"Kitchen islands have long been a centrepiece of modern kitchens, particularly in open-plan spaces where they can help create a natural focal point and bring people together," says Laura Townsend, design manager at Magnet. "But they're not always the best solution, though there's a tendency to assume that every kitchen needs one. The reality is that an island needs to work with the way you use your kitchen, rather than the other way around."

So, rather than you developing a crab-like walk to shuffle past an ill-fitting island sideways, we've rounded up the situations where one might not be such a brilliant idea – and what you should consider instead.

1. Your kitchen doesn't measure up – go small or not at all

The best place to start when you're considering an island is with a tape measure. "The practical minimum size for an island is around 1m x 1m, but this only really works as additional preparation space rather than a fully functioning island," explains Tom Howley, creative design director at the eponymous kitchen company. "To incorporate storage, seating, or appliances comfortably, most designers recommend an island of at least 1m x 2m."

"To accommodate this properly, your kitchen will usually need to be a minimum of 4m x 4.5m. Anything smaller risks compromising circulation, which can quickly make the space feel cramped rather than sociable. And as a general rule, you should always allow at least one metre of walkway space between your island and surrounding cabinetry, walls, or appliances. A successful island should enhance flow and usability, not obstruct it."

If your kitchen doesn't measure up, Tom recommends a freestanding prep table or a portable kitchen island that can be moved depending on the occasion or as the space evolves. "These solutions can still provide valuable workspace and a social focus, particularly in smaller kitchens, without overwhelming the room or restricting movement,” he says.

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2. An island would ruin the flow of the space – switch it for a peninsula

"It's always worth thinking about how you actually use your kitchen day to day," says Laura Townsend. "For example, if you're someone who loves baking, or cooking more elaborate meals, a narrow island might end up becoming more of an obstacle than a useful workspace."

In these cases, Laura often gets her clients to consider a peninsula kitchen, where a run of units projects into your space, while still tethered to the wall units. "You might find that a peninsula works much better, particularly if your kitchen is only open on one side," she says. "It gives you that additional worktop and storage space, but because it's connected to the existing cabinetry, you don't have to worry about navigating around it while cooking."

In the Multiliving Scavolini kitchen below, the position of the brick entrance arch and opposite wall meant that an island might have been tricky to move past – a peninsula keeps the hob and prep zone clear from interruption and its potential visual weight is offset by open kitchen shelving on the front.

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3. An island feels too clinical – try a kitchen table

"Homeowners increasingly want a kitchen to capture the essence of family, of guests and of shared experiences. A room with character, warmth and a sense of life, rather than simply an exercise in cabinetry," explains interior designer Rachel Usher, of Usher & Co Interior Design.

And in her view, that is in conflict with the classic island concept. "The utilitarian kitchen, with its blocks of heavy joinery and slabs of marble or granite, can create cold and soulless spaces," she says. "An island can become a block, a division of space that adds little function while taking something away, creating a huge barrier to movement and visibility."

For her, "a large table that introduces an element of historic character is often more sought after. It offers similar functionality as a place to prepare food, but with a greater sense of lightness," she says. "If it's a reclaimed piece, or designed to look more like a piece of furniture, it can give the room a more collected feel. Less 'builders' merchant' kitchen and a more intellectual approach to the space.

"The island still serves a function, of course. It provides an important preparation space, creates a zone and sometimes houses the sink or hob. But I think the days of the large, monolithic cube in the middle of the kitchen are drawing to an end."

4. You've chosen a statement floor – go for a U-shaped layout

Suppose you have restored parquet flooring or have splashed out on an expensive patterned tile for your kitchen flooring. A large island can hide a surprisingly significant amount of one of the kitchen’s best features, so it’s worth thinking twice before covering it up, particularly if the floor has character, craftsmanship or a price tag that makes it deserved to be seen.

"When homeowners invest in statement terrazzo, large-format porcelain, herringbone timber or decorative stone flooring, I would question why you'd want to conceal that with an island," says Joanne Bull, marketing manager for Königstone.

"In these situations, an open-centre U-shaped kitchen layout with perimeter cabinetry allows the flooring to become a feature in its own right, enhancing the sense of space and showcasing the craftsmanship and material choice throughout the room."

5. It's a room with a view – a peninsula wins again

"Where a kitchen benefits from spectacular garden, countryside or coastal views, an island can unintentionally interrupt sight lines and impede movement through the space," says Joanne Bull.

"In these instances, a peninsula layout can often be a more effective solution. It provides many of the same benefits as an island, including additional worktop space, storage and seating, while maintaining clear circulation routes and preserving the connection between the kitchen and its surroundings."

6. An island doesn't scream 'comfy' – swap it for a kitchen nook

While we don't think the island is about to disappear from our kitchen landscape just yet, some believe there's a shift towards a smaller, softer space within the room... the nook.

A nook can be several things – a built-in banquette beneath a window, a compact breakfast corner with a low table or a quiet spot for morning coffee. The key is that they feel cosy and intimate, unlike a typical open-plan kitchen.

"Changing furniture height has a bigger impact than many people realise. Swapping an island breakfast bar for a lower or higher bench immediately signals a more relaxed, comfortable space that encourages people to stay longer," says Ntola Obazee, creative director for Kutchenhaus.

And because a nook is intended to be a contained area, you're encouraged to experiment with bolder colours than you'd use elsewhere in the kitchen. "Deep greens, earthy terracottas or rich burgundies can add character without overwhelming the space, and painted panelling is far easier to update than replacing cabinetry," suggests Al Bruce, founder of kitchen company Olive & Barr.

7. When you don't actually need the extra worktop – invest in better storage

It's easy to assume that more worktop space means a better kitchen. But an island can quickly become little more than an expensive dumping ground where random kitchenalia, bills and letters, homework, toys and other clutter can quickly pile up.

If your existing worktops are already sufficient, an island may simply create another surface to clean and organise. You're then better off investing in better kitchen storage, like pull-out pantry units, deep drawers and dedicated appliance cupboards.

Q&A

My heart is set on an island – what can I do to make it work better?

Don't get us wrong – an island can work: "The key is to consider access and flow through the kitchen, ensuring there is enough room to move comfortably around the island without disrupting the practical workings of the space," says Elliot Bester, designer of the penthouse at Widmore Park, Inspired Villages’ new retirement village in Oxfordshire.

"The island here works particularly well because it serves multiple purposes, providing additional preparation space, incorporating clever storage solutions and creating a relaxed area for dining and socialising. Making an island multifunctional is especially valuable where space needs to work harder."

"Kitchen island lighting is another important consideration; a statement pendant or carefully positioned feature lighting above the island can create a beautiful focal point, helping to anchor the kitchen and make the island feel like a natural centrepiece of the kitchen."

Are kitchen islands still on trend?

Laura Townsend assures us that kitchen islands are still very much part of kitchen trends, but that people are becoming more experimental with how this style of workstation looks and feels.

"We’re seeing more requests for personalised kitchen design rather than a showroom look, as customers experiment with different finishes and paint combinations," she says. "Dual-toned kitchens are huge crowd-pleaser right now, as they add warmth and depth to your kitchen island and can actually create the illusion of more space. Texture drenching is another technique customers are requesting, where different surfaces and materials, from mixed metals to stone, are introduced to create tactility within the space."

Kitchen island shapes, particularly curves are also making waves she adds. "Bringing these shapes into the kitchen helps create a softer, more relaxed feel, which I think reflects a wider desire to break away from the predictability of everyday life and introduce something more playful and natural. Curved islands are also great for encouraging conversation due to their openness, creating a more sociable space for people to gather."

If you're working with limited space but love the idea of a workstation, these small kitchen island ideas might help you visualise a solution. Or look to these kitchen layout ideas for alternative cabinetry configurations – there's bound to be at least one that will suit your space.

Yet, all too often, the reality is that this is the one space that gets totally overlooked. My own hallway is the least appealing place in the whole house. During our renovation, it was the room where all the leftovers got used up – our hallway flooring was chosen on the basis that we had some slate tiles going spare, the wall colour because we had a half a tin of paint knocking about, and the furniture is just stuff we didn't want anywhere else.

It is the flooring that really lets my hallway down though – it is too dark for the space, bitterly cold underfoot and shows up all manner of dirt. According to the experts, I am not the only one who is guilty of making hallway flooring mistakes though – these are the top six clangers they say to avoid at all costs.

1. Skipping the preparation stage

Before stepping anywhere near the subject of choosing the right types of flooring for your hallway we need to talk about the importance of proper sub-floor preparation – glamorous? No. Necessary? Absolutely.

Skip this stage and the finished result is likely to be a disaster, as Graeme Shelley, managing director at Factory Direct Flooring, explains. "Rushing the prep is a common installation mistake. Before anything goes down, check the subfloor for damage or unevenness, and use a moisture meter to make sure it's dry (aim for a reading below 75%). Scrape off any old paint or glue, then sweep and vacuum thoroughly. If your subfloor has a few minor dips and dents, an underlay can help give it a more stable finish, and one with a moisture barrier is ideal for protecting against damp coming up from below. You should also allow your flooring to acclimatise in the hallway for at least 24 hours before installing it."

Ian Tomlinson, MD at Chaunceys Timber Flooring, goes on to highlight the importance of good prep when installing engineered timber flooring in a hallway.

"Even the best quality timber flooring can develop problems if the subfloor hasn't been prepared properly before installation. It needs to be clean, dry, level and structurally sound, as any unevenness or moisture issues can affect the performance of the finished floor.

"Moisture testing is particularly important because excess moisture can cause timber to move, cup or develop gaps between the boards. Also, as timber is a natural material, it responds to changes in temperature and humidity, which is why the flooring needs to be stored in the correct conditions and allowed to acclimatise in line with the manufacturer's instructions before it is fitted."

2. Choosing flooring purely because it looks good

While there is nothing wrong with choosing your hallway flooring because you love the way it looks, basing your decision on appearance alone is a huge mistake if you want this to be a space that functions well day-to-day.

Graeme Shelley explains why placing the emphasis on practicality is so important, just as when choosing boot room flooring. "It's tempting to pick a floor based on looks alone and forget about how hardworking it needs to be. The hallway is often the first place where things like muddy boots, soggy paws and pushchairs come through. This is why scratch resistance, moisture resistance, and how easy it is to keep clean should be at the top of the list."

If you are considering tiling your hallway, Richard Skeoch, company director at Hyperion Tiles, also points out the importance of it's slip resistance. "Choosing a tile with the right surface finish is important. Highly polished tiles can become slippery when wet so matt or lightly textured porcelain tiles are often a better choice for entrances, offering a good balance between appearance and everyday practicality. Always check the manufacturer's slip resistance information and consider how the space will be used before making your final choice."

3. Failing to consider the spaces beyond the hallway

Designing a home on a room-by-room basis is never the best approach. While each space will have its own specific requirements, thinking more holistically will ensure a good sense of flow and cohesion.

Graeme Shelley reveals that choosing hallway flooring without considering the rest of your home is an error he frequently sees. "Don't think about the hallway in isolation. If you're only replacing your hallway floor, think about how your new floor will sit next to your other rooms' floors. Don't try for an exact match (unless you can get the exact same line of flooring), and avoid near-matches too, because they'll always look a little 'off'.

"Instead, think about something that complements the other floors where the thresholds meet," he suggests. "For example, if your kitchen has a limestone floor, an engineered wood flooring in the hallway with a grain that echoes the darker flecks in the stone will tie the two spaces together beautifully."

Adam Robertson, managing director at Urbane Living, agrees that cohesion should be at the forefront of your mind when selecting the flooring to suit your hallway ideas, particularly in the case of timber.

"It's easy to concentrate on the entrance itself without considering how it will look alongside the adjoining rooms. If the hallway leads straight into a living or dining space, continuing the same timber flooring through both areas can help them feel connected, particularly in open-plan homes.

Alternatively, parquet flooring can introduce a little more pattern and character to the entrance without making it feel too separate from the rest of the house," he notes. "It's worth looking at the flooring as part of the wider scheme, rather than treating the hallway as an entirely separate space."

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4. Selecting patterns and colours that jar with the hallway's proportions

While those beautifully imperfect Zellige tiles may well have caught your fancy, or you just can't get enough of classic chequerboard, choosing patterned flooring without thinking about the space's proportions or natural light levels is a big mistake, as Graeme Shelley explains.

"Patterns like chequerboard and herringbone work brilliantly in hallways, but you need to get the scale right. As a rule of thumb, the larger your hallway, the larger your pattern should be. A small checkerboard that repeats too often will look overwhelming in a grand entrance hall, while a large-scale pattern won't repeat enough in a compact hallway. If you're going with herringbone, the direction matters – the arrows should run down the length of your hallway to draw the eye through the space, rather than across it widthways.

"Colour can also change how a hallway looks and feels," adds Graeme. "If you are hoping to make a small hallway feel bigger, a lighter floor paired with light walls will make your hallway feel more expansive."

Lorna Williams, head of product design and visual creation at Amtico Flooring, has some more pointers on getting scale spot on, particularly in narrow hallways.

"It’s also important not to overlook the proportions of the hallway. Because these spaces are often long and narrow, the size and direction of the flooring can have a real impact on how the room feels. Running planks along the length can draw the eye through the space, while parquet or a geometric pattern can make the floor more of a feature. In a smaller hallway, I’d always look at how much of the floor will actually remain visible once furniture and storage are in place before choosing the scale of the pattern."

5. Thinking short-term rather than focusing on longevity

Even if you think you have chosen a flooring that looks beautiful and offers all the practicality you need, don't forget that it also needs to be super hardwearing – this is a high-traffic space that will really put your flooring through its paces.

The good news is that there are lots of flooring materials that offer brilliant wear-resistance. Richard Skeoch reveals his favourites. "Porcelain is a particularly good option because it is hardwearing, has a low water absorption rate and is easy to keep clean, making it well suited to busy family homes. Natural stone flooring can also work beautifully in a hallway, although it will need the right sealing and ongoing care to protect it from marks and staining. It's also important to check that the tile is suitable for floor use, rather than assuming that every decorative tile can be used underfoot."

If it's wooden flooring you have your eye on, Ian Tomlinson has a few pointers worth bearing in mind. "Engineered wood is often a practical choice for hallways because its layered construction makes it more stable than solid wood when temperatures and humidity levels fluctuate. However, quality can vary considerably between products, so pay attention to the thickness of the real wood top layer, also known as the 'wear layer'.

"Cheaper engineered boards often have a much thinner layer of hardwood, which limits how many times they can be sanded and refinished," he expands. "Investing in a board with a more substantial top layer will give you a floor that can be enjoyed and maintained for much longer. The finish is another consideration, as brushed or textured surfaces can be more forgiving when it comes to everyday marks and wear than a very smooth, highly polished floor."

Graeme Shelley says there are few often-overlooked flooring options to consider too. "Waterproof laminate now uses new technology that prevents water from seeping through the joins between planks. LVT (luxury vinyl tile) and SPC (stone plastic composite, which is a type of LVT) are also perfect for a hallway – they're both water and scratch-resistant and very easy to keep clean."

6. Underestimating maintenance requirements

The final of the flooring mistakes to avoid in a hallways concerns the need for good maintenance – failing to look after your new floor is a fast-track to it quickly looking scruffy or suffering from damage.

"Hallway floors can take a lot of punishment, particularly during the wetter months when mud, grit and moisture are regularly brought in from outside, so keeping on top of cleaning is important if you want the flooring to stay looking good," picks up Adam Robertson. "A good quality doormat at the entrance will catch much of the dirt before it reaches the floor, while regular sweeping or vacuuming will remove grit that could otherwise scratch the surface.

"Different flooring materials and finishes also have different cleaning requirements, so avoid using a general household cleaner without checking that it's suitable for the floor," adds Adam. "For timber, using the recommended cleaning products and following the manufacturer's maintenance advice will help protect the finish and keep it looking good over the years."

Richard Skeotch also points out the importance of those smaller elements that make up a floor that can contribute to it's maintenance requirements. "Grout is a detail that is often overlooked, but in a busy hallway it can make a real difference to how easy the floor is to maintain.

"When grouting floor tiles, choose a colour that works with the tile, rather than a very pale shade that will quickly show dirt, can help keep the floor looking good between cleans," he suggests. "Using the correct grout and sealing products for the particular tile will also help protect the finished floor over time."

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FAQs

Which flooring materials are a bad idea in the hallway?

While there is a really wide range of materials that work brilliantly in a hallway, it is worth noting which types of flooring are best avoided before beginning your search.

"Carpet is one I'd steer away from," warns Graeme Shelley. "When we swabbed floors around the home, we found mould on every type of carpet we tested, even when it wasn't visible to the naked eye, and the hallway carpet was worst for it. This is understandable, given how much traffic it can get in a single day.

"Standard laminate flooring and solid wood aren't completely off the table for hallways, but there are more sensible choices for hallways that regularly see dripping umbrellas and wet boots," adds Graeme. "That's because too much moisture can cause these floor types to swell and warp."

Time for a kitchen refresh too? Make sure you check out the worst types of flooring for kitchens before you invest in something that won't do your new space justice.

But that first winter taught me a few lessons the hard way, from why the room filled with smoke whenever I opened the door to just how many logs I'd get through in my pursuit of a toasty evening at home.

Here are the five things I wish I’d known before installing my log burning stove, and the expert advice that’s helped me put things right.

1. Opening up a fireplace is a building project in itself

I'd pictured our installer simply sliding the stove into our old fireplace, but in reality, opening it up was a building job in its own right, with plenty of rubble and a surprising amount of dust.

Old fireplaces have often been bricked up, boarded over or filled in over the years, and you won't know what's behind them until you actually start work. You might find a cracked or missing lintel above the opening that needs replacing (ask me how I know) or a recess that has to be enlarged before your chosen stove will fit.

It's also worth checking what's above, too. In many older homes, the chimney breast has been removed in an upstairs room, leaving the stack supported on brackets or steelwork. If that's the case in your house, ask a structural engineer to confirm it was done properly before you put a working stove underneath it.

Finally, budget time and money for making good. Once the stove was in, our chimney breast needed replastering, and the whole room needed redecorating once the dust had settled.

2. There's a knack to lighting and refuelling a stove

I’d assumed lighting a stove would be much like lighting an open fire: a firelighter, some kindling, a few logs and I’d be away. Instead, I ran into all sorts of stove problems, not least a puff of smoke drifting into the room every time I opened the door.

Phil Wood, UK managing director at Contura, explains why this was happening. "A cold chimney can struggle to create the natural draught needed to draw smoke upwards, while insufficient oxygen or damp logs can prevent the fire from reaching an efficient burning temperature."

The fix starts with stocking up on dry rather than wet fuel. Look for seasoned or kiln-dried hardwood below 20% moisture, ideally with the Woodsure 'Ready to Burn' label. Phil recommends lighting the fire from the top down. You put two logs at the bottom, a criss-cross of kindling on top and natural firelighters on the very top, with the air vents fully open. "This helps warm the fire chamber and flue, encouraging a good draught," he says.

My refuelling was all wrong too. Phil's advice is to, "wait until the flames have largely subsided and a good bed of glowing embers remains", then "open the stove door slowly to allow the pressure to equalise." I also used to clear out every scrap of ash, but leaving 2–3cm in the base helps the stove hold its heat.

3. You'll get through far more wood than you think

Something else I didn't expect when installing my log burner was how quickly our log pile would shrink over winter. According to Jon Butterworth, Director at Arada, part of the shock is simply because wood is a fuel you can see.

"With gas central heating, most of us don't think about every kilowatt of gas we're using," he says. "With a wood burner, you can physically see the logs going onto the fire and, if you're buying your wood, you know exactly what each load has cost you."

How much you use depends on the stove's output, how long you run it and the size and insulation of the room. "A larger, higher-output stove will naturally require more fuel," says Jon, which is why getting the size right matters. Damp wood wastes fuel too, because "energy is wasted driving that moisture off rather than producing useful heat."

All that wood needs somewhere to live, and log storage was another thing I underestimated. "Buying logs in bulk is usually more cost-effective and convenient, so it's worth thinking about where you'll store them before your stove is installed," says Phil Wood. If I did it again, I'd build a log store bigger than I thought I needed, out of the prevailing wind, and close to the house on a lit, hard path. Trudging across a muddy lawn in the dark with an armful of logs gets old fast.

And a final thing nobody warned me about was the wildlife. The first time I brought a big batch of logs indoors, I spent the next few days finding confused beetles and spiders around the house. Logs that have been stored outside are home to all sorts of insects, and the warmth of your living room soon wakes them up. Now, I give each log a quick tap and knock off any loose bark outside before it comes in. I only bring in a day or two's worth at a time, and keep it in a log basket. That way the logs have time to warm up and lose any surface damp before they go on the fire, without turning the house into a bug hotel.

4. It won't heat the whole house on its own

I had visions of the stove keeping the whole house cosy; in reality, it makes one room toasty, and because you refuel in cycles, letting the fire burn down before adding more, the temperature can swing between too hot and slightly chilly.

"A single wood-burning stove isn't generally designed to replace whole-house central heating," says Jon. "It's at its most effective heating the room it's installed in and potentially adjoining spaces, so many homeowners choose to use it alongside their existing heating system."

There's a catch I didn't see coming, though. If your central heating thermostat is in the same room as the stove, it thinks the whole house is warm and switches the boiler off, leaving bedrooms and hallways cold. It's worth moving the thermostat, or fitting a smart heating system so other rooms keep heating independently. A stove fan on top of the stove can also help push warm air further into the room.

5. You'll want to book your sweep and service before the first cold snap

I knew the chimney needed sweeping every year. What I didn't realise was that everyone else remembers at the same time, so the first chilly week of autumn, and I ended up at the bottom of a long waiting list.

"Our advice will always be to get ahead of the rush and make sure any necessary preparation is carried out before the colder months arrive," says Adam Leah, founder and director at Direct Stoves.

You can handle simple jobs yourself, such as cleaning the glass, but Adam recommends a professional check too. "A trained professional can identify any potential issues that may not be immediately obvious and advise on any repairs or replacements," he says. These days I book my sweep and service in late summer, as part of my log burner maintenance, so there's time to fix any problems before I need the stove most.

Little things nobody tells you about owning a log burner

Beyond the big lessons, there were plenty of smaller things I only found out once the stove was installed.

• It doesn’t have to be a black box
  When I was shopping for my stove, I assumed it would be black, because that’s just what stoves looked like. “One of the things people are often surprised by is just how much choice there is now in terms of colours,” says Jon Butterworth. “Homeowners are choosing their stove as part of their overall interior scheme rather than simply as a heating appliance.” If space is tight, it’s worth looking at models with storage built in too. “Integrated log storage can be a practical and attractive solution, keeping your logs close to hand while complementing the overall look of your stove,” says Phil Wood.
• You’ll need more kit than you think
  I quickly realised I needed fireplace accessories such as a poker, a pair of leather gauntlets for handling hot logs, and a metal ash bucket and shovel for clearing out. I also needed somewhere tidy to keep kindling and firelighters. It’s worth budgeting for all of this alongside the stove, so you’re not caught short on the first cold night.
• Leave room around the hearth
  Laying a fire and clearing out ash is messy work, and I hadn’t left myself much space to do it. If you can, plan a bit of breathing room around the hearth for kneeling, stacking kindling and setting down the ash bucket. If your stove is in a carpeted room, a fireproof rug in front will catch stray embers and ash.
• A flue thermometer is worth having
  Once I understood how much a cold flue affects the way a stove burns, a flue thermometer became one of my most useful bits of kit. It sits on the flue pipe and shows at a glance whether the stove is burning hot enough. That helps you avoid a smoky, sluggish fire and the build-up of tar that comes with burning too cool.

Shop for handy log burner accessories

If you love the idea of a real flame but don’t have a chimney, or don’t want to deal with logs, ash and annual sweeps, a bioethanol stove might suit you better. Read 5 things I wish I knew before getting a bioethanol stove before you decide.

While it ultimately boils down to your daily routine and how you intend to use it, there is a minimum dimension you should be aiming for, according to our experts.

To find out how small a porch can be before it's essentially useless, and how to make a tight space feel bigger, keep reading.

What is the minimum size a porch needs to be?

At a minimum, your porch should be two square metres – anything smaller is going to be impractical for everyday use. Anthony Threlfall, Head of Marketing at Everest, also points out that it will probably feel surprisingly tight once it's built because you lose usable floor area from the thickness of the walls.

“For many homes, somewhere between 2m² and 3m² can provide genuinely useful space without creating an oversized addition. It's important to remember that the 3m² permitted development threshold refers to the external ground area, not the usable floor area inside the porch," he continues.

"In England, there are other conditions too, including a maximum height of 3m and planning restrictions where the porch sits close to a boundary fronting a highway, so homeowners should always check what applies to their property before work begins.”

How much clearance should homeowners allow for doors?

"One of the most common design pitfalls in a small porch is what we call the 'trap effect'", says Anthony Threlfall. "You step in, close the outer door behind you, and then find there's nowhere to stand to open the inner front door. It's a frustrating problem, and one that's easily avoided with the right design."

To prevent this, he recommends plotting the full swing arc of both doors on the floor plan and then allowing a clear standing space between them – around 400mm to 500mm – that isn't obstructed by any objects.

"The direction the outer door opens makes a real difference too. Having it open outwards, or hinging it on the opposite side, stops it eating into precious internal space," he adds. "That leaves the interior clear for taking off boots and hanging up coats, which is exactly what a porch should be used for."

How much space is needed to move around comfortably in a porch?

For two people to move around comfortably in your porch, Anthony Threlfall recommends aiming for a depth of at least 1.6m to 1.8m.

"A porch is an active transition space. It's where families arrive home together, shrug off wet coats and kick off muddy shoes, so it needs to cope with more than one person at a time," he says.

How do I make a small porch feel bigger and more functional?

To make the most of your smaller porch and help it appear bigger, interior designer Katie Malik recommends the following:

1. Give the space a clear job: Instead of cramming in every pair of shoes the family owns, carefully select one distinct role for the space – whether it's reserved for everyday footwear, coats and keys, or just the muddiest shoes.

2. Use one wall for storage: "A shallow cabinet with hooks above creates an organised arrival point while keeping the route through the porch clear. A bench with shoe storage underneath can work well, but only if there is enough room to use the seat comfortably," she says.

3. Use vertical storage: To keep your floor space as clear as possible, Katie recommends taking storage upwards, keeping less frequently used items at the top and concealing them behind closed doors.

4. Choose simple finishes: By painting your surfaces and built-in storage in a similar light tone, you'll help to soften the boundaries of your room and make it look larger. A mirror will also help to bounce light and open up the space.

Our small porch shopping picks

Alternatives to a small porch

If you can't accommodate a large porch, you might be wondering what other alternatives are viable.

"I would always recommend having some form of shelter by your front door, however small, even if it is simply a canopy, roof overhang, or recessed doorway," says architect David Nossiter. "It gives you somewhere to stand while finding your keys, offers protection from the weather when entering or leaving your home and shows architectural 'good manners' for those visiting."

You don't need masses of space to make a porch worthwhile, but by sticking to the minimum measurements above, you can be sure it will be practical for everyday use.

Found this helpful? You may also want to browse through these clever porch storage ideas or read our guide to oak frame porches.

This has certainly been the case around my house ever since we finished renovating it almost 10 years ago. While the kitchen renovation has stood the test of time pretty well, there are definitely areas that need some attention, with the kitchen tap top of the list. The style didn't fit in with the rest of the decor, it had started to leak, was wobbling around in the sink hole and offered nothing in the way of fancy features.

I have long coveted other peoples' boiling water taps for their time-saving benefits – no more waiting for the kettle boil or even have one at all cluttering up the worktops. Having finally got my hands such a tap – and a pretty swanky one at that – my husband and I set about tackling the job ourselves. While it wasn't all plain sailing, it was definitely easier than I expected.

1. Which boiling water tap did I choose?

The tap we fitted is the Design+ Pro Pull 4 in 1 Brushed Brass Boiling Hot Water Tap from Wodar.

I chose this for a number of reasons – mainly because I loved the look of it but also due to the fact that I knew it had won several awards. The compact water tank was also a draw as we were limited on space under the sink – plus fitting a kitchen tap wasn't something I had done before and this one promised simple DIY installation.

I was also really drawn to the fact that it has a pull-out spray nozzle – our kitchen sink is really hard to keep clean and I felt that this would make the job much easier (which it does).

2. Gathering together the tools

Obviously before we got started we needed to pull together all the equipment we'd need for installation to go smoothly.

Thankfully, not too many tools were needed and, in all likelihood, if you've carried out any kind of easy DIY jobs in the past, you'll have most of these around.

All that's needed is a Phillips screwdriver, adjustable wrench and a pair of insulated waterproof gloves. Additionally, you might want to grab a few old towels and a torch to making seeing into dark corners of your under-sink cabinet easier.

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3. Remove the old tap and waste

Obviously we first had to remove our old kitchen tap which no longer suited our kitchen design. First we turned off the water supply and drained the residual water from the tap.

Next, we disconnected the water supply pipes. We used a wrench to loosen the large nut and unscrewed the hot and cold water supplies from the tap tails.

Finally, we unscrewed the base plate on the underside of the sink. There was a long bolt holding it in place and we just used our wrench to release it. After that, the old tap could simply be pulled out, leaving an empty hole in the sink.

4. Unboxing the new tap

Within the very impressive packaging was everything we needed to get installation underway. I have to admit that when we first set eyes on the tap I was reminded slightly of some kind of strange Dr. Who alien due to what looked like a mass of tendrils hanging from the tap itself – the sheer number seemed daunting but, thanks to clear labelling, on closer inspection, felt less so.

Included in the range of pipes and tubes were the hot and cold water pipes, heating machine tube and plug-in filter hose, along with a selection of other connectors which were all push-fit, apart from the pipework which would connect to the mains water supply.

Also in the box was the gravity ball for the pull-out spray nozzle, a microfibre cleaning cloth and a range of other fittings, including lots of spares – something I found lacking when fitting some of our other kitchen appliances.

In separate boxes were the filter bottle and all its connections and the heating machine that would provide the boiling water, which had simple hot and cold outlets (in red and blue) and came with the plug needed to go into the electrical socket under the sink.

5. Get the tap into place

In order to deliver the boiling water, a water heater is needed for this type of kitchen tap. This is fitted beneath the kitchen sink and is surprisingly simple to do. Simply place the heater next to the waste pipe and mark its height on the pipe before drilling a hole just below this mark to fit the drainage kit to.

Next comes the tap. Luckily for us, the tap hole in our sink was the right size to take the new tap so it was simply a case of popping the base of the tap into the hole, threading the multiple pipes and tubes through first. In all honesty it was a bit of a squeeze but working one-by-one helped.

Once in place, you work from beneath the sink, using gaskets to hold all the pipes together, ending with a copper fastener that is screwed into place. I found this part a little tricky to get right. While this was partly due to the fact that our under-sink unit is a bit cramped, it seems like there is a bit of a knack to it, but after a few attempts it was fine.

6. Connecting all the pipework

Despite the number of tubes and pipes that initially seemed a little perplexing, this was one of the easiest phases of the project thanks to the fact that they were all so clearly labelled.

We began by connecting to the cold water mains then all the rest of the fittings simply pushed into place with no issues. It was even simple to attach the gravity ball to the end of the pull-out nozzle.

The water heater was also easy to attach – there are just three outlets which are all colour coded.

7. Getting the whole thing up and running

Once everything was in place we could heat up the water in the tank and start enjoying the boiling water function.

Again, this was easy. The power cord for the heater simply plugs in. You then set the heater to your desired temperature – we set it to 98°C and it took around five minutes to get to this.

Usefully, the tank is able to deliver 1.6 litres of continuously hot water, although obviously your model may differ from this. Surprisingly, I have found that boiling water taps can be more energy efficient than boiling a kettle repeatedly too.

Final verdict

While installation wasn't all plain sailing (getting the gaskets over the mass of pipework required a little bit of fiddling around, mainly due to our awkward under-sink space), I honestly never thought it would be so simple to install a boiling water tap on a DIY basis.

Obviously models vary, but for us, thanks to the clear labelling of all the parts, it really was a simple case of matching up the colour-coded tubes and pipes to the various outlets and wastes we already had.

The kettle has now been resigned to the back of a cupboard, we are all enjoying instant boiling water for hot drinks and cooking, and the sink has never looked cleaner thanks to the pull-out spray. All that's needed now is to change our kitchen cabinet hardware for brushed brass to get the whole scheme looking cohesive.

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FAQs

Do boiling water taps require lots of maintenance?

There is no getting away from the fact that boiling water taps, particularly those offering other functions, such as filtered water, cost more than standard taps – so looking after them to ensure they remain in tip-top condition makes sense.

In terms of boiling water tap maintenance, along with cleaning them using the method recommended by the manufacturer, it is also wise to give the tap regular checks for leaks and limescale build-up, although ensuring you change the filter regularly should help with this.

Swapping my kitchen tap was just the start of upgrading the kitchen appliances – I am now starting to look at the different types of cooker out there as our range-style model has an old electric hob which is so slow to respond compared to induction or gas. Watch this space.

Not all house styles come packed with obvious focal points. If you happen to live in a period home you may well be lucky enough to have a few already in place – exposed beams, fireplaces, architectural mouldings or beautiful original windows to name but a few. However, if you live in a newer property, or in even in an older one which has at some point been inexplicably stripped of its intrinsic character, you might find yourself staring at nothing but bare walls and wondering what can be done to inject a little personality.

The good news is that, with a little know how, it is possible to create a focal point in lots of different ways and in all kinds of properties – we explain the best ways of going about it.

Turn your walls into the talking point

Wall panelling is one of the hottest interior design trends around right now, be that period styles that add a sense of grandeur, or more rustic boards that lend a log cabin vibe – cladding a wall is a quick and easy way to form an instant point of focus.

Ian Tomlinson, MD at Chaunceys Timber Flooring, explains just why this is such a good way to create interest. "Timber cladding has seen a resurgence thanks to its ability to add warmth, texture and character to interiors. Whether it’s full-height panelling for a dramatic statement or half-height panelling for a more understated effect, it remains a timeless choice.

"We’re seeing a move toward more natural and textured finishes in wall panelling," adds Ian. "Rustic reclaimed timbers with pronounced knots and eye-catching grains are increasingly in demand, as they provide a more organic, tactile feel. Neutral and earthy tones are dominating, with lighter woods like oak or subtle stains offering a soft, contemporary look. There’s also growing interest in wider boards and vertical panelling, which create a sense of height and space in a room, making them perfect for both compact and open-plan layouts."

Fire surrounds make the most perfect focal points

There are few better features in any space, be that a living room or a bedroom, than a fireplace when it comes to lending a warm and cosy glow. It doesn't even really matter too much whether there is a working fire in there – it is the fireplace ideas that you go with that make the most difference.

The good news here is that those without a chimney or a fire can quite easily fake the look. You might like to consider buying an off-the-shelf surround to fit to the wall, or you could even construct one yourself – once filled with a neat stack of logs, flowers, candles or other empty fireplace solutions, no-one will question it.

Alternatively, if you have an opening for a fire already, be sure to make the most it with a surround that suits the period of the house, or by renovating the existing structure.

Get creative with glazing to frame a view

Turning a knock-out view into a focal point is a brilliant way to overcome a lack of interesting architectural features. What better way to while away the hours than by gazing out over your outside spaces?

The good news here is that you actually don't have to have access to vast vistas for this to work either – cleverly using glazing to frame a view, be that over rolling hillsides or your own carefully curated patio, can often result in something akin to a piece of artwork.

Depending on the layout of your home and what you are looking out over, consider high-level glazing, such as clerestory windows, a wide expanse of slimline sliding doors, fixed picture windows or even a beautiful circular window.

Design your kitchen around a striking island

Kitchens have to be one of the hardest areas in which to create a new focal point – they are already busy spaces, with lots going on, so introducing a new element without proper planning can result in a sense of overwhelm.

This is where a kitchen island can be your best friend. This much-loved kitchen feature can not only be designed to provide additional work space, but can also add to your kitchen storage, become an appliance hub and, yes, a focal point in its own right.

If you really want your island to pack punch, Oli Webb, director at Cullifords, suggests leaning on the beauty of natural stone.

"Statement stone is an effective way to create a focal point in the kitchen, bringing natural texture, colour and character to the space. Used on an island, splashback or worktop, a distinctive stone can become a feature in its own right, with its veining and unique markings adding visual interest. Keeping the surrounding cabinetry more understated allows the stone to take centre stage," he suggests.

Use wall and floor tiles to draw the eye

Tiles don't only have to be used as a simple background surface material – in some cases they can play a starring role in the design of a room, forming a striking feature around which everything else is anchored, becoming the perfect way to add character to a new home.

Richard Skeoch, company director at Hyperion Tiles , explains that tiles are no longer restricted to kitchens and bathrooms. "Tiles are increasingly being used throughout the home, with homeowners looking beyond traditional wet areas and considering how tiled surfaces can add character to other spaces.

"We are seeing tiles being used much more creatively throughout the home, from hallways and bedrooms to boot rooms, fireplaces and even living spaces. The question is becoming less about where you need a hard wearing surface and more about where a tiled surface could add something to the room.

"Using tiles in these less expected areas can be a great way to introduce colour, texture or pattern," he continues. "A tiled fireplace or feature wall, for example, can become a real design statement."

Statement lighting works in any room

Your lighting design may well be a practical element within the home and a way of setting the mood but, with carefully chosen fittings, it can also become a focal point.

Oversized lighting, in particular, makes an instant statement in any room, drawing the eye to the exact point within the space you want, as well as giving you the opportunity to create some interesting interplays between light and dark.

Even those working with spaces with low ceilings can consider oversized or statement lighting – in fact, both can be the perfect way to distract from the vertical proportions of the room.

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A stylish home bar is the perfect way to glam up a bland dining space

If it's a kitchen or dining space you are working with, do take time to consider some home bar ideas. While it might not be an essential, this is a feature you can have a little fun with and it can become the perfect talking point for guests.

Sam Harris, senior design consultant at Ashford Kitchens & Interiors, explains how to approach the design of a home bar. "A home bar can create a natural focal point within a kitchen or dining room, adding both character and a sense of occasion to the space. Whether it’s a dedicated drinks cabinet, a statement open shelf or a built-in bar area, it can be designed to complement the wider kitchen while giving the room its own distinctive feature.

"Displaying glassware, bottles and carefully chosen accessories can also turn the bar into an attractive design element when it’s not in use," adds Sam.

Don't underestimate the power of colour in creating interest

Using paint to create a focal point on walls or ceilings is such a quick and easy solution, yet all too often it gets overlooked in favour of more expensive or complicated methods.

Cathryn Sanders, head of creative at Earthborn , explains some of the best ways to use paint effects in order to create a point of interest in an otherwise bland space. "Paint is a simple yet effective way to create a focal point, whether through a bold colour, contrasting shades or playful patterns such as stripes.

"Used to highlight a particular area or architectural feature, paint can draw the eye and add personality, while giving you the freedom to experiment with colour and pattern."

For ideas regarding using paint to create focal points, I recommend you consider using the peek-a-boo paint trend.

The benefits of a cosy reading nook are twofold

It is so important when designing your interiors that you incorporate a few areas that are intended for nothing more than cosying up and relaxing – all too often we focus so much on practical features that we overlook the importance of sheer comfort.

A reading nook not only gives you a quiet, cosy spot to retreat to when needed but, with the right design approach, can also become the focal point within a space.

Use colour, texture and even wall panelling to set it apart from the rest of the space – this is an idea that works anywhere in the home, from landings to living rooms and even in kitchens.

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Don't forget the impact your ceiling can have

The ceiling so often gets overlooked, yet the effect it can have on the look and feel of a space can be enormous. With the right treatment, your ceiling ideas can become the main character.

"Paul Moody, global marketing and insights director at Havwoods , reveals his favourite way to turn the ceiling into a focal point. "The ceiling provides an opportunity to significantly impact the aesthetic of a space. By directing attention upwards, a focal point is created which will set the tone for the entire room and naturally draw the eye up, helping to make a space feel taller.

"Timber cladding instantly adds character, warmth and texture to a room for a more natural feeling," adds Paul.

A log burning stove is a great alternative to an open fire

Even with no fireplace (or even a chimney), it is still possible to install a log burning stove and, in doing so, you get an instant focal point.

Jon Butterworth, MD at Arada, puts forward the case for taking this route. "A stove can naturally become the focal point of a room, creating a sense of warmth and drawing the eye towards the heart of the space. Whether positioned within a traditional fireplace or set against a more contemporary backdrop, its shape, finish and glowing fire can add character and atmosphere.

"Styling the surrounding area with carefully chosen furniture, artwork, plants or decorative pieces can further enhance the stove and help it feel like an integral part of the room."

FAQs

What is the easiest way to create a focal point in a bathroom?

Bathrooms can be particularly tricky when it comes to focal points – you need to strike a balance between this being a practical space as well as finding ways to make modern bathrooms feel cosy.

While a freestanding stone statement bath might be your dream focal point, if you are after something a little more affordable and quick to install, Jeevan Seth, CEO, JTP, has another suggestion. "A statement mirror can instantly elevate a bathroom, creating a strong focal point while adding depth and character to the space. A contemporary design can bring sculptural interest above a vanity or basin, turning a practical feature into a striking design element."

You might also like to consider a designer towel rail or even an oversized showerhead as a point of interest.

One of the quickest, cheapest and easiest ways to create a focal point is by painting a wall a bold shade or by being clever with pattern – often this will only take a day or two but will have a huge impact.

Yet all this drama and expense could have been avoided if you'd only ditched a few bad bathroom habits. From what you flush down the loo to the little leaks you keep meaning to fix, seemingly harmless oversights can snowball into costly problems.

We asked plumbing experts which behaviours to break before your beautiful bathroom design springs a not-so-pretty surprise.

1. Using your toilet as a trash can

"When you treat your loo like a bin, you're always going to create problems,” says Matthew Powell, founder of WarmZilla. His number one frustration? People are still flushing wet wipes. "They don't break apart in the water like toilet paper does – the same goes for cotton buds and sanitary products. They catch on rough sections of pipework, build up with grease and other debris in the drainage system, and eventually create a blockage.”

If your toilet drains slowly, you hear gurgling sounds from it (or nearby plug holes), or water rises higher when you flush, there's likely an issue.

"Start by using a plunger," says Neil Lampton, plumbing expert at property maintenance company Aspect. "Though you’ll only be successful if the blockage is within the trap, rather than further down the pipework or in the soil stack."

Alternatively, try these methods for unblocking a toilet without a plunger if you don't have one to hand.

"If you catch a blockage early, a plumber or drainage engineer may be able to clear it for £100 to £200 if the pipework is easy to access,” says Matthew. "If the blockage is further along the drain or it's caused sewage to back up, the bill can rise into several hundred pounds. In more serious cases, damaged pipework or flooring affected by contaminated water can make the repair very expensive.”

Simply put, you should only ever flush toilet paper and human waste in a toilet. And if your toilet is already draining slowly, don't repeatedly flush it as you can cause the bowl to overflow.

2. Washing your hair down the shower drain

“Almost one in five (19%) people admit to putting hair down the drain, rising to 27% of under-35s*," reveals Chris Houghton, home expert at HomeServe.

"Hair knots together with soap scum and shampoo residue, forming a dense clog just below the plughole," he explains. "Signs of an issue include water building around your feet in the shower, a bath that’s slow to empty, or a bad smell from the drain. Left alone, This slow drain becomes a full blockage, and standing water can damage shower tray seals and leak into the floor below."

So what do you do about it? "A cheap hair catcher will stop most of the build-up," says Chris. "Clear it after every few showers and pull out any visible hair from the plughole once a week.”

"Chemical products are available to clear blocked shower drains but take care when using them, it’s possible to damage your pipes if you use them too often," adds Neil Lampton. "A mixture of bicarbonate of soda and vinegar can sometimes be more effective. If your shower keeps blocking it’s time to call a professional, who will use specialist equipment to clear challenging blockages – with tools that can reach over 20 meters into the pipes."

*Based on Opinium research commissioned by HomeServe amongst 2,000 UK adults (18+), with fieldwork conducted between 2nd and 5th June 2026.

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3. Neglecting damaged silicone sealant

It's hard to disagree that black mould or peeling sealant around a bath, sink or shower looks unattractive. But it's not just a cosmetic issue. "The seal around a bath or shower is there to stop water finding its way behind tiles," says Matthew Powell. "Once that silicone starts splitting, water can escape every time the shower is used. At first there may be very little to see, which is why people can ignore it for months, but eventually you might notice staining on the ceiling below, a musty smell, loose flooring, swollen skirting boards or tiles beginning to move.

According to Matthew, you can usually replace a failed seal for around £80-150, but if you leave the leak long enough, that cost could skyrocket. "If you've got damaged plasterboard or rotten timber, your floor and ceiling might need replacing, and that can easily turn into a bill over £1,000," he tells us. "So check the seal around baths, shower trays and basins regularly and act as soon as you see gaps or lifting."

"If you’re siliconing a shower yourself, remove the old silicone completely, clean and dry the surface properly and allow the new bathroom sealant to cure before using the shower," Matthew advises. "If water has already reached the room below or the floor feels soft, I’d get the area checked, because if you just put fresh silicone over the gap you're not going to repair any damage that’s already happened underneath."

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4. Using the same strong cleaner on every surface

Sometimes, especially when you're in a hurry, it's easiest to reach for the strongest cleaner in the cupboard and blitz your bathroom with it. But do so at your peril. "A cleaner that works on your toilet bowl isn’t automatically suitable for your taps," says James Roberts, a qualified plumber and director at Sanctuary Bathrooms.

"Abrasive pads scratch finishes, while bleach and some acidic cleaners damage certain coatings. Even vinegar isn’t universally safe: some tap manufacturers specifically advise against it as it can damage chrome and other finishes. Scratches, flaking or a newly patchy finish are reasons to stop and check the product’s care instructions."

For routine cleaning, James says you should always follow the fitting manufacturer’s guidance and use a soft cloth. "Where a cleaner is permitted, follow its dilution and contact-time instructions, rinse thoroughly and dry afterwards. If you’ve used something unsuitable, rinse away the residue and ask the supplier about the damage before trying another product. Cleaning cannot restore a coating that has been stripped away; you may need a replacement component or a new bathroom tap, with fitting costs on top.”

5. Dropping unsuitable cleaning blocks into the cistern

It's not just cleaning sprays that can be troublesome – according to James Roberts, loo cleaning blocks placed in the cistern may also cause damage. "Some bleach or chlorine products can damage internal components, while fragments from cleaning blocks can interfere with the flush-valve seal," he tells us.

"Signs there's an issue include water continuing to trickle into the pan after flushing, or the cistern repeatedly refilling when nobody has used it. Those symptoms can have other causes, too, so they need checking rather than guessing at."

"If a toilet flush problem develops, stop using the unsuitable product and have any remaining block removed safely, then get the valve and seals inspected," he says. "Sometimes replacing a seal is enough; otherwise the valve may need replacing. Faulty cistern-valve replacement typically costs anywhere between £50-£300 plus VAT, depending on the mechanism and access. A leaking toilet also wastes water and can increase a metered bill.”

6. Pouring neat bleach down the toilet to ‘clean’ it

This is something I've definitely been guilty of, especially just before I leave the house for the day as I feel it will have all day to work and make my loo basin brighter. But according to Julie Gokce, Senior Bathroom Expert at More Bathrooms , it's a total no-no.

"Neat bleach left sitting in the bowl attacks the rubber seals, washers and plastic components inside the cistern and flush valve. Over time, these become brittle, crack and start leaking, often within a year in homes where bleach is used weekly," she says.

“The telltale signs are a toilet that won't stop running, a weak flush, or water pooling at the base. A simple repair, replacing the flush valve and seals, usually costs £80-£150, but if the leak has damaged flooring or caused damp, remedial work can run to £300-£800.

“The fix here is to use toilet cleaner designed for the job, or dilute bleach heavily and never leave it sitting," advises Julie. "If damage is done, replacing the internal components is a quick job and far cheaper than ignoring it.”

7. Ignoring a dripping tap

Whether it's just a case of you not turning it off properly, or a tap that still lets out water when fully closed, a persistent drip wastes water and can cause more damage the longer its neglected.

“A dripping tap feels harmless, until it's been staining your basin for months," says Julie Gokce. "More seriously, a leaking waste pipe under the sink can rot the cabinet base before you even notice."

“The signs are easy to miss, like a musty smell in the cabinet, warped wood, or water stains on the shelf," she continues. "A dripping tap repair is usually £60-£120 including parts. If a leak has rotted the cabinet or floor, replacement and repair can cost £300-£800."

“It's worth checking under your sink every few months for drips or damp patches and sorting small leaks straight away," says Julie. "Also, a £5 washer now can save you hundreds later.”

"The longer it's left, the more likely the whole tap will need replacing, whereas if you notice it early, you'll likely pay just an hour's labour, plus the cost of a replacement washer or cartridge," adds Neil Lampton.

8. Leaving water sitting on bathroom furniture

This is one of James Powell's biggest pet peeves. "Splashes left around the basin or on cabinet fronts gradually damage timber-based bathroom furniture, particularly where water reaches joints or exposed edges," he says.

"Heavy condensation can contribute, too. Swollen edges, lifting finishes or distorted panels are warning signs. The repair may involve replacing a door or panel; more extensive damage can mean replacing the unit and paying to disconnect and reconnect the basin."

To be on the safe side, wipe splashes dry immediately and always use the best bathroom extractor fan when showering to limit condensation. "If damage has started, stop the source of wetting and ask the supplier whether individual parts are available," says James. "Drying the surface won’t necessarily repair swollen material, and painting over it is unlikely to solve the underlying problem.”

9. Not wiping down your shower screen

Another place where you don't want to let water rest unattended is your shower screen. "Not only can it leave limescale marks that become hard to shift, it also drips down and collects around silicone sealant," says Neil Lampton.

"If your bathroom ventilation isn’t good enough, these areas can stay damp," he adds, "creating the right conditions for mould growth."

While we already know the issues damaged silicone can cause, replacing a cloudy shower screen or enclosure with damaged shower-door tracks is also an expensive business.

Cleaning a shower screen needn't be a huge chore – it's more a case of getting into a good routine. "Keep a squeegee in the shower and wipe down the screen after every use," advises Neil. "Wipe away water collecting in corners and door tracks, clean regularly and use the extractor fan to help the area dry. Also, regularly lean the screen with a limescale remover, or try white vinegar and warm water."

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10. Letting limescale build up on your shower head

Our final bad habit is a biggie – ignoring those tell-tale crusty deposits deposits gathering on your shower nozzle. Suddenly, your 'rainfall' shower experience is more like a drizzle, but that's not all.

"Limescale is a hard, chalky deposit left behind by minerals in water," says Neil Lampton. "If you let it build up it will block showerhead nozzles and restrict water flow, which could end up in you having to fork out on a new shower part."

Removing limescale from your shower head may resolve the problem without a professional repair. "Wipe it dry after every use, and clean it regularly with a suitable limescale remover to prevent deposits building up," says Neil. "If your shower head is removable, you may be able to soak it in a descaling solution. But if a plumber is needed, charges start from one hour’s labour, plus any replacement parts."

FAQs

Aside from plumbing, what else can be damaged by bad bathroom etiquette?

You might not need a plumber in these cases, but nevertheless, these ruinous routines could end up causing costly damage.

We'll start with one I'm always nagging about in my own home – damp towels left in a heap on the bathroom floor. "They can traps moisture against the floor, which can encourage mould growth on the surface beneath it," says Neil Lampton. "This might stain grout and let mould form, meaning cleaning or worse, a regrouting job for you."

Next up, the curse of the pesky shower curtain. Now I've not had to live with one of these for years, but if you do, make sure you never leave it outside the bath. "Doing so causes water runs down the curtain onto the bathroom floor instead of back into the bath," says Neil. "This repeated wetting can allow water through gaps around flooring, bath edges or damaged seals, potentially affecting the floor beneath and the ceiling below."

So make sure you wrangle your curtain into the bath every time every time you shower. And afterwards, spread it out along the rail so it can dry properly, rather than leaving it bunched together.

Feeling like your neglected bathroom needs some love? Let these bathroom trends inspire your next makeover. Not got much to spend? Here are some budget ideas that will help you cut costs on a bathroom makeover.

As long as you've nailed the five key components of this space – including ventilation and lighting, which we explain later – you'll be well on your way to creating a beautiful bathroom.

To find out how to bring your windowless bathroom to life – whether it's an understairs toilet or a compact en suite – we've rounded up the best expert tips below.

1. Ventilation

Extractor fans are a must-have in every bathroom, but they're particularly important in windowless spaces, as the steam has nowhere to go. Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco, suggests leaving it running for at least 20 minutes after your shower, but potentially longer if the room is still damp.

"I'd recommend a decent extractor fan with a humidity sensor for a windowless bathroom," he says. "The sensor helps because you're not relying on someone remembering to switch it on. It'll respond when moisture levels rise and keep running until they've dropped. You also need to make sure the fan is powerful enough for the size of the room."

While some people turn their extractor fan off due to the noise, energy costs or potential cold, Michael says you could be "creating a much bigger problem with condensation and mould".

To ensure your extractor fan works properly, you'll need to see if there is a sufficient gap underneath the bathroom door so replacement air can get in.

Finally, Michael advises checking that your ducting vents outside rather than into your loft – otherwise, you're just transferring damp air from one part of your home to another.

2. Lighting

A lack of natural light is one of the biggest problems in a windowless bathroom, but Massimo Buster Minale, founder and creative director of Buster + Punch, offers a solution.

"Rather than relying on a single overhead fitting, layer different light sources to balance practical light with atmosphere. Start by using ambient lighting to provide an even spread of light throughout the bathroom, using flush IP44 wet rated ceiling lights or spotlights to replace the lack of natural daylight.

"Then, introduce task lighting around the mirror, with wall lights positioned above or either side to provide light for everyday use without harsh shadows or a portable lamp for ease."

You may also want to add a dimmer switch to your bathroom lighting design, which will allow you to adjust the ambience to the time of day, in line with your circadian rhythm.

3. Decoration

Contrary to popular belief, painting everything white isn't going to make your windowless bathroom feel bigger and brighter, according to interior designer Katie Malik. In fact, it can actually make it look cold and clinical when there isn't any natural light.

"Instead, I’d recommend softer, warmer shades such as creamy whites, warm off-whites, pale greige or subtle blush tones," she recommends. "These colours create a much more welcoming atmosphere and work beautifully with warm lighting."

"If you prefer a little more colour, soft sage green, muted powder blue or pale earthy tones can also work really well. The trick is to choose colours with gentle undertones rather than anything too dark or overpowering."

To help your smaller space look bigger, Katie recommends using moisture-resistant satin or soft-sheen paint finishes to help reflect the light, and choosing large-format tiles to reduce the number of visible grout lines, which can sometimes look too busy. You could also use the same tiles across the floors and walls to "help blur the boundaries of the room".

"An oversized mirror is also one of the simplest ways to make a small bathroom feel more spacious. Position it where it can reflect your lighting, and it will help distribute light around the room."

If you're in need of some inspiration, our content director Laura Crombie completely transformed her dated downstairs bathroom using carefully placed colour, patterned flooring and a light-reflecting mirror (see below).

4. The right finishes

Your windowless space might be small, but this doesn't mean you can ignore the basic rules of bathroom design. When it comes to choosing floor and shower wall surfaces, Michael Zohouri recommends porcelain tiles, which don't absorb much water and are easy to wipe down, as well as a bathroom-specific paint on the ceiling to avoid mould spots.

"One thing I'd spend a bit more on is the waterproofing behind the shower tiles. People sometimes think that because they've tiled a wall, it's waterproof. It isn't. Water can still get through grout and joints, so you need a proper tanking system underneath in areas that get regularly soaked," he adds.

"I'd avoid standard MDF around the sink or bath. Once water gets into the edges, it swells and starts falling apart. If you want a vanity unit, look for one specifically designed for bathrooms, and make sure any exposed edges are properly sealed."

5. Odour prevention

If you have a windowless bathroom with poor ventilation (see point one), you may notice that smells linger longer than usual, as there is nowhere for the odour to go.

Other than investing in the best extractor fan and ensuring it vents outside, Michael Zohouri recommends looking into the following:

"I'd start looking at anything that stays wet. Bath mats, towels, shower curtains, even the silicone around the bath. People leave damp towels hanging in a bathroom with no window, and they're surprised when the room starts smelling. I'd move them somewhere with better airflow so they can dry properly."

"After a shower, pull the shower curtain across so it can dry properly, and use a squeegee on the shower walls. It takes about 30 seconds and means there's less water sitting around."

So, before you brush off your windowless bathroom as a lost cause, remember that there are plenty of ways to inject some life into it – from a clever layered lighting scheme to choosing the best type of finish.

For more advice and inspiration, have a browse through these downstairs toilet ideas and these smart bathroom storage ideas that are perfect for compact spaces.

That said, for all its potential benefits, when it comes to ensuring your porch ideas bring you joy, getting the design right is key – and this includes taking into account the role it can have in keeping the inside of your home feeling warm and toasty. In the case of my own house, the coldest room by far is the entrance hall – the space which should really feel cosy and inviting, rather than arctic.

Next year we hope to carry out some remodelling work to the house and, as part of this, are considering some porch upgrades. I want to know how the new design could help when it comes to preventing heat loss, so I asked porch experts for their advice.

Start by getting the basics right on your home, not just your porch

My own small porch is original to the house, which was built in 1915 – it has two brick half walls topped with timber posts all finished off with a clay tiled pitched roof. It is really pretty, but other than shielding the front door from the driving rain and, of course, keeping me dry as I return home, I am dubious as to the beneficial role it it plays in keeping my hallway any warmer.

Alexandra Hull, MD and principal director at Back to Front Exterior Design, explains that a porch alone might not be the answer to all my chilly hallway woes.

"When it comes to warmth, a porch can certainly help, but simply adding one isn’t necessarily going to solve a cold hallway. I’d first look at why the hallway feels cold. A poorly performing front door, gaps around the frame, inefficient glazing and inadequate insulation can all contribute, alongside the inevitable rush of cold air every time the front door is opened."

Elizabeth Assaf, co-founder and designer at Urban Front, agrees that there are other factors that could help me more in terms of warming up my entrance hall.

"I would always recommend addressing the fundamentals first. Make sure all windows and doors are correctly specified, fitted and sealed before considering a porch as a solution.

"A porch can certainly help reduce draughts by creating a buffer between the home and the external environment, but it should not be seen as a substitute for proper draught-proofing and insulation," continues Elizabeth.

"In many cases, particularly in modern homes, improving the performance of the entrance door and windows will deliver greater benefits. An enclosed porch is often most valuable in older properties or refurbishment projects where additional protection from the elements is desirable."

Shop hallway draught proofing essentials

Will an enclosed porch keep a hallway warmer than an open design?

Which brings us nicely onto this next point – enclosed vs open porches. My own porch is an open, albeit covered, design, so could swapping it to an enclosed model make a difference in terms of heat loss?

"Without question," states Alexandra Hull. "An open porch keeps the rain off and can offer some protection against the wind – but really it's just a front door under a canopy. Open the door and warm air will still rush outside and cold air will still rush in.

"A fully enclosed porch with a well-sealed outer door, decent glazing and some insulation creates that buffer zone," she explains. "That trapped air is what slows down heat escaping from the hallway.

"However, there is a bit of a trade-off here," continues Alexandra. "We often work on older houses where historic additions have created exactly this type of airlock, but the result can be a cramped and awkward space between two sets of doors.

"It might perform a practical function, but it can make arriving at the house a much less pleasant experience, particularly when you’re trying to welcome guests, manoeuvre children, shopping or dogs through the door.

"This is where an open porch can work really well," she continues. "It maintains that lovely open flow between the entrance hall and the front door whilst still providing much-needed protection from wind and driving rain. It also creates a real sense of arrival, giving you a sheltered moment between outside and in without squeezing another enclosed space into the plan.

"An open porch won’t provide the same thermal buffer as an enclosed one," she concludes, "but that doesn’t mean it can’t make your hallway ideas feel warmer and more comfortable. "

"An enclosed porch creates a buffer zone between the exterior and the main living space, helping to reduce draughts, improve thermal efficiency and provide additional protection from wind and harsh weather," picks up Elizabeth Assaf.

"A covered porch, by contrast, serves a different purpose," she agrees. "While it offers welcome shelter from rain and can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight reaching the door, it does little to prevent heat loss.

"However, a covered porch can still help protect the entrance from the elements," she concurs, "reducing weathering and extending the lifespan of external finishes and materials."

Can the positioning of your porch help prevent heat loss?

Clearly then, switching from an open porch to an enclosed design could be a good way to keep a house warm in winter, but how about its positioning? Obviously it needs to fit in front of the entrance, but what other tips did the experts have to offer?

"The location and exposure of the entrance can have a significant impact on how the front door performs over time," explains Elizabeth Assaf. "For example, a door that is set back within a recess, positioned between two walls, or protected by an overhang will generally experience "orientation matters; north-facing elevations often receive less direct sunlight and can remain damp for longer, while south- and west-facing elevations are more exposed to UV and driving rain."

"Orientation and exposure are definitely worth thinking about," agrees Alexandra Hull. "A doorway facing into the prevailing weather is going to benefit far more from shelter than one tucked away in a protected spot. The depth and height of the porch, the direction the weather tends to come from and whether a side wall might offer a little extra protection are all things we’d think about when designing it."

Elizabeth Assaf points out that orientation matters when specifying the door for your porch or home too. "We always consider the location and surrounding architecture when recommending door designs, finishes and door types (hinged or pivot doors).

"The right specification can significantly improve both the longevity and appearance of the entrance," she explains. "Pivot doors for instance are not suitable if a house is being air tested as they can never be fully weather tight."

How do you create good thermal separation between the front door and porch?

Whether you have an existing porch and are trying to maximise its heat retaining potential, or are considering adding one to upgrade your home, you want to think carefully about how you can use it to create the best thermal separation possible between inside and out so that your porch costs are put to best use.

"The most effective approach is to treat the porch as an unheated buffer zone between the outside and the main house," advises Elizabeth Assaf. "This can be achieved by maintaining a thermally efficient external door to the property itself, ensuring high-quality seals, glazing and insulation throughout the entrance.

"If the porch is enclosed, keeping a heated living or hallway area separated from the porch space helps maintain the thermal benefit," she explains. "That said, advancements in door design mean that a high-performance entrance door can often provide excellent thermal separation without relying on a secondary internal door."

Jake Vincett, co-director of Heritage Build Group LTD, has some more useful advice here.

"For thermal separation, the inner door between the hallway and porch is the one that should be high performance, including insulating and draught-proofing the letterbox if there is one. Don't try to heat the porch because you'll just be wasting money," he warns. "Just make sure there are no gaps around the doors. And only open one when the other is closed, so you keep heat in and cold air out."

Does the choice of front door affect how warm a hallway feels?

There are a few tasks I have been getting to grips with lately in order to get my home ready for winter – one of which has been to draught proof the front door. It is, perhaps, too early to tell how much warmer this will make the hallway feel, but, according to the experts, addressing your front door can be the best place to start if you too suffer from a chilly entrance hall.

"If you invest in a high-quality front door with excellent thermal insulation and, crucially, ensure it is installed correctly, there should be little need for an additional room purely to reduce heat loss," explains Elizabeth Assaf. "Modern door sets are increasingly tested and certified to meet stringent thermal performance standards. Across much of Europe, achieving these standards is already a requirement for new-build properties.

"It's also worth noting that many contemporary self-build homes do not include enclosed porches unless they are being used as an architectural or aesthetic feature," adds Elizabeth. "A well-designed, well-fitted entrance door can provide outstanding thermal performance on its own."

FAQs

What is the best way to make a cold hallway feel warmer?

Alongside looking at your porch design and front door ideas, there are lots of other steps you can take to make a cold hallway feel a little more comfortable.

I, for one, need to look into hallway radiators – my own is seriously undersized and spends most of its time covered by the coats hanging from the hooks that sit directly above it.

According to Georges Cornah, managing director at Warm4Less, there are things we can all do to help cosy up our entryways. "Hang a heavy thermal curtain behind the front door – it's old school but it's a cheap, effective extra layer. Keep the porch as a cold zone for coats, shoes and boots, so wet gear isn't drying out in the heated hallway and, if you already have a porch, check for gaps where it meets the house wall, and seal them with appropriate sealant."

"Ultimately, I’d look at the entrance as a whole rather than thinking of the porch purely as a way of keeping the hallway warm," concludes Alexandra Hull. "The best porches balance kerb appeal, shelter, thermal performance and the experience of actually arriving at the house. Get those things working together and you can create an entrance that feels warmer in every sense of the word."

If you are thinking of adding a porch, make sure you are aware of the most common porch mistakes – they could just save you the heartache of spending money on something that does more harm than good to your home as a whole. And, once it is built, consider these porch storage ideas to make it neat, tidy and functional.

Ten minutes in, we realised our kitchen renovations had far more in common than we’d thought, and not in a good way. We’d both signed off on layouts that looked perfect on the plans and turned out to be a pain to cook in, and we’d both picked worktops we now wish we hadn’t.

Neither of us would rip our kitchen out tomorrow, but a year of cooking, cleaning and living in them has taught us plenty. Here’s what we’d keep, and what we’d do differently next time.

1. Use a kitchen company to fit it, not a general contractor

There’s plenty of advice out there on kitchen renovation mistakes to avoid before you start, but something that somehow slipped past both of us was who should fit the kitchen.

We both used the general contractors already working on our wider renovations, as it felt like the sensible choice. After all, they were already on site, we trusted them, and it saved coordinating another trade. But fitting a kitchen is its own skill, and a good builder isn’t automatically a good kitchen fitter.

In my kitchen, it shows in the small details. For example, it’s hard to clean my washing machine filter properly because the kickboards are a complete pain to remove. My friend’s issues are more obvious. Her fridge doesn’t sit flush with the cabinetry because of the water filter at the back, and some of the seams along her worktops show whenever the light catches them. When we raised these problems, neither of us really knew whose job it was to put them right, because the contractor hadn’t designed the kitchen and the supplier hadn’t fitted it.

What would I/we do differently? Next time, we’d both go to a kitchen company that designs, supplies and fits the whole thing. It costs more upfront, but you get one team responsible for everything, so if a door doesn’t line up or the measurements are out, there’s no arguing over whose fault it is.

2. Plan the layout around real life

The kitchen triangle is one of the first things you read about when planning a kitchen: the idea that your hob, sink and fridge should be spaced so you can move easily between them. In my kitchen, the triangle is really a line, with everything squeezed along one short run.

On its own, that would be fine. The problem is that the whole layout assumes only one person is in there at a time. If I’m cooking and my partner is setting the table, we’re constantly in each other’s way.

“It’s important when setting up your kitchen to actually step back and think about how you live your life,” says Laura Townsend, CAD and design manager at Magnet. “Every space in your kitchen should have a purpose.”

That might mean adapting the triangle to suit your own habits. “Maybe your most-used points are the coffee machine and the fridge,” she says. Where things go matters too. Laura recommends putting the fridge at the end of a run of cabinetry, so the open door doesn’t block the main prep area or the walkway.

What would I do differently? I’d walk through a typical evening, cooking, setting the table and washing up, with my partner before signing off the plan.

3. Don't overlook internal storage

Concealed kitchen storage caught us both out, too. I have a tall cupboard built for the vacuum cleaner, but inside it’s just an empty box, so everything gets leaned in and topples straight back out. A few hooks, a rail or a pull-out would have fixed that. My friend’s situation is worse: she can barely reach a whole corner cupboard because nobody planned how to get into it.

Kiran Noonan, managing director of Eden Browne Interiors, says the fittings worth paying for are often the simplest: deep drawer dividers to stop heavy pots and lids rattling, full-extension soft-close runners and “simple pull-out larder units that bring deep pantry items forward”. She’s wary of fancier corner systems like carousels, which she says: “sacrifice significant cabinet space to mechanism hardware and are notoriously hard to clean when items drop off the back."

What would I/we do differently? I’d plan the kitchen for two people and decide what goes inside every cupboard before choosing the cupboards. My friend would definitely add some pull out storage solutions for that corner unit.

Handy kitchen storage solutions

4. Swap some fitted units for freestanding pieces

If there’s one part of my kitchen I’d happily show off, it’s the old pine sideboard I picked up for a steal on Facebook Marketplace. It’s scuffed and well worn, but that’s exactly why I love it. It adds period charm to the kitchen in a way new cabinetry simply couldn't compete with, and it doubles as my coffee station.

Looking back, I wish more of my kitchen had been freestanding. The fitted units are practical, but it’s the sideboard that really elevates the scheme and makes the room feel lived in rather than installed.

“Freestanding pieces make sense when the aim is to bring character into a room and avoid it feeling too much like a kitchen showroom,” says Sebastian Aronowitz, founder of The London Kitchen Company. “For homeowners wanting a kitchen that feels as though it’s grown organically over the years, freestanding pieces help achieve that.”

It’s worth weighing up freestanding or fitted kitchens carefully, though. “Freestanding pieces work well once a kitchen is large enough to accommodate all the cabinetry needed for the basics first: cooking utensils and equipment, cold and dry food storage, cutlery and crockery, cleaning equipment, bins, and all the appliances,” says Sebastian.

“Once that’s covered, something like a freestanding antique dresser or pantry can be a lovely addition, and it can also serve a specific purpose, such as storing tablecloths, crockery and cutlery for the dining table, with a bit of display alongside.”

As for the trade-offs, “the disadvantage is the entire rationale behind fitted, made-to-measure units: fitted cabinetry uses space as efficiently as possible, while freestanding pieces never fit the space exactly, leaving gaps that waste space and are hard to keep clean.”

What would I do differently? I’d keep the hardworking areas fitted, then swap a run of wall units for another freestanding piece or two.

5. Budget for the worktops you want from the start

My friend’s biggest regret is her worktops. She chose a thin marble-effect laminate, and a year on, it’s already looking tired in places. The fitting doesn’t help either – the seams on her waterfall island are just visible enough to spoil the clean look she was after. If she could do it again, she’d stretch the budget to quartz worktops.

I feel much the same, even though I went for the thickest laminate worktop I could find. It’s held up better than most, but it still doesn’t have the finish of quartz or natural stone. In the end, it came down to money. By the time everything else was paid for, the kitchen worktops I really wanted were out of reach.

And it’s not only about looks. “Marble or quartz worktops that stay cool to the touch can make it easier to roll out pastry or work with chocolate without your ingredients softening too quickly,” says Laura Townsend. “It’s actively suited to the way you cook.”

What would I/we do differently? We’d both factor stone or quartz into the kitchen renovation cost from day one, rather than treating worktops as somewhere to save once the budget starts to stretch.

6. Choose the paint for how it wears, not just how it looks

I still love the colour of my kitchen. The deep navy is the first thing people notice, and a year on, I’d choose it again. What I’d change is everything underneath it. My cabinets are painted laminate, so every chip shows up as a bright white mark. When I tried to touch them up, I chose a “nice” paint rather than a tough one, and the patches looked worse than the chips.

“The starting principle is that a kitchen finish has to accommodate real life,” says Sebastian Aronowitz. “A finish that demands excessive care isn’t practical for most households. Darker colours show marks and chips far more visibly, particularly since the undercoat beneath is almost always white, so a chip reveals a stark white mark. It’s worth finding a painter willing to colour-match the undercoat to the topcoat, so any damage is far less obvious.”

Factory-sprayed finishes are harder but more brittle, Sebastian explains, so they chip more easily, and, “because the factory finish is perfectly smooth and uniform, touch-ups tend to be highly noticeable”. A hand-painted finish, by contrast, “may mark slightly more easily but is less prone to chipping, and chipping tends to be the bigger practical problem. Touch-ups just need the leftover tin of paint and a brush.”

Sheen makes a difference as well. Kiran Noonan advises against ultra-flat matt on high-touch doors, recommending, “a satin or low-sheen eggshell designed for cabinetry that allows spot touch-ups without leaving visible patches”. If only I’d known that before reaching for my touch-up brush!

What would I do differently? I’d keep the navy, but choose a hard-wearing kitchen cabinet paint in a low-sheen finish with a colour-matched undercoat, and keep a tin ready for touch-ups. These

Planning a kitchen renovation of your own? It’s worth reading about the emotional impact of decision fatigue before you start. With hundreds of choices to make, from layout to choosing paint colours, knowing what to expect can help you stay focused on what matters most.

So, when the opportunity came to test the Waterdrop X16 Premium 1600 Reverse Osmosis System (available on Waterdrop) , I had to give it a go. The filter removes 99.9% of bacteria in the water through an 11-stage filtration system and adds calcium and magnesium back for a balanced mineral profile.

Below, I've explained everything you need to know about the system, including how easy it was to install, my water quality test results and, the big one, whether it's really worth the money.

Waterdrop X16 Premium 1600: Specs

Waterdrop X16 Premium 1600: installing the filter

While the installation video doesn't look massively complicated for seasoned DIYers, I decided to hand the job over to a professional to make matters easier – especially since it involved drilling into our granite worktop, which we were terrified would crack.

Before the plumber came round, we had to think about where we would store the system, as the space under our sink was currently occupied by our household bins. We ended up reconfiguring our kitchen cabinets and designing a specific built-in slot for it to go into. The unit measures 46.2L x 15.9W x 42.5H cm and you'll need at least two inches of clearance around it.

Next up, we had to think about where to position the faucet on the sink. I was initially worried that an additional tap would make the sink look cluttered, but the sleek chrome finish and black digital display blend in surprisingly well with our worktops.

The filter comes with the system, drain water tube, smart faucet, power adaptor, feed water adaptor, lock clips, Teflon tape and drain saddle.

It took our plumber two to three hours to fit the tap and system, and while he wouldn't describe the job as hard, he did run into a problem with one of the provided connection pipes, which wasn't perfectly perpendicular and created a leak. However, the problem was solved after he cut it himself.

Waterdrop X16 Premium 1600: using the filter

Design and ergonomics:

Overall, I'm very happy with the design and ergonomics of the faucet. The chrome finish blends in nicely next to my existing tap and kitchen design, and it's satisfying to press on and off by clicking the circular head, which can be turned left and right to adjust the flow rate. As I would expect from a premium product, the build feels high quality and sturdy.

Flow:

Waterdrop claims that the faucet can fill a glass within 10 seconds, and I can confirm that it has an impressively fast flow. By spinning the dial, you can adjust the flow rate to fill between 200 and 2,000 millilitres of water, which is pretty handy when it comes to baking and cooking with measurements and saves you having to turn it off yourself.

Temperature:

The water comes out at room temperature and while this suits me perfectly, those who prefer ice-cold water might want to install a cooling system instead, like the one below.

Taste:

I personally love the taste of our water now, but I have had mixed feedback from the other members of my household, who said it has taken them a while to get used to it and compared it to Volvic. It definitely has more of a soft, minerally flavour than regular tap water, but I quite enjoy it. Either way, we all agree that the taste is worth it for the benefit of cleaner water and use it every day.

Ongoing costs:

You'll need to replace the filters as follows:

• F2 filter – up to 6 months or 550 gallons (£29.99)
• F1A filter – up to 12 months or 1,100 gallons (£34.99)
• X16-F3 RO filter – up to 24 months or 2,200 gallons (£179.99)

You won't need to worry about remembering this, though, as the digital display alerts you when it's time for a replacement.

Note: Our tap may be slightly noisier as we have a heat pump next door to our kitchen.

Waterdrop X16 Premium 1600: testing the filter

To find out whether it lived up to the claims, I used these water-testing strips from Amazon to compare the filtered water with my regular tap water.

Here are the results:

The biggest change was a massive reduction in my water hardness. As the minerals were removed by the reverse osmosis process, there was also a reduction in carbonate, pH and total alkalinity.

The TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) of the filtered water is 25mg per litre, which represents how many dissolved particles are in the water. This was far less than there was before, indicating that the filter isn't doing much remineralisation, which accounts for the reduction in carbonate, pH and total alkalinity.

I found the claim that the filter creates a pH of 7.5± to be false. In the test, it indicated a lower pH than before of around 6.8, compared to 7.2 in the unfiltered water. This isn't a problem, as the UK drinking guidance recommends a range of pH 6.5–9.5, but it just wasn't as advertised.

However, the thing that I'm really interested in – removing microplastics, PFAS and other heavy metals – cannot be detected by my testing strips and requires a specialist lab. These are some of the most important contaminants that a reverse osmosis system can remove.

In summary, the filter proved effective at softening my water, and removing minerals and other contaminants, but Waterdrop overstates the remineralisation.

Waterdrop X16 Premium 1600: final verdict

To conclude, I'm super impressed with this filter in terms of its design, performance and how well it softened my water. It tastes good, looks sleek, and once you've got past the fiddly installation (or handed the job to someone else, like me), it's a breeze to use every day.

Whether the price tag is worth it or not will ultimately boil down to your budget. If you have the cash to spend on upgrading your tap, then yes, I would highly recommend it. But if it's going to stretch you uncomfortably, then the countertop model mentioned previously could be a good alternative, costing around £200.

Unsure whether this filter is right for you? Our assistant editor Sarah Harley has also reviewed the Tappwater EcoPro Compact Tap Filter.

Simon Tchiernak, senior designer at Neville Johnson, explains just why paying attention to the most common hallway design mistakes is so important. "The hallway sets the architectural and emotional tone for the entire home. It is the transition zone where you decompress from the outside world and the first space that welcomes your guests. When designed thoughtfully, it creates an effortless sense of calm – when overlooked, it quickly becomes an overwhelming bottleneck of visual clutter."

If your current hallway set-up just isn't working, or you are about to embark on a redesign, check out what the experts had to say about the most common errors they see when it comes to this all-important space to ensure yours provides the warm welcome you want.

1. Failing to tailor storage to your needs

I don't know about you, but for a space that needs to hold numerous bulky, dirty items – coats, footwear, dog-walking essentials to name just a few – my own hallway is seriously lacking in anything that comes close to good storage.

According to Gail Bignell, head of design at Sharps, bad planning when it comes to hallway storage is all too common. "The biggest hallway mistake is asking, 'How much storage can we squeeze in?' before looking at how the space actually needs to work. I always think about those first 60 seconds after you walk through the door, because that tells you far more than the floorplan ever will.

"You come in with bags in your hands, shoes on your feet, maybe a dog lead wrapped around your wrist, and quite often someone else is trying to come through the door behind you. That is the reality the hallway has to deal with. If it does not support that moment, even a space with lots of storage can still feel chaotic," she warns. "One of the most useful things you can do is protect what I call the 'arrival space'. That is the clear bit of floor just inside the door where you can step in, put something down, take your coat off and let somebody else pass. People often put storage exactly where the clutter already gathers, but that can make the problem worse.

"I tend to think of hallway clutter in three groups," continues Gail. "The things you need to grab every day, such as keys and school bags; things you want close by but out of sight, such as coats and shoes; and things that have somehow ended up living in the hallway simply because nobody has given them a proper home. Treating all three in the same way rarely works," she notes.

"Depth makes a huge difference too," adds Gail. "In a narrow hallway, every centimetre counts, so there is no reason every cupboard needs to be the same depth. Shoes and everyday items can sit very happily in shallower storage, while coats need more generous hanging space. Varying the depth can make the whole run feel lighter and much less imposing."

Shop hallway storage saviours

2. Overcrowding the hallway with bulky furniture

While good storage is obviously a key element in any successful hallway, it is important to avoid the temptation to squeeze in too much, as interior designer Holly Scott of Holly Scott Interior Design explains. "Hallways are often relatively narrow, so furniture really needs to earn its place. A deep console or bulky piece of furniture can quickly make the route through the house feel cramped. Think about how people actually move through the space, especially when several people are coming in with coats, bags or shopping. A slim console, wall-mounted shelf or carefully chosen cabinet can give you that lovely styled moment without compromising the flow."

Kate Palmer, creative director at The Painted Furniture Company, agrees that, just as when dealing with landing storage, it is important not to try to shoehorn too many storage pieces into a hallway. "Rather than trying to squeeze in lots of small storage solutions, think about what you really need to keep in the hallway and choose one well-designed piece of furniture that can accommodate it all. A dresser, cupboard or bench with storage can make a big difference, particularly if it combines concealed storage with somewhere to keep everyday items within easy reach."

Sophie Chapman, interior designer and associate at The Vawdrey House, also points out the importance of only including what you need. "Avoid filling every available wall or corner. Hallways need breathing space. A home should feel like a journey, with key views and features drawing you through it, rather than an obstacle course of furniture."

3. Playing it too safe with decor choices

All too often hallway design ideas are just not given the attention they deserve – but this is not just a practical space, it is also one that sets the tone for what lies beyond, making its decor much more important than you might think.

"Because hallways are transitional spaces, they’re actually a brilliant place to be a little braver with colour, wallpaper or pattern. Your hallway is the first glimpse people get of your home and the people who live there, so it should say something about you. Also, you don’t sit in a hallway for hours, so it can cope beautifully with a stronger design idea," points out Holly Scott.

"It’s very easy to recreate the classic console, mirror and lamp combination because we’ve seen it work elsewhere, but I’d always add something personal, whether that’s artwork, an unexpected colour, a fabulous hallway wallpaper or a piece of furniture you love. Ultimately, I think a successful hallway should make you feel happy to be home the moment you walk through the door."

Debbie Leigh, design manager at ILIV, goes on to explain that even in small hallways, there is no need to play it safe. "One of the most common mistakes in a hallway is being too cautious with your choice of patterns and textures, particularly if your hall is narrow or lacks natural light. It’s easy to assume that keeping everything plain will make the hallway feel larger, but actually this can sometimes leave it feeling a little flat. Patterned fabrics in soft, neutral tones will make your hall feel welcoming and homely, while adding in some different textures helps to give a feeling of warmth."

4. Choosing a flooring that can't handle high traffic

As a transitional space between inside and out, the hallway needs to feature durable, easy-to-clean surfaces and the hallway flooring you choose has to be capable of handling high levels of foot traffic and dirt.

Lesley Taylor, founder of Baked Tiles, explains where to start when choosing the right flooring for this space. "Hallways are not precious spaces – they are hardworking spaces. You want something that has character when it is beautifully clean, but that can also cope with muddy shoes, shopping bags and real life without making you panic every time somebody comes through the door.

"This is the room where grit, rain, mud and footprints first arrive – a very flat, uniform floor can show absolutely everything," she warns. "Tonal variation is your friend here. It gives the floor life, but it also means you are not looking at every tiny speck between cleans."

Ian Tomlinson, managing director at Chaunceys Timber Flooring, has some advice on choosing the best types of wooden flooring for hallways that lie on the narrower side of the scale. "The best flooring choice for a narrow hallway depends largely on the property’s style and décor. If the space lacks natural light, lighter-toned oak flooring is an excellent option to brighten the area and create a more open feel. Opting for wide, extra-long planks can further enhance the sense of space by reducing the number of visible joints, making the hallway feel less confined. Alternatively, herringbone flooring is a timeless and stylish pattern that works beautifully in narrow hallways."

Adam Robertson, managing director at Urbane Living, explains how your flooring can also help when it comes to ensuring the hallway feels like a natural part of the rest of the house. "If the hallway connects to other rooms or staircases, continuity is key. A seamless floor finish across adjoining spaces creates visual flow and prevents the landing from feeling boxed in. Where possible, opt for wide planks or a subtle herringbone pattern to elongate the space and draw the eye through."

5. Failing to provide a dedicated 'dumping spot'

Entrance hallways are busy spaces and, at particular times of the day, such as when rushing out of the house for the school run, or when welcoming in a group of guests, they can feel particularly chaotic.

This is why it is so important to carve out spaces that can cope with a sudden influx of clutter easily, as Simon Tchiernak explains. "Don't overlook the 'daily drop zone'. Not designing dedicated, enclosed storage for the small items that cause the most day-to-day stress – keys, mail, dog leads, school bags, and laptops – means that these inevitably end up strewn across surfaces or the floor."

So what does Simon suggest? "Integrate smart, shallow transitional storage. A bespoke slimline console with concealed drawers gives mail and keys an immediate home without eating into walking space. If floor area allows, some built-in storage ideas such as dedicated, closed cabinetry tailored with internal charging points and cubbies for work and school bags ensures the morning rush is seamless and the floor remains entirely clear."

6. Leaving lighting as an afterthought

Just because you might not be spending lots of time in your hallway, it doesn't mean the lighting design isn't still an important aspect of the space.

"One of the biggest hallway mistakes is relying on a single overhead light. Hallways benefit from layered lighting just like any other room," says Holly Scott. "Wall lights, table lamps and decorative fittings create a much warmer welcome, and pairing lighting with a mirror can help bounce light around the space too. Think about how you want your home to feel when you walk through the front door in the evening, rather than simply making the hallway bright."

Sophie Chapman also points out the importance of considering natural light along with your artificial hallway lighting ideas. "Hallways can struggle for natural light, particularly in period homes, so relying on one ceiling pendant can leave them feeling gloomy. Wall lights, discreet ceiling lighting and lamps where space allows can make a huge difference. We also look for opportunities to borrow daylight from adjoining rooms through glazed doors or openings, and to create clear sightlines towards a window, garden or interesting feature beyond."

"Position a statement mirror adjacent to or opposite a doorway or window to bounce incoming daylight deeper into the space – doubling as a well-lit spot for last-minute checks on your way out," adds Simon Tcherniak.

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7. Treating it as separate from the rest of the house

Creating a natural sense of 'flow' throughout your home is so important – otherwise it will be left feeling like a set of awkward, disjointed spaces. You hallway might be an airlock between outside and in, but that doesn't mean it can't also feel like part of the rest of the layout.

"When I’m designing a hallway, I don’t just look at the hallway itself. I think about what you see when you open the front door and also the views through into adjoining rooms," reveals Holly Scott. "Those little glimpses of colour, wallpaper or artwork can help draw you through the house and make the whole scheme feel connected. Your hallway is often the thread that links several rooms together, so those sightlines really matter."

Eloise Pfeiffer, interior designer at Pfeiffer Design, agrees that the hallway needs to feel like an integral part of your space and that your hallway paint ideas should be included in that. "The hallway should be considered as part of the wider home – good spatial planning, thoughtful storage and a cohesive palette can make it feel purposeful and welcoming, rather than simply a passage between rooms."

8. Leaving it without an adequate heat source

Hallways can be cold spaces thanks to the fact that they are often left open to the elements for periods of time – plus draught proofing and proper insulation can also get overlooked here.

My own hallway is one of the coldest rooms in the house, largely due to the ill-fitting front door and the fact that the radiator is usually covered by the coats that hang above it. According to Nick Duggan, director at The Radiator Centre, this lack of attention to hallway radiators is a common one. "One mistake that’s easily made is choosing your radiator without thinking about what else needs to go in the hallway. It’s easy to use the first available piece of wall, but once you add some hooks, a bench or some storage for example, you can quickly find that your radiator is being blocked by coats or furniture. Ideally, try to think about the whole layout before deciding where it should go, and try to keep the area around the radiator clear so that the heat can circulate properly.

"Don’t assume your radiator has to be something you hide away though," continues Nick. "There are plenty of attractive shapes and finishes available, from bold colours to mirrored designs, so the radiator can become part of your whole scheme rather than just an afterthought. A well-chosen radiator can be a really nice finishing touch to a hallway, besides a practical necessity."

9. Letting awkward spaces go to waste

And, finally, it is common to encounter some pretty awkward spaces within a hallway – but it is important not to let them turn into wasted space or to view them as only good for additional or understairs storage – sometimes it is better to think a little creatively.

"Hallways often have awkward corners or areas beneath stairs that get completely overlooked. They don’t always need to be filled with storage," picks up Holly Scott. "If storage isn’t an issue, an unused area can become a lovely little design moment with a chair, artwork, a lamp or a beautiful cabinet. It gives the hallway personality and makes it feel considered rather than simply somewhere you walk through."

However, if you really do need additional storage, Simon Tchiernak has some advice on how to maximise these tricky spaces. "Use the vertical height of the room. Custom, floor-to-ceiling fitted joinery can make use of awkward alcoves, under-stair angles, and high ceiling space with a much shallower footprint than freestanding pieces. By blending storage finishes into the wall palette, the cabinetry recedes into the background, leaving the hallway feeling wider, brighter, and effortlessly composed."

FAQs

What is the best way to store coats in a hallway?

In my own hallway it tends to be the coats that take over the space. They hang from a rail of hooks which is totally overcrowded – so I asked the experts how they suggest coping with this issue.

"The problem with hallway hooks is that people tend to choose them when the wall is empty. That is when everything looks beautifully neat. The real question is what happens once six coats, a couple of bags and a dog lead are hanging from them," says Gareth Hull, design lead at Hendel & Hendel. "A hook might only project a few centimetres from the wall, but the coat hanging on it can project much further, and in a narrow hallway, those few centimetres really matter.

"Spacing is just as important as the hook itself," adds Gareth. "I would not automatically line everything up at equal intervals simply because it looks tidy on paper. Think about what is actually going there. A heavy winter coat needs more room than a tote bag, while a lower hook can be far more useful for children or for something you want to grab quickly on the way out."

Finally, Simon Tchiernak suggests trying to scale back on what you actually store in the hallway if things are getting a little overcrowded. "Overloading open hooks and racks creates visual noise and makes the entryway feel tight and chaotic. Practice seasonal curation. Hallways should only host high-rotation, current-season essentials – coats, everyday shoes and the bags you need today. Off-season items, heavy sporting gear, and occasional footwear should be housed elsewhere."

Boot rooms work in a similar way to entrance hallways, although arguably need to be even more hardwearing. Make sure you are familiar with the most common boot room mistakes before getting stuck into the design process to ensure your boot room ideas well for you.

Throw into the mix mood lighting, media wall wiring and even features such as air con, and it becomes less about how many plug sockets you need in your living room, and more about whether your home electrical system is actually able to cope.

With the risks from electrical fires and overloaded circuits ones every homeowner would rather avoid, here's what experts say you need to check and consider before embarking on multi-purpose living room design.

Why you might have an electrical problem

In new or self-build homes, it's likely your electrical system has been designed with an electro-tech home – or at least hi-tech home – in mind.

However, when it comes to older properties – the ones that make up a vast percentage of housing stock in the UK – the reality is they were never designed for a world where electronic devices ruled the roost.

“The modern living room looks very different to the one many homes were originally built with. Homeowners are increasingly installing media walls, smart lighting, entertainment systems and home office equipment, often alongside existing electrical installations that may already be decades old," states Paul Collins, technical director at NICEIC, the UK’s leading certification body for the electrical industry.

Add to this a changing shift in lifestyles, with many homeowners working in either hybrid roles or fully remote from home, the living room has become more than just a place to escape to at the end of the day.

Instead, it's a room that's often in use from morning to bedtime, and can change its identity throughout the day – from home office space to dining space and then an entertainment zone. And with this comes all manner of different requirements.

Signs you may have a problem

While we'll come onto what you should do before upgrading your living room electrics, if you're already knee-deep in consoles and gadgets, there are warning signs to look out for that could indicate you've asked a little too much of your current set-up.

These include:

• Circuit breakers and/or RCDs that trip repeatedly
• Fuses that blow
• Flickering or dimming lights
• Buzzing socket outlets or switches
• Warm or discoloured socket outlets
• Damage to socket outlets or switches
• Too many extension leads and multi-way adaptors

“If you experience issues such as tripping, flickering lights, buzzing or unusually warm socket outlets, you should have your installation checked immediately," warns Paul Collins, "as these can all indicate an underlying issue which may also pose a safety risk.”

It's also sensible to take into account electrical problems that occur outside of the living room, he notes as, "you can’t assume that an issue will be confined to a single room. The root of any electrical problems will depend on how your electrical installation, including the circuits and protective devices have been arranged.”

How to prevent electrical overload in a living room

So what can you do to prevent any problems occurring in the first place? First and foremost, before you undertake any home renovation plans involving electrics (however big or small), if you are working with an older property, a professional check is essential.

In the case of living rooms, “if you’re planning a major change such as the addition of a media wall or additional socket outlets, the best thing to do is have your electrical installation checked by an NICEIC-registered electrician," confirms Paul Collins. "They can look at the condition of the installation, the plans you have, and let you know what work you may need to have done.”

It's also something I've personally done when extending properties as well. Even in those houses that aren't particularly old, it's always wise to check that they have the capacity for taking on more. Kitchen extensions are one of the most popular ways of extending, but as with living rooms, they are rooms filled with electrical equipment that will increase your overall load.

Low-energy products are also a must if you want to keep a lid on your rising energy costs.

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Bespoke furniture dos and don'ts

With media walls a popular choice in many living rooms, providing both living room storage and a neater way to hide your gizmos and gadgets, it's also important to look at the bigger picture when choosing your final design says Gail Bignell, head of design at Sharps.

“When we design fitted furniture around a television or other technology, the starting point is not simply where the TV will sit, but how the whole set-up needs to work. A modern living room can easily include a router, soundbar, games console, streaming box, speakers and integrated lighting, all of which need power, connectivity and, in some cases, regular access. If you only plan around what will be visible once the furniture is finished, it is very easy to create problems behind the cabinetry," she explains.

“One of the most useful things a homeowner can do before the furniture is designed is map out every piece of technology they expect to use. Think about what needs power, what needs a data or HDMI connection and, just as importantly, how often you will need to get to it," she continues.

"A router may be something you want to hide, for example, but it still needs to remain accessible and positioned somewhere it can work effectively, while a games console may need much more frequent access. Those practical differences should help determine where equipment is housed within the design.

“Socket position then becomes a really important part of the planning. You do not want to find that an existing socket has ended up behind a fixed panel or in a place that is almost impossible to reach once the furniture has been installed," she warns. This is where problems can start happening when extension leads get added into the mix and cables become stretched or bent.

"During the design and survey process, we can identify where sockets may need to be moved or where additional power points could be useful, with any electrical work then carried out separately by a qualified electrician before installation. The same principle applies to wiring," continues Gail.

"Cables should be hidden, but they should never be trapped. Cable ports and carefully planned routes through shelving, desktops or cabinetry allow wiring to disappear from view while still making it possible to trace, replace or remove a cable in future if something changes."

The importance of good ventilation

“Ventilation is another area that is often overlooked," warns Gail Bignel. "Technology generates heat, particularly when several devices are housed together, so completely enclosing equipment simply for the sake of a cleaner look can create problems. There needs to be enough space around devices for air to circulate and for heat to escape, which is why the internal layout of the furniture matters just as much as the way it looks from the outside.

“I would also avoid designing a media wall too tightly around the technology you own today," she adds. "Fitted furniture is designed to last for years, while technology can change much more quickly. Screens get larger, routers are replaced and new devices are added, so allowing some flexibility in shelving, cable routes and access points can make the furniture far easier to live with over time.

“The best bespoke media furniture should make technology feel discreet and integrated into your living room ideas, but it should never make it difficult to maintain," she concludes. "If you have to dismantle cabinetry simply to change a cable or replace a router, the space has not been planned properly.”

FAQs

Should you limit the electrical load in a living room?

Although from the point of view of managing your energy bills it's important to choose energy-efficient products where possible, it's impossible to design a living room with a specific load in mind says Paul Collins.

“There is no typical electrical single average load for a modern living room, as it will vary depending on the type, number, and rating of the equipment being used at the same time. However, modern televisions, laptops, games consoles, chargers and LED lighting are generally more energy-efficient than older products," he agrees, so this can help.

In addition, “when buying new appliances or electrical equipment, make sure you look at the energy label and choose the most efficient products you can," he continues. "For example A-rated appliances are a much more efficient option than a G-rated appliance. You can also reduce electricity use by switching off equipment and appliances when they are not in use, rather than leaving it on standby.”

Although living rooms are a prime location for electrical overload, it's important to make sure your whole home is up to standard and doesn't need rewiring before you start, concludes Paul Collins. “It’s not necessarily about using more electricity in one room. It’s about the growing complexity of the electrical installation in homes and our increasing dependence on it. When electrical systems have been added to or altered over many years, it’s important that the installation remains safe and suitable for how the home is used today.”

If you do find you need a total upgrade, here's how much to budget for rewiring costs, and if you are considering adding additional electrical features to your home, such as an EV charger, make sure you also understand the changes to regulations which dictate where you can install electrical systems in or around your home.

When it comes to designing a bathroom, a clean, unfussy aesthetic is understandably one that many people aim for – yet as a room which needs to feel like a soothing sanctuary, it is important to seek ways to bring in design elements that balance out the sleek, minimalist, functional details.

My own bathroom is definitely lacking in warm and toasty vibes and, with a remodel on the cards, I am keen to discover the best ways to ensure that the new space looks and feels both up-to-date, as well as inviting. I reached out to a range of bathroom design experts for their advice.

1. Assess the space as a whole before making decor decisions

While it is tempting to dive headfirst into all those lovely bathroom design ideas you've been gathering together, it is really important to start the process of creating a contemporary, yet cosy, bathroom by assessing what you are working with first.

Keeley Sutcliffe, design manager at BC Designs, has some suggestions of how to kick off the process. "Sit in the bath for a moment and look around. We tend to judge a bathroom from the doorway, rather than from the place where we’re hoping to relax. From the bath, you might notice a spotlight shining straight at you or realise that your towel is frustratingly out of reach. Next, think about what would help you settle in comfortably. Where there’s room, a small table gives you somewhere for a book or a cup of tea, rather than balancing everything on the edge of the bath. Just leave enough space to get in and out easily. Those are the details I’d tackle before adding in more decoration.

"Don’t be too quick to blame the white bath, either," adds Keeley. "It may simply be surrounded by too much more of the same. Against a warmer painted wall, with a little timber nearby, that same bath can look much more inviting. You can keep the clean lines you liked in the first place without having everything around them feel quite so stark."

2. Lighting is key to achieving the right ambience

The importance of getting your bathroom lighting right cannot be over-emphasised. In my own bathroom, an uninspiring grid of recessed downlighters is made only marginally better by the oversized Edison bulb that sits above the mirror – getting a little more creative in the illumination department would definitely help add character.

Matthew Kallum, founder of Kallums Bathrooms, explains just how impactful lighting can be on modern bathrooms. "A bathroom can have all the right materials and still feel cold if it is lit harshly. Rather than relying entirely on overhead downlights, layer the lighting with wall lights around the mirror and use a warmer colour temperature.

"Putting the lighting on dimmers is another simple change that allows the atmosphere of the room to shift from bright and functional in the morning, to softer and more relaxing in the evening," adds Matthew.

3. Texture is just as important as colour

While colour can undeniably add lots in the way of visual warmth to a bathroom, if you want to keep things looking fresh and modern, texture is, arguably even more important than the shades you choose – particularly if you are a lover of neutral bathroom ideas.

Richard Skeoch, company director at Hyperion Tiles, explains that your bathroom tile ideas can really help when it comes to adding interest. "Texture is just as important as colour, and tiles with a matt finish or subtle variation in the glaze are great for adding depth to your scheme. In the evening, when the lighting is softer, those gentle variations catch the light beautifully, helping to create a layered feel that makes the bathroom feel more inviting.

"Matt and lightly textured surfaces feel softer and more organic than highly polished finishes, creating a gentle, understated backdrop that's easy to live with," continues Richard. "Natural stone-effect porcelain tiles are particularly effective, offering all the beauty of natural materials while being durable and easy to maintain."

Matthew Kallum agrees that softer, matt textures work better than high gloss if it is visual warmth you are after. "We look to honed or matt finishes rather than highly polished surfaces, as they soften the way light behaves in the room. Fluted and ribbed surfaces are another favourite as they introduce subtle shadow and give the eye something more tactile to engage with. Microcement can work beautifully too, particularly when used on a single wall. It creates depth without introducing lots of grout lines or visual noise."

Finally, Richard has some words of wisdom on which bathroom colours tend to work well for a cosier modern bathroom. "For a bathroom that feels rich and comforting in the evening, I recommend moving away from bright, clinical finishes and instead opting for warmer, more natural colours. Soft taupe, earthy greens, warm greys and stone-inspired tones all help create a calmer atmosphere, particularly when paired with warm, softer lighting."

4. Bring in warmth through thoughtful details

The success of any house design ideas always lies in those smaller details – yet all too often they get overlooked or deemed insignificant.

"Pay attention to the details," picks up Matthew Kallum. "Brushed brass or aged bronze can bring more warmth than polished chrome, while textured towels, a timber stool or natural stone accessories introduce softer, tactile elements. They may be small details but they are often what you notice when you walk into a space."

Gareth Hull, design lead at Hendel & Hendel , goes on to explain the importance of hardware too. "There’s more to warming up a modern vanity than swapping chrome handles for brass. An angular brass pull can still have quite a hard-edged appearance, whereas a gently rounded handle might be just the contrast a flat-fronted cabinet needs. I’d look at the shape alongside the metal, rather than expecting the finish to do all the work. Texture needs the same judgement. On very simple bathroom furniture, a smoother curve or a little detail at the end of a pull can introduce character without making the whole piece feel decorative.

"Also, you don’t need to change the bathroom taps simply because you’re changing the cabinet handles," adds Gareth. "Try the new finish against the furniture, worktop and existing metalwork before assuming everything has to match."

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5. Combine warm colours with modern tiling techniques

There is no need to shun either walls tiles or warm colours for a bathroom to feel modern – it all comes down to making wise choices and, once again, looking at what you already have to work with.

Lesley Taylor, interior designer and founder at Baked Tiles, explains how assessing your existing tiles and picking a wall colour to bring out their cosier tones can sometimes be all that's needed. "Have a really good look at the tiles, because there may already be something in them you can work with. A grey stone-effect floor might have a little warm brown running through it, and picking that up in paint or textiles gives you a much better starting point than bringing in an unrelated shade.

"If you are changing some of the tiling, don’t assume gloss is the enemy of a cosy bathroom," adds Lesley. "I love a glaze with a little unevenness, where the light catches some parts more than others – it brings character without needing a busy pattern. Just give the grout as much thought as the tile. A close colour keeps the overall effect gentle, while a strong contrast outlines every tile and creates a much more graphic finish."

Richard Skeoch also has some advice on how to tile a wall in a modern bathroom without a clinical end result. "Consider how the tiles flow throughout the room. If possible, try to use the same tile across the floor and into the shower as this will create a more seamless finish, helping the space feel larger and more luxurious. The overall effect is a bathroom that feels less functional and more like a private retreat where you can unwind at the end of the day."

6. Introduce some rich timber finishes

Bringing some natural materials, such as stone or timber, into a bathroom will instantly lend a laid-back, inviting vibe.

If you feel a little wary about using wooden flooring in bathroom, Ian Tomlinson, MD of Chaunceys Timber Flooring, has some reassuring advice. "Wood can significantly enhance the cosiness of a bathroom, transforming it into a warm and inviting sanctuary. Wood flooring brings a timeless sense of tradition and a deep connection to nature. While it’s often assumed that wood isn’t suitable for areas with frequent water exposure, it can perform beautifully in bathrooms when the right types of wood flooring are selected, proper precautions are taken and the space is well-ventilated with good extraction to prevent moisture build-up.

"Blending wood and tile flooring is a thoughtful way to define distinct zones within a bathroom while embracing both functionality and style," continues Ian. "Wood introduces warmth and an organic, natural element, while tiles offer practicality in wet areas. Together, they embody the wabi-sabi philosophy of creating a harmonious, welcoming space that feels grounded and serene."

7. Don't shy away from wooden wall panelling

While we're on the topic of using timber finishes in the bathroom, do take the time to consider using wooden wall panelling – it is definitely not just for traditional spaces.

Adam Robertson, MD of Urbane Living, explains why this idea works so well in modern bathrooms. "Wood wall panelling can bring warmth and character to a bathroom and, when designed correctly, can work beautifully in these spaces."

That said, Adam is also keen to highlight that care needs to be taken with installation and positioning to ensure the longevity of bathroom panelling. "Moisture management needs to be considered from the outset. Steam, condensation and poor bathroom ventilation will all affect timber over time, so an effective extractor fan and good airflow are essential.

"Positioning is equally important," adds Adam. "Do not use wood panelling inside shower enclosures or in areas that are regularly exposed to direct water. Instead, consider incorporating timber on feature walls or behind vanity units, where it can add texture and visual interest without being subjected to constant moisture. The finish also plays a crucial role. A high quality lacquer or specialist water resistant treatment will provide greater protection and make surfaces easier to maintain. Slatted timber panels are a popular choice, but they need to be installed carefully to ensure moisture cannot become trapped behind them."

8. Soften the look by using fabrics in unexpected places

And, finally, while fabric finishes are often avoided in bathrooms, there are ways of introducing them successfully – and this can be a great way to warm an otherwise stark space, as Debbie Leigh, design manager at ILIVexplains. "Textiles are a really useful way to soften a modern bathroom and make it feel more cosy. Bathroom window dressings are particularly important because they control the natural light, which can completely change the atmosphere of your room. To soften a contemporary scheme, you might like to try a relaxed linen or linen look fabric in a warm, natural shade.

"Another idea to soften a modern bathroom is to try using fabric in less expected places, such as a simple curtain beneath a vanity or basin," adds Debbie. "As well as hiding bottles and potions, the fabric will also add some softness, colour and pattern to what can otherwise be quite a hard, streamlined space.

"I would suggest looking for fabrics which have some texture to them as well, and picking colours that you’ve used elsewhere in the room so that it all ties in together."

FAQs

How do you make a modern shower enclosure feel cosy?

While clean, modern shower enclosures can look stunning, there are ways of ensuring they don't feel cold or sterile without ruining their crisp lines.

"We tend to think of a shower tray as another white bathroom fitting, but visually it forms part of the floor, particularly behind a clear shower screen. A bright-white tray can therefore stand out quite sharply in a room where you’ve worked hard to make everything else feel softer," points out Richard Eaton, design manager at Tissino.

"When you’re updating a shower, put the tray sample next to the floor tile before matching it to the basin and toilet. You don’t need an exact match, and trying to achieve one across different materials can be frustrating. What matters is how the two finishes look together, not whether they have the same colour name. Two versions of taupe can be surprisingly different, so comparing the samples side by side is far more useful than choosing from descriptions.

"There’s no need to add texture everywhere, either," adds Richard. "If the bathroom flooring already has plenty of pattern or variation, a smooth tray in a complementary shade can provide a quieter area within the scheme. That’s a useful way to make a modern shower feel less stark without adding more detail to it. I wouldn’t suggest replacing a perfectly good tray just to change the mood of a bathroom, though. This is something to get right when the shower needs updating; for a room that’s otherwise staying as it is, start with the smaller changes."

If you are keen to make sure your modern bathroom really is kitted out with all the latest products, make sure you also keep up-to-speed with current bathroom innovations – they are constantly being updated. And, for an instant modern bathroom style that still has warmth, take a look at these Scandi bathroom ideas to inspire you.

Plywood may not seem like an obvious option for a budget-friendly kitchen worktop, but it can be.

Here we take a closer look at the benefits a plywood worktop can bring, which plywood you will need to use, how to treat and maintain it so it will stay looking good for years, and why it might not always be the best choice for your renovation.

What is plywood?

Plywood is an engineered wood made of thin layers of wood bonded together with glue and resin. It has an odd number of layers, with each layer rotated 90 degrees from the next to improve strength and resist warping.

This design feature is what makes it a suitable choice for worktops if treated correctly. It is commonly available in 3mm, 6mm, 9mm, 12mm, 15mm and 18mm, with 18mm being a good option for kitchen worktops.

Best plywood for kitchen workops

Several plywood variations suit kitchen worktops. Will Frankling from Kitchen Makeovers explains the different types to look out for. “Birch plywood is the industry standard due to its dense, void-free core layers and fine grain. Hardwood-faced plywood is recommended over softwood options," he continues, "as softwoods dent and scratch too easily for kitchen use.”

Another option is Marine plywood and Will explains why: “It offers superior water resistance due to waterproof glue bonds, making it a strong candidate for wet areas. High-grade exterior or structural plywood (such as B/BB grade) should be specified to ensure a smooth face for finishing and minimal internal core gaps.”

Shop these for the perfect plywood kitchen worktop

Pros and cons of plywood as a kitchen worktop

Plywood has distinct advantages as a kitchen worktop, but it also has definite downsides. Here, we look at both to help you decide whether it meets your needs.

Pros of plywood for worktops

+Lower costs

“The main appeal for plywood is cost,” shares Bern Staerck, managing director of Furniture Clinic. He adds, “It is considerably cheaper than traditional marble, quartz or even butcher block style wood worktops.” However, good-quality plywood can match low-cost laminate.

+Aesthetic appeal

“Plywood offers a distinct, modern aesthetic with visible edge layering, strong structural stability and excellent resistance to warping compared to solid wood,” shares Will Frankling. “It's ideal for a Scandi or industrial style kitchen; the liner striped edges create a striking design feature," adds Bern.

+DIY-friendly

Plywood is much easier to work with than other kitchen worktop materials too. You only need a few tools that a lot of DIYers will already own and know how to use.

Cons of plywood worktops

-Susceptible to moisture

“Raw plywood is highly susceptible to moisture damage, particularly around kitchen sink areas, warns Will Frankling. “Without proper sealing, water can penetrate the layers, leading to delamination, swelling and staining.”

-Wear and tear

Plywood is not as hard-wearing as more traditional kitchen worktops such either; it will show signs of wear and tear and needs regular treatment. Ben Staerck points out: “If you scratch the plywood or scorch it with a hot pan, it can mark quite easily, and will also discolour if spills aren’t cleaned up quickly.”

Treating and protecting plywood

Untreated plywood simply won't work as a kitchen worktop warn the experts. It will damage quickly and absorb moisture. Before it can be a kitchen worktop, it needs treatment and there are a few options. "Oil would always be my recommendation for treating plywood for a kitchen,” shares Bern Staerk.

“It penetrates the wood, rather than sitting on top as a 'film'. It doesn’t crack or chip, and if it wears in one area, you can simply sand and re-oil that specific area, rather than the whole worktop,” he explains.

"Hardwax oils and specialised worktop oils are ideal as they allow the wood to breathe while providing liquid resistance,” agrees Will Frankling. A clear varnish is another option, he continues: "Varnish or polyurethane can create a tough, protective barrier.” But he adds a word of warning. "If cracked, water can seep underneath and rot the wood from within.”

Finally, “all treatments applied must be food-safe once cured,” notes Will. Ben recommends Furniture Clinic Worktop Oil - available from Amazon as "it is a dedicated food-safe option (compliant with the Materials and Articles in Contact with Food Regulations).”

Maintaining a plywood kitchen worktop

Like any kitchen worktop, plywood will need regular daily cleaning. Will Frankling suggests: “Clean daily with warm water, mild soap and a soft microfibre cloth. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners, bleach or abrasive pads.”

Like any natural wood worktop, it will also need regular re-treating. “Re-oil or seal every 3 to 6 months depending on usage," he advises. “Exposed edges require special attention, as end-grain absorbs moisture rapidly and needs additional coats of sealant.”

Ben Staerk offers a quick way to assess when it's time to re-treat: “Try a couple of drops of water on the surface, and if it no longer beads on the surface, it's time to re-coat.”

Comparative costs

Is plywood really a cheap alternative for a kitchen worktop? Yes is the simple answer. However, more expensive plywood can cost the same, or even more than budget-friendly laminate.

For example, a 2440mm x 1220mm sheet of quality 18mm Birch Plywood Throughout BB/BB from B&Q costs around £180. A Burlington oak wood-effect laminate and particleboard Post-formed edge Kitchen Worktop from B&Q costs £75. This is the lowest price you are likely to pay for a laminate worktop.

However, as it can be cut, a sheet of 2440mm x 1220mm plywood provides two 2.4m x 620mm lengths (the standard width for kitchen worktops is 600mm) compared with the laminate mentioned, which offers a single 2.4 m length.

Other options such as Marble, quartz, stone and even solid wood and Corian worktops will typically all cost more than a treated plywood alternative.

DIY tips for making your own plywood worktop

Fitting a plywood kitchen worktop yourself is a clear way to save money, and a task a competent DIYer (like myself) can tackle. Especially if you have a straight run and few corners. Before you start, look at your old worktops and note how they're fitted, especially in the corners.

Straight walls are a real bonus when fitting worktops. If the straight edge of the plywood doesn't sit flush against the wall, you can get away with gaps of up to around 5mm, especially if you're tiling above the worktops.

If you have larger gaps, you'll need to cut the back of the plywood accordingly. A quick tip: place the board in position and use an old-school compass with a pencil. Set the width to match the widest gap, then place the point against the wall and move along the worktop to mark a cut line. Then use a jigsaw like this Lumberjack Professional Jigsaw from B&Q to follow the pencil line for a neat fit.

You also need a few more tools. A decent circular saw like this Einhell 1410W Hand-held Circular Saw from Argos is essential for straight cuts, and you'll need a router like this DeWalt 900W 240V Corded Fixed Router from B&Q for sink cutouts.

For a professional finish, Will Frankling offers easy-to-follow advice: “Use a fine-toothed blade on a circular saw or router to prevent tearing the top veneer layer when cutting.”

My DIY hack to save money

If you're not keen on plywood's natural finish, or want a cheaper alternative, one option I have tried myself is basic plywood topped with self-adhesive plastic. Adding self-adhesive film means you don't have to worry about the plywood's finish. This allows you to buy basic plywood and keep the costs down.

You will however still need to seal the plywood before applying the film. Before you apply it, round off the plywood edges with an orbital sander. Use PVA, varnish, or a primer like Dulux Trade Aqua Uniprimer from B&Q or Bartoline Multi-Purpose PVA Adhesive & Sealer from Amazon to seal. Ensure the sealer is completely dry before applying the film.

I used this D-C-Fix Ribbeck Oak Mid Sheen Wood Effect Vinyl Self-Adhesive Film from B&Q. Treat the worktop with caution; the film is heat-resistant up to 70 degrees, so use trivets like these Silicone Trivets from Amazon for hot pans, and always use a chopping board.

Plywood worktops can form a part of any kitchen renovation. Check out our kitchen layout ideas, small kitchen ideas, and white kitchen ideas to make them part of your new kitchen.

Over the years, the bathroom's status within the home has gradually morphed, taking it from a purely functional space into one of the upmost importance. It is now the room in which we look forward to retreating, either to unwind and relax after a long day, or to revive ourselves ready for whatever the day ahead might bring.

Making sure we can do all that while enjoying a sense of privacy is paramount when designing a bathroom. To help you achieve a secluded space, we've rounded up a collection of expert-approved ideas that promise privacy, lots of daylight and durability.

1. Make privacy a priority during the planning stages

If you are lucky enough to be in the process of planning a new bathroom from scratch or are renovating a bathroom, you are in a stronger position than many when it comes to ensuring the privacy of the space.

One of the biggest bathroom layout mistakes is to fail to take into consideration the placement of windows in relation to your shower and bath, leaving whoever is using them feeling uncomfortably exposed. Additionally, water spray can damage timber windows.

Locating your basin in front of the window, as in the example above, affords you views out, while the bathing and showering areas are kept away from potentially prying eyes.

2. Add wooden window shutters for a fresh, timeless look

Not only do window shutters add a beautiful timeless look to any room they grace, they are also perfect where privacy is the order of the day. They offer huge flexibility too, letting as much or as little natural light as you want through – some can even be opened up completely when privacy is not required.

Be on the lookout for window shutters that are specifically designed to withstand the humid climate of a bathroom as some wooden designs have the tendency to warp or split when constantly exposed to moisture.

If you are concerned about this, take time to research the best bathroom extractor fans – they can take the pressure off all your bathroom finishes and help reduce the risk of mould too.

3. Fit high-level windows for privacy and great ventilation

High-level windows, such as clerestory windows, are the ideal solution for anyone keen to introduce natural light in a way that doesn't leave you feeling too on show.

Keeley Sutcliffe, design manager at BC Designs, agrees that high-level glazing is a great way to negate the need for shielding methods altogether. "Window height makes a big difference. If the opening sits above eye level, you already have a degree of natural privacy, so you often don’t need a heavy blind or shutter covering the whole thing. In that situation, textured or frosted glazing can be enough on its own."

If you can fit an opening high-level window this will also aid with bathroom ventilation, allowing the hot, steamy air that naturally rises a quick means of escape.

4. Go for window film for the lower section of windows

Window film is such an easy and affordable way to add a level of privacy to your bathroom window ideas and comes in a whole host of stylish designs that will actively upgrade the design of your bathroom.

Micky Calcott, founder of The Window Film Company, explains why now is a particularly good time to consider fitting it. “Privacy often becomes much more noticeable as we move into autumn. During the day you might not think twice about an overlooked window, but once it gets darker outside and the lights are on indoors, it can feel completely different.

"Frosted or decorative window film is a simple way to create privacy without blocking the window altogether," continues Micky. "You can also apply film to just the lower section of the glass, which is useful for street-facing rooms where you want to obscure the direct sightline while keeping the top of the window clear."

Shop decorative window film

5. Consider fitting switchable privacy glass

The world of glazing innovations has come so far in recent years meaning there are now types of glass for all kinds of requirements, from those that prevent overheating, to acoustic glass that makes life near a busy road a little more peaceful.

Switchable privacy glass is a brilliant solution for bathroom windows. Also known as 'smart glass', on a very simple level, when an electrical current is passed through two integrated films, the glass turns from translucent to transparent.

Keeley Sutcliffe is a big fan of anything that means additional window treatments will not be required, citing frosted glass as a good example. "The simplest privacy solutions are often built into the glass itself rather than layering something over it. An obscured or softly frosted pane gives you privacy exactly where you need it, but still allows the window to behave as a source of daylight, which is especially important in a smaller bathroom."

6. Bring in light from above with a bathroom rooflight

Rooflights come in so useful for all kinds of situations, from loft conversions to side-return extensions which need to take overlooking into account.

In a bathroom, a rooflight not only provides a way of bringing in light without compromising privacy, but will also carry out the job of whisking steamy or stale air away quickly.

Camilla Masi, interior designer at Otto Tiles & Design, further highlights the benefits of these types of windows. "Many of the projects we work on, especially here in the UK, involve bathrooms in loft conversions or ground floor extensions, where there’s an opportunity to introduce a skylight. Bringing daylight in from above can give you privacy without needing to cover a conventional window, provided the skylight isn’t overlooked by taller neighbouring buildings, of course."

7. Inject some cosy vibes with wooden Venetian blinds

Venetian blinds are a brilliant solution for all kinds of needs, whether you are looking for a way of shading your kitchen windows or want a flexible solution for your home office, shading your screen at certain times of day but still allowing you to fully open them up once the sun has moved.

When choosing Venetian blinds for your bathroom, do be sure to look for those made from moisture-resistant materials. While timber is perfect for bringing in a sense of warmth, you need to select blinds that are going to stand the test of time.

Be on the lookout for composites that are labelled as suitable for use in bathrooms and kitchens.

8. Don't shun fabric blinds and curtains altogether

The softer look of fabric blinds – and even curtains – can often be a really welcome thing in the bathroom, where you need to avoid things feeling too cold or sterile.

The good news is that this option doesn't have to be off the table completely, as Camilla Masi explains. "For windows in rooms that are more humid or exposed to moisture, I’d look for a blind in a fabric specifically made for those conditions. There are lots of options, including waterproof fabrics, coatings or backings. It’s also worth considering outdoor fabrics which, because of their nature, have specialist water and mildew resistance.

"My preference is for natural fabrics, such as linen, which bring softness and texture into a bathroom. A linen Roman blind can work beautifully where there’s good ventilation and the window is away from direct splashes," continues Camilla. "A café curtain is another lovely option, covering the lower part of the window while leaving the upper section open to daylight. With sheer fabrics, it’s worth checking privacy after dark with the bathroom lighting on, as well as during the day."

9. Set your window just above your bath for extra privacy

If you love the idea of taking a bath while enjoying views of the great outdoors, you don't have to resign yourself to leaving yourself on show to your neighbours while doing so – it all comes down to window placement.

A window set a little higher than your bathtub will do the job of bringing in light as well as affording you glimpses of outside but should still hide you from the sight of anyone who might happen to have a direct view into your bathroom.

If repositioning a window isn't a viable option for you, perhaps you could consider some different types of baths such as a deep Japanese-style tub which could sit out of eyeline in a corner but sill allow for garden views.

10. Turn your privacy window treatments into a focal point

While the primary function of your windows is to let light in and, in some cases, provide a ventilation role, with the right treatment they can actually become one of your bathroom's strongest focal points.

Using your window coverings or treatments to inject a little personality is a great idea for those focused on modern bathroom ideas where things can get a little too stark or clinical at times.

The choice of window films is huge these days and you can even personalise your designs in some cases. If you prefer the idea of a blind or shutters, though, how about selecting something in a bold colour to add an individual touch?

11. Shield only the lower section with window shutters

It is worth bearing in mind that it is often only the lower section of a bathroom window that will need covering in order to ensure the space feels private.

You can do this in a number of ways – shutters that extend only halfway up the window are a great example, but adding window film to the bottom panes or even hanging sheer blinds from the centre point down to the sill are all options.

This solution comes with numerous benefits – it protects the bathroom from view, as well as allowing views out and natural light in. And, if that wasn't enough, it also happens to look super stylish and is a less visually heavy method than full shutters or blinds making it ideal for small bathrooms.

FAQs

Do you have to have a window in a bathroom?

Many people naturally assume that the Building Regulations would require bathrooms to have a window but this is not actually the case.

Providing you have some form of mechanical ventilation, such as an extractor fan, you don't have to install a window. That said, natural light does come with many benefits.

In the world of biophilic design, the wellness benefits of plenty of natural light are constantly highlighted and there is no denying the positive effect it has on mental health so, if at all possible, it is still wise to aim to incorporate some form of glazing if you want your bathroom to feel like a mood-boosting space to spend time.

Privacy is more important to some people than others. If you are not so much on the shy side, why not consider an open-plan bathroom, perhaps as part of a main bedroom suite? It's a great way to maximise space and, with the right design treatment, a degree of modesty can still be maintained.

The types of ceiling you have in your home is definitely something you need to take into consideration when designing your interior scheme. While owners of period properties, such as those built during the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian eras often enjoy lofty ceilings, deliberately constructed to be high to aid with the ventilation of open fires and cooking ranges, as well as allowing more natural light to flow into the central rooms, not all houses have the luxury of a tall fifth wall.

Whether you live in a cosy cottage or a new-build with low ceilings there are ways of designing the space to address this – in many cases these ceilings can even become features rather than something to be disguised. Here, designers debunk common myths about low-ceilinged spaces.

1. You don't have to paint the ceiling white

In my own house, an Edwardian property, there are a range of ceiling heights, spanning from a very generous 2.7m in the vaulted bedrooms, living room and kitchen, to what feels like a rather stingy 2.3m in the other reception rooms – which, interestingly, is the exact minimum ceiling height suggested by the Department for Levelling Up, Housing and Communities (DLUHC) for new homes.

We have recently been doing a spot of redecorating and, I have to admit, I had always thought that when it came to painting a ceiling, choosing anything but white paint (particularly for those on the lower side) would be a mistake. However, according to interior designer Holly Scott, I could be missing a trick.

"The instinct can be to immediately paint the ceiling white and try to make it disappear. I don’t think that always has to be the answer. For me, it’s much more about how you want the room to feel and working with its proportions, rather than fighting them.

"Using colour on a low ceiling can actually make a room feel much more considered," continues Holly. "When you take the colour up the walls and across the ceiling it blurs the boundary between wall and ceiling and makes the whole space seem really cocooning and intentional.

"In a room designed for relaxing, rather than trying to make it feel artificially tall and airy, embrace that cosier feeling," suggests Holly. "Colour drenching can work particularly well in snugs, bedrooms and sitting rooms for exactly this reason."

Holly goes on to point out that matching your wall colour to your painted ceiling ideas is not your only option, citing a recent bedroom scheme she worked on (below) as a good case in point.

"In one bedroom scheme, I used a beautiful blue on the ceiling with much lighter walls. The colour connects with the headboard, curtains and accessories and makes the ceiling feel like a deliberate part of the scheme rather than something we needed to hide."

That said, Holly does warn against using too much colour contrast when the ceiling is lower. "Lots of contrast between the walls and ceiling creates a very obvious line around the top of the room, which can draw attention to exactly where the ceiling starts, which you don't always want."

2. Pendant lights aren't necessarily a no-go

Getting the lighting for low ceilings just right is one of the most important things you can do to ensure the success of how the space looks and feels.

Traditionally, the use of pendant lights is something we've all been led to believe we should avoid in rooms with lower ceilings but, according to Holly Scott, there is no need to shun them entirely.

"I wouldn’t necessarily rule out a statement pendant or chandelier. A decorative light can still work beautifully over a bed or dining table, where you’re not walking directly underneath. It’s about getting the scale and drop right, rather than assuming a low ceiling means everything has to sit flush to it."

Michael Jackson, head of design at Northern Lights, says it is best to take a layered approach to your lighting design rather than relying solely on overhead lighting. "While flush or semi-flush ceiling lights might be the obvious choice where head height is limited, I wouldn't rely on the ceiling fittings to do all the work.

"Up-and-down wall lights can be particularly effective in these spaces," continues Michael. "The upward light draws the eye towards the ceiling, while the downward light brings illumination back into the room, making more of the wall feel visible and helping the room feel taller.

"Floor lamps and other low-level light sources are useful for the same reason," adds Michael. "They bring light further down into the room, creating pools of light around furniture, artwork or architectural details."

One thing both Holly and Michael were keen to avoid was the over-use of recessed downlighters. "A grid of downlights puts all the emphasis overhead and can make a low ceiling feel even more noticeable," explains Michael.

3. Small furniture isn't always the best solution

While it makes sense to assume that choosing dainty, light-of-form pieces of furniture is the best course of action when dealing with low-ceilinged spaces, according to the designers I spoke to, you need not feel you have to swerve more substantial pieces altogether.

Holly Scott suggests taking a mix-and-match, space-tailored approach rather than restricting yourself to one particular style.

"It is true that tall, bulky furniture can emphasise a low ceiling, so I tend to look for pieces that sit comfortably within the proportions of the space. Within living room design particularly, lower-backed sofas and furniture with visible legs can create more breathing space.

"That doesn’t mean filling the room with lots of small furniture though," explains Holly. "Too many little pieces can make a space feel cluttered and even smaller. I’d rather use fewer, well-proportioned pieces and give them some space."

Mark Caulfield, director at Glass House Architecture , reveals the approach he takes towards choosing furniture for this kind of situation. "We use low furniture, such as sofas with small legs and low backs, unless it's tall storage, such as a bookcase, in which case it should go right to the ceiling."

Shop low-rise furniture

4. Window treatments don't have to take a backstage role

In rooms with a lower profile, you should think twice before introducing too many contrasting details or filling them with excess 'stuff' – they can quickly look and feel overwhelming to spend time in. However, when it comes to window treatments, there is no need to skip them, or to choose designs that simply blend into the background.

According to Holly Scott, the way in which you choose to dress your windows can actually have a significant impact on the way a ceiling appears. "I like curtains to start high and fall all the way to the floor. That long vertical line naturally leads the eye upwards and can make the proportions of the room feel more generous.

"I’d definitely avoid positioning a curtain pole just above the window simply because that’s where the window finishes," adds Holly. "Look at the whole wall and decide where the treatment will give you the best proportions. I'd do the same with Roman blinds, with a low ceiling have them hang as high up as you can to make the room feel taller."

5. Pattern and dark colours needn't be totally discounted

Just as when dealing with the design of compact spaces, such as downstairs toilets, or those lacking natural light, it can feel wrong to bring dark colours or patterns into a room with low ceiling. However, rather than trying to ignore the proportions you are dealing with, sometimes it's a better idea to just accept and embrace them.

"I don’t think the aim should always be to trick the eye into believing a low-ceilinged room is taller than it is. Sometimes embracing those proportions and creating something warm, cosy and full of character gives you a far more successful room. It’s about making the architecture feel intentional rather than apologising for it," says Holly Scott.

Richard Skeoch, company director at Hyperion Tiles, agrees that leaning into the proportions of a low-ceilinged room, particularly when it comes to your kitchen and bathroom tiling ideas, can be a good thing.

"You don't have to stick to pale colours or avoid pattern. A deeper or richer tile colour can look really effective in a room with a low ceiling, especially if you carry the same or a similar shade onto another surface. This helps the different elements of the room feel connected rather than making the walls and ceiling feel more visually separate."

Richard goes on to reveal some tips for anyone wondering how to approach tiling a vertically-challenged space.

"The way you lay your tiles can make a real difference to how the proportions of the room feel. In a bathroom or kitchen, laying tiles vertically can draw the eye upwards and help to give the impression of more height, particularly when the tiles extend across a good portion of the wall. In a darker room, I would also consider a gloss finish, as the reflective surface can help to bounce light around and make the space feel brighter," he advises.

"Be careful about introducing too many different tile patterns or strong horizontal lines, as these can emphasise the width of the room and make the ceiling feel lower," adds Richard. "Instead, let one tile, colour or pattern be the main feature and keep the other elements relatively simple around it."

6. Wide floorboards and parquet don't have to feel overwhelming

Just like your walls and ceilings, the floor forms an important backdrop and, as such, whatever type of flooring you choose needs to be carefully considered if you want it to work with your ceiling height in a way that benefits the space overall.

Adam Robertson, managing director at Urbane Living, suggests opting for generously proportioned floorboards in this type of situation.

"Longer, wider boards can help a room feel more spacious, particularly if the flooring continues through into adjoining areas. Lots of short boards or a particularly busy pattern can make the floor feel more broken up. That doesn’t mean parquet is off the table though – a well-proportioned parquet floor can bring character to a low-ceilinged room without making it feel too busy, particularly when paired with a natural finish and a simple scheme elsewhere."

Adam goes on to explain that the colour of the floor you choose matters too, as does taking a holistic approach to your overall design. "A lighter floor can help make the most of the available light and give the room a more open feel, while warmer mid-toned timber can make the space feel inviting and comfortable. The key is to think about how all three surfaces work together, rather than creating a strong contrast between the floor, walls and ceiling."

FAQs

What is the best way to use wall panelling in a room with low ceilings?

The popularity of wall panelling just seems to keep on rising. It's a great way to add character to both old and new properties, and a fantastic way of navigating less-than-perfect plasterwork too.

Ian Tomlinson, managing director at Chaunceys Timber Flooring, agrees that timber wall cladding is a brilliant way to turn a lower ceiling into a talking point.

"Rather than trying to disguise the proportions of the space, it can be used to make the ceiling or walls feel like a deliberate architectural feature and, on walls, vertical timber boards can help draw the eye upwards and give the impression of greater height.

"If you are cladding the ceiling itself, I would keep the rest of the room relatively simple and consider a lighter timber tone so that the overhead surface doesn’t feel too heavy," he shares.

"The direction of the boards is also worth considering, as vertical wall cladding can emphasise the height of a room, while timber on the ceiling can bring warmth and make the space feel more enveloping," adds Ian.

"It is also worth thinking about how the timber cladding relates to the flooring. The two don’t need to match exactly, but choosing complementary tones will help the finishes sit comfortably together and prevent the room from feeling as though it has too many competing elements, which can be particularly noticeable when the ceiling is low."

Certain types of spaces, like those with low ceilings, need extra consideration when it comes to their design. For example, when it comes to how to design a north-facing room, it really pays off to think about alternatives to traditional windows as well as the wall colours you use. And of course, there are also spaces where you might find yourself needing to know how to lower a ceiling, instead of understanding how to work with one.

“We’ve seen cases where a small drip under the sink has gone unnoticed for months, and by the time it’s discovered, the base unit is completely rotted out and the problem has spread to adjacent units,” says Will Frankling, co-founder of Kitchen Makeovers. “What could have been a £5 washer replacement ends up being a £1,500+ refit.”

A hairline gap in the sealant or a slow-draining sink might not feel urgent in August, but once the cold weather arrives, these seemingly minor issues can become anything but cosmetic. So, before the temperature drops, I asked the experts which kitchen maintenance jobs are worth tackling now – and what could happen if you leave them.

1. Check your sealant

The sealant around a kitchen sink and worktop often looks fine at a glance, so it's easy to assume it's doing its job. Mine certainly did, right up until I actually got down and pressed a finger into it. But according to Mark Irving, a building expert at Build & Plumb, there are a few signs worth checking for.

"Although silicone sealant is designed to be flexible, it can still become brittle as it ages and gradually loses its elasticity," he says. "Water can begin to seep through the cracks in the sealant, damaging the surface beneath." Peeling is another red flag: "Gaps left by peeling sealant allow moisture to accumulate in hard to reach areas, potentially causing mould and rot," warns Mark. Persistent black mould on sealant that won't clean off, yellowing or browning, and sealant that feels firm rather than giving slightly when pressed are all signs it needs replacing too.

"Early autumn is a good time to replace sealant as the moderate temperatures and humidity allow the sealant to cure properly before winter," Mark explains. "In summer, the hotter temperatures can make sealant dry and cure too fast, causing cracks or uneven bonds, and freezing temperatures can mean sealants fail to adhere or cure properly."

Thankfully, this is usually a job you can do yourself. "Smaller scale resealing jobs, such as siliconing a shower or kitchen sink, are usually DIY tasks that most people can complete themselves," says Mark – just make sure the old sealant is fully removed and the area stays dry while the new sealant cures.

2. Descale your taps and mixers properly

I've always just scrubbed at limescale on the kitchen tap without much thought, which, it turns out, is exactly how you ruin one.

"The rule is that the finish decides the method, not the limescale," says Ana Padilla Martinez, e-commerce manager at Plumb2u. Chrome, she says, is forgiving: a weak acid like white vinegar or a shop-bought limescale remover, left on for a few minutes then rinsed and dried, works fine.

Matt black, gunmetal and brushed brass finishes are a different story. "These are coatings over a base metal rather than solid colour, and acid combined with any abrasion takes the coating off in patches that cannot be repaired," Ana warns. On those finishes, the method is much gentler: warm soapy water and a soft cloth, with drying the tap after every use doing more to prevent limescale than any product will. If a descaler is needed, it should be a pH-neutral one made for that finish, and worth testing underneath the spout first, just in case.

There's one popular trick Ana specifically warns against. "The single most damaging tip in circulation is the vinegar-soaked bag tied over the spout overnight," she says. "On chrome it is fine. On a matt or coloured finish it will strip it." If it's water flow rather than visible limescale that's the problem, the fix is usually simpler than people assume: "the problem is usually the aerator rather than the tap. Unscrew the aerator, soak that on its own, and leave the tap body alone entirely."

3. Check under the kitchen sink

According to Michael Sammon, design director at Wödår, the cupboard under the kitchen sink is one of the most overlooked spots in the home, and I'll admit mine hadn't been properly opened and inspected in longer than I'd like to say.

"Most of us only really notice something when the tap starts misbehaving or there's suddenly water where there shouldn't be," Michael says. "But there are usually warning signs long before that."

Start your maintenance checks with the isolation valve – the small in-line valve that supplies water to your tap. “Its whole purpose is to let you shut off one fitting without draining the house,” explains Ana Padilla Martinez. But if it’s left untouched for years, it can seize up, turning a straightforward repair into a much bigger job. “You cannot replace a kitchen tap, a washer or a flexi hose without going back to the main stopcock – and in older properties, that’s frequently seized too.”

Thankfully, the fix is simple and costs nothing. Twice a year, turn each isolation valve a quarter turn and back again. If one won’t move, replace it now, while everything is still dry.

While you’re under the sink, check the flexible tap connectors too. “These braided hoses have a service life of roughly five to ten years,” says Ana. “They fail from the inside out with no warning, in a cupboard nobody looks in.” If yours are old or you can’t tell how old they are, replace them the next time the tap is being worked on.

Michael also recommends taking a few minutes to properly inspect the area. "Run the tap, empty a full sink and check around the waste, pipework and connections," he says. Look out for staining, moisture, a swollen cabinet base or a musty smell – all early warning signs of damp and mould taking hold. A slow leak can also go unnoticed for months, causing far more damage than the original problem.

4. Check your hinges, drawer runners and soft-close mechanisms

This is the one job that has nothing to do with water or damp, and everything to do with simple wear and tear – and the one I'm most guilty of ignoring, since a sticking drawer is easy to just live with.

"Older kitchens tend to have issues with hinges and drawer runners failing first – they simply wear out over time," says Will Frankling. If a drawer's started sticking, dropping slightly, or a cupboard door doesn't sit quite flush, it's worth tightening or lubricating hinges now rather than waiting for them to fail entirely once you're relying on that cupboard daily in the lead up to Christmas.

Newer kitchens have a different set of problems. "We see more issues with soft-close mechanisms in newer kitchens, which can be expensive to replace," Will adds. A soft-close hinge or drawer that's started slamming, sticking, or closing unevenly is worth flagging early, because replacing one mechanism is a much smaller job than dealing with a drawer front that's come loose from repeated hard closing.

5. Clean your extractor fan (thoroughly)

I confess, I assumed my extractor fan was doing its bit to improve kitchen ventilation without giving it too much thought, and hadn't checked the filters in months. And according to Jade Golding-Gault, appliance expert at AO.com, that's exactly the problem most of us face as the weather changes.

"As we head into winter, and start closing our windows and doors, our homes naturally become more sealed up," Jade explains. "This means cooking smells, moisture and airborne grease have fewer places to escape. Giving kitchen extractor fans and cooker hoods some attention now can help prevent lingering odours and grease build-up around the kitchen throughout the colder months."

It turns out most of us aren't cleaning them nearly often enough. "Most households should aim to clean their extractor fan filters every two to three months, although more frequent cleaning may be needed if you regularly fry foods or cook with oils," Jade says. "Over time, grease and grime accumulate in the filters, reducing airflow, making the appliance less effective."

Her method is simple: take the filters out and either run them through a hot dishwasher cycle or soak them in hot, soapy water for at least 10 minutes before scrubbing off any residue. While they dry, wipe down the hood and surrounding surfaces with a microfibre cloth.

Not sure if yours needs doing? "A quick visual inspection is often enough," says Jade. "If the filters look greasy, feel sticky or have changed colour, it's a good indication they're due a clean." Lingering cooking smells, or steam and condensation not clearing properly while you cook, are also signs that grease build-up is restricting airflow.

FAQs

Why is autumn a good time for kitchen maintenance?

Three things change in a kitchen as we head toward winter: moisture has fewer ways to escape, temperature swings put more strain on pipework and seals, and kitchen appliances that were coasting through summer suddenly get used far more intensively.

"Water ingress is the biggest threat to kitchen units, and small gaps can turn into major problems when heating is on and temperatures fluctuate," explains Will Frankling. And it's the same story with ventilation: "Condensation builds up much more in winter, and a faulty extractor fan will lead to damp and mould issues."

What other appliances need checking before winter?

Ovens deserve the same attention in autumn, and for a similar reason. "During the colder months, smoke and cooking odours have fewer opportunities to escape the home," Jade explains. "As a result, even small amounts of baked-on grease and food residue can become much more noticeable when the oven is in regular use." Autumn and winter are also when we tend to cook the most, so a neglected oven has the worst possible timing to make itself known.

Her advice is to stay ahead of it rather than wait for a deep clean to become unavoidable: "The best approach is to tackle grease and food residue before it has a chance to build up." That means taking the shelves out to soak in warm, soapy water and using a proper oven cleaner on the interior, paying particular attention to baked-on spills on the base.

"A thorough clean every few months, combined with wiping away fresh spills as soon as the oven has cooled, can help prevent unpleasant odours and stubborn build-up," she says.

If winter arrives and you're still dealing with persistent moisture in your kitchen, it's worth understanding what causes condensation and how to bring humidity levels back under control. And if any of these jobs have already led to a bit of damage, our guide on how to get rid of damp walks you through how to tackle it before it spreads.

As it turns out, that's not quite how it works. My log burner needs to undergo a few checks after months of being left unused, before it's safe to light again. It's not the most glamorous item on my autumn to-do list, but I'd rather do a little maintenance now than risk an expensive repair, or worse, a chimney fire, later in the season.

So, I spoke to stove experts to find out what needs checking before lighting my first fire of the season, and how to get my log burner ready for autumn. These are the four key steps they recommend you take.

1. Sweep the chimney

"The first thing to do is have your stove professionally serviced and swept," says Jon Butterworth, director at Arada. "Aim to organise it at the start of autumn if you haven't already had it done this year. This will result in your stove working efficiently and safely, whilst preventing the build-up of soot in the flue or chimney."

How often a chimney really needs sweeping will come down to how often you're burning wood. If the answer is 'regularly' then once a year is likely not enough. "We'd recommend scheduling a chimney sweep twice a year," adds Adam Oldfield, director at StovesAreUs. "Without regular maintenance, flue liners can corrode and chimneys can accumulate creosote and other highly flammable products of combustion, increasing the risk of a chimney fire."

2. Dusting down

The interior of your stove
It might seem counterintuitive, but a spotless firebox isn't the goal. "It can actually be more beneficial to leave some ash in place, as dry wood will burn a lot better on its cinders," explains Jon Butterworth. "That's not to say you should leave it months, though – when a large pile of ash starts to appear, just clear away the top inch or so. A small wire brush is helpful for difficult-to-reach areas, such as the roof of the firebox chamber."

For the glass door, all three experts point to the same low-cost method. "Clean the door glass by dipping a damp cloth in the wood ash and wiping it gently – there's no need for any specific glass cleaning product," says Jon.

Phil Wood agrees: "The tried-and-tested ash and water method, combined with a little elbow grease, is all you really need."

The exterior of your stove
"Give the exterior a wipe with a lint-free cloth or clean shoe brush, but avoid using water or a damp cloth," says Jon. "There's no need to clean it after every use – it's more about keeping it looking its best as a focal centrepiece year-round."

3. Home fire safety checks

Servicing the stove is only half the job. The safety equipment around it needs checking too – and it's worth thinking about fireproofing your home more broadly while you're at it.

"Checking your smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors should be part of your ongoing home maintenance," says Jon Butterworth. "It's also a good time to clean the sensors with the soft brush attachment of a vacuum cleaner."

UK government guidance recommends testing alarms monthly, but he suggests stove owners should be even more vigilant: "If you have a battery-operated alarm, change the power source once a year, or invest in a 10-year alarm, and replace older detectors once that lifespan is up."

4. Check stove components

While many reputable stove bodies will come with a lifetime guarantee, some consumables will eventually suffer wear and tear. According to the experts, each autumn it's worth checking the following components:

Door rope

Broken or split seals affect airtightness, diminishing the burn and making lighting difficult. "You should check that your stove door rope is still maintaining a tight seal by doing an easy test," says Jon Butterworth. "Perform the paper test – close the door on a strip of paper and try to pull it out. If it slides out easily, the seal isn't tight enough and the rope should be replaced before the heating season."

Liners/fire bricks

"Fire bricks can sometimes get accidentally scraped or gouged during a lifetime of use, or through over-exuberant use of fireplace tools when adjusting lit logs in the fire chamber," says Jon. "Damage may eventually cause them to crack and crumble, at which point they should be replaced, since they can no longer protect the stove body from damage under high temperatures."

Glass and glass clips

"Just as with checking the integrity of the door rope seal, any air gaps here will also result in a huge deficit in your stove's performance and should be remedied," says Jon. "Check that the glass clips are still retaining a tight grip on the door glass, and look out for cracks. If a stove has any perforations or cracks in its door glass, or other unintended air gaps, it shouldn't be used until the offending components are replaced."

Additional seasonal stove care

It's also worth checking moveable components like air sliders regularly to ensure free movement, and lubricate with a water-repelling corrosion inhibitor during long periods of non-use.

Think about how your stove is left between uses too. "Leave the air inlets open to allow air movement through the stove, or even leave the door ajar," says Jon Butterworth. "This prevents moisture and condensation forming inside the stove and chimney. Check your user guide to see whether you can remove the throat plate and store it separately in a dry place."

Getting to grips with how your log burner's air vents actually work more generally will also make a noticeable difference to how efficiently it burns once the season gets going.

Why is it important to maintain your log burning stove in autumn?

"With the arrival of autumn and temperatures inevitably starting to drop, September is the opportune time to inspect your heating system and plan for any maintenance or repairs before peak usage," explains Adam Oldfield. "With chimney fire incidents traditionally spiking between January and March, taking action in early autumn ensures your appliance runs safely and at peak efficiency when you need it most.

"Alongside sweeping, check your stove's consumable parts like stove glass, rope seals, firebricks, and baffle plates for signs of excessive wear like cracks and warping. By carrying out these checks, you can spot any potential issues before they turn into expensive problems and extend the lifespan of your stove."

Phil Wood, UK managing director at Contura, adds that the real issue for most homeowners isn't knowing what to check, but getting round to it: "One of the biggest log burner mistakes homeowners can make is lack of upkeep between seasons. A little care and regular maintenance will ensure your wood burning stove continues to work efficiently."

When to call a professional

"There are various telltale signs when your chimney needs a professional clean, including burned wood smells when the fire is not lit, poorly burning fires, excessive smoke and blackened glass," says Phil Wood. "If you experience any of these issues, book a maintenance check and sweep with a professional. Checkatrade lists reputable companies across the UK, so look for HETAS and/or Sweep Safe accreditations."

It's worth looking into what a chimney sweep typically costs before you book, as prices vary more than you'd think depending on your chimney type and location.

Tips for lighting your first fire of the season

Once everything's cleaned and swept, resist the urge to load up the stove straight away. "Start with a small fire, using fewer logs or just kindling, to gently warm the fire chamber, metal and flue," says Phil Wood. "This avoids 'shocking' the stove components and helps prevent cracking."

This matters even more if there's been a sudden cold snap, since lighting a fire in an unheated flue too aggressively can cause smoke to back up into the room rather than draw properly.

I learned the hard way that burning wet, unseasoned wood is ineffective and harmful. It burns poorly, creates excess smoke, damages your flue and blackens the glass. If your stove has never quite kicked out the heat you expected, fuel moisture content is usually the culprit.

"Use kiln dried or seasoned hardwoods with a moisture content of less than 20%," advises Phil Wood. "Look for the Woodsure 'Ready to Burn' label, which guarantees a moisture content between 12-20%."

There's now a ban on the retail sale of unseasoned wood in the UK in volumes under 2 cubic metres, so smaller pre-packed bags carrying this logo are an easy way to know what you're getting. Bring the wood into the home to dry out further before the cooler, wetter months arrive, and you'll need fewer logs for the same heat too, which is no bad thing for the wallet.

Once your stove's clean, serviced and ready to go, it's worth thinking about how to get the most out of it too. Our guide to the best stove fans explains how they circulate heat around a room and cut down on cold spots.

The thing is, however easy to live with this look might be, it can be difficult to make much of a statement when sticking to this pared-back approach – and, perhaps as something of backlash towards all this restraint, it seems that interior design trends are now veering towards something more expressive – which goes some way to explaining the rise in popularity of Panda Marble as a surface material.

If you love the idea of injecting a bolder element into your home with your surfaces, this could just be the perfect choice – but before you do, here's everything you need to know about this eye-catching material.

What is Panda Marble?

The clue is very much in the name as you might have guessed. Panda Marble is a type of marble featuring strong black and white detailing.

Oli Webb, director at Cullifords, elaborates. "Panda Marble is a bold, high-contrast natural stone known for its crisp white background, dramatic black veining and unmistakably modern graphic character. Its palette blends pure white, soft grey, deep black and occasional charcoal tones, often arranged in sweeping bands, diagonal strokes and ink-like mineral formations. Some slabs are cleaner and more white-dominant, while others have heavier black ribbons or more fractured movement, giving each piece its own identity."

Mike Whitfield, interiors expert at LUSSO, says that the eye-catching nature of this material is why it's creeping its way into not just current kitchen trends but throughout the home.

"Panda Marble is a stunning material, and is perfect for introducing showstopping focal points to your decor. It is an extremely distinctive natural material, which is rightfully gaining popularity due to its opulent appeal. The naturally occurring material is quarried from China, and is characterised by a beautiful white base, interlaced with bold grey and black veins."

Is Panda Marble in fashion right now?

In the fast-paced world of kitchen and bathroom trends, it can be hard to keep up with what is currently in vogue and, it has to be said, not all trends should necessarily be pounced on the moment they burst onto the scene.

But, Panda Marble is certainly one worth taking note of, and Grazzie Wilson, head of creative at Ca'Pietra, reveals why she thinks it's currently so popular.

"Panda marble is the antidote to all the very polite, whisper-quiet surfaces we have lived with for the past few years. Its oversized black veining has an almost ink-painted quality, so it brings movement and personality to a room before you have added anything else. What makes it feel particularly relevant now is that interiors are becoming more expressive again; we still want beautiful natural materials, but we want them to contribute something rather than simply sit in the background."

"It is very much a statement marble, and its appeal sits within the wider move towards more expressive surfaces in the home," agrees Oli Webb. "Take Cardi B’s kitchen, for example, where Panda White was used to create an enormous highly graphic kitchen island and backsplash.

"It shows how a strong black and white marble can become the defining feature of a room, particularly in larger kitchens or interiors where the surface is intended to lead the scheme," he explains.

Where can you use it?

Just like any type of marble, Panda Marble can be used for all kinds of surfaces within the home – but it works particularly well when the aim is to create something very distinctive, such as a splashback or kitchen island work surface.

Oli Webb feels that this type of marble works best within a modern interior scheme. "Panda White Marble is particularly well-suited to contemporary, minimalist and high-impact interiors, from feature walls and bathroom vanities to fireplace surrounds, luxury flooring, tabletops, bar tops and bespoke furniture. It can also be used for kitchen islands and lower-use worktops, although marble care should always be considered. As with any natural stone, homeowners should speak with their stone fabricator and fitter about suitability, installation requirements and the best application for their project."

Mike Whitfield is also keen to point out that it is better for some types of surfaces than others.

"Panda Marble works best as a statement. While it can be used for flooring, its distinctive characteristics can mean that it can become overwhelming when used excessively in a space. Instead, incorporate it in key elements, such as a freestanding bath or basin, or as a bold work surface or splashback in a kitchen," he suggests. "And do remember that marble kitchen surfaces need to be sealed on a yearly basis to prevent the porous material from becoming stained or damaged."

When is Panda Mable a bad idea?

While Panda Marble has many uses, Camilla Masi, interior designer at Otto Tiles & Design, warns that it does need to be incorporated with care in certain areas of the home – especially if you are after a low-maintenance finish.

"I wouldn’t advise using it as flooring unless it’s honed and your stone supplier can advise on its slip rating. I also wouldn’t recommend it as a work surface if you want something that is easy to maintain. Marble worktops are beautiful, but lots of people don’t realise how much upkeep they involve. Marble is a luxurious natural stone, and is very porous.

"I always advise against a dark work surface as they catch so much dust and lint that shows up especially when the sunlight hits," adds Camilla. "You don’t get that same lint accumulation on a vertical splashback so, for me, that’s where I’d use Panda Marble – as a real statement splashback, running from worktop-to-ceiling in a kitchen, or vanity-to-ceiling in a bathroom. It would also look fantastic on the walls of a shower enclosure."

Maintenance and slip-ratings aside, you also need to consider how the very prominent markings of this type of marble will work as part of your wider interior scheme. Grazzie Wilson has some tips here.

"In a bathroom, I would resist using Panda Marble on every available surface. It is far more powerful when given a clearly defined role: across one shower wall, behind a vanity, around a bath or as a bold slab-style splashback. The pattern needs enough uninterrupted space to be properly appreciated, so think carefully about where grout lines, brassware and sanitaryware will intersect with the veining. I would also avoid the obvious temptation to make everything else black and white. That can quickly feel rather hard and overly coordinated."

What finishes and materials pair well with it?

Panda Mable is a visually striking material. While this is what draws many people to it, in order for it to stand out, without overwhelming your kitchen design or whichever space you are using it within, it is important to understand the colours and finishes that it sits well alongside.

"When working with a stone like this, I’d recommend keeping the rest of the scheme quite pared back – the monochrome palette of Panda Marble can feel visually cold so, for me, the success of it within a scheme is about how you balance it and add warmth, so the room feels rich and layered rather than stark and minimalist," says Camilla Masi.

"In a kitchen, I’d pair it with rich walnut cabinetry, perhaps some creamy, off-white zellige, and aged brass hardware. I’d also have natural linen roman blinds, or a sheer café curtain, and add rattan pendant lights or wall sconces. I’d use essentially the same palette in a bathroom, and definitely add greenery."

Grazzie Wilson agrees that Panda Marble sits best alongside warm, natural materials. "It becomes much more interesting alongside warmer, quieter materials – aged brass, dark timber, softly-coloured plaster or a chalky neutral tile – this takes the graphic edge off it without diluting its impact. Let the stone be the slightly wild thing in the room. It doesn’t need every other finish trying to match its energy."

Is panda marble expensive and what are the alternatives?

The cost of a renovation or remodel can soon spiral, so any material you are considering introducing needs to included within your budget.

Panda Marble might look stunning, but it is not necessarily the best option if you are working to a very tight budget, as Alex Woods, bathroom expert at Victorian Plumbing explains.

"Panda marble sits towards the higher end of the price range due to its distinctive colouring, dramatic veining and premium finish. It can be more expensive than more common marble varieties, such as Carrara, as well as granite. For those looking to achieve a similar look at a lower price point, ceramic and porcelain tiles with panda marble-inspired styling can be a good alternative."

"It’s a premium marble, so it will generally be more expensive than something like quartz or standard ceramic or porcelain surfaces," picks up Camilla Masi. "Rarer marbles tend to cost more than more common varieties such as Carrara, with the price depending on the veining, where the stone is from (Italian marble is more expensive than Turkish or Chinese, for example), the size of the slab and the work involved."

Expect to pay from around £600/m2.

Shop Panda Marble-effect alternatives

FAQs

Does marble make a good worktop material?

While there is no denying the visual impact Panda Marble can have on a kitchen when used as a worktop material, it is important to be aware of its care and maintenance needs.

"Using Panda Marble for surfaces such as countertops and kitchen islands will instantly give any kitchen a striking feel. However, when used in these higher-impact areas, careful maintenance is required, as it can be more prone to scratching," points out Alex Woods.

"You need to understand the sealing requirements and ongoing maintenance, which may include annual resealing, depending on your supplier’s advice," adds Camilla Masi. "Even when sealed, it can still etch and stain in a high traffic area, leaving the dark parts in particular looking cloudy."

While Panda Marble is a beautiful way to make a statement, if you are after a kitchen worktop on a budget, there might be better alternatives out there – many laminate worktops have come on in leaps and bounds over the past few years, for example and may be a more cost-effective solution for you.

I admit that when it came to my kitchen design, I didn't put a huge amount of thought into how the units, surfaces, flooring and fittings we were choosing would impact how arduous the space would be to clean in the future – how I wish I had though. When it comes to the weekly once-over, there are clearly areas that, due to their design, take longer to get gleaming than they need to.

We're hoping to get our kitchen remodel and update underway at some stage next year and, with this in mind, I asked the experts how to design a space that would be super easy to clean, yet still deliver in the looks-department. Here's what they had to say.

1. Switch freestanding appliances for integrated

I have been questioning the wisdom of some of my freestanding appliances ever since painting the kitchen a couple of months ago. The job meant pulling out the fridge freezer and range cooker, revealing a pretty horrifying scene – a huge amount of grease, grime and debris that had, over time, made the spaces behind, to the side of, and beneath said appliances their home.

According to Emily Newmarch, design consultant at Kitchens by Holloways, swapping freestanding for integrated appliances could be the solution. "One of the simplest upgrades is to integrate appliances wherever possible. Fridges, freezers, dishwashers and extractors can all be hidden or built into the cabinetry, creating a cleaner view of the space and reducing the gaps where dust and dirt can gather.

"This is also where the idea of the invisible kitchen becomes useful," adds Emily. "An invisible kitchen is when the kitchen integrates into the home and feels discreet, with very little on show in terms of appliances. It can be achieved through spatial planning, cabinetry choices and clever hidden kitchen organisation and storage, allowing the room to feel calmer and easier to live with."

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2. Look at where your layout is letting you down

It isn't just the fittings and fixtures you fit within your kitchen that can help make it easier to maintain – certain kitchen layouts play a part too.

“When it comes to designing a kitchen that is easier to clean, the first thing to think about is the layout," advises Emily Newmarch. "A kitchen becomes harder to maintain when practical zones are in the wrong place, appliances are exposed, and everyday clutter has nowhere to go."

Tamsin Holland, product development manager at Paula Rosa Kitchens, explains that carefully planning a kitchen around how you will be using it is key here. "We’re seeing a real move towards kitchens that are thoughtfully zoned and designed around how people actually live day-to-day. Defined layouts, such as semi-open or broken-plan designs, are helping to create calmer, more organised environments and can help to keep your kitchen looking more organised and cleaner.

"I recommend creating a few considered zones in the kitchen – this will always feel more refined than areas with multiple appliances and utensils competing for attention," continues Tamsin. "For example, a dedicated coffee station removes the need to move appliances around and rifle through cupboards for utensils to make your daily brew."

"The 'wet zone' is also important," adds Emily Newmarch. "A kitchen sink will always attract cleaning products, dishes and items waiting to be washed, so it is worth keeping this area away from the main dining or entertaining space where possible. Integrated bins, a well-positioned dishwasher and storage for cloths, brushes and washing-up items all help keep this busy area under control."

3. Don't over-do the open shelving

My own kitchen shelving ideas feature two open sections on which sit what I hope are slightly artful displays, featuring a collection of lamps, fairy lights, foliage, storage jars and the odd antique kitchen item. I actually really like them – apart from when it comes to keeping them clean. They are dust hotspots that require everything to be taken down and cleaned individually.

Emily Newmarch suggests using open shelving selectively if you want to cut your cleaning schedule down. "Open shelving can work, but it needs to be used carefully. I would always suggest limiting it to one shelf and using it for items that are in regular rotation, such as mugs or everyday crockery. If shelves are used mainly for decorative pieces, they can quickly become another area that needs cleaning."

"Open shelving can look lovely, but if every shelf is full of cups, jars and packets, dust and grease have more places to settle" picks up Tamsin Holland. "A smaller, more considered selection of glasses or cookbooks can be much easier to move to clean, and keeps everything looking tidy. Instead of adding every mug you own, replace a few with carefully chosen homeware, such as ceramics or a vase of flowers."

4. Seek space for a pantry or back kitchen

Having an area dedicated to messy tasks or for storing the less beautiful kitchen items you own, out of sight, can really come in handy – often it means you'll only have to give this one space a good clean rather than the entire room.

"If space and budget allow, a pantry, utility room or back kitchen is one of the most effective ways to keep the main kitchen easier to clean," agrees Emily Newmarch. "These spaces can house countertop appliances, food storage, laundry, bins and sometimes even an additional sink or dishwasher. They do a lot of the work in the background, which means the main kitchen can stay clearer day to day."

Obviously, in some cases, finding this extra square meterage just isn't possible – but Emily has a suggestion for these instances. "A breakfast cupboard or appliance garage with pocket doors can make a big difference. It gives homeowners somewhere to store the toaster, coffee machine, microwave, breakfast items and smaller appliances, while still keeping everything close to hand. Once the area is closed away, the main worktops instantly feel tidier."

5. Avoid fussy details on cabinetry

While I wouldn't put my Shaker kitchen into the 'fussy' category, dirt does have a tendency to become lodged within the corners of the frame made up by the rails and stiles – without regular cleaning the unit fronts soon look rather grubby. If you want to avoid having to clean excessively, it is well-worth considering replacing kitchen unit doors with something that keeps intricate details to a minimum.

Additionally, as Tamsin Holland explains, the finish of your unit doors needs consideration too when looking at the most efficient cleaning techniques. "Different finishes benefit from slightly different care, but one thing remains the same: gentle cleaning is always best.

"For laminate, melamine, glass, lacquer and foil-wrapped doors, everyday cleaning is simple," continues Tamsin. "Wipe surfaces with a soft cloth and warm soapy water, then dry with a clean microfibre cloth. Avoid abrasive cleaning products, scourers or anything that could scratch the finish. Treat wood and veneer finishes in the same way, using a soft cloth and warm soapy water."

6. Choose flush or undermounted hobs and sinks

Anything that reduces areas in which dirt and grease can become lodged is a bonus if cutting down on the need for frequent cleaning is your aim.

When it comes to your kitchen sink ideas, opting for an undermounted design is a great start, as Michael Sammon, managing director at Wödår, explains. "If you want to spend less time cleaning your kitchen, start with the sink area rather than the cupboards. It is where water, food waste, washing-up and food preparation all meet, yet it is often designed with lots of separate elements that you then have to clean around.

“One very simple upgrade is an undermount sink," continues Michael. "Because the worktop runs cleanly to the edge of the bowl, you can wipe water and crumbs straight into the sink rather than chasing them around a raised rim. It removes one of those small dirt traps that you might clean several times a day without really thinking about it."

Samantha Davies, marketing director at The Kitchen Restoration Company, has some more advice for anyone thinking of swapping their sink. "Look for rounded sink corners. Sharp, 90-degree sink corners are famous for gathering grime and are tricky to scrub out. Choosing a sink with soft, rounded inner corners means dirt and soap scum can be wiped away instantly."

Shop low-maintenance sinks

7. Cut down on worktop clutter

Having appliances and clutter all over your work surfaces is a fast way to make your kitchen look messy – plus, it can add to the time it takes you to clean as you'll need to move it all out of the way to get to the worktops.

"We’re all guilty of letting our kitchen worktops clutter, whether it’s with paperwork, appliances or utensils," picks up Tamsin Holland. "Putting away items that aren’t used every day can help make your kitchen a more relaxing environment to enjoy. Crowded worktops also collect crumbs, drink splashes and everyday mess much more quickly, so keeping only the things you actually use daily on display makes it easier to wipe down properly at the end of the day. If it doesn’t earn its place daily, it probably doesn’t need to live on the kitchen counter.”

Michael Sammon suggests looking at banishing certain kitchen appliances altogether if possible. "If a multifunction tap can replace a kettle, for example, you’ve immediately removed an appliance, cable and base from the worktop. The principle is quite simple: the fewer edges, joins and objects you introduce into the busiest part of the kitchen, the fewer things you have to wipe around. Good kitchen design can effectively remove cleaning jobs before you even start."

8. Rethink your kitchen splashback choices

Using tiles within the design of your kitchen, be that for your splashback ideas or on your floor, is the perfect way to inject some colour, interest and personality into the space – but certain tiling choices can make cleaning more laborious than others.

Lesley Taylor, interior designer and founder of Baked Tiles, suggests being careful about which tiles you choose to use in certain areas, particularly when it comes to splashbacks.

"People often think about whether a tile itself will be easy to wipe clean, but forget that the grout can be the part that creates most of the work. A splashback made up of lots of small tiles can mean hundreds of grout junctions, and behind a hob those are exactly the places where fine droplets of cooking oil and dust can settle. I wouldn't tell anyone to give up mosaics or beautiful small-format tiles – that would make kitchens terribly boring! Instead, think about where you use them.

"Behind the hob, where you know you will be wiping the surface constantly, a larger-format porcelain tile with fewer grout lines is incredibly practical," continues Lesley. "Save the more intricate layouts and tactile finishes for areas that aren't receiving the full force of cooking every evening. You can still have colour, pattern and personality; you are simply putting the most wipeable surface in the place most likely to get covered in tomato sauce."

Samantha Davies suggests going for something other than tiles if you really want to minimise maintenance. "Tiled splashbacks look lovely, but grout quickly traps grease and grime near the hob and sink. Swapping tiles for a single slab of glass, acrylic, or solid panelling creates a smooth surface that wipes clean in one quick swipe."

9. Opt for forgiving, easy-clean surfaces throughout

It sounds so simple, yet choosing easy-to-clean materials for worktops, kitchen flooring and unit doors can make life so much simpler.

Yaqub Khalid, design consultant at Ashford Kitchens & Interiors, explains that it is also worth thinking about which materials will show up dirt the most. "When it comes to finishes, it’s worth considering practical, wipe-clean surfaces and choosing kitchen colours or patterns that are less likely to show every mark between cleans. Worktops with a subtle pattern or texture can be more forgiving, while durable splashbacks can make it easier to deal with everyday cooking splashes."

"Real wood worktops take a lot of upkeep to prevent water rot, and pale quartz can easily stain from coffee or wine," adds Samantha Davies. "Darker, textured granite or non-porous composite tops effortlessly hide everyday mess and resist stubborn stains."

"The materials you use for your worktop ideas are important for maintaining an easy-to-clean kitchen," agrees Selena Quick, founder and director of of PAD. "Different materials have very different maintenance requirements, so we always encourage clients to consider how they actually use their kitchen before making a decision.

"Quartz, for example, is durable and low maintenance day-to-day though isn't fully heat or scratch resistant and needs a little more care. Composites such as Dekton and Neolith, by contrast, are excellent in terms of resistance to stains and scratches, and are designed to be low maintenance premium, luxury surfaces."

FAQs

Are handleless kitchens easier to keep clean?

If you are torn between choosing handles for kitchen cabinets and handleless doors, you may well be wondering how your decision might affect the length of your cleaning routine.

Granted handleless kitchen units can outwardly give the impression of less dirt traps but, according to Gareth Hull, design lead at Hendel & Hendel, handleless isn't always the better option, despite its fuss-free appearance.

"There is an assumption that a handleless kitchen must be easier to clean because there is less hardware on the cabinetry, but in day-to-day use the opposite can sometimes be true. If the way you open a cupboard or drawer involves putting your fingers directly onto the door front, that is where cooking oils, fingerprints and marks are going to end up too.

"A well-positioned handle gives your hand somewhere deliberate to go," explains Gareth. "Instead of repeatedly touching the painted or timber cabinet front, you are primarily touching a much smaller piece of hardware which can be wiped in seconds. In a busy kitchen, particularly around the fridge, bin, dishwasher and food-preparation area, that can make quite a difference to how quickly the cabinetry starts looking marked.

"I'd also pay attention to the projection of the handle. You want enough room to comfortably get your fingers behind it and to run a cloth around it without having to work into an impossibly tight gap," adds Gareth.

For more advice on designing your kitchen, take a look at the nine features I'm planning on including in my own kitchen renovation plans, and the practical pointers you need to consider before finalising your choices.

Not all entryways need four walls and a door at each end. Getting your hallway design right is often more about creating a sense of arrival, a beat of transition that signal to your brain "you're home". That feeling can be built into almost any layout, with the right flooring and furniture in place.

We asked interior designers how they'd fake a hallway if their front door opened straight into a room, and their answers ranged from clever furniture placement to getting the light right.

1. Create a sense of arrival, not a replica hallway

According to interior designer Abigail Ahern, when a front door opens straight into a living space, the key is to create "a sense of arrival" rather than trying to replicate traditional hallway ideas.

"Carve out an entrance with a generous rug or runner, then anchor it with a console, narrow bench or a beautiful cabinet," says Abigail. "Think vertically for storage, using hooks, pegs or wall-mounted shelving for coats and bags, and use baskets underneath for shoes."

"Colour is another brilliant zoning tool," she continues. "A deeper shade, timber or wall panelling can make the entrance feel distinct. And always add a lamp. Soft light instantly makes the space feel considered and welcoming."

Remember, you're not trying to trick anyone into thinking a hallway exists where it doesn't. You're building a small collection of design decisions that together give one corner of a room its own identity.

This setup does exactly that. The olive wall gives the corner a different mood the moment you step towards it, while the sculptural table lamps offer precisely the soft, welcoming light Abigail talks about.

2. Add a console table as a visual anchor

"Adding a console table is a clever design technique for creating the illusion of an entranceway in spaces where there isn't a dedicated hallway," says Kate Palmer, creative director at The Painted Furniture Company.

"Start by choosing a stylish console table that fits the scale and style of the room and position a decorative mirror above the table, which is great for practical reasons as well as making the area appear larger. A table lamp or wall sconces will further help to create the illusion, and you can accessorise the table with items such as a handy bowl for keys, a tray for post, or a vase of pretty flowers to add a personal touch."

A console table works because it does two jobs at once: It gives your eye a clear focal point the moment you walk in, and it gives your hands somewhere to put things down, which is really all a hallway is for.

Placed against the wall nearest the front door, it reads as a natural landing spot rather than a random piece of furniture that's wandered into the living room.

Shop console tables

3. Change the flooring to delineate the space

"Floor zoning can be used to visually create an entrance area without putting up walls or removing an open plan layout," says Alex Heslop, trend expert at Flooring Superstore. "By changing the flooring material, pattern or direction at the entryway, you can create an arrival area which separates the entrance from the living space beyond it."

It works because your feet notice a change in surface before your brain catches up, and that instinctive shift is often all it takes to mark a "before" and "after" the front door.

There's a functional case for it too; a hardwearing tile at the entrance copes far better with wet shoes and dripping umbrellas than the softer flooring in the room beyond. "If you use a hardwearing, practical tile around the doorway and transition into wood or wood-effect flooring in the living space, this not only gives the feel of a hallway zone, but it also has practical benefits in a busy home," Alex explains.

4. Lay down a runner

"Using a runner immediately inside the front door helps visually carve out a clear entrance route, effectively creating a 'hallway' without the need for walls or structural changes," says Nick Acaster MD at Rugs Direct.

"The long, narrow shape naturally draws the eye into the home and gives that first stretch of floor its own identity, helping it feel separate from the main living area."

"A runner can also introduce a deliberate change in colour, pattern or texture underfoot, which signals the transition from entrance to living space," Nick explains. "For a more defined look, choose a design that contrasts with the surrounding type of flooring, for something subtler, pick up colours already used within the room so the entrance feels distinct but still connected to the wider scheme."

Nick's one rule on sizing is worth remembering: "Make sure the size feels intentional, ideally, there should be some flooring visible around the edges rather than the runner appearing squeezed into the available space."

5. Use furniture to screen the space

"If the front door opens straight into a large room, a piece of furniture can be used as a subtle room divider to create a more defined entrance," says Joe Burton, interior expert at The Brick Tile Co. "A low, open-backed bookcase or a slim console table placed perpendicular to the wall can help frame the entrance without blocking light

The trick to getting this right is placement rather than size. A piece of furniture set at an angle to the wall, rather than flat against it, reads as a deliberate divider instead of just another item of furniture in the room.

It doesn't need to block the view through to the rest of the house, just interrupt it enough to signal that you've stepped somewhere distinct.

6. Add a soft-sided storage bench

"If your front door opens straight into a room, a storage bench is a great way to create a little 'welcome' area without needing a separate hallway," says Debbie Leigh, design manager at ILIV.

"Place it near the door to give you somewhere to sit and put on shoes, as well as a place to store everyday clutter."

"The key is to keep the arrangement open and considered, allowing a clear pathway through the room," adds Julia Bilotta, creative stylist at Sofology. "Choosing tactile upholstery and adding cushions or a small side table creates the feeling of a welcoming entrance while still making the most of the living room as a whole."

Shop storage benches

7. Light the space with intention

"When designing a false hallway, task lighting is essential, as there's nothing worse than losing your keys or struggling to tie your shoes as you can't see," says Peter Legg, lead designer at Där Lighting. "A table lamp placed on a small console or side table next to the front door is a simple and cost-effective way of introducing light and creating a distinct entrance zone."

Peter's other tip is worth flagging for anyone wanting a more finished look: "Opt for a dimmable bulb so you can seamlessly transition between functional use and a softer glow, for a relaxing ambience in your living space of an evening," he says.