Roof terrace ideas open up a part of the house that's all too often overlooked. Whether it's a flat roof extension crying out for a new purpose, a loft conversion with a Juliet balcony or an entire rooftop ripe for converting into an outdoor room, there's real potential above your head that most homeowners never think to use.

The appeal goes beyond great views. A well-designed roof terrace can extend your living area in a way a traditional garden design can't, and add genuine value in the process, all without eating into your existing floorplan.

The challenge, as with any elevated outdoor space, is knowing where to start – from access and structural considerations through to the materials and planting that will actually survive up there. If you're weighing up your options, these roof terrace ideas should provide plenty of inspiration.

1. Create 'zones' for entertaining and dining

"From my perspective, the most successful roof terraces are those that feel like a natural extension of the home rather than simply an outdoor platform," says Nick Woodhouse, creative director at Woodhouse & Law.

"Whether you're working with a compact city roof or a generous rooftop garden, the key is to create distinct zones for relaxing, dining and planting, while keeping the layout uncluttered and balanced."

This stylish setup Nick designed demonstrates just how effective a bit of 'zoning' can be. A corner sofa and coffee table create a clear lounging area, while a separate dining table with woven chairs sits at the other end for al fresco meals. A slim water feature acts as a natural divider between the two, all without making the space feel cramped or overplanned.

2. Embrace the sunset with a Mediterranean-style lounge

If your roof terrace has a clear run to the horizon, don't compete with the view, build around it. This layered seating arrangement by Rowen leans into a warm, pared-back palette of woven rattan, bleached oak and soft neutral cushions.

Two low-slung sofas angled towards each other (rather than facing the view head-on) create a sociable, conversation-friendly layout, while a pair of nesting coffee tables keep things flexible for drinks and nibbles.

As these spaces are open to the elements, weather-resistant materials that will avoid UV damage are worth prioritising. Woven synthetic rattan and powder-coated or treated timber frames will cope far better with sun and rain than their indoor equivalents, so the look holds up long after the candles have burned down.

3. Layer in comfort with soft furnishings

This outdoor space, with its backdrop of chimney pots and city skyline, shows how much considered furniture and soft styling can do for a roof terrace. A generous corner sofa and matching armchair are arranged around a low coffee table, creating a proper lounging setup rather than a few scattered chairs, with plenty of room for guests to gather comfortably.

"Selecting the right outdoor furniture is fundamental to creating a roof terrace or deck that feels like a true extension of your home – designed for socialising, entertaining and relaxing," says Eloise Pfeiffer, interior designer at Pfeiffer Design.

"Comfort should always be at the forefront, with well-proportioned sofas, armchairs and a central table providing a welcome setting where guests can gather with ease."

Here, cushions, a faux fur throw and a pop of orange add personality against the pared-back white and grey palette, while planters tucked into the corners soften the balustrade and decking.

"You can layer in softness through weather-resistant cushions and outdoor rugs, selecting high-quality, durable materials designed to withstand the elements," Eloise adds. "These tactile additions not only add comfort but also introduce colour, texture and individuality."

4. Create a rooftop bar for socialising

For a rooftop terrace with a bit of scale, an outdoor bar turns the space into somewhere to entertain guests come sundown. Here, a sleek, dark-panelled bar sits against a full living wall, with open shelving used to display bottles and glassware against the greenery. Woven bar stools soften an otherwise industrial mix of exposed brick, black steel beams and polished concrete, while a marble-effect countertop adds a touch of polish.

An outdoor feature wall can do more than look good, too – used as garden screening, it can shield the terrace from neighbouring buildings and bring some much-needed greenery to a hard, urban space.

If you like the idea, it's worth thinking early about a water source and drainage for the planting, weatherproof storage for bottles and glassware, and enough structural capacity to support the unit.

5. Make the most of a compact space

You don't need acres of decking to make a roof terrace work. This bijou setup, tucked against a planted balustrade, proves a small footprint can still feel like a proper outdoor room. A pair of folding bistro chairs and a matching table take up minimal space, while an outdoor rug adds a welcome dose of pattern underfoot.

"Even compact gardens and roof terraces can be transformed with carefully chosen details that elevate both form and function," says Eloise Pfeiffer. She recommends using, "adaptable, lightweight pieces that can be easily rearranged [to] allow the layout to evolve depending on the size and style of your gathering."

Top tip: Folding furniture – such as this Grey 2 Seater Rattan Garden Outdoor Bistro Set from B&Q – is a particularly smart choice for compact spaces, as it can be packed away entirely when not in use, or reconfigured to suit a different number of guests.

6. Add a glass balustrade to enjoy the view

Positioned high above Bath's rooftops, this terrace makes the most of its elevated setting with a frameless glass balustrade that keeps the panoramic view of the city and surrounding hills completely uninterrupted.

A generous corner sofa and sunken fire pit create a sociable spot to while away an evening, with the glass edge doing all the work of keeping the space feeling open rather than boxed in.

Glass balustrades are a popular choice for exactly this reason, though it's worth factoring in the cost of specifying toughened, structurally-rated glass, as well as a maintenance routine to keep it looking pristine – smears and watermarks show up far more readily on glass than on a solid or slatted alternative.

7. Choose frosted glass for privacy

Where a clear glass balustrade opens the view right up, frosted glass takes a different approach, offering patio privacy from neighbouring rooftops and windows while still letting plenty of light flood the terrace.

On this sunny rooftop, the pale, frosted panels blend with the white render and light timber decking, keeping the overall look soft and cohesive rather than adding a hard visual barrier.

8. Add plenty of greenery

Rooftop settings have a habit of feeling exposed and overlooked, but this London terrace shows how effectively planting can be to soften that. Statement olive trees in oversized stone planters line the boundary, joined by a tall hedge and a mix of shrubs, creating a layered green backdrop that stands in for a garden the terrace doesn't have room for.

"Layered planting in lightweight containers softens the hard architecture and helps create privacy," explains Nick Woodhouse. Lightweight containers are particularly important here, as soil-filled pots can quickly add weight. It's always worth checking load capacity before committing to a large planting scheme.

9. Keep it covered

A rooftop terrace doesn't have to mean fully exposed to the elements. This covered spot uses a slatted timber canopy and sturdy steel posts to create a shaded outdoor dining area that can be enjoyed regardless of the weather.

A pergola, a shade sail or cover like this is also worth considering if your terrace gets a lot of direct sun, offering shade during the day and helping protect furniture and soft furnishings from weathering over time.

10. Make the transition seamless with sliding doors

Sliding glass doors are doing the heavy lifting on this coastal roof terrace, opening the living space directly onto the decking and blurring the boundary between indoors and out

Achieving a seamless look like this relies on the groundwork being right, from the door threshold sitting flush with the terrace to careful detailing to keep water from tracking indoors – so it's worth bringing in an architect or structural engineer early if this is the effect you're after.

"It's essential to consider the practicalities of a roof terrace from the outset," agrees Nick Woodhouse. "Ensure the structure can support intended loads, incorporate effective drainage so water can move freely, and choose balustrades that provide safety without compromising the views."

11. Think about how you'll access the roof terrace

How you get up to your roof terrace can shape the whole design as much as what you put on it. This first example uses a hinged roof window doubling as the access point to a coastal roof terrace, fitted with an integrated ladder or fold-down step. This type of opening is a popular choice where space is tight, though it's worth checking the practicalities – how easily it opens, how it copes with rain, and whether it's manageable for everyone in the household – before committing to this route.

By contrast, the loft conversion balcony (pictured second) takes a more generous approach, with a full-width flight of stairs leading up from the house and opening directly onto the space. You could just as easily take a similar approach from the outside, with access via an external staircase.

12. Consider how it looks from afar

A roof terrace doesn't exist in isolation, it becomes part of your home's silhouette, visible from the garden, the street and every window that looks back at it. This flat-roof extension shows how effective a considered exterior treatment can be: dark, wood-effect composite external cladding wraps both the extension below and the terrace balustrade above, tying the two levels together into a single, confident architectural statement.

The glazed balustrade section is a smart move too, keeping sightlines open to the garden below without breaking up the dark cladding entirely, while planting softens the transition between the terrace and the original brick facade above.

This design proves that a roof terrace can enhance a home's exterior as much as its interior life, so it's worth thinking as much about how yours will look from the garden as how it will feel to sit in.

If a full roof terrace isn't feasible, a Juliet balcony or small loft balcony can be a good alternative, offering a breath of fresh air and a sense of connection to the outdoors, without the structural demands of a larger terrace.

Deadheading hydrangeas is an easy and satisfying garden job that instantly improves their appearance.

These structural shrubs are renowned for their giant, fluffy heads of blooms. Growing hydrangeas is relatively easy, so they make fabulous garden staples, whether that's in a large border, planted in a pot, or to brighten up a shaded corner. But once those blooms pass their peak, they turn brown and withered, and the plants can quickly go from looking lovely to lackluster.

We explain how to neaten up the look of your hydrangea throughout the flowering season. But that's not the only benefit of deadheading hydrangeas – doing so will also allow the plants to grow stronger and encourage better blooms to form later on.

4 simple steps for deadheading hydrangeas

Deadheading flowers always improves the look of garden displays while allowing the plant to channel its energy into making better blooms and growing strongly.

With hydrangeas, it's super straightforward – just follow these steps:

1. Take a pair of secateurs or, for larger shrubs, garden pruners. Ensure they are sharp and clean so as not to damage the plant.
2. Locate the hydrangea flowers that have passed their best – their colour will have faded and become tinged with brown, and the petals will have shrivelled.
3. Remove the faded blooms with an inch of stem, says Christine Walkden, a gardening expert and BBC TV presenter. This is so that you do not prune out potential flower buds which are developing immediately beneath them, she adds.
4. At the same time, you can remove any weak or dead stems that are crowding the middle of the bush, says renowned gardening journalist John Negus. "Provided the remaining shoots are strong and healthy and air can pass freely between them, there is nothing else to do."

Shop these tools for your deadheading tasks

When is the best time for deadheading hydrangeas?

Whether you're growing hydrangeas in pots or in the ground, you can deadhead them throughout the flowering season. Start deadheading as soon as the first flowers fade, then continue as and when your shrub needs a tidy-up.

In colder regions, some gardeners choose to skip deadheading mophead varieties of hydrangeas entirely. Leaving flowers on over winter helps protect the plants from frost, as it shelters the buds.

Lacecap varieties are hardier, so there is less risk in deadheading them freely in colder areas. But, whatever your approach and variety of plants, it's generally wise to stop deadheading hydrangeas in early autumn.

What's more, if you prefer to leave the blooms to dry on the plant over winter it will add sculptural interest to your garden design. These can be snipped away the following spring, when you prune your hydrangeas.

If your hydrangeas haven't been looking their best this summer, make sure you get up to speed with the key reasons why your hydrangea might not be blooming.

And if you prefer the look of blue hydrangeas compared to pink varieties, our guide on how to change the colour of your hydrangea will come in useful.

Learning the basics about soil types can be one of the best ways to ensure gardening success. If you've found that your planting picks haven't thrived as you expected, despite you providing the best care, you may be choosing the wrong varieties for your soil.

Knowing what grows best in specific types of soil can also help you choose a mix of plants that suits the growing conditions of your garden, particularly if you're about to embark on a new landscaping design.

Soil can range from being either very acidic or alkaline. But, other soil characteristics will also play a part in how well your plants will grow. In this extensive guide we'll dig deep into everything you need to know about your garden soil.

How do you identify different soil types?

The first step to identifying the soil types in your garden is to identify whether it is acid or alkaline. Soil pH varies from around 3.5 (very acidic) to 8.5 (alkaline) – a reading of 7 is considered neutral and the optimum for most plants is 6.5.

"Most plants prefer a slightly acidic to neutral soil, around pH 6 to 7, while lime-loving plants such as lavender, clematis and many brassicas do better in more alkaline conditions," notes Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

"A home pH testing kit is also useful for establishing whether your soil is acidic, neutral or alkaline, which can help when choosing plants," says Peter Chaloner, managing director of Cobra.

This Garden Tutor Soil pH Test Kit from Amazon will help you establish which type of soil you have, while another easy way to tell is to ask your neighbours which plants they are growing in their gardens and work out the approximate pH based on what's performing well in nearby soils.

"Also pay attention to what happens after heavy rain, too," says Peter. "Water sitting on the surface can indicate heavy or compacted ground, while very rapid drainage may suggest sandy or free-draining soil. This is particularly important for lawns, as poor drainage isn't always down to soil type; compaction can be a major factor and can often be improved through aeration.”

Get your hands dirty to find out your soil type

“Another simple way to get an initial idea of your soil type is to take a handful of moist soil and squeeze it," adds Peter Chaloner. "Clay tends to feel sticky and holds its shape; sandy soil feels gritty and falls apart easily, while loam is usually crumbly but holds together loosely. Silty soil feels smooth and silky, while peaty soil is typically dark and spongy."

As well as looking at your soil, assessing how moist or dry it is, and how easily you can get your spade into it, you can also try the following simple test if you're still not sure. First, take a sample of soil from about 4–6in (10–15cm) below the surface – if you have a large plot, take a few samples from different areas. If it is not already damp, add a little water so that it's moist but not wet. Then, feel the texture with your fingers before trying to roll it into a ball.

A soil rich in clay will feel smooth and sticky and have a surface sheen like plasticine if you rub it. When rolled into a ball, clay will keep its shape well, and it can be moulded to form a long ribbon. It will also retain a fingerprint mark when you press your thumb onto it.

Sandy soil feels gritty, and when you try to roll it into a ball, it will fall apart. Silty soils have a smooth, soapy texture and will make a loose ball shape but will easily fall apart and cannot be moulded into a ribbon like clay.

A peaty soil feels spongy and won't roll into a ball – drops of water may also come out when you squeeze it. Depending on its exact make-up, you may be able to roll loam into a ball and even a ribbon shape if it's a clay loam, but it will not leave a fingerprint mark when pressed.

If you suspect your soil is chalky, check for the tell-tale signs of white chalk and stony flint in it. You can also add some soil to a jar of vinegar, and if it froths, then you know it contains chalk or limestone and will be very alkaline.

6 main types of soil

While all soils fulfil a similar function, there are many different types, and knowing which one you have in your garden will help you to choose plants adapted to thrive in your specific conditions.

Clay and sandy soils are the most common types; silty soils are less prevalent and are generally found on flood basins near rivers or where rivers have previously existed; and peaty and chalky soils are rare in gardens and exist in just a few areas of the country (at least, in the UK).

Although there is no 'good' or 'bad' soil, since there are plants adapted to each type, some can be more challenging to cultivate and may not support as many garden plants species.

1. Clay soil

These soils are made up of a large proportion of microscopic clay particles, which can become compacted, binding together tightly to form large, solid, airless clumps.

They are known as 'heavy' soils, not because they weigh more than others, but because they are difficult to dig – if you have clay, you may not be able to get even your garden spade into it in the summer.

Getting the most from clay soil

Improve the drainage by digging in as much horticultural grit, sharp sand, or even fine gravel dredged from freshwater sources as you can muster.

"Clay soil holds water and nutrients well but can become compacted and waterlogged," adds Peter Chaloner, "so regular aeration can help improve drainage and encourage stronger root growth."

Make sure you also choose the best plants for clay soil when you visit the garden centre to ensure success.

"Clay suits roses, hydrangeas, euphorbias and forsythia, plus crops such as brassicas and beans if it has been improved with compost," advises Julian Palphramand.

2. Sandy soil

Sand particles are much larger than clay, and they also have bigger spaces between them that allow water to drain through easily.

"As a result, sandy soil drains quickly and warms up early, but loses moisture and nutrients more readily, meaning lawns may need more attention to watering and feeding, particularly during dry weather," says Peter Chaolner.

Often referred to as 'light' because they are easy to dig, sandy soils also warm up quickly in spring, allowing seeds to germinate and plant growth to begin sooner than in other soils.

Getting the most from it

To give plants the best start, pour compost into each planting hole to the depth of the head of a spade.

Weeds must be kept tightly under control. For minimal maintenance, cover the earth with a weed-proof, semi-permeable membrane, securing it with stakes, then cut slits to plant through. Once planted, cover the membrane in around an inch (3cm) depth of gravel.

Expert tips

As these soils are dry and warm in early spring, they can be ideal for sowing early vegetable crops. The drier conditions, especially in winter, also suit plants such as lavender, rock roses, and olive trees – perfect picks if you're looking for Mediterranean garden ideas.

Perfect plants

"Sandy soil is good for lavender, rosemary, buddleia and root vegetables such as carrots and parsnips," notes Julian Palphramand.

Kniphofia is an exotic choice ideal for coastal gardens. Echinacea purpurea 'Doubledecker' is also a good choice, especially if you're looking for bee-friendly plants for an eco-friendly garden.

Other top picks include achillea, agapanthus, amelanchier, spring bulbs, delphinium, dianthus, fuchsia, geranium, bay, poppy, ornamental grasses, sedum, and thyme.

3. Silty soil

Silt particles are smaller than sand but larger than clay. The gaps between them allow good airflow and drainage while still retaining some water and nutrients.

Getting the most from it

Silty soils suit a wide range of plants, including any that like moist, free-draining conditions. "Silty soil is generally fertile and moisture-retentive but can be prone to compaction, making aeration beneficial," advises Peter Chaloner. Avoid walking on it while wet where possible.

Expert tips

Silt soils are prone to washing or blowing away in the rain or wind. As the RHS suggests, you can add organic matter to this type of soil to make the silt particles more stable. How about giving worm composting a go if you haven't already?

Perfect plants

Julian Palphramand tells us that, "silty soil suits a wide range of plants including hellebores, ferns and alliums, and it is excellent for most vegetables – if it does not become waterlogged."

You can also try aster (including symphyotrichum), birch, dogwood, delphinium, lupin, phlox, rose, rudbeckia, leucanthemum, sweet box, viburnum, willow, and hellebores.

4. Chalky soil

If you have chalk, you will see lumps of the soft white stone, as well as hard pieces of flint. "Chalky soil is free-draining and alkaline, so lawns can be more susceptible to nutrient deficiencies and drying out," says Peter Chaloner.

Many chalky soils are shallow, lying over a layer of chalk or limestone. They are also alkaline, free-draining and relatively infertile. If they also contain a good proportion of clay, they can be water-retentive and contain more nutrients.

Getting the most from it

"As chalky soil is often thin, it suits lavender, clematis, peonies and brassicas, as well as beetroot and spinach with regular feeding," explains Julian Palphramand.

Where you have a thin layer of soil over chalk bedrock, try learning how to plant a wildflower meadow that will thrive in these conditions. Or, try planting small species with shallow root balls.

When planting on chalk, also break up the ground to a depth of 2.5ft (75cm) to allow plants' roots to spread. Honeysuckle, euonymus, and verbascum will all love alkaline conditions.

5. Peaty soil

Rarely found in gardens in the UK, peaty soils are made up of organic matter, such as decomposed plants. Peat is dark in colour, low in nutrients, and water-retentive – it holds on to moisture like a sponge. "It is also often acidic and can encourage moss where conditions remain wet," notes Peter Chaloner.

Perfect plants

"Peaty soil is is best for acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons, camellias, blueberries and heathers, while vegetables such as potatoes and leafy crops can do well if drainage is managed," says Julian Palphramand.

Pieris, blue-flowered hydrangea, heathers, and witch hazel will also all thrive in peaty soils. You can learn more about growing hydrangeas in our guide, but, don't try to grow plants that prefer alkaline conditions such as clematis and lavender.

6. Loams

"Loam is the most balanced soil type, combining sand, silt and clay, and it is ideal for almost everything," notes Julian Palphramand, including tomatoes, carrots, foxgloves and wisteria, as well as most vegetables."

Water-retentive, free-draining, and fertile, it contains roughly equal proportions of sand and silt, together with enough clay to hold moisture and nutrients. As a result, it offers gardeners – and plants – the best of all worlds.

"It is also particularly well suited to healthy grass growth," notes Peter Chaloner which is good of you are planning on large areas of lawn in your garden.

When improving a soil, it is a loam-like consistency that you are aiming to achieve. Sandy loams have freer drainage, while clay loams hold more water, but all types are suitable for many different plant species.

Expert tips

You can make a heavy clay or light sandy soil more loam-like by mulching – see below for more info on how to improve soil.

Perfect plants

Only those that are adapted to very free-draining conditions (such as drought-loving Mediterranean herbs) or bog plants that love lots of moisture (such as candelabra primulas and Siberian flag irises) will turn up their noses to loam. The list of suitable plants is therefore almost endless, and most vegetable crops will also thrive in loam.

Understanding how to deal with sun and shade

“The orientation of your garden can have almost as much impact as the soil itself because sunlight, shade and wind all affect how quickly the ground loses moisture," says Peter Chaloner.

It means that regardless of soil type, you may also need to take extra measures to get the most out of your garden.

How do you deal with hot and sunny soil?

These will be areas like a south-facing bed or border that get the full heat of the sun all year round. Not all plants will survive such conditions, but plants for full sun, such as exotic choices will thrive.

"For hot, sunny soil, the key is to help it hold on to moisture and stop it drying out too quickly," advises Julian Palphramand. "Water early in the day, add a good layer of mulch, and work in plenty of compost or well-rotted organic matter to improve moisture retention."

"During prolonged hot, dry periods, lawns can also benefit from a higher mowing height," adds Peter Chaloner, "as longer grass helps shade the soil and reduces stress on the plant."

Getting the most from it

Having a drip irrigation system, such as this 315 Piece Drip Irrigation Kit from B&Q, or laying a hose with small holes punched along its length through the bed, to drench the soil in the evening when needed can help during particularly hot spells. Mulch the soil with well-rotted manure in autumn and spring with coarse compost or leaf mould to help with moisture retention.

Exotic plants which love the hot sun will need more protection from the winter frosts. The crowns of tree ferns and banana plants must be wrapped in horticultural fleece or hessian.

Top tips

Sunny plots are ideal for many herbaceous favourites – roses, bergamot, and tobacco plants, for example. They are also perfect for hot-coloured tender exotics such as cannas and ginger lilies, but grow them in large plastic pots that, come spring, are submerged in beds, but can be lifted in autumn and overwintered in a greenhouse to avoid frosts.

Perfect plants

Cannas give an exotic feel. Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop' is a beautiful succulent. Dahlias will also work well in a hot border. "Crops such as tomatoes, courgettes and beans can also do well if they are watered regularly," adds Julian.

How do you deal with shady and dry soil beneath trees?

"For shady, dry soil, the main problem is often competition for water from tree roots or nearby walls," explains Julian Palphramand. "Improving the soil with organic matter and mulching well will help conserve moisture, but plant choice matters just as much."

Getting the most from it

Before planting, dig a deep hole part-filled with compost, and thoroughly soak the plant's rootball. Water new plants weekly until they establish. Dig in organic matter to increase the moisture retention of the soil, mulching heavily with a thick layer of bark chippings in spring.

In spring and during hot spells, thoroughly soak the ground once every 10 days – this encourages deep root penetration, whereas watering little and often develops weak, shallow-rooted plants.

Expert tips

Under deciduous trees, plant spring-flowering bulbs such as cyclamen, anemones, snowdrops, and narcissi. Create a ground cover of foliage to retain moisture. If planting in terracotta pots, line them with plastic to retain moisture in hot spells, adding moisture-retentive gel granules to the compost.

Perfect plants

"Go for species that are happy in dry shade, such as hellebores, epimediums, vinca, heucheras, geranium macrorrhizum and ferns, rather than trying to force moisture-loving plants to cope," advises Julian.

And, if your lawn is shaded, "this can present different challenges, with weaker grass growth and damp conditions potentially encouraging moss," says Peter Chaloner, "so avoid mowing too closely and consider aerating compacted areas.”

FAQs

How can you improve your garden soil?

The best advice for any gardener is to choose plants adapted to your site and soil conditions. But we all want what we can't have, so if you have your heart set on a plant that likes good drainage but you have heavy clay, or a rose that prefers rich soil and you have dry, infertile sand, you can improve your soil to widen your choices.

"Whatever type of soil you have, the best first step is to add plenty of well-rotted organic matter, such as compost or manure, because this improves structure, boosts nutrients and helps soil hold the right amount of moisture," says Julian Palphramand.

"In clay soil, organic matter helps break up compaction and improve drainage; in sandy soil, it helps the soil retain more water and nutrients; and in silty soil, it can reduce the risk of waterlogging."

Peaty soil also benefits from careful watering and mulching to keep moisture levels steady. Loam is already the most balanced soil type, but even that will benefit from a regular mulch to keep it fertile and healthy.

Covering clay soils also prevents them from forming solid crusts in summer. Humus also coats sandy particles, but in this instance, it acts like a water magnet, allowing them to hold on to moisture for long enough for plants to take it up through their roots.

Apply an organic mulch to clay soils in winter, and to dry sandy soils as part of your spring garden jobs, to prevent winter rains washing it away. Leave a gap around the woody stems of shrubs and trees so that the moist mulch will not rot your plants.

A mulch laid on the soil surface will be taken down and incorporated into the lower depths by worms and other creatures. Here, the organic matter not only improves the structure of the soil, but it also continues to decompose, releasing plant nutrients slowly throughout the growing season.

Another top tip is to protect your soil, particularly those rich in clay or silt, from compaction by never walking across it when it's wet. After rain, put down wooden boards for walking on, which will help to spread your weight if you need to tend your beds while the soil is still damp.

How do I know which vegetables will grow in my soil?

Want to grow your own crops for a delicious harvest next season? As our experts have advised, different veggies suit different types of soil, so here's a quick reminder on what to plant if you're starting a vegetable garden:

• Clay soils suit lettuce, chard, green beans, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cabbage
• Sandy soils are good for onions, most herbs, tomatoes, and root vegetables, including carrots, parsnips, potatoes, and radishes
• For silty soils, try broccoli, cabbage, courgette, green beans, kale, lettuce, onion, potatoes, pumpkin, tomatoes, and sweetcorn
• Chalky soils are well suited to radishes, Swiss chard, and sweetcorn
• Finally, if you have peaty soil (but it's not too wet), try potatoes, celery, onions, carrots, and lettuce

Once you've established your soil type, you can then start to think about the design of your garden. Find inspiration in our round-up of cottage garden ideas, or for something that's a little easier to look after, take a look at these low-maintenance garden ideas instead.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

If your lavender plant isn't flowering, don't give up on growing it just yet. These herbaceous perennials are a joy in the garden and it's actually quite easy to learn how to grow lavender and enjoy your plant for many years to come.

Like all plants though, lavender requires you to understand where it comes from and what it needs to thrive in order for it to reach full bloom.

Thankfully, the reasons why it's failing aren't too difficult to fix and in general, experts say it comes down to three things – all of which you can easily resolve.

1. You're not pruning it enough

This is nearly always the number one reason why a lavender plant isn't flowering.

"Unpruned plants become leggy and woody and lose flowers," confirms Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. "Many people cut into the woody part and kill the entire stem, but you need to cut above the new growth.

"Trim lightly right after flowering, removing about a third of the growth above the soft green shoots, never into old wood," he advises.

Pruning lavender is very easy, and according to Monty Don, should be done as soon as the flowers start to fade. Avoid leaving them to go brown in order to allow more time for regrowth before winter.

Gardening tools to help you care for your lavender

2. You have the wrong soil type

Lavender has quite specific soil requirements – alkaline, infertile, and free-draining. In other words, if you have chalky, thin soil, it's perfect for lavender. The mistake people often make is adding organic matter or synthetic fertiliser to the soil where they grow their lavender.

"Lavender won’t flower in rich or wet soil," explains Julian Palphramand. "The lavender doesn't need it, so won't produce flowers. Or, if it does, the flowers will be sickly and not fragrant.

"Heavy, clay ground needs grit," he continues, "or use a container with a free-draining mix."

"I always mix in plenty of horticultural grit to multipurpose peat-free compost when growing lavender in pots," says Beth Murton, editor of Homebuilding & Renovating. "It helps to improve the drainage and prevents the soil from becoming waterlogged. I've found the easiest way to get the right balance of compost and grit is to mix the soil with the grit (around 25 per cent in terms of volume) in a wheelbarrow before filling my garden planter with it."

This Melcourt RHS potting grit from Crocus can be used to improve drainage for lavender and also works well for other plants such as alpines, succulents and cacti.

3. Your lavender is in the wrong spot in the garden

Where you plant your lavender is also integral to the success of it flowering.

"Lavender handles heat well; in a heatwave, the real danger is overwatering, not drought," says Julian Palphramand. "Think Mediterranean: full sun, excellent drainage, and only water when the soil is truly dry."

Lavender needs at least six hours a day of sunlight to produce its fragrant blooms, so the rules are simple, he continues. "Don’t plant it under trees or in shade, as it will not flower. It needs a spot that really gets baked with sunshine throughout the day with good airflow – but not too windy."

It often works best as part of Mediterranean garden ideas that typically include some kind of an enclosure. Plant it in a sunny, sheltered spot, preferably against a sunny wall or in a garden border that gets constant sunshine throughout the day.

Julian Palphramand's final advice? Check the age and type of lavender you are currently growing, or thinking of planting.

"Young plants may not bloom until their second or third year, and some varieties are simply too fussy for cooler, wetter UK areas," he says.

Thinking of using lavender to help zone your garden? Find out what there is to know about using lavender for hedges, or consider how to make it a key feature in your cottage garden ideas.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

What if we told you that you didn't need to spend your precious Saturdays mowing the lawn, or remember to water the plants every few days? What if someone – or something – could do it all for you?

If you like the sound of a low-maintenance garden, where everything is magically taken care of, then you'll want to consider some of the smart devices below.

From robotic lawn mowers to soil moisture sensors, we've rounded up the cleverest garden upgrades that are well worth the investment – and how you can include them in your outdoor space.

1. Smart irrigation systems

We all know how unpredictable the UK weather can be, which can sometimes make it tricky to establish an efficient watering routine. That's where smart garden irrigation systems come in handy – they water your plants according to the conditions, rather than a generic schedule, ensuring they get exactly what they need.

"This not only reduces water waste but also encourages healthier root development by preventing both overwatering and drought stress," says Martin Chaplin, head of horticulture at Hedges Direct.

“They're especially beneficial for newly planted hedging, trees and shrubs, which rely on consistent moisture while establishing. Plants such as Portuguese Laurel, Cherry Laurel, Photinia and Beech hedging all benefit from regular watering in their first growing season, and smart irrigation takes much of the guesswork out of keeping them healthy.”

Before you set your irrigation system up however, make sure you know the best time to water plants so you don't waste water, or create problems with plant health.

2. Smart lighting

Whether it's for home security or aesthetics, good lighting design is essential in every garden – and smart bulbs make it even easier by allowing you to schedule when they turn on and off using your phone or voice.

In the same way that smart lighting systems work inside your home, "smart plugs can connect outdoor lights to devices via Wi‑Fi or Bluetooth, giving you control over when they are switched on and off, or allowing you to switch up the mood without getting up to do it manually," says Jon Saeed, managing director of Lighting Legends.

To make the most of your garden lighting ideas, ensure you understand the best landscape lighting techniques so that your smart lighting doesn't just save you time, but illuminates your garden in the best way possible.

Shop smart outdoor lighting

3. Robot lawn mowers

Mowing the lawn isn't the most exciting job in the world, which is why more and more people are switching to robotic mowers. These clever devices cut your grass for you, leaving you with more time to enjoy your space.

We've tested a number of them here at Homebuilding & Renovating and they're usually met with approval, making them one of the items most of us would consider a must-have in a smart garden.

“For many households, robotic lawn mowers are a worthwhile investment because they maintain the lawn little and often, encouraging denser, healthier grass without the need for weekly mowing," says Martin Chaplin.

"The fine grass clippings are also left behind to naturally break down, returning nutrients to the soil and reducing the need for additional feeding."

While robotic mowers can be incredibly handy, Martin notes that they "work best in relatively simple gardens with clearly defined lawn areas".

4. Smart soil sensors

Often used alongside a smart irrigation system, or drip irrigation system, soil sensors let you know whether the ground is becoming too dry or is moist enough. They're a particularly good investment for valuable plants, giving you reassurance that they're not under stress.

“Many gardeners are surprised to learn that plants are often overwatered rather than underwatered, particularly in containers or after periods of rainfall," notes Martin Chaplin.

Using soil sensors can therefore help you take some of the guesswork out of understanding why your plants aren't thriving, helping you to establish if you have problems such as box blight, or if it's simply a case of too much or too little water.

5. Motorised shading

Every garden design needs a shaded area, but sometimes the hassle of winding a clunky parasol up and down is too much effort. The solution? A motorised patio umbrella or awning, like this one from Amazon.

"Motorised patio umbrellas allow you to effortlessly provide shade in your garden during heatwaves," says Jon Saeed. "Instead of struggling to wind them up and down, you can simply press a button to do it automatically – a far more hassle free solution."

Not only are they easier to use than manual parasols, but they also give you more flexibility in how long you keep them open. Other options include pergolas with roofs that can be opened and closed using power – rather than by hand.

Or, if you're happy to open and close by hand, but are looking to upgrade your decking ideas with a piece of smart garden furniture that performs multiple roles, this Kettler 3.3m Free Arm with Dual Tilt - Grey Frame / Grey Taupe Canopy from Robert Dyas, currently reduced by £143, offers shade, music and lighting in one.

“Ultimately, smart gardening technology isn't about replacing the gardener, it's about making routine maintenance easier," concludes Martin Chaplin. "By combining smart watering, soil monitoring and automated mowing, homeowners can spend less time on repetitive tasks and more time enjoying their garden."

For more ideas on making your garden functional, check out our guide to creating a garden design that works year round, and while smart garden lighting may save you time, make sure you understand the laws on garden lighting before you start scheduling it.

There’s a particular kind of smugness that comes with having a pool house. Not just having a swimming pool – anyone with a big enough garden and a bigger budget can manage that – but somewhere to towel off, mix a drink, and pretend for a moment that you live somewhere a bit more tropical than the UK. Though, with summers creeping hotter each year, that gap is starting to close, and a pool house is fast becoming less of a fantasy and more of a useful addition to the home.

When done well, pool house ideas can turn a swimming pool from a novelty you use for six weeks a year into something you'll get proper use out of, whatever the weather is doing. But building a pool house is slightly more demanding than it looks. It needs to cope with water, humidity and heavy footfall in a way a garden room never will, and getting the ventilation, services and layout wrong is a far costlier mistake to fix.

Whether you're picturing a simple changing room or a fully kitted out wellness retreat with a sauna and a bar, here's everything you need to think through before you start your build.

Will the pool be covered or open-air?

Whether your swimming pool is open-air or under cover changes the relationship between it and the pool house, and, if your pool doesn't already exist, it's worth deciding early on which one you will build, since it affects layout, humidity and how the two buildings connect.

With an open-air pool, the pool house stays a straightforward support space; changing, storage, somewhere to sit with a drink, with humidity limited to what wet swimmers and towels bring in through the door.

A covered or indoor pool changes that considerably. Even with the water sitting in its own enclosure next door, a pool house serving it will see far higher footfall from damp swimmers moving between the two spaces. Because of this, a covered walkway or close physical connection between the buildings becomes worth considering, both for convenience, and to stop humidity travelling further than it needs to. Expect ventilation to play a bigger role when your pool is indoors, and budget for it accordingly.

Selecting a location for a pool house

Where you put a pool house matters almost as much as how you build it, and it's worth settling on the best place before a single spade goes in the ground. The pool itself is the obvious anchor, but orientation deserves equal billing.

Sophie Chapman, associate and interior designer at The Vawdrey House, puts it plainly.

"Consider how the location and orientation of the building relate to the house, neighbouring properties and the sun's path, as these decisions will have a lasting impact on how successful the space feels."

On her recent Sussex Pool House project (pictured above) that meant mapping sun paths with 3D models before deciding on the roof overhang and glazing, so the space stayed cool in summer rather than turning into a greenhouse.

A pool house's distance from the main house is its own trade-off. Close by and you've got easy access to power, water, and a quick dash back for a forgotten towel. Further away and you get more privacy and a proper sense of escape, at the cost of longer utility runs and a less convenient changing routine.

Boundary distance is worth checking early too, since it shapes both your layout and whether you need planning permission.

Finally, wind and tree cover are easy to forget until they're a problem – a pool house that catches the worst of the wind will lose heat fast and make outdoor swimming a harder sell on cooler days, while a pool under overhanging branches can become a full-time leaf-skimming job.

Planning permission and building regulations

These are two separate approvals, and it's worth understanding the difference before you start rather than assuming one covers the other:.

Planning permission

Most pool houses fall under permitted development, meaning you won't need to apply for planning permission at all, provided the building meets certain size, height and positioning rules.

"The vast majority of our garden rooms used as pool houses can be installed under permitted development, meaning planning permission is not usually required," confirms Makenzie Polden, marketing executive at Green Retreats.

That said, consent becomes necessary, "if a customer wants to exceed permitted development limits with a larger building, or if the property is located in a conservation area, is listed or has other planning restrictions," she adds.

Sophie Chapman echoes this from the architectural side, warning that listed buildings and sensitive sites bring extra layers of approval. "Alongside planning permission, listed building consent may also be needed, and there are often wider factors to assess, including the impact on the site's heritage, landscape and ecology. Depending on the location, additional surveys, such as ecological or archaeological assessments, may also be required." Her advice is to bring in a planning consultant early if your site falls into this category, since they can flag constraints before they become costly redesigns.

These rules vary by local authority and by what's already been built on a plot, since previous extensions or alterations to the property can affect what you're allowed to build next, so it's worth checking with your council before committing to a design.

Building regulations

Building regulations are a separate matter to planning permission and are assessed independently, so you might need approval for one, both or neither.

Many pool houses actually turn out to be exempt from full building control, since small detached buildings under 30m² with no sleeping accommodation are generally exempt, provided they sit at least a metre from the boundary or are built from non-combustible materials. Go over that size and full approval kicks in, covering structural safety and, for larger builds, fire safety and accessibility too.

Buying and building a pool house

There are two broad routes into a pool house, and which one suits you depends on how much control you want over the finished result, how much budget you have, and how much time you're willing to spend getting there.

Modular pool houses

A modular pool house (often adapted from a standard garden room) arrives largely pre-manufactured and can be installed on site within days once the foundations are down.

You're choosing from a defined range rather than a blank page however, so it's worth checking exactly what's included before comparing prices. Makenzie Polden notes that finish matters as much as spec here. "Customers also tend to get far more use from their pool house when it's fully finished and furnished from day one," she adds, "rather than leaving it as a basic shell to complete over time."

Bespoke pool houses

A bespoke build takes longer and costs more, but gives you a pool house designed around your specific site and equipment rather than a standard footprint.

George Lucas, marketing manager at Vale Garden Houses, advises thinking beyond the obvious from the outset. "Build in every facility you think you may need. After all, it could be a long way back to the house to grab a drink or a few extra ice cubes," he warns – a reminder that a pool house needs to work as its own self-contained space, not one where you'll need to keep nipping back to the house to make it functional

Either route can deliver something you'll use year-round. The real question is whether you'd rather choose wisely from what's on offer, or build to your own exact spec.

The best materials for a pool house

Timber frame construction is the default for most pool houses, as it's quick to build, easy to insulate well, and forgiving if you need to add doors or glazing later. Brick and block give you a more permanent, house-like structure with better sound and thermal mass, at the cost of a longer build and a bigger budget. Structural insulated panels (SIPs) sit somewhere between the two, offering strong thermal performance with a faster install than traditional brick or block.

Exterior cladding is where a pool house can do a lot of the aesthetic heavy lifting, and it's worth choosing something that can cope with a damp environment without constant upkeep.

Sophie Chapman recommends using, "larch timber cladding and overhang [to] keep direct sunlight off glazed doors," – a detail that's as functional as it is good-looking, since the overhang reduces glare and heat gain as well as protecting the cladding itself from weathering.

Whatever materials you land on, check what's actually included before comparing quotes across suppliers. Makenzie Polden warns that, "what initially looks like a cheaper option can quickly become more expensive once essential upgrades are added."

Insulation, glazing spec and finish all vary hugely between providers, and a lower headline price can mean paying twice once you add back what was missing.

Utilities and services

Getting power to a pool house

Power usually runs from the main house via armoured cable, either buried underground or clipped along a fence line, into its own dedicated consumer unit rather than an extension of an existing circuit. This falls under Part P of the Building Regulations, so the work must be carried out or signed off by a qualified, registered electrician, whatever else you take on yourself.

What you're powering will shape the spec considerably. A pool house with just lighting and a socket or two is a modest job, but add a pool pump, sauna, hot tub or gym equipment, and both the load and the running cost climb fast.

Modular garden rooms typically build the electrics in as standard. As Makenzie Polden puts it: "A quality garden room should come fully insulated, with electrics, quality glazing and everything needed to create a space that's ready to use from day one."

A bespoke build takes more planning, but lets you size the supply around your actual equipment from the outset. It's also worth knowing what's possible beyond a standard mains connection, an approach Sophie Chapman has seen work well on her own projects.

Photovoltaic panels, a ground source heat pump and battery storage can work together to push a pool house towards off-grid running.

Managing humidity and condensation

"For an indoor or covered pool, we would always specify a dedicated pool dehumidification system," says Sophie Chapman. "This needs to be considered early in the design so that it works properly with the heating, ventilation and layout of the building."

The pool itself should sit within its own enclosed, controlled environment, with the surrounding facilities, WC, shower, bar, storage, planned to stay dry. Getting the zoning and airflow right between the wet pool area and the drier adjoining spaces is, in her words, essential to the relationship between the two.

Heating a pool house

Treat the swimming pool and the building as separate heating jobs. Pool water is typically heated by a heat pump, or less commonly now a gas boiler, sized to pool volume and how many months of the year you want to swim.

A cover, left on whenever the pool isn't in use, can also cut heat loss from the water significantly and is one of the cheapest ways to bring swimming pool costs down.

The pool house itself needs its own heating system entirely, and this is where the specification actually matters. Underfloor heating is the popular choice here specifically because it copes with wet feet and tiled floors better than radiators do, and it frees up wall space in a room that's often tight on it already.

An air source heat pump is generally the cheapest system to run day to day, though it heats more slowly than a direct electric option – worth factoring in if you want the space warm at short notice rather than a couple of hours ahead.

Whatever you choose, sizing the system to the building's insulation standard matters more than the system itself, a well-insulated pool house needs meaningfully less heating capacity, and a smaller ongoing bill, than one that's cutting corners elsewhere.

Lighting for a pool house

Sophie Chapman treats lighting as a whole-setting decision, not something confined to the pool itself.

"Lighting should be considered across the whole setting, rather than treating the pool on its own," she explains. "This includes the pool house, exterior of the building, surrounding landscaping, pathways and the transitions between each area."

Around water specifically, fittings need the correct IP rating for their location, while a layered scheme, combining practical and ambient sources rather than one light doing everything, tends to work best, kept warm in tone and free of glare or abrupt changes.

Along pathways and entrances, PIR sensors are worth considering too, lighting the space exactly when it's needed rather than being left on all evening.

Interiors and finishing touches

Pool house interiors need to work a little harder than your average garden room, contending with wet feet and chlorine in the air. And Makenzie Polden makes the case for finishing properly from the start as it will be instantly useable and designed in the right way to prevent any damage to unfinished surfaces.

Flooring is the decision to get right first, with slip-resistant floor tiles typically beating anything soft underfoot. Furniture-wise, think marine-grade over Instagram-pretty, since outdoor fabrics will outlast anything living-room-soft.

You should build in proper outdoor storage too, as towels, robes, pool toys and the cleaning kit will all need a home.

Beyond the practical calls, interiors are where the space gets to have a bit of personality, whether that's a full spa-style retreat with a garden sauna and changing area, or something simpler that just makes the most of being steps from the water.

FAQs

How much does it cost to build a pool house?

Costs vary hugely depending on the specification. At the lower end, a basic timber structure can start from around £5,000, though this typically won't include much beyond four walls and a roof.

For something more permanent and higher quality, with proper insulation, heating and finishes, prices from established manufacturers start from around £40,000, with bespoke architectural projects likely to sit well above that depending on scope.

As a rough rule, the more infrastructure you build in, heating, ventilation, electrics, plumbing, the more you'll spend upfront, but the more use you'll get out of the space year round.

How long does it take to build a pool house?

This depends heavily on the route you take. Makenzie Polden says the company's typical lead time, from ordering to installation is around twelve weeks, with the modular garden room itself usually installed in one to four days once it arrives on site.

However, George Lucas puts a bespoke project without planning complications at around three months from first conversation to completion, rising if planning permission is needed, since he says that alone, can take around three months until a decision is made.

For a fully bespoke, architect-led pool house, Sophie Chapman says, "allowing around a year from the initial design conversations through to completion is a realistic expectation," particularly where listed building consent or a sensitive site is involved.

Browse our favourite swimming pool ideas for design inspiration, and read up on common swimming pool mistakes before you break ground, since small early decisions can save serious money later.

There’s a reason why clover is trending at the moment – this low-maintenance lawn alternative requires less mowing, is drought-friendly, and doesn’t attract as many weeds or pests.

Not only is it easier to care for, but it's also safe for pets and helps attract pollinators to your outdoor space, making it a great way to create a more eco-friendly garden.

It sounds like a dream on paper, but what do gardening experts really think about clover as a lawn? And should you really swap your grass for it? I asked two experts to hear their thoughts.

Can I replace my lawn with clover?

Yes, you can absolutely replace a grass lawn with clover – but preparation is key.

"If you're replacing an existing lawn completely, removing or significantly weakening the old grass first will give the clover a much better chance to establish evenly," recommends Martin Chaplin, Head of Horticulture at Hedges Direct.

However, you don't need to kill your grass to introduce clover. Martin says that mixed lawns are becoming increasingly popular, "combining the durability of grass with the environmental benefits and drought resilience of clover.”

What are the pros and cons of a clover lawn?

Before you decide to replace your grass with clover, there are some pros and cons to consider, according to Martin Chaplin and Guy Barter, Chief Horticulturist at RHS.

Pros:

• It requires less fertiliser to stay green because it naturally fixes nitrogen from the air
• It is easy to maintain – you'll only need to mow the lawn every three to six weeks
• It's drought-tolerant, making it the perfect choice for dry summer weather
• It provides a food source for bees and other pollinators

Cons:

• Clover will flower if you don't mow it regularly, which isn't ideal for those seeking a manicured garden
• It isn't as sturdy as grass for heavy foot traffic
• It tends to be more slippery than grass

Can I just throw clover seed on my lawn?

While it's certainly possible to overseed an existing lawn with clover, there are a few caveats to keep in mind.

Martin Chaplin warns that you're not going to get the best results by simply scattering seeds over long grass. You'll need to mow the lawn short first, lightly rake the surface, and then keep the area consistently moist until you start to spot seedlings.

You'll also need to get your timing right. Guy Barter recommends planting the seeds in late April to early May when the weather is warm but the ground is still moist. You'll also need to ensure the soil isn't too acidic – it needs to be about 6.0 to 7.0, but this could take years to adjust.

Can I have a clover lawn in the UK?

Yes, the UK offers the perfect climate for a clover lawn to thrive. Guy Barter recommends microleaf white clover, which can be purchased as seeds.

"Before making the switch, think about how you use your lawn. If it's mainly for relaxing and encouraging wildlife, clover is an excellent option," concludes Martin Chaplin. "If it's used regularly by children, pets or for entertaining, a grass or mixed grass-and-clover lawn will provide a more practical balance."

For more gardening advice, read our expert-backed guide to lawn care and find out whether you should remove couch grass.

Evergreen shrubs bring us year-round presence, continuing foliage appeal, beautifully patterned leaves and colourful flowers across the year. There are evergreen shrubs for every season, too. The foliage of many is attractive in itself and varies from the large dramatic leaves of some rhododendrons to the delicate needles of heathers.

When we remember the many gold, yellow, cream and white variegated forms of evergreen shrubs, not to mention those tinted in bronze or amber or gold – well, it is easy to see how there are so many from which to choose for your garden design.

No one evergreen shrub does everything, however, so we return to one of the few universal horticultural rules: right plant, right place. Choose the plant whose features you admire, and which fits well with other plants nearby and which will thrive in the conditions where you would like it to grow. Make the right choice and these useful shrubs can become a valuable addition to your plot.

1. Boxwood (Buxus)

• Hardiness: RHS H6
• Height: 1-12ft (30cm-3.5m)
• Uses: Low hedging, formal specimens, foundation planting, containers

Boxwood is an invaluable, cold-hardy, small-leaved, dark green shrub, much used for foundation planting and to provide contrast in informal, natural-style plantings. It develops into a variety of shapes from neat, rounded balls to taller informal bushes.

Although it's generally considered to be a good shrub for low-maintenance gardens, the issue of box blight can be a problem to consider, so look for healthy new disease-resistant boxwoods.

2. Scotch heather (Calluna) 

• Hardiness: RHS H7
• Height: 10-24in (25-60cm)
• Uses: Ground cover, edging, containers, cutting, drying

An excellent shrub for small gardens, this neat summer-flowering and autumn-flowering shrub has upright stems crowded with short leaves and packed with tiny bells. In some varieties, the flowers are double and in others the buds never open but retain their colour for many weeks.

These two groups provide a very long season of colour. Many also have attractive gold or silver foliage.

Heathers need lime-free soil, and sun for most of the day. Clip back after flowering or in spring.

Top varieties to try include H. E. Beale (double pink) and Sandy (golden leaves, long lasting white buds).

3. Common camellia (Camellia)

• Hardiness: RHS H4-5
• Height: 6-8ft (1.8-2.4m)
• Uses: Containers, border specimen, wall shrub

If you're looking for a winter-flowering shrub, this evergreen is a good option. It's a prolific, slightly exotic looking evergreen shrub with glossy foliage and single, semi-double or double flowers that are a little like roses.

Blooming in the autumn, winter or spring, depending on the variety and the climate, the flowers range from 2-5in (5-12.5cm) across and may be red, shades of pink, white or creamy, and are sometimes bicoloured.

When it comes to looking after camellias, they are happiest in partial shade in lime-free conditions. They can be grown in full sun, but must never dry out. They are also happy in garden planters, but will need regular irrigation to keep them growing well.

Top types of camellias to try include Nuccio’s Pearl (double white, tinted pink; spring) and Yuletide (single, golden eyed scarlet; winter), which can be purchased on Thompson & Morgan.

4. Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei)

• Hardiness: RHS H5
• Height: 1-4ft (30cm-1.2m)
• Uses: Ground cover, edging, containers, self-clinging vine, shade gardens

These are neat, slow-growing evergreen shrubs grown mainly for their colourful variegated foliage. Some are low and spreading and make good ground cover plants, some make rounded bushes, a few climb slowly and cling to tree trunks like ivies.

The leaves are small and dark green, but the most attractive varieties have gold or white edges or splashes and many develop pink tints in winter and pink-and-orange fruits.

If variegated varieties produce a shoot that is all green, snip it off with your secateurs.

Look out for Coloratus (vine, purple winter foliage) and Emerald ‘n’ Gold) (bushy, yellow edged leaves, pink winter tints).

5. Japanese aralia (Fatsia)

• Hardiness: RHS H5
• Height: 6-10ft (1.8-3m)
• Uses: Impressive specimen, subtropical-style gardens in colder areas, containers

A bold, architectural evergreen shrub making an impressive feature even when still a young plant, the large, rich dark green leaves are up to 18in (45cm) across and impressively divided into nine lobes.

In autumn, white stems carry branched heads of globular white flower clusters and these are followed by clusters of black spring berries.

It's happy in sun or partial-shade and quickly makes a striking specimen in any container.

Top varieties include Spider’s Web (speckled foliage) and Variegata (white leaf tips).

6. Gardenia (Gardenia)

• Hardiness: RHS H1c
• Height: 2-5ft (60cm-1.5m)
• Uses: Indoor plant, patio or balcony container plant

This is the evergreen shrub that everyone wants to grow and which everyone can grow – even if you have no garden at all. It can be both an indoor plant in colder areas and a summer balcony or patio plant in warmer areas.

Its main feature is its large, usually double, white flowers set against glossy dark green foliage and, in particular, its superb summer and autumn fragrance.

Deadheading flowers when they start to turn brown is advised to improve its appearance.

Good varieties to try include Double Mint (neat, double flowers) and Kleim’s Hardy (single flowers, the most cold hardy).

7. Mountain laurel (Kalmia)

• Hardiness: RHS H6
• Height: 6-15ft (1.m-4.5m)
• Uses: Border specimens, lawn specimens

These are colourful, native evergreens that make a dramatic early summer show that almost rivals rhododendrons. The narrow glossy foliage makes the ideal background for the crowded clusters of starry flowers opening from buds that resemble twists of cake icing.

Colours range from scarlet or deep red through pink shades to white – but with any number of patterns and combinations.

Unlike the best plants for shade, mountain laurel insists on moist, lime-free soil and full sun or a little shade but may become bare at the base, in which case cut back hard in spring and irrigate and feed well.

Top varieties of this summer-flowering shrub include Minuet (white flowers banded red, dwarf) and Olympic Fire (pink flowers open from large red buds).

8. Cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus)

• Hardiness: UK H5
• Height: 6-20ft (2-6m)
• Uses: Privacy screen or hedge

A relatively fast-growing hedge plant, this strong growing, cold hardy shrub, is usually wider than tall, with narrow leathery glossy evergreen leaves. Cherry laurel is one of the best options if you're looking for a dense privacy screening plant or hedge and an attractive flowering specimen.

In spring upright spikes of creamy flowers stand up vertically from the branches like candles and are followed by red, cherry-like berries that turn black as they mature. It will grow happily in any fertile soil in sun or light shade.

Top varieties are Schipkaensis (taller, bushier and especially frost hardy) and Otto Luyken (dwarf, flowers prolifically).

9. Rhododendron

• Hardiness: RHS H4-6
• Height: 1-20ft (30cm-6m)
• Uses: Flowering specimens, border features, containers

The most colourful of all flowering evergreen shrubs, rhododendrons are tough, cold hardy shrubs featuring flared, trumpet-shaped flowers in a vast variety of colours and colour combinations, often prettily spotted. Ranging in height from a few inches to many feet, the foliage too brings us an additional all year feature.

It insists on lime-free soil types, most appreciate a little shade although many will flower well in sun if the soil is not parched.

The top types to choose from are evergreen azaleas (neat growth, spectacular in flower) and Yakushimanun Hybrids (very hardy and easy to grow, impressive foliage).

10. Laurustinus (Viburnum tinus)

• Hardiness: RHS H4
• Height: 6-20ft (1.8-6m)
• Uses: Good as tall ground cover, an informal hedge, a border specimen, foundation planting, and smaller varieties are good in containers. Increasingly popular for cutting.

A dependable and versatile evergreen shrub with dark green oval foliage that makes the perfect background to show off the clusters of small fragrant pink or white flowers in winter, often opening from darker pink or red buds. In mild areas the flowers may open from autumn into early spring, with black berries to follow.

In terms of ongoing care, this variety is happy in fertile soil in shade, or in partial shade if the roots are moist.

Good types of viburnum to try include Eve Price (compact growth, bright pink buds) and Spirit (‘Anvi’) ’ (white flowers from autumn to spring).

FAQs

Do you need to prune evergreen shrubs?

When it comes to pruning shrubs, there is no one rule of pruning for all evergreens, but they can conveniently be divided into three groups.

• Evergreen shrubs that flower in the summer or autumn, including Scotch heather and Japanese aralia, are pruned in the spring when growth is starting.
• Evergreen shrubs that flower in winter or spring, such as mountain laurel and camellia, are best pruned soon after flowering.
• Those evergreen shrubs that are grown for their foliage can either be left unpruned, or cut back in spring to encourage fresh new growth, or clipped over once or twice a year to maintain a neat shape.

How can I make sure evergreen shrubs in containers survive the winter?

Evergreen shrubs growing in planters will take less cold than those planted in the open ground.

In late autumn, move your containers close to the wall of your house or into a sheltered corner of your garden.

Use pot feet to lift the container above the ground to allow surplus moisture to drain away – otherwise, in icy conditions, the whole pot will freeze solid and the roots of your evergreen will be frozen in a block of water! An alternative situation is to place them in a porch or cool sun room.

If you live in an area that experiences colder winters, you can provide more protection for your evergreen shrubs by planting them in a sheltered part of your garden or by providing a garden fence or windbreak as protection against icy winds.

If they do show signs of damage, some plants will make fresh growth in spring if you prune out the damaged shoots.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Getting in the know about the common rose pests and diseases is crucial if you want the best chance at growing success. After all, it's good to know what to look out for, as the quicker you spot problems the quicker you can treat them.

Whether you're planting roses in pots or growing them in your flowerbeds, these classic garden plants can be prone to a few complications.

Luckily, most can be treated, so don't let them put you off adding them to your garden. We've brought together advice on five of the most common ailments that roses can suffer from, to help keep your plants looking tip-top.

1. Rust disease

Rust is a fungal disease that causes orange and black blemishes on the underside of the leaves and stems of roses. It can also cause leaves to fall prematurely.

John Negus, a renowned horticulturalist and gardening journalist, advises treating affected plants by spraying them with a systemic insecticide and fungicide such as RoseClear Ultra, available on Amazon, and then collecting and burning affected leaves. "New growth will be healthy," he says.

You can help prevent it by sprinkling sulphate of potash over the root area of your plants from mid-spring to early fall, he adds. This Westland sulphate of potash from Amazon is pre-measured and easy to apply to your plants.

Some modern types of roses are also resistant to this problem, so bear this in mind when choosing plants for your garden.

2. Leafhoppers

Rose leafhoppers feed on rose leaf surfaces, creating a finely mottled effect. Damage is worse in long, dry summers and often results in premature leaf fall.

Using eco-friendly garden ideas to encourage predatory insects and other creatures to your plot, such as birds and ladybirds, can help prevent infestations. You can also tackle them with pesticides, but fundamentally, leafhoppers are usually not too much of a cause for concern and, in many cases, can be tolerated.

3. Rose balling

If you've noticed your roses becoming withered with brown patches and buds failing to open properly, it could be a problem called 'rose balling'. This is especially common in double varieties, and can affect other plants in your garden design, such as peonies, too.

"It often occurs when wet weather is followed by hot sunshine," explains Christine Walkden, a gardening expert and BBC TV presenter.

"The outer petals of the rosebuds become scorched and papery, and distort the inner petals as they open out. The bud and flowers may then be infected with grey mould.

"There is no treatment for the problem other than pruning out the affected buds," she continues. "You can also help your roses by avoiding watering in bright or hot sunshine, so try watering in the evenings instead."

John Negus says that avoiding splashing the flower buds when watering your roses can help, too. Planting them where there is good air circulation can also be beneficial in preventing rose balling, as any rain that adheres to the leaves and petals will dry quicker.

Another way to help prevent this problem is to feed your rose with sulphate of potash in mid-spring and continue monthly until early autumn, he adds. "Water it in and it will help new growth resist adverse weather conditions."

4. Sawfly

Sawfly is generally seen as one of the more troublesome rose pests.

"The adult lays her eggs inside the soft stems of roses, which then split open leaving long scars on the stems," says John. "Once hatched, the green larvae feed voraciously on the leaves." Damaged leaves roll inwards along their length, and remain that way for the rest of the season.

To treat this pest, remove affected stems, remove the larvae by hand, or use an insecticide spray in early summer, following the manufacturer's instructions carefully. "Do not spray once the rose is in flower to avoid harming pollinating insects," says John.

If the leaves on your roses are already affected, remove and burn them.

"Some varieties, such as 'Peace', 'Albertine', 'Masquerade', and 'Queen Elizabeth' are more susceptible to attack than others," he adds.

5. Powdery mildew

If your rose plants have become covered in a greyish-white, powdery coating, they are likely to be suffering from powdery mildew. It's a common disease caused by the fungus Podosphaera pannosa, and can affect the plants' vigour. Humidity increases the risk of it developing, as can drought-stress.

You can help prevent this problem by making sure you plant your rose in the optimal position in your flowerbed or garden planter. This means providing good air circulation around it, ensuring it gets enough sunshine throughout the day, and making sure the soil is moisture-retentive but well-draining.

Treat it by pruning out affected areas and disposing of them as soon as you spot the problem developing, says the RHS. During routine rose pruning in spring, it's also best to cut out shoots showing larger patches of mildew around the thorns.

You can also treat powdery mildew with a fungicide, following manufacturers' instructions.

With their beautiful fragrance and romantic, cottage garden aesthetic, there's good reason why roses are many gardeners' favourite bloom.

Although roses are generally relatively easy to care for, knowing how to spot any potential pests or diseases will ensure they have the best possible chance of producing brilliant blooms year after year.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

We spend so much time organising our homes, but the garden often gets forgotten. Whether it's an overfilled shed with tools crammed inside or outdoor cushions that get ruined each winter, many of us are guilty of neglecting this space.

Organising your garden might seem like a massive job, but after speaking to the experts, I've discovered that it doesn't have to be. All it takes is five simple products that work hard in the background.

Below, you'll find the core essentials used in organised garden designs, as recommended by the pros.

1. Storage bench

A storage bench (or any other piece of multifunctional furniture, for that matter) is one of the best investments you can make for your outdoor space – especially if you're looking for budget small garden ideas.

Jenny Davis, Head of Marketing at Forest Garden, agrees. "A storage bench can provide seating and a practical place to keep cushions, throws or children’s outdoor toys, helping the space feel calmer and more considered.”

Top tip: make sure you choose a storage bench that's weatherproof and well-ventilated to ensure your belongings stay damp- and mould-free throughout the cold and rainy months.

Our favourite storage benches

2. A dedicated bike shed

Feel free to skip to number three if you don't have a bike, but for those who do, a dedicated shed is a must-have, according to Jenny Davis.

For one, bikes and scooters are often used more regularly than other items you may store in your shed, so they benefit from being easily accessible. Secondly, they also take up much more space, so it's best to store them separately to avoid having to climb over them.

"A dedicated bike shed can be a brilliant solution because it keeps cycles protected from the weather while stopping them from taking over patios, side returns or garages," adds Jenny.

3. Wheelie bin storage

If you've spent hours perfecting your garden design, the last thing you want is an unsightly wheelie bin spoiling the view – especially now that most households have around five different containers.

While you can't leave your bins out on the street, that doesn't mean they have to take over your garden. You can disguise or hide them with one of the best wheelie bin storage ideas, as shown above.

Not only will these keep your bins out of sight, but many will also prevent pests from getting inside. Storing them in a purpose-built storage unit, rather than on the grass, can also stop them making a mess of your lawn.

"I like to include a simple timber screen or slatted enclosure within the design from the beginning, positioning it close enough to the house for convenience while keeping it out of the main view from the garden and inside the home," says Mirela Bajic of House Designer.

Wheelie bin storage picks

4. Gardening tool rack

Everyone with a garden, no matter how much gardening they do, should invest in a dedicated tool rack, as shown in the photo above. They're incredibly useful for storing everything from gloves to rakes, ensuring everything is easy to locate.

If you have plenty of room in your shed, you may want to invest in a freestanding unit with built-in racks, hooks and shelving. Those with a smaller shed could install a wall-mounted option to free up valuable floor space.

If you do decide to go for a wall-mounted option, you could go one step further by labelling each hook so everything gets put back in the right spot.

Tool racks worth buying

5. Automatic wall-mounted hose

If, like me, your garden hose is always in a tangled mess on the floor, I've found the perfect solution: an automatic wall-mounted hose reel, like the one from Amazon below.

Instead of having to wind up your hose by hand (or leaving it strewn across the lawn when you can't be bothered), this style retracts it for you while freeing up floor space.

After hearing my dad rave about his for weeks, I've finally caved and will be adding one to my outdoor space pronto.

"One of the biggest mistakes is buying storage without measuring properly or thinking about access. Good garden organisation should make life simpler, not create another awkward corner to work around," concludes Jenny Davis.

If you found this helpful, you may also want to read our guide on how to organise a porch and how to organise a utility room.

Pool house ideas used to be an afterthought, often tacked onto the end of a garden with little more purpose than storing float toys and pool chemicals. But not anymore. Today these swimming pool fixtures are just as likely to be where the real living happens, especially in the warmer months, with a kitchen for grilling, a shower for rinsing off, and enough comfortable seating that nobody wants to head back indoors.

If you're planning your own pool house, the options range from a simple timber cabin with a changing area to a fully serviced garden room with heating, plumbing, and a bar.

What you build depends on your budget and how much of the year you want to use it for, but there's nothing stopping you from taking inspiration from a variety of creative projects.

1. Design a modern multi-purpose pool house that works twice as hard

This contemporary, timber-clad pool house is proof that "modern" doesn't have to mean bare and unwelcoming. The flat roof and simple rectangular footprint keep things pleasingly uncluttered, while the full-height glazed doors open the whole building onto the pool. It's a good option if your main house already leans modern, since a pool house built in a similar palette of timber, glass and dark metal will slot in like it's always been there.

Inside, a fitted kitchenette and changing area mean this pool house is just as happy hosting a summer lunch as it is drying off swimmers, so there's no need to pick a single job description. According to Makenzie Polden, marketing executive at Green Retreats, this is a garden trend that's catching on:

"We're definitely seeing more customers design spaces that serve multiple purposes rather than a single function," she says. "The beauty of a bespoke garden room is that it doesn't have to be limited to one purpose. By carefully planning the layout, customers can create a building that adapts to different activities as their lifestyle changes. A pool house combined with a garden bar or entertaining space is one of the most popular choices, creating a natural hub for hosting family and friends during the warmer months."

2. Have the space? Go all-in with a classic garden annexe pool house

Not every pool house needs to look like a modern glass box. This design proves the case for something more traditional, with a pitched, tiled roof, a striking triangular gable window, and soft cream joinery that lets it sit comfortably in a mature, planted garden.

"The brief was to create a fully functioning garden annexe which would allow the owners full use throughout the year," explains George Lucas, marketing Manager at Vale Garden Houses. "Folding doors across the front give a covered yet seamless connection to the poolside in summer, while for the colder months, the room is fitted with underfloor heating and benefits from a cosy log burner, providing ambience and comfort."

Practically speaking, an annexe-style pool house works hard too. According to George, this project, "discreetly houses male and female changing rooms, bathroom/shower facilities, and a service room at the rear for pumps, filters, heaters and other swimming pool paraphernalia," with the main living space set up for relaxing rather than just changing, with sofas and a, "butler's kitchen for making anything from hot drinks to cocktails."

3. Give the design as much thought inside as you do outside

This timber-clad pool house, designed by Alexandra Young, opens onto the terrace through full-width glazed doors, and it's clear from the moment you step inside that nobody's settling for a glorified shed here.

A little more finessed than your typical outdoor kitchen, the one in this pool house has been given just as much love as anything you'd find in the main house, right down to the farmhouse-style sink, patterned Roman blind and the well-worn wooden table. It's the kind of space that makes you want to linger with a glass of something cold rather than dash back indoors the moment you've dried off from a swim.

Even the practical side gets the same treatment, with a neat storage nook of hooks, a shelf and woven baskets keeping swimwear and towels tidy without a single beach towel left to fend for itself on a sun lounger.

4. Choose a turnkey pool house if you don't want to manage a build

If project managing a build isn't appealing, a turnkey pool house is well worth a look. This one from Green Retreats shows the appeal in an instant: sleek and contemporary, finished in dark charcoal external cladding with a crisp flat roof, delivered and installed as a complete package rather than pieced together on site.

As Makenzie Polden explains, the real value of this approach comes down to what's included from the outset: "Choosing a fully finished, all-inclusive garden room ensures your pool house is comfortable in every season and offers far better long-term value," she says.

But her advice comes with a small caveat. "The first thing we recommend is looking carefully at what's actually included as standard. While there are plenty of lower-cost modular garden rooms on the market, many don't include the features that make a pool house comfortable and practical throughout the year."

That distinction matters more than it might first appear. "A quality garden room should come fully insulated, with electrics, quality glazing and everything needed to create a space that's ready to use from day one," Makenzie adds. "Otherwise, what initially looks like a cheaper option can quickly become more expensive once essential upgrades are added."

5. Include a shower for rinsing off before or after a swim

Installing an outdoor shower for rinsing off before or after a swim doesn't have to be a purely functional addition. In this project by Pfeiffer Design, a large shower enclosure sits at the heart of the pool house, separated from the main living space by a clever partition wall rather than pushed into a room of its own. As Eloise Pfeiffer, business manager explains, the layout was designed so, "both active and calm behaviour can coincide," keeping a sense of connection between the two zones.

The same moss-green tiles from the kitchenette run through to the walk-in shower, paired with a matt black shower head and controls. As Eloise notes, it isn't purely practical either, the space was created so guests can gather to relax with a drink" nearby, while still being part of the activity. It's a reminder that a shower deserves the same design attention as the rest of the pool house, rather than being treated as an isolated wet room.

6. Go off-grid with an architect-designed eco pool house

That living roof you spy isn't just a nice touch, it's part of a much bigger sustainability story. This pool house, designed by The Vawdrey House, was built with an off-grid ambition from the outset, incorporating solar PV panels, a ground source heat pump and a Tesla Powerwall to keep it running independently of the grid. Even the pool gets the eco treatment, using mineral filters instead of chlorine to produce spring-quality water that's kinder to both the environment and the people swimming in it.

The larch timber cladding does more than look good, either. As Sophie Chapman, associate and interior designer at The Vawdrey House, explains, "a notable design feature is the larch timber cladding and overhang that keeps direct sunlight off the glazed doors," with detailed 3D models and sun paths used to work out the optimum orientation and shading, so the building stays comfortable rather than turning into a greenhouse on a hot day.

It's a beautiful example of what's possible when sustainability is baked into the design from the outset, and exactly the kind of project where bringing in an architect early pays off.

7. Blur the lines between indoor and outdoor entertaining

Take a closer look at this Sussex Pool House designed by The Vawdrey House and you'll quickly lose track of where the swimming pool ends and the building begins (which is precisely the point). It's the perfect case for designing a pool house that blurs the lines between inside and out.

A contemporary fire pit and a sprawling outdoor sofa sit right up against the sliding glass wall, so a lounger by the pool and a spot by the fire are never more than a few footsteps apart. Fold the doors back, and the whole terrace essentially becomes one giant room.

Inside, a proper bar counter and a pair of pendant lights makes it clear this isn't just somewhere to towel off, it's somewhere to actually stay and make an evening of it. And just when you think the building's played its final card, there's a garden sauna tucked in beyond the changing area – because apparently a pool, a bar and a fire pit still weren't quite enough luxury!

8. Make your design the centrepiece of a natural swimming pond

Not every swimming pool needs sharp edges and turquoise tiles to earn its keep. This octagonal garden room sits beside a natural swimming pond rather than a chlorinated rectangle, with a simple wooden jetty leading straight down to the water's edge.

A traditional tiled roof, crisp white timber cladding and full-height glazed doors give it the presence of a proper garden pavilion, so it reads as the natural focal point of the garden even before anyone's stepped into the water.

It's a good option if you're drawn to a more naturalistic pool or pond setup, since a classic, symmetrical design like this can anchor a soft, wild landscape without ever looking out of place against it.

9. Choose an affordable timber cabin, then make it your own

You don't need a big budget to create a pool house that feels inviting. This simple timber log cabin proves the point, with a covered veranda giving shelter from sunshine, and a run of potted plants and trailing blooms along the decking softening the space. Strings of fairy lights along the canopy and a couple of wicker sofas are enough to turn a straightforward, budget-friendly structure into somewhere people actually want to spend time.

If you want to elevate a cabin like this further, a lick of paint on the timber cladding is one of the simplest ways to make it feel more considered, whether that's a soft heritage tone to blend into the garden or a bolder colour to make a feature of it.

Outdoor lighting does a lot of the same work for the evenings, festoon lights, wall lanterns, or even simple spike lights along the decking can make a modest build feel just as atmospheric after dark as it does in daylight.

10. Design a traditional glazed pool house for added wow-factor

If your property is listed, or simply if you want the design to sit well alongside the main house, it's worth bringing in an architect from the start.

To keep the planning process smooth, the design should echo the existing building's roofline, window style, and proportions, in the way this design takes cues from traditional orangery ideas.

Planning authorities will always pay close attention to the roofline, the position of any gables, and how the building sits relative to neighbouring properties, so getting these details right early on matters. Solar control glass is also a glazing innovation that can help here, keeping the room comfortable while reducing heating costs.

11. Create an alfresco dining space by the poolside

Who says a pool house needs four walls? This oak-framed design by Lara Clarke Interiors keeps one whole side open to the water, with a run of reclaimed dining chairs and a long table tucked under the covered porch, so meals can happen just steps from the pool without anyone worrying about a shower coming in.

The weathered green oak posts and beams, paired with a traditional clay tile roof, give the structure a sense of age that sits comfortably against the original stone barn behind it, while a tall black flue signals a wood burner inside for when the evenings turn cool.

To really take your alfresco dinners up a notch, consider adding a garden bar to your design or an additional sheltered BBQ area.

12. Choose a small design for a compact poolside

Not every pool house needs to be a big statement building. This compact, white-painted structure proves the point, offering little more than a covered veranda, a place to sit, and enough shelter to keep towels and cushions dry, yet it still feels every bit as considered as something twice the size.

Keeping things small is also a practical way to manage costs when building a pool house. Skip the plumbing and full electrics, and a modest pool house like this becomes a far more affordable addition than a fully serviced garden room.

13. Transform your pool house into the ultimate entertaining hub

Sometimes the pool isn't the main event. Here, the real draw is the private hot tub tucked onto the decking beside the main building, giving guests somewhere warm to retreat to whatever the season.

The pool house itself, clad in warm redwood with slide-fold doors spanning almost the full width, opens straight onto the terrace so the hot tub and the pool all read as one connected space rather than separate zones. Step inside and there's a proper bar setup and a comfortable lounge with a television, so the party can carry on indoors just as easily as out.

It's less of an accessory to the swimming pool, more a hub for the whole garden, where a dip in the hot tub, a drink at the bar, and time by the pool all happen within a few steps of each other.

Of course, a pool house is only ever half the story. Getting the swimming pool itself right matters just as much, so it's worth reading up on the most common swimming pool mistakes before you start digging, since a few small decisions early on can save a lot of expense later. If privacy is a concern, garden screening can help section off the pool area from the rest of the garden, while shade sails offer a quick, low-cost way to shelter from the sunshine.

On a sunny day I can't think of many things I love more than taking the opportunity to indulge in a little alfresco dining, be that a quick working lunch for one or a get-together with friends. That said, much of the enjoyment of eating outdoors is hinged on the setting – and my own outdoor dining area is seriously lacking.

While the concept of sitting down to enjoy meals in the garden might be a nice one, the reality does not always match the dream. Without the right patio design ideas or proper set-up all kinds of things can spoil the experience, from nosey neighbours to wobbly tables and chairs.

I am desperate to squeeze the most out of summer this year, and have decided it's time for me to create the perfect outdoor dining area. I reached out to some top garden and landscaping experts for their help and they took me through the 7 key elements for creating the ideal space.

1. Get your sizes spot on for a comfortable experience

While I wouldn't say my patio is small, I am considering expanding it a little in a bid to make it feel a little less cramped when there are lots of people around the table. The experts explained to me that, while you shouldn't let a small patio put you off creating a space to eat outdoors, it does pay to think about how comfortable an overly-cramped dining space will be to eat in.

Garden design and consultation specialist Jamie Haire explains that it is wise to first think about how many people you need to seat and the size of your table. "I recently designed a space to take a table measuring 2m x 1m and made the patio 3m x 4m – that allowed plenty of space for people to move around."

"It's best to allow at least one metre clearance around the table on all sides for chairs and movement," adds Mirela Bajic, senior garden designer at House Designer.

2. Straight lines tend to work better than curved

This is one area I appear to have got right. While curves and circular areas of planting can contribute to some beautiful garden landscaping ideas, according to the experts I spoke to, when it comes to dining areas, straight lines tend to make better use of space.

"Everyone likes curves, but for dining outside, they just don't work that well," says Jamie Haire. "When you create a rectangular or square space you get more bang for your buck – and then you can use lots of planting surrounding the space to soften the whole look and create a connection with nature."

Mirela Bajic agrees agrees that linear spaces are the way to go and suggests using your table shape as a guide. "Matching the shape of the patio to the shape of the table is great for aesthetics. Circular looks beautiful but wastes usable space around the edges."

3. Choose ground surfaces with care

Perhaps one of the most important elements of outdoor dining area design is the garden paving ideas you go with – your choice will not only have a massive effect on the look of the space but also on how well it performs, both now, and over time. My own patio has sandstone slabs which actually work well – although they require regular cleaning to stay looking good.

"My favourites are limestone or another form of natural stone – as well as York stone," reveals Jamie Haire. "New York stone works particularly well as it is calibrated and gives an even, smooth surface. Make sure you lay paving with tight joints so that chair legs don't get stuck in them.

"Natural stone can stain if grease gets on it so it must be properly sealed – and choose a slightly etched finish to make sure it doesn't get slippery in the wet," he adds, going on to explain that some newer kinds of decking can also be a great option.

"Composite decking is a good option, or oak setts. Allgreen charred oak setts can be used to create a pad of paving than works brilliantly under furniture," Jamie suggests.

While Jamie's preference is for natural materials, Mirela Bajic points out that porcelain is a great low-maintenance alternative. "Porcelain is the easiest to maintain, does not stain, does not need sealing and cleans with a hose. It's always popular with our clients," she notes.

4. Your lighting will make or break the scheme

This is one area where my outdoor dining space really falls flat. It is lit by two wall lights on the outside of the house. A more thoughtful approach would really transform it.

"Garden lighting is my favourite part of designing an outdoor dining area," says Jamie Haire. "Set all your lighting on dimmers so you can change the ambience – light up surrounding trees, use downlighters in your pergola and consider an outdoor chandelier over your table."

Alina Enache, co-founder of Lamp Genius, also suggests using multiple light sources for the best effect. "For dining areas, I recommend a few different layers of lighting – either solar or using your mains supply.

"First, use portable outdoor table and floor lamps for surrounding tables and sofas," continues Alina. "If the area is next to a wall, you can utilise this by adding exterior wall lights such as an up-and-down wall washer, which provides a nice ambient light for the area. Post or bollard lights are great for surrounding the dining area or lighting a pathway leading up to it," she suggests.

"Finally, string lights are perfect for hanging over the entire area, but try to choose styles which are not overpowering in terms of light output, as you want to create a balance between the other lights in the space. I always recommend using a warm white colour temperature for outdoor dining areas (2700k)."

Shop garden lighting

5. Shading is non-negotiable

For your dining space to be a pleasure to spend time in, even in the middle of a hot day, you need to think of a few patio cover ideas that could work – this is something I am keen to address as ours currently has none. Choose wisely and your shading can also double up as a rain cover.

"No-one wants to be eating in the full glare of the sun," picks up Jamie Haire. "I always include some form of shading in my designs. Louvred pergolas with slats that can open and close work really well, as do retractable canopies."

Mirela Bajic also highlights the importance of thinking about the orientation of your dining area when considering shading methods. "South or south-west facing spaces catch the sun in the afternoon and evening, which is when most people dine outdoors. Either a fixed pergola or even a large umbrella will help to manage shade on hot days."

Shop patio shading

6. Outdoor dining areas can be set away from the house

My patio is set next to the kitchen wall and this does come in handy when it comes to passing cutlery and dishes out of the kitchen window, but these days, there is no need for an outdoor dining space to always be in such close proximity to the house.

According to Jamie Haire, it all depends on the garden and house in question. "Some people, with open plan kitchens and large glazed openings, want their dining space to lead directly off from this. However, I prefer it when the dining area is pushed back a little with planting to separate it from the house. It is nice to take a journey through the 'rooms' of the garden to get there – although you need to make sure to create a clear pathway," he advises.

"The rise of the outdoor kitchen has also made it less important for outdoor dining areas to be next to the house," adds Jamie. "Most of my clients these days ask for a gas connection to outside so they can cook out there."

7. Design features to create a sense of seclusion

Finally, once you have gone to all the trouble of creating your dream dining space in your garden, the last thing you want is for it to feel overlooked. Tall hedging means this isn't a problem for me, but, with neighbours on both sides, I still feel a little conscious of being eavesdropped on when eating outside. This is why it is so important to design in some patio privacy ideas.

"Carefully positioned trees are the best way to provide privacy around a dining space," says Jamie Haire. "Choose multi-stemmed varieties and combine them with dense shrubs and planting. It is also a good idea to keep your dining area away from any boundaries between you and your neighbours. You can use your privacy measures, be that planting or a pergola, to form your views from the space."

And Jamie has a great way of heightening the sense of seclusion using sound too. "Adding in a water feature creates a calming kind of white noise so you don't feel you are being listened in on."

FAQs

Should you ever put an outdoor dining space on grass?

We all love a picnic and the feeling of grass underfoot, but a dining area on grass? Is it ever a good idea – even if you are after cottage garden patio ideas?

"No," states Jamie. "Firstly think how tricky it'll be to mow around. Secondly, the ground will be soft and full of moisture after it rains.

"I would, however, consider gravel," continues Jamie. "You can get self-binding gravel – such as this Somerset Buff Selfbinda from Allgreen – that compacts itself over time and sets hard."

How do you keep bugs from spoiling your al fresco meals?

My daughter is a total bug hater, meaning most outdoor meals are frequently disturbed by lots of squealing and arm waving. I asked Jamie Haire whether there was a way of designing a bug-free dining space.

"In short, no," says Jamie. "You want to encourage creatures into your garden. Of course, you can use citronella candles and sprays, but really it is a case of just using measures like cloches over food. It is all part of the experience."

Torn between patio or decking for your outdoor dining space? Both can work really well but be sure to look into all their pros and cons before making your final decision. And, if you're creating a new patio especially for dining, be sure to avoid these common patio mistakes.

Clever shade sail ideas are the latest way to help you make the most of your outdoor living space in summer. They offer a source of shade and even UV protection, keeping your family safe from the harsh rays during the summer months.

Waterproof shade sails can also protect against showers in rainy weather, allowing you to spend more time outside in comfort. These semi-permanent structures are an excellent addition to any garden or patio area as they are so easy to install and are available in various designs to suit all individual styles.

Whether you're looking to shelter a compact deck or a larger outdoor dining space, these practical and often budget-friendly designs are one of the best patio ideas out there.

1. Shield your interior space from the sun

Awnings are excellent for gardens that get bathed in sunshine as they provide shade right at the entrance to your property, the ideal location for a dining table. In doing so, this coverage allows you to leave your patio doors open without worrying that your home may overheat.

Their downside is that awnings are an expensive purchase, likely to set you back a fair amount. Luckily, you can create a similar patio cover set up with an inexpensive rectangular shade sail. Simply attach two fixtures to your exterior wall just above your patio doors, with the other two outer corners attached to nearby poles, trees or adjacent garden walls.

"A sail shade can be a more affordable option to an awning," says Evie Lane, former gardening expert at Primrose. "They also provide the benefit of being a more flexible garden addition than a permanent awning structure."

2. Shelter an outdoor living space with a sail shade

If you're not a fan of pergola ideas, a sail shade is a great alternative for creating shade where you need it most (which is usually your outdoor living area).

Add a design overhead and you will have a space that you can enjoy even when the sun is at its hottest and highest, while enhancing the feeling of having an ‘extra room’ outdoors.

Triangular sails work best for covering smaller or more precise areas, while square or rectangular sails provide greater coverage but require more space and stronger support.

3. Supersize your sail shade for sun safety

Go for a big design if you want to ensure your patio furniture space stays completely sheltered from the sun. The shade sail above by Wayfair offers 98% UV resistance, so you can stay warm alfresco without having to reapply sunscreen every couple of hours.

Alternatively, if you lack the space for a large sail, a mini version will work just as well. Small shade sail ideas are a stylish alternative to garden parasols and are perfect for sheltering a bistro set.

If you choose a waterproof option, ensure that one corner is lower to allow sufficient drainage.

4. Invest in a semi-permanent shade

Shade sails are often sold without the fixtures or poles needed to set them up in your garden as a freestanding design. Each shade sail set up has different needs depending on your outdoor space, so these can usually be purchased separately from the same company.

The gazebo/shade sail hybrid above, however, comes complete with all the fixtures and fittings required to install it freestanding in your garden right away. The frame is made from powder-coated steel and the sail is fixed on in multiple points to ensure a solid and taut shade.

We love how it creates a really simple yet stylish patio or decking cover, drawing attention to the main outdoor seating area in this urban back garden.

5. Try some colour overhead

While the majority of shade sails tend to be white, they do come in a variety of colours, just like you find with patio umbrellas and awnings.

If your garden needs a bit of a style boost whilst being kind to your bank balance, colourful shade sail ideas are perfect for creating a cheap garden shelter with a dash of warmth. They can also be a great way to create a BBQ shelter, offering protection from the sun when you are cooking alfresco.

Shop colourful shade sails

6. Shelter while you dine

The joy of dining outdoors can be somewhat kerbed if you’re sweating into your salad in the hot sun.

Although a pergola can be a wonderful shade-creating addition to an outdoor kitchen space, if you don't have the time and means to learn how to build a pergola, then a shade sail is a quick and cheap alternative.

Hanging a shade sail overhead means that you and your guests can enjoy the fresh air that outdoor dining affords, without feeling uncomfortable as you eat.

7. Zone a corner with a shade sail

A corner outdoor sofa placed against a garden wall or tall garden fence is perfectly matched with a triangular shade sail.

Depending on the size and length of your sofa, you may need to choose a triangular design that has two long sides and one short, or an equilateral shape to ensure everyone seated gets the most amount of shade when the sun is at its highest. Secure it to the wall or fence in the corner and to the far edges on the two outer sides.

8. Go small for both sun and shade options

Some people like to be bathed in sunshine, while others prefer to keep cool in the shade. Give everyone the luxury of both options by hanging a small triangular shade over a square or rectangular seating area.

In the example above, the shade partially covers the table, giving everyone the option to choose where they want to sit comfortably.

9. Choose a portable sail shade

One of the issues when going for a picnic or camping is the lack of shade while you relax outdoors. Unlike features such as garden arbours, shade sails are perfectly portable – all you need is a vertical surface or tree and a few lengths of rope to hang the corners from.

What’s more, they will also protect you from an unexpected rain shower, too. If the rain does make an appearance, just make sure that you tension your sail fully in order for the rainwater to run off.

FAQs

Which is the best shade sail design for my space?

Shade sails usually come in a range of shapes – square, rectangle, equilateral triangle and right-angled triangle.

"There is no size or shape that is any better than the next," explains Claire Maclean, Founder of Clara Shade Sails. "It all depends on the space you are trying to cover, where your fixing points are and how much shade and weather protection you want."

"You’ll want to order a shade sail that is slightly smaller than the area you want to cover," advises Nadia McCowan Hill, Resident Style Advisor at Wayfair. "A smaller size prevents the sail from blowing around in windy weather and causing structural damage to the attachment points."

"When installing the shade sail, you will pull it taut and stretch it as far as possible. It’s key that the material of your shade sail begins 30cm from your anchor point."

What can you use for shade sail posts?

"Once you've chosen the location for your shade sail that works best, you need to determine the attachment points. These can be trees, your house, a fence post, or any sturdy structure such as a pergola," says Nadia McCowan Hill.

How taut should a shade sail be?

"If you're just wanting a sail to create some temporary shade, then many of our customers are happy to just loosely tie their sails," says Claire Maclean. "Installing this way achieves more of a billowy look and, particularly with the smaller sails, this can look and work quite nicely in a garden and also inside in a conservatory."

"If, however, you are intending to use the sail during wet weather or are intending to leave it out as a more permanent addition to your patio then your sail should ideally be pulled very tight. The curved sides allow for this additional tension," Claire advises.

"One of our customers used the term 'tight as a drum' to describe her successful installation. Pulling them taut and installing them on an angle will make sure the water runs off and doesn’t pool or puddle on top."

Are shade sails good for rain?

"We recommend that shade sails are taken down during extreme weather such as high winds and very heavy rain,", advises Claire Maclean, Founder Director at Clara Shade Sails.

"If you are intending to use a shade sail during wet weather," continues Claire, "you must install your sail at an angle of 20-30 degrees, depending on the size of your sail, to allow any rain water to run off.

"Where some posts are higher than others, a diagonal line will be involved which will change the length of your measurement. If square or rectangle, two of the corners will need to be positioned lower than the others, and if a triangle, at least one of the corners. However, if water does collect on top, all is not lost. Just use a broom handle or similar to push from underneath to push the water off the top," she says.

Offering protection from the sun and rain, these innovative shade sail ideas are a great addition to any garden space. Quicker and easier to install than more permanent patio covers, they're a cost-effective way to create a more comfortable outdoor living area.

Adding a shade sail is also a way of creating a more private outdoor space during the warmer months. For a more permanent garden screening idea, you might want to consider investing in one of the best trees for privacy too.

Add some BBQ shelter ideas to your garden design plans and you'll be able to make the most of your outdoor cooking zone come rain or shine. It's the best way to extend your alfresco living space and enjoy the fresh air for longer, and there are plenty of options to suit all sorts of plots.

An overhead cover isn't just practical, but it can also give the visual appeal of your zone a boost. And, it can even up the sense of privacy – handy for overlooked, urban spaces.

So, if you you've found yourself cooking outside more this year, then it's well worth considering BBQ shelter ideas, to protect you both from the sun and showers.

1. Create semi-shade with a striking side structure

Looking for a BBQ shelter to suit a modern garden? Something like this could be the perfect approach.

Adding such a simple, yet statement structure over your BBQ or outdoor kitchen is a great way to provide respite from the summer sun's glare. What's more, it provides definition to the zone.

Of course, it looks super stylish, too – we particularly like the contrast it provides against all the cool paved surroundings. And the bordering plants are the ideal match for a splash of architectural greenery.

2. Install a chic garden building for an outdoor living room

If you've got the budget and the space, consider a contemporary garden building to house your alfresco cooking and entertaining zone.

Integrated lights, chic wooden paneling, and a sturdy roof make this the perfect base for outdoor socialising in style – whatever time of day and whatever season.

A large, laid-back dining setup and comfy sofa complete this garden pergola idea – what more could you need for post-swim refreshments?

3. Choose a timber gazebo to shelter your BBQ

Gazebos are a classic garden feature that will never go out of style, particularly if you opt for a timber-framed version.

As long as you ensure there's enough clearance around your appliance, they are a great solution for covering an outdoor grill and complement almost any style of garden.

Pair your BBQ gazebo with timber-cladded counters to enhance the laid-back, naturalistic look and maintain a sense of cohesion. And for an even more comfortable outdoor experience, consider adding patio heaters attached up high to the structure. That way, you can keep guests happy and conversation flowing, even as night falls and temperatures drop.

4. Include a bar in your BBQ shelter

Combine your built-in BBQ ideas with a garden bar for the ultimate garden party setup. Add in a pizza oven, too, and you can mix up your culinary creations to suit the mood.

This sturdy shelter sits beautifully in the patio space, complementing the nearby rattan furniture. Cladded walls on two sides mean there's plenty of privacy screening from neighbours, while enabling the addition of useful shelves and decorative signs.

Shop furniture and decor for your BBQ area

5. Team a contemporary BBQ with a modern pergola

Plenty of people consider pergolas when designing decks or patios, and for good reason. From simple, timber constructions to high-tech, louvered designs with closing pergola roofs, they're a classic solution for providing a spot of shade.

And, there are plenty of ways they can be dressed up to elevate the look and feel of your outdoor space, too – from climbing plants trained around their structure to outdoor garden lighting.

We love how this design mirrors the BBQ station with its industrial-cool charcoal tone. And, the duo of pendant lights are both pretty and practical.

6. Get back to basics and BBQ over a garden fireplace

Love the thought of outdoor fireplace ideas for your garden? These rustic features are a surefire way to make a statement. And they aren't just for keeping everyone feeling cosy – add in some racks and grilling tools and you can cook up a feast over the flames.

Install your fireplace and chimney into a designated garden building and you can guarantee that it will get plenty of use all throughout the year. You could even take inspiration from this scene in terms of the log storage solution used – a stylish way to separate a dining area from a more relaxed, lounging zone.

7. Add lights to your outdoor structure for nighttime BBQs

Any patio screening idea can benefit from some outdoor lights. That way, the space will feel just as welcoming when the sun sets – just what you want when hosting summer evening soirées with loved ones. Take a look at this stunning setup, for instance.

Strings of festoon lights attached to the beams of a pergola or the roof of a gazebo are always a reliable choice for recreating that chilled-out, beach-bar vibe. And as well as boosting the ambience, it will allow you to see exactly what you're doing should you wish to continue cooking.

8. Keep your BBQ shelter simple and sleek

Keep the look clean and considered with a slick garden build like this that doubles up to define the boundary of your plot.

Recessed spotlights are always a good option for that subtle, streamlined look – whether you install them into the ceiling or into the paving or decking underfoot. This space benefits from under-counter lighting too – a contemporary way to brighten up any outdoor eating or dining area.

We also like the mix of materials here, which includes brushed stainless steel and granite worktops and plenty of timber for a relaxed, organic feel.

9. Add extra shelter with slatted panels

Opting for slatted panels, whether it's on a garden building like this or a simple screen between garden zones, is a great way to provide privacy and shelter while allowing light and air through.

It results in a pleasing, modern look, that's both stylish and practical. It can be particularly helpful in west-facing gardens where the late afternoon or evening sun may still be too bright. Pair with brightly coloured counters for a fun scheme that's perfect for a family garden.

10. Cover your cooking zone with an oversized parasol

When considering BBQ shelter ideas, don't forget about the less permanent options as well. Sometimes, a large garden parasol is just the thing for the job – particularly if you don't want to splash too much cash, or prefer to let the full force of the sunlight in at times.

One of the main benefits of a parasol, besides the generally lower price, is that they are so versatile – simply pop them up in the case of light drizzle or glaring sun. A side-pole design is often the best choice as it won't get in the way as you cook. And, for evening entertaining, you could take inspiration from this scene and suspend string lights around the canopy.

Shop for outdoor parasols

FAQs

What do you need to consider when choosing a BBQ shelter for your plot?

There are lots of factors to bear in mind when choosing your BBQ shelter ideas. One of the most important aspects is, of course, the safety implications. Jacques Shelton, MD of CENA Outdoor Kitchens, explains how any type of parasol, fabric shade, or shelter will need to be flame retardant, so always check the specifications to be sure.

If you're using a fabric shelter, Jacques also advises choosing a wipe-clean or washable design, "to prevent stains from smoke or flare-ups if you use a parasol over a BBQ or wood-fired oven."

Jacques also notes the importance of providing plenty of clearance between the heat source and fabric – essential even when it is flame retardant. This goes for sturdier structures too – if in any doubt, always check with the manufacturer as well as checking your BBQ requirements. And, "if a space is in any way enclosed, think about ventilation," he adds. "For example, ensuring there is the ability to open doors, glass walls, and roofs."

You'll want your shelter to be practical for your needs, as well as safe. "We think carefully about what the canopy is for, as rain covers and shades may need different solutions," explains Jacques. "Rain covers can be fixed, such as an oak-framed gazebo or a dedicated open-on-two-sides garden building. But, those going for shade solutions will need to consider the aspect and the movement of the sun, so we consider the best position or use something which can be moved – for example, a sail shade."

Fancy creating your own BBQ? Find out how to build a brick BBQ yourself, and if you think you might be hardy enough for year-round outdoor cooking, take a look at the best outdoor log-burners for a spot of extra warmth.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Although they are generally low-maintenance, there are a few common bay tree problems to get to grips with if you're planting one or two of these evergreens in your garden.

Bay tree problems are generally not too complicated – their easy care regime is one of the reasons they make one of the best trees to grow in pots. However, if you've spotted yellowing leaves, odd markings, loss of vigour, or other unexpected symptoms on your tree, then you'll likely want to get to the cause.

Below, we've rounded up top advice on how to identify and treat common issues that occur with these structural, aromatic trees, so you can continue to enjoy them in your back garden.

1. Scale insects

If you've spotted odd blemishes on the leaves of your bay tree, they have turned yellow and started to drop off, or have become coated in a sticky-like substance, scale insects may be the problem.

As John Negus, a renowned horticulturalist and gardening journalist explains, these are tiny, armadillo-shaped creatures that weaken trees by feeding on sap while releasing a sticky, honeydew-like substance.

You can control them with an insecticide that's safe to use on edible crops. Based on rape seed oil, it clogs the pest's breathing pores, which kills it. It is recommended for several pests. Alternatively, John suggests spraying the tree with a mild solution of washing-up liquid and water.

Additionally, fertilising the plants with sulfate of potash monthly from mid-spring to early fall is a good idea. Sprinkle it over the root area at 28g per square metre and water it in.

2. Restricted roots

If you have planted your bay tree in a garden planter and it's looking unhappy, it could be the size of the pot that's the problem.

Your tree could be distressed because its container is full of roots, so move the tree to a pot that is at least double the existing size. Water the compost to loosen feeding roots clinging to the side of the pot and gently remove the rootball.

Then, in the new pot, add a layer of crocks and nestle the roots into 7cm of soil-based compost mixed with a quarter part, by volume, of grit. Fill with more compost.

Replant the bay at the same depth at which it is growing and water it well. Mulching the top of the compost with slate or grit will help conserve moisture.

3. Bay suckers

Brown, curling leaves on a bay tree can be a sign of bay suckers – a pest resembling fluffy white stars that devours leaf undersides.

"When feeding, this creature causes the plant's leaves to develop thick, distorted bulges," explains John Negus. "Luckily, although this is unsightly, it doesn't do irrevocable damage to the bay." However, severe infestations can cause leaves to drop prematurely, and shoots to die.

As for controlling it, the best approach is to pick off and bin or burn affected foliage. Clear away fallen leaves and other debris from the base of the plant, too.

You could also use a pesticide, although several applications may be necessary. Remember to use one that's safe for edible crops if using the leaves for cooking. Ideally, do this during warm sunny days in spring, when the adults cluster on the shoot tips to feed before laying their eggs.

"Alternatively, encourage natural predators such as birds, ladybirds, wasps and ground beetles to frequent your garden," says John.

4. Leaf spot

Leaf spot is a fungal disease, which, John Negus explains, shows as necrotic gray or brown spots on the leaf.

"The best way to deal with
it is through good hygiene
and improved growing conditions," he says.

Start by removing affected leaves and raking up any fallen leaves. Then, feed the plant a balanced fertiliser early in spring to encourage new growth.

5. Winter damage

Bay trees are generally hardy to -5°C, according to the RHS, and can survive even lower temperatures if planted in a sheltered position. Simply wrapping pots in two layers of heavy-duty bubble wrap, covering the compost surface with 7–10cm of chipped bark, and positioning pots close to a south-facing wall is usually enough.

However, it's not a good idea to prune them during cold weather. Frosts can damage the cut surfaces, resulting in possible dieback. Instead, trimming the trees several times during the growing season is needed, stopping in early autumn.

Harsh winter conditions can also cause the bark to peel and crack, especially on main stems lower down on the plants, says the RHS. Although it may look unsightly, it tends not to be fatal, and generally, bays should recover the following summer. If parts of the plant die, however, simply remove these by cutting back to healthy wood or right down to near soil level.

These bay tree problems may be common, but by keeping an eye out for the above symptoms and following our expert-backed solutions, they’ll be revived in no time.

For more gardening advice, read our guide to box blight or learn about the worst time of year to prune a hedge.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

As cute as they may be, moles can be an absolute nuisance in the garden, leaving unsightly muddy hills in their path (which isn't ideal when you've spent months perfecting your garden design).

While moles are not dangerous and don't tend to eat plants, their digging can cause a big old mess on your lawn, so we don't blame you if you're looking for ways to get rid of them.

However, it's worth bearing in mind that moles are protected against cruelty under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1996, so extra care needs to be taken when dealing with them (which we would recommend anyway). To find out how to prevent them from tearing up your garden, keep reading.

How do I get rid of moles in my lawn?

When it comes to preventing moles in your garden, it all boils down to making the environment as unappealing as possible so they don't want to stick around for long. You can do this in three ways:

1. Keep the soil dry

Moles prefer damp or wet soil because it's easier to dig through. If possible, Tony King, Founder of The Pied Piper, recommends reducing excessive irrigation. Not only will this make the environment harder for them to tunnel through, but it will also reduce their food source (worms).

2. Install a sonic device

You may also want to install ultrasonic repellers, which emit low-frequency sounds and vibrations that moles find uncomfortable (it won't harm or kill them). These devices are also commonly used around the home to prevent other unwanted pests, such as rats and mice.

3. Have a cat or dog

If you've been thinking about adopting a new furry friend, we have some good news – they may also help deter moles from your garden, according to Darren Backhouse, Partner at MJ Backhouse Pest Control. While we wouldn't encourage you to get a pet for just this reason, it is a little bonus!

Why have moles suddenly appeared in my garden?

Wondering why moles have suddenly started appearing in your garden?

Darren Backhouse explains, "Most people only notice they have a mole when molehills appear, so the mole might have been there longer than you realise. They're attracted to damp soil where there’s a good food source for them."

How long will moles live in a garden?

Unless the soil becomes too dry or their food source declines, Darren Backhouse says that moles won't go away on their own and can live for around two to five years, (depending on the presence of predators).

Should you stomp down mole tunnels?

You may think that stomping on a tunnel will help the moles get the memo, but according to Tony King, it's not going to rid of them.

However, it will help you to determine which tunnel was recently used. "[If they] rebuild a tunnel within a couple of days after collapse, it tells you there is activity present in that location," he says.

While there isn't a quick fix for banishing moles from your garden, these preventative steps will help reduce and remove them over time.

For more pest control advice, read our guide on how to get rid of ants in the garden and how to get rid of chafer grubs in your garden.

As someone who works from home, I dream of an office space in which to shut myself away, somewhere I can keep all my equipment and supplies neatly stowed. I long for a wall of shelving complete with lamps, folders and trailing plants, an inspiration board hanging on the wall – all made complete by a beautifully organised desk and super comfortable chair.

Instead, my home office design comprises the breakfast bar, where I perch on a particularly uncomfortable stool and am regularly disturbed by children, pets, deliveries and the noise of the dishwasher. Not for long though. As part of our planned remodel and extension we will be constructing a garden office which, we hope, will double as a guest bedroom with shower room.

If, like me, a garden office is on your wish list, you'll be pleased to know I've been doing some research that should help. I reached out to the experts to find out which types of garden office there are, and the pros and cons to expect from each.

1. Flat packed timber systems

When people begin to look at how to build a garden room they tend to start with flat pack garden offices, often made from timber. These are a great budget option, starting from as little as £1,000.

They come in various designs. At the very basic end of the spectrum they are little more than garden sheds, waiting to be upgraded, while more expensive models are more like sturdy log cabins. Often, this type of garden office is available with a number of optional upgrades, such as double glazing, thicker wall and floor construction, insulation and so on.

"Timber is usually the cheapest way in, and for a lot of people it's fine," picks up Peter Barr, managing director at SIPCO. "The catch is that it only works as a year-round room if the insulation and moisture control are sorted from the start. If you skip that, you get something that's freezing by November and stifling by July, which is no good if you're using it every day."

"These timber buildings can often be purchased from garden centres or online suppliers and installed within a day or two," adds Gabrielle Allen, director of operations at InFrame Garden Rooms. "They are a good option for occasional use spaces where budget is the main consideration.

"The downside is that these buildings can struggle with temperature control," continues Gabrielle. "There is also very little flexibility in terms of design or layout. When it comes to selling a property, these structures are often viewed more as storage spaces or upgraded sheds, rather than true additional living space."

Pros:

• Budget-friendly
• Range of upgrades
• Readily available
• Quick to get up and running

Cons:

• Temperature regulation can be difficult
• DIY assembly required
• Shorter lifespan than other build systems

2. Modular garden offices

Next up are modular garden offices. Again, these come in all kinds of sizes and designs and are usually customisable, with the option of adding features such as electricity, lighting, heating and so on. They are most often constructed from timber or structural insulated panels (SIPs), but composite and fibre cement are also available.

Prices start from around £6,000 for basic double-glazed, fully insulated models with multi-point locking systems designed to be constructed on a DIY basis. However, if you want more than simple garden room ideas and are willing to stretch your budget, you can layer on extras such as lighting, superior insulation and so on, and many companies also offer free construction services within a set radius too.

"Modular is the quick option. Set sizes, set finishes, fewer decisions to make, installed fast," says Peter Barr. "You trade flexibility for that though, so if you've got an awkward plot, or you care about where the glazing and doors land, it can feel a bit 'off-the-peg'."

Pros:

• Customisable yet cheaper than bespoke
• Range of construction materials, from timber to composite
• Huge design choice available
• Insulation, flooring and double glazing included
• Secure
• Installation often included

Cons:

• Less design flexibility than fully bespoke
• Quality varies – do your research

3. Bespoke brick and block structures

This option is basically like building a little house in your garden and offers tonnes of flexibility in terms of design. While an architect or house designer is not necessarily a requirement, taking this route will ensure you are making the most of the space you have available.

While some people bravely decide to undertake this kind of build on a DIY basis, timescales are likely to be longer than for other types of garden room construction when opting for this route – hence why most people hire a builder to carry out the work.

It is extremely difficult to give costs for this type of structure given the fact that each will be different and, if you plan on adding in plumbing for bathrooms and kitchens, garden room heating and so on, costs will obviously rise. It is fair to say, however, that this is usually a more expensive route than either modular or flat-packed.

While garden room planning permission is not usually required for this type of structure, provided it falls within permitted development rights, building regulations will most certainly need to be adhered to.

Pros:

• Design and layout freedom
• Solid, well-insulated construction
• Add value to a house
• Various cladding options
• Useable year-round

Cons:

• Foundations required
• More expensive than modular or flat-pack
• Professional input usually needed
• Building regs approval necessary
• Longer build times

4. Timber frame buildings

A bespoke timber frame garden office is a beautiful way of creating a garden room or outbuilding.

Merry Albright, creative director at Border Oak, explains what this route involves. "Our garden offices are based upon the same construction principles as our oak framed outbuildings, but have upgraded and insulated panels so they form extra accommodation and work well as studios, home offices, art and craft rooms or a range of mixed uses. Often the buildings are weatherboarded as this is a good material for all sorts of settings and relatively cost effective. The trick is to work with a company with good quality cladding options.

"There are lots of design options and possibilities in terms of glazing variations, joinery and so on, and also oak frame options, including vaulted ceilings or porches, log stores and verandas," continues Merry. "The benefits are many – the buildings are beautiful and add real value to the host house, as well as complementing the garden. They last a long time and are lovely to work from (and impressive for visitors too) but they are also super sustainable and easy to build.

"Prices start at around £15,000 for a simple frame and panel encapsulation (for a local builder to complete, perhaps), and around £30,000 for a completed building," adds Merry. "For larger designs, which typically combine other uses such as a gym, garaging or extra bedrooms, we would suggest a budget of £50k upwards."

Pros:

• Beautiful additions to houses and gardens
• Add lots of value
• Multiple uses
• Characterful interiors
• Simple frames can be more affordable

Cons:

• At the higher end of the price scale
• Foundations needed
• Building regs approval required

5. SIPs structures

Structural insulated panels – or SIPs – are increasingly being used for garden offices, both modular and fully-bespoke. They are made of a double layer of oriented strand board (OSB3) with a solid insulation core, and offer fantastic thermal properties and speedy build times.

Beth Boulton, marketing director at Eurocell, explains how a modular SIPs garden office is constructed. "SIPs are rigid insulated panels that form the walls, roof and floor of the structure, maximising thermal efficiency. The exterior is typically finished in composite resin cladding, which lasts significantly longer than traditional timber alternatives – up to three times longer according to research. It also requires far less upkeep over that lifespan."

"What really decides whether a garden office works in winter is the build-up of the walls, floor and roof," explains Peter Barr. "With SIPs you're starting from a shell that's already strong and well-insulated, rather than bolting performance onto a frame afterwards."

There are basic SIPs flat pack kits available, designed for DIY installation, which start from around £5,000, or companies specialising in bespoke builds using this system.

Pros:

• Very thermally efficient
• Quick to construct
• Bespoke and flat-pack available

Cons:

• Very airtight so ventilation needs to be addressed to avoid condensation issues
• Can be trickier to assemble for DIYers than timber

6. Steel frame bespoke packages

Steel-framed garden rooms are an increasingly popular option – and for good reason.

Gabrielle Allen explains their benefits. "Because we work with steel frame construction, we have greater flexibility than traditional systems. No two offices we build are ever the same. Clients can customise everything to do with their home office ideas, from the overall size and glazing layout to door positioning, desk locations and even where individual plug sockets and printer points are placed. Every building is completely custom made.

"What surprises many clients is that full customisation does not necessarily mean significantly higher costs," continues Gabrielle. "Our steel-frame garden rooms typically start from around £20,000 depending on size and specification."

Pros:

• Fast installation
• Brilliant structural strength
• Design flexibility thanks to strength-to-weight ratio
• Great for modern offices

Cons:

• More expensive than flat-pack timber and modular offices
• Less thermally efficient than timber so good, breathable insulation required
• If fabricated off-site, access needs to be addressed

FAQs

Which type of garden office adds the most value to a house?

In the majority of cases, a house with a garden office will be really appealing to potential buyers, meaning it is a great way to add value to a home.

"The offices that add the most value are the ones that work as an actual room," explains Peter Barr. "Power, heating, decent glazing, a finish that doesn't look like a basic outbuilding. A buyer can picture using it for whatever they want, which is the whole point."

"The key is the quality of construction, not price tier per se," adds Beth Boulton. "A well-specified self-build kit with proper insulation, double glazing and a durable exterior finish will add more value than a cheaper installed garden room, with poor thermal performance and cladding that deteriorates within a decade. What valuers and prospective buyers look for is whether a garden room functions as a credible additional room, not what it costs.

"Some estimates suggest a properly installed, durable garden room could increase property price by 5–15%, with the uplift most pronounced in urban and commuter-belt areas where internal square footage comes at a premium," adds Beth.

Many people considering building a new room in their garden ask 'can you use a garden room as a bedroom?' While in many cases the answer will be yes, there are some important factors to take into consideration before ploughing ahead. It's the same if you're planning a garden room with a bathroom, so make sure, like me, you do your research before you sign on the dotted line.

The shed at the bottom of the garden has always been a domain of ambition, home to half-finished projects and forgotten hobbies. But post-pandemic, a growing number of homeowners have looked at that neglected square footage and seen something else entirely – a proper place to work.

Converting a shed into an office is genuinely achievable, and when done well, it can give you the separation between home and work life that no spare bedroom ever quite manages. The key, though, is making sure it's done well. A draughty, damp box with an extension lead trailing across the lawn is not a garden office.

In this honest guide, we asked experts what it actually takes to make a shed conversion work, from the roof right down to the floor.

Is your garden shed suitable for a home office?

Start by assessing its condition

Before you start pricing up desks and debating paint colours, it's worth taking an honest look at what you're working with. The condition of your garden shed is the make-or-break question.

"Ideally, you want a good, solid structure," says Mike Storey, Founder of UKFR Roofing & Insulation. "A normal off-the-shelf shed is usually fairly flimsy, so it needs to be a heavy-duty shed – or you can look to reinforce one. You also want treated timber, as it will need to last a long time if you're adding value to it."

Sam Jenkinson, Garden Shed Expert at Tiger Sheds puts it plainly: "Make sure the structure is sound, the floor feels stable and level, and there are no tell-tale signs of leaks, rot or moisture getting in. It's very easy to jump straight to the exciting interior bits, but fixing any structural issues first can save a lot of hassle, time and money later on."

Before any conversion work begins, the exterior needs attention too. "When converting a shed, it's important to ensure that it's watertight and sealed from the weather," says Becky Rackstraw, Director at Protek.

"If any roofing areas or loose or rotten wood need attention, then tackle this first. It may be worth using a stiff brush to remove any old, loose coatings and also remove algae – if needed, use a simple detergent water mix. This process will ensure there are no issues when applying the new product and help it last longer."

Think about size and placement

Size and position both matter more than people expect, but your shed doesn't have to be too spacious to be up to the task of home working. "We tend to find that for one person, a garden office doesn't need to be any larger than 2.4 x 3.0m," says Sarah Rumbles, Design Expert at Crane Garden Buildings. "This size will comfortably fit a good-sized desk, a chair, some storage, and a few personal touches, while providing a peaceful view of your garden."

John Whitney, Director of Eden Landscapes, agrees with Sarah's assessment but cautions against going too small: "We'd suggest a minimum of around 1.8m x 2.5m. That fits a desk, chair and a bit of storage comfortably. If you want a second screen, a printer or room for the odd visitor, go bigger – ideally 3m x 3m or more. People rarely regret sizing up."

The position of your shed in the garden also matters more than most people expect. "It's worth considering how much natural light the building will receive throughout the day," says Sarah. "Too much direct sunlight may make your building too bright to work in effectively, and too shaded may make it feel quite dark. A nice balance will yield the most productive working environment."

John flags a more practical consideration too: "Position matters for how far you'll need to run the power supply. If the office is a fair distance from the house, a Wi-Fi booster or mesh extender sorts the signal out cheaply, and an ethernet cable gives you a fixed connection if you want one."

Insulation, damp-proofing and electrics

There are three key areas that will make or break a shed office – insulation, damp-proofing and electrics – and all three reward proper investment. Get them right and you'll have a workspace that's comfortable year-round. Cut corners and you'll be cold in January, sweltering in July, and calling an electrician to fix something that should have been done properly the first time.

Insulation

Start with insulation. There are plenty of options on the market, but not all are equal. "Most will use PIR insulation board as it's often cheap and easy to find, but this can take up a lot of space," says Mike Storey. "Many of the off-the-shelf options you see on shed websites offer 25mm for the roof and walls, if lucky, but this won't really do anything other than keep a bit more heat in at night."

His recommended thicknesses are significantly more generous: 60-80mm on the walls, 100-120mm on the roof, and 50-75mm on the floor. "You would also want to look at the door and windows, as these are often single-glazed and will also increase the temperature in summer."

Sam Jenkinson reinforces the point: "The walls, roof and floor all need to be considered, as only insulating the walls can still leave the room feeling chilly and uncomfortable in the colder months. Good insulation helps keep the temperature more comfortable, but it can also soften outside noise, which makes a big difference when you're trying to concentrate."

Damp proofing

Damp proofing a shed starts at the top. "The biggest improvement is the roof," says John Whitney. "We'd recommend swapping traditional felt for an EPDM rubber covering. It's far more durable and keeps water out for decades rather than years."

Mike Storey agrees: "Rubber roofing is generally the best for sheds as it's flexible, easy to install, and has a base lifespan of 50 years. Felt is a cheap material that is likely to fail in a short amount of time." This SkyGuard Shed Roof Kit from B&Q is an excellent solution if you're up for the challenge of DIYing this step.

Beyond the roof, John recommends insulating the floor too, which keeps condensation down once the room is in daily use, and sitting the shed on a sound, level base. If you're tackling that step yourself, our guide to building a shed base walks you through it.

Treating the exterior timber matters just as much. Becky Rackstraw advises removing any old coatings before conversion begins and applying at least two coats of a quality wood treatment product, to ensure the building is properly sealed against the weather. Protek's range of shed and fence wood stains are specifically formulated to protect against the damp, rot and weathering that timber buildings are most prone to.

Electrics & internet connection

In a home office of any kind, electrics are non-negotiable and non-DIY. Any electrical installation in a garden building must be carried out by a qualified electrician, with a dedicated circuit and RCD protection. Running power out to a garden room for sockets, lighting and heating counts as notifiable work under Part P of the Building Regulations, so your electrician needs to be registered with a competent person scheme, or the work will need to be signed off by building control.

"It's also helpful to plan the office layout in advance," adds Sarah Rumbles, "particularly where your desk will be positioned, so your garden building installer can place plug sockets and other electrical points in the most convenient locations."

Heating & Ventilation

A well-insulated shed office will hold heat far better than an untreated one, but insulation alone won't keep you comfortable through a British winter. You'll still need a heat source, and electric heating is almost always the most practical answer, since extending your home's central heating out to a garden building rarely justifies the cost and disruption involved.

The simplest option is also the one the experts keep coming back to. "Run electricity to the building and use an electric or oil-filled radiator," says John Whitney. "Oil-filled radiators hold their heat well and are cheap to run in a small, well-insulated room." The only real risk is getting the size wrong, which is where a heat calculator earns its keep.

As Nick Duggan, Director of The Radiator Centre, points out, "a smaller, well-insulated office will need a vastly different heat output to a larger office with bi-fold doors or sliding patio doors," so it's worth doing the sums before you buy rather than guessing.

Ventilation is the piece most people forget. A small, well-insulated room with a laptop running and a heater on will get stuffy quickly, and poor air circulation leads to condensation, which is exactly what you've spent time and money trying to prevent.

An openable window is the minimum; a discreet wall vent, or small mechanical ventilation unit will do the job more reliably in a shed without much natural through-flow.

Suitable heaters for your garden shed home office

Finishing and fitting out your shed home office

Once the structure, services and insulation are sorted, this is the part people tend to enjoy most and it's where a shed stops feeling less like a shed and more like a proper garden office.

Flooring and walls do most of that work. A solid insulated floor covering, such as LVT, makes the space feel significantly more like a room than a garden building, and painted plasterboard or timber cladding over the insulation finishes the job. Becky Rackstraw at Protek puts it simply: "It will feel far more homely and like a room if you consider adding paint in a bright neutral to allow light to bounce around inside."

Office lighting deserves more thought than a single pendant, since natural light shifts considerably through the day, and across the seasons. Task lighting at the desk and ambient light for the rest of the room will cover you better than relying on daylight alone. Storage is worth planning at the same stage, before the rest of the fit-out goes in, since built-in shelving or a simple run of wall-mounted units keeps the floor clear, and stops the space drifting back into its previous life as a dumping ground.

The detail that matters most, though, has nothing to do with paint or shelving. "What shapes the day is what you're looking at," says John Whitney. "Design the interior around the outlook, so your desk faces something you'll enjoy seeing day after day." It's a small thing, but then so is the commute!

FAQs

How much does it cost to convert a shed into a home office?

Costs vary considerably depending on the condition of the shed you're starting with, how much of the work you take on yourself, and how far you want to take the fit-out. As a rough guide, a basic but properly done conversion – insulation, electrics, heating and a painted interior – will typically come in somewhere between £2,000 and £5,000. A more thorough project, with new roofing, flooring, quality finishes and professional installation throughout, can push closer to £8,000 to £10,000.

Do you need planning permission to convert a shed into an office?

"In most cases, no. Garden offices usually fall under permitted development, so no formal application is needed," explains John Whitney.

"The main conditions are that it sits behind the front of your house, is no more than 2.5m high if within 2m of a boundary, covers no more than half the garden, and is used as an office rather than for living in.

"Stricter rules apply to listed buildings and conservation areas" he adds, "so check with your local planning department if you're unsure."

Should you convert a shed or buy a purpose-built garden office?

"A purpose-built garden office is designed from the outset to function as a comfortable, long-term workspace," explains Sarah Rumbles. "It will typically include modern features such as insulation, double glazing, and high-quality construction materials that help ensure durability and year-round usability.

"While converting an existing shed may seem like a cost-effective option, its long-term performance will depend heavily on the age and condition of the original structure," she expands.

"If the building isn't constructed to a high standard, issues such as damp, draughts, or leaks can arise over time. A new garden office will usually come with a manufacturer's guarantee, giving homeowners added peace of mind that both the structure and its internal features are built to last."

Purpose-built garden offices to consider

If you don't have a garden shed you can convert into a home office, but yearn for a separate outdoor work space, find out what building a garden room involves. And, if you're considering making it multi-functional and a potential space for guests to stay, make sure you understand the rules around garden rooms with bedrooms.

Struggling with box blight in your hedges or borders? Or maybe you're looking for precautionary measures to prevent it having seen it break out in neighbouring gardens. It's a common gardeners' woe, but luckily there are a few ways to keep your plot free of this fungal disease.

Many people learn how to grow boxwood as part of their garden design, and for good reason. The evergreen shrub is perfect for low hedging that can distinguish different zones without impeding views through the space. It's perfect for topiary, too, because it's dense with small glossy leaves and can be clipped into a whole host of shapes. It'll thrive in sun or shade as well.

Box blight, however, spoils the timeless look of these shrubs by creating unsightly dead patches. But, there are ways to reduce the risk of this disease taking over. And if yours are already infected, there are things you can do to tackle the spread, too.

How to identify box blight

First things first – you'll need to know how to spot box blight if you have it in your garden. The earlier you catch it, the less damage it can do.

A 'dead patch' is the classic look of box blight, explains Graham Rice, gardening expert and published author. "Branches die back and bare patches appear, creating ugly, dead areas in your hedge or topiary. It attacks small topiary and dwarf hedges more than larger specimen plants or tall hedges.

"Box blight can spread quickly, especially in wet weather," he warns, "and the first sign is leaves turning brown and dropping off. Check the stems, too, as black streaks often appear on younger ones," says Graham.

How to prevent box blight

However you're using box in your garden, be it as plants for garden screening or to hone your topiary skills, then it's well worth knowing how to reduce the risk of box blight.

1. Trim your box shrubs at the right time, in the right way

Monty Don revealed some top tips on caring for box hedges and topiary on his website, which will help prevent blight.

Box needs clipping from time to time to keep it in shape. When you do so, check the weather forecast, says Monty – you'll need a few days of dry weather to do this task. The cut leaves and stems are more susceptible to the box blight fungus when the wounds are fresh, he explains. But, dry weather stops the spores of the fungus from being active, and leaves time for the wounds to scar over so they are less vulnerable to the disease. The start of summer is the time to give your box a trim, he adds.

Don't forget, however, if you are using box for hedges, you'll also need to check the best time to cut hedges, as there are rules and regulations in place to protect wildlife and birds in your garden.

It's also very important to ensure your garden shears or hedge trimmers are really sharp and clean. In fact, it's a good idea to clean your tools between pruning box in different areas of the garden – this helps avoid the risk of accidentally spreading any undetected blight. If you're using borrowed tools that have been used in another garden entirely, this step is imperative. And, once you've trimmed your box, remember to clean up the clippings thoroughly (laying a tarpaulin down first will make this easier).

As an extra safety measure, you may wish to apply a preventative fungicide before and after pruning, especially if you have had to deal with box blight in your garden before. You will usually need to apply it a good few days before you get trimming, and then wait a few days before applying again – check the product's instructions.

Shop these tools for keeping your box plants in good condition

2. Provide plenty of ventilation where possible

Box blight thrives in shady, humid conditions and spreads quickly. So, ensure there is good airflow around your plants – this will help them to dry out quickly after rain. If your box makes up part of your cottage garden ideas, this means keeping an eye on nearby perennials, to make sure they don't start crowding your shrubs.

When it comes to watering plants, a drip irrigation system is best rather than using an 'overhead' approach as this will prevent the leaves from getting wet.

The RHS recommends adding a soft mulch beneath your box as well. This will prevent rain from splashing up onto the leaves and potentially spreading box blight spores. Refresh the mulch occasionally, to keep it disease-free.

3. Quarantine new plants

Box blight can enter your garden via new plants. Because of this, the RHS advises isolating any commercially sourced plants for at least four weeks before planting them, so you can be sure they are disease-free.

As they explain, some nurseries may use fungicides that suppress, but do not kill, the fungus. Quarantining the plants will give you enough time for you to check whether box blight becomes apparent.

Don't forget, you can also take cuttings from box and grow new plants. If you take them from healthy, blight-free plants that are already in your garden, there will be much less risk than bringing in a new plant from elsewhere.

Box blight treatment in 3 simple steps

Already spotted blight? You need these tips on box blight treatment.

1. Cut out infected areas

Box blight needs removing as soon as it's spotted, regardless of the time of year, as long as conditions are dry.

You have a few options. If it's just an isolated area that's affected, you can simply cut this bit out, cleaning your tools well before and after. In more severe cases, you can cut back the shrubs by half, advises Graham Rice. In the worst cases, you can cut the plants right back to ground level, he says. "Box blight does not infect the roots and new shoots will appear."

Alternatively, if you don't want the hassle of trying to save your box, or your attempts at cutting out infected areas seem to be in vain, you can simply dig it up for disposal. Just remember that a new box shouldn't be planted in the same place for a good while, as according to the RHS, spores can remain viable in the surroundings for at least six years.

Whichever approach you go for, Graham adds that tools and footwear should be cleaned afterward, to prevent spreading spores around your garden.

2. Apply a fungicide

As well as cutting back your infected box plants, it's a good idea to apply a fungicide. This can be done both before and after.

Spraying cut-back plants with a product such as Provanto Fungus Fighter Plus from Amazon, which should help stop the spread of the disease.

Fertilising plants can really help them bounce back, and box is no exception. Use a sulfate of potash monthly from mid-spring until early autumn which you sprinkle over the root area and water in.

3. Keep an eye out for further infections

As this fungal disease can spread so quickly, it's important to keep an eye on your plants even after box blight treatment. Unfortunately, it often reoccurs in places it was before, so keep vigilant and be prepared to re-treat where necessary.

What are some good alternatives to box?

If you're looking for an alternative to box for your garden, you might be interested in the trial that RHS Garden Wisley carried out.

It resulted in some top recommendations, including the common yew 'Repandens', Pittosporum 'Collaig Silver', Lonicera nitida 'Maigrun' (which has the benefit of leaves that look very similar to those of box), and Berberis darwinii 'Compacta'.

Other shrubs that make good swaps include Euonymus fortunei, Ilex crenata, and Pittosporum 'Golf Ball'. Graham Rice advises that, "most succeed better as medium to tall hedges than clipped regularly to keep them dwarf."

Alternatively, if quick coverage is your goal, check out the best plants for fast-growing hedges.

Shop alternatives to box

Of course, planting a hedge isn't the only way to create a garden boundary. Take a look at how to decide if a hedge or fence is right for you, and if you do end up choosing a hedge, make sure you understand how high you can grow your hedge when you have neighbours.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

If you've ever arrived home to find your driveway blocked you'll relate to the level of frustration this can cause. But is your front hardstanding, garden or the spot on the street outside your home actually 'yours'?

Although it can feel like someone has infringed on your rights when blocking or using what you believe is your space, there are many common misconceptions about what does and doesn't fall under the jurisdiction of the law.

To help clear up the misconceptions regarding driveways and parking, we spoke with Joe Pepper, partner at Bridge McFarland solicitors to find out what is and isn't legal, and when the problem actually lies with the homeowner, rather than the person parking.

Driveway design vs access

"If you are upgrading the front of your home, adding a hardstanding, or thinking about creating off-street parking, it is easy to assume the law is simple: build a driveway, park on it, and the space on the street in front of it becomes yours. In reality, the legal position is more complicated," explains Joe Pepper.

It's less about what you design and build and more about the access, he continues. "For people carrying out driveway projects, the key issue is not just what you can build on your own land, but how you lawfully get to it from the road.

"This is where pavements, public highways and dropped kerbs become crucial," he says. "Understanding the rules early can help you avoid costly mistakes, neighbour disputes and council enforcement. The Highway Code and the Highways Act 1980 are central to this area.

"One of the most common assumptions we see is people thinking that once you have room for a car on your front garden, you automatically have a legal right to drive across the public pavement and keep the area outside clear. But, that is not usually the case," he warns.

Why? Because the road outside your home and any pavement that forms part of it is actually public highway. You only own the land from your legal boundary to your home.

"This means you also do not own the parking space on the street directly outside your property, even if you regularly use it," explains Joe. "Other drivers can usually park there unless restrictions apply, such as permits, yellow lines or controlled parking rules.

"This matters because a new driveway is only part of the picture," he reiterates. "The real legal protection usually comes from having an authorised dropped kerb, sometimes also called a vehicle crossover."

Why dropped kerbs matter so much

Most homeowners are familiar with the term dropped kerb, but as Joe explains, you really do need to understand why they protect you, but can equally put you at risk if you haven't followed the rules.

As a reminder, a dropped kerb is the lowered section of pavement that allows vehicles to pass between the road and private land. In England and Wales, if you want to drive over the pavement to reach a driveway, you usually need council approval for a dropped kerb.

"The government’s 'Apply for a dropped kerb' service directs homeowners to their local authority, and official guidance explains that a dropped kerb allows vehicles to cross the pavement from the road to a driveway," shares Joe.

But this works two ways.

"A proper vehicle crossover strengthens your legal position because parking across a dropped kerb can attract council enforcement, whereas parking on the street outside a house without one is often treated as ordinary on-street parking," Joe expands.

But, the flip side of that means you could equally be breaking the rules if you haven't got your driveway access right.

"It is illegal to drive over a pavement onto your property without a dropped kerb, because the crossing must be designed to protect the pavement and services below it," warns Joe.

"Even if you have laid a gravel driveway, block paving or a hardstanding on your own land, that does not automatically make it lawful to drive across the pavement to reach it," he continues.

"Local authority guidance consistently states that it is against the law to drive over the public footway without an authorised vehicle crossing, because the pavement and buried services are not designed for that use unless adapted properly.

"So if you are redesigning your front garden to create parking, the legal order is important: first check whether a dropped kerb is possible, then design the parking area around that access," advises Joe.

In a nutshell, without a dropped kerb other drivers are well within their rights to park on the street in front of your driveway, and you have no legal rights to make them move.

Parking rights and when you can complain

So, if your home does have a legal dropped kerb that's been approved by the local authority and someone parks over it, what are your rights?

"The Highway Code says drivers should not park in front of a property entrance or where the kerb has been lowered for access, but the practical force of that guidance is much stronger when the access point is formally recognised," says Joe.

"If someone blocks an authorised dropped kerb, the local authority may be able to issue a Penalty Charge Notice. But, if there is no dropped kerb, your options are usually far more limited," he warns.

However, what all homeowners should remember Joe reinforces, "is that there is no automatic right to the stretch of road outside your property. This can come as a surprise after spending money on landscaping your front garden, paving or widening a front garden," he agrees.

What can you do if you believe someone has parked illegally?

If, however, you've followed all the correct steps, you have a legally approved dropped kerb, your driveway is perfect for everyone in your household to park off-road, and yet someone persists in blocking your entrance. What can you do?

"If you already have an authorised dropped kerb and someone parks across it, contact your local council first, as they may have enforcement powers," advises Joe. "If access is blocked in a way that creates urgency or safety concerns, the police may also become involved," he adds.

But, he also shares some words of caution.

"What you should not do is clamp, tow, block in or damage the other vehicle, as that can create liability for you instead," he reveals.

Make sure that the illegal parking is also obstructive, rather than just bad parking adds Joe. "In practice, obstruction cases are fact-specific," he explains. "A vehicle that stops someone getting safely in or out, blocks emergency access, or obstructs a recognised driveway crossover is more likely to trigger enforcement than a car simply parked near a property."

Simply because someone has parked badly, meaning you maybe have to pay a little more attention to your entrance and exit manoeuvres – perhaps because your driveway size is on the small side – might not be grounds for complaint.

"For people carrying out driveway projects, the main lesson is this: if you want reliable access to a new parking area, you should not rely on informal arrangements," says Joe.

"Get the access approved properly, and if you're considering adding another layer of prevention in the form of purpose-built solutions (such as retractable bollards), remember these are only lawful when installed within your property boundary and with proper permissions," he notes.

How to prevent problems

The key to avoiding parking problems and disputes? Get your facts right from the start, design your driveway accordingly, and don't make assumptions advises Joe.

"Before spending money on a new front-of-house parking scheme, it is worth checking a few basics," he says.

"First, find out whether your council will allow a dropped kerb at your property. Some roads, junctions, visibility lines, trees or street furniture can prevent approval. Second, make sure your planned hardstanding or driveway layout works with the likely crossover position. Third, do not assume that parking on the street outside the house will become private just because you have improved the frontage," Joe advises.

"A smart driveway project is not just about appearance, drainage and materials. It is also about lawful access. If you are planning to create off-street parking, the dropped kerb is often the most important legal step in the whole job. Get that right, and you are in a much stronger position if access is blocked," he explains "Get it wrong, and even a well-built driveway may leave you with no clear parking rights at all."

FAQs

Do the same rules apply on private roads?

While the rules are fairly uniform on adopted highways, the one place it can differ is if your home is located on a private road. If this applies to you, it might be a case of digging out all the documentation you had when buying the house.

"On private roads, the local authority may not be responsible for the surface or parking control," explains Joe. "In those cases, the legal position often depends on ownership of the road in front of your home, and the rights granted in the title deeds.

"The main issues are access rights, parking rights and maintenance obligations. A private road does not automatically mean you can alter the verge, install barriers, widen an entrance or create a new access point. If you only have a right of way over the road, that usually allows use, not unilateral alteration," he expands.

"In short, if your project involves a private road, do not assume the usual public highway rules will help," he warns. But as with your driveway plans on an adopted road, do your research first. "Check the title, any rights or estate regulations and who has authority to approve changes," says Joe.

Can I put something on the road to block people from parking in my spot?

We've all seen strategically placed wheelie bins, and even cones in the road outside homes where parking is limited, or regularly causing issues, but is this legal?

"Usually not," says Joe. "The highway is public, so placing objects on the road or pavement to reserve space can itself amount to obstruction. Bins, cones and homemade barriers may feel practical, but they can create legal problems of their own.

"If you want physical measures such as bollards or driveway gates, they should normally be installed within your own boundary and only after checking that they do not interfere with lawful access or any required approvals," he continues.

Rather than preventing parking, it could end up with you being the one who is in trouble rather than the person who has inconveniently decided that the unofficial parking space on the road outside your home suits them better.

If I pave my front garden to create a driveway does this require planning permission?

"This is another point that often catches homeowners out," says Joe. "In England, you will not usually need driveway planning permission for a new or replacement driveway at the front of a house if the surface is permeable, or if rainwater drains to a lawn or border within your property.

"The key threshold is five square metres. If you cover more than five square metres of your front garden with traditional impermeable surfacing and the water does not drain to a permeable area within your land, planning permission will normally be required." This is to reduce flood risk and surface water run-off.

"The practical takeaway is simple: if you want to avoid a planning application, think about drainage at the design stage,' says Joe. "Gravel, permeable block systems, resin-bound surfaces designed to drain through, or runoff directed into a border or soakaway can all make the difference," says Joe, but warns against making one other common mistake.

"Remember, these planning rules are separate from dropped kerb approval. You may have a driveway design that works in planning terms but still need highway consent to get a lawful access across the pavement," he explains.

In conclusion, "parking outside residential properties is an area where legal perception often differs from reality," agrees Joe. "While homeowners understandably view the space on the street outside their property as 'theirs', the law generally treats it as part of the shared public highway.

"The single most important distinction is whether a property has a properly authorised dropped kerb leading to a driveway. Without one, enforcing rights over parking is extremely limited. With one, there is at least a degree of formal protection.

"As disputes become more common with increasing car ownership, understanding these legal boundaries can help avoid unnecessary conflict – and costly mistakes," he advises.

One final point you may also need to consider when looking at your driveway plans? The proposed changes to rules regarding EV charging at home. If you were only considering one to make using an EV charger simpler, you may no longer need to.

Although you will of course need to ask yourself if that will add another problematic layer. If you don't have a dropped kerb and someone parks in your space, you may find yourself not able to charge your new electric car.

There's something undeniably appealing about showering outside. The open sky, the garden air, the feeling that you've somehow turned your back garden into a boutique retreat. And it's an indulgence that's become increasingly easy to achieve, and increasingly hard to resist.

From barely-there wall-mounted designs to dramatic freestanding stone columns, outdoor showers have come a long way from the basic poolside rinse.

Whether you're installing an outdoor shower from scratch or looking for inspiration to elevate your existing design, these are the ideas worth bookmarking.

1. Use earthy, handmade tiles to root your shower in the garden

Forget anything too glossy or pristine. The outdoor tile ideas that work best are the ones that look like they've been beautifully weathering away for years, somewhere between the colour of a biscuit and a piece of driftwood, with just enough wobble in the glaze to prove an artisan made them.

"There is a big appetite for natural, earthy tones that sit happily with timber, planting and stone," explains Lesley Taylor, Founder of Baked Tiles. "People want the shower to feel part of the garden, not like a bathroom wall that has wandered outside by mistake."

Texture matters just as much as colour here. "Limestone, sandstone, travertine-style finishes, earthy tones and tiles with a slightly imperfect edge all work beautifully because they do not feel too polished or precious outside," says Grazzie Wilson, Head of Creative at Ca' Pietra.

It's a look built for longevity too: "The aim is to create something that feels inviting in high summer, but still has enough substance to sit beautifully in the garden once the towels and sunshine have been packed away," adds Grazzie.

2. Go ultra-modern with a sleek freestanding shower

Against a backdrop this moody, a fussy shower would only get in the way. Instead, a slim stainless-steel shower column looks less like plumbing and more like a modern garden sculpture.

The contrast is what makes this work so well. Rugged stone or dark brick behind it makes the polished metal practically glow, while the integrated shower tray means no separate paving slab or drainage is required because it's all baked into the design from the start.

3. Install a shower in a private outdoor nook

Sometimes the best spot for an outdoor shower isn't one you build, it's one you already have. An old outbuilding recess or the gap between two walls can make a naturally sheltered little shower room, and tiling it floor to ceiling in a rich, glossy colour turns a leftover bit of garden into a secret spa. Here, deep emerald zellige tiles against pale Cotswold stone do exactly that, with brass pipework running down the wall.

A few low-effort additions finish the look, such as a reclaimed timber hook for towels, a wobbly little stool for soap and shampoo, and roses left to scramble up the stonework outside. The result feels properly tucked away, both visually and literally, the kind of corner you'd happily disappear into for 20 minutes with nobody any the wiser.

4. Go wall-to-wall with tiles for a spa-like enclosure

There's a particular kind of magic in stepping into a fully tiled, open-roofed space and finding nothing but sky above you. Three walls and a roofless ceiling is all it takes to turn this outdoor shower into a private boutique moment, and warm, square zellige-style tiles are the perfect material for the job.

"For a spa-like feel, I would lean into softly tonal porcelain, warm neutrals, gentle stone effects or tiles with a subtle surface variation that catch the light without shouting for attention," says Grazzie Wilson. "It should feel calm, cocooning and a little bit indulgent – almost like a tucked-away retreat at the bottom of the garden."

If you want to recreate that spa-like bathroom feeling outdoors, this is how. It takes more planning than a simple wall-mounted shower, but the payoff is somewhere that feels yours, whatever the season.

5. Consider excess runoff when designing your shower

It's easy to obsess over the shower itself and forget about the ground beneath it, but that little patch of floor is doing a lot of work. Here, a simple timber duckboard set into the paving lets water drain straight through underfoot, keeping the surrounding concrete and gravel dry rather than turning into a permanent puddle.

But what happens underneath matters too. "In some cases, simple drainage into gravel, soakaways, or permeable ground may be acceptable for occasional use, particularly with cold water only," explains Tony Wells, plumbing expert at Bathroom Spare Parts. But if soap and shampoo are part of the routine, his advice is to think bigger: "It's advisable to connect drainage into the foul water system rather than allowing wastewater to flow directly into the garden."

It's a detail that costs little to plan for at the outset and saves a lot of regret later. As Tony puts it, treating an outdoor shower "like a proper plumbing project rather than just a garden accessory" is what makes the difference between a feature that lasts and one that causes problems for years.

6. Give some thought to your floor tiles

Here's a fact nobody tells you when you're installing an outdoor shower: the floor matters much more than the walls. Everyone obsesses over the tile at eye level, but it's the one underfoot, slick with water and bare feet, that decides whether your swimming pool shower is a triumph or a hazard.

"When it comes to tiles for an outdoor shower, the first thing to think about is what is happening underfoot, because bare feet, water and the great British weather need a tile that can cope with the lot," says Grazzie Wilson from Ca' Pietra. "Look for something with proper grip, ideally an outdoor tile with an R11 slip rating, and make sure the material is suitable for exterior use, such as frost-resistant porcelain or a suitably finished natural stone."

Thankfully, grippy doesn't have to mean grim. Textured, stone-effect porcelain and honed natural stone both look the part, and many ranges now pair a slip-rated floor tile with a smoother wall version in the same colourway.

7. Embrace natural stone finishes for added 'wow' factor

If you want your shower to look like it belongs in a boutique hotel rather than a garden centre, the secret is usually in the slab.

A great slice of marble-effect stone, all swirling greys and golds, does more for an outdoor shower than any amount of fancy hardware ever could. Pair it with matt black fittings and the whole thing reads as expensive, even if the rest of the garden is still a work in progress.

8. Make a shower statement with deep, saturated coloured tiles

Some outdoor showers try to disappear into the garden. This one does the opposite, and it works brilliantly. A single wall in a deep, confident colour – think ink blue, bottle green or sun-baked terracotta – holds its own against even the wildest planting, especially when ferns and foliage are left to spill in around the edges.

"Homeowners are definitely getting braver with outdoor showers," says Lesley Taylor from Baked Tiles. "We are seeing a move away from the purely practical rinse-off zone and towards spaces that feel like a proper design moment, whether that is a tiled backdrop in a rich green, a sun-baked terracotta shade, or a handmade-look tile that feels relaxed rather than perfect."

9. Lean into a bold decorative pattern

When choosing tiles for your shower, be sure to give some thought to how they're laid. A basket-weave or geometric tile pattern, mixing two or three tones such as deep navy, olive and ochre, is a brilliant way to turn a simple tiled wall into something closer to artwork.

The trick is scale. A pattern like this could easily overwhelm an entire facade, but confined to one narrow shower wall it feels like a deliberate flourish rather than a lot to look at. It's a brilliant way to make a small shower feel like the most thought-through corner of the garden.

One tip before you commit: get your tiler to lay out a sample panel first. Pattern repeats shift depending on tile size and grout width, and the difference between "intentional" and "slightly wonky" often comes down to a few millimetres.

10. Build a sheltered timber retreat for beachy vibes

There's something about a timber-framed shower with a roof overhead that instantly conjures a beach hut or holiday villa, even in a British garden. Weathered or reclaimed timber slats provide an instantly relaxed, sun-bleached look, and provide shelter and privacy from both rain and prying eyes.

Try pairing pale, aged wood with copper or brass fittings for a coastal feel that doesn't tip into pastiche, and add a timber shelf for soap and towels to make it feel like a proper little outdoor room.

Want to take your outdoor set-up a step further? Consider teaming your outdoor shower with a garden sauna too for one of this year's hottest garden trends.

11. Treat your shower as a freestanding garden feature

Not every outdoor shower needs to be fixed to a garden wall. A freestanding column, especially one in a striking stone or marble-effect material, can work as a sculptural feature in its own right, standing in a lawn or border much like a piece of garden art.

Choose a material with enough presence to hold its own among planting; a bold, veined stone in a warm terracotta or rust tone reads as deliberate, especially set against greenery, where the stone itself becomes the focal point.

Freestanding showers also offer more flexibility than wall-mounted ones, since they're not tied to an existing structure for plumbing and can go wherever makes sense.

12. Mix-up your outdoor shower materials to add rustic charm

In this gorgeous shower setup by Marlborough Tiles nothing matches perfectly, and that's precisely the point. This look thrives on age and texture.

A reclaimed scaffold board or weathered fence post as the central spine, glazed brick tiles in a deep green running up one side, and trailing planting allowed to creep in at will, all conspire to make the shower look like it's been part of the garden for decades, even if the tiles went in last weekend!

13. Add a shower to a designated hot tub zone

If you've already carved out a designated spot for a hot tub, you've basically done the hard work for an outdoor shower too. Tucking a shower into the same corner means rinsing off before (or after) a soak without trekking back to the house, and it instantly makes the whole area feel like a proper wellness zone rather than just "the bit of the garden with the hot tub in it".

Tiling the shower walls in the same finish as the hot tub surround – here, a rich glossy green – ties the two zones together visually, while a built-in bench with cushions adds somewhere to sit and dry off.

It's also worth considering hot tub privacy from the outset. A corner position, backed by a wall and softened with planting, is a natural screening idea that hides both the tub and shower from view.

If these ideas have got you thinking about inside too, our guides to choosing a shower and the best bathroom ideas are a good place to start.

Having your own space to park your vehicles, right in front of your house, makes life so much easier, not just in terms of giving you somewhere to keep them safe, but also when it comes to everyday activities such as unloading shopping and getting young children in and out of the car.

That said, getting your driveway ideas right can be tricky, particularly if you are working with a small space or one that is sloping. Even a small gradient can feel like it adds complications.

To help you work out how best to navigate a sloping driveway we've pulled together a collection of ideas using a range of materials and design techniques – proof that a slope needn't stand in the way of a stylish approach.

1. Use specialist grids to keep gravel in place

Keeping gravel in place on a driveway can always be a challenge, but it needn't be if you address the sub-base properly.

Firstly, if gravel driveway ideas are high on your wish list, strongly consider using a gravel grid. These are made up of cells, the size of which varies from product to product, and are designed to hold the gravel within these cells to prevent it from moving.

Bear in mind too that gravel size matters – very small stones are more likely to move than larger ones, as Zaeem Chaudhary, director and chartered architectural technologist (MCIAT) at ac design solutions explains. "Loose gravel migrates downhill – it might be cheap upfront, but it is expensive long-term. Pea gravel is worse still on anything steeper than a gentle incline."

2. Use steps to access a front door with ease

Sloping driveways come with a number of potential issues – one of them being how easy they will be to walk up, particularly in wet or icy weather.

When developing your driveway design, give proper consideration to how you will access your front door from the driveway, no matter what the weather. Steps can be a brilliant addition here, rather than having to traipse up a steep incline.

Do bear in mind too that, in some cases, even with the best approaches, some driveways will just be too steep to work with and may require levelling.

Zaeem Chaudhary explains. "UK regulations set a maximum driveway gradient of 1:6. In practice, I'd be cautious well before that. A 1:20 (5%) gradient is ideal for residential driveways – smooth access, minimal drainage issues. Once you exceed 1:10 (10%), traction becomes a real concern in wet or icy conditions, and proper transition lengths at the top and bottom are needed to prevent vehicles grounding."

3. Take care when choosing and laying block paving

While block paving has an awful going for it, it is not always the best option for heavily sloping driveways.

"Block paving can shift over time on steep gradients and sheds water over the surface rather than through it, so drainage engineering becomes more complex and costly," points out Zaeem Chaudhary.

That said, researching how to lay block paving properly will go a long way to lessening the chance of this happening, as will choosing porous blocks that allow water through rather than causing it to pool on the surface.

4. Don't forget to consider proper drainage

Driveway drainage always needs to be assessed and implemented with care but, when it comes to sloping accesses it becomes more important than ever to get this element right. Choosing a permeable surface and putting proper drainage systems in place is non-negotiable here.

"Water accelerates on a slope," explains Zaeem Chaudhary. "A permeable surface is always preferable – it deals with run-off at source. Where an impermeable surface is used, ACO channel drains and a properly designed driveway soakaway are essential – not optional.

"Make sure you specify a minimum 150mm compacted sub-base and bear in mind that steep slopes often require deeper," continues Zaeem. "Get drainage wrong and you'll face erosion, pooling and potential liability if water reaches the highway."

5. Keep things neat and tidy with a resin finish

Resin driveways are becoming increasingly popular – and for good reason. By combining natural stone aggregates with resin, you can enjoy the look of gravel without any of the hassle involved with keeping it in place. While resin driveway costs are higher than gravel, their low-maintenance requirements make up for this.

"Resin bound is my first recommendation," picks up Zaeem Chaudhary. "Its porous structure lets rainwater drain through rather than run downhill, and the textured finish provides grip for both vehicles and pedestrians. It's also SuDS-compliant, which matters for planning."

It is important to note that resin bound driveways are different from resin bonded, which are not permeable, and tend not to last as long.

6. Tick the planning boxes with SuDS compliant materials

While planning permission for driveways is often not required, this does depend on the size of the area in question, as well as the materials you use to finish it off.

Providing your driveway is less than 5m², you should not need permission but, if it is any larger than this you will – unless, that is, it is SuDS compliant. Using permeable materials is the easiest way to ensure this.

Permeable block paving, gravel, resin bound gravel or even porous asphalt are all great options that not only mean planning permission won't be needed but also that your sloping driveway won't become slippery in wet and cold weather.

7. Don't discount tarmac too quickly

In the world of driveway materials, tarmac is often viewed as one of the least attractive options, yet there are lots of ways to improve its appearance and it can be a highly practical choice for homes on sloping sites.

"Tarmac is a solid second choice after resin bound – flexible enough to handle freeze-thaw cycles without cracking," advises Zaeem Chaudhary. "I'd specify a textured finish rather than smooth."

While tarmac can, when used over very large areas, look a little bland, combining it with other types of surfaces and softening the whole thing with plenty of planting and lighting will really help.

8. Boost kerb appeal with lighting

A sloping driveway can actually look far more interesting that one that is completely level, allowing for all kinds of creative approaches that will really bring the exterior of your house to life. Your driveway lighting ideas can totally transform this kind of space.

"I recommend using brick LED lights staggered on both sides if the driveway has a wall on either side that these can be fixed to," picks up Alina Enache, co-founder of Lamp Genius. "This will provide a low-glare but highly pinpointed light all the way down the drive.

"For open sloped driveways, I recommend using bollard or post lights," she continues. "However, there are a few details to note. If the fixture requires a concrete base, you will need to build a level base for each light, all the way down the slope. If this is not possible, look for a light fixture that has a spike or ground fixing base that is suitable for soil. That said, concrete is always a better long-term solution if possible, especially if the area is highly exposed to wind."

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FAQs

What are the worst materials for a sloping driveway?

Some materials just won't perform as well as others when it comes to sloping driveways – even if you are after cheap driveway ideas, you can still find something that performs well and looks great.

Avoid loose gravel and be very wary of anything non-porous that won't allow excess water to drain through – otherwise your driveway could end up behaving like a waterfall in very wet weather.

Zaeem Chaudhary also points out the need to consider the non-slip properties of a surface material. "Smooth or polished concrete is a slip hazard in wet or icy conditions."

Just because your driveway is sloping, there is no need to let your driveway costs spiral – there are plenty of budget options out there for even the steepest of approaches. Make sure you also consider these driveway security ideas that can enhance your overall home security.

With summer in full bloom, many homeowners are looking for ways to improve their gardens – whether that’s adding extra privacy with a new fence or installing a summer house for outdoor entertaining.

However, despite these projects being small, some of them will require planning permission, and failure to do so could result in legal action being taken against you with unlimited fines.

To help you avoid unwanted (and unexpected) charges, we’ve explained the most common outdoor changes that need planning permission, according to legal and gardening experts.

1. Cutting or pruning a protected tree

You might think that any tree in your own garden is fair game to trim or cut down, but according to Joe Pepper, Partner at Bridge McFarland, that is certainly not the case.

You may need consent from the local planning authority if the tree is protected by a Tree Preservation Order (TPO) or stands in a conservation area – otherwise, it could be a criminal offence under the Town and Country Planning Act 1990. This could result in an unlimited fine and the requirement for replacement planting.

"There is another point homeowners often miss: some trees were planted to satisfy a planning condition attached to the property. Removing one of those trees can trigger planning enforcement and if the council serves a notice that is then ignored, prosecution and fines may follow," Joe adds.

"That risk does not always disappear when a property changes hands. If you buy a home where protected trees have already been removed, you may still inherit obligations to replant or deal with an existing breach."

2. Installing decking too high

Want to install raised decking more than 30cm above ground level? You may need to get planning permission, warns Joe Pepper. The same will also apply where outbuildings and structures together cover more than 50% of the garden around the house.

"If the work goes ahead without it, the local authority can treat it as a breach of planning control and require the deck to be altered or removed," he says. "There may not be an immediate fine simply because the decking has been built but ignoring an enforcement notice can lead to prosecution and an unlimited fine."

"There are also strict safety standards covering features such as railings and balustrades. Openings between railings must be small enough to stop a 100mm sphere passing through, and any balustrade bordering a drop of at least 600mm must stand a minimum of 900mm high," adds Helen Godsiff, Brand Manager at Eurocell.

3. Burning garden waste irresponsibly

Burning garden waste can lead to legal action if it becomes a nuisance to neighbours or creates a health risk. With that in mind, Joe Pepper says to avoid putting damp waste, treated timber or plastic on the bonfire.

"Councils have powers under the Environmental Protection Act 1990 to investigate and serve abatement notices and breaching one is a criminal offence," he explains. "If smoke is persistent or particularly serious, a homeowner can face a fine and further penalties if the problem continues."

4. Building a garden room without permission

Garden rooms are a fantastic outdoor feature, but if they exceed the allowed height, footprint, location and proximity to boundaries, or have the wrong intended use, planning permission may be required before it is installed.

"If the structure goes beyond what is allowed for permitted development and no planning permission has been obtained, the council may require a retrospective application and if permission is not granted, the building may have to be altered or removed," explains Joe Pepper.

If the enforcement notice is ignored, Joe says you could be prosecuted and given an unlimited fine, so it's worth looking into.

Another thing to keep in mind is whether your garden room is built over a public sewer (or too close to one). If that's the case, "consent from the relevant water company may be needed; often by way of a build-over agreement." The same applies to raised decking.

5. Installing a fence too high

When it comes to designing a garden, privacy is often a top priority for homeowners, which is why some people want their fences as tall as possible. However, any fence, wall, or gate above two metres (or one metre if it's next to a highway used by vehicles) may need planning permission.

While Joe Pepper says you'll likely face planning enforcement rather than an immediate penalty, you'll still need to reduce the height or remove it which can be expensive. If you don't comply with these fence rules, you could face an unlimited fine or even prosecution.

Joe Pepper concludes, "A quick check with the local planning authority before work starts is usually far cheaper than dealing with enforcement after the event."

Found this helpful? You may also want to read our guide on when you need planning permission for decking and garden wall building regulations.

In these times of extreme weather and extended drought, drip irrigation systems enable us to manage how we water our choice of garden plants.

Increased water restrictions are not going away and, in years to come, the liberal use of garden hosepipes and sprinklers will be frowned upon as an extravagance. So, the conscious and effective watering offered by drip irrigation systems is sure to become more widely used.

But what exactly is drip irrigation and how can you make use of it when watering plants in your garden landscaping to save water, and keep your garden alive in periods of drought? We explain all.

What are drip irrigation systems?

Drip irrigation is a watering method that has been used in commercial agriculture and horticulture for years. It gets water directly to young plants in an economic and targeted fashion, at the best time to water plants, with as little waste as possible.

Edward Cantle, an expert from Gardena explains: "Drip irrigation systems offer a great alternative to conventional watering methods, such as a garden hose.

"They work by gradually drip-feeding water directly next to the plant, which allows the water to penetrate the soil right down to the roots, saving up to 70% water consumption, compared to standard irrigation systems." He adds that this also promotes plant health, by leaving them less susceptible to disease.

How do drip irrigation systems work?

By laying a system of pipes and small drippers through planting areas in your garden, the water can be fed directly to the roots of the plants.

They take advantage of the natural capillary action in the soil and allow moisture to be absorbed by the roots as needed, with less evaporation from the surface.

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Are drip irrigation systems simple to install?

Sean Lade from specialist supplier Easy Garden Irrigation describes how most systems are installed: "First, there’s a connection to a garden tap and from there you run a half-inch supply pipe that basically acts like a motorway to carry water around the garden, past all the plants you want to water. Then you spur off into micro-size pipes, ¼ inch thick, that reach to the plants themselves and then a drip emitter regulates the release of the water."

It’s usually recommended that you use one distributor per plant, which works well for garden planters and smaller areas – although you can share one emitter among a smaller grouping of plants. For larger areas, a drip line is recommended with built-in emitters along the length of the pipe.

What are the advantages of drip irrigation?

Because the water is delivered exactly where it needs to go, you use less and waste less – perfect if you're looking for water saving methods. As the experts at Water Irrigation point out, "water is delivered with pinpoint accuracy directly to the root zone of the plant. This minimises wastage and weed growth in the surrounding areas of the plant."

For example, a system with 50 drippers used twice a day for 30 minutes will save up to 70% of water compared to a sprinkler or soaker hose. And for this reason, in many areas, drip irrigation systems are permitted even in times of official drought and hosepipe bans – although you should always double-check with your local provider.

"As water application is slow and controlled by each emitter, the water has time to soak into the soil preventing surface runoff," Water Irrigation adds.

It is important to use a timer with your system. This means you can water first thing in the morning, so you'll get the most out of your watering at the coolest time of day without getting out of bed. Plus, you don’t have to remember to turn off the system. And drip irrigation systems are ideal for watering everything from patio plants to your favourite screening plants while you are away on holiday too.

What are the disadvantages of drip irrigation systems?

The key disadvantage is the time it takes to lay out the system. And, some people might not like seeing the tubes, pipes, and kit on view. But there are ways to disguise the pipes.

They are great for gardens of all sizes, but for larger plots, you might well need some professional help to make sure your watering circuit is working to maximum effectiveness.

Are drip irrigation kits easy to use?

Drip irrigation is becoming increasingly popular with home gardeners because it’s an effective way of watering the garden. The new kits on the market are much easier to install and work for containers and pots as well as larger flower beds.

We’ve come a long way from the days of ‘leaky hose’ watering pipes that effectively sweat out water unevenly across a planting area.

And if you only have a compact courtyard garden or balcony, a smaller system, such as the Gardena Balcony Irrigation Set from Amazon would be more than enough to keep your potted plants well watered.

Other great water-saving methods include rain chains and water butts. These are great ways to harvest rainwater if you prefer watering your plants with rainwater.

FAQs

Should you bury drip irrigation systems?

You definitely should not put your pipes and drip emitters under the soil – if you bury the system, you run the risk of damaging the pipes if you can’t see them.

"You can easily put a spade through the pipe," says Sean Lade from Easy Garden Irrigation. "But you can hide them with a layer of mulch or bark chippings, which will make it more efficient and help to retain moisture in the soil."

Can you make a drip irrigation system yourself?

There are many different kits available with parts that you can scale up or down according to the size of your garden, and most good suppliers offer great advice and customer service. Price-wise, drip irrigation kits at Amazon start at around £25 at the lower end of the price scale.

As with the garden sprinklers, most drip irrigation kits can be added to and expanded as required, and with good maintenance and regular checks, they have a lifespan of between 10-15 years.

Watering our plants and gardens is essential to ensure good, healthy growth, but it’s also vital to manage our watering to minimise the amount we use.

If you’re not sure about investing in a kit for your whole garden design, you could try one of the smaller-scale setups to keep your pots watered while you’re on holiday. That way, you won’t have to rely on friends and neighbours to keep your plants healthy.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

By planting a lavender hedge you can create a defined area within a garden, add a soft border to paths and walkways and attract plenty of beneficial bees and pollinators. Low growing, this is a hedge which will not get out of hand or cause neighbourly disputes. It is easy to care for and with just a little attention, it will last for years.

Lavender is a stalwart of the classic cottage garden, but it fits all styles, from Mediterranean gravel spaces to chic urban courtyards. It has a long flowering period, from around June to September, and the fragrant foliage keeps its colour year-round, even when the plant is dormant over winter.

All you need if you want to plant a lavender hedge in your garden is a sunny spot and our simple lavender growing tips for success.

How to plant a lavender hedge

1. Fork over the soil in the area of your garden landscaping where you want to create the hedge. Space the plants about 30cm apart (or 45cm for larger species, check the plant label for height and spread). If the soil is heavy, incorporate plenty of horticultural grit before planting.
2. Dig a hole which is just a bit larger than the plant’s root ball.
3. Take the plant out of its pot and place in the soil. Fill the gap, and then firm around the base.
4. Water in thoroughly, aiming for the roots, not the foliage. After planting, keep watered regularly in dry weather for the first growing season. After that, it should look after itself. Usually, lavender does not need feeding. You could do it just occasionally using an all-purpose feed to improve the overall health of the plants, but it is not essential.

Lavender hedge planting essentials

When is the best time to plant a lavender hedge?

Although the autumn and winter months are a good time to start planning your lavender hedges and thinking about what sort of plants you want to include in your design, you need to wait until the soil has warmed up before you can plant them.

In the UK, this can be any time from mid-April until the end of July. If it is a cold spring, it's best to wait to plant until May. Lavender roots will grow much more quickly in warm soil.

What's the best lavender for a lavender hedge?

English lavender is the most robust and long-lived. This hardy perennial has tiny flowers on grey/green stems.

French lavender, which has tufty top petals that look like a butterfly’s wings, is less hardy, so unless your chosen spot for a hedge is extremely sheltered, it is best to go for an English variety.

There are more than 250 English lavenders, and these include dwarf plants, which won’t grow taller than 30cm. Lavender 'Dwarf Blue' (available from Thompson & Morgan) and ‘Miss Muffet’ are two examples.

Larger, bushier choices for bigger gardens include Lavendula Intermedia ‘Grosso’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) which tops 1m in height and spread.

Lavenders don’t just come in blue either. You can go for white, misty purple or even pink too!

Lavender varieties to plant in your hedge

Where should I plant a lavender hedge?

Good drainage is the key to success with lavender. As a Mediterranean garden plant, it will not thrive in damp or heavy, soggy soil, so a well-drained site is a must.

Choose a sunny spot and your lavender hedge should thrive in the right conditions. It's a great choice for low-maintenance gardens as once established your lavender hedge should require very little watering or care.

If you don't have the right type of soil or conditions in your garden, another option is to plant lavender in a series of garden planters to mimic the effect of a hedge. This will allow you to have more control of the soil in which your lavender is planted.

When should I prune a lavender hedge? 

English lavender should be pruned twice a year to keep the hedge bushy and compact. This will stop leggy brown stems appearing. When the flowers have faded in late summer or early autumn, trim them off with a pair of secateurs. These Spear & Jackson bypass secateurs are highly rated on Amazon.

Then cut about 2.5cm from the plant’s leaves, making sure that some green stays on. This lets light into the plant and enables new shoots to form before the lavender becomes dormant over winter.

In late February or in early March if it has been a cold month, trim the lavender plants lightly again using a pair of sharp garden shears.

Whether you want to plant a lavender hedge as a garden screening idea or simply want a natural way to zone different areas of your plot, this pretty scented plant is a classic choice.

Growing trees in pots is another good option if you're looking to break up a space and create additional privacy.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

With the rise in popularity of cold plunges, home saunas and hot tubs, it's clear that garden wellness is having quite the moment. Outdoor showers are the latest addition to the wishlist, with Google searches hitting an all-time high in 2026, and an increasing number of ambitious homeowners factoring them into their garden design plans from the outset.

The appeal is simple: outdoor showers look beautiful, come into their own during summer, and bring a touch of boutique-hotel glamour to even the drizzliest of British gardens.

But there's more involved than simply crewing a showerhead to a fence post and hoping for the best. From plumbing and drainage, to planning rules and winterising, here's everything you need to know before installing an outdoor shower.

When is it best to install one?

The idea that an outdoor shower only works somewhere hot is something of a myth, meaning you don't need to wait for a few years of good summers before you install one. John Pearce, co-director at Oltco, sees the demand for these garden features growing steadily.

"Outdoor showers are becoming increasingly popular in UK homes as more homeowners look to create spa-inspired outdoor spaces that combine practicality with design," he says. "Whether positioned alongside hot tubs, swimming pools or simply as part of a luxury garden scheme, outdoor showers can work incredibly well in the British climate when the right materials and drainage solutions are considered from the outset."

The key phrase here is from the outset. An outdoor shower that's been properly planned, with thought given to shelter, drainage, pipework, and surface materials, will perform very differently to one that's been bolted on as an afterthought.

Get those fundamentals right, and the great British weather becomes a manageable inconvenience rather than a deal-breaker.

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How to get the plumbing and water supply right

Before anything else, when installing an outdoor shower, you need to decide how you're going to use your outdoor shower, because that decision will shape everything that follows.

Lee Saunders, Head of Design at Drench, puts it simply. "For a lot of people, a simple cold-water rinse is all they need. These basic setups can often connect directly to an existing outdoor tap using a standard garden hose, making them an incredibly easy and affordable option for cooling down during the summer months."

But, for a more permanent installation with reliable hot water, the picture changes. "The plumbing becomes much more involved," Lee explains, "often requiring insulated hot and cold water pipework to be extended externally from the house."

Andy Ellis, Managing Director of Vidalux, agrees that a hot and cold balance is achievable for most UK homeowners, but the execution needs thought. "For a shower that's going to be satisfying you need a stable water pressure between 1.5 bar and 3.0 bar, but if you're going to be connecting to an outdoor tap, pressure will drop significantly the further down the garden you go."

There's also a less obvious safety risk to be aware of. "A common and dangerous mistake people often make is leaving exposed plastic water supply pipes across the garden," Andy warns. "On hot summer days the sun bakes the stagnant water inside these pipes and raises the temperature to dangerous levels. This creates the perfect breeding ground for bacteria, but can also cause scalding when the shower is turned on. Supply lines must be shielded or buried to avoid this."

On the pipework itself, Andy recommends MDPE (Medium Density Polyethylene) blue piping for underground runs. "It's tough, handles high pressure, and can handle soil shifting. You can run MDPE pipes up to 50 metres or more across a garden without major pressure loss, provided your starting mains pressure is healthy and you use a consistent pipe diameter, such as 20mm or 25mm," he says.

On the question of DIY versus professional installation, Andy is direct about where the line sits.

"Competent DIYers should be able to comfortably handle digging trenches, laying the MDPE pipe, and assembling compression joints, but tapping into the property's main internal water system, installing mandatory non-return check valves to prevent garden water backflowing into the drinking supply, or adding any electrical pumps requires a qualified professional," he says.

What about drainage?

If plumbing is the decision most homeowners think about first, drainage is the one thing they most often wish they'd thought about sooner. "In my experience, drainage is one of the most overlooked aspects of installing an outdoor shower," says Lee Saunders.

"You cannot usually rely on water simply draining freely onto your lawn or patio, especially with regular use. Repeated water exposure will eventually lead to issues with surface water, such as waterlogging and slippery surfaces, as well as potential damage to your surrounding landscaping."

The right solution depends on how the shower will be used – and, crucially, what you'll be using it for. UK building regulations state that water can only drain into the ground if it's completely pure, so if you plan to use soaps or shampoos, that water is legally classified as greywater, and cannot be allowed to run into natural watercourses.

Andy Ellis is clear on what that means in practice: it needs to be connected directly to the household foul water sewer system. For those using the shower purely for a quick rinse after a swim or sauna, a gravel soakaway is perfectly fine, but Andy advises siting it at least five metres from the main building,or any outbuildings to prevent localised flooding or structural subsidence over time.

The surface around the shower is also worth considering. John Pearce makes the case for permeable resin-bound surfacing, which allows water to drain naturally through the surface rather than pooling underneath. "This helps minimise standing water, reduces slip risks and keeps the area cleaner and more functional throughout the year," he explains.

What materials work best for an outdoor shower?

The UK climate is hard on outdoor fixtures, and outdoor showers are no exception. Rain, frost, UV exposure and fluctuating temperatures mean that material choices matter more here than almost anywhere else in the home. Lee Saunders is clear on what holds up best. "Marine-grade metals, treated timber and weather-resistant fittings are usually the best choice, as cheaper materials can corrode or deteriorate quickly in British weather conditions," he advises.

Outdoor tiles are one of the most popular choices for finishing a garden shower, but before you get carried away with mood-boards, Grazzie Wilson, head of creative at Ca' Pietra, says it's important to get the spec right.

"Look for something with proper grip, ideally an outdoor tile with an R11 slip rating underfoot, and make sure the material is suitable for exterior use, such as frost-resistant porcelain or a suitably finished natural stone." On style, Grazzie says tiles with tonal variation or a slightly imperfect finish tend to sit more naturally outside, echoing the textures already in the garden. Anything too polished or uniform can feel out of place.

Lesley Taylor, founder of Baked Tiles, flags the less visible details. "You need products that can cope with regular water exposure and will not panic the first time the temperature drops. A flexible, frost-resistant adhesive is also key," she adds, "because outdoor surfaces expand and contract far more than indoor ones."

How to winterise and maintain an outdoor shower

An outdoor shower left unprepared for winter can quickly become an expensive headache, and frozen pipes are one of the most common and costly culprits. Andy Ellis says the mistake most people make is thinking a simple shut-off is enough.

"Most homeowners think that shutting off the indoor isolation valve and leaving the outdoor shower head open is enough to clear the line but it's not," he warns. "Horizontal pipe runs naturally retain water, and when the water freezes it expands with immense force and can cause damage."

Thankfully, protecting your setup doesn't have to be complicated. Andy recommends installing a dedicated low-point drain valve inside the property, positioned at the lowest point of the pipe run before it exits the building.

Come autumn, the process is straightforward: shut the isolation valve, open the outdoor shower taps to release pressure, then open the internal drain valve. "This breaks the vacuum, allowing gravity to completely empty every drop of water out of the system," Andy explains.

For setups that can't be fully drained, wrapping pipework in mineral wool lagging and housing it inside a weatherproof conduit duct will offer solid protection, though Andy is clear that a gravity drain is always the safest option.

A little end-of-season care goes a long way too. Beyond winterising, regular cleaning and inspection will keep your shower looking good and working well for years to come. As Lesley Taylor puts it: "Get the details right and the tiles can do their thing without you worrying about cracks, staining or anything lifting after a wet winter."

FAQs

How much does an outdoor shower cost?

At the most straightforward end, a basic cold-water setup connecting to an existing outdoor tap can be achieved for a few hundred pounds, including the unit and minor plumbing work. Outdoor shower installation costs typically range from around £500 for a basic setup to £2,500 or more for something more elaborate.

Plumbing work can add £200 to £500, and electrical components such as lighting or a pump a further £150 to £400. Tiling, screening, and premium fixtures will add further still. As a rule of thumb, get at least two or three quotes from qualified plumbers before committing.

Where should you position an outdoor shower?

Positioning deserves as much thought as any other part of the installation. Lee Saunders recommends sheltered spots near walls, pergolas, courtyards or tall planting, which help with both privacy and wind protection. Proximity to the house is also worth considering, because the closer the shower is to an existing water supply, the simpler and less costly the plumbing will be.

There's also a seasonal consideration that catches many homeowners out. "Gardens that feel secluded in summer can become much more exposed once plants lose their leaves in autumn and winter," Lee warns. It's worth walking the space at different times of year before committing to a position, and thinking about permanent garden screening ideas such as timber panels, rendered walls or a built enclosure if year-round privacy is a priority.

Do you need planning permission for an outdoor shower?

For most homeowners, no. A simple wall-mounted or freestanding outdoor shower is unlikely to require planning permission. Where things get more complicated is if you're building a permanent enclosure around the shower, which may be treated as an outbuilding and subject to permitted development rules. When in doubt, always check with your local planning authority before starting any work, especially if your property is a listed building or sits within a conservation area.

An outdoor shower is just the beginning. If you're building a garden wellness space, our guide to garden saunas is worth a read, and find out what other garden trends are gracing our outdoors this year.

If you want to add summer colour and fragrance to a patio or deck, then our tips on how to plant roses in pots may come in handy.

These beautiful blooms are a well-loved favourite, and you don't have to have acres of space to grow them. With the right varieties and a few pretty containers, you can fill even the smallest of gardens with their romantic, whimsical charm and delicious scent.

Roses care is more straightforward than you might think, too, once you've got the know-how. But when growing them in garden planters, there are a few tips to take on board for the very best results – our guide explains all.

How to plant roses in pots in 6 simple steps

John Negus, a renowned British horticulturist, author and journalist, shares his step-by-step tips on how to plant roses in pots.

1. Choose a planter of a decent size that can comfortably accommodate all the roots of your rose plant. Place it in its final position (for example as part of your patio planting ideas) as it may be too heavy to move once planted up. Ideally go for somewhere that gets sun for at least half the day. Cover the drainage hole with 8cm of crocks or stones and sit the rose, in its pot, in the centre.
2. Mix a nutrient-rich potting compost with mycorrhizal fungi – for instance, John Innes potting compost No3 (available on Amazon) and Rootgrow (also available on Amazon). You can also add 10–20% multi-purpose or well-rotted manure for added richness. Work it into the gap between both pots and firm it gently. Carefully remove the potted rose and tap it from its container. Place the root ball into the hole you 
have made in the larger pot and add a little more compost.
3. Plant it at the same depth at which it was previously growing. Make sure that the compost surface is about 5cm below the rim of the pot, for watering.
4. Stand the pot on 'feet' to ensure that surplus moisture freely drains away. After planting, water copiously so that roots are in close contact with the compost.
5. Pruning roses should normally be done in late winter to early spring. Shorten the main stems by half and side shoots to two buds. Remove crowded stems from the middle of the bush.
6. Containers dry out quicker than flower beds so need more frequent watering. Water your potted roses freely in dry spells and fertilise plants with a high-potash liquid feed weekly from late spring to early autumn.
   
   You might want to include automatic watering as part of your garden irrigation plans too.

When is the best time to plant a rose in a pot?

If you've bought your rose in a pot, it can generally be planted at any time of the year. Avoid doing so during periods of drought or frost, however.

If you're planting bare root roses, this is best done from late autumn to mid-spring. Similar timings work well if you are planting bare root trees in pots too.

What are the best types of roses for containers?

Not all types of roses thrive in containers, as they need a deep root run. 


"You could try hybrid tea varieties, but I suspect they will not do terribly well," says John. "The best roses for containers are the patio and miniature types, which can be grown in small but deep pots (23-35cm) deep. You could also try less vigorous and climbing roses, but use larger containers with a minimum depth of 30-46cm.

"The RHS recommends the following as its top five roses for containers: 'Nice Day' (patio climber), 'Sweet Dream' (patio and also suitable as a standard), 'Magic Carpet' (groundcover), 'Laura Ford' (patio climber) and 'Robin Redbreast' (miniature or ground cover)," John continues.

I would also recommend looking in a catalogue to choose the varieties you like. David Austin recommends English roses for container growing and there are many varieties on the website. Look for a climbing variety if you want to train it up a pergola or fence as a screening plant.

Shop roses to grow in pots

FAQs

How do you care for potted roses after summer?

Roses are dormant in winter and generally unaffected by frosts, but if yours are still flowering, they will appreciate a little protection.

John suggests wrapping two
layers of bubble plastic around the pots and covering the compost with a 10cm layer of composted bark to encourage strong growth the following year. In spring, remove the top 10–12cm of compost and replace it with a nutrient-rich compost.

Whether your roses are still flowering or not when temperatures drop, it's a good idea to site the pots somewhere sunny and sheltered – along a garden wall, for instance. Ensure each is on pot 'feet' so that excess moisture drains away.

If you can only find an exposed site in your garden landscaping for your potted roses, and they've finished flowering, you may wish to cut them back by a third of their size in autumn. As the David Austin team explains, this can help prevent 'wind rock', which is where wind loosens roses at their base from the soil.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Growing lavender might seem straightforward but there are tips for how to grow it that will have a big impact on how good your plants look.

The key thing to remember is that lavender comes from the Mediterranean so loves baking in a sunny spot. It’s super easy to grow in most climates though and you can take cuttings from it to multiply your plants. It’s a nice flower to have around when you want to kick back and destress too, as the scent is so calming and relaxing.

For maximum impact, position lavender near doors, windows and paths in your garden landscaping to get the full benefits of the fragrance. And just watch as the bees and butterflies swarm all over it.

Getting started with growing lavender

Lavender is a hassle-free plant that will be equally happy in the ground or in a container. It thrives in flower borders, raised beds and gravel gardens, as well as being a natural fit with herb gardens.

Lavender is a great choice for low-maintenance garden ideas too. The flowers go on for ever so there's not a lot of deadheading to do. You don't have to fertilise it either, as lavender doesn’t like rich soil which means plants don’t need liquid feeds.

How to grow lavender successfully comes down to a few key pointers.

1. Planting lavender is really quick and easy. Find a sunny spot with well-drained soil – it won’t do well in shady, damp or cold conditions. 
2. Thanks to its Mediterranean heritage it prefers dry soil, so if your garden has clay soil or becomes waterlogged it might be better to grow it in pots.
3. Try to get your lavender planted as soon as you can once you’ve got it home.
4. Dig the patch of soil where you want it to go and remove any weeds.
5. Leave plenty of space for your lavender to grow if you’re aiming for lots together to get the sought-after effect of drifts of romantic planting.
6. Water regularly after planting and pay particular attention to your plants during hot weather. Once established, lavender is drought tolerant. This is great news as it doesn't need lots of watering.
7. Lavender grown in garden planters may need a little more attention, particularly in the height of summer as the soil will dry out quickly in hot weather. In winter, keep containers fairly dry and stand them on feet to help drainage.

What type of gardens suit lavender? 

Whatever your garden style there’s room for lavender. Perfect for your cottage garden ideas, this classic mixes beautifully with roses and foxgloves in a haze of romantic planting.

It also looks good in more urban-style spaces, so can be a good choice for modern garden ideas too, working equally well clipped into shape in modern raised garden beds or airy planting style in minimal Mediterranean-inspired gravel gardens.

Don’t miss a trick with containers either. Lavender looks great potted up, either as the main event or weaved in among other flowers.

How to choose the right type of lavender for your garden

Known mostly for their distinctive mauve flowers and aromatic foliage, there are in fact many different types of lavender to choose from. It's one of the top bee friendly plants, so is a perfect way to attract pollinators to your garden, too.

• English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) This is the one most people think of when lavender springs to mind. It's strongly scented, covered in masses of purple-blue flowers and the leaves are silver-grey. It’s hardy and can be left outside during winter as long as it's planted in free-draining soil. It also flowers for months on end. Favourite varieties include ‘Hidcote’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) and ‘Munstead’ (available from Crocus). It’s also possible to buy pink and white varieties of English lavender.
• French lavender (Lavandula stoecha) and other tender varieties These are less hardy than English lavenders and don't live as long. Grow them in containers that you can then lift inside for overwintering. A conservatory or greenhouse is ideal. These ones have flowers that are a different shape to the English varieties, topped by pretty feathery tufts, and their scent is not as strong. Try Lavandula pedunculata (available from Crocus) for an early flowering variety.
• Hybrid 'lavendins' These have been bred from a mix of Lavandula angustifolia and Lavandula latifolia, which makes them more robust and tolerant of wetter soils and colder winters. They grow bigger than English lavenders and have more flowers for a longer period of time, which means more nectar for bees. Popular hybrid lavenders include ‘Edelweiss’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) and ‘Grosso’ (also from Thompson & Morgan).

Shop our favourite lavender varieties

What's the best way to prune lavender?

Everyone’s been in the situation where they've had a lavender plant that becomes dry and woody by late summer, and ends up looking half dead. Snip them into shape after they’ve finished flowering though and you will keep your lavender looking neat in your patio edging or alongside garden paths, as well as rejuvenating it for next year.

Trim any faded flower stalks (although birds like to eat these so you can leave them on if you prefer) but make sure you don’t cut the woody stems as this will limit any new growth.

Foliage can be clipped in spring if your plant has been damaged by frost. If your plants are looking really jaded it might be time to replace them with new ones though. But treat them well and they can last up to ten years.

How to dry lavender

Whatever type of lavender you grow, drying it is incredibly easy and you can use it to scent your linen cupboard or drawers.

1. First snip your flowers. Follow the stem down from the flower bud until you reach a junction where two side leaves or new buds have begun to form.
2. Snip the stem just there and the plant will continue to produce more fresh flowers. For longer stems, simply snip deeper into the plant. 
3. The simplest way to dry fresh lavender is to hang it up in small bunches.
4. Secure each bunch loosely with twine, then hang them upside down in a warm, dry spot where the air can circulate around them. 
5. Alternatively dry your bunches of lavender in vases, making sure there is plenty of room for air to circulate around the stems to prevent them going mouldy.

FAQs

What is the best time of year to plant lavender?

As long as the weather is good, in the UK lavender is best planted out in the garden in April or May. This is because the soil starts to warm up at this time of year so it offers the ideal growing conditions for your plants to get established. You cna plant it at other times of the year, however.

Just remember to never plant out lavender on cold days though – it's a Mediterranean garden plant and will need a little cosseting early in the year in case of any unexpected cold snaps.

Where does lavender grow best?

There is quite a choice when it comes to lavender varieties but the main thing to remember is that all of them love a sunny position, whether they’re hardy, half-hardy or tender species. So give your lavender what it needs by making it feel at home in a sun trap. It's also a great plant for a gravel garden.

Plants in containers are always more susceptible to cold, as their roots are less insulated than when in the ground. Plus if the soil is waterlogged it can freeze. However they do have the added benefit of being moveable. To help lavender survive cooler temperatures, transfer your containers to a sheltered spot over winter.

Does lavender grow back every year?

Give lavender what it likes (a sunny spot, dry soil, a light prune every now and then) and the answer is yes. Some types of French and tender lavenders are not hardy though and won’t survive the winter outside so always make sure you check the label before you buy. Opt for a hardy English variety of lavender if you want to leave yours outside all year round as a pretty screening plant for your patio, for example.

Lavender bushes typically last for between seven and 10 years, sometimes longer. But generally at some point they will need replacing.

Does lavender grow well in pots?

Lavender loves growing in pots and is a great choice for pretty window boxes as part of your front garden ideas. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes and use a loamy compost such as John Innes No 2 with plenty of grit or perlite mixed in to help with drainage. A good ratio is 25% grit/75% compost.

Once planted water well, then continue to water at regular intervals throughout summer, more so if the weather is really hot. Keep an eye on the compost to see if it has dried out, and snip out any faded flowers to encourage more to grow.

Plant lavender in pots with these essentials

Lavender plants are widely available from garden centres and online during spring and summer. Plants are usually sold in 9cm pots ready for planting out in your garden design.

If you want to get an early start lavender is also sold as plug plants in spring. This is a cheaper way to buy it, particularly if you’re planning on planting masses to get those desirable lavender drifts. But you will need an indoor space to nurture these plantlings until any chance of late frost has passed.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

If you've noticed an influx of ants in your garden, you're probably wondering what caused it and how to get rid of them pronto.

While these tiny creatures are virtually harmless (aside from the rare – and very mild – bite), no one wants a colony crawling across their outdoor table while they're trying to enjoy an al fresco dinner.

To get to the bottom of why ants are appearing in your garden and how to prevent them, we spoke with two pest control experts, who have shared their insights and top tips below (along with products that may help).

How do I get rid of ants in the garden?

1. Find out what's attracting them

Before you do anything, you'll need to work out what's attracting the ants in the first place, explains Daniel Steward, Managing Director of Shield Pest Control.

There are three main things that could be luring them in: food, water and shelter, so have a think about what that could look like in your garden. Do you leave your bins out? Do you have any spilled bird food on the floor? Is your outdoor tap leaking?

If you regularly eat your dinner outdoors (or your pets do), make sure you're cleaning the surfaces down afterwards, ensuring that no crumbs are left behind for the ants to snack on.

2. Keep plant areas free from food sources

As we previously mentioned, ants will be drawn to any food sources in your garden – whether that's a rotting apple fallen from a tree, a compost heap or spilled sugary drinks.

A clever tip for keeping ants out of your compost is by adding a little moisture to the food, as ants prefer it dry. You should also bury your kitchen scraps – particularly if they are sugary – and turn the pile regularly to deter nesting activity.

3. Manage moisture levels

Not only are dry environments better for ants to nest in, but they also help pheromone trails and scent marks remain stable. With that in mind, it's a good idea to keep your garden soil evenly moist, recommends Tony King, Owner of The Pied Piper.

While this isn't going to eliminate them completely, it can be a way of moving them from a particular area you don't want them in – say, the patio by your table.

4. Try a natural deterrent

You may want to consider using a natural deterrent in your garden, such as peppermint oil, to disrupt the ants' trails. Daniel Steward suggests applying it around patios, decking and seating areas, which may also put off rats.

Shopping picks to ant-proof your garden

How do you prevent ants in the garden?

Daniel Steward explains that the best way to prevent them in your garden is to make the environment as unattractive as possible when it comes to food, water and shelter supplies.

"Simple measures such as keeping bins tightly sealed, cleaning up food and drink spillages after outdoor gatherings, removing fallen fruit and covering compost bins can make a significant difference," he says.

"Make sure to seal cracks around walls, patios and garden structures where ants may establish nests. Prevention is always easier than dealing with an established colony."

We tend to notice ants more in the summer months when the colonies become active (and we are also outside).

When is Flying Ant Day?

Flying Ant Day isn’t on a specific date; it occurs between late June and mid-August and peaks in late July.

"The term 'Flying Ant Day' has been used colloquially to describe the large number of flying ants that appear during the summer months. Millions of these insects emerge from their respective nest areas to perform a mass mating ritual called a nuptial flight," explains Tony King.

"Both the weather conditions and time of day influence the emergence of the ants. They are most likely to emerge on warm, wet and wind-free days (usually late in July or early August) shortly after a short-term rain event."

While there are a number of ways to eliminate ants in your garden, it ultimately comes down to removing potential nesting spots, food and water sources. From September to February, they are less likely to be around.

For more expert-backed pest advice, read our guide on how to get rid of slugs in the garden and how to get rid of chafer grubs.

Looking for a quick and easy way to cover ugly fences or screen your garden this summer? It could be that bamboo fence roll is the solution you need, particularly as it's also one of the most cost-effective ways you can upgrade your garden for less.

Made from bamboo canes or reeds, it's also a more natural option than other products, meaning it can even boost your eco-credentials.

Suitable for use on fences, walls or even for adding shade to pergolas, here's everything you need to know about using bamboo rolls in your garden design.

Types of bamboo fence roll

When it comes to choosing the best type of bamboo roll for your garden project, not all bamboo roll is made equal, as Tom Douglas, senior gardening buyer at Cherry Lane Garden Centres explains.

“There are a few different types available. Whole bamboo cane rolls tend to have a more decorative, premium look and are generally more robust, while bamboo reed rolls are made from thinner pieces of bamboo and can be a more budget-friendly option," he says, "although they're typically less durable over time."

Choosing the right product means getting the right balance between aesthetics, practicality and how long you need it to last.

Shop for bamboo fence roll

Where and how to use bamboo roll in your garden

So where can you use bamboo fence roll in your garden? It's surprisingly versatile says Tom Douglas, and suitable in a number of different locations, not just on fences.

“Bamboo roll is a simple and effective way to add privacy to a patio or garden without having to invest in new fencing," explains Tom. "It's great for covering unattractive fences or walls, screening off compost, wheelie bins and utility areas, or even creating a more secluded outdoor space.

“It can also help add extra height to existing fences," he adds, "helping to reduce wind exposure and provide a bit of welcome shade during the warmer months.”

If you've also invested in a pergola without a roof, but find that the re-occurring heatwaves are making you question your decision, using bamboo across the top of your frame could be one way of adding the shade you need.

When it comes to installation, it's also a lot easier than digging the ground for new fence posts or more permanent structures.

“Installing bamboo roll is relatively straightforward," confirms Tom. "It can be attached to existing fences, walls or structures using galvanised staples, screws or specialist fence clips to keep it secure.”

Use these for fixing bamboo fence roll

Maintenance and lifespan

Unlike other types of fencing which can require regular painting or sanding and staining, bamboo fence rolls are also easy to look after.

“One of the biggest benefits is that it's very low maintenance," notes Tom Douglas. "Aside from occasionally brushing away dirt and debris, or giving it a gentle wash with water and a soft brush, there's not a great deal you need to do to keep it looking its best.”

But, will it last? Unlike other more solid fence panels such as composite fencing, as it's made of a natural material, you might not get as many years out of the product as you'd hoped. Although having lived in Asia and seen bamboo canes used as scaffolding, I'd certainly suggest that it may be stronger than you think.

“Lifespan really depends on the conditions it's exposed to," notes Tom. "Factors such as strong sunlight, heavy rain and high winds will all affect its lifespan, so a sheltered position will generally help it stay in good condition for longer.”

FAQs

Is planting bamboo a better option than bamboo fence roll?

Although you may prefer the more leafy, natural appearance of bamboo plants, it's recommended you proceed with caution when choosing and planting it in your garden. Choose the wrong type and you could end up with invasive bamboo problems.

Always opt for a non-invasive variety, recommends head of horticulture at B&Q, Mark Sage.

"There are several clumping bamboos available in the UK, but for me, Fargesia rufa really stands out as the most reliable and hardy option for our climate. It’s the one I’d confidently recommend to most gardeners.

"There are other types, such as Bambusa and Chusquea," he adds, "but they tend to be less hardy in UK conditions or simply not as widely available. For most gardens – especially in more built-up areas – Fargesia rufa offers a really practical solution: you still get that lush, evergreen privacy and structure, but without the worry of it taking over."

You can find Fargesia rufa on sale at B&Q.

If sustainable gardening is at the core of your garden ideas, as well as using bamboo roll for a more natural finish, take a look at these ways to re-use brick in your garden, and discover what else to include in your eco-friendly garden design.

To turn your garden spa into the ultimate chill-out zone, you'll need some good hot tub privacy solutions. That way, you can enjoy the bubbles in peace, without feeling on show to your neighbours or the rest of your garden.

Tucking a hot tub into its own private zone will also create more of a distinct 'room' – a place solely reserved for relaxation, that's separated from the daily hubbub. And hot tub privacy ideas can add tons of stylistic appeal too – from chic slatted screens to soft planting that subtly shields you from prying eyes.

These designs below are well worth perusing to elevate your hot tub and boost your patio privacy.

1. Add a pergola to screen a hot tub from view

If you're investing in a hot tub, a sleek shelter like this is ideal for making your tub more private, and will encourage you to use it whatever the weather, too.

All the surrounding slats are adjustable, so not only can you control the view but also the amount of air flow and natural light. And the addition of sliding doors means the whole thing can be contained should you wish – perfect for a cosy winter dip.

It might not be quite the right fit if your plot is more whimsical and romantic in style, but for modern gardens it's a fantastic solution.

2. Use bamboo for subtle hot tub screening

Don't underestimate the power of plants for a natural garden screening idea. It's a more subtle approach than a man-made structure, and will boost the level of greenery in your plot too.

As this setup shows, bamboo can be used really effectively as a screening plant. Tall bamboo plants in a trio of modern containers effortlessly divide the lawn from the hot tub, offering a leafy view whilst you enjoy relaxing in the spa.

3. Go for a chic corner screen for enhanced privacy

A corner screen can be all it takes to give your hot tub a much needed boost of privacy, without making it feel overly enclosed. This slatted design, for instance, provides more height than the adjacent fence, whilst still allowing a summer breeze through. Plus, its slimline nature means it won't take up much space.

Match it to the colour palette of your tub or the surrounding features for a harmonious look. And if you're looking for a denser screen, consider training some of the best climbing plants for pergolas around it – scented flowers such as roses and jasmine will provide a particularly lovely atmosphere.

4. Offer shelter and privacy with a wooden gazebo

Garden gazebos are fantastic additions for year-round outdoor living as they will keep a space sheltered no matter the weather. But they're not just for seating areas or garden kitchens, they make a great home for hot tubs, too.

It's a particularly good choice if you have neighbouring windows overhead, as it will shield the tub from eyes up high. As shown in this design, you can also use the posts to support additional fencing panels, to provide privacy from the sides, too.

5. Extend your garden fence to shield your hot tub

Are you looking for an update to your garden fence? Well, if you're also on the lookout for hot tub privacy ideas, consider extending your new design horizontally into your plot to shelter a side or two.

It's a great way to keep the look of your space feeling cohesive, whilst dividing it up into separate zones. This slatted design, for instance, keeps an area of the lawn out of sight from the tub.

Plus, it provides an opportunity for bringing extra wall lights into the scene, to encourage use of the area even when night falls.

6. Opt for frosted glass on a raised hot tub deck

A hot tub positioned up high, either on a raised deck or a roof terrace, may need screening from people down below to make it feel more private. Fences are a go-to, but rather than opting for something completely opaque that could make the space feel dark and dingy, consider a frosted glass design.

As demonstrated here, it will provide a subtle yet stylish barrier without blocking the light. And, it'll be easy to clean, too.

7. Make a statement with a stone hot tub surround

As this striking setup shows, you can choose to go bold with your hot tub privacy ideas for a more unique look.

Tim Redwood of Redwood Stone explains how they exhibited the above design at RHS Hampton Court Palace Garden Festival. "As a result, we now seem to be increasingly seen as the go-to company if you want to hide or enhance a hot tub, which many people see as unsightly, by incorporating it within one of our garden follies."

Naturally, as well as turning the space into a show-stopping feature, it will allow users to enjoy their tub with more privacy – perfect for a romantic evening for two.

8. Use the levels in your layout to boost privacy

Sloping garden ideas can come in handy if you want to keep zones of your garden separate. Take a look at this space, for instance, where the hot tub has been given its own dedicated level away from the patio area up top.

A row of planters line the railings above to provide an extra level of shelter and exclusivity to the zone. And although you could say the resulting space is a little on the small side, recessed decking lighting and structural planting keep it feeling inviting as well as intimate.

9. Create an outdoor hot tub space with all the mod cons

Here's another enclosed design with sides that can be adjusted when needed. But this one includes a comfy seating area too, making it a space for entertaining as well as relaxing.

Mounted heaters and integrated garden lighting ideas will give the space even more of an indoor-outdoor feel, and will ramp up the comfort levels when it's dark or cold outside. Meanwhile, a glass panel to one side helps to bring the outdoors in without sacrificing on privacy, by offering a soothing view of trees.

Lighting to illuminate your hot tub space

10. Surround a hot tub with a soft-hued wall

Fancy a more laid-back look? This gently curved stone wall in a light terracotta hue offers plenty of privacy whilst still creating a natural and organic vibe. It complements the decking underfoot too, as well as the timber steps.

Potted plants add a colourful boost to the scene, setting a Mediterranean garden tone. We love the ornate design along the back wall too which provides a chic focal point.

What do you need to consider when making a hot tub more private?

"There are a variety of options when it comes to screening," say the experts at HydroLife, from beautiful privacy-trellis style fencing to more permanent outbuildings for your hot tub to sit under. However, they say that "there is no, one-size-fits-all approach," and really "it is a totally subjective decision."

But there are a few things to consider when deciding how to make your hot tub more private, including your budget. For instance, an enclosed structure or gazebo tend to be the more costly options, especially if they're bespoke or have integrated features such as lighting. Likewise, levelling a plot specifically to create a hot tub zone will require landscaping professionals and is unlikely to be the best solution for the budget-conscious.

Having a garden wall installed around your tub is likely to be more affordable – in fact, if you're handy with some DIY skills you could even build your own. A fence or add-on screen can be an even quicker and easier solution but may require a little more maintenance, especially if it's made from timber.

"If you have a large enough garden, you could place your tub away from your neighbours and create a natural privacy screen with clever planting," says the team at BISHTA (The British and Irish Spa and Hot Tub Association). Not only do plants such as trees, shrubs and hedges help to shield the view, but they also make a great sound barrier. However, "you will need to consider placement to reduce the foliage from dropping into your tub." And of course, plants need maintaining to remain healthy (and some will lose their leaves in winter).

Whatever hot tub privacy ideas you go for, ensure that the tub itself is located on a firm, level and solid surface, says BISHTA. This needs to be able to support the weight of not just the hot tub, its water and any occupants, but also any associated equipment such as steps or a pergola with a roof.

"Patios with good foundations are often possible to use, but this should always be checked with the supplier before agreeing to locate the hot tub," they add. You'll need to make sure it has a dedicated electrical outlet (if you choose an electric spa), they continue, "and it will also need a standard garden hose to be available with a nearby water supply."

Finally, don't forget to think about the view you will get from your chosen location, as BISHTA says. "If your priority is to enjoy your garden's views, then think about the area with the best outlook."

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Some areas of the garden are best hidden away and that's why the best screening plants can be very useful. A row of bins, that messy corner where broken pots and bags of compost accumulate or maybe the neighbour's ugly fence, are just some of the features that might be better covered up with a living wall of green.

Clever use of garden screening ideas can also create privacy in an overlooked space. Another benefit is that they add interest to a small plot when they can be used to create interconnected spaces. A bland square or plain rectangular space could be divided by a row of grasses. A trellis fence makes an inexpensive feature when it is situated halfway across the garden and smothered with roses or clematis. This partial screening creates an inviting glimpse into the area beyond, tricking the eye into thinking that the garden is larger than it really is.

The plant you choose depends on the reason for the screen. A semi-transparent row of planting might work in some spaces to break up a harsh boundary, but complete concealment might be preferable if you're looking to cover up an unattractive fence, for example. Our advice will help you find the best solution for your space.

1. Star Jasmine 

Evergreen foliage means that this pretty shrub, trachelospermum jasminoides, is a great choice for screening any trellis that is in part shade. "It is vigorous, with dense, even coverage," say the experts at Squires Garden Centres.

The starry clusters of flowers smell sweet on hot summer nights, and in winter, the leaves will turn bronze, but they won’t drop.

Star jasmine is a twining climber, which grows about 10-20cm a year, so it will add steady coverage, but won’t run riot. Plant in the ground or in a container and it’s perfect to provide seclusion near outdoor seating on a patio, which means you can take full advantage of its glorious fragrance.

Container-grown jasmine needs a large pot and frequent watering to keep the soil moist. In late winter or early spring, add fertiliser and mulch with compost.

2. Golden Hop

If you need fast-growing summer screening, then Humulus lupulus ‘Aureus,’ or Golden Hop (available from Thompson & Morgan), is a good choice for a climbing fence plant. It’s a perennial twining climber, with zingy yellow-green foliage and trumpet-shaped flowers in summer.

Grow it up and over your pergola ideas, or up a large fence or wall and it will reach as tall as 6m in one season. For this reason, make sure that your space is not too small, or it could be overwhelming.

Grow in full sun and cut back in late winter or early spring for strong, fresh growth.

3. Bamboo

The experts at Squires recommend Phyllostachys Aurea, or golden bamboo, as one of their top screening plants, explaining that: "it has a wonderfully vibrant golden stem with evergreen foliage. At first the stems start green, then they mature to a bright golden yellow."

It grows quickly and has a contemporary look, so it's a top choice if you're a fan of modern garden ideas and need something that offers fast coverage. In fact, it is so enthusiastic that it may need containing if planted in the ground. This bamboo can top 7m and spread 4m after 10 years of growth. To be on the safe side, you may prefer to plant it in a container to help restrict its growth and prevent your bamboo becoming invasive.

Plant in full sun or partial shade in moist but well-drained soil. Keep watering during the growing season, as bamboos are thirsty plants.

4. Honeysuckle 

Honeysuckle is a wonderful way to screen off a less-than-lovely garden shed, or it could be used to soften a harsh new garden fence or trained up a trellis to create some much needed garden privacy.

Many honeysuckles are semi-evergreen, which means they will lose some of their leaves in winter, but they do retain a partial screening effect. They grow between two to three metres in a year and flower from summer to autumn.

These are easy-care plants, which thrive in light shade. Cut back the flowered stems by a third in late summer, and then tidy up again in late winter. Try ‘American Beauty’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) a hardy, semi-evergreen, for its gold and rose scented flowers and fast-growing habit (ultimate height is 5m).

5. Cherry Laurel (Prunus Novita)

Another of the best screening plants, as recommended by the expert team at Squires, is a new variety of the popular evergreen Cherry Laurel. It’s a good one for people who live in areas with harsher winters as it is resistant to cold weather.

"It has lovely, glossy, mid-green ovate leaves, and is a staple screening plant in many gardens," say the experts. It is easy to maintain with a light prune or a trim to keep its shape.

Give the shrub a nitrogen-based feed in the growing season to keep it looking fresh, and plant it in free draining but moist soil. After 10 years, the ultimate height will be 4m and the spread is 4m.

6. Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’

Tall and upstanding, this type of ornamental grass can be planted en masse in garden borders to form a feathery screen, or lined up in pots in groups. The green shoots appear in early spring, followed by plume-like flowers which are green, fading to buff/blonde.

It is very easy to grow, it just needs cutting down to the ground in February. Don’t cut it any earlier, as the screening effect will last over winter, and it looks very pretty when the fronds are dusted with white frost. Grows to a height of around 2m if it’s kept well-watered. Plant in a large pot in full sun or partial shade.

7. Pennisetum 

It’s also known as Chinese Fountain Grass, which is apt, because it has arching plumes, like a spray of water, with feathery flowers on top. The height and spread is 1.5m, which makes this a good plant to frame a seating area as part of your patio planting plan. It likes full sun and a sheltered spot.

8. Miscanthus 

This is an easy grass to grow as it tolerates most soils (although it prefers full sun). It has exuberant fountains of foliage in early summer, and the colour changes subtly through the seasons, bleaching to a pretty blonde in winter.

For a taller plant, try miscanthus sinensis ‘Undine’ which grows to 2.5m, or for a smaller choice, miscanthus sinensis ‘Kleine silberspinne’ which reaches about 1.5m.

9. Verbena bonariensis 

If you're after partial screening rather than full coverage, this upright perennial has skinny, criss-crossing stems and tiny purple flowers which are loved by bees and butterflies. The slim, elegant stalks create a lattice effect. They grow up to 2m tall and can be planted in a row where they will rocket away and become a beautiful veil in just one season (returning the next year).

You can either grow flowers from seed or invest in some small plants from the nursery or garden centre. They will tolerate poor soil and dryer conditions.

10. Lavender

If you pick a tall variety of lavender and plant it as a hedge in a raised garden bed, it will create a see-through wall of scent and colour. Try Lavandula x intermedia ‘Hidcote Giant’ or Lavandula Intermedia 'Grosso’ both of which can top 1m in height. The flowers have lovely long, robust stems. Plant them about 30cm apart.

Lavender is excellent for growing in drought or dry conditions, as it just needs watering regularly until it gets established. Trim the spent flowers back every summer so the bush can put on a bit of growth before winter.

11. Clematis

If you're after one of the best climbing plants for pergolas, a clematis should be high on your list. A shady roof clad with big, beautiful flowers and thick foliage is exactly what you get if you plant a Group 3 climbing clematis. It needs a little help to achieve full thickness, so give it a trim in early spring and keep tying in the sides to create density.

Plant a couple of clematis on either side of the pergola and they will climb up and over the structure creating a perfect sense of seclusion. Try ‘Ernest Markham’ or ‘Mary Rose.’

12. Rambling rose

A rambling rose is one of the best types of roses to cover a garden wall, fence or a shed. It has small flowers in large sprays creating a mass of colour. Rambling roses only produce only one flush of flowers a year lasting a couple of weeks, usually in early summer, and they will lose their leaves in winter.

There are so many varieties to choose from. A very tall one, reaching 7.5m is ‘Belvedere,’ which has small, pale pink flowers and a pretty scent.

FAQs

How can you use screening plants to create privacy in a garden? 

Privacy in overlooked gardens can be achieved by introducing wood or metal arbours, a pergola or even some simple garden arches where screening plants can scramble thickly overhead. These features are readily available online or at garden centres. Then it’s just a matter of choosing a fast growing screening plant to grow over them and you could be looking at some much-needed seclusion in just one to two years.

What are the fastest growing screening plants? 

Bamboo, honeysuckle and Golden Hop are all good choices for fast-growing screening plants. Certain types of clematis (marked Group 3 on the plant label) will cover a trellis or pergola in quick time too if you cut the ends back in early spring to encourage thicker growth.

Some of the best screening plants can be fast growers, but they may also become invasive, so before you choose which plants are suitable for your space, check the ultimate height and spread and make sure it is right for your plot.

If your aim is to create some effective privacy fence ideas and you're therefore planting near a boundary with a neighbour, avoid going for very large plants which could cause problems with invasive roots. These can block drains and soakaways, so it’s worth taking the time to ensure that your plants will not cause a dispute with anyone living next door to you.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

If a new driveway or patio is on the cards this year, you may be wondering what jointing material is best and whether polymeric sand is a strong contender.

While it’s not the cheapest option on the market, costing around £15–£30 per bag, it is more affordable than bound jointing systems such as resin and epoxy, and can offer better drainage.

To learn more about polymeric sand, including what it is, how it’s used for driveway ideas, and how it stacks up against other popular materials, keep reading – we spoke with two experts to find out.

What is polymeric sand and what do you use it for?

According to Andy McLaughlin of RF Paving, polymeric sand is a blend of fine-grade sand mixed with polymer binders that hardens when water is applied.

Many people use it to fill the joints in block paving, concrete paving, and natural stone paving, and although it is most commonly found on driveway materials, it can also be applied to patios, walkways and garden paths.

While it is more expensive than kiln-dried sand or basic paver joint sand, it can be a budget-friendly alternative to premium jointing materials such as epoxy and resin.

How do you apply polymeric sand?

If you like the sound of polymeric sand and fancy giving it a go, you’ll be pleased to hear that it is relatively easy to install.

Andy McLaughlin explains that you will need to pour the sand onto your paving and sweep it into the joints using a soft brush. Once the excess has been removed, spray a fine mist of water, which will activate the chemical process, causing it to harden and cure.

A word of warning: you’ll want to ensure that the excess has been completely removed before you apply the water; otherwise, you’ll be left with stained pavers. The surface should also be completely dry to prevent the mixture from setting prematurely and appearing uneven.

What you will need

What are the pros and cons of polymeric sand?

Before you commit to installing polymeric sand, it’s worth weighing up the pros and cons, as Andy McLaughlin explains below:

Pros

• Helps to prevent weed growth within the joints
• Clean appearance
• Isn't washed away as easily as kiln-dried sand
• Good joint stability
• You can buy permeable-grade options (meaning it complies with surface water drainage regulations)
• Cheaper than bound jointing systems

Cons

• Not a weed-free solution
• Can crack over time
• More expensive than kiln-dried sand

How long will polymeric sand last?

While the answer to this question depends on the base, climate and traffic, Luke Clarke, owner of Britannia Stone, says that on a good base in a mild climate, polymeric sand can last around eight to ten years before needing to be redone. However, if there are harsh winters and heavy use, you could be looking at redoing it every three to five years.

"It breaks down over time with frost, rain and general wear, so you do have to maintain it. It isn't an every-year job, but you want to look over the joints once or twice a year and top up anywhere that's gone. It's worth resealing the surface every few years to keep the sand protected," he adds.

After speaking with the experts, it is clear that polymeric sand is a strong choice for jointing, thanks to its affordable price, ease of installation and durability.

If you want a little bit of inspiration, browse through our selection of modern driveway ideas or read our practical guide on how to design a patio.

Did you know you can change the colour of hydrangeas? Well, at least when it comes to mophead and lacecap cultivars of Hydrangea macrophylla, Hydrangea involucrata, and Hydrangea serrata. Maybe you want to try a new look for your shrubs. Or, perhaps you've noticed your once-blue bloomer turning pink unexpectedly and want to get it back to its former hue. Either way, the process is quite straightforward once you know how.

These plants are one of our favourite flowering shrubs for adding structure and vibrancy to a plot. What's more, learning how to grow hydrangeas is easy, so they're ideal for novice and experienced gardeners alike.

And they're not just for borders – you can plant them in containers too. In fact, changing the colour of hydrangeas in containers is easier than those planted straight into the ground as you have more control over the soil. We explain everything you need to know in this simple guide.

How the soil pH impacts the colour of your hydrangeas

Hydrangeas with blue or pink flowers tend to be blue in acid soil conditions, mauve in acid to neutral soil conditions, and pink in alkaline conditions.

This means that by changing the pH of the soil, you can achieve different hydrangea colours to complement your garden colour scheme. Bear in mind that the colour change won't happen overnight, however – it is an ongoing process.

How do you make your hydrangea blue?

Whether growing hydrangeas in pots or in the ground, you can maintain blue-hued blooms by acidifying the soil.

Try mulching with organic matter – apart from mushroom compost, which is more alkaline. Using ericaceous compost, such as this John Innes compost from Amazon, also tends to be effective.

You can also buy "blueing" compounds from garden centres and online, which should be applied according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Some gardeners also say adding coffee grounds to the soil can help, or working bits of rusty metal into the feeding-root area can be another option to try.

John Negus, a gardening expert and writer for Amateur Gardening, also recommends using rainwater to water hydrangeas to help keep them blue. You can collect it in a water butt – which is also a good approach if you want a more eco-friendly garden.

How do you make your hydrangea pink?

Hydrangeas in neutral or chalky (alkaline) soils generally produce pink or mauve, slightly muddy-colored blooms. "Pink blooms are caused by a relatively high pH, of around 7.5–8," says John Negus.

The best way to do this is to add garden lime, such as this Westland Garden Lime Soil Conditioner from Amazon, to the soil. Follow the instructions on the pack of your chosen product, but doing it every couple of weeks during the growing season should be effective.

Adding wood ash to the soil around your hydrangeas can also help to increase its alkalinity – a useful tip for those who have invested in a fire pit for their garden.

Can you change the colour of white hydrangeas?

Hydrangeas with green or white flowers are increasingly popular nowadays, working well in both modern and romantic, cottage-garden schemes. But, unlike the blue and pink varieties, these types can not have their colour changed as they are unaffected by soil pH.

Some will, however, turn slightly pink as they age, says John Negus.

FAQs

Why are some of my hydrangea's flowers blue and some pink?

It is quite unusual to have hydrangeas that have both pink and blue blooms, but it can happen. The reason behind this is generally because there are pockets of acidity within the plant's root area.

To have more control over the soil, you may want to try planting your hydrangea in large garden planters instead.

As previously highlighted, changing the colour of your hydrangeas will be easier if you are growing them in pots as you can have more control of the soil pH due to your choice of potting compost.

Another benefit to growing them in pots is that if you have issues with your hydrangea not blooming you can easily move it to another spot to see if different growing conditions helps it to bloom once more.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

If you've noticed couch grass growing in your garden and spoiling the uniform look of your lawn, you may be wondering whether it's a weed and if you should remove it.

While yes, this perennial species is technically a weed – spreading aggressively and sometimes competing with other plants outdoors – it can play an important part in the ecosystem in your garden, for butterflies and moths in particular.

To find out whether you should remove it and the easiest way to do so, we spoke with two gardening experts who have shared their advice below.

Should I remove couch grass?

No, you don’t need to remove couch grass as part of your lawn care routine. In fact, this species supports the wildlife in your garden, acting as an important food source for butterfly and moth caterpillars, according to experts at the RHS.

It can also provide shelter for some insects, such as beetles, keeping them protected from predators and providing a safe hunting ground.

Not only does it help the creatures in your garden, but it also increases biodiversity, and RHS experts say it is increasingly being considered a wildflower. Thanks to its flowering seed head – which appears from June to August – this grass can also look very pretty in a meadow-style space.

While there are lots of benefits to keeping couch grass in your garden, it’s worth being aware that it is an invasive and fast-growing plant, which can spoil the look of a tidy lawn and outcompete other plants.

With that in mind, you may choose to remove it or relocate it to another area of the garden. The RHS recommends this if it is growing in a vegetable garden, newly planted borders, newly sown lawns, and alpine rockeries, and suggests doing so in early spring.

How do I remove couch grass?

If couch grass is causing problems in your garden, you can remove this weed naturally, as using a herbicide will also kill patches of your lawn.

“Couch grass is one of the most persistent garden weeds because it spreads through an extensive network of underground stems, known as rhizomes. Simply pulling off the top growth often isn't enough, as any remaining roots can quickly regenerate and produce new plants," explains Martin Chaplin, Head of Horticulture at Hedges Direct.

“To remove couch grass effectively, it's important to dig out as much of the root system as possible, carefully lifting and removing the white rhizomes from the soil. Some gardeners find using a garden fork rather than a spade helps, as it loosens the soil while reducing the likelihood of cutting the roots into smaller pieces that can regrow elsewhere."

If you're dealing with a large infestation, he says you can cover the area with cardboard, mulch, or a weed-suppressing membrane for several months, which will block light and weaken the plant.

Top tip: remove couch grass after rainfall as the rhizomes will be easier to lift, and avoid aggressive digging as this can spread it even further.

Tackle couch grass with these shopping picks

How do I control couch grass?

If you don't want to remove the couch grass altogether (but would rather it didn't grow out of control), Martin Chaplin recommends "regular weeding, mulching and maintaining healthy, densely planted borders" to suppress new growth.

"Ground-cover planting can also be useful, as couch grass is less likely to spread vigorously where there is strong competition from established plants. Varieties such as hardy geraniums, vinca (periwinkle) and ajuga create dense coverage that helps shade the soil and reduce the space available for weeds to establish," he adds.

As we've learned, there are pros and cons to couch grass in your garden, and deciding whether to remove it or keep it is ultimately up to you.

If you found this helpful, you may want to read our guide on laying turf over grass or learn about the different types of ornamental grass.

Cloudy pool water can instantly make a swim seem less inviting – and on these hot summer days, you won’t want to miss out, especially if you’ve already invested in one of the best home swimming pools.

Thankfully, it's usually pretty simple to get the water in your garden pool cleared up and looking pristine. With our tips, you’ll be able to cool off outdoors in no time – without worrying about what's lurking at the bottom.

Below, we explain four reasons why your pool water might be cloudy, and how to get it sparkling once again.

How do I clear cloudy pool water?

The bottom line when it comes to preventing cloudy water is to maintain a proper pool maintenance routine. But if you need to know how to clear it fast, you're in luck: there are a couple of different methods that will restore your water’s sparkle within just a few days.

1. The pool clarifier method
The first approach is to use a clarifier, which makes particles in your pool clump together, making it easier for the filter to remove them. Clean your pool first using a pool brush, then follow your chosen product’s application instructions. Remember to keep the filter running until the water is clear again – this can take around three days.

What you will need

2. The pool flocculant method

Alternatively, you can use a pool flocculant. As Swim University says, this is more suited for extremely cloudy water. Like a clarifier, it also clumps together contaminants, but it makes them sink to the floor of your pool.

You'll then need to hoover them up with a manual pool vacuum, set to the waste setting. Keep water levels topped up with a garden hose as you carry out the job. This method requires more work on your behalf, but it should clear your pool quickly – usually in one to two days.

What you will need

Why is my pool water cloudy?

1. Issues with your pool's filter

One of the most common reasons for cloudy water is a problem with your pool's filter. If it's not working properly, it won't be able to clear contaminants from your pool effectively.

This is why checking and cleaning your filters – and replacing them when necessary – should be a crucial part of your maintenance routine. Remember to clear out skimmer baskets frequently, too.

According to Swim University, you should also make sure your filter is on for long enough each day for the entire pool's worth of water to pass through it – this will usually take at least eight to 12 hours.

2. Unbalanced pool chemicals

Another reason for cloudy pool water is unbalanced chemical levels. This includes your chlorine levels and the pH and alkalinity.

Test the water often (using a kit like this from Amazon) and adjust the levels with chemicals accordingly. It's particularly wise to do this after heavy use, such as a pool party.

Shocking a pool, just as with shocking a hot tub, should also be part of your regular routine for an extra boost of sanitation and to keep your water looking clean and clear. Cloudy pool water after shocking may occur, but it's generally just a temporary reaction and will clear up as the filter runs.

3. Rainwater affecting your pool's water

You may also notice cloudy pool water after rain. As Swim University explains, this is because the excess water will dilute the chlorine levels in your pool, making it less effective at dealing with bacteria. Rainwater run-off from your pool patio or deck can also introduce an influx of contaminants.

Again, you'll need to test and adjust the chemistry of your pool accordingly, as well as clean out any debris that may have blown into the pool during the storm.

4. Algae build-up

If you've noticed your pool turning green as well as cloudy, pool algae is likely to be the cause. This is a common problem but can be dealt with by giving it a thorough deep clean (although milder cases can be treated with an algaecide).

While cloudy pool water can be unsightly, the good news is that it's possible to clear it with the help of a couple of handy products and correct maintenance.

For more expert advice, read our guide on swimming pool types and swimming pool mistakes to avoid.

Take time to consider which are the best trees for creating privacy in your garden. Hasty purchases could result in a tree which is too large for the plot – or the wrong shape to solve the problem.

It is tempting to opt for a fast fix such as a rapidly growing evergreen which will shoot up and mask the problem with dense growth in a couple of seasons. But bear in mind that this could also exclude valuable light from your garden, restricting the growth of existing plants. It might also shade the rooms in your house, and even cause conflict with the neighbours.

If the issue is with one window which overlooks your property, it may be that a carefully placed single tree will be enough to provide suitable garden screening. Tree shape is a factor, too. Are you looking for a lacy screen of branches to mask an expansive overlooked area? A multi-stemmed tree might solve that problem. Use our selection to choose a privacy tree which will add value and interest to your garden as well as solving a common problem.

1. Banana palm

Best for: screening from above

Overlooked by another house or a block of flats looming above your garden? The huge paddle-shaped leaves of the banana palm act as a living parasol, offering shade and shelter. Although they look like tender plants, these palms will survive cold snaps, although fleecing is a good idea if a prolonged cold snap is forecast. The foliage may die back after frosts.

Cut the plant down to ground level and it should sprout again in late spring. Feed monthly with an all-purpose soluble plant food. Try Musa ‘Red Abyssinian’ for attractive colouring and leaf shape.

2. English holly 

Best for: year-round colour

For an elegant and quintessentially English screen, a holly tree (Ilex aquifolium) makes a great choice for one of the best trees for privacy. Evergreen for year-round privacy, they can be precisely shaped to block unwelcome eyes from a particular spot, or allowed to expand into a larger and more natural shape.

There’s also the bonus of pretty red berries on female trees, as long as they are grown near a male tree.

3. Hornbeam 

Best for: creating a year-round screen

Although this is a deciduous tree, the young stems hang on to their neatly shaped red and gold leaves over the winter months, so you’re always guaranteed some coverage.

Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) can be grown as a tree or a hedge, but it must be pruned in midsummer to keep control of the size. With an ultimate height of 80ft (25m), it is essential to keep on top of cutting back.

4. Silver birch

Best for: light screening

A multi-stemmed silver birch makes a beautiful privacy screen. Its filigree branches with pure white bark and vase shape will let the light through while keeping prying eyes out.

Try Betula utilis jacquemontii ‘Snow Queen’ which will grow in sun or semi shade in most types of well-drained soil and can withstand harsh winters. This tree is frequently recommended by experts as a garden essential. "It is bullet proof," says Michael Buck of Form Plants.

5. Photinia standard tree

Best for: screening above the fence line

Photinia is a dense, evergreen shrub, but it can be bought as a shapely tree grafted on to a clear stem (that’s a long, slender trunk). ‘Red Robin’ (available from Dobies) is a good choice as the young leaves are an attractive scarlet. This can be encouraged by regular, gentle trimming in spring and summer. It has pretty white flowers in April and May.

It typically grows up to 30cm per year, reaching an ultimate height and spread of 16ft (5m). It will grow in full sun or partial shade and is a good choice if you're looking to create a privacy fence.

6. Bay tree

Best for: small garden screening

These evergreen conical-shaped trees lend themselves to garden planter ideas, perhaps to screen off a small seating area. The leathery, evergreen foliage has a wonderful scent, and the little lime green flowers in spring are especially beneficial for bees.

Grow in full sun or partial shade, in a sheltered spot, and if in a container, keep them well-watered in hot, dry spells. Prune to keep the shape and restrict size. They will grow up to 3ft (1m) in a pot, and up to 10ft (3m) in the ground. You'll find plenty more options for the best trees to grow in pots in our dedicated guide too.

7. Thuja Green Giant

Best for: rapid coverage in large gardens

One of the best trees for privacy if you're looking to create dense screening in larger gardens. It can grow to a towering 50-60ft (15-18m) if not tightly controlled with regular pruning (once a year at least).

This evergreen conifer has glossy, aromatic dark green leaves and brown cones. Cut it back in autumn to maintain the shape and size. This is a hardy tree which can cope with cold climates and rugged terrain.

8. Italian cypress 

Best for: extra-tall coverage

If you're searching for the best trees for small gardens, these pencil slim conifers are a practical choice if you need an extra-tall screen in a compact space.

Tough and hardy, with an architectural shape, they look good placed side by side, anywhere that coverage is needed. Ideal for Mediterranean garden ideas, they are drought-tolerant, but container grown ones will need regular watering.

9. Black cherry plum tree

Best for: front garden privacy

A single tree planted in front of a house can perform a double function: creating an attractive focal point while screening the windows from curious passers-by.

Ornamental cherry trees are one of the best options for front gardens, particularly Prunus cerasifera ‘Nigra’ (available from Crocus) which has masses of pale blossom in March and April, on rich purple/chocolate coloured foliage. It’s a medium-sized tree with a pleasing, rounded shape, which grows around 16ft (5m) tall in 20 years. It can cope with pollution in urban gardens and thrives in sun or partial shade in well-draining soil.

10. Western Red Cedar

Best for: a dense boundary screen with a cedar scent

Evergreen Thuja Plicata is a fast growing tree, increasing at around 40-60cm per year. It can make a good alternative to the more problematic Leylandii and is an ideal choice for a fast-growing hedge if you want to create a dense screen along a boundary.

It grows best in full sun or partial shade and typically reaches around 35m in height with a conical shape. You can keep its height in check with regular pruning if you want to use it as more of a hedging plant. It also gives off a lovely cedar scent when you brush past it.

FAQs

How far from your house should you plant a tree for privacy?

This is a really important question before going ahead with purchasing a tree for privacy. You need to weigh up the benefits of screening versus the potential for damage to your property, which can be created by invasive roots or ground shrinkage caused by the tree taking up all the ground water.

That being said, most trees are unlikely to cause many issues, providing you carefully consider the final height and spread of the tree when it will be fully grown.

According to Tony Kirkham, author of The Kew Gardener’s Guide to Growing Trees (available at Amazon), "the general rule of thumb is to work out what the overall height of the tree is when mature and plant it three quarters of its height away from the house."

What type of tree grows fast for privacy? 

Healthy trees grow fastest, so ensure that you buy from a trustworthy source and follow the planting and care instructions closely.

Whether you are planting bare root trees or a more established specimen, watering your new tree regularly for the first couple of years is key. Most garden centres and specialist tree nurseries will be only too happy to offer additional advice if you have never grown a tree before.

What is the fastest growing evergreen for privacy?

Leylandii is one of the fastest growers, but it’s not the prettiest tree, and its vigorous habit is notorious for creating boundary issues. Certain species of eucalyptus can grow up to 9ft (2m) in a single year. The aptly named Thuja Green Giant sprouts 3ft (0.9m) annually, Italian Cypress adds around two feet (0.6m) per year.

Trees can be contained with regular pruning at the right time of year, but it is important to choose one whose proportions won’t take over your garden landscaping ideas.

Before you make your final choice of tree for creating privacy in your garden, make sure you measure your garden, find out which way it faces and what kind of soil type you have, as these are important factors which can influence the tree type.

Whether you are trying to create privacy from a neighbouring property, windows, ugly street furniture or a busy road, gardening expert Tony Kirkham has one final piece of advice: "Don’t be tempted to plant the old-fashioned conifer hedge Leyland Cypress because it is fast growing and cheap to buy," he says. "In the long term it will potentially be problematic and ugly."

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

There could be a few reasons why your hydrangea isn't blooming, and luckily, most can be fixed.

Having had a resurgence over the last few years, hydrangeas are a valuable addition to a planting scheme for their statement structure. But the most appealing feature of these shrubs has to be their giant flower heads in bright blue or pink, or in some varieties, such as 'Annabelle', a dazzling white. So, if yours isn't blooming, you'll likely feel disappointed.

However, in many cases, all it takes is a few adjustments to your hydrangea plant care routine to get those beautiful flowers back. Below, you'll find six things that could be going wrong and how to remedy them.

1. Pruning hydrangeas incorrectly

"One of the most common reasons why hydrangeas fail to flower is incorrect pruning," says Ruth Hayes, former Gardening Editor of Amateur Gardening.

In most cases, hydrangea pruning should be done in late spring, she explains, or even later in colder areas. This is because "the previous year's old flower heads help protect the new growth from frost."

If your hydrangea has failed to flower, Ruth suggests feeding it monthly with sulphate of potash throughout summer, then leaving it unpruned until late next spring.

"When you prune, reduce stems to a healthy pair of leaf buds, then feed with a general-purpose fertiliser, water and mulch over the root area," she adds.

However, do bear in mind that some hydrangeas need pruning after they've finished flowering in late summer – so double check which approach is suitable for your plant.

2. Too much or too little water

Watering plants correctly is fundamental to their health, so if your hydrangea isn't flowering, this could be part of the problem.

As the RHS explains, "shrubs often fail to flower after drought," whether that's from this year or last. Keeping the compost around your hydrangea moist, particularly in periods of dry and sunny spells, can help keep it healthy and flowering well. Mulching is a good way to help the soil retain moisture.

Be careful you don't overwater, though, as this can lead hydrangeas' roots to rot, leaves to drop, and flowers to fail to form. So ensure that the soil around your shrub is well-draining.

If you're growing hydrangeas in pots, raising them up on pot feet can help prevent compost from becoming waterlogged.

Shop these budget-friendly fixes

3. Excessive feeding

Although fertilising plants can be very beneficial in helping them grow strong, too much of a good thing can be detrimental. This is particularly the case if you're using a nitrogen-rich feed, which will encourage plenty of lush green leaves – at the expense of blooms.

Bear in mind that mulches made up of poultry manure or farmyard manure can also be high in nitrogen, as the RHS explains. So, it may be wise to stop using these if you've noticed fewer flowers on your shrubs.

4. Planting your hydrangea in the wrong place

"While hydrangeas prefer protection from hot, direct sun, too much shade will prevent them from forming flower buds. They generally need at least three to four hours of sunlight daily. Too much sun can stress the plant, causing it to conserve energy and not form flowers," says Chris Wood, Head Florist at Waitrose Gardens.

What's more, if your hydrangea is in a very exposed site, it's more likely to succumb to frost damage which can prevent buds from flowering. And speaking of frost – you'll also want to check that the hydrangea varieties you buy are suitable for your region in terms of their hardiness.

If you think yours could benefit from a new position in your plot, take into account the fact that shrubs can take a little time to re-establish. So, don't worry if it takes a year or so to re-flower properly.

5. Letting your hydrangea become pot-bound

Plants grown in containers can become pot-bound, which is where their roots become congested and restricted. This can lead to them suffering from drought and a lack of nutrients, explains the RHS.

If you're having trouble getting your pot-grown hydrangea to bloom, this could be the reason. Re-plant it in a larger pot in autumn, once it has finished flowering.

6. Plant age

According to Chris Wood, hydrangeas can sometimes take one to four years before they bloom reliably while they establish a strong root system. Unfortunately, the only solution is to be a little more patient with the plant.

While it can be very frustrating when your hydrangeas don’t bloom, we hope you can take some comfort in knowing there are many potential reasons – and that it’s usually something you can fix.

For more advice, read our guide on garden design or the best trees for small gardens.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Leaving your garden lights on may feel like an extra layer of security to your home, but it could actually have a serious impact on outdoor wildlife, experts have warned.

From birds to bats, this mistake could put a wide range of species at risk without you even realising, which is why it’s important to turn lights off when they’re not in use.

Below, you’ll find out why this common error is such a bad idea, and the safer garden lighting alternatives you can switch to instead.

Why is it a bad idea to leave your garden lights on overnight?

Whether you leave your garden lights on for added security and to keep your home safe from burglars or simply forget to switch them off, keeping them on overnight can be bad news for wildlife in your garden.

"Some species of bats avoid light areas altogether, while for other animals such as common frogs, artificial light can lure them in. We’ve probably all seen moths flying around a street or security light – becoming exhausted and put at higher risk of predation," says Helen Bostock, Senior Wildlife Specialist at RHS.

She explains that while animals that are most active during dusk, dawn or during the night are obviously most impacted, new evidence has found that day-active wildlife can also be affected.

"Robins, for instance, will keep hunting and singing in lit-up streets, using up vital energy. Birds that prefer to start their migration under cover of dark can become disorientated with our brightly lit cities," she says.

What's more, a study published in the Journal of Biological Conservation found that light pollution is a driver of insect declines, as it affects their movement, foraging, reproduction, and predation.

“Homes must be designed to be wildlife-friendly, from lighting to garden landscaping, to help nature thrive alongside people. Just like turning off the tap when you brush your teeth, if everyone turns a garden light off at night, we'll be making a difference for wildlife," adds Richard Benwell, Chief Executive of Wildlife and Countryside Link.

Which garden lights are the worst for wildlife?

LED lights – particularly those with cooler colour temperatures – are one of the worst culprits of light pollution. If possible, Helen Bostock recommends switching them to a low-intensity, warm white bulb – aim for 2700 Kelvin or lower.

Where to buy wildlife-friendly garden lighting

How can I reduce light pollution in my garden?

To reduce light pollution in your garden and minimise the impact on wildlife, Helen Bostock recommends the following steps:

1. Keep your garden dark: If possible, leave areas of your garden completely dark and include a safe passage across the space.

2. Keep light to a minimum: While you may need to illuminate some areas of your home, such as the front door or security systems, you can reduce the impact by using motion sensors for short periods.

3. Angle your lighting: If possible, angle your lighting downwards or fit a cowl over the top to deflect it.

4. Choose low-intensity solar lights: These will have less impact than harsh, bright LEDs (and are cheaper to run as a bonus).

5. Avoid garden pond lighting: This will help pond life remain undisturbed.

6. Draw your curtains: Don’t forget about the lighting inside your home too. Keep blinds and curtains closed after dark, including on patio doors.

While it might be unrealistic to keep your garden in total darkness every evening, there are a number of ways to reduce your impact – from switching to a warm-colour-temperature bulb to opting for a motion-sensor holder.

For more expert advice on this topic, read our guide on garden lighting laws or take inspiration from these incredible eco homes.

If you love cooking in the sunshine and hosting in the garden, designing an outdoor kitchen should be high on your wish list, saving you from having to go in and out of the house when guests visit in the summer.

From built-in options to affordable standalone units, there are plenty of ways to get creative with this feature and tailor it to both your budget, and garden size.

To find out how you could make your dream outdoor kitchen idea a reality, we asked two experts about the design process, costs, and where to scrimp and spend. We also spoke to a homeowner who created his own from scratch, gathering tips and tricks he learned along the way.

How do I design an outdoor kitchen?

1. The planning stage

Before you get to the fun part – choosing finishes, layouts, and materials – Rupert King, Retail Sales Manager at HEX Living, recommends considering how you genuinely intend to use the space.

Don’t just select something because it aligns with the latest garden trends; he says that "the most successful outdoor kitchens are designed around lifestyle."

With that in mind, have a think about:

• How often the space will be used
• How many people you will typically entertain
• Whether the kitchen will be used in the summer or all-year round
• Exposure to wind, rain and sunlight
• Proximity to the indoor kitchen
• Available utilities and power supply
• Storage requirements
• Shelter and seating arrangements

"Starting with functionality allows every other decision – from layout to appliances – to feel more considered and cohesive," Rupert adds.

When Sam Dimmock from Hertfordshire set about designing his outdoor kitchen, location was a top priority in the planning stage, and he decided to place it in a suntrap spot in his garden. “While I would have liked to add a pergola for when it’s raining, it would have blocked the sunlight.”

2. Choosing the layout

Getting the layout right in your outdoor kitchen is key, especially if you're working with a smaller space. If you don't feel confident, it's worth working with a professional – whether that's a landscaper, kitchen designer, or garden architect – to help you get the most out of this new addition.

"The best outdoor kitchens are designed to encourage interaction rather than separate the cook from guests. Creating clearly defined zones for cooking, dining and relaxing helps the space feel organised while maintaining a natural social flow," says Rupert King.

"Island layouts and integrated seating work particularly well because they allow guests to gather comfortably around the cooking area, making the experience more interactive and informal."

As an avid BBQer, Sam Dimmock designed his layout around his outdoor ovens. “I ensured there was enough space to fit my Kamado Egg BBQ, rotisserie, and different grills, as well as storage for utensils, cleaning equipment, and firelighters.”

3. Selecting the materials

Your outdoor kitchen needs to be hardy enough to withstand whatever weather conditions the UK throws at it – whether that's torrential rain, six-inch snow, or baking sunshine. With that in mind, ensure your worktop materials, cabinets, and worktops are fully weatherproof and, where possible, come with a strong warranty or guarantee.

Rupert King's top recommendation is porcelain, which is highly resistant to UV exposure, moisture, stains, and temperature fluctuations. While natural stone and timber can look aesthetically pleasing and full of character, he warns that they typically require more maintenance and ongoing care.

"Outdoor kitchens face very different environmental conditions to indoor spaces, so durability should carry just as much weight as appearance," he adds.

As a budget-friendly alternative to traditional worktops, Sam Dimmock carried his porcelain paving slabs up onto the countertops, creating a seamless – and affordable – appearance in his outdoor kitchen.

"At some point I do want to add a granite worktop, but the porcelain works well for now," he says. "I chose stainless steel built-in cabinet doors, as they are durable, weatherproof and match my BBQ."

Where do I spend and save on an outdoor kitchen?

While it can be possible to create an outdoor kitchen on a budget, some areas aren't worth scrimping on, according to Rupert King.

Where to spend

• Robust worktops
• High-quality cabinetry
• Good garden lighting
• Power supply
• Metal parts
• Reliable appliances

Where to save

• Accessories
• Styling pieces
• Secondary appliances

Shop these outdoor kitchen accessories

How much does an outdoor kitchen cost?

An outdoor kitchen can cost anywhere between £300 and £40,000, according to Joanne Bull, Marketing Manager for KönigOutdoor.

We appreciate this is a wide range, but she says it will depend on whether you choose a simple brick-built unit, or go all out on a design-led kitchen with integrated appliances and bespoke cabinets.

How much space do you need to add an outdoor kitchen?

"We have installed outdoor kitchens on small rooftop terraces to sprawling country gardens, so don’t be put off if it’s not going in a large garden," says Joanne Bull. "A 3m x 3m space is adequate for a compact, yet comfortable setup with a cooking appliance, cabinetry and worktops."

What are the common mistakes people make when designing an outdoor kitchen?

Let’s take a look at some of the most common mistakes people make when designing an outdoor kitchen, so you can avoid them:

1. Not researching the materials enough: Your outdoor kitchen needs to withstand all sorts of weather conditions throughout the year, so you can't choose just any old material. It needs to be durable, weatherproof, and low maintenance – otherwise, you'll end up replacing it a year later.

2. Not allowing enough storage and prep space: Joanne Bull says many people overlook this, resulting in, “endless ferrying of plates, utensils, and ingredients back and forth to the indoor kitchen,” which defeats the whole point of this feature.

3. Poor positioning: This could look like "a lack of shelter from wind, a drinks fridge placed in direct sunlight, or smoke drifting straight into open bifold doors."

There’s a lot to consider when designing an outdoor kitchen, but with proper planning and the right core materials, you’ll be on track to creating something beautiful, long-lasting, and built for making memories.

For more practical advice and design inspiration, browse through these brilliant garden bar ideas or learn how to build a garden room.

Cheap, permeable and easy to install, it’s unsurprising that some people are tempted by the idea of a pea shingle driveway – but is it really a good long-term solution for your home?

While it’s certainly possible to use this budget-friendly stone for your driveway idea, experts say the answer can often be no – despite the fact that has a number of advantages.

Below, we explain what it is, why it can sometimes be problematic, and the alternatives that driveway experts would recommend instead.

Can I use pea shingle on my driveway?

First things first, let’s explain what pea shingle actually is. Nicole Bennett, Product Lead at Marshalls, explains that these small, rounded stones are usually between 10 to 20mm in size and have a natural appearance that complements traditional and character homes. It's low-cost, naturally permeable and creates a soft aesthetic.

As previously mentioned, you can install pea shingle on your gravel driveway (and many people do!), but there are some disadvantages that are worth being aware of:

1. Movement under vehicles: Because of its rounded shape, Nathan Daly, Product and Training Manager at Resin Mill, explains that it can move around beneath your car – particularly when the wheels are being turned. So, unless you fancy kicking it back every time you leave the house, you’ll probably want to avoid this driveway material.

2. Rutting and displacement: Over time, pea shingle may spread, gather in low spots, or create tracks, which can look messy and unsightly. This can also lead to it migrating onto paths and roads, giving you extra work to tidy up – especially if your driveway is on a slope.

3. Not ideal for wheelchair, pram, and bike access: Unlike bound or compact surfaces, Nathan warns that pea shingle can be harder to walk on or push wheels across. This could also become dangerous for those who are less steady on their feet, adds Andy McLaughlin, Sales & Operations Director at RF Paving.

4. High maintenance: From pulling up weeds from gravel to topping it up, pea shingle requires more maintenance than you might first imagine.

"Weeds can easily grow within the shingle, especially if a membrane isn’t used to prevent them penetrating from the sub base," says Andy. "As well as using membranes to prevent weed growth, ground stabilisation grids can be used to contain most of the shingle, to help minimise the displacement. However, the surface will always be prone to displacement, often exposing the grid."

What's a good alternative to pea shingle?

If you're looking for low-maintenance and stable alternatives to pea shingle driveways, Nicole Bennett recommends the following hard landscaping options:

1. Concrete block paving: As one of the most popular driveway solutions, concrete block paving is highly durable and comes in a range of colours, textures, and laying patterns, making it ideal for both modern and traditional homes.

2. Porcelain paving: Not only is porcelain a low-upkeep option and resistant to staining and weathering, but Nicole says its premium appearance is driving its popularity for driveways and outdoor spaces.

3. Natural stone paving: Whether laid as cobbles or block paving, natural stone can be used in a variety of ways and produces a “timeless, high-end finish” that will last a long time and require little maintenance.

That’s not to say you can’t have a loose stone look; it can actually offer a number of benefits – from the added security of the sound underfoot to good grip during icy and wet conditions. It's also a relatively cheap driveway idea. However, you'll need to choose angular crushed gravel, which will help prevent movement, displacement, and rutting.

Shop these gravel driveway essentials

"While pea shingle offers aesthetic and drainage benefits, it’s important to balance these against the maintenance and practicality considerations associated with loose gravel surfaces," concludes Nicole Bennett.

To help you make the best decision for your home, read our guide on driveway costs or take inspiration from these modern driveway ideas.

Tiles have long been a go-to for patio floors, but designers are now using them in far more creative – and beautiful – ways outdoors. From tiled tabletops to outdoor shower walls, the possibilities go well beyond what you'd find underfoot.

And it makes sense. The same qualities that make tiles so hardwearing and handsome inside the home – their texture, colour and permanence – translate brilliantly to outdoor spaces too.

Whether you're planning a full outdoor kitchen or simply looking for a finishing touch that elevates your garden design, these outdoor tile ideas might just convince you to think beyond the patio.

1. Create an alfresco tiled bathing nook for an outdoor soak

Tucked beneath a sheltered canopy and wrapped in inky blue metro tiles, this beautiful bathing nook is the perfect spot for winding down on a warm summer's evening.

Jamie Robb, creative director at Marlborough Tiles, describes the inspiration behind this space: "There’s something undeniably restorative about stepping outside and immersing yourself in water, surrounded by the sounds and scents of nature. Here, tiles play a subtle but important role, shaping the mood through colour and texture.

"Gentle greens soften into the landscape, blurring the line between built space and garden, while deeper blues bring a sense of calm and depth – reminiscent of a night sky just beginning to appear. The result is a space that feels both grounding and indulgent, designed not just for function but for experience."

You don't need a grand garden to pull off something similar at home. Even a sheltered corner or a simple lean-to can work brilliantly as a spot for an outdoor freestanding bath. Keep tiles dark and glossy to add depth to a smaller space, and layer in natural textures around them for relaxed and lived-in feel.

2. Add a tiled outdoor shower for a touch of everyday luxury

Once you've installed an outdoor shower, it's hard to imagine a summer without one. They're ideal for rinsing off after a dip in the swimming pool or cooling down on a hot day. Plus, when it's tiled like this one, it becomes a proper garden feature in its own right.

These rich, glossy green metro tiles work so well here because they echo the surrounding planting. For a similar look at home, keep the footprint compact and the colour confident. A small tiled platform underfoot and a tiled back panel are really all you need.

Antique brass or copper fixtures will complement earthy greens and blues beautifully, and surrounding the structure with generous planting will help it bed into the garden naturally.

3. Pair large-format tiles with sleek subway designs for a contemporary look

One of the most effective tricks in any tiler's toolkit is mixing tile sizes and formats, and this outdoor kitchen is a great example of how well it can work. Large-format floor tiles anchor the dining area, while classic white subway tiles line the kitchen walls – two very different styles that sit comfortably side by side because the palette stays consistent throughout.

The key is letting one element – such as the flooring – take the lead and keeping everything else simple around it. A neutral grout colour used consistently throughout will also help tie the different formats together and stop the overall scheme from feeling busy.

4. Add a creative tiled splashback to an outdoor kitchen

A tiled splashback is one of the best opportunities you have to inject some real personality into an outdoor kitchen. This one holds its own beautifully against the surrounding stonework and rolling landscape, the warm patterned tiles and deep blue accents adding character without ever tipping into excess.

Maria D'Arráez, director at Tile of Spain UK explains the appeal: "Just like an indoor kitchen, an outdoor splashback allows homeowners to be creative with pattern, colour and finish, whilst also helping to create a distinct cooking zone in the garden. A neutral palette remains timeless while patterned or brightly coloured tiles add visual interest without overwhelming the space."

If you're working with natural materials elsewhere, such as stone, timber and brick, a patterned splashback is a lovely way to introduce decorative detail without disrupting the overall design.

5. Use tiles on a tabletop for a stylish alfresco dining space

As budget patio ideas go, a tiled tabletop punches well above its weight. It looks considered and crafted, but is far simpler to achieve than it appears. This tablescape is a lovely example. The soft, patterned tiles sit so naturally against the warm stone wall behind that the whole thing feels effortlessly designed.

Jamie Robb, creative director at Marlborough Tiles, describes the appeal: "A handcrafted tabletop becomes a focal point for shared meals, its pattern catching the shifting light throughout the day. Soft greens and layered tones echo the surrounding landscape, allowing the space to feel rooted in its setting."

These statement pieces work just as well on a smaller scale too. A tiled bistro table for two can be every bit as impactful as a full dining table, and is a much simpler project to take on. Look for tiles with a handmade, slightly tactile quality, as they tend to feel far more alive outdoors than flatter, more uniform finishes.

6. Make tiles the centrepiece of a relaxed garden gathering

Who says outdoor entertaining has to mean a formal dining table? This laid-back setup – complete with a tiled coffee table and sideboard for drinks and grazing boards – is the kind of scene that makes a summer evening feel extra special.

These glossy teal tiles by Marlborough Tiles tie the two pieces together beautifully, giving the whole arrangement a cohesion that stops it feeling too makeshift.

Maria D'Arráez explains why tiles work so well in this kind of setting: "An outdoor kitchen island is a great opportunity to be adventurous with colour, texture and design. Tiles help to soften a space and make it feel more inviting."

It's a surprisingly achievable look too. A basic wooden workbench or potting table tiled on the top and front becomes an instant garden bar, and a low wooden coffee table treated to the same finish pulls the whole thing together.

Recreate the look in your own garden

7. Add a striking tiled fireplace to your outdoor scheme

An outdoor fireplace is already a pretty compelling addition to a garden, but when it's clad in decorative tiles like these, it becomes something else entirely. These textured tiles in a warm terracotta tone create a surface that's almost sculptural, giving the fireplace a real sense of presence even when it isn't lit.

What makes this work so well is the commitment to it. The tiles run all the way to the top of the chimney breast, turning what could have been a simple garden fireplace into a focal point for the whole space. Harriet Goodacre from Topps Tiles makes a strong case for thinking vertically when it comes to outdoor tiles.

"It instantly makes the space feel more considered and curated," Harriet explains. "Vertical tiling can also work surprisingly well in smaller gardens as it helps draw the eye around the space, creating key focal points that don't take up any extra room."

If you're planning something similar at home, don't be tempted to tile just the surround and leave the rest plain. Taking the tiles higher gives the whole structure the weight and drama it deserves.

8. Add a pop of colour to a greenhouse with bright floor tiles

According to Harriet Goodacre, tiles can do a lot of work in unexpected outdoor spaces: "Rather than sticking purely to large patio areas, consider using your outdoor floor tiles in unexpected ways – even smaller touches can have a big impact and completely change the feel of a space."

A garden room or greenhouse is a perfect candidate. Take this gorgeous space designed by Baked Tiles. The floor doesn't need to be too vibrant to make an impact. The choice of pattern is delicate and the colours muted, but the effect is still striking.

If you're planning something similar, look for encaustic-style or cement-effect tiles with a traditional repeat pattern, and consider running a contrasting border around the edge as this one does.

9. Go bold with your choice of pathway tile

Front path ideas don't get much more charming than this. The soft blue and grey patterned tiles draw the eye all the way to the front door, turning what could have been a purely functional strip of garden into an inviting feature that really enhances this property's kerb appeal.

The bordered edge is what really elevates it. Without it, the same tiles would read as a simple tiled path. With it, the whole scheme feels much more intentional. If you're planning something similar, take your time choosing the border tile, as it does a lot of the heavy lifting.

10. Zone an outdoor wellness space with colourful tiles

Zoning a garden doesn't have to involve heavy screens or purpose-built dividers. A change in tile colour or finish can do the job just as effectively, and often look better in the process.

Here, rough terracotta underfoot and glossy teal zellige on the walls create two very distinct surfaces that pull the bathing space away from the rest of the garden without any physical barrier at all.

Maria D'Arráez, director of Tile of Spain UK, explains the thinking behind this technique: "Tiles can be used to frame seating areas or help with zoning. A tiled feature wall can completely transform a corner of a garden, adding depth whilst also acting as an interesting decorative element."

11. Inject vibrancy into every step of your patio

Garden steps are one of those features that tend to get finished in the most practical material to hand, which is a shame because they're one of the best opportunities in the garden to do something really interesting with tiles.

"Installing decorative tiled details around seating areas, outdoor bars or even on the vertical face of garden steps can instantly add personality without overwhelming the space," explains Harriet Goodacre.

If you love this look, a monochrome encaustic pattern is a great starting point. It's graphic enough to make an impact but versatile enough to work with almost any garden style.

And if the steps lead directly into the house, Jamie Robb of Marlborough Tiles suggests considering continuing the same tile inside too – "letting the outdoors spill in creates a sense of openness and flow that makes both spaces feel larger and more connected."

12. Use a tiled feature wall to add interest to a small patio

A tiled feature wall is one of the best things you can do with a small patio, and this compact courtyard garden is a case in point. A floor-to-ceiling run of deep cobalt zellige tiles gives the back wall a real presence, the glossy surface catching the light and bouncing it back into the space in a way that makes it feel far bigger than it is.

The trick is to keep everything else simple and let the wall do the work. A tiled bench in a similar colour, as seen here, is a lovely finishing touch that echoes the feature wall without tipping the space into too much.

Selecting the right materials for your outdoor tiling project

Before falling for a tile, it's worth making sure it's built for the outdoors. Oli Webb, director of Cullifords, points to two materials worth knowing about: "Natural stone, such as granite, limestone and marble, provides a timeless and organic aesthetic, adding depth and character to any setting. Meanwhile, ceramic stone offers a sleek, modern alternative with the added benefits of low maintenance, water resistance and exceptional durability."

Porcelain is another firm favourite and can be a great way to make outdoor surfaces or patios look expensive. It's hardwearing, unfazed by the British weather and handles everything from summer heat to winter frost without complaint.

Whatever material you settle on, slip resistance is not something to gloss over. As Harriet Goodacre, interiors and tiling expert at Topps Tiles, explains: "Slip resistance is measured using different standards, including R ratings and PTV (Pendulum Test Value). Ideally you want an outdoor tile that's rated R11 and above or 36 PTV and above. It's no good having a tile that looks fantastic but becomes slippery in the rain and a safety risk."

“I’d also think carefully about colour choice," Harriet adds. "Whilst pale tiles look great, they’ll naturally show more dirt. Darker shades often don’t show marks up in the same way meaning they require less regular cleaning.”

If you're planning to DIY any of these outdoor tile projects, it's worth swotting up on drilling into tiles before you tackle any vertical surfaces.

And whatever the project, don't underestimate the importance of tile spacers – consistent grout lines make a significant difference to the finished result, particularly outdoors where any unevenness tends to show more than it would inside.

If you're thinking of creating a wellness zone as part of your garden landscaping ideas, then including a sauna in your set-up is generally considered a must-have.

And while installing one outdoors is partially similar to putting one inside your home, there are certain differences that you need to bear in mind to ensure a safe and suitable construction.

The good news is, in some cases it's not as complicated as you might think. And with plenty of options from pre-fabricated to bespoke to choose from, these are the six main things to consider if you're splashing out on a garden sauna.

1. You may need to arrange for groundworks

If you're adding a standalone or bespoke sauna to your garden, "the first thing to get right is the foundations," says Jake Newport, CEO of Finnmark Sauna. "In most cases, a sauna can sit on a solid concrete slab, paving base or properly built decking structure, so it’s a process that's much closer to foundations for garden rooms, than having to dig extension foundations.

"The important thing is that the base is level and well-drained," he explains, "so the structure stays stable over time and moisture doesn’t build up underneath.”

"Installing an outdoor sauna is generally very straightforward," adds Rasmus Tipp, marketing director at Iglucraft. "Most saunas simply require a stable, level base such as concrete pads, compacted gravel or a slab foundation, depending on the size and model."

2. Electrics, plumbing and ventilation will need to be considered

Your service requirements for an outdoor sauna will initially depend on the type of sauna heater you choose.

“With electric sauna heaters, you’ll need a dedicated electrical circuit installed by a qualified electrician because the heaters draw far more power than a normal household plug can handle," explains Jake Newport.

“But even with wood-fired saunas, some people still choose to run electrics for lighting, controls or additional features inside the sauna," he notes. That said, if you don't want to run electricity to your outdoor sauna, you could do without it if you opt for a wood-burning sauna stove."

“The main additional consideration with wood-fired saunas," advises Jake, "is the flue system. That needs to be installed properly with safe clearances around the chimney and surrounding materials.

“Plumbing for an outdoor sauna is usually much simpler than people expect because saunas themselves are dry-heat environments," he continues

“You don’t generally need permanent water lines or drainage for the sauna itself, which makes installation much more straightforward than a steam room or spa setup."

Instead, all you need is a fresh bucket of water to pour over the hot stones, but this could come from an outdoor tap located on your home's exterior walls, rather than inside the sauna itself.

Shop for sauna accessories

3. Planning permission and placement

Unless you're planning on including a larger-than-life wellness complex in your garden, most outdoor saunas should fall outside of planning permission requirements.

"In many cases, outdoor saunas fall within permitted development, meaning planning permission is not required," confirms Rasmus Tipp. "However, this can vary depending on the size, height and location of the sauna, as well as whether the property is listed or located within a conservation area. It is always recommended to check with your local authority before installation."

Regulations regarding proximity to boundaries and neighbours can vary between councils, "but generally outdoor saunas should be positioned with consideration for neighbouring properties and boundaries," notes Rasmus, "meaning factors such as overall height, proximity to fences and ventilation requirements may influence placement."

"There isn’t one fixed distance rule that applies in every situation, but spacing is important both practically and from a planning perspective," agrees Jake Newport.

“I also find that saunas tend to work best when they have a bit of breathing space around them," he adds. "If it’s pushed tightly into the corner of a garden, it can feel more like storage than somewhere you genuinely want to spend time.”

4. Can you put a sauna inside an outbuilding?

If you have an existing garden room (potentially with a bathroom) or outbuilding of any kind, you may be keen to expand its usability by installing a sauna inside it, but is this possible?

“Both work really well, and it often depends on how someone wants the overall space to function," says Erin Hickman, designer at Finnmark Sauna.

“A standalone sauna creates a very traditional experience because there’s that real connection with the outdoors. Stepping out into the cold air between sauna rounds is a huge part of what people enjoy about the sauna experience in the UK,” she expands.

"But, at the same time, we’re seeing far more people incorporate saunas into larger garden buildings or bespoke wellness spaces. That might be within a garden room or a more complete outdoor setup with changing areas, showers or cold therapy spaces alongside it.

“With bespoke outdoor saunas especially, there’s much more flexibility in how the sauna is designed around the space available," continues Erin. "We can adapt layouts, glazing, benching and proportions so the sauna feels fully integrated rather than something separate that’s been added afterwards.”

5. Maintenance and upkeep for garden saunas

Unlike indoor saunas, as outdoor saunas are exposed to the elements, there is naturally a bit more maintenance involved – as there would be with any outbuilding such as a garden room or even shed.

However, as is often the case, you get what you pay for, and investing in a quality product will make your investment longer-lasting.

"Built using carefully selected thermo-treated timber and traditional craftsmanship techniques, saunas from reputable companies are created to withstand changing climates while ageing beautifully over time," explains Rasmus Tipp.

"The unique three-layer timber construction of Iglucraft saunas for example is designed with air gaps and integrated insulation, to enhance thermal performance whilst creating a soft, organic texture that enriches the atmosphere inside."

Caring for the internal features of an outdoor wooden sauna is the same as an indoor one, and, again, looking after the timber and keeping the sauna properly ventilated makes a big difference over time.

“Externally, some people choose to treat the timber periodically to maintain the original colour," notes Jake Newport, "while others prefer to let it weather naturally.

“It’s also worth keeping the area around the sauna clear and checking for any signs of rodents or nesting creatures," he adds, "particularly around the base, ventilation gaps and any service entry points.”

And of course, the point of maintenance and upkeep of your outdoor sauna is to make sure it has longevity.

“A properly built sauna using durable timber and good ventilation and repeated weather-proofing should hold up extremely well outdoors for decades to come," advises Jake, "and like any outdoor structure, regular maintenance helps preserve both the appearance and performance of the sauna over time, particularly with exposure to changing weather conditions throughout the year.”

6. Cost for outdoor saunas

As an outdoor sauna is generally more sizeable and requires some structural work to install it, costs are of course more variable than an indoor cabin. But by how much?

"Our smaller barrel saunas start from around £3,300, which gives people a really authentic outdoor sauna experience without needing a huge amount of space," advises Jake Newport.

“From there, prices increase depending on the design, glazing, heater choice and how bespoke the setup becomes. Larger cabin saunas and more integrated wellness spaces tend to start from around £10,000.”

However, if you are looking for an authentic experience, the extra spend can be worth it he notes.

"A well-built sauna won’t just last better outdoors, it also changes the quality of the sauna experience itself. The quality of the heat comes down to details like insulation, airflow, timber choice and the heater itself. Those are the things that create the soft, even heat and proper löyly that Finnish saunas are known for."

Make sure you also factor in groundworks and any extension of services such as electrics when budgeting for an outdoor sauna, as it is these elements that may increase your budget unexpectedly if you haven't allowed for them upfront.

FAQs

What style of sauna should I choose for my garden?

“Choosing an outdoor sauna comes down to two things," says Erin Hickman. "How you want to use the sauna, and how it sits within the garden itself.

“For gardens with softer planting and a more natural feel, such as cottage gardens, barrel saunas work beautifully because the curved shape sits very comfortably within greenery and feels rooted in traditional Nordic sauna culture.

“In smaller or more modern gardens, cube saunas tend to work really well because the cleaner lines feel more aligned with modern landscaping," she suggests. They work particularly well in more compact gardens or contemporary outdoor spaces.

“For those wanting something more architectural in feel, cabin saunas give you much more flexibility with glazing, proportions and internal layout," continues Erin. "They also allow for more spacious layouts and longer social sauna sessions.

“Each style offers something slightly different, so it’s less about one being better than another and more about finding the sauna that feels most natural within the space and how someone wants to use it.”

What outdoor sauna designs are popular?

“Outdoors, barrel saunas remain especially popular because they’re the style many people first experience at public saunas and they have a strong connection to more traditional sauna culture," says Erin Hickman. "As sauna and cold water wellness becomes more mainstream in the UK, people are increasingly looking to recreate some of that experience at home.

“We’re also seeing more interest in creating wider wellness spaces around the sauna itself, whether that’s adding cold plunges, outdoor showers or simple areas to slow down and relax afterwards.”

Could I put an outdoor sauna inside my garage?

"Garages or garage conversions can work very well for indoor saunas, especially if they’re properly insulated and ventilated," confirms Erin Hickman.

“A lot of people like using garages because they offer more flexibility with layout, and usually make it easier to install the required electrics. They can also create a slightly more separate, retreat-like feeling away from the main part of the house," she adds.

“However, the key consideration is making sure the environment will be able to handle the moisture.”

With such a wide variety of sauna designs available, it makes them suitable for all different styles of garden. So whether you're looking at creating a secret wellness space in the corner of a garden, or including a hot tub and sauna on your patio, there's no reason why you can't put wellbeing at the centre of your garden design.

Introducing a tree to a small garden will bring many benefits. As well as being a strong focal point, trees create dappled shade, attract wildlife, and clean the air. Plus, with their ever-changing foliage, blossom and fruits, there is always something new to look at as the seasons roll around.

When considering small garden ideas, however, planting a tree might not be at the forefront of your mind. In fact, the thought may leave you feeling a little apprehensive.

Yes, some are definitely best left to bigger gardens, but if you choose carefully, there are plenty of trees which can enhance even a tiny courtyard without causing problems by getting too tall or bushy. So why not factor one in? We've rounded up the best trees for small gardens to make it easy for you to find the perfect variety for your space.

1. Olive

Olives are slow growing, reaching up to 6.5ft (2m) in 8–10 years, which makes them perfectly suited to smaller spaces. The silvery grey foliage stays intact year-round and they will thrive in a container, making them a great option if you're looking for a tree to grow in pots.

When planting, add a spade of horticultural grit to the soil to ensure good drainage. They can be 'standards' – that is, trees with a bare trunk and a shaped rounded top, or for a less formal effect, they can be left to grow irregularly.

Olive trees need a sheltered spot to survive the winter. If you live in an exposed area, or your garden is in a frost pocket, wrap them up in some horticultural fleece if freezing conditions are forecast. Between April and October, feed olive trees once a month with a tomato feed. And keep them hydrated during the summer, watering until the liquid flows from the bottom of the pot. If they start to shed their leaves, a drink of water, a light prune and some food should solve the problem.

They'll add a lovely Mediterranean garden idea to your outdoor seating space too.

2. Silver birch

It is hard to beat the pale beauty of a silver birch tree and the good news is that there are varieties which are suited to smaller gardens.

Betula utilis jacqumontii (available from Gardening Express) is a medium-sized tree with an elegant, slender shape. It will grow to approximately 23x11.5ft (7x3.5m) over 20 years. Hardy and suited to all kinds of soil and conditions, it has airy green leaves in the spring and yellowy brown catkins, then turns a glorious golden yellow in autumn. Once the leaves have fallen, the snowy white bark is revealed, which is a stunning feature in itself.

The tree is easy to care for: simply prune any dead or damaged branches in late summer to midwinter. If the bark looks grubby, it can be washed with plain water and a sponge.

Jeremy Hall, Group Plant Buyer at Squire's Garden Centres particularly recommends the 'Snow Queen' variety – it "has very pronounced white bark from an early age," and "also encourages bio-diversity as it supports an array of insects that birds love."

Silver birch trees can be planted in the ground as bare root trees between November and February, providing the ground is frost-free. Container versions can be planted at any time. Keep the area around them weed-free for the first few years.

3. Amelanchier 

These small deciduous trees, also known as Juneberry and serviceberry, have clusters of dreamy white star-shaped flowers on soft copper-coloured foliage in the spring. The leaves then turn to dramatic fiery reds and vivid orange in autumn.

Try Amelanchier lamarkii 'Ballerina', as this variety will not grow taller or spread wider than 13–16.5ft (4–5m). Or, as recommended by Squire’s Garden Centres, opt for 'Snow Flakes', which grows to a similar height. They add it is "covered in snowy white flowers in spring that are loved by bees," then "has glossy reddish purple berries which the birds adore followed by a blaze of autumn colour."

Despite the delicate blossom, these are hardy trees, which can cope with damp conditions and most soil types, although they do prefer clay or sandy soil.

4. Magnolia

The dramatic over-sized tulip-shaped blossoms in spring make the magnolia a real statement tree in your garden landscaping.

A variety such as Magnolia x soulangeana has flushed pink flowers. The neat, rounded shape means that it suits smaller spaces, and it will make a splash if you're looking for new front garden ideas. Expect it to grow to about 20ft (6m) tall with a spread of 13ft (4m) over 20 years.

These trees need full sun or partial shade and moist conditions. Avoid exposed areas, as a frost can ruin the display of blossom, turning the pretty petals brown. When planting, water well for the first few months, and during any dry spells in summer. A rabbit guard might be necessary if you live somewhere rural.

5. Crab apple

A compact crab apple tree can light up a small garden. In spring, it has beautiful clouds of pretty blossom. In autumn, it produces a profusion of tiny, richly coloured fruits, in shades of scarlet, yellow, gold and red and it has attractively coloured leaves, too.

The height of these trees can vary widely, so check carefully before you buy. Smaller ones include malus 'Butterball' and 'Wisley Crab' which can reach a height of around 13ft (4m). Malus x zumi is a pretty rounded tree with golden fruit.

Plant them in a sunny site, in moist but not wet soil. In winter, remove any damaged branches, or ones that cross over each other. A good budget small garden idea is to plant a less expensive bare root variety between November to March, while container grown trees can go in at any time.

6. Acer

If you love a riot of autumn colour, then an acer is a must. Perfect for Japanese garden ideas, they will introduce a pop of blazing orange, red, or a rich pink, and once the gorgeous leaves have fallen, many have ornamental bark which makes a lovely feature.

There are many different types to choose from, but Acer palmatum 'Orange Dream' is a good choice as it is a dense, small tree which grows to 13ft (4m) tall over 20 years. Acers prefer partial shade – the sun can scorch their leaves – and they will grow happily in containers or in the ground.

For pot grown trees, use ericaceous compost to plant them in, as this ensures a more vibrant foliage colour. Avoid banking up the soil in a volcano effect around the bough, as this may encourage disease. Acers rarely need pruning, making them perfect for low-maintenance gardens.

7. Ornamental cherry

A confetti of pink or white petals in spring is the hallmark of cherry trees, and there are some very pretty smaller varieties which suit a compact space, including courtyard gardens.

Try Prunus yedoensis for its weeping branches and romantic white almond-scented blossom which is loved by bees and butterflies. It will reach around 10ft (3m) tall in 10 years. Another option is the cherry 'Pink Shell' (available from Crocus) which has pastel pink flowers which turn to white in April, contrasting beautifully with its light green leaves. And, it won't grow beyond 11.5ft (3.5m).

Ornamental cherry trees prefer full sun and moist, well-drained soil of any type. Once established, they are very low maintenance. The most difficult decision is choosing which variety to go for!

8. Chinese dogwood

Known for their show-stopping displays of flowers in June, the Chinese dogwood – or Cornus kousa – delivers throughout the seasons, with pretty autumnal foliage and an unusual pink fruit shaped like a strawberry.

Not every variety is suitable for a limited space, so check carefully before buying. For tiny gardens, a dwarf dogwood, such as Cornus kousa 'Angyo Dwarf' will only reach 4–5ft (1.2–1.5m) tall, but other varieties can grow as tall as 26ft (8m). These trees need full sun or partial shade, and they prefer a moist, free-draining neutral to acid soil.

9. Rowan

Rowan trees, otherwise known as mountain ash, will give good height and privacy – perfect if you're on the lookout for garden screening ideas.

With their clusters of berries in autumn, they're ideal for attracting birds. Try the Sorbus vilmorinii variety, which has froths of summertime blossom, followed by pinkish berries which fade to white as fall turns into winter. It will eventually grow to 13x13ft (4x4m).

10. Hawthorn

Commonly seen in hedgerows in the English countryside, the tree-forming variety of hawthorn makes a beautiful addition to a garden and will welcome in wildlife.

The RHS suggests Crataegus persimilis ‘Prunifolia’ due to its compact growth, dark and glossy foliage, and white flowers followed by crimson berries and fall colour. It will grow to a height of 16.5ft (5m).

What's more, it's a hardy tree, and will grow well in all kinds of conditions including exposed and damp sites.

11. Cotoneaster

Whilst some varieties of cotoneaster are shrub-like in form, cotoneaster 'Hybridus Pendulus' is a weeping small tree, with elegant branches that form a dome shape.

Plus, it's evergreen, so the glossy, deep green leaves will offer interest and colour to your garden all year round. It grows to an ultimate height of around 6.5ft (2m) after 20 years and can even be grown in a pot.

With an abundance of red berries, it's a good option if you want to attract birds to your garden.

FAQs

What is the best evergreen tree for a small garden?

Looking for a small tree that will add a boost of greenery to your garden come winter? Try these evergreen varieties:

• If you like a more formal look, then evergreen topiary makes a great choice for small gardens. Try bay, holly, or Portuguese laurel. 'The shapes can be so versatile and different,' says Chris Bonnett of GardeningExpress.co.uk. 'These trees are also great in pairs for placing either side of a patio, a path or a set of stairs.'
• The RHS suggests Photinia x fraseri 'Red Robin', which grows to 13–16ft (4–5m) and has glossy red leaves and white blooms.
• Cotoneaster 'Hybridus Pendulus', as mentioned above is another lovely evergreen choice. For variegated leaves, try the semi-evergreen 'Juliette'.

What's the best way to plant a small tree?

1. Water the tree first in the container you bought it in.
2. Dig a square-shaped hole that is twice as large as the tree's rootball and soil. It is important that the hole is deep and wide enough for the tree's roots to spread out.
3. Put a 20 litre bag of John Innes No.3 compost into the hole and work it into the soil.
4. Release the tree from its pot, taking great care not to damage the roots. Place it in the planting hole.
5. Refill the hole, making sure that the tree is planted the same depth as it was in its pot.
6. Press the soil around the tree down firmly.
7. Water around the tree with a full can. Keep the tree well-watered, until it is firmly established.

Container grown-trees can be planted year round, but it's best to avoid doing this when it's particularly hot in summer as they will require lots of watering to ensure they become well established. A good garden irrigation system can help with this.

For bare root varieties, October and November are the ideal months for planting. The temperature and level of moisture in the soil at this time are optimum for encouraging roots to establish and regenerate. This is also the time when bare root varieties are typically available from garden centres and nurseries, offering a wide choice and lower prices than mature pot-grown trees.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Caring for hydrangeas in pots is simple and a great way to add stunning colour and structure to a patio or deck. And they complement all types of garden styles – from cottage gardens to modern plots.

If you're already up to speed on how to grow hydrangeas, you'll know that these plants thrive in organically rich soil that doesn't dry out in summer. For this reason, they are generally happiest planted directly into the ground, as containers can dry out much quicker.

However, that doesn't mean to say you can't still create a beautiful container display with these blooms. You just need to ensure that you give them the right care, pick your compost carefully, and position them in the right place. Some varieties are more suitable for these conditions too. Our guide explains all you need to know about caring for hydrangeas in pots.

Where should you position a potted hydrangea in your garden?

Whether you're growing hydrangeas in pots or planting them straight into the ground as part of your garden landscaping ideas, they do best in dappled shade. For that reason, avoid placing your potted hydrangea in a south-facing position that gets lots of sun all day.

If you don't have these conditions in your garden, try to place your potted hydrangea somewhere that gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon – this will help prevent the soil from drying out.

The beauty of growing a hydrangea in a pot, however, is that it's easy to move it a different spot in your garden. If it's not thriving in its current position, look for a shadier spot elsewhere on your patio or garden path.

What compost should you use when caring for hydrangeas in pots?

"The best potting compost for shrubby plants is one with a high proportion of loam, such as John Innes No.3," says prominent garden expert John Negus, a regular writer for Amateur Gardening.

For hydrangeas, the RHS recommends using a mix of two parts of John Innes No.3 (available at Amazon) and one-part peat-free multipurpose compost. Alternatively, if you are growing blue hydrangeas and want to keep their colour vibrant, use an ericaceous compost, such as this John Innes ericaceous compost from Amazon.

However, "even the best multi-purpose composts only have enough nutrients for four–six weeks of growth, and once this is exhausted, plants will need supplementary feeding, either with a liquid or by top-dressing with controlled-release fertiliser," says John. Feed with a liquid from early summer until the end of flowering or top-dress in early summer.

"Loam-based composts hold on to moisture better than peat-based ones," continues John. "But, all potted plants need watering regularly, unless it rains a lot every day, 
as their roots are constrained and their compost is covered by foliage."

How do you repot a hydrangea?

To keep them healthy, hydrangeas will need repotting when they outgrow their pot. This tends to be every one or two years.

To do so, carefully remove yours from its existing container in autumn, once it has finished flowering. Choose a new garden planter that is around an inch or so wider in diameter than the old container, ensuring it has drainage holes, and plant it at the same depth as previously.

Do you need to prune a potted hydrangea?

Pruning hydrangeas is important to keep them flowering well. This is the case wherever they are planted – pots included.

It's generally best to approach this garden job in spring. The correct method varies according to which species of hydrangea you have.

"For the popular mopheads and lacecaps, the flowering shoots grow from wood produced during the previous season, and it is important that this is not removed," says John Negus. "In mid-spring remove the dead flower heads, cutting back to the nearest pair of large, healthy buds."

What are the best types of hydrangea to grow in pots?

Whether you're looking to add potted hydrangeas to a cottage garden patio or want to introduce more blooms to a front garden, there are many compact varieties that are suited to growing in containers.

The RHS recommends Hydrangea macrophylla 'Red Hot Violet' – which has bold deep-pink blooms – and 'Altona' (available from Crocus). Hydrangea macrophylla 'Fireworks', meanwhile, is a pretty lacecap variety with white, star-shaped florets, that also does well in pots.

Hydrangea paniculata 'Little Lime' (available from Dobies) is another lovely choice when growing hydrangeas in pots. It's a smaller version of the popular 'Limelight' that's perfect for small gardens.

Can you plant a potted hydrangea out into a border?

It's simple to plant your hydrangea into a flower bed or border if you decide to switch up the display.

Plant it somewhere where the soil is rich, fertile, free-draining, and easy to work, says John. "If possible, choose a lightly shaded spot where the soil stays moist in summer. Ideally, before planting, work in moisture-retentive well-rotted garden compost or old, crumbly manure.

"After tapping the root ball from its pot, tease out matted and encircling roots and set the plant in a hole three times the width of the root ball."

Water copiously after planting and for several weeks thereafter to help the plant re-establish well. Then, monthly, from mid-spring to early autumn, sprinkle the root area with fish, blood and bone meal (such as this Vitax Blood, Fish & Bone organic fertiliser from Amazon) and gently work it into the soil. Water it in if the ground is dry.

Should you protect potted hydrangeas in winter?

In winter, keep your potted hydrangeas in a sheltered part of the garden and drape them with fleece if sub-zero temperatures are forecast, advises John Negus. Remove fleece when the temperature rises. It is also a good idea to leave the old flower heads on over winter to protect the buds underneath.

"In mid-spring, move them away from the shelter and into the wider garden," he continues. When the soil temperature begins to rise, feed them with a balanced fertiliser.

Growing hydrangeas in pots is a brilliant way to introduce more flowers to your garden, especially as they will provide a long period of blooms from summer through to autumn. They don't require masses of attention, either, so are a good option if you're a fan of low-maintenance gardens.

Just remember to keep an eye on your potted hydrangeas and ensure they are well-watered, especially in their first year and during hot weather, to ensure the soil doesn't dry out too quickly.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Abbie and Matthew Newton knew they needed more space in their home, but after finding out the cost of an extension, decided to get creative with an unexpected solution: converting an old shipping container into a garden office.

With a fascination for tiny homes and previous experience renovating a van into a camper, they knew that “smaller spaces could still pack a punch” and had a vision to transform the container with a rustic countryside twist, styled with a Mediterranean outdoor feel.

Since the couple both work in the creative industries, it was essential for the container to become a multifunctional and imaginative space. It is now home to Abbie’s photography studio, Matthew’s DJ decks, as well as their shared computer setup.

When it came to deciding whether to go ahead with the idea for their unusual garden office, natural lighting was a “make or break” factor, which is why they placed it exactly where the sun hits, which Abbie says is “glorious when the sunset floods in.”

The conversion journey

Juggling work, parenting, as well as a nasty spell of bad weather, the conversion took around a year to complete, and the couple are now adding the finishing touches, including finding suitable wall storage to maximise the space.

Since the unit falls within the permitted development size and height rules, and isn't being used as a separate living space, the couple didn't need to obtain planning permission, which was another win.

When the shipping container arrived, the first steps were to insulate and board it up – which they hired a professional to do – and then add electricity. Luckily, their friend was able to help them out, kindly offering them a mates' rate.

“The container fitted in perfectly with the garden and we painted it black to match our neighbours' black barn behind it. It feels like it’s blended in with the surrounding farm buildings and countryside so well," Abbie says.

Since the original doors were "extremely heavy" to open, the couple decided to swap them out for stylish black French doors, which they bought from Leader Online, having previously used the company for their home's internal doors. This also helped the space feel "less like a container and more like a room".

Creating the interior space

Having converted a small space previously, the couple knew how important it would be to get the layout and storage right. They have kitted the container out with a large desk with plenty of drawers, as well as boxes for Abbie’s photography props. There is even a secret storage space hidden behind a curtain at the back.

When it came to designing the interior, the walls and ceilings needed to be a neutral shade to function as Abbie's photography studio backdrop. With that in mind, they opted for Little Greene's 'Slaked Lime Mid', a creamy white, and 'Olive Colour', a darker shade that "emulates the colour of nature that surrounds our countryside property".

This creative space features a built-in storage idea for Matthew's DJ decks and vinyl records, inspired by old-school speakeasy bars and the English countryside, which the couple agree is their favourite part about the whole project.

"My husband sketched out the unit, focusing the storage on the size of a vinyl record, and making sure his DJ decks were flush with the top. He then used moisture-resistant 18mm MDF to build it, and sunk the decks into the top. He covered it with foam and a lovely thick tapestry fabric," Abbie explains.

"He then planed oak to make the slats, which he varnished and attached to the front of the unit to create depth and dimension. We painted it in 'Olive Colour' by Little Greene."

“It’s a beautiful place to work and is great for photography if I ever want to play with natural light,” she says. “Plus, the double patio doors let us take in the countryside views that made us buy this property.”

“The best thing about a renovation journey is being able to put your own stamp on all parts of your home and garden. Using a container as a starting point has allowed us to do that while being cheaper than buying a large garden office or going ahead with a loft conversion or extension," Abbie concludes.

For more ideas and inspiration, browse through these beautiful budget garden ideas or these house extension alternatives.

What may seem like a minor issue – leaving bins out on the pavement for too long – can quickly escalate into formal disputes between neighbours.

With new Simpler Recycling reforms being rolled out across the UK, bin rules are coming into sharper focus for homeowners.

Homeowners are now being warned that, in some cases, it may even lead to council enforcement action or civil legal claims.

What the issue is with leaving bins out for too long

According to legal expert Natalie Peacock, disputes often begin with simple habits around wheelie bins being left out after collection days or blocking shared pathways.

She explained that many residents may not realise they are causing a problem: “Neighbours may work irregular hours or simply be unaware that they are breaching any rules.”

While it may seem minor, repeated issues can create friction between neighbours and lead to formal complaints.

What are the bin rules?

There is no single 'bin law', but several legal frameworks can apply to homeowners:

• Environmental Protection Act 1990: This can apply if waste causes a material disturbance, such as attracting vermin or creating health hazards.
• Highways Act 1980: This can be relevant if bins are left on pavements and obstruct public access.
• Council waste collection rules: These set out when bins can be placed out and when they must be returned.

Repeated failure to follow these rules may trigger warnings or enforcement action, such as notices, from local authorities.

However, your rules could vary wildly depending on your local authority. For instance, some councils, such as Bury Council, say: “You should put your bins out by 7am and return your bins to your property as soon as possible after being emptied.”

Others, like Derby City Council, give much different timescales as they say: “Take your bin back in by 12 noon the day after collection.”

Oxford City Council say: “Remove empty bins from the pavement as soon as possible after collection. Put bins out by 6am on collection day but no sooner than 6pm the night before.”

A DEFRA spokesperson said there are no hard-and-fast national rules on how long bins can be left out either, with arrangements left to local councils to decide what is considered a “reasonable amount of time”.

When it can become a civil case

In more serious or ongoing cases, neighbours may be able to bring a civil claim in nuisance – a legal term used when someone’s actions unreasonably interfere with another person’s use or enjoyment of their property.

Natalie Peacock warned that escalation is possible if problems are not resolved: “If the issue persists and the bins obstruct access or attract vermin, neighbours may have grounds to bring a civil claim for nuisance.”

These claims usually arise where the problem is repeated over time and has a lasting impact on how someone can reasonably use their home or surroundings, such as when bins obstruct pavements and create difficulties for pedestrians, including those with visual impairments or mobility issues.

Homeowners advised to handle disputes informally

Peacock says the first step should always be communication between neighbours before escalation.

Natalie Peacock said: “In most cases, a polite and informal approach is often effective.”

Court cases can cause significant legal fees, and Peacock added that many disputes can be resolved quickly once people are made aware that there is a problem.

While leaving bins out may feel like a small issue, repeated behaviour can lead to council warnings, neighbour disputes, and in more serious cases, civil legal action.

The simplest solution is early communication, before the problem escalates into a formal complaint or more severe punishments.

Find out how to grow hydrangeas, and these Insta-friendly delights will charm you with a long-lasting display in your garden design.

These beautiful blooms come in every hue imaginable, ranging from bubblegum pink and zingy lime to softer shades of delicate blush pink and milky white. Then, in autumn, the papery leaves fade into soft vintage tones tinged with bronze and gold.

From where to plant them to the best fertiliser, here's everything you need to know about growing and caring for hydrangeas.

How do I grow hydrangeas?

If you're looking to grow hydrangeas in your garden, follow these top tips recommended by Nigel Lawton, Plant Buyer at Dobies Garden Centres.

• The best time to plant hydrangeas in your garden landscaping is during spring or autumn when the soil is warm and moist. Although summer planting is possible, it requires more frequent watering to prevent them drying out.
• Keeping the soil consistently damp is especially important during the first growing season while the plant establishes itself.
• Applying an annual mulch of compost, leaf mould or well-rotted manure in spring helps retain moisture and provides nutrients to support healthy growth.

How do I care for hydrangeas?

While hydrangeas are pretty robust and self-supporting, there are some things to keep in mind when it comes to caring for them, according to Chris Wood, Head Florist at Waitrose Gardens:

• Water them regularly: Hydrangeas are "notoriously thirsty", so ensure you're watering plants at least three to four times per week in sunny weather and do so from the base, rather than sprinkling it on the leaves. Keep an eye on the moisture levels to ensure the plant doesn't dry out.
• Light: "Hydrangeas prefer partial shade rather than direct sunlight. They tend to thrive in a location that is not too sunny or shaded, so definitely avoid a south-facing position in the garden."
• Soil: Ensure the soil is rich, moist and free-draining.
• Fertiliser: "Apply a balanced slow-release fertiliser in early spring, but avoid a high nitrogen-based fertiliser which would encourage leaf growth rather than blooms. It's best to use one which includes added magnesium and iron, which helps promote strong plant growth and a vibrant flower colour."
• Mulching: To reduce moisture loss, apply organic matter on a regular basis – especially in hot weather.
• Soil preparation: "Cultivars with blue flowers will remain blue when they are grown in more acidic soil ( PH 4.5-5). To enhance red and pink colours, apply dressing containing ground limestone or chalk during winter. White and green hydrangea will remain white and green regardless of the soil PH."