point, it could even be fabricated on site if needed."

How to identify lead pipes in your home

"Most 1920-1970 houses will originally have an incoming cold mains lead supply," says Scott Hunter. "A good place to start is to locate the stopcock inside your property. In many cases, a lead mains pipe would run right up the stopcock. They are usually a dark grey pipe, around 18-25mm in diameter." You'll typically find your stockcock (also known as a stop tap) under your kitchen sink, or in a downstairs bathroom.

"You may also notice a distinctive, swollen, egg-shaped joint where the lead pipe transitions to copper or brass just before the stopcock," Scott points out. "If you gently scratch the surface of the lead pipe with a coin, a shiny metal should appear beneath it. On the other hand, if the pipe is covered in blue plastic, it’s likely that a newer MDPE pipe has already been installed."

"There are several ways you can check if your pipes are made from lead," agrees Jess, who explains what to look for:

• Colour: "Unpainted lead pipes will be dull grey in colour."
• Joints: "The joints of lead pipes are rounded and swollen where the pipes meet."
• Scratch test: "When a lead pipe is scratched, the metal underneath will be shiny and silver."
• Sound: -"When tapped, lead makes a dull thud, compared to copper or iron that will make a clear ringing sound."
• Building date: "Homes that were built before 1970 are more likely to have lead pipes than those built afterwards."

How does the lead in pipes contaminate the water?

The most common way for lead to contaminate your water supply is that lead from the pipework dissolves into the water whilst it stands in the pipe.

"A less common cause of lead in drinking water is the illegal use of lead-based solder to join sections of copper pipe," says the Drinking Water Inspectorate. "Lead solder is still permitted for use in closed central heating systems and mistakes occasionally happen whereby unqualified plumbers or householders use lead solder on drinking water pipes. Older brass fittings can also be a source of lead."

This contamination can be exacerbated by a few things, such as the condition of the lead pipework, and warmer temperatures – an increase in heat in the summer months can cause more lead to dissolve. Also, disturbing or working on lead pipes can also cause the concentration of lead in drinking water to temporarily increase.

Conversely, if you live in a hard water area, the limescale in the water can actually form a coating on the pipes, preventing the lead from dissolving into the water supply.

Health risks associated with lead exposure

According to the DWI, taking in these tiny lead deposits can cause mental impairments in unborn babies, infants and children, and impair kidney, heart and circulatory health in adults.

The NHS states on its NHS Inform website that: "exposure to lead can be harmful especially to unborn babies and young children. Infants and young children absorb a greater proportion of ingested lead than adults."

They state that the signs and symptoms in young children can include: "Irritability and fatigue, loss of appetite and weight loss, abdominal pain, vomiting, constipation, hearing loss, developmental delay and learning difficulties."

Symptoms in adults can include: "High blood pressure, abdominal pain, constipation, joint and muscle pain, pain, numbness or tingling of the extremities, headaches, fatigue and memory loss."

But they are at pains to point out that exhibiting these symptoms doesn't necessarily mean you have lead poisoning – and you should go to your GP if you have any concerns.

Testing your water for lead

If you suspect you have lead pipes, you should immediately contact your water supplier. They may be able to provide a free lead test and advise you on ways to reduce lead in your water supply. If you're in Scotland, for example, you can call the Scottish Water helpline on 0800 0778778 and organise for a water sample to be taken from your property free of charge. Or at Anglian Water you can call the Lead Advice Line on 0345 070 3445 to book a free lead test or use the online form.

Anglian Water tests for lead by taking four samples:

1. A spot sample from your kitchen tap, without flushing it
2. After running your tap for two minutes, a 'flushed sample' will be taken
3. After waiting a further 30 minutes, a 'stagnation sample' is taken
4. Lastly, they will take a fourth sample from your boundary box outside your property (if your property has one)

The samples are sent off to a lab, with the results usually expected within 10 working days. The water company will then advise next steps, including the replacement of pipework.

"Where a risk of lead exists, water companies sometimes treat the water with orthophosphate to reduce the problem significantly," says the Drinking Water Inspectorate. "None the less, particles of lead may build up in these older pipes and intermittently appear in tap water."

How to reduce lead exposure

"In the short term, flushing the pipework, before using for drinking or cooking, will help to reduce lead concentrations in the water," says the Drinking Water Inspectorate spokesperson we contacted. "This is because lead is picked up in the water as it comes into contact with the lead pipework and it has been standing in the pipework for a length of time, such as overnight, the lead concentration will be higher."

To clear your system, running around a washing-up bowl's worth of water should be enough. You can always use this water to clean your car, but not for watering plants or filling a bird bath. If you're still unsure, keep your fingers under the tap as it runs and wait for the temperature to change slightly – this signals that fresh and not standing water is coming from the mains.

"But the only sure way to remove lead from your water supply is to remove the lead pipework, including any lead solder, from your home and replace this with new plastic or copper pipework," say the Drinking Water Inspectorate.

What to do if you have lead pipes

"If you suspect that you have lead pipes, you should contact your local water board as a matter of urgency," says Jess at Drainage Central. "They will likely come out to test the pipes."

"If it turns out that your supply pipe is lead, most water suppliers offer a Lead Replacement Scheme," says Scott Hunter. You can usually apply for this online or by calling your supplier directly. However, you will normally need to arrange and pay for a contractor – ideally a WRAS Approved contractor – to install new pipework up to your property boundary. The water supplier will then connect it to the pipes under your nearest pavement."

Working with your local water utility company

"If the pipes are found to be lead, they may have a replacement scheme that can replace the pipes for free or at a reduced cost," reiterates Jess Thomas. However, this will vary depending on your supplier, and in researching this article, we found that very few 'full replacement' schemes are available (see below)

"The pipework between the water main and the property is called the supply pipe. This supply pipe is made up of the communication pipe and the service pipe," explains the Drinking water inspectorate. "The communication pipe connects into the water main and normally runs to the property boundary. It is the responsibility of the water supplier. The service pipe is the responsibility of the property owner and runs between the communication pipe and into the property, where it connects to the internal pipework."

While previously, you may have been able to access grants to replace both parts of the pipework, nowadays, most water companies will only fund and replace what's known as the 'communication pipe'. However, it's best to contact your water company directly to find out what support is available.

Affinity Water, for example, which supplies water to more than 3.9 million people across parts of Bedfordshire, Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Essex, Hertfordshire, Surrey, London and Kent, is currently undertaking a targeted programme replacing the lead pipes in streets. However, like most water suppliers, it deems that the section of pipe from your boundary to your house and all internal pipes are your responsibility to replace.

"If you live within our supply area, Affinity Water advises that any replacement of a lead supply pipe should be carried out by an approved plumber and must comply with the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999," Eddie Lintott, Head of Water Quality & Scientific Services at Affinity Water told us.

"This is the legal duty of the owner, occupier, installer, or plumber to make sure the regulations are met and won’t have an impact on the quality of your water. For more advice on this, please visit Water Regs UK," he explains.

Selected lead pipe replacement schemes

For a limited period Bristol Water is offering to visit your home and check whether you have a lead supply pipe, and if it finds it is made of lead, replace it at no cost to you.

Northumbrian Water is also running a scheme whereby it will replace lead supply pipes running into your home for free. You will be contacted by email or letter automatically if you are eligible.

If your home is supplied by a lead pipe, Yorkshire Water will replace the pipework in the public highway under its lead renewal scheme. This covers the lead pipework from the public water main in your street up to the boundary of your property, and you'll need to apply online for the work to be done.

Severn Trent previously offered a full pipe replacement grant scheme, but stopped accepting new applications in January 2025. However, it will replace your connection pipe under its new Lead Replacement Scheme.

Thames Water will not replace what it calls 'supply pipes' but it will replace your connection pipe from your home's supply pipe to the mains, provided you meet its criteria To apply, you must fill in this online form.

United Utilities will replace the 'supply pipe' from your property boundary provided you meet certain criteria.

FAQs

How can I tell if I have lead pipes?

"First things first, do you know when your home was built? If it was built before 1970, you may have lead pipes in your plumbing system," says Eddie Lintott, Head of Water Quality & Scientific Services at Affinity Water. "You can check by looking at the section of pipe leading from your stop tap or water meter into your property."

"Lead pipes are normally dark grey in colour, but if gently scraped, shiny silver-coloured marks appear," Eddie explains. "They’re generally thicker than other metallic pipe materials and are also easier to scratch using a coin."

If you have lead pipes, there will be a swollen joint next to the stop tap connection. If you are unable to see any lead pipework, there may still be a hidden or underground section which is lead, or lead solder joining copper pipework.If you're unsure, ask an approved plumber to carry out this check for you.

We recommend using a Watersafe-approved plumber, who will follow Water Fittings Regulations, protecting your drinking water from contamination and costly mistakes.

Is it safe to drink water from lead pipes?

No. Lead has been proven to cause health issues – and is particularly dangerous to infants and pregnant women, causing issues with developmental and physical health.

How can I test my water for lead?

Typically, it's best that you contact your local water supplier and they will test your supply for you for free. You could ask your plumber to run a test, but they must use a certified laboratory-provided sample bottle.

Besides, if your plumber confirms there are traces of lead in your supply, it's likely your local water supplier will want to retest anyway. Therefore, it makes the most sense to contact the supplier in the first instance.

What should I do if my water contains lead?

If your water contains lead, you should immediately take short-term precautions such as running the tap for a few minutes before taking drinking water from it.

As soon as possible, contact your water supplier to find out what pipes they can replace and what grants are available, and then arrange for all lead pipes to be removed and substituted for safe copper and plastic pipes.

Does my water utility replace lead pipes?

"The support available to consumers varies according to their water supplier and they should contact them in the first instance if they would like to find out," says the Drinking Water Inspectorate spokesperson we contacted.

In researching this article however, the 'norm', at least in England, Scotland and Wales, seems to be that the water company will usually replace mains and connection pipes, but you will have to foot the bill for the service and internal pipes on your property.

With textured wall finishes on the rise, more and more people are wondering how to limewash their walls – and whether it’s really possible to achieve a professional look by doing it yourself.

While it does require a fair amount of prep to avoid streakiness and around four coats to achieve full coverage, the good news is that limewash paint is relatively easy to apply and can produce fantastic results.

To learn how to limewash your walls, follow our experts’ step-by-step guide below. It covers everything you need to get started – including the best products, how to prep, and whether you can create a similar effect using regular emulsion paint.

How to limewash walls (traditional method)

Traditional limewash is a breathable eco paint made from slaked lime and water, and it has a purposely uneven, tonal finish. Here's how to apply it, according to Samantha-Jane Agbontaen, Interior Designer & Founder of House Designer:

1. Prepare the surface
   The key to limewash is breathability. The wall should be clean, matt, and free of synthetic coatings such as vinyl or acrylic paint. Limewash bonds best to porous materials like plaster, brick, or lime render. For new plaster, allow it to cure fully, then lightly dampen the surface with clean water before applying.
   
2. Mix the limewash
   Use matured lime putty and dilute it with clean water in roughly one part lime to two parts water. Stir until it has a smooth, milk-like consistency. For better durability, especially in high-traffic areas, you can add a little casein (a natural milk protein binder).
   
3. Apply the first coat
   Use a wide, natural bristle brush and apply in irregular, cross-hatched strokes rather than straight lines. The beauty of limewash lies in its movement and variation. The first coat will look uneven, which is completely normal. Allow it to dry for 24 hours in a well-ventilated space.
   
4. Build the layers
   Apply two or three thin coats, allowing each one to dry completely before the next. You can adjust the water ratio depending on how soft or opaque you want the finish to be. To add depth, natural pigments can be mixed in, but always test a small section first, as limewash lightens as it dries.
   
5. Finishing and maintenance
   Once the final coat is dry, leave it untouched for a few days to allow the lime to carbonate fully. This creates the characteristic chalky patina that softens over time. Unlike paint, limewash doesn’t peel; it simply ages gracefully, which is part of its charm. For maintenance, brush off dust gently and refresh with another coat when needed.

Shop these limewash essentials

How to limewash walls (paint method)

If you want to achieve a limewash finish but don’t fancy the mess that comes with it, you can create a similar effect using emulsion paint. This is a great choice for walls that aren’t very porous and is more forgiving than putty if you make a mistake.

Victoria Yardley, Founder of Victory Colours, shows you how to do it:

1. Prepare your surface
   Remove debris, dirt and grease from your walls.
   
2. Choose two complementary tones
   One colour should be slightly lighter than the other one.
   
3. Paint your base coat
   Apply the darker of the two colours evenly and let it dry completely.
   
4. Apply your “limewash” layer
   Use a large brush, sponge, or soft cloth to lightly apply the lighter shade, working in irregular, criss-cross strokes. Don’t overwork it – the charm is in the variation.
   
5. Feather the edges
   While still slightly damp, gently blend with a clean, dry brush to soften transitions and add that dreamy, mottled texture.
   
6. Stand back and admire
   The result should look layered and natural, like sunlight playing across plaster.

Our favourite faux limewash picks

If you're planning to give traditional limewash a try, Ian Masonbury, Brand Director at Armourcoat warns, "Having a precise understanding of moisture levels, application thickness, surface porosity, and timing is essential. If any of these are overlooked, the finish will invariably end up being patchy and unstable.”

Before you get started, it's worth learning about the different types of paint and what they're used for. And if you're puzzled by the price gap between premium paints and their retail equivalents, we've also answered whether expensive paint is really worth it.

If you’re looking for the answer to what is insulated plasterboard you’re in the right place. In easy-to-understand terms, it’s a smart, dual-purpose material that combines plasterboard and insulation into one neat package. It's ideal for retrofits, renovations and conversions.

Once fitted, you can select any type of plaster to finish, ready for painting or wallpapering. Here, we briefly explore what it is, examine the science behind the insulation, discuss the different types, look at the popular choices, and identify which is the most cost-effective option.

What is insulated plasterboard?

The term insulated plasterboard (sometimes also called thermal plasterboard) refers to a specific type of plasterboard and insulation. Thomas Oldham, Co-founder of UK Construction Blog shares a brief explanation, “Insulated plasterboard is a combination of standard plasterboard with a layer of insulation bonded to the back.”

He adds, “It gives you a smooth, ready-to-finish surface while helping to keep your home warmer, all without losing much room space. It’s an excellent way to boost energy efficiency when you don’t have the depth for traditional insulation.”

Tom Hall, Category executive at Kingfisher Direct, points out, “It significantly reduces installation times and provides cost-saving benefits by preventing the separate installation of plasterboard and insulation.”

Try these insulated plasterboard options

The science behind the insulation

The integrated insulation layer in insulated plasterboard is where the magic happens, as Hall explains, “PIR insulation reduces the transfer of heat through a building's structure due to its closed-cell structure that creates a barrier preventing the movement of heat through the material.”

He adds, “The foam contains small interconnected cells that contain air or gas. This air serves as a thermal barrier, creating a resistance when heat tries to pass through the insulation”.

The same principle applies to EPS (Expanded Polystyrene) and phenolic foam. In simple terms, all three options keep the warmth in during colder months and the heat out during warmer months.

Oldham adds, “Phenolic foam tends to offer the best insulation for its thickness, while PIR and EPS strike a solid balance between cost and performance.”

Key benefits of insulated plasterboard

Whatever type of insulated plasterboard is being used, it offers many benefits, some more obvious than others.

Energy efficient

Oldham says, “From experience, the main benefits of insulated plasterboard are its practicality and efficiency. It makes a noticeable difference to indoor comfort and helps reduce heating bills.” It directly addresses heat loss through walls (up to 25%).

Hall reinforces the point, “Insulated plasterboard has higher thermal efficiency as it traps heat, which helps to keep your home warmer in the cold weather. This reduces the reliance on heating systems, lowering energy usage and the cost of bills”.

In addition, it will help eliminate drafts and cold spots.

Easier installation

Hall says, “Due to its two-in-one nature, it’s much easier to install than separate layers of plasterboard and insulation.” He adds, “Simplified installation makes it a much more cost-effective choice due to reduced labour costs, as well as lower material costs.”

Typically, you’ll only need screws and a drill to fix. Alternatively, a grab adhesive can be used for a quick and easy installation.

Space saver

The combination of plasterboard and insulation, or just insulation, can make it a real space-saving option. Hall says, “It eliminates the requirement for a separate layer of insulation, which can be highly beneficial in smaller properties where space is limited.”

Types of insulated plasterboard

PIR plasterboard

PIR (Polyisocyanurate) plasterboard is the insulated plasterboard commonly associated with the term. It boasts a rigid foam board that provides high thermal efficiency. This is typically bonded to the back of standard gypsum plasterboard.

This creates a thinner profile, often 37.5mm thick with board and foam. Some PIR boards are faced with foil to improve insulation and act as a vapour control barrier. Typically more expensive than other types, such as EPS.

EPS insulated plasterboard

Expanded Polystyrene plasterboard is similar to PIR plasterboard. Instead of a rigid foam backing, it uses an expanded polystyrene backing that is bonded to gypsum plasterboard. It’s a versatile product that is good for larger areas and is typically cheaper than PIR board.

Phenolic foam

Phenolic foam is a board made from a rigid, closed-cell insulation material. It has high thermal efficiency and typically features foil on both sides to protect the insulation from moisture. Unlike PIR and EPS, it is not bonded to gypsum plasterboard. It comes in various thicknesses and can be more expensive than PIR and EPS depending on the chosen thickness.

Moisture resistant boards

Insulated plasterboard and board include a foil backing to provide a vapour barrier, helping keep the insulation dry and combating moisture and condensation at the same time.

Applications of insulated plasterboard

Insulated plasterboard and its variants are versatile and can be used almost anywhere in a home. Oldham points out a few of its typical uses: “I recommend using insulated plasterboard on internal walls, ceilings, and loft conversions.”

He adds, “But it’s equally useful for garages, garden offices, or extensions that need better temperature control.”

However, depending on what type of insulated plasterboard you are using, it can be used elsewhere, as Hall shares, “It can be used to line external brick walls due to their poor insulating properties.” This makes it ideal for older properties or single-skim walls that lack good insulation.

Hall adds, “They can also be used internally to line floors, walls and ceilings. In particular, they are popular for lining walls and ceilings in loft conversions due to their thinner profile that helps to maximise space”.

Considerations for Installation

When installing insulated or thermal plasterboard, there are a few simple considerations to keep in mind.

Thickness of board

In simple terms, the thicker the insulation, the more efficient it will be. But this depends on the type of board being used. PIR board commonly uses 25mm insulation, while EPS and Phenolic foam board can be purchased in various depths from 25mm to 100mm.

The thicker the board, the more space it will take up in a room; this is especially important to note if indoors.

Cutting and installation

To cut plasterboard, you will need a long, straight edge and a sharp utility knife (like this Amazon Basics Durable Folding Utility Knife). Use this to score the board and finish with a saw. You can use a hand saw or a jigsaw (like this Bosch Home and Garden Jigsaw from Amazon) to cut the board and the insulation.

Installation depends on the surface it is being attached to. The dot-and-dab method or a suitable adhesive are common choices for block walls. If attaching to timber, use plasterboard screws.

Continuous vapour barrier

When using foil-backed or covered board, gaps between fitted boards will allow moisture to seep in. To stop this happening, you will need to use an insulation seam tape like this Gladiator Aluminium Tape from Amazon.

The beauty of insulating plasterboard is that you can finish putting it up in double quick time. Once installed, it’s time for the next steps. Find out how long it takes t plaster a room, before you think about painting new plaster and choosing the right wallpaper tools to finish a room.

As autumn weather sweeps across the UK, keeping gutters clean has never been more important.

Homes with blocked or poorly maintained gutters are at higher risk of leaks, damp, and water damage, and new data shows that where you live can make a big difference in how vulnerable your property is this season.

The latest “Gutter Risk Index” from Eurocell has ranked towns and cities across the UK by combining factors such as rainfall, housing age, and tree cover to find out where properties face the greatest threat from overflowing or damaged gutters.

Where in the UK is most at risk?

The research reveals a clear regional pattern: northern and Welsh cities dominate the top of the list.

At the other end of the scale, towns with newer homes and modern drainage infrastructure - such as Milton Keynes, Peterborough, and Reading - recorded some of the lowest risk scores in the country.

How the data was gathered

To create the rankings, analysts compared multiple environmental and housing metrics for major UK towns and cities. These included:

• Average annual rainfall and storm frequency
• Local tree coverage levels
• Age and construction type of housing stock
• Exposure to coastal or maritime weather systems

Each factor contributed to an overall “Gutter Risk Index” score out of 100. By combining this information, researchers were able to highlight where overflowing or damaged guttering is most likely to occur, and how regional weather patterns amplify the problem.

This data-driven approach aims to raise awareness of a seasonal maintenance issue that often goes unnoticed until expensive repairs are needed.

What the data really reveals about UK homes

Beyond the rankings, the figures highlight how weather, housing age and city design combine to shape hidden risks across the UK.

Northern and Welsh cities like Preston, Swansea and Cardiff top the list not just because of rainfall, but because many of their homes were built before modern drainage became standard.

Meanwhile, newer towns such as Milton Keynes and Peterborough rank among the least affected, thanks to updated planning reforms and newer housing stock that channels rainwater more effectively.

However, tree-lined cities - including Manchester, Bradford and parts of London - it was found saw a higher risk of leaf build-up as the report stated: “Liverpool, Wigan, Stoke-on-Trent, Bradford and Manchester face increased risk from dense tree cover and persistent rain, while London boroughs including Westminster, Islington and Bexley feature because of their mature trees and older properties without modern drainage systems.”

As Helen Godsiff, Brand Manager at Eurocell, put it: “Our analysis shows that simple seasonal upkeep is becoming more important as weather patterns shift and homes age. It’s not just about rain - it’s about how well our properties are prepared for it.”

The data ultimately suggests that the UK’s biggest maintenance risk may not be the weather itself, but how ready our homes are to handle it.

Blocked gutters can be the cause of untold damage in the autumn and winter with blocked leaves and debris quickly preventing them from doing their job. And as well as causing problems in your home, they can also affect your neighbour's property too.

But, could there be a relatively quick, easy and cheap DIY gutter hack that could solve your gutter cleaning problems instantly?

I was sent one which piqued my interest, not least of all because the email claimed it only cost 50p. Intrigued? I was too, which is why I asked a roofing expert if this gutter hack is all it's cracked up to be, or if it's one to steer clear of.

What is the 50p gutter hack?

According to Glen Peskett, a DIY expert at Saxton Blades we could all be missing a trick when it comes to gutter protection.

"Homeowners often wait until it’s too late," says Glen. "They see a few leaves on their roof and think nothing of it, but they don't realise the debris is slowly forming a major blockage that could lead to a disastrous leak." It can even lead to abatement notices and fines if the water damages your neighbour's home too.

According to Glen, a crucial part of this pre-autumn check is to assess your property’s exterior for small issues before they become huge problems. This is where Glen says the 50p hack can save you money as it works by stopping leaves from getting into your gutter from the off.

So what is this magical trick?

It's simply a gutter guard made using a roll of plastic mesh from a DIY store, such as this Garden Netting from Amazon, and some cable ties. Heavy duty ones like the Oksdown 100 Pack Black Plastic Cable Ties fom Amazon would be necessary in an outdoor environment.

Once you have the products, it's as simple as taking the following steps says Glen:

• Step 1: Cut the mesh to fit the length of your gutter
• Step 2: Lay the mesh over the top of the guttering
• Step 3: Use a couple of cable ties to secure the mesh in place. The leaves will sit on top of the mesh and blow away in the wind, while water can still pass through freely

Is the hack a help or a hindrance?

If this gutter hack sounds too easy and good to be true, it's probably because it is.

For a start, the maths doesn't quite work out, with the roll of plastic mesh costing £5.99 and large cable ties (necessary to fit around the width of a gutter) coming in at a similar price, there's no way this gutter hack costs 50p. Maybe 50p per metre at a push, but certainly not for all the gutters on your house.

There are also pre-existing gutter guards that can be installed onto your gutter such as these INEFA Drain Cover Leaf Guards from Amazon, which are undoubtedly more fit for purpose than this hack.

But what about the practical and safety elements of it? Do they stand up in the opinion of a roofing expert, or is it a hack that's best resigned to the same place as your gutter debris – the rubbish bin?

"I don't know how you would do it for that price," says Mike Storey, roofing expert at UKFR Roofing & Insulation, "and I don't really agree that it's the best route forward," he adds.

"While you could in theory create a gutter guard in this way, it's not an alternative to clearing your gutters once a year, as even with mesh in place, they will still fill with smaller bits and become blocked," says Mike.

"In reality, this actually makes it harder to clean them," he warns, "as you would also have to cut them off every year in order to clean your gutters correctly.

"If you have a heavy leaf area under trees, then I can understand why you might consider it," he says, "but it still won't change the need to clean them. Plus, the fact it won't stop smaller debris – which is usually what builds up, rather than leaves that normally just blow out – makes it feel like a fix that just isn't worth it," he concludes.

Gutter cleaning alternatives

So, if the gutter hack us a no-no, how best can you tackle dirt and debris in gutters?

For a start, there are some recommended gutter cleaning products which include pre-made gutter guards that can prevent some dirt and debris from entering the drainpipe.

"There are products such as gutter brushes" says Mike Storey, including ones like the FloPlast Black Gutter guard which can be fitted to most gutters to prevent leaves and debris building up, "but I personally have never been a fan," states Mike.

"But, these would still be a better idea than the 50p gutter hack in my opinion," he concurs, "as at least they can be taken out and cleaned more easily."

Ideally, you need to get to the gutter in question from a ladder and clean it out, says Mike. "But if you're not comfortable with a ladder, you might be able to use a long hose attachment, or if you have a pressure washer, an attachment for that such as the Tool Daily Pressure Washer Extension Wand from Amazon," he suggests.

"Just ensure to block off the end drain so you can remove the debris that comes from the downpipes without it then blocking the drain," he adds.

Shop gutter cleaning and guard products

Prefer to get the professionals in rather than cleaning your gutters yourself? Find out how much you can expect to pay for gutter cleaning costs, and if they've been damaged or are in need of replacement, head to our article on gutter replacement costs for more information

Roll-on plaster for walls has become a popular choice for DIYers and professionals seeking a faster way to achieve a smooth, even finish.

While it can save time and reduce mess compared with traditional skimming, it is not suitable for every wall or condition.

Knowing when it works well, and the common mistakes that can lead to poor adhesion, uneven surfaces, or ruined finishes, is essential before starting to plaster walls.

What is roll-on plaster?

Roll-on plaster is a type of wall coating that comes pre-mixed and ready to use.

It is applied directly to walls with a roller, similar to painting, rather than using a trowel like traditional plaster.

Depending on how it is applied, it can create smooth, textured, or patterned finishes, giving walls a finished look in a single layer.

Best roll-on plasters

When to use roll-on plaster for walls

Roll-on plaster for walls works best on large, flat surfaces where a smooth finish is required. It is particularly useful in living rooms, bedrooms, and other interior spaces where aesthetics matter.

Professional decorator Mike Cupit, who has over 20 years of experience, explains: "Using roll-on filler to skim a wall is quick, easy, and gives a great result. It's a lot cheaper than hiring a plasterer, and you’ll have a full room skimmed in no time."

Roll-on plaster for walls is also ideal for covering textured surfaces such as Artex, providing a uniform, modern finish.

Shop plaster rollers

When not to use roll-on plaster for walls

Despite its advantages, roll-on plaster for walls is not suitable for every situation. Avoid using it on:

• Surfaces with structural issues, such as deep cracks or loose plaster.
• Areas with high moisture levels, including bathrooms or kitchens, where the plaster may not adhere properly or could deteriorate.

Architect and TV presenter Charlie Luxton advises: "Before applying any plaster, you need to make sure the walls are dry, stable, and free from structural defects. Roll-on plaster is fantastic for interiors, but moisture-prone rooms can compromise the finish."

Using roll-on plaster on unsuitable surfaces can increase the cost when plastering a wall.

Tips when using roll-on plaster for walls

Charlie Luxton and other UK decorating professionals emphasise preparation and the right tools:

• Preparation is key: Clean and sand walls thoroughly to remove dust and debris for proper adhesion.
• Use the right tools: A quality filling blade and roller help spread the plaster evenly.
• Control the environment: Keep room temperature consistent and avoid high humidity during application and drying.
• Finishing touches: Lightly sand the surface once dry to remove imperfections before painting.

Luxton adds: “For minor cracks and chips, I always recommend a roll-on plaster - it’s applied with a roller to smooth the wall.”

Mike Cupit adds: "For the best finish, I recommend a Prep Alu Flex Skimming Blade and sealing the surface with Zinsser Gardz before painting to prevent dusting and ensure better paint adhesion."

FAQs

Q: Can I use roll-on plaster in bathrooms?
A: No. High humidity can compromise adhesion and durability.

Q: How long does roll-on plaster take to dry?
A: Typically 8 hours, but this can vary depending on room temperature and humidity.

Q: Can I paint directly over roll-on plaster for walls?
A: Yes, after drying and light sanding, apply a mist coat before your chosen paint.

Roll-on plaster for walls provides a practical and efficient way to achieve smooth, professional-looking walls without hiring a plasterer.

By following verified expert advice and understanding where and when to use it, you can transform your home interiors with minimal effort.

Always check wall conditions and the specific needs of each room before starting to ensure flawless results.

If you’ve ever stood at the top of a staircase or leaned over a balcony, then you’ve already encountered the sort of situations that Approved Document K, or Part K of the building regulations, is designed to address.

Its purpose is to help reduce the risk of injury from falls, collisions and impacts – particularly in the everyday spaces people live, work, or visit.

Whether you’re building your own home or tackling a loft conversion, understanding Part K is vital, not just to stay on the right side of the law, but to also keep your homes safe.

What exactly does Part K cover?

Part K deals with how buildings should be designed and built to protect people from physical harm. The document is quite specific and sets out the minimum standards to reduce the risk of falls from height, accidents on stairs and ramps, collisions with glass, and injuries from things like low sills or badly designed railing. In short, it’s about creating an environment where people can move around safely.

The key areas Part K addresses include stair design and ramps, balconies and guarding, as well as windows and glazing. It also includes guidance about how to protect against impact with glass doors and walls, which are a common feature in contemporary self build homes.

Staircases, balustrades and ramps

1. Staircases

Whether you’re installing a new flight in a self build or changing the layout during a renovation, you’ll need to make sure the staircase idea meets the dimensional requirements set out within Part K.

For a standard staircase in a house, the minimum and maximum rise (vertical height of each step) should be 150mm to 220mm respectively, and the minimum and maximum depth, (going from front to back of each tread), should be 220mm to 300mm respectively. In addition the maximum allowable pitch of a residential staircase is no more than 42 degrees. The idea is to keep stairs safe by ensuring they’re not too steep, and have consistent sized steps throughout the flight.

Part K also covers the headroom above stairs, which needs to be at least 2 metres, which is considered essential for safety. People shouldn’t have to duck or risk banging their head when moving up or down a staircase, especially in an emergency. While there are a few exemptions, such as sloping ceilings, it’s quite common for this to get overlooked.

2. Handrails and balustrades

On any staircase with more than two risers, a handrail is required on at least one side, depending on its width. If the stairs are wider than a metre, handrails are required on both sides.

For landings, balcony ideas, or areas with a drop of more than 600mm, suitable guarding must be provided to prevent falls. This guarding needs to be a minimum of 900mm high on staircases and 1100mm high on landings or balconies. Gaps in the guarding should also be small enough to prevent a child from slipping through, so no opening should allow a sphere of 100mm diameter to pass.

Not surprisingly, this is where some self builders trip up. It’s easy to fall ‘head over heals’ for a minimalist staircase design, where there's little in the way of a balustrade. However, the rules state that staircases must be properly guarded and designed in line with Part K. Prioritising aesthetic design over functionality and not meeting the requirements could mean you’ll be forced to redo the work, or worse, face a fine or invalidated insurance claim if an accident occurs.

3. Ramps

The building regs has a wider requirement for accessibility, which may mean ramps are needed to gain access to a principal entrance which should have a level access threshold.

Part K sets limits on the steepness of these ramps, depending on how long they are. For example, a ramp that’s less than 2 metres long can be as steep as 1:12, but longer ramps need to be shallower, for example a 4m ramp can be 1:14.

As you’d expect, Part K also requires a ramp to be constructed from slip resistant materials to prevent falls, especially in wet and icy conditions.

Ramps must be provided with landings, at least to the top and bottom, and where there is a change in direction. Intermediate landings should be provided if the ramp is longer than 5m, and the length of the landing should be at least equal to its width. Part K also explains the requirements for handrails on ramps, but before you get too concerned, the requirements are for buildings other than dwellings.

Windows and glazing

When it comes to types of windows and glazing, Part K aims to prevent falls from height and injury due to collision. If a window is on an upper floor and the bottom of the opening is less than 800mm high, it must either have a restrictor to limit how far it opens, or it must be guarded in another way – perhaps with a balcony or railings on the outside. This is especially relevant in bedrooms on the first floor or above, where children might lean or climb out.

Another key area of Part K is the use of safety glazing. If glass is fitted in low-level positions, for example below 800mm from floor level), or near stairs and ramps, then the glass needs to be toughened or laminated to reduce the risk of serious injury if someone fell against it. Examples would be patio doors, glass balustrades or internal glazed screens which all must comply.

Why is compliance important?

First and foremost, compliance with Part K is about safety. Every year, thousands of people are injured by falls on stairs, from balconies, or falling through glazing. Many of those accidents happen in homes, and a significant number could be avoided with better design and compliance with the regulations. Furthermore, if you’re building or altering a home, the work must comply with the building regulations or you’ll risk enforcement action, fines, and problems if you sell it later on.

There’s also insurance implications. If someone is injured in your home due to a fall or collision, that could have been prevented with proper design and compliance with the regs, your insurance cover could be invalidated.

So, when replacing an old loft ladder with a proper staircase, because Part K sets out how steep that stair can be, how much headroom is needed, and what kind of handrail is required, undertake a proper survey to ensure these requirements can be met.

Even when installing French doors in a ground floor single storey extension, compliance with Part K is required for glazing below 800mm, so before you set about doing a bit of upcycling and bagging a bargain from eBay, check that the glazing is toughened or laminated so it will be safe in use.

Recent changes to Approved Document K

Part K hasn’t seen major changes in recent years, but it’s worth noting that Approved Document O, introduced in 2022 to address overheating, can sometimes overlap with Part K, particularly where window openings and safety considerations are concerned.

For example, if you’re replying on windows at first floor level or above, for purge ventilation, these windows must be guarded if their cill is below 1100mm. This requirement contradicts the 800mm minimum cill height stated in Part K. So it's easy to see a situation arising where a self builders could be asked by the building inspector for guarding to windows, even though Part K would seem not to require it.

Approved Document K is one of those parts of the building regulations that can easily be overlooked, but once you understand what it requires, it’s clear that it plays a vital role in keeping our homes safe.

Whether you’re building from scratch or altering an existing home, you’ll need to pay close attention to stairs, guarding and glazing to meet the regulations to keep everyone safe.

For more expert advice on meeting building regulations, make sure also read our guide to Approved Document P which sets out the electrical requirements you must adhere to. And, if a new build is on the cards, Approved Document A explains the important guidelines regarding the structure of your home.

No one wants wonky tiles and raised edges spoiling a beautiful-looking bathroom or kitchen wall. To prevent this, you need to start from the right place. Here, we examine a selection of smart solutions for tiling an uneven wall, some of which are quicker, simpler, and less expensive than others.

The current state of the wall being tiled will have a significant impact on how to tile a wall. Small imperfections can be easily remedied with preparation and a little extra adhesive. Bigger issues will need the intervention of some specialist DIY skills and extra materials and tools.

Assess tiling an uneven wall

There are different degrees of unevenness when it comes to walls; some are easier to deal with than others. The first step is to assess the unevenness of a wall.

This will determine what course of action needs to be taken. Still, as a general rule, it is not recommended to tile an uneven wall without the correct preparation, as Adam O’Malley, Operations Manager at Tile Mountain, shares, “According to BS EN 5385 Part 1:2018, the recognised code of practice for tiling, ‘The surface should be true such that, when checked with a 2m straightedge with 3mm thick feet at each end, the straightedge should not be obstructed by the background and no gap should be greater than 6mm.’

He adds, “If gaps exceed 3mm, local correction is required. That means any wall surface must be sufficiently flat, stable and upright before tiling can begin.”

Try these tools when tiling an uneven wall

Prepping an uneven wall

If the unevenness is only slightly off (and sits within the 6mm recommendation), you need to do some simple preparation before tiling. O’Malley recommends the following: “Check for loose plaster, flaky paint or any areas that need filling or repair. Scrape away any unstable material and ensure the wall is clean, dust-free and primed before progressing.”

Use a wall primer, like this Zinsser Gardz High Performance Sealer from Amazon to help seal walls and any patched areas.

Two ways to get a wall even

How you even up an uneven wall will depend on how uneven the wall is. Here, we examine two popular methods: one for slightly uneven walls and another for more challenging walls.

1. Skim the wall

If the variation in a wall is around 3-6mm, you can fill larger dips and finish with a skim coat of plaster as O’Malley shares, “A fresh skim coat provides a flat, secure base for tiling. However, whether to skim or fully replaster depends on the condition of the existing surface. If the backing plaster is sound, a skim may be sufficient. But if it’s crumbling or unstable, a full replaster might be the better option.”

It's worth noting that when plastering walls, the typical plaster depth of a skim coat is 1-2mm, so you may need to add a second skim coat to build up the plaster and achieve a more even finish.

2. Add plasterboard

If you have an uneven wall that exceeds the recommended 6mm, a quick and simple way to create a flat, even surface is to introduce plasterboard, shares O’Malley. “Dot and dab plasterboard is a popular solution for creating a level surface over uneven walls, but only if the original plaster is secure enough to support both the boards and the tiles. Done properly, it offers a fast and effective way to create a smooth surface for tiling.”

Once the plasterboard has been dried into place, you need to know how to skim a plasterboard wall to get the smooth finish you’ll need.

Where and how to start tiling

Before you start any tiling, ensure that your preparation is complete. O’Malley says, “Preparation is key. In addition to ensuring the wall is flat and primed, starting from a straight and level baseline is essential.”

When tiling a wall you need to pick the right start point, O’Malley says, “For best results, start from the centre or a prominent visual point and work outwards, making small adjustments as needed to maintain alignment.”

Small amounts of unevenness when adding tiles to a wall can be corrected with the smart use of tile adhesive. O’Malley explains, “Tiles should be fixed into a solid bed of adhesive and back buttering the tiles (applying adhesive directly to the tile as well as the wall) can help achieve full contact.”

He adds, “While the recommended adhesive bed is 3mm, the standard allows this to be built up to 6mm in isolated areas, but only as a minor correction, not a substitute for properly preparing the wall.”

FAQs

Is it better to use small or large tiles on an uneven wall?

Ideally, you want to get a wall as flat and level as possible to ensure you have a decent surface to tile. However, if you have an uneven wall, you can use almost any type or size of tile, but some work better than others. As O’Malley explains, “As long as the wall is properly prepared, either small or large tiles can be used.”

He continues, “That said, larger tiles tend to highlight surface irregularities more readily, so thorough preparation is even more critical.” He adds, “On the other hand, small-format tiles or mosaics are more forgiving on less-than-perfect surfaces.”

Can you tile over tiles?

Can you tile over tiles? This is a common question, and the simple answer is yes. In most cases, it's simply a matter of ensuring that the old tiles are level, free from dirt, debris, and grease, and securely in place. Before adding new tiles on top of old tiles, wash them down with a sugar soap solution.

However, if you have any loose tiles, fix them first, and ensure that any old, mouldy, or loose sealant is removed and the area is thoroughly cleaned. You will be adding a significant amount of extra weight, so you need to consider whether the substrate can handle it.

Typically, standard-sized tiles should be sufficient, while larger tiles may pose a problem. Check with a professional. Finally, you’ll be doubling the depth of the tile. Therefore, ensure that the extra depth doesn’t affect areas such as the top of a half-tile wall or skirting boards.

What size notched trowel do I need for wall tiles?

Notched trowels with 6mm or 8mm notches are the popular choice for standard-sized tiles. This spreads the tile adhesive to the right depth and leaves the right air gaps. For larger tiles, you will need larger notches to ensure you get the right level of adhesion. Typically, notches measuring 10-12mm are the preferred choice.

If you’re looking to tile a wall make sure to check out our bathroom tiling ideas and wet room ideas for insight and inspiration. And, don’t forget our practical How to fit tile trim to ensure you get clean neat looking edges where needed.

There are many reasons why you might be on the hunt for some flat roof porch ideas. Perhaps you want to add a fresh, modern element to the facade of your home, or maybe you are keen to incorporate a green roof into your house's design.

When it comes to porch ideas, there is such a huge range out there that there is no need to compromise, and including one of these structures will add so much to your home both in terms of character as well as when it comes to how you can use your entrance.

A flat roof porch will not only contribute to the overall kerb appeal of your home, but, designed well, will also provide shelter, additional lighting opportunities and even storage, as our collection shows.

1. Include plenty of glazing to allow natural light in

A flat roof extension can be the icing on the cake for a contemporary home, but this style of addition does have a tendency to let a little less light into the interior spaces beyond than pitched designs, which means more care needs to go into the size and positioning of glazing.

"When considering a flat roofed porch, you will want to consider this relative to the style of the house – the detailing will make the difference between something that looks like it was always there versus a clumsy addition," advises architect Tina Patel from Architect Your Home.

This striking contemporary home, designed by OB Architecture, incorporates plenty of full-height glazing at both the lower and upper storeys meaning the entrance hall is still flooded with light.

2. Incorporate the porch into the house design

Rather than viewing a porch as an afterthought, or an add-on, you should, ideally, see it as an integral element of the facade of your home and a crucial part of its kerb appeal.

If you are self building, carrying out extensive renovation work or even extending to the front of your house, you should carefully consider how you porch could become a part of the layout.

In this project, the porch has been incorporated as part of the house's frontage, with it being absorbed into the depth of the structure itself.

3. Build a balcony above a flat roof porch

As the weather gets warmer and a little more favourable in the UK, more and more homes are being designed with outdoor spaces that allow homeowners to enjoy the great outdoors – balconies included.

Including a flat roof porch into the design of your home presents the ideal opportunity for building a balcony, providing you account for the additional load in the structural calculations.

You will also need to think about the best flooring for a balcony – it should be non-slip, durable and easy to maintain.

4. Fit lighting into the underside of the porch

Just as with any kind of entrance, you need to consider your porch lighting ideas carefully, in tandem with the overall design of your home's frontage.

A flat roof porch presents the perfect opportunity to incorporate some lighting, most commonly in the form of recessed downlights, which keep the whole structure looking sleek and unfussy yet provide optimum illumination.

"The depth of the overhang on the roof of the porch should align with style of the house," advises Tina Patel. "You can really make a feature of this if you opt for something with integrated lights."

5. Bring in light with an open design

The beauty of flat roof porches is that they can allow for a little more creative licence in terms of entrance design ideas than pitched designs.

"An entrance porch should be considered as more than a simple addition to the building," says Dan Pyzer-Knapp, associate at OB Architecture. "When considered as part of a wider design of the home it can enhance the drama and wow-factor of the project through simple moves which also help ground the design into its contextual surroundings.

"An opening that frames the sky, or a colonnade that draws you into the home provide new ways of looking at spaces beyond, and greet your guests with intrigue and excitement for what is in store beyond the front door," adds Dan.

6. Add character with an oak frame porch

Oak frame porches are one of the best ways of injecting charm and character into all kinds of homes – self builds included.

While often designed with pitched roofs, there is a wide range of oak frame porch ideas to suit all kinds of properties and many are great examples of how flat roof porches are not just for modern homes.

"Flat roof porches can appear to be a quite a modern intervention, however done well they can suit period properties, such as Georgian and Edwardian," says Tina Patel. "Just be respectful to the materials used elsewhere in the architecture if adopting this type of porch for these properties."

7. Enjoy the benefits of a flat roof canopy

There are instances where simple front door canopy ideas can work better than a full blown porch.

"A canopy porch is a very lovely addition – they tend to be a shelter rather than anything more, and work equally well as shading as they do a shower screen," explains Merry Albright, creative director of Border Oak.

It is possible to buy flat roofed canopies in kit form, making them an affordable option. However, you need to ensure the design you opt for matches the style of your home perfectly if you want it to be a positive addition.

8. Match the internal cladding to the house

The last thing you want is for your porch to look like an afterthought and, for this reason, it really does pay to think about how the materials used in its design will sit alongside those that feature in your home elsewhere.

The underside of flat roofs is the perfect surface to clad in a material that mirrors those used for the walls of a house.

Along with the materials you use, do take time to consider how the design of the porch will sit alongside your existing home, particularly if your's is a period property.

"When choosing a flat roof instead of a pitched one, it’s usually because the house calls for it," explains Sergey Mashkov, construction designer at Sheds Unlimited. "Horizontal features, strong symmetry or, in some cases, just a necessity to keep things low and linear for the final appeal. A flat-roofed porch doesn’t compete for attention, but it does add to the complete style. In older homes, it can even help establish a modern touch."

9. Add a sedum roof to your porch

Green roofs not only look really attractive but they also come with a whole host of other benefits, including absorbing CO2 and replacing the ecology taken up by the building.

They don't have to be used for the entirety of the main roof either and can work brilliantly for flat roof porches, particularly given that they must be installed on roofs pitched at no more than 30°.

Of course, a green roof is just one option to consider.

"The roof can be finished in a number of ways and a lot of this will depend on cost, durability, and the style you are looking for," says Tina Patel. "A fibreglass GRP roof will give you a longer life than a felt one but will also increase costs."

10. Make drainage your priority

For any kind of flat roof to stand the test of time, drainage needs to be planned out carefully.

"The main thing to be concerned about here is drainage," confirms Dan Staupe, co-owner at Compass Exteriors. "If your porch roof is flat, how are you going to make sure the rainwater is getting properly drained? You want an appropriate slope for water run-off, lest you cause leaks and other types of water damage."

"Drainage from the roof and where the gutter will need to be positioned relative to the front door are important considerations," adds Tina Patel. "You will ideally want this to be discrete, but this will be dependent on the existing drainage runs."

FAQs

What are the advantages of a flat roof porch?

If you are still torn between a flat roof or pitched roof porch, you will no doubt be keen to understand the key benefits of a flat roof.

"A flat porch offers several advantages, such as using less materials, thus lowering porch costs," explains Constantine Anest, the owner of Ethos Roofing & Restoration. "Ease and speed of installation, as well as aesthetics and versatility are other pros."

Don't forget too that a flat roof porch gives you the chance to create a balcony above – plus they look far more modern for contemporary properties.

Struggling to choose between an enclosed or open porch? Both flat roof and pitched roof designs can be specified as either so make sure you know the difference.

Subsidence may be an invisible threat, but for thousands of UK homeowners, its consequences are anything but.

As shifting climate patterns drive more frequent periods of extreme heat and low rainfall, engineers and insurers are warning of increased ground movement in certain areas.

In response to growing demand for localised risk data, a new online tool has been launched to help homeowners better understand whether their postcode falls into a higher-risk zone for subsidence-related damage.

Regional exposure grows as weather extremes continue

Subsidence occurs when soil beneath a property loses moisture and contracts, often affecting homes built on clay.

When this happens, structures can shift unevenly, resulting in cracking walls, misaligned doors, and in severe cases, significant structural instability.

This year, conditions across much of the UK are showing similar patterns to those seen in 2022 - a recognised “surge year,” when subsidence cases rose sharply during the second half of the year.

According to the Association of British Insurers (ABI), more than 23,000 valid claims were submitted in that period, with total costs to insurers estimated at £219 million.

Early signs in 2025 are causing concern among climate analysts and loss adjusters. The Met Office has reported below-average rainfall, above-average temperatures, and three heatwaves by mid-summer.

Soil moisture readings in parts of southern and eastern England are significantly lower than seasonal norms, increasing the risk of shrink-swell soil behaviour, a known subsidence trigger.

Risk levels vary by postcode

Subsidence risk in the UK is not evenly distributed. According to soil data, areas built on highly shrinkable clay, such as parts of London, Surrey, Hertfordshire, and Leicestershire, are more vulnerable during dry periods.

Tree proximity, especially to large, mature trees, also increases risk by accelerating moisture loss in nearby soils.

To help clarify this regional variation, the engineering firm Geobear has released a free postcode-based subsidence risk tool. It uses three core data sets:

• National soil texture mapping to identify clay-rich areas,
• A database of 20,000+ historical subsidence cases, and
• User input on nearby tree presence.

Each postcode district is scored and classified into low, moderate, high, or very high risk categories. While the tool does not assess individual homes or foundations, it offers a first-level indicator for those looking to understand general exposure or take early preventative action.

The postcode analysis highlights sharp contrasts. For example:

• Certain North London districts (e.g. N20, N11) show high case density and clay soils.
• Regions such as Cumbria and Gwynedd, with more stable geology and lower reported cases, are typically classified as low risk.

This tool can help those looking at buying a house and help buyers make informed choices when buying a house with subsidence.

Long-term consequences for property owners

Subsidence can result in significant repair costs, extended disruption, and in some cases, long-term impact on a property's value or insurability.

According to ABI guidance, repairs typically range from £10,000 to £50,000, and claims can take months to investigate and resolve.

Once a home has had confirmed subsidence, that history usually must be disclosed during future sales - even if repairs have been completed. Some buyers may be deterred by the potential for recurrence, and insurers may apply higher premiums or exclusions.

In high-risk areas, surveyors and property lawyers are increasingly advising buyers to request soil type and condition reports or specialist structural assessments, particularly if houses are built near trees or visible cracking is present.

While the new postcode tool cannot replace professional evaluation, it may serve as a starting point for further investigation, especially for those planning renovations, applying for insurance, or considering a home purchase in vulnerable areas.

There’s nothing more invigorating or exciting than planning a new extension or dreaming of the outcome of a home renovation project. Whether you're looking to create a light and bright open-plan kitchen or a relaxing, laid-back living space, you need to seriously think about how natural light is going to fill the area.

A big bank of bi-fold doors can bring natural light from the outdoors indoors, but to truly enhance a living space, there is nothing better than a well-placed Korniche roof lantern. This will ensure that all that lovely natural light can flood into a room, giving you a great sense of serenity and enjoyment. Find out more and request your brochure today.

Smart contemporary style

With the launch of the new Korniche roof lantern, you can really bring your light-filled vision to life. Designed and manufactured in the UK, the Korniche roof lantern is now slimmer than ever, letting even more light into a space.

Its new, slim and contemporary sightlines are the slimmest in its class, maximising the amount of natural light that you can expect from a roof lantern. A smart, revised design ensures a clean, contemporary aesthetic with slender external top caps complementing the internal look of the roof lantern.

Korniche raises the level further with a range of sizes, configurations, colours, finishes and even the option to choose your favourite glass. Bespoke sizes up to 6m x 4m and custom configurations ensure you can get the perfect fit for your project. A wide range of colour options, including three stock colours - Gloss White, Matt Grey, Matt Black - allow you to tailor a lantern to suit your style.

And, when the natural light fades, you can create a more subtle ambience with the help of the fully integrated dimmable LED lighting and matched diffusing lens.

Industry-leading efficiency and performance

Alongside style, Korniche adds some real substance, making its new roof lantern an even more tempting proposition for renovators. It is designed with industry-leading thermal efficiency, keeping a space warm in winter and cool in the summer. It can achieve a U-value as low as 1.0 W/m²K.

For ease of understanding, the lower the number, the better a glass unit is at resisting heat transfer, so these are impressive numbers. And as a real added bonus, its self-cleaning glass helps break down dirt, which is then washed away by the rain, meaning significantly less cleaning compared to standard glass.

Alongside style and substance, there is security. The new Korniche roof lantern comes with PAS 24 as standard, giving you peace of mind that your new addition and your home are safe and secure.

Fast, easy installation

Kornche has thought of everything; not only are you getting a beautifully built, high-performing product, but thanks to its innovative engineering and fewer components, it offers the fastest installation on the market. Delivered with a comprehensive installation manual containing easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions, it's a simple-to-build kit that can be installed in minutes and literally glazed in seconds. And for complete peace of mind, every Korniche roof lantern comes with a 10-year homeowner warranty.

What’s not to like? Visit the Korniche site to learn more about the latest roof lantern, explore different options and get details on where to buy and find local installers if you want a professional to fit for you.

To take a look first-hand at the latest Korniche roof lantern and the rest of its range, visit the Homebuilding & Renovating Show at ExCeL London on 19th–21st September. Two free tickets are available from the Homebuilding & Renovating website.

To stay up-to-date with the latest news and connect with Korniche, make sure to follow them on Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn, Pinterest, X, YouTube, and Vimeo.

If there's one feature I'd always recommend you include when designing a new home, or renovating one, it's a porch. While it may not always seem like a necessity, in the UK climate it really is. Providing somewhere to shelter from the elements, porch ideas provide the perfect transition point from outdoors to in, protecting you and your home in the process.

Although there are a vast range of options available to choose from, there's also no doubt, that in the right setting, oak frame porch ideas are some of the prettiest around.

While they may seem more suited to the countryside, with the right framework and finishing touches, they can also add a sense of solidity and character to more contemporary homes. Dive into these 12 oak frame porch ideas to find inspiration to elevate your entrance.

1. Match porch materials with your home's exterior finishes

While some oak frame porches form part of an overall build, even if you don't commission one at the design stage, there are ways of adding one later on that can make it seem like it's always been there.

This oak frame porch idea from Border Oak is a miniature repeat of the house with the materials perfectly matching the exterior of the main home. The tiled roof, oak frame and cream inset side panels set on a matching single brick course ensure the oak frame porch is fully in sync with the rest of the home.

2. Soften and scent your oak frame porch with plants

Oak frame porch ideas are often open fronted and feature pitched roofs with oak struts and supports. The beauty of this type of design? You can soften the structure with clever planting that will soften the porch design and provide you with a fragrant arrival and departure from home.

If you aren't keen on letting plants climb over your oak frame, take a look at these garden planter ideas instead, or frame your entrance with a matching pair, such as this pair of Standard Topiary Salix Flamingo Trees from Gardening Express.

3. Consider carefully which design works best with your home

Choosing the right style of oak frame porch is generally a case of selecting one of three designs, says Eddie Hamilton, a director at Oakmasters, each of which have their own characteristics.

"An open-fronted oak frame porch adds a great feature to your home giving it character and shelter without major structural work," says Eddie, while, "enclosed oak porches with brick dwarf walls and glazed panels gives extra insulation and security."

"Picking the right oak porch for your home is more important than you think," adds David Sutton, owner of The English Porch Company. "it can make the difference between creating a practical addition with the wow factor and an impractical out of character statement."

"My personal favourite, says Eddie, "is a fully glazed oak porch with floor-to-ceiling glass set within the oak frame. This offers more light and almost a mini-conservatory feel that can be a real showcase entrance to your property."

4. Opt for ornate details on your oak frame porch

The beauty of adding a porch to your home made of a natural material such as wood is that you have the scope to add unique details that ensure your home has even extra kerb appeal.

"In terms of creativity, oak is very flexible and we are able cut all sorts of interesting and complex shapes," confirms Eddie Hamilton. "From simple apex roofs to elaborate gables with curved braces, there are lots of opportunity to add a distinctive design to your oak frame porch."

5. Or keep it clean and contemporary with your oak porch design

While oak framed porches in their truest sense are usually those featuring a frame made of oak, there's also no reason why oak can't be used in more modern porch ideas to striking effect.

"A porch is, in its purest sense a practical structure for keeping the weather out and those below it dry, but in today’s world, a porch however simple offers so much more," says David Sutton.

"It offers a place for boots, for logs and those all-important ecommerce deliveries. A well designed and proportioned oak porch is both practical and aesthetic and can really add style and impact."

"But, traditional isn't always the right option which is why The English Porch Company also offers a contemporary range called Brompton," explains David. "This includes kiln dried oak which can be supplied in a range of designs and lends itself to a GRP roof which we also supply."

6. Make your porch roof a feature

"An oak framed porch is the perfect addition to almost any home – providing practicality – somewhere to store the wellies or stacks of wood for the fire – and a fabulous architectural feature," says Merry Albright, creative director at Border Oak. And the idea of it having such architectural impact is demonstrated perfectly in this oak frame porch idea.

The roof extends seamlessly downwards in a perfect pitch above the front door, creating a standout entrance. With oak supports and a framework below the roof, it's a oak frame porch idea fitting of this large and stylish property.

7. Add windows and a dwarf wall for an enclosed oak frame porch

Although it's common to see oak frame porch ideas with open sides or front, it's a versatile material that can also be used to create an enclosed porch or even a porch extension.

This design from Oakmasters combines oak framed windows and a brick dwarf wall to create something more substantial on this traditional home. Giving the house an instant focal point at the entrance, as well as a practical solution. As Merry Albright notes, "an oak frame porch is a lovely introduction to your home, but also helps keep visitors dry if needed."

If you are considering a porch of this size, just make sure you check the rules and regulations surrounding porch planning permission and building regulations.

"While you may not need porch planning permission," says Eddie Hamilton, "as in many cases, oak porches fall under permitted development, this depends on size, location and whether your home is listed or in a conservation area.

"Porches under 3m² in floor area with a height below 3m typically don’t require planning," he adds, "but porch building regulations may still apply. It’s always wise to check first."

8. Create a simple canopy on a wooden clad home

If a full porch isn't required – perhaps you simply need a little extra protection before stepping into a more spacious boot room, an oak frame canopy can provide you with a solution.

Providing sufficient coverage at this entry and exit point, the simple framework and slate tiled roof are the perfect materials to compliment this timber clad home.

That said, it's important not to underestimate the skill involved in creating an oak frame porch.

"It can be very straightforward but working with experienced suppliers and contractors is key," advises Eddie Hamilton. "We use CNC technology to cut our timbers, which means the joints are incredibly precise and the whole thing slots together like lego, saving builders a lot of time on site correcting mistakes, and causing homeowners minimal disruption."

Fancy doing it yourself? It's an option you can consider confirms Merry Albright.

"All our oak frame porches are available as DIY packages, with full details, but they are made in our Herefordshire workshops, meaning you can expect our usual exceptional and unrivalled detailing and craftsmanship (tapered posts, arched tie beams, diamond mullions, oak rafters etc) and the finest natural oak. We make our porches to last, and to add value to your home and so they are as beautiful as they are useful."

9. Go full height with your roof on a corner entrance

If your entrance is located at the corner of your home, and there are no windows above or to the side of your front door, it's an opportunity to turn your porch into something more than a simple cover.

Instead, extend the height of your porch to just below the roof of the house, but make sure it doesn't entirely block light from the entrance by opting for an open-sided design, and including a simple framework below the roof. Also check how high can a porch be with your local planners before you begin.

But, as this could make your entrance feel a little darker, make sure your porch lighting ideas are up to the job to ensure safe entrance and exit when it's dark. These Brimel Outdoor Wall Lights from Amazon would be a stylish and practical addition to your oak frame porch ideas.

10. Get creative with your side infil panels

As this oak frame porch ideas shows, there's really no limit to what you can achieve with your porch design, and while the oak is always one of the main features, there's no reason to stick to standard formats when it comes to other elements too.

"Each piece of timber has a personality of its own, each porch has unique character and architectural appeal," says Eddie Hamilton, "so replicate this in the other materials you use as well."

Here, brick infill section on the oak frame porch are a perfect choice as the match the brick base. However, they're given a twist with the decision to lay them in a herringbone pattern rather than traditional courses. A simple but clever concept that makes this porch as unique as the home it protects.

11. Make your oak frame porch the focal point

Think oak frame porches only suit one type of home? Don't fall into the trap of thinking this to be the case.

"Oak porches are incredibly versatile - obviously they are perfectly suited for period cottages but timber is very forgiving and can blend in modestly with modern materials or as a stand out contemporary feature," says Eddie Hamilton.

When choosing one for a single storey U shaped property, it's a great opportunity to turn your porch into the focal entrance point. Here, the pitched roof echoes the gable ends of the property and provides a wide and deep entrance, with a matching oak front door.

12. Increase the width of your porch for greater coverage

Adding an oak frame porch to a house that has been extended? Make sure you design your oak frame porch width to suit the frontage of your home.

On this property, a small narrow porch would have looked out of place. Instead, opting for a wider design not only provides additional practical cover when entering and leaving the home, it also adds a sense of balance and feels more like it's part of the home, rather than an add-on.

Considering oak frame porch ideas as part of a wider project to transform your entrance? Take a look at our guide to porch costs to help you plan ahead for all the different elements, and make sure you avoid the most common porch mistakes to get the best out of your budget.

As our climate continues to change, flooding is increasingly a concern for homeowners.

For self-builders, flooding can have serious implications, even before a brick is laid. If you’re buying land, flood risk isn’t just a matter of safety, it’s a fundamental part of the planning process. Get it wrong, and you could face delays, extra costs, or refusal of your application. But with the right information and professional support, building in a flood zone can still be possible.

This article explains what a flood zones are, the effects of different types of flooding, and what planning rules you’ll need to know if you find a plot is in a flood zone. It also explains the design options that will protect your home, and what support is available if things go wrong.

What is a flood zone?

In England, flood zones are defined by the Environment Agency and reflect the likelihood of flooding from rivers or the sea.

There are three main zones, from 1 to 3 categories, with the flood risk ranging from low to high respectively. Zone 3 is further split into 3A and 3B, with A being land that’s developable with the right mitigations. B covers areas that serve as natural flood storage – and comes with the most severe restrictions.

It’s important to know that these zones don’t take into account all types of flooding, and that’s where self-builders often come unstuck.

Types of flooding

When we think of flooding, we often picture rivers breaking their banks or storm surges washing in from the sea, but this isn’t the full extent of flooding that occurs.

• River flooding happens when rivers and streams can’t cope with the volume of water, usually after heavy rainfall.
• Coastal flooding is caused by extreme tidal conditions and storm surges.
• Surface water flooding happens when rainwater can’t drain away quickly enough – something that’s becoming common as urban areas expand, and more ground is covered by impermeable surfaces.
• Groundwater flooding happens when underground water levels rise and seep into buildings.

How to check the flood risk

The best place to start is the Environment Agency’s interactive flood map, which shows flood zones, surface water risk, and historical flooding. It’s free and easy to use and you just need a postcode.

Local planning authorities (LPA’s) also have their own Strategic Flood Risk Assessments (SFRAs), which can reveal vulnerabilities not shown on national maps. To make sense of this information, especially when buying a building plot, its best to commission a Flood Risk Report from a specialist consultant.

Why build in a flood zone?

It’s quite common to build in flood risk zones for a variety of reasons.

Planning policies often require new homes to be built within existing settlements and unless the risk of flooding is high, development will be allowed under certain conditions such as replacing an existing house. In some cases, the land may have an historical planning permission that was granted before the risk of flooding was known.

Whilst planning policies may not always restrict development, it's still important to ask if building in a flood risk area is a good idea? Likewise questions should also be asked when considering buying a house in a flood risk area.

Of course, when looking for land, it's best to search where flooding is not a problem, however, if you already own the land you might not have any alternative. It’s therefore essential that you know the risks and include mitigations to keep your home safe.

Planning rules for building in flood zones

If you’re planning to build in a flood zone – especially Zones 2 or 3 – you’ll face stricter planning controls. In these higher risk zones, LPA’s will apply a ‘sequential test’ which asks whether the development could reasonably be located in a lower-risk zone. If it can’t, they’ll grant consent on the basis that the wider sustainability benefits outweigh the flood risks and that these risks can be managed.

This is where a Flood Risk Assessment comes to prove the mitigations required and satisfy the exception test.

A Flood Risk Assessment (FRA) is a key part of a planning application for new developments. The FRA must demonstrate how the development will remain safe over its lifetime, how flood risk will be managed, and how it won’t make flooding worse elsewhere. It considers the available flood risk data and assesses the site levels against forecast flood levels.

Designing a build for a flood plain

Building in a flood risk zone requires good quality design to include the essential mitigations and provide flood resilience.

When building a new home, the best starting point is to raise the floor levels above expected flood levels. This mostly involves building up the ground floor slab. If flood water displacement is required, it might be necessary to build on stilts or allow the flood water to enter the substructure. This will require drainage systems to have non-return valves to prevent floodwater backing up through toilets and sinks.

When extending or converting existing buildings, raising the entire floor level may not be possible so consider split-level floor plans to elevate critical living areas. The challenge is then to build a home that can withstand flooding by resisting water and recovering quickly, following a flood.

Durable construction materials are essential as they drastically reduce the impact of a flood and make recovery much faster. Concrete, bricks, and cement-based render all perform well in wet conditions. Timber is also a good as it quickly reverts to its original condition once flood water recedes.

Internally, ceramic floor tiles and closed-cell insulation will limit damage as they won’t absorb water. The key is to avoid materials that become damaged or soak up water, like chipboard, plasterboard or laminate flooring. It’s also a good idea to raise electrical sockets and appliances well above the expected flood level to limit the risk of damage.

Flood readiness and mitigation

Even with a well-designed house, it's still wise to prepare for the worst. Signing up for flood alerts is a must, so register for alerts from the Environment Agency. Have sandbags on hand to respond quickly during a flood event. More sophisticated options like flood boards, airbrick covers, and door barriers offer better levels of protection.

If your home is damaged by flooding, check if you’re eligible for the Build Back Better scheme. The scheme provides up to £10,000 on top of reinstatement costs to install flood prevention measures. This could pay for installing flood doors, raising electrics, or replacing floors with more water-resistant options.

Insurance and financial implications

In a high-risk area, insurance may not be available or insurers may offer cover but with high premiums and large excesses. To help, the government and the insurance industry set up Flood Re, a scheme that makes affordable flood insurance for qualifying homes.

But – and this is a big but – Flood Re only applies to existing properties built before 1 January 2009. If you’re building a brand-new house in a flood zone, you probably won’t qualify.

This all means that you’ll need to find specialist insurance, which could cost significantly more than a standard policy. And if you’re planning to sell the property later, limited insurance options can affect saleability.

FAQs

Can I build in a flood zone if I raise the house above the flood level?

Possibly, but planning consent will still depend on the sequential and exception tests and a Flood Risk Assessment will be needed to demonstrate safety and risk mitigation.

Will building on stilts mean I don’t need flood insurance?

Not really. Insurers look at postcode, historical data, and Environment Agency classifications. Even if your house is elevated, they may still consider the area high risk.

Is building in a flood zone ever a good idea?

In most cases, it’s better to avoid it. But if you have no alternative, or you’re converting or extending and existing building, it can be done with the right precautions and realistic expectations.

If you are still on the hunt for a building plot, check out where to buy land as well as plot buying mistakes in our plot-buying pieces.

Meanwhile, if you are considering buying garden land from a neighbour to build a house it is worth reading up on whether or not you need to pay stamp duty on a building plot.

The UK government plans to bring back a volunteer ‘Home Guard’ to protect critical infrastructure like power plants and energy pipelines.

This move aims to reduce risks of disruptions that could trigger energy price rises and impact household bills.

It forms part of a broader Strategic Defence Review responding to increasing global threats and aiming to strengthen the country’s security at home.

Protecting energy supply and prices

Power plants, energy pipelines, and communication hubs form the backbone of the UK’s energy supply.

Any disruption, whether from sabotage or cyberattack, can lead to power outages and spikes in energy prices, which directly affect homeowners.

The new Home Guard will consist of volunteers trained to guard these vital sites, helping ensure the continuous flow of energy and potentially preventing unexpected price rises.

A Ministry of Defence spokesperson said: “Protecting the UK’s critical infrastructure is vital to national security and economic stability. The Home Guard initiative will bolster our ability to defend key facilities, including those essential for energy supply, against emerging threats.”

Why now? Rising threats to critical infrastructure

With escalating geopolitical tensions and sophisticated cyber threats from hostile nations, the UK faces unprecedented risks to its infrastructure.

Recent global events have highlighted vulnerabilities in energy networks, making protection more urgent than ever.

“The Strategic Defence Review sets out a clear path to ensure Britain is secure at home and resilient abroad,” said a government official. “This includes safeguarding undersea pipelines and power networks that millions of households rely on daily.”

The review also commits to increased defence spending - reaching 2.5% of GDP by 2027 - with a focus on innovation, technology and volunteer forces like the Home Guard to strengthen national resilience.

What homeowners can do

While the government boosts national protection efforts, homeowners can play their part too.

Improving energy efficiency, such as upgrading insulation or installing smart meters, helps reduce energy demand and exposure to price fluctuations. Supporting renewable energy solutions can also diversify the country’s energy sources, making the supply more secure.

Homeowners are encouraged to stay informed about energy developments and consider simple preparations to manage potential supply interruptions, such as having emergency heating options or backup power sources.

As the Ministry of Defence notes: “Defence is a shared responsibility. The public’s role in supporting energy resilience through awareness and preparedness complements government efforts to secure critical infrastructure.”

Knowing how to hang patterned wallpaper isn’t as difficult as you might think, but there are some subtle differences compared with non-patterned wallpaper. It depends very much on the pattern itself. A standard matching pattern is a much simpler paper hanging exercise than wallpaper with a staggered pattern.

You‘ll still need to know how to wallpaper, but how you hang a staggered pattern is the key. First, you’ll need more wallpaper to match the pattern. So don’t sell yourself short when buying wallpaper. Then it's all about preparation and patience. Embrace these, and you'll be well on your way to a professional-looking finish.

How to hang patterned wallpaper: Where do you start?

There’s plenty of debate on where to start hanging patterned wallpaper, but it largely depends on the pattern – is it big and bold or small and subtle? Eric Bramlett, Owner of Bramlett Real Estate says, “The goal is to align the pattern in a way that feels natural and seamless.”

To do this, Bramlett says, ”It’s best to start in a corner or along the most visible wall, where any potential mismatch in the pattern will be less noticeable.” But he adds, “If the wallpaper features a bold pattern, you might want to begin with a central area to create a more even, symmetrical look across the room.”

A point that Thomas Oldham, co-founder of UK Construction Blog reinforces, “Start from the centre of the wall, not from a corner. This ensures the pattern is balanced across the space and prevents a narrow, awkward-looking strip at one end.”

He adds, “Measure and mark the centre of the wall first. Then, measure the width of your wallpaper roll and work outward from the centre, both to the left and right. This way, you can calculate how many drops you need and make sure the finish is symmetrical.”

After deciding on your start point, removing wallpaper is the next step, if you still have wallpaper on the walls.

Should I use a straight match or drop match?

How you hang patterned wallpaper will depend on the design. Simpler designs typically follow a straight match, making them easier to install. A drop match requires a bit more manoeuvring for proper pattern alignment.

Bramlett points out that a straight match involves less work: “A straight match is easier – it lines up evenly from left to right across all strips.” Oldham adds, “The top of every wallpaper panel will line up identically at the ceiling.”

A drop match is a little more complex to deal with, as Bramlett points out, “The pattern repeats in a staggered vertical sequence. It takes more planning, and usually, a bit more wallpaper to get it right.” He adds, “But the payoff can be big – it often creates a more dynamic look.”

Oldham offers a quick tip for a drop match: “For drop match designs, it’s a good idea to pre-cut panels from two rolls side by side to reduce waste and help with smoother alignment.”

Try these tools when hanging patterned wallpaper

Steps to hang patterned wallpaper

Hanging patterned wallpaper follows closely in the path of standard wallpaper, but with a few subtle differences. Here we take a look at the steps you need to follow.

1. Mark start point

Before you start make sure that the walls are smooth and clean. Oldham suggests that you don’t wallpaper over wallpaper, especially if using a patterned wallpaper. To start he says, “Mark the centre of the wall. Use a spirit level to draw a vertical guideline for your first strip. Next, measure your wall space and check the wallpaper label for the correct type and pattern match details before cutting.”

2. Measure and cut

Measure up and leave around 30mm extra top and bottom. This will be more if drop matching. Oldham says, “For measuring and cutting, measure and pre-cut your strips, especially for drop match patterns, using decorator scissors.”

3. Paste, put up and trim

Next, apply your paste. Oldham says, “Make sure you cover the edges thoroughly to avoid any lifting later on. Then, line up your first strip carefully along the central guideline. For pattern matches, always double-check the alignment before pressing the strip down.” Bramlett suggests, “Lay the wallpaper out on the floor if you need to. It’s much easier to adjust on the ground than when you're halfway up a ladder.”

He adds, “Use a smoothing tool to press it down and remove bubbles in wallpaper.” The next step is to trim the top and bottom against the ceiling and skirting boards. Bramlett says, “Use a sharp blade for a clean finish.” To help get a clean cut, use a tool like this ProDec 12" Vinyl Smoother from Amazon to help guide the knife.

Oldham says, “When you reach the corners, cut a square chunk at the corner to act as a guide for how much needs to be removed along the top and side edges.”

Check out our 'How to dispose of wallpaper paste' guide to ensure you dispose of it responsibly after you've finished wallpapering.

4 DIY tips to ensure excellent alignment and finish

1. Plan for waste

Oldham says, “Drop match patterns often require more wallpaper, so it’s always a good idea to round up your order to avoid running out halfway through.” Typically, it's recommended to add 10 percent on top of what you need. For patterned wallpaper add an extra 20-30 percent to compensate for the pattern.

2. Measure twice (or more)

Measuring more than once means fewer errors. Oldham says, “Make sure to measure your space properly.” This will help ensure you calculate how many rolls you’ll need. And, don't forget about the pattern repeat. Use an online calculator like this wallpaper calculator from Wallpaper Direct.

3. Read the label

It may seem obvious, but Oldhan says, “Always read the wallpaper label for guidance on the type of paper, paste method, and pattern repeat.”

4. Say goodbye to bubbles

Ideally, you want to remove bubbles in wallpaper before the paste dries. However, Oldham offers an option if you miss them. “If you notice any bubbles after the wallpaper dries, simply cut the bubble open, apply paste underneath, and smooth it back down.”

When hanging patterned wallpaper, make sure you have the right wallpaper tools. If stuck for wallpaper suggestions, try our Bathroom wallpaper ideas and Wallpaper in a kitchen guides for extra inspiration.

Conservatories are a great way to add extra space to your home, however, before you start thinking about placing your order with a manufacturer, it’s worth giving some thought to the most critical part of your conservatory – the foundations. Choosing the right foundation for your conservatory ideas is essential for ensuring stability and to prevent costly structural problems in the future.

In this article, I’ll explain everything you need to know about conservatory foundations, including the different options, how deep they should be, what factors to consider, and when building regulations apply.

Why do conservatories need foundations?

Whilst conservatories are generally lighter than a traditionally built extension, they still need strong foundations to prevent movement, subsidence, or structural damage over time. Poorly built foundations can cause cracks or even structural failure, or cause doors and windows to bind.

Even though many conservatories are exempt from full building regulations, the foundations must still meet structural safety standards. Without the right support, seasonal changes in ground moisture, tree roots, or poor soil conditions can cause the ground to move to shift, leading to structural problems. Strong foundations are therefore essential, no matter how big or heavy your conservatory is.

Foundation options

Several foundation options are available for conservatories, and choosing the right type of foundation system depends on the soil conditions, support required and access arrangements.

• Traditional Strip Foundations: Strip foundations are the most common choice for conservatories. They involve digging a trench around the perimeter of the conservatory and filling it with concrete. For standard cavity walls, the foundation width is usually around 600mm for a conservatory, while the depth varies depending on soil conditions, typically ranging from 750mm to over 1m. After the concrete is poured, blockwork is used to bring the foundation up to ground level. This method works well for good, stable ground conditions, but deeper excavations may be needed in areas with clay soil or near trees.
• Trench Fill Foundations: Trench fill foundations are similar to strip foundations but require more concrete. Instead of using blockwork to build up the substructure walls, the trench is filled with concrete, almost to ground level. Trench fill foundations are great when the soil for your conservatory is unstable or when digging deep trenches makes blockwork impractical to build. Since trench fill requires a significant amount of concrete, it can be more expensive than traditional strip foundations, but with pumps, the concrete is easy to lay and speeds up construction times.
• Raft Foundations: A raft foundation is a large, reinforced concrete slab that spreads the weight of the conservatory over a wider area. This type of foundation is often used for conservatories in areas with soft or unstable ground, as it reduces the risk of differential settlement. Raft foundations are typically 200mm–250mm thick and are reinforced with steel mesh for added strength. The ground beneath the slab is excavated, compacted with crushed stone, and covered with a sand blinding and damp-proof membrane to prevent moisture from rising into the slab. Raft foundations are particularly useful where extensive excavation isn’t practical, such as close to boundaries or sites with difficult access or underground services, or drainage systems that shouldn’t be disturbed.
• Screw Piled Foundations: For conservatories built on very weak ground, screw pile foundations can provide extra support and overcome conditions. These are galvanized metal ground screws that are driven into the ground with an auger machine to a depth of 1.5 to 3.0m – depending on ground conditions and loading requirements. Screw piles transfer the load of the conservatory to a more stable layer. They’re quick to install, cause minimal disruption, and are ideal for sites with difficult access or areas with tree roots that could be disturbed by excavations. It's worth remembering that whilst screw piles require specialist equipment, unless they’re being used to overcome a site problem, they can be more expensive than traditional concrete foundations.

How deep should conservatory foundations be?

There’s no fixed rule for the conservatory foundations depth, as it depends on several factors:

• Soil Type: Sandy or gravelly soils are stable, but clay is prone to movement, particularly in dry or wet seasons and near trees. In clay soils, foundations need to be deep enough not to be affected by the changing clay conditions so must be at least 1m deep.
• Tree Proximity: Trees effect the moisture in the soil, which can cause shrinkage and lead to subsidence. If a foundation is near trees, it may need to be deeper, depending on the tree species, type of ground and distance from the tree.
• Frost Protection: Foundations should be deep enough to prevent frost from affecting the structure. In most parts of the UK, 750mm is the minimum depth needed to avoid frost-related movement, unless the foundation is a raft.

The width of the foundation is also important and a 600mm-wide trench foundation is typically enough to support a conservatory wall up to 350mm thick. Obviously, the thicker the wall, the wider the foundation will need to be.

Preventing differential settlement

One of the biggest risks when building extensions or designing a conservatory is differential settlement, where different parts of the structure settle at different rates, leading to cracks and damage over time. To minimise this risk of differential settlement, adopt the following:

• Match house foundation depth: The conservatory foundation should be as deep as the house foundations and ideally connected to it with dowels, provided the house foundations have been properly built.
• Use the right foundation type: If the ground conditions vary across your site, a raft or piled foundation may be the best choice.
• Consider tree roots: If trees are nearby, install root barriers or use deeper foundations to prevent soil movement and undermining of the foundation.
• Management movement: When building a conservatory, there’s always the risk of some minor settlement so it’s a good idea to allow for slight movement by incorporating movement joints where the conservatory connects to the house.
• Consult a structural engineer: The structural engineer will advise on the best approach and will design an appropriate foundation considering all these circumstances.

Building regulations and conservatory foundations

In many cases, conservatories are exempt from compliance with building regulations provided they meet the following criteria:

• The floor area is under 30m²
• The walls and roof are substantially glazed
• The conservatory is separated from the house by thermally efficient external-quality doors and windows
• The heating system is independent from the heating system in the main house

However, if the conservatory affects the existing structure, involves complex foundations, or requires deep excavation, Building Control may need to be consulted. If approval is required, a building notice is the best approach as this will allows work to progress while inspections are carried out on-site.

FAQs

Can I build a conservatory on an existing patio or slab?

No, patios and slabs are not designed to bear the weight of a conservatory, and a proper foundation is essential to prevent structural issues and damp problems.

How much do conservatory foundations cost?

The cost depends on the foundation type, soil conditions, and access to the site, as well as the work involved in building the whole substructure. A basic strip foundation cost might be between £100–£150 per m² of conservatory floor area, whilst deep trench fill or raft foundations could push costs up to £200 per m². In comparison, the cost of foundations for a traditionally built extension of even a new house, which would be much heavier, is typically in the region of £220 to £280 per m².

Will tree roots affect the foundation?

Yes, tree roots can affect the moisture in the soil, causing shrinkage in clay-rich areas. Foundations near trees therefore need to be deeper, and in some cases, root barriers may be needed.

Does the material of the conservatory affect the foundations?

Conservatories are generally lightweight, so materials such as uPVC, timber, or even a plinth of brickwork, won’t significantly change foundation requirements. The foundation needs to deal with the soil stability and provide structural integrity, and whilst the weight of the conservatory is a factor, it’s not the only consideration.

What if my existing conservatory has no foundations?

If the conservatory shows no signs of movement, it may have settled into place so could be ok. However, if cracks, sticking doors, or other structural defects appear, repairs and underpinning may be necessary.

Choosing the right foundation for your conservatory is critical to its long-term durability. Whether you opt for strip, trench fill, raft, or piled foundations, the key is to ensure the foundations are designed correctly and are deep enough to provide stability and prevent future movement. Following best practices and consulting a professional is always best and will prevent structural issues in the future.

Make sure you're also prepared about all elements of your build, by reading our guide on conservatory building regulations.

If you’ve noticed a constant cooing coming from above your ceiling, there’s a good chance pigeons have taken up residence on your roof. While they might seem harmless at first, these uninvited guests can quickly become a problem – damaging roofing materials, spreading disease through their droppings, and causing a racket, especially during breeding season.

One popular DIY fix making the rounds online is using mothballs to stop pigeons on your roof – but does this trick actually work? And more importantly, is it safe? We spoke to pest control experts to find out whether mothballs are a smart solution or just another urban myth.

Using mothballs to stop pigeons on your roof – clever trick or urban myth?

"Mothballs are sometimes purported to be a way to keep pigeons off your roof, but they are neither effective nor reliable when used for repelling these birds," says Tony King, founder of The Pied Piper Pest Control Ltd.

"The naphthalene in mothballs has a very strong-whiff odour that is sure to cause some mild irritation for birds, but pigeons are highly adapted and tend to get used to it fast," Tony explains. "In addition, the smell is unpleasant to humans, and hence it is impractical as a long-term plan for controlling pigeons. At best, mothballs may deter pigeons temporarily, but they should not be relied on as a first-line solution."

Are mothballs dangerous?

“Some mothballs contain toxic chemicals that can be harmful to humans, pets and the environment,” warns John Stewart, technical training manager at Pelsis Group. “Since deterring pigeons is not the intended use of this product, it’s not recommended that mothballs are used in this way.”

Tony King agrees: “Mothballs are poisonous – particularly to pets and young children. The chemicals they contain, such as naphthalene and paradichlorobenzene, can be harmful if ingested or inhaled.”

There are also broader environmental concerns. When used outdoors, mothballs can leach into the soil or enter water sources. In many regions, using them in this way may breach hazardous materials regulations.

In short, while the smell of mothballs may deter pigeons temporarily, the risks far outweigh the benefits. It’s not a pest control shortcut worth taking.

Alternative ways to deter pigeons on your roof

Fortunately, there are several more effective and humane ways to prevent pigeons from nesting on your roof. Here's what the experts recommend:

Bird netting / mesh

"One of the most popular ways to deter pigeons is bird netting, which can be installed to physically prevent pigeons from getting onto rooftops," explains Tony King.

Bird netting prevents pigeons from landing and roosting on roof areas, balconies, and under solar panels. It’s an especially useful solution for hard-to-access or awkwardly shaped spaces, such as chimney stacks, pitched roofs, gable ends, or architectural features that offer sheltered spots for nesting.

Bird netting has a number of advantages:

• Discreet appearance: Once in place, bird netting is barely noticeable from the ground. It also allows natural light to pass through, so it won’t darken balconies or courtyards.
• Immediate impact: As soon as it’s installed, pigeons are unable to land or roost in those spaces.
• Highly adaptable: This deterrent can be tailored to suit a range of property types and layouts – from unusual rooflines to decorative features like canopies and cornices.

Bird spikes

"Another humane method is using bird spikes which are fixed along ledges or other areas where pigeons tend to roost," says Tony King. "Though these may sound a little extreme, these spikes are actually harmless."

By creating an uneven landing area, bird spikes make it uncomfortable for pigeons to roost – encouraging them to move on without causing them harm in the process.

Once installed, it’s barely noticeable from ground level and won’t block out natural light – perfect for preserving the look and feel of balconies, courtyards or roof terraces. Better still, it works straight away by stopping pigeons from landing or nesting, and can be tailored to suit all kinds of properties, including those with decorative features like canopies or ornate cornices.

Ultrasonic bird repellents

Ultrasonic bird deterrents work by emitting high-frequency sound waves that birds find unpleasant, yet are completely inaudible to the human ear. These discreet devices offer a low-maintenance way to keep pigeons at bay, operating around the clock to create a consistently unwelcoming environment.

Compact and lightweight, they’re easy to install and can be repositioned if needed to target different areas. Most models are solar-powered or use very little electricity, making them an energy-efficient option, too.

Decoy birds

Decoy predators, such as model owls or hawks, can be used to trick pigeons into thinking a threat is nearby. These visual deterrents work best when moved regularly to maintain the illusion of danger, as pigeons are surprisingly intelligent and will eventually recognise a static decoy.

FAQs

Is it illegal to remove pigeons from your roof?

While it is not illegal to deter pigeons from your roof, you must not harm them or interfere with active nests. All wild birds in the UK, including pigeons, are protected under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981. This means it’s illegal to intentionally injure, kill, or disturb nesting birds without an appropriate licence.

Why do pigeons keep coming back to my roof?

“To prevent pigeon populations using a roof to roost or nest, the first thing to do is to stop feeding them and advise neighbours to do the same, as this will encourage pest birds,” advises John Stewart from Pelsis Group.

Pigeons are highly habitual creatures – once they find a safe, sheltered place to roost or nest, they’re likely to return repeatedly unless actively deterred. Your roof may offer warmth, protection from predators, or easy access to food, particularly if nearby properties are feeding birds or leaving scraps outside.

When should you call a pest control professional?

“You should contact a professional to pigeon-proof around solar panels and prevent them nesting,” says John Stewart. “They will have the skills and expertise, access to equipment, and correct insurance to be able to do so.”

DIY methods can sometimes fall short, especially in hard-to-reach areas or when tackling established infestations. But a professional pest control provider can assess your property, recommend the most suitable deterrents, and carry out the installation safely and humanely. They'll also ensure you stay on the right side of UK wildlife laws.

How much does it cost to pigeon-proof a roof?

Prices can vary depending on the size of your roof, the type of deterrent you choose, and whether specialist access equipment is needed – but you don’t necessarily have to spend a fortune to pigeon-proof your property.

As a general rule, standard deterrents like bird spikes or netting tend to cost between £150 and £500. More complex jobs – such as proofing around solar panels or covering hard-to-reach roof areas – may cost a little more.

Dealing with pigeons in more than one place? If they’re pecking away at your lawn, discover how to stop pigeons eating grass seed, too.

If you’ve drilled a spotlight hole in the wrong location, you‘ll need to follow this guide on how to repair a hole in a ceiling. Here we discuss how to quickly address ceiling holes that cannot be repaired with just a little bit of filler.

Repairing old ceilings – and new ones – involves using the right tools and kit to ensure that it stays looking good for longer. Some quick fixes simply won’t cut it. They may look good when you finish, but it won’t be long before they need repairing again. Follow the pro tips in this guide and your ceilings will look like new for years to come.

Options to repair a hole in a ceiling

There is no one-size-fits-all solution for repairing a hole in a ceiling. How you fix it will depend on various factors, such as depth, size, and extent of damage. Kevin Keen, owner of Keen's Buildings, says, “Ceiling holes, especially those resulting from water damage or electrical work like removed spotlights, are common in residential structures.”

For smaller to medium holes, Keen says, “For anything under 50mm, you can usually get away with a strong filler.” But be aware, Keen continues, “Anything over 50mm, you're pushing it. Fillers don’t hold well long-term if they’re applied thick.” He adds, “The most common mistake I see is people trying to patch something the size of a softball (around 90-100mm) with filler, and it starts cracking or sagging in no time.”

Tom Hall, category executive at Kingfisher Direct, suggests, “You can use a drywall patch, made from mesh joint tape and joint compound.” This will give a strong finish for smaller holes and blend well with the current ceiling.

For larger holes, Hall continues, you will need additional support: “For larger holes, it will require the use of wooden cleats to provide structural support, before finishing with jointing compound.”

In some cases, i.e. holes larger than 100mm, new plasterboard is a much better and quicker option. Hall says, “You can cut out the plasterboard around the hole and replace it with a new section of plasterboard, before covering with joint compound.” He adds, “This typically works better for larger holes to provide more stability.”

Try these to help repair a hole in a ceiling

Tools to repair a hole in a ceiling

What you need to repair a hole in the ceiling depends on the size and depth, but the following are essential:

• Ladder - like this Werner Fibreglass Swingback Stepladder from Amazon
• A filling/putty knife
• Utility knife - like this Amazon Basics Durable Folding Utility Knife
• Joint tape
• Joint compound

If filling a larger hole, it's most likely that you will need the following as well:

• Plasterboard
• Drywall saw - like this 6-Inch Jab Saw for Drywall from Amazon
• Plasterboard screws
• Screwdriver or drill

To finish the job and hide the hole, you’ll need a few extras:

• Sandpaper
• Paint brush/roller - like this Harris Seriously Good Walls & Ceilings Twin Medium Pile Paint Roller Set from Amazon
• Paint (match up with current paint i.e. emulsion)

Tips to repair a hole in a ceiling

If filling a small hole, you should only need filler, as Hall explains, “Start by assessing the hole in your ceiling, if it’s smaller than 50mm in width and depth, then it can simply be filled using a wall filler and putty knife.” He adds, “After 24 hours, the wall filler should have dried and you can sand down the edges and paint over the area for a seamless finish.”

For larger holes - anything bigger than 50mm - the quick and easy option is to cut out and replace the plasterboard. Hall says, “Start by using a drywall saw to cut a clean rectangular shape around the hole. Then, place wooden cleats across the inside of the hole and attach them using plasterboard screws, this will provide a secure backing for the new section of plasterboard.”

Next, measure up the hole and cut a piece of plasterboard to fit the hole. Halls says, “Place the plasterboard into the hole and fix it to the wooden cleats by drilling in more drywall screws.”

To finish, he adds, “Take your joint tape and apply it around the edges of the plasterboard, making sure that it’s as smooth as possible.” The next step is to use a filling knife to apply joint compound across the plasterboard.

Hall adds, “Make sure to smooth it out at the edges for a seamless finish. Apply multiple thin layers of jointing compound and once dry, use sandpaper to sand the surface, finishing with a fresh coat of paint”.

Hall adds one final tip: “If your ceiling is textured, you will have to finish by using a textured spray to ensure that it seamlessly blends with the rest of the ceiling.”

FAQs

Can you use joint tape to patch holes?

Joint tape, like this Fibreglass Plasterboard Repair & Jointing Tape from Wickes, is a great option for adding support to smaller ceiling holes, and it's easy to use, as Hall shares, “Joint tape is self-adhesive, which allows easy and quick application.”

He adds, “If the hole is large, then you may need to use a section of plasterboard before using joint tape to provide added support.”

Can I use patching plaster to fill holes?

Patching plaster can be used to fill holes, small and large. Hall says, “Patching plaster is typically used for larger and deeper holes as it offers a more durable finish than regular wall filler”.

However, to fill large holes it will need to be layered to be fully effective. Keen says, “Use with mesh jointing tape and joint compound to get a much smoother and long-lasting result."

If your ceiling proves to be beyond repair, you’ll need to remove it and start again. Check out our how to plasterboard a ceiling guide to get a neat, clean finish. To finish the new ceiling, follow our how to paper a ceiling and painting a ceiling guides.

It really is not that uncommon for homeowners to ask 'should I remove my chimney breast?' There are all kinds of reasons for carrying out this job, from opening up remodelling possibilities to adding extra floor space.

That said, before you start getting too absorbed into looking at how to remove a chimney breast, there are a few factors to consider.

Here, we look at what the job involves and the pros and cons of taking out this structure to help you decide if this is a route that is right for you.

Should I remove my chimney breast?

Whether or not you choose to remove a chimney breast when renovating a house very much depends on your reasons for considering doing this, how much you are willing to spend on the job and the type of house you live in .

"Removing a chimney breast can make a big difference to the feel of smaller rooms and gives you more flexibility with furniture placement," says Paula Higgins, chief executive at HomeOwners Alliance.

"Chimney removal is a smart move for those looking to improve space or change the layout, especially in older homes where such structures often take up a lot of room," adds Constantine Anest, owner of Ethos Roofing & Restoration. "Sometimes, homeowners decide to do this to increase living space, improve energy efficiency, or eliminate the need to maintain old, non-functioning chimneys."

That said, this is not a task for the fainthearted and if you are adverse to dust and mess, there might be other ways to remodel your space that could cause less stress.

What are the benefits of chimney breast removal?

The reason why homeowners choose to remove chimney breasts is usually down to the fact that this is one of the best ways to add space without extending.

"Removal of a chimney breast can make a huge difference to the way a room can be used and laid out, especially in older properties where they encroach on valuable floor space,'" points out Farook Member, director and home improvement expert at QS Supplies. "Most householders only consider removing one to have a more open-plan, larger space, in order to fit in modern kitchen units or built-in wardrobes, or to install fitted furniture," he continues. "In the majority of cases, it’s a case of maximising dead space and resolving tricky room shapes."

Can I remove a chimney breast myself?

If you are keen to save on labour costs, you might well be wondering whether DIY chimney removal is an option – but before you pull out the sledgehammer, there are some important factors to take into consideration if you want to ensure you own safety and maintain the structural integrity of your home. The experts we spoke to had mixed views on this.

"Never attempt to do this yourself," says Paula Higgins. "The chimney often supports upper floors, so removal may require steel beams for reinforcement. You need a structural engineer to advise on the temporary and permanent support that will be needed."

"A chimney is often part of the supporting structure, and improper dismantling can lead to sagging floors or cracks in the walls," picks up Constantine Anest. "In principle, you can try to do it yourself, but before that you should consult a specialist to understand all the nuances of your particular case."

Your first port of call should be a structural engineer. They will be able to advise you on the implications of removing the chimney breast, provide the necessary calculations and also advise you on the relevant building regulations you will need to adhere to in order to gain approval.

"Removing them with no expert input could make the structure prone to collapse," warns Farook Member. "You will need a structural engineer to inspect the chimney's load-bearing role and devise appropriate supports. Normally a steel beam such as an RSJ will be required and a builder will then need to install the beam according to the engineer’s instructions."

It is also worth noting that if you are removing a gas fire at the same time, you will need to call in a Gas Registered Engineer to carry out the work.

Is building regulations approval needed to remove a chimney breast?

It most certainly is. You'll need to familiarise yourself with Part A of the Building Regulations. Before work begins, you should either notify your local authority, who will assign a building control officer to your project or, if speed is of the essence, hire an approved inspector yourself.

Will I need a Party Wall Agreement to remove a chimney breast?

In some cases, along with building regulations approval, you will also need to look into Party Wall Agreements.

"If you're purchasing a terraced or semi-detached house, since the chimney could be shared with a neighbour, you may also require a Party Wall Agreement," picks up Farook Member.

If this is the case, you will need to issue your affected neighbours with a Party Wall Notice, in writing, informing them of the work you intend on carrying out.

Is it dangerous to remove a chimney breast?

As mentioned, providing you consult a structural engineer prior to the removal of the chimney and ensure any load bearing walls are properly supported both during and after work, there is no reason why this is a job to avoid.

However, there is one other safety hazard to be aware of – asbestos in fireplaces. If you are working on a house where the fireplace was installed before the 1980s, there is a risk that asbestos could have been used within the lining system of the chimney. It is also sometimes found in the insulation panels around a fireplace. If you suspect there may be asbestos lurking in your chimney, do not attempt to deal with it yourself – call in the professionals to remove and dispose of it safely.

How much does chimney breast removal cost?

The cost of this job is usually one of the main deciding factors for homeowners considering the project.

What you end up paying will very much depend on whether or not you are removing just the breast, or the chimney stack, as well as what load-bearing role the structure is currently performing.

"The cost and timeframe depend on the size of the chimney, the number of floors in the building, the complexity of the structure, and the need to reinforce the floors," further explains Constantine Anest.

Checkatrade put the job of removing a chimney breast (leaving the stack intact) at an average cost of £2,500. However, when it comes to chimney stack removal costs, you will be looking at considerably more.

"Removing a chimney breast on one level can be anything from £2,500 up to £4,000," advises Farook Member. "If it is being removed on several levels, along with the stack on the roof, the expense can be upwards of £6,000. Full demolition can take anything from one to two weeks, depending on the size and finishes."

What are the disadvantages of chimney breast removal?

Costs aside, there are a few other drawbacks to be aware of.

It is worth bearing in mind that, should you come to sell on at some point, many buyers will view an original fireplace as a highly desirable feature.

Then there is the fact that this is a job that causes a fair amount of mess and, if done incorrectly could cause serious damage to a property.

"Removing a chimney can weaken the structure, require floor reinforcement, and affect ventilation," points out Constantine Anest. "Old houses often have unexpected issues too, such as asbestos or hidden cavities. Plus, without input from a structural engineer and, in some cases, the necessary permits, this can lead to legal complications, especially when selling the house."

FAQs

Do you need planning permission to remove a chimney breast?

Being an internal alternation, there is usually no need to seek planning permission approval in order to remove a chimney breast.

"It is unlikely you'll need planning permission unless you are removing the external stack as well and you live in a conservation area," explains Paula Higgins. "If you live in a listed building then you will likely need consent and if you are a leaseholder you will need to seek permission."

If you are keen to open up your floorplan to improve flow and natural light, it is also worth looking into knocking down internal walls.

Choosing the right conservatory roof type is one of the most important decisions you’ll make when building or upgrading a conservatory. It can shape everything from how much light the space gets to how warm your conservatory feels in winter and how well it connects with the rest of your home.

If you're in the process of gathering conservatory ideas, it's well worth understanding how each conservatory roof type performs in terms of insulation, appearance and practicality before you commit.

Conservatory Roof Types

In this guide, we explore the most popular conservatory roof types available today, from classic glazed options to solid tiled structures and hybrid designs. Calling on the experts, we’ll help you weigh up the pros and cons of each style, so you can choose a roof that suits your space and how you intend on using it.

Glazed Conservatory Roofs

The pros

• Bright and open feel.
• Advanced glass options improve efficiency.
• Ideal for garden views and sky-gazing.

The cons

• Can lead to heat gain/loss without the right type of glazing.
• Requires more upkeep than solid alternatives.

Glass/glazed conservatory roofs remain the most popular choice for conservatory roofs, and it's easy to see why. “A glass conservatory roof maximises the natural light, creating a much brighter and airy space that feels connected to the outdoors,” says Karen Bell, sales director at David Salisbury. “Modern glazing technology improves insulation and reduces glare, making glass a more energy-efficient option than in the past.”

Sharon Wright, sales director at DHW Joinery, recommends using thermal and energy-efficient glass, such as Planitherm. “Thermally efficient glass roofs reduce sunlight and heat gain, keeping you cool in summer and warm in winter,” she explains. “You can even upgrade to self-cleaning glass that breaks down dirt and grime – ideal for lower maintenance.”

But while glazed roofs are extremely popular, they’re not always the most practical choice. As Mervyn Montgomery, managing director of Hampton Conservatories, explains: “Not every location and situation lends itself to an entirely glazed roof, despite this being one of the most distinguishing features of a conservatory. Even with modern technologies and methods to reduce excessive sunlight and inconvenient glare, some homeowners opt for a solid roof design instead.”

Tiled Conservatory Roofs

The Pros

• Excellent insulation and privacy.
• Can make the space more multi-functional.
• Low maintenance.

The cons

• Allows less natural light in.
• Typically higher conservatory costs than glass.

Tiled or ‘solid’ roofs have become increasingly popular, especially for homeowners keen to improve insulation and make their conservatory feel like an extension of the main living area,

“A solid roof helps to maintain a stable indoor temperature year-round,” explains Lisa Morton of Vale Garden Houses. “They also provide increased privacy and reduce glare – perfect for home offices or sun-facing locations.”

According to Sharon Wright, “a tiled roof is the most durable and lowest maintenance option, offering lower U-values and improved energy efficiency than standard glass roofs. However, they usually cost more and don’t deliver as much sunlight.”

Hybrid Conservatory Roofs

The Pros

• Blends light and thermal control.
• Versatile for different conservatory styles.
• Great for both new builds and conservatory roof replacements.

The cons

• Complex designs may add to installation time and costs.
• May require careful planning.

If you want to flood your space with plenty of light but you don’t want to impact your conservatory’s thermal efficiency, a hybrid conservatory roof offers the best of both worlds.

Combining solid roofing with strategically placed glazing – such as roof lanterns or skylights – these types of roof strike a good balance between conservatory roof insulation and natural light.

“These designs deliver the energy-efficiency and durability of solid roofs with some of the natural illumination of a glass roof,” explains Sharon Wright from DHW Joinery. “This makes them particularly appealing for modern conservatories that serve as multifunctional living spaces, where comfort is key but you still want to enjoy a light-filled atmosphere.”

Polycarbonate Conservatory Roofs

The Pros

• Low initial costs.
• Lightweight and easy to install.

The cons

• Poor thermal and acoustic performance.
• Less durable and often less attractive.

Though less common in new builds, polycarbonate roofs are still a familiar sight in older conservatories. Their main appeal lies in being lightweight, and relatively inexpensive and easy to install, which made them a popular choice in the past. However, their performance often falls short when it comes to insulation and noise reduction.

“These types of conservatory roofs can suffer from heat gain in summer and heat loss in winter,” explains Karen Bell from David Salisbury. “They’re generally being phased out in favour of better insulated options.” As a result, many homeowners with ageing polycarbonate roofs are now opting for a conservatory roof replacement to improve energy efficiency and create a more comfortable space.

While they might suit short-term or budget-conscious projects, polycarbonate roofs are rarely recommended for modern conservatories, especially if you're looking to design a conservatory that adds value to your home.

Flat and lantern roofs

The pros

• Contemporary and stylish.
• Ideal for glazed kitchen extensions.

The cons

• Typically more expensive to install.
• May require planning permission.

If you’re looking for something more architectural than your average glazed roof, a flat solid roof with a statement roof lantern could be just the thing. This style of roof is perfect for anyone wanting their conservatory to blur the lines between traditional add-on and full-on extension. The crisp, clean lines of a flat roof lend themselves beautifully to modern homes, while a lantern overhead draws in light and drama.

Mervyn Montgomery from Hampton Conservatories, points out that this type of structure is also a smart solve for more complicated layouts. “It can be a challenge to attach a fully octagonal conservatory to a host property,” he explains. “So this is often resolved by providing a link passageway either pitched and glazed or with a flat solid roof with glazed sides.”

FAQs

How much does a conservatory roof cost?

Prices can vary widely depending on the size of your conservatory and the type of roof you’re installing. At the lower end of the scale, a polycarbonate or basic glass conservatory roof might cost between £2,500 and £5,000. For something more substantial like a tiled or hybrid roof, you could be looking at £6,000 to £15,000 or more.

Getting a few quotes from trusted installers is always a good idea, and be sure to factor in things like lighting, ventilation, and any structural work if you are repairing an existing conservatory roof or replacing an older one.

Can I replace an old conservatory roof with a different type?

Yes, and it's one of the easiest ways to improve the comfort, insulation and style of your conservatory. Swapping out a dated polycarbonate roof for a glass, tiled or hybrid version can make a dramatic difference to your space. The most important thing to check is whether your existing conservatory structure can support the weight of a new, heavier roof. Tiled roofs especially need proper reinforcement. Most reputable companies will carry out a structural survey as part of the process.

Which roof is best for energy efficiency?

If keeping your conservatory warm in winter and cool in summer is the goal, solid tiled roofs are your best option. They offer superior insulation and help reduce heat loss and solar gain. That said, high-spec glazed roofs can still perform well, especially if you choose thermally efficient glazing like low-e or solar control glass – both of which allow you to enjoy all the benefits of natural light without sacrificing any of the comfort.

Avoid polycarbonate if energy efficiency is a priority for you. These types of roof may be lightweight but they are not known for their thermal performance.

Do I need planning permission to change my conservatory roof?

In most cases, no – replacing your conservatory roof like-for-like or upgrading to a different material doesn’t usually require planning permission. But there are a few exceptions. If your home is listed, in a conservation area, or the roof design will significantly alter the exterior appearance or height, it’s worth checking with your local planning authority.

You should also consider Conservatory Building Regulations, especially if you’re installing a solid roof. This kind of upgrade might count as turning your conservatory into a permanent extension, so it needs to meet certain insulation and structural standards. A good installer will guide you through what’s required. Read our guide to when a conservatory becomes an extension for more details on this.

Meet Our Conservatory Experts

If you're not quite ready to commit to a full upgrade, conservatory roof repairs can be a smart, budget-friendly alternative, especially for minor structural issues or cosmetic fixes.

Deciding whether kitchen cabinets should go to the ceiling can be a crucial design element when planning a new kitchen. It can be a personal thing too, with some choosing to do so to achieve a tidy look for their cooking space while others might go without because it creates a larger feel to the room.

The decision can be a down to kitchen remodel trends as well. Kitchen wall units went out of style a few years ago, with designers encouraging open shelving. But the realities and practicalities of having concealed storage space is now making a comeback, with floor-to-ceiling cabinets also becoming popular..

Understandably, when something as important as the layout, style and functionality of a kitchen comes into play during, we want to get it 100% right the first time around. In this article, we look at kitchen cabinets height and whether or not they should ever go right up to the ceiling.

Are kitchen cabinets supposed to be full-height?

Whether kitchen cabinets should be full height is debatable. In the past, freestanding kitchens would have used large dresser units to store cookware and servingware and pantries for food stuffs. While these wouldn’t have necessarily touched the ceiling, they would take up a large amount of wallspace.

When fitted kitchens became the norm in UK households, wall units were far more popular set at eye level, or around 600mm - 730mm from the worktop. However, you will notice that even today, wall units don’t reach the ceiling. The kitchen units will have what is known as a cornice to provide a decorative flourish to the top of cabinets, with a gap left between the top of the cabinet and the ceiling.

“The appeal for more streamlined storage has continued to gain momentum over the last year,” explains Al Bruce, founder of Olive & Barr. “We are seeing a desire for a clutter-free kitchen, with crockery and utensils being neatly tucked behind cabinetry doors. Glass-fronted cabinetry is gaining in popularity, with homeowners increasingly choosing to store glassware and other items in this way. Open kitchen shelving still has its place but for more decorative items such as art and ornaments rather than kitchen crockery."

“The concealed kitchen is a nod to the recent trend of ‘back kitchens’ where the inner workings of the kitchen, dirty dishes and ‘messy’ items could be stored away out of sight," continues Al bruce. "As homeowners continue to spend more and more time in the kitchen, the need for the connection to be seamless with other living areas within the home continues and clutter-free is becoming the preferred choice.”

"This design [full-height units] allows for the organisation of kitchen essentials, with everyday items being easily accessible at lower levels and less-used items, such as baking tins and formal dinnerware, being stored higher up,” adds Molly Chandler, designer at Willis & Stone. “Floor-to-ceiling storage will also enhance the overall aesthetic of a kitchen, by creating a cohesive appearance which feels more open and less cluttered.”

When to fill the gap between cabinets and the kitchen ceiling?

“There is no right or wrong with floor-to-ceiling cabinetry. They can be tailored to any sleek contemporary or traditional style kitchen, using various design methods,” explains Molly Chandler. “If you have taller ceilings than your average property, floor-to-ceiling cabinetry can help to accentuate the height, whilst utilising the storage space available.

“Many kitchen manufacturers have a ‘standard installation height’ they work to, so adding top boxes above the standard tall run of cabinetry can both be visually appealing and practical for the home owner.

“Some may not need the extra storage space, so using the top boxes for just visual purposes can be really effective to the overall kitchen look. Opting to have these top boxes glazed in a traditional Georgian-style kitchen can also look more grand, with an added lighting feature to create more visual depth and height, whilst also being able to display ornaments to add more character.”

Shop kitchen baskets and cabinets

Why is floor-to-ceiling kitchen cabinetry not right for every house?

Sometimes, in kitchens with low ceilings, such as those in cottages or basement conversions, full-height units can feel overbearing and encourage the room to appear claustrophobic. However, a kitchen with a ceiling height of at least 2.1m should allow enough room to breathe.

If you’re unsure about having a full run of floor-to-ceiling units throughout the kitchen, perhaps mix-and-match with some statement larger cupboard or above in-built ovens.

FAQs

Are floor-to-ceiling cabinets more expensive?

“The cost of having floor to ceiling cabinetry can vary depending on the height available, but typically there will be an added 5% charge for altering the height of your kitchen cabinets. If top boxes are being added above this, there will be an extra cost per cabinet,” advises Molly Chandler.

What is the current trend for kitchen wall units?

"Maximising a kitchen’s storage potential is a trend which is continuing in 2025,” comments Molly Chandler, “No longer satisfied with their current storage options, homeowners are choosing to install floor-to-ceiling cupboards, which is a highly efficient design solution that maximises every inch of vertical space.

“Sleek floor-to-ceiling pantries remain popular, these understated cabinets blend seamlessly into a kitchen design and provide maximum storage, without encroaching on precious floor space.”

For more advice on how to plan or adapt your kitchen, take a look at our guides to how much a kitchen will cost in 2025, how to design a kitchen island, and how to choose between a fitted or freestanding kitchen.

Choosing the right ceiling lights for your kitchen can be quite the challenge. Should you go for the sleek practicality of recessed spotlights, the statement-making appeal of pendant kitchen lighting, or a layered combination of both? To help you navigate these choices, we asked top kitchen and lighting experts to share their industry insights.

From selecting the ideal fixtures to designing a flexible kitchen lighting scheme with dimmers and circuits, we’ve put together a straightforward guide to what you need to know to light your kitchen beautifully. Whether you’re renovating the entire space or simply upgrading your ceiling lights, these expert tips will help you make the best choice for your home.

The importance of lighting for kitchen ceilings

"Kitchen lighting design needs to have the most flexible interior lighting scheme in the home to reflect the wide range of functions which kitchens are now used for," explains Luke Thomas, design director at John Cullen Lighting. "Ceiling lighting is essential in a kitchen because it provides general illumination for the space, ensuring functional lighting for activities such as preparing food, cooking, and cleaning, as well as general illumination to create a welcoming environment."

The Best Ceiling Lighting For Kitchens

"When selecting the right ceiling lights for a kitchen, it's important to first determine how you want the space to feel," says Hanna Walter, creative manager at Heathfield & Co. "Bright and energising, warm and inviting, or something in between. Consider how you want to strike the balance between ambient, task and accent lighting to create an atmosphere that suits your needs."

Brightness and warmth

When it comes to brightness and warmth for kitchen ceiling lights, you want to find a good balance between functionality and atmosphere. Bright, cool-toned lighting (around 3000K to 4000K) is ideal for task-heavy areas like countertops, islands, and sinks, as it provides the crisp clarity needed for chopping, cooking, and cleaning. However, incorporating warmer tones (2700K to 3000K) in dining or entertaining areas helps create a cosy, inviting ambience perfect for family meals or social gatherings.

Pendant kitchen lights

"In a kitchen with high ceilings, look at visually lowering the sense of scale by adding low hanging pendants over the island," says Luke Thomas. "This can also help delineate the space in an open plan kitchen."

Hanna Walter agrees, "Pendant lights are perfect for kitchen ceilings, as they can be hung individually or in small groups and create a statement without feeling obtrusive or taking up valuable space on the countertops," she explains. "We would always recommend hanging pendants around 36cm above any worktops or kitchen islands to provide task lighting but also keep the space feeling spacious and airy. Keep in mind how spacious your kitchen is and select the size and quantity of pendant lights accordingly, so as not to overwhelm the space or create a stark feeling."

Helen Parker, creative director at deVOL kitchens, suggests keeping your kitchen pendant lights subtle and not too overpowering, "It's hard to resist the urge to really make your mark with these types of light, but try to be less obvious and go for simple, understated and beautiful designs."

Shop kitchen ceiling pendant lights

Ceiling Downlights & Spotlights

Ceiling spotlights or downlights are another excellent choice for kitchens. Whether you’re prepping meals or simply showing off your kitchen countertops, downlights provide a good level of illumination without drawing attention away from your décor.

To get this type of lighting right, placement is key. Instead of arranging spotlights in a standard grid, Luke Thomas recommends positioning them strategically over worktops, sinks, or other key areas where task lighting is required. This approach not only avoids overloading your kitchen with unnecessary fixtures but also helps highlight the design details you love, like a statement backsplash or worktop.

“Use a low-glare directional downlight to wash the front of your kitchen units,” recommends Luke. “This not only provides a soft, reflected light to the space but also lights inside cupboards when they’re open.”

For kitchens with higher ceilings, downlights work beautifully when paired with pendants. Together, they create layers of light that are both practical and atmospheric. “LED downlights placed between pendants ensure you have good task lighting on the work surface below,” Luke adds.

If you want even more flexibility, consider putting downlights on dimmer switches or separate circuits. This allows you to brighten the space for busy mornings or dial it down for a more relaxed evening ambience.

Shop kitchen spotlights

How to Layer Kitchen Ceiling Lights

A well-lit kitchen doesn’t rely on a single source of light, it’s all about layers of light. By combining different types of lighting, you can create a space that feels balanced, practical, and inviting no matter the time of day or activity at hand. Successful layered lighting blends task, ambient, and accent lights to ensure every corner of your kitchen shines in just the right way.

“Kitchen lighting should strike a balance between atmospheric and functional,” explains Hannah Walter. Her advice is to start with focused lighting for workspaces, like a trio of Nora Pendant Lights by Heathfield & Co above a kitchen island, to provide bright, direct illumination. Then, shift the focus to more ambient features in entertaining spaces. “The Rayne Chandelier by Heathfield & Co is a real conversational piece and emits a warm, diffused glow to create a calming atmosphere,” she adds.

For added dimension, Luke Thomas suggests looking beyond downlights. “Layered lighting will add more interest and impact than just using kitchen downlights. Consider using LED linear strip lights or adding discreet uplights to a dark corner or to light an arch or doorway,” he advises. Installing linear lighting above cabinets is another clever trick, as it reflects light upward, softening the overall effect and reducing the need for excessive downlights.

Don’t forget the softer touches, either.“Combining ceiling lights with wall lights is a great way of mixing up the feel of a room,” says Helen Parker. “To create a softer light and really give character to the room, I would always recommend wall lights in a kitchen. A little pool of light in a dark corner can make all the difference – unexpected lighting and a little styling can really elevate a space.”

FAQs

How can you use dimmer switches for kitchen ceiling lights?

"Kitchen lighting always works best when you allow for flexibility to change the mood from the daytime, when you want it to be bright, to the evening, when you are looking for a more subdued light to entertain by," explains Luke Thomas from John Cullen Lighting.

"To achieve this, firstly put your lights on different circuits. Wall lights, under cupboard lights, downlights and feature lighting should all on different circuits so each can be controlled individually. At a minimum fit dimmers, or if budget allows fit a pre-set control system that can change to different moods at the touch of a button."

For further guidance, you may want to read our guide to the basics of electrics

How many downlights do I need in a kitchen?

Getting the number of downlights right depends on your kitchen’s size and layout. As a rule of thumb, one downlight per 1.5 square metres (16 square feet) works well, but placement matters more than quantity. Focus on positioning downlights directly over task areas like counters and sinks, and avoid placing them near walls to prevent shadows. To keep the space feeling balanced, pair downlights with other lighting, such as pendants over an island or LED strips under cabinets. In small kitchens, 3-4 downlights are usually enough, and using dimmers or separate circuits helps create a flexible, adaptable lighting scheme.

What are the common mistakes to avoid with kitchen ceiling lighting?

One of the biggest kitchen lighting mistakes is over-lighting, which can make the space feel harsh and clinical. Instead, focus on strategically placing lights where they’re needed most, like over worktops and sinks. Placing overhead lighting too close to walls is another common pitfall, as it can create unflattering shadows. To add depth and interest with ceiling lights, focus on layering your lighting by mixing pendants, wall lights, and under-cabinet fixtures.

Want to get your kitchen just right? Avoid these common kitchen design mistakes during your renovation or self-build project, and explore expert tips for lighting a kitchen island if it’s set to become the heart of your cooking space.

While it can be easy to assume the simple answer to what is a contemporary home is that it is one defined by modern architectural design, the reality is it's about more than just the aesthetics.

Instead, ask most architects and they'll respond with a variety of answers ranging from how the building functions, its sustainability, right through to how it looks and how long it will last.

Unlike some house design ideas, which revolve purely around certain eras, styles or features, contemporary home design is not a fixed concept, but is one that evolves according to the world we live in at that time.

Most of the predictions around contemporary homes in 2024 still stand true – after all, one year isn't really long in the world of construction, with new products, build methods and designs often taking far longer than 12 months to develop and establish.

But, what's changed in the last year, and what can we expect to see as a growing trend in contemporary homes in 2025? Here's what experts predict.

What is a contemporary home vs a modern home?

Although the words contemporary and modern are often used in the same breath, there's a difference between the two in the world of architecture.

"Contemporary architecture is a fluid style that incorporates current trends and technologies, while modern architecture is a defined historical style from the early to mid-20th century," says Stuart Archer, co-founder and director of Archer + Braun.

"I think people still think in their head that a contemporary home is a white box with lots of glass," he adds, "and while that has been the case in the past, I do think that there are now lots of other things considered when designing a new home."

In reality, there is there no true fixed style when it comes to contemporary self builds or extensions. A contemporary home is of the moment. It should respond to the climate it will need to withstand, as well as being capable of adapting easily over time.

And while improvements in design, technology, building materials and products means contemporary homes naturally have a more polished, streamlined finish, this doesn't mean there's little scope for personality or stand-out features. In fact, it's the opposite, with everything from brick extension ideas through to pitched roof extension ideas all embracing the advancements to their advantage.

How will we define what is a contemporary home in 2025?

1. Expect a focus on well-being in the design

As the world of well-being continues to grow in general, it's perhaps no surprise that it's infiltrating its way into contemporary homes too. Building a 'healthy home' can be achieved in a number of ways. Using products and finishes that are free from or low in chemicals is a great start, as is ensuring good air quality through the use of effective and modern methods of ventilation.

In fact it's a trend we noted for 2024, with Paul Testa, architect and director at HEM Architects, noting how mechanical ventilation with heat recovery (MVHR) should be established as a key element in self build and retrofit projects, as a means of maintaining excellent air quality, without increasing heat demand in the house.

However, in 2025, we can expect this trend to also extend to the outdoors.

"We have certainly seen more architects (ourselves included) that are trying to take the wellbeing trend to the next level," says Stuart Archer. "For example we have designed a secret bath/spa area with a mini-courtyard in one of our spaces recently. This space has ambient lighting, looks out onto plants, is partially clad in travertine, a natural stone with a beautiful linear pattern/vein and a course of textured microcement.

"It and has a sunken bath so it feels like you are shutting yourself away from the modern world. You can leave your phone outside, grab a book (and or drink) and light a candle to forget all your worries for a period of time."

The focus on the overall well-being and health of the occupants of a house is an increasing priority and something we predict will continue for the foreseeable future.

2. There will be a more considered approach to using glass

Although frameless glass extensions and large swathes of strutural glass are without doubt a great example of cutting edge technology, climate change means we are seeing a more considered approach as to how glass is being used in buildings.

"Architects are more likely to be selective about the amount of glass they use in contemporary homes," says Stuart Archer. "Instead of using it everywhere, designs will instead focus on using it only where a particular view requires it. The added benefit? Energy efficiency," he adds.

Architect David Nossiter of David Nossiter Architects agrees: "Global warming and a fashion for larger glazed openings have highlighted overheating as an ever pressing concern," he says. "Planners increasingly require designers to limit areas of south facing glazing, submit glass specifications and make provision for solar shading."

"It has been well reported that a move towards more glass in buildings is resulting in overheating," notes Ben Hawkins architect at Granit Architecture + Interiors.

"The challenge of how to get natural light (and when needed warmth) in without suffering from excessive solar gain is front and centre. Contemporary architects are addressing this through the careful planning of glazing locations and shading, strong projecting elements, whether overhangs or brise soleil have become prominent features.

"This is supported by the new Building Regulations Part O," says Ben, "and a good example of where regulations and design meet and how a good architect will work within the constraints to create an outstanding piece of architecture."

3. Timber and renewable materials will continue to grow in popularity

In recent years, as homeowners become more aware of the impact our homes can have on the environment, building, extending or renovating with sustainability in mind has become front and centre of many contemporary home designs. It's a trend that shows no signs of abating.

"Homes are now far more likely to be clad or made of a natural material such as a cross-laminated timber structure paired with timber cladding for example," agrees Stuart Archer.

"Designers will continually need to change their approaches to reach emerging new targets, which are beyond the current standards set by building control, and clients should be open to adapting their brief to accommodate more sustainable methods of design and construction – such as using timber frame SIPS panels, floating buildings above the ground instead of placing them on concrete bases within the ground etc." says Ian Phillips, director of VESP.

"Whilst the buildings we construct now are very efficient in terms of their space heating, and can utilise energy production through PV panels, the embodied carbon of a new house may still be high if designed in a certain way, for example with lots of concrete in the ground and lots of glass in the elevations," explains Ian Phillips.

Using renewable materials may be just one step that can be taken in order to achieve a more sustainable home, yet it is hugely important going forwards.

4. Eco-upgrades will make existing homes more contemporary

Of course, a contemporary home doesn't necessarily mean the construction of a self-build or new property. In order to protect the longevity of existing housing stock, it's equally as important to take a contemporary approach when renovating a house as it is when building once from scatch.

Retrofitting a home is about more than adding in a modern kitchen and bathoom. It's about ensuring the fabric and structure of the home receives the necessary upgrades to protect both it, and the inhabitants.

Simon Bones, founder and CEO of Genous, says homeowners are, and will continue to focus on contemporary eco-upgrades when renovating a home over the coming years.

"Losing less heat through your walls, floors, roof and windows by taking a fabric first approach to your contemporary home design is the first move when renovating," says Simon.

"Cavity wall insulation and insulating a loft are the easiest and highest payback measures, but floors, roof-rooms and even solid walls can be insulated. Upgraded windows also improve the appearance of a home to make it more contemporary, as well as the comfort levels," he adds. "Performance glazing means less heat escapes but also reduces solar gain in midsummer, so again makes your home temperature more stable.

"Underfloor heating remains a great contemporary addition that can also work really well with heat pumps – another contemporary and eco addition to a renovation," says Simon, noting how he also predicts we will move more towards electricity in the future.

"Solar panels are not a new concept anymore," notes Simon, "but an increasing number of households are seeing the benefit of going fully electric, incorporating electric vehicle chargers and heat pumps with solar panels. EVs are half the price to run, or better from a mileage perspective at today’s electricity and petrol/diesel prices if you can charge at home. Relying less on traditional fuels such as oil or LPG makes for more a more contemporary and intervention-free home.

In recognition of this need for more eco-friendly and sustainable existing homes, the Passivhaus Trust have set a standard for retrofit termed Enerphit, which is more stringent than the minimum Building Regulations requirements, but not as strict as new build Passivhaus.

"We need to choose to re-imagine and breathe new life into old existing buildings, where the carbon has already been used and locked up," adds architect Darren Bray director of Studio Bad Architects.

"The focus has to be on eco efficiency and so many self builders are choosing to do this. Its about re-imagining buildings and heritage assets that have low impact and low energy usage, but have big architectural impact on contemporary models of reuse and retrofit projects."

5. Contemporary home design will be based around lifestyle

Although any good architect will be keen to understand your needs in order to design your home, creating a design based around the way we live, rather than just the way it looks will continue to form the cornerstone of what makes a contemporary home. And it applies to both new and older properties.

"We love working on new build houses because you can start from scratch and make the most out of a potential site's orientation, views and plan out exactly how a client wants a house to be," says Stuart Archer. "However with the right approach, this is still achievable with a renovation or extension.

"In a period property for example, you can offer a client the best of both worlds - traditional and cosy spaces that show off their original features be that cornicing, architraves, or flooring and new spaces that are more suited to contemporary life that are more engaging with the garden, and encourage more communal types of activities (like eating together, making food together) in a lighter and brighter space."

"We are of the opinion that contemporary (or modern) homes should be of the moment in terms of aesthetic and shouldn’t try and replicate an old period country house or townhouse with historic features," says Stuart Archer when asked how he feels an existing home can be given a more contemporary look.

"Doing this feels like an imitation and will never have the charm of something that has aged naturally over hundreds of years," he adds.

"With period homes we think that as long as you take into consideration the significance of the property and its features, then there is always a way on introducing something contemporary in a way that compliments what is already there."

Clever use of communal spaces also leads us naturally onto the next point which, with rising house costs, mortgage rates and increased rents shows no sign of changing in the coming years, and it's the concept of multi-generational homes.

6. Demand will continue to grow for multi-generational homes

In many ways lifetime homes is not really a modern-day concept but one that harks back to the days when it was the norm for several generations to live together under one roof – something that is once again happening for families due to an ageing population and an ever growing cost of living..

And while "ageing populations are leading designers to consider flexible living spaces and multi-generation accommodation," said David Nossiter in 2024, in 2025, there is the increasing sense that homes will also need to accommodate young adults for longer than parents once thought.

It's a concept I'm becoming increasingly aware of myself, with two sons aged 19 and 12. While our three bedroomed flat seemed sufficient 2 years ago, as my eldest is now unlikely to be in a financial position to leave home for a number of years yet, the lack of space and suitable layout is becoming ever more apparent.

Were I in a position to renovate or build a home, I would certainly be designing one based on very different needs to how I would have in the past. Large, open plan living spaces would certainly be eschewed in favour of a more broken-plan scheme where we could all come together when we wanted to, but equally find solace in smaller spaces of our own.

7. Designs will have to adapt to trickier sites

It is no secret that it remains increasingly difficult to find building plots on which to construct new homes – particularly for individual self builders. While services such as Plotfinder help narrow down your search, contemporary home design is changing as it adapts to creating a home on a less traditional site.

From infill plots that require designers to think of ways of getting the most usable space out of a tight site, to homes built on brownfield sites and on pieces of land that might not previously have been considered for building a home on, such as redundant petrol stations, it will become more and more necessary for self builders and the architects they turn to for a design to come up with solutions that may look quite like nothing we have seen before.

8. Clever technology will continue to make life easier and brighter

No-one can be unaware of how much technology has advanced in the world in the last couple of years and home design and building have not missed out on these developments.

Whether it's the ability to make life easier with voice or app activated appliances, fixtures and fittings, or technologies that minimise environmental impact such as air source heat pumps and photovoltaic panels, there are also changes ahead in the world of lighting that experts think will soon mark out a contemporary home.

"We’ve just been to a lighting show," say Stuart Archer, "where we learned about ’tunable’ white lights.

"The colour of natural light changes throughout the day from a cool blueish light in the morning to a warm yellow/orange at dusk and now artificial lighting is trying to mimic this which we think is interesting," he says.

And while it's a concept we've seen on daylight lamps or SAD lamps for some time, integrating it into our main lighting design was also noted as one of this year's lighting trends. "It could be just the pep everyone needs in the morning," quips Stuart and I'm inclined to agree.

So from smart bathroom innovations to smart kitchens, get ready for cookers and ovens that take over the task of getting meals ready for you, for extractor fans that sense when they are needed and at what power level, toilets that double up as showers, glass that senses sunlight levels and a whole host of clever technology in contemporary homes.

9. Colour will be more predominant in contemporary homes

“Contemporary, when thinking of colour, used to mean monochrome black and white; it meant stark and often cold," says Pereen d’Avoine, founder of Russian For Fish.

"We’re now seeing the term encompass more of an embrace of the full spectrum of neutrals, including warmer shades of terracotta and soft, earthy pinks. Architectural details such as exposed beams, the structure of the kitchen, and hardwood floors are often used to this effect to add subtle pops of complementary colour to spaces that consist mostly of beiges and creams.

"However, modernism still refers to spaces with less decorative elements and less visual fuss, so in contemporary homes we picture clean lines, geometric silhouettes, and a focus on incorporating architectural detail that is in itself interesting to the eye – more so than complex patterns or overly bold use of colour," she adds.

Stuart Archer's final advice if you're looking to build or renovate a contemporary home in 2025, make sure you employ the right architect for the job and ensure everyone is well versed in the rules and regulations.

"Since the passing of the Building Safety Act (2022) there is even more reason to employ an architect to oversee a building project," says Stuart. There has always been a myriad of regulations to comply with but this has become even more complex post Grenfell. It’s something that our profession is taking very seriously and we are best placed to ensure that all parties follow best practice."

Keen to know more about the predictions for the year ahead? We've been looking into everything to help you get your project on trend. From the practical elements of what you can expect to pay for new kitchen costs in 2025 through to the paint trends that will define how your home's interior and exterior will be finished, find out what experts say is on the agenda in 2025.

Pitched roof extension ideas might be more expensive than your standard flat roof but the addition of one can change the entire look and feel of your build.

While we usually associate a pitched roof with the drama of a traditional build, it's possible to invoke a contemporary feel to the exterior of the extension too by adjusting materials and being playful with the angles. Meanwhile, inside the extension, a pitched roof "can create interesting spaces with taller head height compared to a flat roof," explains Stuart Archer of Archer + Braun Architecture.

The benefits of a pitched roof don't stop at the visual impact of your extension either.

"Pitched roofs are easier to waterproof and less likely to leak as water runs off them than flat roofs," Stuart Archer explains, adding: "Pitched roof extensions are common when building up to the site boundary of another plot, as there are often height restrictions on the boundary, particularly in cities like London."

Pitched roof extension ideas

A good starting point when it comes to deciding the roof design of your extension is looking at your existing home and deciding which design will complement it and whether it is within your budget.

The technicalities of adding a pitched roof are worth considering too as they can require more planning due to being heavier and made up of more components – timber trusses, tiling, flashing etc. This means putting plenty of consideration into the logistics of bringing your pitched roof to site and adding it to your extension.

Here we take a look at 12 pitched roof extensions ideas for some inspiration.

1. Maximise the height of your ceilings

A great advantage of pitched roofs is that the ridge edge can be higher than a flat roof under permitted development and planning.

"This provides an amazing aesthetic advantage, creating tall spaces and a sense of grandeur often not achievable within the host building,” explains Pereen D'Avoine, architect at Russian for Fish.

"We often use standing seam zinc cladding on our pitched roofs. A standing seam cladding can also be used vertically and can be a good way to visually connect a ground floor extension with a dormer loft conversion. We took this approach on the above kitchen extension project," says Pereen.

2. Create grandeur in a modest space

The owners of this small kitchen extension wanted to maximise space and light in their new kitchen extension, turning it into a bright and airy hub. The footprint of the house itself is quite narrow, which can often be true of terraced homes. So the design looks to magnify the limited space.

The homeowners extended 5.5m from the original building line and created a pitched roof, instead of a flat roof. The huge bifold doors enhance the feeling of openness that the pitched roof creates.

In the summer months, the family can open the bifold doors right back giving full views out onto the garden.

3. Amp up the drama with a double pitch

If you're sold on the idea of a pitched roof, talk to your architect about unique ways that you could incorporate it into your design brief. In this example, by Studio Manifest they upped the drama with a striking 'saw-tooth' pitched roof.

It was a unique approach to a classic wrap-around extension. The rear aspect design was chosen to follow the shape of the existing pitched roof.

“We initially sketched this as an idea to reduce the amount of demolition and think it adds a different dimension from what would otherwise have been a typical square box extension,” says the owner.

4. Extend out to the side with a pitched add-on

As well as the visual plus points there are practical aspects which might give pitched roofs the edge for this type of house extension. Utilising the often cumbersome outdoor space to the side of a house with a side return extension can add an excellent amount of usable space to your interior.

Pitched roofs can be a more practical solution as they are more effective in dealing with water runoff.

5. Flood your home with light with roof glazing

One of the best ways to incorporate glazing into the design of a pitched roof extension is with a glazed roof.

"This dramatically increases the amount of natural light in the space and is particularly effective if added directly above the kitchen, home office or entertaining areas, which require more visibility," says Pereen D'Avoine.

"Sometimes when we suggest ceiling glazing and roof lights there are concerns around costs, but there are amazing off-the-shelf systems that can be used and dressed to give the illusion of a more bespoke application," finishes Pereen.

6. Add a second level to make it look seamless

"For this new extension, it is a steel frame clad in stone up to the eaves level. In order to utilise the volume of the roof, we used ‘flitch’ rafters; steel plates sandwiched between 2 sections of timber," explains architect Scott Donald.

"Without the use of the pitched roof volume, we wouldn’t have been able to get two floors in the extension, so the construction was vital to the success of the space."

"In the above example 'Hocker Farm', we slipped large sections of structural glass above the structure, allowing the rhythm of the rafters to repeat through the whole space."

7. Mix and match flat and pitched roofs

"As you see above, we looked to extend this typical Surrey vernacular house with a mix of flat and pitched roof styles," says architect Adam Knibb.

"On the ground floor, we used a flat roof design to allow a more visual contrast to the existing house. The flat roof brought many benefits such as retaining views out from the first floor, giving an area to provide sedum / grass roof to encourage ecological wildlife. We could also maximise internal spaces with form.

"At the first floor, we extruded a pitched roof style. The pitched roof at this level allowed us to work with the planning visual requirements - we could demonstrate it is subservient to the main house. Internally we took advantage of the pitch by vaulting the spaces which maximised the feeling of space and light."

8. Get your proportions right with perfect angles

"When designing a pitched roof it is important to consider the angle of the pitch — if you use the same angle as the existing building it will help the extension to feel like it marries in," says Lydia Robinson creative director at Design Storey.

"The ratio of the roof to the wall is another important design factor to keep in mind. In areas such as the Cotswolds, low walls are often paired with steeply pitched roofs, making the latter very dominant. This characteristic of the local architecture is often overlooked in the proportions of extensions."

9. Choose a low pitch for your extension

If you're wanting a pitched roof, but don't want to disturb the views from the first-floor rooms, a low pitch is a good small house extension idea.

The angle of this living room's ceiling provides the illusion of a grand vaulted ceiling extension, but in reality, the slope doesn't register as dramatic when viewed from the exterior.

10. Celebrate a pitched roof extension with a vaulted ceiling

When adding floor space to their bungalow, the owners of this house chose to add an oak frame extension with a dramatic vaulted ceiling.

The design of the double-storey extension mimics the similar pitch of the original dormer bungalow and provides a characterful mezzanine master bedroom space.

A pitched roof will also make the overall height of a 2-storey extension taller than a flat roof extension. "But compared against a 2-storey flat roof extension, the eaves height will be lower and will likely tie through with an exiting eaves level. So, subject to planning approval, a 2-storey pitched roof extension is very common," says Scott Donald.

11. Create a butterfly effect and enhance natural light

"One key aspect of Biophilic design is a connection to nature's systems and in particular to natural light," explains Yaniv Peer of Iguana Architects, who designed this semi-detached house extension pictured above.

"Given that the property was north facing we carried out a daylight modelling exercise and the final 3D model that let the most amount of light was the butterfly roof design structure. It allows light during morning family breakfast and the evening dinners."

12. Use glass for a conservatory-style pitched extension

Debating between an extension or conservatory? A pitched roof glass extension has given this house the best of both worlds.

Pitched garden rooms are a popular way of connecting with the garden, but this elegant kitchen extension really shows how you can make a functional space that can be used come rain or shine.

A pitched roof can add light and space in different areas of your extension. If it's a kitchen extension you're planning you'll want to maximise how you use this space by avoiding our common kitchen design mistakes.

Constant condensation on ceilings – or anywhere – usually indicates a problem that needs sorting, and quick. The longer it's left, the more problems will occur further down the line. There may be a simple solution, but in most cases, you are looking at a major job.

But before you start panicking, you need to assess the problem and get some expert advice on what to do. Here, those in the know reveal why it happens, when you should start worrying about condensation on ceilings, and what you can do to deal with it before mould starts to appear.

Is condensation on ceilings a common problem?

Although we are often used to figuring out how to stop window condensation, such as making sure you've invested in the best dehumidifier to remove excess moisture, or ensuring we've installed the best bathroom extractor fans to deal with hot showers, condensation on ceilings isn't always something you expect to see. But, the reality is, it's more common a problem than we think.

“Condensation in the UK is a real problem, affecting one in every five properties," says Andy Simms, from MyBuilder.com.

"Ceilings are a very common place to find condensation because as warm, damp air moves up and hits the cold ceiling, this causes water to form on it. Ceiling condensation can cause problems like mould, structural damage, damp and peeling paint."

But, are there any other contributing factors to suddenly seeing condensation on ceilings?

Try this loft insulation to help stop ceiling condensation

The causes of condensation on ceilings

According to the experts, there are three main factors which can all contribute to the problem of condensation on ceilings.

1. Ventilation issues

“Poor home ventilation is a major cause of ceiling condensation," says Andy Simms. "This is why bathrooms and kitchens are most prone to ceiling condensation, as these rooms produce a lot of steam from showers, baths, and cooking.

"Keeping your windows and doors open while cooking or showering is very important to reduce moisture levels," he says.

Mike Storey, an insulation expert and manager at UK Flat Roofing and Insulation Specialists, stresses the importance of ensuring there is sufficient fresh air in these rooms in order to limit the amount of condensation that is allowed to form.

“Stagnant air traps moisture coming from the steam of your shower or your clothes washing, especially if your windows are sealed or vents are blocked," he explains. "This is particularly bad in humid rooms like bathrooms and kitchens and can lead to moisture buildup which will settle on any cold surface."

“Modern homes designed for energy efficiency often inadvertently reduce airflow, which traps moisture," adds Mike. "This humid air can accumulate and lead to condensation." It's why methods such as house burping, which may sound silly, but is in fact simply a term used to describe regularly allowing stale air out of your home and fresh air in, is especially important during the winter.

"But, it's not just an issue about lack of ventilation," adds Mike. Unwanted ventilation can also be an issue in older properties. Small cracks in ceilings, walls, or window casings of older homes can allow warm indoor air to escape, cooling surfaces and causing condensation.”

2. Insulation – using the right amount

Another contributing factor towards condensation in ceilings is not having enough insulation in your roof or loft space.

“If your loft or roof isn't properly insulated, it can create cold spots on the ceiling," explains Mike Storey. “Gaps in insulation – around recessed lights or edges, for example will create localised cold spots,” he explains.

"So, when warm, moist air from inside your home touches these cold spots, it cools down and turns into water droplets, causing condensation."

There's also a bigger picture at play too, warns Mike Storey. "As well as creating the perfect environment for condensation to form, it can also make the rest of your home chillier too. Cold spots also account for 30% of heat loss in a house."

However, getting the right amount of insulation is also key. “Ironically, if your loft or roof space is over-insulated without adequate ventilation, it can also trap moisture," warns Mike. The consequences? This trapped moisture can then lead to condensation forming in the loft space which can in turn drip onto your ceiling from above, leading to damp patches.

So what can you do to fix this? "Consider hiring an expert to fix or upgrade your insulation," suggests Andy Simms. "It can make a big difference in keeping rooms dry and preventing ceiling condensation.”

While insulating your roof is likely to be a bigger job, if the problem lies with your loft space, insulating a loft is something that can be tackled by a proficient DIYer. Start by understanding the answer to how much loft insulation do I need and then work out your budget based on our guide to loft insulation costs.

3. Broken or damaged building materials

But what if your loft insulation is up to scratch and you have just the right amount? “Missing tiles, damaged flashing, or insufficient underlay can also let cold air seep in, causing condensation on the ceilings below," says Mike Storey. "Rainwater or cold air can enter through damaged roofing, causing leaks and cooling the ceiling which encourages condensation.”

You may also need to take a look at the overall fabric of your building's structure, suggests Mile Storey. “Some materials absorb and retain cold more effectively. ceilings made of concrete, are more prone to retaining cold, meaning condensation will occur in these areas more frequently.”

Rooms where ceiling condensation is more likely to occur

Although problems with insulation or building materials can affect any area of your home, there are rooms in your home that by default will be more at risk of condensation on ceilings, says Mike Storey.

• Bathrooms: “Condensation is more common in rooms where humidity levels are naturally higher, like bathrooms Hot showers and baths fill the air with steam, saturating the air with moisture. Poor ventilation will lead to moisture accumulating on the ceiling, so it is important to open windows after a shower or use the window’s trickle vents.”
• Kitchens: “Condensation will occur when you are cooking, particularly when you are boiling water, including using your kettle. This generates steam, which rises and condenses on cooler surfaces, and is more likely to come in contact with your ceiling if you are not using an extractor fan.”
• Bedrooms: “It might be surprising, but it is possible to create condensation on the ceiling while asleep. As you sleep, your body sweats and the humid air from your breath can reach the ceiling, walls or windows. This is more likely in winter, as you will have the doors or windows closed to keep the warmth in, although this limits the ventilation in the room.”
• Utility rooms: “You’re more likely to dry your clothes in the home during winter, but this is a major contributor to moisture build-up. Condensation in utility rooms can be caused by moisture trapped in the area. Heat from dryers can also create condensation if ventilation is blocked.”

Try these dehumidifiers to help remove excess moisture

The main ways to tackle condensation on ceilings

The two main approaches to dealing with condensation on ceilings are clear, say the experts: ventilation and insulation.

“Make sure each room in your house is ventilated properly, especially bathrooms and kitchens where condensation builds up more frequently," says Mike Storey. "Use extractor fans and open windows or trickle vents to remove moisture from the air, specifically after a shower or bath.”

Secondly, make sure your home has the correct levels of loft or roof insulation and the best type of loft ventilation .

“Proper insulation in your loft or roof space can help maintain a consistent temperature and reduce the risk of condensation. Inspect for cracks in the plaster, especially where pipes, cables and light penetrate the loft space. Loft hatches that aren’t fitted well can also cause air leaks and might require sealant or insulation to block.”

FAQ

Is condensation on ceilings the same as condensation on walls?

You may be asking yourself, if you have condensation on walls will you automatically have it on the ceiling?

“If you have condensation on your walls, you won’t always have it on your ceiling, although it’s common for both to occur in certain conditions," explains Mike Storey.

"The likelihood of it appearing will depend on the temperature and ventilation in the room. However, walls, especially external ones, are often more exposed to outdoor temperatures and may cool down faster than ceilings, making condensation more likely to form on the surface. Additionally, sources of moisture like steam from cooking or showers, often settle on walls before reaching higher surfaces.

"On the other hand, ceilings can remain unaffected as long as the insulation is sufficient," he says.

"However, in rooms with high humidity, poor ventilation, or fluctuating temperatures, condensation can affect both the wall and ceiling simultaneously, as the moisture in the air will settle on any cool surface it encounters.” Make sure you follow the advice on the minimum house temperature to avoid unnecessary fluctuations in your home's ambient temperature.

Worried about the signs of condensation in other areas of your home? Find out what causes condensation inside double glazed windows and follow these tips to help prevent condensation in conservatories.

Knowing how to insulate a vaulted ceiling will leave you with the architectural delights they bring to a home, but with the benefits of much improved energy efficiency. Perfect for keeping a room warm in winter, cool in summer, and a positive effect on your energy bills.

But what insulation you need, and how to fit and finish are the key components of the process. But, before you even start Samuel Hitch, MD at Buy Insulation Online Ltd recommends that you inspect the rafters first, “Ensure they are deep enough for insulation and ventilation.” Don’t panic most are, and here you’ll get pro advice on how to do the job.

How to insulate a vaulted ceiling? The tools you’ll need

Before you start installing your insulation make sure that you have your tools ready. This will differ slightly depending on what type of insulation you are installing, but the list below covers everything you should need.

• Utility knife (like this Durable Folding Utility Knife from Amazon)
• Staple gun
• Saw or insulation board cutter
• Measuring tape (like this STANLEY FATMAX Tape Measure from Amazon)
• Caulk gun and sealant
• Staple gun/nail gun
• Step ladder
• Safety equipment including gloves, face mask and safety goggles

Try these tools to help insulate a vaulted ceiling

Steps to insulate a vaulted ceiling

Here Samuel Hitch, MD at Buy Insulation Online Ltd goes through the steps you need to follow to add insulation to a vaulted ceiling.

1. Seal ceiling

Before you start adding insulation you need to do some preparation work first. Hitch suggests that you, “Use a caulk gun to seal holes around wires, lights, and pipes. Once this is done you will need to create an air gap.

Hitch shares, “For cold roof systems (where insulation goes between rafters) install 50mm tanalised roofing battens for ventilation. Alternatively, “Simply do not fill the entire depth of the rafters with insulation.”

2. Measure and cut insulation

To start, measure up the width between the rafters and cut lengthways with a knife or saw. The length is determined by the type of insulation you are using. Typically, you will only need to cut the length when you get to the end or middle.

Hitch says, “Fit the insulation between rafters, ensuring snug placement without compression in case of mineral wool, or gaps in case of rigid boards.” Once the insulation is fitted he says, “Either use Gapotape along joints or expanding foam to fill gaps. Cut off expanding foam and tape over with aluminium foil tape.”

3. Install VCL and additional insulation

Now you will need to install a VCL (Vapour Control Layer). Hitch says, “Place the VCL over the insulation (on the inside facing side) installed in the previous step, and seal tightly to prevent moisture build-up.” Use a nail or staple gun to attach the VCL to the rafters and cover these with aluminium foil tape.

He adds, “Now add a layer of insulation i.e. insulated plasterboard, across the rafters, perpendicular to the insulation that's already installed, for enhanced thermal performance. He adds, “To achieve modern building regs it's almost certain you will have to do this.”

To finish, plaster the plasterboard and seal any joints with caulk. Finally, paint your desired colour.

What type of insulation is best for a vaulted ceiling?

Hitch says, “The best choice depends on multiple factors, mostly how to achieve the U values required but also acoustic and fire resistance.”

With these factors in mind, there are several insulation options for vaulted ceilings in the UK. Hitch recommends the following:

• Rigid foam PIR boards - This offers the highest insulation value of most commonly available insulation products. One product which is specifically designed for this purpose is Kingspan Thermapitch (available from Amazon) but any PIR insulation would do the trick.
• Rockwool - This is breathable, offers good thermal, acoustic and fire resistant insulation and is easy to install.
• Multifoil insulation - Reflects radiant heat and provides some insulation.
• Sheep's wool - An eco-friendly alternative popular in the UK which is also breathable.

But there are some types of insulation that’s not recommended for vaulted ceilings as Hitch reveals. “Spray foam insulation offers excellent airtightness, but it's not recommended for vaulted ceilings.”

Why? “It can potentially trap moisture and lead to rot in the wooden structure.” He adds a word of warning, “Mortgage providers could potentially refuse to mortgage the property if they find out too.

He also suggests not to use fibreglass in moist areas. He suggests, “In general it is better to go with Rockwool than fibreglass if a mineral wool product is what you prefer.”

Are there any building regulations for vaulted ceiling insulation?

When choosing insulation for a vaulted ceiling, building regulations require a minimum U-value of 0.20 W/m²K for pitched roofs with insulation between rafters.

How can you achieve this? Hitch shares, “Typically to achieve this you would need to add insulation between the rafters and over them too.” So what should be used? Hitch says, “Insulated plasterboard significantly enhances the thermal performance of a vaulted ceiling.” He adds, “This method is especially effective for meeting modern UK Building Regulations.

Does vaulted ceiling insulation need an air gap?

Yes. Hitch explains that, “It's usually done retrospectively without taking the external roof structure off, therefore it is classed as the cold roof method.” But how thick should the insulation material be? “The standard recommendation is a 50mm ventilation space between the top of the insulation and the roof underlay.”

But what does the air gap do? “This gap allows for airflow that helps prevent condensation and the timbers from rotting as a result.”

And there are a few other pointers to follow as Hitch reveals, “Maintain consistent spacing of the air gap to ensure uniform ventilation across the entire roof area.” He adds, “The air gap should be continuous from the eaves to the ridge to allow proper air flow.”

Finally, “Ensure that there are adequate openings at the eaves, soffits and especially the ridge to allow air to enter and exit the gap.”

Insulating a vaulted ceiling is just one way to make a home more energy efficient. Insulating a wall is another smart choice, as well as learning how to insulate a loft. If you don't want to do it yourself, check out our loft insulation costs guide.

Looking at house rendering costs is a good starting point when considering opting for this finish for your new build or renovation.

House rendering can be an excellent choice for providing better insulation and weather protection, but it can be difficult to work out the cost of applying it. This is because the cost can differ greatly based on a number of factors, including the render type, the size of the area to be rendered, and the particulars of the project.

But like any building project, whether you're updating an older home or adding a modern finish to a new build, knowing the costs involved is essential for budgeting and planning, . Here we dive into house rendering costs and all the factors that might affect them.

House rendering costs – by render type

Selecting the appropriate render type requires evaluating the costs associated with the precise specifications and features of the property. Even though the initial costs could differ, taking into account factors like lifespan, maintenance, and aesthetic appeal will help guarantee that the render of choice increases the home's worth and longevity.

Additionally, homeowners should consider speaking with qualified plasterers/renderers to get comprehensive estimates and guidance, specific to their project needs.

Depending on the type of render selected, the size of the property, and other project-specific requirements, the cost of rendering a typical house could vary significantly. But, to give you an overview, the following are costs for the most typical types of render, based on the necessary labour and materials for a standard three-bedroom home with a surface area of between 100 and 150/m2.

1. Cement render costs

• Average cost from £40 to £60/m2.
• Typical house costs: £4,000 to £9,000 in total

The most standard used form of render is cement render. Although reasonably priced, it needs to be painted and repaired on a regular basis. In time it is prone to cracking, particularly if the wall structure beneath it shifts or lowers.

2. Acrylic render costs

• Average cost from £50 to £70/m2.
• Typical house cost: £5,500 to £10,500

Acrylic render is less likely to crack since it is more flexible than cement render. Over a base render, it is applied as a thin finishing coat. It is well-known for its longevity, resilience to water damage, and tolerance to UV rays, It also comes in a variety of colour options.

3. Silicone render costs

• Average cost from £60 to £80/m2
• Typical house cost: £6,000 to £12,000

Excellent water repellency, flexibility, and durability characterise silicone render. Additionally, it has excellent breathability, which helps avoid moisture-related problems such as damp. Modern homes frequently choose silicone render since it is self-cleaning and requires less upkeep.

4. Monocouche render costs

• Average cost from £45 to £70/m2
• Typical house cost: £4,500 to £10,500

Painting is not necessary with monocouche render which is a through-coloured, single-layer render. Applying it can be done quickly which saves on labour costs. This kind of render is well-liked for both new construction and renovations because it provides a clear, neat finish. Because of the material's qualities, it might be more costly than cement render, despite requiring less upkeep.

5. Lime render costs

• Average cost from £70 to £100/m2
• Typical house cost: £7,000 to £15,000

Because lime render is flexible and breathable, it is typically utilised for older or period homes, such as cottage renovations. It is a sustainable solution that's effective in controlling the amount of moisture in walls. Because lime render requires specialised knowledge to apply and costs more for materials, it could turn out more expensive.

Factors that affect house rendering costs 

Like all building projects and their individual trades, other than the type of render used, there are also several other factors that will influence your house rendering costs.

1. Area size – The render cost increases with the size of the surface area that needs to be rendered. Since costs are usually determined on a square metre basis, even slight variations in area, shape and number of openings, can have a big effect on the total amount budgeted for.

2. Preparation work – More preparation work will be needed if the current background is broken, uneven, or covered in outdated render. This can involve base coat application, crack repair, and cleaning, all of which raise the final cost.

3. Scaffolding – This may be required for taller homes or areas that are challenging to access, which raises costs.

4. Labour – The area, the complexity of the work, and the level of expertise of the participating tradespeople can all affect labour costs. Generally speaking, more complex designs or difficult tasks can call for specialised labour, which might increase costs.

5. Location costs – Final costs can differ dramatically based on where the project is located. Compared to rural locations, labour and material prices are typically greater in urban areas, especially in London and the South East of England.

6. Weather – The ideal weather for rendering is moderate and dry. The cost may go up if the work has to be done during a season when weather patterns are less predictable to accommodate possible delays, or the requirement for protective measures to prevent ‘wash off’.

7. Material specification – The cost will also be influenced by the specifications of the materials used. Although higher-quality materials may cost more up front, they frequently last longer and need less maintenance over time, so they are more cost-effective in the long term.

8. Accessibility and detail – Less accessible projects such as those on small streets or with complex architectural details may cost more because they take longer to complete, and require specialised tools and scaffolding.

New-build vs renovation rendering costs

Renovating an existing property versus building a new one has many different factors that can affect the final cost. While the cost of a new build is typically more readily identifiable and foreseeable, renovations include a number of other factors that may increase costs.

Additional costs in renovation projects can be caused by insufficient surface preparation, repairs, incompatibility of materials, and unforeseen issues. When thinking about rendering for new builds versus renovations, you will be better able to budget and prepare for unexpected challenges easier on a new build by being aware of these distinctions.

Always allow a contingency sum of at least 15% for a renovation project, to cover you for those ‘rainy days’.

Cost of house render with external wall insulation

If you are considering rendering your house then external wall insulation (EWI) may be worth considering. Firstly because it will improve the energy efficiency of your home, and secondly because there are various grants available for this product at the moment so it may not cost you anything at all. Expect to pay and between £60-80/m2 for your external wall insulation costs.

To help with budgeting for this additional factor, consider the Great British Insulation Scheme, a government programme which helps British homes become more energy-efficient. Targeting the nation's least energy-efficient houses, it is managed by Ofgem and aims to combat fuel poverty and lower energy costs. The programme, commonly referred to as ECO+, is different from the ECO 4 scheme, which is intended for low-income households.

Additional house rendering costs to consider

Scaffolding costs may be necessary for any kind of rendering project, particularly for townhouses. This could increase the overall cost by up to £1,500, based on the project's size and complexity and timeline for the project.

The cost may also increase if the current surface needs significant preparation, such as cleaning, repairs, or the removal of outdated render by ‘hacking off’. The cost of preparation work could increase by £10 to £30/m2.

There’s no doubt about it that any form of plastering is messy, so make sure you or your tradesperson has allowed for protection in their quotation.

Finally, who is providing the skip at a price of at least £280 for those old bags of render and surplus materials? Try and push this cost into the plasterer’s quotation, so that they fill the skip much more effectively and efficiently than if you were paying for it.

FAQs

How much does house render cost to maintain?

Factor in painting cement-based render every four years as part of ongoing maintenance costs. A regular check will also mean you spot any need for render repair. For a typical semi-detached house, expect to pay up to £1,500 for a painter, materials and a tower scaffold.

If you’ve opted for external wall insulation, acrylic, silicone or monocouche then these finishes may just require a hydro wash every 4-5 years as they are self-coloured. There are plenty of professional companies online who offer this quick and effective service for around £250 for a typical terraced house.

How much value will the new render add?

Enhancements in appearance, such as rendering, can raise a property's value straight away. A well-rendered property is frequently seen as being more substantial, well-cared for, and modern, though the precise value added will vary based on things including the type of render, quality of craftsmanship, and the local housing market.

Higher valuations and asking prices may result from these perceptions. Rendering may raise the value of a home by as much as 5-10% in certain circumstances, particularly in places where contemporary design is highly desired. Consult a nearby estate agent to determine the additional value.

It's critical to assess the property values in your neighbourhood. By exercising caution in this manner, you can guard against the risk of investing money on rendering your property, but it doesn't increase the property's value and so prevent financial losses.

How do I find a tradesperson to render my house?

The best tradesperson to apply house rendering are plasterers, not builders. Preferably time served with City and Guilds qualifications too. If it’s external wall insulation you’re after, then approach some EWI companies directly, as this is a different process to traditional plastering.

When it comes to getting render quotations, invite the companies or tradespeople to the project so they can see the work required, including any access issues, hacking off and repairs if it’s a renovation. I always advise clients to get a minimum of four written quotations when pricing any element of building work as that way you get a broad spectrum of prices to compare and contrast.

If you are still planning your project, take a look some of our house rendering ideas for inspiration on how to finish off the exterior. From mixing render with cladding to using render on an extension to ensure none of the character of your home is lost, we've got all sorts of examples for what you can do to maximise the appearance of your build.

Approved Document A of the building regulations focuses on safety and covers all structural elements of buildings, helping to alleviate any concerns you may have if you're building a house or extending your home.

Set in place to make sure the construction work is done properly and that the finished building is structurally stable and safe to live in, Approved Document A is there to provide helpful guidance about how to comply with the regulations.

Part A is quite literally the backbone of any construction project, because it sets the standards for ensuring a building stands up, remains safe, and can withstand everything from heavy snow to ground pressure for the foundations.

The document isn’t exactly an easy read, but if you need to know which structural building codes or standard applies, or what general principles are deemed to comply, then this is where you’ll find them. Here's our guide to everything that it entails.

What exactly does Part A cover?

In simple terms, Part A of the Building Regulations requires that buildings are structurally sound so they’re safe and won’t fall down.

The document itself is split into several sections. Part A1 deals with loading, making sure buildings can safely carry the weight placed on them. Part A2 addresses ground movement – covering risks such as subsidence, heave, and shrinkage, often associated with certain types of soil or nearby trees. Then there’s Part A3, which considers disproportionate collapse – otherwise known as a building’s ability to stand in the event of an accident. .

Part A is underpinned by standards that must be met to ensure that they can safely support the loads placed on them. As well as the loads from everyday use, the guidance also deals with “imposed loads,” which can come from wind, snow, or movement in the ground. Whether you’re building a new house, removing a supporting wall, or installing a steel beam to open up a space, Approved Document A has something to say about how that work should be carried out.

The technical documents that structural engineers reference to do their calculations and assessments are British Standards and Eurocodes. Most of these are harmonised with European norms, which is why you’ll often hear engineers talk about things like Eurocode 2 (for concrete structures) or Eurocode 5 (for timber). In fact, much of the document’s content is intended for professionals rather than homeowners, but understanding its purpose is still important when taking on a project.

In most cases, if you follow the guidance in Part A, you’re safe to assume that the work will comply with building regulations. However, if you choose another approach – such as a new construction system – you’ll need to show that your solution offers equivalent performance, which may require more detailed engineering and more scrutiny from Building Control.

1. Foundations

One of the most critical areas covered in Part A is foundations. The foundation supports the building, and if it’s not designed properly, everything above it is at risk of movement and collapse.

Part A explains that foundations should be deep and wide enough to carry the loads of the building and distribute them evenly into the ground. It also requires that the type of soil and nearby trees (which can affect moisture levels and cause subsidence) are taken into account to address the potential ground movement.

For instance, clay soil can expand and shrink significantly with changes in moisture, so foundations need to be deeper in clay soils, especially near trees to remain stable. When designing foundations, structural engineers are usually brought in to investigate the site conditions and design the appropriate foundation solution.

2. Load bearing walls

Another key aspect are load-bearing parts of a building. This includes walls, floors, beams, and columns, in fact anything that supports weight or transfers loads to a foundation.

If you’re planning to knock down an internal wall, you’ll need to know whether it’s load-bearing. If it is, you can’t just remove it and hope for the best. You’ll need to replace it with something that can carry the same load, usually a steel or a timber beam. Part A won’t tell you what size of beam to use or what material it should be, as that’s the job of a structural engineer. What it does say is that any alteration must not compromise the structural integrity of the building and sets out the standards that must be followed when evolving the design.

Even something as seemingly simple as installing a new window or door can have structural implications. For example, enlarging an opening in a wall may require a lintel to support the wall above. This is particularly important for external walls, which often carry the load of the roof or upper floors.

Part A requires evidence that any structural change is safe and complies with the appropriate standards which is where structural calculations come in.

3. Roof structures

Roofs need to be able to carry the weight of the tiles as well as any loads imposed from wind and snow in winter. If you’re doing a loft conversion, the roof may also need reinforcing to carry the extra loads imposed by flooring and when using it as a room.

Depending on the design, you might need to install roof trusses, dormers, or even a full length ridge beam or purlins to remove structural timbers and free up the rood space. Each of these needs to be calculated and properly designed to prove that the work will be safe.

Disproportionate collapse

Part A also considers something called disproportionate collapse, which is when a small failure in a building leads to a much bigger collapse.

In residential buildings under four storeys, this is less of a risk, but it’s still something to be aware of, especially in flats. The regulations aim to make sure that no single point of failure will bring down an entire structure, so removing a load bearing wall in a flat might be a much bigger problem than you might first think.

The structural engineer role

The role of a structural engineer is central to proving compliance with Part A. Their job is to translate the rules and standards into practical solutions. They produce detailed drawings and calculations showing how loads are carried through the building, define what materials to use, and specify how building elements like beams and joists should be joined or supported. The calculations they produce aren’t optional, they’re essential for Building Control approval.

Once work begins on site, they’ll also carry out inspections such as before pouring foundations. These checks confirm that what’s been built matches the approved design and without them, your project won’t receive final building regs approval.

When to call in a structural engineer

In most cases, if you’re making structural changes – adding an extension, removing a load-bearing wall, cutting a new opening in a wall, or changing the layout of your roof – you’ll need a structural engineer. Their design is needed to prove to Building Control that the proposed work complies with Part A. It’s not just bureaucratic box-ticking and the calculations will be checked, so its essential that they’re done by a professional.

Some small projects, like putting up a partition wall or replacing a like-for-like element, may not need full structural design work. But if there’s any doubt about whether a part of the building is structural or how to go about the work, it’s always safer – and often legally necessary – to get professional advice.

There’s also the matter of insurance and liability. If you’ve made structural alterations to a house without Building Control approval, you could invalidate your buildings insurance or struggle to sell the property. Mortgage lenders routinely ask for evidence of approvals, especially where structural alterations have been made, so even if you’re tempted to cut a few corners, my advice is don’t – always engage a structural engineer, who’ll be able to steer you down the right path.

Of course, compliance with Part A isn’t just a legal requirement, it’s about protecting people and keeping everyone that uses the building safe. Buildings can be damaged by poor construction practices, especially when shortcuts are taken and collapsed walls, sagging floors, cracked foundations can often cost more to repair than the cost of the work in the first place. Working with a qualified structural engineer, to ensure your project complies with Part A, will help prevent these defects and ensure that a building can safely stand the test of time.

Recent changes to Approved Document A

Part A itself hasn’t seen major changes in recent years, however its worth remembering that it references the Eurocodes and other design standards, which do change more regularly. This means that even though Part A may appear not to have changed, there may have been changes that aren’t easily spotted. Fortunately, a structural engineer will understand the Eurocodes and know exactly what is required to achieve compliance, so there’s no need to worry.

Another trend we’re seeing is the growing emphasis on modern methods of construction, including timber frame, SIPs (structural insulated panels), and modular homes. These alternative systems can offer fantastic energy performance and speed of build, but they still have to meet the structural requirements of Part A. Building Control will still want assurance that everything meets the regulations so in many cases, manufacturers provide their own engineering data and certification.

FAQs

Is Approved Document A mandatory?

Compliance with Approved Document A itself is not mandatory, but meeting the regulations are.

The regulations mandate that building structures must be designed and constructed to withstand loads from gravity, wind, accidents and seismic events both during its service life and when carrying out alterations.

The imposed loads should be able to be sustained and be transmitted to ground safely without causing such deflection or deformation of the building, or the ground that supports it, that the stability of the building is impaired.

Put simply, the building shouldn’t suffer unexpected defects such as cracks or risk to life by collapsing unexpectedly under the weight of a teenager’s party, or a once in a lifetime winter storm.

Whilst this all sounds like important stuff, comprehending the guidance contained in Approved Document A isn’t exactly easy. The information is technical and supported extensively by referenced codes and standards. An in-depth knowledge of structures and the supporting codes and standards is therefore essential to make sense of the guidance and incorporate it into a building design.

The application of Approved Document A is therefore best left to structural engineers and architectural designers, both of whom are competent in interpreting the information and applying its requirements into coherent, and easy to understand drawings.

So although compliance with Approved Document A is not mandatory as such, by following the guidance in the approved document, there will be a presumption of compliance.

However, compliance is not guaranteed, and 'normal' guidance may not apply if the particular circumstances are unusual in some way.

When does normal guidance not apply?

Things can become a little trickier when self-builders adopt cutting edge design coupled with the latest building technologies. Why? They might be unproven and subsequently require extra work.

Here, in the absence of any precedent or standard building practice, structural engineers will need to prove compliance with first principal engineering details and calculations. Although it's unavoidable, you can expect the structural engineer's bill to go up if this applies to your design.

Another example when normal guidance doesn't apply is when you are building on poor ground conditions. Whilst residential buildings are fairly light, if you're building near trees or on clay soils for example, this can be challenging and will likely require investigating foundations for difficult sites. Instead of being able to rely on standard strip foundations, it will be advisable to engage a structural engineer, carry out a ground investigation and design a foundation which is suitable for the ground conditions involved. For example, this may result in you needing pad foundations or piled foundations.

How do I comply with Approved Document A?

Proving compliance with Approved Document A is not just about good construction detailing. Evidence must also be provided in the form of structural calculations to prove that the imposed loads can be sustained, and the building will be safe when in use.

This is where the role of the structural engineer comes in, who will analyse each building element and specify what it should be made from and how it should be built to meet the structural requirements.

As part of the building control approval process, the construction drawings and the structural calculations must be submitted for checking by the approved building control inspector.

From a self-builder's point of view, this is a bit of a ‘tick box’ exercise with the information being submitted and then subsequently approved as part of the plan checking process. The UK doesn’t have extreme weather or complex geological challenges to overcome such as major seismic activity, so our residential houses aren’t usually structurally complex.

Provided that the correct criteria has been applied, such as the wind loads in exposed locations etc, the structural calculations are straightforward and get passed without much of a fuss.

How do I get sign-off?

Having an approved structural design and calculations isn’t enough to prove compliance with the regulations.

To enable a finished building to be ‘signed off’, the approved building control inspector will also want to check the construction has been completed as per the design.

They will therefore carryout inspections at key stages, whether you are building a house or building an extension. From a structural point of view, these are usually prior to concreting the foundations, preparation of the ground floor slab and at first fix stage, prior to closing up so they can see the building structure.

Provided the trades have been issued with the approved design and they’ve followed it, the inspection should take place without a hitch and final sign off from a structural point of view shouldn’t be a problem.

Whether you’re building from scratch or simply opening up your ground floor to create an open plan living space, Part A is one of those parts of the regs that mustn’t be overlooked. Ultimately, Part A is about safeguarding your investment and the people who will live in your home.

It ensures that buildings stand up to everyday use and resist the weather the UK has to throw at it. Whilst its not a document that's suited to casual reading, in structural terms, it’s what turns good design into safe, lasting construction so understanding its purpose and making sure your project complies is absolutely essential.

For more information on the different documents that form part of building regulations, read our guide to Approved Document H for more information on drainage, and find out what your building regulations drawings should include.

Encouraging your kids to remain active indoors with a climbing wall in their bedroom is the latest trend and one we're absolutely here for. It is not hugely costly, but definitely is a special feature that can be made more and more complex as they get older. 

Find out what to consider in terms of safety, preparation and how to include this in children's bedroom design below with our helpful guide. 

Why build a climbing wall

"A climbing wall in a child's room is so much fun. It encourages physical activity and helps build motor skills like strength and coordination," begins Jules Yap, founder of IKEA Hackers, who built a climbing wall in her own home using a series of IKEA purchases.

"As they climb, they'll also learn to problem-solve as they figure out the best way to reach different holds. 

"Nevertheless, parents should only install a climbing wall in their children's rooms with safety in mind. Start with easy-to-grip holds and a low wall, then swap them for more challenging grips and expand the height as your child gets stronger and braver. This way, their room becomes a constantly evolving training ground for their growing bodies and minds."

How to build climbing walls

There are a couple of routes you can take to build climbing wall in the bedroom or playroom. 

First, the easiest option, is to buy pre-built freestanding apparatus. This requires minimal know-how and simple safety precautions. However, children might quickly grow out of this often-rudimentary set-up, and the bulky nature requires a decent amount of space to make it worth it indoors. 

The next option, and increasing in complexity, is to buy pre-made panels that simply need to be fastened and secured to the bedroom or playroom wall. Kits like these ones from climbAwall, need a wooden framework for extra security on plaster board. Alternatively, if the wall is solid and of decent quality the panels can be afixed directly to them. The hand and footholds can simply be adapted and changed around as required. 

The final option is the most complex: building the walls yourself. The benefits of this allow for more bespoke designs, including angled overhangs for more complex bouldering. Plywood of at least 25mm in thickness is required. 

Although some utilise pre-existing furniture to adapt into a climbing wall, Jule Yap, who went down this exact route shares her concerns. "While the IKEA climbing wall hack sounds creative and cool, it may not be for everyone. Every child is different, so is every parent and his or her DIY skills. 

"Modifying furniture can compromise its original sturdiness. Unless you're very handy and confident in your building skills, a pre-built climbing wall with certified safety features might be a better option, especially for younger children."

Climbing wall costs and where to buy parts

Climbing holds can bought easily and cheaply from places like Amazon, or a little more expensive from custom stores, such as Kong Holds. 

Plywood for a 1.2 x 2.4 climbing space would cost around £352 from DIY shops like B&Q, plus batons spaced as you would for studwork costing another £30.

Pre-made panels with holds included, on the other hand, can cost around £420 for the same area from climbAwall. 

Climbing wall safety precautions

You must ensure a safety mat or crash pad is directly underneath the climbing wall, if not directly installed on the floor so it doesn't move away while bouldering is happening. 

"Besides that, climbing walls, even well-built ones, require adult supervision," adds Jules. "Having an at-home-climbing wall doesn't replace the need for proper instruction and watchful eyes. If you're not comfortable supervising your child while climbing, or enrolling them in climbing classes, then this DIY project should not be recreated in your home."

Climbing wall size

In theory, a climbing wall can be as big or as small as you like. Some like to install some small panels and holds above the bed, but others enjoy space for longer routes and more complex activity. There is no minimum ceiling height required, but if you're dealing with very low rooms, consider making the wall longer by going further horizontally. 

Naturally, depending on the age of your child the bigger will be better for a great range of movement as they grow older, but smaller kids just learing to boulder would be very happy with 1.2m x 1.2m kits. 

Climbing wall ideas

1. Create alternative access to a loft bed

This modest-sized kid's bedroom utilises the vertical space masterfully to encourage another way to access the loft bed away from the low sloping eaves. 

A crash mat can be stowed in the under-bed storage, or a a thick foam mat (at least 300mm) could be desined underneath a soft floor covering. 

2. Keep the climbing wall stylish and versatile

Children's bedrooms are a place to express themselves and develop individuality and tastes, so encourage your child to paint the plywood or panel in a colour that interests them – even changing it up every few years. 

This home has also added complexity to the bouldering space, but including ceiling holds and hoop swings. The safety mat is also neatly positioned in the the alcove. 

3. Use aparatus for a temporary approach

Perhaps you're in rented accommodation, or perhaps you have a nagging feeling the climbing phase might not last forever. Whatever the reason, you might not want to drill into walls and have a permanent bouldering wall so using pre-build apparatus could be a great alternative. 

These sets also usually come with a variety of activities for different types of exercise – from swings to monkey bars. 

If you are still designing your child's room from scratch, there are plenty of other fun features you can perhaps consider including, from bunk beds that look like a ship to adding a tiny door for child only access to certain areas. For more inspiration, take a look at our piece on children's bedroom ideas.

Timber build systems are fast becoming one of the most popular methods of self build according to the National Custom and Self Build Association, who suggest that over 40% of self builders now opt to build using structural timber. 

But, despite their popularity, as a result of dated and untrue beliefs many people still remain wary of timber build systems. 

If this sounds familiar and you are someone who loves the idea of using a timber build system, such as timber frame or SIPs for your self-build or extension project, but have concerns over the cost, safety or general suitability, then it might just be time to rethink your options. 

Our construction expert, Mark Stevenson, is here to bust some of the most common myths to reassure you that timber build systems are an extremely viable option and one that could be right for you.

Timber build systems or masonry built properties?

There are so many advantages to take note of when looking at timber vs masonry construction. Yet for some reason, there are still a handful of people, including some professional builders, who just can't shake off the idea that that we should all be a little cautious when considering timber build systems. 

However, while masonry may be the more traditional method, this doesn't always mean it's the right one.  We're taking a closer look at some of the popular myths associated with timber build systems to ensure you have all the knowledge you need to make an informed decision. 

Myth 1. They’re not as strong or stable as masonry

The fact is that all building systems must comply with the same engineering standards and are approved as part of the building regulations process, so a timber home will be just as strong as the alternatives. 

The flexibility of timber systems means they are actually more suited to particularly gusty areas in exposed locations where other, less flexible construction methods, may not be able to withstand the forces of the weather, resulting in problems such as cracking.

Myth 2. Timber systems have limited design flexibility

I’ve heard it said many times before and the truth is that this is simply not correct. 

Both timber frame and SIPs are specifically designed and manufactured to suit bespoke architectural designs. Panels are manufactured to suit the dimensions required and there’s no truth in the belief that rooms are limited to panel sizes. 

In fact, due to their expectational thermal performance, timber frame and SIPs can unlock architectural freedom, enabling the creation of ‘wow’ features such as elevational glazing which many self builders crave.

Myth 3. There’s a fire risk

Yes, timber burns, but as these building systems are encased in plasterboard which provides the fire resistance for the structure, the performance of timber building systems when tested to EN1365, exceeds the requirements of the regulations. 

Interestingly, masonry builds also use the same floor joist systems as timber build systems, so their fire integrity as a building structure will be just the same.

Myth 4. A timber house will rot

All structural timbers in timber frame systems are kiln-dried to reduce moisture content, stress-graded to meet engineering standards and pressure treated with preservative to protect against dry rot and fungal attack, thereby ensuring structural stability and durability. 

Furthermore, the wood is positioned on the dry side of the structure so, provided you build correctly, maintain claddings properly and don’t ignore leaks, a timber building will last hundreds of years.

Myth 5. I won’t be able to get a mortgage or house insurance

Both types of timber build systems - timber frame and SIPs - have have a host of third party accreditations such as BBA, STA Assure, and LABC Assured. As they’ve been widely used as a structural system for many decades, mortgages and home insurance are widely available. Although it should be noted that as SIPs are classed as a specialist system, you might need to look a little bit harder.

Myth 6. Timber systems, especially SIPs, are difficult to alter and extend

For anyone that doesn’t know what they’re doing, then yes, making alterations can on the surface seem difficult. In truth, timber systems are very easy to extend and provided you consult the manufacturer and follow their guidance, it can be easy. 

Myth 7. It’s cheaper to ‘stick build’

There are two ways to build a timber frame home or extension – stick built on site or with factory manufactured panels. 

Without the factory overheads, stick built will be cheaper, but as it is a slower construction system, on-site project costs will eventually be higher. 

As the lack of panelisation does not enable adequate testing and certification, in my opinion, stick build is not a legitimate alternative to panelised timber frame or SIPs.

Still not convinced that timber build systems are the right option for you? Why not take a look at our in depth guide on how to choose a construction system in order to make sure you pick the best fit for your project.