If you love wildlife, these substantial climbers are one of the best things to plant in the garden. The wall of leafy greenery provides birds with shelter and nesting sites, in turn filling your garden with song. And many also offer birds berries, as well as producing a rich supply of nectar for pollinators (such as bees) when they flower.

Get one of these gorgeous climbers in the ground and look forward to it coating your garden walls with a verdant curtain that will be alive with birdsong in no time.

1. Star jasmine

• Height: 3-6m
• Spread: 6-10m
• Best for: Urban elegance

To create a smart wall of glossy evergreen leaves, star jasmine is a superb choice. In summer, starry cream flowers fill the air with a tea scent, and in winter the leaves take on red tints.

Trachelospermum jasminoides (available from Thompson & Morgan) requires a sheltered garden wall and a mild climate. T. asiaticum (also from Thompson & Morgan) is similar, but hardier, less vigorous, and more richly scented.

Being twining climbers, they require a frame of trellis ideas, or wires to climb. Plant in fertile, well-drained soil and water regularly in hot weather until established.

2. Ivy

• Height: 6m
• Spread: 6m
• Best for: Birds

For easy evergreen coverage, ivy is one of the best plants for covering garden walls and garden fences. Self-clinging, it doesn’t require any frame to clamber up, and it offers shelter and berries for birds, as well as nectar for bees.

They are best planted in the cool semi-shade of a north or east-facing wall, where they grow lush and glossy.

Persian ivies (such as ‘Sulphur Heart’) have attractive big leaves, as does Canary Island ivy (Hedera canariensis). Plant in well-drained neutral to alkaline soil.

3. Sausage vine

• Height: 6m
• Spread: 3m
• Best for: Spring flowers

Holboellia latifolia (syn. Stauntonia latifolia) doesn’t have the most elegant of names – broad-leaved sausage vine – but it’s a superb evergreen climbing plant for pergolas, fences and walls. The substantial, dense, glossy green leaves are paired with mauve, red-purple, or cream-lime spring flowers that smell of melon and jasmine, and edible sausage-shaped purple autumn fruit.

Plant in fertile, retentive, well-drained soil against a sheltered wall in sun. In cold areas, it is only semi-evergreen. Prune after flowering to keep its vigour in check.

4. Climbing hydrangea

• Height: 6-12m
• Spread: 2-3m
• Best for: Semi-shade

Pileostegia viburnoides will clothe a wall in semi-shade with glossy evergreen leaves and fleecy ivory flowers whose nectar makes them great plants for pollinators in late summer and early autumn.

Other self-clinging climbing hydrangeas to consider for a wall in semi-shade include Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris, which has huge lacy flowerheads during summer; it is hardy, but deciduous. H. seemannii is evergreen, but requires a sheltered wall in a mild area. They are all slow to establish, but live for years and are well worth the wait.

5. True jasmine

• Height: 3-12m
• Spread: 3m
• Best for: Scent

For romantics, this ancient climber beats fashionable star jasmine hands down: the heart-stopping scent of the starry white flowers hangs in the air on summer nights, and it is no surprise that it’s used by the perfume industry. In mild areas, it is evergreen and vigorous.

Jasminum officinale ‘Devon Cream’ (available at B&Q) has buttermilk flowers; J. officinale f. affine has large pink-tinted white blooms.

Grow jasmine in well-drained soil against a sheltered sunny backyard wall or front garden wall. Avoid hard pruning if possible. In cold areas, protect the base with horticultural fleece in winter.

6. Firethorn

• Height: 3m
• Spread: 3m
• Best for: Autumn colour

Pyracantha is a fantastic evergreen shrub for growing against walls and one of the best plants for wildlife gardens. It provides birds with shelter, as well as food when it is a mass of berries in autumn; and it offers bees nectar-rich ivory blossom during early summer

Saphyr Orange (available from Crocus) has blazing-orange berries and Saphyr Rouge (also from Crocus) has red berries. Plant against a wall in sun or semi-shade in well-drained, fertile soil. Prune after flowering and wear gloves and long sleeves because the thorny stems are very sharp!

7. Winter jasmine

• Height: 3m
• Spread: 3m
• Best for: Winter colour

Jasminum nudiflorum is a deciduous shrub with long, arching green stems that look great trained over a wall. From winter to early spring, it is covered in bright yellow flowers; unlike the flowers of true jasmine, they are not scented, but they inject much-needed cheer and colour under the bleak grey winter sky.

Allow it to tumble in a waterfall over the top of a wall or clip it (after flowering) against a wall, facade, or porch. It is happiest in fertile, well-drained soil in sheltered sun or semi-shade.

8. Mountain clematis

• Height: 3.5-9m
• Spread: 1-6m
• Best for: Cottage gardens

Clematis montana is a gorgeous, vigorous climber that fills the air with a vanilla-clove scent when its pink or white flowers bloom in early summer. It is deciduous, but when the bronze leaves fall, they reveal a dense, twiggy frame that will still cover the wall.

Blush pink ‘Mayleen’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) is enormous; ‘Miss Christine’ (white) is big; and ‘Van Gogh’ (cherry pink) is less vigorous.

For best results, plant them in well-drained, fertile soil in sun or semi-shade, but ensure the roots are shaded (for example by a shrub). Prune after flowering.

9. Passion flower

• Height: 10m
• Spread: 3.5m
• Best for: Exotic style

The fabulous blooms of passion flower are straight out of the jungle and make one of the best tropical plants. Their flowers are produced in abundance from early summer into autumn. Evergreen in warm climates, it will easily clad a large wall if given a frame (such as wires or trellis) to twine itself to.

The hardiest, Passiflora caerulea (available from Thompson & Morgan), still benefits from a sunny, sheltered wall. It has white and purple blooms and orange egg-shaped fruit. ‘Amethyst’ is not as hardy and has pale-purple flowers. Plant in moist, well-drained soil.

10. Pineapple broom

• Height: 4-5m
• Spread: 3-4m
• Best for: Sun

A joyous wall shrub for a sunny wall, Argyrocytisus battandieri (syn. Cytisus battandieri) produces enormous bright-yellow flowerheads that smell deliciously of pineapple. These are borne in summer above attractive green-grey leaves.

The more compact variety 'Yellow Tail’ has flower cones that reach 17cm long and attract bees. Hailing from the Atlas Mountains of Morocco, this drought-tolerant plant (which can be evergreen in mild areas) needs very well-drained soil and a sheltered sun-baked wall.

11. Camellia

• Height: 4m
• Spread: 3m
• Best for: Acid soil

Camellias are large shrubs with dark, glossy evergreen leaves and large red, pink, or white flowers in winter or spring. They are good screening plants, live for a long time and some types of camellias can be grown as wall shrubs – especially C. x williamsii, which is hardier than most and flowers well from an early age.

‘J.C. Williams’ (soft-pink) and ‘E.T.R. Carlyon’ (white, available from Thompson & Morgan) are upright, spreading Williamsii varieties that bloom in spring. Grow camellias in well-drained, humus-rich acid soil against a sheltered wall in semi-shade. Prune lightly after flowering, if necessary.

12. Roses

• Height: 3.5m
• Spread: 3m
• Best for: Summer flowers

The romantic, buxom blooms of climbing roses fill the air with scent on summer days. There are vigorous forms for tall walls and less rampant varieties of plants for covering walls for lower garden boundaries. All are deciduous, but over time the stems can be trained into an attractive pattern for winter interest. You can also plant your roses in pots in front of a garden wall to achieve a similar screening effect.

Étoile de Hollande’ (crimson-red) is a fabulous choice for a sunny wall, while ’Madame Alfred Carrière’ (pink-white, available from Thompson & Morgan) is perfect for a shadier spot. Provide trellis or wires to tie the rose to. Prune in mid-late winter to maintain health and flower power.

FAQs

What is the name for a plant that can grow up a wall?

Climbing plants scale walls. If you don’t want to attach trellis or wires to the wall for a climber to twine around or be tied to, it’s best to purchase a ‘self-clinging’ climber (such as ivy), which will attach itself well without any additional help.

How do you cover a brick wall with plants?

If you’re not choosing a self-clinging climber, add a frame for climbing plants to scale the brick wall. Wooden trellis can rot over time, so a tensioning system of wires is arguably better. The wires either need to tighten themselves as the plant grows or be easy for you to tighten (via turnbuckles, for instance).

Opt for plants that complement the colour of the brick too. For example, the climbing rose 'Madame Alfred Carrière’ has blush-white flowers that look good against red brick, and the rose 'Ghislaine de Féligonde’ has soft-apricot blooms that would suit pink brick.

To give your plant the best possible chance of thriving and covering your garden wall effectively, it's important to select one that suits your garden soil type, the planting spot and space available, as well as the general growing conditions. Make sure you read the planting information carefully before purchasing to avoid costly mistakes further down the line.

And if you are a fan of low-maintenance gardening make sure you go for a variety that won't require lots of ongoing upkeep.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Planting a tree with berries will provide birds with a place to roost and plenty to feast on, plus give you the pleasure of watching the birds in action too. Berry- and fruit-bearing trees also provide food for a range of insects and animals. Mice, hedgehogs, badgers, squirrels and foxes will all happily feed on them.

Whether you're searching for evergreen shrubs or trees with berries or a compact option for smaller plots, there are plenty to choose from. Varieties of tree like rowan, holly, spindle and hawthorn are especially good for attracting flocks of birds and the berries are gorgeous to look at too.

1. Wild cherry

In spring this is one of the best flowering trees as it's covered in white blossom to brighten up and beautify any garden. Then later in the year, the wild cherry (also known as the bird cherry) has lots of small, bright red cherries that are absolutely loved by birds of all varieties.

Autumn leaf colour includes spectacular shades of red, yellow and orange. The colour of the ripe fruit is quite variable on different trees, and can be yellow, scarlet or so dark red it almost looks black. The cherries are loved by blackbirds and thrushes, as well as badgers, squirrels and mice.

Wild cherry trees are quick growing, reaching 8m in 10 years. Young trees tend to be upright, but as the tree starts to mature it develops a more spreading habit.

Cherry trees are tolerant of most garden soil types, but need to be planted in full sun to encourage flowering and fruiting.

2. Crab apple

As one of the best trees for small gardens, versatile crab apple trees are so easy to grow you'll wonder why you never planted one before. They make a beautiful ornamental addition to any garden, with a dramatic display of flowers in spring and fabulous foliage in summer.

They're good pollinators too as they produce blossom for a long period of time. Crab apples also have heavy crops of fruit in autumn and winter that birds love.

They benefit from being planted in full sun. Planting them in a sheltered spot also helps them put greater resources into flowering.

The majority of crab apples grow into medium-sized trees, typically reaching an eventual height of about 3-4m tall.

3. Holly

Holly trees offer you the flexibility of choosing a large or small tree depending on the size of your outdoor space. As well as bigger trees, they come as smaller versions you can clip into small rounded shapes.

In winter, the holly tree is a reliable choice with its glossy green foliage and bright red berries. There are many different types of holly tree to choose from and the berries provide food for a range of birds. As it's evergreen, it can be one of the best trees for privacy too.

Hollies are easy to grow in sun or partial shade, and prefer moist but well-drained soil. The variegated varieties keep their colours better in full sun. They don’t need much pruning either. They can grow as tall as 15m but are generally around 8-12m tall.

4. Spindle

This small tree (also known as Euonymus europaeus) is a delight in the autumn and winter garden. It has large oval mid-green leaves that turn crimson in autumn, star-shaped green flowers in late spring, and masses of crimson-pink fruit in winter that split to reveal orange seeds.

The wood was traditionally used for making spindles, hence the name. It really comes into its own in winter gardens, when it's covered in clusters of gorgeous, orange-pink berries that remain long after the blazing scarlet leaves have fallen. It will grow to an eventual height of around 2.5-4m.

The spindle tree enjoys a position in full sun or partial shade, in any well-drained soil. It looks stunning in winter underplanted with early spring bulbs. Wildlife loves its leaves and fruit, especially robins, so it’s one of the best trees with berries if you want to give a boost to biodiversity in your garden.

5. Hawthorn

The glossy deep red berries of hawthorn are the star of the show in autumn and winter, while in spring it’s covered in a mass of flowers. The berries are popular with birds like starlings, finches, blue tits and thrushes, who love tucking in to them. When the trees grow bigger they also have wonderfully gnarled trunks.

Hawthorns are ideal for small gardens as they grow anything from 4.5-9m tall, which makes them the perfect size for urban spaces. They grow in any soil, in sun or partial shade, and need little maintenance.

They are a good choice if you're interested in sustainable gardens too as where there are hawthorns wildlife inevitably follows. Birds will hoover up the berries so they attract wildlife to your garden in addition to looking good.

For one of the best small trees with berries around, Crataegus orientalis is an especially ornate variety of hawthorn. It has a pleasing round-shaped crown and is laden with large orange haws.

6. Cotoneaster

As well as being a popular garden shrub there are larger varieties of cotoneaster that grow into trees. These form a rounded to wide-spreading head of slender branches with long, narrow, dark green leaves and prolific white flowers in spring, followed by red, orange or yellow berries that stay on the tree right through winter and are much-loved by wildlife.

Cotoneaster trees grow to a height of around 8m. Best planted in full sun and well-drained soil, they tolerate cooler and drier climates, and require very little attention once established.

7. Rowan

Rowans are one of the prettiest trees with berries. Also known as mountain ash and Sorbus aucuparia, rowans are easy-to-grow trees that do best on well-drained, fertile soil, and don’t like clay or waterlogged conditions. They prefer an open sunny site, but can handle some shade and generally aren’t that fussy.

Rowans grow to an eventual height of around 6m. The berries start to appear from July to November, depending on which variety you choose, and they last well into the winter months.

Blackbirds, thrushes and starlings love feasting on gorgeous rowan berries, making it a great way of attracting birds to your garden in winter.

8. Juniper

Juniper is a popular ornamental tree for its long-season interest, ability to grow in most regions, and carefree nature. With shapes ranging from ground-hugging bushes to much larger trees, there’s one to suit every garden.

Juniper berries are a food source for songbirds and other wildlife, keeping them sustained in winter. The plant’s dense branches shield birds from cold winds and protect their nesting sites.

Female plants will not fruit unless a male plant is nearby. Female cones develop a fleshy berry-like appearance, starting out green and maturing to blue, while male ones resemble miniature pine cones.

Tolerant of most soils, junipers prefer slightly acidic, organically rich soil with good drainage. They need little to no pruning to keep their natural shape. In early spring, cut out any dead branches, trim back wayward growth and lightly shape.

9. Winterberry

This deciduous tree is multi-stemmed, with an upright, rounded growth habit. It has clusters of greenish-white flowers in early summer and cherry-red berries from autumn through winter.

It’s actually a type of holly (Ilex verticillata) that’s loved by birds for its brilliant red berries.

Winterberry shrubs have leathery dark, green leaves that turn yellow and purple in autumn. They like growing in wet soil, prefer full sun or part shade.

Ilex verticillata is available from Gardening Express.

10. Elderberry

One of the best bird attracting plants, elderberry is a fantastic choice for your garden. This deciduous tree grows up to 4m tall depending on variety, and produces clumps of berries in late summer to early autumn, which act as a bird magnet.

The shrubby nature of elderberry foliage also makes it a suitable nesting spot for some birds. Due to its manageable size and ability to attract birds elderberry is a must if you're keen on boosting the wildlife in your garden.

Also known as sambucus, this beautiful shrub features long, arching branches. In early summer, it has clusters of flat white flowers that turn into the purple berries that birds love in autumn.

This tree is good if the soil in your garden tends to get waterlogged because it thrives in damp conditions.

FAQs

How do trees with berries benefit birds and wildlife?

Berries are an important food source for many birds in winter, especially when the ground is too frozen for them to hunt worms or snails, and there are few insects about to forage for.

If you can attract birds by planting trees with berries you will be doing your bit to help. "Some birds, like song and mistle thrushes, blackbirds, redwings and fieldfares, find most of their winter food from berries," say the experts at the RSPB.

Most berries are either red or black. This makes the berries easier for birds to find them. "Evergreens, and plants that produce berries when their leaves are still green, generally produce red berries, which show up well against a green background," explain the experts at the RSPB. "Black berries are thought to show up better against leaves that have turned yellow or brown."

What kind of tree has little red berries?

• Firethorn Also known as pyracantha, these red berries grow in such dense clusters that the tree can actually appear to be red when you see it from a distance. Pyracantha Saphyr Rouge ('Cadrou') is available from Crocus.
• Barberry These oval-shaped berries grow on thorny bushes and hang from the twigs like pretty ornaments.
• Holly One of the most popular decorative trees around, their small, bright red berries are synonymous with Christmas.
• Red elderberry The red coastal elderberry (Sambucus callicarpa) blooms in spring before producing small red berries from summer right through winter.

Trees with red berries are a common sight in autumn and winter and the perfect way to add colour, texture and interest to your garden during the colder months.

If you want to get prepared for the cooler weather ahead, our guide to getting your garden ready for winter is a great place to start.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

With such a wide range of heights, colours, and textures available, there are plenty of ways grasses can be used in landscaping ideas – no matter the size of your plot.

Whether you're looking to give a plain pathway a more magical feel, screen a seating space from view, or simply give your borders a boost, an ornamental grass or two can be a winning solution.

1. Uses grasses to create a natural screen for your seating space

One of the key benefits of many types of ornamental grasses is their height. Because of this, they add instant vertical interest and can come in handy if you're on the lookout for subtle garden screening ideas.

For instance, this roof terrace uses tall, contemporary planters to line the perimeter of the space. Not only does it add a soothing shot of greenery to an urban plot, but it also ups the sense of privacy, obscuring neighbouring windows from view.

It's the perfect backdrop for creating a tranquil slice of paradise in an inner-city garden. And, the soft rustle as they move in the breeze will only add to the sense of calm.

2. Add height and texture alongside paths

Garden paths are a must-have feature for most. Of course, they're practical – getting you from A to B – but they can also affect the overall experience of being in your plot. For example, winding pathways lined with tall, billowing grasses, like in this scheme above, will add a sense of intrigue and playfulness to the space.

We love how the variety of different heights and hues creates a breathtaking tapestry. And, of course, a look like this is great for encouraging wildlife to your garden, too.

3. Soften a modern scheme

Every patio needs some gorgeous paving ideas for a sturdy and beautiful base. But if you find your stretch of hard landscaping a little severe, an easy solution is to add soft grasses.

In this stunning scene, all different varieties are used to bring texture and cool, green tones to pared-back planters. Used on all sides, they cocoon the space, defining the perfect zone for entertaining. Opting for a chic grey colour scheme for the furniture adds to the on-trend look.

4. Mix grasses with blooms for prairie-style flowerbeds

Drought-tolerant plants are becoming more popular in garden design for several reasons. First, they're easy to maintain – which is good news for those of us with busy lives. And second, they're a practical and sustainable approach in response to climate change. Plus, the prairie-style look that can be achieved is nothing short of stunning.

Landscaping with grasses is therefore a great way to bring this trend into your own plot, as most will thrive without much water. Interspersed with blooms such as echinacea and kniphofia, you can create a gorgeous border or flowerbed that is sure to capture your attention all through summer and late into autumn.

5. Use grasses to zone spaces

As well as creating taller screens for privacy, ornamental grasses can also be used for more subtle garden divider ideas.

In the above scheme, Pennisetum alopecuroides 'Hameln' – otherwise known as fountain grass – creates an attractive divide between a lawn and an outdoor kitchen, while maintaining an open and airy feel.

What's more, this type of grass tends to hold its form throughout winter. We love how it's been used alongside hydrangeas for an interesting, textural display.

6. Surround a pond with grasses for a natural feel

Whatever their size, garden ponds are a beautiful, sensory feature to bring into your scheme. Adding plenty of ornamental grasses around the edges will help them blend into their surroundings and create a more naturalistic vibe. Such planting will also provide a safe space for frogs, newts, and other visiting wildlife.

If you have the space, adding a bridge, boulders, and even a waterfall will all add to the enchanting atmosphere – a great way to recreate a relaxing woodland setting right in your own garden.

Adding a destination point, such as this gazebo, is also a lovely finishing touch for sitting and admiring the view.

7. Opt for the unusual with black grasses

Black mondo grass, also known as Ophiopogon planiscapus, is ideal for modern garden schemes due to its striking appearance.

Use it to line patios or pathways, as seen here, for a unique look. Keep the surrounding colour scheme dark and moody, or opt for brights that will pop against the deep hue. And, as this plant is evergreen, it'll hold your interest all through the colder months, too.

8. Elevate a gravel garden

Gravel gardens and ornamental grasses are perfect partners and we love how they work together in this garden scheme. Note how a palette of purple tones has been used for a sense of harmony, while the odd splash of yellow – purple's complementary hue – keeps it feeling fresh and balanced.

We also like the organic form of planting, which loosely defines a path and seating area, creating a relaxed and immersive vibe. Spot the rosemary too, which will add a delicious fragrance to the scene.

9. Introduce different heights of grasses for different purposes

Grasses are so versatile that they can be used in different ways in the same plot. For instance, compact, tuft-like varieties are used as garden edging ideas in this space – defining the boundary of a paved zone from a modern water feature. Planting them spaciously in this way highlights their form and the cheery golden hue against the surrounding stone.

Beyond, a taller type of grass has been used to surround a sheltered space, drawing the eye upwards and making a more distinct feature of the pergola.

10. Create a contrast against hard landscaping features

In this garden design, wispy, elegant grasses have been added to the perennial bed, which instantly elevates it and offers a wilder feel. But we particularly love the contrast it provides against the smart built-in bench and garden wall nearby – it's the perfect balancer against such sleek and modern hardscaping.

FAQs

How do you group ornamental grasses in your landscaping?

If you're looking to use more than one variety of grass in your garden, it's important to group them together depending on their growing needs. For instance, Japanese forest grass and sedge plants both do well in dappled shade and moist garden soil types, while most stipa and miscanthus grasses like full sun.

Think about how the grasses will look when planted together too, by considering colours, heights, and textures. Opting for a varied mix will create a more dramatic impact. And, remember to plant taller varieties towards the back of borders so that you can appreciate the smaller types fully.

As shown in the looks above, landscaping with grasses can also be done to define zones, or elevate existing features such as paths. You can add them to planters, too. And the best part is, looking after them is incredibly simple: most need little water, pruning, or feeding, making them a perfect choice for a low-maintenance garden.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

But choosing any aspect of your driveway design purely for its appearance can be a mistake. Some options look great but aren't designed to cope with the daily pressure of cars driving over them. The best choice needs to work with both the style of your drive and the way you use it.

We asked landscaping and paving experts for their favourite driveway edging ideas, as well as the common mistakes they see homeowners make.

1. Use brick edging to create a crisp line between the drive and lawn

On a large gravel driveway, especially one that curves generously around a lawn like this, edging has a big job to do. Every time a car turns in or out, gravel gets pushed sideways, and without a firm border, it can end up scattered across the lawn rather than staying put.

"Gravel needs a firm, raised edge because otherwise the stones gradually migrate into paths and borders, so brick, concrete kerbs or steel edging all work well," explains Scott Godfrey, construction trade consultant at Black Hammer.

Here, a simple run of brick edging follows the curve of the drive on both sides, keeping the gravel neatly contained while echoing the reclaimed brick used on the house itself. It's an easy way to tie your driveway ideas back into the wider property, rather than letting it read as a separate, purely functional space.

2. Contrast a brick edge with natural stone for added interest

Where a driveway meets a paved area rather than a lawn, a slimmer brick edge can be used to create contrast rather than simply contain the material.

Here, the warm, reddish tone of this brick sits nicely against pale natural stone garden paving and the mitred corner is a small but important detail, as it keeps the line sharp, rather than leaving a visible joint for gravel to work its way through over time.

3. Opt for slim steel edging for a modern look

Not every driveway edge needs to be a visual feature in its own right. For example, where planting is doing a lot of the heavy lifting in your garden design – as with this hedge spilling over a bed of dark chippings – a slim, low-profile steel edge is often the better choice. It can follow a tight curve easily, sitting almost flush with the ground, and disappearing from view once the greenery grows in.

"Sometimes the simplest edging looks the best," says Tony Reynolds, home maintenance expert at Supreme Merchants. "You don't need loads of different materials or anything too fancy, just something that works with the driveway and the house. Think of it as the frame around the driveway. It should make everything look finished without becoming the main feature."

Steel is also one of the few materials that copes well with sharp curves without needing to be cut into short, awkward sections, which is worth knowing if your driveway or borders aren't dead straight.

4. Use planting to soften the edges of a driveway

Where the driveway material is already solid and self-contained – like block paving – edging can instead be used to soften hard lines and bring some life to what might otherwise be a long, featureless expanse.

Here, a low kerb keeps the paving neatly separated from the beds, but it's the planting beyond it doing most of the visual work with layers of ornamental grasses, shrubs and lavender following the curve of the drive and changing colour and texture as the eye moves along it. It's a good approach for a long or sweeping driveway, where a single strip of one material can start to feel monotonous.

5. Keep things low-key with a low block kerb

On a development like this, where several homes share a single sweeping driveway, edging shouldn't try too hard to draw attention to itself. A plain block kerb keeps things low profile, following the curve of the drive past each property and holding the gravel in place, all while doubling up as lawn edging and giving the grass either side a clean, defined line to be mown against.

It's a deliberately understated choice, and that's precisely the point. Against the dark timber cladding and pale bricks of these houses, anything more decorative would compete rather than complement. Instead, a low kerb reads as part of the landscaping.

5. Combine edging with a low retaining wall

Where a driveway runs alongside a raised bed or a slight change in level, edging often needs to serve the roll of holding the ground back too. A low retaining wall solves both problems at once, by keeping soil and planting from spilling onto the paving, while giving the driveway itself a solid, level edge to butt up against.

This kind of approach is particularly useful on a sloping driveway, where the ground either side often sits higher than the paved surface itself. Here, a run of textured stone blockwork follows the curve of the drive beneath a dense hedge and mature shrubs, holding the higher ground firmly in place without needing a steep, awkward bank.

6. Let a paved front path double as the edge itself

Rather than adding a separate strip of edging alongside a front path, it's worth asking whether the path itself can double as a border. Here, a wide run of dark paving tiles traces the line of the house, giving residents a proper, dry route from the drive to the front door while also containing the gravel to one side and neatly framing the planters and stone facade to the other.

This is a particularly good solution where a driveway runs close to the building itself, as it avoids gravel being walked straight up to the threshold, and it means only one material needs to be laid and maintained rather than two. Just make sure you choose a paving material that can handle both foot traffic and the odd wheelbarrow or bin being dragged across it, since a path doing double duty as edging will see more use than a purely decorative border.

7. Illuminate driveway edging with low-level lighting

It pays to factor driveway lighting ideas into your overall design from the start – after all, you don't want to lose sight of your drive once the sun goes down.

There's no shortage of ways to work lighting into an edge or border. Bollard lights are a popular choice for marking a clear line along a driveway's length, while recessed ground lights can sit flush with paving for a more discreet finish.

Spotlights tucked into planting can be angled up to pick out foliage and texture, and for a softer glow, LED strip lighting can be run along the underside of a raised edge or kerb, washing light downward rather than out.

8. Use a contrasting border to define a resin driveway

"For resin driveways, edging really comes into its own," says Johnny Pearce, co-founder of Oltco. "Block paving, natural stone, brick or concrete can all complement a resin bound surface beautifully, and choosing a contrasting colour creates a clearly defined border that enhances the overall finish."

Here, a light resin strip traces the boundary between drive and pavement, while a run of dark block paving defines the edge nearest the house, giving the driveway a crisp finish without any loose material to contain.

Resin also gives homeowners more design freedom than gravel or block paving alone. Johnny suggests using edging to "create a contrasting border, a pathway, or a defined parking area." Try pairing two contrasting materials, mixing colours within the same range, or adding a double border to pick out both the drive's shape and the edge of a path or entrance.

Whichever combination you choose, keep it in proportion. "The key is balance," says Johnny. "The edging you choose should enhance and frame the driveway, not overpower it."

9. Match materials for a seamless finish

With block paving, the easiest way to get edging right is often to match it to the paving itself, rather than introducing a contrasting material that competes with it.

Of course, the right choice of material will depend on the style of your property. As Paul Kerr, building specialist and buyer at Beatson's Building Supplies, explains: "Ultimately you want the choice of material to accent the wider design of the driveway or entrance to your home, whilst of course being practical. Natural granite or cobble edging is elegant enough to partner well with more traditional homes."

For modern driveways, Paul suggests a different approach entirely: "resin and aluminium edging work well for sleek, modern builds, as they leave a clean, invisible line." A darker charcoal or graphite driveway and matching kerb would achieve a similar effect.

10. Use decorative stones as a rustic, budget-friendly edge

Turning a cottage garden into a driveway could damage kerb appeal, and for a rural property like this, anything too neat or manufactured would sit awkwardly against the setting. Instead, a simple line of large, irregular stones marks the boundary between gravel and lawn. It's enough to stop the two materials blurring into one another, without imposing a rigid, formal line, and it's a low-cost, low-effort option too.

Rather than laying edging on a prepared base, stones like these can simply be positioned by hand and adjusted as needed, making it a realistic weekend project for anyone after cheap driveway ideas. The irregular spacing and varied sizes here also mean the "edge" reads more as a natural feature than a hard boundary, which suits a gravel driveway particularly well.

FAQs

What's the best material for driveway edging?

There isn't a single best material, it depends on your driveway surface, how the space is used, and the look you're going for. Still, Paul Kerr from Beatson's Building Supplies recommends choosing edging based on how much wear it will realistically face.

"Driveways with heavy traffic, or those in particularly damp or rainy areas, should always avoid perishable materials such as timber," he explains. "Strength and longevity are key for those." In quieter, more sheltered settings, though, he says there's room to be more experimental – oak sleepers, for instance, "add some rustic charm" – where hard-wearing performance matters less.

Does driveway edging affect drainage?

Yes, and it's an easy detail to overlook. "A raised perimeter edge without gaps or drainage grates will cause flooding when it rains," warns Paul Kerr. Edging that sits slightly proud of the surrounding ground can trap water rather than letting it disperse, so it's worth building in gaps or grates at regular intervals to allow water through.

Paul also recommends thinking about driveway drainage early rather than retrofitting it. "You should install the edging early, immediately after your sub-base or flooring is set," he says. "Installing the edging early not only helps define the driveway's line and framework, but also determines where drainage gaps can be placed." On larger or non-permeable driveways, it's also worth checking whether your edging design will interfere with any soakaways or drainage channels feeding water away from the surface.

What's the most common mistake people make with driveway edging?

Installing it too shallow is a frequent culprit. "If it's only sitting lightly in the soil, it may look fine at first but it won't resist the weight and sideways pressure from vehicles for long," warns Scott Godfrey from Black Hammer. "The base underneath matters just as much as the visible edging, so it needs to be properly prepared and supported rather than simply pushed into place."

It's also worth taking your time marking it out too. According to Tony Reynolds from Supreme Merchants, "If your line is slightly off, it's going to be very obvious once the whole driveway is finished."

How high should driveway edging be?

There's a balance to strike. Too low and it won't do its job of containing gravel or protecting the driveway's edge; too high and it becomes awkward to navigate.

"I'd be careful not to make the edge too high because that can create a trip hazard or make opening car doors awkward," says Scott Godfrey. "Before fixing anything permanently, drive onto the driveway a few times and pay attention to where tyres naturally pass. That'll tell you where the edging needs to be strongest."

If you're planning on laying a gravel driveway, sorting your edging first will save a lot of hassle later, and keep your gravel where it should be. It's worth building into your driveway costs from the start, rather than treating it as an extra once the main job's done.

Choose long-lasting plants like winter-flowering pansies, cyclamen and heather mixed with interesting foliage varieties to make sure your displays have staying power right through the season. Whether you like structured and formal planting ideas or a more naturalistic style you will find fresh inspiration in our selection.

Window boxes can be a key element of your front garden ideas, so follow our expert suggestions to make sure you embrace seasonal planting and nail the look this autumn.

1. Choose gold and orange autumn colours

Bronzy oranges matched with pale yellow works well as a colour combination for both autumn garden planter ideas and window boxes. This bright and beautiful copper and bronze mix of burnt orange, apricot and pale lemon winter flowering pansies paired with sunny yellow primulas just sums up the mood for autumn.

The foliage combination adds texture and shape too, with heart-shaped lamium leaves and pale green feathery dwarf conifers acting as fillers in the centre of the display, while tendrils of trailing ivy complete the look. The joy of these is that you can keep them going for ages to offer structure and texture in your window box, simply switching in fresh colour as and when you need to freshen up your seasonal porch ideas.

Plants like pansies can be used both for spring and autumn containers to prolong your window box show, and will flower for months. Just remember to keep snipping off any faded flowers to keep the show going.

2. Opt for a classic white window box design

When combined with crisp green foliage white flowers offer a polished look for autumn window boxes. As autumn turns to winter they will add a bright gleam to your display, especially on darker days. Another plus is that they go with anything and will partner seamlessly with the exterior of your house.

One of the best plants for winter pots, beautiful cyclamen deliver for months on end. Choose a hardy variety called Cyclamen coum or Cyclamen hederifolium (available at Thompson & Morgan). Ready-grown plants are widely available and will instantly uplift window boxes.

Other white flowers to choose from that work well for your autumn window boxes include pansies, primulas, heather and hellebores. You can also layer in white bulbs to the mix, and these will pop up in spring. Good choices to include are crocuses (such as this 'Jeanne D'Arc' variety from Dobies), white muscari and paper whites.

3. Introduce shape and texture to your autumn window box

The garden trend for naturalistic looking planting extends to autumn window box ideas too. If you prefer a less structured look this is your chance to wild up your window boxes.

Opt for a combination of feathery grasses, purple ornamental cabbages and one or two dark blooms chosen from an autumnal colour palette for a perfect interpretation of the rich, deep tones of autumn. Try weaving lightweight twigs across the surface of the soil as a finishing touch.

Use button chrysanthemums in shades of bronze and copper as a filler, together with ivy at the heart of your display. Chrysanthemums are one of our top choices if you're looking for ideas on what to plant in September, and they're definitely back in fashion in a big way. An autumn classic, they come in shades of burnt orange, burgundy red and golden yellow. They can be grown in partial shade or full sun, and are the perfect filler plant for window boxes.

Popular in autumn gardens, flowering ornamental cabbage has lush frilled purple and green leaves for a show-stopping look that works in window boxes too. They love full sun but can dry out easily, so keep them well-watered even in cool weather.

Stunning red fountain grass has dark feathery foliage that adds a textural note to fall window box ideas. It's one of the best types of ornamental grass for your display as its height means it's a good 'thriller' plant.

4. Go for modern industrial-style window boxes

These compact ribbed garden planters are ideal if you're looking for something stylish to show off your plants. Choose galvanised metal if you're looking for an urban vibe and stack them up together to work the look.

If you're putting your window boxes in a sheltered spot think about planting them up with succulents or herbs to extend your growing season. If you choose a style like these ones that don't have a drainage hole you can easily transfer them indoors when bad weather threatens, especially as they're lightweight too.

Shop window box planters for autumn displays

5. Add a pumpkin or two to your window box for a seasonal update

If you're not sure what to put in your autumn window box, try a little bit of everything. An ivy-covered wreath anchors this scheme centre stage, while Phormium 'Baby Bronze' adds architectural detail with its pointy purple-bronze foliage making it a perfect specimen plant.

Ornamental peppers will add vibrant colour and interesting shapes to your container garden. Winter-fruiting Christmas cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) is another great window box plant. This small, upright, bushy, evergreen shrub has long-lasting red, yellow or orange berry-like fruit. Finally a trailing plant helps to soften the edges for that spiller effect.

This is a look that can easily be switched up for your outdoor Halloween decor by tucking small pumpkins into your existing display.

6. Extend summer with an autumn window box

If your summer window boxes and planters were a real success don't be too keen to tip the plants into the compost bin as there are lots that will happily keep going into autumn.

Pelargoniums are very robust and easy to care for, with a long flowering season that means they bloom well into autumn. "This makes them the ideal choice for planters and window boxes on balconies, patios, terraces and other areas close to the house where you want to enjoy your outdoor space for as long as possible," says Dr Suzanne Lux of Pelargonium for Europe.

Plant expert Sarah Raven is also a big fan of pelargoniums. "One of my favourites for window boxes is to use the pollinator-friendly pelargoniums with scented leaves, such as ‘Attar of Roses’, which has the most delicious rosy fragrance. The flowers are edible, and you can use the leaves for cordials and teas too." It flowers until the end of November too.

7. Match your autumn window box to your home's exterior

If you love the idea of personalising your autumn window box to match the exterior of your home you will be spoilt for choice. "External features such as window ledges, window frames and window boxes can all be painted with the same shade of masonry paint to create a uniform look," says Matthew Brown, technical consultant at Sadolin & Sandtex.

A smart look like this demands smart planting to go with it. Some of the best plants for window boxes include hebe and thyme as they can be clipped into naturally compact balls. Mix in some pale lemon primroses to add a touch of colour that's a perfect fit with a muted colour palette.

If you're working your way through your September gardening checklist be sure to check over your window boxes to see if they need a fresh coat of paint to better set off a new planting display.

8. Make an autumn planting display pop against black

Autumn window boxes can be hung from fences, walls and sheds too, so this is your opportunity to frame your best displays against a dramatic backdrop of colour. Black-painted garden fences make the perfect canvas to let your window box planting take centre stage.

Bringing black in as a colour for containers really gives you that lovely, modern feel, especially when paired with pink planting for a colour combo that pops every time.

9. Choose plants that will last through autumn and beyond

Choose a vibrant colour palette for your autumn window box if you like more impact from your planting. Deep tones of pink are a good option as it's easy to match up different varieties of plant in the same colourway, plus of course pink always makes an impact.

Easy going winter heather should be central to your ideas and the good news is it comes in a multitude of pink shades. With evergreen foliage and pretty, long-lasting bell-shaped flowers, heather offers an instant lift and is readily available in garden centres.

Try mixing heather with another window box classic like cyclamen, which also comes in a huge range of pink tones and is equally long lasting so it's a good fit.

10. Double the effect by layering up the look

For pops of jewel-bright velvety colour you can't beat a combination of violas and anemones. "I passionately recommend this winter and spring-flowering pair for any sheltered window box," says Sarah Raven. "The lovely viola will flower soon after planting and continues for month after month, joined by this new huge saucer-flowered anemone from late winter to early summer."

Choose a highly scented variety of viola that's winter and spring flowering. They are perfect for a window ledge, doorstep pots and other containers. Violas prefer cool, protected, partial shade, especially in summer months with moist, but free-draining soil or compost.

As a final suggestion, if you already have a herb garden in your window boxes consider leaving them to see how they do when it gets cooler. Chives, sage, thyme and rosemary will all hold up well even when it gets frosty.

Sarah Raven suggests planting mint in window boxes, as well as ornamental sage like Salvia viridis ‘Blue’, which lasts right into autumn in mild gardens. "Try Rosemary prostratus too, which has cascading, evergreen foliage or ‘Tuscan Blue’, which flowers in late winter and early spring and sometimes again in autumn. Whether for one large window box, or a succession of several over the front on the sunny side of your house, this combination would be perfectly on trend and beautiful."

If you want to plant other crops to see you through autumn and winter, our suggestions for vegetables to plant in September should guarantee you a plentiful harvest for the months ahead.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

But with so many sizes, shapes and materials to choose from, knowing which option is best for you, and where to buy it, can feel a little daunting.

That’s where we come in, rounding up six of our favourite retailers, along with our top shopping picks that will look discreet and stylish in any garden design.

Where to buy garden furniture covers

Unsure where to begin your search for garden furniture covers? Below, you'll find the best online and in-store retailers that stock them in an array of styles, prices, shapes and sizes.

• B&Q: From budget-friendly to premium options, have your pick of a range of garden furniture covers
• Amazon: Find hundreds of leading brands all in one place, with the convenience of next-day delivery
• Argos: Offers a great selection of covers, starting from just £8.10
• Robert Dyas: Browse through hundreds of garden furniture covers from this trusty British retailer
• Dunelm: The perfect place for finding affordable covers, with same-day click-and-collect available
• Garden Trading: Ideal for shoppers who don’t mind spending a little more for premium quality

B&Q

Whether you have awkward L-shaped sofas or garden swings as part of your patio ideas, B&Q offers hundreds of cover options to fit all types of furniture, starting at a very reasonable £6.99. Some click-and-collect options are also available if you can’t wait for delivery.

Amazon

Boasting quite literally thousands of covers, Amazon is king if you want as many options as possible, and need to beat the bad weather with fast delivery through Amazon Prime. There’s also the added bonus of free returns if you order the wrong size.

Argos

If your budget-friendly small garden ideas mean you only have a limited amount left for furniture protection as well, Argos has a mix of wallet-friendly (as well as more premium) options including popular brands like VonHaus. All are available online or in-store.

Robert Dyas

A trusty household brand for more than 150 years, Robert Dyas is the place to go for all things homeware – and has an impressive range of outdoor covers for many different types of furniture.

Dunelm

I could spend hours browsing the pages of Dunelm looking at everything from kitchen decor ideas to bedroom storage, and I wasn't disappointed by their impressive selection of outdoor furniture covers either. There's options to suit every budget, type and size.

Garden Trading

If you're looking to invest in new garden furniture in the end-of-summer sale, Garden Trading is the place to go, offering bespoke-fit covers to match, so everything fits perfectly and stays protected. The price tag might be a tad higher, but you can expect a premium feel that make them a worthwhile investment if you've splashed out on your garden landscaping ideas.

“After weeks of dry weather, it's easy to get out of the habit of thinking about protecting your garden furniture from the elements. But with storms and heavy rain on the way, now's the time to get back into that routine," concludes Kym Barlow, commercial director for outdoor furniture company, TDP.

"The biggest risk with a sudden change is that people get caught out. Furniture that's been sitting in the sun all summer can be more vulnerable to warping or staining once it's exposed to a heavy downpour, especially if water is left to pool on surfaces or cushions are left out to soak."

For more shopping advice, read our guide on where to buy outdoor garden storage and where to buy sheds.

Around the autumn equinox, you lose a bit of light as well as warmth. But pick the right crops and you can turn this to your advantage in your vegetable garden. Sow greens, oriental leaves, spring cabbage and Japanese onions now, and they will flourish in the combination of cooler temperatures and relatively warm ground levels. Quick-maturing crops like radishes that might have taken four weeks from seed to harvest in summer might take a few weeks longer – but it’s worth it. And slow-developing brassicas like spring cabbage relish every week of growth now to bulk up to their full potential and flavour.

With containers, cold frames and cloches at the ready, you can start off a stack of goodies now for healthy feasts far into the colder months.

1. Collard greens

Beloved of the ancient Greeks, these hearty leafy beasts taste better after a bit of exposure to frosts on the plot, so they are ideal for planting in September. Verdant, robust and reminiscent of cabbage, collards (Brassica oleracea) are packed with vitamins K, A and C, calcium and B6, and they help to lower cholesterol. Start now and make successive sowings to maximise cropping potential into the depths of winter.

These greens can be planted in the ground and in raised beds as well as containers, but bear in mind that they need a fair bit of room for bulking up. Plant in full sun or partial shade in moist, rich, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic pH (6.5). Space 45-60cm apart, or thin accordingly. An 8cm mulch will keep the ground moist and prevent weeds.

As long as these leafy greens receive a regular supply of moisture, they are ready for harvesting 65-75 days after sowing/planting. If they have been touched by frost, young leaves taste sweeter and work well steamed or braised. Try glossy ‘Green Glaze’, prolific ‘Flash’, and tender ‘Champion’.

2. Japanese onions

If you haven’t grown Japanese onions before, you’re in for a treat. These hardy overwintering varieties, also known simply as autumn planting onions, can grow outside over the cooler months and deliver crunchy goodness come spring. What makes them so perfect for planting in September is that they need less light than other onions, so the shorter days won’t faze them.

They are also excellent options for starting in September thanks to their tolerance of the cooler climes. As Chris Bonnett of GardeningExpress.co.uk points out: "Onions are tough enough to withstand the cold weather throughout the winter. Just keep an eye on them, and if the conditions get too frosty, you can always cover them with a fleece to be on the safe side."

If you’re stuck on what variety to choose, ‘Senshyu Yellow’ is a reliable, heavy yielding globe variety that can survive temperatures down to -18°C. ‘Toughball’ (available from Amazon) has good tolerance to botrytis and downy mildew, which you need for an overwintering type. Then there’s the shiny red-skinned ‘Electric’, (available from Crocus) which keeps for up to four weeks from harvest. Plus, there's ‘Troy’ and ‘Radar’, (also from Crocus) which have excellent bolt resistance.

3. Baby turnips

Turnips are one of the fastest-growing vegetables to plant in September. These crunchy wonders do best in cool, moist conditions. "If planted now, they take around six weeks until they’re ready to harvest. Perfect – and just in time for winter," says Chris Bonnett.

Sow seeds thinly in shallow drills, 1cm deep, with rows 30cm apart. Thin out seedlings until 20cm apart for baby roots. Water regularly, or roots won’t taste as nice or grow sufficiently. Dry conditions can cause plants to bolt, which stops roots growing. Then just make sure you follow our tips on how to get rid of weeds to ensure they don't appear and encroach on your growing turnips.

Just keep the soil lightly moist, and your baby roots will be healthy and yummy. Try 'Tokyo Cross', 'White Lady', 'Purple Top Milan' (available from Dobies) and 'Hakurei'.

4. Arugula (rocket)

Arugula (or rocket) is highly adaptable to a cool season of cultivation. Easily sown from seed, this leafy annual cranks up the heat with tasty crops that can be harvested four weeks after sowing. Its fast maturity makes it amongst the best vegetables for September planting – and successive sowing ensures harvests far into winter.

As gardening expert Lucy Chamberlain explains, the still-warm days of autumn are perfect for rapid germination. "Just sow straight into the greenhouse border, or into modules in a propagator to transplant to the border, trays or growing bags in October," says Lucy.

It prefers full sun or partial shade with well-drained soil (pH 6-7). Once you have thinned seedlings to 10-15cm apart, these plants just need regular watering due to their shallow root systems.

Depending on the varieties, you can harvest as quickly as 40 days after sowing (four-seven weeks): young, tender leaves are best. Just leave two thirds of each plant intact for multiple harvests. Try red-veined 'Dragon's Fire', heirloom ‘Slow Bolt’ and 'Scorpion' (available from Dobies) for something with a bit of extra kick.

5. Wok broc

Wok broc (aka Chinese broccoli) is a great vegetable to plant in September. This exotic-sounding crop, also known as kai lan, is a bit like conventional sprouting broccoli. It’s fast-growing, hard-working and packed with antioxidants and vitamin C.

Sow directly into moist, weed-free soil in an open, sunny site. Drop the seeds into a 2.5cm deep trench, or scatter across the surface of large pots. Thin to 30cm apart when seedlings are large enough to handle. Water well and make sure the growing area remains weed-free.

Because this crop is fast-growing, you can harvest stems and leaves six to eight weeks after sowing. Remove a few centimetres of the stems when the flowers appear. We recommend you leave a few flowers on the plant, though – they are great for pollinators in an eco-friendly garden.

6. Mustard leaves

Mustard leaves are some of the most impactful vegetables to plant in September as they bulk up quickly from seed, make the most of space in a small garden or veg patch and thrive in damp conditions. And if you sow every three weeks, they will supply you with tender pickings all winter.

"Simply sow directly into moist soil (pH 6-7). As temperatures fall, cover with a cloche, which prevents foliage turning leathery in colder weather," says Lucy. Alternatively, grow in large shallow garden planters.

As seedlings develop, thin to 8cm apart, and water well. As long as you plant in a nutrient-rich soil, you shouldn’t need to add any liquid feed. Just keep an eye on weeds and maintain cool temperatures; exposure to a little frost is tolerated and can soften and sweeten flavours.

Harvest mustard (Brassica juncea) 45-55 days after sowing. Either cut whole or pick outer leaves as baby greens to encourage further growth in a cut-and-come-again style. Mustard plants can also be grown for their peppery seeds if you leave one to flower.

Distinctive breeds include crinkly ‘Red Giant’ (available from Dobies) and pretty ‘Osaka Purple’.

7.  Spinach

If you want to grow spinach in September, choose a hardy cultivar and select a sunny spot, and you can reap the rewards well into winter. As Chris Bonnett points out, "If you harvest regularly, it may even last until early spring."

Direct-sow in a drill 2.5cm deep, water and cover lightly with soil. Thin to 10-15cm apart, then just keep well watered. You can also sow in large containers.

Six to 10 weeks later, harvest every alternate plant. Cut back to just above the base to encourage more leaves. Winter cultivars may need protection from October; cover with cloches and cold frames and protect with straw.

Grow autumn-sown varieties which have thicker leaves and are less inclined to bolt. Our favourite is ‘Mikado’, an F1 spinach (available from Thompson & Morgan). It produces excellent yields from multiple side-shoots. ‘Violin’ and ‘Amazon’ (available from Amazon) have strong resistance to bolting, while ‘Apollo’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) and ‘Palco’ (from Dobies) are resistant to downy mildew.

8. Coriander

Coriander can be started from seeds in pots. Alternatively, sow direct and protect seedlings under cloches in well-drained soil.

Sow thinly in the ground or multi-celled trays or pots and cover lightly. Germination takes 7 to 20 days. Keep sowing every two weeks for a constant supply. Make direct sowings 1cm deep in rows 30cm apart. Keep moist, but don’t overwater and weed regularly. Coriander can be harvested at 10 to 15cm tall and used on a cut-and-come-again basis.

For an easygoing, fast-growing coriander, try British-bred ‘Calypso’, (available from Thompson & Morgan), finely cut ‘Confetti’ (from Suttons) or vigorous ‘Leafy Leisure’. Or opt for a bolt-resistant variety such as ‘Slowbolt’ (from Dobies).

9. Pak choi

Plump, nutritious and fast-growing, pak choi is one of the essential vegetables to plant in September. It is well suited to shorter autumn days and its fat leaves make the most of what natural light is available. "You may not get massive rosettes, but a short, 3ft row will provide ample yield," says Lucy Chamberlain. "Sow directly outside into moist soil. As temperatures fade later in the month, cover the rows with a cloche, which will also prevent the foliage turning leathery," she adds.

The trick when you grow pak choi is to avoid root disturbance and sow in situ. Plant four seeds at 30cm spacing, then thin to the strongest seedling. Keep well watered to avoid bolting.

Great varieties include glossy 'Tatsoi Supi', crisp 'Joy Choi' and pretty 'Pak Choi Red'.

10. Pea shoots

Delicate and tender yet bursting with flavour and nutrients, pea shoots are a top crop to start now and shoots are ready in weeks. Content in a cold frame or greenhouse, they are quick to grow.

Grow outdoors in fertile, well-drained soil, sowing seeds an 2-3cm apart. It’s also possible to cultivate pea shoots in containers in a greenhouse or tunnel. If you use containers, make them big; grow bags and larger trays are ideal. Place in a well-lit spot but avoid direct sunlight, and keep moist. Harvest with scissors an inch above compost level when plants are 15cm tall. Cut in clumps, allowing a reasonable amount of the plant to regrow.

Top varieties include compact ‘Meteor’ and prolific ‘Feltham First’. We also recommend ‘Twinkle’ for downy mildew tolerance. And for a crunchy nutrient boost, ‘Anubis’ (available from Dobies) produces shoots in three weeks, and you can enjoy a second picking a few weeks later.

11. Radishes

September is your last chance this year for growing radishes, so take advantage of this final push for crunchy croppers through autumn.

Direct sow in the ground or sow in containers. If sowing in the ground, make short drills 15cm apart and sow 1cm deep. Sow summer radish seeds 2.5cm apart, and winter varieties 15cm apart. And keep the soil moist. As radishes are fast growers, try interplanting some between slower-growing veg like potatoes. You can harvest four weeks from sowing: these veggies are best eaten young.

Great varieties to try include sweet ‘Watermelon’ with its bright magenta flesh and peppery ‘China Rose’ (available from Dobies), which is cold-tolerant and can be left in the ground over winter. Not forgetting bold purple ‘Felicia’ (from Thompson & Morgan) with its slender roots, and ‘Rainbow Mix’, a colourful crunchy blend (from Suttons).

12. Spring cabbage

Tasty, tender, nourishing and bulging with goodies like vitamin C, spring cabbage is a reliable staple for the kitchen garden – and September is the key time to start off crops for next year. Time to overwinter is crucial in order to produce those bulky heads.

Pick an open, sunny or semi-shaded spot with an alkaline soil type. Start some off both in modular trays and direct in the ground using a seed bed, to hedge your bets. Once planted out, give plants a soak every eight to 10 days. As you see heads expand, water generously to improve bulk. You can pull up some crops as greens when the leaves are tender. Four to six months later, the main heads should be ready to harvest. Cut through the stem with a sharp knife just above ground level. For a bonus crop, cut a cross in the stump. You’ll get several small cabbages a few weeks later.

Great varieties include tender sweetheart ‘Wheelers Imperial’ (available from Suttons). Then there’s ‘Duncan’, with its dark upright leaves. ‘April’ (from Thompson & Morgan) is an early spring variety with compact heads.

Another good September gardening job is to order new fruit bushes for planting in November to March. Organic expert Bob Flowerdew recommends buying a blackcurrant bush.

To boost your returns, take a few cuttings from the main bush and root them in situ. Other options include red/white currants and gooseberries. Blackcurrants are also a good choice if you're interested in growing fruit in pots and containers.

For one final task – don't forget about the key plants to prune in September before it's too late.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Top of your ‘what to plant in September’ list should be spring bulbs, as they start being available this month and it’s good to buy them early before the best ones sell out. They are an easy and versatile way of adding colour to the garden, and happy to grow in borders, rock gardens, containers, and even in your lawn.

But it's not all about bulbs – there are lots of other lovely options for planting this month, too. The round-up below has plenty of tips on what to plant when, so you can prepare a bloom-filled garden design for next year.

1. Nectaroscordum

One of my favourite alliums for garden edging is Nectaroscordum siculum or Sicilian honey garlic.

Unlike most members of the onion family that produce circular heads of purple or white flowers, this allium opens up into umbrellas of pale cream blooms that are flushed with pink and have green tips.

Growing to almost 1.2m in ideal situations, they continue to delight when flowers fade, producing arrow-head seed pods that grow upright from the tall, straight stem.

Plant the bulbs in free-draining soil in a sunny spot that has been enriched with well-rotted compost or farmyard manure. Set them at two to three times their own depth and a bulb’s width apart, ideally in clusters of odd numbers because even numbers of plants can look too regimented.

Firm the soil down gently over the top of the bulbs and water well and they should flower next spring.

Top tip: Nectaroscordum siculum can also be grown from seed but they will take around six years to flower.

2. Red hot pokers

For a bit of late summer heat, add some red hot pokers to your borders. Though traditionally tall, dwarf varieties look lovely planted towards the front of your beds.

Also called kniphofias, these drought-tolerant plants have strap-like leaves and tall spires of glowing red florets, though they are also widely available in yellow and cream.

To plant, dig a hole that’s as deep as, but slightly wider than the plant’s root ball, and fork in some well-rotted organic matter.

Stand the plant in water for around 30 minutes to saturate the root ball, then gently slide it from the pot and use your thumbs to loosen any roots that are constricted or circling the pot.

Then, set the red hot poker in the hole, and infill around the roots with soil and compost, firming it down as you go to knock out air pockets. Water well and mulch the root area with compost or manure to retain moisture.

Top tip: If you are planting in clay soil, fork up the sides of the planting hole to improve drainage so the roots don’t drown in an impermeable ‘bucket’ of water.

3. Sedum

Sedum, or stonecrop, are the perfect flower for autumn colour and also provide essential late nectar for foraging bees and butterflies, making it a great choice for eco-friendly gardens.

Also known as ice plants, they have fleshy leaves in shades of green and purple and spreading, flat clumps of flowers in various shades of pink.

Perfect plants for a low-maintenance garden border, they like a sunny spot and are one of the best drought-resistant plants, though young plants do need protection from slugs and snails. I find that a ring of wool deterrent pellets such as Slug Gone (available from Amazon) around plants keeps the pests at bay and also works as a mulch, keeping moisture in the soil.

Plant stonecrop at the front of a border or in containers of multipurpose compost with added grit to improve drainage.

Top tip: The Chelsea chop, when you remove one stem in three, will keep sedum plants neat and long-flowering through summer, and their faded flowerheads are attractive enough to leave attached in the fall.

4. Iris reticulata 

Iris reticulata are early-blooming spring flowers, grown from bulbs in a sunny spot with rich, free-draining soil.

A dwarf variety, their flowers are traditionally violet with yellow markings. However, newer varieties such as ‘George’ have striking pinky-purple petals while ‘Natascha’ has blue petals that are so pale they almost look white.

Iris reticulata, or reticulate irises, originally came from dry areas of Europe and work well at the front of borders as well as in pots. They are also worth considering as plants for rockeries.

Top tip: Plant the bulbs in autumn for spring flowers or if you can’t wait, buy ready-to-flower plants in late winter for an instant hit of colour.

5. Verbascum

If you’re looking to add height to a border, look no further than verbascum varieties, stately perennial or biennial plants with spires of clustered flowers in all shades from deep purple to creamy yellow.

They like neutral to alkaline soil that drains well and look wonderful as part of cottage garden planting schemes, but will also fit in well with more contemporary borders. Try them with a range of ornamental grasses and bright hardy annuals such as poppies and cornflowers.

Verbascums (available from Thompson & Morgan) enjoy sun but will also thrive in partial shade and are perfect additions if you are creating a wildlife patch as they attract lots of beneficial pollinators.

However, they are susceptible to attacks by mullein moth caterpillars – yellow, black, and white-striped grubs that can do serious damage to your plants. The best defence is to pick them off and add them to the bird table.

Top tip: Verbascum flower early in the summer. If you cut back their flowered stems you should be rewarded with a second flush of blooms later in the summer.

6. Chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums, also known as ‘chrysanths’ and ‘mums’ were all the rage for a while, then fell out of favour and gained a reputation for being a bit boring and fuddy-duddy.

Now they are back in vogue and a top garden trend, so more people are enjoying the benefits of growing them. It's easy to see why too. Easy-going and with a wide range of colours, flower sizes, and heights, they are the slightly less flashy cousin of the dahlia and just as beautiful.

Although most chrysanthemums are bought as rooted cuttings and small plants in spring, garden centres and online suppliers (such as Gardening Express) will have lots of fantastic, bright bedding varieties in stock now, making them an easy addition to your list of what to plant in September.

These are usually dwarf plants that form clumps of gem-shade flowers in pinks, reds, russets, and oranges. They will flower long into the winter and again next spring.

Top tip: Deadheading flowers regularly will keep the blooms coming and the plants in a neat shape.

7. Biennial seedlings

If you sowed a selection of biennials in spring and summer, the seedlings should be ready to move to their final growing place.

Biennials are plants that are sowed year and flower the next, and they include foxgloves (available at Dobies), wallflowers (available at Suttons), and honesty (available at Suttons).

Many of these plants will happily self-seed around the parent plant so if you are already growing them you may find seedlings springing up in unexpected (and unwanted) spots in your garden.

Carefully dig them up, keeping soil around the roots, and plant them where you wish, at the same depth as they were growing before. Keep them well-watered.

Alternatively, pot them up in peat-free compost and overwinter them in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse. Next spring, when the soil warms up, you can plant them out where you want.

Top tip: If pink and white honesty has self-seeded, either leave it where it is or add it to the compost heap if you don't want it. These plants have long, thick tap roots and don’t transplant well.

8. Cyclamen

With their jewel-coloured flowers and interestingly patterned leaves, jaunty little cyclamen are an excellent choice for what to plant in September.

As great shade-loving plants, they seem to glow out of the gloom, and their corms will multiply over the years. They also boost their numbers by self-seeding.

The best outdoor varieties are Cyclamen coum (available at Thompson & Morgan), which have green leaves with white streaks and pretty little flowers in shades of pink, red, and white, and Cyclamen hederifolium (available at Suttons), with their pink and white flowers and leaves patterned like ivy.

Both varieties thrive in humus-rich soil and are lovely under trees and shrubs.

Top tip: After flowering, cyclamen seedpods are held on curled stems that slowly unwind as they ripen, lowering the precious seeds down to the soil.

9. Dierama

If you have the patience, this month is a good time to sow the seeds of Dierama pulcherrimum, or angel's fishing rods.

You need to be patient because the plants can take up to five years to reach flowering maturity, but the end result is delicate and beautiful plants with thin, strap-like leaves and gracefully drooping skeins of bells – hence their name – in shades of deep pinks and mauves.

If you are already growing the plant, collect the seeds as soon as they are ripe. When you sow, scatter seeds thinly on the surface of a tray of seed compost and don't cover with more compost or vermiculite as light is needed for germination.

Prick out the seedlings when large enough and grow on until they reach a size that will cope with being planted out somewhere sunny with free-draining soil.

Although dierama look wonderful growing among ornamental grasses close to water, the corms that develop from their seeds as they mature are prone to rotting and need a dry site.

Top tip: Dierama will grow in containers, but are much happier in the soil. In winter, mulch corms with well-rotted compost or manure if very cold weather is forecast.

10. Violas

Violas are a spring bedding stalwart. Smaller than pansies, they are less likely to have their petals damaged by winter weather and will happily hunker down and sit out the worst of the weather before springing back to life when conditions improve.

There are many varieties to choose from if you're thinking about what to sow in September, from the purple and yellow old-fashioned favourite ‘Johnny Jump Up’ (available on Amazon) to the multi-coloured ‘Pink Halo' (available from Gardener's Dream).

Sow the seeds in a tray of dampened seed compost, cover with a little more compost and germinate on a warm, light windowsill. Prick out seedlings when they are large enough to handle and pot them on in peat-free compost.

Harden off plants in spring and plant them out when the weather warms.

Top tip: Violas and pansies are prone to a fungal disease called leaf spot, which causes oily dark patches to appear on the leaves, and weakens the plants. Avoid it by planting homegrown plants in areas of the garden where violas and pansies have not grown before.

11. Poached egg plants

Easy to grow and with sunny faces, poached egg plants (Limnanthes douglasii) are the cheeky, cheerful chappies of the spring and summer garden.

Low-growing, with vibrant green leaves and white flowers with yellow centres, they self-seed with ease and are ideal for the front of borders, as ground cover, and as path edging plants.

They like full sun and are hardy, so sow them now in soil that has been cleared of weeds and stones, raked until it is fine and crumbly, and watered.

Scatter the seeds thinly, cover them with a little more soil and label the site so you don’t accidentally disturb them. It’s also worth sprinkling some pepper dust over the top to keep off cats and pests.

The seeds will spend winter in the soil and start to germinate when the weather warms up next spring, and will flower all summer and into the fall.

Top tips: Poached egg plants are popular with pollinators as well as insects that prey on garden pests such as aphids, so use them as a companion planting aid and sow a few seeds around your fruit and veg patch.

12. California poppies

California poppies, also known as Eschscholzia californica, are cheery annuals that spread pops of colour wherever they are sown.

Hailing from – you guessed it – California, where they are the State Flower, their orange variant is the most commonly seen, though they also come in shades of brilliant red, yellow and cool cream.

Glossy flowers ride high above soft ferny leaves, and their furled petals open as the sun passes over, following it on its daily course.

Sow now in well-prepared soil and look forward to long-lasting colour well into autumn. The great thing about these flowers is they don’t mind poor soil, as long as they get lots of sun, so they are perfect for dry areas of the garden.

13. Malope Trifida 'Vulcan'

If you are looking for a floral show-stopper that is one of the best low-maintenance plants, you won't go far wrong with Malope trifida ‘Vulcan' (available at Crocus).

A hardy annual, despite its exotic appearance, this variety of stately mallow produces a profusion of glossy pink-purple flowers with lime-green centres, making it an interesting one to add to your list of what to plant in September.

Growing to 1m, it likes a sunny, well-drained spot and although it can also be sown in spring, seeds started now will have a head start on later sowings and will flower sooner.

Sow them undercover in trays of sieved and dampened seed compost. Tamp the compost flat so it provides a secure surface for germination and add a lid to the seed tray. Set it somewhere light, such as a greenhouse or cold frame, and the hardy annual seeds will germinate in a few weeks.They can be pricked out and potted on into peat-free compost and overwintered in the greenhouse.

Top tip: ‘Vulcan’ blooms are lovely as a cutting garden flower for indoor arrangements, but don't start cutting them as soon as they start to appear on the plant as you’ll remove lots of buds as well. Wait a couple of weeks until the plant has really got established and is throwing out lots of blooms, and then start harvesting.

Whether you want instant impact with pretty bedding plants or want to sow seeds or plant bulbs ready for early spring displays, our suggestions for what to plant in September will ensure there is plenty to admire in your plot during the cooler weather ahead.

For more gardening advice, read why is my hydrangea not blooming or learn how to plant a lavender hedge.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

While this type of driveway might seem like a dream on paper, there are a few things to keep in mind before installing one at home – such as the fact that it can be harder to modify later down the line if you want to make changes to your driveway.

Below, we unpack the pros and cons of a stamped concrete driveway, along with the costs, maintenance, and installation advice you need to know first.

What is a stamped concrete driveway?

A stamped concrete driveway is created by pouring wet concrete onto a suitable sub-surface. This is then imprinted with a pattern, and coloured to imitate the appearance of cobblestone, brick, slate, or stone.

You can choose from a range of different patterns - from European fan (pictured above) to herringbone brick (an interlocking zigzag shape).

With the variety of designs available, it can be a good driveway idea for a wide variety of property styles.

What are the pros and cons of a stamped concrete driveway?

Pros

• Appearance: With a range of patterns and colours to choose from, stamped concrete is an attractive choice driveways of all shapes and sizes – without the hassle associated with laying brick or cobblestone driveways (which we explain later)
• Durable: When designed and installed correctly, landscape designer Rosie Wilkins says a stamped concrete driveway can last more than 20 years
• Low maintenance: You won't need to worry about repositioning loose bricks or pulling up pesky weeds in block paving, since it's one continuous surface.
• Easy to clean: This hardy material is a breeze to clean using one of the best pressure washers

Cons

• Not the most eco-friendly choice: If an eco-friendly home is your goal, Rosie warns that stamped concrete driveways are resource-intensive and contribute to the urban heat effect (where a town or city is warmer than nearby rural areas)
• May not comply with drainage requirements: Unless you choose permeable or porous concrete, Rosie says this type of driveway won't comply with sustainable drainage (SUDS) requirements, meaning you'd need to install a separate driveway drainage system to comply with building regulations
• May discolour or crack: Building expert Mark Brinkley warns that concrete driveways can crack over time poorly laid, and the material can also be prone to discolouration

How are stamped concrete driveways installed?

If you like the sound of a stamped concrete driveway, Andy Simms, building expert at MyBuilder.com, says installation will involve the following steps:

1. Your existing driveway will need to be dug up
2. The driveway foundation needs to be replaced with a new one
3. A strong, single concrete mix is poured on top
4. A colour hardener or integral colour will be applied to give the concrete your desired shade
5. Your chosen pattern will be stamped into the concrete before it dries, using rubber or polyurethane stamping mats.
6. A sealer will be used as the final coat
7. The stamped concrete will need to be given time to cure

However, if you have aspirations of laying your own driveway, you may be better off considering something simpler, like laying a gravel driveway instead. "This is obviously a bit of a tricky job, so you’ll need to book a tradesperson," warns Andy.

How long do stamped driveways last?

Stamped concrete driveways are “known for their durability,” according to Checkatrade expert Alex Peters, and can last for more than 20 years when installed correctly. The key to longevity? He recommends applying a protective sealant every few years to protect the surface and prevent it from cracking, lifting, and fading.

Other than resealing, there’s really little maintenance involved with having a stamped concrete driveway, which is one of its many perks. You’ll just need to give it a routine clean and avoid harsh chemicals or de-icing salts that can damage the sealant. Watch out for oil, too, as it can cause unwanted discolouration and staining – one of the biggest driveway mistakes.

"Maintenance is one of the big selling points of stamped concrete versus block paving or natural stone – there are no individual units to re-lay or weeds pushing up through joints," Alex says.

How much does a stamped driveway cost?

While stamped driveway costs will vary depending on the size and complexity of the project, Andy Simms says you can expect to pay between £80 and £130 per square metre.

If you decide to add some colour, you might pay an extra £7 to £12 per square metre.

What type of driveways is stamped concrete suitable for?

“If you're looking to upgrade, or replace, your driveway, stamped concrete is a great option, if you want it to look ‘fancy,’ while also not spending as much money as you would on more exotic materials," says Andy Simms.

While it’s not impossible to install on a sloped driveway, Andy says stamped concrete is better suited to flat driveways to help prevent drainage problems.

From its low-effort maintenence to long-lasting durability, it's easy to see the appeal of a stamped concrete driveway – so long as drainage and potential cracking are properly accounted for.

For more expert advice, read our guide on the driveway building regulations you need to know and find out what one of our renovation experts learnt from turning a front garden into a driveway.

While aesthetics should most certainly play a part in choosing the right surface for your driveway, there are other things to take into account too – durability, maintenance and, of course, cost all need to be considered.

Resin driveways, arguably a relative newcomer on the scene, are now a hugely popular option and have an awful lot going for them. If this is something you are considering, check out what the experts have to say about their pros and cons before making your final decision.

What is a resin driveway?

One of the biggest driveway mistakes people make is to fail to do their research when it comes to materials.

It is important to begin by looking at exactly what resin driveways are – largely because there are two different types: resin-bound, and resin-bonded.

Stephen Evans, founder of Costwise UK, explains the difference between the two. "Resin-bound mixes the stone through the resin and is trowelled smooth. It is permeable, SuDS-friendly and what almost every domestic installer fits. Resin-bonded scatters stone onto a resin layer for a rougher, non-porous finish, which usually needs separate driveway drainage or planning consent."

If you are unsure which to choose, the majority of experts will point you in the direction of resin-bound, something Daniel Wickham, owner of First Impression Driveways, wholly agrees with. "Resin-bound driveways are the best because they provide a flat, strong and aesthetic finish while remaining permeable, allowing water to drain away properly."

How are resin driveways installed?

Whether you are resurfacing an existing space or turning your front garden into a driveway, you need to think about installation. Some driveway materials, such as gravel, are more straightforward to lay than others.

"Generally, resin-bound driveways are applied by creating a solid base first (usually concrete or tarmac), before mixing the resin and aggregate together and spreading evenly to create a smooth, seamless finish," explains Daniel Wickham.

"The process usually starts out with a site survey and planning stage, then whatever groundwork or preparatory base will be needed for the resin-bound surface to be installed upon is carried out, followed by the installation team laying down the raw materials of the resin-bound surface," he continues.

"In terms of timings, this largely depends on the size of the driveway and the state of your existing surface, but simple resin installations can often get completed very quickly – sometimes within days.

"Typically, following installation, you would wait until the surface was fully cured before being able to drive on it," adds Daniel. "For most, that means not using cars for at least 24 - 48 hours, although the exact timing can vary based on temperature and installer methods."

Do you need planning permission for a resin driveway?

In the majority of cases, planning permission for a driveway won't be required, although this is largely dependent on the materials you are using and how they facilitate driveway drainage, as well as the size of the driveway.

"Permeable resin-bound surfaces that let water drain through usually need no planning permission," picks up Stephen Evans. "A non-permeable surface over 5m² that drains to the road might do – and that is one of the reasons most people should be fitting resin-bound rather than resin-bonded."

Other permeable materials to consider include gravel, and certain types of block paving that allow water to drain through the joints.

How much do resin driveways cost?

When it comes to new driveway costs, resin does have some drawbacks, particularly if it is cheap driveway ideas that you are after.

According to Stephen Evans, resin driveway costs sit somewhere in the middle of driveway materials as a whole, more expensive than gravel or tarmac, but less so than block paving or imprinted concrete.

"Expect to pay £40 - £70/m² supplied and fitted, typically about £55/m²." says Stephen. "On a typical 50m² drive that's roughly £2,000 - £3,500. The single biggest swing is what is underneath: laying over a sound existing base keeps you near £40/m², and a new permeable sub-base adds roughly £25 to £45/m²."

Stephen is also keen to highlight that this investment often won't add as much value as it costs. "At £40 - £70/m² a resin drive will not add its cost back to the house price in most cases. It is money spent on kerb appeal and daily use, not an investment."

How long will a resin driveway last?

You really want to ensure your driveway ideas stand the test of time and that you won't be having to do the job again any time soon.

Most guarantees on professionally installed resin driveways fall between 10 - 20 years and, according to Daniel Wickham, this is a great option for homeowners after a long-lasting finish. "Correctly installed, with UV-stable materials, a resin driveway is long-lasting, hardwearing and resistant to significant colour fading. The main points to note are that it needs to be fitted on a solid, correctly laid sub-base by a competent installer."

Stephen Evans agrees that it all comes down to high-quality materials and good installation techniques. "It lasts well, with two real caveats. Cheaper resins that are not UV-stable can yellow or fade in sunlight, so it is worth asking specifically what resin is being used. Lighter aggregates show oil marks and moss more readily than darker blends – and bear in mind that, in some cases, the surface can feel slippery when wet."

Driveway lights for your resin driveway

What type of homes do resin driveways suit?

Practicality aside, it is important to take into account what your driveway materials will do for the kerb appeal of your home. Not all materials suit certain types of houses. For example, period style homes and cottages often sit well with gravel driveway ideas and might not suit the sleeker, more modern appearance that resin delivers.

That said, Daniel Wickham is keen to point out that, thanks to the wide range of colours and designs available, this is an option that appeals to both homeowners after modern driveway ideas, as well as those looking for something a little more classic. "There is a selection of shades and resin is compatible with both traditional or modern homes," he says.

"It offers a cleaner, more premium-looking surface than gravel or concrete, and definitely provides a more decorative finish than tarmac," adds Daniel.

FAQs

How much maintenance does a resin driveway require?

For those who like to take a hands-off approach to home maintenance, one of the main factors they will take into consideration when choosing a new driveway will be how much looking-after it requires.

This is where resin really comes into its own. For example, unlike gravel, it won't move over time, making it perfect for those after sloping driveway solutions.

"Unlike block paving it has no joints for weeds to come through," says Stephen Evans, although he goes on to point out that repairs can be tricker than with some other materials. "Block paving wins on repairability, because you can lift and relay individual blocks, while a resin repair means patching a seamless surface."

For many people, gravel is the ideal driveway material – affordable, easy and quick to install and SuDS-compliant. However, it is really helpful to look into ways to stop gravel moving if you want it to stay looking its best. And, while your driveway plans may not require planning permission, make sure you establish if they will still need to meet the requirements of driveway building regulations.

In order to create my own driveway, it was necessary to tear out the pretty cottage front garden that came with the house – a painful, but, ultimately necessary, task. All the elbow grease that was required in its creation aside, this was also a steep learning curve when it came to the world of driveway Building Regulations – it turns out you can't just do whatever you like here.

To avoid you having to stumble into the process blindly – as I did – I reached out to the experts to bring you a guide to each and every regulation you need to know about in order to create a driveway that ticks all the right boxes. The good news? There aren't too many to get your head around.

Do driveways need to comply with the Building Regulations?

Before turning my front garden into a driveway, I hadn't really thought about planning permission or Building Regulations. That might sound foolish but, according to the experts I spoke to, in many cases neither is it something homeowners need to concern themselves too much with.

Paula Higgins, chief executive of HomeOwners Alliance, explains that, in many cases, new driveways won't require any kind of permission. "A new or replacement driveway does not usually need Building Regulations approval. However, planning permission, highways approval or Building Regulations may apply depending on the work involved. The rules are particularly important where the driveway affects access to the home, drainage, retaining walls, changes in ground level or the public pavement."

Zaeem Chaudhary, director and chartered architectural technologist (MCIAT) at AC Design Solution, points out that in certain cases, however, there are a few stipulations to be aware of. "A domestic driveway does not usually require Building Regulations approval on its own, but planning, drainage, access and highway rules may still apply.

"Part M can be relevant where the driveway forms the approach to the home, particularly if changes affect gradients, steps or accessible entry," continues Zaeem. "Part H may apply where drainage, existing drains or surface-water disposal are affected."

Here, we break down each and every element of driveway design that you'll need to consider in order to comply with the regulations.

1. Driveway drainage needs early planning

Driveway drainage is one of the main factors you need to take into account in terms of ensuring you are complying with the relevant Building Regulations and planning stipulations. In fact, get the drainage right and, in many cases, driveway planning permission won't be needed.

In terms of Building Regulations, there are only certain instances where approval may be required, as Paula Higgins explains. "The driveway should not direct water onto the pavement, neighbouring land or the foundations of the house. Building Regulations may apply if drains, sewers, inspection chambers or soakaways are being installed or altered."

Paula goes on to point out that where drainage really matters is when it comes to planning permission. "Permission is unlikely to be needed where water is directed into a lawn, border or other permeable area within the property. If more than five square metres of front garden is covered with an impermeable surface and rainwater runs onto the road or into the drainage system, planning permission may be required."

2. Your driveway materials matter more than you might think

This brings us nicely on to the next point – your choice of driveway materials is about so much more than aesthetics. Of course you want them to tie into and to do justice to the front of your house and the surrounding landscaping scheme, but they also play an important practical role.

"There is no single material that has to be used, but the surface should be safe, durable and suitable for the driveway in question," explains Paula Higgins.

The good news is that there is nothing in the Building Regulations to stipulate what materials you have to use – but bear in mind that your choice will affect whether or not you require planning permission.

"Planning permission is not normally required for a new or replacement front driveway if it uses a permeable surface, such as gravel, porous asphalt or permeable block paving," says Paula.

Shop permeable driveway materials

3. A dropped kerb requires permission

If you are creating a brand new driveway, or extending an opening, you can't just cut a hole in the pavement without some kind of permission.

While Building Regulations approval isn't necessary for dropped kerbs, you will need to seek permission from your local highway authority.

"You will normally need approval from the local highway authority before driving across a public pavement – and planning permission may also be required," points out Paula Higgins. "Rules vary between councils, so homeowners should check with both the planning and highways departments before starting work. It is also worth noting that approval for a dropped kerb does not necessarily mean that planning permission has also been granted."

4. If you're starting from scratch visibility splays need to be considered

This is where Part M of the Building Regulations could come into play, so make sure you check whether your home needs to comply. New homes and accessible homes are usually amongst those affected.

"A new access must give drivers a reasonable view of pedestrians, cyclists and approaching traffic," explains Paula Higgins. "Councils may refuse an application where visibility is obstructed by a wall, hedge, bend, junction or other feature.

"That said, there is no single visibility-splay measurement that applies to every domestic driveway," continues Paula. "The council will consider the type of road, traffic speeds, pavement width and the number of vehicles likely to use the access. Homeowners may be required to reduce the height of walls, fences or planting near the entrance."

5. If your driveway is very steep it may need levelling

Sloping driveways can throw up a few issues. Everything from the materials you choose to finish them with to the way in which you deal with surface water needs to be carefully considered to ensure they are easy to use.

The good news, as Paula Higgins points out, is that there is nothing specific in the Building Regs about gradients. "There is no single national maximum gradient for a domestic driveway. However, a steep driveway must be safe to use and should not make pedestrian access to the property worse – for example by installing steps.

"Extra care may be needed where the driveway also forms the main route to the front door, particularly for wheelchair users or people with limited mobility," adds Paula. "It is worth noting that significant changes in level or the erection of retaining walls or raised edges may require planning permission or Building Regulations approval – or both."

6. The size of your driveway matters more than you might think

The good news is that, in terms of the Building Regs, there is very little to stand in the way of you creating whatever driveway length, shape or size you heart desires.

"There is no universal, national minimum size for an existing domestic driveway," says Paula Higgins. "However, councils normally require enough room for the vehicle to park fully within the property without overhanging the pavement and local planning policies may set minimum parking-space dimensions, particularly for new homes so it is worth checking this out.

"Additionally, the council may refuse a dropped-kerb application if the front garden is not deep or wide enough to accommodate a vehicle safely," adds Paula.

7. Shared driveways come with additional requirements

If you share your driveway with another property, rather than suddenly having a whole new set of Building Regulations to deal with, it is more a case of who is responsible for what, as well as checking out any specific requirements of your local council and looking into things like fence rules before making any alterations.

"There is no separate set of Building Regulations simply because a driveway is shared," says Paula Higgins. "However, the council may consider its width, visibility, the number of homes served and whether vehicles can enter and leave safely.

"The property deeds should also be checked," continues Paula. "They may contain rights of access, restrictions on alterations and responsibilities for repair and maintenance. Planning permission or highways approval does not override these private legal rights."

FAQs

What happens if you fail to comply with driveway Building Regulations?

When it comes to making any changes or alterations to any aspect of your home, it is vital that you don't just ignore the Building Regs – the consequences can be serious – plus buying a house without Building Regulations is pretty unappealing for the majority of buyers out there too.

"The consequences depend on which rules have been breached," picks up Paula Higgins. "If controlled building work does not comply with the Building Regulations, the council can require corrective work and, in serious cases, prosecute.

"Creating or using an unauthorised vehicle crossing can also lead to highways enforcement," continues Paula. "The council may refuse to lower the kerb, require an unlawful crossing to be removed or take action where vehicles are repeatedly driven across an unstrengthened pavement.

"Finally, non-compliant work may also cause problems when selling the property, particularly where the buyer’s solicitor asks for planning permission, highways approval or Building Regulations certificates. To be on the safe side, homeowners should contact their council’s planning and highways departments before starting work."

If you are creating a new driveway, or sprucing up an existing one, it is likely you will be making some landscaping upgrades too. Make sure you understand the garden wall Building Regulations before you go building any new structures to ensure the whole area is safe and compliant.

If your grass passes the tug test (it resists your pull without ripping out the roots), we have some good news: your lawn has simply gone into survival mode, conserving energy while it waits for better weather to return.

To find out the best way to resurrect your stressed-out, dormant turf, we spoke to two landscaping experts for their top lawn care tips (spoiler: it all boils down to soil care).

1. Aerate your lawn

Once you've raked away any dead, matted thatch, you'll want to aerate the lawn using a hollow-tine aerator to help the soil breathe again. Note: the ground will need to be slightly damp from previous watering or rainfall.

"Contrary to popular advice, pushing a garden fork into the lawn isn't the answer," says David Hedges-Gower, Consultant at Modern Lawn Care. "It can actually increase compaction around each hole. Hollow-tine aeration physically removes small cores of soil, restoring the vital balance of oxygen and moisture that roots and soil biology rely upon."

2. Re-hydrate the soil

Next up, the ground needs to be deeply rehydrated – a light sprinkle isn't going to cut it, says Chris Wood, Head Florist at Waitrose Gardens.

To minimise evaporation from the sun and wind, he recommends watering the soil between 5am and 9am, soaking it with 2.5cm of water per session, and checking that the water has penetrated around 10-15cm into the soil.

3. Feed the soil

When it comes to feeding your grass, you'll want to avoid high-salt fertilisers and harsh chemical treatments, says David Hedges-Gower. Instead, he recommends choosing a product that feeds the soil itself, such as True Grass Lawn Food below.

"Organic nutrition, biostimulants and ingredients that stimulate microbial activity help rebuild root systems and restore the natural processes that produce healthy grass in the first place," he explains.

4. Lightly scarify the lawn

Once your lawn's recovery is underway, David Hedges-Gower recommends giving it a very light scarification to help remove the layer of dead leaf material that masks the new growth underneath.

"Don't be tempted to scarify aggressively unless you are planning a full renovation and reseed," he adds.

"British lawns have survived droughts, floods, harsh winters and scorching summers for centuries. The difference today is that we often expect an instant fix. Nature doesn't work like that. Give the soil water. Restore its structure. Restart its biology. Allow the roots to recover. Then be patient," concludes David Hedges-Gowe.

If you found this helpful, you may also want to learn about the best time to water grass or make a note of the UK's lawn care calendar.

While there's obviously only so far an app can get you (they won't account for practical problems or actually build it), they can be invaluable for visualising where you could place things or how to recreate a specific style you've been stalking on Pinterest.

To find out what the best garden design apps are and what real landscape experts have to say about them, keep reading.

1. Spacelift

Using expertise from award-winning garden designer Matt Keightley, this AI-powered app helps you map, visualise, shop for, and build your outdoor space from end to end.

Whether you want to reimagine your current space or plan your future garden, Spacelift personalises the experience to whatever your goals are, with the option to select the maintenance level, style and budget you're after.

For £9.99 a month or £89.99 a year, you'll get to design two projects per month, 10 design edits and quick-match credits, a project action plan, and Shop the Look. The Pro version also includes discounts on furniture and accessories.

I put its quick-match feature to the test on my own garden, asking it to redesign the space in a cottage style. See the results below.

Get the app

2. ChatGPT

You may have used ChatGPT for research or problem-solving, but did you know that it can also design your garden? Our Content Director, Laura Crombie, used it to help revamp her outdoor space, as pictured below.

When it comes to getting the best results possible, she recommends being as specific as possible about things such as paving colour and the type of gravel you want. "I had a clear vision in my head of what was practical and what I wanted. I'm not sure how useful it would be if you find it hard to picture things yourself. What I've got is very accurate."

However, she warns that sometimes it has a mind of its own and decides to change the whole thing when you ask for a tiny amendment, so be prepared to have a little patience with it.

While ChatGPT is free to use, you'll need to upgrade to the Pro version (starting at £7 per month) to generate more than two images per day.

Get the app

3. iScape

If you're in the early stages of designing a garden, iScape could come in handy, helping you visually plan where things could potentially go.

Simply take a photo of your garden and you'll be able to drag and drop various products, including trees, flowers and shrubs, as well as furniture, containers and hardscapes.

You can design in either 2D or 3D with AR, giving you a clear picture of what things would look like before you invest. The paid version (£29.99 per month) gives you access to more products, as well as the proposal tool, which helps you plan costs and decide what to buy. However, you can get a one-week free trial.

Get the app

4. Garden AI

Upload a photo of your garden and Garden AI can transform it into any style of your choosing – from Japanese or tropical to rustic or industrial. You can also upload an inspo photo and it will redesign your space based off that.

However, if you're not in a place to start completely from scratch, this app also lets you drag and drop new furniture onto your existing space and replace objects with options in their catalogue.

While you can generate one re-design for free, you'll need to upgrade to their Pro version, costing £5.99 per week or £49.99 per year, to access all of the themes and features.

I asked for a Mediterranean-style garden idea with the addition of colourful flowers, new furniture and plants. Here's what it gave me:

Get the app

Should I use a garden design app?

Garden design apps can be a brilliant starting point for homeowners unsure of what they want, but Mirela Bajic, Senior Garden Designer at House Designer, says they have their limitations.

"It doesn't know your soil. It doesn't know your garden faces north and gets two hours of sun in winter. It will happily let you put a Mediterranean gravel garden on heavy wet clay, and it will look wonderful on the screen right up until everything dies. The app designs the picture. It can't design the conditions."

When it comes to hard landscaping, such as levels, drainage and retaining walls, it's always best to call in a garden designer, as repair costs can be expensive – and tricky to undo. "I've been called in more than once to fix a garden someone built from a screen design," Mirela adds.

What are the biggest garden design app mistakes?

Garden design apps might seem like a magic quick fix, but Martin Chaplin, Head of Horticulture at Hedges Direct, says there are a few mistakes to avoid:

1. Not considering how plants grow over time: "A hedge or border that looks perfectly proportioned on screen can quickly become overcrowded if mature plant sizes and growth rates aren't factored into the design."

2. Designing around a wishlist, not your garden's natural conditions: "Before choosing any plants, consider how much sunlight the area receives, whether it's exposed to strong winds, how well the soil drains and, crucially, what type of soil you have."

3. Thinking short-term: "It's easy to focus on how the garden will look immediately after planting rather than how it will develop over the coming years. The most successful gardens have a strong evergreen framework, using hedging and structural shrubs as the backbone before layering in flowering shrubs such as hydrangeas or buddleia and perennials like lavender, salvia and verbena for seasonal colour."

While garden design apps can be incredibly helpful at visualising what sort of outdoor space to create, they should be used with caution for big projects and investments.

For more inspiration, take a look at these budget small garden ideas or browse through these garden screening ideas.

With small plots, every design decision will have a dramatic impact on the look and the use of the space. Naturally, you'll want to pick features that utilise every inch and create a harmonious, welcoming garden. But some choices can inadvertently exacerbate the claustrophobic conditions and turn a plot into a place that you never feel inclined to use.

From planting picks and colour schemes to awkward layouts that seem to be a good idea at the time, we've rounded up the common errors when bringing your small garden ideas to life, so that you can steer clear of them.

1. Rushing the planning stage

For the most successful results, planning is the key to avoiding small garden design mistakes. If you rush a design you could risk filling up an already compact space with features that you won't really need or use, and you'll quickly run out of space for the things you realise you did need.

Carefully think about what you actually want to do in the garden. Do you want to grow vegetables, host outdoor meals, welcome in wildlife, or simply relax? Prioritise the features that will need to be added to make these activities possible: if you want to grow vegetables, you'll need space for a raised garden bed, or at least a few large garden planter ideas. If you want to relax, then a seating area is a must – perhaps beneath some sort of cover or shade sail so that a spot of rain doesn't deter you.

Want to cook up a storm? Then you'll need a food prep station or a small outdoor kitchen, and an area for dining.

2. Choosing single-purpose furniture over multifunctional pieces

Versatility is key in small gardens as you need to be able to get as much as possible out of your space, and that extends to choosing your furniture. Avoid pieces that are only useful for one purpose.

For instance, instead of opting for that on-trend egg chair, think about benches or sofas which lift up to reveal storage space, or consider a bistro set, such as this Habitat Eden 2 Seater Metal Bistro Set. Seating two people rather than one, it can also be folded away when not in use, and provides a space for alfresco dining as well as a quick sit-down with a cuppa.

Tie-on cushions will keep everyone feeling comfortable, too. You can also find tables which have built-in fire pits or ice buckets, which can then be covered when not in use – ideal for taking your outdoor entertaining up a notch.

You can extend the idea to your hard landscaping too. If you're opting for raised beds or small garden walls in your plot, then these can also double up as benches.

Shop for multi-purpose garden items

3. Planting trees that are too big

If space is at a premium, planting a large tree (or a small tree that will quickly turn into a large one) can be a risky move. Not only will it take up precious meterage in your plot, but the canopy of leaves can also block out the light, leaving your garden feeling cold and gloomy. Plus, your planting picks will be limited, as not everything thrives in the dry and shaded patch beneath a tree.

In fact, planting a fast-growing evergreen shrub (such as leylandii) isn't a good idea either, as it can quickly take over your garden without regular maintenance.

There are, however, some very good choices which are suitable for small plots, or even for growing in pots, which can add colour and character and are low maintenance too. Our guides on the best trees for small gardens and best trees to grow in pots are great places to start.

4. Picking paving that overwhelms the space

Overly fussy or dark paving is a classic patio mistake and can overwhelm a small space, making it feel claustrophobic. Instead, pick larger tiles says Isabel Fernandez, director at Quorn Stone, as this creates a more subtle and seamless appearance. Whether you choose natural stone or porcelain pavers, picking pale tones will also help to brighten the area.

To take it a step further, use the same paving both indoors and out (a particularly effective trick if you have French doors, bi-folds or accordion doors). That way, your living space will feel extended with an open and airy sense of flow.

"We also recommend choosing a grout colour that is a close colour match to the paver itself," adds Isabel. "This helps the grout to blend in with the pavers and gives the illusion of a larger area."

5. Not settling on a cohesive colour scheme

It's easy to get carried away when picking plants for your small garden and go for one in every colour. However, once you add them to your garden, you might find that the lack of cohesion leads to a sense of chaos.

It's the same for furniture and accessories too, along with your flooring, fences and walls. So, rather than throwing together a mishmash of random hues, restore a sense of balance with a tonal palette that enhances the mood you want to create.

Neutrals are a failsafe choice for pared-down elegance, and can feel beachy, Scandinavian-chic, or luxe depending on the textural finishes. Soft antique white mixed with billowing planting of white gaura, cosmos, hollyhocks and roses can even create a cottage garden feel. Or, you might want to go for gentle pastels, pretty pinks, or even jolly yellows mixed with pops of purple for a striking look.

Alternatively, dark and moody tones are great for making a bolder statement with an industrial edge and will help jewel-coloured planting or acid-green ferns to pop. What's more, painting a wall or fence in a darker shade can help the boundaries of your plot seem to recede, making them less noticeable.

Shop for a single colour planting scheme

6. Adding an unnecessary lawn 'just because'

Although a section of lawn may be tempting, in a small plot this isn't a decision to take lightly.

First of all, a lawn needs a lawn mower, and a lawn mower needs somewhere dry to live when not in use, so you'll need to sacrifice space for garden storage. Second, lawns require a lot more maintenance than other types of ground cover.

A small lawn will be quick to look after, but you might decide that it's not really worth the bother. Also, remember that a lawn shouldn't be walked on if it's rainy or the ground is frozen. So, if you live somewhere where these conditions are frequent, a lawn will automatically reduce the amount of your garden that you can actually use throughout the year. And finally, if your plot is shady, then you could be facing a losing battle anyway – most lawns need a minimum of four to six hours of sunlight a day for healthy, lush results.

So what are the alternatives to grass? There are plenty of stunning small decking ideas or small patio ideas to try, whilst a gravel garden can offer a more relaxed (and budget-friendly) look. If you want something softer and more organic, then bark chippings might be the way forward.

7. Forgetting about the sun

"Everyone wants a garden that's visually appealing," says Chris Bonnett, founder of GardeningExpress. But it's also important to think about the conditions your plants need when designing your small outdoor space.

"Consider things like where the sun rises and sets and where the most shade is – this will help you to decide where the best location is to grow any plants and crops," Chris says. This is especially important in smaller city gardens, which are often overshadowed by surrounding walls or buildings.

Think 'right plant, right place' when planning your scheme and you will be rewarded with a garden that thrives. Our guide to shade loving plants will come in useful if your plot is lacking lots of sun.

Of course, it's not just the plants that you need to think about – you and your guests will probably want to enjoy some of that sunshine too. Bear this in mind when planning any outdoor seating areas – a bench that catches the evening sun will be much more tempting than one that is banished to a dark and dreary corner.

8. Holding back on borders

There are so many opportunities when it comes to designing your garden borders – from ornamental grasses to soothing colours and even scented picks. But when it comes to planning areas of planting for a small garden, it's easy to hold back. After all, a less-than-large plot should have less-then-large flowerbeds to match, right? Not necessarily.

Skimping on your borders is one of those small garden design mistakes that seems to make sense at the time. But actually, being bold and making them wider will not only give your plants more space to flourish, but it will also enable you to add layers and play with different heights. What's more, a bigger border will create much more of a statement in a small plot and help to draw the eye.

It's the same with planters – a couple of bold planters will look more stylish than a fussy cluster of little ones. Plus, they'll be easier to maintain.

Top tip: avoid cramming in too many plants when preparing your border. Instead, do your research to check how much they will spread as they establish and space them out accordingly.

Clear on what you should and shouldn't do to avoid small garden design mistakes? Next head off to our guide on the best ways to make a small patio look bigger. And, if your budget size matches your garden size, take on board these small garden budget ideas too.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Free from chlorine and other chemicals found in our tap water, rainwater is a healthier choice for our plants, containing beneficial nitrates and other organic matter.

If you want to get ahead of the next hosepipe ban by adding a water butt to your garden, we've explained everything you need to know about this eco-friendly garden update below.

Tips for using a water butt in your garden

1. Water butts typically attach to downpipes running from gutters and are fed by a diverter that syphons water from the downpipe into the butt. Once full, the rainwater coming off the roof simply continues into the drain.
2. Ideally, position a water butt where you most need water, such as next to your vegetable garden, or near the house for easy access when watering houseplants.
3. Site the rain barrel in the shade if possible. Keeping it cool will reduce the chance of bacteria flourishing.
4. Raise your water butt off the ground so you can use the tap at the bottom and fit a watering can underneath. If the butt does not come with a stand, create a base to stand it on using an even stack of bricks.
5. Make sure your water butt has a lid to stop debris falling in and to prevent flies and mosquitoes laying eggs in the water.
6. Try making a filter to cover the inlet to the rain barrel and prevent leaves and other debris contaminating your stored water.
7. Water butts come in a range of different sizes and there will be one to fit the space you have available in your garden landscaping. You can also join several together if you have a large garden.
8. Water butts are easy to install and widely available online and from DIY stores. Installation kits include the barrel, a diverter and a tap for filling a watering can.
9. Don't forget about your lovely supply of fresh rainwater. Using the water frequently helps to dilute stored water with fresh water to help keep the water clean.

Water butt shopping picks

Why do you need a water butt in your garden?

"Gardeners are having to be smart about how they water their gardens by investing in a water butt," says Mark Gush, Head of Environmental Horticulture at the RHS. "Thinking ahead is one of the best things we can do in preparing our green spaces for weather extremes, ensuring that even during the height of summer they provide a green oasis."

Gardening journalist Ruth Hayes agrees on the importance of water butts. She has five (yes five!) situated around her garden.

"Water butts are an essential piece of gardening equipment because harvested rainwater is better for plants than tap water, and of course once you’ve got your butt installed, collecting water is free and saves money as part of your garden water saving," she says.

"Mine are attached to downpipes from the house, the greenhouse and the shed, which makes it so much easier to transport water to exactly where it's needed, and between them they hold a whopping 800 litres of water when full."

What's the best design for a water butt?

There are plenty of widely available options to choose from including smart designer styles. The most common variety of water butt tends to be those made of green plastic with a black lid.

However, there are a variety of other designs and shapes available, including ones that are beehive-shaped or slimline, as well as a variety of materials such as clay, wood or terracotta (like this one from Amazon). So whether you have a cottage garden or a more modern garden, you'll be able to find a design to suit your space.

You can also buy water butts with integrated planters, as well as slimline models for slotting into narrow spaces as part of your small garden ideas. You can, of course, also have a go at making your own if you're looking for a budget garden idea and are up for an easy DIY project.

How do you keep the water in a water butt fresh?

"There are a number of steps you can take to ensure the water in your water butt or rain barrel stays fresh for as long as possible," says Hozelock's Sarah Dixon.

"First, keep the butt or barrel out of the sunlight as much as possible, otherwise algae and bacteria will start to form. It is also important to keep the top covered, as this will prevent any debris from getting inside and contaminating the water.

"There are also a number of treatments available, such as Hozelock's Water Butt Treatment (available on Amazon), which have been formulated to treat stored water by preventing unpleasant odours and keeping it free from slime and algae."

What are the problems with water butts?

Water butts are easy to use and pretty much problem-free. But one thing to remember is that it's important to keep downpipes and gutters clear of leaves, moss and any other debris, especially in the autumn, as they will block water getting into your barrel and also increase the risk of contamination.

"It's important to keep your water butt covered with a secure lid," says the experts at Envii. "Mosquitoes don’t like moving water, which means the still water in rain barrels is the perfect breeding ground for them. A secure, fastened lid will help to keep them out.

"If mosquitoes do make their way into your rain barrel, mix a small amount of olive oil with water and spray over the top of the stagnant water. This will create a film over the surface of the water and kill off the mosquito larvae."

How often do you need to clean a water butt?

When it comes to how often to clean a rain barrel, the expert advice is pretty consistent. "I advise cleaning your rain barrel annually," says Ruth Hayes, "either by disconnecting it and giving it a scrub or, more easily, by using a treatment that you can drop straight into the barrel."

The experts at Envii agree that once a year is the way to go. "Autumn is the best time to do it. Clean the outside of the butt using a garden hose to remove grime and stains. Scrub the interior to remove algae and sludge that builds up around the sides.

"Avoid using cleaning products as these can leach into the water and contaminate your soil when watering plants. Instead, use warm water with a mild washing-up detergent, avoiding the use of antibacterial detergents."

By following these expert tips, you'll be able to make the most of your water butt – saving money on your bills and lowering your carbon emissions while giving your plants healthier water.

For more garden advice, read our guide on the best time to water your plants or learn what drip irrigation systems are.

Naturally, they're a favourite for Mediterranean planting schemes, and look particularly striking in a large terracotta pot. They're easily one of the best trees for small gardens, with their silvery leaves, elegant structure and tolerance to drought.

If you have one, at some stage, you'll probably wonder when and how to give it a trim. Once you've got the right tools at the ready, it couldn't be simpler.

How do I prune an olive tree?

Follow these steps on how to prune olive trees to keep them happy, healthy and looking great in your garden design:

Step one:
Start by gathering your tools. For smaller trees, a pair of bypass secateurs or pruning shears may be all you need, but for more mature trees, you may want to invest in a hand saw or loppers.

Make sure you clean your pruning shears or other cutting tools and ensure they are sharp before you begin, to prevent damaging the plant or spreading any lingering diseases or pest.

Step two:
Shorten any dead, diseased, or dying shoots, cutting them at a slant right back to live, healthy growth.

Step three:
Then, you can work on cutting back weaker, thinner branches to open up the structure at the center of the tree. This will allow it to get more sunlight and ensure a brisk flow of air, explains John Negus, a renowned horticulturalist and gardening journalist.

"Provided you remove only a small amount of growth ­– no more than 23cm ­– from the central leader and other stems, it won't trigger what are called 'water shoots'," adds John. These appear from drastically pruned stems and have no value to the tree.

Step four:
Speaking of, remove any existing water shoots you spot, as well as any suckers on the trunk below the main fork of the tree.

Step five:
If you want to restrict the size of your olive tree, which is common if using them for container gardening, the RHS says to tip prune the main branches. Simply cut them back to a strong replacement shoot.

What you will need

When is the best time for pruning olive trees?

The best time to prune olive trees is between mid-spring and early summer, advises John Negus. Olives are more susceptible to frost damage if you prune them during colder temperatures, so it's much better to wait until the weather is warmer.

According to Thompson & Morgan, olive trees grown in pots may need another light prune later in the summer to help keep their size in check.

Avoid pruning if rain is forecasted, too, as doing so in wet conditions makes them more vulnerable to disease.

It's also wise to wait until your olive is at least two years old to start pruning it. After that, an annual trim will be beneficial.

What are the benefits of pruning olive trees?

As is the case when pruning shrubs and other trees, giving olive trees an annual cut has many benefits.

First, there's the aesthetic value: it helps to create a neater, more visually-pleasing, wine-glass-shaped structure. And then there's the boost it can give to the trees' health.

Pruning out dead or diseased wood will enable it to grow stronger. For instance, some olive trees can suffer from fungal infections, such as olive peacock spot, which causes leaves to turn yellow and develop 'eyed' blotches. Cutting off and discarding all the affected growth can help it bounce back to its former glory.

What's more, opening up the structure of the olive tree can prevent it from getting some diseases in the first place, and will enable all areas of the tree to get as much sunlight as possible to grow healthily and produce more fruit.

Pruning your olive tree is one of the easiest ways to ensure it thrives all year long, preventing disease and helping it grow stronger, so it's well worth adding it to your gardening to-do list before the colder weather hits.

For more advice and inspiration, read our guide on the worst time to prune hedges or browse through these Mediterranean garden ideas.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

A serious fungal disease, scientifically known as Diplocarpon rosae, it diminishes vigour of growth dramatically and causes markings on the foliage. In severe cases of this rose disease, leaves will drop off completely. But, there are a few tricks and tips you can follow to reduce the risk of black spot occurring.

To help you keep yours looking tip-top, we explain how to avoid black spot, how to identify it, and what to do if your plants become infected.

How can you identify rose black spot?

As renowned horticulturalist John Negus says, most types of roses suffer from black spot at some point. But, if you do see it on your plants, don't despair – "many bounce back with a little care."

Signs of the disease can appear in spring, although it tends to be at its worst in warm, wet summers.

The fungus itself is genetically very diverse – as the RHS explains – with new strains rapidly arising. However, you are likely to see some of the following symptoms:

• Black or purple patches appearing on the tops of leaves, sometimes with the surrounding tissue turning yellow.
• Infected leaves falling off.
• Small, scabby, black lesions appearing on young stems of the plant.
• Reduced vigour.

How do you treat rose black spot?

Spotted this disease on the roses in your cottage garden or garden planters? Try the following steps for rose black spot treatment:

1. If you've found black spot on your rose, spray the plant with a systemic fungicide, advises John. There are plenty of suitable rose treatments available on Amazon.
2. He also says to feed bushes with 28g per m2 of sulfate of potash. Sprinkle it over the root area monthly, from mid-spring to early autumn, and water it in. "Potash strengthens growth and builds resistance to infection." This Vitax sulfate of potash on Amazon is highly rated by reviewers.
3. "In autumn, bin the fallen leaves before they disperse spores into the soil," John continues. Make sure you are vigilant in clearing them away – any left over are a potential source for re-infection.
4. Then, get mulching – a thick layer will trap spores in the ground. "Like many fungal diseases, black spot is spread through water splash and if the spores are buried under mulch they can't be splashed onto the leaves."
5. When pruning roses in late winter, make sure you remove any stems showing signs of lesions that can also release spores. Clean your secateurs thoroughly before and after to prevent the disease from spreading.
6. Next year, spray again with fungicide before signs of disease appear.

How do you avoid rose black spot?

With some plants, cultivars have been specifically bred to have resistance to common diseases. For instance, 'Crimson Crush', amongst others, is a type of tomato that is particularly resistant to tomato blight. However, rose cultivars that are bred to be resistant to black spot don't stay resistant for long. As the RHS explains, they are generally overcome by the disease as new strains of the fungus arise.

But, there are still a few things you can do to try to keep black spot away from your roses in the first place.

Proper maintenance is always important for healthy plants. "Liquid feed your rose weekly and alternate with a fertiliser that contains good levels of nitrogen for strong, leafy growth," says John.

Also, try to improve the airflow around your plants – doing so will discourage the growth of fungus, which does best in damp, humid conditions. It's good practice to avoid watering your plants from above, too, to try and keep the foliage as dry as possible.

FAQs

Can cornmeal protect roses from black spot?

Cornmeal, better known as cornflour or polenta, has been said to help protect plants from rose black spot. This is because it contains a fungus called Trichoderma which destroys the fungus.

"The advice given is to spread a handful around the base of a rose bush in spring as the buds start to appear," says John. "Work it into the soil, water in, and mulch.

"Repeat this once a month during the growing season and the rose should remain free from black spot. It won't cure any affected leaves, but it will keep all new growth clean, which is why it is best applied as the buds are beginning to open."

Whether you've planted roses in pots or in your flowerbeds, it's important to keep a lookout for signs of black spot so you can nip it in the bud before it gets out of control.

Following our simple care guide means your roses will have the best chance of producing stunning blooms year after year.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Even though this is the month where the garden should be ticking over nicely, full of colourful flowers and ripening crops, it's not a time when gardeners can rest on their laurels.

There are still plenty of jobs to be done, whether it's weeding and deadheading flowers, on-going lawn care or keeping pests in check. So add these August gardening jobs to your to-do list – even if it's just a few, you'll soon see the benefits of your hard work.

1. Plant a late summer container

Garden planter ideas are a wonderful way of adding pops of colour to the garden. Although most summer bedding plants have gone from the garden centres now, there are still lots of plants that can be used in pots, and many of them, including dahlias, gaillardias, begonias and salvias, will flower well into the autumn.

One of my favourite methods is to begin with the tallest central plant then add smaller and trailing varieties around the edge. Gaps will fill as the plants grow. In my pot I included an orange 'Bishop's Children' dahlia, with astilbe, variegated ivy and a silvery Calocephalus for contrast.

Always raise your garden planter up on feet to help excess water escape and to prevent waterlogging, which will drive oxygen from the compost and effectively 'drown' the plant. Pot feet also make it harder for pests to crawl in from below.

Watering plants well is essential to help settle the plants, firm compost around their roots and activate water-retaining granules, if used.

Top tip: If you are not sure whether your pot or basket needs watering, stick a finger in it up to the first knuckle. If it feels dry, get watering!

2. Protect wooden structures and fences before winter

Wooden structures such as sheds and garden fences take quite a battering through the year and need protection against harsh weather and extremes of temperatures.

Once treated with paint, varnish or preservative they are more likely to successfully withstand the elements. However, one application isn’t enough and you need to repeat the process every couple of years to keep them in good condition.

While it’s traditional to use oil, preservative or paint in neutral colours, using coloured exterior wood paint can help add another lively dimension to your plot.

Whether you're painting a fence or shed, choose a dry day and before painting or preserving clean your fence or shed by brushing or wiping the surface to remove moss, algae and debris and, if wet, let it dry before painting.

If painting the shed, stick masking tape around the edges of the windows so you don’t get paint on the glass.

Top tip: Always follow the grain of the wood when applying preservative or paint as it will be easier to apply and give better coverage. More than one coat may be needed.

Shop for fence and shed paint

3. Propagate strawberries for better berries

If you've learned how to grow strawberries this summer, your strawberry plants will now merrily be sending out runners, long overground shoots that sprout tufts of leaves that root where they touch the soil, creating new plants.

If you don’t want these to take up residence close to the parent plants, dig them up and pot them up, still attached by the runner. They can be cut free when they have successfully rooted and started to grow, and the runner has dried and shrivelled.

These new plants will be used to replace older ones next spring as strawberries tend to become less productive and more disease-prone after three or four years.

Simply find a runner that has healthy leaves and roots appearing along its length. Set the leafy part of the runner on a pot of compost and add more to cover the roots, then secure the plantlet to the compost using pegs on either side to hold the runner in place.

Water the pot, leave it by the parent plant until the new plant starts to grow, then cut it free.

Top tip: Find somewhere new to grow your strawberries every three or four years to keep them productive and prevent a build-up of diseases in the soil.

4. Tackle lawn weeds

Summer is tough for lawns, especially when we have had multiple heatwaves and no rain. Don’t worry though, your grass will quickly recover when the rains return, and in the meantime there are a few things you can do to keep it looking as good as it can right now.

If you're not sure how to get rid of lawn weeds, you can tackle broadleaved weeds such as dandelions, black medic and clover either with a lawn weed killer (never use general weedkiller as it kills grass too) or by digging them out.

If you have any bare patches, water them well then sow a feed and seed mix onto the soil. Fork it in and protect the patch from birds using netting pegged over the top. Keep soil damp as seeds germinate.

Try this Walensee Weed Puller from Amazon to pull up weeds while remaining standing upright.

Top tip: Don’t waste water on your lawn as it will start to green up as soon as it rains. Save the water for crops and new plants that need all the help they can get.

5. Cut back and deadhead plants

Deadheading flowers such as hydrangeas, penstemons and other perennials and annuals as soon as their blooms start to fade will encourage further blooms.

Bring the colour and scents of the garden indoors by cutting flowers for vases. This will also prompt many of them to flower again, later in fall.

Top tip: Always keep your best shears and secateurs sharp and clean to avoid damaging plant stems and spreading pests and diseases.

6. Catch up on maintenance

It’s been a busy summer so there is every chance your shed will be a bit of a mess, with piles of dirty pots, old seed packets and tools hastily put down and not put away.

Make tidying up your shed storage one of your August gardening jobs. Start by washing tools and then storing everything in its proper place. Tools should be disinfected and sharpened before autumn’s pruning and bed clearance starts.

7. Take care of garden wildlife

Continuing to feed garden birds and wildlife is important at all times of the year, so don't forget to include it on your list of August gardening jobs. You should provide them both with fresh water for drinking and bathing, especially during prolonged dry spells.

As autumn approaches, do a garden audit and work out what you could do to improve your eco-friendly garden.

Sow and plant pollinator-friendly flowers such as sunflowers, sweet peas, cerinthe, pulmonaria, globe thistle and sedum and create a scruffy area where wildlife and invertebrates can hide.

If you want to know how to help hedgehogs in summer, or as it's coming to an end, it's a good idea to feed them with dry cat food and give them fresh water. Never give them milk as it will upset their stomach, and don't feed with mealworms as they cause calcium deficiency leading to weakened bones.

8. Install a water butt or two

With hosepipe bans in place and less rain, watering your garden in August can be a challenge. "Although it’s warm, well-established lawns should be watered less frequently, but deeply," says Simon Parry, a TrexPro^® composite decking installer and founder of Simon Parry Gardening. "This ensures the roots remain healthy. However, new lawns with less-established root patterns dry out quicker so need watering more.

"For fruit and vegetables, regular watering is still necessary in August, as hot weather triggers faster evaporation. Similarly, any crops that are flowering or patio container plants need regular watering too," he continues. "Evergreen shrubs maintain their foliage all-year-round, so watering them well will also ensure next year’s buds develop well.

"Compost heaps can also dry out and then stop working through dry, hot spells," he warns. "By giving them a water they will continue the composting process."

But, with water restrictions in place, one of the best garden water saving tips you can employ ready for next year, is to install a water butt before autumn and winter rains arrive. In fact, if you have the space, install as many as you can on downpipes from the house, garage and greenhouse.

Water butts are widely available from DIY stores and online and they are easy to install. They save money if you are on a water meter, and if you put one close to areas of the garden that need a lot of water they will save you time and energy too, as you won't have to carry heavy watering cans for long distances.

Top tip: Tie an old pair of tights over a downpipe leading to a water butt to filter out any debris. Just remember to empty the tights regularly.

9. Take cuttings of tender perennials

Take cuttings from tender perennials such as pelargoniums before you lift and store them in a frost-free greenhouse over winter.

The cuttings will give you more plants and also act as an ‘insurance policy’ in case the parent plants don’t survive winter.

Once you've taken your cutting, insert them into a pot of seed compost or peat-free compost that’s been mixed with grit to improve drainage, and set them somewhere warm and light, but out of direct sunlight. The cuttings should start to root in 4-6 weeks, at which time they will start to grow.

Top tip: You can either leave your cuttings where they are or pot them up individually in peat-free compost in a few months’ time. Keep them in a frost-free greenhouse or cool room over the winter.

10. Protect your plants if you're going away

August is a prime month for holidays, whether at home or abroad. For best results, group pots together in a sheltered, shady spot to reduce moisture loss and make sure you give them a good soaking before you leave for holiday.

Adding a drip irrigation system on a timer, could also help ensure your garden borders or veggie patches stay refreshed while you're away.

Indoors, place houseplants on towels draped into a sink or bucket of water to act as a ‘wick’. You can also buy self-watering systems for pot plants that simply stick into the soil and plants draw water from them as needed.

11. Give your lawn a much-needed boost

Spend time on your lawn care as part of your August gardening jobs and it will lead to a better-looking lawn for next year.

Scarifying the lawn by raking it will remove dead (grass) thatch. You can then aerate it with a fork or spike to improve drainage, and top-dress using a mix of sharp sand or compost.

Feeding your lawn with an autumn granular food and moss killer will also help it over winter. Remember though, when you're mowing the lawn during hot spells, don't cut it too short as this can cause the grass to brown.

Raising your mower blades if you are cutting it is a must, according to Simon Parry. "Raising the cutting height will keep the grass slightly longer, which helps to shield the roots from the heat," he explains. "It is best to cut your lawn every 1-2 weeks and leave the short clippings where they are, so when it is hot they can act like mulch," he adds.

12. Get to grips with weeds

Weeds can feel like unwanted guests at the best of times, but especially during summer when you want your garden to be looking its very best. Spend an afternoon digging up weeds and pulling them up by the root.

It's worth investing in a pair of gardening gloves, as you may find that some weeds are spiky and can irritate the skin. This Spear & Jackson The Kew Gardens Gloves Trio Pack from Argos should provide you with a pair for all the different gardening jobs you'll do throughout the year.

The general rule for how to get rid of weeds most effectively is weeding little and often, as the more frequently you weed the less effort it is to get rid of them before they have taken root.

Of course, once August is over, your garden will still need your care and attention as we move into Autumn. Find out the 10 September gardening jobs you'll need to add to your next list, and which plants you need to prune in September before it's too late.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

The decking around your pool also plays a big role in the overall look and feel of the area, whether you're opting for a composite design with matching railings, rustic timber boards, or a sleek and contemporary style.

There are lots of options to choose from, so if you're planning a big garden makeover and are factoring pool ideas into the equation, we're here to help. We've rounded up plenty of looks for you to peruse, to get you inspired for your own piece of paradise.

1. Surround a decked space with greenery

Want to get back in touch with nature? Surrounding timber decking ideas with plenty of greenery is a winning approach – whether that's ornamental grasses, structural evergreen shrubs, or a selection of small trees for a woodland feel.

We're big fans of this scheme, where a wooden walkway leads the way to a relaxing oasis that's clear of clutter. The orderly lines of the natural material underfoot contrast well against all the foliage, while the pared-back furniture ties into the set-up beautifully. The circular shape of the pool completes the oasis-like feel of the finished scheme.

2. Add stylish railings to an elevated pool deck

Decking areas are ideal for terracing a space and making the most of a sloping plot, or even elevating the view as seen here. However, you'll need to consider decking balustrade ideas to keep things safe.

This smart design offers a well-defined boundary and complements the tone of the composite decking underfoot, too. And speaking of the decking, note how the boards are set diagonally, which draws the eye and adds an extra element of interest to the zone.

Here, pavers are used for the immediate surrounding of the pool, known as the coping. These add a pleasing contrast in texture and tie in with the textural stone wall nearby, which hosts a luxurious fire pit.

3. Pair warm-toned timber with a round pool

A circular type of swimming pool is perfect if you're looking to relax rather than swim laps. Neatly defined by a concrete border and then narrow planks of natural, almost red-hued timber, this space would transport anyone to the tropics, especially with that backdrop of foliage.

It's a great approach if you're looking for pool landscaping that feels a little more laid-back. Add plenty of sun loungers and a parasol or two and you've got the perfect set-up for a pool party.

4. Light up your pool decking when night falls

Adding decking lighting to your pool's surroundings will allow you to take a nighttime swim safely – and what could be better than enjoying a peaceful dip beneath the stars?

For a sleek finish, install recessed designs that will look subtle by day yet provide plenty of light when darkness falls. Use them to illuminate nearby steps too, as shown here, for extra style and safety points.

A sturdy deck can also be the base for a show-stopping pergola – the perfect place to shelter from the sun after a swim. We like the combo of textures underfoot in this set-up too – that curved concrete edge offers a striking yet smart contrast.

5. Go for non-slip styles with a decorative twist

If you're looking for pool decking ideas that create a naturalistic, laid-back vibe, then timber might be the way forward. However, it can be more slippery than composite designs.

To give your space a helping hand in the safety department, be sure to choose a non-slip material that has plenty of grooves for grip. Or, opt for slippery decking solutions such as this Anti-Slip Decking from B&Q, or non-slip inserts, like the decorative border spotted around this pool.

And if you think it might feel rough underfoot, think again. For many products, "feeling the non-slip aggregate with your hands can feel coarse to sensitive fingers, however, when walking across with harder skin on the soles and balls of your feet, it is like walking across any other surface," says Mike Nicholson, managing director at Gripsure.

6. Pair pale decking with a darker pergola for elegant style

This scene is full of Mediterranean charm. We think it's the ideal space to spend a relaxing afternoon poolside, with a glass of something chilled in hand.

With the plants and vines cascading over the pergola roof, it's a great way to bring your Mediterranean garden ideas to life. The pale decking looks beautiful alongside the crisp blue water, while the darker paint colour of the pergola anchors it in place.

Top off with colour co-ordinated accessories and you'll be the envy of your neighbours.

7. Create an open-plan feel

Embrace modern garden ideas by opting for narrow planks in an understated grey tone that go right up to the edge of your pool. The result feels clean and contemporary, and works well for an open-plan scheme like this.

Continue the decking around the side of your home for a seamless sense of flow, or even match the style with your interior's flooring for a real indoor-outdoor-living vibe.

Add a dining set, a corner sofa, and some fuss-free garden lighting for a chic finishing touch.

8. Incorporate clever seating

Opt for a cohesive scheme for your pool area with a timber deck, timber decking steps, and even built-in timber benches cosied up with cushions.

The soft, natural tone of the wood in this space looks great alongside matching planters and a bright white exterior wall. But if you prefer something sleeker and more modern, then how about picking pale, non-slip porcelain patio paving rather than decking instead?

9. Admire the view from a two-tiered pool deck

If you have the budget, consider adding tiered areas to the space around your pool to create different zones. The immediate surroundings are perfect for a sunbathing spot, while a higher tier could be just the place to position a outdoor dining space or even an outdoor kitchen area. And if you have kids, it's a great way to keep an eye on them while you entertain guests.

Use the same material underfoot to tie the spaces together. Or, opt for two slightly different yet complementary looks for a greater sense of definition between the zones.

10. Build a pool house for ultimate convenience

Have you browsed through our pool house ideas yet? They are a brilliant option for taking a pool space up a level as they provide a place to change clothes, entertain, or simply lounge when taking a break from the sun.

Whether it's a bespoke built pool house, or a garden room that's converted into one, make sure you understand how experts design a pool house before you embark on your own plans to ensure you avoid any mistakes.

11. Go for durable pavers for a modern look

Timber or composite pool decking ideas not your style? There are plenty of decking alternatives to choose from. Concrete or stone paving for pool patio ideas can look super smart, are durable against the elements, and can be finished with a subtle texture to provide grip underfoot.

This space feels fresh and modern with the pale grey pavers offering a touch of industrial chic. We like how they tie together with the white wall and fringed parasol, while the tropical-style planting alongside makes a modern statement.

FAQs

What is the best material to use for pool decking?

Whether you're going for a traditional sunken pool or an above-ground style, you will need to factor in safety as a priority when choosing the surroundings for your swimming pool ideas.

"It's essential to choose a decking material that performs well around a pool," says Karl Harrison, Trex Pro decking expert and founder of Karl Harrison Design. "The decking you choose should consider slip-resistance, performance, durability and longevity."

Mike Nicholson, adds, "getting in and out of swimming pools and walking across a deck or other surfaces dripping wet is potentially dangerous as the water makes the surface slippery. As a solution to this, choosing a non-slip product can keep families and guests safe whilst using pools."

Some may argue that composite is a better choice than timber when it comes to pool decking materials. It tends to be smooth yet grippy underfoot, without the risk of splintering. Plus, it requires less maintenance, won't absorb water, and, it "has an impressive likeness to traditional hardwoods, with real woodgrain effects and colours, meaning it looks just as good as its natural counterpart," says Charles Taylor, director of Composite Prime.

However, composite decking costs will be more expensive. If you do want to stick to timber, be sure to select a high-quality material – an exotic hardwood, or teak, for instance – which has been treated properly for the purpose and is less likely to warp over time.

Of course, you may prefer to opt for paving or even budget-friendly concrete around your pool instead. Both can look extremely stylish and can be very durable, but just be aware of the slip factor when wet.

How much does pool decking cost?

Knowing how much landscaping costs is an important factor when planning an outdoor update, and budgeting for pool decking ideas is no exception.

According to Checkatrade, pool decking costs will be similar to your garden decking costs, and will depend on the following factors:

• Material (eg. wood, poured concrete or composite)
• Size
• Quality and brand
• Location
• The difficulty of the terrain
• Style (e.g., splash deck that goes all the way around or side deck which is a singular landing on one side)
• Elevated or non-elevated
• Extras (eg. railings or stairs)

So while exact figures aren't possible to provide, the Checkatrade advice suggests using the following guidelines.

"As the average pool deck is approximately 55-85 m2 (it’s recommended to have roughly 4 feet of decking on each side of the pool and 8 feet at each end). With this in mind, an 80 m2 non-elevated softwood deck with no railings or stairs would cost around £4,600. This would rise to £6,900 for a hardwood deck or £9,500 for a composite deck. However, if you were to build an elevated deck that has railings and stairs, you’re suddenly looking at around £6,500 for softwood, £9,800 for hardwood or £19,040 for composite."

With costs for pool decking varying, start by understanding how much a swimming pool costs so you can establish what you can allocate in your budget to go on your poolside finish. And, to avoid spending extra, make sure you avoid these swimming pool mistakes too.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

With their abundance of impressively sized blooms in blue, pink, lime-green or white, it's no surprise that these shrubs have made a serious comeback recently. They bring stylish structure and form to both contemporary and cottage-style garden schemes, and growing hydrangeas is undemanding, too.

So, if you're looking for a budget-friendly approach for filling your garden with these show-stopping shrubs, this guide is sure to come in handy.

Easy steps for propagating hydrangeas from cuttings

Taking cuttings from plants is a wonderful way to increase your collection and add more foliage and flowers to your plot for free. And with hydrangeas, it's simple.

You can take softwood cuttings from spring to early summer. As the RHS advises, take your cutting from the soft and flexible young shoot tips, which will root readily. Alternatively, you can take semi-ripe cuttings in mid-summer (which will have a woody base), or hardwood cuttings in winter.

Whichever approach you go for, ensure you use a sharp, clean pair of secateurs – Spear and Jackson's Razorsharp bypass secateurs on Amazon are highly rated by reviewers.

Follow these simple steps:

1. Once you have taken your cuttings, put them into a pot of gritty compost, water well, then place the pot in a propagator or cover it with a transparent plastic bag for around six weeks. If you're using the plastic bag approach, briefly remove and shake it out daily to avoid too much condensation building up.
2. Keep your hydrangea cuttings somewhere frost-free over winter, then pot on into a bigger pot when fresh growth appears in spring.
3. Renowned gardening expert John Negus suggests liquid feeding your hydrangea cuttings with a high-potash tomato fertiliser. "Apply it weekly, making sure that the cutting compost is damp," he says. Levington Tomorite, available from Amazon, is a popular variety.
4. Remember to harden off your cuttings for two to three weeks before planting them in their final position outdoors. This involves putting your hydrangea cuttings outside in their pots for a few hours a day to begin with, before taking them back indoors overnight. It allows the plants to gradually acclimatise to being outdoors in the sun, wind and rain before being transplanted to the ground or your choice of garden planter. It's also worth remembering that it can take a couple of years for them to start flowering.

How to propagate hydrangeas from seed

It is also possible to grow hydrangeas from seed, although growing them from cuttings is much quicker and easier.

Whether you're growing hydrangeas in pots or in the ground you can get free seeds from them. Collect the tiny seeds by cutting off the dried flower heads and placing them in paper bags – allow them to continue to dry here for a few days. Then, shake the bag to allow the seeds to fall out.

Once you have your seeds, it's simply a case of sowing them in trays of potting soil, without covering them with the soil. Put them somewhere sheltered and sunny – a windowsill is ideal – and keep them moist – they should germinate within a couple of weeks. Pot them on when they are large enough to handle.

FAQs

Should you remove developing flowers on your hydrangea cuttings?

It's best to get rid of any flowers you spot on young hydrangea cuttings.

"It is not unusual for flower buds to form at the tips of hydrangea cuttings, but if you let them bloom they are liable to weaken growth," says John Negus. "The best way to remove them is with pointed scissors to avoid damaging fragile stems."

Can you divide hydrangeas to make new plants?

Another common way to propagate many outdoor and indoor plants is by dividing them up. So you may be wondering, "can you split a hydrangea?".

Unfortunately, as John Negus explains, dividing hydrangeas can be impractical as most have a single stem. But there can be exceptions. "Occasionally, if a thicket of shoots forms, the bush can be dug up and split into well-rooted clumps," he says.

If yours are like this, go ahead and divide the bushes when leaves fall, in late autumn. "Then, shorten the stems to 18in (45cm) of the base. Replant the divisions in holes two or three times the diameter of the rootball. Work in lots of compost or manure and set plants at the same depth as before.

"Water them well to ensure the roots are in close contact with the soil," he adds.

Interested in more hydrangea gardening advice?

Our guides on whether hydrangeas can grow in shade and how to change the colour of your hydrangeas are packed with useful tips to help you get the best from these much-loved plants.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

The appeal goes beyond great views. A well-designed roof terrace can extend your living area in a way a traditional garden design can't, and add genuine value in the process, all without eating into your existing floorplan.

The challenge, as with any elevated outdoor space, is knowing where to start – from access and structural considerations through to the materials and planting that will actually survive up there. If you're weighing up your options, these roof terrace ideas should provide plenty of inspiration.

1. Create 'zones' for entertaining and dining

"From my perspective, the most successful roof terraces are those that feel like a natural extension of the home rather than simply an outdoor platform," says Nick Woodhouse, creative director at Woodhouse & Law.

"Whether you're working with a compact city roof or a generous rooftop garden, the key is to create distinct zones for relaxing, dining and planting, while keeping the layout uncluttered and balanced."

This stylish setup Nick designed demonstrates just how effective a bit of 'zoning' can be. A corner sofa and coffee table create a clear lounging area, while a separate dining table with woven chairs sits at the other end for al fresco meals. A slim water feature acts as a natural divider between the two, all without making the space feel cramped or overplanned.

2. Embrace the sunset with a Mediterranean-style lounge

If your roof terrace has a clear run to the horizon, don't compete with the view, build around it. This layered seating arrangement by Rowen leans into a warm, pared-back palette of woven rattan, bleached oak and soft neutral cushions.

Two low-slung sofas angled towards each other (rather than facing the view head-on) create a sociable, conversation-friendly layout, while a pair of nesting coffee tables keep things flexible for drinks and nibbles.

As these spaces are open to the elements, weather-resistant materials that will avoid UV damage are worth prioritising. Woven synthetic rattan and powder-coated or treated timber frames will cope far better with sun and rain than their indoor equivalents, so the look holds up long after the candles have burned down.

3. Layer in comfort with soft furnishings

This outdoor space, with its backdrop of chimney pots and city skyline, shows how much considered furniture and soft styling can do for a roof terrace. A generous corner sofa and matching armchair are arranged around a low coffee table, creating a proper lounging setup rather than a few scattered chairs, with plenty of room for guests to gather comfortably.

"Selecting the right outdoor furniture is fundamental to creating a roof terrace or deck that feels like a true extension of your home – designed for socialising, entertaining and relaxing," says Eloise Pfeiffer, interior designer at Pfeiffer Design.

"Comfort should always be at the forefront, with well-proportioned sofas, armchairs and a central table providing a welcome setting where guests can gather with ease."

Here, cushions, a faux fur throw and a pop of orange add personality against the pared-back white and grey palette, while planters tucked into the corners soften the balustrade and decking.

"You can layer in softness through weather-resistant cushions and outdoor rugs, selecting high-quality, durable materials designed to withstand the elements," Eloise adds. "These tactile additions not only add comfort but also introduce colour, texture and individuality."

4. Create a rooftop bar for socialising

For a rooftop terrace with a bit of scale, an outdoor bar turns the space into somewhere to entertain guests come sundown. Here, a sleek, dark-panelled bar sits against a full living wall, with open shelving used to display bottles and glassware against the greenery. Woven bar stools soften an otherwise industrial mix of exposed brick, black steel beams and polished concrete, while a marble-effect countertop adds a touch of polish.

An outdoor feature wall can do more than look good, too – used as garden screening, it can shield the terrace from neighbouring buildings and bring some much-needed greenery to a hard, urban space.

If you like the idea, it's worth thinking early about a water source and drainage for the planting, weatherproof storage for bottles and glassware, and enough structural capacity to support the unit.

5. Make the most of a compact space

You don't need acres of decking to make a roof terrace work. This bijou setup, tucked against a planted balustrade, proves a small footprint can still feel like a proper outdoor room. A pair of folding bistro chairs and a matching table take up minimal space, while an outdoor rug adds a welcome dose of pattern underfoot.

"Even compact gardens and roof terraces can be transformed with carefully chosen details that elevate both form and function," says Eloise Pfeiffer. She recommends using, "adaptable, lightweight pieces that can be easily rearranged [to] allow the layout to evolve depending on the size and style of your gathering."

Top tip: Folding furniture – such as this Grey 2 Seater Rattan Garden Outdoor Bistro Set from B&Q – is a particularly smart choice for compact spaces, as it can be packed away entirely when not in use, or reconfigured to suit a different number of guests.

6. Add a glass balustrade to enjoy the view

Positioned high above Bath's rooftops, this terrace makes the most of its elevated setting with a frameless glass balustrade that keeps the panoramic view of the city and surrounding hills completely uninterrupted.

A generous corner sofa and sunken fire pit create a sociable spot to while away an evening, with the glass edge doing all the work of keeping the space feeling open rather than boxed in.

Glass balustrades are a popular choice for exactly this reason, though it's worth factoring in the cost of specifying toughened, structurally-rated glass, as well as a maintenance routine to keep it looking pristine – smears and watermarks show up far more readily on glass than on a solid or slatted alternative.

7. Choose frosted glass for privacy

Where a clear glass balustrade opens the view right up, frosted glass takes a different approach, offering patio privacy from neighbouring rooftops and windows while still letting plenty of light flood the terrace.

On this sunny rooftop, the pale, frosted panels blend with the white render and light timber decking, keeping the overall look soft and cohesive rather than adding a hard visual barrier.

8. Add plenty of greenery

Rooftop settings have a habit of feeling exposed and overlooked, but this London terrace shows how effectively planting can be to soften that. Statement olive trees in oversized stone planters line the boundary, joined by a tall hedge and a mix of shrubs, creating a layered green backdrop that stands in for a garden the terrace doesn't have room for.

"Layered planting in lightweight containers softens the hard architecture and helps create privacy," explains Nick Woodhouse. Lightweight containers are particularly important here, as soil-filled pots can quickly add weight. It's always worth checking load capacity before committing to a large planting scheme.

9. Keep it covered

A rooftop terrace doesn't have to mean fully exposed to the elements. This covered spot uses a slatted timber canopy and sturdy steel posts to create a shaded outdoor dining area that can be enjoyed regardless of the weather.

A pergola, a shade sail or cover like this is also worth considering if your terrace gets a lot of direct sun, offering shade during the day and helping protect furniture and soft furnishings from weathering over time.

10. Make the transition seamless with sliding doors

Sliding glass doors are doing the heavy lifting on this coastal roof terrace, opening the living space directly onto the decking and blurring the boundary between indoors and out

Achieving a seamless look like this relies on the groundwork being right, from the door threshold sitting flush with the terrace to careful detailing to keep water from tracking indoors – so it's worth bringing in an architect or structural engineer early if this is the effect you're after.

"It's essential to consider the practicalities of a roof terrace from the outset," agrees Nick Woodhouse. "Ensure the structure can support intended loads, incorporate effective drainage so water can move freely, and choose balustrades that provide safety without compromising the views."

11. Think about how you'll access the roof terrace

How you get up to your roof terrace can shape the whole design as much as what you put on it. This first example uses a hinged roof window doubling as the access point to a coastal roof terrace, fitted with an integrated ladder or fold-down step. This type of opening is a popular choice where space is tight, though it's worth checking the practicalities – how easily it opens, how it copes with rain, and whether it's manageable for everyone in the household – before committing to this route.

By contrast, the loft conversion balcony (pictured second) takes a more generous approach, with a full-width flight of stairs leading up from the house and opening directly onto the space. You could just as easily take a similar approach from the outside, with access via an external staircase.

12. Consider how it looks from afar

A roof terrace doesn't exist in isolation, it becomes part of your home's silhouette, visible from the garden, the street and every window that looks back at it. This flat-roof extension shows how effective a considered exterior treatment can be: dark, wood-effect composite external cladding wraps both the extension below and the terrace balustrade above, tying the two levels together into a single, confident architectural statement.

The glazed balustrade section is a smart move too, keeping sightlines open to the garden below without breaking up the dark cladding entirely, while planting softens the transition between the terrace and the original brick facade above.

This design proves that a roof terrace can enhance a home's exterior as much as its interior life, so it's worth thinking as much about how yours will look from the garden as how it will feel to sit in.

If a full roof terrace isn't feasible, a Juliet balcony or small loft balcony can be a good alternative, offering a breath of fresh air and a sense of connection to the outdoors, without the structural demands of a larger terrace.

These structural shrubs are renowned for their giant, fluffy heads of blooms. Growing hydrangeas is relatively easy, so they make fabulous garden staples, whether that's in a large border, planted in a pot, or to brighten up a shaded corner. But once those blooms pass their peak, they turn brown and withered, and the plants can quickly go from looking lovely to lackluster.

We explain how to neaten up the look of your hydrangea throughout the flowering season. But that's not the only benefit of deadheading hydrangeas – doing so will also allow the plants to grow stronger and encourage better blooms to form later on.

4 simple steps for deadheading hydrangeas

Deadheading flowers always improves the look of garden displays while allowing the plant to channel its energy into making better blooms and growing strongly.

With hydrangeas, it's super straightforward – just follow these steps:

1. Take a pair of secateurs or, for larger shrubs, garden pruners. Ensure they are sharp and clean so as not to damage the plant.
2. Locate the hydrangea flowers that have passed their best – their colour will have faded and become tinged with brown, and the petals will have shrivelled.
3. Remove the faded blooms with an inch of stem, says Christine Walkden, a gardening expert and BBC TV presenter. This is so that you do not prune out potential flower buds which are developing immediately beneath them, she adds.
4. At the same time, you can remove any weak or dead stems that are crowding the middle of the bush, says renowned gardening journalist John Negus. "Provided the remaining shoots are strong and healthy and air can pass freely between them, there is nothing else to do."

Shop these tools for your deadheading tasks

When is the best time for deadheading hydrangeas?

Whether you're growing hydrangeas in pots or in the ground, you can deadhead them throughout the flowering season. Start deadheading as soon as the first flowers fade, then continue as and when your shrub needs a tidy-up.

In colder regions, some gardeners choose to skip deadheading mophead varieties of hydrangeas entirely. Leaving flowers on over winter helps protect the plants from frost, as it shelters the buds.

Lacecap varieties are hardier, so there is less risk in deadheading them freely in colder areas. But, whatever your approach and variety of plants, it's generally wise to stop deadheading hydrangeas in early autumn.

What's more, if you prefer to leave the blooms to dry on the plant over winter it will add sculptural interest to your garden design. These can be snipped away the following spring, when you prune your hydrangeas.

If your hydrangeas haven't been looking their best this summer, make sure you get up to speed with the key reasons why your hydrangea might not be blooming.

And if you prefer the look of blue hydrangeas compared to pink varieties, our guide on how to change the colour of your hydrangea will come in useful.

Knowing what grows best in specific types of soil can also help you choose a mix of plants that suits the growing conditions of your garden, particularly if you're about to embark on a new landscaping design.

Soil can range from being either very acidic or alkaline. But, other soil characteristics will also play a part in how well your plants will grow. In this extensive guide we'll dig deep into everything you need to know about your garden soil.

How do you identify different soil types?

The first step to identifying the soil types in your garden is to identify whether it is acid or alkaline. Soil pH varies from around 3.5 (very acidic) to 8.5 (alkaline) – a reading of 7 is considered neutral and the optimum for most plants is 6.5.

"Most plants prefer a slightly acidic to neutral soil, around pH 6 to 7, while lime-loving plants such as lavender, clematis and many brassicas do better in more alkaline conditions," notes Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

"A home pH testing kit is also useful for establishing whether your soil is acidic, neutral or alkaline, which can help when choosing plants," says Peter Chaloner, managing director of Cobra.

This Garden Tutor Soil pH Test Kit from Amazon will help you establish which type of soil you have, while another easy way to tell is to ask your neighbours which plants they are growing in their gardens and work out the approximate pH based on what's performing well in nearby soils.

"Also pay attention to what happens after heavy rain, too," says Peter. "Water sitting on the surface can indicate heavy or compacted ground, while very rapid drainage may suggest sandy or free-draining soil. This is particularly important for lawns, as poor drainage isn't always down to soil type; compaction can be a major factor and can often be improved through aeration.”

Get your hands dirty to find out your soil type

“Another simple way to get an initial idea of your soil type is to take a handful of moist soil and squeeze it," adds Peter Chaloner. "Clay tends to feel sticky and holds its shape; sandy soil feels gritty and falls apart easily, while loam is usually crumbly but holds together loosely. Silty soil feels smooth and silky, while peaty soil is typically dark and spongy."

As well as looking at your soil, assessing how moist or dry it is, and how easily you can get your spade into it, you can also try the following simple test if you're still not sure. First, take a sample of soil from about 4–6in (10–15cm) below the surface – if you have a large plot, take a few samples from different areas. If it is not already damp, add a little water so that it's moist but not wet. Then, feel the texture with your fingers before trying to roll it into a ball.

A soil rich in clay will feel smooth and sticky and have a surface sheen like plasticine if you rub it. When rolled into a ball, clay will keep its shape well, and it can be moulded to form a long ribbon. It will also retain a fingerprint mark when you press your thumb onto it.

Sandy soil feels gritty, and when you try to roll it into a ball, it will fall apart. Silty soils have a smooth, soapy texture and will make a loose ball shape but will easily fall apart and cannot be moulded into a ribbon like clay.

A peaty soil feels spongy and won't roll into a ball – drops of water may also come out when you squeeze it. Depending on its exact make-up, you may be able to roll loam into a ball and even a ribbon shape if it's a clay loam, but it will not leave a fingerprint mark when pressed.

If you suspect your soil is chalky, check for the tell-tale signs of white chalk and stony flint in it. You can also add some soil to a jar of vinegar, and if it froths, then you know it contains chalk or limestone and will be very alkaline.

6 main types of soil

While all soils fulfil a similar function, there are many different types, and knowing which one you have in your garden will help you to choose plants adapted to thrive in your specific conditions.

Clay and sandy soils are the most common types; silty soils are less prevalent and are generally found on flood basins near rivers or where rivers have previously existed; and peaty and chalky soils are rare in gardens and exist in just a few areas of the country (at least, in the UK).

Although there is no 'good' or 'bad' soil, since there are plants adapted to each type, some can be more challenging to cultivate and may not support as many garden plants species.

1. Clay soil

These soils are made up of a large proportion of microscopic clay particles, which can become compacted, binding together tightly to form large, solid, airless clumps.

They are known as 'heavy' soils, not because they weigh more than others, but because they are difficult to dig – if you have clay, you may not be able to get even your garden spade into it in the summer.

Getting the most from clay soil

Improve the drainage by digging in as much horticultural grit, sharp sand, or even fine gravel dredged from freshwater sources as you can muster.

"Clay soil holds water and nutrients well but can become compacted and waterlogged," adds Peter Chaloner, "so regular aeration can help improve drainage and encourage stronger root growth."

Make sure you also choose the best plants for clay soil when you visit the garden centre to ensure success.

"Clay suits roses, hydrangeas, euphorbias and forsythia, plus crops such as brassicas and beans if it has been improved with compost," advises Julian Palphramand.

2. Sandy soil

Sand particles are much larger than clay, and they also have bigger spaces between them that allow water to drain through easily.

"As a result, sandy soil drains quickly and warms up early, but loses moisture and nutrients more readily, meaning lawns may need more attention to watering and feeding, particularly during dry weather," says Peter Chaolner.

Often referred to as 'light' because they are easy to dig, sandy soils also warm up quickly in spring, allowing seeds to germinate and plant growth to begin sooner than in other soils.

Getting the most from it

To give plants the best start, pour compost into each planting hole to the depth of the head of a spade.

Weeds must be kept tightly under control. For minimal maintenance, cover the earth with a weed-proof, semi-permeable membrane, securing it with stakes, then cut slits to plant through. Once planted, cover the membrane in around an inch (3cm) depth of gravel.

Expert tips

As these soils are dry and warm in early spring, they can be ideal for sowing early vegetable crops. The drier conditions, especially in winter, also suit plants such as lavender, rock roses, and olive trees – perfect picks if you're looking for Mediterranean garden ideas.

Perfect plants

"Sandy soil is good for lavender, rosemary, buddleia and root vegetables such as carrots and parsnips," notes Julian Palphramand.

Kniphofia is an exotic choice ideal for coastal gardens. Echinacea purpurea 'Doubledecker' is also a good choice, especially if you're looking for bee-friendly plants for an eco-friendly garden.

Other top picks include achillea, agapanthus, amelanchier, spring bulbs, delphinium, dianthus, fuchsia, geranium, bay, poppy, ornamental grasses, sedum, and thyme.

3. Silty soil

Silt particles are smaller than sand but larger than clay. The gaps between them allow good airflow and drainage while still retaining some water and nutrients.

Getting the most from it

Silty soils suit a wide range of plants, including any that like moist, free-draining conditions. "Silty soil is generally fertile and moisture-retentive but can be prone to compaction, making aeration beneficial," advises Peter Chaloner. Avoid walking on it while wet where possible.

Expert tips

Silt soils are prone to washing or blowing away in the rain or wind. As the RHS suggests, you can add organic matter to this type of soil to make the silt particles more stable. How about giving worm composting a go if you haven't already?

Perfect plants

Julian Palphramand tells us that, "silty soil suits a wide range of plants including hellebores, ferns and alliums, and it is excellent for most vegetables – if it does not become waterlogged."

You can also try aster (including symphyotrichum), birch, dogwood, delphinium, lupin, phlox, rose, rudbeckia, leucanthemum, sweet box, viburnum, willow, and hellebores.

4. Chalky soil

If you have chalk, you will see lumps of the soft white stone, as well as hard pieces of flint. "Chalky soil is free-draining and alkaline, so lawns can be more susceptible to nutrient deficiencies and drying out," says Peter Chaloner.

Many chalky soils are shallow, lying over a layer of chalk or limestone. They are also alkaline, free-draining and relatively infertile. If they also contain a good proportion of clay, they can be water-retentive and contain more nutrients.

Getting the most from it

"As chalky soil is often thin, it suits lavender, clematis, peonies and brassicas, as well as beetroot and spinach with regular feeding," explains Julian Palphramand.

Where you have a thin layer of soil over chalk bedrock, try learning how to plant a wildflower meadow that will thrive in these conditions. Or, try planting small species with shallow root balls.

When planting on chalk, also break up the ground to a depth of 2.5ft (75cm) to allow plants' roots to spread. Honeysuckle, euonymus, and verbascum will all love alkaline conditions.