When you enter a colour drenched room, you’ll know about it, as the walls, ceiling, woodwork and perhaps other features will all be painted in the same hue. For immersive impact, this decorating technique is a popular paint trend and one that stands the test of time.

Whether you’ve visited a stately home with a colour drenched interior, or you’re aware of the cost and effort savings that come with this technique, you may be curious about how to colour drench a room in your own home. After all, as well as simplifying painting, there’s also a design incentive for colour drenching. When done effectively in a suitable space, this technique can add character, impact, and a point of distinction from the rest of the property.

If you’re in need of guidance on how to colour drench your space, find out how I colour drenched my spare room, along with the products I used to achieve the look.

Things to consider before you start

Naturally, the key consideration before colour-drenching a room is deciding which colour you’ll paint it. A light or moderately light shade of paint can make a room feel airy and spacious, while darker tones are often cosy, or even dramatic.

“Colour drenching is one of the most liberating decorating techniques because it simplifies the process,” says Lauren Shaw, head of marketing for DIY at Harris. “Working with a single colour across all surfaces – including walls, ceiling, woodwork, skirting and radiators – removes many of the usual headaches around cutting in between contrasting areas."

However, choosing the right paint colour is key. “Test your colour on every surface before committing,”advises Lauren. “Paint behaves differently on a ceiling versus a flat wall, and versus a primed door, and a shade can look very different once it’s on all surfaces. So, always test samples in situ, in both natural and artificial light.”

You might also consider including a few pops of a different colour in the space using the 'peek-a-boo' paint trend. This arguably detracts a little from the colour drench effect, but in my case, we thought that it broke up the look of the space nicely. Leaning into a contrast colour, we had our radiator powder-coated yellow at a local motorcycle respraying shop (some of these businesses will paint all sorts of metal objects).

It’s also well worth mulling over whether colour drenching is the right approach to decorating a particular room, as it may suit some spaces better than others. “Colour drenching is more powerful in smaller or awkward spaces, like hallways, cloakrooms and compact bedrooms,” Lauren advises.

Patrick O’Donnell, a brand ambassador for Farrow & Ball, recommends using colour drenching in spaces that are rich in architectural detail. “Colour drenching can be a useful tool when your room has a lot of decorative embellishments such as plasterwork detailing or panelling on walls,” he says. “It allows these details to register beautifully, without the need to pick them out in a separate colour to enhance them.”

What I used to colour drench my spare room

How to colour-drench a room: step-by-step

1. Select a colour drench-suitable paint

“One area where colour drenching does require extra care is paint finish selection,” says Lauren Shaw. “Using a single flat emulsion on every surface is one approach and works well for a solid, matte look. But for woodwork and high-traffic areas, you may prefer to introduce a slightly different sheen – eggshell or satin – to add durability and a subtle texture, while keeping the colour consistent.”

For our project, we used Farrow & Ball’s ‘Arsenic’ paint colour in a ‘Dead Flat’ finish, which is suitable for coating a wide range of surfaces including walls, woodwork and radiators. This helped to create a consistent look, while minimising cost and hassle.

2. Prep the walls and ceiling with undercoat

Apply one or two coats of primer to the walls and ceilings. If you’re painting over fresh plaster, you might need to decant some of the primer into a bucket and water it down slightly for the first application. This creates a ‘mist coat’ that should adhere successfully to ‘thirsty’ plaster.

Some modern paints are self-priming. If you’re using a self-priming paint to create the final look of your colour-drenched room, you might be able to skip this step.

3. Prep and undercoat the woodwork

First, sand the woodwork throughout the room – including skirting boards and architraves – as this will help paint adhere to the wood. Apply knotting solution to any knots in the wood (this limits sap bleed), and use wood filler to fill any gaps or blemishes.

Using a tube of caulk and a skeleton gun, caulk along edges of woodwork where it meets a wall or ceiling. Remove excess caulk with damp cloth while you work (and before the caulk sets).

Finally, undercoat the woodwork as required. Protect your floor using painter’s tape and/or dust sheets, and try not to overload your paintbrush.

Products to prepare your room for colour drenching

4. Paint the room with your top colour

It’s then time to bring your colour-drenched vision to life with your top colour. Begin with the corners of the room where walls and ceiling meet, then paint the flat expanses.

“We’d always recommend starting with painting the ceiling, moving to the walls and finishing with woodwork and any smaller details,” says Lauren Shaw. “This way, any paint spatter or drips are painted over as you work down the room.” As you can see in the photos, we used paintbrushes as we like a brushed finish in our house, but you could use a roller to speed up the process.

Use painter’s tape to avoid lapping paint onto protruding features such as plug sockets, switches and light fittings, and take care over painting the detail on woodwork, as this can easily become hard to see in a colour-drenched room. For this, use a finer paintbrush, and avoid loading the bristles with too much paint.

FAQs

Is colour drenching a traditional technique?

“Colour drenching has had an editorial drive for the last three years in the interiors press, but versions of ‘colour drenching’ have been used since the 18th century,” says Patrick O’Donnell.

“Back then, great houses would often paint large halls in versions of stone shades creating very subtle differences, where now, due to the variety of colours available, any colour can be used.”

The term ‘colour drenching’ originated much more recently. Some publications have stated that the term was first used in 2022, but Google Trends data shows that people were researching colour drenching as early as 2021.

Is colour drenching just a trend?

There’s no doubt that colour drenching has been especially popular in recent years. Some homeowners might fairly wonder whether this will turn out to be a short-lived fad, or an approach which stands the test of time.

“Remember, colour drenching as we now call it is an interior design trend, and trends do pass, so think about why you want to do it,” says Patrick O’Donnell. “It does ultimately add a simplicity to a scheme, and also it doesn’t have to be in a strong colour – colour drenching can also be very beautiful in off-whites and neutrals.”

Some would say that colour drenching is a passing fancy, while others might argue that the technique’s centuries-long history suggests otherwise. What really matters is how well the colour drenching fits the room, and how well a colour-drenched space suits your home.

Still need to brush up on your painting and decorating? Read our guides on how to paint over lime plaster, tips for painting skirting boards and sanding walls before painting.

If you were still hanging onto the notion that the best approach when it comes to decorating a small space is to play it safe, then it's time to let go – particularly in the case of small bathroom ideas.

No longer viewed as just a room where we go to carry out our daily ablutions, the bathroom is now seen as a space to retreat to after a long day, or to get ready and restored for the one that lies ahead. As such, the approach you take towards its decoration really matters. As well as changing how the space feels, it can help make the most of even the most compact of rooms.

Petite proportions should be no obstacle to creating a stylish bathroom. Our round-up of ideas demonstrates how to use colour in a wide range of different ways to create all kinds of results, from spaces that cosset, to those that feel bright and breezy.

1. Don't shy away from bolder colours

There was a time when bold colours felt strictly like the reserve of those with a large expanse of space to play with – not so these days.

Ruth Mottershead, creative director at Little Greene, is keen to highlight the role bold colours can play, even in narrow bathrooms. "Bathrooms are a wonderful space in which to retreat and relax. Consider using deep, rich tones that will envelop the space and create a cocooning and calming feel."

Debbie Leigh, design manager at ILIV, agrees that bold colours can feel like a warming hug in a bijou bathroom. "Don’t be afraid to go a little bolder in a small bathroom. Deep, earthy shades like olive green, navy or rich terracotta can actually make a compact space feel wonderfully cosy and cocooning, especially when used across the walls, woodwork, and even painted furniture for a colour-drenched look."

Shop bold bathroom colours

2. Feel immersed in nature with blues and greens

Blues and greens are rarely out of favour in the world of paint trends, although, given the enormous array of shade variations out there, perhaps that should come as no surprise.

"While natural stone colours and warm neutrals work well to create a spa-like bathroom, my favourites are earthy greens and blues – true colours of nature. They're perfect for providing a cocooning, natural feel," explains Ruth Mottershead.

Wondering how to stop deep blues and greens feeling overly oppressive and moody in a small space? Debbie Leigh has some advice. "To make the scheme really work, good bathroom lighting is key to lift those deeper tones and keep the space feeling open, while natural textures, such as wood or wicker, are great for adding warmth. A coordinating blind is the perfect finishing touch, helping to tie everything together while bringing a homely feel to the room."

3. Use earthy neutrals to create a spa-like retreat

From rich browns to warming terracotta, soft mushroom to pinky cream, there are so many neutrals to choose from that it can be a little daunting. However, according to the experts, these shades are super easy to work with and perfect for small bathroom colour ideas.

"Soft neutrals, warm whites and gentle earthy tones are timeless choices for a small bathroom because they help create a space that feels light and calm," picks up Nick Duggan, director at The Radiator Centre. "These shades reflect natural light beautifully, helping even compact rooms feel more open and airy, while warmer undertones add softness.

"Earth-inspired colours also bring a sense of tranquillity to the space, creating a relaxed backdrop that feels both practical and quietly luxurious for everyday living," continues Nick. "Introducing subtle metallic touches, such as a brushed brass towel rail or fittings, can then add warmth, texture and a refined finishing detail."

4. Don't discount colour drenching a small space

For some, the idea of colour drenching can seem a little scary – painting the walls, ceiling and woodwork in the same shade, with the aim of a dramatic, all-encompassing experience. However, this is a method of painting a room that can work brilliantly in small bathrooms.

"Don’t be afraid to embrace the proportions of a small room by using darker shades in a colour-drenched scheme," says Ruth Mottershead. "One of the most effective ways to enhance a sense of sanctuary is through an enveloping colour drenching approach, painting walls, woodwork and ceilings in the same, or closely related, tones, resulting in an environment that feels cohesive, inviting and wonderfully atmospheric.

"While colour drenching can’t make a small bathroom larger, it can embrace the size of the space and create something that feels intimate and cocooning," explains Ruth. "It is a great way to decorate a room with low ceilings, too. There are no stark colour contrasts to draw the eye to the ceiling line, creating the illusion of space and height."

Interior designer, Eloise Pfeiffer, from Pfeiffer Design, has some more words of wisdom here. “You can use bold colours in a bathroom – but it’s all about confidence. We’d recommend committing to the colour fully, rather than adding a taster. Enveloping the bathroom in a single colour, or colour drenching it, can make a room feel larger and more spacious."

5. Neutrals and natural materials are timeless

If you would prefer to avoid interior design trends and instead opt for something that will stand the test of time, looking just as relevant in 10 years time as it does today, opt for nature-inspired, softer hues.

"Softer, tonal palettes often feel more timeless than bright shades, especially when paired with natural materials and warm finishes," explains Sophie Chapman, associate director and interior designer at The Vawdrey House.

Consider a vanity unit in bare wood, timber bathroom wall panelling, or even smaller bathroom accessories crafted from timber or stone to inject warmth into a neutral scheme.

6. Use the same colour family for cohesion

One of the best ways to approach the decoration of any small space is to pull together two or three colours that complement one another, rather than contrast – this results in a look that feels thoughtful, calm and cohesive, yet in no way one-dimensional or unimaginative.

"If you are looking for an expansive feeling in a small bathroom, use a light colour on the ceiling then take colours of different strengths from the same colour family across all elements – ceilings, walls and woodwork, to envelop the space in tonal colour," advises Ruth Mottershead, who goes on to reveal that pink bathroom ideas are perfect when using this technique.

"If you are looking to create a surprising and joyful feeling, pink is a fantastically versatile colour which will bring a sense of playfulness and softness to a small bathroom,” says Ruth.

7. Steer clear of stark white to avoid a sterile feel

It can be tempting to buy into the idea that an all-white scheme is best when it comes to small bathrooms, but if you want somewhere that feels personal and warm, you might want to reconsider.

“When painting small spaces, carefully consider how natural light interacts with your colour palette. Small rooms, and specifically bathrooms, are often painted in white out of habit, with the aim of making the space feel larger – however, brilliant bright whites can feel cold, generic and stark," warns Ruth Mottershead.

"One of the most common mistakes is reaching straight for brilliant white," agrees Cathryn Sanders, head of creative at Earthborn. "While it might seem like the obvious choice, very bright whites can often read quite cold in low natural light. Instead, softer off-whites or warm neutrals with gentle yellow or red undertones tend to work much better as they bring a sense of warmth while still helping to brighten the space."

8. Embrace smaller proportions using cosy colours

While you might want your bathroom to feel fresh and airy, you probably also like the idea of somewhere that feels a little cosy and restful – and this is where incorporating some warming shades, with toasty undertones, comes in.

From sunset pinks and terracotta, to rich, reassuring burgundy and even ochre, picture Mediterranean getaways and take your inspiration from there.

Before you begin, explore the bathroom colours to avoid and take note of the experts' advice when it comes to being brave here with your use of these bolder shades – no half measures, please. Just ensure you light the space well, taking a layered approach.

9. Consider fittings alongside wall colours

The bathroom tile ideas and wall colours you choose need to be considered alongside other elements you'll be incorporating into the space if you want the whole thing to look harmonious – something that's particularly important in smaller rooms.

"In small bathrooms, colour works best when it is supported by well-specified fittings and accessories. Rather than relying on colour alone, successful bathrooms use brassware and finishing details to add contrast, define the space and keep the overall look clear and cohesive," explains Jeevan Seth, CEO of JTP.

"In smaller bathrooms, combinations that allow fittings to add contrast tend to perform best," continues Jeevan. "Deep blue paired with brushed brass, and sage green paired with softer metallic finishes are great partners. Monochrome palettes can be reinforced with matt black fittings, while warmer tones such as blush or clay work effectively with softer metallic finishes. In all cases, consistency across fittings and accessories is key to a well-rounded bathroom."

10. Don't underestimate the power of lighting

You bathroom lighting could just be your best friend when it comes to lending it a sense of space, and this is one element that needs to be fully considered when selecting a colour palette too.

"It’s all about lighting," states Jonathon Barclay, director at Bowman Bathrooms Ltd."Background or ambient lighting is just as important as colour. Even the most beautiful palette will always fail under poor lighting. Layered lighting, including fittings such as LED mirrors, coffered ceiling lighting, and soft ambient lighting in recesses or over coving, dramatically changes the mood of the room and creates a feeling that cannot be achieved by colour alone."

"It’s also worth thinking about how natural light moves around the room," adds Cathryn Sanders. "Placing mirrors opposite or adjacent to windows can help reflect what natural light you do have, while choosing lighter tones for window frames or reveals can subtly bounce light back into the space."

11. Add ambience with moody, dark shades

Pale grey and anthracite have both fallen out of favour in the world of bathroom trends in the last couple of years, replaced with warmer, earthy neutrals. However, there is still a place for moody, stormy shades so don't discount greys altogether – particularly those with brown, earthy undertones.

If you love the idea of a little drama in your bathroom but are worried it'll end up feeling gloomy, Sophie Chapman has some tips. “If introducing bolder colours, we tend to balance them with texture or more muted elements to avoid the space feeling overwhelming. Ultimately, it’s about creating a room that feels calm and immersive rather than overly busy.”

"Bold colours work well when paired with contrasting materials such as reflective surfaces like glossy tiles and mirrors, as well as the right finishes that add warmth and help reflect light," adds Eloise Pfeiffer. "Pair with layered lighting to ensure the colour looks welcoming and warm, rather than cramped."

12. Warm up white walls with wood finishes

If you just love an all-white scheme, we would never stand in your way. Why not? Because, while brilliant white can undoubtedly feel a little clinical or unimaginative in certain settings, there are plenty of ways to mitigate this.

The key is to inject warmth using materials and lots of textural interest rather than relying on additional colour. Characterful layers of natural stone or brick tiles, wooden furniture and accessories, even tactile plaster finishes such as tadelakt and light fittings, particularly those with woven rattan shades, will all add so much in the way of visual depth.

"Lighter woods, painted finishes and pieces with visible legs can help maintain a sense of openness, rather than weighing the room down," advises Cathryn Sanders.

13. Use your ceiling to draw the eye upwards

All too often, not enough thought goes into ceiling ideas, particularly given the effect they can have on how big (or small) a space feels.

Providing it is not unusually low, painting a ceiling a bold shade can really help draw the eye upwards and away from the horizontal proportions of a room.

There are other ways to inject visual interest too, as Fred Horlock, design director at Neptune Europe Ltd, explains. "Pairing a deeper shade on joinery or cabinetry with a softer neutral on the walls tends to strike the right balance – you get visual interest without the space feeling busy. And if you're unsure where to start, a matt or eggshell finish will always give a more considered, settled result than a high sheen, which can amplify both colour and any imperfections in a smaller room."

14. Be selective with your palette

A little restraint when it comes to the number of different colours you use within a small space really does go a long way. A visual cacophony of colour within a confined room is always going to feel a little overwhelming.

"Limiting the palette to two or three colours keeps the room looking clean and intentional," explains Nischal Pomu, director at Platinum Paints. "A simple approach that works well is keeping the main areas light, then introducing a darker tone on a feature wall or cabinetry. This creates contrast without overwhelming the space.

"Overall, it’s less about avoiding bold colours, and more about how they’re balanced within the room," adds Nischal.

15. Get on board with 'American Maximalism'

And, finally, the overriding takeaway from all of the design experts we spoke to was not to fear the small proportions of your bathroom – instead, lean into them, embrace the bijou.

Jonathon Barclay loves the idea of taking a more adventurous approach towards bathroom design. "For me, neutral schemes might be in right now, but that’s because they are safe and timeless – but small bathrooms often need a bit more visual 'oomph' to create that design intent that small spaces can lack.

"For that reason, I do prefer to opt for bolder colours when designing small space," adds Jonathon. "My favourite theme at the moment is 'American Maximalism', which walks a fine line between chaos and harmony, but when you get it right, the effect is striking and beautiful."

FAQs

Which colour combinations work well in a small bathroom?

While it would seem that no colour is 'out' for a small bathroom, it is still worth considering which combinations tend to sit well together in a tighter space such as this. And don't forget to figure in how your choice of bathroom flooring ideas and sanitaryware will sit alongside your chosen shades either.

"Our favourites at the moment – in no particular order – are deep green paired with warm orange and/or terrazzo, which honestly just looks amazing," reveals Jonathon Barclay. "We like to pair this scheme with brushed brass fittings to complete the effect.

"Navy blue is still a big winner too, with marble-effect porcelain and brushed nickel," continues Jonathon. "It creates a timeless, elegant look that feels refined and suits a traditional theme well. For those that prefer the neutrals, warm beige tones combined with natural oak, off-white stone and brushed bronze brassware is definitely the favourite for me. It gives a modern, spa-like look that will never date and feels sophisticated."

Although most colours will fit in small bathroom ideas it's not always the case with your sanitaryware. In some cases, a bathroom will just be too tiny to squeeze in a bath, in which case it might be better to look into small shower room ideas instead.

My Pinterest feed is constantly flooded with black interiors and I've saved so many of the ideas now that 'ways to use black in interiors' is almost worthy of its own separate board in my Pinterest collection. But, is black really as easy to use as the images suggest?

Dark colours, much like light ones, when used impulsively and without the right advice can lead to regret when they don't perform or stand up to daily life in the way you'd hoped. It's why understanding how to choose paint colours is essential to the end result.

With that in mind, we asked interior experts to share their top tips on how to use black in your home, and what are the potential pitfalls if you get it wrong?

Take extra care when choosing and applying black paint

If the thought of dark and moody black walls entices you, there's a few things to consider before you reach for a fresh tin of paint and your roller. The type of paint, where you use it and how you get an professional looking finish will all need your time and attention before you pop the lid.

"Softer, off-black tones are easier to live with than jet black in residential interiors," suggests Katerina Tchevytchalova, director at K’Arte Design. "Finish is just as important, so matt or eggshell works well for walls to avoid harsh reflections, while satin or gloss can be effective for accents like joinery or front doors."

"Ideally, this colour should be used in rooms that benefit from natural light to prevent the space from feeling gloomy," continues Katerina.

"My golden rule is to avoid flat true black shades, which feel far too harsh," notes Lara Clarke, founder of Lara Clarke Interiors. "Always opt for an off-black with soot or navy undertones for a more lived-in, organic feel," she advises.

Whenever I've personally used black paint or dark colours, I've also found that you need to apply more coats than you might think. It's easy to assume that a dark shade will cover your walls easily, but if you don't get enough paint on the walls, woodwork or furniture, patchy marks will be very visible, so make sure you prepare your walls thoroughly before you start. Using sugar soap is a must to remove any bumps or texture that will impact the end result.

Shop for black paints to use in your home

Pick your partners for black wisely

Choosing which colours and finishes to use with black isn't like its polar opposite, white, where you know there's very little (if anything) that won't work. While black can marry up with many shades, what you choose will depend on the overall look you are trying to achieve.

“When it comes to any living space, incorporating the black into your decorating scheme can be a striking and impactful design choice," says Anna Hill, brand director and colour consultant at Fenwick & Tilbrook. Although she also notes that, "whilst black might not be considered a traditionally 'calm' colour, it can still create a serene and grounding atmosphere when used thoughtfully."

Dark bedroom ideas for example are one place where black could certainly become cosy when used carefully.

"Consider using it as a backdrop to allow other colours and metallic finishes to shine," continues Anna, "or use as an accent to ground the space, and add contrast with eye-catching detail.

"Black pairs beautifully with an array of textures," says Anna, recommending you, "opt for linens and cottons for a luxurious, laid-back look or velvets and metallics for a glamorous take. By thoughtfully balancing black with natural light, reflective surfaces, or vibrant accessories, you can add depth and drama without overpowering the space.”

"Black helps other materials stand out and 'pop', particularly natural finishes like timber and linen," agrees Katerina Tchevytchalova.

"Don’t be afraid to take it outside, either, painting a garden fence black makes the boundaries disappear making the space feel larger, and your greenery pop," adds Lara Clarke.

Partner these with black in your home

Consider it an accent if everywhere feels too much

Of course, if lots of black feels too much, but you like the ability it has to create interest, then think of it in a different way, says Lara Clarke.

"While a fully drenched black room is a bold statement, it’s not one I’d usually recommend," she notes. "It can be incredibly unforgiving, so instead, I find black does its best work as a sharp architectural accent, acting like a bit of sophisticated eyeliner to define a space."

"I think it’s important to use black intentionally," agrees Katerina Tchevytchalova. "Since this colour is so impactful, it’s best to use it sparingly which will feel more elevated than covering an entire room."

"We often paint window frames or doors in inky tones to frame the view, which instantly makes the garden greenery look more vivid," continues Lara. "This line work approach is also brilliant for highlighting joinery, like a staircase handrail or bespoke shelving, creating a crisp, graphic flow through the home."

FAQs

Does black hide dirt more effectively?

"The con of black finishes is that it shows dust and marks easily so will require regular care and maintenance," says Katerina Tchevytchalova. It's therefore important to make sure you use the right paint finish if you're painting your walls.

Using dark paint colours in bathrooms will mean using the right bathroom paint as well to avoid watermarks appearing on walls. And in high-traffic areas such as hallways, use a paint that can be wiped clean.

I changed my mind – how can I cover black paint easily?

"If you want to repaint a wall that is black, make sure that you use a good primer first which will reduce the number of coats needed for an even finish," recommends Katerina Tchevytchalova.

For more advice read our guide on how to paint over dark colours, and try this Zinsser Cover Stain from Amazon to give you a good base to work from.

For more advice on which colours to use – or not to use in your home, discover the 5 colours designers say to avoid in bathrooms, and see how the 60:30:10 colour rule could in fact help you get the right balance of black in your interior design scheme.

Can you ever really get rid of the smell of paint when decorating? According to the many hacks you can find on social media you can. But, do any of them actually work?

While some of them make some sense, we asked leading paint experts if there's any truth in what we're told, or if it's just something you have to put up with if you want to paint a room?

From the ridiculous to the realistic, we reveal what works when you're trying to get rid of the smell of paint, and what's just a cover-up that's a waste of your time, money and effort.

Why does paint smell?

So why does paint smell? You may have noticed yourself that not all types of paint are as pungent as others, so why is that?

"The smell present in some paints is due to higher VOC levels in paint," explains Anna Hill, brand director and colour consultant at Fenwick & Tilbrook.

VOCs, or Volatile Organic Compounds, are generally man-made chemicals that used in paint manufacture. It's what mainly gives paint its distinctive smell. They do fall under regulations in terms of how much paint should contain, but the level of VOCs can also impact how you get rid of any leftover paint, which you need to consider when recycling or disposing of your waste. Oil-based paints for example tend to contain more VOCs along with other types of solvents, so check with your local recycling centre if they will take empty or partly-filled tins of paint you no longer require, as they can't simply be poured down the sink.

In terms of what this means regarding paint smell, the higher the VOCs, the longer the paint smell may linger. "Whilst most off-gassing happens within the first 48 hours or so, some paints can continue to off-gas during a longer curing process," advises Anna.

Paint smell hacks uncovered

1. Place bowls of baking soda or activated charcoal in the room ✅

Some hacks suggest baking soda and activated charcoal as a means of removing paint smell, but do they work?

In theory, yes. Both products have odour absorbing qualities which can mean they could reduce the smell of paint if you place them around your room. Activated charcoal in particular is often used in kitchen extractor fans for odour removal, so it's not a complete myth that it could help to reduce the paint smell if you've been decorating.

The general advice is to place either baking soda or activated charcoal in bowls and distribute them around the places where you have been painting. Leave them overnight and then dispose of them the next day.

“Bowls of baking soda may absorb some odours in small, enclosed spaces," confirms Victoria Yardley, founder of Victory Colours, "while activated charcoal is generally more effective because it is specifically designed to trap airborne compounds."

“Some traditional odour-removal tricks can help a little," she continues, "but most of them only have a limited effect because they are dealing with the smell in the air rather than the cause of it."

The success rate of these hacks? It will help, but is unlikely to remove the smell entirely, but certainly won't do any harm to your air quality in the process. Activated charcoal can also be pricey compared to baking soda, so it may be that budget will need to play a part in deciding which product you try to help remove paint smell.

Shop for baking soda or activated charcoal

2. Use bowls of white vinegar or onion ❎

It's no surprise that these hacks gets mixed reactions when shared with experts.

While white vinegar can have some short term efficacy in jobs such as removing mould from washing machine seals, removing mould from grout, and I often use it with baking soda to help unblock bathroom sinks without having to use a plunger, the fact is, vinegar has its own distinctive odour.

“White vinegar can also help neutralise smells to a degree," says Victoria Yardley, "but as for some of the more old-fashioned suggestions, onions are really more of a decorating myth than a reliable solution. In practice, you are likely to end up with a room that smells faintly of onion rather than solving the paint smell properly," she advises.

The risk with both of these ideas, is that using them is simply a way of replacing one smell with another, and given whenever they are discussed, they come with the caveat of keeping windows open when doing so, it's highly likely that the natural ventilation is doing the hard work here, rather than the white vinegar or onion. The general consensus from the Homebuilding & Renovating team? They're not hacks we've ever tried, or even ones we'd consider using.

3. Add vanilla extract to the paint before use ❎

While this sounds like a nice idea, the risks outweigh the short term benefit of a less offensive smell, says Anna Hill.

"Although there are a lot of ‘solutions’ out there, we would never advise adding anything to paint that hasn’t been recommended by the manufacturer, as you run the risk of altering the chemistry or colour balance of the paint."

"Adding vanilla extract to paint is also not something I would recommend," agrees Victoria Yardley, "as it can interfere with the paint’s formulation and potentially affect the finish."

The best way to get rid of paint smell

In a nutshell, the reality is, there is no way of totally removing the smell of paint when painting walls, ceilings or woodwork. But, there are two main ways of reducing the smell, and helping it dissipate sooner.

1. Shop carefully

The first relates to careful shopping when buying paint and paying attention to what the label say.

“The best way to reduce the strong, headache-inducing paint smell when decorating is to use a high-quality paint with low, trace levels of VOCs, which makes them virtually odourless," says Anna Hill. "Using paint from manufacturers whose products contain only trace levels of VOCs will help to avoid this unpleasant smell or one that lingers."

And Victoria Yardley is in full agreement. “The best way to reduce paint smell is to tackle the issue at source by choosing the right type of paint in the first place," she confirms. "Most of the strong smell people associate with decorating comes from solvents and higher VOC levels, so opting for a modern ultra-low VOC, water-based paint can make a huge difference."

Shop for low VOC paints

2. Use fresh air — it's also free

And secondly, it's about using what nature provides us free of charge – fresh air. Whatever types of windows you have, "keeping windows open to ensure good ventilation will help when painting," says Anna.

“The most reliable way to clear paint smell is good airflow during and after decorating," agrees Victoria. Keeping windows open, encouraging cross-ventilation where possible, and allowing the room to breathe will always be more effective than relying on household hacks alone.

"In combining ventilation with low COV paint, you are reducing the number of odorous compounds being released into the space in the first place, rather than trying to mask them afterwards," she concludes.

With the jury well and truly out on some of these hacks, the solution is clear, the right paint and some good old-fashioned fresh air is the best way to get your home smelling sweeter more quickly.

You could also try using an air purifier such as the Molekule Air Pro to remove any lingering toxins, and to make sure you don't double up on whiffy walls, check out the 5 rules to follow when choosing paint colours.

I don't know whether I have just got a little bit lazy lately, but increasingly I seem to have been putting off all the home improvement jobs that desperately need doing when, in the past, I would have just cracked on and got them done and dusted. It might be that life just got so busy, or maybe, having renovated numerous houses on a DIY basis over the years, I am just done with all that now.

It is 10 years since we completed the extension and renovation of the Edwardian cottage we now call home and the place is definitely in need of a bit of a makeover – particularly the walls and woodwork. The open plan kitchen diner is painted white and, in all honesty, the paintwork has always bugged me a bit. It's not like I don't know how to paint a room but, as I recall, we used a pretty cheap paint and it was a bit of a rush job meaning you can see the brushstrokes, plus bright white really was a bad choice – around cooking areas where there are grease splatters and sauce stains that really let the whole space down.

It isn't just this room that needs repainting though, the whole house could do with a fresh coat – which seems a little daunting. For this reason I am thinking of calling in a professional to get the job done – but I know I could probably save a considerable amount of money by just doing it myself. I decided to ask the experts what they think the best course of action is.

Is DIY painting worth it?

In the past I have happily pulled out the paintbrushes and got on with it. Recently, I redecorated my daughter's room, realising that I need to up my teenage bedroom ideas and, I don't mind saying, that the results were pretty good. However, that was just one room – when it comes to the rest of the house, will the time and effort be worth it?

Jack Reading, marketing manager at Emperor Paint, had some useful advice for me. “The cost saving of going DIY is the obvious benefit, but what people don't always consider is what you can do with that saving," says Jack. "When you're not paying for a service, you can put that money into a better quality product, and that genuinely changes what's available to you. A professional decorator will typically use whatever they're familiar with. When you do it yourself, you get to make that decision. You know your home better than anyone ever will, so you know where the problems are, what needs attention before, and what you want to achieve."

There are other benefits to be had from a DIY approach too, as Cathryn Sanders, head of creative at Earthborn explains.

“Taking on a painting project yourself can be a really enjoyable way to connect with your home," points out Cathryn. "It offers the freedom to explore colour at your own pace, refresh a room over a weekend and feel a genuine sense of satisfaction in the finished result. With thoughtful preparation and a good quality paint, many homeowners can achieve a beautiful outcome, particularly in smaller spaces or on straightforward walls."

What can the professionals do that DIY can't?

The master bedroom was the last room we decorated here and by that time we had kind of run out of steam so we called in a professional to paint – he made it look so easy and the results were perfect which did make me question when to DIY and when to call in the pros.

"Sometimes calling in a professional is simply the right decision," says Jack Reading. "If the scale of a job is beyond what you can realistically manage, if significant remedial work is needed before you can even think about painting, or if the job requires specialist equipment, that's exactly what professionals are there to help with. They're well-versed in getting surfaces to the right condition and have the tools to do it efficiently. Knowing when to bring in help is just as valuable as knowing when you can do it yourself.”

"There are times when calling in a professional decorator can feel like the right choice," picks up Cathryn Sanders. "Larger projects, detailed cabinetry or older walls that require specialist preparation can benefit from experienced hands. Professionals often work more efficiently and bring a level of consistency that helps everything feel seamlessly finished."

How much can you save by DIY painting?

The main driver behind my DIY efforts in the past has been the savings that can be made by tackling jobs like this yourself. According to Checkatrade, the average painter and decorator's day rate currently sits at £325 and while how long it takes to paint a room varies, I'm guessing there's at least three to four days work here meaning I could make considerable savings if I do the job myself.

That said, you still need to factor in buying not just the paint, but also the tools for the job – and this really is no place to scrimp on quality.

"Don't underestimate the difference that good tools and a quality product make," says Jack Reading. "People can spend a lot of time and effort on the preparation and process, and then try to save money on the paint or tools, but that's where it can unravel. The product you choose determines how it looks, how easy it is to apply, and ultimately how long it lasts. Get that right, and everything else you've put into it is really worthwhile.”

"Ultimately, it is less about one option being better than the other, and more about what suits your time, budget and confidence," adds Cathryn Sanders.

How can you achieve professional painting results?

While painting walls on a DIY basis might save you money, will the results ever be as good as the pros can achieve?

"DIY painting does require more than simply opening a tin," says Cathryn Sanders. "Achieving the desired effect requires having the right tools for the job and preparing the walls properly before you start applying paint. For tools, you’ll need a good paint brush for cutting in, a short pile roller, roller tray, sandpaper to prepare uneven surfaces, low adhesive tape to create clean lines, dust sheets and some old clothes for painting in.

"To ensure an even coat, it is worth putting in the prep work before you start painting, including filling any slight cracks or small holes in the walls to allow for an even surface and much smoother result."

“The biggest tip I'd give anyone is to approach it as a process rather than just picking up a brush and getting started," adds Jack Reading. "Decorators achieve professional results because they follow a method. Surfaces are properly prepared, everything is covered and the right tools are used for the job. It can feel tempting to skip those steps and get straight to the painting, but the finish you achieve is only ever as good as the surface you're painting onto. Take the time to do it properly, and the actual painting becomes the easy part."

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FAQs

Does the type of paint you use really make a difference?

While taking a DIY approach to painting can definitely save you money, it is really important to realise that trying to make further savings by buying the least costly paint you can find is not a wise idea at all – there is a difference between expensive and cheap paints.

"When painting an interior yourself, I recommend using a high quality paint to ensure a professional, long-lasting finish," says Laura Hammett, creative director of design studio and homeware brand, Laura Hammett Living. "One of the main differences between premium and trade paints lies in the formulation. Premium paints typically contain a much higher pigment concentration and finer quality binders, which means the colour appears richer, more consistent, and more resistant to fading over time. They also tend to have better coverage, so fewer coats are needed to achieve a flawless result.

"The finish is another important distinction," continues Laura. "Premium paints create a smoother, more refined surface with minimal visible brush or roller marks, which can completely elevate the look and feel of a room. They’re also more durable and washable, making them ideal for busy homes where walls need to stand up to everyday wear without compromising on appearance."

Along with deciding whether I am going to take the DIY or professional route when it comes to repainting, I also need to make a choice on which kitchen wall colours to opt for this time round. White is definitely out for me – I'll be looking for something that adds a little more warmth yet also hides the inevitable stains and smudges that will appear over time.

I always find it fascinating how quickly some interior trends come and go, while others endure, looking as fresh and relevant today as they did when they first burst onto the scene – Shaker kitchens, natural stone flooring and good-quality built-in storage being amongst these timeless choices.

Wallpaper is a funny one here. While it has never exactly been struck off the list of interior design trends in any one year, its popularity has definitely fluctuated and certainly the patterns it comes in are constantly on the move. Paint, on the other hand, never falls out of favour, although certain shades move in and out.

I am aware that my house is in desperate need of redecorating and am toying with the idea of wallpapering certain areas – something I have to admit I have never done before. Paint just seems such an easy way to finish off the walls. With this in mind, I reached out to the experts for their opinions on whether wallpaper or paint is seen as the better option these days – here's what they had to say.

Wallpaper vs paint – is one better than the other?

While both paint and wallpaper are methods of finishing off walls, I realise that they are quite different. But is one of these wall covering ideas better than the other – and why?

"It’s a question I’m asked often, and in reality, the most successful homes use both wallpaper and paint, but in very intentional ways," reveals interior designer Holly Scott, founder of Holly Scott Interior Design. "Wallpaper vs paint isn’t about which is better – it’s about what the space needs."

"Both paint and wallpaper are beautiful ways to shape the mood and style of a room, and choosing between them often comes down to the atmosphere you want to create as well as the level of practicality required," explains Cathryn Sanders, head of creative at Earthborn.

When is paint a better option than wallpaper?

Painting a wall is a job well within the capabilities of most DIYers, making it the go-to option for many – available in a mind-boggling array of shades and in all kinds of finishes to suit every setting you can think of.

"Whether you’re new to painting or a DIY expert, painting tends to be easier than hanging wallpaper as this can require more skill," picks up Cathryn Sanders. "Paint tends to feel more adaptable and approachable, it is usually quicker to apply and it requires fewer specialist tools.

"Paint also allows homeowners to refresh or change a scheme with relative ease, whereas hanging and removing wallpaper can be quite time consuming," continues Cathryn. "Maintenance is also simpler, particularly in busy or humid spaces where washable finishes are easier to look after and can simply be wiped clean. Finally, paint tends to be more affordable than wallpaper, plus you don’t need as many tools which adds to it being more cost-effective overall."

James Mellan-Matulewicz, creative director and interior designer at Bobbi Beck, points out that certain areas of the home are more suited to paint than wallpaper.

"Paint is often better suited to hallways, kitchens and utility rooms than wallpaper," says James. "These are high-traffic areas where marks and scuffs are more likely, and being able to touch up or refresh with paint makes it a much more practical choice over time."

Pros of paint:

• More affordable overall than wallpaper
• Quicker to apply
• Perfect for creating subtle backdrops
• Easy to paint over if you change your mind
• Huge range of colours
• Scrubbable finishes available for high-traffic areas

Cons of paint:

• Multiple coats required
• Cutting-in can be tricky
• Can be messier to apply
• Will chip over time – many experts say wallpaper is the more durable option

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When is wallpaper a better option than paint?

Next up, wallpaper. In the past, it garnered a bit of a bad reputation, mainly due to the slew of quick-fix makeover shows of the 1990s that saw designers using it to create bold feature wall ideas that you just knew would look dated a few months down the line. However, according to the experts, things have changed.

"Wallpaper works beautifully in bedrooms, dining rooms and lounges, where you tend to unwind and spend more time. Even though these can be busy spaces, they’re places to switch off, and adding pattern to the walls injects a more personal, contemporary feel," explains James Mellan-Matulewicz, who goes on to point out that even when it comes to how to hang patterned wallpaper, this task is no longer such a fiddle thanks to modern developments.

"With the rise of paste-the-wall papers, the process has become far more straightforward," says James. "Applying adhesive directly to the wall makes it easier to position and adjust, and overall it can feel less fiddly than expected. Each drop covers a good amount of surface area, and any excess paste is generally easier to clean away than paint splashes."

"Wallpaper comes into its own when you want to add depth, character and a clear design statement," agrees Holly Scott. "I most often use wallpaper behind a bedhead to create a focal point and anchor the room, behind a sofa in a living room to define the seating area and add interest and in cloakrooms to create a sense of drama and personality in a smaller space. I also use it in areas that feel flat or lack character, particularly after a renovation. Wallpaper brings pattern, texture and movement into a space, which is often what’s missing when a room doesn’t quite feel finished."

Wallpaper pros:

• Durable – can last for a decade if applied properly, according to James Mellan-Matulewicz
• Perfect for creating a focal point
• Will help add depth and personality to a characterless space
• Now available in moisture-proof versions

Cons of wallpaper:

• Takes a little practice and patience to hang
• You need the right tools for the job
• Can peel and bubble if walls are not prepared properly
• Bold patterns can be more likely to date

Is wallpaper more expensive than paint?

Overall, paint came out on top in the affordability stakes, but actually, it is important to be aware that there is a difference between cheap and premium paints and, if you want a quality finish, you might find there isn't too much in it when comparing costs between wallpaper and paint.

"In terms of cost, there isn’t a huge difference at the higher end. Premium paints can range from £60 to over £100 per tin, with wallpapers sitting at similar price points," points out James Mellan-Matulewicz. "While paint will cover a larger area initially, it often needs refreshing more regularly. Wallpaper, if chosen well, tends to stay in place for much longer, making it a worthwhile investment."

"Paint is generally more cost effective, particularly in larger spaces," says Holly Scott. "Wallpaper can feel more expensive upfront, but it often delivers more impact in a smaller area. A single wallpapered wall can completely transform a room without the need for multiple layers of styling."

Is paint or wallpaper more durable?

If you are going to the effort of buying materials and spending time carrying this job on a DIY basis, you want to know your chosen finish is going to stand the test of time. So does paint or wallpaper promise a longer lifespan?

"When it comes to longevity, wallpaper often has the edge," reveals James Mellan-Matulewicz. "A good-quality paper, properly applied, can last well over a decade, whereas painted walls typically need refreshing every few years, even with premium finishes. Many wallpapers are now wipeable too, making them a practical option for family homes or busier areas.

"Preparation is key for both, whether you’re painting a house or wallpapering, properly cleaning and priming the walls will make all the difference to the final finish."

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Wallpaper or paint – the conclusion

After looking at the pros and cons of both paint and wallpaper, I think that there is no right or wrong option here. In fact, in many cases, a combination of both seems to be the most attractive route.

"Rather than viewing them as competing options, many homeowners now combine the two," picks up Cathryn Sanders. "Paint can create a calm, cohesive backdrop across larger areas, while wallpaper adds focal points, personality and layered interest within a space.”

"The best results come from layering both," agrees Holly Scott. "Paint creates the structure of the scheme – wallpaper or creative detailing is what makes it feel designed. From a design perspective, the biggest decorating mistake I see is relying on paint alone and wondering why the space still feels unfinished. That’s usually where wallpaper, texture or pattern is needed to add depth and interest."

"Ultimately, it comes down to personal style and how you use the space," adds James Mellan-Matulewicz. "Paint is ideal for a quick, easy refresh, but if you’re looking to bring in character and make more of a statement, wallpaper offers far greater impact."

FAQs

Is paint easier to apply than wallpaper?

One of the things that has put me off wallpapering in the past has been the idea that wallpaper is rather unwieldy, making it time-consuming and difficult to hang – one of those DIY jobs best left to the professionals. But am I right or is this just a myth?

"Paint is far more forgiving and is usually the easiest option for homeowners to take on themselves," says Holly Scott. "Wallpaper requires precision. Pattern matching, alignment and finishing details make a big difference to the end result. Paste-the-wall papers have improved accessibility, but for a polished finish, I would still often recommend bringing in a professional."

"While paint has traditionally been seen as the quicker option, wallpaper is shedding its reputation for being overly time-consuming," adds James .

That said, if you’re working to a tight timeline or tackling smaller, more awkward, spaces like cloakrooms or utility areas, paint is usually the more straightforward and practical route.

Spring is the ultimate time for redecorating so if your home is in need for an update be sure to check out these easy DIY projects to get your home looking shipshape in no time.

If decorating your home brings you joy, there's a new paint trend hitting homes that could see you running to your nearest paint store. The sheer name of it alone is enough to bring a smile to your face, let alone seeing it in action.

Plus, once you understand what it is, including it in your home is as easy as the children's game it's named after. It doesn't always require a full tin of paint either, making it a cost-effective way of updating your home's interiors.

Find out just what the 'peek-a-boo' paint trend is, how to use it and browse our gallery of ideas for creating 'peek-a-boo' moments in your home.

What is the 'peek-a-boo' paint trend?

As the name suggests, the 'peek-a-boo' paint trend is about creating surprise. In much the same way as the game is played, it's about hiding and then revealing yourself, and in the case of paint, it's about hiding a colour where you least expect it.

“The ‘peek-a-boo paint theory’ is a decorating trend that focuses on adding small but striking flashes of colour in unexpected places, such as inside cupboards, along skirting boards or on edges of windows or doors," confirms Helen Shaw, director of marketing (International) at Benjamin Moore.

"Sometimes also referred to as a 'whisper colour', the 'peek-a-boo' concept has been growing in popularity, seeing designers and homeowners alike using colour in really unexpected, fleeting moments, as opposed to dominating an entire design scheme," expands Anna Hill, brand director and colour consultant, Fenwick & Tilbrook.

"These are intentional pops of colour that bring personality to a space, and offer a low-risk way of introducing brighter colours in what could be an otherwise cohesive design scheme."

"It’s a great way for those who are a little colour-shy to add personality into their home through subtle yet vibrant details, rather than committing to a fully painted feature wall or large block of colour," adds Helen. "It encourages people to be brave and rebel against decorating rules. It takes confidence to ‘paint outside of the lines’, but it’s one of the easiest ways to make an impressive impact."

Where to use the 'peek-a-boo' paint trend

So how can you use the 'peek-a-boo' trend to get the best results in your home?

"To bring the 'peek-a-boo' trend into the home, you need to think about contrast and where these pops will be most effective," advises Anna Hill. "Rather than committing to full walls, tuck bursts of colour away," she says. "Whether it's the inside of a cupboard that flashes open to reveal a bold hue, the slim edge of door that looks neutral until swings open, or the back of an alcove that frames the pieces within it, it's about using colour where it's least expected."

"Architectural pockets such as cabinet interiors, painted stair risers or even the underside of a console unit are all great for adding a touch of the unexpected," she continues.

It can also help if you think about the flow and layout of your room too, suggests Helen Shaw. "The 'peek-a-boo' paint theory works particularly well in places where small glimpses of colour appear as you move through a space. These subtle flashes of colour create moments of surprise and visual interest.

When thinking about ways to use the trend, look at if you can use colour in way that "draws attention to beautiful features that might otherwise go unnoticed, while also adding depth and a sense of layering to a room,” suggests Cathryn Sanders, head of creative at Earthborn.

“When we talk to customers about using colour in this way, we always suggest starting by looking at what is already there," she continues. "Built-in storage, skirting boards, window recesses and internal shelving are all natural opportunities to experiment. These are areas the eye naturally travels to, so even a small amount of colour can have real impact.

"It can also work beautifully between rooms," continues Cathryn. "Painting the inside edge of a doorway or the back of an alcove in a contrasting shade creates a soft visual connection from one space to another, helping a home feel more cohesive and thoughtfully designed.”

Choosing your 'peek-a-boo' colours and paint finish

Feel like experimenting with the 'peek-a-boo' concept? Take time to think about the colours you want to feature, and the type of paint you'll be using say the experts.

"Once you've found the perfect spot, choose colours that either harmonise with your design scheme, choosing a deeper tone from the same palette for a sophisticated look, or add a touch of surprise with a bright, contrast pop," recommends Anna Hill.

"Opting for paints with a higher sheen can also add to the effect by catching the light in smaller spaces, although matt paints also work just as well," she notes.

"Ultimately, as you're playing with a smaller, less visible surface area, you can also be braver and experiment with high-pigment shades, high sheen finishes or even use a single colour that appears throughout the space as an accent, for a quietly bold but cohesive thread," says Anna.

And, if the element of cohesion is important element to you, then Helen Shaw says you can use the 'peek-a-boo' trend to pair furniture and accessories in the same shade, as this will help lock the scheme together. It can be your 10% colour in the 60:30:10 rule which is another popular interior design approach.

The element of unity is something that Cathryn Sanders also alludes to in her suggestions.

“Contrast works best when it feels balanced rather than dramatic. Complementary colours can be very effective, but softer or chalkier versions often feel more liveable in smaller areas," she says.

"Tone-on-tone schemes are another lovely option, for example using a deeper shade within shelving against lighter surrounding walls," Cathryn suggest. "Ultimately, 'peek-a-boo' colour is about bringing small moments of joy and individuality into a space. It allows people to be playful with colour in a way that still feels calm, intentional and easy to live with.”

Essentials for creating your 'peek-a-boo' moments

Ideas for using the 'peek a boo' trend in your home

Whether you're adding a 'peek-a-boo' moment to your walls, windows or wooden cabinets, you still need to make sure it's painted to perfection. For advice on getting clean edges and pristine finishes, find out whether painters tape or masking tape will give you the neatest lines, and discover what a professional DIY expert recommends when cutting in paint.

One thing homeowners often forget (myself included), is that understanding how to choose a paint colour is as much of a practical task, as it is a personal preference.

While paint trends can steer you in terms of which colours might work in certain rooms, what they are unlikely to do is to go into greater detail as to the other elements that can impact how a colour actually looks on your walls.

Having moved over 20 times in the last 30 years, and therefore having decorated more than my fair share of walls, these are the hard and fast rules I follow when choosing a paint colour – as well as the ways not to choose one.

1. Never trust a paint label

Seasoned renovators amongst you will no doubt be shaking your heads in disbelief that I did this, but on a few early occasions I'll admit to buying paint in a hurry and assuming it would look like it did on the tin. A rookie error that's easy to make, but one that resulted in my 'tomato soup' orange hallway walls being a talking point for years. For clarity, I thought the shade shown on the tin was red which was a bold enough choice in itself, but the final colour on the walls was far from red.

Did I change it? I actually didn't. I ended up keeping it and working the rest of my hallway decor ideas around it as it was pretty striking – although there was often a request for sunglasses as visitors walked through the doors.

The lesson? Labels are purely an indicator, as are paint chip cards. What may look like the perfect chalky white can suddenly show up as grey or cream once applied to the wall. And don't even get me started on creams that end up being yellow once they are applied and have dried. A label is not to be trusted. Treat it more as a name card to confirm you have purchased the right tin of paint instead.

2. Always test the colour on every wall in a room

While this may sound like common-sense, hear me out. It can be easy to pop a tester pot on one wall in your room and assume that it works (more on tester pots coming up). But the reality is, each wall will face a different direction, and therefore receive a different amount of light. And light, is without doubt, the biggest influence on how a paint colour is seen by the human eye.

As a trained photographer, I know that light impacts everything we see and can fundamentally change how we perceive a shade or tone. Not convinced? Stand in front of a window with natural light and take a selfie. Turn around and take the same image. In the one where natural light shines on you, your skin tone will appear lighter and you'll look refreshed. Turn around and you'll either see your tone looking more sallow, shadows will appear and you may have a totally different hue depending on the rest of the colours in the room.

It's no different with the paint you put on your walls. So don't just rely on seeing your chosen shade on one wall – you need to try it on them all. And also on your ceiling if you're choosing to colour drench. The same goes if colour capping is your approach. Test the paint everywhere it will be used.

3. Check the colour during the day, night and under different types of light

Staying on the subject of light, I'd also recommend only finalising your paint colour once you've viewed it in a variety of different lights. Natural light may form your daytime view, but can also be tempered by the use of window coverings such as blinds or curtains.

At night, as well as there being no natural light, you'll also find the colour changes under artificial light and this may influence whether you opt for cool or warm temperature bulbs. In many rooms such as bedrooms and living rooms, a warm tone will generally give the space a nicer feel, but in more practical spaces such as kitchens or utility rooms, a cooler light may feel more illuminating.

If your ceiling lighting is in place, see how the colour looks at night with it switched on, and if you've got table or floor lamps ready to put in situ, don't be afraid to get them out of the box and test them with paint samples on your walls. I'd say this is particularly important in living rooms, dining rooms and in kitchen diners where you may spend a lot of time under artificial light.

4. Be careful how you apply your tester pot

Even though from the advice so far it's clear that choosing a paint colour involves spending time living with your preferred shade for longer than 10 minutes, it's also important to appreciate that there's a checklist of dos and don'ts when it comes to using tester pots too.

While this won't apply to every room or wall that you're choosing a new colour for, do bear in mind the following when using a tester pot.

• What is the current colour of your wall? Will the colour underneath affect the one you're putting on top?
• Do you need to add more than one coat to get an accurate colour? If so, be warned that this may leave visible marks when it comes to painting over it. Or, even influence a different colour if you decide that it was the wrong shade and need to choose a new one. If you test a dark shade and then opt for a lighter one for example, you'll need to trial it in a different area – or paint over the discarded choice in a neutral shade to start again from scratch.
• Is the tester pot in the right finish? If you want matt, get a matt tester pot. Any other finish will have a small or more obvious sheen which will react differently to light than a matt finish.

Are stick-on paint swatches a better idea?

Given there are a number of variables that will potentially change how a colour looks on your walls, but the larger the test area, the better feeling you will get for how the paint looks, are stick-on paint swatches a better idea?

I've tried them and I'd say they certainly are handy if you want to avoid covering up random squares of colour on your walls with your chosen shade. Likewise, they can be moved around a room giving you the chance to test how the colour looks in different lights. However, they are still fairly small in size and can be tricky if you are choosing a vibrant or more distinctive colour.

Another alternative is to buy a cheap roll of lining paper, cut large lengths, paint on these and temporarily attach them to your walls with tape. While the colour of the paper may not match what's on your walls, if you're painting directly over a mist coat it can prevent you marking your new walls. Just don't forget to apply more than one coat to get a true indication of the final tone.

5. Don't forget to test it against furniture and fixtures

The final way I make sure I'm choosing the right paint colour? Paint a piece of lining paper and carry it around with you when selecting fixtures and fittings, or buying furniture and flooring.

There's a reason interior designers swear by moodboards. You can't view each element of your interior in isolation. They all have to marry together if you want an end result that's cohesive and considered. Even an eclectic interior style, where patterns, colours and styles are seemingly thrown together are usually the result of a clever blending process. It may be invisible to the untrained eye, but it's rare for there not to be threads that bind it all together.

So don't pick large items or your flooring without your paint to hand. One shade lighter or darker can make all the difference to choosing the right or wrong paint colour in your home.

The best painting tools for applying your new paint colours

Do the experts agree?

Keen to see if there are any other tips and tricks you can employ when choosing a paint colour? Here's what two paint experts recommend. As well as recommending the techniques I've learnt over time, they also have some other pointers you might want to bear in mind.

Jon Mee, Technical Advisor at Earthborn

1. Test the colour properly

“Dry paint will often look different to when the paint is wet, so testing your paint in the room first will save on effort, money and time if you decide later you don’t like the colour. If testing on your walls, ensure you’re painting a thick enough layer. Paint your chosen colour on to an A4 card and move it around the room to test it in different lights.”

2. Choose the right finish

“Ensuring you opt for the right kind of paint is essential to achieving a high-quality and suitable finish for your chosen room. Claypaint is breathable and offers an ultra-matt finish, covering walls very well. This finish is ideal for older homes or lime plastered surfaces in particular, but it is very amenable for a variation of rooms. A Lifestyle emulsion is better for rooms that need paintwork to be washable or easier to wipe down and maintain such as hallways or children’s room.”

3. Think beyond the colour

“When choosing a paint, there are certain steps you can take to benefit those that suffer from allergies or asthma; this is especially important in households with children or pets as both can be susceptible to these risks. Virtually VOC-free paints emit negative ions which are known to provide health and wellbeing benefits for allergy sufferers. Even after the paint has dried, people can suffer, so it is important to choose paints that will reduce the likelihood of this.”

Jen Devaney, Frenchic Paint’s Colour Consultant

"Test colours in real light at different times of day. And trust your body," says Jen. "What is your first reaction when you look at the colour? When choosing the perfect paint colour, think about the mood and the purpose. Not just the function of the room but how you want to feel in it.

"Narrow it down to a few options and then test large patches on the wall," she continues. "Live with them. Watch them shift in different light and moments. Let the right colour choose you not the other way around. Also avoid choosing colours in isolation, without thinking about how they interact with the space.

"Make sure you don't go too cool in north-facing rooms," adds Jen, noting how choosing a paint colour correctly applies to painted furniture choices too. "It’s important to note whether the cupboards, for example, will serve as an accent colour, or are the main colours. Make sure, if they’re an accent colour, the cupboard colour works with the wider room as well."

In summary, understanding on a practical level how to choose a paint colour involves taking into account light, location, how you use the room and what else will be in the room with the paint colour.

Not sure where to start in terms of what colours you want to test? Start by reading the advice in the best colours for a bedroom, and find out what experts suggest is the the best colour for a living room.

TV presenter and property expert Laura Hamilton has revealed the results of her latest home renovation, transforming a dated dining room into a bold, dramatic space.

Once filled with green carpet, wallpaper borders and floral curtains, the room now features satin black-painted walls and floors paired with grey wallpaper for a moody, high-impact look.

Even more impressive, the striking renovation came in at under £1,000, proving statement interiors don’t have to cost the earth.

Revealing the hidden potential

When she first moved in, Laura knew the room had potential despite its dated décor.

“The carpet was green. There was a green wallpaper border all the way around the room… and some nice floral curtains. It just wasn’t a room that I was proud to show off to my friends,” she said. The breakthrough came when she discovered wood block flooring under the carpet.

“I knew I could definitely do something with that, and it wasn’t going to break the bank,” she explained, setting the tone for a clever, budget-conscious renovation.

Moody, dramatic walls and floors

Laura took a bold approach to colour and texture, painting both the floors and the lower walls in satin black while adding grey wallpaper to the top half.

“I know what you’re probably thinking… black floor, black walls… it feels dramatic, it feels moody, it feels quite luxurious,” she said.

She added wood beading and a dado rail to create a panelling effect – a high-end look achieved cheaply: “It’s not wood panelling. It’s the original wall with wood beading, dado rail, and it’s just been painted. This is a much more cost-effective way of creating a panelling effect.”

The A Place in the Sun presenter decided that rather than replacing these features, a lick of paint was enough to give the dining room a completely different look, and she achieved it.

Shop black satin paints for your own project

Updating the lighting for a softer glow

Lighting also played an important role in finishing the space and complementing the room’s darker palette.

Laura refreshed her dining room lighting ideas by replacing the dated wall lights that were already in the dining room. She kept the fittings in their original positions, however, to avoid unnecessary electrical work.

She opted for new fittings with a more modern feel, choosing dark grey metal wall lights with a gold interior. “I found these from Dunelm… they couldn’t be more perfect because they have that dark grey metal shade with this gold detail inside,” she said.

The metallic detail helps soften the dramatic scheme, creating a warm glow that balances the satin black walls and painted floor while reinforcing the room’s moody, luxurious feel.

Brighten your space with these wall lights

A statement room on a budget

This combination of beautiful dining room ideas has resulted in a scheme that feels sophisticated and luxurious, despite a budget of under £1,000.

“I think it is a pretty good transformation from what it looked like to what it looks like now… it was that dreary, dated, drab 80s dining space. And now I think it definitely has the wow factor with a luxurious feel,” Laura said.

Her renovation proves that with strategic colour choices, clever detailing and reused pieces, even modest budgets can produce a statement interiors.

You can see more of Laura's journey on her YouTube channel, Property with Laura Hamilton.

The overall kerb appeal of a house is hinged on getting certain elements just right – the windows, cladding, driveway and, of course, the front door.

As the entrance to the rest of house, your front door ideas really matter and part of ensuring yours looks smart and stylish (and stays that way) is hinged on the paint you choose for it.

Your choice of front door paint shouldn't just be based on colours – although obviously this is an important consideration – but also needs to take into account durability and its suitability for withstanding the elements. We asked the experts for their advice on the best options.

Which type of paint is best for a front door?

There are lots of different types of paint, each offering various qualities that make them suitable for a range of applications. In the case of front doors, though, the variety you select needs to be suitable for exterior use as well as hardwearing enough to take the knocks and bangs this element of your home has to endure.

"When choosing an exterior paint, it’s important to find a product that can resist the elements and won’t easily fade or chalk, as well as one that is breathable and allows moisture to escape so it doesn’t blister in damp conditions," explains Benjamin Moore's Helen Shaw.

"Exterior woodwork will also flex with changes in temperature and humidity throughout the year, so choosing a specialist exterior paint for these areas is essential," continues Helen. "Products like Benjamin Moore Element Guard or Aura® Exterior can be mixed into a vast range of colours and resist the toughest of climatic conditions, like wind driven rain, so you can be as creative on the outside of your home as inside."

Shop front door paints

Is gloss or matte paint best for a front door?

These days there is a huge range of exterior woodwork paints available – in all kinds of finishes. If you are weighing up oil vs water-based paints, while oil-based gloss paints are undeniably durable, they can be tricky to apply and the high shine finish they give isn't for everyone. That said, dead flat emulsion paint often won't be durable enough for this use.

"We offer four sheen levels for exterior paints with satin, semi-gloss and gloss recommended for front doors as they offer a shinier, more reflective look with greater levels of durability and better stain resistance than lower sheen," says Helen Shaw. "They are also ideal for areas that crave definition where architectural details like bevelling and panelling are customary for a rich, lustrous look."

Stick to water-based eggshell, satin or semi-gloss paints, and double check they are suitable for exterior use.

How can you ensure your paint finish lasts?

Just as when painting a wall, Preparation is key to a good, long-lasting paint finish. At a basic level, what that means is sanding it, ensuring it is free of dust and debris and using a good primer beneath your chosen paint. However, there are other factors to take into account if you don't want to find yourself repainting the door a few months down the line.

"When it comes to decorating your door, we would not recommend painting in the winter months, as painting in cold conditions can present problems," advises Sara D’Souza, content strategist and creator at Frenchic Paint. "Cold temperatures can slow down the drying and curing process of paint which can lead to a variety of problems which can affect long term durability of the surface as well as white 'bloom' appearing, which is a clouding of the paint.

"We recommend waiting until the warmer months to repaint your front door and make sure the temperature is above 10°C during application and the initial curing period of 48 hours (don’t forget that even in spring temperatures can drop at night!)."

What paint colours are best for front doors?

Obviously you will want to choose a colour you love for your front door colour, but certain shades can work better than others when it comes to boosting kerb appeal. Your house style should play a big part in the colour you choose, but it doesn't hurt to brush up on the current trends either – you might just be inspired to try something a little different.

"When choosing your door colour, think about how it will respond to your brick, stone or render," advises Patrick O’Donnell, brand ambassador at Farrow & Ball. "Sampling is really important before you invest in your top coat colour. We are loving ox blood reds such as Deep Reddish Brown in Full Gloss against red brick, and Inchyra Blue in Exterior Eggshell looks beautiful against most stonework.”

"There has been a significant increase in the popularity of bold and bright colours such as yellow and blue rather than the more traditional black or white," picks up Helen Shaw. "Consider drawing on the natural environment and choosing tones which mimic the setting, such as sky blue or forest green, as this not only adds familiarity and comfort to the home but complements nature rather than distract from it.”

And, finally, Patrick O'Donnell has a useful trick for really making your front door stand out.

“Quite often front doors will have a thin wooden frame around them and most people leave this white – don’t! Painting the frame in the same colour as your door will help give a greater sense of scale and proportion."

FAQs

Can you paint a front door in hot weather?

I speak from experience here when I say that it is not a good idea to paint any exterior woodwork in extreme heat. Last summer, I picked one of the hottest days of the year to repaint our front door – bad idea.

Avoid painting your door when the temperature is above 30°C if you want to stop paint peeling as it will cause the paint to dry too quickly, potentially leading to blistering and flaking.

What colours should you avoid painting a front door?

While some colours are universally popular for front doors, there are others that, according to the experts, you should steer clear of.

"Given it’s one of the highest traffic areas of the house, white is probably best avoided, as it will show up dirt and grime so easily," points out Sara D’Souza. "Although, if you do want a monochromatic look, greys are always popular for front doors. The deep mid-grey of Greyhound by Frenchic is particularly popular for front door transformations. Then you can bring a bright white on the door frame for an eye-catching contrast."

At the same time as addressing your front door be sure to look into window colours – ideally the two need to be chosen at the same time to ensure they sit well together.

Despite its thick consistency, you might be surprised with the answer to the question, 'does paint freeze?' While there can be some differences depending on the type of paint, the fact is, paint can, and does freeze.

So, to help you avoid a DIY disaster this winter, we asked paint experts to explain why does paint freeze, how you can avoid it happening and if you've already discovered a frozen tin of paint, is there anything you can do to salvage it?

From where not to store your paint, to solutions for bringing it back to life, here's what's recommended.

Do all types of paint freeze?

"Paint can certainly freeze, and it mainly happens if it’s stored in conditions that are too cold," confirms Anna Hill, brand director and colour consultant at Fenwick & Tilbrook.

As with any item that freezes, the key number is when the temperature reaches 0°C or 32°F. Go below this and it's almost inevitable that the freeze will set in. However, not all paints will immediately freeze at this temperature.

"Water-based paints are the most affected and will certainly freeze given half a chance!" says Anna. "This is because of the water content, and when the water freezes, it expands and breaks down the structure of the paint, causing the binders and pigments to separate," explains Anna.

"Once that structure is damaged, it can’t always be put back together," explains James Knighton, Victory Colours' technical director. "In short: freezing disrupts the chemistry that makes paint behave like paint. Solvent-based paints on the other hand are far more resistant and rarely freeze in normal UK conditions," James adds.

That said, cold conditions can still have the potential to make oil-based paints thicken. Plus, if the temperature of the space where you store your paint repeatedly drops way below freezing, even oil-based paints may potentially succumb to damage.

How can I make sure my paint doesn't freeze?

The key to paint not freezing? Storing it in the right place, something Homebuilding & Renovating's brand director and experienced renovator, Laura Crombie, discovered to her peril.

"We purchased around 15 litres of premium paint to use in our home renovation and happily popped it in the garage without a second thought," she tell us. "It stayed there throughout the winter, and when we were finally ready to paint, we bought it inside.

"Popping off the lids was a big shock," she continues. "Instead of beautifully smooth emulsion that just needed a quick stir, it had all completely separated inside the tin. Even stirring it well made no difference. It was ruined and we had to dispose of it."

So how you can avoid making the same mistake?

"Paint should always be stored somewhere dry, frost-free and temperature-stable, ideally between 5 and 20°C," recommends James Knighton. "If you wouldn’t be comfortable sitting in the space in winter without a coat, your paint won’t be either," he adds.

"We recommend that when it comes to storing paint, it is kept upright in dry conditions above 5°C and protected from frost," agrees Anna. "This means the garden shed, van, or garage is not an advisable home for your paint as they are more exposed to extreme temperatures."

"The best places are: a utility room, a cupboard under the stairs or a heated garage or workshop," advises James. A stable temperature is the key to paint not freezing, which also means you might also want to avoid the attic if your loft insulation isn't up to scratch.

"We've since made the decision to store our paint under the sink in the utility room," confirms Laura. "It's not too hot, or too cold and we've not had any issues since we made the switch."

What can you do if your paint has frozen?

The good news is, "that if paint is stored above about 5°C, then generally good quality paint will keep for a good few years," Anna Hill tells us.

However, and this is where you need to take note. "Store it somewhere too cold and let it freeze for an extended period of time and I would say there really is no coming back from that," she warns. But, how long it's been cold can make a difference to whether you get to use your paint or not.

"If paint has been lightly frozen once or twice and allowed to thaw slowly at room temperature, it may still be usable," says James Knighton. "However, if paint has frozen solid, frozen multiple times, or separated into lumps, it’s usually beyond saving. The structure of the paint breaks down, which affects performance, durability and finish. At that point, it’s best not to risk it."

"If it’s only been exposed to extreme cold for a short time, I’d recommend letting it thaw out indoors, mechanically stirring it, and then checking for a smooth, creamy consistency," Anna says.

"Do remember though you don’t want cottage-cheese texture or sour-smelling paint," she adds. "If this is what you see when you open the tin, they're clear signs your paint has gone off and shouldn’t be used at all," she warns.

Keen to know the other signs that the paint you've been storing might have seen better days? Find out how to tell if your emulsion paint has gone off, and then make sure you know how to dispose of paint the correct way to avoid any environmental impact.

Some surfaces are an absolute nightmare to paint – we’re looking at you, dining room chairs, staircases, and fence slats! But what if there were a simple way to get into those fiddly gaps, and one that wouldn’t cost you the earth?

Well, Homebuilding’s content director, Laura Crombie, has found the “ultimate DIY hack” for tackling tricky paint jobs – and the best part is that it will cost you less than £10 in the supermarket.

This might come as a surprise, but she’s been using a self-tanning mitt to paint those awkward surfaces and says it’s the best painting hack she’s ever found. She’s even recommended it to many of her friends.

Laura explains, “I’ve been DIY-renovating this house in Worcestershire for five years and was clueless at painting furniture before I started. I used to end up with brush marks and drips when I painted anything fiddly, but a friend mentioned trying the tanning mitt and I had to give it a go.”

To find out how she uses it for a streak-free finish – and where to buy the best tanning mitts for your DIY job – keep on reading.

How to use a tanning mitt for paint projects

This hack is ideal for painting everything from dining chairs and tables to staircases, wooden bedframes, and fence slats. To help get you started, Laura has put together a step-by-step guide for you to follow:

1. Choose your tanning mitt
Laura explains that the better the quality of your tanning mitt, the better your finish will be, so don’t scrimp when choosing one. Luckily, they’re all very affordable and you can get a good one for less than £10 (like this TanOrganic one from Amazon).

2. Wear gloves underneath
Once you’ve bought your tanning mitt of choice, Laura recommends wearing a pair of disposable gloves or an old pair of washing-up gloves underneath (“otherwise you’ll end up with a very messy hand!”)

3. Apply the paint
Laura places a blob of the best furniture paint onto the mitt using a brush, massages it in, and then applies it to the surface. Alternatively, you can use it to apply the primer first. “Use sweeping motions around spindles, then wipe onto flat surfaces and dab off to get an even finish.”

4. Apply another coat
This painting hack works best when you apply two thin coats.

"There are decorating projects where the traditional paintbrush is just too awkward and time consuming," says homes expert Laura Deller. "In these moments, using the dexterity of your fingers, combined with a super absorbent pad, can make a tedious decorating job almost enjoyable!"

Where to buy self-tanning mitts for painting

Keen to give this painting hack a go? Here are some high-quality self-tanning mitts we'd recommend:

This handy trick is easy and affordable and will save you so much time on those tiresome painting jobs. While it’s always a good idea to keep the best paint brushes on hand for larger surfaces, a tanning mitt is a great way to reach fiddly corners.

For more advice, read our expert guide on how to paint wood the right way, which includes all the information you need to get started.

Decorating a house can get expensive, so we don’t blame you for wondering whether you can use regular paint in your bathroom to save costs. This can be especially tempting if you have leftover tins from painting the rest of your home – but is it a good idea?

According to experts, the answer is no. While these two paints may look similar to the eye, there is a significant difference in durability, moisture resistance, and mould prevention, so it is important not to use them interchangeably.

To find out why you should always use the best bathroom paint – and what happened to two of Homebuilding's editors when they didn’t – keep reading. We’ve explained everything you need to know below, plus our favourite paints to use instead.

What happens if you use regular paint in a bathroom?

Since bathrooms are prone to steam, humidity, and condensation, it's important to choose the right type of paint to avoid peeling and mould growth, advises Jon Mee, Technical Advisor at Earthborn.

When it comes to choosing your bathroom paint, Jon says it’s essential to think about moisture control, durability and breathability – not just the colour. Choose the wrong one, and you could end up with bubbling, peeling, and mildew forming, which can be time-consuming to rectify.

He explains, "Moisture permeability is a must as it allows water to pass freely through its surface and not trap it. Bathroom paint should always offer some level of breathability as that is crucial for preventing condensation and reducing the likelihood of mould growth."

While bathroom-specific formulas are highly recommended, the limited colour choice can be off-putting. Instead, you could opt for a gloss or satin finish, which is more moisture-resistant than matt and can be wiped down easily.

Caroline Thornborough, Design Director at Thorndown, confirms, “You don’t need to use a paint specifically labelled as a ‘bathroom paint' in bathrooms. Go for a high-quality paint that uses a durable resin at a high volume. This will create a hard-wearing, long-lasting coating that is both breathable for moisture transfer and highly water-repellent."

Shop these moisture-resistant bathroom paints

Homebuilding's assistant editor, Sarah Harley, can attest to this. After deciding that the pale grey paint in her bathroom wasn't dark enough, she headed to her local DIY store to purchase a new tin and opted for a matt multi-purpose emulsion, as she wanted a flat finish.

However, within a matter of weeks, she regretted it. "The condensation and steam from showers left residual marks on the walls that just didn’t shift. They aren’t terrible, but enough to make me realise that in high moisture areas, purpose-made paints really are worth investing in, particularly if your bathroom ventilation isn’t as good as it could be.”

Homebuilding's editor, Beth Murton, had a similar experience when updating the colour scheme in her family bathroom.

"I've never been fan of the sheen in bathroom paint so when I updated the colour scheme in our family bathroom a couple of years ago I went for more of a flat matt finish, despite me knowing deep down it probably wasn't the best option.

"Although it looked lovely once painted, I quickly realised what a mistake it had been. Our bathroom doesn't have amazing ventilation and the steam and condensation in the room just caused the paint to run, leaving unsightly streaks down the walls. Any water splashes also showed up as marks on the wall.

"Within a couple of weeks it was clear it couldn't be left like that, so I had my chosen colour mixed in a low-sheen bathroom paint instead and repainted the entire room. It means the walls are much easier to clean and the paint has remained in place with no streaks. It's certainly a mistake I won't be making again next time we redecorate."

After speaking with the experts, it’s clear that you can't use any old paint in your bathroom. While it might save you money in the short term if you have some leftover, you’ll end up wasting time and effort when you inevitably have to repaint it.

For more decorating advice, read our step-by-step guide on painting a bathroom, which will help you achieve a long-lasting finish. Or, if you’re looking for some creative inspiration, check out these stunning bathroom colour ideas.

Bricks, render, cement, and general masonry usually come in shades of grey and red. However, these natural colours aren’t always what you want, so a coat of masonry paint can transform the interior or exterior of a home and add weather protection.

Alternatively, a fresh coat of paint on previously painted masonry surfaces will bring them back to life. Or maybe you're just thinking of painting exterior window sills as a smart designer statement. Whatever you want or need, we are here to help. Make sure to check out our list of our favourite places to buy masonry paint.

If you’re buying masonry paint, make sure you’ve got the right tools

Masonry paint is specially formulated to provide a protective, weather-resistant layer on render, concrete, brick, tiles, stone, cement, pebbledash, and similar surfaces. These are typically not quite as smooth and straightforward as interior surfaces.

To ensure a good finish, you need to invest in the right tools. The key equipment is a brush and roller. Specialist masonry brushes (like this Harris Trade Angled Masonry Brush from Amazon) are typically wider than the average paintbrush and often have angled handles.

If using a roller, you’ll need a deep-pile roller to help ensure the paint reaches all the nooks and crannies you often find in exterior finishes. And, of course, you will need a roller tray for the paint. Try this Harris Trade Outdoor Polyamide Extra-long pile Decorating set from B&Q, which will have everything you’ll need for painting.

Finally, you’ll need to access hard-to-reach areas and protect surfaces from paint spray. Make sure to invest in large dust sheets (like these Laminated Cotton Dust Sheets for Decorating from Amazon). For hard-to-reach areas, an extension pole (like this Harris Seriously Good Aluminium Extension Pole) or a ladder is a good choice.

Where to buy paint for indoors and outdoors

Here we have selected some of the best UK retailers where you can buy masonry paint for indoor and outdoor projects. Prices are correct at the time of publication, but make sure to check each website for the most up-to-date prices and any special offers.

• Amazon - Trade paint, everyday masonry paint and paint for small indoor projects
• B&Q - A smart collection of one coat, own brand and big name brand masonry and tile paints
• The Paint Shed - High-quality masonry paint from top trade brands and designer exterior paints
• Wickes - Budget-friendly, own-brand paints and big-name trade brands
• Little Greene - Independent British paint manufacturer with a range of traditional and modern finishes

Amazon

B&Q

The Paint Shed

Wickes

Little Greene

If you're buying masonry paint, it's a good idea to make sure the surface you're painting is in good condition. If painting brickwork, consider repointing brickwork (and leave to dry before starting.

If painting a damaged garden wall, make sure to check our guide on garden wall repairs. Finally, read our guide on painting a brick fireplace if decorating indoors.

Skirting boards are an important but often overlooked detail when finishing a room. Choosing the right style and colour can significantly impact the overall appearance of a room. If this means removing the skirting and replacing it, then so be it. However, be prepared for a messy and time-consuming DIY task.

To speed up the installation process, pre-painted skirting board should be on your be on ‘to consider’ list. They come primed and painted, so all you need to do is install them, which is pretty straightforward. But are they worth the extra cost over standard skirting boards? Find out the pros and cons before you decide.

Is pre-painted skirting board worth the extra cost?

This depends on a number of factors, including budget, how much time you have and how good your DIY skills are. However, Paul Kerr, Building specialist at Beatsons points out a few of the pluses, “Pre-painted skirting boards can be worth the extra cost if you want your room to be as professionally finished as possible. These boards are pre-sanded, shaped, coloured and quite easy to place down.”

And, they have another added bonus, continues Kerr, “If you're hiring trades to add them, it cuts down on labour time.” He adds, “It also reduces the need to buy paint, brushes, etc., so it can be almost at the same price point if these tools need to be purchased for the job as well.”

The cost of pre-painted skirting board can be prohibitive, with boards typically costing 20-25% more than bare skirting board. But this can be weighed up against the time you will save. And, Kerr points out, “Other than the higher cost, is the fact that you might not have complete control of the colour tones and customisation as they are made to the manufacturer's specifications, so they may not totally match your personal brief.”

Personally, with years of DIY paint projects under my belt, I would say no to finished skirting boards. My recommendation is to hit the middle ground and invest in pre-primed boards. These allow you to easily cover up any imperfections and eliminate the need to repaint an already finished surface.

Try these pre-painted skirting boards on your next project

Types of pre-painted finishes

Here we look at the common options.

Primed

Pre-primed skirting board will typically have a couple of coats of primer applied with a spray gun. This makes it suitable for adding a couple of your chosen top coats, e.g gloss, satin or eggshell.

Gloss

Gloss finished pre-painted skirting board follows the same pattern as other types. It will typically come with two coats of primer and a single coat of gloss to give a high sheen finish.

Satin

This follows the same process as pre-painted Gloss skirting boards but is finished with a satin paint that provides a subtle mid-sheen finish, offering durability, wipeability, and the ability to hide small imperfections.

Eggshell

This will typically have two coats of primer, a single coat of eggshell, which will leave a low-to-midsheen finish. It's ideal for hiding imperfections, yet still durable and washable.

Unprimed

This type doesn’t fall under the pre-painted moniker, but is still a consideration when buying skirting boards. They are an obvious choice if you want a natural finish that will be protected with varnish. Alternatively, if you want to ensure a long-lasting, durable finish, unprimed is the choice for starting from scratch.

Issues with pre-painted skirting boards

On the surface, pre-painted skirting boards are a great time-saver. Pre-primed skirting boards mean you only need to add a top coat, while fully finished boards are ready to install. But there are a few issues to look out for.

Damaged and dirty

When buying pre-painted skirting boards (especially online), you don’t know what condition they will turn up in. They can turn up dirty and damaged. Even minimal damage, such as dents and chips, can mean you need to repair and repaint.

Paint quality

You don’t get to choose the quality of the paint that is used on prepainted skirting boards. If painting from scratch, you can choose a better quality paint if you desire. Also, pre-painted boards are sprayed, which uses less paint and isn’t typically as durable as a well-prepped and painted skirting board.

Lack of colours

White is the popular choice for skirting boards, and it's not easy to find pre-painted skirting boards in different colours. If white isn’t your preferred choice, you’ll want to avoid pre-painted skirting boards. However, you can repaint any colour you want in the future.

Painting pre-primed skirting

Painting pre-primed skirting boards is a very similar process to painting standard skirting. However, there are a few subtle differences that should be followed.

Pre-primed skirting shouldn’t need to be sanded thanks to its factory finish, but it may need to be cleaned, explains Eric Hargreaves, Owner of Your Choice Builders, “Pre-primed boards rarely need sanding, though a quick wipe or light sand can remove dust before painting.”

Two top coats will typically be needed to get a good, even and consistent finish. When the first top coat is dry, lightly sand with a fine-grade sandpaper; 240 grit is a good choice.

For a finish, you can choose whatever paint you want, but Hargreaves says, “Durable water-based or acrylic satin paints work best, offering quick drying and strong resistance to scuffs.”

Do I need to undercoat pre-primed skirting?

The purpose of the pre-primed skirting board is to seal the surface of the board, ready for painting the skirting boards. This typically means you don’t need an undercoat, explains Hargreaves, “An undercoat on pre-primed skirting boards isn’t required, but it does help if your topcoat is a strong or contrasting colour.”

If you are using the classic white colour for your skirting boards, Hargreaves says, “The primer already provides a smooth base for paint adhesion, so one or two coats of a good finish are usually enough.”

However, if using a darker colour, he says, “Using a light undercoat in this case prevents blotchiness and keeps the colour even, especially with darker shades. It’s a simple extra step that improves the finish without adding much time or cost.”

How to hide cuts/joins

When installing skirting boards, they will need to be cut to size to fit the space. This will expose the unpainted edges, and if cut poorly, will leave a visible gap and ragged edges. So first, you need to make sure that you get a good, clean cut. Using a mitre saw (like this DEWALT DWS774-GB Slide Mitre Saw from Amazon) will give clean, accurate cuts.

However, if you need to cover any small gaps, use a painter's caulk (like this Soudal Decorator Caulk from Amazon). Hargreaves says, “Apply caulk to fill any gaps, smooth it out, and paint over once dry. This leaves a seamless, professional finish that looks clean and consistent throughout.”

If you are using white caulk on white skirting boards, you may not need to paint. Check when the caulk is dry and make a decision.

Skirting boards are everywhere in the home, so it's important to consider matching skirting boards with your favourite painted stairs ideas and any hallway panelling ideas you might have.

Paint is present throughout your home; it covers the walls, ceilings, doors, windows, and skirting boards. It is the classic finish that can quickly transform the colour, mood, and style of a room. Plus, it's a project most DIY enthusiasts can undertake themselves.

However, knowing how to paint a room is just one step towards a perfect paint job. Selecting the right paint is essential for success, and here we have compiled a list of our favourite places to buy paint. You’ll find everything from budget-friendly options to high-end, colour-perfect paints that can elevate any painting project.

Before you buy paint, think about what type of paint and tools you’re going to need

Paint comes in many guises, so you need to decide what you need before you start the purchasing process. Emulsion is the paint of choice for walls and ceilings, but if using it in a high-traffic area like a hallway, you want a paint that is durable and washable. Then you’ll need to think about the finish. Matt is great for walls that aren’t perfect, as it reflects less light.

When painting skirting boards, doors, door frames, architraves, and window sills, you need a hard-wearing, durable and wipeable paint. The finish is typically a choice of satin or gloss, with a satin finish being a popular choice for contemporary homes, offering a lower, more subtle sheen.

And, don’t forget that you’ll need the right tools to ensure a successful paint project. Check your paint brushes and rollers to see if you’ll need to invest in some new ones. Try this Harris Seriously Good Walls & Ceilings Paint Roller Set from Amazon for walls and ceilings. This ProDec 10 litre Plastic Paint Scuttle Bucket and Harris Seriously Good Aluminium Extension Pole (both from Amazon) are handy companions when using rollers.

Where to buy paint for indoors and outdoors

Below is selection of the best UK retailers that sell paint. The prices are correct at the time of publication, be sure to check each website for the most up-to-date prices and any special offers.

• B&Q - A collection of the best emulsion paints for walls and ceilings
• Amazon - Paints for ceilings, kitchen cupboards and garden fences
• Frenchic - Artisan and innovative paints for interior, outdoors and furniture
• Wickes - Budget-friendly emulsions and top-class primers
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When tackling a paint project you not only need the best gloss paint for your woodwork you need the best tools to apply the paint. Check out our guide on the best paint sprayers for a quick fine finish and the best tools to buy on Amazon.

After a recent visit to our local decorating warehouse, on a mission to buy paint to turn my daughter's teenage bedroom ideas into a reality, I was more surprised than ever at the significant price gap between top-of-the range 'designer' brand paints and the retail equivalents.

Not wanting to sound mean, but the idea of spending hundreds of pounds painting the walls of a room that will, in all likelihood, end up getting spritzed with perfume and hair oils, smeared with the odd blob of leftover moisturiser and scraped by shoes, jewelry and accessories during rushed exits out of the door, is not overly appealing.

That said, I know from past experiences that buying cheap-as-chips paint can mean having to applying coat upon coat to achieve a good finish, plus some have faded alarmingly quickly.

To help me resolve the dilemma, I reached out to some of the top experts in the field to find out why designer paints cost so much more. Is it worth spending extra, or should I save my pennies and spend them on other aspects of the project?

Retail, trade and designer paints – what's the difference?

Even as a homes and interiors writer, I'll admit to feeling really daunted when it comes to choosing from the many types of paint on offer – there is just such an enormous range, and understanding exactly what you are looking at is confusing. It helped for me to realise there are three main categories of paint: retail, trade and designer.

'The paint market in the UK is split into three main sections,' picks up professional painter and decorator Mike Gregory who advises for The Decorators Forum UK. 'You have retail paint, which is made from cheap materials and sold on mass to homeowners. You have trade paint, which is slightly more expensive and made from better quality materials but is still competitively priced. Then you have the luxury designer paint products that come with a premium price tag and a big fanfare.

'The difference in retail paint vs trade paint is quite significant and it’s important to know what you’re buying,' continue Mike. 'The way a paint manufacturer designs a product is by first looking at the target audience, working out the cost a tin of paint should be for a retailer to sell a high volume, then produce the best product they can for that budget. Retail paint is made for the DIY market. The paint is of a lower quality, made from cheaper materials and sold to people who don’t really know the difference.

'Trade paint, the type you find at trade counters, is made for the professional decorator. The paint may cost a lot more, however it is made from better quality materials and the product will perform to a higher level.

'Designer paint is far more expensive than trade,' adds Mike. 'Is it worth it? In most cases, yes. As a sweeping statement, the luxury products tend to be good quality.'

For reference, lets compare the three price points for a 2.5 tin of white paint. B&Q's own brand, GoodHome Brilliant White Vinyl Matt Wall & Ceiling Emulsion paint costs £12, Dulux Trade Diamond Pure brilliant White Matt Wall & Ceiling Emulsion paint costs £35 while No. 2005 All White Modern Emulsion from Farrow & Ball costs £63.

Why are designer paints more expensive?

All the experts I spoke to were in agreement that premium paints were worth the extra cost, but I still wanted to know why.

It seemed that the answer lay in the quality of the ingredients used and how much easier they make painting a room – not just the fancy packaging and clever colour names.

"Premium interior paints are much more likely to be formulated with higher quality ingredients versus their cheaper counterparts, resulting in better coverage, richer depth of colour, and enhanced durability," explains Ian Masonbury, brand director at Armourcoat. "The higher cost helps ensure a reliable, superior finish that requires fewer coats to achieve full coverage, and can last for years without the need to regularly repaint."

Is expensive paint worth it?

What I really wanted to know was whether or not I would feel that the extra money I spent on the designer paint was, ultimately, worth it, both while I was physically painting a wall as well as a few months (or hopefully years) down the line.

"Premium paints typically contain a much higher pigment concentration and finer quality binders, which means the colour appears richer, more consistent, and more resistant to fading over time," explains interior designer Laura Hammett, founder of award winning interior architect and design studio Laura Hammett Living. "They also tend to have better coverage, so fewer coats are needed to achieve a flawless result."

According to Helen Shaw from Benjamin Moore, who offer both trade and premium paints, there are other benefits too, including a greater breadth of colour choice.

"Premium paints are ideal for consumers and interior designers, with Benjamin Moore’s range offering over 3,500 colours to choose from," she says. "Exclusive technologies such as our ‘Colour Lock’ deliver rich hues that resist fading over time. These paints deliver a higher level of premium pigment and binder, resulting in a better depth of colour. They have been designed to deliver superior flow and levelling, so brush and roller marks virtually disappear, leaving a flawless finish."

Is trade paint as good as designer?

Trade paint sits in the middle of the price range, between premium and retail, offering longevity and better application than retail.

"Some of the qualities that lack in retail paint vs trade paint are opacity, ease of use, discolouration over time, and durability," explains Mike Gregory. "Not just that, but trade paint will normally go further."

But how do they compare to premium paints and are they a better option for, say, children's bedroom design where durability might be more important than colour depth?

"We know most luxury designer brands are better quality than standard trade products, but don’t discount trade just yet," says Mike Gregory. "A few years ago, trade stepped up to the plate and started producing premium versions of their paint so they could compete with the luxury brands. Dulux have Heritage, Crown have Crafted, and Johnstone’s have Perfect Matt.

"Here we have three ranges from the three big trade brands in the UK. All premium quality, but without the fanfare that comes with the luxury designer brands," continues Mike. "When it comes to bang for your buck, these paints are a better option than the designer brands."

"Trade paints are designed for professional decorators who can be working in residential or commercial spaces," explains Helen Shaw. "They are specially formulated to deliver a quick drying, easy to spread, high opacity finish and can be applied efficiently over large surfaces, making them the perfect choice when a job is time critical. As they are often used in high traffic, commercial environments, trade formulas are designed to deliver an exceptionally high level of durability. For instance, our commercial lines, SCUFF-X and Ultra Spec 500, are perfect for anyone needing a tough, scuff resistant finish and will withstand repeated cleaning and washing."

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What did I end up choosing?

For reference, my daughter was keen on painting the bedroom walls a warm, vintage white. For the chimney breast she wanted a soft black, and we plan on adding some grid-style wall panelling too. After some back and forthing with various sample pots we eventually settled on the shades we liked.

We opted for Railings by Farrow & Ball, a beautiful soft black with just the tiniest hint of blue for the chimneybreast. For the warm white I lost count of the number of tester pots we got through, but eventually we fell in love with Marbles by Earthborn for the main walls, a really warm, vintage-inspired white. Earthborn paints are clay-based and give a beautiful, ultra matt, almost powdery finish.

I decided to opt for the real deal for the chimney breast, paying £33 for a 750ml tin of the Dead Flat finish. In a bid to save a little, we plumped for a trade paint, Albany Durable Matt, colour matched to the Earthborn shade, saving £20 in the process. Which, on reflection isn't a huge amount.

How did the premium and trade compare?

I wish I could tell you that the trade and the premium paint performed just as well, that there was no difference whatsoever – but I can't.

While the colour matching was pretty much spot on, the ease of application, coverage and finish of the trade paint, while good, wasn't up there with the premium. After a single coat of the Farrow & Ball paint I could have probably stopped, while I ended up needing three of the trade, although this was partly due to the need to paint over dark colours to disguise the numerous painted samples on these walls.

The way the premium paint reacts to the light is somehow superior too. The finish is way more matt in a way that is hard to describe – it just looks, well, premium.

"Premium paints offer wall colour with tangible depth, texture, and longevity, ensuring a superior surface finish that’s hard to obtain with cheaper alternatives," agrees Ian Masonbury, a sentiment echoed by Laura Hammett.

"Premium paints create a smoother, more refined surface with minimal visible brush or roller marks, which can completely elevate the look and feel of a room," she explains. "They’re also more durable and washable, making them ideal for busy homes where walls need to stand up to everyday wear without compromising on appearance."

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The overall conclusion

While, in this instance, I didn't use a retail paint, I have tried to save by using the lowest cost white paint I could find in the past – and paid the price. Had I looked into the best kitchen paint, I wouldn't constantly be repainting patches around the space or trying to avoid looking at the patchy ceilings.

While I am happy with the finish of the trade paint, when it came to the ease of application, coverage and depth of colour, as well as texture, it definitely didn't stand up to the premium.

"Ultimately, opt for premium paints where unparalleled colour and finish are the priority," advises Helen Shaw. "Choose trade paints for time-sensitive projects and high-traffic areas where you require maximum durability and efficiency"

"Although budget paints offer immediate cost savings at the point of purchase, they are often formulated using inferior quality ingredients, including reduced pigment load,' adds Ian Masonbury. 'This means they usually require several coats for full coverage and deliver a substandard final finish that wears and scuffs more easily, often fading in sunlight. The requirement to repaint is much more likely when using a cheaper budget paint."

FAQs

Which is the most eco-friendly paint?

As I was painting my daughter's bedroom, I was keen that the paint I was using wasn't full of nasties. It isn't only premium paints these days that are using low-VOC formulations, although you do want to check what your chosen paint contains and when it comes to oil vs water-based paints, water is definitely the better choice.

"Many premium brands now focus on natural or low-VOC formulations that improve indoor air quality and minimise wider environmental impact," explains Ian Masonbury. "Depending on the specific formulation, natural mineral paints present much lower levels of embodied carbon, while true limewash is scientifically proven to absorb CO₂ as its cures – a benefit only realised when the formulation and application are done correctly. When chosen carefully, using a higher-quality paint for the home can support sustainable goals, delivering long-term performance in tandem with luxury aesthetics."

Ask any colour expert and they'll agree that there's nothing more soothing on the eye than soft shades of green. And, while green works well in most rooms across the home, choosing sage green kitchen cabinets has already been a popular choice in 2025 according to kitchen designers.

Throw into the mix the fact that Valspar recently announced Eucalyptus Green as their colour of the year 2026, and we're predicting the trend for biophilic shades in kitchen ideas is only going to grow. But, do the experts agree and if so, how can you best use green to make sure it doesn't date or look dull?

Find out more in our guide to why sage green kitchen cabinets could be the kitchen colour that doesn't drain you, or your budget, for years to come.

Sage green vs other shades of green

So what makes sage green kitchen cabinets a good choice compared to painted kitchen cabinet ideas in other colours?

“Sage green is a very good choice for kitchen cabinetry because it has a soft, understated quality that feels welcoming, while still being sophisticated enough to suit both traditional and more contemporary homes," says Richard Davenport, managing director at Davonport. "Unlike bolder colours, it doesn’t dominate the space, but instead brings a gentle sense of calm that works well in the heart of the home.

"Because sage has an underlying silver-grey tone, it behaves almost like a neutral," he adds. "That means it’s less likely to feel dated compared with stronger, more saturated greens."

But, how best can you use it in a kitchen and should it only feature on your kitchen cabinets or are there other places it can work as well?

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How to use sage green in the kitchen

The main appeal of sage green to kitchen designers and homeowners can perhaps be best described if we think of it as a shade of green that has chameleon-like qualities.

"Sage green is a versatile shade; earthy and elegant, and it gives a classic twist to traditional neutrals, while adding depth and balance," says Al Bruce, founder of Olive & Barr. "It’s a colour we associate with the outdoors and can breathe life into the heart of the home. Sage has a timeless appeal that transcends trends."

That said, it's neutral like appeal doesn't make it boring, bland or dated and there are ways of making it have impact.

"Create a statement with sage green by using it liberally throughout the cabinetry," suggest Al. "You can continue this colour up into a painted shiplap splashback and keeping the walls free of units allows the green to take centre stage without overpowering the space. For added impact, keep with the same shade on the kitchen island," he adds.

And, although it's considered a neutral shade in itself, that doesn't mean it needs too much of a boost to make a difference. "We’ve found that sage works particularly well when paired with natural materials such as oak or stone, which further enhances its longevity," says Richard Davonport.

But, if you are keen to inject some other colours into the mix, what are your options?

Personally, I'm a huge fan of pale pink and sage green. It's a combination that's fresh, inviting and yet still feels warm when the seasons change. Throw in some brighter pink and darker green accessories and it's like enveloping yourself in a cosy striped jumper in autumn. But, in much the same way that pink bathroom ideas aren't for everyone, pink kitchens might not suit everyone either, so are there other shades that can work just as well?

"In terms of pairing, sage green also complements a wide spectrum of colours, from warm taupes and creams through to cooler greys, soft yellows and earthy browns," suggests Richard.

"Paint the walls a soft neutral tone that will lift the space, making the ceilings appear much taller, while the green base cabinetry will harmoniously balance the scheme," is Al's advice.

And, it's the perfect colour pop if you want to find a way to find a clean and fresh partner to white.

"A popular way to achieve a clean, inviting aesthetic is by pairing sage green cabinets with white countertops or backsplashes," says Al. "This timeless combination creates a fresh, open look where both colours complement each other rather than compete.

"For added sophistication, you can introduce woods such as oak or ash, which add depth, transforming the kitchen into a welcoming gathering place," he adds. "This combination also introduces a playful contrast that keeps the overall design dynamic and visually engaging. Complement this natural colour palette with houseplants or herb gardens, amplifying the calming effect and inviting a sense of tranquillity."

The benefit of being able to pair sage green kitchen cabinets with a number of colours? Less need for expensive new kitchen costs on a regular basis, explains Richard.

"Combinations allow you to refresh the look over time without changing the cabinetry itself. The key to ensuring a sage kitchen remains timeless lies in the cabinetry style. A classic shaker kitchen in sage, for example, will never fall out of favour, because it draws on a lineage of craft and proportion that transcends short-lived trends."

Sage green kitchen ideas

Keen to see how sage green could suit your new kitchen extension ideas or self build? Here's some of our favourite sage green inspired kitchen ideas, along with options for using the shade somewhere other than kitchen cabinets.

So is sage green the only green kitchen idea that homeowners are requesting, or is green a kitchen trend that shows no signs of abating?

"Sage has certainly been one of the most popular greens in recent years, though we are also seeing requests for deeper, moodier shades such as olive and forest green, particularly in kitchens where clients want a bolder statement," says Richard Davonport.

"That said, sage sits beautifully alongside traditional joinery, but can equally be given a more modern edge when paired with industrial-influenced details, such as stainless-steel appliances or aged bronze hardware. Its adaptability is what makes it such a reliable and enduring choice,” he confirms.

If, like me, you're now seriously considering a kitchen re-vamp, take a look at our guides to kitchen respray costs and replacement kitchen unit doors to find out how much you need to budget for welcoming sage green kitchen cabinets into your home.

By now, you’re probably familiar with the term colour drenching – covering everything from walls to ceilings (and even radiators and furniture) in the same, usually dark and moody, shade. But just as we've gotten to grips with one paint trend, another has come along in the form of colour capping.

Instead of immersing a room in a single solid tone, colour capping builds intensity as it rises – deepening as it moves up the wall, and reaching its richest shade across the ceiling. Done well, it can make a room feel feel larger and loftier, cohesive and classy. Done badly… someone might think you ran out of paint and decided to improvise.

To help you avoid embarrassment, we've asked the experts how to pull off the method of colour capping without mess or stress, and to understand where this look truly shines (think hallways, stairwells, lofty living rooms). We’ll also flag where to tread carefully, and address whether you really need to paint your skirting boards to perfect the effect.

What is colour capping?

"Colour capping is a trend I am 100% on board with, as it focusses on the part of a room that I think has been overlooked for too long: the ceiling," says Marianne Shillingford, creative director and colour expert at Dulux. "This decorating technique is a variant on the ever-popular colour drenching trend – ‘colour capping’ makes it slightly more interesting by using different tones of the same colour, with the deepest tone on the ceiling, giving it a ‘capped’ effect."

"It's a clever way to achieve a high-end look with just a few tins of paint," explains Helen Shaw, Director of Marketing (International), Benjamin Moore. "It involves enveloping a space in a tonal wash that gradually deepens the further up it goes, incorporating the ceiling into the design." In the main, the idea is to paint your ceiling in the deepest, darkest shade, then your cornicing and/or the wall above the dado rail in your chosen mid tone, before covering the middle and lower parts of the walls in your lightest shade.

"By bringing the often-overlooked ‘fifth wall’ into the scheme, it creates a seamless flow and a greater sense of space," says Michael Rolland, managing director at The Paint Shed. "I think, especially as more people live in smaller new-build homes, this is a brilliant way to add personality to what might be a 'boxy' space and create the illusion of openness."

How can colour capping enhance a room?

Helen Shaw thinks colour capping is a smart way to make your room look that bit more personalised. "It adds depth and nuance to an otherwise simple palette and is also a great way to build colour confidence.

"By using paint in varying tones from the same colour family, you can completely transform the mood and proportion of a room," she says. "This layered approach draws the eye upward and creates a sense of intention and polish."

“In older properties, it can highlight architectural features such as cornices and picture rails whereas in newer or more minimalist spaces, it adds dimension, making flat surfaces feel more dynamic and visually interesting."

“Colour capping is a successful decorating style for several reasons," says Michael Rolland. "Firstly, opting for the same tonal gradient from wall to ceiling works to create a cohesive and sleek look in the home. Secondly, using this style also helps to make your home feel more spacious, whilst at the same time adding depth and creating a sense of relaxation.”

What rooms are particularly suited to colour capping?

“Colour capping is generally safe for a multitude of areas in the home, from living rooms to kitchens and hallways," says Michael Rolland, "I would recommend trying this trend in kitchens, particularly with green or blue shades, and I love the idea of extending these colours onto cabinets to tie everything together. It can really bring a small space to life.”

"Colour capping works beautifully in living rooms and bedrooms because it enhances the sense of intimacy and comfort these spaces demand," adds Helen Shaw. "By carrying colour onto the ceiling in a slightly deeper tone, the room feels cocooned and inviting, perfect for relaxation."

When is colour capping less successful?

"You may find that the colour capping trend doesn’t work practically in really small spaces such as utility rooms, or rooms that are already very dark," says Michael Rolland. "Darker colours can make an already dim room appear lifeless and more closed-in, which certainly isn’t the vibe you want to achieve with this trend.”

Marianne Shillingford agrees: "Even though colour capping can work for rooms you want to visually enlarge, this may be tricky to achieve in spaces that don’t receive much natural light. Closing off an already-dark room with a dark ceiling may make it feel even more enclosed."

"As well as this, any rooms that already feel quite busy with different textures or architectural features like intricate doorways or architraves may not be the best fit for colour capping. Introducing different hues here, even if they are tonal and complementary, could make the space feel a bit overwhelming," she tells us.

What are the best colour combinations for colour capping?

“I have seen a lot of great shades be used in colour capping, but my favourite will always be green or blue tones," says Michael Rolland. "Both of these are classed as ‘receding colours’, which create the illusion of more space and depth within the home – perfect for anyone wanting to embark on this trend."

"To colour cap successfully, start with a single colour family - and combine two or three different shades. I would suggest that those keen to explore green consider Farrow & Ball’s Green Ground, with Green Blue and Yeabridge Green. Those seeking blue shades might find that Benjamin Moore Blue Dusk works well with Blue Spruce and Van Deusen Blue."

Marianne Shillingford suggests Dulux's luxurious Heritage range on the basis that "the colour capping trend is all about making the rooms of your home feel that little bit more palatial".

"What’s even more helpful, is each colour’s page on the Dulux Heritage website offers tonal suggestions to help you plan a perfectly cohesive room," she adds. "For example, the rich purple Wild Blackberry is the perfect punctuation point for walls painted in a purple on the softer side, like Violet Night – their combined inky plushness making for a perfect bedroom combination to curl up amongst."

"Alternatively, Mallard Green gives the feeling of resting under a forest canopy when used on the ceiling, and is complemented gorgeously by Green Oxide on the walls. As green is a colour known to aid concentration, this pairing works brilliantly in home offices."

How to paint using the colour capping technique

1. Prep your space

"As with any paint job, preparing your room is key – but precision is particularly important this time around, as more than one colour is involved," says Marianne Shillingford. "Make sure the room is as clear as possible and all surfaces you don’t want painted are protected."

2. Get the right equipment

"If you are looking for the clean-line aesthetic, most commonly used with colour capping, then masking tape is the perfect way to ensure a crisp edge," says Michael Rolland. "Should you wish to adopt a softer transition in your interiors, try feathering the edges with a dry brush or sponge while the top colour is still slightly wet, so the two shades merge together."

"Once you have selected your shades, grab some masking tape and a spirit level or laser and mark where your two or three sections of colour will start and finish," he adds. "Ensure to press down firmly on the tape to ensure you have a tight seal to begin painting."

3. Start with the ceiling

“To prevent unnecessary mess and the hassle of having to repaint, always paint from the ceiling downwards. So, in the instance of colour capping, this would begin with your darkest shade," advises Michael Rolland. "That way, should you make a mess, it is much easier to rectify than if you were to have painted your entire room first."

Marianne Shillingford agrees: "An angled ‘cutting in brush’ will be your best friend here, as its designed to create a precise line where the ceiling meets the walls."

4. Take care when moving to your next shade

“You always want to give your different shades enough time to dry before layering," says Michael Rolland. "Rushing your painting is the quickest way you will acquire smudges and uneven coverage, so the craft is really about being patient with the process. That said, to ensure you get the cleanest edges, always aim to remove the tape while your paint is still a touch tacky."

Marianne Shillingford has another smart trick when using multiple shades. "If you want the ceiling colour to come a little way down on to the walls as a band of colour, measure and mark with chalk and apply decorators masking tape along the line where the ceiling colour will meet the wall colour. Seal the edge of the tape that you are painting up to with a coat of the background colour (for example, if the ceiling colour is green, use a lick of the same green to seal the edge). This will ensure a perfect professional ‘how on earth did you do that?’ crisp line between the colours."

Just remember, colour capping is all about having fun with your walls and breaking away from the ordinary. Whether you go bold and dramatic or soft and subtle, it’s a trend that instantly adds personality to a room. So why not grab a paintbrush and see where a little colour play takes you? We dare you...

FAQ

Will I need to paint my skirting boards?

While some interior designers will insist on embracing the trend through to your woodwork, both Marianne Shillingford and Michael Rolland believe fans of white skirting and door frames needn't panic.

“If you happen to be a fan of white woodwork, that is absolutely fine, as it can help to sharpen the look," says Michael Rolland. "However, you want to ensure this is a fresh white shade and not an off-white, as that can make your shade choices appear more dull."

"If you like to colour cap with whites and neutrals or simply prefer white woodwork, definitely check out the Dulux Heritage whites tool ," suggests Marianne. "This helps you choose the perfect white shade for the type of light and aspect of your room."

However, Helen Shaw at Benjamin Moore prefers to embrace coloured woodwork. "Colour capping is all about cohesion rather than contrast so painting skirting boards in the same colour as the walls is a great way to maintain this feeling right down to the floors. Avoiding a harsh contrast here also ensures the eye is draw up to the main colour capping moment on the ceiling."

To help you decide which base colour you'll use for colour capping, find inspiration and advice in our guide to the best colour for a living room, and take a look at these kitchen wall colours, as recommended by experts.

First off the starting blocks this year in the annual paint trend predictions is Dulux, who have gone with not one, but three shades of blue. All very different, but equally all likely to cause a stir when it comes to using them on your walls.

Despite being the world's most popular colour, blue is often criticised for being a cold colour, and one that's lacking in warmth. Personally, having used blue in many different rooms from bedrooms, through to my current blue and pink open plan kitchen living room, I tend to disagree.

So, if like me, blue is one of your favourite shades, but you're not sure how to get it right, here's how to use the Dulux Colours of the Year 2026 to create a home that's not just on trend, but a delight to look at too.

What are the Dulux Colours of the Year 2026?

There are three shades of blue in this year's Dulux Colours of the Year 2026, all of which have a different feel:

• Mellow Flow – described as an airy light blue
• Free Groove – a more vibrant shade of indigo
• Slow Swing – a dark, inky sophisticated shade of blue

Although I personally think all three don't sit that well together if you want to use them in one room, Mellow Flow, the lighter of the trio certainly complements the other two shades and could be used along with a neutral, or even contrasting colour.

This year's selection is certainly a vast difference to Dulux's Colour of the Year 2025, which was True Joy, a bright vibrant yellow. However, shades of blue are arguably more useable and adaptable across more areas of your home and here's how.

How to use the Dulux Colours of the Year 2026

Use Mellow Flow in bedrooms

When choosing how and where to use the Dulux Colours of the Year 2026, start by thinking about the overall look you are hoping to achieve.

If you lean more towards a light and airy interior, creating a colour palette using Mellow Flow, shades of denim, light oak and off white would be a great combination for an older children's bedroom idea or even for your guest bedroom ideas.

Try a Free Groove inspired kitchen diner

For something more punchy, Free Groove paired with zingy lime green or even yellow will bring even the darkest of rooms to life, and pack a punch where other colours may fail.

Try it for a bright and colourful kitchen diner idea, using blue as your cabinet colour then accessorising with green or yellow kitchen decor ideas, choosing them perhaps as the colours for your dining chairs and table.

Colour drench your snug with Slow Swing

Or, if you prefer a richer colour scheme, why not adopt the colour drenching paint technique and coat your walls, ceilings and woodwork in Slow Swing, and then pair it with with rich burgundy and vibrant metals for warm and cosy snug ideas.

Or, you could even use it in hallways on your wall panelling ideas for a grand and elegant entrance.

Blue bathrooms are a great option too

If you are worried blue can be too cool in other rooms, one of the best places to use it in your home is in your bathroom ideas. But, the key to making blue work in bathrooms? Don't be tempted to create a pastiche to the seaside.

Instead, pair Mellow Flow painted walls with a feature wall of these Wild Botanicals Porcelain Blue tile by Clarissa Hulse from Hyperion Tiles, add crisp white sanitaryware and matt gold taps and accessories for a clean but sophisticated look.

Or, use Slow Swing as your inspiration and choose dark inky blue bathroom furniture, large format marble tiles such as these Onyx Blue in Polished and Matt Tiles from Hyperion Tiles, and finish the look with black taps and hardware.

For those of you who prefer something brighter of a morning? The brighter shade of Free Grove combined with Mellow Flow, white tiles and lighter toned woods won't fail to give you a Scandi inspired dopamine wake up call each and every day.

Our top picks

If I had to pick my favourite of the Dulux Colours of the Year 2026, I'd definitely opt for Slow Swing and Mellow Flow. I think the shades lend themselves to other colours more easily, making them more suited to lots of different interior ideas.

And, I'm not alone in my preferences, as Homebuilding & Renovating's editor, Beth Murton is also a fan of Slow Swing.

"I’m naturally drawn to colours that remind me of the sea and expanses of water, so blue is a colour I’ve used throughout my own home," says Beth. "With its myriad shades and tones, blue is such a versatile colour, working equally well as a calm backdrop in a restful bedroom as it does when used in a dark and cosy living room.

"My favourite of the three blue shades in Dulux’s Colours of 2026 is Slow Swing, as I naturally gravitate towards this shade’s dramatic, inky tones that remind me of the sea on a dark and blustery day – often my favourite time to be walking on the beach! If painting your walls in such a bold colour feels a step too far, don’t forget you could introduce it more subtly with a sofa or accent chair, a rug or a few well-chosen accessories."

For more inspiration on using blue in your home renovation plans, take a look at these navy kitchen ideas and if you're keen to add in some different shades, find out what the experts recommend for mixing and matching colours in a kitchen.

Peeling paint is unwanted and an eyesore. It's also a sign that there’s been an issue in the preparation or application. Freshly applied paint can look good even if the preparation is below par. But it won’t be long before it starts to show just how poor the paint job is. It will easily chip or scratch, and of course, peel.

To stop paint peeling, you need to make sure that you make all the right moves before painting a room, doors or even skirting boards. Get everything right before you even start applying paint, and you won’t have to put up with poor and peeling paint. Just a paint job to be proud of that will stay looking good for longer.

Causes of paint peeling

To stop paint peeling, you need to understand the underlying causes to help prevent it from happening in the first place. Typically, this is something to do with the surface or the application of the paint.

1. Poor preparation

Getting your preparation right for any DIY project is crucial for success, and a paint job is no different, shares Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb. “Poor preparation is a common cause of peeling paint; when the surface underneath the paint isn’t prepared properly, the paint may not adhere correctly.”

2. Incorrect application

You might think it's easy to paint a surface, and all will be well. But the poor application can be a key component of peeling paint. Irving points out, “When paint is applied in thick layers, it can affect its ability to adhere to the surface properly, causing it to peel off.”

3. Too much moisture

Painting directly onto a surface that holds moisture is a poor choice, but unfortunately, the moisture problem may not always be obvious. Irving says, “An underlying problem, like rising damp whereby moisture rises up through the walls due to a poor damp proof course, can be an issue.”

A more obvious problem may be a room where there’s high humidity, like a bathroom or kitchen. Irving says, “These have moisture from showering or cooking and a lack of ventilation.”

Try these tools to help stop paint peeling

3 ways to stop paint peeling

Understanding the issues that can cause paint to peel is essential for knowing how to prevent it on your next painting job.

1. Make sure the surface is ready to be painted

It cannot be stressed enough how important preparation is, as Jack Reading, paint expert from Emperor Paint shares, “Good painting always starts with good prep. If you skip cleaning or priming, the paint just won’t stick properly to the surface you are painting. By not prepping the surface, you may be setting yourself up for disappointment.”

Depending on the surface, you will need to sand, clean or both. If painting new plaster, you will need to apply a mist coat first. If working with a previously emulsioned wall, you will need to clean with sugar soap, wash down and lightly sand.

2. Always think, do I need a primer?

The current state of a surface can have a significant bearing on the adhesion of the paint, so after cleaning and sanding, what else might you need? Reading explains, “If you’re painting a surface that hasn’t been painted before, it often requires a primer to allow the paint to stick to the surface.”

He adds, “A common mistake many homeowners make is choosing a primer that isn’t compatible with the type of paint they plan to use. Always check that the primer and paint you are using are designed to be used together.”

You can use a general-purpose primer like Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer, which is OK for most surfaces. Another option is Crown Trade PX4 All Purpose Primer (available from B&Q). But you might want to choose a more specific primer for different surfaces. Zinsser Cover Stain (also available from B&Q) is suitable for exterior wood surfaces, while Zinsser Gardz is good for previously wallpapered walls.

3. Use the correct paint for the substrate

It may seem obvious, but you must choose the right paint for the surface that you are working on, as Reading explains, “Different materials need different types of paint.” He adds, “Using the wrong product, like applying interior emulsion to an exterior wall, will quickly lead to peeling paint.”

This advice is particularly pertinent if working with bare wood or plaster. You will first need to ensure that you have prepped the area and applied the appropriate primer. To finish, you will need to add a suitable paint. If painting wood, use an undercoat followed by a suitable paint, such as this Dulux Trade Quick Dry Satinwood Paint from Amazon. You can add emulsion to wood, but it will quickly deteriorate and even start peeling as it isn’t as hard-wearing as a wood paint.

How to get rid of peeling paint

Prevention is better than repair, but if you do have small patches of peeling paint it is sometimes better to repair than to start over. It saves you time and money and will be hard to spot if done well.

Start by removing any peeling paint with a scraper, and then sand the area and blend the edges with fine sandpaper. Apply a primer and finish with an appropriate paint. If you have excessive peeling, it is better to start afresh. Remove all paint, repair, prep and add new paint.

FAQs

Can you use oil and water-based paints together?

Yes, you can, although using a water-based paint on top of a water-based undercoat or primer is typically a better choice. There is less prep, and the paint dries quicker than oil-based paints.

Ideally, try to use the same brand and type, so if choosing Dulux Trade for undercoat, use Dulux Trade for the top coat. It's not critical that you do, but it helps. They are formulated to work together, which often helps adhesion and durability.

Is there anything I can put on top of paint to stop it peeling?

A correctly chosen paint, i.e. wood paint for wood, that is applied correctly to a well-prepared and dry surface, should not peel. The makeup of the paint will be enough to provide good adhesion and a durable finish.

Often, it's what’s under the top layers of paint that causes an issue. If you are looking to apply paint over a previously painted surface, you can use Zinsser Peel Stop to help improve adhesion. This is a flexible sealer that binds to old paint to help fill gaps and cracks and provide a sound surface to paint.

Are one-coat paints prone to peeling?

One-coat paints are OK for a quick cover-up, but not much else. They are prone to peeling, especially if the surface they are applied to hasn’t been adequately prepared. This is typically more applicable to one coat paints on woodwork, i.e., gloss on gloss.

Typically, one coat of paint is not enough to give an even finish. It can look patchy because it doesn't cover as well. To ensure an even deeper-looking finish, at least two coats of paint are needed.

No one wants peeling paint on any projects, so get it right and check out our 11 loft bedroom decorating ideas, utility room ideas, and eco paints guides and get an excellent finish on your next project.

Picture this scene: it’s the end of a long day painting and you’re desperate to get the room finished. You’ve already cracked the windows open but the paint still feels tacky to the touch – so you reach for a dehumidifier to help speed things along. Sounds like a clever fix, right? Well, no. Not quite.

While it’s tempting to use a dehumidifier to make paint dry faster, experts warn that this shortcut could do more harm than good, and not just to your walls. From cracked paint finishes to uneven drying, this seemingly harmless shortcut can actually derail your decorating efforts. In some cases, it might even cause unnecessary strain on your appliance.

Below, we explain why a dehumidifier isn’t the best choice for drying paint, and share the simple steps that will get you better results.

Why you shouldn't use a dehumidifier to make paint dry

“While it may be tempting to think a dehumidifier can speed up paint drying times, this DIY trick can cause more harm than good,” cautions Katie Lilywhite, air treatment expert at AO.com. “Paint needs a little humidity to settle properly, and if you pull too much moisture from the air, this can lead to your paint peeling or cracking ahead of time.”

Chris Michaels, director at Meaco,agrees, explaining: “Using a dehumidifier to dry paint too early can cause the surface to dry faster than the layers underneath, leading to an uneven finish or cracks.”

What’s more, when you place a dehumidifier in a freshly painted room, it ends up working far harder than it should. All the lingering moisture from the wet paint can throw things off balance and force the machine to run constantly without much payoff. Over time, this kind of strain can wear out the internal mechanisms faster than you'd expect.

So, rather than speeding things up, you could actually be setting yourself up for an uneven paint finish, or a decorating job you’ll need to redo much sooner than planned.

What should you do instead?

So, if a dehumidifier isn’t the answer, what is the best way to help paint dry properly, especially in a space that’s cold, damp, or poorly ventilated? The simplest solutions are often the most effective. Instead of trying to force the process, focus on creating steady, natural ventilation and airflow. That means opening windows where possible, propping open internal doors, and using a fan to keep air moving in the room. Just avoid cranking up the heat, which can be just as damaging as over-drying the air.

“Paint needs to dry at a steady rate," explains Chris Michael. "So for the best results, follow the manufacturer’s drying times and ventilate the room with natural airflow or an air circulator fan.”

"A dehumidifier is great for laundry and damp control, but not for speeding up paint drying," Chris adds. The key is patience and trusting the product to do its job. Manufacturers test different types of paint to dry in typical conditions, so sticking to their guidance will give you the best finish. Trying to rush the process can result in exactly the issues you want to avoid, from visible brush strokes to paint bubbling.

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Fed up of gloss paintbrushes feeling stiff and sticky? Follow this simple guide to cleaning paint brushes to keep your painting tools in top condition.

If your old wardrobe doors need updating, painting them is a quick and cost-effective way to add a smart, stylish touch to a room. Choose a colour that complements the rest of the room, or go all out and redecorate the entire space so everything looks fresh, clean, and new.

To ensure your newly painted walls, wardrobe doors, and woodwork stay looking good for longer, you need the right paint, tools, and preparation. Here, you’ll find expert recommendations on paint and tools, proper preparation and application techniques, and some smart design ideas to enhance the overall finish.

Pick a paint to paint a wardrobe door

Before you can paint a wardrobe door, ensure you have the right paint to achieve the best finish. This can differ depending on the current finish of the wardrobe door. Kevin Keen, Owner of Keen's Buildings shares, “For a surface that stands up to everyday use and wipes clean with ease, reach for eggshell or satin. On wood, MDF, or laminate, V33 Renovation Furniture Paint (available from B&Q) often bonds straight on, no primer needed in some cases.” Find out more about eggshell paint in our What is eggshell paint guide.

If you are not using a primer, you will need to apply at least two coats. Keen continues, “However, if you’re tackling a glossy or laminate finish, begin with a bonding primer such as Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3, then apply furniture or multi-surface paint over the top.” Keen adds, “Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 (available from B&Q) remains my go-to primer; it sticks to almost anything and blocks stains.”

Darren Morley, MD of The Mirror Man suggests, “Look for paints that are formulated for wood and MDF and give a smooth, wipeable finish. Dulux Quick Dry Satinwood (available from Amazon) or Frenchic Al Fresco (also available from Amazon) are good options. Both are water-based, low-odour and hardwearing.”

The tools you’ll need to paint a wardrobe door

To paint a wardrobe door, ensure you have the right tools to do a good job. This will include brushes, rollers, the right sandpaper grades, cleaner and more, as Keen reveals, “Have a 2- to 2.5-inch angled brush (like this Purdy XL Glide Nylon/Polyester Brush from Amazon) for edges and panels.” He adds, “Plus you’ll need a 4-inch high-density foam roller (like this Harris Ultimate Woodwork Mini Gloss Roller Set from Amazon) for flat sections; it delivers a smooth, even coat without brush marks.”

Beyond the application tools, you will need preparation tools, Keen says. “Keep sandpaper on hand: 120 to 220 grit according to the surface, but make sure to clean first with sugar soap or a degreaser.” He adds, “A couple of microfibre cloths, painter’s tape if hinges stay on, and basic PPE (mask and goggles) are essential.”

Morley says, “Think about a sanding block or electric sander (like this DEWALT Electric Sander from Amazon). If spraying, a paint sprayer designed for furniture will give the most even finish, but it’s not essential.”

And don’t forget you’ll need a screwdriver to remove the door and handles, and a flat surface or saw horses, to paint on.

Try these tools to help paint wardrobe doors

Steps to paint wardrobe doors

To start the painting process, it is recommended to remove the doors from the wardrobe and paint them individually. Keen says, “Lay them flat on a solid surface. Wash everything with sugar soap to strip away grease and grime,” he adds, “If you sand dirt into the surface, it’ll haunt you later.”

1. Clean and sand

Once a door has been cleaned and dried, sanding the wood or laminate surface is the next step. Keen says, “Use 220 grit for laminate just to scuff, 150–220 grit for MDF, and 120–180 grit for solid wood.” Once the surface has been sanded, Keen says, “Vacuum or wipe off dust.”

To finish, use a damp microfibre cloth (like these Vileda Microfibre Cloths from Amazon) to wipe down the surface, then let it dry for five to ten minutes.

2. Lay wardrobe doors flat

There are a few options if you have removed the doors, which is recommended to get the best finish. Morley says, “Lay them flat on a pair of saw horses or a dust sheet on the floor.” However, ensure it's raised off the dust sheet by at least 50mm so you can paint the edges. Ideally a wooden block near each corner is a good choice, and make sure the door is steady.

He adds, “Take off handles and hinges. Painting over hinges can cause them to seize or flake later.”

3. Prime the surface

If painting glossy or laminate surfaces, Keen says, “Add a bonding primer such as Zinsser 1-2-3. For wood, apply a wood primer or undercoat. When that’s dry, give a quick light sand, then begin painting.” Don’t forget to wipe the surface with a damp cloth after sanding to ensure that dust doesn’t spoil the next coat of paint.

4. Paint the door

To start, paint the edges and any recesses and panels. Keen says, “Start with an angled brush on edges and detail work.” You’ll need to get the technique right to ensure a good finish: “Work slowly, feathering paint to avoid heavy lines or drips.”

Keen continues, “On recessed or raised panels, brush into corners and grooves first, then roll the flat sections. This method prevents pooling in crevices and ensures even coverage."

Finally, use the roller to finish the remaining flat sections, starting at one end and working to the other. Leave to dry as recommended, typically 2-4 hours, but refer to our 'How long does paint take to dry' guide for more information. When dry, lightly sand, clean and add another coat.

FAQs

What colour should I paint wardrobe doors?

Victoria Robinson, style and trend expert at Hillarys, gives some sound advice: “When deciding what colour to paint your wardrobe doors, consider both the mood you want to create and how the doors interact with the rest of your room.”

One suggestion she has is to paint the doors the same colour as the walls, “This is a wonderful way to create a seamless, understated look. This works especially well in smaller rooms or spaces where you want the wardrobes to blend in rather than stand out.” She adds, “It gives a calm, cohesive feel and can make the room appear larger.”

Alternatively, she says, “Opting for a tone lighter or darker than your wall colour adds subtle contrast and depth, without being too bold.” She also suggests another option: “Classic white or off-white doors are timeless and versatile, lending a fresh, clean look that works with any style.”

Should I paint front and back or just the front?

The choice is yours, but Keen suggests painting the entire door: “Paint both sides if the back is visible when the door opens.” But, he adds, “If only the front shows, skipping the back is fine, but doing both sides gives a more polished look.”

One scenario when you might only need to paint the front and edges is if you have sliding doors, as the back is rarely seen.

When painting wardrobe doors, it's a good opportunity to consider updating the rest of the room. Check out our guides on painting wooden doors, painting windows, and how to paint a room to complete your makeover.

When you notice green patches appearing on your fence, naturally you'll want to know how to rectify them. Painting over green algae on a fence can be a great option for covering it up.

However, you will need to incorporate a few essential steps, including cleaning the fence before painting so the algae doesn't reappear.

So these paint experts reveal how to tackle the problem of green algae so you can paint your fence without worrying about it coming back.

Painting over green algae

Senior brand manager, Jimmy Englezos from Ronseal explains that you could technically paint over green algae that have formed on your fence. Painting a fence alone, without trying to fix the problem of the algae, will minimise its appearance, however, the organism will still be present and could cause the paint to peel off.

"If the algae remains it will impact its structural integrity and the visible appearance of your fence. Since algae is attracted to damp conditions it can cause the wood to retain excess moisture leading to wood rot and decay," says Jimmy.

He outlines the method of how to clean the mould on the wood before painting:

1. The best solution to tackle the problem of mould on outdoor walls and fences is to fully remove it before repainting it. This can be done by brushing off loose or excess algae using a broom or stiff brush.
2. Clean any remaining patches with a solution of white vinegar like this Golden Swan - White Vinegar - for Cleaning at Amazon and hot water. Avoid using bleach as this can damage nearby plants and wildlife, and impact the colour of the wood itself.
3. Once fully dry repaint the fence in an exterior wood paint of your choice or treat it with a fence protector, which can add a waterproof layer to the wood to prevent rot and decay. Keep an eye out for algae regrowth, and if the problem returns tackle it early.

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How to prevent algae on fences

"Green mould or algae on a garden fence is caused by lack of sunlight, cool air and poor air circulation. It is prevalent on north-facing fences which don’t get much sunlight," explains Angela Slater, Gardening Expert at Hayes Garden World.

If you have climbing fence plants it is inevitable that you will get algae. Shade from trees will also encourage the formation of moulds. The only way to prevent algae is to allow sunlight to hit the fence by removing any climbing plants and anything which casts a shade over the fence."

Unfortunately, Angela explains that a north-facing fence or one down a narrow passage or side return, which doesn't get any sunlight it will be nearly impossible to prevent the formation of mould.

Identifying green algae on a fence

Jimmy Englezos outlines the three telltale signs that mould or algae have affected wood:

• Discolouration: Wood affected by mould can become discoloured with patches of green, black or brown on the surfaces which can spread if left untreated.
• Musty odour and damp smell: If affected by mould, the area will have a distinct musty odour and damp smell.
• Fuzzy or slimy texture: The area can have a fuzzy or velvety texture if affected by mould. Fuzzy growth is a strong indicator of mould infestation.

Whether you have algae growth or not, cleaning a fence before painting it is a necessary step to ensure a good surface for the paint to adhere to.

If you decide that fence maintenance is too much for you, why not consider planting a fast-growing hedge as a green alternative?

Knowing how to clean a fence before painting is an important first step to preparing the surface for a smooth finish.

Painting a fence is a great way to refresh its appearance but can also extend the life-span by creating a protective layer to the elements. To ensure that protection lasts, removing dirt and mould before application will ensure the paint sticks to the surface.

There are several solutions to achieving a clean finish, depending on the type and condition of your fence, which DIY and paint experts have shared below.

Methods for cleaning a fence

"You need to clean your garden fence thoroughly before painting as otherwise the paint won’t adhere and will probably flake off in the future," says Angela Slater, Gardening Expert at Hayes Garden World.

She outlines the common methods below:

• Using the best pressure washer for the job
• Elbow grease with soap and water
• Algon, algae remover, try 2 x Algon Organic Path and Patio Cleaner Concentrate 2.5l at Amazon.
• A wire brush can be used on a metal fence to remove any algae and flaking paint
• A 50/50 solution of white vinegar and warm water applied with a stiff brush
• Bleach and water applied with a stiff brush. Only use this if your fence is nowhere near any plants and always remember to keep pets and children indoors until the area has been thoroughly rinsed off with clean water.

How to clean a fence

1. Choose a dry day: Dr. Jonathan Kirby, Garden and Cleaning Expert at Roxil recommends waiting for a dry and sunny day to clean your fence. "Washing and treating wooden surfaces fully requires some waiting time to allow your cleaning and treatment products to work effectively on the surface. Choose a sunny day to give your products the best chance of taking effect," he says.
2. Remove debris: "Use a stiff wooden brush to brush away any loose debris from the area that you want to treat," says Dr Kirby.
3. Clean away dirt: Apply your chosen cleaner or algae remover and follow the instructions on the label. If you're using a pressure washer proceed with a gentle setting at first so as not to damage the wood.
4. Replace damaged panels: If you notice that any are rotten or broken panels it's important to replace these fence panels before you begin to paint. For smaller areas use a wood filler
5. Leave to dry: Wait until your fence is fully dry before applying any fence paint.

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Best way to clean a wooden fence

“When cleaning a wooden fence, especially a painted one, it's crucial to choose the right cleaner," begins Simon Wardle, fencing and DIY expert and the owner of Armstrong Cheshire.

“The best way to clean this type of fence is by using a pressure washer. It's incredibly effective at removing dirt, grime, mildew, and other build-up without damaging the wood itself. Pressure washing not only gets the job done quickly and thoroughly but also contributes to a longer lifespan for your fence, saving you on any future fence repair costs.”

"A bleach-free solution like Wet and Forget is ideal for stopping green mould from your fence. It's tough on mould and algae but gentle on the paint, ensuring your fence stays looking its best,” finishes Simon.

Cleaning a fence with a pressure washer

"A pressure washer is usually my go-to because it gets the job done quickly, but just be careful if you opt to use one because it can damage the wood, especially if your fence is old," says Thomas Oldham, Co-Founder, of UK Construction Blog.

"Start with a gentler spray and adjust as needed. Pressure washers are fantastic for stubborn grime, but you need to use them with care."

You can clean a fence Angela Slater adds that your fence needs to be very secure, otherwise, the pressure could knock it over. "Bear in mind this is only suitable for a solid fence to ensure that the water doesn’t go over into your neighbour's garden and damage plants."

Composite fences will also require a gentler touch which is outlined in more detail below.

How to clean a composite fence

“When cleaning a composite fence, gentleness is key. A mild detergent and water, combined with a soft brush or cloth are usually all you need to remove dirt and grime, making sure to rinse well after applying soap," says Simon Wardle.

"For more stubborn dirt a light jet wash can be helpful, but avoid high pressure that could damage the material."

Bear in mind that the nature of composite fences is that they won't need to be painted, so a simple cleaning is all the maintenance that's needed.

FAQs

How to get green off fence before painting?

A few seasons after you put up a fence you may notice green patches begin to appear. These are caused by algae growth and it's key to remove this before applying paint to your fence. Pressure washing alone won't be effective at removing the spores which cause the algae.

Angela Slater, Gardening Expert at Hayes Garden World outlines the common methods below:

• Algon is one of the quickest and easiest ways to clean algae off a wooden fence. Choose a warm calm day and spray the fence with the correct solution then just wait until it removes the algae. Any remaining algae can be brushed off with a wire brush. It will scorch foliage if it makes contact so it's not suitable if there are plants right against the fence.
• If you don’t like the thought of the Algon getting onto your plants you can use a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and warm water applied with a stiff brush. Rinse off thoroughly with clean water.
• Bleach and water applied with a stiff brush will remove the algae but only use if the fence is nowhere near your plants. Rinse off with clean water and make sure it goes straight down the drain. Make sure pets and children are kept away until the area has been thoroughly rinsed with clean water.

Cleaning a fence and giving it a fresh coat of paint is just one way to breathe new life into your garden. But paint is just one way to cover a fence. Have a look at more idea in our article on how to cover a boring fence.

Learning how to paint laminate kitchen cupboards isn't a difficult task for DIYers, but it needs to be done the right way to get the best finish. If you get the process wrong you‘ll find that you’ll be repainting your kitchen cupboards and doors much sooner than expected.

Preparation and paint are the two key factors to get a strong durable and good-looking finish. Get this right and you’ll have a great looking kitchen for years to come. But alongside the practical, you need to think carefully about your painted kitchen cabinet ideas. A great finish alone is no good if you decide you don’t like the colour and style. So choose wisely.

Why paint laminate kitchen cupboards?

Painting kitchen cupboards is a great way to make the most of your current kitchen cabinets and doors. If you're fed up with the current colour and want a fresh new contemporary colour to bring your kitchen up-to-date then a coat of paint is a quick and affordable solution as Nick Parsons, Technical Manager at Harris emphasises, “Refreshing kitchen cabinets with paint can transform your space affordably.”

Alternatively, your cabinets and doors may be looking tired and dated, but still in good condition for a makeover. Again a little love, attention and a smart new colour can transform a kitchen.

Try these tools to help paint laminate kitchen cupbaords

5 steps to paint laminate kitchen cupboards

The process for painting kitchen cupboards is a straightforward process that most DIYers can tackle. But, the more effort and time you put in the better the finish as Parson shares, “Thorough preparation is the foundation of success.” A mantra that applies across all paint projects. Here we look at the essential steps you need to take to ensure a successful finish.

1. Prepare the area

The first step is to get set up before any painting is to be done. Parsons says start with basics, “Begin by removing doors and hardware and protecting surfaces with dust sheets.” Select an area where you are going to work, protect and set up ready for painting.

2. Clean surfaces

Existing doors are unlikely to be spotless, especially with everyday cooking in the area. So you need to make sure that they are clean before starting as Parson suggests, “Clean the doors with sugar soap to remove grease and dust, ensuring a smooth and clean base.” Check our What is Sugar Soap guide for more insight on where to get and how to use.

3. Sand surfaces

To ensure that any paint adheres to a laminate surface it will need to be sanded after cleaning as Parsons shares, “Sanding is key – use an Aluminium Oxide sandpaper for plastic or laminated doors and wood surfaces to create the ideal surface for primer.”

4. Paint laminate surfaces

With the surfaces cleaned and prepped it's time to paint. Parsons says, “An all-purpose primer should be applied evenly using an angled brush, like this Ultimate Woodwork Gloss Angled Paint Brush from Amazon, for any detailed areas.”

For flat areas, invest in a gloss roller, Michael Rolland, Managing Director at The Paint Shed says, “Use a 4-inch roller to fill in the remaining space”. This needs to be followed up by light sanding before applying the next coat.

Finally, Parsons says, “Choose a durable topcoat and apply at least two layers with appropriate brushes and rollers for a professional finish.”

5. Finish up

Leave the paint to dry before moving, check the manufacturer's instructions. To finish Parsons says, “Reattach the hardware and doors, allowing the paint to cure fully to ensure long-lasting results. With quality tools and careful application, your cabinets will look brand new.”

FAQs

What paint can I use?

To get the best finish on laminate kitchen cupboards and doors you need to use the right paint and the first coat should always be a primer as Rolland shares, “When painting laminate kitchen cupboards you will need to use a primer.” He recommends using Zinsser BIN Primer and then applying your preferred top coat. A top coat needs to have a durable finish and Rolland suggests a paint like Zinsser Allcoat.

This is available in various colours, tints and finishes including Matt, Satin and Gloss. It is formulated for exteriors as well as interior paint projects which gives it a very durable finish when applied correctly.

Alternatively, Rolland says, “Try Tikkurila Helmi 10, and apply the Tikkurila Helmi Primer first for best results.”

A cheaper option is to use an emulsion that you already have and finish with a varnish. But this isn’t an option for laminate kitchen doors and cabinets if you want a durable finish. Rolland succinctly says, “Avoid using varnish when painting laminate cupboards.” He adds, “If you are looking to achieve a higher sheen finish opt for a satin or gloss finish of your chosen, suitable topcoat.

How long does paint last on laminate cabinets?

Painting laminate cabinets and doors needs to be done right to be a success as Rolland points out, “If prepped and painted properly with a high quality paint and topcoat you should enjoy a perfect finish for many years.” He adds, “Tikkurila is extremely durable and is designed to withstand repeated cleaning, scrubbing and wiping with strong detergents without damaging the finish or coverage.”

But on the flip side if you don’t put in the time and effort it won't be long before you start to see why as Rolland shares, “ However, if you opt for no primer and cheap kitchen paint you’re likely to experience scuffs and marks quickly.”

He adds, “If the kitchen is prone to high humidity and you decide to buy cheaper kitchen paint it’s likely you’ll see imperfections sooner than opting for a high-quality trade paint with a great primer too.”

So it makes sense to do your prep properly and use the right paint to get a long-lasting finish.

Should I use an electric sander?

Yes. An electric sander will help sand a surface evenly, take out some of the hard work and get the job done quicker. You can use a detail sander like this VonHaus Detail Sander from Amazon for corners and more intricate areas typically found in shaker style kitchens.

A detail sander can also be used on flat areas, but if you have large flare areas like slab style doors then a random orbital sander is a better choice to ensure a smooth finish.

Painting kitchen doors is a very cost effective option for a new look, but it might be time to replace. Check out our Replacing kitchen doors and Replacement kitchen doors cost guides for more insight. Alternatively, it might be time to get a new kitchen, check How much does a new kitchen cost before you dive in and head back to painting your kitchen cabinets and doors.

While white may be Pantone's Colour of the Year, the majority of the 2026 paint trends are far more colourful. And, while nature and embracing wellness related shades are a popular theme, don't worry if you prefer something a little bolder.

From burgundy to pink, bolts of blue and pops of yellow, there's something for everyone in this year's trends, along with a host of ideas for using the shades that can be adapted to most homes.

After all, although colour choice is personal, understanding paint trends isn't just about selecting a hue. It's also about looking at ways colour can be used to highlight and accentuate the architectural details of your home. Find out what's on offer and how to make sure you've picked the perfect palette when painting a room.

6 paint colours that are trending in 2026

1. Earthy and muted tones are at the core of paint trends

Of all the experts we spoke to, one message was loud and clear when it comes to the 2026 paint trends. The nature-based shades which we saw grow in popularity in 2025, are here to stay.

"The appeal for earthy, muted heritage shades will remain strong across both interior and exteriors," says Anna Hill, brand director and colour consultant at Fenwick & Tilbrook.

"Timeless tones with natural depth, and mid neutrals with warm undertones will be used to define calm, comforting spaces. We’ve seen these shades dominate our top 20 colours recently, which we’re taking as a sign that timeless shades aren’t going anywhere."

So why are we still leaning towards nature for our paint trends inspiration?

"As the interiors landscape has seen a shift towards slower living, wellness and reconnecting with our surroundings, homeowners are looking to reflect these elements in their colour palettes, to seek more comfort and connection with the natural world," says Bailey Williams, Colour Expert at Earthborn.

“Earthy interiors aren’t just about colour; it’s about creating an atmosphere that feels grounded, warm and restorative, and using paint thoughtfully can make a huge impact," she adds.

Shop for nature inspired paint trends

2. Bold burgundy will add depth

Burgundy featured as a hot favourite in the fashion industry last year, and as is often the case, made its way into interior design trends as well. The perfect shade for adding drama to a natural palette, its deep rich tones can be used across the home.

"Burgundy and red tones are great for interior and exterior palettes," says Anna Hill, "offering a sense of warmth, depth and sophistication in our homes.

"They bring a rich, timeless look that’s reminiscent of heritage architecture and natural materials, yet they’re being reimagined in fresher, more versatile ways for 2026," she explains.

"Deep burgundies help to ground rooms with elegance, working beautifully on doors, cabinetry and feature walls where they can anchor a space with understated drama."

Feeling brave? Opt for a colour drenching effect like this idea where a boot room becomes a warm and welcoming space from the minute you walk through the door. From a practical sense, it can also be more forgiving on dirt.

For the same look, use the Divine Damson paint from Graham & Brown.

3. Blue will be boundless in 2026 paint trends

Although some interior experts say using blue carries the risk of making your home feel too cool, when the Dulux Colours of the Year 2026 were revealed to be a trio of blue shades, it confirmed we no longer need to see blue as a shade to shy away from.

It's perhaps no real surprise given the trend to lean in and embrace nature in all its glory, but how and where you use it will often come down to personal preference.

Here, shades of blue are used to draw the eye from one room into another. It's a clever way of picking a colour palette and really leaning into it, without it feeling too overpowering or too cold. Be sure to also think about the natural light in the rooms you are planning on using blue, as rooms lacking in daylight will need warm, rather than cool tones, in order to avoid feeling too cold.

4. Pick any shade of green and you won't go far wrong

Whether you have the urge for vibrant wall panelling or want to create a soft and soothing guest bedroom idea, green – a perennial favourite in paint trends – is your friend in these situations.

"Along with blue, shades of green will continue to remain staple favourites for 2026," confirms Anna Hill. "Greens evoke a feeling of nature, growth and renewal, which is perfectly in line with the shift towards nature-inspired colours. We expect these shades to be used as foundational colours, helping to define entire rooms and not just as accent colours," she adds.

"Khaki greens will steal the show in 2026," predicts Sara D’Souza, content strategist & Creator at Frenchic Paint. "Whether it's the warm earthy neutral of Funky Dora to the mid-tone greenish brown of Olivia, both look perfect paired with metallics," she suggests.

"To go darker, try a full colour drench in the British racing green of Victory Lane, it works with every style – botanical, jewel, earthy, classic or vintage," advises Sara. "Verdigris also works perfectly to cocoon a room to cosy – it’s the perfect deep smoky blue with cool greenish undertones. Or, another fabulous green-blue with cool undertones is Scotch Mist."

5. Pick pink for a rosy glow

No stranger to the appeal of pink, having already delighted in sharing pink bathroom ideas that are fun but stylish, we're happy to see pink stay on the list of paint trends for 2026. Why? Because there's no doubt that the right shade of pink is a warm and comforting paint colour, that's rooted firmly in wellbeing, wellness and positive thought.

"We expect warm pinks to hold their place as a soft and uplifting accent, offering a subtle warmth that complements both neutral and nature-inspired shades," says Anna Hill.

And, while some critics may say pink is too sweet and sickly, it's about choosing the right shade. One that adds a, "nuanced emotional depth, brightening spaces without overwhelming them and creating a sense of intimacy and calm," she explains.

Anna shares how, "sales of our pink tones have already gone up by 48% with dustier shades like our Marrakech, Vintage Peony and Dusky Linen being stand-outs amongst homeowners and designers alike."

As with most of the lighter shades in 2026's paint trends, "the colours gaining momentum suggest a collective desire to create spaces that nurture us, spark joy and reflect a deeper sense of harmony," agrees Kate Palmer, creative director at The Painted Furniture Company. "It’s not just about what looks good, it’s about what feels right.

"These colours feel like a gentle embrace, offering comfort but also a hint of creativity and confidence. It’s as if we’re ready to welcome a little more personality back into our lives, but in a way that still feels considered," she adds.

6. Brown gets an upgrade with a dash of grey

While 2025 may well have been the start of our love affair with brown paint in our homes, 2026 sees the arrival of a new, darker shade. And one that's been created by adding a healthy infusion of modern charcoal grey.

Silhouette AF-655 is Benjamin Moore's colour of the year and we love it for the fact it gives us a softer alternative to the traditional darker feeling of black and grey.

"This move towards more nuanced neutrals reflects growing interest in colours that have a distinctive presence and staying power, without shouting for attention like the maximalist palettes of years gone by," says Helen Shaw, director of marketing (International) at Benjamin Moore.

"All of our 2026 colour trends hone in on this idea, with a palette that we’ve named ‘Tailored Classics’," explains Helen. "It's led by Silhouette, an alluring mix of rich espresso hues with subtle notes of charcoal that can be used in a variety of styles and spaces.

"This brown-grey hue creates a perfect backdrop when colour drenching a space," she suggests, "or a moment of contrast when used with a lighter colour. And, similar to a tailored touch in fashion, it can elevate a design and take it from expected to exceptional.”

8 ways to use the 2026 paint trends in your home

1. Combine blue with metallics

The Mylands Colour of the Year for 2026 is a shade called Burlington Arcade No.216, and although it's blue, it has a distinct tone and was chosen for a reason, explains Dominic Myland, CEO of Mylands.

“Homeowners are moving toward richer tones that feel grounding and restorative, and the complexity of this blue green shade means it can bring warmth rather than coolness," he says.

"Its depth works for colour drenching, cabinetry and cocooning rooms, and the reassuring mid tones balance heritage character with a modern, considered look.”

But, to avoid your preferred shade of blue feeling on the cool side, adding some gold or bronze metallics, either in the form of paint or wallpaper will bring warmth to your walls. Or, if cool is your calling, add silver or chrome instead.

2. Make sure your paint trends feature outside

If you're keen to set the tone for how the rest of your home will look, there's no better place to start than by embracing paint trends outside your home, as well as inside. But, with enough of a difference so that your home stands out from the crowd.

"For outdoors, we expect paint trends to embrace slightly bolder versions of indoor favourites, helping to create a seamless transition between interior and exterior spaces, all while adding an extra layer of kerb appeal," states Anna Hill.

"Homeowners are increasingly being drawn to colours that make a statement from the street yet remain harmonious with their overall design scheme. Stronger greens inspired by lush foliage and natural landscapes will become more prominent on shutters, trims and garden walls, while deep burgundies will emerge as a striking choice for front doors, offering a rich and sophisticated contrast to neutral facades," she predicts.

"These colours will not only enhance visual impact but allow personality to shine through, bringing a more thoughtful approach to outdoor design that balances boldness with timeless appeal.”

3. Swap white for colour when painting woodwork

Although a fresh coat of white paint on woodwork can boost even the dullest of interiors, it can also be a little bland. Instead of following the same tried and test formulas, use this years paint trends as an opportunity to try something new.

Choosing different colour window frames can be one structural change you can make or, for something a little less expensive, turn your skirtings and door frames into a feature by coating them in the same colour as your walls, then add a pop of visual interest with a dado rail in a totally different colour.

4. Or, use paint to create architectural detail instead

When it comes to the finishing touches in your interior design, before you head to the shops to buy decorative items to add to your home, the boldness of some of this year's paint trends make it possible to consider your walls as a canvas in themselves.

Add frames and artwork directly to the wall, contrasting a lighter frame with your dark wall to create a ready made picture mount, or even try unleashing your creativity to paint borders using contrasting shades for a fun effect.

Stock up on the best paint kit for trying new trends

5. Pair blue and red

Sometimes, there's a colour combination that on paper doesn't seem like it will work, but in reality it does. Both blue and red are strong players in this year's paint trends, but not just as colours in their own right. Combining them together also works surprisingly well, providing the perfect balance of cool and warm tones for an end result that you can imagine working well anywhere in the home.

"These subtle yet strong shades allow people to build schemes that feel crafted and lived in, and they pair easily with texture and natural materials," explains designer, Birdie Fortescue.

"The focus is shifting toward paint that supports atmosphere rather than dominates it, creating rooms that feel timeless and allow for layering additional colour through rugs, cushions, and furniture.”

So whether you're searching for bedroom colour inspiration or a fresh new finish in your kitchen renovation, don't be scared to give this particular combination a try.

6. Combine darker colours for dramatic effect

Although the paint trends of colour drenching and colour capping rely on using one colour in which to douse a room, there's a little more creativity on offer for the 2026 paint trends.

It's about picking a palette, be it heritage shades or paler neutrals and using different colours to draw out the architectural features of your home.

“From statement walls to cocooning colour drenching, thinking outside the box and being playful with paint remains a powerful tool to add interest in your home, and a popular paint trend in 2026," says Bailey Williams.

Paint picture rails and skirting boards in one shade, your walls in another, then add a surprising contrast with a bold border. Have fun and use your paint trends for more than just adding colour to your walls.

7. Try pink and green but with an extra edge

Keen to add some easy DIY projects into your plans in 2026? Take inspiration from this pretty pairing of green and pink in this bedroom and dressing room idea. A subtle green is used on the dressing room walls, and while the bedroom beyond is coated in pink and separated with an arched pocket door, pink skirting and a scalloped designed painted around the door frame helps to unite the two rooms.

To replicate this colour palette, you need Dream Whip and Grenadier Pond – both from Benjamin Moore.

8. Opt for a 50:50 technique

Given we've already seen 10 new shades of paint from Fenwick & Tilbrook this year to mark their 10 year anniversary, it's fair to say you could be spoilt for choice when browsing for paint colours in 2026.

The good news is, playing with paint isn't restricted to choosing just one shade. How and where you use them can be as simple or as extravagant as you like. Here, two of the new shades from Fenwick & Tilbrook provide a sharp contrast and an almost night and day approach to decorating.

"A split colour approach where you paint the top half in a lighter colour and the bottom half in a darker colour, can make a room seem larger too," says Bailey Oates.

“And for homes with an open-plan layout or larger rooms where it can feel cold and impersonal, earthy shades are especially effective to anchor a space and make it feel cosier and inviting. A warm berry or clay coloured wall in a bedroom or living room promotes relaxation and comfort,” she adds.

Of course, for a finish like this, you need a steady hand and the right kit too. Find out if masking tape or painter's tape is the best option when trying out these paint trend ideas.

If you're feeling inspired to start upgrading your walls, ceilings or even furniture with 2026's paint trends, preparation is the key to the best end result. Make sure you know how to strip paint off walls correctly, and how long to leave between coats of paint to ensure your fresh new finish lasts you for years to come.

So let me set the scene, I have a fairly large upstairs bathroom which was in an OK state when I bought it a couple of years ago. Or so I thought. As the cold weather set in it became clear that it was poorly insulated, with freezing cold walls that were prone to condensation.

The paint job I gave it, using a standard emulsion, rather than a specialist bathroom paint, a complete DIY faux pas I know, was an attempt to smarten it up a bit, in lieu of a full-on remodel. However, mould began to appear around the shower area and damp patches formed across the walls.

It was clear that the bathroom had a big issue, which would need to be tackled. A friend recommended using a specialist paint as a quick-fix solution to stop condensation, so I set about finding a suitable product.

The low down on anti-condensation paint

The product that appeared to fit the bill was the Dryzone Anti-Condensation Paint available at Amazon. It's pricier than standard paints so understandably, I wanted to learn more about it before I committed to using it.

I was able to speak to a leading industry expert on damp and waterproofing products, Damian Wallis, who is also the technical lead at Safeguard Europe.

He provided some in-depth detail about how this anti-condensation paint product works and how I should use it.

What is anti-condensation paint?

"Anti-condensation paint is designed to prevent condensation forming on the surface of the walls," explains Damian. "Tiny glass spheres are contained within the paint which help to create a lower thermal conductivity on the surface of the wall. The change in that surface temperature helps prevent condensation from forming."

This piqued my interest as a low temperature is a huge problem in my bathroom currently, I have window condensation as well as wall condensation, so knowing that anti-condensation paint works by raising the temperature felt like it could be an advantageous product in dealing with my issue.

Damian went on to explain the "open-pore structure" of the paint stops water from forming as droplets on the surface, unlike a vinyl or emulsion paint, by absorbing the droplets and allowing evaporation to occur.

Finally, there are trace amounts of preservatives within the paint that act as a barrier to mould growth.

Damian pointed out to me that it's important to note that using anti-condensation paint alone won't permanently eradicate the problem, or remove condensation from the air like a dehumidifier. However, it does prevent it from forming for about twice as long as a normal emulsion.

The take-home message I got is that this could be a good first port of call to tackle the condensation and black mould in my bathroom. And though the paint is pricey, it would be considerably less than external wall insulation costs.

When to use anti-condensation paint

"Use anti-condensation paint wherever you notice condensation. This includes bathrooms, kitchens, and external walls where the surface is colder than internal walls," explains Damian. My problem space is a double whammy, a bathroom with two large external walls.

"It's unlikely that you'll need to use anti-condensation paint on wood surfaces as it doesn't get as cold as concrete or masonry will. If you do get condensation or mould on wood panels it's likely to be because it's been painted with a gloss or vinyl paint."

Anti mould paint is an alternative option, available in white or magnolia, but they work in a slightly different way. "They both contain a biocide but it won't have the spheres in it so it is a way of preventing mould growth from forming on painted surfaces without preventing condensation.

Anti-condensation paint step by step

After deciding that there was no harm in trying this product, as the situation certainly couldn't get any worse, I set about gathering the tools and materials I'd need for the job.

I asked Damian about applying the paint, and his advice was: "Use a medium pile roller, sponge roller, or a brush if you want to."

At this point, I will mention that I have not been paid to advertise any of these products.

What I used:

• Dryzone Mould Remover and Prevention Kit available at Amazon
• Dryzone Anti-condensation Paint 2.5L Matt White available at Amazon
• Safety goggles
• Face mask
• Plastic sheets
• Sanding block
• Paint roller and tray - I used Harris Seriously Good Walls & Ceilings Paint Roller from Amazon
• Paintbrush
• Step ladder

1. Cleaning the mould off your surfaces

As you can see I had a lot of nasty black mould collected at the top of my ceiling and who knows what other types of mould. So before I could start any painting this would need to come off. As well as the mould cleaner, the first step, there is also a sanitiser that goes on afterwards.

The kit I used for removing mould off walls contained an instruction manual, which I would definitely recommend reading before you start, as well as a good quality and decent-sized microfibre cloth that was ideal for the job in hand.

The kit does include gloves, which are perfectly adequate, however, not included are protective goggles, which I'd say are a definite necessity.

It says on the kit to avoid eyes however the spray bottles produce quite a fine mist, and if you're spraying upwards (which I was) it's almost impossible to avoid some of this wafting towards the face and eye area.

The more I sprayed the eliminator, the more "stingy" my eyes got, and donning them near the end of the task was very much a "barn door, horse bolting" scenario.

A face mask is also a nice-to-have, which isn't included. Do ensure that you're windows are open the whole time too.

2. Cleaning the mould off your surface continued

The method (as you'll glean from the manual) is fairly simple and involves spraying the eliminator directly onto your walls, focusing on the mould areas in particular. However, I gave the whole area a spritzing as I knew I'd be painting it afterwards.

The eliminator has an almost instantaneous effect on your mould, disappearing very quickly. The advice however is to leave it on a few minutes before wiping away any residue with the cloth.

I was extremely happy with the effect already and was tempted to leave it at that. But I figured that why would they go to the trouble of including the sanitiser spray if it wasn't essential?

Damian had also warned me that the mould organism can still remain in the substrate after the cleaning phase, and using the sanitiser spray gets to the root of the mould itself by killing off the fungal spore. Which, even if I didn't fully understand, sounded extremely vital.

3. Leave it to dry thoroughly

Assessing the state of my walls after cleaning off the mould I was already extremely happy with the change in appearance. The black mould had disappeared and the damp-looking patches causing the surface of the paint to look uneven had even lessened somewhat.

My plan was still to paint the walls with a roller and the anti-condensation paint so I left the mould cleaner to dry out completely for 24 hours with the doors shut and the windows open.

4. Apply the first coat of paint

Once my walls had dried out I gave them a quick once-over with a sanding block and wiped away the residue with a dry cloth.

Damian told me I would need to apply a minimum of two coats. "Typically give about one to three hours depending on the conditions that you're applying it to, for that first coat to dry off."

"You don't want to make it too thick, otherwise it might end up slightly stippled. Because we do have to bear in mind there are these tiny little glass spheres within the paint."

At this point, I would advise that you adjust your expectations slightly as according to Damian this is a "performance product", rather than a decorative one, so it won't give the same finish you might expect from an eggshell or satin paint.

5. Leave it to dry and apply the second coat

Being conscious of Damian's advice of not applying it too thickly I wasn't too happy with the result of my first coat, where I'd used the roller. However, in defence of the paint I was covering a rich pink shade.

I used a foam roller on the larger walls but a paintbrush on the smaller sections, above my tiles for example, and I personally found that the brush applied the paint at a better rate and produced a more even finish with less effort.

Therefore for my second coat, I decided to abandon the roller and go straight in with the paintbrush. Of course, this will come down to personal preference, so use whatever tool you feel is providing you with the best coverage. That being said, avoid mechanical paint sprayers.

FAQs

Does anti-condensation paint work?

Here is the million-dollar question. Having used anti-condensation paint myself and speaking to the manufacturers at Dryzone, I have surmised that yes, it works, but only to a point.

Dryzone don't claim that anti-condensation paint can fix the problem however, what they do suggest is that it will keep the condensation from forming for at least twice as long as regular paint, by raising the surface temperature of your walls.

"Anti-condensation paint would be a first port of call for a lot of people, and you want to spend only as much as you need to spend," says Damian.

You would deal with the mould first, clean that up and then you might apply your anti-condensation paint to manage the surface temperature. If that doesn't work you'd need to look at other measures such as improving ventilation or insulating your walls."

For me, I know the thermal performance of my bathroom is poor because of how cold it is, and being on the second floor we really need to look at getting the roof done. However, as an interim measure, I am satisfied that the black mould has been eradicated and I may have bought myself a bit more time until I can afford the more substantial work to prevent the issue.

Can I paint on top of anti-condensation paint?

Some, anti-condensation paint manufacturers, such as Ronseal Anti-Condensation paint available at Amazon, claim that you can paint over it, however, Damian at Dryzone consulted with their lab team who said that it's "inadvisable" as it can "alter the performance of the paint."

So essentially, depending on the brand of paint you're using you could paint over, or it may impact how well the product works, which you may not want to jeopardise.

It is possible to get anti-condensation paint in different shades and SmartSeal Anti-Condensation paint at B&Q does a decent colour range including slate and terracotta.

Overall I'm happy with the look of the finished result, and in comparison to what I started out with it's chalk and cheese. The wall surface isn't perfectly smooth as I was warned it wouldn't be, however, unless you're looking up close I don't think it's noticeable.

I will need to fix the long-term problem by investigating bathroom ventilation to see if I can eradicate all issues going forwards.

However bold you are with your decorating choices, there comes a time when you just need a trusty white emulsion. Whether it’s purely for ceilings or you love the crisp look of an all-white room, we all need a tub of great white paint to hand when we're painting a room.

I’ve tried almost every brand over the years – from store own-labels to high-end favourites – and the best white paint is from a company you’ve probably never heard of.

In my opinion, Tikkurila Anti Reflex 2, available at B&Q, is the best white paint on the market right now, and here’s why…

No streaks, ever

There’s nothing worse than spending hours painting a wall or ceiling, only for it to dry and you be left with brush or roller marks. Anti Reflex 2 is a water-based acrylic paint, which gives brilliant flat, matt coverage. Because it doesn’t reflect light back, you don’t see any roller or brush marks.

You don’t need any fancy technique with this paint but my advice for painting a ceiling, in particular, is to apply it with a large roller in 1m2 sections. Once that’s done, roll the paint off at 90-degrees to the natural light coming into the room. It’s a tip I picked up from a professional decorator and has seen me through many a ceiling paint job.

Great coverage

Don’t get me wrong, you’ll always need two coats (after your mist coat when painting new plaster), but I’ve never had to apply more than that with Tikkurila Anti Reflex 2. The acrylic base means it gives exceptional coverage. My two little girls have a habit of drawing on walls if they think they can get away with it, and this paint always covers the marks in one coat.

I also find a little of this paint goes a long way. Because of the acrylic formula, it’s designed not to splash or drip as much as some water-based paints, which means less wastage – and less cleaning paint spots off your face at 10pm.

Flawless touch ups

I buy 10-litre tubs of Anti Reflex 2 as they’re definitely the most cost effective. The plastic tubs come with an easy-to-reseal lid, unlike metal tins, which have lids that never go back on properly and can lead to the paint degrading.

One of my biggest bugbears when it comes to paint is not being able to touch it up. For instance, I have a pink paint in my house that I tried to touch up a week after I’d applied it and the colours just won’t match – even after the light has been on the new patches, they still stand out.

Luckily, with Tikkurila Anti Reflex 2, you can wander around with a brush and touch up any marks, safe in the knowledge that they’ll blend straight in and you won’t be able to see any joins. I may be strange but this is one of my favourite weekend pastimes as it makes the house feel fresh again.

Any downsides?

I’ve read this back and realised it sounds extremely positive – and that’s because Tikkurila Anti Reflex 2 is a product I discovered four years ago from a slightly OCD friend and have been recommending to everybody I know ever since.

My only criticism of the paint is that it is a higher price point compared to standard own-brand white paints, but given the coverage, finish and lack of wastage, it’s more than worth it, in my opinion. Especially if you can find it at a sale price and stock up.

When planning a painting project it's a good idea to have an idea of how long it will take to paint a room before you start. You can then make appropriate plans for prepping the space, storing furniture and potentially setting up a new temporary space (for example when painting a space like a kitchen or study) ensuring the work is not too disruptive.

After you've finished painting the space, don't forget to clean your paint rollers and brushes properly to keep them in pristine condition. And if you've dripped any paint on your carpet, our top tips on how to get paint off carpet will help resolve the issue.

Stain vs varnish is a choice you typically have to make when treating wood. For instance, are you looking to change the appearance of your wooden floors? Or perhaps you want to add a level of protection to help keep out moisture and dirt from your wooden furniture?

These are two common scenarios, but not only ones, where stain and varnish are the preferred choice. But what you choose may depend on what type of wood flooring, joinery or furniture you have, what finish you want, and how it's going to be used. Here the pros help you make the right choice for your project.

Stain vs varnish: When and where you should use them

Stain and varnish are both ideal for wooden floors and furniture, but they have different properties and uses. Brandon Walker, Construction manager at ASAP Restoration LLC delves into the best scenarios for both, starting with stain. 

Where and when should I use stain?

“You should use stain anytime you need to protect a wood surface but you don’t want to cover it up with paint," shares Walker. “That said, you can also use varnish in these scenarios if you don’t want to tint the wood a new colour that isn’t already present in the grain.”

So why use wood stain? “Stain is commonly used to change the appearance of a particular wood. This can mean making softwoods look like hardwoods, or just covering up defects and damage in hardwoods in general.”

Now you know why stain is used, what and where it is typically applied. Walker explains: “The applications for stain are nearly endless, but most of the time it is used to amplify or enhance a wood product that people see often, such as flooring, bannisters, furniture and mantelpieces.” 

What wood works well with stain?

Are all woods suitable for stain? What types of wood are best for staining? “Raw wood is a prime candidate for staining because it protects the wood, and it enhances the natural grain beauty that is already there to start.”

However, if you have an engineered wood floors or surfaces this will often already be stained as Walker explains: “Engineered hardwoods tend to come with a stain and sealant already embedded in them so this means that usually they don’t need any additional treatment.”

Elsewhere Walker suggests that: “Wood furniture will need a protective stain/sealant combo. It may require a varnish as well, to ensure that the outside layer of the wood doesn’t get damaged by the elements.”

He adds: “Hardwoods should really just be protected with sealant like varnish to allow the natural beauty of the wood to shine through, but softwoods will likely require both to make them look better and protect them from damage.”

Where and when should I use varnish?

Varnish is different to stain. “Stain penetrates the wood while varnish is a sealant that adheres to the top layer of the wood surface,” Walkers says, explaining the key difference. “Use varnish when you want to keep the natural colour of the wood intact without adding colour.”

Varnish is typically used on projects where, “people want to preserve the natural colours and grain of the wood surface.” He continues that: “It’s the common choice for projects like flooring, kitchen tables, end tables, desks, and anything else that requires protection, but not colour changes.”

Joseph Tauscher, production coordinator at remodelling company Lamont Bros adds: “Some varnishes can be tinted, but they are generally clear and protect against moisture, wear, and UV light. For any project involving wood, always add a protective finish like varnish to ensure longevity and durability.” 

Can stain and varnish be used together?

The simple answer is yes, with a host of scenarios you could use these two together. Why? Walker keeps it simple and to the point: “Stain will provide the colour and varnish will provide the protection.”

“A coffee table is a good example of a wood surface that may need both stain and varnish to get the best results. The stain may be needed if the wood is less than ideal looking, and the varnish will be needed to protect the surface because coffee tables get a lot of use.”

But how do you apply them so they work together cohesively? Tauscher explains: “Typically, you would first apply the stain to achieve the desired colour, let it dry for 12-24 hours, and then apply a varnish or other top coat to protect both the wood and the colour.” 

He adds: “It’s essential to ensure compatibility between the products, especially when mixing oil-based and water-based finishes. When done correctly, this combination can enhance the appearance and durability of wooden surfaces." 

FAQs

Do I need to remove varnish before staining? 

Varnish provides a hard-wearing protective layer that helps repel dirt, stain and water, so you cannot add a stain directly on top of a layer of varnish. If you do it will quickly flake off, or if on floors footfall will cause it to be scuffed off quickly.

Ideally you want to remove the layer of varnish before you add a stain to get the full effect of the stain. However, you can sand off the shine of the varnish and apply the stain, but it's unlikely you will get quite the same finish as going back to bare wood.  

Does stain and varnish make wood waterproof? 

Varnish provides a layer that sits on top of the wood which helps repel water, effectively making it waterproof. Stain works slightly different and soaks into the wood fibres, and will offer a level of water resistance rather than being waterproof.  

If you are going to stain or varnish wood there’s a very good chance you will be sanding wood before you add either. If refreshing a floor, again there’s a good chance you will be sanding floorboards ready for a new finish. Check out our staining wood floors guide if looking to add a new colour to your floor.   

Varnishing wood floors makes perfect sense if you want to retain the natural beauty of the wood grain for all to see. It adds a clear protective layer that will keep the floor looking good for longer. And you can choose what finish you want to ensure that it matches up with your decor.

Most types of wood flooring are a good choice for varnish, but not all. If yours is (most natural woods are), here you’ll find what you need to do to get it ready for varnishing, what varnish and tools to use, and how to apply for the best finish. 

Varnishing wood floors: Preparation and application

Whether you are tackling a new wooden floor or restoring an old wood floor to its former glory, you've got to do your prep first before applying any varnish. There will be a little more work when tackling an old wooden floor, but not too much I promise. 

How do you prepare floorboards for varnishing? 

Whatever the condition and finish of a floor, the preparation process is similar. Kirk Evans, Technical Manager at Woodpecker Flooring. Explains the general process, “Start by cleaning the floorboards thoroughly, removing any dirt or debris.” Follow this up by, “Sanding the surface with fine-grit sandpaper to smooth out imperfections and remove old finishes.” Finally, “Vacuum the dust, then wipe the boards with a damp cloth. Ensure the wood is dry before applying a primer or stain if desired.”

This method is a good choice for bare wood floors, but if you have waxed, painted, or stained floors you may need to consider stripping before sanding. Note, if you have a stained wooden floor it will be difficult to remove a dark stain and replace it with a lighter stain. You can add more stain to get a darker, richer tone and even a varnish to add a matt, satin, or gloss finish and an extra layer of protection. 

How do you apply varnish to wood floors? 

Adding varnish to a wooden floor is typically a choice between a roller, pad and paintbrush. But which should you use and where? Evans shares that, “A brush is ideal for precision around edges and corners, while a foam roller or pad is great for covering large areas quickly.” 

But, “The choice depends on the floor's size and your comfort level,” he adds. The ideal solution is to, “Combine both tools to ensure a smooth, even finish, with brushes handling detail work and rollers managing broader strokes.

But how do you get started? “Begin by stirring the varnish gently to avoid bubbles," explains Evans. “Use a high-quality brush or foam roller to apply the varnish evenly along the grain of the wood.” But where do you start? “Start from a corner and work your way out, maintaining a wet edge to prevent lap marks. Let each coat dry thoroughly before applying the next.”

What should I use to varnish wooden floors?

This may seem obvious – varnish, but there are different types of finish that work well on wooden floors as Evans explains, “Polyurethane varnish is a popular choice for wooden floors due to its durability and resistance to scratches and water.” 

He adds, “Traditional varnish provides a more natural finish but may require more maintenance.” What should you use? “We recommend using a water-based polyurethane varnish, for an eco-friendly option that dries quickly and offers excellent protection.” 

Try these to get a great varnished wood floor 

FAQs

How long after varnishing can you walk on it? 

Varnish needs to dry and cure before it can be fully appreciated. But there are a few factors that will determine how soon you can walk on it and add furniture and rugs. A key consideration is the varnish base. Water-based varnish typically dries quicker than an oil-based varnish.

But, as a general guideline Evans suggests that you, “Wait at least 24 hours before walking on the floor with socks or soft shoes. For heavier traffic or furniture placement, allow 72 hours to ensure the varnish has fully cured.” He adds that, “Patience ensures a flawless finish that lasts longer.” Make sure to take note. 

Can I put new varnish over old varnish? 

Yes you can. But the key factor is the condition of the current varnish. If the varnish is in good condition it will need a clean to ensure that it's free from dirt, debris and grease before you move on to the next step.

So what is the next step? Evans shares that you need to, “Lightly sand the existing varnish to create a surface that the new varnish can adhere to.” Use a fine sandpaper grade - a 120-180 grit is typically a good choice. He adds, “Clean thoroughly to remove dust and debris before applying the new varnish. This process revitalises your floor without the need for stripping.” 

Varnishing a wooden floor is one option for your home, but you may want to try something different before you add a coat of varnish. Check out our Wood flooring ideas and Best flooring for kitchen guides to get the best from your floor. And, if your looking to get a new wooden floor don’t miss out on reading our How to buy reclaimed wood flooring guide to get a unique and cost effective solution. 

What is lacquer paint sounds like a simple question, but it's not quite as straightforward as you might think. A simple and basic answer is that it's a clear coating. This is true, but, again, it's not strictly correct as you can get tinted lacquers. However, the clear option is the most popular.

Then you need to know what it's used for? Can you use it for painting a wall? Is it a good choice for protecting wooden furniture? Can it be used to protect kitchen cabinets? Again the answer is not straightforward, but here we look to help you understand what it is, where it can be used and the best way to apply it.  

What is lacquer paint? A simple definition

Lacquer paint is not like a traditional paint that you think of when painting a wall or woodwork. “Lacquer is a fast-drying coating that gives a durable finish as it creates a hard, glossy and typically clear finish,” explains Yaeir Moinzadeh, owner of Blue Rise Roofing. 

The finish is similar to varnish in appearance and: “the coating can resist water, heat, chemicals and is chip resistant,” Yaeir continues. “Typically, lacquer paint dries within 15-30 minutes and is fully cured in about 24 hours.”

When is lacquer paint typically used?

The nature of lacquer paint means that it is durable, has a strong resistance to external factors and produces a deep glossy shine. This makes it a popular choice for “furniture and musical instruments, as well as ceramic tiles, metal, glass, and outdoor furniture,” reveals Moinzadeh.

Where else can it be used around the home? It’s commonly used on kitchen cabinets to provide a protective layer over natural wood, engineered wood like MDF and melamine covered wood. It will help protect the cabinets and extend their longevity. 

How to apply lacquer paint

The popular and most effective method to apply lacquer paint is with a spray gun. Why? “It allows for even application and a smooth finish,” explains Moinzadeh. “ Use an HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) sprayer. With this method, a glass-like and professional-looking finish can be achieved. It is the reason why sprayers are preferred over brushes. “

But before you can apply a lacquer paint you need to prep a surface to get the best finish. “Start by prepping the target area. Make the surface smoother by cleaning it thoroughly and sanding it. After that, apply a bonding primer, especially if the surface is made of glass or metal.” suggests Moinzadeh. 

But how do you apply lacquer paint? “The key is to use even, overlapping strokes and maintain a consistent distance of about 6-8 inches from the surface.” shares Moinzadeh. “Here’s an additional tip - always apply thin coats and sand lightly between layers, for the best results.” 

He adds, “When it comes to lacquer paint, applying multiple thin layers is preferred over one thick coat. Typically, 3-4 coats are considered best for achieving a good finish. Always let each coat dry completely before applying the next! This process usually takes about 30-60 minutes. Before the final buffing and polishing, try to wait at least 24 hours.”

How do you buff a surface? “Buff the surface with steel wool for a smoother finish. This should be done after the final step.” And don’t forget about safety, “Always work in a well-ventilated area.” shares Yaeir. “In addition, to prevent yourself from inhaling strong fumes, it is critical to wear a protective mask.”

Try these spray painters for your next DIY project

What types of finishes and sheen is lacquer available in?

Lacquers typically come in three types. Nitrocellulose lacquer is the most commonly used, it dries quickly, but it does yellow as it ages. Catalyzed lacquer like this TekDur Pre Catalysed Wood Lacquer from Amazon, comes in two forms pre-catalyzed and post-catalyzed. 

Pre is pre-mixed, while post allows the user to mix the two-part system. Typically used on bare wood and very durable. Water-based lacquer is more eco-friendly and is commonly used to refinish kitchen cabinets.  

You can choose from a variety of sheens depending on what you want. Gloss provides the highest sheen, while matte provides the lowest sheen. In between you can choose from semi-gloss and satin like this Jenolite range available from Amazon.  

FAQs

Is lacquer paint oil-based or water-based? 

“Traditionally, lacquer paint isn’t oil-based or water-based, it is solvent-based.” explains Moinzadeh. “Lacquer thinner is typically used as its main solvent, which carries fast-drying properties and durability.”

But traditional lacquer paint has a high level of VOCs and to reduce these and make lacquer more environmentally-friendly, modern water-based lacquers are also available. 

Can you use lacquer on top of oil/water based paint? 

“It's not recommended to use traditional lacquer on top of oil or water-based paints, shares Moinzadeh. “This is because lacquer's strong solvents may dissolve underlying paint layers after reacting with them. It can also cause lifting or wrinkling. It’s preferred to use lacquer directly on bare, and properly prepared surfaces such as wood.”

However, it can be used over compatible primers, which are specifically designed for lacquer. And low VOC water-based lacquers are more compatible with other paints. 

What’s the difference between lacquer and varnish? 

Lacquer and varnish finishes both look very similar in appearance and it's hard to distinguish between the two. Lacquer is traditionally solvent based, but there are water-based options, while varnish is water or oil-based and typically takes longer to dry. Varnish is commonly applied with a brush or roller while lacquer is applied with a spray gun. 

How long does lacquer paint last? 

This will depend on the original preparation, what material it has been applied to and what conditions it has been exposed to. For example, if the lacquer is added to poorly prepped furniture, left outside in all weathers and conditions it's unlikely to last past a year before it starts to spoil. But, if applied correctly to a well prepped surface and stored/used in ideal conditions, it can easily last over 10 years.  

There is an art to spray painting and you can get some pro tips in our A DIY guide to spray painting wood and Spray painting kitchen cabinets guides. Check out our best paint sprayers guide for budget and mid-price options.    

Satin vs matt paint isn’t an easy decision to make when tackling a paint project. Both have a lot of plus points, so we are here to reveal the key differences and help you decide which you should use and where. 

If you are painting a wall, which wall are you painting? What room is it in? Does it need a durable, wipeable finish? Do you want a subtle sheen for a more serene room? Are you painting skirting boards and need a hard-wearing finish? We answer these questions and more to make sure you choose the right paint for whatever you are working on.  

Satin vs matt paint: What's the difference?

The key difference between satin and matt paint is the finish. They have different levels of sheen with a satin paint having a higher sheen than matt paint. 

Matt paint is typically water-based and is commonly an emulsion paint for walls. However, you can purchase matt paint for furniture and even oil-based matt paint for wood and metal. 

Satin paints are commonly available in oil and water-based paint options, with water-based paints being better for the environment while oil-based paints are typically more durable. 

The pros and cons of satin paint?

What does a paint with a higher sheen bring to a surface? What does it do well and not so well? Shakir Hussain, director at HandyHumans offers some pro opinion. 

+ Easy to clean - It's pretty easy to clean, which is great if you've got kids or pets who like to get the walls and woodwork dirty.

+ Subtle sheen - Satin paint gives walls and woodwork a nice subtle shine that can brighten up a room.

- More reflective - Satin paint tends to show up imperfections on your walls more than matt paint.

- Harder to touch up - It's a bit trickier to touch up - you might notice a difference between the old and new paint.

Brandon Walker, construction manager at ASAP Restoration adds that satin paint, “Is less shiny than gloss,” so it's no good if you are looking for a high sheen. Plus, “It dirties faster than a gloss finish does, but slower than matt paint.” Something to take into consideration when choosing a paint finish.

The pros and cons of matt paint?

What are the benefits of a very low sheen finish? Plus, what paint projects are they not so good for. Jay Sanders, contractor at Maryland Contractors shares his knowledge. 

+ Hides imperfections - Matt paints are great at hiding imperfections as they reflect less light. They conceal surface flaws like bumps and cracks, helping to provide a smooth finish.

+ Easy to touch up - Touch-ups with existing matt paint are easy as they blend effectively. Thus, making its maintenance easy.

- Less Durable - Matt paint is more prone to scuffing and staining, which means it's not recommended for high-traffic areas such as hallways.

- Not easy to clean - Cleaning matt paint can be challenging! It is not as durable as satin paint and scrubbing and cleaning will soon cause damage to a finish. 

Try these satin and matt paints on your next project 

FAQs

Is satin or matt paint best used on walls? 

“For interior walls, it really depends on what you're after. Satin is great for kitchens and bathrooms because it stands up to moisture better and you can wipe it down quite easily,” suggests Hussain. “But if your walls aren't in a great condition, matt might be your best bet to hide the flaws. Plus, a lot of people just like the look of matte on walls – it's got that classy vibe.”

But where in the home is matt paint best used? “Matt is preferable where a subtle look is desired like bedrooms, dining rooms, and living rooms,” suggests Sanders.  

Is matt paint used on woodwork? 

Matt paint is rarely seen on woodwork around the home, here Hussain explains why. “For woodwork like doors and skirting boards, matt isn't usually the go-to. Most people prefer satin or semi-gloss for woodwork because it's more durable and easier to clean. Gloss used to be really popular but it's a bit out of fashion now - satin's the middle ground.”

Walker adds that, “It’s best to use a higher sheen for doors and skirting boards because it is a stronger finish and these areas experience a lot of frequent and abrasive activity.”

But in what scenario would you use matt paint on woodwork? “Trim or coving as these pieces won’t get touched by anything due to their location” shares Walker. “And they will also not be able to collect dust and grime as easily in that location.” But he suggests, “There are still better finish options even for ceiling woodwork”

If you are looking for a matt finish on woodwork there are choices. A popular option is to use the same matt emulsion colour used on the walls on the woodwork to create a single colour paint scheme. To protect the woodwork finish with a clear matt varnish like this Ronseal Interior Varnish Clear Matt from Amazon.  

Satin and matt paints are not the only options when painting walls, ceilings and wood. If you want something with a higher sheen then check the differences between satin vs gloss. Alternatively, for less of a sheen then compare eggshell vs satin and find out What is vinyl matt paint and see where you can use it.  

If you’re giving your hallway, lounge, bedroom – or any other room in your home – a makeover, sanding walls is going to be part of the process. It may be a quick job if the walls are reasonably new or prepped previously. Or, it may take a lot longer than you hope. 

But it's crucial that you get your preparation right, and you need to make sure that any sanding is done properly. The better the prep, the better the finish. It will improve adhesion for paint and wallpaper and will help get rid of imperfections to produce a smooth-painted finish that will last for years.  

Sanding walls: Is it necessary before painting?

Yes. “When it comes to ensuring that your paint project is a success, there is no more important place to start than room preparation,” shares Helen Shaw, director of marketing (international) at Benjamin Moore.

Whether you are painting newly plastered walls or previously painted walls, sanding before adding any paint is always a good idea. “While sanding is not required for every paint project,” suggests Shaw, “Rough spots on walls, whether they have been previously painted or not, need to be sanded before they are painted to ensure the paint goes on smoothly.” 

A clean and free from dirt, dust and grease sanded surface gives better adhesion for the next coat of paint. “Generally, using sandpaper or a sanding block to dull any uneven surfaces will do the job,” shares Helen, “Wipe away loose dust with a damp cloth and let dry thoroughly.”

But, it’s not just the practical purpose of sanding a wall that will provide benefits in the long run. It will also help with the aesthetic appeal of the wall. It will get rid of any ridges or dried runs to give a smooth surface to paint onto. Which combined with a new coat of paint will give a like-new appearance to your walls.  

Sanding walls: What tools will I need?

There is the obvious that you’ll need when sanding a wall – sandpaper. But, how do you use the sandpaper to get a good finish? There’s a few methods you can use which will need different tools to get the job done.

Sanding manually offers several different options. You can take a simple approach and use a sanding block or a scrap piece of wood to wrap the sandpaper around. For a quicker and more efficient method the best hand sanders are a cost effective solution. They give you good grip and a wider flat surface to work with. But you will still need to get up a ladder or stand on a platform to reach the top of a wall. A specialist pole sander will help make this much easier and have a greater reach.

If you don’t fancy the manual approach you can invest in a power sander. You can use a hand sander, ideally one with a square pad to help get into corners, or a specialist dry wall sander. These have larger pads to help get a more even finish. These will get the job done much quicker, but will also kick up a lot of dust, so make sure to connect a dust bag, or connect to a vacuum.   

Try these tools for sanding walls 

What grit sandpaper should I use to sand walls and why?

“Smoothing walls that have been previously painted with a gloss or high-gloss paint is essential,” explains Shaw. “For surfaces that have been previously painted with water-based paint, sand with a fine-grit sandpaper grade.” A 180 grit sandpaper is a good choice for most walls. This will gently remove any excess paint and leave a smooth surface to work with. “For oil-based paint, a medium-grit sandpaper (100- to 150-grit) should be used. Again, wipe away any debris and allow to dry completely.” 

Using a medium or coarse grade sandpaper will remove paint and debris quicker, but it will also leave a rougher surface that may show through even after painting. Only use if your walls have a large buildup of paint, or the paint has been poorly applied leaving a lot of ridges and runs. But only use it to get rid of the worst of it. Then switch to a fine sandpaper to get a smooth surface ready to work on. 

How to sand walls ready for painting

Before you start sanding walls make sure that you have all your tools ready. Wear protective gear (goggles and face mask) if you are going to create a lot of dust and lay down dust sheets to keep the floor clean.  

1. Prep the area 

Before sanding a wall you need to get rid of any flaking paint, grease spots and ensure that it is clean. Use a paint scraper to get rid of any loose or flaking paint and sugar soap to degrease the wall. 

Leave to dry and then use an all-purpose filler like this Ronseal Smooth Finish Multi-Purpose Interior Wall Filler from Amazon, or a patching plaster. Apply and smooth out with a filling knife and leave to dry ready for sanding.  

2. Sand the wall 

Once the wall has been prepped, it's time to get to the crux of the matter. Get your chosen sanding tool and sandpaper and start sanding. Start at the top of the wall and work across and down. Concentrate on areas that are worse than others and then go back and do the whole wall to get an even finish. 

Now brush down the wall and check that you have a smooth even surface. The best way is to check by eye and then run your hand/fingers across the wall. Go back and sand any high/rough spots if needed.

3. Clean up 

To finish, brush down the wall with a stiff hand brush, empty any dust sheets and sweep/vacuum up any remaining dust. Once the area is free from dust, wipe down the wall with a damp cloth and leave to dry.  

FAQs

What can happen if you don’t sand walls before painting? 

If you don’t clean, prep and sand walls before painting or wallpapering you are much more likely to end up with a poor paint job or lifting wallpaper. “Painting over cracked paint is a bad idea; it is important to remove any flakes from the surface via sanding or scraping before repainting.” shares Shaw. 

If you do paint or wallpaper over ill-prepared surfaces it may look good initially, but it won’t last as long as it would on a correctly-prepared surface. The paint will start to flake and bubble sooner than it should, meaning you will need to repaint sooner, costing you money and time.   

Can I sand painted wallpaper? 

This will depend very much on the wallpaper you have on the wall or ceiling. If you have a heavily embossed wallpaper you will struggle to get a smooth finish on all areas of the wallpaper. But you can sand down any high points with a fine grit sandpaper. If you have time or inclination you can use wire wool to get into any crevices. 

If you have a smooth wallpaper, such as painted lining paper a fine grade sandpaper will help prepare the surface ready for the next stage. 

When it comes to sanding there’s plenty of tools to choose from and which type of sander you choose can make a difference. If you’re using an orbital sander make sure to check out our how to use an orbital sander guide to avoid making common mistakes. If prepping woodwork at the same time as walls check out our Sanding doors and Sanding skirting boards guides to get the great finish all round in a room. 

Children can bring our hearts joy and fill a home with laughter – but let’s not forget they can be fussy, careless, and incredibly messy.

These childhood foibles must be taken into account when choosing the right paint for their bedrooms and parents should balance safety, looks, and durability.

We spoke to Jennifer Jones, an interiors expert and founder of Jennifer Jones Styling, a UK-wide collective of stylists who are all mums, and Simeon Simeonov, a handyman coordinator and painting expert at Fantastic Services, for their expertise on paint for children’s bedroom design.

Shop suitable paint for children’s rooms

Choosing the best type of paint for children's rooms

Jennifer says the most important thing to bear in mind when choosing paint for your child’s room is its durability as kids have a habit of marking fresh new walls instantly.

She said: “You want something that will withstand all the sticky fingers and toy throwing! We always recommend wipeable paint formulas to banish smears and smudges.

“There are a lot of good quality paints that are low VOC (volatile organic compounds) and low odour for improved indoor air quality that are safe for children.”

She says parents should also have a clear image of what they want the room to be, for example, do you want it to be a fun playing space or purely for sleep?

Simeon added: “High-quality paints that resist stains will maintain their appearance longer and withstand the rigours of active child's play. Bright, cheerful colours can stimulate creativity and positivity and consider colours that can adapt to the child’s changing preferences as they grow.”

“That will you decide whether to choose peaceful colours that create a sense of calm or vibrant colours that spark the imagination, Jennifer adds. “We also recommend using high quality paints with a high pigment, so you don’t have to paint too many coats.”

What are the different types of paint for children's rooms?

Chalkboard

Jennifer says: “Chalkboard and blackboard paint (easily found on Amazon) are great for kids as these give them something to do, but be clear that they can only draw on that particular surface, otherwise you might find lots of doodling throughout the house.

“You can also get these in different colours so it doesn’t have to become an all-black wall and it doesn’t have to be the whole wall, you can create a border around a small section if you wish – but remember your children will grow taller to create a section they can stand and draw for a few years to come.”

Glitter glaze

Glitter glaze has iridescent qualities that create prismatic reflections and add a subtle touch of shimmer to interior walls.

Craig & Rose's Artisan range includes the Starlight Sliver Glitter Glaze, which recreates the night sky when painted on the ceiling. You can buy Starlight Silver topcoat on B&Qand Craig & Rose's glitter glaze in gold sparkle on Amazon.

Spray cork

Sprayed cork wall coatings, like SprayCork from CorkSol, offer numerous benefits that directly contribute to kids' health, safety, and comfort.

A primary benefit is that cork has breathable properties, which means it can regulate moisture levels effectively. Proper moisture regulation prevents dampness, which is a common cause of mould growth.

Additionally, this breathability helps to create a more comfortable living environment by maintaining optimal humidity levels. Cork is an excellent insulator, keeping rooms warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. For children, a stable and comfortable temperature is vital for quality sleep and overall well- being, Corksol adds.

Glow in the dark

You can also incorporate glow in the dark colours if you want to add interest to the room without overstimulating the child.

Glow in the dark paint, which you can buy on Amazon, is also ideal for creating stunning murals or for highlighting features.

Magnetic paint

Simeon says: “Magnetic paint (which can be found at B&Q) contains iron dust, making the walls magnetic. It can be paired with chalkboard paint for a dual-purpose wall that can hold magnets and be drawn on.

"Washable paints are specifically designed to withstand frequent washing and scrubbing, making them ideal for high-traffic areas like children's rooms.

FAQs

What is the best paint finish for a kid’s room?

The best finish is either satin or eggshell – these are both pretty durable but also aren’t too glossy and balance durability with ease of cleaning.

They have a slight sheen that makes them more resistant to scrubbing compared to flat finishes.

Is it safe to paint a nursery?

If you choose low-VOC and non-toxic paints, it is safe to paint a nursery. Just ensure good ventilation during and after painting – plus a safe period of time before letting your little one sleep in the room again.

When painting a nursery keep in mind that little ones need a calm environment, so opt for pastel colours or earthy tones, that will bring a sense of calm to the space which will help them sleep. Also, consider black out blinds and curtains for optimal sleep.

How long to wait until children can sleep in a newly painted room?

It's generally recommended that children wait at least 2-3 days before sleeping in a freshly painted room, and this time allows the paint to cure and the fumes to dissipate.

Always ensure the room is well-ventilated during and after painting to speed up the curing process and reduce exposure to any residual fumes.

A final note from Emma Bestley, co-founder of paint brand YesColours: “Start small with the introduction of colour – in case your child gradually starts to dislike a colour or feels agitated by a colour.

“Maybe just accessories like cushions and bed linens in some colours and see what they are drawn to and what makes them happy.

"Involve your child so they can communicate their emotions and feelings and be part of the decision making.”

Oil vs water-based paint, which should you use for your next paint project? It’s a common conundrum and one that doesn’t have a straightforward solution. There’s a few factors you need to consider to ensure that you are making the right choice. 

What surfaces are you painting? Are you painting a wall, or wood? Are you painting indoors or outdoors? Are you using paint brushes or rollers? Do you want a finish like the professionals? Do you want a more eco-friendly option? You’ll find the answers in this guide to help you make the right choice. 

Oil vs water based paint: What’s the difference?

Paint is made up of a combination of components including pigments and binders. Pigment is what helps determine the colour of a chosen paint while binders are the element that helps hold the pigment in the liquid that the paint predominantly consists of. 

In residential paints used around the home that liquid is water for water based paints and oil for oil based paints. As you might expect water is the main component for water-based paints and oil (often linseed oil) is the main component in oil based paints. Oil-based paints will typically include a mineral turpentine to help thin the paint and ensure a smooth flow when being applied. 

Pros and cons of water-based paints

Water-based paints are the popular choice, especially for DIYers as they are more convenient to use. Here we list the plus and minus points. 

+ Dries quicker Water-based paint contains a lot of water which evaporates much faster than oil-based paint. Typically drying times for water-based paints range from 30 mins to a couple of hours.

+ Easier to clean There’s no need for anything other than water from the tap to clean paintbrushes and rollers. You can clean brushes and rollers much quicker and they won’t leave any hard to remove paint residue on your hands or surrounding areas.

+ Smell less Water-based paints don’t contain the same chemicals, such as thinner, which causes the strong odour associated with oil-based paints. Leading to a much less pungent smell when painting. 

+ Stays white longer The lack of certain chemicals in water-based paints means that the paint will stay white for longer as they are not affected by UV rays and heat as much as oil-based paints.  

+ Eco-friendly Water-based paints contain less VOC’s (more of this later) which are harmful to the environment.   

- Cures slowly Water-based paints dry quicker than oil-based paints, but typically take longer to fully cure (harden). This can leave them more susceptible to being knocked and chipped.

- Lower sheen For high gloss finishes that have a high sheen you typically need an oil based paint. The difference between the oil based and water-based gloss is subtle, but if you are working with high quality specialist finishes go for an oil-based gloss. 

Pros and cons of oil-based paints

Oil-based paints are more commonly used by trades as they offer a stronger finish, but you often have to pay a little extra

+ Easier to work with Oil-based paints contains a thinner to give the paint a a smooth flow that makes it easier to apply and its longer drying times mean you see less brush strokes in the finish. 

+ Better durability The make-up of oil-based paint means that they harden to a higher level than water based paint. This gives them a more durable finish that is less susceptible to chipping and will stay looking good for longer.

+ Higher sheen Oil-based paint produces a higher sheen than its water based counterpart thanks to the natural elements found in oil.  

- Longer drying time The drying times for oil -based paint is much longer than water-based paints. It is typically touch dry in 4-6 hours and ready to recoat in 16-24 hours. So make sure to plan ahead on a project.

- Harder to clean A specialist brush cleaner or White Spirit is needed to clean paintbrush and rollers. This makes the process less convenient, more expensive and less environmentally-friendly. 

- Yellowing Oil-based paints are more prone to yellowing thanks to the oxidation process which is affected by heat. This is especially noticeable in white paints.

- Not so eco-friendly Oil-based paints contain a higher level of VOCs, which equates to more toxic chemicals in the paint, which are not good for the environment. So they need to be disposed of more carefully. 

Try these top quality paints and cleaner

What is the best paint for wood and walls?

What is the paint best for wood? 

Should you use oil-based or water-based paint on wood? It’s not that simple. “Choosing the best paint for wood can depend on several factors,” Michael Rolland, Managing Director at The Paint Shed explains. “It includes whether you are working with interiors or exteriors, the desired durability, finish, and ease of application.”

Both have their pros and cons, shares Rolland, “Oil-based formulas are usually water-repellent, protective against UV rays, and have antifungal formulas.” This makes them ideal for exterior projects. “High-quality oil-based paints are easy to apply, hide imperfections easily, and are long-lasting,” continues Michael. 

But there are downsides, “Oil based paints regularly take longer to dry and have higher levels of VOCs during the drying and curing process,” states Rolland. “Which requires additional ventilation to minimise the scent throughout your home”

“Water-based paints have been developed to be increasingly durable”, shares Michael, “Which makes them great for projects based on interior and exterior wood.”

“Some quality water-based paints can be used for both interior or exterior projects”. Rolland recommends Zinsser’s Water Based Exterior Satin. “It is a great option due to being low maintenance, durable, self-priming, and offering high levels of resistance to weather.” 

What is the best paint for walls? 

"Water-based paints are most recommended for interior walls” reveals Rolland. “This is due to their ease of application, fast drying times, and the fact that they emit fewer harmful fumes, making them safer for indoor use.” He continues, “Quality water-based paint formulas provide excellent durability and a variety of finishes, making them suitable for almost any interior walls.”

But which paint should you use? “Advancements in water-based paints, particularly high-quality acrylics, have made them durable and easy to maintain,” continues Rolland. “For example, Farrow and Ball’s Modern Emulsion and Benjamin Moore’s Ultra Spec Scuff X, despite being water-based, are suitable for both high-traffic commercial and domestic settings. The formulas are washable, scuff-proof, and low maintenance making them ideal for interior walls that face wear and tear.” 

FAQs

What are VOCs? 

VOCs, or Volatile Organic Compounds are chemicals (typically man-made) that are used and produced in the manufacture of paint. These give paint its distinct odour and can have short and long term health effects. But, don’t panic, they are regulated and can be dispersed by opening a window or door if painting indoors.

Oil-based paints typically have higher VOCs than water-based paints because they have more solvents and chemicals in them. The higher the VOC level the more damage they can do to the environment. So, oil-based paints especially, need to be disposed of correctly. Ideally try to use or donate any leftover paint, but if you can't check with your local recycling centre for guidance. Do not put paint down the sink.

As an example, Dulux Trade Satinwood (which is oil-based) has a high VOC content which is 25-50%. It states on the tin ‘This product contains max. 300g/l VOC’, so around 30%. Dulux Trade Quick Drying Satinwood (which is water-based) has medium VOC content which means it contains 8 – 24.99%. Low VOC paints contain 0.30 – 7.99% VOC content.

Try to look for paints with Low VOCs, which are almost always water-based, as they are better for you and the environment. 

Can you paint over water based paint with oil based paint? 

Yes. And you can do the opposite, use water-based paint to paint over an oil-based paint. It is common to use an oil-based paint when painting over mould or damp to create a seal that will help stop any moisture or mould seeping through to the top layer of paint, which is typically a water-based paint such as emulsion.

Ideally when painting over an oil-based paint with a water based paint, try to avoid one with a high sheen like gloss. This doesn’t provide good adhesion for most water based paints. If you are looking to add a water-based paint over an oil-based gloss, for example when painting skirting boards, get rid of the sheen with a fine grit sandpaper and add a water-based undercoat and top coat.  

 When working on paint projects such as painting a panel door, painting wood and painting floorboards make sure that you get the right paint to do the job properly. 

Painting over grease stains is one way to get rid of ugly and annoying marks on your walls and wood. But it is not as simple getting out a tin of emulsion and adding a new coat of paint. This won’t solve the problem, you will simply be spending more time and money trying to hide any stains.

When painting a wall, wood or even kitchen cabinets, you need to get your preparation right before you can even think about adding a coat of paint. Here we reveal the different methods to help get rid of grease stains and the paint you’ll need to stop them from reappearing any time soon.  

Try these tools to paint over grease stains

Painting over grease stains: A step-by-step guide

Before you start, make sure to gather what you need to do the job. A sponge, fine grit sandpaper, degreasing solution (more on this later), paint and painting tools. I’d also recommend that you lay down dust sheets like these ARVO 3 Pack Extra Large Plastic Dust Sheets from Amazon and cover furniture to protect it. 

If working near any electric sockets/switches turn them off and cover with plastic bags and tape to stop any liquid seeping in. 

1. Remove the grease stain 

The first step is to remove as much of the grease stain as possible. Ideally you want to get rid of it completely, but this can be difficult on some surfaces. Start by applying your chosen degreasing solution and a sponge on the stain. Dab and scrub gently on delicate surfaces until the stain has gone. 

For more robust surfaces such as painted wood, you can use a green scrubber pad if needed. Wash down with clean water and a cloth and leave to dry. Check the area and clean again if needed – typically a gentle sponging should be sufficient. 

2. Sand the surface 

Make sure that the surface is dry, especially if working on a more delicate surface like wallpaper. Get a fine sandpaper grade – 240 grit is a good choice for most surfaces and gently rub done the area that you have cleaned until smooth. 

Go slightly beyond where the stain was and blend with the grease free area. Now get a moist cloth and wipe the area to get rid of any dust and leave to dry. 

3. Apply primer 

To make sure that any dormant or remaining grease doesn’t bleed through any paint you apply, you need to seal the stain with suitable paint. If covering stains on walls, kitchen cabinets or similar, use a 4-inch mini roller for small patches and a larger 9-inch roller for larger areas. 

Apply a thin coat and blend the edges. For areas where a roller won’t work, i.e. decorate trim, skirting board, use a decent 3-4 inch paint brush, and don’t forget to blend the edges. Leave to dry, give the surface a very quick rub down, clean and leave to dry and apply a second coat and leave to dry for at least 24 hours.

The surface will now be ready to paint. Check out our painting a wall with a roller guide to get some essential tips on how to get a quick smart-looking finish. 

FAQs

What is the best paint to use to hide stains? 

A stain blocking sealer/primer is the ideal choice for dealing with grease stains, whatever surface you are working on. A popular choice is Zinsser’s Cover Stain – available from Amazon. This is an all-purpose stain killing paint that is suitable for most surfaces in the home including plaster, masonry, wood and wallpaper and is recoatable in around two hours. An alternative is Fiddes Full Stop which is a white stain block primer. 

A cheaper and often as effective solution is to use an oil-based paint that you may already have. An oil-based undercoat with a low sheen, like this Dulux Trade Brilliant White Undercoat from B&Q,  is a better choice than one with a high gloss finish as paint such as emulsion doesn’t adhere as well to these types of finishes.

What do you use to degrease before painting? 

There are a few store bought options and homemade remedies that will work well across most surfaces. Sugar soap and washing up liquid are good all round options for removing grease stains from most surfaces including walls, wood, wallpaper, kitchen cabinets and tiles.

Homemade remedies include adding a half a cup of white vinegar to a bucket of warm water. A variation on this is to add in a little less baking soda and mix. Another option is to make a thick paste with cornflour and water and work it into the stain with your fingers. Leave for a couple of minutes and wipe off with a moist cloth. 

Can I paint over grease stains with emulsion? 

No. Emulsion paints are water-based and will not cover grease stains. After the emulsion dries, you might not notice the old stain immediately, but it won't be long before it seeps through the emulsion and you see it again. Adding another coat of emulsion will hide it for a while, but it won’t be long before it reappears. 

What happens if you paint straight over grease stains? 

Water-based emulsions will stain and discolour as the grease from the stain seeps through and the paint won’t adhere to the surface as well as it should, causing it to flake and bubble. Even when using a specialist stain blocking paint to cover the stain it is still advisable to clean as best as you can to improve adhesion. 

Grease stains are often found in kitchens. Check out our 17 painted kitchen cabinet ideas, Painting kitchen cabinets, and the Best Kitchen Cabinet Paints guides to help restore your kitchen back to its best.  

Painting over dark colours in your home isn’t as simple as slapping on another coat of paint. If you don’t prepare correctly and invest in the right paint you will be adding a lot more layers than you want. 

When painting a wall, window, or door covered in a dark colour, it needs to be prepared correctly. You will be adding at least three coats of paint, and if your prep is poor it won’t be long before it's bubbling and flaking. Then you need to ensure that you have the right paint to hide the dark colour you no longer want.

Here we run through how to prep and paint your surfaces, recommend the best paints for the job and offer some alternative solutions.  

The best paint to use for painting over dark colours

When painting over dark colours, it's best to use a general purpose primer, or a specialist paint. What you use will depend on what surface you are painting over. 

Plaster, wallpaper or wood are the common surfaces that will be covered. For plaster and wallpaper Zinsser Cover Stain is a good all-round option. If covering painted woodwork a good quality primer/undercoat will do the job.  

Step-by-step guide to painting over dark colours

Gather your tools and paint and make sure that you have given yourself at least a couple of hours to add the first coat.  

1. Prep area and surface 

Start off by preparing the surface to ensure that it is smooth and provides good adhesion. Remove any loose paint with a paint scraper, fill any holes with an all-purpose filler, leave to dry and rub down with a fine sandpaper grade – 180 grit is good. 

Brush down the wall, vacuum up any loose dust, and wipe down the wall with a damp cloth to help ensure no dust gets in the paint and you get a smooth finish. 

2. Add coat of primer 

Ensure the surface is dry and add a coat of white primer. Start in a top corner – if painting a wall – with a two- or three-inch paint brush and work your way across to the opposite corner. I like to use Harris brushes, and this set of Harris Trade brushes from B&Q is a good option for lots of different paint projects. 

Now paint both corners – top to bottom – and finish along the skirting board to create a border.

Now get a 9-inch roller (try this Harris paint roller set from Amazon) and use a V/W rolling action to add the primer. Don’t forget to blend in the painted border with the main wall paint and go over the wall lightly with the roller to get rid of any edges/ridges caused by the roller edges. 

Leave to dry and see how well the dark colour is covered. If needed, add a second primer coat. 

3. Apply top coats 

Make sure that the primer coat is completely dry as per the manufacturer’s recommendations. If there are any ridges or runs, get rid of them with a light sanding. Don’t forget to wipe down the wall to get rid of dust. When dry, apply the emulsion in the same way you applied the primer.

If you applied the primer correctly you should only need two coats of emulsion to cover the wall. Check when the second coat of emulsion is completely dry and add a third if needed. 

Alternative methods for covering dark colours on walls

One of the issues when covering a dark colour with a light one is that you will need at least three or four coats of paint for an effective finish. These will be added to the previous layers of paint, meaning you could easily have six or seven layers of paint on a surface. The more paint applied to a surface the more issues can arise. That’s why it’s important to prepare well.

If the walls have been painted directly onto plaster you can consider stripping paint off the wall. This will leave you with a clean, smooth, paint-free wall that you can repaint. Plus, it will get rid of any uneven build-up of paint and ensure good adhesion for the new paint.

For a quicker cover up you can put up lining paper and paint with a couple of coats of emulsion as usual. If you have painted wallpaper you can consider removing the wallpaper and painting the wall or adding new wallpaper ready to paint.  

FAQs

Can I paint dark stained wood white? 

Learning how to paint over dark colours correctly isn't just restricted to walls and ceilings. If you have dark coloured or stained woodwork you simply need to prep the surface correctly to get a good finish with a light coloured paint. 

Woodwork with a dark colour can be taken back to bare wood by stripping off the paint with a heat gun to ensure a strong good looking finish. Start with a good quality primer and undercoat and finish with a top coat of your choice. Personally, I’m a big fan of a satin finish, this is subtle enough to help hide imperfections, is durable and wipeable and fits well with most decor.

To cover dark stained wood you first need to give the woodwork a good rub down with a fine sandpaper grade. Clean up any dust and wipe down the woodwork with a moist cloth to get rid of any remaining dust. Then add a stain blocking primer like Zinsser B.I.N primer/sealer or Zinserr Cover Stain, available from Amazon. This will create a barrier to stop the stain coming through. Finish with an undercoat (if needed) and top coat. 

Can I use an undercoat to cover dark colours on walls? 

Yes. There are combination paints that are primers and undercoats that can be used to cover walls and plaster. A good example is Crown Contract Quick Dry Primer Undercoat, available from Amazon.

Can you use a standard undercoat? Yes you can, but if you are looking to get a good finish, you are better off getting a paint specifically tailored for the job. This will save you time and money in the long run.  

If you’ve got dark woodwork you want covering then it's worth learning how to paint skirting boards correctly as well as discovering the best ways to paint a panel door to get a good finish. 

Alternatively, you can strip paint off wood and start afresh. 

Painting over lime plaster walls and surfaces is something you could well be thinking about if you’ve got lime plaster in your home. It’s a traditional wall finish that differs from the more commonly used gypsum plasters found in newer homes. It’s eco-friendly, can combat damp and acts as a natural dehumidifier. 

But, you’ll need to make sure that your prepping and painting it the right way. Cut corners or choose the wrong paint and you’ll be dealing with unwanted issues with your lime plaster and getting ready for a repaint in no time.  

Here we tell you how to prep lime plaster, what paint to use and answer some commonly asked questions. 

Painting over lime plaster: Should you do it?

Yes. You can paint over new and old lime plaster but there are a few considerations that you need to take into account. The process is similar to painting new plaster, but there are a few subtle differences that need to be followed to make sure that your new paint job stays looking good.

Lime plaster differs from more commonly used gypsum/cement plasters found in most homes, especially newer homes. Lime plaster has a different drying process to gypsum and cement, which means it takes a lot longer to dry and cure. 

How long will depend on what type of lime plaster you use but as a general guideline expect to leave it for at least four weeks to ensure that it is fully cured. It may take even longer depending on the thickness and environmental conditions. However, once the plaster is ready you need to use a suitable ‘breathable’ paint to ensure that moisture doesn’t get trapped in the plaster causing issues.

What is the best paint for lime plaster?

"When it comes to painting lime plaster, there's no substitute for the benefits of clay-based paint.” explains Bailey Oates, Colour Expert at Earthborn. “Unlike other types of paint, clay-based paint is designed to breathe, which means it allows moisture to escape from the wall, preventing damage and ensuring a long-lasting finish. Additionally, lime plaster doesn't require primer, which simplifies the painting process.”

They finish by sharing, “Claypaint offers exceptional ultra-matt coverage that is fully compatible with lime plaster, resulting in a luxurious finish that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing."

It is worth noting that the larger paint manufacturers like Dulux, rarely make paint for lime plaster. Smaller paint producers such as Farrow & Ball and Little Greene have specialist paint specifically designed for lime plaster. 

How do you prep and repair lime plaster for painting?

Like all plastered walls the surface needs to be clean and free from dirt, grime, grease and dust. The first step is to brush down a wall to get rid of dust, cobwebs and dirt. If needed, wash down the wall with a wet sponge and leave to dry. For more stubborn marks and unwanted ridges use a fine sandpaper, or a sandpaper sponge to remove.

If the plaster has any hairline cracks or small holes you can use a lime putty or an interior all-purpose filler to fill. For larger repairs, remove loose plaster and reapply the plaster. Ideally use the same type of lime plaster to avoid cracking issues.

If the plaster is flaky or powdery and needs stabilising before painting you can use a primer like this Earthborn Silicate Primer from Amazon, which is suitable for surfaces including lime plaster and allows walls to breathe. 

Do I need to mist coat lime plaster?

A mist coat is the first coat of paint that goes onto new plaster and provides a base and better adhesion for the following coats of paint. It is a watered down version of the paint that you are going to use on your lime plaster. Before you apply a mist coat you need to make sure that the plaster is fully dried and cured.

Get a paint kettle or bucket to mix the mist coat. Use a ratio of eight parts paint and two parts water – or a seven parts paint and three parts water mix, both are suitable for a mist coat. Before applying the mist coat, moisten the surface. Use a water spray bottle with a mist spray or use a paintbrush and flick clean water onto the surface.

To finish, apply the mist coat with a roller and/or paintbrush and leave to dry for at least a couple of hours. Ideally leave for longer before adding a full strength coat of paint. 

Painting over lime plaster FAQs

Can I use emulsion paint on lime plaster? 

Yes and no. Standard everyday emulsion paint typically contains vinyl or plastic that will seal the lime plaster and trap any moisture behind the paint, which will lead to issues further down the line.  

However, there are specialist emulsion paints that are suitable for lime plaster such as Edward Bulmer natural emulsion, which is free of plastic and microplastics which means a film won't form on a wall allowing the surface to breathe. Or Mylands Matt Emulsion which is breathable and infused with real crushed Carrara marble to give it texture.

What is limewash paint? 

Limewash paint is a popular choice for lime plaster because it is breathable, environmentally-friendly (contains no VOCs), non-toxic, almost odourless and is mould resistant. 

It uses a different formula to standard paint and doesn’t cover a surface like an everyday paint. It is more translucent which means that when applied it isn't a solid colour and gives off a more subtle finish. 

What happens if you paint lime plaster too soon? 

If lime plaster is not fully dried and cured before you paint it can lead to adhesion problems. Moisture will get trapped behind the paint and lead to bubbling and flaking. Using the wrong paint will also produce a similar problem. The paint won't adhere as well and will start to lift off the surface and will need to be repainted. 

With the right prep and paint you need to know the right techniques to get the best finish on your lime plaster. Check out the following guides to help make it happen. How Much Paint do I Need?, Painting a wall and How to paint a room. 

Prince Andrew is reportedly facing challenges in maintaining the Royal Lodge, with claims he is falling behind on necessary renovations. 

The Duke of York, currently residing at the Royal Lodge in Windsor with his ex-wife Sarah, Duchess of York, is required to paint the house every five years, adding to his growing list of responsibilities and pressures.

However, with the renovations remaining incomplete, sources close to King Charles have suggested Prince Andrew could be "forced" to move from the Royal Lodge if he cannot afford the upkeep.

What is Prince Andrew's lease agreement?

Prince Andrew’s 75-year lease agreement with the Crown Estate requires him to “repair, renew, uphold, clean and keep in repair and, where necessary, rebuild” the home. 

The agreement specifies that the walls of the 30-bedroom property must be repainted every five years “with two coats of paint” from 2008 onwards. 

Additionally, inside the house, the Duke is obligated to “paint with at least two coats of paint and to paper, polish, decorate and otherwise appropriately treat” every seven years, starting from 2010.

Prince Andrew a year behind on renovations

Sources close to the matter have highlighted that the ongoing upkeep of the historic estate is proving to be a significant burden. 

The painting of the Royal Lodge was meant to completed last year but has still not been done.

The Duke of York's financial difficulties have been well-documented, and the mounting costs of maintaining such a large property are only exacerbating his situation.

As the public scrutinises his every move, the pressure to keep the Royal Lodge in top condition adds another layer to his ongoing struggles.

King Charles could 'force' Andrew to leave

Prince Andrew's future at the Royal Lodge is uncertain as King Charles signals a halt to funding his brother's lifestyle at the 93-acre property. 

The Royal Lodge, previously home to the Queen Mother, has become a contentious issue due to Prince Andrew's insistence on staying despite financial constraints. 

Additionally, the King's financial support for the Duke's £3 million-per-year security bill and over £1 million annual allowance is now in question with it being suggested he move into the much smaller, and easy to manage Frogmore Cottage, which he has refused.

A source close to the King reportedly revealed to The Times: “Everyone is mindful of his wellbeing and has his best interests at heart, but there are limits of patience and tolerance.” 

Another source apparently suggested that Prince Andrew's departure from the Royal Lodge could happen “with grace and dignity or it can be forced upon him.”

We have approached Buckingham Palace for comment but have yet to receive a response.

If you're planning to paint your home’s exterior, experts are warning that pollen can affect the quality of your paint job. 

Although invisible to the naked eye, pollen can lead to a patchy, flaky finish when painting a house, according to DIY experts at both Ronseal and Toolstation.

"High pollen levels can stick to wet paint, causing an imperfect finish and potential flaking. Pollen can also stain the paint, especially if you’re using bright or light colours," explains Cara Yates, senior category manager at Toolstation.

Keep an eye on pollen counts

Cara Yates recommends checking the pollen forecast before starting your exterior painting project to reduce any chance of potential problems.

"Pollen levels peak from March to September, which is also the ideal time for exterior painting," she explains. 

"Since exterior paint takes 6-24 hours to dry, try to schedule your painting when pollen counts are low," she adds.

Choose mild, windless days to paint

Yates adds that painting during windy, warm days can have a significant effect on the quality of your home's paint job too.

She states: “High winds and warm temperatures play a key part in dispersing pollen from the ground which could then end up interfering with any wet paint on the exterior walls of your home. 

“Choosing a cooler day with lower wind forecasts will help prevent a patchy appearance whilst ensuring a quality long-lasting finish.”

Clean walls thoroughly before painting

Jimmy Englezos, Senior Brand Manager from Ronseal, emphasises the importance of preparing your walls before painting. 

"Regardless of how good your paint is, it can only adhere properly to a clean surface," he says. "Debris, dirt, or pollen on the wall will cause the paint to flake and look patchy."

Englezos advises cleaning exterior walls with warm, soapy water or sugar soap. "Make sure to remove any loose or flaky paint before applying a new coat. Once the surface is clean, allow it to dry completely before painting."

Avoid high pollen periods when possible, he adds, as a little planning can save time and effort, giving you the best possible results for your investment.

While knowing how to paint a room is essential, if the variety of paint finishes on offer has left you wondering what is vinyl matt paint, we're here to help. After all, as with any DIY project, getting the right end result is not just about skill and application, but also about using the correct products that both look good and that last.

While matt paints are celebrated for their ability to hide imperfections on surfaces, what you may not realise is that not all matts are equal – and we're not just talking about the brand of paint. It also about the difference between trade and retail products.

We asked Homebuilding's DIY expert, Steve Jenkins to share his expert knowledge to explain what is vinyl matt paint.

Why vinyl matt isn't the same as matt paint

Although matt paints are one of the most prolific paint trends of recent years, the matt paint you may admire in retail colour charts isn't always as strong as you imagine. 

"Vinyl matt paint has a different formula to standard matt paint which means that it is more durable than standard matt paint," says Steve Jenkins, Homebuilding's DIY expert.

"The larger paint manufacturers typically make two versions of matt paint, one for trade – which is the vinyl matt – and one for the consumer, which is typically just matt. I recommend the trade version every time." 

So if you're heading to buy some paint, make sure it says trade on the label or you could be getting less than you bargained for.

What is vinyl matt paint?

"Vinyl matt paint is typically a water based emulsion paint that has a matt finish," says Steve Jenkins. "This means it is a very low sheen paint which has a less reflective surface."

Compared to other types of paint in the emulsion family, such as satin and silk, it's the least reflective of them all with the end result described as 'flat', making matt the preferred choice if you're looking for no shine or reflection at all.

And while all matt paint offers the same non-reflective finish, vinyl matt paint has a resin added to it which makes it more hard-wearing – thereby giving it better longevity once it's applied.

Where should I use vinyl matt paint?

Vinyl matt paint is an emulsion meaning it's most suitable for use inside your home.

"Interior walls and ceilings are the common choice for a vinyl matt paint," says Steve Jenkins, "typically being used in bedrooms and living rooms." 

However, as it's a water based paint, it can't be used everywhere. 

"It shouldn't be used on wood surfaces such as doors, windows and skirting board and it isn't suitable for exterior surfaces," explains Steve. In this instance, you would be better weighing up satin vs gloss or eggshell vs satin.

Does it require special application?

The good news is, even though you are more likely to purchase vinyl matt paint from the trade aisle of your local DIY store, you can still buy it from a retail store it doesn't require any specialist tools or application method.

"As an emulsion paint it can be applied to walls and ceilings with a paint brush, roller or if you have the equipment with a paint sprayer," says Steve Jenkins. 

So whether you're painting a wall or painting a ceiling, you can use vinyl matt in exactly the same was as you would any water based paint.

As an example, this Dulux Trade Natural Hessian Vinyl Matt Emulsion Paint is easily available online from B&Q.

What are the pros and cons?

When asked about the pros and cons of using vinyl matt paint, there's very little to dislike about the product.

"On the down side you will have to pay more for the pleasure of using it," says Steve, "but on the plus side - in my opinion - vinyl matt paint is typically easier to work with, it has a higher opacity so covers well, often meaning less coats and it lasts longer."

"While it is more expensive than everyday matt emulsion, it's easy to apply and covers better than standard matt emulsion. And it provides a durable, good looking finish that won't need repainting as often."

FAQs

Is vinyl matt paint washable?

Despite it's hard-wearing nature, vinyl matt paint will still scuff. It is wipeable with water meaning you can remove light marks with water. However, it's not scrubbable and the flat matt finish can sometimes make it trickier to avoid streaks or water marks once you've wiped it. You may find this more noticeable on darker colours.

Can I use vinyl matt paint in a bathroom?

Vinyl matt paint is not suitable for use in areas such as bathrooms and kitchens where the moisture content in the air is higher.

If you're seeking a matt finish for your bathroom design, specialist products such as this Crown Trade Clean Extreme Matt paint from B&Q would be more suitable.

Ready to start painting now you know which paint to buy? While matt may cover imperfections more effectively, make sure you don't miss out the all important stage of preparing your walls for painting to ensure you get the best finish you can. And if you prefer a roller to a brush, take some top tips from Steve Jenkins on how to paint with a roller for a professional looking finish.

Summary of this article: Spray-painting kitchen cabinets can give your cabinets a professional finish without the expense of replacing them. But, it requires good preparation and the right tools and paint to be a success. Make sure you have plenty of space to work in, remove all hardware, sand your cabinets and apply paint in thin, even coats for the best finish.

A kitchen makeover can be expensive, but spray-painting kitchen cabinets and doors instead of replacing them is a clever, budget-friendly alternative. You get an impressive refresh at a fraction of the cost, and you can choose the colour and finish you want.

Painting kitchen cabinets is a task most DIYers can tackle, but you will need a paint sprayer, which can be expensive. But don't worry, you can hire a professional sprayer for much less than the cost of a new one. And along with the expert insight you’ll find in this guide, you can take on the project yourself and get a smart factory-like finish.

Why spray painting kitchen cabinets is a good idea

Painted kitchen cabinets come with a smooth, durable, professional-looking finish that can only be achieved with a paint sprayer. Using a mini roller or paint brush will give a decent finish, but they won’t leave you with a factory-like finish.

But it's not just the finish that makes spraying kitchen cabinets a smart choice, as Michael Rolland, paint expert and managing director at The Paint Shed, reveals, “Spray painting is a good option for kitchen cabinets as it’s much faster than other techniques, especially if you can remove cabinet hardware first. This eliminates the need to brush around knobs and handles carefully, and in turn, saves time.”

Richard Davonport, managing director at Davonport, points out that maintenance is a little harder, “Once your kitchen is in place, any touching up or maintenance is a little more complex. Masking and prepping areas to enable spraying to be done in your home takes time.”

However, he notes that this is less likely with a spray finish. “The good news is that with spray paint, the paint is smooth and flat, which means it is less likely to chip or damage, whereas the small ridges in a brush-painted finish could break and chip even if a hardwearing paint is used.”

Try these tools and paint for a factory-like finish

Best paint to use for spraying kitchen units

Choosing the right paint is important when spraying kitchen cabinets. Steve Larkin, Kitchen expert and CEO of Kitchen Door Hub, reveals what to avoid and what to use: “Acrylic and oil paints should be avoided as they cannot adhere to the cabinet surfaces properly, and often only stick to wood cabinets if they have been thoroughly sanded down to remove any prior finishes.”

He adds, “The best paint to use is a water-based paint, as they are just as durable as other kinds of paint but have faster drying times and lower levels of VOCs. “

Rolland suggests a couple of paints, “One of the best paint options to use when spray painting kitchen cabinets is Zinsser Allcoat Exterior Matt Water Based or Zinsser Allcoat Water Based Exterior Satin. Zinsser Allcoat is a multi-surface, durable paint, making it perfect for use on kitchen cabinets as they are exposed to a lot of general wear and tear.” These paints are self-priming and available in various finishes and colours.

Other alternatives include the Rust-Oleum kitchen cupboard paint range available on Amazon, and the Frenchic Al Fresco range if you are looking for a chalk-like finish.

Choosing a paint sprayer to use

If you decide to spray paint kitchen cabinets yourself, you’ll need to invest in a paint sprayer. Steve Larkin says, “The best type of paint sprayer to use for kitchen cabinets is a HVLP (high volume, low pressure) sprayer or an airless sprayer.” He adds, “Airless sprayers are better if you have a larger kitchen or intend to use the sprayer again in the future, whereas HVLP sprayers are more budget-friendly and better suited to smaller jobs.

Alternatively, you can hire one, continues Larkin, “It is best to hire a paint sprayer regardless of what kind you will be using, as it is probably not worth the investment unless you will be using it often for large projects and have somewhere you can store it.” Prices for hiring an airless paint sprayer start at around £150 per day.

You can get an HVLP spray gun, such as the YIREAL Fence Paint Sprayer, on Amazon for around £50. Whatever you buy/hire, you will need to look after it, shares Larkin, “When spray painting kitchen cabinets, the paint will need to be watered down by adding around ten to twenty percent water (for water-based paints).”

He adds, “Paint that is not watered down is usually too thick for paint sprayers and can mean that you do not achieve a good finish. Thinner paint is less likely to clog the paint sprayer's atomiser, and it will lay much better for a smoother finish.”

How to spray paint kitchen cabinets

If new to paint spraying make sure to do some practice runs before starting on your kitchen cabinets. Make sure to wear a face mask and gloves when spraying.

1. Prep your kitchen  

There are a few options here, remove doors, drawers, shelves and cabinets to paint elsewhere or just remove doors/drawers/shelves and leave cabinets in situ. This is the more common and often the easier option. If you choose to do this, use masking tape and plastic sheets to mask off all areas that you don’t want spraying.

2. Remove hardware and clean 

First remove any hardware, i.e hinges and handles, and then use sugar soap to clean and degrease all surfaces to be painted. Wipe down with a damp cloth to remove any residue and leave to dry.

3. Sand surfaces 

Get a fine grit sandpaper – 180-220 is good – and rub down all parts of the surfaces that are going to be painted. If painting glossy cabinets try to ensure there are no glossy surfaces exposed. When finished, wipe down with a damp cloth to get rid of any dust. The better the prep the better the adhesion of the paint.

4. Set up to spray 

You will need a well-ventilated room/area to spray in, i.e. an open door or window. Put up plastic sheets to stop spray from straying onto surfaces and set up a table in the middle of the room.

Now get a box or similar to place the door/drawers on. You can add a rotating turntable like this Multi-use Heavy Duty 360° Rotating Swivel Stand Turntable from Amazon to rotate the door/drawer/shelves for easier painting.

If spraying cabinets, raise them off the ground a few inches – use wooden blocks or similar – but make sure the cabinet is steady. If spraying in situ, ensure all surfaces are covered, including the floor and ceiling.

5. Spray paint 

Place the door/drawer/shelf on the box, start with the back (if painting). Hold the nozzle 8-12 inches away from the surface and use even consistent strokes to apply a thin layer of paint. Now place the door/drawer/shelf away from the spraying area and leave to dry as per the manufacturers recommendation. Repeat for all that's being painted.

Once dry, paint the top, starting with the edges and work across the surface to the other edge. When dry, repeat the complete process, two coats should be enough.

When painting cabinets start inside and do the back panel first, then the sides and the front edges, followed by the outside and leave to dry.

FAQs

What colour should I spray my kitchen cabinets? 

White is a popular colour because it pairs well with almost any other colour. But if your kitchen has a modern, minimalist design, bold colours such as navy blue, black, or bright, vivid hues are often good choices. If you have a more traditional, rustic-style kitchen, consider using more subtle tones. Check out our painted kitchen cabinet ideas for inspiration on your colour choice.

DIY or professional, which costs more?

When it comes to budgeting for a kitchen respray cost, a DIY route will naturally be the cheaper option, but will involve you having the time and skills to complete the job. If you want to call in a professional, cost will vary depending on the size of your kitchen, the layout and the condition of your doors.

Be sure to get a number of quotes in before you make your final decision.

What are the downsides to spray painting kitchen cabinets?  

There are a lot of plus points to spray painting kitchen cabinets, but there are drawbacks, shares Rolland, “One downside to using spray paint is that while it offers a smooth overall finish, being able to achieve a consistent coverage can be difficult. Unlike with brush strokes where you can see where paint is applied, when spray painting, it is necessary to use multiple light coats which requires careful technique.”

Annoyingly, if you do make a mistake, you need to prep and paint again. We suggest if you’re a spray paint novice that you perform a few practice runs on waste wood to hone your skills. And, you will need a space where you can spray the cabinets and leave to dry.

If you’re getting a professional finish on your kitchen cabinets, you want to ensure the rest of the kitchen looks good as well. Check out kitchen cabinet lighting ideas and how to adjust kitchen cabinet doors to get it spot on.

Painting a hallway not only needs to be a stylish solution, it also needs to be a practical one. As the entrance to your home it can see a lot of action. Choosing the right colours will set the tone for the rest of your home, but getting your preparation and painting right is just as important.

Knowing how to paint a room or hallway the right way will make sure you get a good pro looking finish. And just importantly it will leave you with a durable wipeable finish that will help it to stay looking good.

Should I paint from the top up or top down?

The general rule for paint projects is to start at the top and work your way down. Jimmy Englezos, DIY expert and senior brand manager at Ronseal, shares the first step before any painting begins: “It's generally best to start with prepping your woodwork, before applying paint to anything.”

He adds, “Put down a dust sheet and ensure you have good ventilation with an open window. Fill any holes or cracks that need addressing with wood filler, then sand the woodwork with 120-grit sandpaper, before wiping the wood clean with white spirit and leaving it to dry.”

Once the woodwork is prepped and ready to go, start prepping the ceiling and walls. Once all areas are paint-ready, Englezos says, “I’d recommend starting your home decorating tasks from the ceiling and working your way down to floor level.”

So to summarise, start with the ceiling, followed by walls and then finish with doors, windows and skirting boards.

Some painters like to paint woodwork first, then mask off the trim with painters' tape, and finish with the walls. This helps create neat lines where needed, and if a mistake is made, it's easy to wipe off the emulsion. But this order typically takes longer as satin, gloss paints, etc take longer to dry than emulsion.

Try these to paint a hallway

Painting hallway walls and ceilings

Prepping walls and ceilings

To prepare walls for painting, start by brushing down the ceiling and walls with a stiff brush to remove cobwebs and any debris. Wash down with sugar soap if the ceiling or walls haven't been cleaned for a long while. Englezos says the next step is to “Address any holes or hairline cracks in your walls by using wall filler and sanding down.” A fine sandpaper grade - 120 -180 grit is good. Use a sander head like this GoodHome Sander head from B&Q and an extension pole for a quicker and easier job.

Englezos adds, “For walls and ceilings that have been previously painted, sand off any loose or flaking paint before wiping with a microfibre cloth or handheld vacuum to remove dust and dirt.”

Finally, mask off any light fittings, light switches, and power sockets to prevent paint from getting onto them. One tip is to unscrew the fitting slightly, add tape to the edges, tuck it in, and then tighten the fitting back up.

Painting walls and ceilings

When painting a ceiling, start with a two or three-inch brush and go around the edges of the ceiling and light fittings to create a border approximately three inches wide.

Next, you need to paint the remaining ceiling. Bailey Oates, Colour Expert at Earthborn, offers a few options: “You can apply paint with a brush, roller or spray.” She adds, “The method of application will affect the finished texture of the walls. For example, a roller will give more texture, and a spray will give the least texture. Most people find that a short pile roller provides the best finish overall.”

You may need different sizes depending on the complexity of the ceiling, as Englezos explains, “For a regular-sized wall, a 9-inch roller should work fine; smaller rollers are better for unusual shapes, such as a curved alcove or tight spots, while larger models will cover the area much quicker but can be harder to control.”

Once the ceiling is dry, you can apply the same principle to the walls. Cut in around the top of the wall to create a neat dividing line – if using a different colour. Now create a border around the top of the wall, in the corners, and along the skirting boards.

Now get a roller (like this Harris Revive Polyester 9" Medium pile Roller set) – use an extension pole to make it easier. Start in a top corner, creating a strip from the skirting board to the ceiling using a V/W pattern to spread the paint and fill the gaps accordingly. When finished, go back over with the roller using a light touch (known as laying off).

Painting doors, windows and skirting boards

Prepping your wood

If needed, wash down the old paint with sugar soap, then wash down with a damp cloth and wipe dry. Add painters tape like this Frog Tape Yellow Delicate Surface Painters Masking Tape from Amazon to protect paint and help get straight edges. Now get a fine grade sandpaper – 180 grit is good – and rub down the woodwork. Wipe down the woodwork to get rid of dust with a damp cloth and leave to dry.

Paint woodwork and trim

Start the painting process with a primer if painting bare wood and an undercoat if painting previously painted wood. If painting a door frame do this before you paint a door. Typically painting windows is next, start at the top and work downwards and finish by painting the sill.

The last job is painting skirting boards, this helps ensure that no dust is kicked up onto the skirting boards when painting doors and windows. If painting skirting boards with carpet make sure to lay down a double depth of painters tape and make sure the edge is tucked in to stop it getting on carpet edges.

How to paint a hallway with stairs

If you are painting a stairwell at the same time as the hallway, you are going to need some help to reach the high ceilings and walls. The traditional way is to place a ladder against the high wall and a plank/board through a rung and onto a stair step. But a lot of DIYers don't have suitable planks or boards.

The alternative is to use a combination ladder like this 4.7M Multi-purpose Aluminium Folding Extendable Ladder from Amazon. This can be fixed into various configurations to help reach high ceilings and tops of walls.

But you still need a head for heights. If ladders are not your thing you can stand on your landing to reach. Use a sander head and an extension pole to prep the walls. To cut in at the top of the walls try a paint pad on an extension pole. To finish, use a nine inch roller on an extension pole.

FAQs

What are the best colours to paint a hallway?

Should a narrow hallway be painted in a dark or light colour? Paul Hodgetts, Director of Colour at Rust-Oleum, offers insight into what works: “The amount of natural light in a hallway plays a huge role in how colours will look and feel in the space.”

He adds, “In darker or windowless hallways, deep shades can make the area feel enclosed, so it’s usually best to lean towards lighter tones that reflect as much light as possible. Soft neutrals, off-whites, and gentle pastels can instantly lift and brighten the space, helping it feel more inviting.”

However, it's not just the amount of natural light in a hallway to consider, as Hodgetts shares, “The proportions of your hallway are just as important. Narrow or compact hallways benefit from airy shades such as pale greys, warm whites, and subtle pastel tones, which can create an illusion of width and openness.”

If a hallway has limited natural light, Hodgetts suggests a classic colour, “White remains a timeless and popular choice for hallways, and for good reason. It instantly brightens spaces with limited natural light, making even narrow or compact hallways feel more open and airy.”

He adds, “White also has the advantage of being incredibly versatile; it blends effortlessly with all styles of furniture and soft furnishings, while creating a seamless transition into adjoining rooms regardless of their colour palette.”

What are the paint colours to avoid for a hallway?

Colour choice is subjective, but as a general rule, Hodgetts says, "It’s generally best to avoid very dark or heavy shades, such as deep browns, charcoals, or blacks, particularly if the space is narrow or lacks natural light. These colours can absorb light, making the hallway feel more enclosed and even smaller than it is."

He adds, "Strong, overpowering shades like intense reds or neons can also feel overwhelming in what is often a transitional space, creating a jarring effect rather than a welcoming flow."

However, this doesn't mean you can't use dark colours, continues Hodgetts, "It doesn’t mean dark or bold colours are completely off-limits; they can work beautifully if you have a generously sized hallway with good natural light, or if used as an accent." He adds, "But as a rule of thumb, lighter, softer, and more versatile tones tend to be the safest choice for keeping hallways bright, spacious, and inviting."

Make the most of your hallway makeover with these 7 creative hallway storage ideas for a tidy entryway, Hallway decor ideas to make the best first impression and 13 hallway flooring ideas for an impactful entranceway.

Cracked and peeling paint is an eyesore so knowing how to fix peeling paint is one step to a fresh new finish. But before you jump in and start scraping away you need to know why your wood or walls are peeling. 

Too many layers of old paint? Moisture behind the paint? Greasy and dirty surfaces? When painting wood or a wall you want to avoid the issues that caused the peeling in the first place to get a smart long lasting finish.

Here we look at the reasons that can cause peeling, how to deal with them, and how to get rid of the old paint ready for a refresh.

How to fix peeling paint

There’s a whole host of different reasons for peeling paint, from the wrong type of paint used, to applying it to a poorly-prepared surface.

First we look at how to identify potential causes of peeling paint, so you can remedy it before we go into exactly how to fix the problem.

Identifying the cause of peeling paint

1. Greasy dirty surfaces Painting over dirty/greasy patches means the paint won’t adhere as well as other areas and will start to peel. Wash down with sugar soap if needed to get a clean surface to paint on.  

2. Not primed or sealed Painting a surface that hasn’t been primed or sealed can lead to a patchy finish, with areas of a surface more prone to peeling than others. New untreated surfaces will suck up the paint, meaning you will need more paint to finish adding to the expense and the chances of peeling paint. 

3. Poorly primed A good quality primer evenly applied across a surface will work well. A poor quality primer applied unevenly or too thin will negate its purpose and can lead to poor adhesion in different areas.  

4. Too many layers Continuing to add more and more layers of paint will increase the chances of poor adhesion. If you don’t know how well a surface was prepared previously, think about stripping back to bare wood or wall. 

5. Cheap paint The make up of cheap paint typically means that it doesn’t adhere to a surface as well as a quality paint. This means there is more chance of it peeling, flaking or lifting off the surface. 

6. Not allowing to dry fully Not allowing a coat of paint to dry properly before adding another will trap moisture between the layers. This means the top coat won’t adhere as well to the layer below. It is always worth knowing how long paint takes to dry. Check the manufacturer's recommendation and stick to it. 

7. Moisture/damp The classic cause of peeling paint is moisture behind the paint. Make sure that the surface you are going to paint is dry and doesn’t have any underlying issues that need sorting. 

How repair peeling paint: Step-by-step

Before you start there are a few essential tools that you’ll need. Make sure you have a paint scraper, sandpaper, a wire brush and dust sheets if you want to keep the area clean. 

1. Get rid of the old paint 

The first step is to remove as much of the peeling paint as possible. For walls use a wallpaper scraper set like this COTTAM Premium Wooden Handle Scale Tang Scraper Collection from Amazon. If needed use a wire brush to help get rid of loose paint that the scraper is struggling with.

These scrapers can be used on wood as well, but if you have decorative trim such as architrave and skirting boards you will need the help of a shave hook like this Stanley Professional Comb Shave Hook from Amazon. Its shape helps to get rid of paint on curved and hard to reach areas. For intricate trim try wire wool to get a smooth finish. 

2. Fill and sand  

With as much of the paint removed by scraper, you need to blend in the old paint with the wall or woodwork. Start by filling in the larger gaps and cracks with a suitable all purpose filler or patching plaster for walls and a wood filler for trim and leave to dry.

For walls – and larger flat areas of wood like panel doors – use a fine sandpaper – 240 grit is good – and a hand sander or an electric sander like this VonHaus Detail Sander from Amazon and blend the remaining paint with the wall/wood until you get a smooth surface.

For more decorative or intricate trim, you will need to sand by hand. For hard to reach areas fold the sandpaper in half, put over the end of the scraper and use the edge to get into the narrow spots. For other hard-to-reach areas get out the wire wool. 

3. Clean and prime 

Before adding any paint make sure that the area is as dust-free as possible. Get a stiff hand brush and brush down the surface and vacuum up any dust or debris. Next wipe down the surface with a damp cloth to get rid of any dust.

Now get a decent primer appropriate for the surface you are painting. Zinsser B-I-N Primer & Sealer from Amazon is a great choice for plaster walls, while Dulux Trade Quick Dry Wood Primer Undercoat is a good choice for wood.

For walls, seal the patched areas, but if you have a lot of them, consider doing the whole wall. For wood doors and trim prime the whole area. Once dry add your choice of top coat.  

FAQs

Does primer stop paint peeling? 

Yes is the simple answer, but it's not a guarantee. The area that has peeling paint will need to be dealt with accordingly before adding a primer. If there is any damp this will need to be dealt with before you paint otherwise the issue will continue. All loose paint will need to be removed to help create an effective surface for paint.  

Adding a coat of primer on a damp-free, properly prepped wall will help create a strong base for additional coats of paint to adhere to and great reduce the chances of paint peeling.  

How do I know if there is moisture in a wall/wood? 

Peeling paint is one of the classic signs of moisture or dampness in a wall or wood. Other tell tale signs of moisture/damp are a musty smell, a subtle but visible difference in colours in walls and visible issues such as black spots.

If you are unsure there is moisture in a wall or wood you can use a moisture meter like this Dryzone Moisture Meter Detector from Amazon. A reading below 20% – ideally 12-15% – is an acceptable level of moisture. If above 20% you will need to investigate further.  

What happens if you paint straight onto plaster? 

If you are painting onto previously painted or wallpapered walls the plaster will have been sealed with either a coat of paint or wallpaper paste. This means there is no need to add a new coat of sealer. Prepping the wall and adding a primer or similar will be enough.

However, if you are painting new plaster you will need to add what is known as a mist coat. This will help seal the plaster and make sure that your top coats will adhere properly to the plaster. Make sure the plaster is completely dry before adding any paint. If you trap moisture behind the paint it will eventually peel and flake.  

As with any paint project you will need to ask yourself How much paint do I need? and How to clean gloss paint brushes to ensure you buy enough paint and keep your  brushed in good condition for your next DIY job. 

If you have walls that are painted badly, knowing how to strip paint off walls properly can potentially help transform a room. 

Getting rid of the poor paint job is the first step, before looking at applying new paint correctly to give the room a professional finish.

Here we give you the low down on how to strip paint off walls, including the different techniques and tools you can use to give you a surface that is perfect for painting a room. 

How to strip paint off walls

The state of the old paint on a wall will determine which method will work best for stripping it off. Any of the following methods will get the job done, but here we help you choose the best option for your particular paint project. In most cases you will need to combine a couple of methods to get the best finish. 

1. Sanding 

This is one of the more commonly used methods. This is typically used to help smooth out old paint (in good condition) to get rid of dried runs, uneven build up of paint across a wall and provide good adhesion for the new paint.

You can use an electric sander like this BLACK+DECKER 55 W Detail Mouse Electric Sander from Amazon. Or, for a more manual approach use one of the best hand sanders for wood and walls. Try a sander head on an extension pole for hard to reach areas and ceilings. Use a fine sandpaper grade such as 180 grit.

This can be a messy job so make sure to wear a mask and attach a dust extraction bag if you have one, or connect your sander to a vacuum.

2. Use a scraper 

A scraper is a tool that can be used by itself or with any of the other paint stripping techniques in this guide. By itself it is ideal for removing peeling, flaking or bubbling paint. 

Use a multi purpose paint stripper tool like this suokoun Scraper Tool from Amazon or invest in a set of wallpaper scrapers if you are only stripping smaller areas of paint off a wall. Work the area in all directions and make sure to get rid of all loose paint. 

3. Chemical paint stripper 

Chemical paint strippers are typically used for more stubborn paint jobs such as walls covered with an oil-based paint i.e. gloss, or varnished wood walls rather than emulsioned walls. Combine a paint stripper like this Kling-Strip from Amazon with a heavy duty long-handled wallpaper scraper for a quicker job.

Paint stripper creates a lot of mess, so make sure to lay down dust sheets and wear a mask and gloves when removing the old paint to protect you from fumes and skin burns. 

4. Heat gun 

A heat gun is typically used for stripping paint from wood, but it can be used on plaster walls as well. Put the heat gun on a low heat and hold around 10 cm from the wall and wait for the paint to soften enough to scrape off as you go. Do not hold the gun in one place for too long as you can damage the plaster.  

5. Steamer 

If you are struggling to remove wall paint with just a scraper, don't get too forceful as you will start damaging the plaster. To make it easier to remove it typically needs to be softened. 

A wallpaper steamer like this BLACK+DECKER Wallpaper Steamer Stripper with Pad from Amazon is an effective tool. Set up the stripper and place the pad on the wall and leave for 30 seconds and test to see if the paint is soft enough. If not leave for longer and remove with a scraper. Ideally start at the top and work across and down the wall. Finish with a quick rub down with sandpaper.  

FAQs

Why remove paint from a wall? 

There are a few reasons why you should think about removing paint from a wall before applying a new coat. 

• Old paint - The previous paint may have been left for years and may even contain lead if really old. Even though it may look stable, stripping back to the wall and prepping properly will give a much better surface to paint on.
• Peeling, flaking, bubbling paint - If the paint is visually unappealing and has noticeable issues such peeling, flaking, bubbling, you will want to remove and start with a clean smooth surface before you paint.  
• Too many layers - The more layers of paint the more likely there is to be a problem. Each time a layer is added the more chance there is of it lifting off the surface. Plus, the build up of paint can emphasise previous poor paint jobs. 
• Dark walls - To add a light colour over a dark colour typically means that you need to add more layers to hide the original colour. Removing the dark colour will ensure you get a true colour in fewer coats saving time and money. 

What happens if you paint over old paint? 

This will depend on the condition of the walls and the paint. If the plaster on the walls is in good condition, you just need to prep a wall ready for painting and apply your paint.  

However, often the reason for stripping paint off a wall is because there is an underlying issue with the wall, for instance when painting a hallway. Typically this will be a damp issue which is causing the paint to flake, peel or bubble leaving an ugly surface that needs to be dealt with.

If you paint straight over an unprepped or poorly prepared wall the paint will not adhere as well to the wall and will eventually start to lift off the surface. So the simple solution is not to paint over old paint unless you have done your prep. 

After stripping paint off a wall you need to make sure that you are painting your walls, skirting boards and trim the right way to get a decent like new finish. 

There’s an art to spray painting wood and done correctly this technique will give you impressive results. Spray painting is perfect for achieving a professional finish on your kitchen cabinets, doors, windows and wooden furniture.

Whether you’re spray painting natural woods or processed woods, like all painting wood projects, you need to get your prep right. Don’t, and that super, smooth finish will be a dream.

But it's not just the preparation that needs to be right, your technique wants to be consistent and assured. So you might want to do a few practice runs after reading this guide to hone your skills before you dive in on your next project.  

Spray painting wood: The pros and cons

“The biggest benefit of painting wood with a professional sprayer is that you get a much more even and controlled coat than if you use a roller for coverage.” explains Brandon Walker, foreman at ASAP Restoration LLC. “This can be critical for highly visual spaces like kitchen cabinets, but it can also make DIY projects look cleaner and more professional as well.”

But getting a pro finish does have its drawbacks, “The downsides of using a professional sprayer for this type of work is that it can be much more to clean up than just using a roller for the project. The upfront cost of this tool is also a barrier that might not make it worth a purchase for many DIYers.” 

Prepping before spray painting wood

A well-prepared surface will ensure that a sprayed surface will give the best finish. Here Walker reveals the steps he recommends you take to ensure a clean finish.  

1. Clean the wood 

It's essential to thoroughly and completely clean the wood surface to ensure proper adhesion and a smooth finish of the paint. Use a soft brush or vacuum with the brush attachment to remove loose dust and debris. Follow this up by wiping the surface with a damp cloth or a mild cleaning solution such as acetone to remove any remaining dirt or grime. 

2. Sand the surface 

Sanding the wood surface helps to create a smooth and uniform texture while also enhancing paint absorption too. Use sandpaper with the appropriate grit for the desired finish. Finer grits create a smoother finish and coarser grits are used for more texture. Sand in the direction of the wood grain to avoid damaging the surface if possible. 

3. Prime the surface 

Applying a bonding primer to the wood surface before painting helps to improve adhesion and durability of the final paint finish. Choose a high-quality bonding primer that is specifically formulated for wood surfaces for the best results. Apply the primer evenly using a brush, roller, or spray gun, and allow it to dry completely according to the manufacturer's instructions before painting. 

4. Ensure proper hydration 

Proper moisture content in the wood is crucial for achieving a successful finish. Excess moisture can cause issues such as peeling, cracking, popping, or even mold growth. Use a moisture meter to measure the hydration content of the wood and ensure that it is at or below the recommended level for the type of finish you are applying and for the species of wood being used.

If necessary, allow the wood to acclimate to the surrounding environment before proceeding with painting or staining to ensure the best results. 

How to spray paint wood

1. Prepare area and yourself 

Spraying paint can leave a lot of paint spray in the air and is harder to control where it will lie than a brush or roller. Ideally, spray outdoors on a bench or a couple of saw horses like this Evolution Power Tools Saw Horse from Amazon. If spraying indoors, spray in a well ventilated room, cover the surrounding areas with sheets – if needed – and wear a mask .  

2. Do a test spray 

Dilute your paint and load up your spray gun and do a test spray on an out of the way area. This will help pull the paint through the nozzle, ensure its working OK and give you an idea of how much pressure you are going to need to apply. 

3. Spray paint the wood  

Start your spray gun just outside the edge of your starting point, start at the top and move up and down the wood in even, consistent, constant moving strokes. Hold around 5-15 cm from the surface. Leaving in one area for too long will cause paint buildup, leading to an uneven surface and eventually runs.

Leave the first coat to dry and clean the spray nozzle if not going to be used for a while. Check manufacturers recommendations. Add a second coat, leave to dry and if needed add a clear top coat.  

FAQs

What type of paint spray gun should I use? 

This depends on what type of wood spray paint job is being tackled and how often you are going to use the spray gun. The cheaper spray paint guns like this WAGNER Wood & Metal paint sprayer from Amazon, are good for most general wood painting tasks such as fences, doors and furniture. But, they are best suited to occasional DIY use. They are not really built for regular everyday use.  

For larger projects and regular use you will need to invest in a HVLP paint sprayer or an airless sprayer — depending on your project. These cost more, but are a worthwhile investment if you are going to do a lot of spray painting.

Alternatively, for smaller projects you can purchase paint spray cans like this Rust-Oleum Painters' Touch Spray Paint from Amazon, which negates the needs for investing in a spray gun.  

How many coats of spray paint are needed on wood? 

Typically you need two coats of top coat to get a strong, smooth finish. Make sure that the first coat is even and completely dry. Note the manufacturer's instructions on drying/curing times. Check the finish and rub down with a fine 240 grit sandpaper grade if needed. 

Don’t forget to brush/vacuum and wipe down the surface with a damp cloth to get rid of any dust. Apply the second coat. Add a clear sealer coat if wanted/needed. 

If spraying bare wood at least one coat of primer will need to be applied to provide a base for the top coats. A primer is also a good choice to cover stains, knots and help hide a darker colour paint if not painting bare wood. 

Can I use gloss in a spray paint gun? 

Yes, you can use pretty much any paint (or stain, varnish) you want in a spray paint gun. But you will need to thin the paint to ensure it doesn’t clog the nozzle and gives you an even spray.

The typical ratio for thinning is 80/20, or 70/30 if you have a thicker paint. So that’s 8 parts paint and 2 parts thinner. For water based paints simply dilute with water, for oils based paints dilute with white spirit like this Palace Langlow White Spirit from Amazon. But, don’t forget to check the manufacturer's recommendations for spray guns to make sure.  

Can I spray paint MDF? 

Yes you can spray paint MDF, it's very much the same process as prepping and painting any other wood. But you will need to use a primer to seal the MDF. And pay particular attention to the edges. 

Adding paint will raise the wood grain, so one option is to fill with wood filler and rub down before painting. Another is to apply MDF edging tape before you start.     

Preparation is key for any wood painting projects, so you need to know how to strip paint off wood and what are the best sandpaper grades to use to get a good finish.  

Fed up with lumpy wallpaper paste, poor paint jobs and wonky wallpaper? Decorating mistakes are easy to make, but with the help of this expert guide you’ll be saying goodbye to all of these and a whole lot more.

No one wants a decorating disaster on their hands, and it can cost a fortune and too much time to rectify. Whether you are wallpapering a room, painting a wall or trying to cover water stains on a ceiling you need to know the little secrets that the trades use to help them achieve a pro finish. 

Decorating mistakes to avoid

Follow this guide to get a finish to be proud of. Discover why you should avoid cheap paint brushes, where to start painting, how to paint new plaster and more. 

1. Poor preparation

Whether you like it or not you need to spend time on your preparation. Skipping past or spending little time on preparation when painting wood, walls, doors or wallpapering a hallway, will leave you with a less than satisfactory finish. 

It may look good for a while, but it won’t be long before wallpaper peels, and paint chips, marks or bubbles up. And you’ll need to do the whole job over again, and much sooner than a pro job. Remember to clean, sand, and fill and you're a long way to a flawless finish. 

2. Cheap paintbrushes

The lure of a cheap paintbrush is obvious, but rarely does it last or spread paint as well, and it won’t be long before the bristles start making an appearance in your paintwork. Pick up a decent paintbrush like a Harris or a Purdy and you can feel the difference in your hand. Buy a decent paintbrush, look after it properly and it will last for years. 

3. Not cleaning brushes and rollers

Look after paintbrushes and rollers and they will look after you. It may seem like a pain after you have finished a paint project but knowing how to clean paint brushes and rollers will prolong their life and ensure they keep giving a good finish. You can invest in cheap rollers and throw away afterwards, but this isn’t cost effective or eco-friendly. 

4. Start painting in the wrong place

Start at the top and finish at the bottom is a general rule for most paint projects. Paint drips downwards, so it makes sense to start at the top and work down, dealing with any issues as you pass. If you are painting a room you want to start with the ceiling and then the walls. If painting doors, windows, trim etc, the same principles apply. 

5. Not opening, closing and storing paint properly

Paint isn’t cheap, so you need to look after it to ensure that it stays at its best. To ensure that paint doesn’t separate or dry out it should be stored away from sunlight and low/high temperatures. 

Knowing how to open a paint can the right way will ensure that it retains its seal when closed – keeping your paint fresh. Use a paint can opener like this Coral Essentials Paint Tin Can Opener from Amazon to do the job. Ideally don’t paint directly from the can, pour what you need into a tray or paint kettle. If you do, make sure to wipe clean the lip before replacing the lid. 

6. Using cloth dust sheets

Traditional cloth dust sheets are great for protecting furniture from dust and even roller spray, but if you drop large blobs of paint on them it can seep through to the surface underneath. Not good if you’ve got a brand new carpet. The same can be said if you choose to use bed sheets or similar. 

If you want to use cotton dust sheets, look for plastic lined sheets, or just use plastic dust sheets like this brackit 8-Pack Large Plastic Dust Sheets for Decorating from Amazon.  

7. Painting straight onto new plaster

Try painting straight onto new plaster and you wish you had never started, trust me. The paint will dry rapidly and as you smooth out with a roller, the finish will be lumpy and even pull paint off the wall. When painting new plaster you need to add a mist coat to seal the plaster and stop it sucking up the moisture from the paint. 

8. Not buying enough paint

Before you start a paint project you want to make sure that you have enough paint to finish it. Buy too little and you can’t finish a project until you invest in more. This can mean an extra trip to the local hardware store or a wait if buying online. 

Or, there could be a subtle colour mismatch if buying from different batches. Check out our How much paint do I need? guide to estimate accurately your needs. 

9. Wallpapering over new plaster

Fresh new plaster will almost instantly suck up any moisture in wallpaper paste as soon as it is applied. This means when you put up your wallpaper it will stick in position and you won't be able to move it to line up seams or patterns. 

When wallpapering new plaster it needs to be sealed to stop this happening. Dilute wallpaper paste and apply evenly with a brush and roller. Leave for a couple of hours before wallpapering. 

10. Not planning your wallpaper start point

To make hanging wallpaper easier and give a uniform look across a wall you need to plan your starting point. Typically this is the centre of a wall. Mark and work towards the corner and mark where each roll edge will be. Adjust the starting point – if needed – so you don’t have any really narrow strips in corners. 

11. Lumpy wallpaper paste

Lumps in wallpaper paste can be very irritating when hanging wallpaper and can easily be avoided by mixing properly. Make sure that you have a clean bucket or container to hand. Read the manufacturer's recommendation on the packet for how much water you need and add the right amount of cold water. 

Snip the corner of the paste packet and slowly add the wallpaper paste to the water while stirring at the same time. Alternatively, get a drill paddle mixer like this Toolty Helix Mixing Paddle from Amazon. Place in the water, start up the paddle and add the paste. 

12. Blunt scissors or knives

Wallpaper scissors need to be kept clean to stop them losing their sharp edge. When finished with, wipe clean with a damp cloth. If they start to lose their sharp edge, you can use a scissor or knife sharpener to get it back. Alternatively, invest in a new pair. 

If you use a decorators edge and a sharp knife like this Amazon Basics Auto-Lock Zinc-Alloy Shell Utility Knife, remember to replace the blade regularly. Always make sure you have some spares. 

13. Don't leave paste on wallpaper

Wallpaper paste can easily ooze onto the surface of wallpaper, and if left it can leave unwanted shiny or matt spots which are really difficult to remove. Alternatively, the paste can soak into colours and dilute the colour, or remove, when wiped. Ideally, try to make sure that as little paste as possible gets on the surface. But if it does wipe off – or dab – immediately with an almost dry cloth. 

14. Not buying enough wallpaper

It's simple, you need to buy enough wallpaper to complete a job. This is especially pertinent if you are using a patterned wallpaper. You don’t want to get to the end, find out you need another roll and then find out it's out of stock or discontinued. 

Use an online calculator to help calculate how much you need. Add an extra roll if you’re a novice to wallpapering.  

15. Emulsioning over water stains

Water stains leave ugly marks on ceilings and walls and are almost impossible to remove. You can clean with bleach and water but you will still need to paint over to hide. Do not use emulsion, it's water based and just soaks into the stain. 

Use a specialist stain blocker like this Zinsser Cover Stain from Amazon, or an oil based undercoat or paint (that you might already have) to cover, leave to dry and then add your top coat, which can be emulsion.
 

Any DIY decorating project needs the right tools to get the job done properly. Check out 11 wallpaper tools you need, best paint brushes and best hand sanders for wood to help you on your way. 

Need to refresh your favourite furniture? Painting wood furniture can turn old tatty items into fresh, smart, contemporary objects of desire. A new coat of paint can transform a rarely used sideboard into a focal point, a chair into a functional thing of beauty and give a bookshelf a new lease of life.  

But you need to make sure that you are doing it right. Like most painting wood projects, preparation and paint are the key. Poor preparation and the wrong paint will soon see your newly painted furniture peel and chip and need a new coat of paint. Find out what you need to know to stop this happening. 

Painting wood furniture

There’s a lot of different types of wood furniture out there, from natural wood like pine to manufactured woods like MDF, but how do you paint them? Or can you? Michael Rolland, Managing Director at The Paint Shed reveals there’s a paint for every wood, you've just got to choose the right one. “It’s less about avoiding certain types of wooden furniture and more about the compatibility between the wood and the paint you have. For example, have you made sure that your wood paint is fit for use on interiors? And do you have the correct primer for your paint?"

He continues, “In terms of what shouldn’t be painted, it’s really up to you. Some people are very passionate that antique pieces should not be painted. However, if the correct preparations are done and quality paint is used, there is no reason that an antique up-cycle can’t look great.” 

Steps for painting wood furniture

1. Make your furniture hardware free 

If the furniture you are looking to paint has handles, knobs, or any other type of hardware you need to remove this to make sure that you don’t get paint on them. Get a screwdriver/Allen key, remove and make sure to store the parts in a container so you don't lose them.

Now remove any drawers and put them to one side. Ideally you want to remove doors and shelves – if your furniture has any – as this makes them easier to paint and get a good consistent finish on. 

2. Prepare a space to paint 

When painting furniture you need to clear a space to work in and lay down dust sheets like this 3 Pack Extra Large Plastic Dust Sheets for Decorating from Amazon. Ideally you want to be working inside in an area where there’s little disturbance, so no-one knocks into the furniture when drying or kicks up dust that can stick to your paint. In the summer months you can work outside if you have the space. 

3. Sand the surfaces 

The first step to paint, restore or upcycle your wood furniture is to get rid of old paint and/or prepare the surface. If needed start with sugar soap and a kitchen scrubber to clean the surface, leave to dry and sand. If not needed, head straight to the sanding wood stage. 

If there’s a lot of paint to remove, start with a medium sandpaper with a 60-100 grit. Follow this up with a fine sandpaper -180-220 grit is good. If your furniture has detail that is difficult to sand with sandpaper, use a paint stripper and/or wire wool to remove.  

4. Add a primer 

Make sure your surfaces are clean and dry. Apply your primer using a suitable brush and/or roller. Use a thin coat to help ensure a better finish. Leave to dry as recommended and sand with a fine sandpaper grade – 240 grit is good – wipe down with a damp cloth to get rid of dust. Add another coat if needed and repeat as the first coat.  

5. Paint your furniture 

When the primer is dry, apply thin coats of paint with a suitable brush or roller. If your furniture has detail, start by painting this first and then paint the larger, easier to paint areas. Leave the first coat to dry, rub down with a 240 grit sandpaper, wipe down and apply a second. Two coats should be enough, but if needed, add a third coat and leave to dry as recommended.

If using chalk or milk paint you can add a wax finish or even a varnish to help protect the paint and keep your furniture looking good for longer. 

FAQs

Should I prime wood furniture before painting? 

There is an argument that you don’t need to prime wood furniture if using a self priming paint, and your furniture is not going to get constant everyday use – like a bookshelf or sideboard. As long as your prep is done properly you won’t need a primer.

But, if painting bare wood on furniture that is going to get a lot of use – such as a chair – we recommend that you use a primer for bare wood. This also helps cover the wood so you can use less of the top coat. 

If you are just rubbing down a piece of previously painted furniture you don't need to use a primer. If painting over a dark colour with a light colour you can use an undercoat, but again not necessary if the paint is a self priming wood paint.

What is the best paint for wood furniture? 

There’s a lot of choice, depending what type of finish you are looking for and whether the paint you want is available in the colour you want. But whatever finish you want the paint still needs to be the right choice as Rolland reveals, “We’d always recommend a water-based, durable and hard-wearing quality paint for wooden furniture to ensure that the finished look is long-lasting. Farrow and Ball’s Dead Flat paint is ideal as it is both as it offers excellent coverage, is hard wearing and can be washed and wiped clean without damaging the colour or flat finish it creates. Apply the paint with a brush or roller and cover with a second coat after four hours of drying time for the most seamless finish.” 

But there are other choices as Rolland continues, “A good trade paint alternative would be Tikkurila Helmi 30 Paint, which is a durable furniture paint that is also ideal for painting small items like window frames, doors, kitchen cabinets, radiators and more.”

Other paints Homebuilding & Renovating recommend would be the Frenchic indoor furniture paint range or if looking for a high gloss finish try this Dulux Trade High Gloss from Amazon.

Is it better to paint wood furniture with a roller or brush? 

This depends very much on what type of furniture you are looking to paint. But a brush is typically your first choice, especially if your furniture has detail and few flat surfaces. Use a set of brushes like this Harris SGOOD 5BRUSH Set from Amazon, so you have brushes for small details, larger details and flat surfaces. If you are using chalk paint try this Professional Chalk and Wax Paint Brush 2PC Set from Amazon. 

But, it does depend on what type of finish you are hoping to achieve. If you are looking for a brush stroke free surface then you can use a mini roller. While a foam roller will give you the smoothest finish, it will still leave a faint texture. For a smooth factory-like finish you will need to use a spray gun. 

If painting MDF furniture follow our How to Paint MDF, Sanding MDF and Best MDF Paint guides to help you get the best finish possible. 

Just what is emulsion paint used for? With so many different types of paint available, it can be hard to know which one is best for the particular project you are tackling.

"There are many different types of paint to choose from, but while some vary in their finish, others are defined by their ingredients or usage," explains DIY expert Steve Jenkins. 

In this guide, we take a look specifically at emulsion paint, explaining what it is as well as how and where to use it. We'll also take a look at the different types of emulsion paint around – because for there to be just one type would be far too simple!

Read on to see whether emulsion paint is going to be the best finishing touch for the task you have in mind – and, if not, which alternatives might be better. 

What is emulsion paint?

Emulsion is a water-based paint that is commonly available in two types: matt and silk. 

Water-based paints are not quite as durable as oil-based paints, but tend to have quicker drying times and are easier to apply – handy for those painting a ceiling. 

"You can choose from matt or silk finishes with matt offering a dull sheen that is a good choice for walls with imperfections as it doesn't reflect light, and makes imperfections harder to spot," says Steve. "A silk finish has a higher sheen so is more likely to show imperfections, but if you have smooth surfaces it is easier to keep clean."

What is emulsion paint used for?

Emulsion paint is suitable for a number of different surfaces and uses, including painting wood. 

"Emulsion paint tends to be best suited for walls for a beautiful, decorative finish, and will have a more flat, matt finish," advises Patrick O’Donnell, brand ambassador at Farrow & Ball. "Chalkier, matt emulsions absorb light, which means they are a great decorating tool to minimise the visibility of flaws on areas such as imperfect plasterwork."

"Emulsion is commonly used on walls and ceilings thanks to its make up and ease of use," explains Steve. "It can be used on wallpaper, bare plaster, plasterboard and Artex. If used on newly plastered walls, what is known as a 'mist cost' is needed to seal the plaster before adding any emulsion." Check out our tips on preparing walls for painting. 

"Many of us are drawn to flat finishes for their innate subtlety and discretion – but as a rule they haven’t been the most durable finish for high traffic/busy households and rooms. The rule of thumb is, the higher the sheen, the tougher the finish," continues Patrick. "Matt emulsion with a slight sheen can be used in high-traffic spaces, including kitchens and bathrooms, as it’s specially formulated for moisture-prone areas."

Using emulsion on wood

If you're wondering if you can use emulsion on wood, the answer is yes. That said, it might not be the best choice, with other paint types being better suited to this surface. "A paint designed for wood would give a longer-lasting, more durable finish," explains Steve. 

Internally, many wood finishes in homes tend to see a fair amount of wear and tear — for example skirting boards, architrave around doorways and wooden stair treads. For this reason, any paint you use on them needs to be really hardwearing. "Specialist hard-wearing emulsion is a good choice," advises Steve.

Try something like Crown Easyclean Matt Emulsion, available from Wickesor similar. These kinds of emulsion paints are formulated to allow for scrubbing and cleaning and are far more durable than standard matt emulsions.

"We have traditionally used emulsion for walls and ceilings and eggshell or gloss on wood trim," explains Patrick "However, with our new Dead Flat, apart from kitchens and bathrooms, you can use this 2% sheen on wood, metal and woodwork so you can create a seamless flow of colour in the same sheen level through a whole room for a fully immersive colour-drenching experience."

Is emulsion suitable for outdoors?

When it comes to finishing off the exterior elements of your home – tasks such as painting windows – or garden features, you need to be sure that the paint you use is suitable for the job. 

Being water-based, emulsion is generally not a great choice for outdoors as it just isn't durable enough and doesn't offer much in the way of weatherproofing. You are far better off using a specialist exterior paint. 

Should you use a roller or brush for emulsion?

When researching how to paint a room, it is useful to know that you can use either a brush or a roller to apply emulsion – although a combination of the two might be best.

"The key tools are a paint brush and roller to get the best finish," confirms Steve. "A two- or three-inch brush is ideal for cutting in at ceilings, corners, windows, doors and skirting boards.

"If you are not confident at cutting in, invest in a cutting brush like this Harris Seriously Good Walls & Ceilings Cutting In Angled Paint Brush from Amazon. The angled bristles make it easier to move the brush into edges and get a neat straight line. 

"For walls and ceilings a 9-inch roller with a medium pile is the common choice," continues Steve. "This will eliminate brush strokes, but more importantly it will greatly reduce the time it takes to paint a wall or ceiling. Plus, it will give a more even finish and use less paint.  

"To speed up the process further – and save getting up and down a ladder to reach tops of walls and ceilings – an extension pole is a smart investment."

FAQs

Is a synthetic or natural brush better for emulsion?

When buying paintbrushes you will be faced with two options: those with synthetic bristles and those with natural. But which is best for emulsion paint?

"As a general rule synthetic bristles are used for water-based paints such as emulsion, but they can also be used for other paints such as gloss, satin, eggshell etc," advises Steve Jenkins. "Unlike natural bristle paint brushes they don’t swell in water making it easier to apply, cut in and clean.

"Natural bristle brushes are typically used with oil-based paints, as often used by professional painters and decorators. They hold the paint well and disperse at an even rate, but need more control. They are harder to clean and maintain, needing a specialist brush cleaner or white spirit to get the job done."

Emulsion paint is a really versatile choice but it will really pay dividends to ensure you are choosing the right type for the project you have in mind. 

If you want a washable, hardwearing paint (say for areas of high traffic such as hallways, or in the kitchen) then a satin finish will definitely be your best option. If, on the other hand, you have an uneven surface and want a paint that will help hide imperfections, lumps and bumps, then matt is going to be a better bet — plus those wondering how to paint a wall with a roller will find a matt paint more forgiving. 

Find out what is vinyl matt paint to make sure you buy the best product for the job.