If you're in the middle of a renovation, you'll know how frustrating all the dust and dirt can be – especially when it starts being traipsed through your home while you're still living there.

But what if we told you there was a solution to stop that, and it would cost you only £20 from Amazon? Well, our content director, Laura Crombie, has shared the ultimate hack for doing just that and says it's one of the best purchases she's ever made.

To prevent the dreaded dust from spreading, she attaches plastic zip-up covers to her doorways, which act as a barrier between a room that's being renovated and one that's still being used.

The plastic covers easily attach to the frame of your door with duct tape, so there’s no need for drilling or screwing, and they can be added and removed quickly as needed. Even better, they can be reused again and again, as they can be wiped clean with a damp cloth.

While you can attach disposable plastic decorating sheets to doors you don’t frequently use, Laura recommends zip-up covers for areas you still need to pop in and out of.

While these plastic door covers will make a huge difference when it comes to keeping dust contained, there are other tricks you can combine them with to keep your space as tidy as possible:

1. Vacuum regularly: Investing in one of the best vacuum cleaners for builders’ dust is a decision you won’t come to regret. Use it regularly to avoid build-up and wipe down surfaces with a damp cloth.

2. Use an air purifier: HEPA air purifiers capture 99.97% of airborne particles, including dust, and will come in handy post-renovation as well. Our assistant editor Sarah Harley tested the Molekule Air Pro which removes toxins from the air.

3. Use dust sheets: Alongside your plastic door covers, it’s worth laying dust sheets over furniture and floors to keep everything protected.

Dust is inevitable when you’re tackling jobs such as sanding and demolition, but by putting a few preventative measures in place, you’ll help reduce the mess and chaos as much as possible.

Want more of our favourite DIY tips? See how Laura created a built-in pantry for under £350 using Amazon furniture or her £10 hack for painting furniture flawlessly.

While it’s very common to spot pigeon poo on roofs and it might seem harmless, it can actually result in a long list of problems for both your health and your home, as well as potentially stalling your renovation plans.

Not only can excessive amounts of pigeon droppings corrode brickwork and lead to drainage problems, but it can also become a serious health hazard if it is disturbed during cleaning or construction work.

To find out when it’s time to remove it, how to do so safely, and how it could interfere with your renovation plans, keep reading – we spoke with two experts to learn more.

How do I remove pigeon poo from my roof?

Removing pigeon poo from your roof isn't as simple as getting a bucket of warm water and wiping it away. James Rhoades, Founder of ThermoPest, advises that when dealing with a large area or an enclosed space, such as lofts and roof voids, professional treatment is strongly recommended due to health risks and the level of contamination.

"We wear personal protective equipment, use respirators, apply specialist disinfectants, follow controlled waste removal procedures, and sometimes employ negative air systems to prevent spreading harmful particles," he explains. "The area should be sanitised first to reduce airborne contamination before any removal starts."

When does pigeon poo need to be removed?

As soon as you notice a visible build-up, detect strong odours, observe nesting activity, or see contamination around entrances, roofs, lofts, balconies, or HVAC systems, James Rhoades says it’s time to remove the pigeon poo.

"We recommend removing droppings before any house renovation, roofing, insulation, or electrical work. Once droppings dry out and are disturbed, contaminated dust particles can become airborne and spread throughout the property," he warns.

Can pigeon poo damage my home?

Yes – since pigeon droppings are highly acidic, they can cause damage to your property if left untreated, confirms James Rhoades.

From corroding brickwork, metal, paint, stone, solar panels, roofing materials, and ventilation systems to blocking gutters and drains (which can lead to structural problems), pigeon poo can cause more issues than you might initially think. If this is something you've noticed, our guide on solar panel pigeon proofing will be helpful.

James warns that older buildings and loft spaces are particularly at risk, as you may not notice the damage straight away.

Can pigeon poo delay my renovation?

Potentially. If you have large amounts of pigeon droppings on your roof and renovation work is scheduled, workers may refuse to do the job, which could delay the project.

"Under the Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations 2002 (COSHH), construction workers may be at risk from harmful micro-organisms during property renovation," says Andrew Boast, Property Specialist at SAM Conveyancing. "Consequently, they are within their rights to refuse to undertake any work until the pigeon guano has been safely removed."

"We have seen projects halted because contamination was found beneath insulation, in roof spaces, or around ventilation systems. In some cases, timber, insulation, or ceiling materials may also need to be replaced if the contamination has been present for a long time," adds James Rhoades.

Are pigeon droppings a health hazard?

Yes, pigeon droppings are a health hazard and can potentially carry bacteria, fungal spores, parasites, and pathogens linked to respiratory illnesses and infections.

James Rhoades says they are particularly dangerous when disturbed during cleaning or construction work, especially in poorly ventilated areas or properties with heavy, long-term infestations.

"Whilst pigeons may appear as a nonchalant neighbour, what they leave behind can be costly to your property. You should take preventative action before the damage to your property becomes a costly repair bill," concludes Andrew Boast.

If you found this helpful, you may also want to read how to stop birds eating grass feed and why using mothballs to stop pigeons is a bad idea.

Spend a few minutes on any renovation forum and you’ll soon see the same pattern. Someone starts a renovation project proclaiming “we’ll be done in a few weeks”. But a few months later, they’re still living out of boxes, chasing trades, and wondering where it all went wrong.

In construction, we see this time and time again – perfectly sensible people underestimating how long a renovation will take.

The reality is, most house renovation projects don’t run late because of one big disaster. They slip because of dozens of small, compounding delays that weren’t allowed for at the start. And once you’re on site, time becomes the one thing you can’t easily control.

How long could a home renovation take?

As with any build or renovation project, timelines will depend on the extent of work involved and the condition of the property, but there are some general patterns that come up repeatedly.

A straightforward bathroom refresh – where you’re largely working within the existing layout, might take two to three weeks. That’s assuming there’s no major surprises and good coordination between trades. A full bathroom remodel, with new pipework, waterproofing and structural alterations, can easily extend this timeline to four or five weeks.

Kitchen renovations are often where things often become more complex. A simple replacement could be completed within a month, but most projects require alterations, such as moving services or upgrading electrics. In reality, six to eight weeks is more typical.

Whole-house renovations are on another level entirely. For a typical Victorian renovation, once you factor in structural work, rewiring, replumbing, plastering and finishing, you’re often looking at five to six months. And that’s assuming the project is well-planned and relatively straightforward. Introduce significant structural changes or extensions, and the work will take even longer.

The starting point is accepting that your initial estimate is unlikely to be accurate. This isn't pessimism, it’s realism.

Just as you would allow a financial contingency of 10 to 20 per cent, you should also apply a similar buffer to your timeline. If you think a project will take eight weeks, plan for ten to twelve. If it’s a larger renovation, with complicated features, the buffer might need to be even greater.

This isn’t about building in inefficiency. It’s about recognising that unknowns will arise, and giving yourself the space to deal with them properly rather than reactively.

What delays a home renovation?

There’s a common tendency when planning a renovation project to assume that everything will go smoothly. In reality, it won’t. On paper, a renovation can look quite straightforward. Strip out the old kitchen, update the electrics, fit new kitchen units, decorate, done. When you line up the tasks, it might look like a six to eight week job. But this assumes everything happens exactly when it should, in the right order, with no disruption.

In practice, this never happens. The moment you start opening up a building – especially an older one – you’re now dealing with the unknown. This is where the timeline begins to stretch and the following factors come into play.

Hidden surprises

One of the biggest causes of delays is also the hardest to plan for, and it's what’s hidden beneath the surface. I’ve managed many projects that suffered delays from unexpected pipework buried in walls to floor joists that have been notched beyond what’s acceptable, to electrics that simply don’t meet current standards. None of it is unusual. In fact, it’s completely typical.

You might remove a kitchen only to find the floor levels vary by 30mm across the room. This isn't something that can be ignored as the kitchen won’t fit properly. Suddenly you’re into levelling compounds, or even structural work to deal with the problem.

Services are another common problem. If the consumer unit or stop tap are in the wrong place, the trades, and potentially even the service provider will need to swing into action, delaying everything else that follows.

Even relatively small things like loose plaster, or walls that aren’t square will add time because they interrupt the planned sequence of work. Individually, these issues might only add a day or two, but they accumulate quickly, and the stop-start implications tend to compound the delays.

Pressure to progress and decision fatigue

When part of your home is out of action, pressure builds and decisions that should take days or weeks get compressed into hours. This is when mistakes creep in.

I've seen it countless times, especially with kitchen renovations. The old one is out, the new one is due, and suddenly there’s pressure to finalise details that haven’t been fully thought through – kitchen appliance layouts, lighting positions, finishing touches and so on. Decisions then get made “on the hoof” simply to keep things moving.

The reality is that rushed decisions nearly always lead to compromises. Sometimes it’s aesthetic, but occasionally, it’s something more serious, like poorly planned electrics or inadequate kitchen ventilation. And when decisions need to be revisited – which they often do – you’re not just losing time, you’re spending money undoing work that’s already been completed.

Trades rarely line up the way you expect

Another issue that catches people out is the sequencing of trades. On paper, it’s easy, one trade finishes, the next arrives. But in practice, every contractor is managing multiple jobs, and availability doesn’t always neatly align with your plans.

If your plasterer runs over on another job, your second fix carpenter gets pushed back. If the electrician is tied up elsewhere, your kitchen installation can’t be completed. It’s all a chain reaction. And if your project requires specialist input such as structural steel, bespoke joinery, or templating for stone worktops, you’re now working to someone else’s lead times as well.

A two-day delay waiting for one trade can easily become a week, once you factor in availability, rebooking, and the knock-on effects.

Don’t forget building control — if they are involved

Building regulations don’t usually cause delays, but they do influence what should happens on site in larger renovation projects. Inspections need to take place at key stages. Any changes to foundations or drainage and structural alterations mean work can’t proceed until these stages are signed off.

Most building control officers are helpful and responsive, but inspections still need to be planned and booked. If you miss an inspection or proceed without approval, you might need to open up completed work to prove everything’s ok.

Good communication with the building control inspector, and ensuring your contractor understands the inspection stages, will help to keep on top of the process and avoid unnecessary delays.

How to keep your home renovation schedule on track

When renovations run smoothly, it’s rarely by accident. If there’s one thing that consistently saves time, it’s thorough planning. This means having a clear design, detailed drawings, properly considered specifications and appointments made, well before work starts.

By being organised, the number of decisions that need to be made will reduce, alleviating pressure once the build is underway. Being clear about what you want allows trades to price and programme their work accurately, and prevents delays later on.

With these early decisions made, realistic allowances can also be made between stages, along with an understanding that not everything will go to plan.

If an experienced project manger were running your renovation, contingency would be built in, both financially and in terms of time. And when problems arise, experienced project managers don’t panic – they deal with them calmly and properly.

Most importantly, expectations are aligned from the outset. Everyone involved understands that renovations are inherently unpredictable, so when issues arise, they pull together, overcoming problems which would otherwise derail the project.

In my experience as a professional project manager, renovations don’t take longer because people are inefficient or disorganised. They take longer because buildings are complex, and uncovering that complexity takes time. The reality is that the more you try to compress a programme, the more likely you are to create problems that extend it.

My advice is to always allow yourself extra time and plan a pace where you can enjoy the process, rather than be pressurised by it. The truth is that a well-paced project doesn’t just look better, without scares or regrets it feels better to live in as well.

Of course, underestimating the programme has very real consequences beyond the project timeline as well. Firstly, living in a building site isn’t pleasant and when things take longer, temporary kitchens and bathrooms quickly wear thin.

Financially, the impact can be just as significant. Extended hire periods for plant, scaffolding or temporary accommodation all add up. Labour costs can also increase if revisits are needed. And if delays push you into less favourable times of year, particularly for external works, weather can become a factor too.

And this brings us back to decision fatigue. When projects drag on, people start accepting “good enough” so standards slip to get the job finished, something to avoid in your home renovation, whenever possible.

Well known for lurking in places such as roof tiles or under Artex, asbestos is one thing all homeowners want to avoid uncovering during a renovation.

Dangerous, often costly to remove and adding potential delays to plans, dealing with it usually involves calling in the professionals, throwing a spanner in the works for many homeowners.

And, just to add insult to injury, it can even be hiding in your home in unexpected locations too, meaning it can come as a shock when it's uncovered. Find out where it might have been used in your home, and what to do if you discover it.

Places where you might uncover asbestos on the exterior of your home

Asbestos can be found both inside and outside your home, and it's often uncovered during a survey, something that Homebuilding & Renovating's brand director, Laura Crombie experienced when purchasing her property.

"We were told that there was asbestos in a number of locations when we bought our most recent renovation," she explains. "It was discovered in a chimney liner, and the survey also revealed asbestos boards had been used for the soffits and fascias."

Along with asbestos roof tiles, it's not uncommon to discover it in the roof construction of older properties. But, where else could you uncover it?

"There are several areas in the outside of a project that may be an asbestos risk," says Jamie Gatley, owner of JG Asbestos Services and recipient of the ‘Trade Champion’ Award at the Checkatrade Awards 2025.

"As well as in soffits and fascias, where Asbestos Insulating Board (AIB) or asbestos cement can be discovered in the eaves, roofing materials including corrugated asbestos cement sheets (often found on garages and sheds), roofing felt, and tiles are often likely candidates," he says.

In addition, Jamie says it can also be found in the following places:

• External window panels: AIB or asbestos cement around windows
• Gutters and downpipes: Asbestos cement rainwater systems
• External wall cladding: External cement siding or panelling

What to do if you find, or suspect it, on the exterior of your home

“As an overarching rule, consumers should always engage a professional to carry out a survey and UKAS Accredited testing if they suspect any asbestos," says Jamie Gatley. "Attempting amateur removal is unsafe as any broken asbestos material proves a serious health risk.

“There are a few ways to recognise asbestos in certain situations, but it’s important to remember that you must engage a professional once you spot it," he emphasises.

"It’s worth remembering that most asbestos materials can’t be identified by sight - especially if you’re inexperienced. For example, asbestos insulation boards and modern fire boards can look identical. Proper analysis is always recommended.”

And, if you've found it in one location, it doesn't mean you've solved the problem, continues Jamie.

“As an example, corrugated asbestos cement sheeting, commonly used on garage roofing and outbuildings, is one of the most typical forms of asbestos, but it may be present in various roofing materials," he says.

"While some tiles may include manufacturer markings indicating asbestos content, these are not always visible or present," he warns. "A professional survey is key when it comes to identification.”

It's the accreditation of the company that is key too in order to avoid employing the services of rogue companies who may claim asbestos exists when it doesn't as a means of making money.

Cement pipes are also another example where you may miss the fact asbestos exists in your renovation, continues Jamie.

“Asbestos cement pipes have some characteristics that identify it as such," explains Jamie. "These include a grey appearance, rough or slightly fibrous texture (more visible on damaged edges), they are heavier and more brittle than modern alternatives and often have thick walls with a dull, chalky finish.

"However, and this is where confusion can happen. Asbestos cement and modern fibre cement can look identical to the untrained eye," he warns. "If you suspect asbestos due to one of these characteristics, or are working in an older building, it’s really important to contact a professional for testing and removal.”

Does it always have to be removed?

Calling in a professional for help and advice doesn't always mean you will end up having to pay the full costs for removal however.

“If removal is too costly, asbestos can often be safely managed in place using methods like sealing, or enclosure," confirms Jamie Gatley. "Sealing involves applying a specialist coating to lock in fibres, while enclosure means covering or boxing in the material to prevent damage or disturbance.

"This is only suitable if the asbestos is in good condition and unlikely to be disturbed," he adds, "otherwise, removal may be necessary.”

In Laura Crombie's case, while she did pay for an asbestos chimney liner to be removed she was able to avoid this with the roof. "We had a quote of £6,500 to safely remove it from the soffits and fascias with licensed disposal. However, a roofer recommended we clad over it instead with plastic sheeting. We followed this advice which cost us around £2,000, saving us time and a substantial amount of money in the process."

Places where asbestos can be hiding inside your home

The use of asbestos in homes is more recent than you might think, with a ban not taking place until in 2000. And, in 2024, it was estimated to still be located in more than 1.5 million buildings across the UK, with lots of those being residential properties.

As it was considered a general building material, it's therefore not uncommon for it to be found in several places inside your home, some of which you might not expect.

Asbestos in Artex ceilings is widely documented, but it can also be well hidden elsewhere as Laura Crombie also discovered – by accident.

"I posted a video on Instagram of us ripping up a vinyl floor in our utility room and discovering a hidden safe sunk in the floor beneath. Somebody commented about the flooring having asbestos which surprised us as we had no idea, and had already ripped it up.

"It turns out lots of vinyl in the 70s and 80s had asbestos, especially in the backing. It's generally fine, although the recommended advice is of course to get it removed in the correct way, and not to rip it up," says Laura. "It was a bit late for us, but it could be worth considering having some further investigations if you're renovating an older house with vinyl or lino flooring."

Jamie Gatley adds that bitumen adhesives under flooring can also contain asbestos, and AIB panels have been known to be found underneath flooring when it's lifted.

Where else asbestos can hide inside your home?

So where else could be potential asbestos hotspots in older homes? Jamie Gatley says the following locations can all be risk factors.

1. Locations where AIB might be used

• Around boilers
• Partition walls
• Ceiling cupboards
• Bath panels
• Behind fuse boxes
• Under floors

2. Asbestos cement

• Water tanks (lofts/airing cupboards)
• Bath panels

3. In electrical components

If your home renovation requires rewiring, which most do in order to adhere to current building regulations, you could end up uncovering asbestos in the process too.

It certainly came as a shock to me when I was showing a builder where to find the mains electricity meter in a property, and when he saw it, he told me to open the cupboard as little as possible as it was mounted on an asbestos board.

"One place people might not expect asbestos is electrical components," confirms Jamie Gatley. "It was widely used when it came to fuse boxes and wiring. Fuse boxes and switchgear can be mounted on AIB backing panels, and old wiring may have cable insulation containing asbestos.”

It can also be found in old electric storage heaters, so be sure to check with your electrician beforehand if he is capable of identifying it, and understands the necessary measures for dealing with it. Or, consider an asbestos survey across your whole home for peace of mind.

4. In loose fill insulation

Upgrading your home insulation is common practice for home renovators, whether you're switching to a more energy efficient heat source such as an air source heat pump, or simply looking to make your home as toasty as possible.

Loose fill insulation can also contain asbestos, according to the guidelines found on the HSE website, where you can also find this handy diagram and guide to potential asbestos locations in your home. It's worth taking a look at this prior to any major renovation project, even if your survey hasn't revealed asbestos. As experts and experienced renovators, like Laura Crombie know, it's not always as obvious as you may think.

FAQ

Can I remove asbestos myself?

“Although it’s technically legal for homeowners to remove asbestos themselves, it’s actively discouraged," warns Jamie Gatley. "This is because uncontrolled removal techniques and disposal could result in a breach of the control of asbestos regulations, even in domestic settings.

"Generally, only specialist asbestos contractors have the correct insurance, training and licenses to carry out asbestos removal works, even on materials classed as non-licensed.

"Alongside the safety risks of removing asbestos itself, the process can involve additional risks where pipes are located at height or within confined spaces (e.g. lofts, service ducts, or external walls). This is important to bear in mind if you suspect you have any asbestos, or if you are investigating or renovating an older property. It’s always best to commission a full, accredited asbestos survey before beginning such projects," he advises.

Renovating a home can be an extremely rewarding experience, but not without its pitfalls, such as the risk of asbestos. However, arming yourself with as much knowledge in advance generally makes the process smoother.

With that in mind, take some time to look at the renovation truths every homeowner needs to know, and for the best results, make sure you avoid the 5 things that can make a renovation look cheap and discover what you should do instead.

When we started renovating a Victorian house it was tempting to jump straight into the latest energy technologies. We considered installing a heat pump, solar panels, and all sorts of smart home systems.

As a journalist who writes about such technologies I wanted to practice what I preached. However, our budget was very limited, so we made a conscious decision to take a different approach: fabric first, technology later.

We prioritised insulation, airtightness and new timber windows as these were the fundamental measures that we knew would reduce heat loss. But, with old homes there are always compromises. These are the energy upgrades we deliberately chose to skip and why.

1. Why we decided against a heat pump

Heat pumps are often considered to be the future of domestic heating, and there’s no doubt they can be highly efficient when installed in the right conditions. But for us the timing and practicalities didn’t quite match up.

A ground source heat pump was never an option as we have a very small garden – a common feature of Victorian houses – so we didn’t have space for ground loops or boreholes.

An air source heat pump was a more realistic option, but it still came with challenges. At that point in time of our renovation we were already committing significant funds towards new windows, so installing an air source heat pump simply wasn’t financially viable.

Instead, we opted for a condensing gas-boiler at a much lower upfront cost. Because heat pumps are powered by electricity, with energy prices fluctuating there were also concerns about running costs – particularly in the context of global instability. We therefore weren’t entirely confident that the long-term savings would justify the initial investment in our specific situation.

We did however install larger radiators to allow us the option of installing a heat pump at a later date. Although we would almost certainly need to add further heat emitters to make a heat pump viable. But that’s a worry for the future!

2. Solar power also isn't an option right now

Solar PV panels were another upgrade we seriously considered, and, like heat pumps, it’s something that we may return to in the future.

Solar makes a lot of sense because generating your own electricity can reduce reliance on the grid, and help offset rising energy costs. But again, for us, timing, solar panel costs and practical concerns were the deciding factors in choosing not to install solar.

Once again, budget had the biggest influence and adding solar, along with the associated electrical work, pipework and integrating the systems felt like taking on too much at once. Anyone renovating a home is best advised to plan for your renovation costs carefully, stick to a realistic budget and to take a step by step approach, which will make a long renovation more sustainable.

We also had concerns about the state of the roof, because, as with many older properties, we weren’t entirely confident of its condition. The idea of installers working on it, adding weight, and fixing panels filled us with dread, so we put the whole idea to the back our minds. Thankfully the roof has been fine so far.

3. Underfloor heating simply wasn't practical

Underfloor heating would have been lovely, but installing a full underfloor heating system throughout the house wasn’t practical. The ground floor has suspended timber floors, which complicates installation compared to solid floors.

Upstairs, we did consider underfloor heating in the bathroom. In isolation, it would have been a relatively simple thing to do. But, as we were heavily focused on making the house liveable as quickly as possible, this was pushed down the list.

In hindsight, low-profile overlay underfloor heating systems, which sit on top of the subfloor with minimal height build-up, might have been a viable option.

4. Intermediate floor insulation was counter-intuitive

We decided not to insulate between the ground and first floor because we had installed log burners. We wanted heat from the ground floor to rise naturally into the bedrooms above, helping to warm those spaces. A strategy that's worked quite well.

In addition, there were also concerns about condensation issues, especially in the kitchen where warm, moist air, could potentially lead to problems if trapped below insulated floors.

5. An MVHR retrofit was out of budget

Mechanical ventilation with heat recovery (MVHR) is often recommended in highly airtight homes, helping to maintain air quality while retaining heat. But in a Victorian property like ours, retrofitting a full MVHR system would have been tricky.

Even with the improvements we made, making a Victorian house airtight is very difficult. Also installing ductwork throughout the house would have meant even further disruption, which while trying to preserve original features would have been virtually impossible.

6. A full technology overhaul wasn't suitable

Some technological systems simply wouldn’t have worked with our house, particularly as we wanted to carefully restore the house as sympathetically as possible.

That said we certainly haven’t avoided technology altogether. We’ve added some smart home devices throughout the house including a NEST smart heating system, a smart video doorbell, and sensor operated lighting in the pantry and the utility room to make access to these areas more convenient.

Shop for smart products suitable for home renovations

Renovating an older home is tricky, it’s always going to be about balancing your ambitions with your budget and practical concerns of doing the work yourself and / or finding reliable tradesmen, which is never easy to do.

I love sustainable systems and there’s no shortage of technology that can be installed into homes but you should only install what makes sense for you and for your home. Skipping certain upgrades for us, wasn’t about rejecting them outright, we may integrate some of them at a later date, when budget allows.

The energy upgrades we have prioritised, such as the internal wall insulation, loft insulation and new windows have made the a significant difference to our comfort and energy usage. This fabric first approach has also successfully moved the house from an EPC rating of F33, to around C72.

Nobody starts a renovation expecting to go over budget. And yet, almost everyone does. Not because they were reckless, or didn't plan, but because there are costs that simply don't show up until the work has already started, and by then it's too late to do much about them.

Keen to understand exactly where renovation budgets unravel, I called two people who'd been through it firsthand: Sarah James, who project-managed a full home renovation, and Katie Treadwell-Haas, who has been renovating her 1950s house room by room for the past two years. Between them, they had six things to say that every renovator needs to hear before they start...

1. Your builder's spec isn't always your spec

There's a version of budgeting where you get a quote, nod along, and assume that what you've asked for is what you'll get. But that isn't always the case, and the gap between those two things is where a surprising amount of your renovation costs can spiral.

"Generally a builder will price for the cheapest they can get away with," explains Sarah James, having just finished renovating her family home. "Unless you specify the exact spec and type you want, that's what you'll get. This is something you should consider carefully before getting your quote, and discuss with your builder what quality level they are going for."

In her case, that gap showed up first in the details – architraves and skirting boards that were functional but not quite what she'd envisioned. Then came the doors. The architect had drawn standard-width openings, the most budget-friendly option, and the builder priced accordingly. It was only when Sarah started looking at doors properly that she realised wider ones existed and that they would have suited the house far better, particularly downstairs. But by that point, the gaps had already been built.

"It honestly would have looked better if we'd had wider doors," she reflects. "You just don't know what you don't know – which is why it's so important to explore every option at the planning stage, before anything gets built."

The Takeaway: Before agreeing any quote, sit down with your builder and go through every line. Ask what brand, grade and finish they've priced for, and use the planning stage to explore all your options, not just the ones your architect has drawn up. The cheapest option on the plans isn't always the right one for your home.

2. Expect the unexpected and budget for it

While every renovator has a priority list at the start of a project, what nobody tells you is how quickly an unexpected problem can tear it up and hand you a completely different one.

Katie Treadwell-Haas discovered this firsthand when unexpected draughts from ageing windows forced her to rethink her entire renovation timeline. "Once we realised the windows were an issue, we had to rethink the sequencing of all the work," she explains. "My number one priority had been the kitchen remodel, but the windows jumped straight to the top of the list."

She got three quotes and the spread was eye-opening. The cheapest came in around £3,000 lower than the others but would have required Katie to obtain the relevant FENSA certification herself. "We ended up going with the more expensive option because I just wasn't convinced the quality would be there otherwise," she says. "If something needs to be done properly, get it done properly."

The Takeaway: Build a contingency into your budget that is ring-fenced for unexpected discoveries (not just upgrades). Before committing to any sequence of work, you should also get the condition of your property properly assessed so that surprises surface on your terms, not the builder's.

3. Check for hidden regulatory and structural costs before you start

Of all the unexpected renovation costs, the ones that arrive via a letter from the planning authority are arguably the most dispiriting.

"Initially, there was no discussion about a requirement for a bat survey," sighs Sarah. "If you live in our area, a bat survey is required if any part of the roof is disturbed. We were not informed of this by our architect, and the planning authority did not mention this until our planning had been in place for at least 12 weeks." What followed was a cascade of surveys, each triggered by the last – all because there was apparently one piece of bat poo in the loft. The surveys can only be carried out at specific times of year, and missing the window means waiting out an entire build season.

Asbestos is another cost that has a habit of announcing itself at the worst possible moment, and Katie Treadwell-Haas says it's something every renovator should factor in from the outset. Samples may need to be sent away for testing, and removal, if asbestos is found, can be significant. She discovered this firsthand when she had a asbestos survey carried out as part of her buying process.

"There is some in the house," she says matter-of-factly – a chrysotile tile beneath the stairs, left undisturbed beneath what she suspects is an original 1950s carpet. "It's not a problem as long as you don't disturb it, but at some point when we improve the under-stairs storage we'll have to get a professional to bag and remove it properly." She also had an asbestos downpipe, and her home's no-fines concrete construction brought its own structural considerations, including the need to angle-grind off old guttering before new PVC could go in. "Which is a great way to spend over five grand," she laughs.

The Takeaway: Older properties in particular carry hidden compliance and structural costs that no quote will include unless you've specifically investigated them first. A good architect should flag these risks early. If yours hasn't, ask directly. Missing a survey window can delay your entire project by a year.

4. Never underestimate the cost of the garden

"Do not underestimate how much extra you can spend on the garden to make it look as good as your house," says Sarah James, herself a garden designer. "You don't want a finished house and an unfinished area around it. Factor this in right from the beginning. The cost is the same as inside, and whilst we did budget for this, it is very expensive nonetheless."

The other mistake, she says, is assuming your builder is the right person for the job. "It is advisable to use a landscaper rather than your builder for the garden. This is often done at the end of the build, and the builder is in a rush to get onto the next job and won't spend the time required to make your garden look good. A landscaper understands drainage, the right soil for flowerbeds, and how weather impacts every aspect of the build." When it comes to the handover between the two, Sarah is unequivocal: "Discuss where the builder finishes and where the landscaper starts. These are important points – who is responsible for what – and get the pricing right."

The Takeaway: Budget for the garden at the very start of your renovation, not as an afterthought at the end. Use a landscaper rather than your builder for outside work, and agree in writing exactly where one's responsibility ends and the other's begins.

5. Write a Schedule of Works and make it obsessively detailed

If there's one document that separates renovations that stay on budget from ones that don't, it's the Schedule of Works.

"The most important thing we did to help keep us on track with the budget was to compose a very comprehensive Schedule of Works," says Sarah. "This was broken down into many sections and subsections so that the builder could put a price under each one. We knew we needed 15 doors, so they priced for 15 doors, the fitting of 15 doors, painting, hinges and door furniture. We gave the square meterage of all the tiling and how much we were prepared to spend per metre. All electrical work was included too – we had a very specific electrical plan drawn up so they could price off it precisely."

The value of that document revealed itself almost immediately. "They tried to charge us more for the electrical works, which is quite common," says Sarah. "We were able to refer back to the Schedule and discuss why the price had changed. It took us weeks and weeks to complete, but it was worth every hour."

The Takeaway: Write a Schedule of Works before you agree any quote and make it as detailed as you possibly can. You can use this as a reference point throughout the build, and refer back to it the moment any costs start to creep.

6. Know who is managing your build and what that actually means

There's a question that almost every renovator forgets to ask until it's too late, and it's this: who is managing your build?

"The builder will probably say they will manage it," says Sarah, "but find out exactly what this means. Do they manage every aspect of the build – all the workmen coming into the property, organising them all to arrive when required? Managing a build requires a huge amount of organisation. You can also get a professional property manager in to manage the build for you, but still be prepared for many questions to come your way."

It's worth being honest with yourself about how much time and headspace you have to field those questions, because they will come regardless of who is nominally in charge. The more complex the build, the more you need someone whose sole job is to keep all the moving parts moving.

The Takeaway: Before work starts, establish clearly who is managing the project day to day, what that actually involves, and whether you need a professional project manager to take it on.

What no one tells you about renovating is that the costs that hurt most aren't necessarily the big structural surprises. Often it's the small decisions made too early, or not made at all. From the finishing details that make your renovation look cheap to the survey results that raise red flags, the best defence is always the same: ask more questions before you start.

When Katie and her partner Ronan walked into their 1956 end-of-terrace in a quiet rural village, they knew immediately it was the one. It was also right at the top of their budget, but that wasn't going to stop them. If securing their dream home meant rolling up their sleeves and doing a lot of the renovation work themselves, that's exactly what they'd do.

The house had been a much-loved family home, sold by grant of probate and frozen somewhere around 1989. Every wall was woodchipped, both bathrooms were carpeted, and the kitchen – with its yellow wallpaper, red dots, jug-themed border – was what Katie describes as "oppressively cheerful." Upstairs, an apricot bathroom suite sat in perfect, unloved condition. Stylish, Katie concedes, about forty years ago.

Their philosophy was simple from the start: "we'll do what we can ourselves, but if something needs doing properly, we'll get it done properly." The harder part, as they quickly discovered, was working out which was which.

What followed was two years of evenings spent stripping wallpaper, weekends given over to sanding floors, a YouTube-assisted crash course in bricklaying, and at least one near-electrocution. They've done a remarkable amount of the home renovation themselves, but they'll be the first to tell you that not all of it was wise...

The jobs they tackled themselves — and nailed

Refreshing the kitchen

The first battleground was the kitchen refurbishment. With three weeks between getting the keys and the end of their rental contract, they spent most evenings stripping wallpaper in the kitchen, and Katie recalls that there was layer upon layer of it (including one particularly funky design featuring chickens that predated everything else).

"I thought it would only take a couple of days," Katie admits. "But it took us basically the entire three weeks." The culprit was a strange, shimmery, glue-like coating on the walls, which turned out to be aged wallpaper paste that had hardened over decades and defeated even chemical stripper. The trick, it turns out, was to soak it with warm soapy water and work it off with a scraper (though you'll want to have filler to hand for any wall damage left behind). The couple persevered, listening to Radio 2's country music festival on repeat, and eventually got there.

Ronan then took a week off between jobs to sand and paint the kitchen cabinets. "We invested in high-quality kitchen paint," says Katie, "because if you don't get good quality stuff, it chips. And it chips anyway, but at least it lasts a little bit longer."

Reviving a hidden parquet floor

The bigger triumph came when they lifted the hallway carpet. They'd assumed, based on a patch of concrete near the front door, that they had solid floors throughout. What they found instead was an original 1950s parquet floor, hidden under decades of carpet. "Ronan had been joking that we'd find something like that — we've all seen that viral parquet video," Katie laughs. "And then we actually did!"

Dust sheets went down, and Ronan got to work sanding the floor himself before finishing it with a deep wood stain. The dye went on so alarmingly dark that they briefly convinced themselves they'd ruined everything. They hadn't. "Believe what it says on the tin," Katie advises. "It does lighten. Just don't put it on too thick."

DIYing a stair runner

A multicoloured stair runner was something Katie had been eyeing in a catalogue long before they'd even bought the house. "It was just that one little thing I really wanted," she says. "It felt so bright and colourful — exactly the kind of atmosphere you want to walk into."

Before they could fit it, though, the stairs themselves needed attention. The old carpet came up, and what followed was a full repaint of the staircase. It's a process that sounds straightforward but absolutely isn't. Every spindle, every riser, every awkward angle needs to be coated. "You think you're going to be fine," Katie says. "You're not."

With Katie by this point heavily pregnant, she found herself lying on her side to reach the skirting boards while their cat, unsettled by all the disruption, repeatedly charged up and down the freshly painted stairs. "She kept getting paint on her paws," Katie sighs. "We had to shut her in the kitchen, which she did not appreciate."

Once the stairs were done, Ronan fitted the stair runner himself. It was a much more physical job than it looked, requiring a carpet kicker, a good eye for level, and plenty of patience. But the result is exactly what Katie had pictured: a shot of colour and personality the moment you walk through the front door.

Building a garden wall

Most recently, Ronan has turned his hand to bricklaying. He's currently building a garden wall where an old, shaded pond used to be. He used YouTube to teach himself the basics and has since become, in Katie's words, "an overnight expert in brick bonds." They now cannot pass a wall anywhere without him identifying the bond pattern. "Riveting," she says, with a tone that suggests otherwise, though she concedes it actually is quite interesting.

The jobs they tackled themselves — and wish they hadn't

The sequencing

The couple's subtlest regret isn't about any one job, but the order of operations. When Ronan started his parental leave, he embarked on what Katie calls "a moment of great ambition", removing living room wallpaper during their baby's naps. He got it done in the first week. The problem was that they weren't yet ready to replaster because the heat pump installation – planned for several months later – might require moving radiators and rerouting pipework. Their plasterer advised them to wait. That was October. "It is now April," Katie says, with the measured tone of someone who has been staring at bare, patchy walls for six months.

The living room, its layers of old paint exposed in a patchwork of green and red, has been affectionately nicknamed the 'Christmas room'. "We dressed it up with fairy lights at Christmas," Katie explains. "You can make anything look nice with a Christmas tree and fairy lights." She pauses. "It's now doing my head in."

The lesson, she says, is to think carefully about sequencing before picking up a scraper. "You don't want to replaster and then have to rip it all open again. Think about what's coming next – heating, plumbing, electrics – before you start on the walls."

Fitting the study carpet

Their more straightforward regret is the carpet they laid themselves in the study. Armed with that borrowed carpet kicker, some tools from a joiner friend, and equipment hired through their local Library of Things (more on that later), Ronan laid it himself.

It wasn't a disaster, but with the benefit of hindsight, Katie is unequivocal: "One hundred percent, the carpet was the one thing I'd get a professional in for," she says. "The cost of carpet installation isn't actually too much, and someone who does it every day will do it in a fraction of the time."

One tip she will pass on is to invest in the best carpet underlay you can afford. "It makes more difference than you'd think," she says, "and it's not something you can easily go back and fix."

The jobs they always knew needed a professional

Upgrading the windows

One of the first hard lessons of their hands-on renovation involved the windows. The house was draughty, visibly so. "You could see the curtains moving ever so slightly," Katie says. "Not all the time, and not in every room, but when it was windy, there were definite draughts."

So, getting the windows replaced jumped straight to the top of the list, ahead of the kitchen refresh Katie had been planning. They got three quotes, which varied considerably. The cheapest – several thousand pounds lower than the others – came from a sole trader who would have required them to apply for their own certification.

"I just felt like we'd be storing up problems," Katie says. "We've tried to do what we can ourselves throughout, but if something needs to be done properly, you get it done properly." Window installation requires official certificates, not least because you'll need them if you ever come to sell, and cutting corners at the quote stage rarely pays off down the line.

The bathroom renovation

The apricot suite had to go. Katie had known it from the moment they walked in, but with a stretched budget and a long list of priorities, timing was everything. Her reasoning was pragmatic: with a baby on the horizon, she knew that once the costs of starting a family kicked in, the bathroom would keep getting bumped down the list. "I also just couldn't justify keeping it anymore," she says.

Unlike so much of what they'd taken on themselves, this was never a candidate for a DIY job. "Bathroom plumbing is not something you want to attempt if you want it done well," Katie explains. "And if you get it wrong, you've got a serious problem on your hands." So they found a fitter they trusted, got it designed, and waited. The lead time turned out to be lengthy, which, in the end, worked in their favour, giving them extra time to save. It was expensive, but it was worth it.

The plastering

Throughout the house, Katie and Ronan have stripped paint off walls, polyfilled, sanded, and painted over wallpaper. It's a perfectly respectable finish, but it's not the same as a properly plastered wall, and Katie is honest about that distinction. "It never creates quite the nice finish that a replastered wall does," she says.

For the hallway – the first thing you see when you walk in – they decided it had to be done properly. They stripped the walls themselves first to keep costs down, which also gave the plasterer a clear view of what he was working with. The result, clean and smooth, made everything else they'd done in that space feel worth it.

Their renovation takeaways

Two years of evenings and weekends has left Katie with some solid home renovation advice to share. "Be honest about what you can and can't do yourselves," she says. For her and Ronan, painting, wallpaper stripping, sanding floors and fitting a stair runner were all fair game. Bathrooms, windows, carpets and heating systems were not. "If it needs certificates, or if getting it wrong causes real problems down the line – just get a professional."

She also recommends being resourceful about how you get there. Ronan taught himself everything from fuse replacement to bricklaying via YouTube, and Katie swears by schemes like the Library of Things for borrowing tools you'll only use once. Don't be too proud to call in favours either. A joiner friend has lent tools, given advice, and is now commissioned to build their fitted cupboards in the living room.

"Get help where you can," Katie says. Above all, don't try to do everything at once. "Make small improvements," she says. "And when it feels frustrating – step back. You will get there."

Inspired to take on your own renovation? Read our guide to renovating a terraced house for room-by-room ideas, and weigh up whether living on site while renovating is right for you.

Under the new Simpler Recycling rules, households in England are required to separate waste into specific streams such as food waste, paper and card, dry recyclables, and general waste.

But what happens when homeowners decide to put, or accidentally put, recyclable materials into the general waste bin? Even though this isn't illegal, repeated or deliberate misuse can lead to significant penalties.

We asked a waste management expert when these penalties can arise, how serious they can be, and how large the fines can be under the new rules.

What the rules say about general waste and recycling

Under Simpler Recycling rules from April, councils must collect a standard set of materials separately.

The general waste bin is intended for non‑recyclable refuse only, while recyclable materials and food waste should be placed in their designated bins for separate collection.

According to official guidance from the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (DEFRA), this standardised system is designed to improve recycling rates and reduce landfill – ensuring councils can collect consistent material streams from every household in England.

How fines can be applied

While there is no direct criminal offence for mixing recyclables with general waste, councils can issue fixed penalty notices for persistent or deliberate non-compliance.

Graham Flynn, waste management expert and managing director of Anenta, said: “The government’s guidance makes it clear that minor or accidental mistakes shouldn’t trigger an immediate fine. The system is designed to encourage proper sorting rather than punish one-off errors.”

He explained that enforcement typically escalates in stages rather than starting with penalties: “The usual process is to issue a written warning, then a notice of intent, allow a period for representations, and finally issue the penalty if the problem continues.”

Flynn added that the maximum fine for breaches of the household waste duty of care can reach up to £600, often with a reduced amount available for early payment. However, he stressed: “This level of fine is typically reserved for more serious cases, such as giving waste to an unauthorised person, waste from a property being found fly-tipped, or a consistent failure to take reasonable steps to dispose of waste properly, rather than simply putting recyclable material in the wrong bin.”

Understanding the real risk

While concerns have been raised about potential penalties under England’s Simpler Recycling reforms, government guidance makes clear that enforcement is carried out by local authorities rather than central government.

Defra guidance told Homebuilding & Renovating: “The fixed penalty notice for breaches of the household waste duty of care provides an alternative option for enforcement. There is no obligation for councils to offer an alleged offender an FPN. However, it can be more proportionate than prosecution through the courts.”

Therefore, while adding recycling to general waste bins can result in penalties, the guidance also emphasises that penalties should generally only be considered where there is evidence of persistent or deliberate non-compliance, rather than minor or accidental mistakes.

Flynn said enforcement in practice tends to reflect this approach: “In practice, councils focus on persistent non-compliance or blatant disregard for the rules.”

Whilst most of the country is coming to terms with new Simpler Recycling rules, a significant number of councils have been granted exemptions allowing them to delay separate food waste collections well beyond the national rollout date of March 2026.

The Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (Defra) has introduced the reforms to standardise recycling across England and require weekly food waste collections for all households.

However, transitional arrangements linked to long-term waste contracts mean some areas will not fully comply for more than a decade. In the most extreme cases, delays stretch into the early 2040s.

Councils confirmed to have delays until 2040 or later

A national list of transitional agreements shows dozens of councils will not introduce full food waste collections in 2026. The longest confirmed delays include:

• Barnsley Metropolitan Borough Council – July 2040
• Doncaster City Council – July 2040
• Rotherham Metropolitan Borough Council – July 2040
• Wigan Metropolitan Borough Council – 2040
• Gateshead Council – 2039
• South Tyneside Council – 2039
• Sunderland City Council – 2039
• Sheffield City Council – 2038
• Wakefield Council – 2038
• North Yorkshire Council – February 2043 (one of the longest nationally)
• Manchester City Council – 2034
• Oldham Council – 2034
• Salford City Council – 2034
• Westmorland and Furness – 2034

In Derbyshire, South Derbyshire District Council and other Derbyshire authorities are expected to begin food waste collections in 2026, but remain part of wider regional planning under the Derbyshire and Derby Waste Local Plan, which continues to guide waste infrastructure decisions towards 2040.

Why some councils have been allowed to delay

Defra has allowed exemptions mainly due to long-term waste treatment contracts that pre-date the new legislation.

Many councils are locked into Private Finance Initiative (PFI) or energy-from-waste agreements that run for 20–25 years, making early changes financially difficult or impossible without significant penalties.

In South Yorkshire, for example, Barnsley, Doncaster and Rotherham are tied into a shared waste contract linked to the Manvers facility, which already processes food waste within residual waste streams.

Similar arrangements exist in places such as York and North Yorkshire, where a long-term residual waste contract runs until 2043, and across parts of Greater Manchester, where councils are locked into joint disposal contracts that pre-date the Simpler Recycling rules.

Government guidance states that these exemptions are designed to avoid unnecessary duplication of systems and reduce the cost burden on councils, even if it means uneven national rollout.

How to know if your council is delayed

Many households have not yet received new bins or caddies because most councils are rolling out Simpler Recycling in stages.

The simplest way to check your local situation is to look at your council’s waste pages, where most authorities are now publishing rollout timelines for food waste collections, bin deliveries, and new recycling rules. Councils with transitional agreements will usually state this publicly, as they are legally required to inform residents of their revised start dates.

Even where delays exist, most councils are still expected to eventually align with the national system - meaning households should see new food waste collections introduced gradually between 2026 and the early 2040s, depending on location.

Victorian houses built between 1837 and 1901 are often romanticised for their high ceilings, and original features such as cornicing, fireplaces, wooden windows and fancy brickwork.

And it’s true, they all add immeasurable character, but this comes at a cost. Victorian houses are spectacularly inefficient when it comes to heat retention, and therefore require high energy input to heat. On particularly cold winter days, heat escapes these draughty old homes almost as quickly as it’s produced.

So, when my wife and I took on a Victorian home renovation, improving the energy efficiency quickly became one of our top priorities. We had to decide which improvements to make so that they could improve our energy use both now and in the future. These are the 5 energy upgrades we selected to make, why we chose them and the results we've seen to date.

1. We added internal wall insulation

The most effective improvement we made, both in terms of energy performance, and comfort, was adding internal wall insulation to the external-facing walls. The house is built from solid brick, which means there wasn't an option to opt for cavity wall insulation.

Instead, we installed internal wall insulation using funding from the UK government’s Green Deal to help cover a large portion of the cost. An important point to make here is that we never considered external wall insulation as adding external cladding of any kind would have ruined the facade of the house. On a few external-facing brick walls without windows we were able to install 95mm insulation, while walls with windows were limited to 65mm to maintain the original window depth.

The end result was a dramatic improvement in thermal performance. Solid Victorian brick walls typically have a U-value somewhere around 2.0 W/m²K. With internal insulation, installed performance can improve to around 0.3 W/m²K which is comparable to modern, new-build standards.

More importantly the house immediately felt warmer and easier to heat, as well as feeling cooler in the summer – an added benefit as summers become increasing warm with climate change.

2. We replaced our old windows with new ones

The next major upgrade was replacing the original windows. Like many Victorian properties the house still had its original timber sash windows. While they looked beautifully dilapidated, they were single-glazed, draughty and extremely poor at retaining heat.

Rather than installing modern uPVC units we chose to replace them with bespoke timber windows which were specifically designed to replicate the original windows.

They were double glazed and argon-filled to improve thermal insulation by reducing heat transfer between the panes of glass. These type of windows typically achieve U-values of around 1.2 - 1.4 W/m²K, offering a huge improvement compared to single glazing.

Another welcome benefit was noise reduction. Our house sits on a road that becomes surprisingly busy during the school run. After the window replacement, noise dropped significantly, probably in the region of 10 - 15 decibels.

3. We insulated our loft

Insulating the loft was another obvious priority. We installed around 300mm of loft insulation which aligns with current UK recommendations for energy efficiency. This significantly reduces heat loss through the roof which is often one of the largest sources of energy loss in older homes.

After insulating, we boarded sections of the loft to make it usable for loft storage. Care was taken to maintain airflow above the insulation layer however in order to avoid loft condensation issues. It’s a relatively simple upgrade compared to many other renovation tasks but it can have a big impact on heating demand and comfort.

Shop for loft insulation and storage accessories

4. We upgraded our heating system

We undertook a number of upgrades related to heating to help with energy bills. Firstly we replaced the tiny old boiler that was still working, but straining beyond its intended capabilities to meet demand. In place of it, we installed a modern Baxi EcoBlue gas boiler.

We then considered the types of radiators we needed and replaced the old panel steel radiators with steel column radiators. They are heavier and larger than modern panel radiators, but they offer good heat output and suit this style of older home.

An online heat loss calculator, such as this one offered on the Best Heating website helped to estimate the required BTU output for each room. The calculations take into account factors such as room size, ceiling height, insulation levels and window area.

This allowed us to choose radiators with the correct combination of height, length, number of columns and depth to meet the heating demand of each room. Pipework throughout the house was also insulated so that the water stayed hot en-route to the emitters.

We also included a smart heating system to give us extra control

One additional heating upgrade was the installation of a smart Google Nest Thermostat, such as this one from Amazon.

Smart thermostats allow heating schedules to be adjusted remotely via a smartphone app, and can automatically adapt based on usage patterns. The system allowed us to fine-tune heating schedules throughout the day, which helped reduce wasted energy while still maintaining comfort.

Once it was all installed, I also adjusted the flow rate on my boiler which helps the boiler maintain a more consistent use of energy, rather than operating in short bursts and sharp peaks.

5. We draught-proofed and replaced doors

Finally, as part of our renovation we installed timber front and rear doors which had double-glazed panels above them to replace the older single-glazed glass. We also added draught-proofing around doors and other small gaps throughout the house.

These details may seem minor compared to some of the other improvements we made, but preventing uncontrolled air leakage has helped the entire heating system to work more efficiently.

Shop for quick draught-proofing fixes

Wondering how much energy upgrades might add to your renovation costs? Find out what you can expect to pay for new window costs, and discover the ways you could save money when you know what to salvage and what to scrap.

Households across England are now operating under new Simpler Recycling rules, which standardise how food waste is collected.

While food waste is being separated more consistently, confusion remains over what “compostable” products can go in the caddy.

Government guidance is clear that compostable coffee pods are excluded because they are treated as packaging, not food waste.

What the new rules say

From 2026, Simpler Recycling requires households in England to separate food waste from general rubbish, with councils providing dedicated food waste caddies.

The aim is to create a consistent system nationwide for processing organic waste such as food scraps, coffee grounds and other biodegradable kitchen waste.

However, government guidance published alongside the scheme sets a clear boundary. It states that any plastic packaging or non-packaging items labelled “compostable” or “biodegradable” should not be collected as food in weekly food bins, including coffee pods.

This means the rules are not based on marketing labels, but on whether an item can be processed safely in food waste treatment systems.

Why compostable coffee pods are excluded

Coffee pods labelled compostable are designed to break down in industrial composting conditions, which are tightly controlled environments using specific temperatures and processes.

But UK food waste systems typically use anaerobic digestion or similar treatment methods, which are designed for pure food material, not manufactured packaging. Because of this mismatch, compostable pods may not fully break down or can contaminate the process.

Government and waste operator guidance therefore treats compostable pods as non-acceptable contamination in food waste collections, meaning they must go in general waste unless a separate recycling scheme exists.

What households should do instead

Instead of relying on compostability labels, households are being advised to follow a simple rule under Simpler Recycling: food waste only goes in the food caddy if it is actual food or natural kitchen scraps.

Coffee pods should instead be:

• Taken to specialist pod recycling schemes where available
• Returned via retailer or manufacturer collection schemes like Nespresso's recycling scheme
• Or placed in general waste if no alternative exists

The government’s approach under Simpler Recycling is designed to reduce confusion by prioritising what can be processed reliably, rather than what is marketed as “eco-friendly”. This means that even as recycling rules become simpler, some popular products still fall outside food waste collections.

Nearly four in five homeowners say the government’s new Simpler Recycling rules that were introduced this week are "confusing", according to a Homebuilding & Renovating poll.

The findings point to widespread uncertainty ahead of the rollout, with many households unclear on what will be required of them and worried about the consequences of getting it wrong.

Alongside the results, readers voiced frustration not just with the complexity of the system, but with what they see as an increasing burden being placed on households that have long recycled voluntarily.

Poll results show overwhelming confusion

The poll, conducted by Homebuilding & Renovating, asked readers: “What do you think of the new Simpler Recycling rules?” and received 2,988 responses.

A clear majority – 79% (2,369 votes) – said the rules are confusing. Meanwhile, 11% (318 votes) said they were undecided, and just 10% (301 votes) felt the changes are a step in the right direction.

The results indicate that most homeowners do not yet feel confident about what the new system will require of them and what items should and should not be included in their recycling bins.

Readers raise concerns over fairness and enforcement

We at Homebuilding & Renovating also received responses from readers expressing strong views about the perceived shift from voluntary recycling to enforced compliance.

One reader said: “Everyone appears to have deliberately missed one very important point here. For some years now, most people have gone out of their way to recycle their waste, as the responsible thing to do… despite the fact they pay their taxes… and the work they do is unpaid for.”

They added: “And yet, now they are to be subject to draconian punishment if they get something wrong… no one signed up for this, and willing volunteers are now to be dragooned into compulsory compliance. All household waste should be put in one bin - and sorted by the council at their facilities.”

Another reader criticised local authority spending priorities and said they would escalate the issue: “I will be forwarding a copy of this message to my local MP… having paid our taxes, to be threatened with financial punishment if we make a mistake is a step too far. As my old nan would say: ‘This doll’s done dancing’.”

Shop recycling bins

Support exists, but uncertainty remains high

While criticism dominated the responses, a smaller group of homeowners expressed support for the reforms, with 10% viewing them as a positive step toward improving recycling rates.

However, the 11% who remain undecided underline the level of uncertainty still surrounding the policy. This suggests that many homeowners are waiting for clearer guidance before forming a firm opinion.

With confusion so widespread, the success of the new recycling rules may depend as much on clear communication as on the policy itself.

England’s new Simpler Recycling reforms came into force on 31 March 2026, promising to make bin collections easier to understand and more consistent across the country.

Local councils are now required to provide weekly food waste collections and separate recycling for paper, card, and dry materials.

However, in many areas, councils are facing financial, logistical, and operational challenges, so the new rules are not in place for residents for the start of April.

1. Some councils weren't ready for the new rules

Although the government says most local authorities are prepared for Simpler Recycling, some councils’ own official announcements show that not everything was ready on 31st March.

For instance, Ashfield District Council confirmed on its website that, while the new system “comes into effect today”, weekly food waste collections were not yet running: “Food waste collections will not be in place by 31 March 2026, and paper and card will remain part of the dry mixed recycling service and will not be collected separately.”

Similarly, Mawsley Parish Council (North Northamptonshire) announced that weekly food waste collections will not begin until September 2026: “We aim to commence a weekly food waste recycling collection … from September 2026… residents will receive information ahead of time.”

2. Government ambition vs local delivery

The Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (Defra) introduced the reforms to exclude certain items from being included in recycling bins to make sure all households can separate food, paper and card, dry recyclables, and residual waste.

The goal is to end inconsistent bin collections and make recycling simpler for everyone.

Circular Economy Minister Mary Creagh said the reforms would “end the bin collections postcode lottery and make it easier for people to recycle wherever they live,” adding that simplifying collections would “cut out carbon, clean up our streets, and help bring pride back into our communities.”

A Defra spokesperson also highlighted that the government had “made over £78 billion available to England’s councils this year,” including money to roll out weekly food waste collections, while stressing that the reforms would “empower local authorities to continue to deliver services in the way that works best for their communities.”

3. Phased roll outs while new routes are agreed

Setting up new services requires redesigning collection routes, distributing bins and kitchen caddies, and clearly communicating schedules to residents.

North Northamptonshire Council is rolling out food waste collections in phases so that residents have containers and instructions before the service begins.

Ashfield and North Northamptonshire have delayed services for their weekly food waste collections too.

4. Transitional agreements might be in place too

Residents in some areas may not yet have received weekly food waste collections under the new Simpler Recycling rules, but this is because certain councils are operating under government-approved transitional arrangements that legally allow a later start date.

While the national deadline for weekly food waste collections was 31 March 2026, councils with operational challenges – such as vehicle availability or long-term waste contracts – have a later, specific date set in legislation to introduce these services.

Defra said it is “working with local authority waste networks and the wider industry to provide additional support,” with transitional arrangements allowing councils more time to comply in challenging areas.

5. Funding issues have also caused delays

Although Defra has provided capital grants to support implementation, some councils told the BBC they remained concerned that funding might not cover longer‑term revenue costs or match the pace of procurement and service launch.

The government maintains that progress is being made and that some variation was anticipated.

While Simpler Recycling aims to create a uniform national system, evidence shows the rollout will take time. Even after the 31 March deadline, differences between councils remain, meaning the “postcode lottery” in bin collections has not fully disappeared.

Residents are advised to check local council communications for their exact collection dates, schedules, and guidance on what should go into their recycling bins.

Homeowners in England must ready themselves for a major recycling overhaul taking effect on 31 March when Simpler Recycling rules come into force.

These changes standardise what councils must collect from households, including weekly food waste collections and clarify what can and cannot be placed in recycling bins under the new system.

With some items now excluded from recycling bins and fresh expectations on sorting waste, preparation now will save confusion and potential fines.

What is changing from tomorrow

From tomorrow, local authorities in England must follow a consistent set of recycling requirements so households everywhere will recycle the same core materials.

The government guidance says the items that can go in your recycling bins and that must be collected are food waste, paper and card, plus all other dry recyclable materials like glass, metal and plastic (including cartons). All other residual waste (non-recyclable waste) must be kept separate.

Under the new standard, councils may still choose how they collect these materials, for example, by putting paper and card with other dry recyclables if they decide that is practical for their area, but they must collect all the core items.

Most households will need to adapt to separating these items properly and familiarise themselves with how their council is implementing the changes.

What you must not do with your recycling from tomorrow

Under the new rules, certain items that were sometimes recycled before must no longer be placed in kerbside recycling bins.

Avoiding these mistakes will help you navigate fines and missed collections:

• Do not put drinking glasses, flat glass, mirrors, or glass cookware such as Pyrex in your recycling bin.
• Do not place pots, pans or other kitchenware metal items with your cans and tins.
• Do not include compostable or biodegradable plastics, plastic bags or bulky rigid plastics that your council does not collect.
• Do not put absorbent hygiene products, tissues, wet wipes or nappies in your recycling bin.

These items should be disposed of through alternative methods such as household waste recycling centres, specialist collection schemes, or reuse/donation options.

Incorporate food waste collections into your routine

A major practical change for households is the introduction of weekly food waste collections, often with a small kitchen caddy and an outdoor food waste bin, which most councils are rolling out ahead of tomorrow’s deadline.

These collection services are intended to ensure food waste is captured separately from other waste streams and treated more sustainably.

How to prepare your home and bins before tomorrow

With the new system starting tomorrow, we spoke to a Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (DEFRA) spokesperson who gave these tips for homeowners to get ready for the changes. They advised:

• Checking your council’s new bin setup and collection day so you know what bins you’ll have and how often each stream will be emptied.
• Sorting waste indoors ahead of bin day so you are familiar with separating food waste from recyclables and general waste.
• Reducing contamination by rinsing containers where practical and ensuring only accepted items go into each bin.
• Arranging alternative disposal for items no longer accepted such as taking them to your household waste recycling centre or using reuse and donation routes.

Sort rubbish efficiently with these handy buys

The Simpler Recycling rules for households in England are legally in force from 31 March 2026 and will affect every home’s bin routines and recycling habits.

By understanding what must not go in your bins and planning how to deal with changes now, you can avoid confusion and help make your local recycling scheme work smoothly once the new “standardised” rules start.

Millions of households across England will need to adjust to new recycling rules from 31 March 2026, with councils required to collect waste in separate streams.

That means up to four different bins or containers for food waste, dry recycling, paper and card, and general waste, something that could easily cause confusion over what goes where.

Getting it wrong could lead to bins being left uncollected, warning notices, or, in some cases, even worse.

Can you be fined for putting the wrong recycling in the wrong bin?

Yes, but usually only after warnings.

Councils can take action if bins are repeatedly contaminated with the wrong materials. In most cases, households will first see warning stickers or tags placed on their bins, explaining what was done wrong.

If the issue continues, councils can issue fixed penalty notices, typically ranging from around £60 to £200, depending on the area. These fines are generally used for repeat or deliberate offences rather than one-off mistakes.

What other punishments can you face?

Fines are not the only consequence of mixing up your recycling.

• Bins can be refused collection if they contain the wrong items
• Warning stickers or tags may be placed on your bin
• You may have to remove the incorrect waste yourself before it is collected
• Repeat problems could lead to fixed penalty notices or legal action under environmental protection laws

This can mean dealing with overflowing bins or missed collections if issues are not fixed quickly. This is why knowing what can go in your recycling bin from March is so important.

What bins you will have and why confusion happens

Under the new rules, most households will have three or four bins or containers:

• Food waste (collected weekly) - leftovers, peelings, coffee grounds
• Paper and card - newspapers, letters, cardboard (sometimes combined with other recycling)
• Dry recycling - plastic bottles, pots and trays, glass bottles and jars, metal cans, cartons
• General waste - anything that cannot be recycled

Confusion can still happen because some items do not go where people might expect. For example, cartons go in dry recycling but not paper, drinking glasses and cookware cannot be recycled with glass bottles, and some plastics labelled biodegradable are not accepted in standard recycling.

If you are at all unsure then check with your local council for bin etiquette rules. You may be able to find information on your council website, but if not, contact them direct, as officials will be able to clarify what items should go in which bins so you can avoid potential fines.

If the new Simpler Recycling Scheme has left you worried about where your bin contents will go, you might need to find alternative ways to dispose of rubbish.

As a flat dweller with no outdoor space for wheelie bins, I'm going to be affected more than most, which is why I've taken a dive into what you can and can't dispose of after the end of March.

I'm as keen as anyone not to end up with excess waste, so here are the alternative ways to dispose of rubbish that I think will help me – and hopefully you too.

Disposing of glass items

First on the list of changes in what can be recycled is glass. Previously you were able to dispose of a variety of glass items in your glass recycling but this changes at the end of March. Once the new rules are place, according to the Simple Recycling government website page, (designed to be read by waste collectors), it states:

"You do not need to collect any glass not used as packaging". This includes:

• Candles
• Drinking glasses
• Flat glass
• Glass cookware (such as Pyrex)
• Light bulbs and tubes
• Microwave plates
• Mirrors
• Vases
• Window glass
• Ceramics, such as crockery or earthenware

So what can you do with the above? Other than broken items, light bulbs and tubes, flat glass and window glass, the remainder of the glass products can be disposed of in one of three ways:

• Sell or donate: If in good condition, you could either give it to friends or family, sell online using a sales platform such as Ebay, Vinted or Facebook Marketplace, or take them to your local charity shop – some charities may even offer collection if you are also disposing of larger saleable items such as furniture. Or you could even take on an upcycling project and re-use them in your home
• General waste: Wrap items carefully and put them in your general waste
• Recycling centre: Take them to your local licensed household waste recycling centre. You can find details of your nearest one on your local authority website. At mine, we have to make an appointments so make sure you check the guidance before you go

Metal items that can't be recycled in your kerb collection

As with glass, the new rules advise waste collectors that they no longer have to take the following:

• Laminated foil, like pet food pouches and coffee pouches
• Electrical items and batteries
• General kitchenware like cutlery, pots and pans
• Kettles
• Irons
• Pipes
• Metal packaging that has contained white spirits, paints, engine oils or antifreeze

I feel this is the one that will have least impact on how I will manage waste in a flat, as most of these items wouldn't have been accepted in my recycling bags anyway.

If you do have any of the above, then they can be split as follows, (with the exception of general kitchenware which could also be donated if in good condition):

• General waste: Laminated foil, like pet food pouches and coffee pouches; general kitchenware like small amounts of cutlery, pots and pans
• Local licensed household waste recycling centre: Electrical items and batteries; general kitchenware like cutlery, pots and pans; kettles; irons; pipes; metal packaging that has contained white spirits, paints, engine oils or antifreeze

Shop for sturdy kitchen bins

Plastic items that can't be recycled kerbside

I currently have a mixed plastics and metals collection bag that I primarily fill with food related packaging. As of 31 March 2026, waste collectors are permitted to not accept the following items:

• Any plastic packaging or non-packaging items labelled as ‘compostable’ or ‘biodegradable’, including coffee pods
• Plastic bottles that have contained white spirits, paints, engine oils or antifreeze
• Bulky rigid plastics such as garden furniture, bins and plastic toys
• Polystyrene (expanded and high impact) packaging such as packing beads
• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) packaging

Perhaps the most confusing change here is the fact that if your plastic food packaging of any kind says it's compostable or biodegradable, this cannot go in with recycling.

The reason for this is that it may contain traces of plastic that can contaminate the plastic recycling stream, so should instead be placed in general waste. Once a plastic collection is contaminated, it can result in the whole load having to go to landfill.

Alternative methods for disposing of the other items are therefore:

• General waste
• Local household waste recyling centre: For items that are too bulky for your regular kerbside collection
• Donation or sale: For garden furniture, bins and plastic toys in good condition

Paper and card items

Other than the food and drinks cartons (which moved to the plastic recycling collection a while ago), all other items on this list are mainly suitable for general waste collection.

The exception being nappies and incontinence products which are often collected by many councils in dedicated bags or caddies. Check your local council website to see if the service is available, and if you are eligible.

• Food and drinks cartons made of a fibre-based composite (these should be collected in the plastic stream)
• Absorbent hygiene products (AHPs) including nappies, period products and incontinence products
• Cotton wool or makeup pads
• Tissue or toilet paper
• Wet wipes

Bathroom bins for general waste collection

Food waste

According to the new rules, waste collectors no longer, "need to collect any plastic packaging or non-packaging items labelled as ‘compostable’ or ‘biodegradable’, including coffee pods. Food waste caddy liners used to hold food waste can be collected."

It's part of the overall Simpler Recycling plan to split food waste from any other kid of waste collection. I have had to use a food caddy for food waste in Wales for many years, but it's not the case everywhere.

Every home in England should receive a food waste caddy by the end of March, but each council may have to alter their timeframe depending on budget and resources available. An investigation from the BBC has already stated a quarter of councils have said this will not be achievable.

Food waste, is as it suggests, made up of food, and according to DEFRA, the following can be included in your caddy:

• Fruit and vegetables, including peelings and cores
• Bread, rice, pasta, cereals and baked goods
• Meat, fish, dairy products and eggshells
• Tea bags and coffee grounds
• Plate scrapings and uneaten leftovers
• Pet food

What changes, as with the plastics collection, is that items with compostable or biodegradable labels can no longer be included. The contents of coffee pods for example can be, but not the pod itself. It's why investing this Navaris Coffee Pod Recycling Tool might be a good idea. You can also discover ways to use your coffee grounds in your garden if you'd rather find a solution other than the rubbish bin.

In terms of alternative methods for disposing of food waste, if you've been looking at ways to make your garden more eco-friendly, you may already have a home compost for food waste. This will be your main option if you don't choose to use your council provided collection.

Garden waste

A quick poll of the Homebuilding & Renovating team confirmed that garden waste collection was already available in their home towns, but that all of us had to pay for this collection.

Garden waste collection will remain in place (with councils still able to charge), so what changes, is again what can't be included, with the following items shown on the government website:

• Animal bedding
• Bulky waste (including garden furniture and fencing)
• Garden tools or other gardening equipment
• Plant pots
• Plastic
• Sand
• Sawdust
• Stone, gravel or bricks
• Tea bags or coffee grounds
• Branches and trees over a certain size may have to be cut into smaller pieces to follow local guidance

So, let's break down your alternative waste disposal options for what you may have previously categorised as garden waste. I know that when I had a garden waste bin, none of the items listed wer allowed anyway, so you may already be up to speed with this.

• Food waste: Tea bags or coffee grounds can go into your food waste
• General waste: Small quantities of animal bedding, non-recyclable plastic, sand, sawdust and smaller plant pots
• Donate or sell: Gardening tools, equipment or furniture that are in a good enough condition
• Recycling centre: Take all other items them to your local licensed household waste recycling centre. In general they will have separate skips for items such as stone, gravel and bricks, as well as a large skip where you can dispose of sizeable garden waste. I know mine certainly does.

For more helpful advice on what can and can't be recycled in your area, visit the Recycle Now website. Also take a look at the additional advice we have on dealing with garden waste, and if you have a home renovation in sight, check out these ways to reuse brick in your garden, how much you can expect to pay for skip costs, along with some expert suggestions for recycling building materials.

Anyone who has been researching energy efficiency for their new home will have become used to the term ‘fabric first,’ as this is still very much the best method for achieving high energy efficiency levels.

When it comes to zero bills, the less energy you need, the easier it is to draw it all from renewables and remove your reliance on the pay-for grid. But, is this achievable by retrofitting an existing home?

If you are building a new home from scratch, the goal of achieving a very high performance fabric is a little less complex, as you're not dealing with an existing structure that is complicated, unknown and very often expensive to treat.

But, when renovating, it's often trickier. That said, once you have treated the fabric of the home as best as you can, that is when you can get an energy requirement calculation and determine which technologies are best suited to delivering comfort to the home, and how close to ‘zero’ you can actually get.

What does zero energy bills really mean?

Zero bills can be defined in a number of ways. Having absolutely no direct running costs may be the initial understanding of the term, and it is true to say that if we put enough solar panels and batteries on a home then we could potentially have a home that had zero bills.

However, the capital cost would be very high, so the question is, should this calculation also include replacement cost of equipment, as this would then require the home to generate an income that was sufficient to cover capital replacement?

The more common use of the term zero bills has usually involved some form of offset. This can be referred to as ‘Net Zero’. The home generates enough energy to cover its use in a fixed period, which is usually a year. The generation will be greater in summer, and the use is greater in winter, but on average they cancel each other out. This can be calculated on an energy used basis, or on a financial cost basis.

It's also common to hear of performance targets such as Passivhaus in relation to Net Zero or zero bills. These are much more achievable on a new build. The retrofit equivalent of Passivhaus is EnerPHit which has certain details that are different, due to the fact that some things simply cannot feasibly be achieved on an existing building.

EnerPHit is however still a very high standard, and as such many homeowners do not set the bar that high, due to budget, average home prices in the street, or simply due to the disruption and expected project duration. It is nonetheless important to know where the bar is being set.

Achieving zero energy bills in an existing home

Energy use is simple to calculate. If you use 10000kWh per year then you need to generate 10000kWh per year. Some purists say that if you use this calculation method you should generate around 20% more than you use to account for grid losses.

However, when we look at the financial cost, things get a bit more open to context. Zero bills in this context is often referred to as ‘cost neutral’ or ‘cost positive’ depending on if you generated more income than your energy bills cost.

Historically, the Feed in Tariff for energy generated on solar photovoltaic panels was many times higher than the actual cost per unit of imported electricity. Therefore the early adopters were earning around £2,200 a year tax free, when their annual energy bills were only around £1,200. This was cost positive.

But, because energy prices rose a lot quicker than inflation, and generation income revenue rates tumbled, it soon became the case that the generation income did not cover the cost of the energy bills. It then became more important for homeowners to find ways of using less energy in the home by insulating, draught-proofing and turning appliances and heating off, or down, when not required.

It also became very important to use any energy generated at the time it was generated. Careful consideration of energy management in the home became increasingly important.

Appliances such as washing machines, tumble dryers and dishwashers that could be set up to automatically operate during the day, are now standard for better managed homes. Battery storage systems have become more popular, especially as installation costs fall. The uptake of electric vehicles has also meant that excess energy generation can be stored in the vehicle battery.

All of these technologies, including the increased installation of heat pumps, are based on electricity. The collective term being used for all the electric based products being installed on our homes is ‘electro-tech’ and by deploying smart electro-tech into our homes, the management of energy use becomes easier.

How energy companies are encouraging zero bills

Octopus Energy has embraced the zero energy drive and launched – Octopus Energy Zero Bills Homes. With this scheme, the energy use of your home is calculated and the scheme will guarantee you have no bills for 10 years providing you install solar PV, solar battery storage, an air source heat pump and use an electric vehicle and let them manage it.

This is currently available on certain new build properties with various terms and conditions and fair use policies but Octopus Energy is planning to roll it out to include retrofitting in existing homes too.

I can only see this growing and other energy companies following suit. It’s the way homes are being developed now. We no longer fit industrial infrastructure to houses. We instead manage the homes as complete energy systems, which includes changing how, and when, we use energy.

In my view, zero bills is not a pipe-dream, it's real and it’s happening now. It is however easier to achieve if you have lower energy use to start with. The lower your energy use, the smaller your electro-tech, and therefore the lower your capital costs and the better your return on investment.

Achieving zero bills is not difficult, making it pay for itself though, requires careful planning and managed work.

To start your journey towards a zero energy bills life, you'll need to firstly understand how to work out your energy needs and choose the right renewables. Then, make sure you understand the key fabric first factors such as the best types of home insulation to ensure your home isn't leaking heat before you start.

Some items you’ve always recycled at home will no longer be collected as councils begin following the new Simpler Recycling rules – leaving households uncertain about what can go in the bin.

Recycling rules for households in England are changing on 31 March 2026, with councils required to follow a standard list of materials for collection.

Whilst some items will no longer be collected, some core materials will continue to be recyclable, but confusion remains about what counts as "acceptable".

What goes in the recycling bin under the new rules

1. Paper & Card

• Newspapers and magazines
• Office paper
• Cardboard boxes (flattened), cereal boxes and packaging cartons
• Liquid cartons

2. Glass

• Bottles and jars used for food and drink packaging

3. Metal

• Food and drink cans
• Tins and foil trays
• Foil packaging

4. Plastics

• Plastic bottles, tubs and trays made from recyclable plastics (such as PET, PP and PE)
• Non-black plastic plant pots, which are now included after the horticulture sector worked to ensure they could be processed by recycling systems

Samantha Dyer, Head of Responsible Business at B&Q, said: “Customers want to garden more sustainably, and being able to recycle plant pots at home will make a real difference. Clear and consistent guidance from councils will help ensure more of these materials are captured and recycled rather than thrown away.”

Why some recycling may still be rejected

Confusion over what can be recycled remains a major issue, with a significant proportion of household recycling being rejected due to contamination.

Mark Hall, waste management expert at BusinessWaste.co.uk, said: “As much as 20% of the waste we have intended to recycle is rejected, usually due to the incorrect items being placed in bins or from contaminants like grease. This is a great shame as many people work hard at home to separate waste and do their bit to protect the environment. Often contamination is just down to a lack of education.”

Research from BusinessWaste.co.uk indicates that 82% of UK households put at least one non-accepted item in their recycling, and around 40% of all household recycling is contaminated. Common problem items include drinking glasses, foil pouches, toothpaste tubes and plastic film lids, which can cause entire batches to be rejected.

Hall advised households to take practical steps to reduce contamination, including not bagging recycling, separating mixed recycling building materials, rinsing food containers and avoiding “wishcycling” – placing items in bins in the hope they can be recycled.

He added: “As Simpler Recycling launches for homes on April 1st across England, more public awareness of how recycling works and what local authorities will accept should help to see contamination rates decline in future.”

Recycling products for your house

What the changes mean for households

The new rules mean that while there is now a clearer national list of recyclable materials, households may need to adjust long-standing habits about what goes into their bins.

Items such as drinking glasses, cookware, bulky plastics and compostable plastics are no longer required to be collected as part of household recycling, even if some residents may have previously included them.

However, councils may still vary in how quickly they update guidance and collections, meaning households are likely to rely on local instructions alongside the national rules as the changes take effect.

There's nothing more frustrating than forgetting it's bin day and being stuck with mountains of rubbish spilling over for the next two weeks. This happens to me way too much, so I've been on a mission to find clever tips and tricks to help me remember.

If your memory is as bad as mine (or if you're unsure when your bin day even is and just copy what your neighbours do), I've put together a simple guide that will help us both.

Below, you'll learn how to easily check your local area's bin collection dates and keep up with new recycling rules, plus get four ideas to help you remember when it is.

How do I check my bin day?

You can check your area's bin collection dates on the government website. After entering your postcode, the site will tell you the name of your council and direct you to their website, which lists all the days you need to know. You'll also be able to find out what can and can't be recycled so you can organise your rubbish more efficiently.

Some councils even offer free SMS, email and app notifications to remind you before bin day and to make you aware of any disruptions or rule changes.

How do I remember my bin collection days?

1. Set a reminder on your phone
One of the easiest ways to remember your collection dates is to set a reminder on your phone. There are even dedicated apps designed to help you, such as BinDays. Alternatively, the best smart hubs can be programmed to alert you on a certain day, either through a message on your phone or out loud on a speaker.

2. Write it in a calendar
If you prefer a good old-fashioned calendar over a digital one, make a note on it when it's bin day – but make sure you check it regularly! Over time, this will become engrained in your weekly routine, and you won't forget. You can even buy magnets and stickers which show you which bins need taking out at a quick glance.

3. Create a sticker for your bin
Another handy trick for remembering your collection day is to place a sticker on your bin. You can buy a big roll for under £5, like these ones from Amazon, and position it discreetly on the back. This is helpful for the whole household – especially if you're away and others don’t have a reminder set up.

4. Sign up to council alerts
As mentioned earlier, some councils offer SMS and email alerts to give you a heads-up about your bin days – you just need to sign up on their website.

By following these tips and tricks, you'll never miss bin day again and will even be able to help fellow forgetful neighbours know when to put theirs out.

If you're looking for ways to conceal unsightly bins, you'll want to browse these stylish wheelie bin storage ideas and kitchen bin ideas.

From the end of March, every household in England should receive weekly food waste collections under the government’s Simpler Recycling reforms.

The government says the changes will ensure the same materials are collected for recycling across the country and help simplify the system for residents.

The new rules mean there will be items you can no longer recycle, and we reveal what can go in these food waste bins, why they're being introduced and if councils are ready for the changes.

Nationwide food waste collections

Under the reforms from the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (DEFRA), all local authorities in England must provide weekly food waste collections from households by 31 March 2026, unless a transitional arrangement applies.

Where councils are introducing the service for the first time, households will typically receive an indoor kitchen caddy and an outdoor food waste container to separate food waste from other rubbish.

What can go in your weekly food waste bin?

Under the new Simpler Recycling reforms, all households in England will be able to recycle their food waste weekly.

We asked DEFRA what residents can include in their weekly food waste bin, and they confirmed all these are allowed:

• Fruit and vegetables, including peelings and cores
• Bread, rice, pasta, cereals and baked goods
• Meat, fish, dairy products and eggshells
• Tea bags and coffee grounds
• Plate scrapings and uneaten leftovers
• Pet food

Some councils may allow compostable liners, but food should be removed from packaging before placing it in the caddy or bin.

Ending the recycling 'postcode lottery'

The changes form part of the government’s Simpler Recycling reforms, which aim to ensure the same materials are collected from households across England.

From the end of March, councils will be required to collect food and garden waste, dry recyclable materials such as glass, metal and plastic, paper and card, and residual waste from kitchen bins.

Officials say this will help simplify recycling rules and make it easier for households to know what can be recycled.

Are councils ready for the changes?

The government says it has provided £261.7 million in capital funding and £79.5 million in resource funding to help councils roll out the new food waste services.

A spokesperson for the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs said: “We’re making over £78 billion available to England’s councils this year, which includes funding for councils to roll out weekly food waste collections.

“Our Simpler Recycling reforms will end the postcode lottery of bin collection and help keep our streets cleaner, while empowering local authorities to continue to deliver services in the way that works best for their communities.”

Officials said more than two-thirds of councils are ready to deliver weekly food waste collections, with over half already providing the service.

There are lots of reasons why you might be asking 'when was my house built?' Perhaps you have just taken on a renovation project and are keen to ensure the upgrades you make are in keeping with the era in which it was built, maybe your insurance company needs to know in order to give you an accurate quote or, maybe, you are just curious about the origins of your home and its previous occupants.

I have always found one of the most exciting parts of renovating a house has been to find out more about its history, but I also really enjoy digging around to find features and details to suit its true architectural style – particularly where we have taken on projects that have seen some somewhat unsympathetic 'improvements' over the years. Usefully, my own Edwardian home has its build date carved into a piece of stone on the front of the house.

In case you are unsure how to get started uncovering the roots of your property, I asked an expert in the field how to go about finding its build date – here are the six methods they recommended.

1. Check your house's title deeds

Perhaps one of the most obvious way to find out when your house was built is to check its title deeds. These are paper documents that contain information regarding the chain of ownership of your property and might include things like leases, wills, information about boundaries, conveyances and mortgages.

If you are lucky, you will have been given the titles deeds when you were buying a house. However, this isn't always the case. Sometimes Land Registry will hold them but this certainly won't always be the case as they tend only to have them when a property is first registered when they may (or may not) have been scanned into the system.

"For properties likely to be built before 1862, check out the HM Land Registry: 1862 Act Register," advises Rob Faulkner, CEO and founder of Insuristic. "This was the UK government's first attempt to record property ownership information. It contains almost 2,000 properties in volumes of handwritten and typed pages."

If you have no luck with Land Registry you might find the deeds are with the solicitor who acted for your when you bought the house – or even your mortgage company.

2. Have a home survey carried or check a previous one

House surveys can reveal all kinds of things about a property, from its condition to potential risks nearby, such as flooding. In some cases, they will also carry details of when it was constructed.

"Home surveys can be useful to check when a house was built," picks up Rob Faulkner. "If you or a previous owner have ever instructed a home survey (like a home buyers survey) you will find the year the house was built within it."

It is important to realise that there are lots of different types of house surveys though and not all might contain the information you are looking for.

3. Use a free property checking service online

The wonders of technology mean that it is now easier than ever to look into the history of a property and its previous occupants, whether you are renovating a Victorian house or a rural cottage – without even having to step outside it.

"While there are lots of options to try when looking how to find out when a house was built, this way is perhaps the easiest," points out Rob Faulkner. "Use a free property checking service where you can check details of your property price, lease end date, last EPC data and more."

Be aware though that there are many of these sites around and made sure that the one you use doesn't come with any hidden fees. Those based on HM Land Registry date are likely to be the most accurate.

4. Speak to your local authority

This one depends very much on exactly how old your house is. If we're not going back hundreds of years, your local authority may well be able to offer some insight on when it was built.

"You can contact your local authority to check when a house was built," says Rob Faulkner. "The local authority will hold information on your property, such as when planning permission was granted. It is worth contacting them to see if they can provide the date your house was built."

5. Dig around in historic records

In the case of older and period properties, getting your hands on the titles deeds or finding out much from your local authority could prove difficult, in which case you'll need to do a bit of investigative work.

"Try local archives – they can be useful, and search county record offices, your local library and parish records," suggests Rob Faulkner. "These are all good sources of data for your local area and may contain the information you need."

Rob goes on to suggest checking historical ordnance survey maps, the national census or, if you are buying a listed house, points out some other useful sources. "If the property is likely to be listed, you can search the National Heritage List for England, or the Cadw records for property in Wales or Historic Environment Scotland. Other resources like English Heritage, National Trust and Victorian Society can point you in the right direction."

6. Familiarise yourself with architectural eras

And, finally, if all your searches still come back with nothing, it is often possible to get at the very least a rough idea of the age of your home by looking at its architectural details.

"The chances are that if the property was built after 1925, you should be able to easily check when a house was built," says Rob Faulkner. "But, if you've exhausted these resources, don't fret. Architectural cues can offer valuable insights into your home's historical timeline."

If historical architecture isn't your thing, begin by brushing up on a few house styles and their overriding features:

• Tudor (1485 - 1603): Tall chimneys, the 'Tudor arch' (a four-centered arch shape used for doors and windows), patterned brickwork, mullioned windows, steep gables.
• Jacobean Era (1603 to 1625): Gothic-style pointed arched windows, decorative chimney stacks, steeply pitched roofs, parapets, red brick facades with some stonework.
• Georgian (1714 - 1830): Symmetrical facades and layouts, sash windows, painted and panelled front doors, classical details such as columns and parapets, stucco or brick exteriors.
• Victorian (1837 - 1901): Decorative porches, bay windows, stained glass, high ceilings, brick facades often with decorative elements, tiled details, steep slate roofs.
• Edwardian (1901 - 1914): Wider in form than Victorian and less detailing, mock half-timbering on gables, pebbledash, parquet flooring, square bay windows, generous porches, wider hallways.

FAQs

Why do I need to know when my house was built?

You don't always need to know the exact date your property was built but, in some cases, its age can be required.

"The age of your house can affect insurance costs, particularly in listed buildings with stringent repair regulations," points out Rob Faulkner. "The age of your home can significantly impact your home insurance premiums, primarily due to the higher rebuild costs associated with older properties. Homes with period features, constructed using materials or methods that are challenging to obtain or reproduce in the present day, typically incur higher insurance costs. Additionally, if your residence is listed or boasts traditional elements such as a thatched roof, securing specialised insurance policies may be necessary."

In addition to this, understanding the age of your house will help when it comes to sourcing accurate replicas of original details, materials that will be suitable for its construction and can also alert you to potentially hazardous elements – you want to know if you are buying a house with asbestos or lead pipes.

Certain house style tend to be universally popular – and for many people, renovating a Georgian house is the dream. If you are lucky enough to have got your hands on one, make sure you know all there is to about their unique nuances before you get started to ensure you do it justice.

TV presenter and property expert Laura Hamilton has revealed the results of her latest home renovation, transforming a dated dining room into a bold, dramatic space.

Once filled with green carpet, wallpaper borders and floral curtains, the room now features satin black-painted walls and floors paired with grey wallpaper for a moody, high-impact look.

Even more impressive, the striking renovation came in at under £1,000, proving statement interiors don’t have to cost the earth.

Revealing the hidden potential

When she first moved in, Laura knew the room had potential despite its dated décor.

“The carpet was green. There was a green wallpaper border all the way around the room… and some nice floral curtains. It just wasn’t a room that I was proud to show off to my friends,” she said. The breakthrough came when she discovered wood block flooring under the carpet.

“I knew I could definitely do something with that, and it wasn’t going to break the bank,” she explained, setting the tone for a clever, budget-conscious renovation.

Moody, dramatic walls and floors

Laura took a bold approach to colour and texture, painting both the floors and the lower walls in satin black while adding grey wallpaper to the top half.

“I know what you’re probably thinking… black floor, black walls… it feels dramatic, it feels moody, it feels quite luxurious,” she said.

She added wood beading and a dado rail to create a panelling effect – a high-end look achieved cheaply: “It’s not wood panelling. It’s the original wall with wood beading, dado rail, and it’s just been painted. This is a much more cost-effective way of creating a panelling effect.”

The A Place in the Sun presenter decided that rather than replacing these features, a lick of paint was enough to give the dining room a completely different look, and she achieved it.

Shop black satin paints for your own project

Updating the lighting for a softer glow

Lighting also played an important role in finishing the space and complementing the room’s darker palette.

Laura refreshed her dining room lighting ideas by replacing the dated wall lights that were already in the dining room. She kept the fittings in their original positions, however, to avoid unnecessary electrical work.

She opted for new fittings with a more modern feel, choosing dark grey metal wall lights with a gold interior. “I found these from Dunelm… they couldn’t be more perfect because they have that dark grey metal shade with this gold detail inside,” she said.

The metallic detail helps soften the dramatic scheme, creating a warm glow that balances the satin black walls and painted floor while reinforcing the room’s moody, luxurious feel.

Brighten your space with these wall lights

A statement room on a budget

This combination of beautiful dining room ideas has resulted in a scheme that feels sophisticated and luxurious, despite a budget of under £1,000.

“I think it is a pretty good transformation from what it looked like to what it looks like now… it was that dreary, dated, drab 80s dining space. And now I think it definitely has the wow factor with a luxurious feel,” Laura said.

Her renovation proves that with strategic colour choices, clever detailing and reused pieces, even modest budgets can produce a statement interiors.

You can see more of Laura's journey on her YouTube channel, Property with Laura Hamilton.

From 31 March 2026, recycling rules will change for households across England under the government’s Simpler Recycling scheme.

That means some items people may have previously placed in their recycling bins – including materials often found when clearing out homes or carrying out renovations – will no longer be collected.

Here’s what is changing, which items are affected, and what homeowners need to do to avoid collection problems.

Items that will no longer be collected for recycling

Under Simpler Recycling rules, councils and waste collectors are no longer required to pick up certain items from household recycling bins. This will have an impact on recycling building materials commonly found in kitchens, bathrooms, gardens and renovation projects:

Glass and ceramics

• Drinking glasses, flat glass, mirrors, vases, and window glass
• Glass cookware such as Pyrex
• Candles, crockery and earthenware

Metal items

• Cutlery, pots, pans, and other kitchenware
• Electrical items such as kettles and irons
• Laminated foil, including coffee and pet food pouches
• Pipes and metal packaging that contained paints, engine oils, or antifreeze

Plastic items

• Compostable or biodegradable plastics, including coffee pods
• Bulky rigid plastics such as garden furniture, bins and toys
• PVC packaging and polystyrene packaging

Paper and card

• Absorbent hygiene products such as nappies and period products
• Wet wipes, tissues, and toilet paper
• Fibre-based composite food and drink cartons (these are now collected in the plastic stream)

Garden waste

• Plastic packaging labelled as compostable or biodegradable
• Garden waste such as plant pots, sand, stones, gravel and large branches

While these items are not required to be collected in garden waste bins under the Simpler Recycling guidance, garden waste collection services themselves are not being removed.

Many councils will continue to offer garden waste collections, although households may need to pay for the service depending on their local authority.

These changes come from the official guidance published by the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (Defra), which councils are required to follow when collecting household recycling.

Sort your recycling with these handy picks

What happens if you break Simpler Recycling rules?

If the wrong items are placed in recycling bins, councils may refuse collection and leave a notice asking residents to remove the incorrect waste before the next collection.

Households will usually receive a warning first rather than an immediate penalty. If someone repeatedly ignores the rules, however, or continues to contaminate recycling, councils can issue a Fixed Penalty Notice, typically between £60 and £80.

A government spokesperson has clarified that reports suggesting households could face automatic £400 fines for putting the wrong item in a recycling bin are incorrect.

What homeowners can do with items that are no longer recyclable

The Simpler Recycling guidance, supported by waste experts, recommends that homeowners:

• Take non-collectable items to Household Waste Recycling Centres (HWRCs) – suitable for lightbulbs, glass cookware, electrical items, metals, and bulky plastics.
• Pack fragile items safely – wrap bulbs, glass, or ceramics to prevent breakage.
• Follow local council instructions for hazardous waste – fluorescent tubes and CFLs contain hazardous materials and should be handled according to council guidance.
• Double check what can still go in your recycling bins – to avoid contaminating recyclable materials and sending waste to landfill.

Colin Hayes, a recycling expert for Panda Recycling, said: “With the new rules arriving this month, households have a clear opportunity to reset their recycling habits and make sure items are disposed of correctly.”

By understanding what is no longer collected and taking items to the correct recycling points, homeowners can reduce waste sent to landfill and ensure household and renovation waste is disposed of correctly.

Alan Carr is taking on his biggest property ambition yet, launching a bid for one of Britain’s most important historic castles in his new Disney+ series, Castle Man.

Inspired by his stay on The Traitors and his hands-on DIY experience from TV projects with Amanda Holden, Carr is pursuing a lifelong dream of living in a grand historic home.

The castle at the centre of his search, Ayton Castle, is described as “among the country’s most important historic houses”, and we can reveal the property is under offer, meaning Carr could be about to close buy his new home.

Alan Carr tackles a historic challenge

Carr is no stranger to taking on ambitious projects. He has built a career on comedy, presenting, and hands-on TV work, but a castle is an entirely different scale of commitment.

Carr has joked that most men buy flashy cars during a midlife crisis, but he wants a turret to call his own. “Since I was a boy in Northampton, I’ve always dreamt big, and have always been enchanted with the history and romance of a stately home and as I turn fifty, I feel it’s my time. All I want is a turret to call my own – get me over that drawbridge!”

His previous DIY projects have given him practical experience, and he has said he wants a home that combines history and charm with the chance to put his own mark on a property.

Inspired by The Traitors

Carr’s fascination with castles was sparked by his time on The Traitors, where he stayed in a historic Scottish estate.

He said the experience “completely transformed my idea of what life could be in a historic space.” It made him realise that a castle could be more than a dream – it could be a home with character, history, and the potential for personal touches that make it truly his own.

Sean Doyle, Vice President of Unscripted at Disney+, said, “Castle Man is about a performer taking on a property adventure that is both personal and extraordinary. It brings together architecture, ambition, and humour in a unique way, and we’re thrilled to be bringing this series to audiences on Disney+.”

What is the castle?

The castle at the centre of the series, subject to the acceptance of Carr's offer, will be Ayton Castle.

The castle is a striking Scots baronial house, mainly two storeys with a five-storey Great Tower, built from red sandstone with ashlar details. Features like corbelled eaves, rope-moulded turrets, crenelated parapets, crow-step gables, and roll-moulded sills show the skill of James Gillespie Graham, a leading Gothic Revival architect of the early 19th century.

The estate is described by estate agents Knight Frank as “a truly extraordinary property, widely regarded as Scotland’s finest example of Gothic Revival architecture. Its dramatic five-storey Great Tower, remarkable stonework and exceptional period detailing place it among the country’s most important historic houses.”

Set within more than 160 acres of listed gardens and parkland, the castle offers a rare combination of architectural significance, privacy and scale. In addition to the principal building, the estate includes extensive accommodation and a collection of income-generating cottages and lodges, providing flexibility and long-term potential, whether as a private residence or for carefully considered commercial use. We will wait and see if these form part of the series as well.

The team overseeing the property, whilst refusing to confirm if Carr was the bidder, said they look forward to seeing the next chapter in Ayton Castle’s history unfold, hinting that Carr could soon become part of it.

A home renovation, garden clean-up, or just a general tidy-up can produce a lot of waste that simply won’t fit in or be allowed in your general household waste bin. You could make numerous trips to the local recycling centre, but that’s inconvenient and time-consuming, and you may well be charged.

A large skip is the answer when you want to get rid of waste from your latest home renovation project. However, skips don't come in one size; you can use them for smaller projects, meaning a smaller skip.

Here we help you decide what size skip you’ll need, how much the skip will cost and what you can’t put in it.

Shop these to help fill a skip

Average cost of a skip

The cost of a skip can vary greatly depending on a number of factors, explains Lucas Hargreaves, Project Director at Skip Hire Network, “Skip hire cost varies depending on location, size of the skip, the service you receive, whether you need a permit, and how long you are hiring the skip for.”

Tom Reynolds, Business Development Director at Travis Perkins Hire, offers a quick look at the price for popular-sized skips. “The price of skips varies depending on a multitude of things, including location, but a rough estimate of the cost of a small, medium and large version, I would say are as follows:

• 4 yarder £150-£250 Ex VAT
• 8 yarder £250-£350 Ex VAT
• 12 yarder £350-£500 Ex VAT

Hargreaves goes into more detail for various-sized skips: “A small, 2-yard skip can be anything from £75 up to £175, but it’s important to consider that these smaller skips have a much smaller capacity. For a 4-yard midi skip, you can expect to pay anything from £130 to £320, and large 8-yard skips from £240 up to £450.

He adds, “At Skip Hire Network, a 4 yard midi skip for minor home renovations and garden clearances prices start at £160, a 6 yard midi skip for larger renovations and small building jobs from £220, and an 8 yard maxi skip, which you may use for building sites, from £240.”

These prices are typically for two weeks, but check when hiring and ask how much for additional weeks.

Types of skip you can hire

Skips come in different shapes and sizes, some more common than others, as Reynolds from Travis Perkins shares, “The ‘normal’ open top skips come in a variety of different sizes, with the eight-yard version the most common request that we come across.”

But there are other options, “You can get roll-on roll-off skips, which are containers that are bigger and more expensive. There are wait-and-load skips, where tradespeople will load the rubbish onto them while they are still at work, with the driver waiting until it is full before departing.”

He continues, “There are drop-door skips with a hinged door at one end allowing easy access, there is also an enclosed lockable option with lids that prevent unauthorised access.”

Beyond the solid skip options, there are skip bags. Hargreaves says, “While skip bags can be more affordable and convenient for smaller projects, there are hidden costs and risks associated with them.”

He points out some of the drawbacks: “ Skip bags usually have weight restrictions as they have limited volume, while traditional skips can hold up to 8 tonnes of material depending on the size.”

He adds, “With skip bags, while many are sturdy, they tend to have heavy material restrictions, and run the risk of ripping.”

Shop clearance bags

Choosing the right size skip

Size is key; you don’t want to hire a skip and find you don’t have room for all your waste. By the same token, you don’t want a skip that is only half full. Hargreaves outlines what size should suit your project. “Smaller, 4-yard skips are suitable for small domestic projects like minor home renovations, garden clearances, and garage tidy-ups, still making room for bulky waste, but with capacity limitations of around 20-40 bin bags.”

For large household clearances, Hargreaves suggests, “You should opt for a 12-yard skip depending on how much waste is expected. This has an approximate capacity for 100 – 120 bin bags, with significant capacity for bulkier, lighter materials like furniture and packaging waste.”

If you need something larger, Hargreaves says, “If you’re clearing an industrial or construction site, a 16-yard skip is generally the recommended size. This size capacity is around 140-160 bin bags, designed for projects with a significant amount of light, compactable waste.”

Alongside size, you need to consider type. Reynolds suggests a few options: “If it is for a full house build, then a roll-on roll-off skip would be preferable. If it is a standard renovation or a garden DIY project, then a small open one may do.” He adds, “It also depends on the space available for the skip on a driveaway or building site.”

Factors that can affect price

Hidden costs are something you need to look out for when hiring a skip shares Reynolds, “When hiring a skip, you must be careful not to go over the tonnage limit set when it is delivered to avoid any hidden charges."

He adds, “If there is no space for a skip on a driveway, then sometimes parking permits can be paid for, but that increases the price. As do things like the distance of travel for the supplier and the type of waste product you dispose of.”

What you can't put in a skip

You might think that you can put whatever you like in a skip, but there are restrictions, shares Reynolds, “Every skip supplier is different, but mattresses are a no-go – they need to be disposed of differently. As do goods like batteries, asbestos, paint and gas cylinders.”

He adds, “If you are disposing of something like plasterboard, you need to make sure that you can, as it is not always possible, depending on the type of skip you have.”

Talk to your skip supplier before hiring to make sure you are getting a skip that meets your needs.

A skip is essential when renovating a home. To make sure you get your renovation right (and make good use of your skip), take a look at our brilliant home renovation ideas. To help avoid any issues, take a look at traps to avoid while renovating, and what makes a renovation look cheap.

Renovating your home is an exciting opportunity for a fresh start. There’s new flooring underfoot, crisp paint on the walls, improved insulation and the promise of a space that finally works the way you want it to. But behind the smooth plaster and flawless finishes, there’s another side to home renovation that’s easy to overlook.

Many of the products we commonly use can release volatile organic compounds (VOCs), particularly in the days and weeks after installation. And while we often focus on lowering energy bills and reducing our environmental impact, creating a truly eco-friendly home means thinking beyond efficiency alone.

A healthier renovation doesn’t rely on expensive gadgets added at the end – it starts with smarter decisions from day one. Get that balance right, and your renovation won’t just look better; it will feel better to live in, too. Here’s how to do it.

1. Balance insulation and ventilation

Improving insulation is often top of the list in any home renovation, and rightly so. A warmer, more energy-efficient home is cheaper to run and more comfortable to live in. But a tightly sealed home still needs to breathe.

“High levels of VOCs can cause health problems and trigger asthma and allergic reactions,” explains Becky Lane, CEO of Furbnow. “But don’t focus on low-VOC materials and ignore how a house functions. If you improve insulation and make a home more airtight but don’t upgrade ventilation at the same time, you can trap moisture and indoor pollutants inside. That’s when mould appears.”

Here's what Becky recommends you do:

• Check your existing extractor fans are powerful enough and are venting externally.
• Improve bathroom ventilation and kitchen ventilation by installing humidity-controlled extractors if needed.
• Ensure air bricks aren’t blocked during renovation works.
• Consider mechanical ventilation if you’re significantly increasing the airtightness of your home.

2. Check for damp before sealing anything up

Before adding insulation, waterproof coatings or impermeable membranes, it’s crucial to make sure your property isn’t already dealing with hidden moisture problems. Sealing up a home without addressing existing damp can trap water within the structure and that’s when far more serious issues can develop.

“It’s essential that a property is free from existing moisture issues before any remedial work is carried out,” warns George Edwards, managing director of Timberwise. “Applying impermeable treatments without addressing underlying damp can restrict a building’s natural breathability.”

When a building can’t breathe, condensation and moisture becomes trapped within walls, subfloors or roof spaces. “This can increase the risk of timber decay, dry rot and the development of black mould,” George explains. “If left untreated, mould growth can worsen, increasing both structural damage and potential health concerns.”

Black mould is linked to respiratory problems, particularly for people with asthma, allergies or weakened immune systems. Dry rot, meanwhile, is a fungal decay that releases spores into the air and can also affect indoor air quality. For this reason, George strongly recommends booking a professional survey before carrying out works that could alter ventilation or moisture balance.

3. Choose solid, minimally processed materials

When specifying materials for your renovation, look beyond appearance and ask how the product is made. Composite boards, laminates and foam-based products often rely on chemical binders that can contribute to ongoing emissions.

One of the most common flooring mistakes homeowners make is focusing on the finishes they can see while overlooking what sits beneath. Wherever possible, prioritise solid, minimally processed materials such as natural timber, mineral plasters and ceramic tiles, and be cautious of heavily engineered products that depend on multiple bonded layers.

In practical terms, that might mean:

• When fitting kitchens, wardrobes or shelving, opt for solid timber or plywood with low-formaldehyde certification rather than standard particleboard or MDF where budget allows.
• If you’re plastering walls, consider mineral or lime-based plasters instead of synthetic gypsum-based or acrylic coatings, particularly in older properties that benefit from breathability.
• In high-traffic areas such as kitchens, bathrooms and hallways, choose ceramic, porcelain or natural stone tiles instead of laminate alternatives that rely on layered composites and bonded surfaces.

4. Reduce reliance on chemical adhesives

Various adhesives are used throughout a renovation – from fitted wardrobes and kitchen units to wall panels and trims. But while they’re often essential, excessive use of solvent-based bonding agents can add to the overall chemical load inside a home.

If a material needs strong solvents or adhesives to exist, that’s usually where problems start. Wherever possible, choose systems that minimise chemical bonding in favour of mechanical fixings or pre-finished components.

Try these actionable swaps:

• Opt for screw-fixed cabinetry rather than fully bonded installations.
• Choose interlocking wall or floor systems where appropriate.
• Ask installers which adhesive products they plan to use and specify low-emission formulations in your contract.

5. Slow down to reduce off-gassing

Renovation timelines are often tight, especially if you’re eager to move back in. But many building materials release the highest concentration of emissions immediately after installation, not years later.

Off-gassing (the release of airborne chemicals or gases from materials) is usually strongest during the first few days, so timing really matters. Decisions such as which room to renovate first can help limit overall exposure. Instead of completing everything at once, consider staggering installations – keep spaces well ventilated during curing, and avoid sealing up rooms too quickly. In the end, time and airflow are two of the simplest – and most effective – tools a home renovator can use.

Try these practical steps:

• Schedule installations in stages rather than all at once.
• Delay fitting skirting, trims or sealing edges until materials have properly cured.
• Ventilate continuously during curing periods.
• If possible, wait a few extra days before moving furniture back in.

6. Be careful with flooring and what sits beneath it

Flooring covers a huge surface area, so the materials you choose – and how they’re installed – can have a lasting impact on indoor air quality. Some engineered boards and laminates rely heavily on adhesives and chemical binders, which may continue releasing emissions over time, particularly in lower-grade products.

Becky Lane advises paying close attention to what sits beneath the finished surface: “Use treated timber and opt for fibrous insulation such as mineral wool rather than spray foam for a healthier build-up.”

Additional flooring recommendations:

• If opting for laminate or vinyl flooring, go for click-fit or mechanically fixed flooring systems to minimise glue.
• Use low-emission or neutral-cure sealants where sealing is required.
• Select solid timber over heavily bonded composites where budget allows.
• Use mineral wool insulation beneath floors instead of spray foam.

7. When decorating, look beyond low-voc paint

Choosing a low-VOC paint is a positive step, but it’s only the visible layer of the decorating process. The products used underneath – from primers and fillers to sealers – can account for a significant share of emissions, particularly in the first few days after application.

Instead of focusing solely on the label on the tin, consider the full specification. Primers and sealers can sometimes release more emissions than the paint itself, so opting for low-emission, water-based products with clear certification across the board is key.

Rather than choosing products one by one, think about the whole decorating job from start to finish. Using compatible products and giving each layer time to dry properly will help reduce emissions in those crucial early days.

Remember, even the highest quality types of paint won’t adhere properly if what sits underneath hasn’t been chosen carefully, so take a little extra time to ensure you get the best finish.

To reduce exposure to VOCs when decorating:

• Choose low-emission primers and fillers to match your paint.
• Stick to compatible products rather than mixing brands at random.
• Allow proper drying and curing time before sealing up the room.
• Ventilate well during and after application

Shop low VOC products

Want to feel fully prepared before starting your own home renovation? Take a look at our guide to planning permission to see which projects require approval, and familiarise yourself with building regulations so you understand the standards your work will need to meet.

A kitchen renovation is one of those projects that feels exciting right up until it isn’t. At the start, it’s all inspirational images and big ideas suggesting how much better your kitchen’s going to be. But somewhere along the way, many people realise they’ve made mistakes that are very hard to undo.

Kitchens are complex spaces that need to balance aesthetics, functionality, budget and buildability. Without taking the time to think through how the space will actually be used, problems and disappointments are likely.

Typical problems include poor design, installation difficulties, accessibility problems, not enough worktop space, or simply a kitchen that’s awkward to use. Most of these problems are down to the following common kitchen renovation mistakes, which fortunately are entirely avoidable.

1. Ripping out your old kitchen too quickly

Ripping out old units and kitchen appliances can be a very quick job, sometimes taking as little as only a few days to strip out the room. Therefore, it can be tempting to go ahead with removing the old kitchen before finalising your new design, as creating your blank canvas as a starting point can feel like your kitchen renovation is properly underway.

However, it is worth bearing in mind that the work that goes into a deciding, ordering, measuring, and fitting a new kitchen is nowhere near as speedy. And that's before you've had a chance to assess the fabric of the room, adding in any insulation that's needed, underfloor heating and/or flooring, changing windows and more. All this can take weeks or even months, so you need to have a plan for how to have a functioning cooking space before you even think about removing your old kitchen.

2. Not paying attention to electrics and plumbing

Installation and services connection mistakes are some of the most common problems when it comes to kitchen renovations. Kitchens often go wrong because they’re designed or ordered before the room is fully understood. Even small measurement errors can lead to gaps, clashes with services or units that won’t fit. An accurate survey is essential and should be carried out once all building work and finishes are complete, not at shell stage. It must confirm final room dimensions, the exact position of services, and wall and floor construction so units can be fixed, supported and plumbed in correctly.

Many expensive mistakes happen behind the scenes. Kitchens have a complex network of electrics, plumbing, drainage and ventilation, all of which must be planned and installed before walls are finished and cabinets fixed. Fitting kitchen units before service positions are finalised almost always results in compromises, awkward pipe runs, boxings or appliances that don’t fit properly. In the worst cases, newly-installed cabinetry may even have to be altered or removed.

3. Buying a showroom kitchen on a whim

Discontinued showroom kitchens can also cause problems, as they’re rarely designed to suit the space or services positions. Whilst they might look like a bargain, unless they can be properly adapted, they often become an expensive mistake.

That's why it's so important to have a proper understanding of your room and what you want to achieve as well as those all-important measurements before committing to buying your new kitchen – regardless of how good a deal something might seem.

That's not to say you shouldn't buy a showroom kitchen, just don't do it without fully assessing whether you have enough of it to work in your space. You don't want to end up short, when there's no way of buying additional matching units.

4. Overlooking ventilation requirements

Kitchen ventilation shouldn’t be overlooked as cooking produces steam, grease and smells, which must be expelled, especially in open-plan kitchens. Choosing a kitchen extractor that’s too small, underpowered or incorrectly vented can lead to smells lingering and grease settling where it's not wanted.

Proper ventilation needs to be considered alongside the layout of the kitchen. A powerful, well-positioned extractor that vents to the outside is essential, and a good design should also test out what’s possible.

Recirculating hoods are frequently specified to overcome ducting problems but have their limitations. And down draft ventilation sounds great, but unless the large vent ducts required can be vented externally, it’s likely to become an expensive and rather pointless novelty.

Shop kitchen extractors

5. Not including a contingency within your budget

A common regret is underestimating how much a kitchen renovation will cost. Even relatively straightforward refurbishments have a few unexpected surprises – outdated electrics, uneven floors or services that aren’t where they’re supposed to be. If budget is tight and the programme has no breathing space, these surprises quickly become stressful and expensive.

A sensible contingency is a necessity, and allowing an extra 10% to 20% on top of the expected renovation cost helps to deal with unexpected issues without panicking or cutting corners. It enables better decision making and avoids mistakes that would typically come back to haunt you.

6. Making big renovation decisions 'on the hoof'

Another common mistake is rushing in without a clear design and plan. Kitchen renovations are complex projects and often executed under pressure, especially when the space is out of action and daily life disrupted. This pressure can lead to decisions made on the hoof, compromised design and a poorly finished product. Good kitchen design requires thorough planning of layout, the right appliance locations, assessing your storage needs and figuring out how the space will be used at different times of day, and by different people.

There’s also a tendency to focus on looks at the expense of functionality. It’s easy to fall in love with a particular design, but the danger is choosing a design that looks fantastic but can’t cope with everyday use. It’s best to test the layout during the planning stage by imagining how the main working zones will work – imagine unloading the dishwasher, cooking a full meal or making breakfast. If something feels awkward, change it.

7. Ignoring basic kitchen layout principles

Kitchen layout mistakes are often the most painful because they’re difficult and expensive to fix. Ignoring basic kitchen design principles is surprisingly common, particularly in open-plan spaces where the kitchen is a piece of furniture, and part of a larger room.

The kitchen triangle is a key design concept and the relationship between the hob, sink and fridge has a huge impact on how well the kitchen will work. A good layout allows natural movement between preparation, cooking and cleaning spaces without constantly crossing paths or walking unnecessary distances. This doesn’t mean every kitchen must follow a textbook triangle, but it does mean the flow needs to be properly thought through.

8. Skimping on kitchen storage space

Poor kitchen storage ideas and worktop space is another typical problem. Kitchens have a habit of accumulating far more things than people anticipate, from small appliances to food storage and even everyday junk. Many renovators focus on storing away small kitchen appliances but overlook where to put everyday items. The result is worktops that are permanently crowded or cupboards that are clumsily overfilled.

Planning storage requires an understanding of what you’ll need to store. This means taking stock of what you actually own and how you use it. Ideally, making use of less obvious storage areas. For example, deep drawers are often more practical than cupboards, corner storage systems will transform this awkward space. Plinth drawers are even a possibility and can provide valuable extra storage.

9. Leaving insufficient clearance around a kitchen island

Kitchen islands are extremely popular but are often misunderstood features in modern kitchens. An island can provide extra workspace, storage and a social focal point. But it can also completely ruin the flow of a room if it’s poorly sized or badly positioned. Making your kitchen island size too large and leaving insufficient clearance around it, can block walkways, make appliances difficult to open and create bottlenecks when more than one person is working in the kitchen. As a general rule, major walkways should allow at least a metre of clear space.

Another common error is placing an island where it interrupts the natural movement through the space. This is particularly relevant in kitchen extensions that connect to gardens or dining areas.

10. Cutting costs by going cheap on high-use items

Kitchens are expensive, and when costs start to climb, it’s tempting to look for savings. One of the biggest mistakes is to skimp on quality in high-use areas such as kitchen worktops.

Cabinet carcasses, hinges and drawer runners are equally as important as they’re subject to daily wear and tear. Opting for the cheapest option can lead to wear, damage and a worn-out kitchen much sooner than expected.

When it comes to hardware – handles and knobs – it’s important to opt for something that doesn’t just look good. They’re one of the few parts of a kitchen that you’ll physically interact with every day, and there’s nothing worse than having something like a dishwasher door being impossible to pull open due to a poor choice in kitchen handle. Take time to test handles, consider how comfortable they are to use and think about how well they’ll age. Ideally opt for something that’s easy to use and will pass the test of time.

Shop kitchen cabinet hardware

11. Choosing the cheapest tradesperson

It isn't just a bad idea to skimp on kitchen units and worktops, the same can apply to tradespeople too. Choosing the lowest quote without understanding what’s included, or who will actually be carrying out the work, can be a false economy.

A capable, experienced installer may cost more upfront but is far less likely to make expensive mistakes that could end up costing you more in the long run.

That said, just because someone is the cheapest doesn't always mean they aren't the best. And the same can be true the other way around with the most expensive tradesperson too. It's important to do your due diligence and your research to ensure you make the right choice.

12. Failing to address poor lighting

Kitchen lighting ideas are another area where shortcomings are likely. A kitchen might look bright and airy but once a raft of kitchen units are installed, it could become gloomy and dark. Relying on electric ceiling lights isn’t ideal, particularly in kitchens with wall units that cast shadows over work surfaces.

Good kitchen lighting requires a “layered” approach where ambient lighting sets the overall mood, task lighting supports functionality, and accent lighting highlights features or creates atmosphere. Skipping one of these layers usually results in a kitchen that doesn’t quite work in real life.

Shop kitchen lighting

13. Forgetting to design accessibility into a kitchen renovation

Kitchens that become difficult to use as our lives evolve can become a real problem. Depending on your stage of life, simple design choices can make a big difference to the usability of a kitchen, and being mindful of these during a kitchen renovation can help futureproof your space and avoid having to spend more money in the future.

For example, incorporating drawers instead of low cupboards, installing pull-out shelves or choosing appliances at more comfortable heights. Even something like a boiling water tap, which you can pick up easily on Amazon, can improve day-to-day convenience and safety by removing the need for trailing cables and carrying boiling water across a room.

If your kitchen renovation is part of a larger renovation project, some of these principles can transfer over to other rooms when renovating a house. But before you get stuck in, be sure to assess your house renovation fully first, as well as looking at your home renovation costs in great detail, ideally breaking them down room-by-room.

Laura Hamilton has spent decades buying, renovating and selling properties in the UK and around the world and has seen firsthand what makes a home truly valuable.

She says many homeowners in 2026 could be better off staying put and renovating their homes rather than moving, and that even simple renovations can make a bigger difference than expensive extensions.

We share her practical steps and surprising tips that can help homeowners fall in love with their property again and make smart financial choices.

Why staying put can be smarter than moving

Laura Hamilton says that moving is not always the best solution even when homeowners feel restless. “In 2026, should you move or should you stay put and renovate? I always think this should be a decision that is personal to you and your family,” she says.

The costs of moving, including stamp duty, estate agent fees and relocation expenses, can add up quickly, which makes targeted improvements to your current home a more cost-effective option.

Hamilton also stresses the emotional value of staying in a home you love. “Are you just bored of your house and you could perhaps fall in love with it again with a lick of paint or a new bathroom?” she asks, showing how small changes can make a home feel completely refreshed.

Planning renovations carefully

Hamilton advises homeowners to plan carefully before deciding to move or renovate.

“Having a detailed spreadsheet comparing costs on both staying put and renovating or moving will really, really help you make your decision on what to do,” she explains. By breaking down potential costs for materials, labour and DIY projects homeowners can see clearly whether staying put will be more financially advantageous.

She also recommends focusing on improvements that are manageable and impactful. “Do things you can yourself. Get your paintbrush out and give that property a lick of paint,” Hamilton says.

She stresses that understanding which changes create the biggest impact can make homeowners feel like they are getting more value than an expensive move or extension ever could.

Small changes can make a big difference

For Hamilton, the secret to successful renovations is not doing everything at once but focusing on the changes that dramatically alter the home experience.

“Declutter. Make sure the property smells great. Create a great atmosphere that is going to make people want your home,” she says. She argues that these “micro-renovations” can completely change how you and visitors perceive a home without breaking the bank.

Hamilton’s experience shows that minor tweaks can transform a property from tired to irresistible. She says in 2026 homeowners who focus on the right improvements can dramatically increase both enjoyment and long-term value without the risk and cost of moving.

She explains all this and more on her new YouTube channel @PropertywithLauraHamilton.

Dreams of knocking through a wall, fitting a brand‑new kitchen or finally extending your home are looking far more achievable in 2026.

According to the latest Checkatrade Home Improvement Index, the average cost of a renovation has slumped by around 25% from its peak in 2023, driven by steadier material costs, less extreme wage inflation and keener competition among tradespeople.

For homeowners who’ve put projects on hold, and the builders keen to win more jobs, this shift couldn’t come at a better time.

Renovation jobs now cost less

Checkatrade’s analysis of millions of quotations from builders and trades professionals shows the median cost of a building job – whether internal wall removals, conversions or extensions – has fallen to around £6,000 this year, down from about £8,000 at the 2023 peak.

That represents typical savings of roughly £2,000 per project compared with two years ago.

Jambu Palaniappan, CEO of Checkatrade, said the shift reflects the disappearance of what the industry calls “supply risk premiums” – extra buffers that tradespeople used to add to quotes to protect against sudden spikes in material costs.

Now that building material prices are less volatile, many trades can quote more firmly and competitively, boosting confidence on both sides of the market.

Cheaper materials and stable labour costs

Official material price indicators show key components such as steel beams, imported plywood and aggregates like sand and gravel all cheaper year‑on‑year – a stark contrast to 2022–23 when materials seemed to change price weekly.

Meanwhile, construction wage inflation has cooled sharply, with modest rises well below the double‑digit peaks seen earlier in the decade.

Palaniappan said: “This is good news for homeowners, particularly those choosing to improve rather than move, as well as tradespeople. Lower material volatility and predictable labour costs mean projects are easier to plan and price, allowing builders to win more work and grow their businesses.”

Broader price falls across renovation types

The trend isn’t limited to building work. Recent Checkatrade data shows notable cost reductions across key improvement categories, with fitting and installation jobs such as bathroom, kitchen, and bedroom works all becoming more affordable compared with recent quarters.

This broad‑based easing reflects the wider shift towards pre‑pandemic norms in pricing, meaning those looking to renovate on a budget could be in for a welcome surprise.

For homeowners who’ve delayed work amid years of rising quotes, the message is clear; the window to take advantage of lower costs may be here. And for tradespeople, stable costs and milder competition for materials could support steadier, more sustainable work pipelines in 2026.

UK homeowners are quietly transforming their kitchens with subtle built-in features that make daily life easier, according to the 2026 Houzz Kitchen Trends Study.

During kitchen renovations, 82% of homeowners are integrating hidden organisation solutions, including pantry cabinets, pull-out organisers, and deep drawer systems.

These upgrades are designed to improve efficiency, maximise space, and tailor kitchens to how people actually live, without dramatically altering the room’s overall appearance.

Task-specific built-ins are becoming commonplace

More than four in five homeowners include speciality built-ins in their kitchen renovations, with many opting for zones designed for specific activities.

Beverage stations now appear in 12% of kitchens, baking stations in 5%, and 2% feature snack stations. Omar Bhatti, founder of Space Shack, an interior design studio, said: “When essentials have a clear home, it reduces clutter, improves efficiency and has a real impact on day-to-day quality of life.”

These task-specific zones signal a shift toward kitchens built for living, helping homeowners organise daily routines more smoothly while keeping the features discreet.

Hidden storage solutions are nearly universal

Speciality kitchen storage is a focus in almost all kitchen renovations, with 95% of homeowners integrating features such as cutlery organisers (78%), pull-out waste or recycling bins (55%), and deep drawer organisers (45%).

Corner carousels (29%) and pullout kitchen shelves (31%) turn previously wasted space into functional storage.

Bhatti added: “Thoughtfully designed built-in storage plays a critical role in helping the space function better for everyday use,” showing how these hidden features are practical enhancements rather than visual statements.

Layered hidden features are transforming kitchens

Homeowners are adding additional subtle upgrades that improve usability and efficiency.

Pantry cabinets are included in 40% of kitchens, walk-in pantries in 12%, and butler’s pantries or prep kitchens appear in 11%. Slab kitchen splashbacks feature in 71% of kitchens, helping to create easier-to-maintain surfaces.

Marine Sargsyan, head of economic research at Houzz, said: “With ageing housing stock and longer homeowner tenure, kitchens need to support how people actually live. Clever built-ins and practical layouts are becoming essential for day-to-day efficiency.”

These layered upgrades show that kitchen renovations in 2026 are focusing on functionality and organisation, creating smarter kitchens that support everyday living without drawing attention to the improvements.

If you’re planning on renovating your home – whether gutting an old property, extending its living space, or carrying out structural repairs – you may be able to avoid council tax while your home is uninhabitable.

Martin Lewis, founder of MoneySavingExpert.com, highlights on his website that empty homes undergoing “major repair work or structural alterations” may qualify for a temporary exemption or discount that many homeowners don’t realise exists.

With council tax often running into thousands of pounds for higher-band properties, knowing when and how to claim could make a substantial financial difference for self-builders, landlords refurbishing, or families undertaking long-term projects.

What home projects can make you exempt?

According to official UK government guidance, properties that are empty while undergoing major repairs or structural alterations to make them habitable may qualify for an exemption from council tax for up to 12 months.

Examples of renovations that can qualify include:

• Structural repairs or rebuilding of external walls, roof structures, or foundations.
• Extensions or adding new floors, which alter the physical fabric of the building.
• Accessibility adaptations for disabled occupants, such as new accessible bathrooms, widened doorways or downstairs bedrooms.

Work that generally does not qualify includes minor repairs, decorating, or routine kitchen and bathroom replacements, as these are considered cosmetic rather than structural.

Martin Lewis points out on MoneySavingExpert.com that if your property fits this category, you may be eligible for a council tax exemption for up to a year – a saving many homeowners overlook.

Why this makes you exempt and how much can you save

Council tax is calculated based on occupancy and habitability. If a home is empty and uninhabitable due to renovations, councils can treat it differently from a property you live in, potentially granting a full exemption or a significant discount.

The exact savings depend on your council tax band and local rates. For example, a Band D property could save over £1,000 per year, while Band E or F homes could save even more. These figures are based on typical 2026 council tax rates for England and Scotland, aligned with Martin Lewis’s examples on MoneySavingExpert.

Some councils may offer partial discounts if the property is empty and under renovation but does not meet the criteria for full exemption, so even if your work doesn’t qualify for a 12-month exemption, you could still save significantly.

Exemptions for council tax are not automatic

Although many homeowners do not have to pay council tax when renovating their homes, the process is not done automatically.

To claim a council tax exemption while your property is uninhabitable you need to review the official government guidance on empty property exemptions at Gov.uk.

You should also contact your local council’s council tax team before starting renovations to explain that your home will be uninhabitable due to major structural works.

Applications can typically be submitted online through your council’s portal or via email to the council tax office. Each council has slightly different processes, so check your local authority website for the correct forms. Once renovations are complete and the property is habitable again, notify the council so regular council tax charges resume.

Major structural renovations can trigger council tax relief, potentially saving homeowners £1,000s per year. Early application with your council and proper documentation is essential to secure exemptions or discounts, helping self-builders, renovators, and property owners reduce renovation costs while making their homes habitable again.

Imagine getting up to £30,000 to make your home safer, more accessible, and smarter, all without spending a penny of your own money.

The Disabled Facilities Grant (DFG) can help you fund stairlifts, ramps, accessible bathrooms, and smart home technologies that make daily life easier for older or disabled household members.

With a newly announced £50 million boost, thousands more homeowners could qualify in 2026, turning long‑planned renovations into reality while improving safety and independence.

What is the Disabled Facilities Grant and what can it be used for?

The Disabled Facilities Grant is a long-running, statutory government scheme delivered by local councils.

In England, eligible applicants can receive up to £30,000 per application to help cover the cost of home renovations that support independent living.

Adaptations funded through the DFG can include stairlifts, ramps, widened doorways, level-access showers, improved lighting, and smart or assistive technologies. For adults, the grant is means-tested based on income and savings, while adaptations for disabled children are not means-tested.

Why the government is increasing funding

The government has announced an extra £50 million for the Disabled Facilities Grant in 2025–26, bringing total funding to £761 million.

The additional funding is intended to help more people remain safely in their own homes for longer, while reducing pressure on health and care services by preventing falls and enabling quicker hospital discharges.

Millie Brown, Deputy Director for Homes at the Centre for Ageing Better, said: “We welcome the additional funding for the Disabled Facilities Grant [DFG] which will help thousands more people to feel safer in their own homes and to have greater independence.

“Improving accessibility and reducing the falls risk in people’s homes offers excellent value for taxpayers’ money. Every £1 spent on home improvements to reduce falls lead to £7.5 worth of savings for the health and care sector.”

Who may miss out – and what needs to change

Despite its benefits, awareness of the Disabled Facilities Grant remains low, and access to support can vary widely depending on where people live.

Application processes and local delivery services are inconsistent, which can make it harder for people on lower incomes or with limited support to benefit from the scheme.

Millie Brown added: “We know that the DFG can be a lifeline for people who are able to navigate the process, but the system is far from perfect.

“There is also a lack of awareness about what is available through the DFG scheme among those who might benefit, who is eligible and how to apply. Services at a local level to deliver home improvements are varied and patchy across the country.

She adds that: “Establishing a national network of one-stop shops known as Good Home Hubs would create a trustworthy and reliable source of information to access advice and support on this issue for residents regardless of where they lived.”

Whether you’re planning a stairlift, a new ramp, or a full accessible bathroom, the Disabled Facilities Grant could cover the costs and help you renovate on a budget while making your home safer and more comfortable.

Funding is distributed through local councils, so it’s worth checking your eligibility early and getting advice on the application process.

With the government’s latest £50 million boost, now could be the perfect time to turn your home improvement plans into reality - improving safety, independence, and accessibility without breaking the bank.

If you find knowing where to start with your home renovation and improvements overwhelming, it's understandable given there are lots of options available to you. Plus, it's even more important if you're renovating to sell at some point in the future.

To help kick start your plans, we asked industry experts what their predictions are for the jobs, features or changes homeowners are prioritising in 2026. After all, understanding what people are prioritising can help you narrow down what you need or want to do in your home.

From elevating flooring, to drilling down into how your home performs, here's what you can expect to see homeowners prioritising in 2026.

1. Zoning will replace open plan layouts

While open plan living was once the most popular layout for homeowners looking to extend, renovate, or even self build, recent years have seen a decline in the appeal of the one-space-suits-all approach.

Whether this was triggered by the realisation that everyone trying to operate in one space during the pandemic was untenable, or the fact we prefer our homes to be sanctuaries full of cosy corners, we now look to broken plan layouts more.

“In 2026 homeowners are prioritising homes that are simpler to run, more comfortable in every season, and more adaptable to changing routines," says Ran Ankory, founder and managing director of Scenario Architecture.

"We are being commissioned for more full house renovations where the brief is not just a new kitchen or a prettier finish, but a genuine upgrade in how the home performs and how it supports day to day life.

“We are seeing a clear shift toward purposeful re-planning of spaces," he continues. "Homeowners want better zoning rather than one vast open space, so the house can shift between family life, focused work, and hosting without feeling cluttered or noisy.

"Families need spaces that can shift throughout the day: school bags and homework after 4pm, cooking and connection in the evening, and calm corners when the house is busy at the weekend," he explains.

It's also a trend that's been noticed by Emily Newmarch, design consultant at Kitchens by Holloways

“We’re seeing homeowners take a more holistic view of their homes, focusing on the flow of entire ground floors rather than just single rooms," she agrees.

But does the requirement for zones, or enclosed rooms mean we will be extending our homes more? Not necessarily says Emily. "People want smarter use of space, meaning often a reconfiguration is just as powerful as an extension.”

Shop room divider solutions to help with zoning

2. Bathrooms are most likely to get a glow-up

When it comes to the room homeowners will prioritise in 2026, according to recent research from Wickes, nearly a third (31%) of us are hoping to tackle a bathroom renovation this year.

So what can you do if this is top of your priorities too? A good place to start is by looking into bathroom trends, as this will partially dictate what you will find to buy for your bathroom. Do you want a wet room or a walk-in shower? Is a freestanding bath your goal, or is a luxury bathroom a must?

Whatever your final specification, make sure you get granular on the details says Grazzie Wilson, creative director at Ca' Pietra.

"It's the detailing that quietly completes a bathroom," she says. "Grout colour for example alters the tone of the design; a gentle, tonal shade allows the tile to settle into the space, while a contrasting line draws attention to pattern or geometry.

"Trims and edge treatments should feel integrated, especially where tiled areas meet painted walls or the adjoining room. In older properties, tiles can complement the architectural language by adjusting the layout or choosing materials that echo the era without feeling pastiche," suggests Grazzie.

Not in need of a bathroom upgrade? It's perhaps no surprise that according to the Wickes survey which questioned 2000 homeowners, 23% of us will instead be looking at a kitchen renovation, 17% at enhancing home storage, while garden landscaping ideas will also be on the cards for 17% of homes.

3. Kitchens will have to work harder and smarter

But, it's not just any kitchen upgrade that homeowners are seeking in 2026 say the experts. In much the same way that we are taking a holistic approach to our overall home improvements, so we are looking at kitchens through a larger lens.

"Clients want kitchens that work harder with walk in pantries, utility rooms and clever storage built in from the start," confirms Ran Ankory. As the most expensive room to renovate in a house, it's perhaps no surprise that we expect the most we can get for our money.

"There’s certainly a strong appetite for multifunctional spaces such as open-plan kitchen-living areas, sculleries, walk-in pantries and utility rooms that double as boot rooms," agrees Emily Newmarch.

"We predict kitchen-led renovations will continue to dominate, and glazing choices that maximise light, such as structural glass or slim-frame sliding doors, will remain extremely popular," adds Emily.

4. Energy efficiency and sustainability take centre stage

"It’s also important to look beyond aesthetics," says Wickes design consultant, Sarah-Jayne Thorne, and it's something homeowners are prioritising in 2026 as well.

"15% of the homeowners we surveyed are looking to embrace smart and energy-efficient upgrades such as smart thermostats and smart lighting offering both comfort and long-term savings," she explains.

However, rising energy bills coupled with changing climate conditions also mean we will need to consider how our homes perform in all weathers.

“Energy and climate resilience are now central to the conversation, and will continue to be so," says Ran Ankory. But, while once mainly about ways of keeping warm, it's no longer the case.

"Clients are also more aware of overheating risk in summer and want upgrades that deliver real comfort, not just new glazing," says Ran.

“In support of this focus on energy efficiency, clients are also choosing sustainable, long-lasting materials and being much more considered with where their money is invested," adds Emily Newmarch.

5. Wave goodbye to boring and bland colours

Despite Pantone revealing Cloud Dancer as its Colour of the Year 2026 – a soft shade of off-white – it's not really in line with other paint trends, or indeed what colours homeowners say they will be using this year.

"With 72% of homeowners rejecting the grey, cream and off-white colour trend, 2026 is all about colour," predicts Sarah-Jayne Thorne.

If you're in agreement with bland colours being old news, Sarah-Jayne suggests, "injecting bold colours and experimenting with popular hues such as olive green, teal, duck egg blue, sage or sunshine yellow to instantly revive your interiors and help create a more personalised look."

6. Flooring is flipped into the spotlight

While ceilings were a focus in 2025, with colour drenching and colour capping drawing our gaze upwards, according to the consumer activity flooring suppliers are seeing in their showrooms, we'll turn it in the opposite direction in 2026.

"Homeowners are becoming increasingly braver with their flooring choices, using it to inject personality and create a sense of individuality," Ian Tomlinson, MD of Chaunceys Timber Flooring tells us.

"We predict they will continue to mix different patterns and formats, pairing herringbone in one room with wide planks in another, or using dark floors as a backdrop to bold wall colours.

"This approach allows flooring to define zones in open plan spaces and bring visual rhythm to a home," he adds, perfectly in-keeping with our architect's prediction that zoned layouts will be integral.

"Patterned layouts are also evolving, with chevron, parquet blocks and custom inlays emerging as exciting ways to make a statement. The floor is no longer a background surface but a key feature that shapes the entire mood of a space," adds Ian.

"Wood drenching, an interior design trend that wraps timber across floors, walls and even ceilings, is also gaining popularity," he says, "showing that flooring is no longer just a backdrop, it’s a playful, expressive element that helps make a home feel personal and truly lived in."

7. Bedrooms will be redesigned as retreats

"It’s been fascinating to see how homeowners’ priorities are evolving as we head into 2026, and the bedroom is really coming into its own as a space people want to get right," says Kate Palmer, creative director at The Painted Furniture Company.

"What we’re noticing is that it’s less about following a specific style and more about creating a true retreat within the home. There’s a real shift toward bedrooms that help you unwind, with richer bedroom colours, natural and earthy palettes, and thoughtful touches that make the space feel really personal.

"People are also rethinking how they use their bedrooms," she continues, "with clever bedroom lighting and cosy nooks that support better sleep and daily routines, and design choices that reflect individual tastes rather than a one‑size‑fits‑all approach.

"Furniture that can be tailored to a person’s lifestyle, customised to fit the space perfectly or painted in colours that bring a sense of warmth really help make a bedroom feel like it belongs to the person living in it.

"It feels like a lovely moment for bedroom design in 2026" Kate concludes, "focusing on wellbeing, warmth and personal expression in a way that makes a big difference to day‑to‑day living."

8. Lighting design will be carefully considered

As we continue to spend more time at home, lighting design will continue to grow in importance in 2026. Long gone are the days of a few spotlights, table lamps and a floor lamp being sufficient. Instead, the impact on how it makes us feel and how it can really make or break a successful scheme will make it an important priority in 2026 home improvements.

"There's no doubt we are seeing an increasing number of homeowners realising the importance in lighting and therefore prioritising it with interior updates in 2026," says James Kendal, operations director at KES Lighting & Home.

"We recommend starting with ensuring each room has a balance of ambient, task and accent lighting. Layering light helps define spaces, create atmosphere and highlight architectural features.

"Replacing a single overhead fitting with a mix of wall lights, table lamps and floor lamps instantly adds depth and warmth," he suggests, "while small updates like upgrading old fittings or adding statement pendants in the kitchen and hallway can make a home feel more refined and contemporary without significant expense.

Kerb appeal also benefits from thoughtful lighting," adds James. "Exterior wall lights or discreet garden lighting can transform how a property looks and feels at night, so don't forget to make this a priority too when making home improvements in 2026."

9. We'll undertake quick DIY projects for easy wins

For those homeowners who don't need to make massive changes, there's also a whole host of quick and easy upgrades you can prioritise in 2026 say the experts. And if we look at the stats from the Wickes survey, there's plenty of DIY projects we will be tackling in order to add more character and individuality to our homes.

"With 92% of Brits seeking quick, affordable ways to make their homes feel new again, an efficient way to do this is to look at storage space," suggest Sarah-Jayne Thorne. "Removing clutter from kitchen work tops for example can really help a space to feel fresh again."

But, if you feel the need for something a little more adventurous, why not be inspired but these other projects homeowners say they will be tackling in 2026:

• Paint the kitchen - 19%
• A garden make-over - 17%
• Create an outdoor entertaining space - 13%
• Install a kitchen island with social seating - 12%
• A spare room makeover - 12%
• Install smart home tech - 12%
• Design a home office space - 7%
• Build a home library - 6%
• Build an outdoor kitchen - 4%
• Add a cocktail bar or beer tap - 3%

Looking to achieve something more substantial with your home improvement plans in 2026? Start by using this advice from Ran Ankory to see what and where you need to make changes.

“Our starting point is always the client’s living scenarios. When you understand who wakes first, where bags land, how cooking and homework overlap, and where you want to retreat, the home’s layout becomes seamless and intuitive.”

And, if this reveals you actually need to add more rooms to your home, take a look at the different types of loft conversion to see if this could provide you with a solution. Or, for more living space, if your kitchen is already functioning as you need, why not think about a living room extension idea instead?

Having a clear idea of what to scrap and what to save when renovating a house can not only help you save money on your project, but will also ensure none of the character of the property, that may have drawn you to take it on in the first place, is lost.

While not all renovation projects come packed with beautiful original features it still pays to be aware of those that are worth holding on to, not just from a cost-saving point of view, but from a planet-friendly one too. Likewise, knowing when to dispose of certain elements can help ensure the structural integrity of a house.

If you have just taken on a doer-upper and are keen to save some pennies, as well as the character of your project, our guide is just what you need.

What to save when renovating a house

There is obviously a big difference between renovating a Victorian house and tackling something more modern such as one built in the 1970s. Not only will they each come with their own set of pros and cons, but they will also have different architectural features to consider saving.

In the case of some houses it is important to do everything possible to maintain their character and charm, while others have none to maintain.

That said, even where there is lack of beautiful details to look after, there can still be materials worth saving. Here's what the expert we spoke to recommended holding on to at all costs.

1. Original flooring

If you are lucky enough to have bought a house with original flooring still in place, it really is well worth renovating old floors to bring them back to their former glory. Not only are new floors going to eat into your overall budget, but, depending on the type of flooring you have, keeping them could really enhance your interiors.

"Try to save original floorboards, especially old pine or oak, as they have great character," advises Lewis Johnson, director at Cheshire Home Upgrades. "It's worth it to sand, repair and re-finish so long as they aren't rotting or infested with woodworm. Also, if they've already been over-sanded or they're really thin and flimsy then it's unfortunately better to replace them."

Restoring parquet floors is another task well worth the undertaking, although it can be a little trickier than with plank flooring.

2. Staircases

A staircase is such a prominent feature within a house and, if it was installed when the property was built, will often add so much in the way of character – even if you are renovating a 1950s house.

"Well built staircases are expensive so fixing creaks and replacing a few spindles on the balustrade is a lot cheaper than replacing the whole thing," points out Lewis Johnson.

However, renovating a staircase can be complex. In some cases, it won't be possible to save the whole structure but, retaining what you can, combining it with new sections, is often a good compromise.

"If the staircase is loose or out of level then we would keep the handrail or replicate its style and rebuild the frame," says Lewis.

3. Fireplaces

Before central heating became commonplace in homes, open fires or stoves, fuelled by wood or coal, were relied on as a way of keeping their occupants warm.

If your home was built before the late 1950 or early 1960s, when central heating began to be installed in more properties, it is likely it will have had a fireplace, even if it has since been ripped out. If you do find an original, restoring a fireplace is highly recommended.

"Even if you're not putting a proper fire in there, some people like a fireplace for decorative purposes," points out Lewis Johnson. "Some homeowners remove them to make the room a bit bigger but I personally think they should be kept in place."

4. Period windows

Windows are such an important 'facial feature' of a house – meaning swapping them for something different can totally ruin its overall appearance.

Original windows won't always have been retained, but if you live in a period house with timber or Crittall windows still in place, window repair is almost always preferable to replacement.

"I'd keep windows and replace sashes, panes or cords if needed," picks up Lewis Johnson. "However, if the frame is completely rotten then it's probably not worth the money to keep maintaining old windows. In this case it would be better to do a full replacement with windows that still suit the property."

5. Internal and external doors

As with windows, the doors that the house was designed to have will usually be the ones that suit it best.

This is particularly true of exterior doors, especially when it comes to front door ideas. Swapping an original timber front door for a uPVC modern design will always look wrong.

Of course, some house styles, such as post-war properties built when housebuilders were doing everything they could to keep costs low, will have little in the way of decorative flourishes. In this case, it can be better to use the very plain form as a base on which to build something more contemporary.

What to scrap in a house renovation

Whether you are renovating a Georgian house packed full of beautiful original features or a boxy 1970s building, there will be some elements that it just won't be worth saving.

This could be as the costs involved in doing so are too high to make restoration worthwhile when compared with replacement. In other cases, it might be that they play an important structural role and to save them rather than replace them with new could put the house at risk.

1. Old wiring and plumbing

It is rare to find an older house in need of modernising that has up-to-date electrics and plumbing. In many instances rewiring of the whole house will be needed and, in the case of plumbing, new bathrooms, kitchens and heating systems will usually call for a new set-up anyway.

"Old wiring and fuse boards never work as well as modern equipment does," says Lewis Johnson. "Same goes for old plumbing and heating. Modern stuff is just better."

When adding new circuits, fixtures and fittings you might find that a new consumer unit and electrics will be a requirement of the building regulations too.

2. Worn out roof tiles

This is a tricky one. If you are building an extension onto a period house, or need to carry out repairs to the roof, you might well want to source reclaimed roof tiles to tie in with the originals. You do need to take care when buying salvaged roof tiles, however, as not all will be in sound condition. But how about re-using what you already have?

"Clay and slate roof tiles can be reused for patch repairs but anything damaged just isn't worth saving," advises Lewis Johnson. "A full re-roof would mean you can update your felt, battens and insulation all at once."

3. Modern additions

If you are buying a house to renovate you should expect that, over the years, it is likely that your project will have have had some upgrades carried out by previous owners. Some of these might have been done to a high standard and in a manner that is in keeping with its style – but others might have been a little more slapdash or unsympathetic in their execution.

"Get rid of add-ons such as like cheap uPVC doors, porches and flimsy stud partition walls," says Lewis Johnson.

Other misguided improvements often include fireplaces that look totally at odds with the rest of the house's features (the tiled 1950s design in our Edwardian house being a good example).

FAQs

How to repair skirting boards?

If you have original skirting boards in place within your renovation it will be well worth retaining them. However, in many cases, this is one area of a house that suffers from wear and tear over the years, so it might be necessary to carry out some repairs.

If you plan on painting skirting boards, you can fill gaps and dents using filler or caulk, before sanding and priming.

However, in some cases, where sections are too badly damaged or are missing completely, you will need to find a matching replacement. If you can't find anything suitable off-the-shelf, there are plenty of suppliers out there who will custom make skirting to match, although this will be a more expensive option.

Brick and stonework on old houses will often need a little attention when renovating, but it is the mortar that will usually require more. Repointing brickwork should be a job high up on your to-list as it will prevent water ingress from damaging the fabric of your home.

While they might be lacking the architectural aesthetics of homes from earlier periods, before you discount renovating a 1950s house completely, make sure you have explored their pros as well as their cons.

If you are considering renovating a house and are on the lookout for something to stamp your personality onto, this style of property could just be the thing for you. While post-war era houses that were built in the 1950s tended to lack the decorative flourishes of those that had gone before, there was a strong focus on building something solid, on good-sized plots with practical family spaces internally.

To ensure you keep an open mind when hunting for your next project, we asked the architects for their views on the pros and cons of 1950s houses – here's what they had to say.

Advantages of 1950s house renovations

1. They come with a lower price tag

Because they tend not to be as immediately desirable as properties built earlier, such as in the Georgian, Victorian or Edwardian eras, 1950s houses in need of renovation are often cheaper, as well as being easier to snap up due to less competition – removing the stress from buying a house.

"1950s houses don’t often command the same price tags of earlier eras but this should not be a reason to be put off them," says architect Tina Patel of Architect Your Home. "They can be very adaptable."

"From experience, 1950s homes are generally more affordable to buy and cheaper to renovate than Victorian or Georgian properties," picks up estate agent Liam Gretton, founder of Liam Gretton, Wirral Estate Agent. "After the war, homes were built quickly to meet a growing housing demand, often with similar layouts and simpler materials throughout.

"Victorian and Georgian homes, on the other hand, usually command a premium price tag because of their character," continues Liam. "Buyers will often pay more for those period features, high ceilings, bay windows and ornate brickwork – even at times if they require more long term maintenance.

"There’s a clear trade-off, 1950s homes offer practicality, at times slightly larger plots, in addition to a renovation potential at a more accessible price point, while period homes are all about charm, heritage, and that emotional pull that’s hard to recreate."

2. They are solidly built

Despite the lack of architectural detail that often goes hand-in-hand with houses of this period, they are usually reassuringly well-constructed, making them great blank canvasses.

"The build generally tends to be solid and is unlikely to have much external ornamentation that you need to replicate," points out Tina Patel. "They have solid walls and relatively straightforward structural considerations (assuming the house has not been changed too much over the years). That said, they can be uninsulated so you may want to consider upgrading the fabric of the building to allow for better thermal efficiency."

It is worth noting that when buying any style of property to modernise, you should always have a building survey carried out – ideally a comprehensive home buyers report.

3. 1950s features are something to be saved

Over the years, 1950s interior design has fallen in and out of favour, yet right now, original features from the period are definitely something to be prized.

Chunky, beige or grey tiled fireplaces were at one time unceremoniously torn out, pastel kitchen units and appliances resigned to the skip and you could forget metal-framed Crittall windows. Now, however, these mid-century modern features are back on many homeowners' wish lists – so if you are lucky to find them in your doer-upper, restore them at all costs.

"You may also find original solid parquet flooring and other 'early-modern' features that are now considered desirable," adds architect David Nossiter of David Nossiter Architects.

4. Garage conversions might be a possibility

Something that homeowners of the 1950s valued more than we seem to these days is somewhere to house their cars safely away from the elements.

"1950s houses were often designed with car ownership in mind, so a garage is typically included," explains David Nossiter.

While these garages were commonly detached, some would have been integral. Either way, this opens up the opportunity to carry out a garage conversion – a fantastic way to add space to a house without encroaching on the garden, and often more affordable than an extension.

5. Planners are less strict with them

While many period properties are listed, making getting planning permission a little more complex, this is not usually the case with 1950s houses.

"These houses are less likely to be in conservation areas and have historic fabric so councils are often more amenable to quirky and different solutions," advises Tina Patel.

This gives homeowners more freedom when it comes to the changes they want to make, be that upgrading windows, extending to the front of a house or changing the cladding completely.

6. They are simpler to extend

If, as part of your renovation plans, you want to add space to your home, this can be a little more straightforward in the case of a 1950s house than with some other house styles, according to Tina Patel.

"These houses are often quite square and flat in form, with reasonable sized rooms and this can make adding space simpler," explains Tina. "As a result, adding two storey extensions to the rear, completely transforming the house both internally and externally, can be possible – especially since their gardens tend to be quite generous."

It is worth noting too that, in terms of extension costs, it can make more sense to add a two storey extension due to the fact that the two most expensive elements – the roof and the foundations – have to be budgeted for regardless of the number of storeys.

Disadvantages of 1950s house renovations

1. They can be hard to insulate

While the solid construction of 1950s houses is most certainly one of their plus points, it does also mean that many were not insulated particularly well – certainly not by today's standards.

"1950’s houses tend to be strong, well-built properties but were often constructed with solid brick walls containing no insulation other than a small air gap," explains Ed Martin, director at Delve Architects. "A big decision for our clients is whether to add insulation externally and render, changing the property's appearance. Alternatively we can insulate the main external walls internally, but lose space in key rooms."

"1950s houses are likely to have some loft insulation, though floor insulation is often minimal," adds David Nossiter.

2. A good connection with outdoors can be lacking

Post-war houses were definitely built in the most cost-effective way possible. Not only does this mean that they rarely feature much in the way of architectural decoration, but also that a general restraint was exercised in terms of their features overall.

"These properties have small windows and door openings, with a lack of direct access to rear gardens," says Ed Martin. "We often look to try and adapt the houses to 21st Century family life with larger, more social rooms and glazing on the rear elevation giving access to the greenery beyond."

Glass box extensions tend to suit the square form of these buildings, while larger runs of sliding doors will also help draw in light. Internally, consider swapping solid doors for metal-framed glazed designs – a nice nod to the metal windows that would often have been used around this time.

4. Ceiling heights could be an issue

Unlike their Georgian and Victorian predecessors, 1950s houses were not built with grand, high ceilings.

"Ceiling heights began to drop during this period as Modernist influences grew, so some houses show a blend of interwar design elements alongside features more typical of the 1960s and 1970s," explains David Nossiter.

"Floor-to-ceiling heights tend to be lower and you may struggle to have enough height in the loft to convert the space – so if you are considering buying a 1950s house with a view to do a loft conversion to get that extra bedroom, check the height at loft level before committing," picks up Tina Patel.

"An insulated loft from the deck level to the uppermost area where you normally have the ridge of the roof internally needs to be at least 2.5m to allow for insulation and structural build up. If you don’t have this you may need to lower the ceiling which, in itself, often is not possible as the windows at first floor are commonly tight up to the ceiling. There are creative ways around this but it does need to be carefully considered."

FAQs

Do 1950s houses have asbestos?

The use of asbestos in various areas of houses was widespread right up until 2000, although it was most common in the 1950s right up until the 1980s.

While shouldn't avoid buying a house with asbestos, you need to approach it with care.

"Any removal should be handled by specialists and any suspected materials tested," says David Nossiter.

Whether you are most interested in Victorian terraces or 1970s detached houses, it is vital that you understand how to assess a home for renovation before getting carried away. Structural defects are not always immediately obvious.

I went into my house renovation feeling prepared – or at least, as prepared as someone with a mood board and a spreadsheet can feel. What I wasn’t ready for were the many curveballs I'd end up facing: the decisions you have to make before you’ve had your morning coffee, the dust that settles in places you didn’t even know existed, and the emotional rollercoaster that comes with watching your home fall apart before it comes back together.

These are the bits no one tells you about renovating, but they’re the things you’ll absolutely wish you had known from the start. After living through my fair share of chaos, surprises and “why didn’t anyone warn me?” moments, I’ve gathered the lessons that actually matter, and I’m sharing them all here.

1. Skipping the groundwork will cost you – every time

The first lesson no one tells you about renovating is that the unglamorous prep work is non-negotiable. Before you even think about finishes, you need to know your home’s structural condition, moisture levels, electrics, plumbing routes, insulation gaps – all the invisible elements that make a home function safely. It’s tempting to bolt ahead to the “fun” stages, but poor groundwork shows up later as blown budgets and failed finishes.

The minute we stripped back the plaster in one renovation, we found everything from flint walls held together with what looked like soil, to wiring that had clearly been added in whatever decade felt convenient at the time. At one point, we had entire sections of floor removed just to understand what was supporting what – and it turned out not much was supporting anything at all.

Groundwork isn’t glamorous, but it’s the part that saves you from disastrous surprises later. Levelling subfloors, assessing structural junctions, tracing original service routes, checking for damp, confirming what’s load-bearing – it’s all essential. I once rushed ahead on a room thinking it ‘just needed skimming’, only to uncover a wall full of crumbling mortar and a ceiling that was hanging on by habit.

Remember, your finishes are only as good as the layers beneath them. Get this stage right, and everything else flows. Cut corners, and you’ll be revisiting the same jobs twice, usually at twice the cost.

2. Quotes only stay fixed if the brief does

One of the earliest budgeting lessons I learnt is that a quote is only as fixed as the plan you hand over. The moment you change the brief – even slightly – the numbers shift too.

I was guilty of this. I’d approve a quote for rewiring, then ask if we could add an extra socket here or move a switch there. Or I’d sign off the plastering cost, then decide that since the wall was already open, we might as well insulate it properly. Each tiny adjustment felt harmless, but every change affected the renovation costs because the scope of the job had evolved.

And it’s not just scope that shifts things. As Izzy Taylor-Wood, MD at Woody’s Concrete Co. points out, “Cheaper isn’t (always) better. The lowest quote can cost far more once you factor in rework, poor preparation or mismatched expectations.” It’s a reminder that sometimes the “expensive” quote isn’t expensive at all, it’s simply realistic.

Timelines follow the same logic. We tend to treat dates as fixed, but as Izzy says, “A fixed date is never a guaranteed date; delivery and installation targets are always estimates because homes are unpredictable environments.”

As frustrating as it can feel, contractors aren’t being awkward when they revise a quote or shuffle the schedule – they’re costing and sequencing the work you’re now asking them to do. The best thing you can do is lock down your specification early, be clear about what you want, and resist the temptation to tweak things mid-build unless you’re prepared for the financial knock-on effect. A clear brief from the start is the only real way to keep your renovation costs on track.

3. Scams and poor workmanship are on the rise

Something I didn’t expect when I started renovating was just how vigilant you have to be when hiring builders. Scams, inflated quotes and poor workmanship have all become more commonplace, especially as demand for trades has surged.

Becky Lane, founder of Furbnow, has spoken a lot about this – particularly the rise in unqualified contractors offering quick fixes that sound good but don’t meet building standards, or worse, make your home less safe. Her advice is simple but spot-on:

“The best protection is to do some simple checks. Look the company up on Companies House, check how long they have been trading and whether they file accounts," she says. "Read independent reviews rather than testimonials on a website and always ask to speak to a real customer who has used them recently. Even if the work is grant-funded, remember it is still your home. If something doesn’t feel right, pause. A reputable company will always be happy to provide evidence of good work.”

I’ve had my own close calls. From installers who couldn’t explain their own methods to contractors trying to skip essential steps “to save time”. If someone becomes defensive when I ask for proof of insurance, references or certification, that’s my cue to walk away. Whether I'm trying to find a builder, hiring a plumber, or choosing an electrician, I try to verify their qualifications and make sure everything is in writing.

4. Old houses don’t behave how you expect

One of the biggest shocks of renovating an older home is realising it has its own logic and it rarely matches yours. Nothing is straight, level or predictable. Walls are a patchwork of materials from different eras and floors dip in places you swear weren’t dipping yesterday.

I’ve renovated listed buildings, and they come with an entirely different rule book. Lime-based materials, breathable construction, listed building consent, and conservation approvals – the moment you think you understand one quirk, another pops up. My favourite discovery was a centuries-old patch repair hiding behind a modern skim, sitting right next to wiring that definitely wasn’t installed in the same century.

Old houses expand and contract with the seasons, reveal fresh surprises whenever you lift something, and demand materials that work with them, not against them. If you’re renovating a period property or extending a listed building, accept that your home has a personality of its own, and the process becomes far more enjoyable.

5. Damp is often worse than you realise

One problem that reveals its true colours only when you start peeling things back is damp. On the surface, you might see a faint tide mark or a bit of bubbling paint. But once we stripped our walls, we found entire sections where old tanking had failed, bitumen coatings were trapping moisture, and patches of plaster were literally crumbling away in our hands

I've found that older houses handle moisture completely differently because lime walls need to breathe, whereas modern gypsum doesn’t. Past owners often try to “fix” damp with quick, incompatible solutions like cement renders, vinyl paints, or a random attempt at waterproofing that just pushes moisture somewhere else. We had all of those and undoing historic mistakes takes far longer than doing it right from the start.

My advice is to treat damp as a whole-house issue: ventilation, materials, drainage, exterior levels, guttering, the lot. And if you’re not sure what you’re looking at, bring in someone who is. A good surveyor, conservation specialist or damp expert can save you from pouring money into the wrong fix.

6. The house will always look worse before it looks better

There’s a point in every renovation when you walk into a room and think, “What have I done?” For me, it was the day the ceilings were down to bare joists, the floors were lifted clean out, and every wall was stripped back to a chaotic mix of flint and rubble. It certainly didn’t feel like progress, as it looked like we’d accidentally demolished the place.

But that awful in-between stage is totally normal. Once you start rewiring, insulating, levelling floors or tackling damp, the house has to go backwards before it can move forwards. Thankfully, this is the phase where all the important upgrades happen: structure, safety, insulation, performance. If it looks dramatically worse, it usually means you’re doing it right.

Staying closely in touch with your architect and contractors at this stage really helps; regular check-ins keep you grounded in what’s progressing, what’s waiting on decisions, and what needs your approval next. As Izzy Taylor-Wood advises, “Ask all your questions upfront; there are no silly questions, and clarity early on prevents disappointment later.” The more you understand what’s happening behind the scenes, the less overwhelming this messy middle feels.

7. Hard floors are louder than you think, so make sure you soundproof

I knew hard floors would update my space, but I didn’t expect the noise. Suddenly every footstep, scrape and echo felt amplified. Graeme Shelley, managing director at Factory Direct Flooring, says this catches most renovators off guard: “Hard floors are easier to clean, but they instantly make a home noisier. It’s worth thinking about soundproofing before you lay them.” Acoustic vinyl and LVT perform surprisingly well, especially with the right underlay, reducing noise by up to 22dB. Laminate flooring, Graeme warns, tends to be louder unless paired with a high-dB underlay or softened with rugs.

And as Adam Robertson, managing director of Urbane Living, points out, you shouldn’t compromise on quality just to save on flooring costs: “One of the most common mistakes we see is homeowners focusing too heavily on cost when choosing flooring. While budget is of course a consideration, opting for the cheapest option often means compromising on quality.” He adds that a thin wear layer can drastically shorten the lifespan of engineered wood, while a substantial wear layer and a durable finish will keep a floor looking good and performing well for decades.

If you’re investing in hard floors, plan your soundproofing and choose the best quality type of flooring your budget allows. It’s worth it every single day you walk across them.

8. Trend-led decisions date fast

I’ve fallen for a few interior trends in my time (thanks, Instagram) but the problem with trendy concepts and finishes is that they age surprisingly quickly once they’re part of your actual home.

Charlotte Saunders, interior designer at OKA, summed this up perfectly when she told me: “We can avoid the more fleeting décor trends by asking ourselves whether they’re going to stand the test of time, or whether it’s something we would add to our living room had it not been trending. If the answer is no, then I’d advise against it.”

She’s right. Trends are fun, but they move fast. As Charlotte put it, “animal print, nautical-themed pieces, or word art” have all had their moments but it’s not always the motif itself that dates; it’s how heavily it’s used. Her advice is to use trend-led accents sparingly: “I love a cheetah print but find it’s best to keep it to a select few pieces. This balance naturally feels more ‘tasteful’ and will stand the test of time.”

For me, the sweet spot is timeless foundations with trend-led layers. Floors, tiles, joinery and cabinetry should be choices you’ll still love in a decade. The personality – cushions, lamps, artwork, textiles – can change as your taste evolves.

9. Mood and wellbeing matter more than you expect

Renovating for a long period of time can chip away at your mood far more than you think. Some days you feel unstoppable; other days one delay has you questioning every choice you’ve made. And it doesn’t just affect you either. Graeme Shelley from Factory Direct Flooring told me their research found that DIY can spark domestic disagreements:

“Women often trust themselves with DIY more than their partners,” he says – 67% wouldn’t hand over a kitchen or bathroom install, and more than half wouldn’t trust their partner to pick soft furnishings or paint colours. Speaking from experience, I get it. But it’s also the perfect example of why communication is everything during a renovation.

Graeme’s advice is to talk honestly about expectations before anyone picks up a tool, be realistic about your skill levels, and don’t be afraid to bring in the professionals when the job (or the stress) gets too big.

Keen to feel more prepared before diving into your own home renovation? Explore our guide to planning permission to understand what work needs approval, and brush up on building regulations so you know exactly what standards your project must meet.

If the start of a new year brings with it the prospect of renovating a house, you're not alone. It's one of the most common times of year for homeowners to decide it's time for a makeover.

Crowded homes over the festivities, coupled with the fact you've had a bit more time to swoon over other people's homes on social media, in magazines and spend hours trawling Pinterest (or maybe that's just me), can mean you finally decide it's time to do something about your growing house envy.

Or, perhaps you're about to pick up the keys for a new project and you're not sure where to start. Either way, we've pulled together a simple 4-step plan to help you get ahead of the game in January, to ensure your renovation goes smoothly.

1. Declutter your current home

Although it might feel pointless when you're potentially about to live through chaos, decluttering your home in January is perfect if you're planning a renovation in 2026.

Even if it's not the house you're going to be renovating, it's still worth doing. Why? It may help you realise you need less (or more) space than you first thought. Plus, getting dug into a great Christmas clear-out it will have the added bonus of giving you additional space to store any new items you buy, while selling stuff you don't want to increase your renovation budget.

"Start cleaning out your home as soon as you've determined you are going to renovate in 2026," says Jessica Smith, interior designer and founder of Curated Spaces.

"When we’re busy, we often don’t realise how much of a good clear out we actually need, and seeing the extra space you create doesn’t mean you don’t need to renovate, but it can often mean you’re going in with a much clearer head about exactly what you need to fit into your new space."

So much so that it could mean you realise you do need to put aside more money for bespoke fitted furniture, or perhaps it's time to accept you need to start looking at dressing room ideas rather than bedroom wardrobe ideas.

On the flipside, streamlining your belongings could also bring with it the realisation that you could actually get away with a small kitchen and squeeze in a bootility room instead.

Plus it's a chance to get your loft storage in order so you have somewhere safe to put your belongings if you're planning on living on site while renovating.

Shop these storage items to help when you declutter

2. Finalise your mood boards and must-haves

January is also the perfect time to hone in on all the ideas you've been collating to decide what makes the cut and what doesn't. Take a final look at the interior design trends for the year ahead in case there's something you want to add. Or, if your renovation plans are more room specific, do the final round up of kitchen trends for example, then, get down to business.

Group your ideas by room, and make sure you identity between your 'must-haves' and 'would-like-to-haves'. Get samples of products such as wallpaper, tiles, flooring and paint as it's vital you don't just rely on online images when making choices.

You could also try out the best home design apps to see how some of your ideas might loook when executed, but do remember that screen images are rarely a fully accurate representation of what products look and feel like in person. Real items are impacted by things such as changing light in a room, and a paint colour can change when you add in the flooring and tiles alongside it.

We're not saying you can't change your mind at any point further down the line, but there comes a point in any renovation scheme when altering things will start increasing your house renovation costs. Being clear from the off will help to reduce that risk.

3. Start assembling your team

If your renovation requires calling in the professionals, January is a great time to start assembling your team. Most good builders, contractors and specialist suppliers will have their diaries filled up for the start of the year, but could well be looking for work further down the line.

"January is the right time to get a proper survey done and put the work in order of importance: structure first, then services, then aesthetics," suggests Clive Holland, build expert and Fix Radio broadcaster. "That way you are planning properly rather than reacting later on.”

“January is the perfect time to begin design discussions, set a realistic budget and engage a specialist early," agrees Emily Newmarch, design consultant at Kitchens by Holloways, a company that also undertakes whole home renovation projects and extensions.

"The first 2–3 months of any renovation project are typically spent on design work, developing architectural drawings and aligning the scope with the budget," she confirms.

“The biggest wins come from early clarity on the brief, early surveys, and early decisions on your performance target, because those choices shape the design, the programme and the budget," expands Ran Ankory, founder and managing director of Scenario Architecture.

To get off to the best start, appoint your core team as early as possible, as they will be guiding you through each step of a complex and often lengthy process. As architects, we are almost always the first contact clients will reach out to in the ideation stage of their project - so we’re used to guiding our clients through the initial stages of the journey and helping them assemble their full team to hit the ground running.”

Finding a team

"When you start building your renovation team, everyone will know somebody they can recommend," says Jessica Smith, and while word of mouth recommendations are invaluable, "it's still essential that you assemble your own team, based on how you want to live," she emphasises.

"If you’ve ever lived with the consequences of a poor layout, or you naturally find yourself analysing interiors over brick facades, you’re already more attuned to how a home needs to function internally. Use these needs as your starting point and build your team around that," adds Jessica.

If you need to choose an architect to remodel your home, head to RIBA's Find an Architect service and look for ones who specialise in the kind of work you like or want, particularly if you're undertaking a project such as renovating a Victorian property.

If on the other hand your renovation is about about what's inside your home, "prioritise people such as interior designers who can get the internal functions right such as circulation, storage, zoning and how each space supports daily life," recommends Jessica, "as that’s where the long-term value is."

4. Work on a timeline

While an exact schedule of works will be something you finalise with your builder and contractors, understanding what needs to happen and when, in order for you to achieve your ideal completion date, is a good starting point.

“Kitchens, bespoke joinery, glazing systems and major appliances almost always carry the longest lead times," advises Emily Newmarch, "so those decisions should be made early in the year, ideally by spring if you want work to begin in the summer.”

The same even goes for certain items of furniture, such as sofas, which can have 12 week order dates. Likewise if you've started talking to professionals, they may already have told you they have a free slot in a certain month which means you'll need to work around those specifics.

If you have an end date in mind, plot that on your calendar and work back from there to figure out what might take place and when.

Don't yet have finished architectural designs? If everything aligns you could still start on your renovation in 2026, confirms Emily.

“Assuming no planning permission is required, and you have your team lined up, you could begin on-site in early summer. As a rough guide, allow 2–3 months for design and technical drawings before any construction can begin,” she advises.

While January could turn into a busy month with jobs to do to help turn your renovation dreams into reality, make sure you also find out the renovation pitfalls to avoid before you start

Find out the one thing never to leave untouched in a renovation, and avoid the 5 things that will make a renovation look cheap. After all, the last thing you want is to find yourself facing even more renovations when next January arrives.

I thought renovating in winter would simply mean pulling on an extra jumper and keeping the kettle busy. Instead, I’ve collected enough cold-season horror stories to fuel a whole series of renovation reality TV.

From waking up to frost on the inside of the windows to cooking dinner beside a stack of damp plasterboard, renovating a house through the winter months wasn’t glamorous – and it certainly wasn’t warm – but it taught me more than any glossy renovation guide ever could. Now, whenever someone mentions taking on a winter project, I have the kind of sage, slightly battle-worn advice you only earn by living through it.

Yet even after all the chaos, I’d still take on another winter renovation, provided I was far better prepared for what was coming. Here’s what I’ve learned the hard way, so you don’t have to repeat my mistakes.

1. Winter throws your timelines off more than you think

I went into my first winter renovation thinking the only real difference would be the temperature, but I was spectacularly wrong. Not only does winter slow things down, it can completely change the entire timeline of a build.

Trades tend to start later because it’s pitch black first thing, and no one’s cutting timber or climbing scaffolding in the dark. Mortar, adhesives and anything that needs to cure seem to take twice as long. As for exterior work – one frost, and suddenly it’s rescheduled for “when the weather behaves again”, which could mean tomorrow… or next week.

I genuinely thought I’d allowed enough slack in the programme, but winter quickly taught me otherwise. The build stretched, little delays compounded, and even the best laid plans started to feel more like wishful thinking.

My top tip: If you’re planning a winter renovation, the best thing you can do is double your buffer time and then add a bit more. Winter moves at its own pace, and you have to plan for that rather than fight it.

2. The lack of natural light can really impact your mood

Nothing tests your mood quite like renovating in winter. The days are shorter, the house is colder, and suddenly the simplest tasks feel ten times harder. I’ve lived through kitchens sealed off with dust sheets, cooking on a camping hob because the oven was disconnected, and creating “no-go zones” with tape to stop draughts ripping through the house. But what surprised me most was how much the lack of daylight affected my energy levels. When you’re already living in a building site, shorter, darker days quickly add to the stress.

And even when the tools finally go down, the need for good light doesn’t disappear. According research by VELUX 30% of homeowners say natural light directly affects their mood, yet it’s still one of the most overlooked elements in early renovation planning. The VELUX team told me that they often hear renovators say, “I wish I’d thought about how the space would feel, not just how it would look.”

Another common misconception is thinking lighting can be “fixed later”. VELUX warn that retrofitting natural light – whether through roof windows, bigger openings or layout tweaks – is far more disruptive and expensive once a renovation is complete.

My top tip: Treat natural light as a necessity. Plan where it will come from during the design stage so your finished space feels brighter and calmer – and keep it front of mind during the renovation too. In winter, daylight is limited, so make the most of it: schedule key tasks for the brightest part of the day, keep temporary coverings as open as possible, and try not to block the little natural light you do have.

3. There are hidden costs that no one warns you about

Winter has a knack for introducing you to renovation costs you never even thought to budget for. I went into my winter reno feeling organised – spreadsheets, contingency fund, the lot – but the season always finds a way to drain your wallet.

There are temporary heaters to keep trades from freezing, industrial dehumidifiers running around the clock, endless rolls of tarps and sheeting every time a storm blows through – and it all adds up. There’s also the small issue of energy bills. Trying to heat a house with half its walls open is effectively like heating the garden, and if you’re not careful, your bills will double overnight.

As for delays, these are practically guaranteed. When mortar won’t cure and exterior jobs stall because the ground is frozen, the whole schedule slips. Those delays inevitably nudge labour costs up and push other trades further down the calendar. And as Izzy Taylor-Wood, MD of Woody’s Concrete Company, reminds me, it’s rarely down to poor organisation: “Weather, drying times, supplier backlogs and structural surprises all impact the sequence of works. Renovations never move in a perfectly straight line; they naturally ebb, flow and pause."

My top tip: If you’re renovating in winter, pad your budget generously. Winter builds always cost more than you think, and having that extra buffer means the inevitable surprises won’t derail the whole project.

4. Moisture management will become a full-time job

If you’ve never renovated in winter, you genuinely won’t believe how quickly moisture takes over. Within days of the first wall coming down, plaster refused to dry, and every surface felt a little bit damp to the touch. At one point, I had three dehumidifiers running at once in the liveable part of our home.

It gets even more complicated when you’re working with older, breathable materials. Parts of our house are cob and lime, and winter means you’re constantly thinking about moisture levels. Cob walls don’t behave like modern construction – they hold onto water differently, they dry slowly, and they absolutely hate being exposed to prolonged wet weather.

And as Izzy Taylor-Wood of Woody’s Concrete Co. explains, “Drying times and curing periods catch most people out. Floors, plaster, concrete and paint all need far longer than expected to settle, and the majority of delays come from trying to rush processes that physically can’t be rushed.” Winter magnifies that truth: everything simply takes longer, whether it’s a skim coat drying or a new floor curing.

If you’re also renovating an older property and opening up sections in winter, keep them covered, avoid cement-based products, and let them dry gently with steady ventilation rather than blasting them with heat. A little patience goes a long way with traditional materials – and where possible, it’s usually best to tackle these types of renovations during summertime.

There’s also the daily dance of trying to ventilate your home without turning it into a walk-in freezer. Open the windows and doors to your DIY building site and the temperature drops instantly; keep everything shut and the condensation returns just as fast. I spent weeks trying to find a balance between letting the house breathe and not losing all the heat we were paying for.

My top tip: If you’re renovating during the colder months and have the option to live elsewhere during the messiest phase, take it. It makes the whole process far more bearable – and a lot less damp.

Shop dehumidifiers

5. Logistics become surprisingly dramatic

I didn’t realise how theatrical winter renovation logistics could be until I lived through them. For example, skip collection became a saga of its own. If the ground was frozen, the lorry couldn’t get onto the drive, and if it wasn’t frozen, it had turned to mud, and the lorry still couldn’t get onto the drive. Deliveries were delayed by frost, cancelled because of ice, or rescheduled for “after the next weather window”.

Trades have to adapt too, and winter forces everyone to work differently. External jobs pause the moment temperatures drop, anything involving mortar or adhesives takes longer, and certain tasks simply can’t be done safely in the cold or the dark. I quickly learned that no one is being awkward when they reshuffle the schedule, most of the time they’re just trying to stop your project from going wrong.

My top tip: Don't ever be afraid to communicate. Ask your trades what weather conditions affect their work, what they need from you to keep things moving, and which tasks can be swapped around when the forecast turns. Flexibility makes a huge difference in winter. The more you treat the project as a collaboration – not a fixed timeline – the smoother the whole renovation feels.

If you’re gearing up for your own project, it’s worth brushing up on the things that will make your house renovation look cheap. A little know-how goes a long way and it’ll help you avoid the pitfalls that can undo all your hard work.

Deciding which room to renovate first can be far trickier than building a house – particularly if you're planning on living on site throughout the process.

Building a new home means simply working from the ground up, whereas the final answer on where to start when renovating a house will be somewhat dependent on how big your plans are. The reality is that even cosmetic changes can be disruptive and difficult to navigate, let alone those that leave you without power, running water or heat.

Ask the experts which room to renovate first and the answer isn't always what you might expect. Why? Because it's usually about the bigger picture instead, Get that right and the room order will follow next.

Take a whole house approach

If you're renovating a Victorian house, or renovating a listed building, there's a fair chance you'll be taking on work that requires you to strip back your home to the basics. Rewiring, adding more insulation and even changing the type of heating you use may all form part of the bigger picture.

And it's for exactly this reason that asking 'which room to renovate first' isn't always the best approach say the experts. Instead, you need to prioritise the essentials first.

“The best advice is to avoid thinking room by room at the beginning," says Ran Ankory, founder and managing director of Scenario Architecture.

"Start with a whole house plan, even if you intend to renovate in phases. If you redesign a kitchen first for example, without deciding where walls, services, kitchen ventilation and heating are going across the home, you can end up undoing expensive work later," he warns.

“In practical terms, start where risk and disruption are highest. Resolve the building fabric and the fundamentals first, things like damp, insulation strategy, ventilation, wiring, plumbing and any structural changes," advises Ran.

Clive Holland, build expert and broadcaster at Fix Radio agrees.

“I always say get your priorities right before you touch kitchens or colours. A good survey should help you put the work in order: structure first, then services, then aesthetics," says Clive.

"People are often surprised when I say the first ‘room’ you renovate is not the kitchen or bathroom, but the shell of the whole house, but, investing in the invisible essentials like home insulation, structure and systems matters most," he expands. "A home that is warm, energy efficient and safe will always be worth more than one that just looks good on the surface. Once that is right, then you can renovate individual rooms with confidence.

"I have always said the priority is the outer skin of the house: the roof, walls and windows," he continues. "They tell you most of what you need to know about a property and they are where most of your house renovation costs should go."

What to do once the fundamentals are in place

Once your house structure is sound, your roof, windows and doors secure and all the necessary changes have been made to your heating and ventilation, it's then time to start on individual rooms.

But, which room you tackle first can depend on a number of different things including your lifestyle, budget and what other space you have, or need, to be able to function in your daily life.

"Every home needs a different starting point, but if you’re living on site, I almost always recommend working from the top down," says Jessica Smith, interior designer and founder of Curated Spaces.

"Prioritise the rooms you need to sleep, shower and function in, then move your way through the home, finishing with the kitchen," she advises.

As even though it's one of the busiest and most used rooms in your home, renovating a kitchen, "is the dustiest, noisiest phase," she explains, "and having a completed space elsewhere in the house where you can retreat to will keep you sane throughout this final stage."

Of course, it may be that you prefer to get the dirty work out of place quickly, in which case, "once the foundations are in place, you can renovate kitchens and bathrooms next and with confidence because you know exactly where everything needs to go," says Ran Ankory.

Why flexibility might be essential

Over the years I've renovated a number of homes, and lived both on and off site in the process. Living off site is by far the easiest and will give you the option of following the most similar schedule of works to building a house as you can strip, gut and start from scratch.

Living on site while renovating, especially at certain times such as renovating in winter can push even the most patient of people towards a meltdown. Add in children, pets and potential delays and there are days when you will question your sanity.

But, even with the best plans in place, my experience of renovating a new build (a 1980's built house on a housing estate) was a good example of how always need to be flexible with your approach and be prepared to sometimes switch up the order of work.

On paper, the renovation plans weren't too tricky. Renovate a bathroom and leave an en-suite until later on, strip out the kitchen and utility, knock down some internal walls to turn a broken-plan ground floor layout into an open plan one, decorate the new ground floor, the four bedrooms, change the internal doors throughout and replace the uPVC front door with a composite one.

My approach? Get the building work done first, the kitchen and bathroom next, replace the doors, decorate and the job would be done. The reality? Knocking down walls ended up identifying the need for a new steel lintel, kitchen cabinets were missing when the new kitchen was delivered (and took ages to arrive), the bathroom sanitaryware was delayed, and we all slept on mattresses on the floor and ate dust daily with our dinner for far longer than I had hoped.

In the end, some of the bedrooms were decorated before the kitchen was installed, the bathroom installation ran over which then delayed the en-suite renovation, and the front door went in after the hall had been decorated and the walls around it had to be made good.

My point? As the experts advise, it's really not always as linear a choice as deciding which room to renovate first. It's about making sure the bones of your building are in the best condition they can be, and that any structural and service related changes are done properly. The rest, as they say, really is cosmetic and the final icing on the cake.

Keen to make sure your renovation isn't something you repeat too soon? Find out what makes a renovation look cheap and gather inspiration for an entrancing entrance in our guide to hallway renovation ideas.

Amanda Byram is giving fans a sneak peek into her stunning home renovation, showing how rooflights can completely transform a space.

Her kitchen dazzles with bright, airy light while the loft offers breathtaking views, making natural light the star of the design throughout the house.

She demonstrates how using different types of rooflight can maximise daylight and create a warm, inviting atmosphere in every room.

Amanda creates a light-filled kitchen

Stepping through the archway, Amanda says: “Ta-da, look at this glorious space,” as you enter her kitchen, which is still in the process of being installed.

A flat roof rooflight above and slanted skylights over the main area combine with bifold doors to flood the space with light, giving it a spacious, airy feel even before finishing touches are complete.

The design continues the theme of her Scandinavian kitchen renovation, where natural light enhances clean lines, light wood, and minimal finishes.

TV presenters Lucy Kennedy, Yvonne Connolly both commented on the work done saying with Lucy saying: "The light in your kitchen!!! ❤️👌🏼 xxx" with Yvonne adding "Wow. Stunning. The light 🙌🏻 Cant wait to visit !!"

Daylight maximisation continues in the loft

The loft has been transformed with additional slanted Roofmaker skylights, allowing natural light and maximising daylighting to reach deep into the upper floor.

Amanda says, “on a clear day you can see forever,” highlighting the incredible third-floor views through the bifold window and the bright, airy atmosphere created in her loft.

Plans include installing another microcement bathroom in the loft conversion, complementing the second-floor bathroom she calls her “dream come true,” while keeping the upper floor bright, open, and functional.

Amanda's renovation is still a work in progress

Despite the striking improvements from when she started, Amanda still has several home renovation projects underway.

Spare bedrooms need replastering, the living room requires more painting, a new downstairs fireplace is waiting to be installed, and she’s still deciding on the final colour for the bannister. Another bathroom is planned for the loft, and furniture has yet to be moved in, even though the main groundwork is now firmly in place.

Amanda admits the process has been a huge undertaking, showing just how challenging renovations can be - long stretches of disruption, constant decisions, and a near-endless to-do list - but she’s proud of how far the project has come.

Former TOWIE star Mark Wright has released one of the best Instagram videos this Christmas as he has shown off the latest toy he has added to his self-build home.

In a comical mock video based on the famous Love Actually cue card scene, he unveils his love for his... golf clubs.

The reveal shows he has renovated his dining room to become his new golf simulator play area, which he says is his "best Christmas present ever," and it seems he isn't the only one to be enamoured by the simulator trend, with the market experiencing a boom in the UK.

Wright re-enacts Love Actually scene

In the full Instagram video, Wright recreates the iconic Love Actually moment, holding up cue cards including one that reads: “If you can’t say it at Christmas when can you? To me you are perfect…” before revealing the real focus of his affection - his golf clubs and the newly converted simulator room.

However, Michelle Keegan wasn’t quite as keen on the latest addition to the pairs £3.5 million self-build transformation, responding: “‘Golf season’ was meant to be over with!? 🤯😡 Where’s my dining table???”

Mark Wright even garnered the attention of Professional PGA golfer and Major winner Justin Rose, who also joined the fun, joking: “Love it @wrighty_ but have you sorted the dinner table out for @michkeegan yet?!?! 🫣🤣”

Mark Wright's "favourite Christmas present ever"

After setting up the simulator, Wright wasted no time getting stuck in, and it didn’t take long for the results to come. Sharing his first session, he told fans: “5 holes in and I’ve banged a hole in 1 ⛳️ get in!!”

He went on to call the simulator his ultimate festive gift, writing: “38 years have gone by and I can confirm my @foresighteurope launch monitor and sim is my favourite Christmas present ever!!”

It marks the latest transformation in his self-build after he recently revealed his holiday-themed entrance, showing just how much he’s embraced his love of golf, even if it meant sacrificing the dining room table for the foreseeable future.

Wright isn't the only one excited about golf simulators

Mark Wright’s decision to transform his dining room into a full Foresight golf simulator shows a growing trend amongst UK homeowners to adopt golf simulators in their homes.

A 2025 Opinium survey found that 91% of UK golfers see simulators as a great way to bring new players into the sport, while 55% of UK adults say they are a fun social activity with friends or family - rising to 67% among 18–34-year-olds.

The UK golf-simulator market reflects this growing interest. According to Credence Research, in 2024 the UK global golf simulator market was valued at around £130 million, and this is expected to nearly double by 2032.

For homeowners, Wright’s setup is a perfect example of how a spare room or dining space can be converted into a practical and enjoyable lifestyle upgrade - combining sport, entertainment, and socialising, all under one roof, even if Michelle doesn't agree.

Dining rooms have travelled a bumpy old road over the years, with homeowners frequently changing their minds over how they feel about them – are they the height of sophistication or a fusty, unsociable relic of a room that no modern homeowner should consider?

Opinions on dining room ideas remain divided. That said, there is no denying the fact that dining areas with a more sociable, connected feel remain more popular than those that feel cold, closed-off and underused. For this reason, knocking through from a dining room remains a hugely popular remodelling or renovation project, whether that is to bring it into a kitchen space or incorporate it as a casual eating area in a living room.

Here, with the help of some design experts, we look at the pros and cons of opening up a dining room and how to ensure the project is a success if you do decide to tackle the task.

Is knocking through from a dining room a good idea?

Knocking down an internal wall separating a kitchen and dining room is one of the most popular remodelling tasks undertaken – bringing together two rooms that just long to be together.

"I’ve worked on many projects where clients wanted to open up a dining room to connect it with the kitchen or living space," says interior designer Marta Balazs, founder of Embee Interiors. "It can completely transform how a home feels, but success lies in thoughtful planning beyond simply 'knocking through.'"

"I often find that dining rooms are one of the most underused spaces in a home," picks up fellow interior designer Holly Scott of Holly Scott Interior Design. "They can easily become a bit of a dumping ground rather than somewhere you actually enjoy spending time.

"Opening up the dining room to the kitchen can completely change that," continues Holly. "It creates a brighter, more sociable space that works beautifully for everyday family life. Cooking, eating and chatting all flow together – which is exactly how most people like to live today."

What are the advantages of knocking through from a dining room?

There are a whole host of benefits to be enjoyed by removing the wall between a dining room and a kitchen, as the experts we spoke to explain.

"Opening up a dining room creates better flow, natural light and social connection," begins Marta Balazs. "It suits modern living where cooking, dining and entertaining often overlap. It can also make smaller homes feel much more spacious and cohesive."

"It connects family life together rather than keeping people in separate rooms," adds Holly Scott. "It also just makes entertaining easier and more relaxed."

Of course, knocking through from a dining room isn't always done just to realise dream kitchen diner ideas – sometimes, an even more open-plan layout is desired, incorporating a living space too.

"When it comes to combining kitchen, dining and living in one space, it can work brilliantly, especially in smaller homes, but I often recommend keeping a separate living area too if possible," advises Holly Scott. "It gives you a quieter, more relaxed space to unwind away from the activity of the kitchen."

"We’re actually working on a project right now where we’re removing the wall between a kitchen, dining room and a bathroom and completely flipping the layout," says Marta Balazs. "This will free up enough space to add a bigger kitchen, and a lounge-style soft seating area. When done for the right reasons, these changes can dramatically improve how a home supports everyday life."

What are the downsides of knocking through from a dining room?

Of course there is a reason why separate dining rooms are still valued by many – in fact, there are whispers that dining rooms are back in fashion. Something to bear in mind before tearing down that wall.

"If your family values quiet, separate spaces for work, study or downtime, or if the home’s period character would be compromised, it may not be the right move," advises Marta Balazs. "Every layout decision should enhance how you live, not just how it looks. In our own home, although both my partner and I love open spaces, we chose not to knock down the walls. It's not only a load-bearing wall but we would have lost the original Victorian features that make the house so special. Instead, we embraced the cosy, cocoon-like feel of each room through textiles and colour, and used the layout to our advantage within each space."

In fact, removing walls throws up some design challenges well worth considering, including sound transferral and the loss of storage and hanging space, not to mention the mess and disruption caused by the work itself.

How to knock through from a dining room successfully

If you have your heart set on opening up your dining room to the other spaces within your home, what advice did the designers we spoke to have to offer on how to ensure the project is a success?

"Always consult a structural engineer before removing any walls," says Marta Balazs. "Dining rooms often sit between load-bearing structures or include chimney breasts that influence what’s possible."

Once you have ascertained what type of wall you are dealing with and carried out the necessary structural checks to ensure the work is done safely, what other steps should you take?

• Define zones: "Once walls are gone, you lose natural boundaries," explains Marta Balazs. "Use kitchen and furniture layout, lighting and finishes, such as a pendant above the table, zone a dining or seating area with a large area rug, or a change colour where you have built-in cabinets – all help maintain balance."
• Add soundproofing measures: "Add texture and warmth through rugs, upholstery, curtains and timber finishes," suggests Holly Scott. "Mixing materials – like wood, stone and soft fabrics – helps absorb sound and stops the space feeling stark or echoey."
• Consider storage: "Fewer walls mean fewer storage options and so that’s where built-in cabinetry or bench seating can make a big difference," says Marta.
• Keep it cosy: Open-plans can lose intimacy," warns Marta. "Use as many textiles as you can – rugs, curtains, upholstered furniture and layered lighting to keep the space warm and comfortable.

FAQs

Is there a minimum dining room size?

In some properties, dining rooms can be very compact affairs, seemingly there just to tick a box rather than to provide any kind of useful function.

While there is no minimum size when designing a dining room in the UK, it is useful to first think about the size of table you either have, or want, to position in this room. From there, work on needing a minimum 1m of clearance space (ideally 2m) on at least two sides.

Getting open-plan living right is no easy task. Make sure that you take into account exactly how you intend on using each area of your new space and be sure to consider different ways of creating zones as well as a cosy feel.

If, like me, you've survived renovating a listed building, you'll perhaps understand the use of the word survival. As dramatic as it might sound, taking on any house renovation can be challenging. Deciding to renovate a listed building adds in a whole other level of skill and determination, not just from you, but from your professional team too.

Whether it's the mysteries you uncover, the damage you find, or the planning constraints that can make design and purchasing more time consuming and costly, it's not a journey to take without gaining some understanding of just what's involved.

Along with the help of a listed building expert, we're here to explain the unofficial rules to follow to make sure you get the best result you can when renovating a listed building.

Where to start

Before you start on any listed building project, whether it's extending a listed building or renovating one, it's essential that you speak to experts – advice that Douglas Kent, technical and research director at The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB) agrees with.

Although undertaking a cosmetic house renovation is possible without needing too many skilled tradespeople if you have excellent DIY skills and an eye for interior design, renovating a listed building is not something you can take on without the involvement and guidance of experts.

Without their knowledge and experience, it can be easy to fall into the trap of assuming you can apply modern construction methods to an older property – but the reality is, you often can't.

While you can of embrace modern architectural design in terms of adding contemporary extensions to old properties, or using current interior design trends, fixtures and fittings inside your home, it's the fabric of the building where you need a more delicate and informed touch.

When I started my listed building renovation, it began with choosing an architect who had experience of renovating and extending in this field, something that was relatively easy to establish using the find an architect function on the RIBA website.

In turn, they were able to recommend other experts such as structural engineers, quantity surveyors and the like, all of whom had a better understanding of what would be required. Likewise when going out to tender, I only considered building contractors who had experience with old properties.

Even if the renovation is on the smaller scale, "consult SPAB, Historic England (or local equivalents), or experienced craftspeople before removing or altering features," says Douglas.

"What looks like grime may in fact be historic decoration, for example, so use experts to be sure about what you’re working with and how it needs to be treated."

But, once you've built your specialist team and received the official rules and regulations regarding planning permission and listed building consent, I asked Douglas what are the unofficial rules you should follow to get the best end result?

Rule 1: Let old walls breathe

Renovating a listed building is about adding life to its bones, preserving it for future generations so that it lasts. It's why one of the most important jobs you can do is to ensure you treat the structure in particular the walls in the right way, advises Douglas Kent.

"Solid walls aren’t like modern cavity walls," explains Douglas. "They need to breathe or be 'moisture-open,' allowing the easy passage of moisture.

"Use materials that absorb and release moisture naturally, such as lime plaster and lime-based paints, or other appropriate paints made with natural ingredients to ensure breathability and prevent moisture buildup," he recommends.

Building products to steer clear of? "Avoid modern gypsum plaster or paints with poor breathability," says Douglas, "as they trap moisture and can lead to dampness and mould problems in older structures."

Research products such as the Dryzone Hi-Lime Finishing Plaster from B&Q to find the best option for your walls.

Rule 2: Respect original materials: Repair, don't replace

Douglas' next piece of advice is one that could save you money in the long run by helping to reduce your renovation costs.

"The SPAB approach to renovating listed buildings is 'as much as necessary, as little as possible'," shares Douglas. "The trick to a successful renovation is to maintain historic layers rather than creating a carbon-copy new version. So, don’t rip out old timber, stone floors, or plaster unnecessarily," he advises.

"These are often higher quality and more durable than modern replacements," he adds, meaning you could not only get the same end result, but one that lasts even longer.

Rule 3: Think carefully about what you upgrade

While adding energy efficient heating upgrades such as air source heat pumps can be possible when renovating a listed building, Douglas suggests that you don't need to assume you have to install new of everything. In fact, taking a step back and assessing what's best for the building is essential before you start gutting it.

"Before installing underfloor heating or ripping out windows, consider lighter-touch alternatives like secondary glazing or other heating options," says Douglas. "These can be more effective while preserving a building’s character."

In the case of windows, Douglas also notes that, "any single-glazed sash or timber windows can often be repaired and improved with secondary glazing, which may also provide better soundproofing than standard double glazing anyway."

But — be prepared to 'downgrade' too

Depending on the listed grade of the building, you may also find that you aren't granted permission to upgrade certain elements. And, while it can seem counter-intuitive to downgrade a home's energy efficiency, it was something I was told I had to do in order to protect the integrity of the original building.

Prior to the property being listed, it had been renovated and extended once before, and the previous owner had taken full advantage of the lack of protection to rip out some of the existing windows.

Rather than match what was there, he replaced them with brown uPVC double glazing. While it may have been a more energy efficient choice, the windows were totally at odds with the rest of the building's exterior.

It didn't go unnoticed by the local planning authority and as a result I was required to replace the double glazed windows with new single glazed bespoke windows that matched the remainder of the property.

Secondary glazing was also forbidden, which was frustrating, but one of the potential downsides you might encounter when renovating a listed building.

Rule 4: Take responsibility and expand your own knowledge too

Although the experts are on hand to advise you, it's important to do your own research too when renovating a listed building. Not to replace them, but to understand why certain measures and processes need to be used. These will often increase your budget, so knowing why can make the extra costs more palatable.

Knowledge is power after all, and it can also help ensure you employ the right experts and don't get fall foul of tradesmen who claim to know more than they actually do.

"Learn as much about your building as possible and then choose the approach that’s best-suited," says Douglas. "For example, don’t agree to inject damp-proof courses or use cement mortar on old walls. This will exacerbate any problems you may already have."

And, if you really want to have a hands on role in renovating your listed building, and prepare yourself for being its custodian for year to come, why not look at expanding your own skill set, suggests Douglas.

"Short lime mortar or plastering courses are widely available, for example," he says, "and can empower you to tackle small patch repairs yourself in the future."

Rule 5: Make on going maintenance a priority

The final rule for renovating a listed building is a lifetime one, as while you will hopefully have some time to sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labour, old buildings rarely come without an ongoing commitment.

"Regular upkeep is key," says Douglas. "Small, timely repairs are cheaper and more effective than large interventions, and can often prolong the life of the better-quality, original features in older homes."

The main thing I learnt from renovating a listed building

Although I'd renovated a number of different properties prior to taking on a listed building, in hindsight I'd confess to being naive to what I was actually taking on. Firmly telling myself it couldn't be that different to renovating an old house, it was a case of diving feet first into the purchase and worrying about the logistics later.

Pretty quickly it became clear that whether it was finding architects, getting planning, sourcing materials or slowly uncovering what secrets the building held, there was only one entity in charge, and it wasn't me. It was the building itself.

I quickly discovered that the trick to renovating a listed building is to accept you will need to find different ways that will let you achieve the aesthetic results you want, while still respecting the way in which it was built and needs to be restored. It will never be a one size fits all approach and out of the box thinking will be key.

Giving in gracefully to the demands of the building was a learning curve, and not easy when I wanted to be in control of everything. But, once I accepted this was the way ahead, so the process became smoother.

The reality is, fighting a listed building is not the way to tackle such a project. Leaning in, respecting the history and taking all the advice you can get from experts is, and always will be, the best way forward.

Keen to learn more about listed buildings before you take the plunge? Find out what experienced renovator, Sarah Warwick wishes she knew before she bought a listed building and discover exactly what the different listed building grades mean and how they might affect your home renovation plans.

The Autumn Budget has introduced a series of measures that could make homeownership more expensive and complex.

Housing expert Michael Holmes warns that these changes are likely to influence both homeowners’ renovation decisions and long-term property plans.

He says the new taxes and levies could have significant knock-on effects for the wider housing market and the economy.

1. Mansion Tax could discourage home improvements

Holmes explains that the Mansion Tax, set to begin in 2028, will affect around 2.5 million high-value homes.

“Although the initial rates appear modest, this tax represents a fundamental change in how homeownership is treated,” he says.

Homeowners may now hesitate to make renovations or extensions if doing so pushes their property over the tax threshold.

2. Renovations may no longer be worthwhile

“The Mansion Tax introduces a cumulative levy on home improvements, which over time could outweigh any added value to the property,” Holmes warns.

Many homeowners undertake renovations for lifestyle reasons rather than purely financial gain, but this tax could change that calculation.

Holmes says the measure may discourage people from upgrading their homes, particularly as improvements now carry long-term tax implications.

3. Retirees could face extra pressure

Holmes notes that future increases in the tax threshold or rates could place additional pressure on long-term homeowners.

“Empty nesters may feel incentivised to downsize or cash in equity before the tax hits,” he explains. This could lead to changes in retirement planning and property decisions for older homeowners.

4. Buy-to-let investors and rental costs

Holmes warns that landlords will also feel the pinch, with a further 2% tax on buy-to-let properties from 2026.

“These measures are prompting some investors to leave the market, reducing supply and likely driving up rents,” he says.

The combined effect of taxes on homeowners and landlords could create wider strain on the housing market.

5. Wider impact on housebuilding and the economy

Holmes says that property taxes influence more than just individual homeowners - they also affect construction and the wider economy.

“The housing market drives UK growth, and any measures that discourage homeownership or renovations will have knock-on effects on housebuilding and economic activity,” he warns.

With the Autumn Budget predicted to raise mortgage rates, reduce housing supply, and increase house prices, according to the OBR it seems what Michael Holmes is predicting could be set to come true.

He adds that these changes could slow growth while reducing the incentives for homeowners to invest in their properties.

In this Henry HVR160 review I share my experience of using it for more than five years, to tidy up after DIY successes (and disasters) and general use around the home.

It's a canister vacuum cleaner, which means that the main unit and cleaning head are connected by a long hose. This makes it perfect for getting into difficult spaces, and useful for getting replacement parts since they are all easily accessible. With powerful suction, dust-free emptying and a robust design, is there anything it can't do?

Over the years I have tested a lot of vacuum cleaners, and I haven't held back in stretching their capabilities – especially with this one. As a mum-of-two and someone who likes stripping wallpaper, knocking through walls and sanding skirting, let me tell you how it made the cut onto our list of the best vacuum cleaners for builders' dust. You can then weigh up if it's the one for you.

Unboxing and setting up the Henry HVR160

The Henry HVR160 arrives by courier, and it takes no second guesses as to what is inside the box. Clearly branded and labelled, the cardboard box is purpose made for shipping this Henry. The only plastic used was a bag that contained a Tapered Adapter, Crevice Tool, Dusting Tool and Brush and Mattress Tool, which will come in handy when cleaning the home – rather than clearing up after a DIY success or disaster.

There's a set of owner instructions that explains how everything fits together, but if you've seen a Henry before then familiarity trumps.

A bag is already in place to collect the dust from your DIY project or house renovation, so the only set-up required is to connect the three-piece tube set, attach it to the hose and then screw said hose onto the main unit. With no battery to charge and no fancy smart features, the Henry HVR160 is ready to use within minutes.

First impressions

When the Henry HVR160 is put together it looks like a useful piece of kit, with all the tools secured onto the on-board storage and the otherwise gangly floorhead secured by a clip at the back of the canister.

It's on a set of wheels so I can either push it by foot or pull it by a hand on the hose to move it around. There is also a retractable handle on the top that I used to carry it into different rooms or up the stairs, or hauled up a ladder to the attic.

I like that there is some discreet cable management underneath the handle, so that the 10m power cable can be wound away when I've finished a job. The generous 6L bag is also neatly contained in the canister so all the dust and debris will be out of sight and out of mind, that is until it's full and needs replacing.

Henry HVR160 specifications

• Power: 620w
• Capacity: 6L
• Cable length: 10m
• Hose length: 2.2m
• Cleaning range: 25.7m
• Weight: 7.5kg
• Dimensions: 320 x 340 x 345mm
• Additional tools: Crevice Tool, Dusting Tool, Brush & Mattress Tool

Using the Henry HVR160 for DIY

The Henry HVR160 has helped us out in two home renovations and continues to be a reliable companion through all our DIY successes, and failures. What we love about it is that no mess is too big or too small – it will literally suck up everything (provided it is not a liquid). Dust, stones, chipped bricks, plasterboard, insulation and wood shavings are just some examples of how much it has tidied up for us.

It's currently sat in our attic. We (my husband) are in the throes of insulating the loft and boarding out the space, to prevent heat loss from the bedrooms below and maximise the area for loft storage. A lot of dust comes with chipboard and rock wool insulation, as well as flyaways as the main bulk of the insulation is laid.

We've removed the floorhead and three-piece stainless tube set so we're more agile in the somewhat cramped space. This means that we're only using the hose with tapered adapter to suck up the mess, and the Henry takes it in its stride. The hose doesn't get blocked and the canister bag is filling up nicely.

The wheels on the canister make it easy to pull into a tight spot. I just need to remind my husband to unplug and rewind the 6m power cable so that the attic isn't anymore treacherous than it already is.

Switching to home use

As well as tidying after a DIY project, the Henry HVR160 can also be used to clean the carpet, floors, skirting, crevices and upholstery around the home.

The Combi Floor Tool attaches to the three-piece stainless steel tube set. On the top of this tool is a paddle which can be pressed down for hard floors, and up for carpets. I found that it did a great job of cleaning both floor types, but the fluff from our new wool carpets did quickly build on the underside of the tool so I need to stop and start a few times to keep clearing it. This floor tool transitioned well between rooms too.

For cleaning skirting boards you can either use the Crevice Tool or Brush, but I found it easier to remove the tube set from the hose and just run the Tapered Adapter along the top. I personally found these tools more useful when cleaning the car.

Through a house move and general lack of organisation, I have unfortunately misplaced the tools but it's good to see that a replacement kit comprising the tools, hose and stainless-steel tube set can be bought from Amazon for £44.99.

If you think that you'll be scaling back on the DIY ambitions and using the Henry HVR160 more around the home, it would be worth considering the noise levels. I recorded 82dB during testing which is equivalent to heavy traffic or loud singing.

Cleaning, maintenance and storage

The Henry HVR160 is one of the easiest vacuum cleaners I have had to maintain in all my years of owning a vacuum cleaner. You'll just need to check the nozzle and floorhead for blockages, and replace the canister bags when full. A pack of 10 Henry replacement bags are £12 [Amazon] so while you do have an ongoing cost, what I will say is that this Henry will stuff the bag full before it needs swapping out.

To store, the cable can be wound in and the tools can be stowed on the on-board storage. The floorhead with three-piece stainless-steel tube can also be clipped onto the back of the canister in an upright position, but I found that this clip is a weak spot and the height of the floorhead clipped on could make it difficult to fit into a space out of the way.

How does it rate online?

Looking at TrustPilot reviews, the Henry HVR160 (and his friends) has 1767 reviews and has been awarded 4.8 out of 5 stars. Reviewers speak highly about how easy it is to fit together, the powerful suction and the useful attachments. It's not easy to find any negative comments but I have managed to find one who says that they find it a bit cumbersome to move around and the suction adjuster on the handle is difficult to turn on.

Over on Argos, 98% of customers recommend the HVR160. It's received high praise for its powerful suction, ease of use and excellent value for money. Users appreciate its performance on both carpets and hard floors, along with its long cord and generous dust bag capacity. However, some users report that they struggle to move the floorhead around and that the hose gets blocked.

And on Currys, 4 out of 5 stars has been awarded out of 10,747 reviews. The performance, ease of use and value for money is all spoken highly off. Yet some users struggle with pet hair removal (there's a separate tool for this) and that it keeps falling apart.

How does it compare?

While the Henry HVR160 is fantastic for dry messes, you may need to call in Charles CVC370 for the big stuff. This is a wet/dry vacuum cleaner which is ready to clean up plumbing disasters or clean out the garage. It has a larger 1000W motor and a larger 9L capacity for dry stuff, and 15L capacity for wet stuff.

Another option is the Karcher WD4 Wet & Dry vacuum cleaner (available on Amazon) which has a 2.2m long hose as standard. This is longer than Charles' 1.8m hose. The extra length would be beneficial when clearing blockages, although an extra long 6m long hose can be bought for Charles for £16.99 on Amazon if you already own one.

The 10m power cable on the HVR160 may be too restricting for other fellow DIYers too. The Makita DVC750LZ (available on Amazon) is a lightweight, portable cordless vacuum cleaner. Like Charles, it can also clean wet and dry messes but on a smaller scale because it has half the capacity.

In terms of price, the Henry HVR160 offers excellent value for money. It's priced at £119 which is cheaper than Charles CVC370 (RRP £169), Karcher WD4 (RRP £139.98) and Makita DVC750 (RRP £159.99). Whist it's not a wet and dry vacuum cleaner, it can be used anywhere in the home which may be the better option for you if you tend to dip in and out of projects.

Should you buy the Henry HVR160?

The Henry HVR160 is a brilliant buy if you need a vacuum cleaner that is robust, reliable and low maintenance. It has ample suction to clear away dust, wood shavings, small pieces of rubble, plasterboard scraps and insulation flyaways. Yes, the bags are an ongoing cost but you'll rarely need to replace them and, honestly, it's well worth containing the dry DIY messes in this way so you don't make the mess again when emptying.

It is noisy compared to other household vacuum cleaners, but the performance outweighs this in my mind. I did also find that when storing the floorhead and hose in an upright position it felt flimsy, although after years of use it will find its own safe space in whatever configuration – as it has done at our house.

Looking to clear up the mess from other DIY and renovation projects? Our favourite window vacs will clear dust and dirt from windows and doors in no time, while the best pressure washers are perfect for messy outdoor jobs.

While renovating a house that's older brings with it a series of challenges, renovating a new build isn't always as easy as it seems.

Why? Because although older homes can have structural issues, or problems such as damp, they generally come with a host of period features and a hefty dose of character. New builds on the other hand are usually designed to a set formula, feature boxy shaped rooms and lack what you could perhaps describe as a 'soul'.

So what can you do if you're facing the task of resuscitating a new build to bring it back to life? I took on the challenge a few years ago and it worked. So here's what I, along with industry experts suggest you do to create a new build that feels like home.

1. Start by identifying existing or potential features

Depending on the age of your 'new build', the chances are it will have been constructed by a major housebuilder with a fairly similar formula. Broken plan layout, uPVC double glazed windows, boxy rooms and essential kitchen and bathrooms, but very little more.

But, rather than thinking about what it doesn't have, try and start the process by thinking about what it does have, suggests Emma Deterding, founder and creative director of Kelling Designs.

"The best way to counter the problem of a lack of features is always to see what's available. If you have windows with great views, these themselves are a great feature that you should make the most of," she states.

"Use them as the focal point to allow your eye to be drawn out the views, making the rooms feel larger and more spacious. They will also help to bring in good natural light, which is invaluable," says Emma.

It's certainly the approach I took when I found myself buying a 'new build' home, had been built by a major developer around 15 years prior. While it wasn't my 'forever' or dream home, when you viewed it through the right lens, it had potential. Located at the top of an estate that had been built on a hill, it had sweeping views to the valleys beyond, the right number of generously sized rooms and scope to make changes.

The next most important step? Think carefully about the layout, as the good news is, what you see isn't always what you have to live with.

2. Change the layout if it doesn't work for you

Having spent the previous 10 years living in a number of different properties that all had an open plan layout, it was hard to imagine living in an older new build that was the exact opposite.

With a separate kitchen, living room and dining room in my new property, the rooms, while not that small, still felt pokey compared to an open plan layout. But, it's where one of the benefits of a new build can work to your advantage.

Quite often, the dividing walls between rooms such as dining spaces and living rooms are internal walls not load bearing walls. Knocking them down to open up the rooms is a far easier task when this is the case.

Although I did need to get a structural engineer involved for my home – purely because I also knocked down between the kitchen and reception rooms, and reconfigured the hallway slightly which required new steel beams – in many cases, you may find walls can be easily removed.

Taking advice is essential, but, the point is, what you see in a new build isn't always what you have to end up living with.

In the same way as renovating a Victorian house often involves reconfiguring layouts, so can renovating a new build in order to help add character and make your home a reflection of your architectural preferences.

"From an architectural perspective, it's all about the sense of scale, light and drama," says Emma. If you want the look and feel of a contemporary home with experimental design and unusual detail, don't be afraid to treat your new build as a canvas on which you have the full power to paint a new appearance.

3. What can you add or change?

Layout changes decided, you can then start looking at some of the other fixtures and fittings to see what you want to keep and what you can change. Getting the fundamentals right will give you an easier canvas to work with when it comes to the finishing touches.

As a starting point, take a look at the following, all of which can be upgraded or altered to create a characterful home that works for you:

1. Internal and external doors: Consider switching these for a more modern style if yours are dated. I swapped my white half glazed uPVC front door for a more contemporary grey composite front door and it made such a difference. Inside, I switched the standard panelled internal doors for a modern style, and out went the brass hardware and in came brushed steel instead.
2. Windows: If new window costs are too prohibitive or the double glazed white uPVC units still have some life left in them, you may, like me, be comfortable to leave them. If not, think of changing your window frame colour to a more modern shade. Or, you could look at window shutter costs for the inside to alter your internal view of them. I used white wooden venetian blinds which achieved a similar result for a lower price, but still let me enjoy the external views.
3. Staircase: Although I wanted to replace my wooden staircase with a modern glass and stainless steel one, my budget didn't stretch to new staircase costs. Instead, painting the stairs was the next best option, and in doing so it helped create a light and airy hallway which welcomed us home each day.
4. Kitchen: In keeping with the age of my new build, there was a very traditional wooden kitchen with old appliances and a fair amount of wasted space. What you choose to replace it with will naturally come down to personal taste, but there's certainly no better way to add character to a new build than making sure the heart of your home beats to your rhythm. Think of room shape and dimensions and let your personality run free.
5. Bathrooms: As with kitchens, there's such a wide range of modern bathroom ideas available, you certainly won't struggle to replace it with one that's oozing with character. From small ensuites to wet rooms, choose fixtures and fittings in keeping with you.
6. Heating: Think about the different types of radiators you can buy and if there are better options for heating your new build that will add character. Could you add in a log burner or a bioethanol fire to replace an old fashioned electric fireplace? All of these changes will help your home to grow in character and style.

My favourite picks for adding character to a new build

4. Use your flooring to add character from ground level up

When trying to add character to your new build, another key factor is getting your flooring choices right. As with the walls and ceilings, flooring will feature in every room and can really help influence the final look and feel.

The flooring you choose will depend on the overall look you are trying to create. I was personally aiming for a more contemporary feel, so replaced old beige coloured carpets with a light grey textured carpet in the living room, study, stairs and bedrooms. Yellow wooden laminate flooring in the kitchen and dining space was replaced with a light grey engineered wood flooring, that I also extended into the hallway.

And, while choosing the same flooring throughout isn't always everyone's choice, it work well in new builds, agrees Adam Robertson, managing director at Urbane Living.

"Running the same timber flooring throughout your new build, rather than switching between different floor types in different rooms, creates a sense of flow and sophistication," he says. "It's a simple change that makes the entire property feel more cohesive and intentional, elevating it beyond the standard new build aesthetic into something that truly feels like home.

"I always encourage clients to think about tone as well when selecting flooring for a new build," he adds. "Warmer browns or grey-browns, feel contemporary and sophisticated without being too stark or cold. They work beautifully in new builds because they add warmth and character while still maintaining that clean, modern look.

"Texture is equally important," says Adam, "as opting for a brushed or hand-scraped finish rather than a perfectly smooth surface adds tactile interest and a lived-in quality that new builds typically lack. A matt lacquer or natural oil finish will also feel more authentic and less builder-grade than high-gloss option."

"One of my top recommendations is to consider wider planks," adds Ian Tomlinson, managing director of Chaunceys Timber Flooring. "Opting for generous, extra-wide planks immediately creates a more bespoke, high-end feel. These broader planks also have fewer joints across the floor, which creates a cleaner, more sophisticated look that makes rooms feel larger and more considered.

"Herringbone or chevron patterns are also wonderful for elevating a new build," says Ian. "These classic laying patterns have been used for centuries in period homes, and they bring an architectural quality that gives a timeless aesthetic. A herringbone floor in a new build dining room or hallway creates an immediate sense of heritage and craftsmanship, transforming a blank canvas into something that feels thoughtfully designed and more like a home."

5. Re-think your lighting scheme and how you control it

In the same way that ground level changes can really help add character to your new build, your lighting design can also transform your home, creating detail and definition that simply wasn't there before.

"New build homes often lack architectural character, and lighting is one of the most effective ways to inject personality into a bland room," states James Kendall, operations director at KES Lighting & Home.

"If you're faced with basic ceiling roses and single pendants, consider more decorative options instead, he suggests. "A vintage-inspired chandelier, an industrial-style pendant, or a contemporary linear light fixture immediately elevates the space and gives it a sense of identity.

"Wall lights are also particularly useful in new builds because they create visual interest on flat, featureless walls," adds James. "Sconces with decorative backplates or statement shades add texture and depth, breaking up expanses of plain plaster. If your new build has a low ceiling, flush or semi-flush fittings with interesting designs prevent the room from feeling compressed while still making a style statement."

As standard, think about layers of lighting and how you will use the room, suggests Simon Wallis-Smith, director at Fritz Fryer Lighting.

"There are the usual principles; task lighting, mood lighting, accent lighting, they all play their part. But don’t just think in terms of downlights and pendants," he says.

"One of my favourite ways to add atmosphere is to incorporate lots of lamps on a 5-amp ring circuit," he explains. "This means you can control multiple table and floor lamps from a single wall switch, letting you use soft lamp light as part of your everyday scheme, not just something you switch on occasionally.

"The most successful lighting schemes are based on how you actually use the space," he adds, so think about your layout first and then finalise your lighting. "Lighting isn’t just about visibility, it’s about creating atmosphere and character,' says Simon. "Done well, your lighting scheme can bring depth, drama and personality into every corner of your home. It’s the difference between a space that simply works, and one that truly feels like home."

Make sure you also choose the right lighting temperature too, adds Simon. "For most residential settings, a warm white (around 2400K) gives you that cosy, inviting glow that makes a house feel like a home. Cooler temperatures might suit home offices or bathrooms, but too much of it in a living space can feel stark and unwelcoming."

And, if you only make minor changes to your lighting, make sure you do one thing regarding how you control your lights – add dimmer switches wherever you can. It's a simple change, but one that instantly gives you the power to alter the mood and character to you home.

"it's a small change that makes an enormous difference, allowing you to control ambience and add sophistication to even the most basic new build space," agrees James.

6. Dress your home with the colours and items you love

With the bones of your new build changes in place, the fun can really start when thinking of ways to add character to your interiors. The key to the best results? Don't be shy, says Emma Deterding. Just because it's a new build it doesn't mean it can't look exactly how you want it to.

"When it comes to decorating the interiors of a new build, it's important to come at it boldly to help add character and charm," says Emma. "Don't shy away from colour and pattern, as it's about filling your home with pieces you love, whilst still ensuring full functionality for day-to-day living."

And, just because your home may have a modern build date, it doesn't mean it can't reflect the character of a period you love, says Emma.

"There is no reason why new builds cannot house antiques if you use them in the right place by allowing them to be statement pieces," says Emma. "Avoid dressing them in a period style, but use them as statements throughout your home, creating points of interest.

"Strong fabrics on upholstery and the simple dressing of items of furniture is also another way to go. The hanging of pictures should also be very clean. Overall, it's important not to clutter the home, but choose timeless pieces in colours, prints and patterns you love throughout that will stand the test of time," she adds.

And, unless you are opting for a very clean and modern feel, in which case white or bolder colours may be your preferred starting point, for a more lived in feel, think carefully about your colours too," suggests Kate Palmer, creative director of The Painted Furniture Company.

"Slightly muted, time-worn colours are a simple but effective way to give a new build the warmth and character of an older home," says Kate. "Colours such as soft greys, faded blues, gentle greens or warm neutrals rather than stark, glossy tones will help to create a homely feel. You might also like to try pairing these shades with soft matte finishes or hand-painted cabinetry to add a subtle, handcrafted feel that makes rooms feel lived-in rather than brand new.

"Even small details, like painting doors, door frames or shelves in slightly different shades or layering a wash of colour over woodwork, can create richness and charm,' she adds. "The key sometimes is to embrace imperfection. A hint of distressing or variation in tone suggests history and personality, helping a fresh space feel like it has stories to tell."

Depending on the location of your new build, you may also be looking to add character to the exterior appearance of your home. As well as landscaping your garden in a way that matches your interior design, you can also consider external cladding ideas to change how your exterior walls look. Although it's worth noting that you'll need to check the details of your freehold before doing so, as some properties built on housing estates may have restrictive covenants in place that prevent certain external changes.

Likewise, when it comes to building a house extension or adding a loft conversion to a new build, you'll need to follow the same planning permission guidelines, and check if you are obliged to notify the original developer of the changes you are planning on making. It may sound unnecessary, but speaking from experience, it can sometimes be required, so make sure you check them thoroughly before staring to renovate your new build to add character.

Undertaking a house renovation often means weighing up the long list of jobs you need to complete and deciding where your money is best spent. While stylish new decor may look good, if the work you've undertaken in the background isn't up to scratch, it's often false economy.

But, do the experts agree on the one thing you should never leave untouched during a renovation? Or, is it really a case of assessing each project on an individual basis.

I had my suspicions as to the answers I'd receive, and I'm relieved to say I wasn't wrong. It all starts with the fundamentals, and here's why.

This one thing should never be left untouched during a renovation

Unless your home renovation is genuinely just a cosmetic makeover, achieving a successful outcome to your home renovation ideas starts with one thing and one thing only – making sure the external structure of your home is up to the job.

Failure to do so will only lead to long term damage, extra costs and the potential for the rest of your hard work to come tumbling down like a house of cards.

"If I had to pinpoint one thing to prioritise in a renovation, I’d say focus on the outer skin – your walls, roof, and windows," says Clive Holland, broadcaster on Fix Radio. "They tell you most of what you need to know about a property, and they’re where most of your money should go."

"The roof, walls and insulation – along with the gas and electrics – should always come before cosmetic work," says Clive. "They’re the bones of the building, and once those are right, everything else falls into place."

And, as well as making sure your home is fit for purpose, making sure you always do this one thing when renovating will also reap more financial rewards in the long run – even if you need to spend more upfront.

"Older homes, particularly those without cavity walls, can feel colder inside than out – and that has financial consequences," explains Clive. "Around 33% of heat loss in an uninsulated home escapes through the walls, and a further 25% through the roof."

"Proper insulation is crucial because it affects energy efficiency, comfort, and long-term savings," agrees Costel Radescu, founder and CEO of CR Group. "If a home isn’t well-insulated, it can lead to increased energy bills and a less comfortable living environment. Additionally, if you're renovating, it's the perfect time to address insulation since walls and ceilings may already be exposed. Always budget for it to ensure your home stays energy-efficient and comfortable for years to come."

Plus, the benefits of making sure your structure and insulation are sound could also benefit you if you decide to move home in the future.

"Properties with lower Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) ratings are now harder to mortgage or sell, as lenders tighten criteria around energy efficiency," explains Clive.

"Your home needs to be warm, cost-efficient, and secure, so anything that helps achieve that should be a top priority. This means checking cavity walls, improving loft insulation, and investing in the roof and windows if they’re outdated."

Follow the 'one thing' with these next steps

But what about the other areas where you can really make a difference to your home renovation?

If energy efficiency is the over-riding goal, according to the experts, what else can you do during a home renovation that will bring a positive outcome?

If your project involves replacing the roof, Simon Bones founder and CEO of Genous, always offers his clients one piece of advice, and that is to add solar panels.

"Solar panels (photovoltaic ones, not solar thermal) are definitely one of our main recommendations if your project requires a new roof," says Simon, citing the three main reasons for this as follows:

1. Save on scaffolding costs

For most solar panel jobs, £1000 or more of the cost is in the scaffolding that is needed to do the works. If you are reroofing then you will have scaffolding up anyway, and as long as you can coordinate the works, the cost can be shared between the roof works and the solar panels

2. Opportunity to use in-roof panels

Most solar installations are on-roof – the panels sit on the roof, But, in-roof, where the panels are inset into the roof, can be a better solution. There's less structural challenge, as the panels replace tiles, so weigh less, but are also less likely to have the wind get under them thereby avoiding pull force. They are also neater-looking, with no need to use bird blocker or the like. The problem with in-roof is it is normally more expensive, and if you aren't replacing the roof, you will need for roofer and end up throwing away good tiles. However, if you are reroofing you have the roofer, you save money on the tiles, and panels can cost close to the same as the tiles you’d would have had to pay for anyway.

3. Trades on site to make good

If you’re redoing the roof, you’re likely to be undertaking a larger renovation so will have plasterers or decorators on, or coming to site, which makes running the wiring – or, more specifically, making good on these runs, much easier and again more cost effective.

"Since solar panels typically have a good financial payback even without these benefits, doing it as part of a roof renovation can be particularly attractive financially," adds Simon, "and reduces a lot of the hassle, or at least just becomes part of the hassle that is happening anyway!"

Extending as part of your renovation?

Simon's additional advice if adding an extension forms part of your home renovation plans?

Again, it's taking a look at your heating system and understanding if switching to a more efficient system now, is worth the potential extra expense.

"A heat pump can often seem a challenging investment if you have a functioning boiler," says Simon, "although for most people there’s almost nothing you can do that will save more emissions than installing a heat pump.

"The payback can also be attractive, but if you're extending and redoing your kitchen for example, you may need to replace the boiler anyway, and be thinking of underfloor heating," he explains.

"In that case, the additional cost of a heat pump is mitigated and you can consider a greener heating source which, if configured properly, can cost less to run, too. But, as with solar panels, you will need an MCS-certified supplier to put it in, and getting the best advice on your options before you start is essential," he adds.

Establishing your priorities

So, how do you decide your priorities when renovating a home? Involve the professionals from the start, is Clive Holland's best advice.

"Before you make an offer, take a savvy friend or professional along who knows what to look for," says Clive. "Many costly problems are visible if you know the signs – cracks, missing roof tiles, damp patches, or ageing fuse boxes.

"Then, before you touch kitchens or colours, get your survey done. A good survey will help establish your list in order of importance: structure first, then services, then aesthetics.

"Always invest in the invisible essentials," says Clive, "insulation, structure, and systems. A house that’s warm, energy-efficient, and safe will always be worth more than one that just looks the part."

Worried about rising home renovation costs when you add the above elements into your budget? "You can apply for government-backed grants for external insulation costs," says Clive Holland, "although internal improvements (such as insulated plasterboard or wall panels) do need to be self-funded," he explains.

You can also save money by thinking carefully about the finishes you choose inside the home, adds Costsel Radescu.

"Adding value to a home renovation doesn’t always mean spending a lot on expensive finishes. Key areas like kitchen and bathroom upgrades often provide a good return on investment. However, focus on functionality and longevity," he says.

"For example, investing in quality materials that will last longer can save money on future repairs. Additionally, improving kerb appeal using budget landscaping ideas can greatly enhance first impressions without breaking the bank."

Amanda Byram has given fans an exciting update on her home renovation, revealing the progress of her Scandinavian-inspired kitchen.

“I am sooo excited to see it come together now!” she shared on Instagram, @amandabyram, capturing the thrill of seeing her vision start to take shape.

Between managing family life and overseeing kitchen renovations, Amanda is embracing the process with excitement, and a bit of patience.

Scandinavian style in focus

Amanda’s plans reflect the hallmarks of Scandinavian kitchen design: clean lines, muted tones, and natural materials that combine style with practicality.

“So we went for the Scandi beauty (I know I said Swedish – I meant to say Scandi 🤣),” she wrote, highlighting her excitement for a style that feels timeless yet family-friendly.

While the space is still very much a work-in-progress, Amanda is beginning to see how the layout and materials will come together to create a practical and inviting kitchen once complete.

Seeing the space come alive

For Amanda, the most thrilling part of the renovation has been watching the kitchen’s layout truly take shape.

“I’ve never really been able to envisage just how wide this kitchen could be, but now I can see it coming together!” she said.

With her partner, Julian, frequently on-site to give surprise updates, Amanda has enjoyed seeing the project evolve even when she can’t be there in person.

Family, art, and gatherings

Amanda says the kitchen isn’t just about design, it’s about creating a space for connection.

Amanda plans to feature a striking art piece by Rajan Seth on the wall, adding personality to the space.

“I can really envisage family dinners and friend gatherings now!!” she wrote, emphasising that the kitchen is designed to be the heart of her home.

Amanda gives praise to her renovation team

Amanda credited the renovation team for their hard work: “The amazing @complete_refurbishments team are knee deep!”

She’s also eagerly anticipating the next stages of the home. “Getting close now!!” she enthused, showing that even with the challenges of renovation, seeing each stage come together makes the process worth it.

Amanda Byram’s upcoming kitchen perfectly illustrates why Scandinavian design continues to be a favourite: it’s stylish, practical, and built for family living, proving that even in progress, a Scandi kitchen can inspire.

Former footballer and manager Harry Redknapp has become the face of a new eco-friendly DIY product after being shocked by the amount of plastic waste created during his own home renovation.

Redknapp is lending his support to UniBond’s Next Generation Sealant Cartridge - a recyclable, part-cardboard alternative that the company says can reduce plastic waste by 51% and CO₂ emissions from home projects.

The product forms part of UniBond’s drive to make everyday DIY more sustainable across UK households.

‘I had no idea how much waste these simple products create’

Redknapp said his involvement came after seeing first-hand how much waste his own renovation produced.

“I’ll be honest, I had no idea the amount of plastic waste that came from those old sealant cartridges,” Redknapp said. “I’m going through my own home renovation now and it’s definitely made me think. It’s great to see more sustainable products like this available - what a game-changing impact there would be if more people made the switch.”

Traditional sealant cartridges are typically made of single-use plastic that becomes contaminated with residue and ends up in landfill.

Innovation behind the next generation cartridge

According to UniBond, the Next Generation Cartridge is made from recycled cardboard, while the plastic cap, nozzle, and piston contain at least 49% recycled material.

The company says the design produces 73% less overall waste compared to previous cartridges.

Eve Kolesova, Head of Marketing at UniBond UK & Ireland, said: “Sealant cartridges are often overlooked as a contributor to construction waste. Our goal with the Next Generation of Cartridges is to provide a solution that performs exceptionally while significantly reducing environmental impact.”

Greener homes, bigger impact

UniBond’s data suggests that around 13 million cartridges will be used by homeowners undertaking renovations over the next two years, from resealing bathrooms and kitchens to insulating lofts and windows.

The company estimates that if all those projects used the Next Generation Cartridge, it could save the equivalent of 76 million plastic bags and nearly 2,000 tonnes of CO₂, roughly equal to one person travelling eight million miles by air.

Redknapp hopes his experience will encourage more homeowners to think about sustainability when tackling home improvement projects.

“It’s made me realise how even small changes at home can make a big difference,” he said. “If more of us thought about what we’re using, the impact could be massive.”

Jamie Laing has given fans a glimpse inside the newly renovated London home he shares with wife Sophie Habboo, but admitted the process wasn’t without its challenges.

The former Strictly Come Dancing and Made in Chelsea star shared that their first renovation project together tested their patience, humour, and even their marriage.

After 14 months of design decisions, disagreements, and late-night stress, the couple can finally enjoy their dream home, and a sense of relief that they made it through together.

Building their first home together

Jamie and Sophie spent over a year transforming their London property into a stylish, modern space that reflects both of their personalities.

The Instagram reel posted by Jamie showcased the impressive “before and after” footage, revealing how the couple turned the dated house into an elegant home.

Highlights include an open-plan kitchen and dining area with a large breakfast bar and a luxurious en-suite bathroom that quickly became a fan favourite.

'Nearly divorced' - Jamie on the challenges behind the project

In a lighthearted but honest caption, Jamie wrote: “My wife and I bought our first home and started renovating it… 14 months, 10,000 arguments and nearly divorced later, we’ve finally finished.”

The TV personality also joked, “10 points to Gryffindor for that transition,” and celebrated with a “victory dance” for surviving the experience together.

While the comment was made in jest, it reflected the common strain many couples face during large renovation projects – balancing budgets, design decisions, and timelines while maintaining harmony at home.

Fans applaud the stunning transformation

Fans and celebrity friends were quick to praise the couple’s results and Jamie’s humour in sharing the journey. Stacey Dooley commented, “WOW!!” while Jess Wright called the finished home “stunning.”

Other followers focused on specific design features, with one writing, “Can we all take a moment for that shower you skipped past - absolutely stunning!” Another added: “En-suite shower is heaven!”

The overall reaction was overwhelmingly positive, with fans congratulating the couple not only for the home’s beauty but for enduring the challenges together.