From the end of March, every household in England should receive weekly food waste collections under the government’s Simpler Recycling reforms.

The government says the changes will ensure the same materials are collected for recycling across the country and help simplify the system for residents.

The new rules mean there will be items you can no longer recycle, and we reveal what can go in these food waste bins, why they're being introduced and if councils are ready for the changes.

Nationwide food waste collections

Under the reforms from the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (DEFRA), all local authorities in England must provide weekly food waste collections from households by 31 March 2026, unless a transitional arrangement applies.

Where councils are introducing the service for the first time, households will typically receive an indoor kitchen caddy and an outdoor food waste container to separate food waste from other rubbish.

What can go in your weekly food waste bin?

Under the new Simpler Recycling reforms, all households in England will be able to recycle their food waste weekly.

We asked DEFRA what residents can include in their weekly food waste bin, and they confirmed all these are allowed:

• Fruit and vegetables, including peelings and cores
• Bread, rice, pasta, cereals and baked goods
• Meat, fish, dairy products and eggshells
• Tea bags and coffee grounds
• Plate scrapings and uneaten leftovers
• Pet food

Some councils may allow compostable liners, but food should be removed from packaging before placing it in the caddy or bin.

Ending the recycling 'postcode lottery'

The changes form part of the government’s Simpler Recycling reforms, which aim to ensure the same materials are collected from households across England.

From the end of March, councils will be required to collect food and garden waste, dry recyclable materials such as glass, metal and plastic, paper and card, and residual waste from kitchen bins.

Officials say this will help simplify recycling rules and make it easier for households to know what can be recycled.

Are councils ready for the changes?

The government says it has provided £261.7 million in capital funding and £79.5 million in resource funding to help councils roll out the new food waste services.

A spokesperson for the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs said: “We’re making over £78 billion available to England’s councils this year, which includes funding for councils to roll out weekly food waste collections.

“Our Simpler Recycling reforms will end the postcode lottery of bin collection and help keep our streets cleaner, while empowering local authorities to continue to deliver services in the way that works best for their communities.”

Officials said more than two-thirds of councils are ready to deliver weekly food waste collections, with over half already providing the service.

From 31 March 2026, recycling rules will change for households across England under the government’s Simpler Recycling scheme.

That means some items people may have previously placed in their recycling bins – including materials often found when clearing out homes or carrying out renovations – will no longer be collected.

Here’s what is changing, which items are affected, and what homeowners need to do to avoid collection problems.

Items that will no longer be collected for recycling

Under Simpler Recycling rules, councils and waste collectors are no longer required to pick up certain items from household recycling bins. This will have an impact on recycling building materials commonly found in kitchens, bathrooms, gardens and renovation projects:

Glass and ceramics

• Drinking glasses, flat glass, mirrors, vases, and window glass
• Glass cookware such as Pyrex
• Candles, crockery and earthenware

Metal items

• Cutlery, pots, pans, and other kitchenware
• Electrical items such as kettles and irons
• Laminated foil, including coffee and pet food pouches
• Pipes and metal packaging that contained paints, engine oils, or antifreeze

Plastic items

• Compostable or biodegradable plastics, including coffee pods
• Bulky rigid plastics such as garden furniture, bins and toys
• PVC packaging and polystyrene packaging

Paper and card

• Absorbent hygiene products such as nappies and period products
• Wet wipes, tissues, and toilet paper
• Fibre-based composite food and drink cartons (these are now collected in the plastic stream)

Garden waste

• Plastic packaging labelled as compostable or biodegradable
• Garden waste such as plant pots, sand, stones, gravel and large branches

While these items are not required to be collected in garden waste bins under the Simpler Recycling guidance, garden waste collection services themselves are not being removed.

Many councils will continue to offer garden waste collections, although households may need to pay for the service depending on their local authority.

These changes come from the official guidance published by the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (Defra), which councils are required to follow when collecting household recycling.

Sort your recycling with these handy picks

What happens if you break Simpler Recycling rules?

If the wrong items are placed in recycling bins, councils may refuse collection and leave a notice asking residents to remove the incorrect waste before the next collection.

Households will usually receive a warning first rather than an immediate penalty. If someone repeatedly ignores the rules, however, or continues to contaminate recycling, councils can issue a Fixed Penalty Notice, typically between £60 and £80.

A government spokesperson has clarified that reports suggesting households could face automatic £400 fines for putting the wrong item in a recycling bin are incorrect.

What homeowners can do with items that are no longer recyclable

The Simpler Recycling guidance, supported by waste experts, recommends that homeowners:

• Take non-collectable items to Household Waste Recycling Centres (HWRCs) – suitable for lightbulbs, glass cookware, electrical items, metals, and bulky plastics.
• Pack fragile items safely – wrap bulbs, glass, or ceramics to prevent breakage.
• Follow local council instructions for hazardous waste – fluorescent tubes and CFLs contain hazardous materials and should be handled according to council guidance.
• Double check what can still go in your recycling bins – to avoid contaminating recyclable materials and sending waste to landfill.

Colin Hayes, a recycling expert for Panda Recycling, said: “With the new rules arriving this month, households have a clear opportunity to reset their recycling habits and make sure items are disposed of correctly.”

By understanding what is no longer collected and taking items to the correct recycling points, homeowners can reduce waste sent to landfill and ensure household and renovation waste is disposed of correctly.

From April 2026, the average household in England and Wales will see its water bill increase by £33 a year, or roughly £2.70 per month.

The rise, which is 5.4% and above the current inflation rate, is intended to fund a record £104 billion programme of improvements to water and sewage infrastructure across the country.

While this increase may be unwelcome, more households than ever are set to qualify for help with water bills, potentially receiving discounts and reducing the financial impact for those who need it most.

Why water bills are rising again

Water bills are set to rise as water and wastewater companies are currently investing at record levels to secure reliable water supplies, reduce sewage pollution, and modernise ageing infrastructure.

Over 2026 and 2027 alone, companies plan to invest £20 billion in projects including new reservoirs, upgraded treatment works, and replacement of old water mains.

Regulators say that all spending is necessary, cost-effective, and delivers value for money, with a promise that bills will be refunded if improvements are not completed.

Discounts and support for households

To help households cope with rising costs, around 2.5 million homes will receive discounts through social tariffs, the WaterSure scheme, and other affordability measures.

That is an increase of 300,000 households compared with previous years, with an expected average discount of around 40%.

Support varies depending on local circumstances, including payment breaks, reduced bills, and in some cases, debt forgiveness, making it important for customers to contact their water company to see if they qualify.

Regional variation and what you can do to save

Bills will vary significantly depending on where you live, with some regions seeing increases as high as £55 a year, while others rise by just a few pounds.

For example, Southern Water customers may pay £55 more annually, while Thames Water customers face an average rise of just £3.

Households can check eligibility for discounts through their water provider’s social tariffs, the WaterSure scheme, or other affordability programmes.

Eligibility typically depends on income, benefits received, or medical needs, and most companies offer online calculators or customer service guidance to estimate potential savings.

This could benefit millions of homeowners and allow them to actually save rather than spend more on their water bills.

Households across the UK could benefit from up to £125 million in combined water and energy savings over the next decade as part of a major government overhaul of the water system.

The reforms introduce a new single regulator, stricter inspections and proactive maintenance of pipes and treatment works to prevent outages.

The introduction of smart water meters and appliance efficiency measures aim to provide practical help with water bills, allowing households to track usage and cut costs.

Major reforms to the UK water system

The Water White Paper sets out wide-ranging reforms aimed at improving accountability, infrastructure reliability, and environmental protection.

Key measures include:

• A new single regulator with powers to inspect water companies directly, including no notice inspections.
• A Chief Engineer inside the regulator to provide technical oversight of pipelines, pumps and treatment works.
• MOT-style infrastructure checks requiring proactive maintenance to identify and fix problems before they disrupt households.
• Dedicated supervisory teams for each water company, replacing a one-size-fits-all approach and enabling tailored monitoring.
• Smart water meters and mandatory efficiency labels on appliances such as dishwashers and washing machines to help households monitor water use.
• Environmental measures, including improved storm overflow management, sustainable drainage and phosphorus removal from wastewater.

These reforms aim to prevent service failures and disruption that have affected communities in recent years while ensuring a more resilient water system.

How the reforms could help save household bills

The reforms are expected to deliver £125 million in combined water and energy savings over the next decade through smart water metering and efficiency measures.

Proactive maintenance and infrastructure inspections are designed to reduce emergency repairs and service disruptions, which can drive up costs.

Despite these long-term savings, reports from Ofwat show that water bills have been rising due to record investment, maintenance and climate pressures, sometimes by more than 20% in affected areas.

These reforms are intended to stabilise costs in the long term while improving reliability for households.

'Once-in-a-generation reforms'

Environment Secretary Emma Reynolds described the measures as “once-in-a-generation reforms for our water system – tough oversight, real accountability, and no more excuses.”

She added that “water companies will have nowhere to hide from poor performance, customers will get the service they deserve, and investors will see a system built for the future.”

The reforms build on previous government action, including record investment in infrastructure and measures such as banning unfair bonuses for water company executives.

While the programme aims to improve reliability, enforce stricter accountability and prevent disruptions, households may still experience high water bills as companies upgrade ageing infrastructure and comply with the new regulatory standards.

The idea of a "bath time tax" might sound like something out of a dystopian novel, but it's become a hot topic in the UK's ongoing water debate.

While it's not a direct tax on your bubbles, this controversial idea points to new plans aimed at encouraging us to save water and pay differently.

We dive into the reality of rising water bills and discover if a bigger splash really means a bigger bill.

'Progressive' water tariffs and smart meters

At the heart of the debate are proposals from water companies to implement "progressive" pricing models.

This means that the more water a household uses, the higher the rate per litre they would pay. This shift is being advocated as a way to encourage water conservation, especially in the face of growing concerns over water scarcity, exacerbated by recent dry springs and droughts.

Water Minister Emma Hardy has publicly stated support for "innovative approaches being taken to trial new charges aiming to make bills fairer and more affordable."

To enable such a system, a widespread rollout of smart water meters would be necessary. These meters would allow for real-time monitoring of water consumption, providing the data needed to apply tiered tariffs.

Currently, only about 12% of English homes have smart water meters, compared to 60% with standard meters.

Who could be affected and why?

The Conservative party, particularly Shadow Secretary Levelling Up Secretary Kevin Hollirake, criticised these proposals, branding them a "tax on bath time" and "class war in action."

They argue that certain families and households will be disproportionately affected, such as:

• Families with children: Daily activities like bathing small children, washing clothes and general household cleaning naturally lead to higher water consumption.
• Homes with gardens or swimming pools: Watering gardens, filling paddling pools, or maintaining swimming pools would incur higher costs under a progressive tariff.
• Larger households: More occupants generally mean more water usage, leading to higher bills.

The Conservative Party claim this is a "war on family homes" and accused Labour of backing a "socialist-inspired" policy that could penalise parents for routine activities.

However, a Labour spokesperson called these claims "absolute rubbish".

The water companies' perspective

Water companies, largely through their representative body Water UK, on the other hand, argue that progressive tariffs would:

• Encourage water efficiency: By making higher usage more expensive, it would incentivise households to reduce their consumption, contributing to national water conservation efforts.
• Potentially lower bills for most: Companies like Thames Water claim it could reduce water bills by 9% for three-quarters of customers.
• Fund essential infrastructure: The wider context of rising water bills in the UK is a massive £96 billion investment plan over the next five years to upgrade infrastructure, reduce pollution, and secure long-term drinking water supplies.

Current water bill increases

Regardless of whether progressive tariffs are widely adopted, water bills are already set to increase significantly.

The national average water bill is forecast to rise to £603 a year from April 1st, 2025, an increase of over £10 a month for a typical household. This rise is primarily driven by the aforementioned infrastructure investment and efforts to address issues like sewage spills.

Ofwat, the independent regulator, has approved substantial investment and is working to ensure that bills are fair while holding companies accountable for delivering improvements.

They have also stated that they will use their powers to prevent customers' money from being used for undeserved executive bonuses.

Labour ministers have indicated openness to trialling these innovative tariff systems, with Ofwat overseeing any trials to ensure fair charges.

While a direct "bath time tax" in name might not materialise, the proposed shifts in water charging mechanisms, coupled with the ongoing rise in overall water bills, mean that how and how much we pay for water in the UK is certainly set to change, with potential impacts on every household's finances.

Are you wondering why your water bill has gone up or why it’s higher than your neighbour’s? You’re not alone.

Water and sewerage charges are reviewed regularly, and in 2025, customers in England, Wales and Scotland are seeing further changes to their bills.

Here’s what’s going on, what you can do to lower your bill and how to get help with your water bills if you’re struggling.

Why are my water bills higher than normal?

Water bills are rising across England, Wales and Scotland in April – in some cases by up to 27% – to fund urgent investment in infrastructure, clean energy transitions, and pollution reduction.

We learnt last year that annual water bills were set to rise between 2025 and 2030 as Ofwat approved an average bill increases of £31 per year – £8 less per year than what water companies originally proposed.

Water UK says companies are now spending £104 billion over five years, including £20 billion in the next 12 months alone.

“Water companies are investing a record £104 billion over the next five years to support economic growth, build more homes, secure our water supplies and end sewage entering our rivers and seas,” said a Water UK spokesperson.

Much of this money will go towards building new reservoirs, tackling storm overflows, and upgrading wastewater treatment. It’s a major push to modernise the UK’s water system – but it does mean customers will foot part of the bill.

Even publicly owned Scottish Water, where water charges are linked to council tax bands, confirmed increases from April 2025. A spokesperson noted: “We’re publicly owned, but investment is still essential. Even with unmetered charges, bills are going up to support water quality, resilience and the environment.”

In England, water bills are reviewed and approved by the regulator Ofwat, based on each company’s five-year plan. As Anglian Water explains: “We’re on the frontline of climate change and one of the most water-scarce regions. Investment is vital if we’re to continue delivering clean water and protecting the environment.”

How can I reduce my water bill?

Whether your home is metered or not, there are several ways to bring your water bill down:

• Use less water – Installing water-saving devices, fixing leaks, and cutting back on usage can all help. Free water-saving packs and home visits are available through initiatives like Welsh Water’s Cartref programme and Water UK’s Water’s Worth Saving campaign.
• Sign up for help – Millions of households across the UK now qualify for social tariffs, WaterSure schemes, or other forms of support. In many cases, this can reduce your bill by up to 50%.

“More than three million households are set to receive reduced bills and other forms of financial support,” confirmed Water UK. “We understand increasing bills is never welcome and we know that for many, this increase will be difficult.”

If you have mobility, sight or hearing issues, or children under 12 months, you may also be eligible for Priority Services.

Water saving devices

Does going on a water meter reduce costs?

Switching to a water meter can save money for some households – particularly if you have more bedrooms than people. With a meter, you only pay for what you use.

“Water meters can help households save money on their bill because users only pay for the water they use,” says the Consumer Council for Water.

You can try a water meter calculator like the one from Welsh Water to estimate whether a meter might help you save.

In Scotland, however, most homes are unmetered, and Scottish Water notes that due to higher standing charges, “metering would likely cost most households more.”

What if I can’t afford my water bill?

If you’re struggling to pay your water bill, don’t wait to get help.

“We know it is a difficult time for many people,” said Ofwat. “Every company provides support for customers struggling to pay their bill, including reduced charges and debt support schemes.”

Anglian Water has a support package worth over £80 million, including personalised discounts, while Welsh Water say it supports over 150,000 customers via social tariffs and hardship schemes like HelpU, WaterSure Wales, and Cymuned.

“We’ll continue to work with those who need help – offering discounts of up to 50% depending on people’s situation,” said an Anglian Water spokesperson.

If you receive means-tested benefits, have a medical condition, or use more water due to household needs, it’s worth checking whether you qualify for discounted rates.

Where to get help with your water bills

There are numerous sources to help you with rising water bills, including:

• Contact your water company directly – ask about social tariffs, hardship funds, or support plans. Use the Ofwat site to find out your water companies contact details
• Use the Consumer Council for Water's advice hub
• Check what help is available in Wales using the Welsh Water’s Help Hub
• If you're based in Scotland you can ask your local authority about WCRS or Single Person Discount

Water bills are going up – but so is the level of support available.

Whether you’re looking to save water, lower your monthly cost, or find help with payments, there are resources out there.

Keeping up to date on the latest price increases is crucial to managing your finances and finding the best support for your water bills could be key in saving you money.

Despite the known health risks, asbestos remains present in over 1.5 million buildings across the UK, including workplaces, schools, hospitals, and residential properties.

This pervasive threat exposes thousands of people every year to asbestos fibres, which can lead to deadly diseases like mesothelioma and lung cancer.

To address this issue, UKNAR (UK National Asbestos Register), a non-profit organisation, is advocating for a centralised national asbestos register, making it accessible for workers, contractors, and homeowners who may otherwise be unaware of potential asbestos risks.

Asbestos remains present in thousands of homes

Asbestos is still present in many buildings across the UK, including thousands of homes built before 2000, according to the British Safety Council.

It was widely used in construction for its heat resistance and durability, and is often found in older residential properties in several key areas:

• Roofing and gutters: Asbestos cement sheets were commonly used for asbestos roof tiles and guttering in homes built before the 1980s.
• Flooring: Asbestos-containing vinyl tiles were common in kitchens, bathrooms, and hallways.
• Pipe insulation: Homes built before the 1980s may have asbestos insulation around heating pipes and ducts.
• Ceilings: Textured ceilings, often called "popcorn" ceilings, may contain asbestos.

While the material is not dangerous if left undisturbed, it poses serious health risks when disturbed, such as during home renovations.

Despite the risks, many older homes still contain asbestos, so it's crucial for homeowners to be aware and manage it safely.

Calls for a national asbestos register

Despite the presence of asbestos in homes, homeowners face difficulty accessing clear, up-to-date asbestos information, as there is no centralised database for asbestos in homes.

It is claimed this increases the risk of accidental exposure, particularly during routine maintenance or renovations.

To address this, UKNAR is advocating for a national asbestos register. They claim this would "simplify access to asbestos data", enabling homeowners, contractors, and tenants to quickly check the presence of asbestos in their property via digital tools, such as QR codes linked to the latest asbestos registers.

By creating a national database, UKNAR aims to prevent unnecessary exposures and associated health risks, enhancing safety for all who live in or work on older properties.

Asbestos leading cause of workplace deaths

A recent study by High Speed Training, a leading training provider for asbestos awareness, sheds light on concerning attitudes toward asbestos among tradespeople, despite it being the leading cause of work-related deaths in the UK.

Dr Richard Anderson, Head of Learning and Development at High Speed Training, explains: “Asbestos has been banned in the UK since 1999, but it is still present in many buildings.”

The study reveals that 35% of tradespeople believe asbestos isn't dangerous, and 46% feel their training was insufficient. This is despite asbestos being the leading cause of death in the workplace with an estimated 5,000 deaths annually from asbestos-related diseases in the UK.

In some cases it was revealed tradespeople are instructed by employers to handle asbestos removal themselves, putting their health and others at risk. Over a quarter (26%) of those who knowingly came into contact with asbestos admitted failing to follow proper removal procedures. The top reasons for this include, "too expensive" (55%), "boss told me to do it myself" (26%), and "lack of correct safety equipment" (17%).

Dr Anderson emphasises the dangers of improper asbestos handling: “Asbestos removal regulations are in place to make sure that the risk of exposure to harmful fibres is limited and it’s imperative that guidelines are followed, by a trained professional. It is never something that you should attempt to do yourself, whether you are a tradesperson or member of the general public.”

The study also highlights that nearly half (49%) of tradespeople view asbestos as a problem of the past. However, 74% of workers agree that more awareness is needed about the dangers of asbestos for tradespeople's families, and 69% believe homeowners should also be better informed of the dangers.

Choosing the best way to heat your home is not easy, but if you are comparing gas boiler vs electric boiler, we're here to help.

There are many types of boiler available to homeowners and whether you are considering a change due to rising energy prices or your existing model is on the verge of packing up, electric and gas versions are probably both on your radar.

"With the winter months approaching, the UK will now be gearing up their homes for the colder temperatures. The end of summer is a great time to consider investing in a new boiler, just before it will be needed for the winter," says James Longley, MD at Utility Bidder. "Gas and electric boilers are a recommended option for homes, however you should do your research and consider your lifestyle before purchasing."

We asked a range of experts for their opinions on both gas and electric boilers and have been exploring the pros and cons of each. This should help you come to a firm decision on the best option for your home, lifestyle and future needs.

How does each type of boiler work?

When choosing a new boiler it is important to understand a little bit about how they work. Let's begin with gas boilers.

Gas boilers

Despite being found in over 80% of homes in the UK, according to Viessmann, many people are still a little unsure of how they work. Like many other boilers, gas versions basically work by heating up water that is then passed into your home's heating system.

If you were to look inside a gas boiler you'd find a gas burner, which makes the heat, a heat exchanger, that transfers heat from a solid object into a fluid (such as water), the controls and a "diaphragm tank". These tanks make it possible for water to expand before absorbing any pressure surges that may occur during operation. In addition, gas boilers come with exhaust pipes that remove any carbon monoxide produced – hence why they require a flue.

Electric boilers

Electric boilers are common in households with no gas connection, just like oil boilers. Unlike oil and gas boilers, however, they do not require a solid fuel. Instead, they transfer energy to the heating elements within it to heat water for your home.

Energy efficiency

We'll start with the energy efficiency of both of these types of boiler – central heating efficiency being of particular concern for many homeowners right now.

"Electric boilers emit no exhaust fumes because they do not burn fossil fuels," explains Andy Kerr, founder at BOXT. "This means that none of the energy used to power the heating system is wasted. As a result, electric boilers often have the highest rating out of all the boilers available, especially when powered by renewable energy sources, like solar panels."

"It is now a requirement for all gas boilers to be A-rated for energy efficiency, meaning they must be at least 90% efficient," continues Andy. "Gas boilers can also cope with larger heating and hot water demands, meaning that they tend to be more efficient than electric boilers in bigger homes.

"Although an electric boiler may be more efficient, a gas boiler would be advantageous for all homes that have a gas supply as they are able to generate heat more effectively and cost less to run."

Running costs

One of the main considerations most homeowners will take into account when choosing a new boiler is cost – both in terms of initial purchase price as well as running costs. So how much is a new boiler?

"The price of electric boilers can range from £900 to around £4,000, whereas gas boilers can range from around £500 to over £6,000, making them more expensive," advises James Longley. "However, this is often due to the installation process taking longer compared to an electric boiler.

"Under the current government energy price cap, the cost of electricity in the UK is £28.62p per kWh, whereas gas is £7.42p per kWh," continues James. "Amounts can vary depending on the size of your home but, as an example, you’ll be spending £1.78 per hour for 24kWh of gas, compared to £3.43 per hour for 12kW of electricity."

"In general, the cost of operating an electric boiler would be two to three times more than that of a gas boiler," adds Anthony Smith, director at Midland Air Conditioning.

However, there are advantages electric boilers have over gas when it comes to costs.

"With fewer moving parts, you're less likely to spend a lot maintaining an electric boiler," points out Andy Kerr. "So, while they can be more expensive to run, you could save money in the long term due to reduced maintenance costs."

Ease of installation

Boiler installation is something that needs careful consideration, particularly if you are renovating and are keen to minimise disruption to your day-to-day life. It seems that electric boilers win first place here perhaps explaining, in part, why they are often considered one of the best gas boiler alternatives.

"Generally speaking, installing an electric boiler is slightly more straightforward than a gas boiler, and the process should only take 1-3 days in most cases," explains Andy Kerr. "This is because electric boilers do not need to be connected to the main gas supply or need a condensate pipe or flue to be fitted. However, they will still need all the associated pipework for your heating and hot water requirements."

"Installation costs for both will depend on different factors, such as property size, location and the rates of the engineer," picks up James Longley. "Both heating systems tend to take 1-3 days to install, however, a gas boiler may take longer due to more complex installations."

"The work with a has boiler must also be carried out by a Gas Safe registered engineer who can complete the job safely and to a high standard," points out Andy Kerr. "The same stands with an electrical boiler as this will need connecting and testing by an engineer with the relevant qualifications."

Boiler maintenance

Most people will be keen to install a heating system with minimal maintenance requirements, whether that means opting for a combi boiler or a system boiler. So are electric or gas boilers better on this front?

"Gas boilers require a higher level of maintenance and servicing as they are more susceptible to wear and tear," says Andy Kerr. "Boiler manufacturers recommend having a boiler service once every 12 months, ideally before the colder weather begins in autumn, so that you can make sure it’s in good working order come wintertime. In fact, you may well find that your boiler’s warranty isn’t valid if you fail to get it serviced annually, which could end up costing you significantly more in repairs should anything go wrong."

Safety

It is natural to feel concerned about the safety aspects of any boiler and when comparing gas and electric boilers, it seems that electric once again has the edge.

"Because electric boilers don’t directly use fossil fuels, there’s no need to worry about any gas leaks; however, ignoring problems with these boilers can still lead to issues and inefficiencies, so it’s important you ensure your boiler is properly maintained and regularly serviced," explains Andy Kerr. "Gas boilers can be more efficient, especially in larger properties; however, they do present more of a risk when it comes to safety. If there is a gas leak in your boiler, there is a significant chance of carbon monoxide poisoning.

"With this in mind, an electric boiler might be considered safer. However, it’s good to know that building regulations require a carbon monoxide alarm to be installed in every room containing an appliance that burns fuel," concludes Andy.

Longevity

Just as with ground source heat pumps, a boiler is a significant investment so you will no doubt be keen to ensure that whichever type you end up installing is going to last you for many years to come.

"Depending on the boiler's quality, electric boilers will typically last between 15 and 25 years," states Andy Kerr. "Electric boilers typically last longer than gas due to not having as many parts that make up the appliance. As a result, fewer problems are likely to occur, from general wear and tear to specific issues with parts.

"By comparison, a natural gas heating system will likely last 10-15 years," continues Andy. "This is due to the increased complexity of gas appliances. Some types of gas boilers may have a slightly longer lifespan, but electric boilers will last longer than their counterparts."

FAQs

Are electric boilers suitable for larger homes?

Electric boilers tend to work best in smaller properties.

"Electric boilers are commonly found in smaller homes for a reason: because they manage the demand without the running costs becoming too high," explains Andy Kerr.

"If you live in a smaller house or in an apartment but you still want efficiency, electric boilers are the most economical choice," explains Anthony Smith. "Your running cost is likely to be higher, but electric boilers have the highest efficiency rating since they do not emit any exhaust fumes. In other words, you get what you pay for since there is no energy waste."

Still undecided? Remember, gas and electric boilers are not your only option. If you are living off-grid or are interested in greener ways of heating you home, take a look at biomass boilers in our beginner's guide.

The New Homes Ombudsman service, which provides a free resolution service for those who have issues with their newly purchased homes, has claimed all housebuilders need to register with the scheme in order to protect homeowners.

Despite a notable increase in developer membership, from 33 at the start of the year to 90 by March 2024, only around 50% of new homeowners benefit from the scheme, with the aim to expand this to 70% as more developers complete their registration.

If developers who are responsible for building houses fail to register, then homeowners could be left without anyone to turn to, "meaning many people will be left without the help they need,” warns the service.

What is the New Homes Ombudsman?

The New Homes Ombudsman is an independent body established to protect consumers buying newly built homes by ensuring developers meet specific quality standards.

The scheme, launched in 2022, provides a dispute resolution service, helping homeowners address issues like construction defects or poor workmanship, and holding developers accountable for resolving these problems.

The Ombudsman enforces the New Homes Quality Code, investigates complaints, and can impose penalties on developers who fail to comply with its decisions.

This service, which is free for homeowners, aims to improve the quality of new homes in the UK and give consumers a stronger voice.

How many developers are signed up to the scheme?

As of the end of March 2024, 90 developer groups are active members of the New Homes Ombudsman Scheme, an increase from 33 at the beginning of the year.

Additionally, 91 more groups are working to meet the scheme’s requirements and are expected to complete their registration within the current year.

Currently, the developers who are active members produce 55% of all new homes sold across England, Scotland, and Wales.

It is anticipated that once all the developers in the process finalise their registrations, this coverage is expected to increase to approximately 65-70%, according to the New Homes Ombudsman Service.

Most small- and medium-sized developers are not signed up

In the New Homes Ombudsman's Annual report for 2024, it was claimed that despite the growth in new subscribers it is "crucial" that all developers be forced by law to sign up for the scheme, particularly small- and medium-sized developers.

Of the 90 developers covered under the scheme so far the vast majority are larger developers.

Chair of the New Homes Ombudsman Service, Jodi Berg OBE, said: "It is now two years since the launch of our service in 2022 and I am pleased to report a year of steady growth. The numbers of referrals to the Ombudsman have continued to increase, as have the numbers of completed reviews.

"Currently this means that approximately 50% of new homeowners are protected by the scheme. While we’ve made significant strides in our first year, it is crucial that all homeowners receive equal protection against poor-quality new housing.

“As the Government implements its ambitious house building plans, ensuring all developers join the Ombudsman service is essential. Without this, too many people will be left without the help they need.”

In a move that will affect millions of households across England and Wales, water bills are poised for a significant increase over the next five years.

Ofwat, the Water Services Regulation Authority, has unveiled a sweeping £88 billion investment plan that aims to modernise water infrastructure, improve environmental stewardship and enhance customer service.

This will mean that, on average, water bills will rise by £94 by 2030. Some households may subsequently be forced to seek help with their water bills. We reveal how much your water bills are set to rise by.

Water bills set to rise by £19 a year on average

Water bills in England and Wales are set to increase significantly over the next five years, according to Ofwat's latest proposals.

On average, household water bills are expected to rise by £19 per year over the next five years, totalling £94 by 2030 (excluding inflation). This increase is substantially lower than what water companies initially proposed, which averaged £144 over five years.

That said, some water companies will making significantly higher increases. South Water, for instance, will be hiking up customer bills by £183 in this period.

The rise in bills varies between water companies:

• Thames Water customers could see an increase of £99 by 2030 (down from the company's proposed £191)
• Severn Trent customers may face a £93 increase (reduced from the initial £144 proposal)

The £35 billion allocated for these improvements represents more than triple the investment level of the 2020-2025 period.

It's worth noting that Ofwat has trimmed £16 billion from the water companies' original spending plans, aiming to prevent customers from paying for unnecessary or inefficient expenditures.

Why are water bills rising?

David Black, Chief Executive of Ofwat, explained the rationale behind the rise in water bills claiming the aim is "to make sustained improvement to customer service and the environment".

A significant portion of the investment – £35 billion – is earmarked for environmental improvements and infrastructure upgrades. This represents more than triple the investment level in the 2020-2025 period.

"Customers want to see radical change in the way water companies care for the environment," Black stated, highlighting the public demand for action on environmental issues.

One of the key targets is a dramatic reduction in sewage spills from storm overflows. "These proposals aim to deliver a 44% reduction in spills from storm overflows compared to levels in 2021," Black said.

Ofwat has made it clear that water companies will be held accountable for delivering on these improvements. "We will be closely scrutinising the delivery of their plans and will hold them to account to deliver real improvements to the environment and for customers and on their investment programmes," Black asserted.

Water firms say price rises not enough

Water companies argue this increase is not enough to address issues like sewage leaks and prepare for future water shortages.

Water UK, representing the industry, claims this is "the biggest ever cut in investment" and will slow down environmental improvements. They have warned that the UK may fail to meet its target of building 1.5 million homes over the next five years unless they are allowed to increase customer bills.

The water industry is asking for a £26 yearly rise in bills, higher than the £19 proposed by regulator Ofwat. Thames Water were accused of "blackmailing" their customers after announcing plans to raise water bills by 40%.

However, Water UK’s chief executive, David Henderson, argued that infrastructure improvements necessary for housebuilding and addressing sewage issues will not be possible without this increase.

Henderson said: “We are not going to be able to build the £1.5 million homes we desperately need.”

Critics have also noted that water companies have paid out £2.5 billion in dividends despite performance issues but Henderson dismissed this calling the amount "a drop in the ocean".

Liquid fuel boilers, more specifically oil condensing boilers, have provided the cheapest form of home heating, over the last four years, according to independent research.

Researchers into domestic heating costs, Sutherland Tables, assessed the average costs for the main forms of heating for homes and found liquid fuel boilers came out lowest for costs since 2020.

We look at the results of the research, how oil boilers compared to other types of boilers and heating methods, but also consider the negatives of using liquid fuel boilers.

Figures 'dispel the myth that liquid fuel heating is an expensive option'

The independent findings, published by the Sutherland Tables, compare the annual costs of space and water heating technologies for an average three-bedroom semi-detached home.

The latest data for Great Britain shows that from June 2020 to June 2024, the average yearly running cost for a condensing liquid fuel boiler was £1,231. In comparison, other off-mains solutions such as Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG) boilers were 31% more expensive at £1,620, while electric storage heaters cost more than twice as much at £2,866.

Oil condensing boilers also proved to be slightly cheaper heating costs than gas condensing boilers, which averaged £1,283, and provided less expensive running costs than renewable options like wood pellets or heat pumps.

Malcolm Farrow, head of public affairs at OFTEC (Oil Firing Technical Association), a UK not for profit trade organisation, commented: “These new figures will be welcome news for the 1.7 million UK homes that rely on liquid fuel for their heating, particularly at a time when we have all experienced a squeeze on household spending.

"Like all energy prices, liquid fuel was not immune to price fluctuations due to the Covid pandemic and the war in Ukraine. However, the four-year average dispels the myth that liquid fuel heating is an expensive option. Prices are also expected to stay competitive with other fuels over the coming months.”

(While the data forms a good basis for fuel price comparison, it must be noted that heating costs are impacted by many factors. The heating demands of a well-insulated home, for instance, may differ quite significantly to those an old home without much in the way of insulation.)

Why have oil boilers been cheaper to run since 2020?

Liquid fuel boilers using kerosene will produce a significant amount of heat per unit of fuel and so fuel consumption is relatively low when compared to other forms of energy supply.

Fuel supplies can also be kept in large tanks on the property meaning fuel can be bought in bulk often creating extra savings.

In addition, the spiralling cost of gas and electricity over the period has no doubt impacted findings. Electricity costs saw record highs of £580.55 per Mwh in September 2022 and gas costs rose to £800 per therm in March 2022, according to international energy price reviewers Trading Economics.

What are the negatives to liquid fuel boilers and can these be solved?

Despite providing financial benefits over recent years, liquid fuel boilers reliant on kerosene are environmentally damaging.

They produce high levels of carbon dioxide and other greenhouse gases compared to cleaner energy sources such as heat pumps.

Liquid fuel boilers also emit pollutants such as nitrogen oxides (NOx) and sulfur dioxide – although oil boilers sold after autumn 2018 are required to be 'low NOx' – bringing risks to air quality. Plus, issues with old oil tanks may result in fuel leaks which can lead to soil and water contamination.

These concerns have led to the development of other liquid fuel supplies that can remove these drawbacks whilst keeping prices low.

Hydrotreated Vegetable Oil (HVO), a renewable liquid fuel, for instance, has been tested in nearly 150 properties over the past two years, achieving an 88% reduction in emissions with minor boiler modifications.

Malcolm stated: “Whilst households on oil heating have enjoyed the lowest heating costs over the past four years, we must recognise the need to transition these properties onto a lower carbon alternative to support the UK’s net zero commitments.

“Heat pumps are an excellent solution for some properties but, for others, renewable liquid fuels may offer a more pragmatic and realistic choice.

"And, if the government corrects the current fuel duty disparity and implements a fuel obligation, options such as HVO can provide a long term, affordable solution for decarbonising buildings in the off-grid sector that currently rely on traditional oil heating.”

Residents of Teynham, Kent, are dealing with frequent raw sewage leaks, claiming their rapidly growing village feels like a "Third World Country".

The 3,000-strong community near Sittingbourne experiences regular sewage overflows onto the streets with residents reporting they are unable to flush their toilets or use their showers.

The situation could become even more dire as 298 more homes have been granted planning permission, which locals claim will only exacerbate the levels of sewage.

Residents describe situation as 'disgusting'

Wayne Kennett, a resident of Frognal Lane, highlighted the severity of the issue, noting that the last major leak in May left the area "stinking to high hell" for three days. 

He expressed frustration over the outdated infrastructure, stating: "In this day and age, to have raw sewage coming out of manhole covers in the street is disgusting. It just should not happen." 

Wayne also fears the situation will deteriorate further with the construction of 298 new homes recently approved by local authorities.

The approval comes despite Southern Water's admission that their current system can only handle 50 new homes without requiring reinforcement. 

This has led to significant concerns among the villagers. Wayne, who now distils his tap water out of health fears, stated: "The system is old and outdated and cannot cope with what is already here. It can't take another 298 houses and it's going to be a disaster."

Robert Requena, another long-term resident, echoed these sentiments, describing the leaks as a "disgrace" and a serious health hazard. He criticised the approval of the new homes, arguing that the village's infrastructure, including its roads and drainage systems, is already under significant strain. 

"The junction between Frognal Lane and Frognal Gardens already floods after heavy rain, and adding more homes will only make things worse," he said.

Councillors say 'this is 21st-century Britain, for goodness sake'

Local council members, including Cllr Paul Townson and Cllr Julien Speed, have voiced strong opposition to the development. 

They argue that no new homes should be built until Southern Water provides detailed, budgeted, and timetabled plans to address the existing sewage problems. 

Cllr Speed added: "Residents are regularly unable to flush their toilets or use their showers due to a backup which is totally unacceptable."

"A Southern Water employee has told me privately there's no room for the plant to be upgraded as it's running at full capacity. 

"Tanker lorries are being brought in on a two-weekly basis to take excess sewage away. This is 21st-century Britain, for goodness sake. Frankly, I dispute that Southern Water can allow 50 new homes as there's already a major failure of mains drainage in Frognal Lane."

Southern Water promise infrastructure upgrades

Southern Water has acknowledged the issues, attributing them primarily to groundwater infiltration during wet weather and blockages from improperly disposed of waste such as wet wipes and fats. 

A spokesperson stated: "We are investigating the issues raised. Manholes overflowing are caused by both weather-related groundwater forcing its way into pipes and blockages due to improper waste disposal."

Chartway, the developer behind the Frognal Lane scheme, defends the project, emphasising the benefits it will bring, including much-needed family homes and a £4.2 million contribution to local infrastructure. 

This includes the expansion of Teynham Primary School and the offer to transfer land ownership for community facilities to the parish council.

Despite these assurances, residents remain deeply concerned about the village's future. They fear that without significant upgrades to the sewage and drainage systems, the addition of nearly 300 new homes will lead to further environmental and public health issues. 

As Southern Water and local authorities continue to navigate these challenges, the people of Teynham are left waiting for a sustainable solution to their ongoing sewage crisis.

Water companies have proposed increasing bills by up to 91% from 2025 in order to improve existing systems and reduce water pollution.

The proposals have been submitted to Ofwat (the Water Services Regulation Authority) who's survey has found only 16% of customers find the proposed rises to be affordable.

The decision has faced criticism as more and more consumers find themselves facing energy price rises and an ongoing cost-of-living crisis.

Which companies have requested increases?

A number of water companies have requested a water bill rate rise across the UK. The Consumer Council for Water has composed a list of the proposed increases for water companies for the years 2025 to 2030:

• Southern Water – 91% to £915
• Thames Water – 59% to £749
• Hafren Dyfrdwy – 56% to £676
• Severn Trent – 50% to £657
• Wessex Water – 50% to £822
• Yorkshire Water – 46% to £682
• Dŵr Cymru – 43% to £702
• United Utilities – 38% to £666
• South East Water – 35% £330
• Pennon – 33% to £644
• Portsmouth Water – 31% to £157
• SES – 30% to £315
• Anglian Water – 29% to £682
• Northumbrian Water and Essex & Suffolk Water – 26% to £530
• Affinity Water – 25% to £294
• South Staffs & Cambridge Water – 24% to £221

Why have water companies proposed these increases?

Water companies have justified these price increases by claiming they are needed for upgrades to existing systems, to better protect the environment whilst stressing the proposed increases are so far only estimates.

Katy Taylor, Southern Water's Chief Customer Officer, said: “While we await confirmation from Ofwat on our plan and the correspondent increase in bills, the numbers quoted have been increased by a third party to take into account estimated inflation levels over the next six years. 
 
“We share everyone’s concerns about rising payments in the face of a cost-of-living crisis. We have been able to keep bills low, with the average combined water and wastewater bill increasing by only £2 in the past 10 years in nominal terms. We agree with our customers that we must now charge more so we can bring our bills in line with inflation, rising costs and, more importantly, so we can invest more to meet the expectations of our customers, and protect and enhance our environment."

Southern Water also stated they already provide help with water bills to over 120,000 customers and predict this to rise to 200,000 by 2030.

'Water privatisation has been a catastrophic failure for this country'

The decision to raise water bills has prompted outrage with Ofwat's own survey finding that only 16% of customers though the proposed water bill increases were affordable.

Gary Carter, National Officer at the GMB union, expressed his outrage at the proposal, stating: "These people have no shame.

"Their water is so dirty it's literally putting people in hospital, yet the top brass see fit to hand themselves and other shareholders yet another payout. The way water companies behave - it's like they actively want the public to hate them. Water privatisation has been a catastrophic failure for this country."

Ofwat’s CEO David Black said: “Company business plans are an important first step in the price review process. Ofwat’s role is to forensically scrutinise their proposals, to ensure any increase in bills is justified, efficient and delivers significant improvements in river and bathing water quality. We will assess how companies are helping customers to afford any bill increase.

“As we work through the business plans we will continue to monitor companies’ performance, hold them to account for delivering improvements and push them to build meaningful plans to change.”

The Guardian has reported that Ofwat is set to refuse water companies requests to raise water bills but the decision has been delayed until July 11 due to the upcoming general election.

There are some elements of all self build projects, such as the installation of mains drainage and other services, which might not seem massively exciting but are integral to the overall success of the build.

The installation of drainage systems and services is usually thought of as a groundworks operation, undertaken when the structure of the house is built. However, some services are an integral part of the substructure construction and shouldn’t be left too late without risking unexpected problems. 

Here, Mark Stevenson, explains which services must be installed as part of the substructures and how to make sure the work is done properly so problems don’t occur later on.

Mains services

When we talk about mains services we are referring to the key services that enable a house to function. These are the foul water drainage and surface water drainage, mains water and electricity and could include the gas service, depending upon the renewable technologies you intend to adopt. Since October 2022, we also have to comply with approved document R which requires the installation of infrastructure for electronic communications — so if you didn’t know it before, broadband is now an essential service for all new builds.

When building the substructures, you must plan to install or make provision for any service that penetrates the substructure or influences the height at which the floor level is set. This therefore includes the drainage, water and electrical services. The gas and broadband services are installed outside and brought into the building by simply drilling a hole through the wall of the superstructure. They don’t affect the substructures and therefore won’t need to be installed at the substructure stage of construction.

Planning your mains drainage connection

Of all the suppliers and contractors you’ll have to deal with on a self build, those associated with the mains services are the most tricky and to varying degrees, are a law unto themselves. They’re referred to as statutory authorities or mains service providers and have rules on top of rules and therefore are inflexible and impose extended lead-in times before any work can start on site. So when dealing with the mains services providers, you need to have a cast-iron constitution and a definitive plan.

If you’re building a replacement dwelling, you’ll probably already have mains services to site. While the process of managing the disconnections (for demolition purposes) and new installation will be just as frustrating as on virgin plots, you’ll at least have the reassurance of knowing the services are available and that the connections will be at a reasonable cost. On the other hand, plots that have never had a home built on them before, will be at the mercy of sourcing the services off site, which means there’ll be a degree of doubt about what’s available and whether it will be suitable for your build. As such, planning and design for the installation of the mains services should therefore always be started as early as possible and at the very latest as soon as planning permission is granted

Connecting foul drainage

Foul drainage pipes (usually plastic but can be clay) carry away all the waste water from toilets, bathrooms, kitchens and so on, and are separated from the surface water drainage system.

The majority of self build projects will be connecting their foul drainage to an existing foul drainage system, which will have a defined level at the existing connection point (known as the invert level). For foul drainage to work, the pipes must be laid to minimum (1 in 110) and maximum (1 in 40) gradients, depending upon the pipe diameter and expected flow rates. If the pipes are too shallow, the waste will not flow, risking blockages. If the pipes are laid too steep, the solids could separate from the fluids and once again the pipes will block. This means that the foul drainage has to be designed backwards from the existing connection to ensure there’s appropriate fall throughout the system to operate properly. 

Before any drainage work is done on site, the drainage scheme should be fully designed and then approved by the appointed building control inspector. Design can be undertaken by anyone competent, but is usually undertaken by an engineer. There’s a plethora of rules and regulations that apply to foul drainage and too many to cover here. As a self builder, don’t worry too much about the technicalities as all the requirements will be detailed on the approved design — you just need to make sure your groundworks contractor has the information to work to and that
they follow it.

When it comes to connecting onto existing drainage systems, I’ve learnt through a lot of bitter experience that what exists is not always as expected and invert levels are often inaccurate. My policy is therefore that as a minimum, connection levels must be checked before any construction work begins and, ideally, the drainage installation should start from the existing connection, working uphill and before the substructure is complete to allow any necessary adjustments to be accommodated. 

Some would argue that this is a belt-and-braces approach and the only drainage that must be installed as part of the substructures is anything that sits below the beam and block or concrete floor slab. In truth, they are right — but on sites where the levels are tight and existing connections are not actually known, it’s a very risky approach because if levels go against you, then you can quickly find the drainage design doesn’t even work. As a potential result, expensive solutions will then be required to overcome problems that would have been easily avoided if the drainage was installed at the outset.

The most challenging part of any foul drainage installation will undoubtedly be any connection that may be needed in the highway to join to the existing foul drainage system. If your build needs this, expect to employ specialist contractors, approved by the local authority and licensed to work in an adopted highway. The work will need to be undertaken in compliance with the highway departments rules, and the contractors must be qualified to Roads and Street Works Act 1991 (RASWA). Because of the complications of working in the highway along with the traffic management and making good where needed, expect to pay at least £15,000 to £20,000 for a basic drainage connection.

While the technicalities of foul drainage installation will be covered by the foul drainage design, there are basic checks that all self builders should look for on their build. These are: 

• Pipes are laid straight, to the required gradient and fully supported on a full bed of pea gravel. The pipe should also be surrounded by pea gravel to prevent any damage when backfilling.
• Where pipes are installed under suspended concrete floors, ensure the ground they’re laid on will not settle.
• Bricks and hard material should not be used as supports to achieve the correct gradients. If these are left in place, they can create hard spots that will distort the pipe run.
• Inspection chambers should be of the correct type and specification for the location in which they are installed. For example, small PPIC (polypropylene inspection chamber) up to 300mm diameter are generally only allowed to go to a depth of 600mm (0.6m) due to the narrow width of the chamber. Inspection chambers in drives will also need to be of a construction that will not be damaged by vehicles.
• Each and every drainage run must have an access point for rodding and maintenance purposes. This is usually provided by the inspection chambers.
• The position of outlets into the building should be in the right place (check they’re in the correct room) and should not conflict with the walls that will be built above them.
• Pipes entering the building and popping up through the floor that will connect onto the soil stack should be covered with a bag to prevent debris entering and blocking the pipe. 
• The drainage system should be tested before and after backfilling to ensure there’s no leaks that need to be rectified. Backfilling should be compacted in layers without risk of damaging the drainage pipe.
• Drainage pipes that are close to the surface of the ground and therefore at risk of damage, should be surrounded in concrete to provide protection.

Connecting services for water

The mains water service pipe is a blue MDPE (medium density polyethylene) pipe, usually 25 to 32mm diameter (depending on water demand and distance) and laid from the boundary to the location of where the stopcock will be in the house — usually under the kitchen sink. The exact location of the service is agreed with the local water company when asking for the connection quotation. 

To prevent the water pipe from freezing, the pipe should be installed 750mm below the finished ground and insulated where it raises into the house. This is often overlooked by self builders who then find the top of the foundation is higher than the depth the water service must be installed. While this might seem like a problem that can be solved by insulating the pipe, be warned, the byelaw is 750mm deep and water inspectors will expect this to be achieved before the water supply is turned on. To overcome this, when building foundations install a duct through the foundations at the required depth through which the insulated water service can be threaded.

Connecting electricity services

Back in the day, bringing electricity to site meant services being provided overground via poles and entered buildings at a high level. These days, the service is supplied underground as is the entry into the building. 

It’s important to note that the service duct is fixed to the face of the brickwork but must be at least 450mm below ground. There isn’t much coordination to do with the substructures when installing the electricity service, however, to save a few hours chopping the concrete foundation later, it’s again worth installing a duct at the right level when pouring the foundations to make sure the electricity cable meets the service providers requirements. 

While we have covered the main services that must be installed as part of the substructures, there are plenty of other requirements for services to enter the building. For example, pipes to air source heat pumps, rainwater harvesting and supplies to garages and garden rooms. Ideally, these don’t want to be run down the face of the brickwork or cladding, and therefore it’s a good idea to incorporate additional ducts into the substructures to get these services in and out of the building in an acceptable manner.

Britain's energy regulator may increase its price cap on energy bills to reduce the risk of suppliers going bust as customer energy debt spirals.

Ofgem’s proposal drew condemnation from consumer campaigners as UK households struggle to afford energy price rises.

Energy debt has reached a record £2.6 billion pounds due to a combination of higher wholesale energy prices and cost of living pressures across the board.

The energy price cap

The energy price cap was introduced by the government in 2019 to limit how much firms can charge consumers for their energy to ensure households on default tariffs pay fair gas and electricity prices.

The scheme was replaced last year by the introduction of the Energy Price Guarantee, which capped bills at £2,500, as energy bills dropped it became redundant and the price cap will now be used to cap energy bills once again.

The current energy price cap was set by Ofgem on 1 October 2023 and is £1,923. This reflects the fall in wholesale energy prices.

Price cap predicted to rise to £1,996

An analysis by the regulator showed consumer energy bills could increase by up to £17 per year, or around £1.50 per month, on average.

However, Consultancy firm Cornwall Insight predicts bills could increase to £1,996, which would largely arise from increases in wholesale energy prices.

Dr Craig Lowrey, principal consultant at the group, said: "While the rise is small, it shows we cannot just assume prices will continue their fall and eventually reach pre-pandemic levels.

"Policies need to be put in place to deal with the possible situation that high energy prices have become the new normal."

Why is the cap predicted to rise?

Some energy firms have gone out of business or left the market due to unrecoverable debt, so Ofgem held a consultation to adjust the price cap.

The analysis weighed the risk of customers facing even higher costs against suppliers going out of business, as seen during the 2021 energy crisis, when around 30 suppliers went out of business, Ofgem said.

"We know that households across the country are struggling with wider cost of living challenges, including energy, so any decision to add costs to the price cap is not one we take lightly," said Tim Jarvis, Ofgem's director general for markets.

Tensions around rising energy prices is only set to heighten if the energy price cap rises as expected after previous price cap announcements on October 1 prompted protests outside Ofgem's headquarters with protestors promising to boycott paying their energy bills to force Ofgem to lower the price cap.

This is after households struggling to pay the bills claimed available government energy grants and other energy saving tips failed to sufficiently reduce their bills.

One protestor, Tracy Baldwin, 52, a carer from Yorkshire, stated: “The price hikes are astronomical. There’s going to be deaths from the vulnerable, the disabled, the elderly. Ofgem are not doing anything to tackle the problem. When people start to die it’s going to be nothing short of corporate manslaughter.”

'The idea that energy bills should go up due to bad debt is dangerous'

Simon Francis, the group coordinator of the End Fuel Poverty Coalition, said the idea that energy bills should go up due to bad debt is “dangerous", adding energy suppliers made more than £2 billion in profits in the first half of 2023.

He said: "Rather than pass on more increases to energy bills, the government needs to work with energy firms to introduce a ‘help to repay’ scheme to help get Britain's households back onto an even keel.”

A spokesperson for the Department for Energy and Net Zero said energy prices easing from October would help lessen "the burden for hardworking families".

"Last winter the government provided unprecedented support to families, spending around £40 billion to cover around half a typical household's energy bill, and we continue to provide support to families with the Energy Price Guarantee remaining in place through to April 2024 - as well as support offered to the most vulnerable through the Warm Homes Discount."

A petition has been launched to force telecommunications companies to apply for planning permission for telegraph poles.

Currently, operators can erect telegraph poles without having to apply to councils for planning permission.

But there have been a series of protests and outcry across the country as residents feel their concerns over what many have dubbed ‘eyesores’ are being ignored.

What are the planning rules for telegraph poles?

A 2013 amendment to the Electronic Communications Code 2003 allows companies to install overhead cables, but not in conservation areas.

The work is considered permitted development if “the work is by or on behalf of an electronic communications code operator for the purpose of the operator’s electronic communications network in, on, over or under land controlled by that operator or in accordance with the electronic communications code, consisting of the installation, alteration or replacement of any electronic communications apparatus.”

Telecommunications companies are required to give councils 28 days’ notice of their intention to install a pole but there are no real grounds of objection. They are also required to advertise their intention within the vicinity of the site.

Therefore, the wooden and steel poles do not require any form of permission or consent from the Local Planning Authority as permission for their installation has already been granted in advance by the government.

Residents react after growing frustration over 'ugly wooden poles'

Some residents have resorted to direct action over the wooden poles. In Hedon, East Yorkshire, a group of protestors parked their cars on a road where work was set to begin to prevent a lorry and trucks from broadband provider MS3 being able to park up themselves.

Resident Ray Duffill told the Yorkshire Post: “We’ve promised that MS3 will find it difficult to install poles wherever they go. I’ve lived in Hedon for 22 years and in that time there’s been some campaigns against big companies.

“But I think this has brought people out and into activity more than any of the others, it’s really wound people up. People feel powerless because the law’s on MS3’s side.

“We don’t really have any recourse to complain to stop this from happening. So we’re just trying to delay the works and make it as expensive for them as possible.”

Further protests took place in Stourport, Worcestershire where residents are fighting plans to install “appalling” 11-metre-high poles on their estate.

The Kidderminster Shuttle reported how the group believes the poles are unattractive and less effective than underground cables but were told the alternative is too expensive.

How can you sign the petition?

The petition states: “We want the Government to remove permitted development rights for telegraph poles, so telecommunications operators have to apply for permission to the Local Planning Authority (LPA) on any proposed installation and the LPA has to consult with affected residents before issuing permissions.”

It adds: “There is no requirement to consider alternatives (like underground cabling) or to inform residents of the installation, so no opportunity for them to engage. The first knowledge residents have of a pole installation is when it appears on their street.”

A previous petition with a similar aim was put forward but only garnered 7,864 signatures, short of the 10,000 votes needed to receive a response from Parliament.

One Yorkshire town has blockaded roads to stop telecom workers installing 500 broadband poles in their area due to them being 'eyesores'.

The UK government has committed to rolling out fibre broadband coverage across all of the UK by 2033 and in April 2022 the law changed so that operators can erect telegraph poles without having to apply to councils for planning permission.

The protestors in Hedon, East Yorkshire, however, vowed to boycott any internet provider who decides to use the 30ft high wooden poles and demand that the cables run underground instead.

How did the locals block the roads?

On October 9 a group of protestors parked their cars on a road where work was set to begin to prevent a lorry and trucks from broadband provider MS3 being able to park up themselves.

The workmen dug two holes but then had to abandon work. A protestor then parked her car over the hole. Police were called but no action was taken.

A campaign group calling itself 'Hedon Says No' has been set up to discuss the latest developments and tactics to prevent the work from taking place.

The homeowners have called the poles ‘eyesores’ and say there is nothing wrong with the existing internet provision. They also felt the poles were forced on them without consultation.

 ‘We don't want these eyesores on our streets’

One resident, Julie Dervey, told the BBC she was worried Hedon would look like “1940s Manhattan… with a spider's web of wires strung between awful telegraph poles".

She added: “About six weeks ago we woke up to find notices from the council telling us we were going to have this happening here.

“There is already infrastructure underground for broadband. We don't want these eyesores on our streets.”

Guy Miller, CEO of MS3 Networks, said the work would continue and planning permission is not required, adding that the work will reduce broadband costs for residents.

“We understand some residents are upset by this work,” he added. “It's not our intention to cause disturbance, and we want to work with residents in the most effective way possible. 

“We'd like to remind residents that it is against the 1984 Telecommunications Act to obstruct telecoms workers when they're carrying out work.

“That is for their safety and for that of the public and, while we encourage an open dialogue to help residents understand the work we're doing, that must be done safely.”

What are the planning laws for broadband poles?

A 2013 amendment to the Electronic Communications Code 2003 allows companies to install overhead cables without planning permission, but not in conservation areas.

The work is considered a permitted development if “the work is by or on behalf of an electronic communications code operator for the purpose of the operator’s electronic communications network in, on, over or under land controlled by that operator or in accordance with the electronic communications code, consisting of the installation, alteration or replacement of any electronic communications apparatus.”

‘We want to change the rules of permitted developments’

The protestors are also encouraging others to stop broadband companies from installing these poles on their streets as well.

Retired nurse Joyce Whittle, 62, told MailOnline: “We need to raise awareness to everybody in the country that this can take place on their streets.

“We want to change the rules of permitted developments, which the Government brought in last year to allow these telecom companies to come into an area and tell people they are going to put up poles and then, 28 days later, turn up, dig holes where they want to and erect them.

“There has been no consultation and we did not get a chance to object to the council.”

Most of us have heard of communal heating, where heat is generated at a central source, with either hot water or steam circulated to homes and other nearby buildings using insulated pipes. The largest cover entire cities such as Stockholm in Sweden or Flensburg in Germany, using a network of large pipes.

District heating is usually more energy efficient due to the simultaneous production of heat and electricity in combined heat and power generation plants.

But the concept has a lesser-known application – district cooling – where towns and cities are serviced by large and energy-efficient central air conditioning systems.

What is district cooling?

District cooling provides chilled water for indoor cooling purposes to industrial, commercial, and residential buildings through a closed loop pipe network.

Paris, Munich, Hong Kong, Singapore, Dubai and Toronto are constructing massive and efficient central cooling systems that consume less electricity.

They are used by hospitals, hotels, residential buildings, data processing centres, and other large buildings.

How does district cooling work?

The cold water used in a district cooling system can come from free sources such as sea water, or it can be produced from sources like waste heat with the use of steam turbine-driven or absorption chillers or electric chillers. 

Stefan Dworschak of Stadtwerke München, a city-owned communal company that supplies electricity to more than 95% of Munich's homes, told DW: "We try to use as much groundwater or city streams as possible as the main cooling supplier.”

Heat can also be used to power absorption chillers using a thermodynamic process that allows water to be chilled and distributed for HVAC needs. For example excess heat from a waste incineration plant is used to power an absorption chiller in the Austrian capital of Vienna.

Why district cooling may be cheaper than air con

District cooling can reach an efficiency rate five or even 10 times higher than a traditional cooling system because of economies of scale and the way it uses waste and renewable energy - a key reason why people in Europe, Asia and Canada are keen to switch.

Implementing air conditioning at a smaller scale is more expensive and less efficient because it requires a large consumption of electricity to force heat into hot air. District cooling can therefore help with air conditioning costs.

Engineering company Danfoss states: “District cooling can reduce cooling energy consumption by 50%. It can drastically reduce electricity use during peak demand periods, too.

“A network with electric chillers for cold storage helps reduce peak electricity demand for cooling in a city by shifting production to periods of the day or night when there is less run on the electrical network.”

Could district cooling be coming to the UK?

The global district cooling market size is projected to grow from £23 billion in 2023 to £36.27 billion by 2030, at a CAGR of 6.72% during the forecast period, according to Fortune Business Insights.

British homes are generally not designed to cope with heat – we’re normally trying to keep the heat in – but as temperatures creep upwards, many of us will be looking at investing in air conditioning.

District cooling could make sense in the UK as part of its push to reduce energy bills. Most towns in the UK are based around rivers and many lie on the coast, which can be used to purge heat from a district cooling network.

Energy firms have announced billions in profits after regulators raised the energy price cap, the maximum amount energy suppliers can charge consumers for each unit of energy.

Industry giants like Eon, Scottish Power, and EDF announced bumper profits after Ofgem increased the industry’s price cap after setting it lower in previous years, sparking energy price rises.

The profits come against a backdrop of British families struggling to pay for essentials, with Campaign group National Energy Action estimating that there are currently 6.6 million households in fuel poverty.

Record profits for energy companies

UK energy suppliers have announced record-breaking takings during 2023.

Eon, the second largest energy provider in the UK, said its first-half earnings from its UK business soared to €839m from €352m in the same period of 2022.

Similarly, ScottishPower went from an £87m loss in the first half of 2022 to a £576m profit in 2023, while EDF said pre-tax profit from its UK operation jumped to €2.3billion in the first half of 2023, up from €860m a year earlier.

This also follows news last week that British Gas made almost £969m million in profit last year while householders struggle to afford to keep their homes warm.

The UK’s largest energy company defended the record profits it made claiming it is a "one-off" recovery of costs from previous year's lack of profits.

Energy Price Cap changes blamed for rise

In November Ofgem increased the Energy Price Cap, which would have meant households faced average bills of £4,279 from the start of 2023, up from £3,549.

The price cap rose to £4,279 from January, meaning UK taxpayers must pay nearly £1,800 per house over the course of the year after limiting household bills to £2,500 under the Energy Price Guarantee.

The Energy Price Cap was originally introduced by the government in 2019 to limit how much firms can charge consumers for their energy, and ensure households on default tariffs pay fair gas and electricity prices.

However, energy price rises in Europe forced Ofgem to increase the Energy Price Cap to stop energy companies from going out of business.

Energy firms were compensated with UK taxpayer money for the difference between wholesale gas and electricity prices and the amount they charged customers.

Profits predicted to continue despite 'one-off' claims

A report by Warm This Winter, a coalition of anti-poverty and environmental groups, found Britain’s energy suppliers are set to make £1.74bn in profits from customers’ bills over the next year.

Suppliers have seen the annual profits they make from the average customer on a variable tariff rise from £27 in 2017 to £130 in early 2023.

Simon Francis, coordinator of the End Fuel Poverty Coalition, said: “This report shines a light on the murky depths of Britain’s broken energy system. Without a fundamental overhaul of the energy grid and energy tariffs, households will continue to lose out while suppliers will profit.

“(We) need to see urgent and sustained action to reduce our reliance on high levels of energy consumption, such as improving the energy efficiency of homes, driving an increase in cheap renewables and a move away from the fossil fuel profiteers of the past.”

However, an Ofgem spokesperson claimed the profits are an anomaly after the relative struggles of energy companies over the previous years.

They said: “After four years of loss-making, the energy retail sector is expected to return to profit this year.

"The profits we’ll see in the energy retail sector for the first half of this year are a one-off as suppliers recoup some of the significant costs and losses they incurred over recent years due to Covid and the Russian invasion of Ukraine.”

Energy Price Guarantee unlikely to be reintroduced

Energy Secretary Grant Shapps appears to be unwilling to protect households from rising energy bills with another Energy Price Guarantee.

In an interview with The Times, Shapps said: “We don’t want to be in a position… of having to constantly pay energy bills.

“We’re having to tax people in order to pay it back to people… that money doesn’t come from nowhere.”

The UK’s largest energy company has been slammed for making almost a billion pounds in profit while householders struggle to afford to keep their homes warm.

British Gas has defended the £969 million profit it made after caps on energy price rises rose, allowing it to make more money from household bills, claiming it is a "one-off" recovery of costs.

But fuel poverty campaigners and MPs have slammed the profit as "indefensible" and "obscene" in light of the cost of living crisis hitting British families.

Profits almost £900m more than last year

In the same period last year, British Gas reported a profit of £98 million, representing a nearly £900 million increase.

About half (£500 million) of the company's profit was due to changes to the price cap made by energy regulator Ofgem.

However, Chris O’Shea, the boss of Centrica, British Gas’s parent company, insisted the profits were not a sign of things to come.

He stated: “We would not expect to see profits anywhere near this level [in the future], it really is a one-off… It’s important that people understand that it’s simply a recovery of costs that we incurred in the past.”

So why did customers have to shiver through winter?

These profits have prompted anger from political groups that people were left suffering whilst gas company's revelled in record profits. 

Emi Murphy, Warm Homes Campaigner at Friends of the Earth, said it is "indefensible" that energy firms are making billions in excess profits, adding: “There’s no acceptable reality where an energy company should see profits rise by nearly 900% over the same period millions struggle to afford to power and heat their homes.

“It’s indefensible that firms behind both our soaring bills and the deteriorating state of the planet are still raking in billions in excess profits.”

Simon Francis, Co-ordinator of the End Fuel Poverty Coalition, said: “These profits are a further sign of Britain’s broken energy system.

“At a time when household energy debt is spiralling to record levels and energy bills remain double what they were just a few years ago.”

Labour MP Zarah Sultana tweeted: “British Gas just reported record profits: £969,000,000 in 6 months, nearly 10x what it made last year.

“Your sky-high bills are their obscene profits. It's time to bring energy into public ownership, running it to meet your needs, not their greed.”

The Energy Price Cap was originally introduced by the government in 2019 to limit how much firms can charge consumers for their energy, and ensure households on default tariffs pay fair gas and electricity prices.

However, energy price rises in Europe forced Ofgem to increase the energy price cap to stop energy companies from going out of business.

The government also introduced the Energy Price Guarantee in October after Ofgem's Price Cap surged to £3,549, which could have made energy unaffordable for many families.

Energy firms were compensated for the difference between wholesale gas and electricity prices and the amount they charged customers.

 Ofgem claim profits are a 'one-off'

However, these record profits have been claimed to be an anomaly after these energy companies' relative struggles over the previous years.

An Ofgem spokesperson justified the profits, stating: “After four years of loss-making, the energy retail sector is expected to return to profit this year. The profits we’ll see in the energy retail sector for the first half of this year are a one-off as suppliers recoup some of the significant costs and losses they incurred over recent years due to Covid and the Russian invasion of Ukraine.

“We have been clear they must not pay dividends until they are financially robust enough to weather future shocks. We’re closely monitoring levels of customer service, support and financial adequacy and can and will act where suppliers are found lacking.”

Measured surveys offer peace of mind, allow for accurate plans and drawings to be carried out and ensure you are making the very most of the house or plot you are building on. 

Organising the right house surveys should be high on your list of priorities and carried out way before any work begins on your project. 

"Whilst an empty garden plot might appear completely flat, leading you to believe you should design a house suited to a level site, in reality, the garden may fall away with a steep gradient," explains architect Neil Turner. "A measured survey would not only show something like this up, but will also record all the physical objects on the land including trees, manholes, and services (if there are any)."

In this guide, we take a look at what a measured survey is, how to go about arranging one and the kind of costs you are likely to face when having one carried out. 

What is a measured survey?

Measured surveys are not to be confused with building surveys. 

"A building survey is a report on the physical condition, repair and state of the building," clarifies Neil Turner. "A measured survey is a detailed and accurate drawing of the current size of the building or plot, including plans and elevations.

"The process of measuring a building or site used to be a case of a tape measure, pen and paper — and on small jobs this is still (in my opinion) the best way. However, things have developed and now laser measures and full computer digital surveys are usually preferred."

Depending on whether the survey is being carried out on a building or plot, a measured survey should include:

• Site plans
• Floor plans
• Roof plans
• Cross sections
• External elevations

Will I need a measured survey?

So, will your project require you to have a measured survey carried out or is this a step you could afford to skip? While there are no laws to say you have to have one, most experts agree is it always better to arrange to have one.

"Many clients ask me if it’s really essential," says Neil Turner. "With an existing house, the plans and elevations will usually be required for a planning application anyway so it makes sense to have them produced accurately at the outset. In addition, your architect will also be able to make far better progress with up-to-date and accurate plans when creating the existing and the proposed information. These drawings will be useful through the whole build process for suppliers and sub-contractors to measure and design their elements. 

"Some clients pass across copies of old drawings and ask if this saves the bother of a survey. If these drawings are manual then they can help inform and allow some initial sketching to take place, but they can’t be made into a CAD file for the computer and invariably you can’t rely on the old drawings being accurate. So again, the advice is get the measured survey. There is never a circumstance where is not helpful to have one."

What other types of house survey are there?

Measured surveys can be carried out on plots and existing buildings, although the way in which this is done is obviously slightly different.  

• House surveys: This involves a surveyor or architect going around every room and measuring all the spaces in order to create a shape, joining them them together to form a house plan. "This plan shows up thickness of the walls. Chimneys, windows, doors and staircases are then all added, along with radiators and internal features. The elevations will include the outside features of the building in order that the plans and elevations can be read accurately together," says Neil Turner. "Surveying now involves 3D surveys, meaning that complicated shapes can be modelled, allowing the latest 3D drawing packages to be used even when working on older buildings. However, on domestic work 2D surveys are still more than sufficient. The accurate drawing allows the designer to understand and ‘read ‘the building. Structural walls can be determined by looking at their thickness and clues to the original layouts can also be gleaned, helping to build up a knowledge of the history of the building."
• Plot surveys: "On an plot, seeing accurate levels and falls will allow the architect or designer to come up with a solution perfectly suited to the gradients of the site," explains Neil. "Without this information the designer has to guess and that can only lead to problems. It may be that a split level design is required or site alterations are needed to mould the site to the shape of the required design. The biggest costs on site are the earthworks, foundations and drainage, so it is vital that the architect, quantity surveyor and builder have calculated all of this before starting and agreed the building costs.
  "On a large plot, having the trees positioned correctly on plan allows you to work out the best position for the new house based on its proximity to the existing trees and their roots. This also allows you to plan ahead for future planting."
  

Who can carry out a measured survey?

There are several options when choosing someone to carry out a measured survey on your site — architects, specialist survey companies or independent surveyors.  

"I have always undertaken the survey myself throughout my career and I insist on my staff undertaking the surveys themselves or being present when it’s been completed," says Neil Turner. "You can learn so much by walking around the building, room-by-room, absorbing the information. It is a skill to undertake a survey and architects need to be taught how to complete one properly. With the advent of specialist survey companies, I have seen less interest from younger architects wanting to do surveys. A survey is not something that could be undertaken by a client trying his hand for the first time.

"Specialist survey companies are particular useful on larger properties and site surveys. They have the latest measuring equipment and are able to create 3D work now being used on commercial projects. If you are using a survey company you need to be very clear on your requirements, timescales and outputs for the survey and again I would advise that your architect is better placed to negotiate with these survey companies as they ‘speak the language.’"

How much does a measured survey cost?

There is no fixed sum charged for measured surveys as they are generally priced according to site or building in question. 

At the lower end of the price scale, for small terraced or semi-detached houses, expect figures of around £800. These can easily rise to £2,000 or more for very large detached properties or period homes. On average, expect costs of between £1,400 - £1,500.

If you've found that your water pressure has dropped after installing an air source heat pump into your existing home — there's a simple solution.

But first, let us explore the cause and why this problem tends to happen after retrofitting an air source heat pump and not so often when installing one in a newly-built property or home that has been completely re-plumbed.

It's also helpful to understand that plumbing in many British homes was originally designed around water tanks being in the loft due to unreliable pressure and flow from the mains water supply. These were referred to as vented systems. By lifting the water up to the loft the height gave it a gravity-fed pressure. The higher it was, the better the pressure. It also allowed for expansion of the central heating water as it heated up.

Mains water supply has now been significantly improved in most areas and as such we no longer need the gravity systems as we can get much better water pressure directly from the incoming main.

Why does my water pressure keep dropping after installing a heat pump?

With high pressure and high temperatures from gas (or oil) boilers we needed to mix a lot of cold water into the hot water in order to not scald. The hot water storage may have previously been at around 70°C. Meanwhile, with a heat pump cylinder, you may typically store water at around 50°C. 

Considering that the water temperature that you shower at is around 38°C, you will need to blend a lot more water to the high temperature water than the lower temperature water with the heat pump cylinder to bring it down to 38C.

This can sometimes cause a few complications when changing from a high temperature boiler to a lower temperature heat source such as when installing an air source heat pump.

Issues usually happen in areas where you have a very good pressure coming into the home from the main supply. The plumbing may have been modified in your home over the years and if mixing valves (thermostatic showers) have been added then you may notice a drop in temperature with the new low heat source.

The problem is usually caused by the hot water cylinder having a pressure reducing valve and the cold water supply coming directly from the main cold feed. This means that the cold water could be at a higher pressure and overpower the hot.

What can I do to fix my water pressure?

This problem can be solved by fitting another pressure reducing valve on the cold feed to balance the hot and cold water pressure. 

On a new build home this is normally taken care of by plumbing the hot and cold from the same pressure reducing set on the cylinder. However, it might have been overlooked when retrofitting an air source heat pump into an existing home.

In areas with lower pressure main water supply, the imbalance of pressure due to pressure reducing valves is not really a problem. That said, there may also be unbalanced pressure in the taps if the hot water pipe runs are smaller-sized pipes or they have much longer runs and many more elbow fittings. 

It is important to be sure that the water is balanced and, if in doubt, it is worth getting a good plumber in to check the system flow and pressure to be sure your system is optimised. It's probably worth making sure that you understand how do heat pumps work yourself too, if you don't already.

Underfloor heating in bathrooms is a popular choice — but how viable is it?

Underfloor heating (UFH) creates an even heat that emanates around a room, from the toes up. It’s like one large underfoot radiator. One problem with installing UFH in a bathroom is that most homeowners also often want a towel radiator — combined, they’re a big investment in a room only used for a small proportion of the day. But the comfort of stepping out of a bath or shower onto a warm floor is often justification enough. 

Here, we take a look at the best types of underfloor heating for bathrooms, the options for those wishing to retrofit it in bathroom renovation projects and explain the associated costs — as well as how much it is likely to set you back to run.

What types of underfloor heating are there?

The options for UFH are either wet or electric. 

A wet system features pipes that are filled with warm water that’s powered by either a boiler or heat pump. The pipes are concealed within the floor and are more often than not covered by a screed.

In the case of electric underfloor heating, this system consists of wires – either as a system or integrated into matting – that warms up when it’s switched on.

In a new build project, where heating the bathroom is a part of the whole-house heating system, a wet system will offer significantly better running costs than electric systems and the installation cost (as part of a larger system) will be comparable to an electric system. But for retrofit projects, electric systems offer distinct advantages.

Installation cost will be lower — £25 to £30/m2 compared to an installed cost of over £45/m2 for wet UFH; their lower profile minimises the impact on ceiling height (less than 10mm), and the weight imposed on the existing floor. Even a low profile wet system is likely to raise the floor level (in a retrofit) by at least 20mm.

In short, in a new build a wet system, with a wet towel radiator, is likely to be preferred and in a retrofit project the electric system, with an electric towel radiator, is likely to be better.

How do you retrofit underfloor heating in a bathroom?

In retrofit situations, underfloor heating installation is not a straightforward job, but it can be done. 

The problem is that, unless the existing floor can be taken up and the UFH installed below it, UFH will raise the finished floor level. Even raising the floor level by 10mm (likely to be the case for electric UFH) can be tricky to deal with around baths, shower trays, pedestals and so on. But lifting the floor and installing below it is not easy either. 

Then there is insulation to consider. Any UFH system will need insulation below it to encourage the heat into the room above rather than the room below.

There are technically competent DIYers that will successfully take on the job of fitting either system (although sign off from an electrician is needed for dry systems) but generally this is an installation job best left to the professionals.

How much does bathroom underfloor heating cost to install?

Underfloor hating costs vary hugely with the scope of the project but will be disproportionately high if it is just the bathroom being done. For example, one high street retailer offers a 10m2 electric UFH kit for £292 and a 1m2 kit for £59.

The only sensible option is to get three quotes (minimum) for your job. And perhaps get comparative quotes for electric and wet options, if either would work in your space.

How much does underfloor heating cost to run?

It depends, obviously, on how big the bathroom is but also on how well it is insulated.

Assume an ‘average’ bathroom of 10m2 floor area and insulation to current standards. In that case electric UFH is likely to cost around £120 per year and a wet system around £45 per year (assuming a gas boiler).

Bear in mind that the recent massive fluctuations in energy prices means that it is impossible to predict what they might become.

Is underfloor heating or radiators better in bathrooms?

Technically there is no difference between either way of heating a bathroom.

The amount of heat needed in the bathroom is determined by the size and thermal efficiency of that room. It does not affect running costs too much if that heat is delivered by radiators or UFH. The capital cost difference between radiators and wet UFH is also unlikely to make or break the deal.

Some would argue that UFH is a little cheaper to run than radiators while others will argue that it is more expensive to install than radiators. Ultimately this does depend on the existing setup of your home.

What are the other considerations when installing UFH in bathrooms?

The preparation work will make the difference. It’s likely that if you’re renovating a bathroom, it will already have a radiator and installing a larger or a better looking one will be a relatively cheap, easy job.

Installing UFH is likely to involve a lot of preparation — lifting and reinstalling the floor covering, increasing the undercut on doors, working around fixtures. The extent of that work, and the cost, could be the deciding factor.

But perhaps the biggest issue is to ensure that the insulation and airtightness are up to scratch. That will reduce both installation and running costs

Which types of bathroom flooring are best with underfloor heating?

One of the myths around UFH is that the floor covering has to be ceramic tiles or similar. This is not true and you can safely use whatever bathroom flooring you want (within reason).

However, it being a bathroom, ceramic tiles would be a good choice. It must also be noted that the heat output of a UFH system can vary from 50W/m2 to upwards of 200W/m2. The floor construction, the levels of insulation and the floor covering will directly affect the amount of heat getting into the room, and the speed with which it gets there. So it is important that the installer is asked to do the maths and work out how much heat is needed in the bathroom and the required heat output of the UFH system. That calculation will be directly affected by the floor covering. For example, a thin ceramic tile will allow the room to be heated more quickly than a thick ceramic tile but will also cool down more quickly. A wood floor covering will also take more time to heat the room but will cool down gradually.

Boiler service costs are often an afterthought once you have had a brand new boiler installed. However, if you want to keep your boiler in tip-top condition you will need to have it serviced at regular intervals. So how much will a boiler service cost and how often will you need to have it serviced?

Obviously if you are choosing a new boiler, it will be serviced when installed, but there are some factors which impact service costs going forward. A service will also reveal if you need any new parts to get it back running efficiently and effectively, ultimately keeping running costs down.  

Here we give you expert advice on boiler service costs, what a service should include and how often your boiler should be serviced.  

Boiler service costs: How much does it cost to service a gas boiler?  

The cost of a service depends on a number of factors but as general rule you shouldn’t be paying any more than £100 as Martyn Bridges, Director of Technical Services for Worcester Bosch, reveals: “A boiler service is typically between £70 and £100, however, some service providers offer service contracts which also cover breakdowns.”

If you are paying for a one-off boiler service you will typically have to pay more than if you are having regular services or are on a contract. As an example British Gas charges £99 for a one-off service and from £93 if you are tied into an annual service.

Independent local boiler engineers will often charge slightly less than a national chain so its best to check first. Mark Wilkins, technologies and training director at Vaillant suggests: “Your local heating engineer will best advise on the cost of a service as it varies depending on their offer. Some installers will service a product annually for a fixed fee, whilst others offer an insurance-style package covering the replacement of spares and labour where needed.” 

Duncan Craig of MAXGAS Boiler Services gives an insight into how much an independent typically costs: “The standard cost to perform a routine inspection and maintenance service on a wall-mounted boiler will typically cost between £60 to £90 including VAT depending on which company you use.”

He goes on to say that a service may reveal that further servicing may be needed. “Depending on age, manufacturers' service intervals or as a result of tests whilst doing an interim service that indicates more extensive servicing is required. 

"For example, Worcester Bosch boilers instructions ask the engineer to perform a test on the performance of the boilers fan to check how clean the heat exchanger is inside. If the fan test is below a certain reading on a gauge then a full strip down and clean is required and new gaskets and spark electrodes are often replaced at this time if required or thought sensible at the time. 

"These types of service vary in cost depending on exactly what parts are recommended and the labour time involved. But typically a strip down and clean service with new electrodes, burner door gasket etc., would cost between £150 to £225 depending on make and model of boiler." 

How much does it cost to service an oil boiler? 

Oil boilers are typically more expensive to buy and run than a gas boiler but servicing costs are on a par with a gas boiler. You should expect to pay less than £100 for a service, but again – like gas boilers – different variables can affect how much you have to pay.  

What variables can impact the cost of a boiler service? 

Boilers come in all shapes, sizes and ages which can have an effect on the cost of a service, but this isn’t always the case as Mark Wilkins from Vaillant informs Homebuilding & Renovating: “The size and age of a domestic boiler is unlikely to impact the service cost. However, the type of boiler may vary the cost as sometimes additional work is needed like checking expansion vessels and pressure relief valves, also additional qualifications may be needed when working on unvented hot water cylinders.”

Location doesn't have any great bearing on the cost of a service, being relatively consistent across the country. However, the distance a gas engineer has to travel can put up the cost — so look for someone local.

Other variables that can affect the cost – though not directly related to service costs – are emergency or out of hours call outs and repairs and replacements. Both can add significantly to the cost of maintaining your boiler.  

There are other extras you may need to pay for, too. "If you have a hot water cylinder, you will also need this servicing annually, and it's often a good idea to have this done at the same time as servicing the boiler, if your engineer is suitably qualified. This will inevitably add to the cost of your annual boiler service," says Claire Lloyd, editor-in-chief of Homebuilding & Renovating.

"We may have other gas appliances, such as gas hobs and fires, which also need servicing annually. Again, it makes sense to have them serviced at the same time as your boiler, but this will all add to the final bill. British Gas currently charge £167 to undertake both a service on your boiler and a gas hob, for instance."

Is a boiler service worth it? 

A boiler needs to be maintained regularly to keep it working efficiently, so a boiler service is definitely worth it. Nobody wants their boiler breaking down in the middle of winter when it's needed most. Being without hot water and heat is a definite no and regular servicing will help keep a boiler running. 

But it’s not just the obvious lack of heating and hot water that can cause issues as Bridges from Worcester Bosch explains: “It is important to have your boiler serviced annually, not only to maintain its efficient operation but also to comply with the warranty terms and conditions. An annual service may also be needed to replace any seals, gaskets and perhaps electrodes that may have a requirement to be pro-actively replaced.”

The downsides to not getting your boiler serviced are obvious for the most part, but different manufacturers have different conditions as Bridges tells Homebuilding & Renovating. “You will need to check your boiler manufacturer's terms and conditions, but you may lose the warranty cover on your boiler if you don’t have it serviced annually. 

"You might also leave yourself more exposed to a boiler breakdown as the service would identify parts that could be showing signs of wear. Finally, the combustion settings need to be checked and if necessary reset to optimise efficiency.”

What does a full boiler service include? 

This may differ depending on what type of boiler you have and how old it is but an annual service will first start with a visual check where the engineer will look for any obvious signs of issues and make sure the pipework is up to scratch and there are no leaks.

The next step is to remove the boiler cover and check and clean components inside the boiler. 

Craig from MAXGAS Boiler Services describes what to expect from a service: “It should include removing the front cover, visual inspection of boiler and internal components, checking for leaks and signs of corrosion, electrical safety check and check polarity. 

"Also, if a condensing boiler, [this will involve a] check and clean of the condense trap if required and clean of the magnetic filter. If a sealed system e.g. a combi boiler or system boiler, then drop system pressure and check expansion vessel pressure, top up if required. Finally combustion checks using flue gas analyser and adjust gas valve as per manufacturers instructions to ensure the boiler is operating efficiently.”

If any components are not working as they should, the engineer may suggest replacement. It's often best to get the problem fixed quickly as the longer it is left the worse the problem may get. 

How often should a boiler be serviced? 

You will need to check the manufacturer's warranty and terms and conditions to make sure, but most boiler manufacturers expect the boiler to be serviced every 12 months to keep it in good working order. If it is not serviced regularly then the manufacturer is within their rights to void the warranty.

If you have boiler cover/insurance then this will typically state the same. If the boiler is not serviced regularly – typically 12 months – then the policy could be invalidated. So again make sure that you check the fine print of your policy to see how often you have to have it serviced.

If you are the landlord of a property a regular annual service is not a choice, but a legal requirement. And, the benefit of a regular service is that it will spot problems early and save you money in the long run.  

When should you service your boiler? 

It is worth noting that homeowners are not legally required to have their boiler serviced regularly. However, boilers typically come with a five to 10 year warranty, which means that if there is a genuine fault with the boiler during the warranty period, it will be fixed for free by the manufacturer. That said, for the warranty to remain effective, the boiler will need to be serviced every 12 months from the date of installation. 

But what is the best time of the year to get your boiler serviced? "Late spring, summer or early autumn are good times of the year to have your boiler serviced. Once 'heating season' begins, heating engineers tend to be busier with call-outs. And should your boiler need a new part or a serious fault is found, you don't want to be without heating for any longer than necessary in the colder months," says Claire Lloyd, editor-in-chief of Homebuilding & Renovating.

Who should service your boiler? 

A boiler needs to be serviced by a qualified person. “A boiler should be serviced each year by a Gas Safe-registered engineer," Wilkins from Vaillant explains. 

"Servicing your boiler will help to make sure it stays safe and uses fuel efficiently. There are clear requirements for servicing a boiler and in all instances, the manufacturer’s instructions should be followed for service and maintenance requirements."

Bear in mind that some local heating engineers specialise in particular brands. It's often a good idea to choose someone with expertise and experience with your brand of boiler.

How long do boiler services take? 

This will depend on what type of boiler is being serviced but expect a service to take around an hour. If, however, issues are found, then the service could inevitably take longer. Consult your engineer who will be able to give you more details. 

If you have a combi boiler a standard service should be slightly shorter and can take as little as 30 minutes. 

The cost to rewire a house can be a significant factor when buying a property to renovate, or if the electrics in your current home are past their best.

Generally speaking, if the wiring in your property is over 25 years old, then it’s highly likely it will need to be renewed. Warning signs can include frequent blown fuses, slight shocks from switches or sockets, and lights which persistently flicker or dim. If your wiring is unsafe due to age or faults, the consequences can range from your entire electrical system regularly tripping to lethal shocks or a house fire. 

Rewiring a house is a major job and can be costly but it’s usually done as a necessity rather than by choice. The total cost will be affected by a variety of factors which we'll cover below, along with potential hidden or unforeseen costs and top tips for keeping costs down.

How much does it cost to rewire a house?

For a basic rewire, expect to pay from around £2,500 for a one-bedroom flat to around £6,500 for a four-bedroom house. However, the variety of options in terms of quality and aesthetics plus any optional add-ons can increase costs considerably.

What factors influence the cost of rewiring a house?

The size of the property in question is the primary factor, but individual requirements can massively affect the overall cost and you could spend as much on a two-bedroom flat with lots of ‘extras’ as you would on a basic rewire for a four-bedroom house.

With house rewiring, the list of potential add-ons is long and very tempting, so prioritise the essential items you need first and see what you can then afford within your budget. 

Here are some of the factors that will impact costs:

1. Additional switches and sockets

It’s not just the number of additional electrical sockets and switches that will increase cost, but also the specification and finishes you choose. There’s a huge range to select from and opting for high-end materials and decorative finishes can significantly increase your expenditure. 

Standard white plastic fittings are the most cost-effective, but may not be the most aesthetically pleasing. Chrome or brass-plated switches and sockets will increase the cost, as will adding USB sockets.

2. Additional lighting

If you’ve bought an old house with lighting restricted to single ceiling lights in all rooms, you’ll probably be considering additional ceiling or wall lighting, spotlights, cabinet/plinth lighting in the kitchen, mirror/shower lighting in the bathroom and so on. 

Lighting can have a transformative effect on a room and the additional benefits can easily justify the cost if it’s within your budget.

3. Additional aerial points

Gone are the days when the only TV in the house was in the living room. Modern requirements mean TVs are found in the living room, kitchen, bedrooms and even bathrooms. However, this will again add to the cost of a rewire.

4. Adding an electric oven or electric shower

If you are rewiring, you may wish to change your oven and mains shower. (Remember to also factor in the cost of a plumber for the installation.)

"The modern kitchen often features double ovens and an induction hob, which will need separate wiring," says Claire Lloyd, Editor in Chief of Homebuilding & Renovating. "If you're aiming to renovate your kitchen within the foreseeable future, it's worth planning for this and factoring in the extra cost during a rewire, as retrospectively adding such wiring at a later date will be even more costly and disruptive."

5. A new consumer unit

You may need a new consumer unit if the existing one or old fuse board has become damaged over time or simply doesn’t meet the increased power or safety requirements of a modern home. Your electrician may be required by regulations to upgrade the system to add new circuits.

"A new consumer alone is likely to cost in the region of £400-£600," says Claire Lloyd.

6. Security systems, smoke and heat detectors

If you are in need of a rewire, it’s unlikely your home will already have these features. Introducing security and safety equipment should rank highly in your budget.

Smoke and heat detectors can now be wired in and connected to one another (instead of relying solely on battery power). Rewiring provides a good opportunity to undertake this task.

7. Electric underfloor heating

If your carpets and flooring are being lifted for the rewire and may need replacing, this would be the most cost-effective time to add electric underfloor heating if desired.

8. Outdoor power supply

Aside from security lighting, think aesthetic lighting, heaters, outdoor kitchens, electric gates, hot tub wiring, electronic timers for irrigation systems or even just somewhere to charge your phone while you’re enjoying alfresco dining. These can all require electrical supply.

9. A new or upgraded wired data network

Working from home brings with it greater reliance on technology and for this you need stable internet access and if you’re rewiring your home this is the best time to address this. An experienced electrician may be able to lay the cabling for this. 

10. The complexity of the house and project

Some houses will present additional challenges which can make rewiring a longer and/or more difficult task. These may include non-standard layouts, multiple floors including lofts and basements, solid walls which are more difficult to chase into than timber stud walls, all of which will add to the cost of an average rewire. 

What's more, high-end will most likely require all of the above plus perhaps some additional items, such as:

• cinema room
• AV system
• electric blinds
• solar installations
• swimming pool pumps
• electric roof windows
• garden office
• UV lighting for greenhouses
• smart technology installations
• CCTV systems
• access control systems
• electric vehicle charging points

11. Replacing surface-mounted switches and sockets

Even if you only require a basic rewire with none of the extras, your current system may have switches and sockets that have been surfaced mounted. This would be the perfect time to channel them all in. 

It will increase the cost, even more so if the walls are solid as opposed to stud, but the finish will be far more attractive and will also be more appealing to any prospective buyer.

12. Unforeseen issues on site

Whenever works are undertaken and walls or floors are opened up, there’s always the potential for unforeseen costs. Rotten wooden floors may need to be replaced or ceilings may need to be reinforced to take new light fittings. 

Asbestos can also be discovered when rewiring, particularly within artex wall coverings. Experienced electricians are trained to identify this and can easily arrange testing and removal.

Whatever costs have been quoted for a project, I always advise clients to add another 10% to it, to mitigate any nasty surprises that might arise. If you can open up the floors and get your electrician to assess the ceilings prior to providing a final quote, even better.

13. Location and property occupation

Location will naturally impact cost, based on labour prices alone. London is typically the most expensive region in the UK to undertake rewiring, for instance.

Occupation of the house during the works is also a major factor. Electricians can work faster in an empty property, which will reduce the project time and keep costs down.

What do rewiring costs typically include?

Ideally, you should get a minimum of three quotes and ask the electricians to break down the costs so you can compare what you will be charged for. (Word of month is great way of finding an electrician.) Spending time on the detail, such as finalising the number of lights, switches and sockets, will avoid any changes later on, which might be costly if not incorporated at the outset.

You should expect a quote for a ‘basic’ rewire to cover the removal and replacement of all existing wiring, standard white socket outlets and switches, and a new consumer unit, before any additional requirements are added.

In most cases, your electrician will supply all the basic items (in consultation with you on switch and socket finishes) and you can purchase your own light fittings according to taste and budget.

Waste disposal isn’t typically an included cost but most electricians can provide a separate fee for disposing of waste should you require it.

What will not be included in rewiring costs?

Aside from basic sealing around new sockets and switches, making good is not typically included in a standard quote. Plastering walls or reskimming is a job that will need to be undertaken after rewiring.

Your electrician may offer to engage plasterers and decorators on your behalf, but it will nearly always be cheaper to source your own trades directly and this also makes it much easier to address any issues that may arise, without having to go through your electrician. 

Remember that it’s not just the walls that may need replastering. Your ceiling will most likely need some repair and repainting, together with relaying or replacement of your floors. A simple carpet lift will typically be replaced by your electrician but it is essential to establish the extent of the likely damage beforehand so that you can be forewarned and budget accordingly.

These additional costs will depend on the size of the area concerned and your personal choice as to the quality and type of finish required. It is well worth costing these up-front so you have a clear idea of the total budget required for your project.

What can I do to reduce the costs of rewiring a house?

Much of the preparatory and finishing work can be undertaken to reduce the overall cost. Depending on your DIY skills and your project, this can range from removing all the flooring and any wall panelling to chasing out the walls for new cabling, battening ceilings and then plastering and decorating.

If you have the necessary skills, you can also consider fitting the lighting yourself as no certificate will be required for this.

You can ask your electrician to provide an ‘installation only’ quote, if you want to source and supply all the materials yourself (cabling, consumer unit, switches, sockets and so on). While your electrician may be able to get bulk buying discounts on their trade accounts, they may not necessarily pass these on to you. You can easily compare the cost in the quote with what you could achieve on the market directly.

Finally, work with your electrician to achieve as much as possible initially, as you can always upgrade to more decorative sockets and/or switches or designer light fittings at a later stage and, for example, still achieve your outside sockets and lights and so on now. An experienced electrician can provide valuable recommendations to keep you within budget and help you achieve your goals.

Will rewiring a house add value to a property?

Rewiring your home will, without doubt, have a positive effect on your property’s value. Any buyer noting that the electrics are in need of a complete overhaul will be mentally deducting that cost from the purchase price.

Also, most buyers (unless they are planning on carrying out a total renovation) prefer not to have to undertake any immediate work and would rather pay the full price for a property that has recently been rewired, to avoid the hassle and be safe in the knowledge that it won’t be a cost to bear for many years to come.

In addition, signs of outdated and dangerous wiring can lead buyers to wonder what other hidden issues there may be with the property. 

At the end of the day, if your home requires a rewire, your own safety and peace of mind is paramount and you can’t place a value on that.

Summary of this article: A French drain is a sloped, gravel-filled trench laid with geotextile membrane and a perforated pipe to help direct surface and excess groundwater away from a property. It helps prevent problems such as flooding, damp and soil erosion by channelling the water to a more suitable outlet, such as a soakaway.

If you're exploring the ins and outs of drainage systems, you may have heard the term French drain. But what is a French drain, why might you need one and where do you put one to get the best results?

As with any type of drainage, a French drain will essentially help remove excess water. But, unlike some drainage, it's also a feature that can be added to existing homes, as well as incorporated into a new build project.

We asked the experts to explain the ins and outs of French drains so you can figure out if you need to include one in your plans or renovations.

What is a French drain?

French drains are used as a form of land drainage and are named after Henry French – a 19th-century farmer (and judge).

Unlike soakaways, which are a pit in the ground into which you run your rainwater drainage, French drains are used as a means of preventing too much surface water building up and causing problems.

"A French drain is essentially a trench filled with clean gravel or stone. It contains a perforated pipe designed to drain surface water, or groundwater, away from a specific location to prevent pooling," explains self build expert, Mark Stevenson.

"The design of a French drain, which includes a sloped element, means it provides a free-flowing, gravel-lined route for water to follow, discharging it somewhere more suitable such as a soakaway at a lower level."

French drains are also sometimes referred to as trench drains or land drains.

How do French drains work?

The idea behind French drains is instead of excess water sitting around on the surface of the ground, it will instead seep down into the trench to be taken away to a drainage area.

"Think of a French drain like an underground gutter," says Mark Stevenson. "Water enters the trench either through the gravel (in the case of surface water) or from saturated ground (in the case of groundwater). From there, it seeps into the perforated pipe, which then channels the water away to a discharge point."

So why does it need the different elements such as membrane and pipes?

"The membrane acts as a filter to stop soil seeping into the gravel and pipework," explains Homebuilding & Renovating's DIY expert, Steve Jenkins. "The gravel helps water soak into the ground while the excess water rises through the holes in the pipe to run away."

But it's not just the trench that is lined with a geotextile filter membrane, such as DRAINTEX Drainage Geotextile Membrane Landscape Fabric from Drainage Superstore, the pipe is also sometimes wrapped in this to ensure all the soil and debris is prevented from entering into the pipe and clogging it up.

What are the signs I need a French drain?

If you've experienced water pooling outside your home, you may have already seen the warning signs that you need a French drain say the experts.

"Water forming in areas around the home and taking too long to drain off is a classic example," confirms Steve Jenkins. "Waterlogged soil, damp on your foundations, and mould growth on walls can all be signs that you need a French drain."

"Check for boggy soil or pooling water next to a hard landscaped area after rainfall," says Mark Stevenson, "and you'll spot the classic sign of needing a French drain."

However, if you're building a new home, you of course won't see the signs, instead it's important to think about what you are building to establish if you might need a French drain.

"When building a new home, or an engineered structure such as a retaining wall, a French drain is a preventative ground water management measure, so its may be a key part of the overall drainage design solution in order to prevent structural failure or damp penetration," explains Mark.

Where is the best place for a French drain?

With regards to installing a French drain, in order to be most effective, your French drain needs to be installed at the lowest point of the flood-prone area you are dealing with, and in a position that means it can take the surface water to a drainage point elsewhere.

"French drains are typically installed near a home's foundation to prevent water pooling and direct it away from the structure," says Steve Jenkins. "They can also be used in outdoor areas susceptible to flooding."

"French drains are usually installed where water collects or where there’s boggy, saturated ground," adds Mark Stevenson. "This could typically be behind a retaining wall, saturated garden areas, next to hard paving or at the bottom of a slope where surface water tends to gather.

"In gardens, they’re commonly laid beneath waterlogged lawns or alongside hard landscaping to manage surface water runoff," he adds.

If adding one to an existing home, it is a job you can do yourself, but make sure that when planning on the route your French drain will take, you can be confident there are no pipes, cables or trees that could get in the way of the flow of water.

What size French drain do I need?

In order for your French drain to work effectively, you'll need to make sure you use the correct width and depth. But how do you calculate what you need?

"The size of a French drain depends on how much water you need to deal with, the type of soil, and how quickly the water needs to drain," says Mark Stevenson. "Some ground conditions will need the French drain to hold water so it will need to be sized to provide a designed ‘capacity’."

If however you are installing one on an existing property, "the basic steps are to firstly measure the length of the drain from its starting point to its drainage point. This indicates how much pipework you require," says Steve Jenkins.

"The depth and width should be approximately 30cm, then multiply these dimensions to determine the area needed for the membrane and gravel. Tools such as this French Drain calculator can assist in figuring out what you need," he adds.

"For residential garden use, a typical French drain is usually about 200mm wide and 450-600mm deep, depending on soil conditions," expands Mark Stevenson, "and a 100mm perforated pipe is usually sufficient for most landscaping scenarios.

"But, to calculate the size most accurately, you'll need to know how much area you're collecting water from, as well as the expected rainfall and estimated flow rate.

"It can be a bit complicated," warns Mark, "so for anything complex, such when using a French drain as part of an engineered structure such as a retaining wall, or to provide a method of surface water disposal from a building, it's best to consult an engineer who'll do a percolation test and the proper calculations."

It's also vital to remember that you will need to consider the fall when calculating the size of your French drain, with a slope of at least 1:50 from the highest end of the trench to where it eventually discharges. So, for every 1m of trench, it should fall 20mm. Note that this is the minimum fall you should aim for.

Not sure whether to tackle the job of adding a French drain yourself or call in an professional? Find out how much you can expect to pay for French drain costs before making your final decision.

Air source heat pump positioning is one of the most common questions I get asked when homeowners are looking at specify this renewable technology. 

There is a common train of thought that the outdoor unit should be placed on the south side of the property where it will benefit from the heat from the sun. However, there are a lot of variables to consider when siting an air source heat pump and unfortunately in the greater scheme of things the sun is only a very small one. 

In fact, choosing where to position an air source heat pump should be dictated by a location which offers free moving air, the distance to the distribution pipework, effective mitigation of noise pollution and of course aesthetics — not simply the orientation to the sun.

While a good installer will advise on location, here we take you through some key considerations with regards to where the outdoor unit ideally should – and shouldn't – be positioned.

1. Air source heat pump positioning might be dictated by planning

Planning permission for an air source heat pump could be the first hurdle when deciding on a suitable location. 

This will usually be granted under general permitted development rules (GPDR). However, these do not cover installation to the front aspect of the property, and the noise impact of the specific heat pump unit must also be calculated in relation to any windows on habitable rooms on adjoining properties.

2. The distance from the manifold is key

When installing an air source heat pump, distance from the heat pump outdoor unit to the heating manifold or hot water cylinder is very important. 

Whatever the distance, the pipes will need to be insulated. However, a longer pipe run will have a greater heat loss, require improved insulation and could have a greater circulation pump energy demand, which will all add to air source heat pump costs — not only to the installation but to the running costs as well. 

Keep these pipe runs as short as practicable and make sure that they are insulated with a high quality, waterproof, UV resistant and rodent-protected insulation.

3. Consider noise when siting an air source heat pump

Also important is whether the heat pump will disturb you. While people often wonder are air source heat pumps noisy, most new heat pumps aren't and the sound output is calculated by the installer.

However, if placed outside a bedroom window or right next to a patio or veranda, or even next to the neighbour's windows, then noise could be an issue when it runs at full power.

4. A south-facing orientation isn't always best

Direct sunlight is not actually a benefit unless the heat pump is covered in snow. In the latter case a roof would actually be a better solution to protect the heat pump and keep the air flow unrestricted.

The argument may be that the air around the heat pump will be warmer on the south side of the property, but this is not necessarily the case because an air source heat pump moves a lot of air, up to around six cubic meters per second, and the compressor only actually starts when the fan has been running for a couple of minutes. The air will then be cooler and thus there will be no advantage of the unit being in the sun on the south side of the building.

On older technology heat pumps, the sunlight can actually also be an issue as many of them have sensors mounted on the casing that can get ‘confused’ by the heat from the sun, which causes it to run erratically and not according to the room thermostats. What's more, the hot water production can be limited, or in some cases completely overridden, on hot days.

5. Avoid positioning an air source heat pump directly next to parking or paths

Your heat pump should be in a position with free flowing air, with a clear area of about two metres in front of the fan and also no direct prevailing winds to counter the fan action.

This is because air coming out of the heat pump can be around 10 degrees cooler than ambient (even in winter) and if this cool air gets short circuited back into the heat pump it will lower the efficiency.

As the air is cold it makes sense to avoid positioning the heat pump near a walkway, parked vehicles or sensitive plants. When the ambient temperature is below 10 degrees, the air coming out of the heat pump can be below zero — this could then potentially freeze the path, vehicles or plants in front of it, causing a safety hazard or material damage.

Exactly what is a desiccant dehumidifier? This is a question you may have been asking if you are in the market for a dehumidifier to use in your home to combat problems arising from excess moisture. 

Perhaps you are looking at how to stop condensation, or maybe you have noticed some unnerving and ugly-looking damp or mould patches appearing on your walls. Maybe you are searching for ways to get your wet laundry dry faster now that the outdoor washing line has been relegated to the garden shed. Whatever your reasons for embarking on a hunt for one of these moisture-combatting machines, you need to make sure you know what's what in the world of dehumidifiers. 

Here, we explain what a desiccant dehumidifier is and how they differ from other types of dehumidifier available so you can make sure that the model you buy is right for your needs. 

What is a desiccant dehumidifier and how do they work?

There are two main types of dehumidifier and each is slightly better suited to certain situations and spaces than the other. Someone looking at how to stop window condensation, for example, will need a different model to someone looking to stop damp in their garage. 

In the main, the choice comes down to a desiccant dehumidifier and a compressor dehumidifier.

So, what is a desiccant dehumidifier and could it be the appliance you have been searching for? 

"With this type of dehumidifier, air is drawn in over a filter and passed over an absorbent material called Zeolite," begins Chris Michael of Meaco. 

"When this material is saturated, a heater located within the dehumidifier blows warm dry air across the Zeolite, condensing moisture into water which is then collected in a tank. Warm air is then passed back out of the dehumidifier at a higher temperature than the air that was taken in, so this dehumidifier can also act as a gentle heater."

How does a compressor dehumidifier differ to a desiccant dehumidifier?

Compressor dehumidifiers (also sometimes known as ‘refrigeration dehumidifiers’), which work quite differently from their desiccant counterparts.  

"This type of dehumidifier has a cold-coil system, like a fridge," says Chris Michael of Meaco. "These types of dehumidifiers have two sets of coils, the first cools to create the condensation, which is collected into the water tank, the second warms the dry air back to just above room temperature. This helps to create the dry air needed to combat condensation, mould and damp problems."

Are desiccant dehumidifiers expensive to run?

When it comes to dehumidifier running costs, there is a fair bit of difference between the different sizes of model, as well as the types.

"Compressor machines will always be cheaper to run than desiccant dehumidifiers, says Chris Michael. "That’s because they don’t return heat to the space and are only really designed for spaces above 10°C. So, running costs for them float
between 5p and 9p per hour based on the October 2022 cost of 34p per/kWh. 

"A compressor machine running at normal room temperatures will always be the cheapest way to dry the air, especially when you start looking at cost in terms of pence per litre of water."

That said, those savings are only worthwhile if a compressor unit is offering what you need from your dehumidifier.

"Desiccants win at lower temperatures and when someone actually wants to add warmth to a colder room in winter," says Chris. "In that case they get both water and warmth for their money. 

"This is a type of unit that works at lower temperatures and that the air is pushed back into the room as heat. They are often used in colder rooms like basements, garages and utility rooms. The costs to run this type of dehumidifier are different to the costs for a compressor dehumidifier, which is the better choice for general home use."

Which type of dehumidifier should I buy?

If you are looking for a dehumidifier to locate in a colder area of your home, such as a garage, unheated conservatory (condensation in conservatories can be a real problem) or basement, a desiccant model is likely to be the best option for you. Not only do they gently heat a space, but they also work better in colder rooms.

On the other hand, if you need a dehumidifier for a room that generally sits at around 15˚C or more, and want a way of getting rid of lots of excess moisture in a cost-efficient manner, a compressor could be better for you. 

Including solar panel ideas in a self build, renovation or conversion project is a readily-available way to improve your homes eco credentials and reduce your energy bills to boot — but they don't have to be an eye-sore!  

One of the most popular of domestic renewable systems, solar PV (photovoltaic) panels are a quiet, low-maintenance option which is, generally, relatively inexpensive to install (in the terms of renewable technologies). 

However, due to their required prominent position, usually on the roof, to achieve maximum efficiency, some homeowners might be hesitant to include solar panels and view them as an unsightly grey blight on top of their dream home. 

Here, we have collected some of our favourite projects who have dedicated their projects to fighting the good fight without negating their hard-won efforts of self build or renovation. 

Solar panel ideas: What is possible? 

A south-facing roof pitch between 30º and 40º is generally best for efficiency for solar panels (depending on the part of the country you're in) but this can be achieved in a number of ways, not just the immediately obvious. 

Considering roofing material, size of solar panel, any outbuilding on the plot and different mounting systems before jumping the gun and being left with a finish you're unhappy with. 

1. Put solar to the side 

Consider side or outbuildings on which to locate solar panels to keep the main building true to the architectural design. 

In keeping with the barn-style aesthetic of this self build, the homeowner decided to install their solar panels on the roof of the neighbouring annexe. 

Installing solar panels in this way can also assist if the roof pitch or orientation of the main house isn't optimal. 

2. Hide away solar panels on a flat roof

Installing solar pv panels on a flat roof is one step towards concealing their view from the ground, but this sustainable home includes raised sections which further hide the panels from view. 

Every inch of this self build eptimises an eco home in a stylish way — from the timber cladding to the green roof. 

3. Consider integrated solar tiles

While most solar panels should be installed 150mm away from the roof structure, integrated panels can be situated much closer, giving a more natural appearance to the exterior. 

While this might increase the cost of solar panels, the result is more than worth it if aesthetics is a concern and you're looking to replace or repair a roof anyway. 

Here, the solar panels fit beautifully alongside the rooflight and slate roof. 

4. Hide within the house design

This self build Passivhaus cleverly positioned their solar panels within the valley of their double-pitched roof. 

To comply with planning conditions and to give a gentle nod to the cottage which once stood on the plot, the house design features a traditional front with a more modern rear, giving the impression of a double-storey extension. 

The pitched roofs of the two sections allowed the PB and solar thermal panels to be positioned in such a way that they aren't immediately obvious unless you're looking for them. 

5. Use angles to your advantage

This timber frame self build was planned to be as ’green’ as possible, including a sedum roof, Polyflor LVT flooring (chosen for its A rating from BRE) and, of course solar panels. 

Interestingly, the angular design of the roof allowed the solar panels to be added at the south-facing rear of the house at the correct angle, blending into the zinc cladding which details the eco-house. 

6. Blend solar panels with the roof material 

The magnificent blend of contemporary and traditional in this oak-framed house meant the completely glazed gables had to be positioned facing north, allowing the more conservative oak-clad front to face south, perfect for adding a few solar panels. 

The local Cotswolds stone blends seamlessly with both the countryside surrounding and the solar array.

7. Move solar panels to a different space

All the electricity for this solar powered house in Scotland is generated by 15kW of ground-mounted PV solar panels. 

The panels were outsourced to the edge of their property rather than disrupt the sculptural roof design. (The panels can be seen in the centre of the image behind grass and a fence.)

Surplus heat is stored in the thick concrete beneath the timber floors. 

8. Add solar panels to a wing or separate section

For a more subtle solar panel installation, place the renewables on a lesser seen section or wing of the house (perhaps around the back or to the side). Obviously this will only work if the orientation and pitch are right, but the result away from the front of the house is worth the effort of exploring the possibility. 

This V-shaped eco house includes a single strip of solar panels along the roof of one of the wings’ internal-facing slopes. These, together with an air source heat pump, drive the underfloor heating throughout.

Still have some concerns about solar panels? We help dispel 12 myths about solar so that you can put your worries to bed.

While log burner ventilation might not be something you have given a huge amount of thought to, it is actually a really important element when it comes to the installation and ongoing maintenance of your log burning stove. 

Not only do the building regulations set out certain requirements when it comes to fitting log burning stoves, but putting the right ventilation measures in place will also mean that your stove works at peak efficiency and that the air quality inside your home remains at a decent level. 

We've spoken to a selection of industry experts in order to ensure you are crystal clear on what kind of ventilation requirements you will need to consider and put in place in your home if you are fitting a wood burning stove, whether you are building a self build from scratch, renovating a dilapidated property or simply like the idea of introducing one into your existing home. 

Why is log burner ventilation necessary? 

Before we get into the nitty gritty of putting the right home ventilation measures in place within your home, it is really useful to understand why they are required.

“All stoves require a sufficient supply of air for combustion to operate correctly and to ensure a good flue draw to disperse products of combustion to outside," explains Calvin May, Head of Technical Services at HETAS. "How much air is available within a property will be fully dependent on the property’s construction, any existing ventilation openings and any home improvements undertaken to increase its air-tightness.

“Having a vent fitted as part of the installation can have a beneficial impact on indoor air quality too, as it encourages more frequent air changes, meaning stagnant air is continually being replenished with fresh air from outside."

What do the building regulations say about log burner ventilation? 

As with so many fixtures, fittings and features of our homes, in England and Wales, the installation or alteration of log burning stoves are subject to the Building Regulations. 

The Approved Documents F, J, L, G, P are all applicable and most work will be notifiable to the relevant Local Authority. When it comes to ventilation, Approved Document F is the one you need to be paying heed to. If you fail to comply, your household insurance could be affected and you may well run into difficulties should you wish to sell your house in the future too. 

"The building regulations on ventilation for stoves differ depending on the age of the house, and on what renovations may have been made on older properties," explains Chris Baines, MD of Eurostove Ltd. "If the house has air permeability of more than 5.0m3 (h.m2) and the appliance is 5kw or less, no additional air ventilation is needed."

But how do you know what ventilation requirements your particular property will need?

"Generally speaking, houses built before 1980 fall into the above category as there is enough natural ventilation, including either airbricks or fixed air trickle vents, which were part of the building regulations at the time," says Chris Baines. "However, if your property has been renovated this will probably have moved your property into the next category which is permeability of less than 5.0m3 (h.m2). This means that a new fixed vent will need to be installed along with your new stove. If you use a qualified Hetas (or equivalent) installer, they will assess your property and fit the relevant ventilation."

Any how about newly constructed homes?

"All new build homes require ventilation, for any size stove, including those under 5kW," clarifies Chris Baines. "The amount of external air needed is around 550mm3 per kW, which can easily be achieved with an airbrick or trickle vents — or an external air kit (more of which later) may be specified by the stove manufacturer. At Eurostove we like to recommend both solutions if possible."

What log burner ventilation requirements are there for new homes?

"In relatively airtight properties such as new builds, there must be an air vent permanently open to the outside," says Michael Coke, Biomass Products Development Manager at Stovax. "The size of the air vent opening is dependent on the kW output of the appliance in the room. In less airtight properties built pre-2008 that have not been renovated, the first 5kW of an appliance doesn’t require an air vent, but every kW over that requires an additional 550mm2 sized hole."

What features of new homes affect log burner ventilation?

"Modern rooms may be adversely affected by external factors, such as mechanical ventilation with heat recovery (MVHR) often used in new homes, or extractor fans in an open plan kitchen living area," explains Chris Baines. "In these cases, it can cause problems for stoves, which then need an independent air supply.

"Carbon monoxide alarms are a mandatory part of all installations, but such safeguards are not an alternative for proper healthy ventilation."

"Even a 5kw stove will need a permanent air vent if you live in a new build property or if your property has recently been upgraded to a modern standard," says Calvin May. "It’s important to note that the amount of ventilation required will increase dependent on the kW output of the log burner — the higher the kW output of the wood burner, the more air is needed."

Do renovations and period houses need ventilation for a log burner?

“Older properties with little airtightness can, in most cases, operate without a permanent air vent being installed, if the wood burner is rated below 5kW," says Calvin May. "Appliances over this output rating may still be required to have a permanent ventilator installed.

“In most cases, houses constructed after 2008 are built to a higher airtightness specification, meaning less air from outside permeates through the building fabric. However, this could also be the case with older properties which have undergone considerable air-tightness improvements, such as double/triple glazing, improved loft or cavity insulation and any other draught proofing measures.

“The general rule of thumb is these types of properties will require some form of permanent ventilator to be installed in the room containing a wood burner for it to operate effectively,” continues Calvin. 

What are direct air supply stoves?

"Some woodburning appliances have the option of an 'outside air kit' that ducts the air from outside directly to the appliance, without the need for an open vent into the room," explains Michael Coke. These are known as direct air supply stoves.

As we all know, new homes are now required to meet certain standards when it comes to their airtightness. This means that there is often not enough free air for a stove to run efficiently. As mentioned before, an airbrick can be fitted but as these also allow cold air from outside back into the room, they can often not be used when building an energy efficient home or Passivhaus.

In this case, a stove with either a partial or fully sealed system might be required — otherwise known as direct air supply stoves. These are also a great idea for anyone  worried about draughts. Combustion air is supplied directly into the stove, meaning that none of the air from inside the room is used for combustion — hence why  no colder air from outside has to be brought in to replace it. 

These stoves feature a fitting which allows them to be connected to an air duct leading to outside. These fittings are usually at the back of the stove near the base, or underneath. 

There are several different types of direct air supply stoves:

• Partial: These models only supply some of the air needed.
• Total: These, as the name implies, supply all the air required. 
• Leak sealed: These are designed to reduce any leakage and are perfect for Passivhaus homes. 

Who can advise me on my ventilation requirements?

“A HETAS Registered installer will be able to carry out a survey to establish if your property meets the necessary requirements for ventilation and optimum performance of your wood burner," says Calvin May. "There are different types of vents at different costs that you can have fitted in your property to ensure that ventilation is up to standard. HETAS lists a number of permanent ventilators as part of its approval scheme on its website."

Can you burn coal in a log burner? It is question commonly asked by those who find they have a stash of unused house coal lying around and are wondering whether they can use it up in their new wood burning stove.

However, it is important to be aware of not only the effect burning the wrong fuel in log burning stoves could have on their overall operation and performance, but also of whether or not using it could pose a health risk or be breaking any laws.

Wood burning stoves and their efficiency have been making headlines of late, but if you are amongst the many people now purchasing one in a bid to cut energy bills, it is crucial that you understand the implications of using the wrong kind of fuel. 

In this quick guide, we take a look at which types of fuel you can use in a log burner, as well as which woods are best to burn for maximum heat output and efficiency. 

Can you burn coal in a log burner?

The simple answer is no, do not use house coal in a log burner.

There are several reasons why people think about burning coal in a log burner. Perhaps you have inherited a stock of coal from the previous owners of a house or still have some knocking around from before you invested in your new wood burning stove.

However, it really is a rather bad idea to start shovelling coal into your log burning stove — the clue is in the name and this is , in fact, something you should avoid doing at all costs.

"There are two main types of stove; multi-fuel stoves and wood burning stoves," explains Erika Malkin of Stove Industry Alliance. "You can burn both wood logs and smokeless mineral fuels on a multi-fuel stove, but only wood logs on a wood burning stove."

It's also worth mentioning as a safety point that you should never burn charcoal - very different to coal - in a log burner, multi-fuel stove or any indoor fireplace as it is toxic and releases carbon monoxide as it burns. It is only suitable for using in an outdoor BBQ.

Why can't you burn coal in a log burner?

One of the main reasons why it can be dangerous and detrimental to your log burner to burn coal is because coal gets incredibly hot and in a stove not intended for coal, this could pose a real problem. 

"We strongly advise against burning coal in a wood burner," says Chris Baines, MD at Eurostove Ltd. "If the wood burner is a modern one, with a catalyser, the coal will corrode it over time. As well as this, burning coal requires primary air, coming up from below the grate, whereas wood burning stoves use secondary air which comes down from above, so the fire will not burn as well."

In order to burn coal, the stove you choose will need to feature a vented grate to allow it to take in air from beneath — multi-fuel stoves have this kind of grate. Although it is true that some wood burning stoves also have grates, it does not mean they will be the right type to take coal. 

"Dedicated woodburners are made for exactly that — to burn wood," states Michael Coke, Biomass Products Development Manager at Stovax. " to burn wood. Multi-fuel appliances include a grate, allowing you to riddle the ash, where it can drop into an ash tray integrated within the stove. On the other hand, wood burns best on a bed of ash — hence this will be incorporated into the stove’s design. 

"Additionally, today’s log burners must adhere to Ecodesign requirements for reduced emissions, so it is essential to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for getting the most from your appliance, including burning high quality fuel."

All of which begs the question, why would you want to burn coal? Burning wet wood or coal emits a pollutant called fine particulate matter (PM2.5), which can be inhaled and absorbed by the body, damaging your lungs and other organs. The fumes can also damage your stove. 

Can I burn coal in a multi-fuel stove?

Although people do burn coal on multi-fuel stoves it is not something now recommended by the majority of stove companies. 

Coal, even house coal, releases large amounts of thick, volatile smoke when it burns, filling up the flue — in fact this smoke can catch alight when it reaches a high temperature. Cracked flue liners and warped grates are just a couple of the issues this can cause. 

It is far better (and safer) to use a smokeless fuel instead in your multi-fuel stove — anthracite and other smokeless briquettes are both good options, providing they are HETAS or DEFRA approved. This means that it is certified for being both safe to use and produces low enough emissions to be burnt in a smoke control zone.

"If by coal, we are talking about traditional house coal, then this form of bituminous coal is highly polluting and is actually not permitted to be burnt in smoke control zones — usually urban areas like towns and cities," says Michael Coke. "Should you wish to burn an alternative to wood, today’s multi-fuel stoves and fires are designed to burn approved smokeless fuels, such as anthracite. These look very much like coals, but are approved by DEFRA to be burnt, and have a low sulphur content. Check the online directory to find out if you are in a smokeless zone: https://uk-air.defra.gov.uk/data/sca/"

Is it still legal to burn coal?

There have been recent changes in legislation when it comes to the use of coal in England. 

"Since 1st May 2021 sales of bagged traditional house coal in volumes under two cubic meters have been unlawful," explains Erika Malkin. "Traditional house coal can still be purchased from an Approved Coal Merchant but from 1st May 2023 it will no longer be available from them either.

"Manufactured solid fuel will still be available post-1st May 2023 from retail outlets and coal merchants in England."

What is the best wood for log burners?

So, now we know that you should most certainly not be burning coal in your log burner, just what is the best wood to burn in order to ensure your beautiful log burner ideas can be fully realised?

"When choosing wood fuel, always look for the Ready to Burn certification label, or if seasoning wood logs yourself invest in a moisture meter and aim to reduce the moisture content to 20% before burning," says Erika Malkin.

“Wood should have a maximum moisture content of 20%," confirms Chris Baines. "This can be achieved by buying pre-seasoned, or kiln dried wood. A less expensive way would be to buy unseasoned wood, and keep it for approximately 18 months to season it yourself. We recommend a moisture meter to check the moisture content if you buy unseasoned wood.”

Is firewood more expensive than coal?

Although firewood is still cheaper than house coal, given that coal is being phased out, it is perhaps not really an issue. It is also worth bearing in mind that firewood is cheaper than many other fuel types, including electricity. 

According to Direct Stoves, a log burning stove costs around a third of the price of electric heating and approximately 13% less than gas central heating for the average household — perhaps one reason why many people are now asking how to replace a gas fire with a wood burner.

"Kiln dried wood logs are currently retailing for between £159 - £190 per cubic meter loose fill," says Erika Malkin. "You can expect to use between 3.5 cubic meters of wood logs between October to April when using your stove in the evening and at weekends."

An energy saving boiler challenge is encouraging households to make a simple boiler change this winter and save 9% on your gas bill. 

Nesta, a UK innovation charity, has set up the challenge to help the millions of households in the UK that own combi boilers. The challenge involves lowering your boiler’s flow temperature to ensure it is working efficiently. 

A typical annual household bill is now £2,500 following the government’s Energy Price Guarantee kicking in this month, amid soaring energy price rises, and this is one of many energy saving tips that could have an impact on your energy bills.

Here’s how to get involved in the challenge and learn why lowering your boiler’s flow temperature could have such a big impact. 

What is the energy saving boiler challenge?

Temperatures are dropping and while the risk of blackouts remains unlikely according to National Grid, the electricity system operator for the UK has confirmed it is preparing for possible energy shortages this winter. 

To help households use less energy than they need to, Nesta is advocating combi boiler owners to lower the flow temperature to 60°C to ensure their boiler runs as efficiently as possible.  

“The average household could currently save around £112 per year on their heating bill by lowering their boiler flow temperature. But many people aren’t aware they can change their boiler settings,” Nesta says.  

Nesta, which is in partnership with energy suppliers such as EDF, Octopus Energy, E.ON Next and Energy UK, claims that if 10 million households with a combi boiler lower their flow temperature to 60°C then this will cut £1bn from UK energy bills and save 1.7 million tonnes of carbon. 

Earlier this year Nesta launched a one-year research project investigating the impact of lowering flow temperatures to 54°C or lower, which will conclude in January 2023.

How does lowering the flow temperature work?

The message to lower your boiler's temperature is not new. In 2020 a campaign called #KillaKilowatt was launched by engineer Michael Walsh, founder of Walsh and Son Ltd, who said making simple changes to the way our boilers work could have an important benefit.

The message of the campaign was simple: drop the temperature flow on your condensing combi boiler (a boiler that produces your heating and hot water) to 60°C. This refers to the temperature of the water flowing out of the boiler to your radiators. 

Heating engineers and plumbers who joined the campaign reported that most factory-made boilers have the temperature flow set around 75°C, which means the return temperatures are too high to condense as efficiently.

Combi boilers work best when their flow temperature is set to 60°C, Nesta says, because they are more readily able to condense water vapour and recover latent heat from this vapourisation, which would otherwise have been lost up the flue. This should not have any comfort issues for homeowners, either. 

David Stanley, Technical Operations Manager at Intergas Boilers, says: “You should set the flow temperature according to the system design; ideally you need the system return temperature to be lower than the flue gas temperature dew point.

“By setting the flow temperature too high you reduce the chances of the return water being lower than the dew point. It’s preferable to set the flow temperature as low as possible without compromising the comfort level within the property.”

In October 2021, a report by the Heating and Hot Water Council found that lowering flow temperatures on condensing combi boilers could save homeowners around 6-8% on their gas bill.

How to lower a boiler's flow temperature yourself

You will need to own a combi boiler in order to lower the flow temperature, and it is not recommended to reduce your boiler flow temperature if you have a water tank.

You can follow Nesta’s step-by-step guide on its Money Saving Boiler Challenge page to do this yourself. Alternatively you can check your boiler manual to learn how to correctly change the flow temperature. 

If you are at all unsure, don't just twist any knobs on your boiler, contact an engineer or a plumber or someone who does know a bit about boilers to help locate the right knob or button

How else can you boost your heating efficiency?

Nathan James Van Gambling, an engineer and host of the BetaTalk podcast who has advocated for the #KillaKilowatt campaign, recommends the following straightforward steps to assessing how efficiently your heating system is working:

• Review your boiler’s weather compensation - this is a communication system between your boiler and an outside temperature sensor which tells the boiler to adjust the temperature of radiators to ensure you are not wasting heat, however, not all boilers have this system
• Balance your radiators - you can learn how to balance your radiators on a DIY basis, which helps to make sure there’s an even distribution of heated water making its way to each of the radiators in your house.

The question of which is the best flooring for underfloor heating is now a common one, given that underfloor heating (UFH) is now one of the most popular ways to heat a home.

Underfloor heating not only offers a comfortable, even heat, but it is also a really efficient method of warming a house. It is well suited to many forms of renewable technology too, such as heat pumps — plus it keeps walls clear of radiators making furniture layout easier. 

Many people considering UFH, or already living with it, are concerned that their choice of flooring will be negatively affected by UFH but this is often not the case at all. 

Our guide talks you through the best flooring for underfloor heating, explaining any issues you should be aware of to ensure your floor and heating work in perfect harmony. 

How to Choose the Best Flooring for Underfloor Heating

The good news here is that there are actually only a small number of types of flooring that aren't suitable for use with underfloor heating. However, that said, some flooring materials work better than others.

"The best flooring for underfloor heating is one that efficiently transfers heat from the UFH to the surface of the floor," explains Jo Snell, Self-Build Manager at Nu-Heat. "Hard surfaces like stone or ceramic tiles, or engineered wood, offer the best heat transfer as they are the most thermally conductive, but many other options work well."

Another consideration to bear in mind is the type of UFH you have — certain flooring types need special consideration when it comes to electric underfloor heating but are fine for use with wet systems. 

Solid Wood Flooring and Underfloor Heating 

Solid wood flooring is a beautiful choice, offering warmth and character yet, like so many natural materials, it is not without with its quirks.

When it comes to using wooden flooring with underfloor heating, bear in mind that, unlike engineered products, solid timber is prone to movement when exposed to changes in moisture and temperatures levels and can warp and twist, making it a dubious choice for use with UFH.

"While wooden floors are suitable for underfloor heating, we always recommend using engineered wood for your wooden flooring with a UFH system," says Nu-Heat's Jo Snell. "Engineered wood gives the same effect as solid hardwood but with the added benefits of strength and durability once it is laid."

If you have your heart set on a solid wooden floor, bear in mind that:

• Solid wood can distort when used over UFH.
• If you want to use it, select a kiln-dried timber with a moisture content of between 6-9%.
• Store the timber in a dry place to acclimatise it and use a floor temperature sensor to detect overheating.
• Aim to use boards of 18mm in width or less. 

Laying Engineered Wood Flooring Over Underfloor Heating

When it comes to UFH and wooden floors, engineered wood flooring is the best choice. Because it is made up of layers of timber, with a solid veneer, it is far more stable than solid wooden boards. 

"We recommend using engineered wood floorboards with our underfloor heating systems due to their strong structural design," says Jo Snell. "The recommended board width of the engineered wood when going over underfloor heating is 150mm."

But what about timber parquet flooring and underfloor heating?

"For parquet flooring over underfloor heating, solid wood is not recommended and only engineered timber parquet should be used," says Jo. 

Although engineered flooring is a great match for underfloor heating, there are still a few considerations to bear in mind:

• An expansion gap of around 15mm should be left around the perimeter of the room to allow the floor to expand and contract.  
• When heating up your UFH system for the first time, it’s crucial that this is done slowly to avoid 'shocking' the timber floor.
• Timber floors must be allowed to acclimatise in the property prior to installation to avoid the timber expanding or contracting after fitting.
• Ask your flooring supplier for the recommended maximum base/surface temperature of the timber and pass this information on to your UFH installer.

Stone Flooring and Underfloor Heating

Stone flooring is beautiful and offers a wealth of natural beauty to the home — yet it can be cold underfloor. Happily, stone floors are perfect for use with underfloor heating — in fact, according to Warmup, the best type of flooring to use with underfloor heating is tile and stone. 

This is mainly down to stone flooring's high heat conductivity and excellent heat retention, meaning stone tiles warm up quickly and stay warm for longer than many other flooring materials.

Pretty much all stone flooring can be used over UFH — with marble being one of the best types for thermal conductivity.

Points to note include:

• Thicker stone tiles will take slightly longer to heat up than their thinner counterparts (Warmup recommend a maximum thickness of 20cm.)
• A decoupling membrane and flexible adhesive should be used when tiles are laid to reduce the risk of any hairline expansion cracks appearing.
• Always use insulation when laying on a concrete subfloor.

Using Ceramic and Porcelain Tiles With Underfloor Heating

As with stone flooring, floor tiles made from ceramic and porcelain are also brilliant for use over underfloor heating. 

"Porcelain and ceramic tiles are good flooring materials to use with underfloor heating and present a more affordable option than natural stone," says Jo Snell. "Tiles tend to conduct heat well, meaning that heat is transferred easily to the tiles, warming the room quickly. They are also good at retaining heat, therefore helping to improve the overall efficiency of your underfloor heating system."

Points of note when laying ceramic or porcelain tiles over UFH include:

• The subfloor must be completely level and stable.
• Always use a decoupling membrane to prevent tiles cracking due to movement.

Using Vinyl and Lino Over Underfloor Heating

There is often a little confusion surrounding the use of vinyl and LVT flooring over underfloor heating, but rest assured, you can combine the two — providing you take a couple of precautions, namely keeping an eye on the maximum floor surface temperature. 

"The thin nature of vinyl and lino flooring makes it ideal for underfloor heating as the heat can permeate the floor more easily in order to heat the room," says Jo Snell. "However, always check the manufacturer’s recommended maximum floor surface temperature to ensure that the covering is suitable for use with underfloor heating.

"Most manufacturers state 27°C, which is more than adequate in most situations. A floor temperature sensor should be fitted to limit the heat output from the floor."

Ignoring maximum surface temperatures can result in a faded floor or damage. 

When it comes to using electric underfloor heating with vinyl and lino, it is often recommended that there should be a self-levelling compound or screed laid on top of the heating mat. It is crucial to check with your flooring supplier for the product's compatibility with electric UFH as different products have different requirements. 

Special considerations include: 

• Before installing vinyl over your UFH system, you need to make sure that the area is completely dry — this is particularly important with newly laid concrete subfloors.
• After you have fitted your vinyl or lino flooring, the UFH should not be turned on for at least 48 hours in order for the adhesive to fully dry.
• UFH should be turned off for 48 hours prior to the installation of vinyl and lino.
• Check that the adhesive used can withstand the temperature of the underfloor heating (usually a maximum of 27˚C).

Polished Concrete and Underfloor Heating

Polished concrete can work really well with underfloor heating, but there are a couple of things to bear in mind if this is an idea that takes your fancy. 

On the plus side, concrete has a high thermal mass so it will retain and distribute heat really well.

However, on the downside, like some other flooring materials, it can crack if subjected to sudden changes in temperature, so care needs to be taken when it comes to leaving the concrete to cure and also in turning the UFH system on. 

In order for your concrete floor and UFH system to work well together you should: 

• Allow your concrete floor to fully cure after the UFH system is laid and the concrete installed.
• Turn the water temperature of your UFH up by just 1˚C a day until it gets to temperature — many professionals advise a maximum water temp of 30˚C.

Poured Resin Floors Over Underfloor Heating

Poured resin is becoming increasingly popular in the UK as it can be poured over the entire floor for a seamless, easy-to-clean finish — it can even be re-sanded and sealed as and when required. Poured resin is also a great match for underfloor heating. 

"A polished screed floor finish is an ideal scenario for UFH, offering a good heat transfer that is harder to achieve with traditional floor coverings such as carpet or engineered wood which add an insulative layer.

"In a standard new build property, the UFH will be set within the screed subfloor. There is no additional preparation required before laying any polished screed layer other than following those recommended by the manufacturer."

So, what are the considerations when using a poured resin over UFH?

• In retrofit situations, you will need to use a low profile UFH system in conjunction with a self-levelling compound for a nice level finish.
• A layer of glass fibre render mesh is also often a good idea to reduce the risk of any stress fractures in the self-levelling compound.

Using a Laminate Flooring Over Underfloor Heating

Laminate is a cost-effective floor covering that is available in a range of finishes and textures — but can it be used over underfloor heating?

"One particular benefit of laminate is that it is not as prone to warping under changes in temperature when laid over underfloor heating," says Jo Snell. "Laminate is much more resistant to temperature changes and as a result will not warp or change shape at higher temperatures."

Laminate can be used with both electric and wet underfloor heating systems.

Before installing a laminate floor over underfloor heating, bear in mind: 

• You should leave a 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room when laying to avoid ‘buckling’.
• The recommended maximum temperature that a laminate floor should be heated to is 27˚C to avoid damage. 
• Thick laminate flooring can be slow to heat up — aim for no thicker than 18mm.
• The floor should be heated up slowly when using your UFH for the first time (around 5˚C a day).

Laying Carpet Over Underfloor Heating

Despite the popularity of hard flooring types, such as wood and tile, carpet remains a great option for rooms where an extra level of comfort underfoot is required — such as in bedrooms and living rooms. 

"While carpet is a suitable choice of floor covering for underfloor heating, there are certain types of carpet that should be avoided," advises Jo Snell. "If a carpet is too thick, the floor will be too well insulated for you to feel the benefit of your UFH system in the room. Certain carpet backings can also affect the ability for heat to travel through the carpet into your room.

"Carpets with hessian backing rather than rubber, are recommended for use with UFH systems. Although they tend to be more expensive, the hessian allows heat to travel through the carpet whereas rubber acts as an insulator.

"When looking at tog ratings, you need to take into account the rating of both the carpet and the carpet underlay. The combined value of the carpet and underlay should not exceed 2.5 tog, and preferably less than 1.5 tog for systems with a heat pump."

Other considerations for those pairing a carpet floor with underfloor heating are: 

• The thicker your carpet, the less efficient your underfloor system will be.
• When it comes to underlay, steer clear of felt and polyurethane as they can affect heat transfer.

You may well be familiar with the term zoning in interior design, but when it comes to bathroom zones, there's an additional all-to-important reason why they matter so much.

As well as defining the spaces where your sanitaryware is positioned, each zone relates to an IP rating for electrical items. Place the wrongly rated fitting in the incorrect zone and you will potentially compromise the safety of your bathroom design.

But, it's not as complicated as it might sound. Follow our easy-to-understand guide to bathroom zones and making the right choices when choosing electrical fittings for your new bathroom will be much easier than you think.

What is an IP rating?

Once you understand what and IP rating is, it's easier to appreciate why certain bathroom zones are limited to specific IP ratings.

“An IP rating (Ingress Protection) is a simple guide that tells you how well a lighting fixture is protected against dust and moisture," explains Mara Rypacek Miller, founder of Industville.

"The rating is presented as a two-digit code – the first digit refers to the level of protection against solid objects such as dust, and the second digit indicates the level of resistance against water," she expands.

The first digit can range from between 0 and 6, while the second will be between 0 and 8. The digit 0 indicates no protection at all, while the higher numbers show that the fittings are pretty failsafe – so if you see a light with IP65 you know it offers the highest protection.

"Bathrooms are naturally humid spaces, so choosing the right IP rating is really important not just for safety, but for peace of mind too," adds James Kendall, operations director at KES Lighting & Home.

Shop bathroom lighting by IP rating

How are bathrooms zoned?

When it comes to electrical safety in bathrooms, all different bathroom ideas can be divided into zones and it's the proximity of light to water that defines how they are zoned.

In each of these zones, any electrical appliances installed will need to have a certain IP Rating to ensure they are safe to use in that particular space.

The bathroom zones are as follows, explains James Kendall.

• Zone 0: The area inside the bath or shower itself, where fittings are fully exposed to water. This applies to shower enclosures and wet rooms too
• Zone 1: The area directly above the bath or shower, up to around two and a quarter metres high
• Zone 2: This covers the area around the bath, shower and basin, usually within about 60 centimetres
• Zone 3 (also referred to as ‘Outside Zones’): These are basically any areas that lie outside Zones 0, 1 and 2 and where no water jets will be used

Which IP ratings are suitable in each different zone?

So when it comes to designing your bathroom lighting, what IP rated items can you use in each zone?

"As zone 1 includes areas directly exposed to water, such as inside a walk-in shower or above a bath, only IP-65 rated fixtures should be used in this zone, as they provide full protection against dust and water projected from a nozzle, explains Mara Rypacek Miller. "This ensures safety and durability, even in high-moisture environments.

"Lighting in zone 2 must be at least IP-44 rated, offering protection against solid objects and water sprayed from all directions," she expands.

"As zone 3 refers to areas outside zone 1 and 2, where there is no direct water exposure IP-20 rated fixtures can be used in this zone," she notes, "as they protect against solid objects but offer no protection against moisture."

It is also worth noting that in areas of the bathroom where you might be using jets of water (such as from the shower head) to clean for example, it is also best to stick to fittings with a rating of at least IP65.

"IP-44 ratings can also be more suitable for zone 3," adds James Kendall, "as bathrooms, particularly busy family bathrooms can be humid environments and increasing the IP rating will help fittings last longer."

Which type of light is best for each bathroom zone

Even though your bathroom layout will be focused around the placement of your sanitaryware, in order to avoid making bathroom layout mistakes, you will also need to think about the type of lighting you need in each bathroom zone to ensure the space functions as you need it to.

But, with IP ratings impacting the lights you can choose, what do our experts say is the best bathroom lighting for each different zone?

“When choosing lighting for bathroom zones, it’s important to balance functionality with ambience," advises Mara Rypacek Miller.

"Recessed downlights are ideal for zones 1 and 2 as they’re discreet, practical and available with suitable IP ratings," suggests James Kendall.

"In zone 2, task lighting also plays a key role," adds Mara, "ensuring visibility for grooming tasks, makeup application and shaving. Wall lights are ideal in this area but avoid putting them directly above mirrors, instead place on either side at eye-level to reduce shadows and glare.

"Zone 3 offers greater flexibility however," she notes, "and is ideal for introducing decorative lighting. Overhead fixtures such as pendants or ceiling lights can be used safely away from the shower or bath."

"It's this combination of task, ambient and decorative lighting that will ensure a well-lit space for everyday tasks, alongside soft and ambient options to create a deeply relaxing atmosphere,” she concludes.

You can find a great range of bathroom lighting online at stores such as BHS, John Lewis and Lighting Direct.

It's also important to remember that regardless of the size of your washroom, bathroom lighting regulations will apply. Steering clear of these bathroom lighting mistakes is also a must for a space that is safe, stylish and practical.

Owning one of the best portable air conditioners is a necessity during the warm summer weather. Not only will they help you keep cool, but because they're portable you can easily move them from room to room, and they're generally cheaper than built-in or split systems. 

Whether you need to cool your home office, living room or bedroom, there are portable air conditioners which prevent overheating and provide the long-term cooling efficiency you require. 

Most models will also dehumidify the air and feature impressive energy efficiency, so you won't see a large increase in your energy bills. 

We've assessed the best portable air conditioners available now, which can improve the air quality in your home and keep your home cool. Before you look at the best models on the market, make sure you find out how does a portable air conditioning unit work to check it's right for you.

Best Portable Air Conditioners

A 3-in-1 unit comprising an air conditioner, fan and dehumidifier, the electriQ Ecosilent is essentially like buying three appliances for the price of one. 

It's our top pick for bedroom use because it doesn't take up too much room, cools room sizes up to 20sqm and is super quiet - achieved through a 5-speed DC fan.

It also comes with a Sleep Mode, which turns off operation lights and reduces the fan speed to its quietest setting. And the Smart Cooling Mode lets you adjust the fan speed based on the amount of cooling required for the set temperature. 

It's energy efficient too - it has an A energy rating which means it will cost you less than 12 pence per hour to run. Overall it's very good value for money.

The first thing you may notice about the Delonghi Pinguino PACEX100 Silent is its somewhat surprisingly stylish design (at least compared to the other air con units on this list), sporting a white front with black display inlay. But there's more to this machine than meets the eye. 

It's incredibly energy efficient, with an A++ energy rating (the highest on this list) that won't add significantly to your energy costs. This is because the PAC EX100 Silent uses a natural high efficiency gas, propane R290, which releases no greenhouse emissions.

It's easy to use too, enhanced by an intuitive frontal LED display which gives clear and consistent updates on room temperature. It's great for living spaces and other similar room sizes up to 23sqm.

It's on the premium end of the price scale, but this is a high-quality machine that might just be worth the investment. However, while it's certainly quieter than other machines, it's still notably noisier than the 'silent' product title suggests. 

If you only need a portable air conditioner for personal use, then the JML Chillmax Air is a must-have.

Available for under £50, this small desktop-size unit offers much more than a regular fan. It is equipped with an evaporator that uses water from a 610ml reservoir to create a chilled, moist breeze from several feet away. One fill lasts around 10 hours. 

The antimicrobial sponge filter is resistant to mould and mildew, and you can put it in the dishwasher to clean and sterilise. You could be using this for years with minimal fuss. 

It has a built-in soft-glow LED light for use as a night light. 

The AEG Chillflex Pro is one of the better premium machines around, providing air coverage of room sizes up to 30sqm, making it effective at cooling larger rooms. 

There are three settings to choose from to help you find the ideal conditions for your room, and it runs on sustainable gas for improved energy efficiency (it has an A rating). It also has a dehumidifier mode to remove damp and excess moisture. 

Handily, you can control it via remote control too, so there's no need to leave the comfort of your couch to adjust the settings. And the side handles and wheels make for easy movement and added convenience when you need store it away in the winter.

It's pricey, however, and while this is nitpicking, for the money you might expect slightly wider room cooling coverage. 

The EcoAir Apollo is great for cooling a home office or conservatory, and it comes with dehumidify and sleep modes, three fan speeds and a sleep function. But what sets it apart from the others on this list is that it can also be used as a heater in the winter, making it a very worthwhile investment.

It's advertised as being able to cool down rooms up to 22sqm, although the Amazon blurb suggests it can even be used in rooms up to 30sqm. While its 12,000 BTU (the joint-highest on this list), suggests that this may be possible, it might be better to opt for the AEG Chillflex Pro if you're actively searching for a system to heat larger rooms.

It can be controlled by remote control, and there's a top-mounted LED display which is easy to use. It also offers an air filtration system which improves air quality by reducing dust particles. 

How to Buy The Best Portable Air Conditioner

Consider these factors before you commit to a purchase, as this will help to ensure you buy the best portable air conditioner for your home. 

Room size

Look out for the BTU (this stands for British Thermal Units) of an air con system, as it will tell you how much cool air it will emit. It is a useful way of working out whether or not a particular air conditioner is the right size for your room. 

As a reference point, a machine with 10,000 BTU will cool a room of around 41sqm while a 5,000 BTU unit is suitable for a 14sqm room.

Noise

Portable AC units can be noisy, although not as noisy as built-in machines, but if you want your air con unit to cool your bedroom at night, for example, then you'll want your machine to be quiet. 

Units which generate more than 60dB will be hard to sleep next to. The quieter units generally tend to generate less than 55dB even on the highest speed setting. 

Energy use

The higher a unit's energy efficiency, the less you'll have to pay for using it. Keep a look out for energy ratings and whether a machine runs on sustainable, environmentally-friendly gases to help ensure you find a suitably efficient machine.

How to Set up a Portable Air Conditioner 

Most portable air conditioners tend to come with an installation kit for a fast set-up, and they're often ready to use straight out of the packaging. 

You'll need to set the unit up with the exhaust hose in the correct position, and ideally the exhaust hose should be vented, either through window (the easiest option) or through a hole in the wall or ceiling.

They're not the easiest pieces of kit to install though, especially if you're looking to vent through a wall, but most professional engineers will be able to assist with this.

How to Look After Your Portable Air Conditioner

To ensure your machine's longevity it's advised to empty the water collected inside a bucket in the machine every few weeks. This builds up because air conditioners typically produce water when cooling down a room. 

It's also important to regularly clean the filters, which pick up a lot of microfibres and dust and can get stuck in the unit. If the filters are too clogged, the unit won't cool as efficiently. 

How We're Testing the Best Portable Air Conditioners

There's a lot to consider when buying one of the best portable air conditioners, and the Homebuilding & Renovating team is getting hands-on experience with the products in this buying guide to help you feel confident in choosing the right product for you. 

In our ongoing independent reviews we are testing the cooling power and how a model fares in varying room sizes to gauge each product’s efficacy, and assessing key factors including minimum noise level and value for money. We’re also reviewing everything in-between from included features, such as remote controls, to which households will most benefit from buying a specific portable air conditioner. 

Our team is passionate about DIY and home improvement (which probably won’t be a surprise) so we already have detailed knowledge about the brands that make these products. Moreover, we have taken into account user reviews when compiling this buying guide, and gleaned key information from our sister sites such as Real Homes and Ideal Home to help you find the best portable air conditioner for your home.

When exactly does a utility room need an extractor fan — and why? It is a common question amongst those self building, renovating and remodelling. As with so many things that relate to the Building Regulations, it can be hard to unravel the precise rules. 

However, there is no need to worry — our guide answers this oft asked question in an easy-to-understand way and gives you all your options, no matter what size or shape your utility room and whichever way you intend to use it. 

When Does a Utility Room Need an Extractor Fan?

The simple answer to this is: pretty much all the time. However, there might be some exceptions depending on your definition of a utility room. 

Here, it is important not to confuse utility rooms with boot rooms as the two are actually quite different. A boot room is generally used for the storage of outerwear and footwear, as well as other household items needing a home. It tends to be located between the entrance of a house and the main living areas — providing something akin to a decompression area.

Utility rooms, on the other hand, tend to be used for everyday household tasks that are best kept out of the kitchen and living rooms, such as laundry.

According to the Building Regulations, a utility room is "a room containing a sink or other feature or equipment that may reasonably be expected to produce significant quantities of water vapour."

Whatever your utility room ideas, if the room will contain a sink, washing machine, tumble dryer, dishwasher or any other kind of appliance that will emit moisture, then it will need to comply with the regulations relating to ventilation — namely Approved Document F. 

So, to answer the question 'does a utility room need an extractor fan?' Yes. 

"Extract ventilation to the outside should be provided in all of the following spaces: a. Kitchens. b. Utility rooms. c. Bathrooms. d. Sanitary accommodation." state the Building Regulations.

Utility Room Ventilation Requirements

Every room in your house should have adequate ventilation to ensure the good health of its occupants. However, some rooms can benefit from good extraction more than others. Spaces that produce a lot of water vapour, such as kitchens, bathrooms and, of course, utility rooms, have very particular needs to ensure not only that they are pleasant places to be, but also that a moisture build up will not end up causing issues such as condensation and damp.

There are several main home ventilation systems, including: 

• Purge ventilation: Purge ventilation is basically a fancy term for opening a window. Typically, the window opening should have an area of at least 1/20th of the floor area of the room it is in. 
• Whole building ventilation: Also referred to as 'trickle ventilation' this is achieved by trickle vents within the heads of windows, or similar methods such as airbricks. 
• Extract ventilation: This is a method of controlled ventilation. Extractor fans are one of the most common and cost effective ways to provide this type of ventilation, although whole house mechanical ventilation with heat recovery (MVHR) has become the norm for most self build projects these days. 

Utility Room Extractor Fans: Which Should I Fit?

Extract ventilation might be a requirement in a utility room, but which extractor fan should you choose? The best kitchen extractor fans, won't necessarily be right for your utility room, for example. 

In order to comply with the Building Regs in your new utility room, it is important to note the following:  

• Extract ventilation can be intermittent or continuous.
• Your extractor fan should be installed as high as is practicable in the room — and a maximum of 400mm below the ceiling.
• Minimum intermitted operation extract systems (in litres per second) are 30l/s in a utility room.
• Minimum extract ventilation rates for continuous extract systems are 8l/s.

So there you have it. If you want a utility room in your home then you will need to provide extract ventilation, just as you would in a kitchen or bathroom. 

Heating a conservatory is not as easy as you might think. Conservatories have an awful lot of glass, great for that outdoor-feel indoors, but a relatively poor insulator on the whole. So much glass, therefore, makes the conservatory difficult to heat. 

A quality conservatory roof replacement should keep as much heat as possible inside. But what are the best ways to get heat into your conservatory in the first place?

We talk about how heating a conservatory actually works, from possible options, costs and benefits, to the planning consent and/or building regulations you may encounter during the actual process.

Why Does Heating a Conservatory Matter?

A conservatory requires relatively large investment from you as a homeowner. If the benefits of that investment are to be fully realised, then there will be times in the year when you need sufficient heating. 

It all comes down to being comfortable while enjoying the views and the light, airy feel a conservatory provides. 

An unheated conservatory will have a very low temperature in winter, and even if there is a thermal break between the conservatory and the house, it is likely to make the room adjacent to the conservatory uncomfortably cool. 

This, in turn, negatively impacts the thermal efficiency of the house as a whole, with the heating system always trying to warm up that colder room.

Why heat a conservatory? Because an unheated conservatory is an unfinished room that will never live up to its full potential.

What Are the Options for Heating a Conservatory?

A conservatory will have the same heating options as any other room in your house, but its much poorer thermal efficiency and higher heat demand means that some are better than others for this particular type of room. 

In order of preference they are:

1. Solar heat

The whole point of a conservatory is to allow sunlight in, which brings heat with it. Being mostly glass means that the room can be too hot in summer and too cold in winter. If we can learn to control the sunlight, though, then passive solar heat will keep the conservatory warm for six to eight months of the year. 

Insulating a conservatory roof will be needed, along with thermal blinds or curtains for winter. Blinds, awnings or a pergola with deciduous planting can help to provide shade in summer. 

Ideally there will also be some thermal mass – in the form of masonry wall or floor – to store heat throughout the day and release it again in the evening.

2. Air-to-Air Heat pump

Essentially an air conditioning unit that can be reversed to provide heat. Relatively low capital cost (£1,500 to £3,000 plus installation) and running cost is typically reasonable. 

Do keep in mind that they run on electricity, and what will happen to the price of electricity in the near or distant future is anyone’s guess. 

3. Wood burner

Perhaps surprisingly, one of the best places for a wood burner in the modern home would be the conservatory. A 5m x 4m conservatory will need around 3kW of heat in winter, well within the capability of most log burning stoves. 

Extending your home central heating system means that the conservatory is heated at predetermined times, rather than only when it is occupied. A wood burner can do that kind of heat on demand, which, together with low capital and running costs, make it an attractive option. 

Bear in mind that you will need to install a chimney or flue.

4. Underfloor heating (UFH)

Electric UFH is easy to install in new build or (to some extent) existing conservatories and relatively cheap (less than £1,000), but it can also be very expensive to run. 

Wet UFH would be an extension of your home's central heating system. This is very difficult, and relatively expensive to install for existing conservatories. But running costs are comparatively low. And it's the one system most likely to provide controllable comfort. 

5. Skirting radiators

These are essentially skirting-board-sized radiators that run round the room where the skirting boards should be. 

Pros and cons are virtually the same as UFH, with the exception that this is a really good option for existing conservatories. 

6. Trench radiators 

Like skirting radiators, but placed in a trench around the perimeter of the room. Pros and cons as with UFH, except installation cost is relatively high, due to the trench, which also means it only really suits new build conservatories. 

7. Plug-in electric radiators

Options such as oil-filled radiators and fan heaters can provide a quick burst of heat on cold days. Typically inexpensive to buy, the best conservatory heaters will deliver instant heat. However, bear in mind this option is perhaps better suited for using this room for short periods.

What is the Best Way to Heat a Conservatory?

With existing conservatories, first ensure that the insulation is there. Then, think about incorporating an air-to-air heat pump or perhaps even a wood burner into the space itself for extra warmth. 

Skirting heaters would also be an option (if your existing boiler is up to the job), but these could be expensive. If you intend to go down this route, remember to allocate enough budget for product and installation fees.

What Is the Best Option for Heating a New Conservatory?

If your plan is to build a new conservatory from scratch, you may wish to think about sun room ideas first. That is, creating a room with lots of glazing but with a solid, insulated roof. 

This will significantly reduce heat demand and improve comfort levels, and using the same heating system as in the house would be fine for this project. 

How Much Will Heating a Conservatory Cost?

The cost of heating a conservatory will depend on various factors — namely, how big the conservatory is, how much glass it has, if there is a polycarbonate roof, and how old the conservatory is (thermal resistance of double glazing has improved considerably over the years). 

A 5m x 4m conservatory with a plastic roof needs around 2,800kWh of heat each year. A good, modern gas boiler will therefore cost around £170 per year (irrespective of whether that is through UFH or radiators), a heat pump around £150 and logs around £140. Electric UFH will cost around £500 per year. 

Is It Worth Heating a Conservatory?

This depends on whether you want to use your conservatory in winter.

There are some people who close up their conservatories in autumn, with doors, conservatory roof blinds and a thermal curtain between the house and this room, and don’t open them again until spring. 

However, others would argue that the whole point of having a conservatory to begin with is using it whenever possible. Ergo, heating a conservatory will help make the space more accessible even when the weather turns cooler.

Heating a Conservatory: What are Planning Rules and Building Regulations?

Planning permission is not required for any work on a conservatory, as long as the conservatory itself is no more than 4m high, does not cover more than half the garden and its roof ridge is no higher than the eaves of the house. 

Also, adding a heating system to that same type of conservatory does not need planning permission. However, it might need Building Regulations approval. 

Essentially, the heating system in the conservatory needs to be controlled independently from the heating system in the house. The thinking behind this is that the conservatory is likely to be far less thermally efficient than the house, and a single control system will either overheat the house or insufficiently heat the conservatory. 

If your conservatory has its own heater, that will have its own controls. If it is connected to the house heating (a radiator spurred off, say) then a programmable radiator valve will do the same job just fine. 

In these days of rocketing energy prices, an uninsulated conservatory has to be considered a really bad idea. 

If you're considering building a new conservatory think about building a sun room or orangery instead. If the conservatory is already there, the most sustainable option will be to insulate as best you can with thermal curtains or blinds and install a wood burner for added heat. 

If you have flickering lights in the house, then you have a problem. It could be something as simple as a failing bulb, or it could be something far more serious that needs immediate attention from an electrician.

Identifying the cause of the flickering lights will help you decide what to do next. If it's a new bulb you can sort yourself, but if you have a problem with your wiring, it might be time to think about rewiring your home.

Here, we reveal eight of the most common causes to help you decide if you can fix the issue yourself or call in an electrician.

1. Problem with light bulb

If you have just one isolated light flickering in the house, there could be a problem with your bulb. Most likely the bulb itself is either faulty or not screwed or clipped in properly, so make sure you check this first.

Swap out the existing bulb for a new lightbulb of the same type, ensuring that it is fitted correctly, and test whether this solves the issue. Do remember to turn off the light beforehand.

It is also important to note that some newer bulbs behave differently to their older counterparts.

Clive Holland, Fix Radio’s spokesperson and host of “The Clive Holland Show”, explains: "Years ago, the choice was GLS (General Lighting Service) which commonly looked pear- or candle-shaped and had a filament within. Occasionally, they would flicker just before they went pop.

"The 21st century, however, saw the advent of domestic LED lamps. Lightweight, with low running costs, and above all boasting up to 30,000 hours' life span – a real revolution in lighting.

"If any new lamp you buy today is flickering, it's usually faulty."

Try these to help stop flickering lights

2. Mismatched bulb and fitting

Different lightbulbs are designed to work with different fittings. Mismatches are as common now as they were decades ago, and even the best smart bulbs can be fitted wrongly.

Fix Radio’s Clive Holland explains: "In the '80s, the introduction of compact fluorescent lamps to replace the old GLS lamps was heralded as energy-saving. That was true, a 15W version replaced the old 100W old style and was said to give out the same lux (light) level.

"Problem was, to begin with, they were much bigger and heavier, and people struggled to fit them into existing fittings."

The good news is that mismatched bulbs and fittings can be easily sorted out. Simply check your fixture and replace the incompatible bulb with one that matches its specific switch. This should stop flickering lights in the house becoming a persistent problem.

3. Faulty wiring

A home with any faulty wires is more likely to have flickering lights than not. If your wiring is loose or outdated, this can lead to a phenomenon known as arcing, where the electrical current 'jumps' between gaps in the connection, creating a potential fire hazard.

Faulty wiring in the home is unsafe and should be dealt with as a matter of urgency. Be sure to contact a qualified electrician if you think flickering lights in the house are wire-related.

Tell-tale signs that you have faulty wiring are burning smells, buzzing sockets, and outlets that are hot to the touch. If you notice any of these, call an electrician as soon as possible.

4. Light switch and dimmer issues

Another potential cause of flickering lights in the house is the switches and/or dimmers. This is especially the case if and when they're paired with the wrong lightbulb type.

Fluorescent or LED bulbs are sometimes interchanged with non-compatible dimmers, resulting in a persistent flicker. What's more, conventional dimmer switches tend to only accommodate incandescent or halogen bulbs, so make sure yours correspond accordingly to avoid any blinking or flickering. Using the correct lightbulb type with the best light switches and dimmers should result in an immediate improvement.

Lighting expert Sam Garbutt, from LED & Power, says, “Typically, the most common light switch malfunctions include flickering lights, overheating, delayed responses and buzzing sounds.” He adds, “The majority of these issues can be straightforward to identify, but others may require more insight. For instance, an overheating switch can be identified by being warm to the touch and having a burnt smell”

5. Fluctuating voltage

Reduced or fluctuating voltage has a direct bearing on electrics and, by extension, flickering lights in the house.

The UK National Grid delivers power to homes at around 230 volts per dwelling. As a rule, your household electrical appliances should operate efficiently anywhere between 115 and 125 volts, ensuring a consistently generous flow of electricity throughout the property.

However, if the voltage goes higher or lower than expected, appliances can malfunction, and flickering lights are usually the first sign of this happening.

You can measure the voltage in your home with an analogue or digital voltmeter, which helps give a clearer picture of whether electricity levels are too high or too low.

6. Loose connection

It is usually possible to find electrical sockets in ample supply throughout your home. Of course, this means that a loose connection between the plug and socket-outlet can lead to standalone lights, e.g., table lamps, flickering around the house.

"Faulty wall sockets usually show tell-tale signs on the outside. Blackening around the pin entry points, arching and possibly sparking switches, cracks or chips," explains Clive Holland. "In all cases, stop using the socket and get it replaced by a qualified electrician."

Swaping a socket if the existing one appears too damaged is usually a straightforward, inexpensive task.

7. Overloaded circuit board

As the number of household appliances and devices we have in our homes increases, overloaded circuit boards are becoming more and more common. This is chiefly due to the amounts of electricity needed to power each appliance.

For example, if flickering lights are infrequent and brief, this is usually not serious. Still, you should keep an eye on the situation, in case anything changes.

However, any blinks or flickers lasting longer than a few seconds each time should be reported to a qualified electrician, as this could mean that the circuit board needs replacing.

8. Electric utility service issues

From time to time, flickering lights in the house can be attributed to a problem with your energy provider. This is most likely to occur ahead of a major electrical disturbance, e.g., an area-wide power outage or storm.

Check in with your neighbours first, as they could be experiencing similar problems; in which case, you know it's probably not a fault with your household electrics.

As an added precaution, you can also call 105, a free service available to people in England, Scotland and Wales, for useful information about possible local power cuts.

FAQs

Are flickering lights a fire hazard?

Not all causes of flickering lights in the house are dangerous. They may be a simple fix you can undertake yourself (such as swapping bulbs) or a straightforward job for an electrician.

However, something like faulty wiring can pose a serious threat to home safety because of how the electrical current travels; it could potentially overheat its surrounding environment. Early intervention is your best bet here, especially if you're renovating a house or embarking on a similarly major project.

A point reinforced by Garbutt, “It’s important not to dismiss or ignore flickering lights as they can be a major fire hazard. Flickering lights commonly signal underlying electrical issues such as faulty wiring, overloaded circuits, damaged outlets or voltage fluctuations. When these issues are left untreated, they can result in electrical fires or electric shocks, so it’s important to consult an electrician as soon as possible”.

How much does it cost to fix flickering lights in the house?

The cost to fix flickering lights in the house depends on two things: the root cause of the flickering and the repairs required to address it.

Changing a lightbulb, for example, means you only have to pay for the product; any labour is entirely your own. Expect to pay no more than a few pounds as standard for any new pack of LED bulbs. (The best LED bulbs are usually a little more.)

Now, if we think about fixing faulty wiring, that's potentially a very expensive project. In the UK, rewiring a whole house can cost £3,000-£10,000.

Fixing any isolated faulty wiring, however, will cost less, but you must still budget upwards of £150, as fees can vary depending on where the fault lies in the house, and the labour rates of the electrician to get things working as they should once again.

When you’re sorting out the flickering lights in your home, it's a good time to think about a new lighting setup. Check out our lighting design guide, along with our small bedroom lighting ideas and landing lighting ideas for inspiration.

Eco heating systems need to have two things: zero CO2 emissions and a long life. One of the biggest decisions on any renovation or self build project is how you’re going to heat your home, and with gas boilers on the way out in new builds, eco heating systems are certainly a step in the right direction.

Whether you opt for an air source heat pump or alternative methods of home heating, it's vital that eco heating systems are installed with efficiency in mind. This means providing your home with enough warmth throughout the year while keeping environmental impact to a minimum.

In this guide, we look at how to go about choosing the right eco heating system for your home, comparing cost-effectiveness with levels of sustainability, so you can make an informed decision.

Why Choose Eco Heating Systems?

The typical gas or oil boiler will last 10-15 years before its efficiency has dropped to a point where it can no longer be used. This means that a house with a design life of 80 years will need seven or eight of them during that time.

Each replacement requires time and effort on your part while not being very good for the planet — thanks to the CO2 embodied in its system’s manufacturing. An eco heating system, however, should last longer, and make savings on emissions that outweigh the CO2 produced by manufacturing its replacement.

Which Are the Most Affordable Eco Heating Systems?

Budget-friendly eco heating systems are, ideally, ones you don’t install, because your house is so well insulated and airtight that dedicated heating isn’t necessary. 

This is, in all practical senses, impossible. Even if a thermally efficient house could be built, people would still need hot water, and therefore something to heat it. That could be done with solar energy, and the all-solar house has been done, but it is not cheap or easy and it’s a bit unpredictable. 

That said, the principle of improving thermal efficiency to minimise the heat demand remains the cheapest, and in some senses the greenest, option. Good insulation and airtightness is key to creating a warm, sustainable home. 

It will last for the life of the house it’s installed in, and extend that life by making the building more suitable for future demands. Meanwhile, CO2 embodied in the manufacture of the insulation will be recovered multiple times in emissions savings.

As such, before looking to eco heating systems, investing in the fabric of the building, to reduce your heating demand, should arguably be is the first priority, particularly when building a new home or taking on an extensive renovation.

Which Eco Heating Systems Are the Greenest?

The greenest option for eco heating systems is either a water source heat pump (which takes heat from a large body of water) with a heat battery, or a ground source heat pump. 

These pumps operate with equal efficiency night and day. A battery will store the heat produced, allowing the heat pump to be run at night when the carbon intensity of grid electricity is at its lowest (demand can often be met wholly by wind farms and nuclear plants). 

Heat from the battery can then be used for underfloor heating and hot water during the day. Be sure to sign up to a green electricity supplier like Octopus or Ecotricity, as well, for maximum efficiency. 

Systems of this type have effectively zero CO2 emissions and last 20 to 30 years, but the capital cost is high. This is where thermal efficiency like insulation and airtightness comes in, allowing the use of a smaller system to help mitigate this cost. 

Having said that, air source heat pumps are almost becoming the default standard for self builders and renovators. (Swapping your gas boiler for an air source heat pump is becoming more mainstream for owners of existing homes.)

This may principally be because there is no water available for a water source heat pump and not enough unshaded land for a ground source (or the bore hole alternative to the latter proves prohibitively expensive). But perhaps this is also because they are cheaper than the alternatives and more likely to be familiar to the local plumber or heating engineer. 

They are less efficient but are nonetheless a better option than a gas or oil boiler.

Eco Heating Systems: Which Is the Best Option?

It's now common knowledge that fossil fuels are a problem, but biomass isn’t perhaps the answer either. We can always grow more wood, but the embodied CO2 from manufacturing and transporting the fuel is still a huge cause for concern. 

That leaves electricity. There are times of the day and days in the year when the carbon intensity of grid electricity is zero. Each new wind or solar farm that opens, and each coal-fired power station that closes, makes this a better option. 

The only other alternative on the horizon is hydrogen heating as a replacement for grid gas, but that is still in its infancy in the UK. 

Having established that electricity is to be preferred, it is difficult to ignore the three- or four-fold efficiency advantage that heat pumps offer. Alternatives like modern, efficient night storage heaters and infrared heating (quick reacting, with low capital cost) have their place, but are seldom a whole-house option.  

New technologies are emerging all the time, like the Heat Wayv microwave boiler, which will likely offer whole-house heating, but it is not yet available for purchase.  

At present, heat pumps are the only proven technology, and used with a hot water cylinder, remain the best option. 

In the immediate future, the question is then not so much, ‘will a heat pump work for me’, but more, ‘how do I get my house ready for a heat pump’?

Have you been wondering whether you can install have a log burner without a chimney? If so, you are not alone. Wood burning stoves add tonnes of character and warmth to a home but, if like countless others, you live in a house with no chimney, what are your options?

Thankfully, no chimney doesn’t necessarily mean no log burner. In this guide, we show you the ways round this common problem, offering log burner alternatives and solutions to the issue of no chimney.

Do I Need a Chimney For a Wood Burning Stove?

Even if you live in a house with no chimney, it is still possible to fit a log burning stove. However, it is obviously a little more complicated than if you have an existing chimney already in place.

To fit a log burning stove without a chimney, you will need to install a twin wall chimney flue system to take fumes from the stove to outside.

Twin wall flue systems – also sometimes called pre-fabricated chimney systems – are made up of connectable stainless steel pipes, wrapped in insulation. These pipes sit within an outer tube in order to keep the temperature inside the flue warm enough to draw the fumes though the pipe before they are expelled outside.

There are two types of twin wall chimney flue systems:

• External twin wall flue system: These systems involve connecting the pipes to the stove. From here, they exit through an external wall, running up the side of your house, usually up to the roof, where they can deposit fumes at a safe distance.
• Internal twin wall flue system: Rather than running up the side of your house, this type of system runs from your stove, through your ceilings, before exiting through the roof.

Both systems make it possible to fit a log burner with no chimney, but which one you choose will depend on your circumstances and needs.

External twin wall flue systems are less disruptive to fit than internal systems, but mean having a steel pipe running up the outside of your house.

Internal twin wall systems often result in a stove that is easier to light and use as the flue is kept warmer, but on the downside, they need space to be boxed in to the ceiling and their installation is a little more disruptive.

How is a Wood Burner Installed in a Home Without a Chimney?

Fitting a log burner without a chimney is a job best carried out by a professional and you will need to ensure it is installed in accordance with the building regulations for chimneys, stoves and fireplaces.

You (or your HETAS installer) will need to buy stove pipe, a twin wall chimney flue system and a suitable hearth — as well as a stove, of course.

In the case of external systems, the wall is usually stripped back to the brickwork. The hearth will then be positioned, before the stove is put into place and the stove pipe attached. The next step is to install the flue system.

Finally, don't forget to factor in any patching up and decorating that will be required after installation.

It is important to bear in mind that if you don't get a HETAS registered engineer to install your log burner, you will need to call out (and pay) building control to come out to inspect and sign off the installation.

Are There Alternatives to Wood Burners in Homes Without Chimneys? 

If you don't like the idea of fitting a flue system, but want the warmth and charm of a log burner, you should take a look at one of the wood burning stove alternatives on offer.

These include electric stoves, gas stoves and bioethanol fires. All have their pros and cons.

Electric Stoves

Electric stoves are an easy-to-fit, fuss free solution for those with no chimney.

Compared to log burning stoves, gas stoves and other log burner alternatives, electric stoves are cheaper to buy and simple to install — in most cases you can just plug them in to an electrical socket.

They require no chimney or hearth and don't give off any fumes.

On the downside, even the most realistic flame effects are no match for the real thing — plus, should you experience a power cut, your fire won't work. In addition, they don't give off as much heat as wood burning or gas stoves.

Gas Stoves

Gas stoves are a great option for those who want real flames. They come in a huge range of styles and offer the same kind of visual charm as a log burner.

While no logs or kindling will be required, you will need a gas supply. You should also be aware than although you won't need a chimney, adequate ventilation will need to be put in place — plus you must get a Gas Safe registered engineer to install it in order to comply with Building Regulations.

While there are options available for a couple of hundred pounds, some of the best gas stoves can cost over £1,000.

Bioethanol Fireplaces

Bioethanol fireplaces require no chimney, yet produce a living flame and require no specialist fitting.

They can be placed pretty much wherever you want them and come in wall mounted or freestanding models — some can even be controlled via a remote control or smart device.

On the downside, they heat they give off is not as high as a log burning or gas stove so they may not suit those who want a stove as a primary heat source. However, they're a good options for those building new energy-efficient homes.

When you need a new radiator, there’s plenty to choose from – from the less thrilling type of radiator through to the inspiring choice of style and colour to match your interior design dreams.

But before you dive in and choose a radiator, you need to know what will work well for your home. Will your chosen radiator output be enough heat to keep a room warm and toasty? Will it add style and charm? Is it the best option for your home?

In this guide, those in the know offer up their advice to help you make the right choice for you and your home.

Radiator heating options

Before you get stuck in to selecting a type of radiator, take some time to consider how your radiators will be heated. There are three main options:

1. Plumbed radiators

This is the most common type of radiator. It will be connected to your central heating system and rely on your boiler to heat hot water which will then be circulated through pipes around your home into the radiators.

2. Electric radiators

These are a good option for those looking for a radiator to fit into a space where there is no central heating – for example a new garden office, or annexe. Rather than being controlled centrally, electric radiators are operated individually. Some can be plugged into to a conventional socket, while others need an electrician to fit.

3. Dual fuel radiators

This radiator type is usually a central heating radiator that has a mains-powered device inserted into it. This allows you to have the radiator heated even when the central heating elsewhere in the house is turned off (for example in the summer months) – it is a great option for heated towel rails.

Try these radiators to heat your home

Types of radiator

There are several different types of radiator – they vary in size, shape, style and also in how much heat they emit.

Single panel radiators

These are the most basic of all the types of radiator out there. These horizontal radiators run off the central heating and are wall-mounted.

Nick Duggan, Director at The Radiator Centre, shares why they are good for, “One of the biggest advantages of choosing a single panel radiator is its sleek simplicity.” He adds, “Its slim profile makes it an ideal choice for spaces where you want to maximise floor space or maintain a clean, uncluttered look. Single panel radiators are typically used in hallways, smaller rooms or modern open-plan areas where understated style and efficient heating go hand in hand.”

However, it is worth noting that they give out less heat than double or triple-panel models.

Double panel radiators

Double-panel radiators are horizontal-style radiators, made up of two single panels up against each other. They are also wall-mounted.

“Double panel radiators offer exceptional heat output,” shares Duggan. “With two layers of panels working together, it warms a room quickly and efficiently, making it ideal for larger living areas, kitchens or rooms with higher ceilings.”

However, do bear in mind that their greater heat output means they can be smaller in width than a single model. It’s also possible to buy triple-panel radiators.

Column radiators

Column radiators are popular with those after a type of radiator for a period home and are a great way to add some character and charm – although its worth noting that there are contemporary column-style radiators on offer these days.

Shamila Iqbal – Director at Bathroom Mountain extols their flexibility, “Column radiators are especially versatile. They come in single, double, or triple column designs, with more columns providing greater heat output.”

They offer great heat output and hold heat well too. In terms of size, they will take up more space than a slimline single-panel model, but they are available with different numbers of columns and even as narrow vertical radiators

Iqbal shares where they work well, “A single column radiator is slim and works well in narrower spaces, while double and triple column models deliver much more warmth, making them perfect for bigger rooms or homes with high ceilings.”

She adds, “An additional benefit of column radiators is the variety of sizes available, including very tall but narrow options. These vertical designs offer a great space-saving solution where wall width is limited but the ceiling height can be used, making them ideal for compact hallways, cloakrooms, and alcoves.”

Vertical radiators

Vertical radiators are also sometimes known as 'upright radiators' and are ideal in smaller spaces or where a more creative solution to the more traditional style of radiator is required. They make a great design statement.

They are tall and narrow and perfect for thin wall spaces, freeing up wall space elsewhere. They come in all kinds of designs, from column-style to flush and contemporary and some even have little pegs attached for hanging tea towels and the like in kitchens.

Heated towel rails

Heated towel rails – or ladder rails as they are sometimes referred to – are radiators that are designed with drying and heating towels in mind, making them the best bathroom radiators. However, they will also give off useful heat into a room so are one of the best ways of heating a bathroom.

Heated towel rails can either run off the central heating, along with the rest of your radiators, or you might prefer to opt for an electric towel warmer instead.

Electric towel rails are useful in that they can still be warm even in summer when your central heating is switched off.

An alternative to both of these options is to go for a dual fuel towel rail which can run off the central heating system when it is on, or use the mains electric when it is off.

When it comes to choosing a heated towel rail, do try to go for the biggest you can – particularly in family bathrooms where there is likely to be numerous wet towels to hang.

Designer radiators

Some radiators look like works of art rather than practical fittings that will heat the home. Designs come in all shapes and sizes from mirrored vertical radiators to those that look like waves.

While designer radiators can become a real focal point in the home, do remember to double check that their heat output will heat your room adequately.

FAQs

What size radiator do I need?

In order to work out what size radiator you need in a room, you will first need to calculate the required heat output of the space, which will be measured in BTUs (British Thermal Units).

This calculation will take into account the size of the room and what type of glazing you have. There are numerous online BTU calculators available for use, and all you need to do is know the room's measurements in cubic feet.

Do bear in mind that it is unlikely that any radiator will match the exact heat output required, so just select the first size above the required heat.

Also, in rooms that are larger than 6m in any direction, it is a good idea to consider more than one radiator in order to get a good distribution of heat.

Do larger rooms need more than one radiator?

Larger spaces do need more heat than smaller spaces, as Nicholas Auckland, Managing Director of Trade Radiators, reveals, “They often do, but again it depends on the room's overall BTU requirements. If it's particularly high, spreading the heat across two or more radiators can be more effective than using one oversized radiator.”

He adds, “This is because it'll help distribute heat evenly, preventing any particularly cold spots in your room. Placing at opposite ends of the room is recommended in order to prevent uneven heat distribution".

New radiators are a great way to update a space, but if your budget won’t currently stretch to an update, painting a radiator is a quick and cost-effective way to upgrade. Check out how to paint behind a radiator and the best radiator paint to get the best finish.

Underfloor heating installation is not an easy task but for a competent DIYer it is one that could save you money on your project – if you have the right skills. 

While a lot of the underfloor heating installation can be carried out yourself, there are some aspects that are notifiable. These elements will therefore need to be completed by a qualified professional. The key ones being installing a new underfloor heating manifold for a wet system or connecting up a power source for electric underfloor heating.

Whether you are planning to lay your underfloor heating as a DIY project, or you simply want to understand the process, our sustainable building expert Tim Pullen explains how in this step-by-step guide for wet underfloor heating. 

Of course, it's important to remember that you should only take on DIY projects that are within your capabilities. If you make a mistake, it can cost you more to rectify than the initial cost saving in the first place.

How do I install wet underfloor heating?

Before starting, it's worth having a plan about where your pipes are going to sit as well as having all the equipment and tool you need ready to use.

1. Connect the pipe to the manifold 

The first step is to connect the floor heating pipe to the underfloor heating manifolds. The manifold will have already been installed by a professional and you shouldn't undertake this on a DIY basis. 

2. Lay underfloor heating insulation

After laying your insulation, you will need to begin to lay the pipe. This is an important element, and shouldn't be overlooked — laying insulation under underfloor heating will improve the efficiency by resisting the heat from going downwards 

3. Begin to lay the pipe

After laying your insulation, you will need to begin to lay the pipe. Make sure to clear the subfloor before laying out the pipes to ensure there's nothing that will damaged the pipes. 

4. Fix the underfloor heating pipes 

Secure the pipe to the insulation as you go using pipe staples. Ensure you fix the pipe with the correct spacing to ensure optimal heat distribution.

5. Install across the whole floor 

Loop the pipe across the whole floor area, using multiple loops for large spaces.

6. Prepare the screed 

Mix the screed or opt for a ready-mixed version. The pipes must always be pressure tested before the floor screed is laid. Equally important is to ensure the pipes are full of water while the screed is being laid so that if there is any damage it will be immediately obvious and can fixed before the screed laying is finished.

7. Pour the screed

Carefully pour the self-levelling screed over the pipework, ensuring that the pipes are securely fastened and the insulation is sitting flat. 

The screed is stabilise with a chemical spray, before being finally tamped for a smooth finish. 

8. Leave to dry

Leave the screed for at least 7 days to dry before turning on the underfloor heating. At this point, turn the underfloor heating at the lowest temperature, gradually increasing it over a number of days. 

Underfloor heating thermostats work in a slightly different way to those used for radiator-based central heating. This allows you to not only have better control of your home's heating, creating a comfortable temperature where you need it, but also reduce the amount of energy wasted, which means your heating bills are smaller too. 

There are a few types of controls available for your underflooring heating, including both wired-in and wireless thermostats. There's also a move towards more 'Internet of Things' enabled controls for underfloor heating, meaning that you can control your heating from your phone remotely, set up timers and schedules and even, in some cases, using a smart assistant. 

In this guide, we look at the options available to you, where you need to place underfloor heating controls and advise on the best temperatures to set your thermostats to. 

How do Underfloor Heating Thermostats Work?

Underfloor heating thermostats work in a number of different ways. 

There is usually a room thermostat on the wall that measures the heat in the room. When the thermostat is turned up it will then call for heat to be distributed to the floor in that area. It is quite normal to have a separate thermostat in each area or zone so that the whole property is not being heated up if some zones don’t need additional heat. 

Sometimes there will also be thermostats built into the floor to make sure that the floor does not overheat or to make sure that the floor does not get too cold, especially if there is another heat source in the room (such as a log burner or Aga) that could potentially ‘confuse' the room thermostat. 

There are also differences in how thermostats work depending on the type of underfloor heating you choose. Electric underfloor heating has a lot of electric wires that are installed in the floor and connected back to the main electrical supply. When switched on, the resistance in the wires causes them to heat up. Electric underfloor heating thermostats will be connected, either hard wired or wireless, back to the switch controller, which will then turn the separate circuits on or off according to demand.

A wet underfloor heating system is one where there are long loops of pipework installed in the floor and warm water is circulated and the heat then transfers from the water to the floor. Underfloor heating thermostats in wet systems are also either wired or wirelessly connected to a controller, but instead of the controller turning a circuit on or off, it will instead open up a motorised valve on the underfloor heating manifold that then allows warm water to flow to that zone.

How Does an Underfloor Heating Thermostat Work?

Underfloor heating thermostats are usually wall-mounted units that can be used to adjust your underfloor heating by simple turn dials, digital push-buttons, touch sensitive screens or via smart devices such as phones or tablets. 

The thermostats can be programmed to have different temperatures at different times of the day and also have different requirements on the weekend. Any number of options can be programmed in so that the system is optimised and you are not wasting heat when it is not required.

Wireless thermostats communicate between the room thermostat and the controller via a low power wireless signal. This can be a very good way of adding room by room control to an existing property without the need to chase walls and cause a lot of disruption in order to install wires to every room. 

WiFi can then be used to connect your phone or tablet to the controller so that you can then adjust the heating from practically anywhere in the world, so long as there is an internet connection there. 

What Features Should I Look for in an Underfloor Heating Thermostat?

Many modern thermostats have a huge array of options with them. 

Compatibility with your heating system as well as other temperature control devices is a key feature to look for. You would not want a thermostat on your heating system that could not communicate with the air conditioning system because then as the air conditioning system cooled down the room the heating system may turn on to try and heat it up again. 

If you go away a lot you might also want the ability to connect to the home via WiFi. 

In an existing home you may also need to connect to motorised radiator valves if you have a mix of wet underfloor heating and radiators. In addition you may also want the system to control a couple of electric underfloor heating zones in a bathroom as well as an electric panel heater. You would then need to specify a control system that can do it all. 

Make sure you know what your requirements are, both now and for the future, so that your control system is future proof.

Can I Use Any Thermostat for Underfloor Heating?

Most thermostats are made for specific systems.  There are generic products available but they too will be part of their system so you would need to buy the generic thermostat with the generic controls and then connect it to the underfloor heating manifold. 

Many smart home systems have the capability to control the heating but it is very important to make sure that the smart home system is indeed fully compatible with your UFH system. 

How Much do Underfloor Heating Thermostats Cost? 

Thermostats are usually part of a system and should ideally be bought as a system. The only time you would really buy thermostats individually is if you were replacing a damaged one or extending a system. 

The cost of individual thermostats will depend a lot on the quality and functionality of the product. 

How Many Thermostats do I Need?

As a minimum, you will need one thermostat per zone (not one per room as you may have more than one zone in a large room) but you may add additional thermostats if you have second heat generators such as log burners or Aga type cookers and you need to stop the floor from going cold. 

How Can I Control Different Zones with my Underfloor Heating Thermostat? 

During underfloor heating installation, pipes or wires will be installed in different areas with separate thermostats. Each zone can be individually controlled via the electronic controls and, in the case of wet systems, the controls then connect back to the manifold to open or close the zones. 

Where Should I Position the Thermostat? 

Ideally, the thermostat should be positioned in a place where it will be able to sense the average temperature in that area. 

It should not be in direct sunlight or in a draughty area. It should also not be placed near any appliances as they can emit heat, which could give false readings to the thermostat.

Wireless thermostats should also not be placed in any area where they cannot communicate with the heating controller, such as in, or behind, metal-lined materials like foil-backed insulation or plasterboard. There is also the risk of communication breakdown where there is another source of wireless interference, such as from a wifi router, mobile phones or sometimes even lighting transformers and dimmers.

What Temperature Should my Underfloor Heating Thermostat be set to? 

The temperature that you set your room thermostat at must be the temperature at which you feel comfortable. 

It is however worth remembering that as the humidity in the room rises so will your desired room temperature. 

Make sure that the property is adequately (but not overly) ventilated and that way the room thermostat can actually be set a bit lower.  

Underfloor heating is a great way to heat a home and combining underfloor heating with wooden floors provides a finish which is both beautiful and practical. However, when it comes to combining the two, there are issues to take into consideration.

Our guide is here to address all potential problems when it comes to installing underfloor heating with wooden floors in order to ensure you don't run into any difficulties. 

Can You Use Underfloor Heating With Wooden Floors?

In short, yes, you can use underfloor heating with wooden flooring — both wet systems and electric underfloor heating.  

Timber flooring is capable of effectively holding onto heat and releasing it into a room, plus it heats up quickly.  

However, different types of wooden flooring have their own requirements and certain timber floors – namely engineered wood flooring – work better with underfloor heating than others. It is crucial that you choose the right flooring if you want to avoid expensive and disruptive problems later down the line. 

There are also practical considerations when it comes to underfloor heating installation which need to be factored in, when adding wood flooring as a floor finish.

Choosing the Best Wood Flooring with Underfloor Heating

When it comes to choosing the best types of wood flooring to use with your new underfloor heating system, engineered hardwood flooring is definitely a good option that gives the appearance of a solid wood floor with none of its associated problems. 

Engineered wood floors are made up of a top layer of solid wood (the thickness of which varies depending on the quality of the product), with several softwood layers beneath. 

These layers add stability to the flooring and allow it to naturally expand and contract rather than it warping, cracking or twisting as can be the case with a solid floor. 

“With all types of wood the floor temperature should not exceed 28°C and this can be controlled by embedding a thermostatic sensor in the screed,” advises Graham Wooley, underfloor heating expert and owner of Epic Insulation Ltd.

Can You Use Underfloor Heating With Solid Wood Flooring?

Most underfloor heating specialists tend to advise against using solid wood flooring with underfloor heating. Solid planks of wood are susceptible to movement when exposed to changes in temperature (think how timber doors can stick depending on the season in older houses).  

“Some types of solid wood flooring are not recommended because of shrinkage although there are conflicting opinions on compatibility,” advises Ian Graham Woolley of Epic Insulation Ltd.

Certain species of wood are less prone to this kind of reaction than others and for this reason it is always best to check with your underfloor heating supplier first.  

If you do have your heart set on a solid timber floor, Nu-Heat advise using a kiln-dried timber with a moisture content of between 6-9%. The timber must be stored in a dry place before being fitted and used alongside a floor temperature sensor that can detect overheating. 

They also advise using only narrow solid boards. Ideally, boards no thicker than 18mm should be used. 

Engineered wood floors are a much safer option when it comes to combining a timber floor with underfloor heating. 

Does Wood Flooring Need to Acclimate Before Being Laid Over Underfloor Heating?

Any type of wooden flooring must be allowed to acclimatise before installation with underfloor heating to avoid the risk of the timber expanding or contracting.

In order to do this, lay packs of boards flat in the room you will be fitting the flooring in for the time recommended by your supplier. Engineered wood tends to take between 48 and 72 hours to acclimatise, whereas solid wood takes up to seven days, depending on wood type and manufacturer.

It is also vital that when heating up your underfloor heating system for the first time, you do it slowly — failure to do this could damage the timber. 

Finally, always leave an expansion gap when fitting underfloor heating with timber flooring. An expansion gap (usually 15mm) should be left around the perimeter of the room in order to allow the wooden floor to expand and contract. This can be concealed with skirting boards.

Can Underfloor Heating be Used on Floorboards? 

If you have a suspended timber floor in your home (as is the case in many old houses) you can still have underfloor heating, although its installation can be a little more complicated. 

When using a wet underfloor heating system, the floorboards will need to be lifted for the system to be laid, then fixed back down afterwards. In the case of suspended floors at upper levels, the heating system can also be laid from underneath.

There are wet underfloor heating systems available specifically for use with suspended timber floors — these are often designed to be fitted between the floor joists. All pipework and insulation panels are fitted tightly into the void, with the pipes being clipped to the insulation and grooves cut out of the battens to accommodate them. 

To work effectively the system must be as airtight as possible — sometimes a screed mix is used between the insulation and floorboards to ensure this.

It is also possible to use systems that incorporate thin metal plates or chipboard mats holding pipes that are laid directly on top of the floor joists. Although most of these systems are very thin, they will inevitably add a little to the floor height of your room. 

Can Wooden Flooring be Used with Electric Underfloor Heating?

Electric underfloor heating is another good option for use with wooden floors. 

In the case of suspended timber floors, the original floorboards become the subfloor. The electric underfloor heat mats are then laid on top, usually on a base of plywood or a suitable tile backer board. A new floor finish, such as engineered timber, is then added. 

It's important to buy an electric underfloor heating kit or system which is designed specifically for use with solid wood, engineered wood or laminate flooring; check with the supplier or manufacturer if you are in any doubt.

Which is the Best Flooring For Underfloor Heating?

Many types of flooring are suitable for use with underfloor heating. The best flooring for underfloor heating can easily transfer heat produced by the underfloor heating system to the floor's surface. 

Amongst the best are hard floors such as stone, porcelain and ceramic floors and polished concrete, with engineered timber following close behind. Wood-effect porcelain floors can provide an excellent alternative to wooden flooring.

Soft flooring such as carpet can be used – if the tog rating of both carpet and underlay do not exceed 2.5 – but tend not to be quite as effective.

The best traditional radiators should really deliver in terms of style, complementing period style interior schemes perfectly without stealing the limelight.

Traditional homes are usually full of gorgeous original features, such as fireplaces and doors, and the last thing you want when choosing radiators is for them to detract from these features or to overwhelm the space.

Traditional radiators, such as column style models, are a great choice for classic interior schemes, offering bags of period charm. Developments in the industry also mean that they no longer all carry the hefty price tag they once did either. 

Here is our round-up of the best traditional radiators, based on heat output, appearance and price.

The Best Traditional Radiators

This is a really simple yet elegant column radiator — perfect for slotting quietly in with pretty much any interior scheme out there.

It has a great heat output and a reasonable price tag. Made from low-carbon steel, the Elegant Traditional Radiator is powder coated three times and treated with an imitation porcelain coating that resists rust and offers a high gloss finish. 

Finally, the style comes in a wide range of sizes and styles, including vertical models to fit in awkward spaces. 

Buy the ELEGANT Traditional Radiator Cast Iron Style Horizontal Radiator

Based on a Victorian design, the Neo Classic 4 Column from Arroll features a simple and stylish design that makes it well-suited for both modern and traditional home settings. 

The matt cast iron construction makes this radiator highly efficient - this is because it takes longer to cool down, keeping you warm long after you turn off your central heating. 

It also comes with a standard bleed valve, wall stays, air vent and touch-up paint, and has a 10-year manufacturer's guarantee. 

Buy the Arroll Neo-Classic 4 Column Radiator

This long, low model of column radiator is perfect for those after a design to fit beneath a low window cill. 

Its chunky column design and classic looks mean it would sit effortlessly within a more traditional interior scheme — yet the anthracite finish gives it a contemporary twist.

Bear in mind that it is fairly hefty to carry and its long proportions make it a little awkward to manoeuvre so be sure to enlist a helper when getting it into position. 

Buy the WarmeHaus Traditional Cast Iron Style Double Column Horizontal Radiator

Perfect for smaller spaces, the Milano Windsor Column Radiator is sturdy, attractive and has a really impressive heat output given its compact dimensions — plus it retains heat well even after the heating has gone off. 

Whilst it might be a little more pricey than some similarly-sized steel column radiators, it is high-quality and has an expensive-looking anthracite finish, as well as a very reassuring 20 year guarantee. 

Buy the Milano Windsor Column Radiator Horizontal Cast Iron Style Radiator

Not your average traditional radiator — this one is a real attention grabber. The Terma Rolo-Room Quartz Mocha Horizontal Designer Radiator features straight 'tubes' in place of the more classic columns.

A design benefit is that it features large internal holes which enable quick internal distribution of the water, therefore it heats up very quickly.

The 'Quartz Mocha' finish may be a step too far for some traditionalists but for those aiming to create contemporary interiors within a period renovation project this radiator could be just the ticket. 

Buy the Terma Rolo-Room Quartz Mocha Horizontal Designer Radiator

Ok, so this is more of a contemporary design rather than traditional, but it's such a good radiator we simply have to talk about it. 

The Milano Aruba double panel designer radiator perfectly combines sleek design with excellent functionality - and it's a great way to add minimal style to any room in your house. 

It features a high-quality 1.5mm thick steel, making it very durable (it comes with a 20-year guarantee). And the hard-wearing white powder coated finish complements any décor in your bathroom, kitchen, bedroom or lounge. 

Plus, it's available in a variety of widths and in single or double panel models. 

Buy the Milano Aruba

What are BTUs?

BTU stands for British Thermal Units. The BTU rate of a radiator allows you to know how much heat it will emit. It is a useful way of working out whether or not a particular radiator is the right size for your room. 

You should see a BTU featured on the product spec of any good radiator.

It is important that you choose a radiator or heated towel rail that offers the right heat output for your space so that you don't find it getting too hot or cold. 

Are Traditional Radiators Efficient?

Cast iron and steel radiators generally aren't too different when it comes to heating efficiency, and both provide a similar heat output. 

One advantage of cast iron radiators is that they retain heat very well, meaning you can turn them off once your room is warm enough and still enjoy the heat for hours after. This can help you save on energy costs too.

However, cast iron radiators can also take longer to heat up, meaning you'll need to switch them on earlier for when you want the room to be heated up later in the day. 

Deciding whether your property needs rewiring is a big consideration as to whether you want to take on a renovation project. If the home you're purchasing is more than 25 years old, it's important to make investigations into the state of the wiring before you buy. 

By checking this out with a survey ahead of time, you can get an understanding of how much work will be required, which also means you'll be able to get an estimate of how much rewiring is likely to cost — it might just affect how feasible renovating a house is for your budget. 

Let's not forget rewiring can also be a messy and disruptive job, so you also need to budget for making the walls and ceilings right again after the rewiring process has finished. 

Your home's rewiring is not a place to skimp either. At the very worst, bad wiring can pose a serious fire hazard, as well as potentially injuring or electrocuting those living in the house. 

In this guide, we look at what you need to know about the rewiring process from a renovator's perspective. 

When Does a Property Need Rewiring?

There are several reasons a home may need rewiring, including:

• If a property has not already been rewired within the last 25-30 years, the chances are it will need upgrading at least in part in order to bring it up to current standards. The wiring may be potentially dangerous and may not be able to cope with the demands of modern living.
• If you plan major remodelling work that constitutes a material alteration as defined by the Building Regulations, it is likely that you will need to rewire part, if not all, of the property, including upgrading the consumer unit (fuse box).
• If you are extending your home, or converting an attic or garage, this will constitute new work and therefore all of the new wiring will have to conform to Part P: Electrical Safety, and all existing wiring will have to be improved to ensure that it is able to carry the additional loads safely, it is earthed to current requirements and that cross bonding is satisfactory.
• Where you are extending or remodelling, the rest of the existing wiring does not have to be upgraded, except where upgrading is required by the energy efficiency requirements of the Building Regulations, i.e. central heating controls.

How to Tell if Your Property has Been Rewired

You should be able to tell if a house has been rewired recently by inspecting exposed parts of the wiring and by the electricity meter and fuse box (now known as the consumer unit). You can ask to do this when being shown around a property you are thinking of buying, or by inspecting your home. If there is an old-fashioned-style fuse box, with big white ceramic-style fuses, then the chances are that the property needs completely rewiring.

With two or more sets of circuits, it can be very difficult to know if all of them have been disconnected when undertaking work and this is unsafe. Another tell-tale sign that a rewire may be necessary is a mix of different socket and switch styles. This could indicate that a partial rewire has taken place, especially if there is evidence of surface-mounted wiring running along skirting boards and up walls.

In some rare cases of properties that have not been renovated in decades, you may still find example of old round pin sockets or original dolly switches, both of which are a sure sign that a rewire is necessary.

Another clue is the colour and style of the cabling, which you should be able to see at light fittings, around the fuse box. Modern electrical installations are wired in PVCu insulated cable coloured grey or white, and a modern consumer unit will have circuit breakers and residual circuit devices (RCDs).

(MORE: Find an electrician for your project)

What if it has not Been Rewired?

Unless the wiring is the modern PVCu coated type, then a rewire is likely to be necessary. If you see any old rubber insulated cabling, fabric insulated cabling (used until the 1960s), or lead insulated cabling (used until 1955) then it needs replacing as the insulation can rot and/or break down, leading to short circuiting: a fire hazard and potential electrocution.

Even older PVCu cable may need replacing if it is not twin earthed cabling (with a second earth cable running within the outer sleeve), but this may only be evident if you are able to remove a switch or socket faceplate and look closely.

Checking for this conducting the viewing, and certainly is not advisable unless you are able to turn off the mains first.

If you are in any doubt, assume that a total rewire is required and budget accordingly. It may be that the system can be improved for less money by upgrading earthing and cross bonding.

If you proceed with the project, then before exchanging contracts you can arrange to get a qualified electrician to do a building survey and find out exactly what work is required.

• An electrician will typically charge £100-150 for a survey with a verbal report.
• A full electrical survey with a written report is likely to cost £250-350.

How Disruptive is Rewiring a House?

Rewiring a property is messy, disruptive work. It happens in two stages: first fix, when cables and wiring are installed, and second fix when everything is joined up or made ‘live’, when the front faces of sockets, switches and lights are fitted. Those runs of wires go everywhere: under floors, through walls and across ceilings, so first fix is best done without carpets or furniture, so floorboards can be lifted and ceilings cut into. To position new sockets and switches at legally correct heights, plaster generally needs to be chased into, too.

This is why it’s important to plan what’s going where in each room before starting the first fix stage, so you know where you need lights, plug points and any other electrically driven items. Additions mid-way through are costly and time consuming.

One way to prepare is by drawing a plan of your home with each room on graph paper and marking up the position of beds, sofas, kitchen units and so on. You can then consider the lighting and switches required. Little things like under-cabinet and bedside lighting are easy to do when planned from the start, but costly to undertake later. As well as thinking about task, mood and feature lighting, remember smoke and heat alarms, garden RCD safety sockets and external security lights.

Today we are a super-consuming society hooked on smart home tech. In terms of electrics, this means mood lighting, surround sound, high-speed Wi-Fi, kitchen gadgets and TVs in the bathroom. Electrical circuits must be up to the job — and you need to plan ahead. Do you want ethernet cable to every room to ensure uninterrupted Wi-Fi (or perhaps just living spaces and bedrooms)? Will you want speakers in each room or a security system?

Full rewires usually happen when homes are empty, but for hardened homeowners it is possible to live in one room while having works happen around you. If you can’t move out, then dust-cover furniture and expensive items, preferably moving electrical equipment into a separate room, as this is not your electrician’s responsibility. Get your electrician to install the new consumer unit and prep your habitable room with a temporary supply of sockets.

How Much Does Rewiring a House Cost?

The cost of rewiring, including first and second fix with standard sockets and switches and excluding light fittings, should be around £1,000-£1,500 for a kitchen extension. The UK average cost for rewiring a three-bed semi is £3,500; the price will vary depending on where you live. Other variables include the size of the house, how accessible/empty the property is and the complexity and standard of the finish.

Very often, a full rewire can be avoided, however; providing the existing cabling is sound and able to carry any additional loads, it also may be possible to upgrade it by adding a modern consumer unit, proper earthing arrangements and cross bonding.

How Long Does Rewiring a House Take?

A kitchen rewire may take two days, a three-bed semi probably two days to first fix, then the same again to second fix. A larger property will take much longer.

At What Stage Does Rewiring a House Take Place?

If rewiring work is required, it should be undertaken at first fix stage (before plastering), at the same time as any central heating and plumbing work. New cabling cannot be surface mounted and so the installation will involve lifting the floor coverings and floorboards and possibly the skirting boards too, routing out channels in the walls and possibly in some ceilings that are inaccessible from above. All of this work will cause major disruption and so it is best not to try and live around the work if possible.

As well as installing new cabling, first fix stage will involve fitting new back boxes for all sockets and switches. In addition to rewiring for all power and lighting circuits, it is a good opportunity to rewire for modern central heating controls, alarms, smoke detectors and doorbells, to add outdoor lighting and sockets, and to rewire the telephones and television aerial sockets. It is also worth redesigning the wiring plan for sockets and switches to make sure it meets your needs and those of modern house buyers.

Think about specifying two-way or even three-way switching for hallways and landings and other rooms with more than one main access. For a high-value property, consider adding a separate 2 amp circuit with separate switching for table and standard lamps in the main living rooms and principal bedrooms. It may also be worth considering adding automated lighting, home network cablings, speaker cabling and other modern technology.

If the mains connection and meter needs moving, this will have to be undertaken by the local electricity utility company. There will be a charge and several weeks notice will be needed.

Once the first fix stage has been completed, the property can be re-plastered or the walls and ceilings filled and made good, and the flooring replaced. The second fix work can then proceed fitting electrical sockets and switch plates, light fittings, the consumer unit and wiring any electric fans, cookers, extractor hoods, electric showers and the immersion heater, if there is a hot water storage cylinder.

If you are working on a period building using vernacular materials, such as oak frame, cob or solid stonework, make sure your electrician is aware of this and has worked on such buildings.

Checking Earth Bonding

Earth bonding, also known as equipotential bonding and cross bonding, is essential for any electrical installation to be safe. Even if your renovation project does not require rewiring, make certain that the kitchen and bathrooms are earth bonded. Earth bonding will ensure that if a fault should occur causing the metal plumbing, bath, taps, radiators or boiler casing to become live, i.e. for current to flow through them, this will not lead to electrocution.

The reason the lack of earth bonding is often missed is because it does not affect the functioning of the electrical circuits in the house. To see if your project has been earth bonded, look underneath the sink or bath for metal clamps around the copper pipes with green and yellow striped earth cable attached. All pipes in and out of the boiler and heating systems need earth bonding.

If you are building with plastic pipe instead of copper, you do not need to earth appliances but you have to earth the mains stopcock. If this is not the case, then arrange for this work to be done as it is a crucial safety requirement.

Electrics in Wet Areas

There are special restrictions on electrical work in wet areas where there is the greatest danger of electrocution. No power sockets are allowed other than shaver sockets, which must be located away from the splash zone from showers. Switches within a bathroom design should be pull-cord operation, or IR-type switches powered by battery or with just a very lowvoltage signal cable, such as Cat5e.

Electrical appliances to be used in wet or damp places (except shaver points), including electric showers, lighting and ventilation fans, must have levels of moisture and mechanical protection, known as IP or Ingress Protection numbers. The IP rating has the letters IP followed by two characters. The first specifies the degree of protection against particles or solid objects. The second specifies the degree of protection against liquids.

The best bathroom lighting may not have the highest IP rating for all areas, as the designs of this lighting becomes more limited the more ingress protection required. 

The I.E.E. Wiring regulations (BS 7671: 2001 Section 601) has mandatory requirements for areas containing a bath or shower. These safety standards are measured in zones, with the requirements for each zone being based on the perceived degree of risk of electric shock. There are four zone categories: 0, 1, 2 and 3.

Zone 0: Inside the bath or shower. Any fittings used here must be SELV (max 12V) and be rated IPX7 (protected against immersion in water).

Zone 1: Above the bath or shower to a height of 2.25m. A minimum rating of IPX4 is required.

Zone 2: The area stretching to 0.6m outside the bath or shower and above the bath or shower if over 2.25m. An IP rating of at least IPX4 is required.

Zone 3: Anywhere outside zones 0, 1 and 2. Where water jets are not to be used for cleaning purposes, the general rules of BS7671 apply. For detailed information, refer to the I.E.E. Wiring regulations (BS 7671: 2001 Section 601).

For the latest I.E.E. regulations visit www.theiet.org

Can I Rewire my House Myself?

DIY electrical work, rewiring work and alterations to electrical installations are covered by the Building Regulations Part P: Electrical Safety. You can still undertake minor additions or alterations to existing circuits, such as adding a new socket or light fitting without having to make a Building Regulations application, providing it is not in a wet area, such as a kitchen or bathroom, outdoors, or connected directly into the consumer unit. Repairs, replacements and maintenance work are not notifiable.

You can still undertake other rewiring work yourself too, including in wet areas, but you must make a Building Regulations application (current cost around £150 including inspection fee) and arrange to have the work inspected both before and after completion by a qualified electrician registered with one of the competent persons schemes. They will check the work complies with the regulations and issue a safety certificate. Not all electricians offer this service and many are not prepared to sign off someone else’s work. There is a risk with this approach, both from a safety and a financial perspective.

Remember that the wiring regulations require all cables buried in walls to run either vertically or horizontally from sockets. This really helps the follow-on trades who may be screwing fixings into walls for curtain rails, radiators, shelving or kitchen units. Some amateurs run cable at angles across walls in order to save a little cable without realising the potential danger this may cause.

Finding an Electrician to Carry out Your Wiring

Like many trades, the electrician’s job is split into first and second fix.

• First fix involves all of the wiring, including circuits and back boxes for power, lighting (indoors and out), shavers, hard-wired burglar alarms, smoke detectors and doorbells, plus telephone, television, data, speaker, central heating controls and other hidden cabling.
• Second fix involves connecting up the consumer unit, adding light fittings, faceplates for switches and sockets, connecting the boiler, immersion heater and central heating controls.

Electricians usually prefer to work on a supply-and-fix basis, meaning they provide labour and materials (wiring, back boxes etc.). For at least the first fix stage, many electrical wholesalers will only sell to the trade. For second fix, most electricians will be happy for you to supply your own sockets, switches and light fittings, although you must let them know that you intend to do this.

Electricians usually work to a fixed price, although it is usual to agree rates for each additional power point, switch or light fitting added. The price will be calculated using measured rates according to how long they expect the work to take, how many circuits there are and the number of power points, light fittings and switches.

They will also take into account whether the work is a new build or extension, in which case they can just face-fix the circuits, or a renovation, in which case they may have to lift floors and chase out plasterwork to conceal the wiring which, therefore, takes longer and costs more.

You can try and keep costs down with a friendly electrician by prepping everything for them, such as chasing out plasterwork, lifting floorboards and generally making access easy to save time. As long as both you and your electrician are aware at the start of works of the division of tasks, the competent renovator can chase plaster out to exactly where they want sockets and switches, buy the switches, sockets and lighting and maybe even assist with the installation.

Useful contacts

• British Standards Institution
• Electrical Safety First
• ELECSA
• NAPIT Certification
• NICEIC Certification Services (Authorised competent person self-certification schemes for installers who can do electrical work only if it is necessary when they are carrying out other work)
• CORGI
• OFTEC (Oil Firing Technical Association)
• Lighting Direct 2U

While underfloor heating was once considered mainly an option for new builds or extensions, developments in product ranges and technology means it's now a viable option for heating your home even when renovating.

And, as well as being efficient and effective – offering a consistent heat throughout a room – it also offers aesthetic advantages such as freeing up wall space without the need for radiators.

However, with a variety of types available, how do you decide which is the best option for your particular project? Based on expert advice from Tim Pullen and those in the industry, we take a thorough look at underfloor heating so you can weigh up the pros, cons and understand which one best suits the needs of you and the construction of your home.

How does underfloor heating work?

Underfloor heating in either of its forms involves running a system of pipes or wires underneath the floor of a room. This effectively transforms the entire floor into one huge heat emitter that warms up the space.

Unlike radiators, which work by heating the air around them through convection, underfloor heating (UFH) uses both convection and radiant heat to warm a space. This combination of heating methods results in a consistent temperature which can be improved further by the addition of a good underfloor heating thermostat and and well-planned zones.

Heating from the ground up, also not only results in better comfort levels, but also puts less of a strain on your boiler when compared to traditional radiator systems. This is because of the lower operating temperature (around 40°C) of underfloor heating – radiator systems usually operate at around 65°C.

In fact, UFH is actually closer to being a ‘radiator’ than a radiator is. It heats the mass of the floor (the screed and the floor finish) and that heat then (mostly) radiates into the room – there is some convection going on but over 80% of heat transfer is by radiation.

It is also useful to note that underfloor heating is great when used in combination with renewable technology, such as heat pumps, which have a low flow rate.

Types of underfloor heating

There are two main types of underfloor heating:

• Wet underfloor heating
• Electric underfloor heating

In basic terms, a wet underfloor heating system features pipes, filled by warm water. Underfloor heating and boilers is one scenario, but underfloor heating with heat pumps is becoming an increasingly popular option. These pipes are typically embedded within a floor screed.

This is the best type of underfloor heating for those building from scratch and/or planning a whole-house system. However, there are also different types of wet underfloor heating depending on the type of floor you have and how it is constructed.

Wet underfloor heating: Your options

Wet underfloor heating comes in two different formats which means that asking how to install underfloor heating will give you two different answers, depending on whether you are building new, or relaying your floor from scratch.

• Buried underfloor heating: This system involves placing the pipes into the floor screed. The floor screed is finished, the pipes buried and the different zones are controlled by the underfloor heating manifold. This is the most efficient wet UFH system, but better suited to extensions and new builds where new floor screeds are required.
• Surface mounted underfloor heating: Also known as low profile systems, ths method involves specialist products that have warm water pipes installed in insulated panels. They are designed to be low profile, adding just 1.5cm to the floor level, making them more suitable for retro-fitting – as long as the increased floor level doesn't impact head space.

Electric underfloor heating: A good option for single rooms or retrofits

Wondering when you might need to consider electric underfloor heating instead? Simon Cook, head of sales at Nu-Heat explains that it generally comes down to the size and space you're looking to heat.

"Electric and wet underfloor heating systems are both great solutions when applied in the right scenarios," he says, "but while wet underfloor heating is an extremely efficient and effective whole house heating solution when paired with a bespoke design, it can require a larger upfront investment to install.

"Electric underfloor heating on the other hand is slightly cheaper to install, but far more costly to run. And, while it has a great response time, electric underfloor heating does lose heat a lot faster than warm water UFH. Therefore, it is best suited to small spaces such as kitchens or bathrooms."

Underfloor heating controls

The majority of underfloor heating system controls feature two main parts:

• A digital zone control that determines the temperature of each room/area
• The underfloor heating manifolds and valves that the zone control operates

The zone control will be placed somewhere where the homeowner can make adjustments, while the underfloor heating manifolds will be placed out of the way – under the stairs or in a cupboard – so as to be unobtrusive.

There is no regular maintenance regime associated with underfloor heating, although knowing how to bleed underfloor heating can help ensure it's working to the best efficiency. If things do go wrong, it will typically be with the heating control systems rather than the system itself. In both electric and wet systems, you'll need to consider the best underfloor heating thermostats to make sure you have the required amount of control over your heating.

It's also important to understand what temperature underfloor heating should be set at to ensure you are getting the best out of your system and managing your energy as wisely as possible.

Pros and cons of underfloor heating

What are the advantages of underfloor heating?

Although underfloor heating is a popular option when self building, it can be harder to decide when it comes to choosing it for a renovation project or extension in a house that already has a radiator led system.

However, the experts say it's a matter that needs serious consideration when you way up radiators vs UFH.

"While most homes in the UK are still reliant on traditional radiator systems, they aren't the best solution for everyone," says Simon Cook. "Of course, a key advantage to radiators is that they are already installed in most homes and so are familiar to most and can be simple to upgrade.

"But, before you decide to stick with radiators though, there are some major drawbacks to consider," he suggests.

"Radiators heat through convection, and as well as this leading to uncomfortable cold spots and draughts, the air circulation can also worsen conditions for allergy sufferers by spreading dust and allergens, all while taking up valuable wall space," says Simon.

"In contrast, although underfloor heating can involve a higher initial investment and may require a slight adjustment period, it offers numerous benefits for health, efficiency, and comfort," he notes.

"Underfloor heating warms the room evenly from the floor up through radiant heat, making it 25% more efficient than radiators and up to 40% more efficient when combined with a heat pump.

"And of course, UFH saves valuable wall space as it is neatly concealed beneath the floor," he adds, "eliminating the design restrictions created by radiators, giving you complete design freedom."

Of course, each decision to install UFH or radiators will be dictated property by property, room by room, depending on heat loss and whether the output from an underfloor heating system is larger than this loss figure.

It's also worth noting that underfloor heating systems have a lifespan of 50 years plus, while the average radiator will only last between 8-12 years before becoming inefficient.

A wet underfloor heating system is estimated to be 25% cheaper to run than radiators when attached to a modern boiler and 40% cheaper when attached to a heat pump. Electric underfloor heating is believed to be around three times more expensive than wet systems however, as electricity is more expensive.

What are the cons of underfloor heating?

Of course there are also downsides of UFH to consider – particularly if you plan to retrofit underfloor heating.

• Underfloor heating is more expensive to install than a comparable radiator system
• Installation time can be longer, especially with wet UFH. Even electric underfloor heating may require work to self level before installation
• When retrofitting underfloor heating, changes to floor height will need to be considered. This may require extra work in digging out the floor for a level profile
• Not all floor coverings will work as well with UFH

Underfloor heating and renovations

In a new build, the extra cost of underfloor heating relative to the whole build cost is seldom a deal breaker.

However, if you're looking to retrofit underfloor heating in a renovation project, it can be disruptive and expensive as it often involves taking up floors that may otherwise be best left alone, or raising the floor level, which may have implications on the joinery (doors, skirting etc).

Low-profile systems tend to have smaller diameter pipes and run at a higher temperature. This means that the floor will heat up and cool down far more quickly than conventional underfloor heating.

Where underfloor heating is added to an existing radiator system then a different control system will be needed. Luckily, wireless underfloor heating thermostats (some of which can be controlled with a phone app) make installation far easier.

It is often a good idea to install electric underfloor heating in a small, single area like a bathroom or en suite, where it may be difficult to install wet underfloor heating.

It is worth noting that one of the most common – and worst – uses for electric underfloor heating is in a conservatory. Typically these areas need a lot of heat and are used for relatively long periods of the day (compared to a bathroom, for example). This means that running costs become an issue and the extra trouble and expense of a wet system may be well worthwhile.

Choosing the best flooring to use with underfloor heating

When it comes to choosing the best flooring for underfloor heating, there are a number of options available – some more suitable than others.

Although underfloor heating with tiles is one of the most popular combinations, there are pros and cons and specific requirements for other options such as UFH with laminate flooring and wooden flooring with underfloor heating.

Likewise, while underfloor heating with carpet can be considered, it won't be as efficient as when used with harder materials such as ceramic and porcelain tiles, luxury vinyl tiles and natural stone flooring.

Concrete is a superb heat conductor, so polished concrete floors also work really well with underfloor heating as the thermal mass of your concrete will retain heat and ensure your room stays warm for longer after your heating is switched off than would be the case with a radiator system. They are easy to pour over the pipework and they absorb and hold the heat produced well. Seek the advice of your installer before switching your underfloor heating on though – too soon and it could crack.

Most retailers will specify whether a flooring will work with underfloor heating, so look for that as your first guide when choosing what you will use to cover the floor.

FAQs

Should I leave underfloor heating on all the time?

Understanding how long does it take underfloor heating to warm up will help guide you towards the best way to run your heating.

With a wet system it can take two or three hours to warm up, so it is better to leave it turned on if you or your family are inside the house and need to keep warm.

To save costs, you can adjust the temperature instead, to make it lower during night time or times when you might not be using the space.

With electric underfloor heating meanwhile, the floor can heat up much quicker. The heating costs depend on how many kilowatts hours (kWh) of electricity you use and this will be more, the longer the heating is turned on or the more watts the underfloor heating uses. For a 125W system turned on for an hour, for example, this will use 1KWh for every eight square metres of electric underfloor heating

How thick should underfloor heating screed be?

The thickness of the floor screed during your installation process will make all the difference. The screed thickness in which the warm wet pipes sit will have a dramatic impact on how the system is used.

A thick screed will give a longer reaction time (the time taken to warm up and cool down), while a thin screed will have a quicker reaction time.

Which is right and best will depend on the construction of the house, your occupation habits and how the underfloor heating system is to be used, however, the following offers some guidance:

• If the pipes are housed in the concrete floor slab, this should be 150mm thick and give a reaction time of over four hours. In this situation, it is best to run the system all day, at a lower room temperature – say 15°C or 16°C – to provide background heating to the whole house. Highlight heating, such as a log burning stove, is a good idea in the rooms that are occupied
• A standard sand and cement screed would typically be 65mm to 75mm thick and the underfloor heating could take upwards of two hours to heat the room or cool down. This situation may be well-suited to rooms where we spend a lot of time, such as lounge or kitchen, but might be less acceptable in a guest bedroom
• With thinner flow screeds, we might expect a thickness of 35mm to 40mm and a reaction time of around 30 to 40 minutes – the system can be run in a similar way to a radiator system. Flow screeds offer better thermal conductivity than sand and cement, and being thinner and lighter means that they can be suitable for both renovations and new builds

How much does underfloor heating raise floor levels?

Underfloor heating will usually raise the profile of the floor. The amount it is raised by will depend on a number of factors such as how much insulation you need to add, pipe size, and whether you need a screed and floor finish.

There are also some products that get ‘carved’ into an existing screed, in which case there would be no additional build up other than the final floor finish.

If you want to retrofit a wet water system or have concerns about excavating or raising the floor, then low profile systems are a good option. "These have the advantage of coming in different heights and designs which allows them to be installed relatively quickly and easily on most substrates without impacting on the floor to ceiling height of the room," says Mark Dowdeswell, Senior Category Manager at Uponor.

Where should I buy underfloor heating?

Ultimately, the efficiency and success of an underfloor heating system will depend on the quality and design. Choosing a supplier who offers a good design service and aftercare is important. A specialist underfloor heating company is often best placed to achieve this.

If the design is wrong it is unlikely that the homeowner will know until they have lived in the house for a whole heating season – by which time it might be too late.

Finally, if you are choosing to pair underfloor heating with an air source heat pump or ground source heat pump, it is a good idea to choose one supply and install company. Both are complex systems and getting the whole heating system to work in perfect harmony is essential to a warm and toasty home.

Now you understand the basics of underfloor heating types and how it could work in your project, find out what you can expect to pay for underfloor heating costs, including installation and projected running costs.

In the heat pumps vs gas boiler debate, you're looking at very different technologies that are effectively delivering the same result: hot water and central heating. That's pretty much where the similarities end.

With the government heralding both air source heat pumps and ground source heat pumps as the successors to gas boilers as part of its Boiler Upgrade Scheme, it's the right time to be weighing up your options and how these two systems compare.

Here we examine the pros and cons of each so that you can make an informed choice about whether or not to replace your gas boiler with a heat pump, and what you should be thinking about if you are considering making the switch.

Heat pumps vs gas boilers: The key differences

To the homeowner, heat pumps and gas boilers create the same result, but the difference is in the way the two technologies work, meaning that they need to have a different design setup when it comes to how heat is delivered to the property.

While a gas boiler burns gas to heat water, a heat pump operates off electricity, sourcing heat from the external environment, either the ground, as in the case of ground source heat pumps, or from the air in the case of an air source heat pump. The heat is then compressed to increase the temperature and then used to heat water stored in a tank. Other differences include:

• Gas boilers provide heat quickly, usually between 70°C and 80°C, with a simple on/off mechanism and regulation via a thermostat. A boiler can thus work with radiators with a very high temperature
• Heat pumps meanwhile provide a more steady supply of heat of between 35°C and 55°C. The low temperature of the heat pump means that the emitter, for example underfloor heating, ideally needs to have a much larger surface area as well as the home being well insulated
• Heat pumps are generally much more efficient than gas boilers and last five to ten years longer before they need to be replaced. However, they do take much longer to install than gas boilers. For this reason, it is better to install a heat pump in summer than in winter, because the gas boiler will need to be switched off in the interim
• Heat pumps also, currently, tend to be a lot more expensive than gas boilers, although there are grants available from the government, the Boiler Upgrade Scheme for instance, to make them cheaper

1. Efficiency

Heat pumps are much more efficient than gas boilers. Despite the efficiency of boilers having improved to 94% over recent years due to new technology, heat pumps are around 300%-400% efficient, meaning that they will produce 3-4 times more heat than gas boilers for every kilowatt of electricity used by the heat pump.

"Heat pumps use electricity to function, and produce significantly fewer green house gas emissions as they are 3 to 4 times more efficient than gas, oil or LPG boilers and direct electric heating," say the experts at E.ON Next. They add that replacing your boiler with a heat pump can therefore help you to contribute to a cleaner and greener environment.

The efficiency of a heat pump is known as the Coefficient of Performance (CoP) which is the ratio of the amount of electricity used to the amount of heat produced. As an example, if the heat pump uses 1kWh of electricity and produces 3 kWh of heat, then the CoP is 3 or can also be referred to as a 300% efficiency.

Another advantage of air source heat pumps is that they can operate at high efficiency even in colder weather, according to data obtained by the Electrification of Heat Demonstration Project initiated by the Department for Energy Security and Net Zero (DESNZ).

The Electrification of Heat Demonstration Project also found that the median air source heat pump efficiency on the coldest days of the year was 2.44 (244 percent), representing only a minimal decline in efficiency during the colder half of the year.

2. Integration with radiators and UFH

A boiler system may be designed to run at an average flow temperature of 70°C, but the temperature difference between the water going into the radiator and the water coming out of the radiator is 10°C. This in effect means the water goes into the radiator at say 75°C and comes out at 65°C, having given up 10°C.

Gas boilers also work well with underfloor heating (UFH), but newer combi boilers will have to be adjusted slightly with the addition of a two-way valve so that they can run central heating and UFH separately. The boiler will also have to match the size of the UFH system, because if the boiler is underpowered it will take a long time to heat up properly, while an overpowered gas boiler will waste excess energy and increase your household energy bills.

A heat pump system ideally wants to have an average temperature of around 37.5°C and a temperature difference of only 5°C. Therefore the water goes into the UFH or radiator at say 40°C and comes out at 35°C, having given up 5°C.

Ultimately, if you opt for a heat pump rather than a gas boiler, you will need to size the radiators and/or UFH pipe lengths very precisely. You will also need to be able to control the speed of the water in the circuit as well as the delivery of heat to the circuit. The balance is critical and certainly not always possible in older or 'energy hungry' properties.

So, if you ask yourself 'should I swap my gas boiler for a heat pump?', you need to be aware that you'll likely need to update your existing radiators and pipework, as well as your heat source, in an existing home.

3. Installation

Expect to pay around £14,000 for air source heat pump installation costs – not including any grants from the BUS. You're looking at from around £13,000 to £30,000 for ground source heat pump costs, and possibly more if you need a large borehole collector.

Meanwhile, you can expect a standard combi new boiler cost to be between £1,000-£2,000 depending on the make and model. Installation will cost approximately another £1,000, making the cost all-in £2,000 to £3,000 for a simple gas boiler replacement.

4. Running costs

As heat pumps run on electricity and a boiler burns gas, the running cost comparison needs to take into account the unit costs of each fuel. Electricity will cost 24.5p per kWh from October 2024 with a 60.99p standing charge while natural gas will cost 6.24p with a 31.66p standing charge.

This means that on pure financial cost alone, the heat pump would need a CoP between 3 and 5, or in other words, have an efficiency of between 300% to 500%, to be comparable.

But as the cost of electricity and the cost of gas change, as well as improvements to heat pump technology, so will this calculation. You also need to be sure that the system will indeed achieve the indicated efficiencies. One thing is for sure though. The cost of energy will continue to rise and the gap between the cost of electricity and the cost of gas is sure to close.

At the moment the switch from gas to a heat pump may not make financial sense, but as the energy cost gap closes, the numbers will certainly become more favourable for heat pumps.

5. Space

Gas boilers don’t require as much space as heat pumps, especially when it comes to newer combi boilers in contrast to older boilers with a hot water tank. This means that in smaller properties, a combi boiler might be the better option. Installing a ground source heat pump requires outdoor space for a heat loop beneath the ground, or a vertical borehole, while air source heat pumps require at least 3.5 metres of space outside the property and enough space for a hot water cylinder inside the property.

The size of the property is also important. For a property of 100 square metres, you will need a heat pump of at least 5 kilowatts. For a property of 300 square metres, you will need a 16 kilowatt heat pump.

6. Lifespan and replacements

Heat pumps have a long lifespan, usually 20-25 years, whereas the average life of a gas boiler is around 15 years. This is because they have a much simpler design, whereas components in a gas boiler will start to fail after 10-12 years, most likely the compressor, which will burn out over time.

With regard to the advice on how to maintain a heat pump, air source heat pumps require an annual service from a qualified engineer every year in a similar way to your gas boiler.

FAQs

What types of properties are most suitable for heat pumps and for gas boilers? 

The slow heat that is required to optimise a heat pump means they are often best suited to a very well insulated building due to the gradual build up of the temperature over a long period of time.

It is generally accepted that a ground source heat pump is better suited to larger properties, while either an air source heat pump or ground source heat pump is suitable for properties under around 300m2.

Boilers are better suited to producing rapid heat in older, less efficient buildings. They can also be designed into systems where they can deliver low temperature heat in a similar way to a heat pump - meaning they can work alongside underfloor heating.

In a self build scenario, Building Regulations is moving towards low temperature emitters, which will be more compatible with heat pump systems.

In an existing home, however, things become a little more challenging. The cost of retrofitting a heat pump into an existing home is comparatively more than working with a new build. You can find out more about which type may be better for you in is my home suitable for a heat pump.

When is the best time to install a heat pump?

The best time to install a heat pump is when your existing heating system, probably a gas boiler, is reaching the end of its useful life. Ideally, you would do this in the summer, because the gas boiler will have to be turned off while the new heating system is being installed. Summer is also the time when the heating industry is less busy, so there will be a greater chance of you being able to book in a heating engineer for exactly the time and date you want the heat pump installed.

Another consideration is the Boiler Upgrade Scheme, which is due to end in 2028. It is therefore worth applying as soon as possible to ensure you don’t miss out on a grant towards the cost of installing the heat pump. There are no such incentive schemes for gas boilers as these are now being phased out.

Can I still buy a gas boiler?

We have recently learned that the target date of when gas boilers will be phased out, known as the gas boiler ban, is 2035, and that the Government will make a decision on the hydrogen strategy by 2026.

If we do indeed see an increase of hydrogen in the gas grid alongside low/zero carbon gas such as synthesis gas or anaerobic digestion, then the boilers won’t be a problem as it is currently the fuel that is carbon intensive rather than the appliance.

Heat pumps are just one gas boiler alternative, there are actually other options that might be worth investigating for your property if you are looking at switching.

Biomass boilers are often looked at for larger properties, while infrared heating and hydrogen-ready boilers might be worth looking at for medium-sized or smaller homes. Solar technology is also improving and hybrid solar panels are probably worth investigating as an alternative heating system for your home too.

No-one wants to step out of a lovely warm shower or bath into an icy cold bathroom — our guide to heating a bathroom is here to make sure that you understand all your heating options so that you can select the right one for you.

We take a look at bathroom heating choices including bathroom radiators, underfloor heating and traditional radiators — and also explain how to calculate how much heat your bathroom will need based on its size and who will be using it.

Choosing your bathroom heating needs to be done early on in your bathroom design to ensure there are no delays later on in the project. 

How is Heating a Bathroom Different to Heating Other Rooms?

Heating a bathroom needs careful consideration for a number of reasons. Bathrooms are quite different many ways from the other rooms in your home — for one they are often smaller. Then there is the fact that they produce high levels of humidity and finally there is small yet not insignificant point that you are likely to be half naked in them for much of the time.

Let your bathroom get too cold and you risk attracting damp and a build up of mould on the walls, ceilings and tiles — a particularly problem in bathrooms with poor home ventilation.   

You will need to carefully consider you bathroom layout in tandem with your bathroom hearing choices — unless you are opting for underfloor heating you will need to think about the best location for your heat source and find a spot that won't clash with windows, doors, mirrors or sanitaryware. 

Bathroom Heating Options Explained

There are several different types of bathroom heating, some of which can be run off your central heating system, others that use the mains electricity supply. The main reason people choose to run their bathroom heating via the electricity supply is so that it can remain warm even in the summer months when the central heating is likely to be turned off. 

In general, when looking at heating a bathroom you will come across these main options: 

• Heated towel rails
• Radiators
• Underfloor Heating
• Fan heaters

What Size Radiator Do I Need?

Your bathroom heating source will need to give off the right amount of heat to ensure that your bathroom is not too cold or too hot. 

It is useful to use a BTU calculator for this — BTU refers to British Thermal Units which is the amount of heat a source emits. You can find many free online BTU calculators. These take into account not only the size of the room, but also the number and type of windows, the location of your bathroom and ceiling height, amongst other things.  

When you choose a bathroom heater, it should state its BTU output. 

Understanding Bathroom Zones

The bathroom is divided into four separate zones based on the risk level of water reaching an electrical supply — an important safety concern. Each of these zones dictates the type of fitting that can be installed here. Carefully consideration to these zones is also required when looking at bathroom lighting ideas.  

Zone 0 is the space inside the bath or shower itself. 

Zone 1 is the space above the shower or bath to a height of 2.25m from the floor. 

Zone 2 reaches 0.6m outside the bath's perimeter and 2.25m from the floor. 

Outside Zones Anywhere beyond Zones 0,1 and 2 and where no water jet will be employed. 

Is a Heated Towel Rail Enough to Heat a Bathroom?

As well as being a practical bathroom heating option, providing somewhere to hang and dry wet towels and robes, but the right heated towel rail will also act as an effective heat source — providing you purchase one with the correct BTU output for your space. 

Large bathrooms may well require another heat source (such as underfloor heating) in addition to a towel rail as they do tend to 'spot heat'. 

There are a huge number of different styles heated towel rails available — from tall, narrow designs that suit small bathrooms, to long horizontal models.

Electric Bathroom Heaters

There are several types of bathroom heater that rely on electricity. Electric towel warmers are a popular option that can remain on all year round, even when the central heating is off.

Fan heaters are another option — they are operated much like an extractor fan with a simple wall switch. While they are good for a quick blast of heat on a chilly morning, the don't retain heat and can be expensive to run. 

Underfloor Heating in the Bathroom

Underfloor heating is a hugely popular option in bathrooms of all shapes and sizes. It is a brilliant choice of heating for this space as it means bare feet are kept toasty, wet floors quickly dry out and there is no need to find wall or floor space for a radiator. 

Larger bathrooms in particular can benefit from underfloor heating as a single towel warmer is often not enough to heat the space — particularly once it is covered in towels. 

There are several different types of underfloor heating. A 'dry' or electric underfloor heating system runs off electrical wiring and is a good, less disruptive option, for retrofitting. 

A wet underfloor heating system involves a series of pipes run within the floor heated via hot water. This type of system tends to best when installed in a self build or complete bathroom renovation project. 

Many people who opt for underfloor heating in the bathroom will also have a towel warmer.  

Bathroom Heating Costs

Bathroom heaters such as towel warmers and fan heaters tend to be cheaper to buy and install initially when compared to underfloor heating. However, underfloor heating does tend to work out as a more efficient way of heating when viewed long term due to the lower temperatures needed to heat a whole space and its ability to distribute heat more evenly than other bathroom heat sources.  

For the right project, infrared heating might just be the solution to your home heating issues. Often found in infrared panels in residential properties, this type of heating operates in a different way than most other kinds of space heating, but it's real value is in it's easy-to-install characteristics, offering a budget-friendly option for retrofitting or adding additional heating to a space. 

But how effective is infrared heating? And what kind of projects does it suit? Energy and sustainability expert David Hilton examines the technology and offers his verdict. 

What is Infrared Heating?

Infrared heating panels, also referred to as radiant heating panels, or far infrared panels, are electric heating emitters that use the radiant heat spectrum to target heat in specific areas. The heat is very similar to the feeling you get from the sun when it peeps out from behind a cloud on a cold day. 

Infrared heaters can be used as whole house solutions or as complementary heaters that work alongside an alternative heating, or central heating, system to provide a boost or provide heat in hard to heat areas. 

Infrared heating panels use radiant heat and as such they are specifically designed to heat objects rather than the air, so in certain cases a good insulation level is not always required. 

According to manufacturers such as Herschel and Jigsaw, we usually feel warm when we are absorbing heat from the environment and feel cold if we are radiating cold out to the environment. So if we warm the walls, ceilings and floor of the room rather than the air our bodies will stop perceiving that we are losing heat and feel warm. 

Is Infrared Heating Energy Efficient?

Infrared heaters are 100% efficient, which means what you put in is what you get out. That in itself may not sound very good when the percentages are compared to other heating technologies, but according to the manufacturers it is more about how the heat is used that makes it efficient. 

Studies also conducted by the manufacturers indicate that it takes around 40W/m3 to heat air with convection due to the poor heat transfer to, and from, the air, but because infrared does not heat the air the heat requirement from a well designed infrared system is only around 25W/m3.

What Types of Infrared Heating Panels are There?

Infrared heaters have a number of different emitter solutions. Some will deliver heat further away from the emitter but in a narrower ‘stream’ and others may have a very wide effective area but cannot project that far. The emitters can also be manufactured in many different forms. 

There are thin flat panels that can be coloured to match your paint scheme and the panels can be mounted on the ceiling (very useful in a bathroom for intermittent additional heat) or on the wall. They can be crafted to look like paintings, mirrors or sometimes even applied to the ceiling as a fabric-like mesh and simply plastered over, or there are products that can be applied to glass as a clear film. 

External infrared heaters are usually the more focused type and as such may have a slightly more industrial look but they will also be weather protected and are useful external entertainment areas to just give that extra feeling or warmth. 

What are the Advantages of Infrared Heating?

Affordability is one of the biggest pulls of infrared heating. The capital cost of putting in the system is a lot lower than a traditional central heating system, especially when you consider the pipework, radiators, underfloor heating and the heat generator — this may be a gas boiler, but it could also be a much more expensive solution such as an oil boiler with an oil tank and groundworks infrastructure, or even an air source or ground source heat pump. 

In an existing building these costs can be exponentially higher when we take into account any upgrades to the existing radiator system as well as any new pipework and wiring that will need to be routed through the home. Any qualified electrician can fit the infrared panels, a lot of the time to existing wiring, and being as there is no wet heating system, or moving parts, no motorised valves, no balancing valves, no antifreeze or inhibitors to periodically check and replace and there is also no requirement for specialist training. 

This argument for affordability needs to consider the whole cost of ownership. When we think of different systems there are some that are cheap to buy but cost a lot to run. Others may have higher capital outlay but lower running costs. Then there are those that seem cheaper to buy, have lower running costs but may only last 7 to 10 years. 

All of these systems need to factor in the installation and maintenance costs but also the cost of replacement. 

What are the Drawbacks of Infrared Heating?

We are often drawn towards infrared heating as a potentially green solution. The idea is that you put solar PV panels on the roof and then use the generated power to heat your home and that you can use battery storage to power the heaters at night. 

Apart from the fact that we do not generate enough power at the time of year when we need heating, we also have the problem that the current solar batteries would not be powerful enough to support the heaters. If we sign up to a green electric tariff then it could also be argued that the heat is also green, but then the same argument goes for heat pumps as an alternative.  

Infrared heating only provides space heating. Hot water heating will still need to be specified and as homes become more and more efficient the percentage of our energy that we spend on hot water production will become larger. 

In the home of the future, cars will use the most electricity, followed by hot water production, and our home heating will be a significantly lower amount. When this happens, the capital that we invest in heating systems may need to be a lot lower or the whole of life costs will still be high.

How Much Does Infrared Heating Cost?

Standard infrared heating panels cost between £120 and £180 each. However panels with more complex designs will cost between £300 and £500.

And how much do infrared panels cost to run? According to Herschel Infrared, a manufacturer of infrared radiant heating panels, the total cost per year of employing infrared radiant heaters in an 89m2, three-bedroom home is £804. Gas came in cheaper at £608 but electric storage heaters were £1,734 and air source heat pumps systems were £977. 

Is Infrared Heating Worth it?

Many infrared heating products are promoted as whole house heating systems, but do not rush out and buy a load of random products just because they look good or would fit is a specific space. It is important to make sure that the manufacturer specifies the right products for your requirement. They will often need to do heat loss calculations and set up controls and thermostats so that the heat is controlled and managed to deliver a comfortable environment that suits your needs and expectations.

There are mixed reviews of infrared heating, but it seems the negative reviews are partly due to poor quality products, partly due to inexperience or lack of design and also a lack of understanding of what the product does and how it works. 

For me the jury is still out as I have not experienced them for long enough, but the total cost of ownership argument is a good one. I do have an infrared heater on the bathroom ceiling for occasional use as a top up when you get out the shower and I also have one in the all important (but uninsulated) barbeque area so I am convinced that this type of heating definitely does work as a complimentary, or supplementary, heating system. In off grid properties, especially those that are harder to treat, perhaps this solution is worth investigating a whole lot more.