Getting rid of moss on your roof is more important than you might think. Not only is this fuzzy growth unsightly, but it can also wreak havoc on your home if left unchecked – reducing energy efficiency, blocking drainage and damaging the tiles.

While some cases of moss can be treated on a DIY basis (such as removing moss from lawns), sometimes it's best to leave it to the experts – otherwise, you could do more harm than good.

To find out how to get rid of it, and when you should hand the job over to a professional, keep reading. I spoke with two roofing experts to hear their advice, and we’ve also explored what could happen if you leave it too long.

How do I get rid of moss on my roof?

If you're dealing with minor moss on newer tiles, DIY removal is possible. According to Alex Morrisey, managing director of Best Roofers, the best method in this case is to use a soft-bristle brush on the affected areas.

You can also buy biocidal sprays to kill it at the root and reduce the chances of it returning (which is also used to treat moss on driveways and patios). Once you spray the area, the moss will eventually dry out, and rainfall will wash it away.

Alex warns that if your roof is more than 15 to 20 years old and has widespread moss growth, you will need to call in a professional. They will clean your roof, apply a preventative treatment, and check for underlying problems.

You should also avoid using pressure washers and stiff brushes, which can damage your roof and create “far bigger problems than the moss itself.”

Paull Newsome, Commercial Director of Vanguard Waterproofing Systems Ltd, warns, "I’d discourage DIY roof access where possible. In UK workplace data, falls from height remain the most common cause of fatal injury, and guidance sources summarising HSE/RIDDOR data also highlight ladders as a major contributor to falls-from-height injuries."

Is it worth having moss removed from a roof?

It might be tempting to turn a blind eye, but moss on your roof can develop into serious problems if left untreated, so it’s always important to remove it.

Alex Morrisey compares moss to a sponge in the way it absorbs and holds rainwater against your tiles. This can cause them to weaken, crack, become porous or lift, leaving your home less protected from heat loss.

“When tiles absorb water repeatedly, they weaken. Once you start getting gaps, cracks, or displaced tiles, you lose the thermal integrity of the roof. Heat escapes, cold air gets in, and your boiler ends up compensating for that," he explains.

What time of year is best to remove moss from a roof?

You can remove moss from your roof at any time of the year, but Paul Caruana, founder of IPP, says that spring or summer is best. The drier weather makes removal easier, and it's also when moss grows most actively.

How to stop moss growing on your roof

To prevent moss from growing on your roof in the first place, Paull Newsome recommends the following steps:

• Trim back overhanging trees to increase sunlight and airflow
• Keep gutters/valleys clear so water doesn’t back up and keep lower areas wet
• Consider zinc or copper strips at ridge level. Rainfall washes trace metal ions down the roof which helps inhibit moss/lichen over time
• Avoid pressure washing in most cases; it can damage finishes and drive water where it shouldn’t

While the moss on your roof probably never crosses your mind, it's definitely worth keeping it in check. “Catching it early is always cheaper than dealing with the consequences later,” concludes Alex Morrisey.

For more expert advice, read about the spring maintenance tasks you should leave to professionals and roof leak repair costs.

Green roofs offer a variety of benefits, from aesthetic to environmental. Sedum and moss roofs create a living patchwork of colours, providing a soft-textured carpet that changes with the seasons. They help insulate your home, reduce rainwater runoff and support local wildlife.

However, while green roofs are often described as low-maintenance, this does not mean that they are maintenance-free. Neglect can quickly lead to bare patches, invasive weeds, blocked drains and even damage to the waterproofing beneath the roof.

Our step-by-step guide to green roof maintenance, packed with advice from industry experts, will help you keep your green roof looking great and performing at its best.

1. The first maintenance step is getting the design right

“Although green roofs generally need very little maintenance, neglect can lead to all sorts of issues," warns Dusty Gedge, international ambassador for the European Federation of Green Roof and Wall Associations. “All too often designers or customers opt for the lightest and the thinnest systems which actually require more care.”

Instead, Dusty advises homeowners to install deeper, heavier systems that can survive short droughts and support a greater variety of plants. “Sedums only flower in late May and June, while the various species of wildflowers can bloom from April through to October. Extensive garden-like roofs allow for a more biodiverse mix of native wildflowers and sedums,” he says.

Grass should also be avoided on extensive green roofs as it is heavily reliant on water. “Designers often want that natural ‘cultural’ aesthetic of a meadow, but this is best avoided because irrigation will be an absolute necessity,” Dusty warns.

2. Keep on top of your weeding

Regular hand-pulling weeds is the safest way to protect your green roof. Invasive species should be targeted early, before they establish deep roots.

Plants such as Buddleia are a common issue. “Its root structure is pretty invasive and so we like to keep these under control, generally by hand pulling,” says Mike Cottage, sustainability director at The Urban Greening Company.

“If they get out of control, professional stem injection may be required. Any other species that may be too dominant are hand pulled.”

“When removing wind-borne weeds such as Buddleia and Fleabane take extra care to avoid damaging the waterproofing layer,” adds Gary Grant, technical director at The Green Infrastructure Consultancy.

Shop for green roof maintenance products

3. Make sure drainage is clear

Clear gutters and drains are essential to ensure water flows off the roof efficiently. Gravel firebreaks should also be cleaned regularly to prevent weed growth and fire hazards.

“If the gutters or drains fail, the roof could fail. Silt and detritus can be removed by hand,” says Chris Roddick, product manager at Bauder.

4. Use the correct feeding and watering schedules

Most extensive green roofs require minimal fertilisation. “Some firms recommend slow-release fertiliser pellets, but in my experience, these are rarely necessary. Sedums, mosses and drought-tolerant wildflowers generally thrive on what’s naturally available in the substrate,” says Chris Roddick.

Beyond feeding, water management as part of your green roof maintenance is another key factor in keeping your green roof healthy. Sedum is very drought tolerant but global warming means that they will require irrigation in dry periods.

The bigger issue is access. “An inaccessible roof is likely to fail over time,” warns Chris, and while irrigation is possible with the use of sprinklers they use a lot of water. The thickness of the growing medium also plays a crucial role in plant survival during hot summers and heavy rain.

“With hotter summers and heavier rain it is also so important to ensure that the green roof has a substrate (growing medium) of at least 80mm plus vegetation, or at least 100mm if seeded,” adds Gary Grant.

5. Deal with bare patches

However, even with appropriate feeding and watering, occasional plant losses or overcrowding can create bare patches or monocultures that need attention. Generally they should be filled.

“Pick leaf and cuttings from the adjacent areas and sprinkle over the bare area, or peel off sedum and soil from new sedum blankets and lay these onto the area,” suggests Mike Cottage.

More serious problems such as erosion, wind lift and substrate damage can occur and cause patches, but these issues are only common on houses. However if these problems do occur, Mike says that the remedy is to, “patch the bare areas and often add large 40-60mm (or bigger) pebbles to create more long term stability.”

Reflection from glass facades can also create dead zones where the vegetation burns off. The fix in this situation is once again to cover the affected area with pebbles.

Patches may also appear as a result of pest infestations and diseases, including fungal moss, rot or aphid infestations. But, experts say these these are uncommon and more likely to occur on damp roofs, or where airflow is restricted.

6. Don't be afraid to deadhead, thin and trim

“For most green roofs the vegetation is allowed to colonise and spread naturally, but roofs are hostile environments and not all plants will survive,” notes Chris Roddick. Overcrowding is uncommon and if certain species try to dominate they can be thinned or removed by hand-pulling. This may also be necessary to manage monocultures, and removing coarse grass or clover will also help to promote biodiversity.

Regular trimming and deadheading will remove dead growth, encourages new vigour, and prevents any one species from dominating. Seasonal growth should be monitored, and removal of straggly plants is advised.

“We tend to do this between October and February," says Mike Cottage. "However, it needs to be done selectively. In particular we leave anything that is flowering. Plants with hollow stems also provide winter refuge for a lot of invertebrates, so we would leave these as well,” he notes.

7. Get a regular professional inspection

Professional inspections identify issues noted throughout this guide such as blocked drains, substrate erosion, or damage to the mesh and other materials. Catching emerging problems early, protects both vegetation health and the overall longevity of the green roof.

While the vegetation itself should be checked by a qualified professional once or twice a year, maintenance of a green roof is not however required to maintain insulation or the waterproofing, notes Gary Grant. “The green roof actually protects the waterproofing from the elements and extends the life."

Considering a green roof as part of your self build or extension plans? Be inspired by this dream extension that included a green roof, hidden wine cellar and skylight nook. Or, if you are looking to create an even 'greener' home, check out the advice in our guide to eco-homes.

Blocked gutters can be the cause of untold damage in the autumn and winter with blocked leaves and debris quickly preventing them from doing their job. And as well as causing problems in your home, they can also affect your neighbour's property too.

But, could there be a relatively quick, easy and cheap DIY gutter hack that could solve your gutter cleaning problems instantly?

I was sent one which piqued my interest, not least of all because the email claimed it only cost 50p. Intrigued? I was too, which is why I asked a roofing expert if this gutter hack is all it's cracked up to be, or if it's one to steer clear of.

What is the 50p gutter hack?

According to Glen Peskett, a DIY expert at Saxton Blades we could all be missing a trick when it comes to gutter protection.

"Homeowners often wait until it’s too late," says Glen. "They see a few leaves on their roof and think nothing of it, but they don't realise the debris is slowly forming a major blockage that could lead to a disastrous leak." It can even lead to abatement notices and fines if the water damages your neighbour's home too.

According to Glen, a crucial part of this pre-autumn check is to assess your property’s exterior for small issues before they become huge problems. This is where Glen says the 50p hack can save you money as it works by stopping leaves from getting into your gutter from the off.

So what is this magical trick?

It's simply a gutter guard made using a roll of plastic mesh from a DIY store, such as this Garden Netting from Amazon, and some cable ties. Heavy duty ones like the Oksdown 100 Pack Black Plastic Cable Ties fom Amazon would be necessary in an outdoor environment.

Once you have the products, it's as simple as taking the following steps says Glen:

• Step 1: Cut the mesh to fit the length of your gutter
• Step 2: Lay the mesh over the top of the guttering
• Step 3: Use a couple of cable ties to secure the mesh in place. The leaves will sit on top of the mesh and blow away in the wind, while water can still pass through freely

Is the hack a help or a hindrance?

If this gutter hack sounds too easy and good to be true, it's probably because it is.

For a start, the maths doesn't quite work out, with the roll of plastic mesh costing £5.99 and large cable ties (necessary to fit around the width of a gutter) coming in at a similar price, there's no way this gutter hack costs 50p. Maybe 50p per metre at a push, but certainly not for all the gutters on your house.

There are also pre-existing gutter guards that can be installed onto your gutter such as these INEFA Drain Cover Leaf Guards from Amazon, which are undoubtedly more fit for purpose than this hack.

But what about the practical and safety elements of it? Do they stand up in the opinion of a roofing expert, or is it a hack that's best resigned to the same place as your gutter debris – the rubbish bin?

"I don't know how you would do it for that price," says Mike Storey, roofing expert at UKFR Roofing & Insulation, "and I don't really agree that it's the best route forward," he adds.

"While you could in theory create a gutter guard in this way, it's not an alternative to clearing your gutters once a year, as even with mesh in place, they will still fill with smaller bits and become blocked," says Mike.

"In reality, this actually makes it harder to clean them," he warns, "as you would also have to cut them off every year in order to clean your gutters correctly.

"If you have a heavy leaf area under trees, then I can understand why you might consider it," he says, "but it still won't change the need to clean them. Plus, the fact it won't stop smaller debris – which is usually what builds up, rather than leaves that normally just blow out – makes it feel like a fix that just isn't worth it," he concludes.

Gutter cleaning alternatives

So, if the gutter hack us a no-no, how best can you tackle dirt and debris in gutters?

For a start, there are some recommended gutter cleaning products which include pre-made gutter guards that can prevent some dirt and debris from entering the drainpipe.

"There are products such as gutter brushes" says Mike Storey, including ones like the FloPlast Black Gutter guard which can be fitted to most gutters to prevent leaves and debris building up, "but I personally have never been a fan," states Mike.

"But, these would still be a better idea than the 50p gutter hack in my opinion," he concurs, "as at least they can be taken out and cleaned more easily."

Ideally, you need to get to the gutter in question from a ladder and clean it out, says Mike. "But if you're not comfortable with a ladder, you might be able to use a long hose attachment, or if you have a pressure washer, an attachment for that such as the Tool Daily Pressure Washer Extension Wand from Amazon," he suggests.

"Just ensure to block off the end drain so you can remove the debris that comes from the downpipes without it then blocking the drain," he adds.

Shop gutter cleaning and guard products

Prefer to get the professionals in rather than cleaning your gutters yourself? Find out how much you can expect to pay for gutter cleaning costs, and if they've been damaged or are in need of replacement, head to our article on gutter replacement costs for more information

There are many reasons why you might be on the hunt for some flat roof porch ideas. Perhaps you want to add a fresh, modern element to the facade of your home, or maybe you are keen to incorporate a green roof into your house's design.

When it comes to porch ideas, there is such a huge range out there that there is no need to compromise, and including one of these structures will add so much to your home both in terms of character as well as when it comes to how you can use your entrance.

A flat roof porch will not only contribute to the overall kerb appeal of your home, but, designed well, will also provide shelter, additional lighting opportunities and even storage, as our collection shows.

1. Include plenty of glazing to allow natural light in

A flat roof extension can be the icing on the cake for a contemporary home, but this style of addition does have a tendency to let a little less light into the interior spaces beyond than pitched designs, which means more care needs to go into the size and positioning of glazing.

"When considering a flat roofed porch, you will want to consider this relative to the style of the house – the detailing will make the difference between something that looks like it was always there versus a clumsy addition," advises architect Tina Patel from Architect Your Home.

This striking contemporary home, designed by OB Architecture, incorporates plenty of full-height glazing at both the lower and upper storeys meaning the entrance hall is still flooded with light.

2. Incorporate the porch into the house design

Rather than viewing a porch as an afterthought, or an add-on, you should, ideally, see it as an integral element of the facade of your home and a crucial part of its kerb appeal.

If you are self building, carrying out extensive renovation work or even extending to the front of your house, you should carefully consider how you porch could become a part of the layout.

In this project, the porch has been incorporated as part of the house's frontage, with it being absorbed into the depth of the structure itself.

3. Build a balcony above a flat roof porch

As the weather gets warmer and a little more favourable in the UK, more and more homes are being designed with outdoor spaces that allow homeowners to enjoy the great outdoors – balconies included.

Including a flat roof porch into the design of your home presents the ideal opportunity for building a balcony, providing you account for the additional load in the structural calculations.

You will also need to think about the best flooring for a balcony – it should be non-slip, durable and easy to maintain.

4. Fit lighting into the underside of the porch

Just as with any kind of entrance, you need to consider your porch lighting ideas carefully, in tandem with the overall design of your home's frontage.

A flat roof porch presents the perfect opportunity to incorporate some lighting, most commonly in the form of recessed downlights, which keep the whole structure looking sleek and unfussy yet provide optimum illumination.

"The depth of the overhang on the roof of the porch should align with style of the house," advises Tina Patel. "You can really make a feature of this if you opt for something with integrated lights."

5. Bring in light with an open design

The beauty of flat roof porches is that they can allow for a little more creative licence in terms of entrance design ideas than pitched designs.

"An entrance porch should be considered as more than a simple addition to the building," says Dan Pyzer-Knapp, associate at OB Architecture. "When considered as part of a wider design of the home it can enhance the drama and wow-factor of the project through simple moves which also help ground the design into its contextual surroundings.

"An opening that frames the sky, or a colonnade that draws you into the home provide new ways of looking at spaces beyond, and greet your guests with intrigue and excitement for what is in store beyond the front door," adds Dan.

6. Add character with an oak frame porch

Oak frame porches are one of the best ways of injecting charm and character into all kinds of homes – self builds included.

While often designed with pitched roofs, there is a wide range of oak frame porch ideas to suit all kinds of properties and many are great examples of how flat roof porches are not just for modern homes.

"Flat roof porches can appear to be a quite a modern intervention, however done well they can suit period properties, such as Georgian and Edwardian," says Tina Patel. "Just be respectful to the materials used elsewhere in the architecture if adopting this type of porch for these properties."

7. Enjoy the benefits of a flat roof canopy

There are instances where simple front door canopy ideas can work better than a full blown porch.

"A canopy porch is a very lovely addition – they tend to be a shelter rather than anything more, and work equally well as shading as they do a shower screen," explains Merry Albright, creative director of Border Oak.

It is possible to buy flat roofed canopies in kit form, making them an affordable option. However, you need to ensure the design you opt for matches the style of your home perfectly if you want it to be a positive addition.

8. Match the internal cladding to the house

The last thing you want is for your porch to look like an afterthought and, for this reason, it really does pay to think about how the materials used in its design will sit alongside those that feature in your home elsewhere.

The underside of flat roofs is the perfect surface to clad in a material that mirrors those used for the walls of a house.

Along with the materials you use, do take time to consider how the design of the porch will sit alongside your existing home, particularly if your's is a period property.

"When choosing a flat roof instead of a pitched one, it’s usually because the house calls for it," explains Sergey Mashkov, construction designer at Sheds Unlimited. "Horizontal features, strong symmetry or, in some cases, just a necessity to keep things low and linear for the final appeal. A flat-roofed porch doesn’t compete for attention, but it does add to the complete style. In older homes, it can even help establish a modern touch."

9. Add a sedum roof to your porch

Green roofs not only look really attractive but they also come with a whole host of other benefits, including absorbing CO2 and replacing the ecology taken up by the building.

They don't have to be used for the entirety of the main roof either and can work brilliantly for flat roof porches, particularly given that they must be installed on roofs pitched at no more than 30°.

Of course, a green roof is just one option to consider.

"The roof can be finished in a number of ways and a lot of this will depend on cost, durability, and the style you are looking for," says Tina Patel. "A fibreglass GRP roof will give you a longer life than a felt one but will also increase costs."

10. Make drainage your priority

For any kind of flat roof to stand the test of time, drainage needs to be planned out carefully.

"The main thing to be concerned about here is drainage," confirms Dan Staupe, co-owner at Compass Exteriors. "If your porch roof is flat, how are you going to make sure the rainwater is getting properly drained? You want an appropriate slope for water run-off, lest you cause leaks and other types of water damage."

"Drainage from the roof and where the gutter will need to be positioned relative to the front door are important considerations," adds Tina Patel. "You will ideally want this to be discrete, but this will be dependent on the existing drainage runs."

FAQs

What are the advantages of a flat roof porch?

If you are still torn between a flat roof or pitched roof porch, you will no doubt be keen to understand the key benefits of a flat roof.

"A flat porch offers several advantages, such as using less materials, thus lowering porch costs," explains Constantine Anest, the owner of Ethos Roofing & Restoration. "Ease and speed of installation, as well as aesthetics and versatility are other pros."

Don't forget too that a flat roof porch gives you the chance to create a balcony above – plus they look far more modern for contemporary properties.

Struggling to choose between an enclosed or open porch? Both flat roof and pitched roof designs can be specified as either so make sure you know the difference.

There’s nothing more invigorating or exciting than planning a new extension or dreaming of the outcome of a home renovation project. Whether you're looking to create a light and bright open-plan kitchen or a relaxing, laid-back living space, you need to seriously think about how natural light is going to fill the area.

A big bank of bi-fold doors can bring natural light from the outdoors indoors, but to truly enhance a living space, there is nothing better than a well-placed Korniche roof lantern. This will ensure that all that lovely natural light can flood into a room, giving you a great sense of serenity and enjoyment. Find out more and request your brochure today.

Smart contemporary style

With the launch of the new Korniche roof lantern, you can really bring your light-filled vision to life. Designed and manufactured in the UK, the Korniche roof lantern is now slimmer than ever, letting even more light into a space.

Its new, slim and contemporary sightlines are the slimmest in its class, maximising the amount of natural light that you can expect from a roof lantern. A smart, revised design ensures a clean, contemporary aesthetic with slender external top caps complementing the internal look of the roof lantern.

Korniche raises the level further with a range of sizes, configurations, colours, finishes and even the option to choose your favourite glass. Bespoke sizes up to 6m x 4m and custom configurations ensure you can get the perfect fit for your project. A wide range of colour options, including three stock colours - Gloss White, Matt Grey, Matt Black - allow you to tailor a lantern to suit your style.

And, when the natural light fades, you can create a more subtle ambience with the help of the fully integrated dimmable LED lighting and matched diffusing lens.

Industry-leading efficiency and performance

Alongside style, Korniche adds some real substance, making its new roof lantern an even more tempting proposition for renovators. It is designed with industry-leading thermal efficiency, keeping a space warm in winter and cool in the summer. It can achieve a U-value as low as 1.0 W/m²K.

For ease of understanding, the lower the number, the better a glass unit is at resisting heat transfer, so these are impressive numbers. And as a real added bonus, its self-cleaning glass helps break down dirt, which is then washed away by the rain, meaning significantly less cleaning compared to standard glass.

Alongside style and substance, there is security. The new Korniche roof lantern comes with PAS 24 as standard, giving you peace of mind that your new addition and your home are safe and secure.

Fast, easy installation

Kornche has thought of everything; not only are you getting a beautifully built, high-performing product, but thanks to its innovative engineering and fewer components, it offers the fastest installation on the market. Delivered with a comprehensive installation manual containing easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions, it's a simple-to-build kit that can be installed in minutes and literally glazed in seconds. And for complete peace of mind, every Korniche roof lantern comes with a 10-year homeowner warranty.

What’s not to like? Visit the Korniche site to learn more about the latest roof lantern, explore different options and get details on where to buy and find local installers if you want a professional to fit for you.

To take a look first-hand at the latest Korniche roof lantern and the rest of its range, visit the Homebuilding & Renovating Show at ExCeL London on 19th–21st September. Two free tickets are available from the Homebuilding & Renovating website.

To stay up-to-date with the latest news and connect with Korniche, make sure to follow them on Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn, Pinterest, X, YouTube, and Vimeo.

If you’ve noticed a constant cooing coming from above your ceiling, there’s a good chance pigeons have taken up residence on your roof. While they might seem harmless at first, these uninvited guests can quickly become a problem – damaging roofing materials, spreading disease through their droppings, and causing a racket, especially during breeding season.

One popular DIY fix making the rounds online is using mothballs to stop pigeons on your roof – but does this trick actually work? And more importantly, is it safe? We spoke to pest control experts to find out whether mothballs are a smart solution or just another urban myth.

Using mothballs to stop pigeons on your roof – clever trick or urban myth?

"Mothballs are sometimes purported to be a way to keep pigeons off your roof, but they are neither effective nor reliable when used for repelling these birds," says Tony King, founder of The Pied Piper Pest Control Ltd.

"The naphthalene in mothballs has a very strong-whiff odour that is sure to cause some mild irritation for birds, but pigeons are highly adapted and tend to get used to it fast," Tony explains. "In addition, the smell is unpleasant to humans, and hence it is impractical as a long-term plan for controlling pigeons. At best, mothballs may deter pigeons temporarily, but they should not be relied on as a first-line solution."

Are mothballs dangerous?

“Some mothballs contain toxic chemicals that can be harmful to humans, pets and the environment,” warns John Stewart, technical training manager at Pelsis Group. “Since deterring pigeons is not the intended use of this product, it’s not recommended that mothballs are used in this way.”

Tony King agrees: “Mothballs are poisonous – particularly to pets and young children. The chemicals they contain, such as naphthalene and paradichlorobenzene, can be harmful if ingested or inhaled.”

There are also broader environmental concerns. When used outdoors, mothballs can leach into the soil or enter water sources. In many regions, using them in this way may breach hazardous materials regulations.

In short, while the smell of mothballs may deter pigeons temporarily, the risks far outweigh the benefits. It’s not a pest control shortcut worth taking.

Alternative ways to deter pigeons on your roof

Fortunately, there are several more effective and humane ways to prevent pigeons from nesting on your roof. Here's what the experts recommend:

Bird netting / mesh

"One of the most popular ways to deter pigeons is bird netting, which can be installed to physically prevent pigeons from getting onto rooftops," explains Tony King.

Bird netting prevents pigeons from landing and roosting on roof areas, balconies, and under solar panels. It’s an especially useful solution for hard-to-access or awkwardly shaped spaces, such as chimney stacks, pitched roofs, gable ends, or architectural features that offer sheltered spots for nesting.

Bird netting has a number of advantages:

• Discreet appearance: Once in place, bird netting is barely noticeable from the ground. It also allows natural light to pass through, so it won’t darken balconies or courtyards.
• Immediate impact: As soon as it’s installed, pigeons are unable to land or roost in those spaces.
• Highly adaptable: This deterrent can be tailored to suit a range of property types and layouts – from unusual rooflines to decorative features like canopies and cornices.

Bird spikes

"Another humane method is using bird spikes which are fixed along ledges or other areas where pigeons tend to roost," says Tony King. "Though these may sound a little extreme, these spikes are actually harmless."

By creating an uneven landing area, bird spikes make it uncomfortable for pigeons to roost – encouraging them to move on without causing them harm in the process.

Once installed, it’s barely noticeable from ground level and won’t block out natural light – perfect for preserving the look and feel of balconies, courtyards or roof terraces. Better still, it works straight away by stopping pigeons from landing or nesting, and can be tailored to suit all kinds of properties, including those with decorative features like canopies or ornate cornices.

Ultrasonic bird repellents

Ultrasonic bird deterrents work by emitting high-frequency sound waves that birds find unpleasant, yet are completely inaudible to the human ear. These discreet devices offer a low-maintenance way to keep pigeons at bay, operating around the clock to create a consistently unwelcoming environment.

Compact and lightweight, they’re easy to install and can be repositioned if needed to target different areas. Most models are solar-powered or use very little electricity, making them an energy-efficient option, too.

Decoy birds

Decoy predators, such as model owls or hawks, can be used to trick pigeons into thinking a threat is nearby. These visual deterrents work best when moved regularly to maintain the illusion of danger, as pigeons are surprisingly intelligent and will eventually recognise a static decoy.

FAQs

Is it illegal to remove pigeons from your roof?

While it is not illegal to deter pigeons from your roof, you must not harm them or interfere with active nests. All wild birds in the UK, including pigeons, are protected under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981. This means it’s illegal to intentionally injure, kill, or disturb nesting birds without an appropriate licence.

Why do pigeons keep coming back to my roof?

“To prevent pigeon populations using a roof to roost or nest, the first thing to do is to stop feeding them and advise neighbours to do the same, as this will encourage pest birds,” advises John Stewart from Pelsis Group.

Pigeons are highly habitual creatures – once they find a safe, sheltered place to roost or nest, they’re likely to return repeatedly unless actively deterred. Your roof may offer warmth, protection from predators, or easy access to food, particularly if nearby properties are feeding birds or leaving scraps outside.

When should you call a pest control professional?

“You should contact a professional to pigeon-proof around solar panels and prevent them nesting,” says John Stewart. “They will have the skills and expertise, access to equipment, and correct insurance to be able to do so.”

DIY methods can sometimes fall short, especially in hard-to-reach areas or when tackling established infestations. But a professional pest control provider can assess your property, recommend the most suitable deterrents, and carry out the installation safely and humanely. They'll also ensure you stay on the right side of UK wildlife laws.

How much does it cost to pigeon-proof a roof?

Prices can vary depending on the size of your roof, the type of deterrent you choose, and whether specialist access equipment is needed – but you don’t necessarily have to spend a fortune to pigeon-proof your property.

As a general rule, standard deterrents like bird spikes or netting tend to cost between £150 and £500. More complex jobs – such as proofing around solar panels or covering hard-to-reach roof areas – may cost a little more.

Dealing with pigeons in more than one place? If they’re pecking away at your lawn, discover how to stop pigeons eating grass seed, too.

Choosing the right conservatory roof type is one of the most important decisions you’ll make when building or upgrading a conservatory. It can shape everything from how much light the space gets to how warm your conservatory feels in winter and how well it connects with the rest of your home.

If you're in the process of gathering conservatory ideas, it's well worth understanding how each conservatory roof type performs in terms of insulation, appearance and practicality before you commit.

Conservatory Roof Types

In this guide, we explore the most popular conservatory roof types available today, from classic glazed options to solid tiled structures and hybrid designs. Calling on the experts, we’ll help you weigh up the pros and cons of each style, so you can choose a roof that suits your space and how you intend on using it.

Glazed Conservatory Roofs

The pros

• Bright and open feel.
• Advanced glass options improve efficiency.
• Ideal for garden views and sky-gazing.

The cons

• Can lead to heat gain/loss without the right type of glazing.
• Requires more upkeep than solid alternatives.

Glass/glazed conservatory roofs remain the most popular choice for conservatory roofs, and it's easy to see why. “A glass conservatory roof maximises the natural light, creating a much brighter and airy space that feels connected to the outdoors,” says Karen Bell, sales director at David Salisbury. “Modern glazing technology improves insulation and reduces glare, making glass a more energy-efficient option than in the past.”

Sharon Wright, sales director at DHW Joinery, recommends using thermal and energy-efficient glass, such as Planitherm. “Thermally efficient glass roofs reduce sunlight and heat gain, keeping you cool in summer and warm in winter,” she explains. “You can even upgrade to self-cleaning glass that breaks down dirt and grime – ideal for lower maintenance.”

But while glazed roofs are extremely popular, they’re not always the most practical choice. As Mervyn Montgomery, managing director of Hampton Conservatories, explains: “Not every location and situation lends itself to an entirely glazed roof, despite this being one of the most distinguishing features of a conservatory. Even with modern technologies and methods to reduce excessive sunlight and inconvenient glare, some homeowners opt for a solid roof design instead.”

Tiled Conservatory Roofs

The Pros

• Excellent insulation and privacy.
• Can make the space more multi-functional.
• Low maintenance.

The cons

• Allows less natural light in.
• Typically higher conservatory costs than glass.

Tiled or ‘solid’ roofs have become increasingly popular, especially for homeowners keen to improve insulation and make their conservatory feel like an extension of the main living area,

“A solid roof helps to maintain a stable indoor temperature year-round,” explains Lisa Morton of Vale Garden Houses. “They also provide increased privacy and reduce glare – perfect for home offices or sun-facing locations.”

According to Sharon Wright, “a tiled roof is the most durable and lowest maintenance option, offering lower U-values and improved energy efficiency than standard glass roofs. However, they usually cost more and don’t deliver as much sunlight.”

Hybrid Conservatory Roofs

The Pros

• Blends light and thermal control.
• Versatile for different conservatory styles.
• Great for both new builds and conservatory roof replacements.

The cons

• Complex designs may add to installation time and costs.
• May require careful planning.

If you want to flood your space with plenty of light but you don’t want to impact your conservatory’s thermal efficiency, a hybrid conservatory roof offers the best of both worlds.

Combining solid roofing with strategically placed glazing – such as roof lanterns or skylights – these types of roof strike a good balance between conservatory roof insulation and natural light.

“These designs deliver the energy-efficiency and durability of solid roofs with some of the natural illumination of a glass roof,” explains Sharon Wright from DHW Joinery. “This makes them particularly appealing for modern conservatories that serve as multifunctional living spaces, where comfort is key but you still want to enjoy a light-filled atmosphere.”

Polycarbonate Conservatory Roofs

The Pros

• Low initial costs.
• Lightweight and easy to install.

The cons

• Poor thermal and acoustic performance.
• Less durable and often less attractive.

Though less common in new builds, polycarbonate roofs are still a familiar sight in older conservatories. Their main appeal lies in being lightweight, and relatively inexpensive and easy to install, which made them a popular choice in the past. However, their performance often falls short when it comes to insulation and noise reduction.

“These types of conservatory roofs can suffer from heat gain in summer and heat loss in winter,” explains Karen Bell from David Salisbury. “They’re generally being phased out in favour of better insulated options.” As a result, many homeowners with ageing polycarbonate roofs are now opting for a conservatory roof replacement to improve energy efficiency and create a more comfortable space.

While they might suit short-term or budget-conscious projects, polycarbonate roofs are rarely recommended for modern conservatories, especially if you're looking to design a conservatory that adds value to your home.

Flat and lantern roofs

The pros

• Contemporary and stylish.
• Ideal for glazed kitchen extensions.

The cons

• Typically more expensive to install.
• May require planning permission.

If you’re looking for something more architectural than your average glazed roof, a flat solid roof with a statement roof lantern could be just the thing. This style of roof is perfect for anyone wanting their conservatory to blur the lines between traditional add-on and full-on extension. The crisp, clean lines of a flat roof lend themselves beautifully to modern homes, while a lantern overhead draws in light and drama.

Mervyn Montgomery from Hampton Conservatories, points out that this type of structure is also a smart solve for more complicated layouts. “It can be a challenge to attach a fully octagonal conservatory to a host property,” he explains. “So this is often resolved by providing a link passageway either pitched and glazed or with a flat solid roof with glazed sides.”

FAQs

How much does a conservatory roof cost?

Prices can vary widely depending on the size of your conservatory and the type of roof you’re installing. At the lower end of the scale, a polycarbonate or basic glass conservatory roof might cost between £2,500 and £5,000. For something more substantial like a tiled or hybrid roof, you could be looking at £6,000 to £15,000 or more.

Getting a few quotes from trusted installers is always a good idea, and be sure to factor in things like lighting, ventilation, and any structural work if you are repairing an existing conservatory roof or replacing an older one.

Can I replace an old conservatory roof with a different type?

Yes, and it's one of the easiest ways to improve the comfort, insulation and style of your conservatory. Swapping out a dated polycarbonate roof for a glass, tiled or hybrid version can make a dramatic difference to your space. The most important thing to check is whether your existing conservatory structure can support the weight of a new, heavier roof. Tiled roofs especially need proper reinforcement. Most reputable companies will carry out a structural survey as part of the process.

Which roof is best for energy efficiency?

If keeping your conservatory warm in winter and cool in summer is the goal, solid tiled roofs are your best option. They offer superior insulation and help reduce heat loss and solar gain. That said, high-spec glazed roofs can still perform well, especially if you choose thermally efficient glazing like low-e or solar control glass – both of which allow you to enjoy all the benefits of natural light without sacrificing any of the comfort.

Avoid polycarbonate if energy efficiency is a priority for you. These types of roof may be lightweight but they are not known for their thermal performance.

Do I need planning permission to change my conservatory roof?

In most cases, no – replacing your conservatory roof like-for-like or upgrading to a different material doesn’t usually require planning permission. But there are a few exceptions. If your home is listed, in a conservation area, or the roof design will significantly alter the exterior appearance or height, it’s worth checking with your local planning authority.

You should also consider Conservatory Building Regulations, especially if you’re installing a solid roof. This kind of upgrade might count as turning your conservatory into a permanent extension, so it needs to meet certain insulation and structural standards. A good installer will guide you through what’s required. Read our guide to when a conservatory becomes an extension for more details on this.

Meet Our Conservatory Experts

If you're not quite ready to commit to a full upgrade, conservatory roof repairs can be a smart, budget-friendly alternative, especially for minor structural issues or cosmetic fixes.

Pitched roof extension ideas might be more expensive than your standard flat roof but the addition of one can change the entire look and feel of your build.

While we usually associate a pitched roof with the drama of a traditional build, it's possible to invoke a contemporary feel to the exterior of the extension too by adjusting materials and being playful with the angles. Meanwhile, inside the extension, a pitched roof "can create interesting spaces with taller head height compared to a flat roof," explains Stuart Archer of Archer + Braun Architecture.

The benefits of a pitched roof don't stop at the visual impact of your extension either.

"Pitched roofs are easier to waterproof and less likely to leak as water runs off them than flat roofs," Stuart Archer explains, adding: "Pitched roof extensions are common when building up to the site boundary of another plot, as there are often height restrictions on the boundary, particularly in cities like London."

Pitched roof extension ideas

A good starting point when it comes to deciding the roof design of your extension is looking at your existing home and deciding which design will complement it and whether it is within your budget.

The technicalities of adding a pitched roof are worth considering too as they can require more planning due to being heavier and made up of more components – timber trusses, tiling, flashing etc. This means putting plenty of consideration into the logistics of bringing your pitched roof to site and adding it to your extension.

Here we take a look at 12 pitched roof extensions ideas for some inspiration.

1. Maximise the height of your ceilings

A great advantage of pitched roofs is that the ridge edge can be higher than a flat roof under permitted development and planning.

"This provides an amazing aesthetic advantage, creating tall spaces and a sense of grandeur often not achievable within the host building,” explains Pereen D'Avoine, architect at Russian for Fish.

"We often use standing seam zinc cladding on our pitched roofs. A standing seam cladding can also be used vertically and can be a good way to visually connect a ground floor extension with a dormer loft conversion. We took this approach on the above kitchen extension project," says Pereen.

2. Create grandeur in a modest space

The owners of this small kitchen extension wanted to maximise space and light in their new kitchen extension, turning it into a bright and airy hub. The footprint of the house itself is quite narrow, which can often be true of terraced homes. So the design looks to magnify the limited space.

The homeowners extended 5.5m from the original building line and created a pitched roof, instead of a flat roof. The huge bifold doors enhance the feeling of openness that the pitched roof creates.

In the summer months, the family can open the bifold doors right back giving full views out onto the garden.

3. Amp up the drama with a double pitch

If you're sold on the idea of a pitched roof, talk to your architect about unique ways that you could incorporate it into your design brief. In this example, by Studio Manifest they upped the drama with a striking 'saw-tooth' pitched roof.

It was a unique approach to a classic wrap-around extension. The rear aspect design was chosen to follow the shape of the existing pitched roof.

“We initially sketched this as an idea to reduce the amount of demolition and think it adds a different dimension from what would otherwise have been a typical square box extension,” says the owner.

4. Extend out to the side with a pitched add-on

As well as the visual plus points there are practical aspects which might give pitched roofs the edge for this type of house extension. Utilising the often cumbersome outdoor space to the side of a house with a side return extension can add an excellent amount of usable space to your interior.

Pitched roofs can be a more practical solution as they are more effective in dealing with water runoff.

5. Flood your home with light with roof glazing

One of the best ways to incorporate glazing into the design of a pitched roof extension is with a glazed roof.

"This dramatically increases the amount of natural light in the space and is particularly effective if added directly above the kitchen, home office or entertaining areas, which require more visibility," says Pereen D'Avoine.

"Sometimes when we suggest ceiling glazing and roof lights there are concerns around costs, but there are amazing off-the-shelf systems that can be used and dressed to give the illusion of a more bespoke application," finishes Pereen.

6. Add a second level to make it look seamless

"For this new extension, it is a steel frame clad in stone up to the eaves level. In order to utilise the volume of the roof, we used ‘flitch’ rafters; steel plates sandwiched between 2 sections of timber," explains architect Scott Donald.

"Without the use of the pitched roof volume, we wouldn’t have been able to get two floors in the extension, so the construction was vital to the success of the space."

"In the above example 'Hocker Farm', we slipped large sections of structural glass above the structure, allowing the rhythm of the rafters to repeat through the whole space."

7. Mix and match flat and pitched roofs

"As you see above, we looked to extend this typical Surrey vernacular house with a mix of flat and pitched roof styles," says architect Adam Knibb.

"On the ground floor, we used a flat roof design to allow a more visual contrast to the existing house. The flat roof brought many benefits such as retaining views out from the first floor, giving an area to provide sedum / grass roof to encourage ecological wildlife. We could also maximise internal spaces with form.

"At the first floor, we extruded a pitched roof style. The pitched roof at this level allowed us to work with the planning visual requirements - we could demonstrate it is subservient to the main house. Internally we took advantage of the pitch by vaulting the spaces which maximised the feeling of space and light."

8. Get your proportions right with perfect angles

"When designing a pitched roof it is important to consider the angle of the pitch — if you use the same angle as the existing building it will help the extension to feel like it marries in," says Lydia Robinson creative director at Design Storey.

"The ratio of the roof to the wall is another important design factor to keep in mind. In areas such as the Cotswolds, low walls are often paired with steeply pitched roofs, making the latter very dominant. This characteristic of the local architecture is often overlooked in the proportions of extensions."

9. Choose a low pitch for your extension

If you're wanting a pitched roof, but don't want to disturb the views from the first-floor rooms, a low pitch is a good small house extension idea.

The angle of this living room's ceiling provides the illusion of a grand vaulted ceiling extension, but in reality, the slope doesn't register as dramatic when viewed from the exterior.

10. Celebrate a pitched roof extension with a vaulted ceiling

When adding floor space to their bungalow, the owners of this house chose to add an oak frame extension with a dramatic vaulted ceiling.

The design of the double-storey extension mimics the similar pitch of the original dormer bungalow and provides a characterful mezzanine master bedroom space.

A pitched roof will also make the overall height of a 2-storey extension taller than a flat roof extension. "But compared against a 2-storey flat roof extension, the eaves height will be lower and will likely tie through with an exiting eaves level. So, subject to planning approval, a 2-storey pitched roof extension is very common," says Scott Donald.

11. Create a butterfly effect and enhance natural light

"One key aspect of Biophilic design is a connection to nature's systems and in particular to natural light," explains Yaniv Peer of Iguana Architects, who designed this semi-detached house extension pictured above.

"Given that the property was north facing we carried out a daylight modelling exercise and the final 3D model that let the most amount of light was the butterfly roof design structure. It allows light during morning family breakfast and the evening dinners."

12. Use glass for a conservatory-style pitched extension

Debating between an extension or conservatory? A pitched roof glass extension has given this house the best of both worlds.

Pitched garden rooms are a popular way of connecting with the garden, but this elegant kitchen extension really shows how you can make a functional space that can be used come rain or shine.

A pitched roof can add light and space in different areas of your extension. If it's a kitchen extension you're planning you'll want to maximise how you use this space by avoiding our common kitchen design mistakes.

The roof of your house forms not only a crucial part of its overall structure, as well as the way the house looks, but it also accounts for a large portion of the overall build costs you can expect.

New roof costs will obviously vary hugely depending on the size of your house, the type of roof covering you opt for and the complexity of the shape of roof you choose. Another driving factor in how much your new roof is likely to cost you is the type of trusses you select.

Here, we explain what different types of timber roof trusses are likely to cost and take a look at the differences between the various options.

What is a roof truss?

Before taking a closer look at the cost of timber roof trusses, it is useful to familiarise yourself with exactly what roof trusses are and the role they play in all types of roof as well as the overall structure of a house. 

"A roof truss is a prefabricated structure designed to support a roof on a building," explains Turrou Landesmann, trading manager at Roofing Superstore. "They come in two main types: flat and pitched.

"More than likely you’ll see them in a triangular shape, but other shapes do exist," continues Turrou. "They’re also manufactured off-site and usually lifted into place before securing. ‘Truss’ refers to the triangular construction of the structure. The structure will often include these triangle shapes in various configurations. Allowing them to fit the pitch, size or design of a roof.

"Many different elements go into the making of a roof truss. Each element has a specific name. The exterior frame members are ‘chords’ while the triangle structures are ‘webs’", further explains Turrou.

What types of roof truss are available?

There are several different types of timber roof truss, each of which will be suited to different shapes of roof as well as how you eventually want to use your attic space, for example to carry out a loft conversion. 

The most common truss types are:

• Fink truss: This is an incredibly common type of roof truss, with with a ‘W’ shape between the chords — incidentally, it is also the cheapest.  Fink trusses are lightweight, require only small timber sections and can, the majority of the time, be installed in just one day. On the downside, if you plan on using your loft as anything other than storage, this will not be a great option. 
• Attic truss: Attic trusses are a popular option with those who want to use their loft as a useable extra space. "As its name suggests, the attic truss gives you an empty attic space within the simplicity of a trussed roof design," explains leading self build expert David Snell. This type of truss uses a design that leaves a good usable area. They usually incorporate a raised tie - which is why they are also sometimes call 'raised tie trusses.'
• King post truss: "A king post truss is typically used for short spans," explains managing director of Roofing Megastore Gian-Carlo Grossi. "They are often used in extensions, garages, porches and outbuildings. Many old buildings boast open, visible king post trusses."
• Cut roof: Cut roofs were the norm before the 1960s when trussed roofing appeared. Unlike trusses, cut roofs are constructed on site using sawn lumber. 

How much do timber roof trusses cost?

Roof truss costs will vary depending on a number of factors, including:

• Complexity of roof structure
• Type of roof truss
• Size of roof (the bigger the roof, the more trusses will be required)

"A roof simply cannot be built without the appropriate timber frame. This includes rafters, trusses, purlins and more," explains Gian-Carlo Grossi. "Most roof frames are built almost entirely from timber, which makes it quite easy to source everything you need from one place. Roof frames can vary in cost, but a basic frame, including labour costs, will amount to around £1,500 - £2,000."

Let's take a look a truss types and their costs in a little more detail.

Fink roof truss costs

Fink trusses are the cheapest type of timber truss. According to Roofing Megastore, the average cost for a single fink truss (with a span of around 8m with a 30° pitch, including binding, bracing and truss clips) would be £56.

Attic roof truss cost

Attic trusses are considerably more expensive than fink. This is because they are bigger and heavier and often require the help of a crane or similar to get them up onto the roof. However for some roofs they will be a necessity.

On average, you can expect an average cost for each attic truss, with a span of around 8m, a 45° pitch (required in order to give sufficient headroom), and the supply of binding, bracing and truss clips, to come in at £163.

Traditional cut roof costs

It is a little harder to give exact, or even average, costs for cut roofs. This is because they are made from sawn lumber, the quantity of which will have been specified by a structural engineer in many cases. Costs for this type of roof construction are also pushed up by the extra labour involved. 

How to reduce timber roof truss costs

If you are keen to keep your self build budget on track then you will probably be looking for ways to reduce the cost of your new roof. 

Thankfully, there are a few ways you can cut the cost of your timber roof trusses. 

While you can't obviously order smaller than necessary trusses, there are steps you can take to reduce the labour costs involved in their installation. 

"With light trusses, getting them up on to the wall plate yourself can save at least half a day’s labour," advises David Snell. 

While a new roof is made up of many different elements, it is the trusses that make up a large part of the overall costs. One thing we haven't mentioned here is flat roofs. 

Unlike pitched roofs, these are constructed using a combination of battens and roof joists, as opposed to trusses. Flat roofs are not actually totally flat — they need a slope (known as a fall) in order to shed rainwater and this should be more than 1:80, preferably about 1:40.

The most common way of constructing one is to use battens cut at an angle (known as ‘firring strips'. These are placed on top of the joists.

If you are looking for roof leak repair costs you can find this in our separate guide too.

A housing developer that built a roof around a lamppost has been ordered to remove it by council planning bosses.

The unusual situation occurred at a newbuild property in Ashton-under-Lyne, Greater Manchester, leaving nearby residents confused and bemused.

The light pokes through the eaves of the roof, but the developers claim it was always a temporary measure.

Why was the lamppost built through the roof?

The developers, Dave Green and Sons, says the lamppost was built through the eve as a quick fix so work could continue.

In a statement, developer Dave Green and Sons said: “I myself are a reputable builder in the name Dave Green & Sons Builders.

“The lamppost is being repositioned by the council and once it has been repositioned the soffits and fascias will be finished off.

“It was always getting moved and got sealed in the roof space to not hold the job up.”

What did council bosses say?

Drawings for the application granted in February 2020 show the property was meant to be next to the lamppost, rather than through it.

A spokesman for Tameside Council said: “We have spoken to the developer and they have agreed to remove the lamppost and replace it nearer a neighbouring boundary wall.”

It will now be moved to another boundary wall close to the property.

Whether renovating a dilapidated house or starting from new, 'how much does a new roof cost?' will be one of your key considerations. After all, regardless of the type of roof you choose, a robust roof is essential as it keeps you safe, warm and dry. There may be serious implications if it starts to fail, including ingress of water, decaying wood, insulation failure, and even structural problems.

But, budget is not the only consideration when choosing a roof covering. In terms of both appearance and performance, cheaper materials can turn out to be a false economy and can impact the overall look of your home.

To help you handle one of the largest expenses in any building project, expert quantity surveyor, Tim Phillips, breaks down the various factors that influence 'how much does a new roof cost', and provides an overview of the different costs you can expect to pay depending on your choice of roof.

Factors influencing cost

The cost of re-roofing and/or adding a new roof in the UK has actually increased in recent years due to several factors:

• An increase in material costs: The cost of roofing materials – such as tiles, slates and insulation – has increased significantly over recent years due to a combination of factors that includes increased demand and limited supply, as well as fluctuations in the cost of the raw materials and manufacture.
• An increase in labour costs: The cost of labour has also increased – the construction industry is facing a shortage of skilled workers, which has led to increased wages for those with the necessary skills and experience.
• Increased regulations: The roofing industry is heavily regulated in the UK, and compliance with regulations can add to the cost of roofing projects. In addition, some roofing materials may not be compliant with new regulations, which can lead to additional costs for alternative materials.
• Complex roof designs: The complexity of roof designs has also increased, with more homeowners opting for unique and intricate styles. These designs require more time and labour to install, which can add to the cost of the project.

And, although with rising costs it can be tempting to opt for a different roof covering idea to try and reduce your spend, this can sometimes be false economy. Although a felt flat roof might initially be less expensive than an EPDM membrane system for example, its shorter lifespan might require a complete replacement much sooner. Similarly, a high-quality Welsh or Spanish slate can remain flawless for a century, whereas imported Chinese slate may lose colour after just a few years.

Ultimately, whatever roof you choose, the main factors that influence how much a new roof costs are:

• VAT on renovation projects when re-roofing It's crucial to remember that the VAT regulations for renovation projects can be complicated, and the project's specifications may affect the VAT rate. To ascertain the applicable VAT rate for a particular re-roofing project, it is therefore best to speak with a certified professional. However, Andrew Jones (the VATman), advises that if the project is new construction, the VAT can be refunded under the VAT431 scheme.
• Variety of different roof types Talk to your builder or roofer if your main roof is pitched and a portion of it is flat, and the covering materials are a combination, such as EPDM and slate/concrete tile. Weathering and the potential for expansion joints are necessary where the flat EPDM roof is adjacent to a pitched slate roof or concrete tile roof. Make sure this detail is covered in the quotation and executed correctly on your roof because the materials tend to shift differently over time.
• Complex roof construction: There are many different types of roofs, including curved, mansard, flat, hip, gable, and even jerkinhead. The cost of a construction increases with its complexity, whether it is through intricate geometry or a variety of materials. For instance, a complex roof with dormers, rooflights and possibly even solar panels will raise the cost of materials and the number of labour days needed, which will raise the quote from your roofer. Installing a wide range of materials may involve several specialised trades, increasing labour costs.
• Location Given labour rates alone, location will inevitably affect cost, which are greater in London and the neighbouring areas. However, given the present climate and rising fuel costs, it is much more pertinent. Costs may be greater for homeowners located in remote locations depending on travel distance rather than postcode. Make every effort to employ roofers as close to your home as you can. Also, not only will it cost more to acquire planning permission if your property is listed or located in a protected region (National Park or National Landscape), but the options that are allowed are probably more costly and need skilled application, i.e., Welsh slate.
• Specialist skill/labour The cost of labour will increase if the roofing material you have chosen, i.e., zinc, thatch, sedum, or even photovoltaic, requires specialised skills to be installed. The cost is further increased by the high cost and difficulty in finding skilled thatchers. Depending on where you live in the UK, thatched roof prices can range greatly, from £1,500 to more than £3,000 per thatcher's square (9.3m2). The cost will go up if your project calls for specialised work because their knowledge and experience are more in-depth and therefore command a higher price.
• Access The availability of specialised scaffolding and permissions for scaffolding on streets are a cost to factor in. For most roofing projects, scaffolding will be needed around your house, even if it’s for a small flat roof extension. Examine your roof quotation to determine whether scaffolding costs are covered. The cost of hiring scaffolding, including permits and licenses, for a typical three-bedroom semi-detached home is approximately £1,000.
• Existing elements Lead, cladding, or EPDM may need to be used to re-weather dormers, rooflights, roof lanterns, sun pipes, etc. Therefore, ask your roofer to check if this is necessary. You should anticipate that each of these items will have a separate cost on your quote for a new roof. While the scaffolding is up, it would be worthwhile to render or repoint your chimney. Additionally, new lead flashing might be required. Water leaks can occur through any opening in the roof, including Velux rooflights and solar pipes. Therefore, it is important to have them properly weatherproofed, as this can ultimately be expensive if not maintained.

Quick comparison guide

Although we'll break down the different types of roofs and their associated costs in the next section, as a brief overview, you should budget the following for new roof costs:

How much does a pitched roof cost?

A new pitched roof may start at about £6,500 for a small terraced house, but a large detached home with a complicated roof design could cost well over £22,000. The key is complexity. For example a dual pitched roof will be more expensive than a simple, single pitch; a mansard is more expensive than a hipped roof, which is less expensive than a basic gable roof. Valleys, rooflights and dormers also increase the amount of work and material detailing.

Location also matters – labour rates are higher in London and the South East, while costs for transportation in remote places may result in premiums.

Including labour, scaffolding and insulation, a standard three-bedroom semi with a 65m2 roof and plain concrete tiles may cost between £10,000 and £15,000. The cost of a Welsh slate roof for the same property might reach £18,000, which would represent increased labour and material costs.

Flat roof costs

Although flat roofs are often more affordable than pitched roofs, the cost varies greatly based on the type of covering used. A large 40m2 roof on an extension may cost more than £6,500, whereas a small 15m2 flat roof could set you back £1,800.

When compared to traditional felt, modern membranes like EPDM or GRP are becoming more and more popular due to their endurance. Although lead is still the best material for period properties, many budgets cannot afford it due to its high cost and specialised labour requirements.

Costs for specialist or alternative roof types

Alternatives to conventional pitched or flat roofing are being considered by homeowners more and more. Examples include:

• Zinc roofing Budget between £130 and £160m2. Zinc is very well-liked for modern extensions since it is sleek, stylish, and long-lasting. To avoid problems like oil canning, it needs to be installed by professionals and detailed properly
• Sedum/green roofs Installed for approximately £150 to £200mw. Green roofs enhance thermal performance, decrease stormwater runoff and increase biodiversity. Because of the additional weight, structural calculations are necessary
• PV slates and solar roof tiles £250 to £350m2 installed. Integrated solar roofing, like Tesla's Solar Roof or Marley Solartile, combines electricity generation and roof covering, although it costs a lot more than traditional roofing with PV panels that are bolted on

Roof truss costs expained

There are many different ways roof structures can be built – some simpler to construct and cheaper to build than others. The structure is a good place to start when looking at costs.

"Roofs are one area of housebuilding which is changing fast," says Mark Brinkley, author of the Housebuilder’s Bible and an experienced builder. "In Victorian and Edwardian times, there was really just one way to build a roof and it's still widely used. But since then we have seen the introduction of many other options."

The type of truss your roof is being constructed with will play a big part in costs, so knowing which are the most expensive and which could save you some money is important.

For more detailed information on this, check out our guide to timber roof truss costs which explains how much you can expect to pay for each different type.

Roof replacement costs

Replacing an existing roof comes with its own set of challenges, some of which can really see costs soar.

The cost of re-roofing a house can range from £6,500 to £20,000, according to its size and complexity. However, opening up an existing roof may uncover rotten timbers, perished felt (which was used predominantly in the pre-1990s, before the introduction of breathable membranes). And timber rafters and wall plates may need renewing, too. The main cost factor will depend on the existing type of roof, whether it’s pitched or flat and the material – flat roof replacement costs, for example, will be very different to pitched.

What should a roofing quote include?

The majority of roofing quotes will cover both labour and roofing materials (i.e. breather membranes and fixings).

After obtaining a quote for a new roof, confirm that it covers the price of replacing the fascia and soffit in addition to new rainwater products, which can range in price from £18m2 for uPVC to £42m2 for aluminium.

Bargeboards, soffits, and new fascia are optional. Regardless of the kind of roof you select, roof insulation is quite frequently required. Make sure this is covered in your quote because it will be a significant cost factor. For example, £25m2 should cover the material cost of a 150mm Celotex PIR Insulation slab for a flat roof.

However, the following are frequently left out (or outlined separately) so make sure you ask for them to be included with the quote:

• Scaffolding: £1,200 to £1,800 for a three-bedroom semi, more for larger homes or locations in London
• Waste management: Such as asbestos removal, skips, and permits where required

How to reduce costs

Always try to reduce the material specifications without sacrificing quality – we Quantity Surveyors call this ‘Value Engineering’. For instance, your original roof might have been made of Welsh slate, but the local planning authorities might be open to different slate finishes, i.e., natural slate from other nations, (Spain or Brazil) or Glass Reinforced Concrete (GRC) slate. Switching to Spanish slate, which costs about £65m2, could result in significant savings when you consider that Welsh slate can cost up to £170m2. It's worthwhile to discuss specs with your architect as well as from a planning perspective.

By timing your roofing works with other external projects that you are carrying out, external rendering or cladding for example, then you are reducing your scaffolding costs overall as it’s not just a one-off job.

My mantra when it comes to tendering the works or getting quotes, is always to seek a minimum of three to four like-for-like quotations from roofers who have visited the house to see the actual work required. That way you will have a good idea of the best value quotations.

You can also shorten the time that labour will be on site. With light trusses, getting them up on to the wall plate yourself can save at least half a day’s labour. Sorting out the piles of lumber into sizes and, if possible, uses such as rafters, joists, purlins, hips etc., will save at least a day and possibly more of an expensive carpenter’s time.

Getting the slates onto the roof is a long job and one that the self builder could do. But it’s not easy, although one could save around five days of labour.

One of the biggest investments in any construction project is a roof. Careful planning and specification are crucial because roofing costs are higher than they were a few years ago.

Part L regulatory changes increase the requirements for insulation, while new technologies like solar-integrated roofs provide exciting new possibilities but at a premium.

Costs can be kept under control while maintaining durability by comparing quotes, taking into account different specifications, and scheduling roofing with other projects. Your roof should always be seen as a long-term investment in comfort and value, regardless of whether you choose contemporary membranes, cutting-edge solar systems, or traditional slate.

When planning the design of your space, we typically consider where we place doorways and windows and plan the room configuration around them. But rarely do we look up at what can be added to the ceiling to introduce more daylight.

Yet installing a Korniche roof lantern can not only flood your space with natural light, the angle of this light can totally transform a room, making it feel larger and more inviting. Not only that, but if you've opted for a flat roof, a roof lantern can add that wow-factor to the exterior as well as the interior.

And coupled with large bi-folding doorways that lead out to your outdoor space, the result is one truly worth considering. 

Korniche uses aluminium for a light-weight finish

While timber frames have historically been the go-to material for windows, doors and rooflights, aluminium now has far more to offer. The material is light-weight as well as hard-wearing plus it doesn't warp like an oak-frame might. Aluminium is also highly weatherproof — ideal if your build is in an exposed location.

With Korniche's rooflight design, their choice of material also offers tighter tolerances as well as accuracy. This means Korniche's roof lanterns are easily fitted and glazed, with Korniche claiming to be the fastest roof lantern installers on the market at the moment. This of course ensures minimal disruption for homeowners.

And once installed, there is minimum fuss with minimal maintenance requirements. Korniche frames are available in a range of 150 RAL powder-coated colour options as well as a choice of matt, satin or gloss finishes too.

Korniche offers more glass and less frame

The benefits of using Korniche's aluminium frames aren't just in the durability of the material. They can also have a much-slimmer profile than is possible with alternative materials such as timber or uPVC. When it comes to bi-folding doors, Korniche's bi-folds are far more light-weight, making them easy to open and close. The frames are also strong enough to facilitate wider glass panels than can be achieved with other materials. 

What this all means is there can be more glazing and less frame, making the overall look more about natural light and the view rather than the structure of the bi-folding  doors and roof lanterns themselves. And what an advantage this can really be. When you open up Korniche bi-folding doors, you can truly see the benefit in having them installed as what would have been a solid wall, instead becomes a real showstopper, with immediate access to your patio or green space outdoors.

Bear in mind too that the most consistent source of natural light is from the south, so orientating your bi-folding doors will maximise solar gain. Meanwhile, daylight that comes from the north will be lower in light quality, although also consistent, while light from the east or west will vary much more.

Glazing options for solar control and self-cleaning

Korniche uses glazing in its roof lanterns and bi-folding doors that has fantastic thermal efficiency, with solar control to avoid overheating in the summer months while allowing for plenty of daylight to stream into your space in the winter.

Not only does Korniche's premium glazing offer solar control but it also, importantly, is self-cleaning. This is because the premium coating that is on the glass breaks down organic dirt using the sun's ultra-violet rays, reducing the ability of inorganic dirt to stick to it. Droplets of water meanwhile pick up this loosened dirt to help it drain away from the surface of the glazing.

This self-cleaning functionality can be well worth the investment for roof lanterns in particular, which would otherwise require a ladder to access and clean by hand. Not to mention the additional cost of the window cleaner.

For more information on Korniche's range of roof lanterns and bi-folding doors, as well as where to buy, visit www.korniche.co.uk You will also find inspirational videos and brochures to give an insight to what can be achieved by specifying Korniche.

Getting your roof covering ideas sorted early on in your project is hugely important — not only does your roof carry out a practical function in keeping your home safe, warm and dry, but it also forms a massive part of its final appearance.

Whichever types of roof you happen to be working with, there is a broad range of roof covering options to consider, from those that are perfect for those after a traditional-style finish to their home, to materials that ensure the roof is the focal point of the building. 

Here, we provide you with some inspiration to get you started, whether you are on a tight budget, are looking for the ideal crowning glory for your contemporary home or are keen to include green elements into your project. 

Will I be limited on my roof covering ideas? 

While there is normally no reason why any roof covering should be out of bounds, there will be certain instances where you might find a material will either be deemed unacceptable by the local planners or that it may just not be suitable for your particular roof. 

Certain types of roof tiles will not be suitable for roofs with very shallow pitches — for example plain clay tiles. 

"Roofs with a gradient of 35° or steeper are considered suitable for clay roof tiles," says Mark, author of the ever-popular Housebuilder’s Bible and an experienced builder. "That said, certain interlocking clay tiles are now available for roof pitches as shallow as 15°."

In the case of those living in a listed property or a designated area, the planners may well insist on a certain type of roof covering, leaving you with very limited options. 

1. Create traditional appeal with handmade clay

It is very hard to match the character and beauty of a handmade clay roof tile, making them a popular option with self builders and renovators alike, despite their relatively high price tag (handmade clay tiles can cost up to 50% more than machine-made clay tiles.)

“Handmade clay roof tiles have been part of the English architectural landscape for centuries and can still be seen on many of our historic buildings,” says Paul Lythgoe from Tudor Roof Tiles. “Like-for-like handmade clay plain and peg tiles are usually a requirement if you’re working on a listed property or a house within a conservation area.”

For this reason, those building in a traditional style or aiming to match a new extension to an existing period building often opt for handmade clay — unlike some manmade products, they even improve in appearance over time. 

For this stunning oak frame self build, by Border Oak, the owners chose handmade clay tiles to sit beautifully alongside the other materials used externally.  

2. Or save a few pennies with machine made clay instead

Machine-made clay roof tiles are a brilliant option for those who love the warmth and natural beauty of clay, but are not so much in love with the price tag of handmade versions — in fact in some cases, machine-made clay tiles can be half the price of handmade. 

Like handmade clay tiles, they will not fade over time and come in a range of finishes, often making it hard to tell the difference. 

For their Oakwrights home, the owners of this property choose a beautiful warm shade of tile to sit alongside the timber cladding and red brickwork. 

3. Embrace the benefits of a slate roof

Slate roofs are extremely popular — and for good reason.  Not only is slate long-lasting, but it also has a timeless appeal that suits pretty much any style of house — it even looks great when combined with other roof materials, such as clay.  

When choosing a slate roof, you will be faced with a myriad of choices and it is really important to check the quality of the slate before parting with any money. 

“Look for accreditation — quality slate will always carry one," says Ahmed El-Helw SSQ Group. "If slate hasn’t been tested to BS EN12326 standard and it doesn’t have CE marketing, it doesn’t meet UK building regulations and shouldn’t be installed.” 

This barn conversion originally featured a tin roof which was badly damaged and was replaced with an oak frame structure by Carpenter Oak, before being finished in slate. 

4. Go for a concrete look-a-like tile

There a many reasons why people choose concrete roof tiles. Not only are they one of the cheapest options out there, but they also come with other benefits. 

"Concrete roof tiles can be used on roofs with lower pitches than clay — some on pitches lower than 15˚," explains Mark Brinkley. 

They also tend to hold up better in very cold weather conditions, where clay can crack or shatter, plus they are very durable. They have also come on in leaps and bounds in recent years. While the very cheapest of clay tiles can fade in colour over time, if you choose a through-coloured product, this shouldn't be a problem. 

Marley's concrete plain tile in Old English Dark Red, shown here, is a very convincing clay replica.

5. Incorporate nature with a green roof

Not only do green roofs look beautiful but they also provide many other benefits, not only to the planet, but also to homeowners. 

"Green roofs come in all shapes and sizes — from micro set-ups on a garden shed to vast rooftop gardens for modern self build homes," says Tim Pullen, an expert in sustainable building methods and energy efficiency in residential homes.

Green roofs can absorb heat from the sun, as well as CO2 and up to 70% of the water that falls on them. In addition they can help to insulate a house and are particularly good for preventing overheating in the summer. 

Of course green roofs also look lovely and so are perfect for flat roofs that are overlooked by rooms on the upper storeys, where the owners can get a great view. 

This home was designed by Ström Architects to ensure that the house and landscape appeared as one.

6. Inject some serious style with zinc

Zinc has actually been used as a roofing material for around 200 years, despite it often being viewed as the perfect choice for those designing a contemporary home. 

Zinc roofs come in a huge rage of colours and finishes with pre-pigmented varieties allowing you to specify a zinc in a number of shades, including warm red, rust orange or rich purple, to name a few. 

This new barn-style home features both zinc cladding and roofing, chosen to give it a 'modern rustic' look that will weather beautifully over the years. 

7. Finish a flat roof with a rubber finish

When it comes to the best covering for flat roof extensions and structures, EDPM rubberised roofing is a popular choice — for many reasons. 

"Easy to install, ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) artificial rubber is delivered in cut-to-size rolls with their own flashing systems," explains chartered surveyor Ian Rock. "This can normally be installed in a single seamless layer without joins, so it should be leak-free. It is usually bonded to the substrate with adhesive and, done well, can last 30 to 50 years."

For this contemporary coastal home in Kent, designed by CWZG Archictects, EPDM was chosen rather than a sedum roof. It has been covered with white pebbles and features aluminium flashings. 

8. Ensure the roof blends in by using stone tiles

Stone roof slates are a common site in many parts of the UK, including the Cotswolds and the Yorkshire Moors. In fact, in some rural areas, planners will insist that they are used, often preferring split slates as opposed to sawn slates. 

"A stone roof can last 100 years and could even last 200 to 300 years if well cared for," says Mark Brinkley. "Whether you are renovating or building a new house with a stone roof, it is vital to get the laying spot on and maintain it properly thereafter."

If you opt for a stone slate roof, be sure to choose an experienced stone roofer to carry out the work. 

This renovated and extended Cotswold stone cottage, designed by Millar + Howard Workshop, features beautiful stone slates that work really well alongside the contemporary elements. 

9. Create an eye-catching finish with copper

Although metal roofing is actually nothing new, it has really grown in popularity in recent years. One particularly eye-catching metal for roofing is copper. 

"Copper can be purchased in a wide variety of finishes, including aged verdigris green copper and bright raw copper," advises Sean McHugh from The Metal Roof Company. "Once installed, the metal will immediately start to oxidise and lose its bright natural patina."

Copper roofs are long-lasting and durable and are usually fire, mildew and rot resistant too. Plus, they can be installed on roofs with low pitches. On the downside, they are an expensive option. 

10. Finish off a cottage-style home with a thatched roof

For many people, a thatched roof is what immediately springs to mind when thinking of the quintessential English country cottage.

"Thatched roofs today exist primarily as a restoration activity, but every year there are few thatched new builds as well," says Mark Brinkley. "Thatching is not something you would ever consider adding to a house as an afterthought — you more or less have to design the house around it. 

"Thatch roof costs are considerable and thatch roofs require fairly frequent attention over the years."

That said, a thatched roof is a thing of beauty, as can be seen in the case of this lovely stone cottage. 

11. Keep things looking local with pantiles

A pantile roof is a traditional sight in many parts of the country — particularly on the eastern coast of England and Scotland. Pantiles bring lots of character and charm to a house and also come in materials other than clay, meaning they are now also a more affordable option than they once were. 

Pantiles are large format, S-shaped tiles designed to be laid in a side lapping arrangement, with the ends of the tiles overlapping the course directly below only.

One of the main benefits of a pantile roof is how lightweight they are — in fact, they are often up to a third lighter than other types of roof tile, plus many modern pantiles can be used on roof pitches as low as 12.5˚

As part of the renovation and extension of this 100-year old granary and hay barn in North Yorkshire, traditional clay pantiles have been used. 

12. Inject some warmth with corten steel

Corten steel makes for a striking cladding material, but it can also be used as a roof covering. 

"Corten, or weathered steel cladding, is corrosion resistant while maintaining tensile strength," explains Mark Brinkley. "By adding alloying elements (copper, chromium and nickel), the rust film congeals on the surface and virtually stops all further rusting.

"While other metals used in construction are designed to resist corrosion, Corten invites rust to form on its surface," continues Mark. "The rust itself forms a film which covers the surface and forms a protective layer. You don’t need to treat it and you certainly do not paint it: it’s all about making rusty steel look attractive."

This highly striking extension, designed by Paper Igloo, was constructed in timber frame and insulated with wood fibre insulation. Corten steel has been used to clad the entire structure and was chosen to blend in with the deep red colour of the existing render. 

Opting for a flat roof extension idea not only gives you lots of scope to be adventurous with your design, but can also save you money compared to pitched roof designs, especially if you opt for a more simple roof covering.

Add to this the benefit that choosing a flat roof extension idea ensures the view from windows above the news space remains as unobstructed as possible, and it may seem to be the obvious solution when building an extension.

But, with so many options to choose from, where do you start? We've selected these flat roof extension ideas to help you decide what style of flat roof might work for you and how bold you potentially could be.

1. Create interest with different roof heights

Stacked and stepped flat roof extensions form the basis of this project from architects, Bradley Van Der Straeten.

“Externally, the project was designed to resemble flour brick blocks that are stacked and stepped around the existing property,” explains architect, George Bradley.

However, as well as letting light flood throughout the home – the new side extension for example is unassuming but in fact created space for a triple height staircase with rooflight – there’s also a natural and eco led approach to the external finishes.

“The new flat roof extensions to the rear have a natural sedum roof,” says George, “which provide natural habitats for insects, and give the homeowners beautiful views from the upper floors of the property.

“As the existing roof eaves were also home to a family of swifts, we also installed swift boxes into the upper walls of the extension to provide them with a new home.”

Inside, the roof becomes a feature in itself with large vaulted rooflights and timber joists balancing and creating light and dappled shade in perfect measure.

2. Create a corner feature with roof detail and glazing

Tasked with creating a design that would give the homeowners a more open plan kitchen, living and dining space, along with a greater connection to the outdoors, Ashworth Parke Architects opted for a flat roof extension idea, but added plenty of details along the way.

A generous ceiling height brings light into both the new space, and the deeper floor plan behind it, thanks to frameless rooflights. It's a practise often employed by the architect, explains Jeremy Ashworth, founder and director at the practise.

"We try to make the ceilings of flat roof extensions as high as possible. Often you see extensions where the focus is on creating as much space as possible and the proportions feel wrong if the ceilings are low," says Jeremey. "If you think of the first floor windows, you can extend upwards to just beneath cill level on the first floor and you won't be obscuring the view."

The exterior also has a glazed corner with frameless pocket door that opens up to make the living space feel like part of the garden. And, to protect the occupants from issues with overheating, a weathered metal brise soleil ensures they stay cool and are protected from direct sunlight.

3. Add impact with a contemporary two storey extension

Not only can flat roofs look really striking when used for an extension, they also come with a whole host of other benefits – one of them being their relatively low cost.

"Keeping the design and shape of your extension build simple – either square or rectangular shaped with a flat roof – will be less expensive than angled designs with more complicated roof structures and lots of glass," advises chartered surveyor Ian Rock.

And although this is a double storey extension idea, it's simple box like design with flat roof is a great example of how keeping the concept simple can help keep costs down.

Long grey bricks clad the exterior, simple but well sized architectural glazing brings in light, while a glass link extension is thrown into the mix as well to join old and new, and is referred to as a 'canyon of light' by architects Bradley Van Der Straeten who designed the project.

4. Combine a flat roof with corner glazing and a finned metal roof

One of the most common problems with extension ideas can be that while they of course add valuable space, they can sometimes make the inside of the existing property feel darker.

"An important thing to think about when extending to the rear is trying to get light back deeper into the buildings as what was once the back wall with windows and doors letting in daylight, is now much further from the outside," confirms Jeremy Ashworth.

The solution? A glass extension idea with striking roof detail, as demonstrated in this project from Ashworth Parke Architects and one that was achieved despite the project being situated within the curtilage of a Grade I listed manor house. Grade I is the highest listed building grade and can often come with even more restrictions when it comes to renovating and extending properties.

Once again, as with some of the other flat roof extension ideas, when there is lots of glass featured in the design, ensuring the building doesn't overheat is key. A metal brise soleil was employed to keep the house temperature balanced and remote operated, concealed, copper blinds also give additional protection from the low winter sun while adding a warm glow to the inside.

5. Raise height internally with glass rooflights

Driven by the need to create a more lofty kitchen space with better light and higher ceilings, a number of different techniques were put in practise in this flat roof extension idea from architects, Bradley Van Der Straeten.

George Bradley, explains. “A large fixed rooflight was positioned to ensure extensive height and light could enter the kitchen, but also ensure the sensitive boundary with the neighbour remained low so as to not infringe upon their space, or be out of line with council requirements.

“The joists underneath the outrigger were replaced and turned into a feature, allowing the previously low kitchen ceiling to feel open due to the extra volume achieved between the timbers. The essential structural steels were also celebrated, with just a paint coating in ‘feather flock’ light grey, while the new party wall was painted white so the texture of the bricks could be appreciated while still reflecting daylight around the space.”

6. Create contrast with different roof heights and colours

Already a sizeable property, the addition of a small infill single storey flat roof extension idea transformed the basement level of this property into a light and bright kitchen, living and dining area.

The rear of the property was opened up with full width sliding patio doors and as the area was already well shaded by established and mature trees, being able to open them was a perfect way of providing natural cross-ventilation to the open plan living space.

And, although the flat roof area wasn't expansive a large glass rooflight was employed as a means of adding extra light further into the building.

Outside, white render and paint provided a clear distinction between old and new – an approach often favoured by local authorities when you're seeking planning permission for extensions.

7. Use a range of cladding ideas to define your flat roof extension

In stark contrast to the 'pepper pot' roof design of the original property, this striking flat roof extension idea from Ashworth Parke Architects also features a range of different cladding ideas.

Charred timber and zinc were used to withstand the weather conditions of the location, while the cantilevered deck and roof creates a shady spot to sit and enjoy the views.

The brick wall ties the extension neatly back to the existing, and as with previous ideas, a planted roof means the views from the dormer windows above are cohesive with the gardens and fields beyond.

8. Use a flat roof extension to overcome a top heavy layout

It is often the case with townhouses that they can feel a little top heavy for modern day homeowners, with ground floor spaces suitable for modern kitchen diner ideas and living areas lacking – and this is where a full-width flat roof extension can be the ideal solution, keeping first floor windows clear while adding some much needed space.

The owners of this 19th century townhouse designed an extension, with Carve Architecture, that stretches the full width of the rear of the house, keeping the old exterior rear wall intact as a feature internally.

A strip of rooflights links the extension to the original wall, while a large central rooflight, high level windows and glass doors all connect the new structure with the garden and ensure it is full of natural light.

9. Create a flat roof glass link extension to join old and new

Flat roof glass extension designs are not only the perfect way to link up old and new sections of buildings, but they can also provide really useful extra living space.

The owners of this beautiful Cotswold stone cottage originally carried out some renovation work, later extending it to meet the needs of their growing family. On meeting with architects Millar + Howard Workshop, the owners decided that rather than levelling the sloping plot they would work with it.

A flat roof glazed section now connects the original building with the extension, which was built into the existing bank – it houses a chill-out area and has great views of the garden.

10. Go full width to connect house and garden

A full-width, heavily-glazed flat roof extension is a brilliant way to bring light into dark central areas of a house.

The owners of this 1930s house were keen for a larger kitchen with a good connection to the garden so architect Harvey Norman proposed opening up the back of the house with a flat roof extension featuring three rooflights to draw in plenty of light.

Due to the width of the glazing (12m) a structural engineer specified two circular steel columns to sit behind the mullions of the glazing, with a steel lintel over the sliding doors.

11. Transform a bungalow with a small glass extension

After bungalow extension ideas? This one is proof that even relatively small extension ideas can make all the difference. The owner of this 1950s bungalow needed a sociable gathering area and a way of pulling in more natural light – there was also little connection to the garden.

TAP Architects were brought on board to open up the space, designing an extension to replace the old garage. The new addition is made up of a long, glazed flat roofed 'arcade' that links the main house to the new white brick 'cottage' section.

12. Be daring with an aluminium clad extension

Frustrated by the lack of connection and flow between the various areas of this 1950s detached home, the owners turned to TAP Architects to come up with a design for an extension that would make the most of the south-facing garden and help to reconfigure the layout to include a new large central kitchen.

With an aim to minimise structural alterations to the house as much as possible, the extension has been built to roughly the same footprint that was previously occupied by a conservatory and sun room at the rear.

The extension was built using a highly insulated timber frame, with blockwork walls sitting behind the striking aluminium mesh house cladding..

13. Wrap around a corner to open a space up

Sometimes, the biggest design challenges can result in the most striking end results –and this extension is the perfect example of that.

With a fairly compact garden, the design of the extension needed to be small enough not to overtake the outdoor space while still delivering the extra internal space required by the owners, who were keen to have a new kitchen with great connection to the outdoors.

Taking the place of an old conservatory, the flat roof extension fills in the previously wasted corner of the house and is of a simple box form, fitted with large sliding patio doors in a heritage steel frame style.

14. Open up a garden flat with a glazed extension

Where a sensitive approach is required, a light touch is often the best route – and a flat roof glass extension usually fulfils the brief.

The owners of this beautiful Victorian sandstone ground and basement garden apartment were after modern extension ideas that would be deemed acceptable in the conservation area is is located.

With a brief for a light, open plan kitchen, a new utility space and a dining area, the architects, McInnes Gardner Architects, also came up with a scheme that would bring light into the core of the duplex.

The design for the kitchen extension was based on a glass link, featuring a wall of sliding glass doors, inserted into a steel frame structure.

15. Clad it in zinc for a contemporary look

A flat roof extension can be the perfect way to extend a bungalow while maximising views.

When the owners of this Cornish property purchased it, they were keen to create a contemporary home with far-reaching sea views.

The owner/architect had planned on replacing an old conservatory with a zinc 'box' fitted with a sweeping gull-wing roof, but the planners had other ideas so a flat roof design has been used instead.

This meant the roof height could be pushed upwards, allowing for an oriel window to be included above.

16. Combine aluminium sliding doors with grey cladding

A flat roof extension, designed and project managed by E Francis Architects, has provided the owners with a large new open plan kitchen, dining and family room.

The new extension runs the full width of the rear of the house and incorporates an older extension which was not working for the homeowners. The flat roof, single storey extension enjoys a raised ceiling and full height glazing meaning it now has a fantastic connection with the garden as well as being flooded with natural light — something the house was lacking previously.

The extension has been finished off with grey Equitone fibre cement cladding which perfectly complements the power coated aluminium sliding doors.

Wondering how much a flat roof extension might cost in your area? To get an ideas of what you might need to budget, check out our guide to extension costs, or, if you have lots of details about your extension already to hand, use our online extension cost calculator for a more tailored answer on how much your build might cost.

There's no denying the visual appeal of extensions with glass roofs. Creating an often seamless appearance, where indoors and outdoors blend into one, they can bring a striking dimension to your house extension ideas.

But, as with all home improvement plans, making sure you've considered all your options before you forge ahead is vitally important – which is where we can help.

We've rounded up 12 ideas that show extensions with glass roofs being put to a variety of different uses, along with some expert advice on the key factors you need to consider when bathing your space with light.

1. Create a bright and sunny dining spot

What you will use your glass extension ideas for and, crucially, when, will hugely impact the design of the glass roof and how much glass you choose to include.

For rooms such as dining rooms or living rooms, where light might needed often throughout the day, opting for a bigger glass roof may be your best option.

"Whilst flat rooflights and glazed lanterns are great for creating pockets of light, structural glass roofs (typically with thermally broken aluminium frames) are capable of achieving larger expanses of glass and therefore better at drawing in light throughout the day," says Edward Stobart, technical sales manager at IDSystems.

2. Add a side extension with glass roof for garden views

If you're weighing up between an extension or conservatory, perhaps favouring the extra light offered by conservatories, but preferring the more solid feel of an extension, choosing a design that combines the best of both is an excellent compromise.

Here, a single storey extension idea is finished off with a hipped lean-to glass roof that wraps around the central flat roof to create the perfect combination of light and space. Facing out on to the patio the extension features bifold doors that open up to provide a seamless transition between inside and out.

3. Use clever tech for an extension with glass roof that opens

"When it comes to planning an extension one of the key factors, in addition to more space, is commonly to increase the amount of natural light. To achieve this often includes large sliding patio doors or bifold doors across the rear elevation of an extension, but opting for an extension with a glass roof is an innovative approach for letting in more light," says Edward Stobart.

But, why not take this one step further and if sliding doors aren't an option, turn your roof into one that opens instead.

Flooding the space with fresh air as well as light, it's the ultimate way of bringing the outdoors in. Don't have the budget for this, then make sure you choose the best glass for controlling climate, says Edward Stobart.

"To keep the rooms below cooler during summer opting for glass with a solar-control coating. The metal oxide coating is applied to the glass and reduces the amount of heat that is transmitted through the glass and therefore reduces the possible temperature levels in the rooms below. There are a range of solar-control coatings available so the glass can be specified to meet the exact requirement of each roof and orientation."

4. Replace an old conservatory with a modern alternative

In place of an old timber-framed lean-to conservatory idea, the owners of this London home opted for a custom-made aluminium framed glass extension from IDSystems, which features frameless glass-to-glass joints between the roof and the fixed frame windows below, maximising the amount of light whilst providing a real statement of design.

But is double or triple glazing better when you are opting to let this much light enter your home?

"The ideal glass choice is double-glazed units because whilst triple glazing can offer enhanced thermal performance the added weight will reduce the size of the glazing that can be incorporated," says Edward Stobart.

"The double glazing should then be manufactured with a self-cleaning coating that helps to prevent water marks on the glass whilst also breaking down organic matter by utilising UV rays," he advises.

5. Use artificial lighting to highlight the roof

Although it can be easy to get carried away with the amount of natural light your extension with glass roof brings in, it's equally as important to get your artificial lighting design right. Rarely will an extension be used only during the day, meaning come nightfall you'll be left in the dark without the right lighting in place.

In this small kitchen extension idea, feature strip lighting is used either side of the glass roof, bathing the walls with light at night, as well as reflecting off the glass roof to bring light downwards onto the floor.

Try these Hay Neon Tube LED Lights from Nest to create a similar feature in your glass roof extension.

6. Use glass on the roof – and the floor

While an extension with a glass roof is eye-catching in itself, add even more impact to your interior with a glass floor too.

One of a variety of internal windows ideas that can add a show-stopping design feature to your home renovation or extension plans, floor glazing also serves the practical purpose of allowing natural light to filter into darker rooms below. It can be a clever feature to include in terraced houses, and a valuable addition when converting a basement.

7. Create interest with different pitches and roof shapes

The advent of structural glazing has enabled some incredible new designs for roofs and entire glass extension structures.

This is especially interesting when designing side return extensions where there might appear to be only one basic solution. A glass roof with an interesting pitch can fill the interior spaces with light while creating a beautiful exterior design feature.

This extension project allows the light to shine through into the remainder of the home, adding height and drama to the space.

8. Think about where your extension will be

Much like positioning a full glass extension, where you position an extension with a glass roof will be extremely important.

A south-facing extension with glazed roof will be drenched in sun for the majority of the day during the summer. However, while that might sound idyllic, depending on how much glazing you include, the space could be too hot during the height of summer. Unless, that is, you've designed in steps to prevent overheating at the design and build stage.

On the other hand, facing north might not seem like the perfect sun-soaked area you're dreaming of, but this diffused natural light is actually some of the most beautiful and consistent – which is why is is most often used for artist studios and museums.

Websites like SunCalc.com are extremely helpful in assessing how the sun travels over your home at different times of the year.

9. Don't forget about overheating

Anyone who has spent time in an inefficient conservatory will know that overheating is a real concern for spaces with overhead glass.

"Internal blinds can reduce the effect of the sun’s heat and different types of glass can also be used to block out the sun," advises energy efficiency expert David Hilton. "Photochromic and thermochromic glass will change colour according to either light intensity or heat intensity and stop certain frequencies of heat entering the internal space."

Structural glazing with steel supports were key to this single storey extension's design but it is the raised brick wall either side of the space that make it really interesting. This design means the sun's glare is reduced, as well as combating overlooking.

10. Take care to navigate the 25% glazing rule

"As anyone with a conservatory tacked onto the back of their house will attest, simply incorporating a lot of glazing isn't necessarily a recipe for a comfortable interior," explains chartered surveyor Ian Rock, author of the Haynes Extension Manual.

"To make it more challenging, the building regulations impose limits on the permitted extent of new windows in extensions. And unless the subject of light is fully considered at the design stage it could have unintended consequences elsewhere in your home."

"The general rule is that the area of windows, roof windows and glazed doors must not exceed a maximum of 25% of the extension’s floor area, although this can be increased by an area equivalent to the loss of any original windows or doors that will be covered over by the new extension," says Ian.

"The reason for this restriction is simply down to thermal efficiency, since even quite advanced glazing leaks significantly more heat than the equivalent area of walls which need to achieve the stipulated minimum U value target."

If glazed roof ideas for an extension are a non-negotiable for you, you might be able to demonstrate that the efficiency of your extension will surpass that of building regs.

"This can be done by compensating with better insulated walls, roofs and floors along with higher performance glazing that leaks less heat," advises Ian.

11. Partially glaze the roof to help zone your space

If your rear extension ideas will be on the larger side, create zones by introducing glazing above set areas. This is particularly helpful for open-plan kitchen, living and dining spaces which can suffer from feeling like one large expanse of space.

The glazed roof of this side extension works particularly well alongside the brick of the kitchen, while the design of the glazing bars draw the eye out towards the garden. It acts as a transitional space between the interior and garden.

Not sure if you need a full glass roof? "Whether to choose a partial or fully glazed roof will really depend on the size of the extension and your budget," suggests Edward Stobart.

"Whilst anything is possible when it comes to structural glazing, larger expanses of glass are more costly and more complex to produce and install – so finding the balance between the amount of light that is let in and how much your extension costs will be compared to a traditional flat or pitched roof, is one of the key decisions you’ll face."

12. Add a glazed link with a glass roof

When extending a listed house, planners and conservation officers might require a glass link extension between the original house and a new solid structure. This demarcates the old from the new so there is no confusion between the two.

This idea has been adapted in this home to and provides a stunning extra seating spot to sit and watch the sea.

Worried about cleaning your glass roof? Generally, this shouldn't be an issue says Edward Stobart. "The downside of glass roofs, as with any glazing, is keeping the glass clean but developments in glazing technology, like glass with self-cleaning coatings has made that easier."

Not sure where to start if you're considering building an extension with a glass roof? Start by preparing a clear brief to discuss with your architect. They should be able to navigate your desire to create something really special. These discussions should include:

• what the extension will be used for
• how big the roof will be and how much glazing you are after
• your budget (structural glazing will cost more than a simple rooflight)
• the time of day you will use the extension
• the orientation of your property

Also make sure you understand the rules regarding planning permission for extensions, and just how long an extension takes to build, so you aren't met with any surprises along the way.

There are many different extension roof types out there to consider — something that only serves to add to the decisions that need to be made when building an extension. 

The type of roof you choose to create the new addition to your home will play a huge role in defining the finished look of your project — both externally as well as internally. While some people choose to mirror the roof used in the construction of the original building, others seize the opportunity to create contrast through a completely different type of roof.

Here, we take a look at some of the best options, from the more traditional gable and hipped roofs, to those that are sure to create interest and wow, such as planted roofs and those more unusual in form.

Whether you are building a small kitchen extension or completely transforming your existing home through a sizeable addition, we have rounded up the most popular and common roof types around with the aim of expanding your design ideas. 

Extension roof types explained

There is a lot to consider when it comes to types of roof. As well as the structure and shape of the roof, you will also need to consider the roof covering that will finish off the crowning glory of your extension. In addition, you should take the opportunity to incorporate any features that could enhance your home, such as roof lanterns or skylights. 

Here, we are concentrating on the various shapes and structures of roof. Not all will be suitable for every house, and planning constraints may prevent you from selecting certain designs. However, this guide should simplify and explain the terms you are likely to be faced with when it comes to the architectural design aspect of your extension project. 

1. Don't discount a flat roof extension

Flat roofs are one of the best options for extenders, often being simple and cost-effective to construct.

Despite their name, all flat roofs actually feature a very slight slope to ensure water can run off effectively and no puddling will be experienced. 

Flat roofs are a really popular option with those building single storey extensions, with no pitch to get in the way of windows above. They also allow for all kinds of roof covering, from metal and single ply membrane, to glass — plus they look great teamed with roof lanterns. They also make ideal green roofs. 

2. Keep it simple with a gable roof

Gable roofs are seen up and down the country – the kind of roof you might expect a child to draw when asked to draw their house. 

A gable roof is a simple type of pitched roof that consists of two flat sides which slope towards one another to meet at in an upside down 'V' and the ridge.

Gable roof extensions are often chosen where a traditional pitched roof features on the existing house, as a way of mirroring the form of the original. They offer lots of scope for including plenty of insulation and can be covered with everything from classic clay tiles and slate to shingles and even zinc.

Internally, they open up all kinds of interesting design possibilities, including the chance to create dramatic vaulted ceilings and double-height spaces. 

3. Go seamless with a catslide roof

A strange name for a roof, the catslide is a design that extends lower than the main eaves height, sometimes almost down to the ground. They are commonly considered by those after side extension ideas or where lean-to extensions are being added. 

They are often seen covered in thatch, but timber-frame extensions work well with them too. A catslide roof is a great way to create a sleek, seamless extension, allowing for an existing roof to be continued out and down over the newly formed section of house. 

4. Use a monopitch roof for lean-to extensions

Using a monopitch roof is a really popular idea amongst those creating a lean-to extension, although they are also great for those building on a sloping site or aiming for a striking contemporary design — they are also commonly considered by homeowners interested in installing solar panels on their roof. 

Monopitch roofs have only one sloping plane and are also sometimes referred to as pent roofs or skillion. They are most commonly fixed at a 15 degree angle. 

5. Discover the benefits of a hipped roof

Although hipped roofs are commonly seen on bungalows and semi-detached homes built between during the 1920s and 1930s, they can actually work really well for extensions too.

Hip roofs are comprised of two trapezoid-shaped faces and two triangular planes on — all of which slope towards the exterior walls of the house. All faces will usually be the same pitch, although some contemporary designs do play around with asymmetry.

Hipped roof extensions are often chosen by those looking to create a single storey extension as they overcome the issue of blocking any first floor windows. 

6. Consider an eye-catching barrel roof extension

Barrel vaulted extensions make really exciting design features — yet they are admittedly less commonly seen that many other types. They are also costly to construct and require specialist knowledge. 

On the upside, extensions with barrel roofs enjoy light, bright and airy interiors and can be used alongside some really interesting glazing ideas too.

Construction-wise, they are usually formed using glulam timber portal frames or post and beam forms with curved trusses. 

7. Go eco-friendly with a planted roof

The great thing about green roofs is that there is no need for them to be used for the whole roof of a house. In fact, they often work really well on extensions, particularly those with flat roofs, where their visual appeal can be enjoyed from the upper storey windows. 

There are three main types of green roof: intensive, extensive, and semi-extensive. Intensive roofs consist of a thick layer of soil (50-200mm+) in which a variety of grasses, herbs, flowers and shrubs can grow. 

They are often shunned by those working with an existing structure as they are heavier than the other two types, meaning the supporting structure needs to be capable of carrying the weight. This makes them ideal for those extending as the structural consideration can be designed in from the start.  

8. Enjoy sky views with a glass roof

If you have been searching for glass extension ideas, then you may have considered a glass roof as an alternative to a full glass box structure. You will still benefit from plenty of natural light but the costs are likely to be lower. 

A glass roof can come in many forms, from solid flat roofs studded with a multitude of skylights, to those featuring huge roof lanterns. Of course it is also possible to have a fully glazed roof, made up of either a single pane or multiple glass panels. 

Glass roof extension make so much sense if you are working with an existing building that is currently gloomy and dark — or if it has low ceilings. The contrast between the lower original ceiling and a new glass roof can be really striking. 

9. Use a hip and valley to extend at an angle

Unlike hip roofs, hip and valley roofs are a little more complicated. Instead of the rectangular shape of basic hip roofs, hip and valley roofs form a 'T' or 'L' shape plan where another hip roof intersects the main roof — sometimes resulting in an extra ridge joining the ridge of the main roof. 

This type of roof could be used when building a substantial two-storey extension that comes off the main house at a right angle. 

10. Create contemporary appeal with a clerestory roof

Popular with those aiming for a contemporary extension design, clerestory roofs have two sloping sides that are different in height and a vertical wall that sits between the two — often featuring clerestorey windows to bring lighting into the original section of the building, where the new extension may have taken the place of any old, existing windows. 

Dual pitched roofs are among the most common in the UK — but what does it mean and what do they look like? 

Having a firm grasps on construction terms and phrases such as foundation types, roof pitch and building materials will ensure any project, big or small will be clear and easy to follow, for both you and your architect/supplier. 

Find out what you need to know about this type of roof below, how to spot one in the future, and what the advantages are to this roof style. 

What is a dual pitched roof?

A pitched roof simply has a structure with a slope to it, so a dual pitched roof has two sides which are angled. We see these commonly in a A shape in gable ends. 

A roof pitch with only one slope is known as a monopitch, a style which is usually seen on lean-to extension and modernist building designs. 

The phrasing can lead to some misconception that a 'dual pitched roof' means a home with two separate (usually) gables roofs.   

Can a roof have two different pitches?

While most roofs meet at the same angle or pitch, there are some homes that can include different pitches of roofs that join together. 

While this style of roof is difficult to get right and look appropriate, it can achieve some interesting designs. 

Dormer windows are often a good example of two different pitches on one roof structure, but also pitched roof extensions set at different angles can help to distinguish the new addition from the old property. 

Why choose a dual pitched roof structure?

Dual pitched roofs are chosen for most homes because they offer strong structural stability that can withstand heavy rain (the slope helps with run-off) as well as snow. The design usually means that the home benefits from more living space in the roof, or the use of loft or attic for storage. 

Pitched roofs also offer the ability to include vaulted ceilings in an interior design — a feature that is proving increasingly popular in home designs. 

What are the disadvantages of pitched roofs?

Pitched roofs don't always offer the desired house style in self builds and extensions so homeowners may choose to use more contemporary-style flat roofs that also offer the ability to support a green roof. 

Generally, pitched roofs cost more than flat roofs and can take longer to install thanks to their more complex structure and need for more materials.

However, if you're looking to include solar panels on your roof, you will have to consider the cost of mounting them on a flat roof compared with a pitched one.

Green roofs can also increase the cost of flat roofs as they require more structural support and intricate waterproofing for best results.

A hip roof is an excellent choice for all kinds of house styles, looking just as at home on a contemporary property as it does on something more traditional in form. For this reason, along with their many other benefits, hip roofs are incredibly popular.

When it comes to types of roof, it can be tricky to get to grips with the many different designs out there, what they can offer you and exactly what they look like. 

Here, we provide you with all you need to know about hip roofs (sometimes also known as hipped roofs), from how to identify one to the possibilities they offer when it comes to loft conversions and house extensions. We also take a look at the pros and cons of a hip roof so that you can feel confident you are making the right choice for your home.

What is a hip roof?

Hip roofs are very simple in form and, like other roof styles, come with several variations. Standard hip roofs are comprised of two trapezoid-shaped roof faces on the long sides of the house, along with two triangle-shaped planes on the shorter sides. All four sides slope inwards towards a central ridge and away towards the exterior walls of the house. 

Unlike other types of roof, a hip roof features no gables and there is a complete absence of any vertical sections — plus all four faces are usually the same pitch. Their simple, unfussy appearance and integral strength goes a long way towards explaining their popularity — as well as the rise in the number of hipped roof extensions being built these day.

A hip roof extension features a roof that slopes in towards the house on all sides. Sometimes they have a ridge, but commonly they are built to butt right up to the existing walls of the house, finishing under any first storey windows so as not to block light. 

In addition to the standard hip roof design, there are a couple of variations, which may be more suitable for your house style:

• Crossed hip roof: This is a common roof type that features a perpendicular hip section so that an ‘L’ or ‘T’ shape is formed.
• Pyramid hip roof: This type of roof is used on a square-shaped building, as opposed to a rectangular one. All four triangular roof sections meet at at a single, central apex point.

What are the benefits of a hip roof?

There are pros and cons to all roof structures, whether they concern the costs involved in building them or how well they can withstand bad weather. Choosing the right roof for your home comes down to budget, the area you live in and the kind of house style you are aiming for — as well as whether you plan on creating a loft conversion at some point in the future. 

When it comes to the benefits of hip roofs, the main advantages they hold are:

• Reduced risk of water ingress thanks to sloping faces on all sides — there's nowhere for water or snow to sit.
• Brilliant wind resistance. They are great in exposed areas as there are no flat surfaces to 'catch' the wind, which can cause damage.
• Stable construction due to being 'self-bracing' (thanks to all four sides sloping towards the centre). 
• Great drainage possibilities as not only do all the faces slope down and towards the ground, but gutters can also be be fitted on all four sides.  
• Easily adapted to suit all house styles from super contemporary to classic and traditional.

What are the disadvantages of a hip roof?

Of course, there are also some downsides to hip roofs and it is important to take these into consideration before settling on a design as they could affect both the look and performance of your home. 

The cons of a hip roof include: 

• Slightly more expensive than gabled roofs. This is down to them needing more building materials to construct as well as them being more complex to build. 
• More labour intensive to build due to the complex construction of the rafters and trusses.
• Greater risk of leakage where the seams are constructed at the ridges (only if not constructed correctly in the first place and poorly maintained).

How are hip roof loft conversions built?

Loft conversions are popular projects amongst those living in houses with hip roofs, keen to increase their existing living space or add a bedroom.

A hip-to-gable loft conversion basically involves changing the sloping section at one end of the house, into straight, vertical wall — thereby creating a gable, with way more headroom. This will often be combined with a dormer loft conversion at the rear. 

A hip-to-gable loft conversion is one of the best options for those living with hipped roofs as this type of roof can be more limiting when it comes to useable space in the loft than with gable roofs.

Another reason this type of loft conversion is a good idea in these situations is down to the fact that, while in properties with dual pitched roofs there’s usually enough headroom in the loft to accommodate new stairs, when converting a loft under a hip roof, this can be problematic.  

Metal roofing can offer self builders and extenders an eco-friendly, low-maintenance option when it comes to choosing this key material which will above their heads. 

With pretty much every style and colour available, metal is an alternative to other more traditional types of roof tile such as slate and clay, and can suit a range of different new home designs, as well as blending or contrasting with existing structures. 

Take a look below to discover what metal roof products are available, what they offer and a range of stylish projects which have featured this material. 

What are the different metal roofing types?

"From traditional green-hued copper to streamlined stainless steel, there's an array of options when it comes to metal roofing systems," explains homes journalist Rebecca Foster. "This natural materials offers self builders a high-quality, long-lasting solution." 

Just like metal cladding, there are a variety of roofing products that can withstand the rain and snow. The main material options include: 

• Zinc: "While you may think of zinc as a contemporary roofing material, it's been used for almost 200 years," says Rebecca Foster. "One of the beauties of the material is the sheer array of colours and finishes it is available in."
• Aluminium: "Coated aluminium is very lightweight and comes in a range of colours," explains Sean McHugh from The Metal Roof Company. "It uses similar installation techniques to zinc. However, aluminium cannot be soldered, which means certain installations may need to be approached in a different way by your contractor."
• Steel: Stainless steel will not develop a patina over time while galvanised or corrugated steel can be used to create an agricultural-inspired effect. 
• Corten steel: "The heavy-duty steel forms a protective layer of rust on its surface, and this weathering gives Corten its distinctive orange colouring," details Allan Corfield, founder of AC Architects. 
• Copper: "Copper can be purchased in a wide variety of finishes, including aged Verdigris green copper and bright raw copper," advises Sean McHugh. "Once installed, the metal will immediately start to oxidise and lose its bright natural patina."
• GreenCoat PLX: "This is a coated steel that's popular across Scandinavian countries," continues Sean McHugh. "It's made using eco-friendly coatings such as rapeseed oil. It's ideal as a zinc alternative because of its lower cost and similar installation technique. Also, it looks very similar to zinc but can be supplied in RAL colours to match windows and doors." 

Why choose metal roofing? 

"When people think of metal roofing, they tend to imagine corrugated metal sheets, however, modern, lightweight metal roofing tiles come in a large variety of colours and profiles; with some manufactured to look like a traditional roofing tile, while still bringing all the benefits of a metal roof," explains David Padmore, sales director at Metrotile Lightweight Roofing Systems. 

Metal roofing offers many benefits that make it is fierce competitor to options such as concrete roof tiles, slate and shingle styles. Not only do metal roofs last a long time – withstanding harsh weather like rain, wind and snow – but they're usually fire, mildew and rot resistant. Plus, unlike some tiles and shingles they can be installed on roof with low pitches. 

Metal roofs are also seen as a more environmentally friendly option as many metal products use recycled steels or other products, while the roofs themselves are also recyclable. 

"Steel and other metals roofing materials are much more effective at preserving heat than many other tiles (such as clay roof tiles)," adds David Padmore. "They can help to save you money on heating bills as you won’t necessarily need to heat the property as much. A metal roof has high solar reflectivity and emissivity, which can cool down the property if it’s in a hot place. With conservatory roofs, lightweight roof tiles actually help to keep the conservatory cooler in the summer, yet manage to retain heat in the winter.

How much does metal roofing cost?

"As a minimum, expect to pay £100/m2 for zinc roofs", Rebecca Foster states, but Jonathan Lowy from VMZinc adds that "The location, size and complexity of your project will obviously have an influence on the cost."

For Corten roof designs AC Architects' Allan Corfield, estimates: "You can expect to get quotations from specialist contractors in the region of £280 -£350m2 for a full installed system"

"While metal roofing tiles tend to be more expensive per unit in comparison to asphalt shingles, the investment into a high-quality, lightweight steel roofing tile can prove to be cheaper over its lifespan," David Padmore says. "The lifespan of a roof is a key aspect when choosing which material to go with. Not only for cost savings and removing the hassle of having to install another one, but also it is more environmentally friendly if it lasts longer. 

"Unmistakably, lightweight steel roof tiles have a long lifespan. They require little upkeep or repairs, lasting around 60 years, meaning after the initial investment into the roofing materials, there’s often no additional costs."

Is metal roofing better than shingles? 

"Typically, metal roofs have a far larger life span than asphalt shingles, which are more susceptible to weathering over time and damage in extreme weather conditions," advises Metrotile's David Padmore. "Due to this durability, metal roofs tend to need little to no maintenance once installed, while asphalt shingles often need to be replaced or repaired due to problems with damp, fungus/algae growth, or cracks."

What are the disadvantages of metal roofing?

While there are many benefits to metal roofs, there are also some disadvantages; metal roofs can be noisy when bad weather strikes and can dent if hit by something with enough force. 

The initial cost of metal roofs may also be prohibitive to many. 

In brief, if you intend to clad the entirety of your home in metal roofing, it's also worth investigating whether your self build mortgage provider or lender will deem this as a 'non-conventional construction'; which could make the project more difficult to finance.

Can you put a metal roof over shingles?

If the roof structures and shingles are in sound condition then yes, you can put a metal roof over the top of the shingles. However, taking the shingles off and starting again will be neater and result in a better finish overall. 

"The roof would need to have a breathable underlay lead on top of the existing shingles, then would be counter-battened and have the fascia boards renewed to suit the increased height," adds David Padmore. 

Can you walk on a metal roof?

You can walk on many metal roofs as the weight should be distributed onto supporting battens, but some can dent and many materials are extremely slippery so be cautious if you do venture onto the roof. 

You are likely to be no stranger to the pantile roof if you live on the eastern coast of England or Scotland, where they are a common sight.

Clay pantiles first began to appear in these areas during the 17th century when they were imported from Holland, usually as ballast on trading ships. 

Despite their historical nature, when it comes to types of roof tiles, pantiles are actually still a popular choice with many thanks to the character and charm they add to buildings, and their availability in materials other than clay make them a more affordable option than they once were. 

If this is a type of roof tile that you are considering then our guide is just what you need. We explain everything you need to know about pantile roofs, from exactly what they are to how they are laid and repaired.

What is a Clay Pantile Roof?

In short, it is a roof covered in pantiles. Pantiles are large format, S-shaped tiles designed to be laid in a side lapping arrangement, with the ends of the tiles overlapping the course directly below only. This is different to other types of clay roof tiles, such as plain tiles, which lap two courses. 

Although traditionally clay pantiles were single with the right-hand edge turned down and the left hand edge curved upwards and were not interlocking, it is now possible to find modern alternatives with different profiles and in materials other than clay.

These other types of pantile include: 

• Interlocking pantiles: These are designed to be quicker (and therefore cheaper) to install than non-interlocking pantiles. They are also suitable for low pitch roofs and come in clay, concrete and metal. 
• Concrete pantiles: Although many of these are designed to replicate clay pantiles, be aware that some concrete roof tiles can lack the same rich tones and distinctive individuality of clay and they tend not to weather as well either — plus they are heavier. That said, they are much more budget-friendly. 
• Metal pantiles: While metal pantiles are not recommended when repairing an original clay pantile roof, they are easy to lay (usually sold in strips or sheets), very lightweight and suitable for roof pitches as low as 10˚.
• Double pantiles: Double pantiles are usually much cheaper than single clay pantiles overall, being larger format and quicker to lay. They come in both clay and concrete. 

How are Pantiles Laid?

The method used for laying pantiles depends on whether they are single or double, non-interlocking or interlocking. 

Traditional single clay pantiles do come in various designs which can affect the fixing technique. However, most pantiles are hung on rafters which are attached to horizontal battens spaced across the roof structure. 

The top right hand corner and bottom left hand corner of most pantiles feature chamfered edges that are equal to both the headlap and the sidelap, along with a 'nib and nail hold' fixing moulded into the top edge of the tile which secures it to the batten. 

Pantiles are laid in rows so that the downturn of one tile overlaps the upturn of the next. This creates the beautiful and distinctive undulating look, but also has a practical purpose as the peaks and troughs direct rainwater into the centre of the tile and channel it down the roof slope.

It is common for the ridge of a pantile roof to be protected by clay ridge tiles which are either half-round or 'V' shaped. 

What are the Advantages of Pantile Roofs?

Their attractive appearance aside, one of the main benefits of a pantile roof is how lightweight they are — in fact, they are often up to a third lighter than other types of roof tile.

In addition, many modern pantiles can be used on roof pitches as low as 12.5˚.

What Maintenance do they Require?

Although pantile roofs can, if well looked-after, be expected to last many years, just as with any type of roof wear and tear and damage will be inevitable, at some stage.

The most common reason why pantile roofs require repair is to deal with loose and broken tiles. In years gone by, 'parging' or 'torching' (a type of lime plaster or mortar) was used rather than roofing felt to keep tiles in place, and on older roofs, where the parging has degraded, tiles can become loose. 

In addition, moss growth, age and weather damage can also damage tiles, as can rotting battens and fixings.

In the case of a few missing or damaged tiles, replacements will need to be fixed in their place to keep the building watertight — make sure you seek professional advice on how to repair a roof beforehand. 

Can You Buy New Clay Pantiles?

While it is possible to buy both new clay and concrete pantiles, when repairing an old roof, care must be taken to preserve the character of the roof. 

"Replacement pantiles should usually match the existing ones," say the experts at SPAB (The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings). "Substitution with concrete pantiles, profiled steel decking or plain tiles is undesirable as, generally, is replacement of handmade pantiles with machine-pressed ones (or vice-versa)."

Wherever possible, aim to reuse tiles that are still in sound condition – although sometimes it is possible to mix in matching replacement pantiles with old ones to soften the look – or to reserve their use for less obvious sections of the roof. 

If you have no choice but to use replacement tiles when repairing an old roof, it is really important to find as close as match to the originals as possible as tiles with a different profile shape won't fit together with existing tiles properly. 

Of course, if you are covering a new roof with pantiles, you have a wider range of options. 

Both handmade and machine-made clay pantiles are available, as are concrete versions — you will need to weigh of the pros and cons of concrete vs clay roof tiles carefully before making your final decision. 

What Do Pantiles Cost?

You will need to factor in your new pantiles when working out the cost of tiling a roof. The price you will pay will very much depend on what the tiles are made of and whether they are new or reclaimed.

Reclaimed single clay pantiles can come in at anything between £1.50 - £5 per tile + VAT, while new single clay pantiles tend to cost between £2-£3 per tile. Concrete pantiles can cost less than £1 per tile. 

Obviously the size of the tiles will dictate how many tiles you will need per m2 — this can be anything between nine to 20 tiles or more. 

With such a massive range of types of roof in the world of architecture it can feel overwhelming when it comes to either understanding the style you already have in place, or the design which would most suit your new house.

The roof type you choose will have a huge effect on the final look of your home so it really does pay to get to grips with what your options will be and understand the jargon that relates to this crucial design element.

Our guide to roof types is here to simplify things, laying out the most common options here in the UK, along with the houses they best suit. We have also included a handy terminology explainer to ensure that there is no chance of you feeling befuddled by any information you receive along the way. 

The Most Common Types of Roof

There is a huge number of types of roof and, to further confuse things, each type is often available in more than one variety. Just as it is important to understand the differences between roof structures, so too is it crucial to get your head around the various shapes and forms out there. 

"When designing a building, it can often be taken for granted that the roof is a one shape-fits-all affair, but this is definitely not the case," explains Trevor Corser of JTC Roofing Contractors. "There are a huge number of roof types, all serving a different purpose and more suitable to certain weather conditions and building styles."

Here, we have aimed to cover the most common types of roof you are likely to come across in order to help you ensure you know exactly what your options are and which style will best suit your needs. 

The types of roof we cover here are:

• Gable 
• Hip 
• Flat 
• Mansard 
• Pent (monopitch)
• Curved
• Dormer
• Parapet
• Hip and valley
• Clerestory
• M-shaped
• Jerkinhead

Roof Type Terminology

Before getting to grips with the various types of roof out there, it helps to understand the jargon surrounding them.

• Gable: The triangular-shaped section of the wall at the end of a ridged roof
• Hip: The external angle where two sides of a roof meet
• Ridge: The horizontal peak of the roof where roof faces meet
• Eaves: The lower edge of the roof (this is usually where soffits, guttering and fascia will all be located)
• Dormer: A vertical window projecting out from the main roof, usually at a 90 degree angle
• Valley: The internal angle between two sloping roofs

1. Gable Roofs

Gable roofs are one of the most popular choices for UK houses, offering good roof space and being strong, stable and easy to construct. They are also one of the simplest and instantly recognisable types of roof. 

The most common type of gable roof is the open gable. This is made up of two sloping roof faces that are equal in size and meet at a ridge at the top. This is the ideal choice for rectangular-shaped houses and results in two walls that reach all the way to the apex of the roof, with the other two extending up to the gutter.

There are several types of gable roof, including:

Box gable: This type of gable roof sits on top of a rectangular house, as a separate element — the gable ends project out a little and are usually clad in tile or weatherboarding as opposed to being made from brick.

Cross gable: Cross gable roofs are used for properties that are a little more complex in their design, as opposed to simply rectangular houses. They feature two or more roof ridges that intersect each other, often perpendicularly. 

2. Hip Roofs

Another very common roof type in the UK with hipped roof extensions being really popular right now. 

Hip roofs feature two trapezoid-shaped roof faces on the long sides of the house and two triangle-shaped planes on the shorter sides — all sloping towards the exterior walls of the house. There are no gables or vertical sections to the roof and all faces will usually be the same pitch. 

As with gable roofs, there are several variations on the hip roof design:

Crossed hip: This is a common roof type that features a perpendicular hip section so that an ‘L’ or ‘T’ shape is formed.

Pyramid hip: This type of roof features on a square-shaped building, as opposed to a rectangular one. All four triangular roof sections meet at at a single, central apex point.

3. Flat Roofs

Not actually flat at all, flat roofs should always feature a slight slope to allow water to run off and prevent puddling. 

Although they often suffered from a bad reputation in the past, these days they are once again a popular option, whether for single-storey extensions or in the design of contemporary-style homes. 

Flat roofs can be covered in a number of materials, including single-ply membrane and make ideal green roofs too. Zinc roofs are often flat, where a traditional batten roll finish is commonly used. 

4. Mansard Roofs

This type of roof was named after the French architect François Mansart. Mansard roofs are made up of four sides, each of which features a double plane or slope. The bottom slopes are steeper than the upper slopes.

This is a great option for anyone who wants to ensure they have plenty of room in their roof — possibly to use as additional living space either immediately or at some point in the future. Mansard loft conversions are a popular way of adding extra volume to an existing loft.

5. Pent Roofs

Pent roofs are not just for sheds and conservatories — they can be used on houses too. 

Pent roofs are known by several other names, including skillion, lean-to, shed and mono-pitched. They are cheap and easy to construct as they are made of one single piece of roofing, fixed at angle of at least 15 degrees. 

Pent roofs are perfect for those interested in solar power, ideally if the roof faces a southerly orientation. 

6. Curved Roofs

A curved roof can add great interest to a house and they are often used on contemporary self builds, or on Dutch barn conversions.

This type of roof pairs perfectly with metal roof coverings which is perhaps why so many zinc roofs are curved. They also present the opportunity for some really dramatic, soaring interior spaces. 

7. Dormer Roofs

Dormer roofs are often seen where loft conversions have been carried out as they add more space and light than is possible with just the addition of rooflights. They're also a popular feature on one-and-half storey homes or dormer bungalows.

Dormer roofs feature a mini gable roof that projects out at a 90 degree angle from the sloping face of the main roof. There is usually a window on the gable end of this section.

8. Parapet Roofs

A common feature of Georgian houses and new Georgian-style homes, parapet roofs are made up of a flat, or very shallow pitched roofs, concealed by walls that extend up past the roof by several feet. This forms a small wall around the edge of the roof within — perfect if you have any safety concerns surrounding flat roofs as it can prevent the risk of falling.

9. Hip and Valley Roofs

Similar to a hip roof in design, hip and valley roofs are a little more complex in their shape so suit homes with more involved floorplans than those that are simply rectangular in form.

Rather than the rectangular shape in the plan of a simple hip roof, hip and valley roofs have a 'T' or 'L' shape plan formed by another hip roof intersecting the main roof. This means there is an extra ridge, which joins the main roof ridge at the same height, creating a single valley for an ‘L’ shaped roof or two valleys for a  ‘T’ shaped roof.

The 'hips' refer to the sharp edges where the slopes of the sides of each face of the roof meet, and the valleys are formed at the joins with the extended roof section.

10. Clerestory Roofs

Now commonly used in contemporary buildings, clerestory roofs feature two sloping sides of different heights, with a vertical wall sitting between. It is common for clerestorey windows – large horizontal windows, or banks of smaller windows – to be set along this vertical wall which can draw in large amounts of natural light to the interior of the house.  

11. M-Shaped Roofs

This style of roof is really striking. It is basically two gable roofs joined together, with either side of the whole roof resting on the outer, loadbearing walls. 

In order to prevent water pooling in the centre of the 'M' a gutter should run between the pitches. 

12. Jerkinhead Roof

Popular all over the UK and particularly well-suited to traditional-style homes with clay roof tiles, jerkinhead roofs are also sometimes referred to as 'clipped' or 'snub' gables.

They have many similarities to a gable roof but the two peaks of either end are 'clipped off' — looking a little like they have been folded over. This means there is more headroom than with a hip roof — plus it increases the roof's wind resistance. 

Gable roofs are a classic design in British architecture. With their sloped sides and pitch, this style of roof has become one of the most-wanted features in home design and achievable for self builders and extenders alike. 

The type of roof you opt for won't just inform the style of the house or extension, but also the roof pitch, the materials that can be used and the cost of the project as a whole. The gable roof is arguably one of the simplest roof types to introduce, making it a popular addition to many homes.

We delve into the ins and outs of gable roofs below, answering your questions and providing gorgeous real-project examples of how a gable roof has added finesse to different homes. 

What is a Gable Roof?

Gable roofs are formed of two flat sides which join together in an inverted 'V' shape to create the roof ridge and pitch. 

This style of roof is designed so water and snow can run down the slopes and into gutters so is mostly seen in countries like the UK which suffer from wet or poor weather. 

What Part of the Roof is a Gable?

The gable is the part of a roof which gives the structure an 'A' or inverted 'V' shape. A gable end, however, is the exterior wall which sits directly below the gable. In the example below, the gable roof structure creates the ridge point and the sloping sides, while the gable end is the wall below which is clad in blue-painted timber. 

Other elements for which you may need to know the terminology during a self build or while building an extension include: 

• A rake is the overhanging element of a gable
• A bargeboard (also known as a rake fascia) is a board fastened to the projecting gable of a roof to provide strength and protection. 
• A cross gable is where one building structure with and gable sits perpendicular to another building structure with a join in the roof (as above)
• A valley is created where two roof sloped meet in a cross gable. 

What is the Difference Between a Gable Roof and a Hip Roof?

The difference between a hip roof and a gable roof is that a hip roof slopes down diagonally at all sides where a gable roof only slopes on two and features a vertical wall below called the gable end. 

There are pros and cons to both, but the considerations can include cost (a hip roof is more expensive to construct, weather (a gable roof is less durable in bad weather) and the overall design your home. 

The home shown below includes a hip roof on the left and a gable roof on the right.

A dutch gable perhaps present the best of both wolds. In short, they are constructed using a hip roof with a gable roof placed on top creating an unusual shape to allow better natural light and ventilation.

For more on hip roofs, take a look at our guide to hipped roof extensions. 

What are the Benefits and Disadvantages of a Gable Roof?

What is the Opposite of a Gable?

The opposite of a gable roof is called a butterfly roof. The wing-like structure dips in the centre in a 'V' shape to funnel rainwater towards the gutters. 

This style of roof allows for windows below to be larger and to capture views better. 

Gable Roof Ideas: 4 Fantastic Projects Using the Simple Roof Design

1. Use a Gable Roof to Create an Overhang

This self-build is positioned on an enviable coastal plot. The overhanging gables shield the home from the elements and ensure the contemporary design fits in with the structures in the surrounding areas. 

"The context of the site seemed to call for a traditional pitched roof and simple, agricultural forms," says architect Stan Bolt. 

2. Build an L-Shaped Home with a Cross Gable Roof

This self build took its cue from nearby barns for its structural inspiration. The cross gable roof is simple, yet striking, with a palette of materials include silvering larch cladding.  

The cross gable design sees with the majority of the rear elevation oriented to maximise solar gain in the kitchen, living and dining space while the hall, utility and office are positioned on the northern elevation. 

3. Experiment with a Asymmetrical Open Gable Roof

A fresh take on a double-fronted house, this gable roof design was angled to ensure the neighbours had suitable natural light. 

Th result is certainly striking, and reassuringly mimics elements of other homes on the street, including the modern version of bay windows on the ground floor.

4. Add a Glazed Gable to Make the Most of Views

Two glazed gables capitalise on the views across the Warwickshire countryside in this self build, which also features a small gable dormer window on the left side. Dick, the homeowner's, favourite element of the house is the roof: "It has so many pitches and valleys in it you can really see how incredibly difficult is was to actually design the different heights and dormer. It just draws me in; I love to stop and look at it."

Simply put, a pitched roof extension is an addition to an existing house with a roof structure in the shape of a triangle. This style of extension is often chosen for its ability to maximise the ceiling height in a design.

But there are also practical plus points, making them a popular choice with homeowners and architects alike.

Generally speaking, pitched roofs are pricier than flat, but there are long-term benefits to consider which may outweigh the difference in cost for you.

We aim to explore the pros and cons of a pitched roof extension, as well as what to consider in terms of materials and budget.

Pitched roof extensions explained

Pitched roof extensions, unlike flat roofs, are built on a slant. Common variations include: "Mono pitch, gable roof, hipped roof, butterfly roof, and mansard," explains Stuart Archer of Archer + Braun Architecture

Whilst flat roof extensions have their place, architects like Pereen D'Avoine, at Russian for Fish see their benefits in creating an open feel.

“Don’t get me wrong, we love a flat roof, but despite being a very traditional choice, pitched roofs continue to be one of the main preferences for clients. It's such a timeless option, offering beautiful lofty interior spaces while often complementing the existing and surrounding structures,” says Pereen.

Materials for pitched roofs

Materials for a pitched roof are not unlike most roofing materials. "Traditional clay roof tiles are popular due to their natural material make-up, durability and aesthetic appeal. Slate is another natural choice, with the charcoal grey tone working beautifully alongside brickwork and more contemporary glass structures," says Pereen D'Avoin.

Given increases in the price of materials and by default the cost of extensions, there have been alternative options explored. "There has been a rise in fibre cement slates recently as a more cost-effective option."

Bear in mind, that cheaper materials such as this can have environmental implications. "Although fibre cement is incredibly durable as a cladding material, the manufacturing process can have higher carbon emissions than alternative materials, so we try to avoid it where possible," says Pereen.

Planning permission for pitched roofs

"There is a benefit that a pitched roof extension can also help you overcome constraints on planning permission for extensions," says Yaniv Peer, director at Iguana Architects. "Traditional extensions under a householder application will normally be allowed to a depth of 3.5m under the planner's discretion."

"However, if you intend on extending further than this then you will need a little ace up your sleeve and that comes in the form of pitching the roof eaves height down to 2m at the neighbour's boundary.

"Permitted Development (PD) Rights allow you to build up a fence up to a height of 2m and as such the position made to planning officers is that there is no further impact to outlook from the neighbours' side than a garden fence."

Pros of a pitched roof extension

"Pitched roof extensions offer many benefits and are quite often a popular way to extend," begins George Allen, regional design consultant from Oakwrights, including:

• Efficiency: More insulation can be installed in a pitched roof, providing better energy efficiency.
• Style: They can suit traditional and modern extension ideas. "Pitched roofs are more traditional, but they can appear contemporary if a modern material is used and can be vaulted internally to provide drama," advises Lydia Robinson, founder of Design Storey Architects.
• Height: "The vaulted ceiling design offers an airy feeling to the room, linking well with lower ceilings for high ridge lines and lots of light," says George Allen.
• Versatility: "Pitched roof extensions are also very versatile, with multiple roof material options from clay, slate, shingles and zinc, there is an aesthetic to suit any property," adds George Allen.
• Durability: In a similar way to hipped roof extensions, pitched roofs are more stable than flat roofs when dealing with snow or heavy rain.

Cons of a pitched roof extension

There are some aspects in which pitched roof extension might not be suitable for every project:

• Cost: "A lot comes down to size and area but in a simplistic view there is a lot more structure to construct and area to weatherproof on a pitched roof so it will command a higher cost," says architect Adam Knibb.
• Complexity: The design, roof slope and angle, and materials are key to a successful pitched roof extension – get any of these wrong and the finished product will look inappropriate to the existing house.
• Composition: The composition of the structure means there is an increased burden placed on the foundations that may impact the depth of the required footings for the extension.
• Personal taste: Some may feel that flat roofs offer a more contemporary look which appeals to certain homeowners.
• Planning: Some planning permission departments might prefer a completely different style of extension to that of an existing house to clearly demarcate the old and new structures.

Pitched roof extension costs

"Calculating extension costs like a pitched roof extension in the current market has its difficulties," explains Brian Berry, Chief Executive of the Federation of Master Builders (FMB). "We are seeing material costs at all-time highs. This increase is driven by a range of issues such as inflation, export duties, the war in Ukraine and energy costs."

"This rise in cost may understandably push customers to look for cheap and quick solutions. However, I urge extreme caution when looking for quotes, a good builder is a busy builder and may not come cheap," advises Brian.

Compared to flat roof extensions there is more consideration that needs to be given by the contractor to the works and as such it demands a contractor with good carpentry skills explains Iguana Architects' Yaniv Peer. There are also more material components which flat roofs don't need (see below).

Costs will also vary based on the type of glazed kitchen extension ideas you plan on using as well as your choice of external cladding.

FAQs

Is a pitched roof extension more expensive?

"Pitched roof extensions tend to be more expensive than flat roofs as the build-up is more complicated with more components, for example, a pitched slate roof would require slates, battens, counter battens, a ventilated cavity and a breather membrane all on top of the insulation.

"In comparison, a flat roof is usually finished off with some kind of single-ply waterproofing membrane (or similar) on top of the insulation," says architect Stuart Archer.

Architect Scott Donald points out that a conventional trussed roof structure with a tiled finish might be a similar cost to a flat roof. "But like anything, as soon as you go specialist or alternative, it will cost more money. We do a lot of pitched zinc roofs, which look great, but do come at a higher cost," says Scott.

Can you add a pitched roof to an existing extension?

"Yes, as long as you key in the same roof finish, then it is entirely possible," explains architect Scott Donald.

"Often, when utilising an existing pitched roof, you would strip the old roof finish and use new for an extended pitched roof. Extending a pitched roof will be dictated by planning. Typically, planners like to see an extension subservient to an original roof, so it has to sit a touch lower, circa 30cm."

Pitched roofs can be a way to add a certain grandeur, even to a modest space. Take a look at our small house extension ideas for more inspiration on how to maximise the impact of your new space.

When adding space and value to your home, hipped roof extensions might not be the first thing that spring to mind, but the roof design is by no means less important than the new kitchen or living room design. 

Much the opposite, deciding on a roof structure for your project might be dictated by planning permission, or a design that either suits or contrasts with the existing house's design. 

Hips roofs are often seen in inter-war semis and bungalows, although some designers are experimenting with this pyramid-like shape while building an extension in a more contemporary style. 

Take a look below to find out what you need to know about hipped roof extensions and see if this roof is right for your new space. 

What is a Hipped Roof Extension?

A hipped roof extension is an addition to an existing house with a roof structure which slopes on all sides (with or without a ridge). 

Traditionally the slopes are equal in length but more modern design have seen homes playing with asymmetrical hip roofs for a contemporary take on the design.

Alternatively, a hip roof extension can be built to butt up against and slope away from an existing exterior wall to prevent blocking a first floor window when creating a single-storey extension. 

Advantages of a Hipped Design

Hipped roof extension offer many practical benefits, including: 

• The roof structure is self-bracing so is a good option for houses in exposed windy or snowy locations
• The structure is easier to build from a construction point of view 
• As the sides all slope from the ridge, there is nowhere for rain to sit, reducing the likelihood of damp. Guttering can also be installed on all sides for good drainage. 
• Hipped lean-to styles are a good choice for single storey extension to prevent a window on the first floor from being blocked. 

Disadvantages of Choosing a Hipped Extension

Extensions with hipped roof structures do have downsides, however: 

• More expensive to build than other roof constructions, thanks to the increase in materials required. (MORE: How Much Will my Roof Cost?)
• More seams means a greater risk of leaks although this is fine if the roof is properly maintained. 
• Generally can't offer a vaulted ceiling extension. 

Can You Extend a Hipped Roof?

When extending an existing hip roof, a hip to gable loft conversion will most likely be the most practical option.

"Hipped roofs have sloped on all sides," explains chartered surveyor Ian Rock. "This can make them harder to convert than gabled roofs because there's less headroom inside the loft. A common solution involves boosting headroom by extending the roof sideways, either with a large projecting side dormer, or converting the side hip to a new gable."

Hipped Roof Extension Ideas: Five Great Projects 

1. Contrast Different Roof Styles 

Rachel and Tim Buxton added a glazed oak-frame extension to their 17th-century farmhouse. Planning permission clearly dictated that any new additions must be clearly distinguishable from the original so they chose a pyramid-style hipped roof to contrast with the main house and later brick extension. 

2. Use a Hipped Roof to Blend In

This zinc roof extension was built in timber frame to replace a flat-roofed garage. "In design terms the aim was to get the balance right so that it wouldn't feel like an add-on but would complement the traditional house, not compete with it," comments Glaswegian architect Daniel Bär. "It was important to make the extension understated and elegant."

3. Build a Small Hipped Lean-to Roof Extension

This small front extension gives the homeowners some extra storage space and a cloakroom. The hipped roof enables the first floor window to remain unobstructed. 

4. Design a Hip to Gable Roof Extension

Mulroy Architects removed the entire hipped roof from this 1930s house and replaced it with a highly insulated alternative reusing the original roof tiles. The new roof features hip to gable loft extensions to fit a generous master suite with a walk-on balcony.  

5. Mirror the Existing House's Roof Design

Ill-conceived additions to this Victorian house were removed and replaced with two contemporary extensions that delicately mirror the original Victorian building through scale, fenestration and, of course, a modern take on the traditional hipped roof. 

Concrete vs clay roof tiles — it is an issue often on the minds of those self building, extending or renovating. And with the question of what type of roof tile you use needing to be addressed early on in your project, the pressure is on to make a decision. .

There are many types of roof coverings, but for most people the choice usually comes down to concrete vs clay roof tiles. 

The decision is often a result of budget, the style of the house, the local area and planning stipulations. But there are other points to consider too, such as how long you plan on staying in the house and the overall style you are aiming for. 

Here we run through the pros and cons of clay and concrete products

Concrete Vs Clay Roof Tile Prices

Are Concrete Roof Tiles Cheaper Than Clay?

The main reason people choose concrete roof tiles over clay lies in their affordability. The more time-consuming manufacturing process of clay tiles is the main culprit for this.

Concrete tile prices vary depending on the type of tile you opt for. For example, interlocking concrete tiles are cheaper than plain concrete tiles, with prices as low as 34p per tile (excluding VAT). 

You should bear in mind, of course, that you will also need to factor in costs for fixings and labour and, when working  out how many tiles you will need, don't forget wastage. 

Within the range of clay roof tiles available, there are different price options. For example, handmade clay tiles can cost up to 50% more than machine-made clay tiles. Also, a machine-made clay tile such as Marley’s Acme Single Camber clay plain tile costs just a fraction more than a concrete equivalent.

“Clay tiles can vary in price but are roughly 20%-30% higher than concrete, but it’s important to remember that all the remaining roofing costs are the same whether you use clay or concrete, so the actual saving on the whole roof is considerably less than the 20%,” says Dave Sherry, sales manager of Dreadnought Tiles. “Concrete is also heavier than clay and may require a different structural arrangement to support the heavier load, which could add to the cost of the roof.

“While concrete tiles are less expensive than clay, there is, increasingly, a greater variety of clay roof tiles for the self builder to choose from and greater opportunity to find a solution within budget.”

Prices for machine-made clay tiles are, on average, from around £405 per 1,000, while handcrafted tiles (made by machine, but designed to simulate the appearance of a handmade product) start at £500 per 1,000. Handmade clay tiles tend to start at around £772 per 1,000.

What's the Difference in Appearance Between Concrete vs Clay Roof Tiles?

How can you Tell the Difference Between Concrete vs. Clay Roof Tiles?

Yes, concrete tiles may well win in the price stakes, but clay roof tiles possess a charm and character that is difficult to replicate. 

That said, these days there are some really convincing clay replicas (not to mention slate lookalikes) and, in the case of contemporary homes, where a traditional, rustic aesthetic is not perhaps integral to the design, concrete is a good option. 

The main differences become more obvious with age. The natural properties of clay allow for an appearance that stands the test of time with improved colour stability. With concrete products, although most are now through-coloured, the finished aesthetic is achieved with a coating and this may diminish over time.  

“The case for clay tiles over concrete is largely an aesthetic one,” says Dave Sherry. “A natural clay roof delivers a character and richness that will last for the lifetime of the tiles, even mellowing and improving over time, while a concrete roof will tend to fade over the years. 

It is true that achieving the subtle imperfections and varieties in texture, colour and size is much harder with concrete.

How Durable are Concrete Roof Tiles vs. Clay Tiles?

Do Clay Roof Tiles Last Longer Than Concrete?

The appearance of concrete roof tiles might not withstand the test of time as well as clay, but their performance typically can.

Manufacturers of both clay and concrete tiles tend to offer warranties of at least 30 years, although both can be expected to last at least double this time. It is more likely that the underlay will need replacing well before the tiles. The location of the roof and how well it is maintained affects its longevity in both cases. 

Concrete roof tiles absorb more water than clay, meaning they may be prone to staining or mildew. Clay, on the other hand, may crack in extremely cold weather. However, the British climate does not often experience such wildly extreme weather conditions for these factors to be a huge issue when it comes to making your decision. 

Keeping the roof clean, free of moss and replacing cracked, missing or damaged tiles quickly will extend the life of the roof.

Do Clay or Concrete Roof Tiles Require More Maintenance?

Due to their location, roof tiles need to be able to pretty much look after themselves and thankfully neither clay nor concrete roof tiles require much in the way of maintenance. 

Areas of roof that are likely to be regularly exposed to moisture might, over time, grow moss or lichen (on clay perhaps more so than concrete). Ensuring this is removed will prevent damage.

It’s worth noting that concrete tiles can be prone to efflorescence. Efflorescence, or ‘lime bloom’, often appears as white patches or a lightening in colour and can be confused with colour fading. However, according to the experts at Marley, this efflorescence is a result of the reaction between cement and water and is caused by weather conditions. 

Generally, this occurs early on in the life of the tiles and will be removed by rainwater over time, usually within six to 12 months. 

Pros and Cons

Concrete vs. Clay: Which Roof Tiles Are Best?

When it comes to making your final decision there are a couple of important factors to bear in mind. Ask yourself how long you plan on staying in the property. Those building a forever home should seriously consider paying the extra for clay roof tiles. However, if you are looking to make a quick profit before moving on, a concrete tile makes sense. Opt for the best you can afford to ensure maximum profit.

Those renovating a character property or aiming to create a matching extension to a traditional house really need to be looking at clay tiles. Basically, if premium aesthetics are of upmost importance to you then clay tiles are the way forward. 

If, on the other hand, you are building from scratch, are trying to stick to a budget and are happy for a more uniform roof covering that can quickly be fitted, a concrete roof tile may well be the best option, offering you a durable, long-lasting covering that is available in a really good range of colours and profiles.

Advantages of Clay Roof Tiles

• A natural, rustic appearance that will improve over time with colour that won’t fade
• Range of sizes to suit all roof types and details
• Range of price options, with machine-made at the cheaper end and handmade at the top
• Long lifespan — some clay tiled roofs laid over a hundred years ago are still going strong
• Low maintenance
• Perfect for traditional builds and renovations

Disadvantages of Clay Roof Tiles

• Can crack in extremely cold weather
• Expensive compared to other tile types
• Smaller so more time-consuming to lay

Advantages of Concrete Roof Tiles

• A cost-effective roof covering
• Available in a huge range of colours
• Large format tiles mean fast installation times
• Long warranty periods
• A uniform appearance suited to modern homes 
• Low maintenance

Disadvantages of Concrete Roof Tiles

• Heavier than clay so the roof may need support
• Colour fades over time

Choosing the right types of roof tiles is essential in order to complete your project in style. This is one element that it really pays to do your research on. Whether you are building, renovating or extending, this is your chance to add some crowning character to your project. 

Roofs occupy such a prominent and obvious position meaning that your choice of roof covering is just as important as the way you choose to clad your property and the windows you fit. Not only will it form a protective shield over your home but it also needs to look good.

From traditional and timeless clay roof tiles to more contemporary metal roof coverings, the material you choose for the surface above will create a distinct personality to your home. 

Of course, some types of roof tiles suit certain styles of house more than others. While in other cases you may find yourself restricted by strict planning rules relating to the materials you are allowed to use. 

Here, we take a look at some of the most beautiful options and explain what benefits each material could bring to your roof. 

Choosing the right types of roof tiles for your house

Before getting ahead of yourself and dreaming of a roof covered in striking zinc or weathered handmade clay roof tiles, it is crucial to make sure that you have carefully considered what materials and styles are going to best suit your house. Bear in mind too that the roof can account for as much as 20-30 per cent of the visible exterior area of a house.

Not all roof coverings are going to suit certain houses, plus some will just not be practical in certain locations, will not work with the pitch of the roof, or because of budget restrictions. 

When it comes to the main types of roof tiles there are three designs to consider: pantiles, interlocking and plain, all of which are generally available in clay, concrete and slate. 

Here we delve into the types of roof tiles you might consider.

1. Interlocking roof tiles

Beloved by developers and those on a tight budget, interlocking tiles – usually made from concrete – are the cheapest way of covering a pitched roof. They are shaped to fit together tightly so only a single lap is needed. They are very large and don’t require much in the way of an overlap and so as few as 10 can be used to cover a square metre, which makes them very quick to lay. 

Another benefit is that they can be specified on roofs with shallower roof pitches, which is not the case with all types of roof tiles.

However, they lose much of their cost advantage where the roof shape is more complex and lots of cutting is involved while tiling a roof. 

2. Plain roof tiles

Plain tiles are laid at around 60 tiles per m² and give a far more traditional look than either pantiles or interlockers. 

Although they vary in price and in appearance, they are generally simple and rectangular in shape and tend to be smaller than interlocking tiles. They are laid 'double-lapped' and result in a subtle, traditional look. 

At the upper end of the market are handmade plain clay tiles, where every tile looks different, adding a wonderfully rich texture and plenty of character to the roof.

On the downside, they are more costly than interlocking tiles. 

3. Pantile roofs

Pantile roofs were almost the forerunner to interlocking tiles, and are widely specified on the eastern coast of England and throughout Scotland, where they are a vernacular choice. 

Although usually thought of as a traditional option, they are also now available in more modern designs and in materials other than clay, making them a more affordable option than they once were. 

Pantiles are large format, S-shaped tiles designed to be laid in a side lapping arrangement, with the ends of the tiles overlapping the course directly below. While traditional clay pantiles were not interlocking and were single and had a right-hand edge that turned down and a left-hand edge that curved upwards, they are now available in different profiles too, such as double pantiles.

4. Clay roof tiles

This type of roof tile is available in a huge range of beautiful colours, from characterful reds to eye-catching greys and blues. 

Clay roof tiles also come in design that are suitable for both traditional and modern homes. Clay roof tiles come in all kinds of sizes and profiles, including the very widely used plain and S-shaped pantile units, to intricate designs, such as bullnose — ideal for many period homes.

One of the biggest draws of clay roof tiles is that their appearance actually tends to improve over time rather than degrade — their colour will not fade and the weathering process often only serves to enrich their tones. 

On the downside, they are most certainly not the cheapest option around. Although opting for machine-made rather than handmade will go some way towards cutting costs. 

Roofs with a gradient of 35° or steeper are considered suitable for this type of covering. That said, certain interlocking clay tiles are now available for roof pitches as shallow as 15°.

5. Concrete roof tiles

Both interlocking and plain formats are available in either concrete or clay. Concrete roof tiles are always cheaper, usually around 20% less, but they never weather as well as clay, which tends to improve with age. In contrast, the colour of concrete roof tiles tends to fade and weather after a number of years.

For most people the debate between concrete vs clay roof tiles comes down to cost as opposed to looks. There is also the matter of pitch. Concrete roof tiles can be used on roofs with lower pitches than clay — some on pitches lower than 15˚.

Do bear in mind that concrete tiles tend to be heavier than clay. Your roof structure will need to be suitably strong in order to take their weight so talk this through with your roofer or builder.

6. Slate roofs

Slate roofs became the roofing material of choice for the Victorians, with the railways opening up the Welsh slate quarries to the whole of the country. Today it continues to be in demand, both as a replacement and as a new material, though most slate is now imported from Spain or China. 

Slate looks good in both traditional and modern designs and is a fair, mid-priced option for a roof covering. It also gets better with age.

There are a number of slate alternatives available. Some are basically thin concrete tiles, some use fibre-cement, and a range use reconstituted slate — basically slate dust bound together with resin. These can be moulded to look like natural slate and are available as interlockers, making the laying much simpler and quicker.

It is generally advised that a minimum roof pitch of 20˚ is suitable for slate roof tiles — although their size will dictate the pitch they can be used on.

7. Stone roof slates

Although less widely seen that the other types of roof tile mentioned here, stone roofs are a common sight in the Cotswolds, Yorkshire Moors and other rural areas of the UK. 

A stone roof can last 100 years and could even last 200 to 300 years if well cared for — so whether you are renovating or building a new house with a stone roof, it is vital to get the laying spot on and maintain it properly thereafter. 

Split slates as opposed to sawn slates are preferred by planners and it is always advisable to use the services of an experienced stone roofer to lay this type of roof. They will understand how to ‘dress’ a stone slate with a chisel edge hammer or similar. They will also be able to dress any damaged slates to a smaller size to be used higher up on the roof if required. Plus they are usually skilled in how to repair a roof in need of some TLC. 

Stone roofs are typically at a minimum pitch of 45˚. They are certainly not a cheap option, but are incredibly long lasting and, in some cases, the only option for those with listed or historic homes. 

Which types of roof tiles are best?

The best type of roof tile for each project will be based on budget, location and style preference — and in some cases by the types of roof they are being laid on. Sometimes, especially if you live in a conservation area, the materials might be dictated as a planning condition. 

Both stone slates and clay roof tiles are the most long-lasting options — but do carry a hefty price tag than other materials. 

For those on a budget, concrete roof tiles are going to be very appealing. They have a similar life span to clay but will fade and lose much of their initial appeal appearance-wise over time.

What are the cheapest roof tiles?

Cost is likely to play a large role when it comes to making your decision on what type of roof tile to opt for and while you certainly don't want to scrimp in a way that will mean you end up with a unattractive final roof finish or one that requires replacing in a couple of years, some materials are undoubtedly more suitable for those on a tight budget than others. 

And it's not just the material cost you need to consider — installation costs can also be a factor. "Of the three mainstream roof covering choices, plain tiles, whether clay or concrete, tend to be the most expensive, and that’s mainly down to the increased labour costs of having to lay and fix around 60 tiles per square metre," says self build expert David Snell, author of Building Your Own Home.

"Each interlocking tile costs over twice the cost of a plain tile. But, at an average of 11 to the square metre, far fewer tiles are needed and the labour costs for fixing them are significantly reduced," he explains.

While slate and clay tiles tend to start at similar prices, handmade clay are generally more expensive. 

What tile roof alternatives are there?

Of course tiles are not your only option when it comes to roof covering — there are many alternatives to consider, some of which may well be more suitable for your house. 

Thatched roofs today exist primarily as a restoration activity, but every year there are few thatched new builds as well. Thatching is not something you would ever consider adding to a house as an afterthought — you more or less have to design the house around it. Thatch roof costs are considerable and thatch roofs require fairly frequent attention over the years.

There is currently enormous interest in green roofs, whether that's wildflower planted or sedum. In fact, these are nothing new – being commonly used in parts of Scandinavia and Scotland for hundreds of years – but today’s green roof is a very different beast. 

You have to build such a roof up in layers, paying careful attention to waterproofing details, and the planting regime has to be carefully thought through. There are many environmental benefits claimed to derive from using green roofs, but these are hard to substantiate.

Metal roofing is a somewhat specialised roofing material. It’s typically laid in sheet form and the two most popular metals currently being used are zinc and copper. Lead is now mostly used for flashing material, around chimneys and at roof junctions. 

There are also steel roof tiles available, which are an alternative to concrete, clay or slate, especially suitable for windy sites.

Finally, single ply membrane is a great, lower cost, alternative to metal roofing that is ideal for flat roofs and can do a very good job of mimicking zinc when installed well. 

Clay roof tiles are suitable for both traditional and modern homes, and come in an attractive spectrum of colours, ranging from warm reds and oranges to rich blues and greys.

The material you choose for your roof plays a vital role in establishing the overall character of your home, and few materials match the warm, handcrafted appeal of clay. 

From the pros and cons, how much they cost and how they stack up against the alternatives, here’s everything you need to know about clay roof tiles. 

(MORE: Roof Coverings: What are Your Options?)

Pros and Cons of Clay Roof Tiles

What are the Benefits of Clay Roof Tiles?

“One of the advantages of choosing clay roof tiles is that they’re made from a natural material, which means your tiles will never fade - rather, the opposite occurs,” says Steven Blewitt, director at Sahtas UK. “Natural weathering deepens the shade and colouring over time, unlike artificially pigmented products, like concrete, that will eventually fade due to exposure to UV light.”

Clay roof tiles come in an array of sizes and profiles, from widely used plain and S-shaped pantile units to more decorative designs, such as bullnose and club tiles that sit beautifully atop heritage homes.

“Clay tiles have an impressive eco-friendly lifecycle,” says Paul Lythgoe, managing director at Tudor Roof Tiles. “They’re durable and long-lasting and will help to protect the property against the effects of frost, rain and sun.”

What are the Drawbacks of Clay Roof Tiles?

Clay roof tiles tend to be heavier than some alternatives, which makes transportation and installation more difficult. Like all roof tiles, they are relatively fragile, and shouldn’t be walked on. 

While they stand up to inclement weather well, they may become loose and fall off in high winds, but this is something common to most roof tiles. Clay roof tiles are not necessarily the cheapest option, so aren’t suitable for all budgets. 

How are Clay Roof Tiles Made?

Clay is dug from a quarry and then aged for a few months to allow any soluble salts to leech out. Next, it is worked to the correct particle size and water content, depending on the type of tile needed. The material is then formed into a tile, either by hand or machine. The face colour of the tile is achieved by pressing sand into the surface of the clay and by the firing conditions inside the kiln.

After an extensive drying period, the tiles are fired in kilns to the correct temperature, depending on the type of clay used. A good quality tile needs to be the correct size, shape and colour, and frost resistant to certified standards. To achieve this, quality control measures are implemented at various stages throughout the manufacturing process.

What is the Life Expectancy of Clay Roof Tiles?

Providing they’re laid correctly and well maintained, clay roof tiles have an impressive lifespan. Most manufacturers guarantee their products for between 30 and 50 years, and in reality if you care for your tiles it’s not unreasonable to expect them to last 60 years or more. 

Of course, the longevity of your roof covering depends on the conditions. Moss will grow more readily on damp clay, so be sure to keep your gutters clear from debris to allow rainwater to be channelled away from your roof effectively.

Choosing Clay Roof Tiles

What Size are Clay Roof Tiles?

Clay tiles are available in many shapes and sizes, and what works best for your project largely comes down to personal preference and the vernacular.

However, if you’re roofing an extension, for a cohesive look it usually works best if the tile you choose is a similar size to the units on the existing property.

If you want your house to harmonise with the character of surrounding homes, use that as your starting point when choosing the size of your tiles.

“New technology has enabled the high volume manufacture of modern interlocking clay tiles which are larger in size, reducing the number of tiles required and the installation cost,” adds Steven from Sahtas.

How to Choose a Colour for Clay Roof Tiles

Choose a tile that blends harmoniously with the rest of your exterior materials palette (cladding, render, rainwater goods and so on). In some cases, it may be that a blend of colours works best. 

You may be required to submit material samples to your local authority as part of any planning permission application for a new build or substantial re-roofing project. If your property is listed, you’ll likely need to match the original tiles or those seen on nearby homes.

(MORE: Matching Materials for an Extension)

Are Clay Roof Tiles Good Quality?

Do your research when it comes to choosing a supplier. “Check how long they’ve been trading and where they are located. That way, if you have any issues they are easy to contact and you can visit if necessary,” says Paul from Tudor Roof Tiles. 

Any tiles you purchase should meet the performance requirements laid out under BS EN 1304. This will ensure they’ve been rigorously tested to meet the necessary standards, particularly regarding their performance in frosty conditions. Also, check your tiles are covered by a product guarantee — 30 years is standard.

Installing Clay Roof Tiles

Is my Roof Suitable for Clay Roof Tiles?

Clay tiles are versatile and can be used with all construction methods — roof pitch is the main structural factor to think about. Roofs with a gradient of 35° or steeper are considered suitable for this type of covering. In the past, anything less than 20° has been deemed unsuitable too. 

However, some interlocking products are now available for roof pitches as shallow as 15°. Any lower than this and you might be better off looking at an alternative roofing product, and possibly a different underlay solution too, so be sure to discuss the ins and outs with your chosen tile supplier.

How are Clay Roof Tiles Installed?

Your tiled roof will only ever be as good as the quality of the installation, so be sure to engage an experienced roofing contractor for the job. The National Federation of Roofing Contractors is a good place to start your search.

(MORE: How to Find a Roofer)

Tiles should be mixed from several pallets so the colour variations within each batch don’t look patchy across the surface of your roof.

“Careful attention should be given to setting out the battens correctly and evenly on the roof, starting with the eaves course and finishing with the tops course batten,” says David Sherry, associate director at Dreadnought Tiles. “Not only will the positioning of the battens affect the way the tiles look, but it’s also important to maintain the minimum lap so the units function correctly.”

Retrofitting Clay Roof Tiles

If you’re carrying out repairs on an existing roof, bring in a professional to ascertain how many units are damaged, flaking or have fallen off. If it’s only a few, you might be able to get away with simply replacing the affected tiles with like-for-like units that match the rest of your clay roof covering. If, however, many of the tiles are damaged, you’re probably better off replacing the entire surface with new units.

How Much Do Clay Roof Tiles Cost?

Are Clay Roof Tiles Expensive?

A key factor in the cost of your clay tiles is whether they’re hand or machine made. “Prices can vary from £27/m2 for the most cost-effective, clay, machine-made units, rising to £81/m2 for some handmade plain tiles,” says David from Dreadnought Tiles. “You should consider the cost of haulage too, and whether it’s a part load or needs to be craned off the load, which will also affect the price.”

How Much do Clay Roof Tiles Cost to Install 

Labour costs will also need to be factored in. It’s worth sourcing quotes from at least three reputable contractors. Again, costs will depend on the tile profile you’re using. Simple interlocking units are likely to come with labour costs between £25 and £30/m2, whereas for handmade tiles could be as much as £60/m2. The cost of hiring scaffolding and installing rooflights will inevitably add to the cost, but most roofing contractors will factor these elements into their quotes.

(MORE: How Much Does Tiling a Roof Cost?)

Are Clay Roof Tiles Better Than Concrete?

Each material comes in an array of styles and colours, so there is a good argument for using either for your roof. Concrete roof tiles are typically around 20% cheaper than machine-made clay tiles, which can be an advantage if you’re working with a tight budget. However, the high level of craftsmanship that comes with a clay tile might give this traditional material the edge. 

“Handmade clay roof tiles have been part of the English architectural landscape for centuries and can still be seen on many of our historic buildings,” says Paul Lythgoe from Tudor Roof Tiles. “Like-for-like handmade clay plain and peg tiles are usually a requirement if you’re working on a listed property or a house within a conservation area.”

Bear in mind that the colour is not baked all the way through a concrete tile, so the initial shade of your roof is likely to fade over the years as it is exposed to the sun. Concrete tiles are also heavier than clay units, so if you’re replacing clay tiles with concrete then additional structural reinforcement may be required to your roof can hold the load.

Electric roof windows are definitely worth considering if you are planning to install roof windows in your home. 

Whilst conventional rooflights provide the ideal way to draw light into areas of the house that are not easily served by conventional windows, electric roof windows go one step further, making operation of these sometimes hard-to-reach features a doddle.

What is an Electric Roof Window?

Electric roof windows are those which can be operated by means of a panel on the wall or remote control. They also include rooflights with automatic weather sensors. 

Manual or Electric Roof Windows?

Although manually operated rooflights are the simplest and cheapest solution, they are not always practical. 

In many places, such as where there are high ceilings, or over staircases, the window will be out of reach. If you want to open the roof window, you would either have to use a pole — or opt for electric roof windows. 

How do Electric Roof Windows Work?

Electric roof windows require an electrical motor that has to be housed somewhere accessible, although it is sometimes concealed within the structure. 

There also needs to be a switch which can be hard wired to a switch plate, or they can be wireless. 

Some automated rooflights are solar powered too. 

Should I Choose Wireless Electric Roof Windows?

The choice between wireless or hard-wired home fixtures is a common factor these days in many aspects of housebuilding, including thermostats for heating, door bells, alarm systems and media platforms. 

Wireless switching is much easier to install but is reckoned to be less reliable, although as Wi-Fi and Bluetooth improve, the difference is getting less noticeable. 

Generally, wireless switching requires a hand unit that runs on batteries, so these will need changing from time to time.

Should Electric Roof Windows Have Rain Sensors?

Most rooflights with automatic opening offer rain sensors as an option. 

These are small metal plates which detect rainfall and then automatically close the rooflight when rain is detected.

The quality varies — check to see whether the sensors you opt for will detect other adverse weather such as snow or hail as some have been known to remain open in these conditions...

Will I Need Automatic Rooflight Blinds?

If the rooflight is hard to reach, then it also likely that any blinds it comes with will also be hard to get to meaning electrically operated blinds and shutters will also need to be considered. 

Take a look at our round up of the best skylight blinds. 

Can Manual Rooflights be Converted to Electric?

Yes, although it will require power and switching to be fitted which may be a little more disruptive than you wish in the form of some redecoration and patching up. Talk through the amount of disruption that can be expected with your supplier. 

Electric Roof Windows Smart Tech

One of the more advanced options in the world of automated rooflights is the Velux Active Climate Control module that opens and closes both windows and blinds depending on indoor temperatures, humidity and CO2 levels. 

These automated rooflights and blinds can also be controlled by a smartphone app. In this way, the window control is rather more like a thermostat on a radiator, in that its position is being determined by a simple algorithm which is programmed to respond to certain pre-defined states — i.e. temperature or indoor air quality.

(MORE: Smart Home Gadgets)

If you want to get natural daylight flooding into a room under a flat roof, then you will be looking at a flat roof windows. They are a relatively new phenomenon and have grown more common as glazing techniques have improved. 

As with flat roofs themselves, flat roof windows (also known as flat rooflights) are never strictly speaking flat: they are either slightly domed or are installed with a slight slope, usually around 5°, in order to aid rainwater run-off. 

However, visually they appear to be flat from both above and below. 

Flat rooflights differ from roof lanterns which are more like mini conservatories, three-dimensional structures that sit on top of a flat roof. Both bring in light from above, but architecturally they are very different. 

(MORE: Flat Roofs)

Do I Need Planning Permission for a Flat Roof Window?

Flat or domed roof windows are, by their very nature, discreet and make very little visual intrusion on either the home where they are installed or on the neighbours. Overlooking also tends not to be an issue because the view is of the sky above, not the neighbours’ bathrooms. 

However, the current planning guidance seems to predate the current wave of interest in flat roof windows and simply says that roof windows should not protrude more than 150mm beyond the plane of the roof slope. On the subject of flat roofs, and specifically flat roof lights, the guidance is silent.

Whilst a protrusion of less than 150mm is easy to achieve with a sloping rooflight, it is more challenging with flat rooflights where it is conventional to build an upstand for the rooflight to sit on, in order to achieve good watertightness.  

Therefore any rooflight which protrudes above 150mm (and many will) will in theory require planning permission, although it is hard to see on what grounds it could be refused. 

If the work forms part of a self build or new extension, then the rooflight will be considered with every other aspect of the job. Indeed, if it’s included when building an extension, it would usually be considered acceptable under permitted development rights. 

However, if your wish to install a rooflight in an existing flat roofed area, and the protrusion is greater than 150mm above the existing roof level, then as things stand you should approach the planners with your intensions and ask whether you need formal approval.

What's on the Market?

There is a wide range of flat roof window options available at a variety of price points. 

The simplest are the fixed, domed rooflights with a polycarbonate cover, costing just a couple of hundred pounds. At the other end of the spectrum, there are bespoke glazing solutions that you can walk on, costing as much as a new car. 

Flat roof windows can be fixed, manually opening or electrically-operated to open. The openings themselves can be either hinged or sliding.  

Are Flat Roof Windows Any Good?

Pros

Flat roof glazing is a brilliant way to get lots of light into the space below. It is said that you get around three as much light from above than you do through a conventional vertical window and there isn’t any time of day when you are not collecting that light. 

There are many modern designs where big open plan spaces would be dark and unwelcoming without overhead light.

Cons

They have to be carefully installed to ensure good waterproofing. This is normally achieved by building a small upstand which acts as a base wall for the rooflight to sit on. Whilst domed rooflights can be laid horizontal, genuinely flat ones need a camber to ensure good rainwater run off. 

In really hot spells, you can accumulate rather more heat than you want in the room below. There are ways you can mitigate against this, including fitting solar control glazing which reflects sunlight. It is best to limit the amount of overhead glazing to no more than 20% of the floor area you wish to light. 

Thermal Performance of Flat Roof Windows

The thermal performance of a flat rooflight is no different to a vertical window. 

It is determined by the quality of the glazing (triple glazing scores much better than double) and the way the glazing units and the surrounds have been constructed. 

Generally speaking, the lower the U value the better. Look for a U value (sometimes expressed as Us (W/m2K) below 1.5, which represents the heat loss score of a good double glazed window. Triple glazed windows will have an even lower score, below 1.0. 

How Big Can a Flat Roof Window be?

Off-the-peg flat rooflights are available in a range of shapes and sizes. Until recently, these options ran up from as little as 600 x 600mm to around 1.5 x 1.0m but Velux have introduced a Vario range which is modular, meaning that you can add extra units to make up your chosen configuration. 

The limitation thus becomes a structural one: how big an opening can your roof take and does it need to be re-reengineered or rebuilt in order to incorporate your chosen rooflight. 

There are also many niche players making structural glazing solutions, which can be used for walls as well as roofs, and once again, the same structural limitations apply.

Choosing the Right Size and Position for Your Flat Roof Window

The usual place to install an overhead rooflight is in a kitchen or in an otherwise dark hallway, where good quality day lighting is best appreciated. 

Popular spots include above dining tables and over islands or peninsulas in large kitchens.

Generally, it makes sense to keep any overhead lighting fairly central, unless there is a specific reason to locate it to one side. One stunning effect, only available from bespoke structural glazing specialists, is to run an overhead rooflight to the edge of a room and there to combine it with a vertical wall window with a seamless joint.

How are Flat Roof Windows Installed?

In a new roof, the opening will formed by the carpenters during the carcassing process. 

Details of the sizing and any upstands required should be available from the manufacturers, together with advice on insulating the sides of the opening to avoid cold bridging and condensation. 

Often there is a delay between the roof being formed and the flat roof window appearing onsite, so a temporary cover needs to be effected: corrugated plastic sheets are handy here. 

The roof covering material is installed over the upstand, before the roof window itself, so that the final waterproofing takes place when the window flashings are fitted onto the upstands.  

This work needs to be supervised by a building inspector: the alternative route to window compliance, using a FENSA registered contractor, does not cover new window installations, only replacements.

On the more elaborate installations, involving sliding glazed roof sections, it is recommended that an annual service contract is put in place to ensure that the mechanisms keep functioning properly.

(MORE: How to Install a Roof Window: Step-by-step Guide)

Features and Upgrades You Should Look Out For

Double glazing can be upgraded to triple glazing for a cost premium of around 30%: this adds thermal efficiency and a degree of solar control. In addition, you can add dedicated solar control, also known as low-g glass, which helps to control summer overheating. 

Self-cleaning glass is also a possibility. 

If you buy off-the-peg rooflights, then the various glazing options are available from a menu: Velux is the market leaders in this respect and its catalogue is something you will be referencing at this point. 

If you select a bespoke solution and work with the manufacturers or installers, you need to get up to speed about your glazing options. 

All overhead glazing is required to be toughened, but for those interested in walk-on glazing, the glass has to be both thick enough and strong enough and this is achieved by laminating several sheets together into one thickness. Walk-on glass can also be fritted to prevent slip.

The other major decision you have to make is whether to have a fixed light or to have it opening, and if opening, should it be a manual process or electrically operated. If you go for electric control, you should have the option of fitting a rain sensor as well.

Can You Walk on Flat Roof Windows?

Walk-on rooflights are something of a fashion trend. 

Obviously the glazing has to be strong enough to withstand not just the weight of a person but also heavy objects being dropped onto it, and the glass is often fritted to make it non-slip. 

Usually, it is combined with decking so that there appears to be a level roof plane.

How Do You Clean a Flat Roof Window?

Flat roofs are usually accessible from the ground via a ladder or from a window and generally flat roofs provide a safe working platform. External cleaning and maintenance is therefore fairly easy to achieve, as they simply require an occasional wash and window cleaners are well used to them. 

Internally, access can be more challenging and may require a step ladder. On the other hand, there isn’t very much to make the internal glass dirty and cleaning is needed only very occasionally. 

Concrete roof tiles have not got a great reputation amongst self builders and renovators. Often seen as inferior to clay roof tiles in terms of their appearance and performance and something to be replaced as swiftly as possible when renovating a house. 

However, what many people don't realise is just how far they have come in the last decade or two. Their durability has been improved and, in some cases, their appearance is a strong contender to their clay counterparts too. 

Are Concrete Roof Tiles Any Good?

Concrete roof tiles are made using a combination of sand, cement and water. Their shape and strength is ensured thanks to a manufacturing process which involves heating the tiles within moulds and exposing them to high pressure. 

Just as with clay tiles, the quality of concrete tiles very much depends on where you source them and, in many cases, what you are willing to pay. At the cheapest end of the market lie tiles that are obviously concrete, painted with a coating to make them look like something else (usually clay or slate). These poor quality versions are often prone to fading and damage.

However, if you are willing to pay a little more, concrete tiles can be very convincing in their appearance, with plenty of texture and a good depth of colour. 

(MORE: Roof Coverings)

How Much do Concrete Roof Tiles Cost?

The cost of tiling a roof will vary depending on many factors, such as where in the country you live and the style and quality of the tile you opt for. 

You will need to factor in labour and fixing as well as the tiles when working out your costs. 

Interlocking concrete tiles will work out cheaper than plain concrete tiles and prices per tile can be as low as 34p (excluding VAT). Of course that price does not include fixings or labour and in order to get an idea of how much your final costs will be you will need to work out how many tiles you will need — not forgetting wastage. 

(MORE: Cost of Tiling a Roof)

The Difference Between Concrete and Clay Roof Tiles

There is no getting away from the fact that clay is one of the oldest roofing materials out there — some examples date back as far as 10,000 BC. 

Clay is durable and incredibly long lasting — making the initial cost outlay pretty effective if you look at it across their lifetime. 

Being a natural material, clay is also full of character and texture — plus it can be moulded into all kinds of shapes and styles before it is baked. Add to that the fact that it can withstand a good deal of adverse weather and is a fairly good insulator to boot and it isn't hard to see why it remains such a popular roof tile material.  In fact, in certain areas, planners will insist on clay roof tiles being used. 

Unlike clay, concrete roof tiles are manmade and their character relies on the manufacturing process as opposed to any inherent natural beauty. And whilst concrete can look very similar to clay, the colour of concrete can tend to fade over time — although both clay and concrete tiles have similar life spans. 

Why Choose Concrete Roof Tiles?

One of the main benefits of concrete roof tiles is their price tag. On average, concrete roof tiles work out to be roughly 20% cheaper than machine made clay versions. However, there are other benefits too: 

• Unlike clay, that can, in very cold temperatures, crack or shatter, concrete tends to hold up better in extreme weather conditions. So, if you live in an exposed area that is prone to frequent cold snaps this may be worth considering
• For those aiming for a very crisp, uniform appearance when it comes to their roof covering, the that fact that concrete does not have quite the same natural variations in tone and texture as clay could be a good thing
• Concrete resists damage due to impacts well — a useful quality for roof tiles which can, over time, become dislodged and fall or get knocked by falling branches and so on
• Concrete tiles are hard-wearing and have good longevity — there are good examples of homes in the UK that have concrete roof tiles dating way back that still look good. The lifespan tends to be between 35 and 50 years
• Concrete roof tiles can be used on roofs with lower pitches than clay — some can be installed on pitches lower than 15˚
• They can be supplied as interlocking tiles — where they simply 'click' together for a quick and secure fix. This is good for those looking to keep installation costs and times down.

How to Choose Concrete Roof Tiles

There are several factors to consider when choosing concrete roof tiles, including the style of your house, the shape of your roof, your budget and your roof pitch. 

Firstly, think about shape. Large format tiles are quick and therefore often cheaper to install but when it comes to concrete tiles they are less likely to look like convincing clay replicas than smaller versions. 

S-shaped pantiles and Roman tiles, with alternative flat and curved sections, tend to look more attractive in appearance. 

You will also have the choice between plain and interlocking tiles. Plain roof tiles are simple and rectangular in shape and tend to be smaller than interlocking tiles. They are laid 'double-lapped' and are good for those after an attractive, traditional look — though they are more costly than interlocking. 

Interlocking tiles are shaped to fit together tightly so only a single lap is needed. They tend to be larger than plain tiles, meaning fewer are needed to cover a roof. 

You will also need to take your roof pitch into consideration when choosing concrete tiles. Check the minimum pitch which the tiles can be laid before selecting. 

Finally, do bear in mind that concrete tiles tend to be heavier than clay — your roof structure will need to be suitably strong in order to take their weight so talk this through with your roofer or builder. 

How Long Will Concrete Roof Tiles Last?

Assuming they are properly laid and maintained, concrete roof tiles can be expected to last 50-60 years — comparable with clay roof tiles in fact. However, it is important to remember that, depending on the underlay you have chosen, this may well require replacement sooner than the tiles. 

It might also be the case that, even where concrete roof tiles are still structurally sound, their colour may fade over the years. 

The average timescale that manufacturers tend to guarantee their concrete roof tiles for is 30 years.

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Planning a flat roof single storey extension? Look no further, we give you the very best ways to get the design right, from super stylish roof lanterns that will flood the space with natural light, to roof coverings that become an extension of your garden space. 

1. Invest in a Beautiful Roof Lantern

Building a flat roof single storey extension presents the perfect opportunity for incorporating a roof lantern into your home design. Roof lanterns look great both from the inside as well as from outside and can be as simple or as elaborate as you wish.

Light brought in from above is completely different from that coming in through standard windows, being very clear and bright and installing a roof lantern overcomes all kinds of potential overlooking issues that may otherwise rear their heads when extending.

Choose a design with a slimline profile to allow maximum light to enter the space below. Aluminium is a great material for the frame, being lightweight and maintenance free. 

2. Create a Green Roof 

Green roofs have some great benefits. They provide a level of insulation that can help to cool a building in summer, absorb CO2 and provide a valuable habitat for wildlife. 

Green roofs need to be installed on roofs that are pitched at no more than 30˚ so a flat roof is ideal and they really add to the visual appeal of a single storey extension. 

There are several different types of green roof, including intensive, extensive and semi-extensive, each of which has different construction methods and requirements. 

3. Build a Balcony

A flat roofed extension creates the perfect opportunity for building in a balcony to your house design — somewhere to step out and enjoy views, sunshine and a breath of fresh air. 

It can actually be quite straightforward to create a balcony on top of a flat roof, although in the case of old traditional flat felt roofs an upgrade is likely to be required. 

Bear in mind that the roof will be required to take loads not expected of it before so it is advisable to enlist the services of a structural engineer and qualified builder to advise on its construction.

4. Go Contemporary

Flat roofs suit contemporary extensions really well, providing clean, sleek lines, and are the perfect pairing for crisp render and swathes of horizontal timber cladding. 

Pop sleek aluminium roof lanterns into the mix and you have the perfect combination for contemporary style. 

5. Frame a View

Aluminium sliding doors fitted into a flat roof extension can really bring it to life, not to mention being the perfect way to create a connection to the outdoors and frame any outstanding views.

Combine sliding doors with a roof lantern in order to really flood the new extension with natural light — the space is sure to become the area of the home to which everyone congregates.

The Korniche lantern’s slimline profile and aluminium structure provide unrivaled light and elevation for flat roof extensions. Korniche recently won ‘Best Rooflight Supplier’ in the Homebuilding & Renovation Awards 2020. 

Unlike other roof lantern products, the Korniche uses no silicone in its construction or installation and can be constructed on-site due to central solid aluminium bosses, single bolt fixings, factory fitted Q-Lon gaskets and injection moulded seals. It can be installed in minutes and glazed in seconds. With various glazing options available, the Korniche can be constructed as square or rectangular in sizes up to 6x4m.

For further information visit the Korniche website. 

Want to learn how to build a roof in order to keep costs under control on your self build project? While it's not a job for a DIY novice, it could be done by a more seasoned DIYer. 

This step-by-step guide demonstrates how to build a gable to gable (also know as an up-and-over or duo pitch) metric roofing system. Either read the steps below or watch the how-to video featuring Mat Woodyatt, Training Manager at Redland Roofing. 

Tools You Will Need to Build a Roof

• Tape measure
• Chalk line
• Claw hammer
• Cordless drill
• Scissors or cutting pliers

How to Build a Roof: Video Guide

How to Build a Roof: Step by Step Guide

Taking on any DIY task that is beyond your capability can not only be dangerous but can also cost you more money in the long run. If this task is not within your skillset, then it should be left to the professionals. 

Step 1: Installing the Low Level Ventilation System

There are a number of ways to ventilate a roof, but here we demonstrate the installation of a combination of low level (installed at the eaves) and high level (installed at the ridge) ventilation.  

A rafter roll is laid across the eaves and is designed to guide fresh air into the roof and to allow it to circulate around the roof space to prevent damp. 

(MORE: What causes damp?)

Make sure the rafter roll comes out above any pre-installed insulation - if not, the insulation will block the airflow and you’ll get condensation. 

To install, simply tack it to the rafters, starting on the left hand side and working your way across. Avoid too much draping of the rafter roll, but don’t pull it too tight as you will lose the corrugated shape that channels the air flow.

Step 2: Installing the Underlay Support Tray

This is the second part of the low level ventilation system. It features an integrated grille to allow air to permeate while preventing debris from entering the roofspace. It’ll also prevent the underlay from sagging into the roof cavity, allowing moisture to enter and causing damp. 

To install, position the tray flush against the edge of the bargeboard and make sure the lugs are positioned centrally over the fascia board to allow for secure fixing. Interlock the next tray and repeat across the width of the roof. Trim the final tray to size if necessary. 

Step 3: Installing the Underlay

Once the ventilation system is installed, you can move on to the underlay. 

Make sure your chosen underlay system meets the Building Regulations requirements for your project. 

Place a batten along the length of the roof at the top of your underlay support tray and roll your underlay over the top. The batten will prevent the underlay from dropping in between the rafters and can simply slide out after the underlay has been installed. 

Start on the right hand side of the roof and tack the underlay into place. Roll the underlay across, ensuring that there is some slack in the system (a nominal 10mm drape between the rafters will allow liquid to flow away from the rafters, thus avoiding rot and frost damage). 

Depending on your ventilation system, you may need to leave a gap at the ridge of the roof to allow air to circulate effectively. 

Step 4: Measuring for Battens and Roof Tiles

You need to determine the first fix point on the roof for your tiles - that’s where the top of your first batten will sit. 

Find the hanging length of your tile (ask your supplier if you don’t have this information to hand). Subtract the length of the tile that will overhang the roof (to allow any off-flowing liquid on the roof to flow into the gutter). The result of that calculation is your first fix point where the top of your first batten will sit.

Next, you need to determine your top fix point - this may well be taken from your ridge system of choice (check manufacturer’s guidance). In the video example, this is 45mm down from the apex of the roof. 

Then measure between the top and first fix points to determine the space where you need to fit your battens. You should also make a note of the minimum and maximum gauge/batten spacing for the tile to prevent the roof tile from failing.

Calculating how many courses of tiles you will need

Divide the distance between first and top battens by the maximum gauge for the tile and the result (you may need to round up) will tell you how many courses of tiles you need. 

To double check the gauge sits between the minimum and maximum requirements, divide the length between the top and first fix points by the number of courses (determined by the previous calculation). This should be somewhere between the minimum and maximum requirements.

Repeat the process on the other side of the roof.

Mark out the fix points on the left and right sides of the roof and use the chalk line to ensure a straight line across the roof. This will be the guide for where the top of each batten should sit. 

Step 5: Installing the Battens

Make sure you use the right size timber battens for your roof tiles (do check with your supplier if you are unsure). Line up the top of the batten with your chalk line and fix with a nail to every rafter across the length of the roof. 

Start at the first fix point and repeat, but leave off the final batten for the time being (this will need to be installed after your ridge batten and over your ridge batten straps.  

Next, it’s time for batten straps for the top batten. Fold them into shape away from the roof rather than shaping them over the batten at the ridge for the best fit. 

Check with your supplier for the height needed for your ridge batten. Fix the ridge batten in place with your batten strap and repeat along the length of the roof, fixing to the rafters as you go.

Then fix your top batten over the batten straps to hold the ridge secure. This is a crucial step to avoid serious roof failure.

Step 6: Laying the Tiles

Lay your first course of tiles in its entirety across the roof. May sure you have a minimum of one fixing (nail or clip) per tile and two fixings per tile around the perimeters. Tile from right to left (based on the interlock of the tile). 

Install your eaves to ridge closure system. This is installed over the edge of the tile and is simply screwed into the bargeboard or fixed with a clip to the top of the fascia. 

Finish off by installing the verge units as per the manufacturer’s instructions 

Step 7: Installing the Roof Ridge

Lay your breathable ridge membrane in a straight lines across the ridge batten, fixing under the verge system and one end of the roof, before rolling out. 

Once secured all the way along the ridge, it’s time to screw the ridge tiles to the ridge batten. 

Between the ridge tiles, install a ridge-to-ridge seal to offer a mechanical fix and extra strength to the ridge.  

Replacing roof tiles is the DIY task that homeowners most wish they could do, new research shows.

MyJobQuote.co.uk surveyed 1,828 people who attempted various DIY jobs during lockdown, and asked them which DIY skills they most wish they had.

According to the survey, homeowners have been brushing up on their DIY knowledge during lockdown, especially those renovating a house or making home improvements, and many also wish their skill sets were wider. 

A total of 81% said they wish they could replace their own tiles but found that, given the physically demanding nature and safety concerns associated with working on the roof, it was a task best left to the professionals. 

The researchers then compared the mentioned DIY tasks with the approximate views of the relevant how to videos on YouTube. 

Video guides for replacing roof tiles received approximately 2,342,000 views, the lowest number of the top 10 DIY tasks people wished they could do.

The most-searched how video tutorial on YouTube was how to lay hardwood/laminate or vinyl flooring, which received a staggering 34.2m views (52% of respondents wished they could do this task).

(MORE: How to Lay Laminate Flooring)

Which Other DIY Skills do People Want?

The next most popular DIY skills people wished they had were: 

• 75% wanted to know how to carry out plumbing tasks - including how to deal with heavy pipes, water supply lines, burst pipes and water damage
• 69% wanted to learn how to pave a driveway
• 64% wanted to know about window installation, and the processes involved such as weather stripping, gaskets and caulking
• 58% wanted to learn about bricklaying
• 47% were interested in learning how to do plastering (47%)
• 43% wanted to learn how to fit decking in their garden. 

Commenting on the research, Robby Du Toit, managing director of Sellhousefast.uk, said: “DIY has seen an unprecedented boom during lockdown. The spare time has afforded people the ability to explore the parts of the home they would like to revamp and consequently, taken the necessary steps to make that happen on their own. 

"But in doing so, have concluded they don’t have all the necessary expertise or experience to do up certain bits of their home.”

While DIY can be a budget-smart option when undertaking home improvements, if you are in any doubt about your skill set or ability to complete the task effectively, then it is best to leave it to a professional.

(MORE: DIY: What to Leave to the Professionals)

While you may think a zinc roof is a contemporary roofing material, it’s actually been used to top buildings for the better part of 200 years. However, there’s still a lot to consider before specifying a zinc roof, including the finish, maintenance, service life and cost.

(MORE: Roof coverings: What are the options?)

Zinc Roof Options

“Zinc comes from many sources all over the world,” says David Boyton from Rheinzink. “The main mining areas are Canada, Russia, Australia, US and Peru.” The raw material is processed into flat sheets and typically supplied to the UK market in coiled [rolled] form.

One of the beauties of zinc is the sheer array of colours and finishes it is available in. It’s worth spending plenty of time discussing roof design ideas with your architectural designer and supplier during the design phase of your project. 

Natural zinc, for instance, features a shiny, metallic surface that develops a patina over time. 

However, pre-patinated products such as VMZinc’s Azengar provide a smooth, matt surface. Roller-applied textures can also be incorporated at the fabrication stage, creating attractive textured finishes including grooves, ripples and even fish scales. 

Pre-pigmented varieties mean you can specify a zinc roof in an array of shades, too, including warm red, rust orange or rich purple, to name a few.

In terms of fixing methods, the most common type of application for a zinc roof is a standing seam roof. Shingle systems (small individual metal sheets) are available too, for a different aesthetic.

Advantages of Zinc Roofs

Zinc roofs come with a raft of advantages:

• Longevity: "Providing your roof is properly installed and detailed, zinc could offer a service life of between 60 and 100 years," says Trevor Corser from JTC Roofing Contractors
• Corrosion-resistant: “Zinc roofs are extremely corrosion-resistant, too, and unlike other metal roofs they are self-healing. This means that any scratches on the surface will recover on their own over time,” says Trevor.
• A good match: From an aesthetic perspective, zinc roofs blend well with slate roof coverings and are also an excellent solution for agricultural-style buildings.
• Malleable: As a relatively thin building material (usually just 0.7mm), zinc can be shaped to follow interesting curves and angles, while still retaining its durability.
• Quick to install is another benefit of installing a zinc roof system.
• Low maintenance is also among zinc’s advantages. Aside from ensuring the roof is free from fallen debris such as leaves, little upkeep is required. 
• Zinc is 100% recyclable and environmentally friendly. Zinc takes less energy to produce than other metal roofing solutions because of its lower melting point. This means less energy is required to convert the raw material into a usable form.
• Zinc is also weather-proof and is not degraded by UV light. 

How Long Do Zinc Roofs Last?

To ensure your zinc roof offers maximum longevity, correct installation and detailing is vital. Careful specification of the entire exterior materials palette is key. 

“Zinc doesn’t react well to the water runoff from tannin-rich timbers such as cedar, larch and oak,” explains Sean McHugh, sales director at The Metal Roof Company. To avoid corrosion or staining, careful detailing is required. 

“Alternatively, if you’re using any of these types of timber, other metals such as colour-coated galvanized steel may be a better option for your project,” he adds.

Buildings Regulations

From a Building Regulations perspective, the roof pitch of a zinc roof is also an important factor. “Zinc roofs require a minimum fall of 3° as built,” says Jonathan Lowy from VMZinc. 

This gradient means a fall of just over 50mm in every metre to create the slope. The issue with a low-pitched standing seam roof is the risk of water ingress at the seams of each strip, especially during heavy rainfall, when water can build up where seams overlap. 

To alleviate this risk on a zinc roof, a seam sealing tape can be used at the joins. However, this will not entirely remove the risk of water penetrating the structure. 

“In flat areas, other techniques, such as a traditional batten roll finish, can be used,” says Sean McHugh. “While there is the Code of Practice 143-5 and British Standard EN 501, manufacturers generally supply more detailed information when it comes to assessing the quality of the product,” says Jonathan Lowy from VMZinc. 

And in exposed areas...

Special care should be taken if you’re taking on a self build close to the coast, too. Because the air in marine environments contains a significant amount of salt, staining and corrosion of some metal surfaces is a possibility. Generally, salt deposits will be washed away from the surface of your zinc roof by rainfall. 

However, soffits and fascias will also attract salty deposits from the air, and the rain can’t reach these areas of your house to clean them. 

One potential solution is to use a paler shade of zinc on the roof so that any staining (which looks like white orange peel) is less visible. 

Alternatively, pre-treated types of zinc are available for these parts of your roof structure. You may even choose to use a different metal for the soffits and fascia. 

(MORE: Roof structures explained)

Finding a Zinc Roof Installer

Traditional metal roofing is a specialist skill, so be sure to employ a professional contractor who has plenty of experience installing zinc roofs. “They will be a registered member of the FTMRC (Federation of Traditional Metal Roofing Contractors) and ideally the NFRC (National Federation of Roofing Contractors),” says Trevor Corser. 

How to Install a Zinc Roof

Zinc roofing systems are delivered to site in coil form. “Your installer will have the specialist equipment needed to uncoil the metal and form it into roofing panels,” says Sean McHugh. “The metal will be uncoiled and passed through a machine that makes a small upturn (undercloak) on the edge of the sheet. On the opposite side of the sheet will be a similar upturn (overcloak).”

At this point, the zinc strips are then cut to length and laid next to one another on the roof, usually from left to right across the surface of the structure. 

“They are seamed together, usually by hand, using crimping irons,” says Sean. “This technique of creating a small raised seam gives the process its name — standing seam metal roofing.” The newly formed sheets are known in the industry as ‘trays’. 

The clip fixings are hidden from view and are normally screwed or nailed into the substrate below the metal layer. Trays larger than 1.5m require a combination of fixed and sliding clips to allow for thermal movement. 

Keep the roof structure dry: Prior to delivery, it’s vital that the roof structure is kept dry. If moisture builds up in the roof and is not allowed to dry out, this can lead to corrosion on the underside of your zinc roof after the metal is laid. The risk of this happening is increased if you’ve chosen to use a warm roof construction. 

For heritage or flat roof projects a batten roll method, where (generally) wooden battens are fixed to the plywood or timber roof substrate to form ridges, is a good alternative. Sheets of zinc are placed over the flat surface and strips of zinc are placed over the battens to replicate the effect of upfolds and crimping in standard seam zinc roofing.

(MORE: Insulating a Roof)

How Much Do Zinc Roofs Cost - Are They Expensive? 

Prices tend to increase for more complex installations where areas of the zinc roof structure are curved, tapered or have apertures for roof windows. Zinc roofs may also cost more for homes where access is challenging.

As a minimum, expect to pay £100/m2 for your zinc roof. The complexity of the roof, the location of the house and the size of the roof will all influence the cost. 

“For the installation of an average-sized home with a 100m2 roof, this would give a figure of approximately £13,000,” Jonathan Lowy from VMZin. 

Typically, this sum excludes elements such as the plywood substrate of insulation. 

Zinc Roof Alternatives

Sean McHugh from The Metal Roof Company shares his top tips on a selection of alternative metal roofing solutions:

• Copper can be purchased in a wide variety of finishes, including aged Verdigris green copper and bright raw copper. Once installed, the metal will immediately start to oxidise and lose its bright natural patina. 
• Coated aluminium is lightweight and comes in a range of colours. It uses similar installation techniques to zinc. However, aluminium cannot be soldered, which means certain installations may need to be approached in a different way. 
• GreenCoat PLX is a coated steel that’s popular across Scandinavian countries. It’s made using eco-friendly coatings such as rapeseed oil. It’s ideal as a zinc alternative because of its lower cost and similar installation technique. It looks very similar to zinc but can be supplied in RAL colours to match windows and doors. 

(MORE: Ultimate Guide to Roofs)

A slate roof is a popular roofing choice for many self-builders and renovators because of its impressive service life, excellent durability and timeless appeal. However, there’s more than just aesthetics to think about when it comes to installing a slate roof. 

One of the first things to check before laying a slate roof is the origin of your slates. Plus, with such varied quality levels available, how do you know whether the slate product is up to the task? Installation and maintenance are also crucial. So whether you’re choosing a slate roof for your self build, extension or renovation project, here’s what you need to know.

(MORE: Roof Coverings)

Why Choose a Slate Roof?

Roof slates come in an array of textures, thicknesses and colours, some of which are inherently linked with certain geographical regions of the country. 

Welsh slate is known for its bluer tones, while Westmoreland is celebrated for its green-grey hue. 

Natural slate can be cut into any shape for installation on your slate roof, although rectangular units are the traditional option in the UK. 

Imported slates offer a cheaper alternative for your slate roof, although units sourced from overseas have been subject to some bad press over recent years. However, providing you check your slates meet the required quality standards, they can be a smart purchase. 

Chinese and Brazilian varieties typically come at a lower cost. However, they have a very different mineral content to UK slate, which affects the performance of the tiles. “These slates are not suitable for some areas in the UK, mainly coastal regions, due to severe weather conditions,” says Rosie Connor, a director at JRC Specialist Slate Suppliers.

Spanish slate “When it comes to slate quality, the country of origin isn’t as important as the specific quarry you source it from. Slate varies hugely from quarry to quarry, and even between different veins of rock. The same goes for Spanish slate. There’s poor Spanish slate, and world-class Spanish slate. For the best slate, you need to find a well-established, widely respected quarry with excellent quality control, regardless of what country it’s in,” says Ahmed El-Helw, managing director at SSQ.

Assess the Quality of the Slate

Like many building materials, cost is a pretty dependable gauge in terms of quality — cheaper slates do not typically offer the same durability. “Look for accreditation — quality slate will always carry one. If slate hasn’t been tested to BS EN12326 standard and it doesn’t have CE marketing, it doesn’t meet UK Building Regulations and shouldn’t be installed,” says Ahmed El-Helw. 

Another key area to investigate before laying a slate roof is the rate of water absorption, where lower rates are better. “Regulations require that slate has a water absorption rate of less than 0.6%,” says Ahmed El-Helw. “However, that’s only recently changed. The standard used to be 0.3% or less, and many in the industry would argue this is still the mark of excellence.” 

Double check the carbonate content, too — slate that has been graded S1 is the best as it has a carbonate content of no more than 20%. If the level of carbonate is more than 20% it could reduce the durability of the slate. 

Installing a Slate Roof

Bear in mind that slate comes in a variety of thicknesses and textures. Therefore, it’s vital for your roofer to sort the slate into at least three categories to guarantee a uniform look across the whole slate roof. 

“The thinner ones should be used for the top rows of the roof, heavier ones for the eaves courses and those in between should be used for the central rows,” says Ben Fernandez, managing director at Iconic Slate. “This gives more weight to the bottom layers and the eaves course, which is more susceptible to wind uplift, as it’s the only part of the roof structure that protrudes from the timbers.”

An adequate headlap (the distance overlapped by three slates) is needed, too. “Different roof pitches require different headlaps, and therefore different slate sizes are required,” says Yasmin Herfegar, specification manager at Cupa Pizarras. “The lower the pitch, the larger the slates.” Installing a slate roof or those with a particularly low gradient (typically lower than 20°, according to BS 5534) is not possible.

A small gap of approximately 5mm is required along all the slates’ vertical edges to reduce the risk of water travelling upwards between surfaces that are close to one another. “All fixings must be non-rusting — copper and silicone bronze or stainless-steel nails must be used,” says Ben Fernandez.

You’ll also need to use a high-quality breathable membrane beneath the slates, and ensure that sufficient ventilation space is left between the boarding the slates are attached to and the insulation layer beneath to prevent condensation problems with your slate roof. 

How to Maintain a Slate Roof

“The amount of maintenance depends on the quality of the material used,” says Ahmed El-Helw. “Poorer quality slate deteriorates quicker and requires more intensive servicing.”

Check your slate roof at least twice a year for slates that are cracked or broken and need replacing. 

“On roofs surrounded by trees you’ll need to check for deposits of leaves, pine needles and excessive moss growth — preferably before winter sets in,” says Ben Fernandez. “If the deposits are excessive, they may prevent water running off the roof effectively.” 

Check the inside of your slate roof space for signs of damp or leaks caused by a damaged slate or one that’s slipped out of place.

(MORE: How to Repair a Roof)

How Much Does a Slate Roof Cost?

As a premium natural product, a slate roof isn’t cheap. “Roughly, prices range from £26-£35/m2,” says Yasmin Herfegar from Cupa Pizarras. Slates quarried in Wales, Cornwall and Cumbria can cost more than £40/m2.

“For a 150m2 roof, the lowest you should pay for budget natural roofing slates would be about £6,300,” says Ben Fernandez. 

“For a higher quality grade you would be paying approximately £7,800, plus VAT.” Factor in installation costs, too. 

“The lowest would be in the mid £20s/m2 for the whole roof, with the highest in the mid £40s/m2, based on a traditional method of fitting,” says Ben Fernandez.

Synthetic Alternatives to a Slate Roof

Manufactured to a uniform size, colour and finish, man-made fibre-cement tiles are an affordable alternative to natural slate. 

The consistent thickness and pre-drilled holes make for quicker and easier installation, too, saving on labour costs.

Concrete tiles are one option, but typically fade in colour over time, so will need replacing in 20 to 30 years. While they have a smart, consistent finish, they lack the charm and variations of natural slate.

Fibre-cement units have a rough, textured edge that looks similar to the real thing. “The uniformity of the tiles means that the time-consuming grading and sorting process is eliminated,” says Lisa Grosse from Eternit.

Fibre-cement tiles are suitable for roof pitches as shallow as 20° in locations of moderate exposure. “They are double the size of standard slates, yet can be cut down for details around valleys, hips and verges,” adds Lisa Grosse.

(MORE: Ultimate Guide to Roofs)

Flat roof extensions can often offer the best design solution for many different types of house extension. Simple, discreet and not adding extra height to your overall plans, they can also be more cost effective than other shapes or styles of roof.

That said, they aren't without their potential issues and are often associated with the risk of developing problems. Unless carefully designed and constructed they are notoriously prone to leakage and heat loss, along with defects like sagging decks, ponding water and prolific plant growth.

Thankfully such concerns can be dispelled by taking the trouble to consider the three main aspects of flat roof extensions: the structure, insulation and coverings. Chartered surveyor, Ian Rock explains how to make sure your flat roof extensions are sound, stable and fit for purpose.

Why might you a need flat roof extension?

In general, while you may be considering flat roof extension ideas as this is your preferred design style, they are normally selected for a number of reasons.

Cost plays a factor, as compared to other types of roof, flat roofs are relatively simple to construct, and require less volume of materials as they don't contain any significant pitches or slopes.

However, practical design reasons also play a major part, explains Jeremy Ashworth, founder and director of architectural practise, Ashworth Parkes Architects.

"A lot of the time we use flat roofs when we are creating a rear single-storey extension. This is usually for the practical reason that there are first floor windows at the rear of the house and anything pitched will begin to obscure the views from those windows."

However, if your property is in a more populated residential area, flat roof extension also have additional benefits, he adds.

"There are also sometimes planning issues when extending to the rear with a second storey as that may begin to overshade the neighbour's property. So we are only allowed to build on a single level, making flat roof extensions perfect in these situations."

Flat roof extensions and structure: How to get it right

Extension flat roofs are normally constructed like timber floors, in essence comprising a series of joists with a timber deck plonked on top. Obviously, it’s essential to get the size, type and spacing of joists right. (These can be calculated with reference to published span tables – see the Right Survey website.)

Building regulations will normally require a structural engineer’s calculations to demonstrate that the completed structure will be able to support the various loadings and resist wind uplift. The design will also need to accommodate any roof windows – where the joists need to be cut, trimmed, and strengthened – as well as factoring in additional loadings, such as where foot traffic is anticipated.

Flat roof joists are conventionally cut from standard C16 or C24 treated softwood, or less commonly can comprise manufactured I-joists or Posi-joists, or even concrete block and beam construction. They're normally spaced at 400mm or 600mm centres and in most cases will span the shortest distance between the walls.

Where spans exceed 2.5m, additional strutting or noggins are required between the joists to prevent twisting. Joists are normally supported using steel joist hangers, or on timber wall plates, or on beams or lintels above openings.

Calculating the fall

All flat roof extensions should have a slight slope in the roof pitch, despite the name. Get this wrong and you’ll be looking at rainwater accumulating in puddles causing premature deterioration.

"If flat roofs are to work well, they have to have a slope, known as a fall, to shed rainwater," says Mark Brinkley, author of the Housebuilder’s Bible and an experienced builder. "The fall should never be less than 1:80 and preferably about 1:40. There are several methods of building in a fall to your roof."

The building regulations encourage a minimum fall of 1:40 (i.e. 40 units in length for every one unit drop in height) although the minimum fall required according to BS 6229, a British Standard for flat roofs, is a shallower 1:80.

Standard practice involves placing wedge-shaped tapered strips of timber known as ‘firrings’ along the top of horizontal joists. For consistency it’s best to get your timber supplier to pre-cut these (for a small fee). Of course there’s nothing to stop you placing the firrings at right angles running across the tops of the joists, although this can potentially lead to localised weakness where they’re a bit on the thin side.

There are other ways you can go about achieving a suitable slope. Probably the simplest method is to position the joists at the required slope in the first instance. But this means your ceiling will also slope, which arguably can make the extension feel more like a lean to extension than a flat roof one.

If you’ve got a fairly simple rectangular extension, another option is to use ready-made tapered insulation boards with a built-in slope designed to be laid on top of the joists.

Installing the deck

Whichever method you choose, once the skeleton is in place the next stage involves installing the deck on top.

Traditionally this might comprise softwood floorboards with a protective coating of bitumen. Less happily, some older flat roofs used chipboard panels, now prohibited due to their tendency to deteriorate with age and exposure to moisture.

Modern decks typically comprise minimum 18mm-thick sheets of exterior grade weather and boil-proof (WBP) marine plywood, or 18mm oriented strand board (OSB) laid over the joists.

Other materials you can use include rigid ‘woodwool slabs’ (timber and cement based), reinforced concrete or profiled metal decking. Or you could opt for structural insulated panels (SIPs), which provide a ready-made pre-insulated flat roof.

Alternatively, if you want to defy convention the deck stage could be skipped altogether by specifying special super-rigid insulation boards designed to be laid directly over the joists performing the combined role of deck and insulation in one. An example is PIR rigid insulation boards faced with plywood.

Insulating your flat roof

To comply with Part L of the Building Regulations, a key point when it comes to knowing how to insulate a flat roof is that it must achieve U values of 0.15 W/m²K or lower.

Traditionally, in terms of the type of roof structure, flat roofs were constructed with ‘cold decks’, where the spaces between the joists were packed with mineral wool-type insulation placed above the ceiling, like a conventional loft.

With this type of roof insulation method it’s essential to provide sufficient ventilation to dispel any damaging moisture that gets in, so a cross-flow of air is needed above the insulation layer, normally via eaves vents.

Today, most flat roofs are constructed with ‘warm decks’ (aka ‘warm roofs’, where insulation is placed on top of the roof deck) which are simpler to build and are capable of achieving far better thermal efficiency.

Warm roof construction

The first step when constructing a warm roof is to seal it with a polythene vapour barrier membrane placed on top of the deck. This is to prevent any risk of moisture from humid air in the rooms below percolating through and getting trapped in the wooden structure. It also improves airtightness. The insulation can then be placed on top, for example 100mm-thick rigid PIR (polyisocyanurate) boards.

But there’s a wide range of materials capable of achieving stipulated U values on flat roofs, such as extruded polystyrene boards or compressed glass-fibre with interlocking edges designed to improve airtightness and structural rigidity.

Equivalent natural materials include rigid boards of wood-fibre or compressed hemp-fibre. Or, as mentioned earlier, special preformed tapered insulation boards can be used to achieve the required sloping surface.

One conundrum with warm roofs is how best to utilise the vacant space between the joists. Like a floor void this is an ideal space for running services such as electric cables, recessed lighting and pipes, but otherwise is largely vacant. So while it’s still exposed, before the plasterboard ceiling is installed, it makes sense to line the underside of the deck with extra insulation such as multi-foil. Or you could opt to leave the lower timber joists exposed, and apply the plasterboard ceiling a little higher by instead lining between the joists. To comply with building regs you would need appropriate fire protection for any exposed structural members.

Finally, before the surface roof covering is applied, it’s good practice to provide a firm base by boarding over the insulation, for example with sheets of 12mm plywood decking or 9mm OSB3. This, in effect, sandwiches the insulation in between two sheets of boarding, rather like a SIPs panel.

Types of flat roof covering

Weighing up the relative merits of different roof coverings in terms of their cost, performance and appearance isn’t always straightforward. But one thing’s for sure - workmanship and detailing are key to longevity. And the more inaccessible a roof is, the more important it is to specify a durable, long-life covering with a guarantee, because each time future re-covering is needed it will entail substantial costs on scaffolding and labour.

So saving money using materials with a lifespan less than about 25 years on areas such as roof dormers is likely to be a major false economy.

Torch-on felt flat roof

Modern felt systems are a big improvement on notoriously thin ‘pour and roll’ bitumen felts of yesteryear that were glued together with liquid bitumen. These modern felts are laid using a large blow-torch that heats the underside of the felt, melting it onto the roof structure below (it’s advisable to check that contractors are fully insured for work involving flames). Applied in layers, professional installers generally use more robust three layer felts which contain integral bitumen.

Torch-on felts are still one of the least expensive coverings, and being applied hot means they’re easier to form around penetrations and corners. Popular colours include green, brown, grey and purple. A lifespan of 20 years or more should be achievable if professionally applied and well maintained.

EPDM Rubberised Roofing

Widely used and easy to install, ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) artificial rubber is delivered in cut-to-size rolls with their own flashing systems. This can normally be installed in a single seamless layer without joins, so it should be leak-free.

It is usually bonded to the substrate with adhesive and, done well, can last 30 to 50 years. The material is lightweight, reasonably stretchy and very durable. Costs are typically around 25% dearer than for a quality felt roof.

Fibreglass Glass Reinforced Plastic (GRP)

GRP consists of liquid polyester resin applied to large mats of glass fibre to form a tough laminate. The material is lightweight, strong, jointless, and easily moulded, making it good for sealing around complex shapes. It has a reasonable appearance with a wide choice of colours, but is relatively expensive. Most fibreglass roof guarantees are for 20 or 25 years.

Other Single Ply Membranes

‘Single ply’ means any roof covering applied in one layer. Along with sheet rubber and fibreglass, the most common materials are PVC-based — Sarnafil being the best known brand. These have the advantage of being lightweight, flexible, resistant to UV with a life expectancy of 30 to 50 years, but are a relatively expensive type of covering fitted by approved installers.

Mastic Asphalt

One of the most durable and long lasting coverings, asphalt is widely used where flat roof terraces are walked over, often laid as a base layer beneath paving slabs.

Applied hot, asphalt can be laid on rigid structures such as concrete, timber and metal and can be worked around details like curves, upstands and rooflights. But asphalt is relatively heavy, with implications for the supporting structure, and costs around 30% more than a quality felt roof. The durability of bituminous coatings has improved in recent years with claimed lifespans of up to 50 years.

Sheet Metal

Cladding flat or shallow-pitched roofs in metals such as lead, zinc or copper was traditionally the most durable form of protection, but comparatively expensive. The metal sheets are laid in sections with movement joints in between.

One recent innovation is stainless steel interlocking panels coated to resemble zinc or lead, but genuine lead sheet is still the best choice if your budget can stretch to it.

Green Flat Roofs

Green roofs are rare on extensions because of their cost and complexity, but incorporating grasses, sedums and mosses can make a delightful feature.

"A lot of planning departments now insist that in order to help with rain attenuation from extensions that the roofs are planted," confirms Jeremy Ashworth.

"We either do this with sedum, a low lying succulent, or we have built roofs where we have more hidden structure so we can put more soil on the roof and have a greater variety of plants. This also has the advantage of making the view from the first floor much more pleasant than looking at a grey expanse of roofing membrane. You also must remember to install some form of irrigation up there so that the plants can be regularly watered," he adds.

However, along with the need for much stronger decks and special edging to stop the vegetation leaking away, this does makes a green roof a great, but expensive option.

Walk-on flat roof considerations

The idea of utilising your flat roof as a walk-on terrace can be very appealing. But it’s essential that roofs of this type are designed from the outset specifically for their intended purpose, and not simply modified at a later date as an afterthought.

Planning permission for extensions is always a primary consideration because roof terraces inherently give rise to a certain amount of overlooking, which can be potentially contentious depending on the precise locational circumstances.

A structural engineer will then need to calculate all the loadings, including the additional weight of heavy-duty deck coverings. They will need to consider the maximum number of people likely to utilise the new terrace along with possible extra weight of garden furniture etc, as well as seasonal factors such as snow loads.

Compared to a standard flat roof, walk-on roofs typically require larger C24 timber joists spaced closer together (e.g. at 400mm centres) or with additional support at mid span from internal beams etc. For larger terraces concrete beam and block construction is likely to be a better option.

The surface floor finish will need to withstand friends and family traipsing around in a variety of footwear, some with the potential to puncture conventional materials. Purpose-made paving slabs can be specified to provide a suitably robust and weather-resistant floor surface. Some materials such as lightweight porcelain tiles can be laid on pads rather than fully bonded to allow water to flow beneath them (although there’s a potential risk of hidden blockages developing over time).

The extension design will of course need to allow for a suitable exterior door opening to provide access, taking into account issues such as security, glazing and thermal efficiency. Finally, the design needs to provide suitable protection from falling, e.g. in the form of parapet walls or balcony railings. To comply with building regulations, normally at least 1100mm high above the floor surface.

Flat roof costs

Approximate material costs per square metre are as follows, but are for the material only and exclude labour and any items such as scaffolding, roof structure and flashings.

* Excludes additional costs of upgraded structure, decking and detailing

Additional considerations

With all types of flat roof extensions getting the detailing right at junctions is essential to prevent water ingress and ensure longevity.

Junctions, upstands and cavity trays

Most types of roof covering membrane need to be designed to avoid sharp angles where the deck meets adjoining walls, and taken up the wall at least 150mm to form an ‘upstand’ above the roof surface. It’s good practice to fit lead flashings at junctions and to cover upstands to ensure watertight joints at walls and intersections. Also, where new extensions abut existing cavity walls, a cavity tray should be fitted in the wall to intercept and channel away any damp within the cavity.

Guttering

It's also essential to pay attention to the guttering. To ensure the rainwater is directed towards the gutters, the sides of the roof surface parallel to the direction of flow (i.e. not above the gutter) should have small raised upstands along their edges. Larger roofs sometimes incorporate internal outlets, but these are best avoided because there’s a high probability that neglect over time will lead to damp problems, even where they’re correctly fitted with leaf guards.

Flat roof extension checklist

As there are often key mistakes made during the construction process that can lead to long term problems with roofs, having a checklist to hand can help prevent future issues. When opting for flat roof extensions, make sure you've always remembered to take the following into account:

1. Ensure there is sufficient slope to avoid rainwater collecting on the surface
2. Avoid the use of cheap felt coverings which may only have a 10 year lifespan
3. Make sure the detailing at junctions is done well to avoid leaks and damp ingress
4. Check that there is adequate insulation to reduce the risk of heat loss, condensation and mould
5. If you are renovating a property with a traditional cold roof structure get an expert to check there is sufficient ventilation

FAQs

How can I make sure a flat roof extension isn't too dark inside?

Although flat roofs can be practical, if you are installing one in order to keep the overall height of your extension low, there's a risk it could create a darker space inside, both in your new extension, and in your existing home. So how can you prevent this?

Jeremy Ashworth recommends including roof lanterns or skylights/rooflights in your design.

"We tend to put rooflights in as close to the original back wall as we can so that the room behind gets a decent amount of natural daylight," he says. "Sometimes we trim these out with beams so lights can hang over a table perhaps, or we might hide them behind the roof structure.

"The rooflights also create interest on the ceiling and break up the relentlessness of what is often just an expanse of white plasterboard," he adds.

If however you don't need to worth within any height or planning constraints when building a house extension, you may want to consider these pitched roof extension ideas instead, or even these glass roof extension ideas which could still provide you with a flat roof extension.

When it comes to the roof, there are variations upon variations which can make it difficult to choose the right option for your project. Follow this guide for all you need to know to make the right roofing choice for your home, whether you are building from scratch, extending or renovating.

This ultimate guide covers structure, design and costs as well as advice for those wanting to DIY or repair an existing roof.

Choosing the Structure

When it comes to the roof, you have a variety of structures to choose from, including traditional, flat, green and curved options. Follow this advice to understand the pros and cons of each structure to help you make the right decision.

When weighing up your options, ask yourself the following questions:

• How much do you want to spend?
• How complicated a design do you want?
• Do you want to be able to use/convert the roof space at some point?

Getting the Design Right

The roof is one of the key external features of your home and if you get it wrong, the whole project will suffer. This is where pitch comes in and it will be dependent on the style of home you are building or renovating. Too steep and not only will the house look bizarre, but you’ll also be paying more in materials for the privilege.

Similarly the lower the pitch, the greater the volume of water collected and discharged on the slope so you’ll need to make sure your chosen covering can cope with the expected volume of water. When it comes to flat structures which are, in fact, not flat, you need to consider a very shallow pitch to allow water to fall away instead of pooling on the roof.

Pitch is also vital if you plan on converting the area created by the roof – too shallow a pitch and you won’t be able to make good use of the space.

A balance between overall look and practicality is essential here.

You have further design options when it comes to the roof type:

• Monopitch: Has only one sloping plane. Great for maximising space on one side, perhaps to enhance views
• Duopitch: A pitched roof of two sloping planes which meet at an upper ridge with a gable either end
• Hip: A pitched structure with slopes on all four sides which meet at the corners to form hips; may or may not have a ridge
• Mansard: A hipped or gabled option in which each plane is doubly pitched. Popular on properties in France and the US

Planning Permission

If you want to build, for example, a new home with a steeply pitched roof that will stand taller than adjacent buildings, it’s likely that you’ll meet objection from the local planning department. Seek pre-application advice from your local authority to get an appraisal of your plans from a local planning officer for your best chance of a successful application.

When it comes to existing dwellings you can make many changes and improvements under your Permitted Development Rights. Adding rooflights, changing the roof covering and adding dormer windows are improvements that do not normally require planning permission and as long as certain limits and conditions are met, you can normally convert you loft under permitted development.

Always check with your Local Planning Authority to clarify whether your proposed work comes under your permitted development allowance.

The Costs

The level of design complexity when it comes to the roof will undoubtedly affect cost. The simpler the shape, the cheaper the price. If you are looking to keep costs down, then choose a roofing system that can be assembled quickly to reduce a labourer’s time on site.

In some instances, it may be more economical to opt for an initially more expensive roof structure if it will allow you to easily (and relatively cheaply) convert the space into something usable down the line.

When it comes to your roof covering, again it will depend on the material you choose. Follow this guide for a cost breakdown. 

How to Build a Roof

While relatively few self builders will be hands-on when it comes to this part of the project, it is essential to understand how a roof is made, especially if you are project managing the build and employing your own trades.

Choosing Roof Slates

This is not an easy choice given the variations available, and it is worthwhile asking yourself whether you want your slate to be locally-sourced, and whether you want a natural or man-made tile. There will be different cost and maintenance implications depending on your preference.

Repairs

If you are renovating, you’re likely to come across a number of common problems that may have you searching for roof leak repair costs, from defective pointing, missing or broken tiles to sagging slopes. While surveys often identify defects that require urgent attention (to prevent leaking which can cause damage to the structure of the property), the need for complete re-roofing is comparatively rare.

This handy how-to explains how to spot defects, the remedial works required and the cost implications. 

Rooflights

Rooflights are reported to bring in around 40% more light than dormers. But it is not just loft conversions that can benefit from rooflights — side-return extensions, gloomy corridors and extensions to those awkward ‘middle rooms’ that so often suffer from a lack of natural light can all be brightened up by the addition of one or two rooflights — or even better, a continuous run of them.

The term rooflight can mean many different things including:

• roof windows
• glass ceilings
• lanterns

Put simply, they are just glazing designed to bring in natural light from above.

The cheapest option is rooflights that are operated manually with a pole. However, for only a couple of hundred pounds more you could upgrade to those with an electronic opening system controlled by a simple wall panel or remote control. Rooflights can also include rain and fire sensors.

If you are in a Conservation Area, a conservation rooflight (try Tuscan Foundry) could be a requirement. They are low profile and sit flush with the roof, so will not detract from the character of a building. Steel conservation rooflights in particular are a good option — they are designed to look like original Victorian roof lights.

Roof Lanterns

Sometimes referred to as rooflights or glazed ‘viewing boxes’ by the manufacturers, these are raised boxes or ‘lanterns’ which project out from the roof. They take on many forms — pitched polygons, barrel vaults and pyramids are all options.

They are more expensive than rooflights, but their cost will be determined by the material you choose, the complexity of the design, the glazing, and whether or not they open or are fixed. They offer scope for bespoke design — those that open out to roof gardens are particularly popular in high-end properties.

Roof lanterns are a good choice for flat roofs. All units can combine opening elements — hinged or sliding. They are most often fitted to flat roofs or along the ridge of pitched roofs.

Frames are usually made from timber or powder-coated steel, although PVCu (usually reinforced) is another option.

Lightpipes

Also known as sun tunnels and light tubes amongst other things, lightpipes are usually aluminium tubes that have a mirror coating internally. This makes them able to reflect and strengthen natural light, before it is brought into the room through a fixture on the ceiling.

Lightpipes:

nb. If you are planning on fitting one in a room where people are likely to sleep, be sure to purchase a model with a black-out diffuser to avoid them being woken up as soon as it starts to get light.

Choosing Frames

Take into consideration the material you have used for your window frames when you come to choose the frames for your roof glazing. Metal works well for period properties and barn conversions, but also many contemporary schemes (look at aluminium). Steel will often be specified for Conservation Areas and barns. If you are interested in timber rooflights, bear in mind that getting up on to the roof to maintain it can be a laborious (and dangerous) task. Consider instead a timber frame internally and an aluminium finish externally. Ensure that the rooflights you choose will allow water to drain away easily and consider weather-resistant flashing which, despite not always the most attractive option, is the best way to avoid leaks in the windows.

Which Glazing?

Your rooflights (like any other window) will need to comply with Part L of the Building Regulations and provide the required U value. New rooflights to existing homes should have a maximum average U value of 1.6. Choosing a low-emissivity glass, triple glazing, or a combination of 6mm and 10mm toughened glass with 16mm cavity will help to reduce U values. If you are concerned about overheating, consider solar control glass. It can significantly reduce solar glare too. Keeping your roof windows clean: opt for self-cleaning glass on hard to reach windows. It reacts with sunlight to break down dirt which can then be more easily washed away by rain.

How Are They Fitted?

A carpenter or roofer can fit your roof windows (from either the inside or outside of the house). Alternatively, rooflight specialists also offer a supply-and-fit service. In extensions, rooflights should be fitted after the roof is constructed. Where fitted into an existing roof, this should happen at first fix stage, before insulating the walls and roof. Rafters will not always need to be cut in order to fit rooflights, although in cases where they are you will need to consult a structural engineer. Standard rooflights usually measure 550mm wide.

Will I Require Planning Permission?

You do not usually need planning permission, so long as the work you are carrying out falls under Permitted Development. However, if you live in a listed property or in a Conservation Area, the rules will be different. If in doubt, check with your local planning department first.

The roof needn’t be purely functional — as well as a means of keeping your home warm and dry, it can be an architectural feature too. However, it is often one of the most overlooked aspects of a house, even though it is one of the first things you see.

Whether you’re designing a contemporary self build or renovating a dated, traditional-style property, these examples will give you plenty of inspiration.

1. Finished in Thatch

Thanks to its cottage design with brick cladding and thatched roof, this new home looks like it’s been standing centuries. Given the fire risk of thatch however, the house had to be built at least 6m away from neighbouring properties. The steep pitch with low eaves and dormer windows adds to the building’s charm.

2. A Butterfly Roof

Constructed on the remnants of the structural frame of an existing 1960s design, this home is one of four such properties designed in Devon by Mervyn Seal, which were dubbed ‘butterfly houses’ because of their distinctive (albeit asymmetrical) wing-shaped roofs.

Kaywana Hall was designed as Seal’s own residence and deliberately sited at right angles to the steep west-facing slope. Not only did this maximise the view but also ensured that one long side of the house benefitted from the southern sun.

3. A Japanese-Style Roof

With its two strong monopitch roof sections casting mighty angular shapes, this bungalow seems more Huf Haus than a 1916 bungalow hidden behind a new contemporary skin. The timber cladding and palm trees swaying outside add to the Far East feel.

4. A Bauhaus Home

Situated in an interesting settlement of a couple of dozen Bauhaus-style bungalows, this remodelled home now boasts a large roof terrace which is perfect for outdoor entertaining, including a huge party area complete with built-in speakers.

5. A Curved Zinc Hood

Topping a converted windmill, the new living space positioned on the top level of the structure has been clad with a new zinc roof, with a glazed balcony offering views out over the surrounding countryside.

6. An Origami Design

Perched over St Ouen’s bay, Jersey, in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, this stunning self build oozes contemporary style. Clad in white render, stone and timber, the flat roof takes on an origami design with varied slopes and pitches to cut a dynamic shape along the coastline.

7. A Curved Model

With its soft, curved roof referencing agricultural structures, you’d have never guessed this former Modernist self build had a flat roof and sat on stilts. With a little TLC, the new homeowners have done away with the stilts, building an extension underneath the existing building, and adding a two storey side extension all tied together under the new contiguous copper-finished barrel roof, designed to soften the harsh lines that Modernist homes can have.

8. Sloping in Style

Originally designed by David Levitt for Roger Rigby, a partner at Ove Arup, in 1964, Ansty Plum sits on a steep slope and features a dynamic sloping roof which perfectly mirrors the fall of the site.

9. Topped with Turf

In order to build an ‘earthship’ home on their Scottish site, the homeowners of this self build decided to use tyres with rammed earth for the walls and combined that approach with straw bales, an earth shelter and covered with turf. The green roof also helps to bed the new home within the surrounding landscape.

When it comes to the roof, it’s common to find defects flagged up in Home Buyer reports and building surveys, which have a unique capacity to evoke dread. Even straightforward repairs that involve working at height can induce bouts of financial vertigo, brought about largely by the substantial sums to pay for scaffold hire.

Fortunately, the need for complete re-roofing is comparatively rare. There are, however, potentially serious issues that routinely crop up in surveys, most of which require urgent attention to prevent leakage causing deterioration to the structure. Here, we explain what to look out for, the repairs required, and the potential costs* involved.

*All figures are provided as a rough guide, and will vary depending on location.

Defective Pointing to Ridge Tiles, Hip Tiles and Verges

Identification
Defective pointing can be identified by:

• gaps and loose mortar at the joints between ridge tiles (which run along the top of the roof), hip tiles that cap the ‘corners’ on hipped roofs, or to verges of gables or lean-to roof slopes
• slipped ridge and/or hip tiles
• missing hip irons (used to secure the tile at the bottom of the hip)
• leaks and damp within the loft and to the upper roof timbers

Implications
While relatively minor defects, they’re fairly common. If left unchecked, the ingress of damp could decay roof timbers. Storms may also dislodge loose ridge tiles with the potential risk of injury, too.

Remedial Work and Costs
Repair is a fairly straightforward task:

• Eroded mortar joints need repointing = £28 for one tile, plus £10 per additional tile (add £10 if a new hip iron is needed).
• Ridge/hip tiles which have come loose can be rebedded with a suitably stiff mortar mix = £36 per tile, plus £19 for each additional tile.
• Verges tend to need localised pointing up with mortar = £32 per tile and £13 thereafter.

Another area to watch is Victorian slated hipped roofs to bay windows which may have hip roll joints in lead or zinc.

Slipped and Missing Slates and Tiles

Identification
It’s not unusual to spot small gaps where one or two tiles or slates have slipped or cracked. In most cases, rain ingress is only likely to be a problem where several adjoining tiles/slates are missing (thanks to the courses of lapped tiles/slates underneath).

Most roofs built post-1950s also have a layer of underlay (‘sarking felt’) providing a secondary defence. Any wind-blown rain that penetrates under the tiles should be safely channelled down to the gutters.

However, older roofs were generally built without any underlay, and instead relied on a good flow of air ventilating the loft to waft away any resulting damp.

Implications
The odd dislodged or missing tile, is often caused by storm damage, or people walking on the roof for TV aerial/satellite dish installation. A missing tile/slate is not usually a critical defect, but repair shouldn’t be left for too long, especially on roofs clad with larger interlocking tiles (with less overlap), and on older roofs with torn, sagging or non-existent underlay.

Gaps between adjacent tiles/slates near gable ends or party walls can also develop where the roof slopes have settled more than the walls. Spaces of up to 10mm either side of each tile are not normally significant, as the lapped tiles underneath cover the gap.

Remedial Work
If there are only a few slipped or missing tiles or slates, they can usually be refixed or replaced fairly easily. On shallow pitched roofs (common on 1970s properties), the underfelt can start to sag, diverting rainwater down wall cavities. This may mean the lower layers of underfelt need to be stripped, replaced and rebattened.

Tiles can be prone to localised defects such as broken nibs. Even long-lasting plain clay tiles can eventually start to erode and crack across the middle or ‘spall’ in layers. It’s relatively easy to replace tiles because, unlike slates, they’re typically only nailed every fourth or fifth course.

To remove a broken tile:

• Lift the two tiles above it with wooden wedges.
• Use a bricklayer’s trowel to raise the damaged tile off the batten.
• Carefully slide it out.
• Ease a replacement tile in to its place.
• Hook the nib over the batten.

Slate is a very durable natural material, but old fixing nails are prone to corrosion. Old slates can crack across their width and middle, or even start to delaminate (flake) in layers, too.

However, because each slate is nailed to a batten, and slate sizes vary, they are more difficult to lift out and replace. Slipped slates can be refixed using copper or aluminium alloy nails. Or, if just one or two are loose, then they can be secured using small folded metal clips known as ‘tingles’.

Potential Costs

• Replacing a broken tile/slate = about £26 with £9 for each additional tile/slate.
• Refixing an existing tile/slate = around £60 for one to five tiles next to one another, plus hire of access equipment.

Note that small jobs like roof leak repair costs are likely to attract an additional ‘hassle-factor’ price premium.

Sagging Roof Slopes

Implications
Slight settlement is not usually a problem; it’s fairly common next to gable ends and party walls where the rafters have settled more than adjoining masonry. If the structure is satisfactory and there’s no leakage, a fair amount of historic settlement can be acceptable.

On the other hand, in more severe cases a structural engineer may need to be consulted and remedial structural work undertaken. These causes include:

• Overloading — ‘dishing’ may be the result of past recladding with heavier modern concrete roof tiles/slates without first making sure to strengthen the roof timbers.
• Weak roof timbers — rafters may have been undersized or spaced too far apart when the house was originally built. Or, they may have been cut (eg. for the botched installation of a rooflight) without the rafters being strengthened.
• Roof spread — the rafters have pushed outwards causing the top of the wall to bulge, which means that the rafters may sink and cause the roof to dip in the middle.
• Rotten or beetle-infested timbers — this is usually due to long-term leakage and poor ventilation.

Remedial Work
Overloaded or weakened roofs can be repaired by installing additional purlins and struts to improve support. This is fairly simple carpentry and shouldn’t be too expensive, providing that access is reasonable.

If sagging is due to settlement to supporting internal walls below, then the walls must be stabilised.

With roof spread, the ceiling joists normally act as collars restraining the rafters from pushing the walls outwards, so new collars may need to be installed or tie rods inserted through the upper walls.

Rotten timbers can be cut out and new timbers spliced alongside (or bolted with metal plates). The source of leakage must be fixed and ventilation improved to disperse moisture.

Slates or Tiles Nearing the End of Their Life

Identification
If 10 or more tiles per slope are damaged or missing, the roof is likely to be nearing the end of its useful life and will need stripping and re-covering. With slate roofs, look for similar numbers of loose slates that have been refixed with small metal ‘tingles’. In the loft, there may be damp smells and localised staining from water ingress.

The longevity of a roof covering depends on the quality and age of the material, and the degree of exposure. The lifespan of traditional roof coverings is generally superior to later manufactured materials.

Old tiles and slates can absorb water which then freezes and expands. White powdery salts under the tiles can indicate erosion and the projecting nibs at the top of each tile can break. In older slate roofs, the undersides of slates can be checked for signs of softening and flaking.

Implications
The need for complete re-covering is rare, but is a major undertaking. Surveyors can sometimes be guilty of erring on the side of caution, so get a second opinion before major works. The urgency of this task will also depend on the extent of the deterioration.

It’s worth noting that some roofers may be tempted to utilise inferior, cheaper materials when recladding older roofs. Like-for-like repairs are preferable on natural clay and slate roofs.

On 20th-century homes, asbestos-fibre artificial slates and tiles are fairly rare, but likely to incur additional costs for stripping and disposal.

Remedial Work
The roof should be stripped down to the rafters, new breathable underlay installed, rebattened and finally re-covered. With natural slate or clay tiles, it is often possible to salvage and reuse at least 50 per cent of the originals (reducing the cost of repair).

**Approximate cost including VAT.

Defective Flashing

Identification
Cracking can develop where roof slopes abut dormers, parapet walls and subsidiary roofs, or around objects such as chimney stacks and internal soil pipes that are projecting through the roof. The resulting leaks and damp patches can be seen in lofts, ceilings, walls and chimney stacks.

Lead flashings are very durable but can sometimes come loose. More rarely, old lead or zinc flashings may have split or corroded. Mortar fillets are a cheap alternative to lead and are particularly prone to cracking. Short-life tape repairs may even have been applied, or flashings painted to temporarily seal leaks.

Implications
These sorts of defects are a common cause of leaks in older properties or extensions of poor-quality construction. Over time, ingress of damp may have caused adjoining timbers to rot, and urgent repair is normally required to prevent deterioration.

Remedial Work
Such issues are not too difficult to fix, although replacing any decayed timbers will add to the complexity and cost.

Defective flashings should be replaced with new leadwork. Lead is the best material to use. Although relatively expensive, the cost can be mitigated by recycling the valuable old lead. Where a flashing has simply come loose, it may only need localised refixing.

Roofs on terraced houses can also suffer leaks where they meet at party walls. This tends to be worse where each house has a different type of roof covering. In this case, localised stripping will be required with the provision of sheets of lead (soakers) under the joints, or new flashings at parapets.

Replacing Valleys

Valleys are the junctions between two adjoining roof slopes which allow rainwater to run to the guttering. Valleys made with preformed tiles are relatively robust and any defective tiles can be replaced. Traditional open valleys have exposed linings which can, however, deteriorate over time. Furthermore, on roofs clad with large interlocking tiles, it’s also common for the mortar upstands either side to crack and come loose. They may simply need pointing up. Alternatively, valleys can be relined using preformed valley trays of glass-reinforced polyester.

With older roofs, replacing traditional leadwork with matching new materials is advisable. Although lead is a more expensive material, it’s worth noting that labour and access account for the majority of the job cost. To replace a defective lead or zinc valley on a typical Victorian slate or tiled roof:

• The old lining is stripped back.
• The timber base is checked to see if it’s in sound condition.
• The old lining can then be replaced with new strips of code 4-thickness lead turned back and raised up at the edges (maybe laid in several lengths overlapped by a minimum 150mm).
• A thin layer of fibrous material is inserted between the lead and the valley board (such as breathable membrane roofing felt — but not mineral felt).
• The lead is finally fixed in place with copper nails hidden under the overlaps.

Typical labour costs will be about £250, with materials (lead sheet and a few tiles/slates) costing around £200 — plus the hire of the access/scaffold tower.

Butterfly Roofs

Many Georgian and early Victorian townhouses have hidden ‘butterfly roofs’ with a central valley, or gutters concealed behind a front parapet wall. Being out of sight, they are prone to neglect, blockage and leakage.This often results in significant expense as they commonly require relining in new leadwork, with rotten support timbers replaced. Parapet walls above the main elevations can be prone to collapse and should be tied to party walls and the roof structure behind.

Scaffold Hire and Costs

The cost of scaffolding and access equipment hire needs to be added to the approximate prices for any of the jobs outlined in this piece.

• Scaffolding per main elevation/roof slope, including erecting and dismantling = from £450 for four weeks
• Mobile scaffold towers up to 6.2m high for small DIY repairs = £200 per week
• Roof ladders for upper sloping roofs = £70 per week

It’s important to note that the Work at Height Regulations restrict the use of ladders to light, low-risk work only — which rules out most roofing repairs on two storey properties or higher. This can make small jobs relatively expensive.

When adding extra space to your home, you not only have to consider how the new space will affect the flow of your interiors, but also how the extension will work with your home’s existing exterior. Your choice of roof design is an important element in how the addition will work with the original building.

Whether you want something sympathetic or to create an eye-catching contrast, you have various options when it comes to designing the roof for the extra space you are creating.

Here are some great examples to spark some inspiration.

1. Duo Pitch Roof on Contemporary Extension

Homeowners Charlie and Rose Thomas worked with architectural designer Charlie Luxton to design the contemporary extension that replaced an aging conservatory. While the extension features a modern steel structure and a large amount of glazing, the roof features stone slates to provide a sympathetic nod to the original cottage.

The pitch of the extension’s roof complements the original building, creating a sense of harmony between the two elements.

2. Flat Roof Extensions to Victorian Home

Nils and Lisa Feldmann added two contemporary-style extensions to their Victorian villa in Leicester. Both extensions feature flat, green sedum roofs that offer a striking contrast to the pitched roof of the original property.

3. Catslide Roof on Sympathetic Extension

Homeowner Helen was keen that the extension to her 16th century cottage should mirror the older sections of the house. By choosing a catslide design (where one roof slope extends down further than the other) covered in similar roof tiles to the existing roof, as well as complementary brickwork, the new extension fits seamlessly with the original cottage.

4. Monopitch Roof on Modern Cantilevered Extension

Paul and Elaine Haffey chose a monopitch roof for their contemporary cantilevered extension. The monopitch design allows for the homeowners to make the most of the rural views, as well as adding an interesting twist to the whole project.

5. Metal Roof on Single-Storey Extension

A tired 1930s property has been given a new lease of life thanks to a new side extension. The single-storey kitchen and writing room features stainless steel roofing that complements the composite wood and aluminium replacement windows and the stone cladding.

6. Twin Gable Design

This radical remodel and extension project has transformed a dated bungalow. The project features a twin gabled roof design to help create the space needed for the new storey, creating great architectural wow-factor when combined with full-height glazing, white render, timber cladding and slate-effect cast concrete tiles.

7. Unique Twisted Roof on Extension to Grade II-listed Cottage

In order to create the required head height for the staircase but also keep the existing window, a unique twisted roof was the answer.

While it looks like an impressive architectural gesture, it is also an effective and practical solution to the problem.

8. Winged Roof Makes a Design Statement

The homeowners of this traditional-style house chose to go for gold when they decided to transform their detached home by extending both down and out, introducing a flamboyant, sculptural wing-like roof clad in a gold-coloured copper alloy that would not look out of place in a modern art gallery.

Flat roofs are exceedingly popular with those looking to create a cool, modern home. Flat roof options help to free up internal space and are often cheaper that pitched roof options as they require fewer materials to cover the same roof span. There is also the scope to incorporate a green roof onto the flat structure.

What Pitch is a Flat Roof?

If flat roofs are to work well, they have to have a slope, known as a fall, to shed rainwater. The fall should never be less than 1:80 and preferably about 1:40. There are several methods of building in a fall:

• One is to set the cross walls at different heights. Most people shy away from this because they don’t like the idea of having an internal ceiling that slopes
• A far more common method is to use ‘firring strips’, which are battens cut at an angle and placed on top of the roof joists
• Another possibility is to cut a fall into the roof insulation, something several businesses now offer — it’s often referred to as tapered insulation

Choosing a Flat Roof Design

There are many advantages to using a flat roof:

• Frees up internal space
• Freedom to plan interesting shapes beneath a flat roof without having to worry about the way the roof is held up
• Immeasurable flexibility
• They help to keep the internal temperature stable
• With flat roofs you get none of the impression of bulk that you get with a pitched roof, but internal area is not compromised to achieve this
• Cheaper to construct than pitched roofs and need less material to cover the same span

How to Build a Flat Roof

How exactly a fall is built in largely depends on how the flat roof is built. There are three main choices:

• The cheapest and simplest solution is to construct a warm roof. This is where the roof insulation sits directly on top of the timber structure (thus keeping it warm) and then the roofing membrane is laid over the insulation
• A cold roof places the insulation between the rafters, underneath the ply roof covering. It is the standard method employed on flat-roofed extensions but it is rarely used for new builds today. In general, a warm roof is preferable from a construction angle, but it does lead to a higher roof profile, which isn’t always acceptable from a planning perspective
• There a number of variations of the warm roof, referred to as hybrid roofs, which introduce different elements. In particular, some designs call for a ventilation gap above a warm roof in order to eliminate any possibility of moisture build-up inside the roof structure

It is important that moisture doesn’t get trapped within the roof, which can happen from underneath if there is a pathway into the roof via air leaks around badly fitted boards or penetrations, such as downlights or pipes. Condensation risk analysis is habitually undertaken by designers to ensure that any potential dew point that might occur within the roof itself is eliminated.

In truth, it’s a confusing topic with claim and counter-claim often being made by manufacturers. Where problems do occur, 99% of the time it’s due to air leakage through readily identifiable routes, but however you do it, great care must be taken to avoid air leakage into the roof void. It’s no less important than providing a good waterproof covering above.

Flat Roof Coverings

Over the years many products have been used and none has emerged clearly as the best. In practice most people plump for the system their installer or designer likes the most. Generally speaking, the issues to watch are the cost and the guarantee offered. As a rule, don’t go for anything less than 20 years. Costs vary from around £35/m2 up to £80/m2.

Applied hot in two or three layers, it remains potentially the cheapest covering but there are several different grades you can specify. The best felt systems are now comparable with any of the alternatives but cost just as much.

Although it’s a cheaper product, it is built up in layers and this gives a more robust finish, more suitable for light foot traffic. And the fact that it is applied hot makes it easier to form around penetrations and corners.

Potentially the longest lasting, it is now usually used under roof terraces that will be walked over, so habitually it is laid as a base layer beneath paving slabs.

Widely used and easy to install, it comes on cut-to-measure rolls with its own flashing systems. It is usually bonded to the substrate with adhesive and, done well, should last at least 30 years. Firestone, the tyre manufacturer, is the number one supplier.

These use a variety of materials, of which PVC is the most common, but others are available. Look out for PIB, TPE and TPO, the latter preferred by people wishing to avoid PVC on environmental grounds and consequently popular in Germany.

They are usually fitted by approved installers and, more often than not, customers work with the system their installer recommends. Generally these are a little more expensive than EPDM, but with longer guarantees. Sarnafil remains the best known PVC brand; look at Bauder for alternatives.

Occasionally, complex roof shapes require something a little different and paint-on solutions can be used effectively where other methods struggle. Products like Kemperol have a well-deserved niche, known for their reliability and capacity to overhaul and repair failing roofs. However, on new roofs they are expensive. Fibreglass roofs can also be laid wet and built up with matting.

Replacing a Flat Roof

Flat roofs no longer deserve the bad press they have previously received — modern versions are much less likely to leak and better insulated than versions fitted to slapdash extensions in the 70s and 80s.

If your home does have a poorly fitted flat roof, its replacement will probably be much more cost effective in the long run, than repair. Find out how to replace a flat roof.

Beyond Flat Roofs: Green and Blue Roofs

The fashion for extensive green roofs growing sedums, grasses and mosses shows no sign of abating and, done well, they make truly splendid features.

However, there is a lot more to them than a ‘normal’ flat roof. They require a root barrier to stop the plants interacting with the waterproofing beneath and a flat roof in particular requires a drainage layer to retain water.

Coupled with some edging features to stop the vegetation leaking away, this makes a green roof build-up quite expensive. They also add to the weight of a roof, and may well require the underlying structure to be beefed up. Another function of green roofs is to hang onto rainwater and reduce the amount of run-off.

A blue roof is one that aims to attenuate rainwater run-off to prevent localised flooding. This is like a green roof on steroids and involves a far more complicated build-up. It is unlikely that self builders will be specifying a blue roof unless planners insist on such a feature.

The choice of roof covering can have a significant impact on the eventual look of the home. And yet, in the initial stages, much more attention is lavished on the layout and the external cladding of the walls. However, it is the roof that makes an enclosure into a home and the choices tend to reflect the region in which the home is built.

Of course, there are many forms of roof covering, from the traditional thatch to the more contemporary sheet roofing; not to mention green roofing, which is taking up an increasing chunk of the market. Nevertheless, for most self builders the choices revolve around plain tiles, interlocking tiles and slates.

The costs set out below relate to a modest L-shaped bungalow with a roof area of around 180m2 and with one valley, hip and ridge tiles, and a universal dry hip and ridge system. To simplify the comparison, the same clay ridge and hip tiles are specified.

The valleys for the plain tile and slate options are assumed to be lead, while the valley for the interlocking tile option is GRP. (If valley tiles were required for the plain tile option the price would subsequently increase, as each valley tile would cost around £5).

In Scotland, a layer of sarking decking is required over the trusses and beneath the underfelt, necessitating counter battening down the roof.

(MORE: Ultimate Guide to Roofs)

Plain Tiles

These are the small – usually 267x165mm – rectangular tiles that give so many country properties that distinct feeling of mellowness. Traditionally they were made of clay and they often had a camber naturally built into them in one or both directions, causing them to lie slightly unevenly. Modern versions in either clay or concrete can mimic this, but the older and more traditional tiles are still available — albeit often handmade and, therefore, much more expensive.

• Of the three mainstream roof covering choices, plain tiles, whether clay or concrete, tend to be the most expensive, and that’s mainly down to the increased labour costs of having to lay and fix around 60 tiles per square metre.
• The overlap on the tiles means that there is practically three times the amount of battening required and, while the batten itself is cheap, the labour to fix it is much more intensive.

Interlocking Tiles

This is the cheapest roof covering option and it is the one that many volume housebuilders default to for that very reason.

Once again, there are many versions both in clay and concrete with some that mimic traditional single roll pantiles, some that emulate (without close inspection) the flat planes of slate roofs and then there are others which unashamedly present a profile in their own right.

Just because they are the cheapest option, doesn’t mean that they don’t have a place in self-build, particularly where many infill plots have to fit in with existing styles and choices of materials.

• Each interlocking tile costs over twice the cost of a plain tile. But, at an average of 11 to the square metre, far fewer tiles are needed and the labour costs for fixing them are significantly reduced.
• The cost of battening the roof is also much less as the gauge or distance between the battens is 300mm or more.

Slates

The waterways and canals of the Victorian era made the transportation of slates from the Welsh hills much easier and their use and popularity grew. Today, they are still one of the most popular forms of roof covering, despite the fact that only a tiny minority come from Wales and the rest of the UK.

Natural slates are now imported from China, Brazil and Spain in colours that can closely follow the traditional, and much more expensive, Welsh equivalents.

Natural slates, like plain tiles, do not have any drips or contours and therefore have to be laid in such a way that every part of the roof is covered. This means that at some points they may be treble lapped.

Manmade slates are also available — those that directly mimic natural slates are no cheaper but are perhaps slightly more durable. Others conspire to look like natural slates, while actually being interlocking; whether they ever achieve their goal of looking like the real thing is debatable.

(MORE: What are the options when it comes to roof coverings)

Flat Roof Costs

Flat roofs tend to be priced on a supply and fit basis with some packages (e.g. single ply) including build-up, insulation, etc. as well. This all means comparing like for like is tricky. However, here are the headline prices for those wishing to put something in their budget at an initial stage:

How to Build a Roof

(MORE: Great Roof Design Ideas)