There are certain, arguably less glamorous, aspects of home design that tend to get rushed, or not given the concentration they require. Yet, failing to give them the attention they really need can cause all kinds of headaches later down the line.

One of these is electrical sockets – not just in terms of their look, but also when it comes to how many you need, and where they should be placed to optimise the experience of living in your home.

While totting up how many sockets you need might not be as exciting as creating a new kitchen mood board, it must be done – luckily our guide is here to help simplify things.

How do you decide on the right number of sockets for each room?

It can be difficult to know exactly how many sockets are required in each room of your house and people often wonder if there is a minimum, or whether you can have too many.

According to Martin Garbutt, head of technical governance at Ding, it really comes down to good planning. "The ideal number of plug sockets depends on the size of the room and how you use it. As our homes become more reliant on technology, it's worth planning for the appliances and devices you'll use every day, rather than just meeting your immediate needs."

Ricki Wake, owner of Wake Electrical, agrees that when deciding on the number of electrical sockets for a space you need to look at the way you'll use the room now, as well as how your needs might change in the future, particularly if you are designing a lifetime home.

"When I’m designing an installation, I look at the layout of the room, its function and where the furniture will go. Where will the bedside tables go? Is there a desk for working from home? Will there be a TV in the room? It’s far more cost-effective to install a few extra sockets during a build or renovation rather than relying on extension leads or costly remodels later down the line," he says. "My advice is to think about how you will use the space over the next several years. Most homeowners tell me they wish they’d added more sockets, not fewer."

Obviously different rooms of the house have different requirements – for example, a tech-heavy space such as a media room will need more sockets than a children's bedroom. With this in mind, it can be useful to look at the main rooms individually, taking into consideration the appliances you plan on having in each space and how you want to use it.

Always add extra in kitchens

As one of the busiest rooms in any house, it isn't just the range of electrical appliances that needs to be taken into account when it comes to designing a kitchen. Rather than specifying an exact amount of sockets for this room, the experts advise planning this around both the kitchen appliances you want, and the activities you expect to take place here. Many people use this as somewhere to work from home, for the children to do their homework and, lets not forget, as somewhere to charge up phones and other devices.

"The kitchen is usually the most power-hungry room in the house," picks up Martin Garbutt. "This is why it's is normally fed on a separate circuit to the rest of the property, due to the additional load that can be drawn when multiple appliances are in operation."

"Plenty of sockets should be added above kitchen worktops and extra sockets anywhere people are likely to charge their phones or other devices," adds Ricki Wake.

Think about placement in living rooms

Living room design can be a tricky thing to get right – this is a space that often needs to meet multiple requirements, acting as somewhere to relax, entertain and often bring together different generations all at once. What all this means is that it is also usually home to a range of electrical appliances and various plug-in light sources, but also has be capable of providing somewhere for other electrical devices from time to time, such as chargers, games consoles and so on.

"Living rooms often contain multiple electrical devices, so 8 - 10 plug sockets is a good benchmark," advises Martin Garbutt. "Around the TV area, having four sockets (or two double sockets) provides enough connections for a television, games console, broadband router and sound system.

“Additional sockets near sofas and armchairs also make it easier to charge devices or power floor lamps, without relying on extension leads," adds Martin."

Don't under-estimate in bedrooms

Bedrooms often get overlooked when it comes to the provision of electrical sockets but this really is a space that you don't want extension leads trailing all over the place, ruining what should be a relaxing ambience.

"In most cases, I’d recommend your bedroom design should account for a double socket either side of the bed, and then one or two more sockets in other locations," says Ricki Wake.

Martin Garbutt suggests including a little more than this though. "Six to eight plug sockets is generally sufficient for most bedrooms. A double socket on each side of the bed is ideal for bedside lamps and phone chargers, while additional sockets near a dressing table can accommodate hair styling appliances, such as straighteners and hairdryers."

Plan for the future in home offices

You home office design needs to take into account the kind of work that will be undertaken there – if you work from home on a daily basis, your needs are going to be very different from someone who is creating a space simply to carry out some admin from time-to-time.

"A home office will typically need between six and eight sockets," says Martin Garbutt. "A desktop computer, monitor, printer and desk lamp can quickly use four outlets, so it's worth allowing extra capacity for chargers or future equipment, rather than relying on extension leads."

As a general rule, this is the space to incorporate more sockets that you actually think you'll need – it is far easier to incorporate them from the outset than it is to add them later down the line.

Where is the best position for electrical sockets?

Almost as important as the number of electrical sockets you install within a room is their positioning. The key to getting this spot on is to have a really clear idea of how you plan on using each space.

"When planning socket locations, think about where you'll naturally use electrical devices," picks up Martin Garbutt. "Corners are useful for lamps, fans and seasonal decorations, while sockets should also be positioned close to desks, seating areas and entertainment units or media walls. It's equally important to avoid placing sockets too close to doorways, where trailing cables could become a trip hazard."

Remember, it isn't just walls that can take electrical sockets – in some cases, it can make sense to fit them within worktops, the kitchen island and even in the floor.

How do you choose the right types of socket for each room?

The two most common types of electrical socket are double or single, but these days there are all kinds of other options available too.

Perhaps the most notable are smart sockets that connect to your WiFi and can be controlled via an app on your smart device, much like smart plugs. These are particularly handy for hard-to-reach areas of the house, such as behind heavy furniture – plus they let you check whether you have left any appliances on, even when you are out.

Another type of socket that really does come in handy these days is the USB socket which, as the name suggests, features outlets for plugging in USB devices such as smartphones and tablets – perfect for home offices and teen bedrooms.

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What happens if you need to add sockets at a later date?

Unless you are self building or building an extension, the chances are that you'll need to retrofit some electrical sockets.

Ricki Wake explains what's involved with this job. "Retrofitting can be fairly straightforward, although it does depend on the construction of the house and where the new sockets are located. Stud walls with plasterboard are generally easier to access and less time-consuming than solid/brick or block walls.

"We can often keep disruption to a minimum, but some chasing and making good may be needed," continues Ricki. "I would ask the electrician if they are happy to make good; we do this as standard, and it is really appreciated.

"As a rough guide, adding a standard white plastic socket would usually be around £100–£200 per point, depending on access and how much making good is required," adds Ricki.

And, finally, if you were worried that adding sockets might mean your existing circuits will need upgrading, Ricki has some good news. "The additional load from a few extra sockets generally isn’t an issue, as long as the existing circuits have been designed appropriately. We would check this by testing the circuit before the works commence and advise accordingly."

FAQs

Do you need building regulations for more electrical sockets?

As with so many home alterations and upgrades, the building regulations need to be observed when adding new electrical sockets.

"Electricians in the UK must comply with the BS 7671 (the IET & BSI Wiring Regulations), although there is no set number of sockets based on room size," explains Ricki Wake. "For new-build homes, Approved Document M guidance states sockets must be installed with their centre between 450mm and 1200mm above finished floor level."

"Where sockets are installed above kitchen worktops, they should typically be positioned around 150mm above the surface to help protect them from damage and splashes," adds Martin Garbutt.

Finally, if you are having additional sockets added to a circuit, it is a good idea to ask your electrician to issue you with a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate.

How can you disguise electrical sockets?

If you are stuck with electrical sockets that are doing little for your house design ideas, there are several steps you can take to hide them.

One way is to paint them to match your wall colour. Alternatively, locating them behind furniture or easy-to-move accessories works well.

If you are happy to spend a little money, though, there are now plenty of attractive socket options out there, from slim-profiled designs in a range of brushed metallic finishes, to those that can be colour matched to your walls.

Don't forget to think about the quantity and positioning of electrical sockets in circulation spaces too – your hallway design and landing will definitely benefit. Given the central positions these areas often occupy in a house, they are the perfect place for plugging in appliances such as vacuums, as well as plug-in hallway lighting to brighten dark corners.

Certain spaces within a home are harder to work with than others. That might be down to size restrictions, awkward angles or, as is often the case, their orientation.

Whether you are renovating a house or building an extension, when it comes to designing rooms that face north, the approach you take needs to be really carefully considered if you want to ensure they don't feel gloomy and cold.

That said, there are also some advantages to north-facing rooms, so it is important to maximise these while navigating their downsides – here, designers explain exactly how to do this.

Embrace the benefits of north-facing rooms

While north-facing rooms might not enjoy all-day sun like their south-facing counterparts, there is still a lot to love about them, as Rhys Owen, founder and director at Pensaer, points out. "North-facing spaces are often treated as a problem to solve, but they have real advantages. Artists have valued north light for centuries because it is soft, gentle and consistent throughout the day."

Another huge advantage of north-facing extensions and rooms, particularly in the face of all these hot, sunny summers we are currently enjoying, is that preventing overheating is also less of an issue.

Rhys Owen explains that this provides the opportunity for using glazing more freely than in spaces that enjoy more direct sunlight. "We can often introduce more glazing without the risk of glare and overheating. Ultimately, I would embrace north light rather than fight it. A room can be softly lit without ever feeling gloomy."

Light from above is your secret weapon

The whole process of choosing windows can be complicated enough, but in the case of spaces where a lack of natural light is going to be an issue, even more consideration needs to be given. It isn't just about the quantity of light you are getting either – it needs to have the right qualities too.

"Rooflights can bring daylight deeper into the plan, particularly to the middle rooms that might otherwise become darker once a house is extended," says Rhys Owen. "At our Holmewood Gardens project (shown below), we introduced timber fins beneath rooflights to soften the daylight, add warmth and maintain privacy within an urban setting."

Zaeem Chaudhary, Chartered Architectural Technologist and director at AC Design Solution, agrees that roof glazing is hugely helpful in these instances. "For north-facing extensions, rooflights or glazed roof sections are often more effective than relying only on rear doors. With extensions, positioning them near the connection with the existing house helps bring light into the deepest part of the room. North-facing rooms often feel dark because daylight is not being carried far enough into the plan."

Maximum glazing is not always best

While we're on the topic of glazing, it might be easy to assume that taking a more-is-more approach would be the way forward when it comes to brightening up a north-facing space – not so, according to the experts.

Rhys Owen explains that the best approach is actually a multifaceted one. "If a client wants a bright, airy extension in a north-facing property, we would suggest a combination of top light, larger windows and glazed doors, as well as lighter or more reflective materials.

"That does not necessarily mean creating one enormous wall of glass, which can feel sterile and rather inhuman," adds Rhys. "Instead, framing views and breaking glazing into smaller elements often gives a room more warmth and character."

Room layouts matter more than you might think

Alongside natural light levels, you need to think about creating a space that makes the most of the light you are bringing in – one way to do this is through the room's layout. The key thing is to ensure that no natural light is being blocked.

Obviously what you intend on using the new space for will play a big part in its layout too. If you are building a north-facing kitchen extension, Zaeem Chaudhary has some advice. "The layout should keep tall kitchen units, utility rooms and storage away from key daylight paths."

In addition to keeping light pathways free, think about how the room's layout will work best with the way in which light is entering your space.

"I have a north-facing dining space at home and love working there: the light is calm, there is no glare and I get very little reflection on my screen," reveals Rhys Owen. "Dining or working areas can sit closer to the windows, while sofas and television spaces often work perfectly well further back."

Your lighting scheme will have a huge impact

It isn't just natural light that needs to be considered when creating a north-facing room that you enjoy spending time in – designing a lighting scheme that does it justice is hugely important too.

Again, a considered approach is the best one – you don't just want to fit as many lights as possible and end up with a horribly bright finish, as interior designer Melissa Denham, interior design expert at Hammonds, explains. "When you’re lacking natural light in a north-facing room, it may seem logical to add as much artificial light as possible, however it’s important to choose the right type of lighting.

"LED spotlights in the ceiling can add instant light to a darker space and should be used with a dimmer to help control the light levels from day to night," continues Melissa. "If your room has a low ceiling, stay away from pendant lights as they can visually bring the ceiling down and make the space feel cramped. Having one light in the centre creates a single pool of light, which is ineffective for lighting a whole space.

"Try spotlights that are scattered across your ceiling, specifically in the corners, instead," suggests Melissa. "By lighting the corners of your room, you will spread the focus and make it appear bigger."

It's the view of Debbie Clifford, interior designer at Lawrence Walsh, that a layered approach is always going to be best in this kind of room, using a range of sources chosen with its individual requirements in mind. "Wall lights, table lamps, floor lamps and uplighters can all be used to create focal points and to lighten gloomy corners."

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A warm colour scheme is key to a cosy finish

Getting the colour of the main backdrops of your space spot on is an easy, yet massively effective way to ensure you are maximising light and achieving the feel you're aiming for.

A mistake I know I have made in my dining room design (which really misses out on natural light thanks to being in the centre of the house), is to paint it bright white, something all the designers I spoke to advised against.

"Warm off-whites, pale timber and lightly reflective finishes usually work better than brilliant white, which can appear grey in cooler northern light" explains Zaeem Chaudhary.

Debbie Clifford agrees that cool shades are best avoided in north-facing rooms. "It is best to avoid pure white and grey as they can look clinical. The best colours are warm-toned – think undertones of yellow, brown and pink to give warmth to a room and counteract the cool bluish natural light these rooms receive. Deep colours with a lot of pigment can also be used to create a cocooning effect."

FAQs

What is the best use of a north-facing room?

There are actually lots of instances where north-facing rooms can be the ideal location for certain types of spaces – namely those that will benefit from low glare, such as home offices or media rooms. With a lack of natural sunlight streaming through, you won't have to constantly be pulling down blinds or readjusting screens throughout the day.

"A north-facing room is ideal for a library, or to hang valuable artwork in too because there will be less exposure to sunlight," points out Debbie Clifford.

Rooms designed for cosying up in or that are rarely used during the day – such as snugs, nurseries or even master bedrooms – are also ideal for locating in north-facing extensions.

Many side return extensions can also suffer from a lack of natural light without the right design expertise, so be sure to talk through all the options with your chosen designer before getting started.

And, if you're looking for ways to bring more light into your north-facing room from sunnier spots within your home, take a look at these internal window ideas too.

Why is it that the spots that most need lighting are never near a plug? I mean the dark corner by the shed, or the unlit gap down the side of the house where anyone could slip past unseen. Neither comes with a handy socket, and running armoured cable across the garden isn't top of most people's DIY list.

That's what made the Reolink Solar Floodlight Cam worth a proper look. It promises full floodlight-level security powered entirely by sun and battery, requiring no cable and no electrician. The Homebuilding team has tested a fair few of the best home security systems, and power has always been a limiting factor in where a camera or light can go. So I wanted to know whether solar could actually close that gap.

With a 1,000-lumen adjustable floodlight, 2K video and AI detection built in, this camera had a lot to prove. Here's how it got on around my own home.

Specifications

The Reolink Solar Floodlight Cam packs a fair bit into a modestly-sized unit, including 1,000-lumen adjustable floodlights, 2K video, two-way audio and a 110dB siren. Here's a breakdown of the spec:

First impressions of the Reolink Solar Floodlight Cam

Off the bat, it's a stylish piece of kit and there aren't too many pieces to put together before you can start recording. There's a nice weight to the unit that hints at the quality, and the look isn't dissimilar to a drone camera, thanks to its wing-like floodlights, which pivot nicely.

It arrived neatly and securely packaged, complete with an instruction manual and everything you need to set it up: a wall mount and pivoting bracket, a plastic spanner for tightening it all into place, a screw pack and wall plugs for fixing to brick or render. There's also a quick start guide and a set of "Protected by Reolink" window stickers in five languages.

It's worth noting that footage is stored locally on a microSD card rather than the cloud, which means no mandatory subscription, but there's a catch: the camera doesn't come with a card included, and Reolink's own start from £34.99. Without one fitted, the camera still works as a live monitoring tool, you'll get real-time notifications, live view and can trigger the floodlight or siren, but nothing gets recorded, so there's no footage to look back on afterwards. If you don't already have a card lying around, it's an extra cost worth factoring in from the outset.

Setting up the Reolink Solar Floodlight Cam

1. Charge the camera and scan the QR code

To get started, I needed to charge the camera for around 15 minutes before it beeped to let me know that it was ready for set up. Next, I scanned the QR code in the manual, which took me straight to download the Reolink app on my phone. Setup was really intuitive from there, as the app walked me through connecting to my home Wi-Fi and pairing the camera in a few taps. At this stage you can give the camera a custom name (such as 'side door' or 'garage' for example) and also choose a login password.

2. Get familiar with the app

Once the camera's paired, the Reolink app is where all the day-to-day control lives. From there you can adjust the floodlights, check notifications and view playback, whether you're on the same Wi-Fi network or out and about.

It isn't the most intuitive app, there's a lot to take in when you first open it, with settings for AI detection, lighting, storage, notifications and more all competing for attention. I left the AI lighting response on its default setting rather than customising it per detection type, and it worked perfectly well without any adjusting, but if you do want to dig in, the option's there to configure a different floodlight response depending on whether it's a person, vehicle or animal that's triggered it.

You can also adjust colour temperature and brightness from the app, choose between local storage on a microSD card or Reolink's cloud service (which is a paid for subscription), and link the camera to Amazon Alexa or Google Assistant if you use either.

3. Mount the camera

Next, I chose the best spot for my new security camera and floodlight. Since the camera runs on solar, I needed somewhere that gets plenty of light, but not too much direct sun, and somewhere that isn't overly exposed to the weather, even though the unit itself is water resistant. I opted for my shed, which gives coverage over a sheltered part of the house and the wheelie bin store, perfect for covering all bases, and for finally getting some light on recycling day (because let's be honest, we always remember the bins need doing right as it gets dark).

Mounting the camera to the shed was refreshingly easy. You just drill the mount into the wall, pop the camera onto it, and you're good to go.

Using the Reolink Solar Floodlight Cam

Day and night footage quality

Daytime footage is sharp and does the 2K resolution justice, holding up well even towards the edges of that wide 150° view. After dark is where the compromises start to show. The camera leans on the floodlight rather than infrared alone to produce colour footage at night, which works well enough at close range, but whites blow out quickly once the light kicks in, and faces looking directly into the lens lose a lot of detail as a result.

It's also better suited to close-up coverage than anything at the far end of a large garden, a side effect of that wide-angle lens. That said, for the price, I was still really impressed by the overall quality of the recorded footage, this isn't a camera that feels like it's cutting corners.

Solar and battery performance

Reolink says the battery can run for up to three months unaided, and the 3W solar panel needs as little as an hour of sunlight a day to keep it topped up (it'll even trickle-charge on a grey British day). In the time I've had it mounted, the battery level hasn't dropped in any meaningful way.

The one caveat is that the solar panel is fixed directly to the top of the unit rather than sold separately, which makes the whole thing feel a little bulkier and less discreet than I expected. It also means you can't angle the panel independently of the camera if your ideal spot for coverage isn't a sunny spot on the wall.

Alerts and notifications

The AI detection is smart enough to tell a person, vehicle and animal apart, which matters more than you'd think when you've got a cat and your neighbour has two. Motion alerts landed on my phone as handy push notifications, though it's worth knowing the first 25 are free before Reolink starts asking you to pay for more, worth bearing in mind if you're somewhere with a lot of passing foot traffic.

Beyond alerts, there's real deterrence built in too. If someone does linger too long, the 110dB siren is loud enough to make you jump from the other end of the garden, let alone an intruder standing right next to it. Two-way audio also means you can speak through the camera directly if you'd rather warn someone off yourself. Both features worked well in testing, and I'd be confident in their ability to see off anyone caught sneaking around the outside of the house.

The floodlights

The floodlight's colour temperature adjustment turns out to be one of the camera's best features, letting you dial the light anywhere from 3000K (soft, warm) to 6000K (cold, daylight-bright) depending on how subtle or full-beam you want the coverage to feel.

I settled on something in the middle, as it was bright enough to be useful without lighting up the whole space every time next door's cat wandered past. You can also link colour temperature to what's actually triggering it, so a person – or aforementioned cats – get a different response to a passing car, which is a nice touch if you want the light to feel proportionate rather than blasting on for everything.

It's worth noting that if you want floodlights on continuously, or something more powerful, this isn't the camera for that, you'd want something you can hardwire instead.

Storing footage

As I mentioned earlier in this review, without a microSD card fitted, you'll still get everything except a recorded history. Live view, real-time alerts, and manual control of the floodlight and siren all work regardless, but what you're paying that extra £30+ for is the ability to actually look back on what happened, which for most people considering this as a proper security camera rather than a smart floodlight, is the whole point.

It's worth noting, therefore, that the camera is actually about 30% more expensive than the initial price, once you factor this in – still not a lot but still a factor to consider.

It's also worth knowing the card lives inside the camera itself, so if the unit is stolen, your footage goes with it, unless you're on Reolink's cloud storage or running it through the Reolink Home Hub instead. And since live view and remote playback both depend on your home Wi-Fi, a slow connection will make the camera feel sluggish too, no fault of the hardware itself.

Is the Reolink Solar Floodlight Cam worth it?

Do I think this camera is worth investing in? For the price, yes. It's low effort to set up, genuinely wireless, and offers a lot of camera and floodlight for very little outlay. The colour temperature control and wide coverage are real strengths, and being subscription-free if you want it to be is a proper point in its favour.

It isn't without its trade-offs. You'll want to budget for a microSD card or a subscription for cloud storage, and night-time detail isn't its strongest point. But as a wireless, low-maintenance way to light and watch the edges of a property, it does exactly what it promises.

Before setting up your own, it's worth reading up on where to place a security camera to get the most out of it, especially with a solar-powered model, where positioning affects both charging and coverage.

By the time August rolls around, my home is crying out for an autumn reset. Whether it's unwanted holiday souvenirs shoved in a drawer, or crispy plants that didn't survive the heat, a huge de-clutter is in order to get me set for the next season.

You might think of spring as the best time to get your ducks in a row, but I think the end of summer is just as important. With the excitement of summer plans front of mind, chores and cleaning are often left as an afterthought. But, as August progresses and thoughts start to slowly return to the months ahead, it's the perfect time to get things sorted before spending more time indoors.

If like me, you're keen to get your home in tip-top shape sooner rather than later, these are the five things you should prioritise decluttering, according to professional organisers.

1. Holiday souvenirs

Souvenirs can be a wonderful way to reminisce on summer adventures abroad, but if your drawers and cupboards are becoming clogged up with unwanted magnets, bottle openers and home decor that looked good on holiday – but doesn't quite fit in with your living room ideas now you're back at home – it might be time to have a rethink.

“If you’ve brought any gifts back for family or friends, make sure these get to the recipients as soon as possible to avoid cluttering up your own drawers and storage space," says Melissa Denham, interior design expert at Hammonds Furniture.

“With souvenirs for your own home, ask yourself ‘does this fit into my living space?’ or ‘does this remind me of my time on holiday?' If the answer to both is no, it’s most likely just clutter," she advises.

Top tip: If you hate the idea of your trinkets ending up in landfill, try repurposing them into something new – a postcard could become a bookmark, or a tea towel could be displayed in a frame and become artwork.

2. Clean out your wardrobe

With the change in weather imminent, it's often time to switch out summer for winter clothes – particularly if you only have a small bedroom with limited storage. Not only will this prevent your wardrobe ideas from becoming crammed with items you won’t be using, but it’s also a good opportunity to see what you already own – potentially helping you buy less in autumn.

"Start by completely clearing your wardrobe or drawer space. Use a duster to get rid of any lingering debris that inevitably will have collected since your last clean. After that, wipe both the interior and exterior of your wardrobe with a damp cloth and anti-bacterial spray to ensure its completely fresh in preparation for your autumnal attire," says Melissa Denham.

"Once all your clothing is out of your wardrobe, look through your items and decide if it’s time to say goodbye to that pair of jeans you haven’t worn in years. Stick to the rule: if you haven’t worn it in a year, donate or sell it; if you want to wear it but it’s broken, fix it; and if you wear it every year without fail, keep it!"

Shop these wardrobe decluttering essentials

3. Sort your garden furniture, toys and equipment while you can

Before you put your garden to bed this autumn, you'll want to check whether your outdoor toys, picnic equipment, camping gear and furniture are in good condition, recommends Kelly Moore, founder of Cleaning with Meaning.

“Clean and store anything you’ll use again, and donate good-quality items you don’t need anymore,” she adds.

Take a look at what garden storage you have and assess if you need to buy more. Or, perhaps your shed storage isn't up to scratch and is need of an upgrade. While the weather is still warm, it's the perfect time to upgrade what you have before the cold and damp return, and potentially damage your garden furniture.

If you’re not sure what to do with broken furniture, you could also try fixing it, upcycling it into something new, or recycling parts of it. Make sure you understand the rules for disposing of garden waste though before you pop it in your closest wheelie bin.

4. Free up bathroom storage by checking expiry dates

If your bathroom storage is feeling more cluttered than normal, the chances are, like most of us, you've stocked up on suncream and holiday-specific items over the years but never actually used them all up.

And, while it's easy to fall into the habit of buying new products every time summer comes around, throwing out old items isn't just about regaining space. Did you know that most toiletries need to be used within six to 24 months after they’re first opened? This is particularly important to follow when it comes to products such as sun protection and insect repellent. All products will have a little open jar icon on the back with a number in the middle – this number tells you how many months they can be used for after opening.

"Recycle packaging where possible and dispose of expired or unsuitable products responsibly, according to local guidance," says Kelly Moore. "Check around when you do, because some shops have recycling programmes for beauty products," she adds.

5. Refresh your kitchen cupboards

Whether it's leftover barbecue sauce or iced tea syrups you're never going to use come autumn, now is the best time to use them all up, says Kelly Moore.

While you're organising your kitchen pantry and fridge, take the opportunity to give the surfaces a wipe down and donate anything unopened and sealed to your local food bank.

"Once you've decluttered, give shelves, cupboards and storage areas a thorough clean using refillable or plant-based products. It leaves your home fresh for the new season while reducing unnecessary plastic waste," she says.

By following these five decluttering tips, your home will be refreshed and organised when autumn officially arrives, and you’ll be ready to take on the next chapter of the year.

For more expert tips, read things people with an organised porch always have to make sure you can get in from the cold quickly and efficiently once winter comes. And, if this advice has inspired you to do more, find out how the 80/20 decluttering rule helped me streamline my home.

Pattern drenching is the perfect aesthetic for maximalists or anyone who's fallen in love with a particular wallpaper and can't get enough of it on just one wall.

This daring trend – which involves using one pattern throughout a space (similarly to colour drenching) – isn't particularly new, but it's still a popular choice in many homes and is a great way to add colour, personality, and a touch of fun to an interior scheme.

If you're keen to give pattern drenching a go in your home, there are a few common mistakes you'll need to know about first, which our team of interior designers explain below.

1. Half-committing

If you're feeling nervous at the idea of covering your entire room in one pattern, you might be tempted to dip your toe into the trend by using it here and there – but Samantha-Jane Agbontaen, Interior Designer & Founder of House Designer, says this won't look any good.

"The mistake I see most is half committing. One wall and a cushion isn't pattern drenching. It just looks like you ran out of wallpaper," she says,

If you're struggling with decision fatigue and can't make up your mind about whether pattern drenching is right for your home, start with a smaller space, such as a downstairs toilet or study.

2. Choosing the wrong pattern or colour

While a print might look lovely on a sample, it's a whole different ball game when you pattern drench a room in it, as the effect becomes amplified.

With this in mind, Mirela Bajic recommends "choosing a pattern that's two notches quieter than the one you first fall in love with" so the room doesn't become too overwhelming.

"People often blame the pattern when a drenched room feels chaotic, but it's usually the colour contrast that's the problem. Tonal patterns, where the colours sit close together, create a much calmer, cocooning effect than bold, high contrast prints," she adds.

Wallpaper picks we love

3. Not including a rest wall

As we previously mentioned, half-committing to pattern drenching isn't going to do your room any favours – but you still need some sort of restpite. Whether it's a plain headboard or simple curtains, Mirela suggests having a few features that balance the pattern out.

"When every surface competes for attention, a space can quickly feel overwhelming rather than considered," says Ryan Wenham, Chartered Architect at Larsen Architecture.

"The most successful interiors still have moments of calm. Layering texture, natural materials and a restrained palette creates depth without visual noise, allowing a room to feel timeless, elegant and genuinely comfortable to live in."

4. Overlooking awkward areas

In order for pattern drenching to work, you'll need to consider every aspect of your room – including those awkward nooks, such as alcoves, shelving and built-in storage, according to Melissa Denham, interior design expert at Hammonds Furniture.

"These spaces are the perfect opportunity to introduce patterns without overwhelming the room. Adding patterned wallpaper behind open shelving or within alcoves can help create depth and visual interest while tying the wide scheme together.”

5. Not having a clear palette

Before you whip out the wallpaper and mix as many patterns as you can get your hands on, it's worth having a clear palette in mind to ensure everything ties together.

While there are no rules against combining multiple prints, Melissa Denham recommends balancing small and large designs and using colours that complement each other for a curated feel.

“One of the biggest mistakes people make when pattern drenching is assuming it’s simply a case of layering as many prints as possible into a room. This trend is more than just throwing together random patterns," she explains.

By avoiding these common pattern drenching mistakes, you'll successfully add that wow factor to your home – for all the right reasons.

For more interior advice, read our guide to colour drenching mistakes or browse or learn how to wallpaper like a professional.

Trends have a habit of circling back, and mid-century design never really left long enough to need a proper comeback. It's been humming along in the background for decades, quietly influencing everything from Scandi minimalism to the warm, wood-heavy interiors filling Pinterest boards and interior design trends lists today.

You'd be forgiven for feeling a flicker of caution at that, as some eras really are better left in the past. Fill a room with replica chairs and a starburst clock, and you've built a film set, not a home. But there's a lot to love about mid-century design too. Get it right, and it's one of the most liveable, adaptable styles there is, as comfortable in a 1930s semi as it is in a purpose-built self build.

We spoke to interior designers and architects for their advice on bringing mid-century design into a home properly, inside and out, without it ever tipping into pastiche.

1. Embrace a mid-century colour palette

Mid-century homes were never afraid of colour, but they used it with a lot more restraint than we tend to remember. The trick to doing it well today is picking a handful of grounded, earthy tones and letting them anchor the room, rather than reaching for anything too saturated or synthetic.

"Mid-century is about storytelling, celebrating heritage while embracing modern living," explains Kate Palmer, creative director at The Painted Furniture Company. "It is a great style for creating a space that feels warm, relaxed and characterful. Colour plays a big role in shaping the look. Soft, earthy tones, like clay, olive, warm neutrals or chalky blues, can be used on cabinetry and larger pieces to set a calm, grounded backdrop."

As a rule, you should try to keep the bulk of the room in that neutral territory, then layer in colour with a little more confidence elsewhere. "You could do this by creating a feature wall, choosing a bright patterned rug, or even through something as subtle as choosing colourful light switches," says Ally Dowsing-Reynolds, co-founder of Dowsing & Reynolds.

But don't get too trigger happy when painting your walls. According to Joe Burton, interior expert at The Brick Tile Co it's a mistake to paint over original materials. "Wood panelling, stonework or an original brick wall should be left alone, as that authenticity is what gives a home its mid-century character."

Expert recommendation: Try grounding your space in a shade like Skimming Stone from Farrow & Ball or India Yellow if you want a proper mustard moment on a single wall.

2. Source iconic mid-century furniture designs

"For those looking to introduce mid-century character to their home, a focus on a few key elements is more effective than trying to recreate an entire period look," explains Joe Burton.

"Furniture with clean, simple lines and a clear purpose works best, and a few well-chosen mid-century pieces can completely change the feel of a room. A classic bent-ply lounge chair, a simple wooden sideboard and a large abstract rug, for example, can add warmth and character to even the most characterless new-build space."

This Esmeray Leather Chair from Furniturebox makes the same point in miniature, with its tapered dark wood legs, a simple frame and a single leather cushion. There's no ornament beyond the iconic shape itself. Likewise, the arc floor lamp adds a second iconic silhouette without crowding the corner – proof that two well-chosen pieces can carry a whole room.

"The great thing about mid-century design is that it doesn't require a complete overhaul," Joe adds. It can be introduced gradually, piece by piece, over the years.

Get the look

3. Bring the garden right up to the glass

There's a reason mid-century architects treated the garden as a fifth wall rather than something viewed from a distance. "The single feature I'd encourage people to embrace is the connection between indoors and outdoors," says Stuart Murray, Founder of Retrovintage.

"Mid-century homes were designed to make gardens feel like an extension of the living space, using large windows, wide patio doors and uninterrupted views wherever possible. Even if you don't have floor-to-ceiling architectural glazing, you can reinforce that connection by arranging furniture to face the garden and using natural materials to reflect the landscape outside."

For a house that's never had a defined style, this is also where the most meaningful structural change tends to happen, and it needn't mean a full glass extension.

"The easiest entry points structurally are replacing a rear wall with full-height glazing to open the plan to the garden, exposing or adding timber roof structure rather than boxing everything in plasterboard, and reworking window proportions, mid-century leans on horizontal bands and slim frames rather than tall traditional openings," says Zaeem Chaudhary, MCIAT, Director at AC Design Solution. "None of that needs a wholesale extension, even a single-storey rear addition can shift the whole house's character."

4. Layer in texture and colour through fabric

Mid-century interiors were never shy about texture, but they were disciplined with it, one rich fabric doing the talking rather than a room full of competing prints. "From a fabric perspective, the key is to embrace texture and warmth," says Debbie Leigh, design manager at ILIV.

"Try incorporating rich weaves, soft-touch velvets and durable linens that echo the tactile quality of heritage interiors. Earthy tones such as terracotta, saddle brown, ochre, and muted sage are ideal for this look, as well as subtle geometrics and tribal-inspired patterns.

"Layering is also essential to achieving a lived-in, welcoming feel, and combining statement upholstery with softer accents, like cushions and throws, is a great way to introduce depth and comfort," adds Debbie.

"Window dressings also play a vital role as creating an indoor-outdoor connection is vital to this style. To enhance this, choose relaxed, flowing fabrics that allow natural light to filter through."

This deep, velvet-soft mustard Lionel Sofa by Schplendid is doing exactly that, with the rust and burnt orange cushions layered on top rather than competing with it. If you want to take the pattern a step further, Ally Dowsing-Reynolds offers a good rule of thumb: "Geometric patterns feature heavily in mid-century textiles, and Orla Kiely is a great modern example. Try placing a cushion in one of her fabrics on your sofa or a lampshade on a bedside table to bring a bit of mid-century charm to your bedroom."

Shop for mid-century inspired textiles

5. Bring in fluted joinery and natural materials

Fluted or reeded timber is one of the most versatile mid-century references going – sculptural enough to stand on its own, but subtle enough not to dominate a room. Wrapped around a gentle curve, as it is on this home bar, it reads as much an architectural detail as it does a decoration. It doesn't need a full bar to work either, the same panelling on a kitchen island end, a media unit or a sideboard carries the same softened, tactile quality.

"Natural materials like wood, stone, and leather are essential for the mid-century aesthetic, and they can be mixed with some of the more innovative materials from the period, such as formica or early plastics," says Joe Burton.

"Consider using timber panelling, limewash paint or even simple slatted wood to add warmth and a sense of permanence. These finishes chime with the mid-century ethos of honesty and craftsmanship, creating a backdrop that feels intentional and timeless without the need for a full renovation."

5. Reference mid-century design in the kitchen

As a rule, the mid-century kitchen trend works best as a reference point rather than a recreation. Tamsin Holland, product development manager at Paula Rosa Kitchens. explains why.

"I love how people are using the style as a starting point, rather than recreating it too literally. Freestanding islands, open shelving, practical layouts and clean cabinet lines all nod to mid-century design, while leaving room for personal touches."

Her advice is to let the room's shape do the heavy lifting – with clean lines, a practical kitchen layout, and simple cabinetry – then choose sparingly from there. "Choose one or two references, such as slim handles, open shelving or globe lighting, then keep the rest of the space simple, useful and comfortable for everyday life."

That restraint is easiest to achieve with materials rather than furniture. For example, in a wooden kitchen, a single grain-forward timber, left free of ornate detailing, can carry most of the period reference on its own, leaving room for a worktop or tap in a distinctly modern finish to sit alongside it without conflict.

6. Use screen or dividers to zone an open-plan space

Open-plan living is one of mid-century design's hallmarks, but open-plan was never meant to mean undivided. The style solved this by zoning rather than walling, breaking a larger space into distinct areas while keeping sightlines and light moving freely between them (aka broken-plan living).

It's a habit that's aged particularly well, giving a room enough definition to feel like separate spaces for separate uses, without losing the sense of one continuous, connected home.

A woven or slatted screen, like the ones dividing this space, marks out separate zones for sitting and dining without a solid wall shutting either one off from the light. Plus, the ceiling's timber slatting carries the same material through overhead, so the divide reads as considered

7. Make lighting the room's sculptural centrepiece

"Mid-century modern lighting design is identifiable by its minimal design, opaque globe bulbs, and occasional pops of colour from a palette of red, orange, green, and mustard tones," explains Ally Dowsing-Reynolds. "The shapes are often organic, with curved edges, smooth surfaces, and little fuss or detail."

As a rule, you should look for stems and bases in brass, bronze or walnut rather than chrome, as those warmer metals and woods were the era's defaults, and chrome tends to pull a fitting toward a more industrial or contemporary look.

Similarly, mid-century is a style built on restraint in numbers as much as form, so one sculptural fitting can do the work of a room, rather than a matching suite of pendants and wall lights repeating the same shape everywhere.

9. Use screening outside to soften a boundary, not just fill it

Mid-century design was never just an indoor style, and the same principles of honest materials and clean lines apply just as much to a home's facade as they do to a living room.

For starters, a garden boundary doesn't have to choose between solid and open. This vertical slatted screen does both at once, private enough to screen the interior of the property, and open enough for climbing planting to grow straight through it, rather than sitting in front of it. It's the same logic behind mid-century pergolas and breeze-block walls, allowing light and greenery to pass through rather than blocking them out.

This round stepping-stone path across the lawn is also worth borrowing. It's a simple, geometric way to move through a garden that feels considered rather than decorative, and one of the easiest structural updates to make without touching the house itself.

10. Let materials carry through from indoors to out

One of the subtlest tricks behind a genuinely convincing mid-century scheme is what happens at the threshold. Rather than treating the back door as a hard stop between inside and outside, the style tends to carry the same materials straight through it. Think timber panelling that starts on a ceiling and keeps going under an overhang, or stone that shows up on a chimney breast and again on a feature garden wall.

In this gorgeous outdoor lounging setup by Atkin & Thyme, the timber-clad soffit does exactly that by picking up the same warm, grained tone you'd expect to find on a kitchen cabinet, or a wall of slatted panelling indoors, so the covered terrace reads as an extension of the house. The stacked stone pillar plays the same trick with a second material, honest and unpolished enough to hold its own whether it's inside a living room or holding up a roof outside one.

FAQs

What are the common mistakes that tip a mid-century-inspired scheme into pastiche?

"The biggest mistake I see is treating it as decoration rather than structure, bolting 'mid-century style' furniture and colour palettes onto a room that's still proportioned like a Victorian terrace," says Zaeem Chaudhary.

"It tips into pastiche fast. The style depends on the bones, proportion, glazing, flow, being right first; the furniture and finishes are the last 10%, not the starting point."

Stuart Murray sees the same mistake from a different angle. "Mid-century is a way of designing a space, but people tend to treat it more as a collection of iconic furniture," he says.

"Filling a room with replica chairs, starburst clocks and retro accessories can make it feel like a film set rather than a home. Instead, focus on the principles behind the style, including simplicity, proportion, craftsmanship and practicality.

"Choose a few well-made pieces, give them space to stand out and combine them with contemporary furniture where it makes sense," he says. A successful mid-century interior should feel comfortable and lived in, not like a museum dedicated to one particular era."

What's the single change that will have the biggest impact?

If you only make one structural change, prioritise natural light. "Improving the flow of natural light will have the biggest impact," says Stuart Murray. "That could mean replacing smaller windows with larger ones, widening an opening between the kitchen and living area, or installing slim-framed glazed French doors leading into the garden.

"These changes reflect the way mid-century homes were designed to feel bright, open and connected to their surroundings. You don't need to completely remodel the property. One carefully considered change that improves light and sightlines will often create a stronger mid-century feel than filling a room with period-inspired furniture."

If you loved the mid-century look, find out what to know about renovating a 1950s home, or, if your tastes are retro but more recent, the 1980s is having its own moment too. Think confident colour, sculptural furniture and Rivals-inspired glamour, all reimagined without the excess. Read our guide the 1980s interior design to nail the look at home.

My home gym ideas used to begin and end with a treadmill wedged into a spare corner. Plus a stack of dumbbells I could never find a home for (read: unceremoniously stuffed under the sofa). Well, not anymore. I've vowed to build fitness into my daily life and that means the home gym has earned its place on the floor plan.

Thankfully, when it comes to designing a home gym, there's no single template. For you, that might mean a bespoke garden room with rubber flooring and a wall of mirrors, or a loft space with just enough headroom for a yoga mat. I've even heard of homeowners folding fitness into pool houses and garden annexes, so a swim and a workout happen in the same trip outside. (Not that I'm jealous, honest!)

How seriously you take your training space is entirely down to you. But whichever route appeals, here's where I'm starting, with the ideas that convinced me a home gym could actually look like part of the house.

1. Convert a garden room into your home gym

A garden room is one of the most popular ways to carve out a dedicated home gym, and it's easy to see why. Set apart from the main house, it offers a proper mental separation between 'home' and 'workout,' while still being just a few steps from the back door.

This design keeps things simple and functional: a fold-away treadmill, a tiered dumbbell rack, kettlebells and a full-length mirror are all it takes to cover cardio, strength and form-checking in one modestly-sized room. Open shelving and labelled cubbies keep gloves, resistance bands and smaller kit from spilling across the floor, while a large sliding patio door floods the space with natural light and a garden view, no small motivator on a day when the sofa is calling.

According to James Crane, partner at Crane Garden Buildings, the real appeal of a bespoke garden room lies in its flexibility. "One of the real advantages is that it can evolve with you," he says. "We often design spaces that combine a gym with secure storage for bikes or paddleboards, or even incorporate an area for stretching, yoga or post-workout recovery. Rather than creating a room with a single purpose, homeowners are increasingly looking for flexible spaces that adapt to the way they actually live."

2. Turn a spare room into a fitness studio

Not every home gym needs bold branding and rubber flooring, and this spare room proves the case for something a little softer, with a warm, dusty pink colour scheme and engineered wood flooring.

A full-height mirror makes the most of the light from the window rather than a wall of equipment, a tall column radiator keeps the room warm enough for barefoot stretching sessions, and the fitted wardrobes along the back wall mean mats, blocks and resistance bands can disappear from view the moment the session's over.

Making use of a spare room like this is a smart option if you want it to still feel like part of the house rather than a standalone gym, since the muted palette and furniture-grade equipment can easily transition back into a guest bedroom if duty calls.

3. Convert a garage into a home gym

A garage conversion is one of the most straightforward ways to gain a home gym without touching the footprint of the house, and this bright, white-panelled space shows how much insulation alone can transform a once-cold garage into a usable space.

A multi-station weights machine and a spin bike sit on opposite sides of the room, each anchored by its own rubber mat, while a bright blue exercise mat rolls out into the centre for stretching or floor work.

Leaving enough space to move comfortably between each piece of kit is just as important as the equipment itself. A well-planned layout, with clear zones for cardio, strength and floor work, makes even a modest garage feel bigger than it is. And according to Natalie Mudd, creative director of Knot & Grain, mats do double duty here.

"For those wanting to focus on cardio or strength training, consider adding rubber mats on top of your gym, to zone different areas and protect both your flooring and gym equipment," she says.

Kit out your home gym with these essentials

4. Add a gym to a basement conversion

A basement conversion gym isn't for everyone, since it means working with a below-ground space rather than starting from scratch, but this design shows just how far the finish can be pushed when it's done well. Rich wood panelling, mirrored walls and discreet LED strip lighting along the skirting turn what could easily have been a dark, low-ceilinged afterthought into a space that feels closer to a private member's club.

Here, a cross trainer and treadmill cover cardio, while an adjustable weight bench handles strength work. The mirrored panels work extra hard, checking form and bouncing light around a room with no natural windows.

Top tip: Think about getting ventilation right from the start, as it matters more in underground spaces than in most other home gym settings. A basement typically has little to no natural airflow, so heat and moisture from a workout have nowhere to go without mechanical help – whether that's an extractor fan, a robust dehumidifier, or a proper ventilation system built in from the start.

Get the look

5. Turn your garden shed into a gym

Just as you can convert a shed into a home office, the same logic applies to a home gym, and this compact set-up shows how little space is actually needed to make it work.

Full-height glazed bi-fold doors fold back to open the whole front of the shed to the garden, so a workout doesn't have to feel closed off, while inside, an exercise bike, barbell and weight bench are all the room needs to cover cardio and strength training.

A garden shed conversion is one of the more affordable routes into a dedicated home gym, since you're working with an existing structure rather than building from scratch, though insulation and ventilation are worth getting right from the outset if you want the space to stay usable through a British winter.

6. Combine a gym and home office

If your garden isn't big enough to justify a separate office and a separate gym, this compact modular garden office proves you don't necessarily need to choose. This particular building is Green Retreats' G2 model: an off-the-shelf garden office and gym hybrid, built to just 2.7m x 2.8m, so it makes the most of a small footprint without asking for much of the garden in return.

Inside, a Wattbike takes centre stage, with enough clearance left over for a desk and chair to fold the space back into a workspace when needed. Full-height glazed doors keep the room feeling light and open rather than cramped, and the pale wood interior doubles as a neutral backdrop for both business calls and workouts.

7. Add a home gym to a pool house

If you're already building a pool house, it's worth asking whether it can earn its keep beyond changing and storage. This pool house by Green Retreats splits a single long structure into two distinct zones: a compact gym at one end with a weights bench and turbo trainer, and a bar and seating area at the other, so a swim, a workout and a bit of downtime can all happen without a trip back to the main house.

It also features full-height bi-fold doors that run the length of the building, blurring the line between the pool and the interior and making the gym section feel like an extension of the garden rather than a separate room.

8. Mount a television for motivation

A wall-mounted TV is a small addition with an outsized effect on whether you actually use a home gym. Positioned above eye level here, it keeps the treadmill, rower and spin bike facing something worth watching, whether that's a workout class, a boxset, or the match, turning a solo session into something closer to entertainment than simply endurance.

But before you get too carried away, Makenzie Polden has a word of caution: "Think about where equipment will sit and ensure there are enough sockets for machines, televisions, speakers and charging points without relying on extension leads," she says.

She adds: "One thing we often find when designing garden room gyms is that thoughtful placement of lighting, switches and power points makes the space far more practical to use. If you're considering features such as air conditioning or smart fitness technology, it's easier to plan for them from the outset, although many upgrades can still be retrofitted later if your needs change."

9. Get your gym flooring right

Whatever your workout space looks like, the gym flooring beneath it works harder than almost anything else in the room, protecting both your joints and your subfloor from constant impact.

According to Anwen Davies, product developer at Net World Sports, rubber tile is generally the best flooring for a home gym. "Rubber overall provides the best shock absorption, which is crucial for high impact training and protecting your joints," she says. "The slight give helps to reduce stress on the knees and ankles during plyometrics or jumping exercises, and dropping heavy weights like dumbbells or barbells is safe as the rubber absorbs the impact."

Finish is worth thinking through too, since it affects both look and budget. "Rubber comes in various colours and finishes, making it very easy to choose and customise based on the theme of your workout space," Anwen explains. "But ultimately, the trade-off is the better the tiles look, the higher the price. You can get some highly visual finishes which look amazing, but you will have to pay a higher price."

If you're eyeing a basement conversion, check basement building regulations early, as ceiling height, damp-proofing and fire escapes all affect whether the space can realistically house a gym. Garage conversion costs vary widely too, so budget in insulation and flooring before ripping out the up-and-over door.

I thought decision fatigue was bad enough when I was renovating and extending, but now I realise there's more than one issue at play when you undertake home improvements.

Meet FOBO, a.k.a the 'fear of being outdated'. Equally as distracting, and with the same potential to cause delays or expensive changes, according to experts it's a phenomenon we really need to be conscious of when making choices.

But, with so many ideas and inspiration readily available in today's digital age, it can be hard not to deviate from your original plans. Here's how experts recommend you stay true to yourself.

Why do we get FOBO?

Is FOBO a new issue or one that's always existed? Design experts say it's definitely something they've experienced more of in recent years.

“FOBO is something we see more often now because homeowners are exposed to so many interiors images every day," says Emily Newmarch, design consultant at Kitchens By Holloways. "The main risk is that people start designing for what they have just seen online, rather than for how they actually live," she explains.

Although moodboards, Pinterest saves and influencer favourites are all helpful when making home renovation or self-build plans, we've all experienced the proverbial 'kid in a sweet shop' moment where we are simply overwhelmed with options and keep changing our minds.

And, much like fashion, it can sometimes feel like no sooner is one thing considered a must-have, give it a few weeks and it's replaced by another.

However, unlike fashion which can be a slightly easier fix if you make an impulsive fashion faux pas, the problem with home improvements and FOBO is two-fold:

1. You may be planning months in advance thereby exposing yourself to multiple trends and more opportunity for FOBO to rear its head
2. Purchase impulsively and you can't just pop it at the back of the wardrobe. Fixing it can be costly and time-consuming

How to avoid FOBO when designing your home

So what can you do to battle FOBO? It all starts, says Tom Howley, founder of the eponymous kitchen company, with remembering at this moment in time, it's your house and you need to forget about what may, or may not happen in the future.

“The best way to overcome the fear of your home feeling outdated is to stop designing for an imaginary future buyer and start designing for the life you're living today," he says. "If every decision is made with resale in mind, the space is never truly yours."

In essence, it means sticking to your core likes and dislikes, but if you don't necessarily know what they are, it can be easy to grab onto the latest interior design or paint trends, assuming that this will be the best choice. The risk? FOBO kicks in the moment we see another new idea touted as the 'next best thing.'

Sound familiar? I know it certainly does for me. My Grand Designs project was a number of years in the making and so what I started out imagining for interiors wasn't always what I ended up choosing. As my collection of ideas (at that point in time, mainly magazine cuttings) grew with each passing month, I repeatedly questioned my choices. I asked experts what I could have done to reduce the feelings of FOBO.

1. Start with your home – not with trends

“Your starting point should be the home itself rather than what is currently popular online," says Sophie Chapman, associate & interior designer at The Vawdrey House.

"Consider the age and architecture of the property, how the room is used and which materials already belong naturally within it. A choice that responds to those factors is far less likely to feel outdated than one selected simply because it is fashionable."

"The important thing is for homeowners to understand that they are choosing things for their own personal home, not a showroom," adds Katerina Tchevytchalova, director at K'Arte Design.

2. Think about the fixed elements first

Designing a home is essentially done in layers, and once the main construction is done, there is still another base layer – the fixtures and fittings.

"Always choose and invest first in the elements that are expensive or disruptive to replace like flooring, kitchens, bathrooms, architectural lighting and built-in joinery and choose these with longevity," advises Katerina.

"More trend-led ideas can then be introduced through paint, lighting, wallpaper, textiles and accessories, which are easier to update,” adds Sophie Chapman.

Think about daily touch points too, notes Paul Clifford, MD at Croft. "Hardware, for example, is something you'll use every single day, so it's worth investing in pieces that feel good in the hand, are well made and suit the character of your home. If you get those fundamentals right, you're much less likely to regret your choices later," he says.

3. Question if the new idea will add 'value' to your home

“Consider whether the idea improves how the space works or whether it is purely decorative," recommends Sophie Chapman. "Better storage, adaptable layouts, natural materials and well-made joinery generally have value beyond a particular season," she suggests.

Something that Emily Newmarch supports too, telling us, "a trend is more likely to last if it is rooted in function or natural materials. For example, pantries, breakfast cupboards, timber finishes, stone surfaces and good storage have longevity because they improve how a kitchen design works, as well as how it looks."

4. Don't rush your decisions

"If a trend genuinely resonates with your lifestyle and complements the architecture of your home, there’s no reason not to embrace it," says Katerina Tchevytchalova. But the important thing, she says, is not to jump into hasty decisions.

"Save images for several months without analysing them, then review them together. You’ll often discover recurring colours, materials and architectural details that reveal your genuine style," she expands. "Designing around those common threads almost always results in a home that feels more personal and stands the test of time."

5. Set rules once you have a plan

Although you might feel setting boundaries could be limiting in terms of your choices, it can be the opposite says Lisa O'Hanlon, interiors expert at the Shutter Store.

"People often worry that setting rules at the beginning of a decorating project will limit their creativity, but it usually does the opposite," she says. "Once you have a clear direction in mind, it becomes much easier to ignore distractions and focus on the ideas that genuinely suit your home, rather than feeling tempted by every trend or product you come across."

6. Make sure you own your decisions

Carrying on from the advice to make rules and stick to them, Sophie Chapman says to stay strong once you have made decisions.

"Own it! Don’t worry about what other people might think," says Sophie. "Do what feels right and trust your instincts. And, if you've hired professionals such as interior designers, trust them, they have your best interests at heart."

Save this checklist if you feel you're at risk of FOBO

To help you stay on the straight and narrow, Sophie Chapman suggests you ask yourself the following questions:

• Do I instinctively love it? Or do I just feel like I should have it?
• Would I still choose this if I had not seen it on social media?
• Does it suit the architecture of my home?
• Does it work with the way I live, or am I choosing it only for its appearance?
• Have I liked this material or colour for several years, or only recently?
• Will it work with the pieces I already own?"

Risks of FOBO

While the risks of FOBO can clearly involve potentially expensive and time-consuming changes if you buy or install something, and later change your mind, there's also another risk you may not have considered, according to Tom Howley – and it's the problem of playing it too safe.

In an attempt to avoid FOBO, we may tell ourselves that choosing 'timeless' designs are the solution, but is this equally as detrimental to the finished look as FOBO?

“What we often describe as ‘timeless’ is, in reality, simply low risk," says Tom. "The result is millions of kitchen ideas designed to be little more than a blank canvas – neutrals, predictable layouts, and choices made to appeal to a hypothetical future buyer."

"The problem is, these decisions aren't driven by what people genuinely love; they're driven by the fear of getting it wrong. That's why they feel safe – but it's also why they so often feel indistinguishable from one another,” he continues.

The result? Spaces that end up feeling as dated as if you'd jumped on a passing trend that quickly died out.

“The truth is, timelessness isn't created by certain colours, finishes, or materials. It's created by designing a home around what brings you – personally, individually – joy and allows the space to truly support the way you live,” says Tom.

"Timeless design isn't about stripping away personality – it's about giving personality a lasting foundation. Pair colours you genuinely love with beautifully made cabinetry, thoughtful proportions, quality materials, and appliances and storage solutions that make everyday life easier. Those enduring elements provide longevity, while the personal touches give the space character and joy."

FAQS

How can I tell if something has longevity?

"A good way to judge whether something has longevity is to ask whether it would still look beautiful if you hadn't seen it repeatedly on social media and online," advises Katerina Tchevytchalova.

"Materials with a long design history like natural stone, solid timber, unlacquered brass, linen and real craftsmanship tend to endure because they're valued for their intrinsic qualities rather than because they're fashionable. If a finish has appeared overnight across every influencer's home, it will probably date quickly," she concludes.

Now you're equipped with some strong decision-making skills, find out some of the other interior design rules you can follow when embarking on home improvements, and why taking on a high-low mindset, can save you both time, and money.

If you're considering a new electric car, you'll likely need to book an EV charger installation if you haven't already got one in place.

While new homes will have to have an EV charger fitted as standard in the future, adding one to an existing property feels like it could be a pretty major job – but is it that complicated?

If the world of electric charging is new to you, we asked experts to explain what you should prepare for, what happens on the day, and how to make sure your EV installation runs smoothly.

What to do prior to an EV installation

Once you've chosen your new electric car, you'll then need to establish which is the right charger for your car, and your type of home. While the car dealership (if you have bought a new car) may be able to offer advice, if you've purchased a car second-hand, Andy Pattison, VP of renewable technology at Zuno, a BOXT subsidiary, offers some general tips.

"The right charger really comes down to your car, your home and how you plan to use it. Things like how quickly you want to charge, how often you'll be charging and whether you'd prefer a tethered charger with a built-in cable or an untethered one that gives you more flexibility if you change vehicles, all play a part," he says.

"A specialist installer, such as BOXT, will also make sure the charger is compatible with your vehicle so you're choosing the best option for your setup," Andy notes.

Think carefully about where you want to locate your EV charger

Choosing the right charger also means thinking about where it will be located on the exterior of your home, garage or any type of outbuilding. Location will impact not just how easy it is to access and use, but also how much work is involved in actually installing it.

"Every home is different, but the aim is usually to install the charger as close as possible to where you park, and your home's electrical panel," says Andy Pattison. "This helps keep the wiring tidy, reduces the amount of cable needed and can also help keep installation costs down.

"A standard installation includes up to five metres of cabling, routed through a wall where needed," he advises. "And, if you choose an untethered charger, it's also worth thinking about where you'll keep the charging cable when you're not using it."

As Laura Crombie, Homebuilding & Renovating's content director notes, in 4 things I wish I knew before I installed an EV charger, don't forget to think ahead too. Will you be changing your driveway design at any point in the future? If so, will you still park in the same spot?

Don't forget to check your Wi-Fi signal too

Where you locate your EV charger may also be influenced by the mobile signal in your area. When I purchased an electric car a few years ago, the local signal was really weak. It meant I had to locate the EV charger closer to the house so that it could pick up on the boosted Wi-Fi connection.

Andy Pattison confirms this can impact many homeowners who are looking to install EV chargers and perhaps underestimate that a charger needs more than just an electricity supply to work.

"Most smart EV chargers need a reliable Wi-Fi connection or a good 4G signal so they can access features like remote charging, scheduling and energy monitoring," he explains. "Therefore, before installation, it's worth checking that your Wi-Fi reaches the charger location, as you may need a Wi-Fi booster if the signal is weak.'

Try these Wi-Fi boosters if your EV charger needs a better connection

What to expect from a site assessment

With your charger and location chosen, and your mobile or Wi-Fi signal checked, it's now time to call in the professionals to ensure that what you want is possible, and more importantly, that your electricity supply is sufficient to power an EV charger.

If you live in a newly built home where you already know there is sufficient supply, or that you won't need to upgrade to three-phase electricity for your EV charger as it's already in place, you might even be able to skip a site assessment and opt for a super-quick install instead.

"Getting an EV charger installed can be quicker than most people expect," says Phil Gilbert, director of Net Zero Delivery at E.ON Next. "It starts with a short online quote, including a few questions about your home, some photos of where you want the charger and where your car is usually parked.

"If everything looks suitable, order before 3pm and we can have an installer out as soon as the next working day," he says, "or you can pick a date that suits you better."

But, if you do need a site assessment first, Andy Pattison says it's still a relatively simple process and is put in place to, "make sure everything is suitable and flag if any upgrades are needed before installation.

"An experienced electrician will assess your property's electrical system to check that your electrical system can handle the extra demand, make sure there's enough capacity and identify the best place to install the charger based on where you park and where your electrical panel is. And, if anything needs upgrading beforehand, they'll flag that too," he explains.

Once your home is identified as suitable, it's then simply a case of confirming your installation date.

The insallation process should take around half a day

Although it's not a quick 20-minute job, an EV charger installation probably takes less time than you think – and you won't necessarily be left without power for hours either.

"Once the installation date arrives, fitting a standard home EV charger usually takes no more than half a day," confirms Andy Pattison, caveating this with saying that this will obviously vary if any extra electrical work is needed.

But, if it is a standard install, Phil Gilbert explains what to expect. "The engineer runs a cable from your consumer unit to the charger, fits an isolator switch and earthing spike and adds surge protection where needed.

“Power only goes off for the time it takes to connect into the consumer unit, usually a matter of minutes, not hours," he continues. "Every install also includes a check with the District Network Operator (DNO) and if your home needs more capacity, the DNO deals with the upgrade directly," continues Phil. "Then, before the installer leaves, they test the charger against your car and register the warranty."

Both experts confirm that you should also receive a thorough explanation of how your EV charger works, including connecting it to the app and talking you through the main features.

Once it's installed, it's then simply a case of plugging in your car and letting it charge.

"How long it takes to charge your car depends on both the charger and the vehicle," says Andy, "but a typical Level 2 home charger can fully charge most cars in around one to eleven hours, which is why many people plug in overnight."

FAQs

Do I need to change my electricity tariff when I install an EV charger?

With every homeowner keen to save on energy bills, the general advice from both our experts is that switching to an EV tariff makes sense if you are installing an EV charger.

"Pairing it with the right tariff is what makes the difference," says Phil Gilbert. "On our Next Drive Smart tariff for example, charging smart overnight at 8p/kWh could save £435 a year compared with a standard variable tariff*, just by letting the car charge itself while you are sleep.”

"It's well worth taking a look at your electricity tariff before your charger is installed, as it can make a big difference to your running costs," agrees Andy Pattison. "Many energy suppliers now offer dedicated EV tariffs with cheaper overnight rates, making home charging much more affordable. If you're looking to make your driving even greener, it's also worth considering a renewable energy tariff," he suggests.

Does my EV charger need to be certified?

The simple answer is yes. Andy Pattison explains why.

"It's important that an EV charger is installed by a fully qualified, experienced electrician who can carry out the work safely and in line with the relevant electrical regulations. Once the installation has been completed and tested, you'll then receive certification from the relevant industry body, such as NAPIT or NICEIC, depending on who the installer is registered with, confirming that the installation meets the required standards."

What can delay an EV installation?

"There are a few things that can hold up an installation," says Andy Pattison. "If you're renting, you'll need your landlord's permission before any work can go ahead. Your home's electrical system also needs to have enough capacity for an EV charger and, in some cases, upgrades may be needed first.

"Having suitable parking and a good Wi-Fi connection for a smart charger will also help things run smoothly," he says. "On the day itself, unexpected electrical work or any unforeseen issues with the property could mean the installation takes a little longer than planned."

What can increase costs for an EV charger installation?

With average costs for an EV charger and installation ranging from £899 - £1,300 at BOXT, and with a starting price of £1,272 at E.ON Next, you'll want to make sure you don't receive any additional or unexpected increases. While most installs with the right pre-assessment checks should run smoothly, Andy Pattison explains what could impact your final bill.

"One of the biggest factors is your home's electrical system," he says. "If your electrical panel needs upgrading before the charger can be installed, that will add to the overall cost. The location of the charger also makes a difference as installing it further away from the electrical panel usually means more cabling and additional labour. It's also worth checking whether you're eligible for any EV charger grants or incentives in advance as these can help reduce the upfront cost."

It's also important not to assume you can't install an EV charger at home if you don't have off-street parking. While this was previously the only way to install one without planning permission (most installs fall under permitted development), this could all be changing soon.

New rules are being proposed to unlock EV charger installation for homes with on-street parking. While it would remove the need for planning approval, consent would still be required from the local highways authority. Nonetheless, it brings the prospect of EV charger installation closer to many homeowners across the UK.

* Tariff saving calculations assume an electric vehicle driving 8,000 miles a year at 3.33 miles per kilowatt, charging 8p per kWh during off-peak Next Drive Smart V6.6 tariff hours; compared to charging at 26.110p/kWh (national average and will vary by region) standard variable tariff rate from 1st July 2026, which is equivalent to £435 saved or a saving of up to 69.36%. T&Cs apply.

Home gyms are one of the most requested additions to self builds and renovations right now. Built in properly, a home gym turns exercise from something you schedule around the rest of life into something built into the house itself, with no commute and no queue for the squat rack required.

But designing a home gym properly takes more than shoving a treadmill in the garage, as these rooms come with demands a spare bedroom or home office simply don't. Heavy equipment needs a floor that can take it, hard training needs a room that can breathe, and a space you'll use several times a week (fingers crossed) needs to feel like somewhere you actually want to work out.

If you're gathering home gym ideas, this guide walks through everything worth asking before you start. From flooring and sizing the room, to structure, ventilation, power and heating, here's what to consider before you pick up a dumbbell.

1. How big does your home gym need to be?

Before buying any equipment, work out whether your space can actually take it. James Crane, partner at Crane Garden Buildings, says the size question should come before anything else.

"One of the biggest mistakes people make when planning a home gym is thinking purely about the equipment, rather than the space itself," he says. "If you're going to use it several times a week, it needs to be somewhere you genuinely enjoy spending time."

As a minimum, James recommends a room of around 2.4 x 2.4m up to 3.0 x 3.0m for yoga, stretching or free weights. If you want a treadmill, rowing machine or full dumbbell rack, you're looking closer to 4.0 x 4.0m to 5.0 x 4.0m, enough room not just for the equipment but to move around it safely.

If your intended space falls short of these, it's worth reconsidering the layout, or the equipment list, before committing to a build.

2. Where will it go?

Where you'll locate your home gym is the next question to answer, and one that often matters as much as size – once the practicalities of daily use come into play.

A garden room has a strong case over converting space within the house. "Having a dedicated space just a few steps from the back door makes it much easier to fit exercise into everyday life," explains James Crane, "which is often the difference between sticking to a fitness routine and giving up after a few weeks."

He also points to the effect of a bright, glazed room over a converted garage or a spare bedroom with small windows. "Large areas of glazing create a much brighter, more motivating environment than a dark, enclosed room, while also giving you a connection to the garden rather than staring at four walls."

That said, a spare room, garage or basement conversion keeps the gym under the same roof and won't eat into your home's footprint with additional square meterage. What's more, basement conversions offer natural sound insulation for heavy lifting or cardio, while garages often come with an existing concrete slab already capable of taking equipment load. The trade-off is usually light and ventilation, as both of these locations will likely need more work to match the airy, glazed feel of a garden room.

3. What structural issues do you need to consider?

Beyond the room itself, a home gym puts specific demands on the building around it, from the floor up. Here's what you should consider from the outset.

Floor loading

Anything heavier than a yoga mat starts asking questions of the floor beneath it, and that matters more the further you get from solid ground.

"If you're planning to install heavier machines or carry out overhead lifts, it's worth checking the floor loading and internal height have been designed to accommodate them," flags Makenzie Polden, marketing manager at Green Retreats.

That's straightforward in a purpose-built garden room, where the spec can account for it from the outset. But, if you're putting a gym above an existing room, a structural engineer will need to sign off on the floor before equipment goes anywhere near it. After all, no one wants an exercise bike falling through the ceiling.

The type of flooring you install does a lot of work too. It needs to absorb impact from dropped weights, protect the subfloor beneath it, and stand up to repeated use without shifting or wearing through. Rubber tiles or interlocking mats over a solid base are the standard choice, and we've covered the best flooring for a home gym in more detail elsewhere.

Ceiling height

Overhead lifts, pull-up bars and anything involving jumping will all require additional headroom, and a ceiling that feels tall enough at rest can still be too low once you're pressing a barbell overhead. As a rough guide, 2.4m covers most home training, weights, cardio and mat work, but if you're planning on using your home gym for pull-ups or overhead pressing, 2.7m will give you a bit more breathing room.

It's worth remembering plenty of converted garages and outbuildings fall short even of 2.4m, so it's a measurement worth taking before any equipment gets ordered.

Wall fixings

Pull-up bars, wall-mounted racks and mirrors all need something solid to bolt into, not just stud walls and plasterboard, so it's worth checking what's behind the surface before planning anything wall-mounted.

Timber noggins or a plywood backing board fixed to the stud work during first fix give you a solid anchor point later, and it's far easier to plan this in at the build stage than to retrofit once the walls are finished.

Vibration and noise transfer

Dropped weights and cardio machines transmit through a floor more than most furniture does, which is worth thinking about if there's a room directly below, or a neighbour on the other side of a party wall. An acoustic underlay beneath the flooring, or resilient bars in a stud wall, both help absorb impact noise before it travels.

This Premium Mass Loaded Vinyl Soundproofing Mat from Amazon UK is designed to block and reduce airborne noise and can be used on stud walls and timber joisted floors and ceilings.

4. What power and lighting does a home gym need?

A gym draws more from a room's electrics than most people plan for, which is why Makenzie Polden recommends thinking this through before the room goes up, rather than after.

"It's important to plan electrical requirements before construction, ensuring there are enough sockets for equipment, screens or sound systems, and considering plans for the future, such as air conditioning," she says.

Sockets and circuits

Treadmills, bikes, screens and speakers all add up quickly, and running several off one extension lead isn't a long-term solution. Plan electrical sockets around where equipment will actually sit, and build in a bit of spare capacity for anything added later, whether that's a second machine or air con.

Lighting

Natural light does a lot of the work in a home gym, if the room allows for it, with glazed doors or windows making a space feel far more inviting than strip lighting alone. Where extra light is needed, bright, even ceiling lighting suits most training, with a dimmer option worth adding if the space doubles up for yoga or stretching.

LED strip lighting has become a popular addition to home gyms too. Recessed into skirting, shelving or mirrored panels, it adds a subtle glow that lifts the finish of a room. The gym pictured above shows just how effective this can be, with warm strip lighting tracing the base of the mirrored walls, giving the space a boutique, hotel-gym feel rather than a purely functional one.

5. How will you heat your home gym?

Heating gets overlooked more than almost any other part of a building a home gym, yet it's one of the trickiest aspects to get right. Temperatures in these rooms fluctuate far more than a living room or bedroom, so whatever system you choose needs to cope with that swing rather than fight it.

Radiators

"Aluminium radiators that respond quickly and offer precise temperature control are a great option for home gyms," says Nick Duggan, director at The Radiator Centre,"particularly when paired with thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs)."

A gym within the main house can usually run off the existing central heating, with smart controls to heat it only when needed. But if you're heating a garden room or converted outbuilding, an independent electric radiator is your best bet, since these spaces tend to be used in short bursts rather than continuously.

Underfloor heating

If your budget stretches to it, Sam Jump, head of business development at Wunda Group, argues for underfloor heating instead. The appeal for a gym specifically comes down to two things, wall space stays free for storage, mirrors or equipment, and heat spreads evenly across the floor rather than radiating from a single point, avoiding the hot and cold spots that can make a workout uncomfortable.

Modern retrofit UFH systems sit directly on an existing floor without any digging or screed, Sam explains, using boards with pre-routed channels and an aluminium foil layer that "distributes heat quickly and evenly," warming a room in as little as 30 minutes.

The boards can even be laid by a competent homeowner, he notes, "only requiring a qualified heating engineer to hook up the system at final commissioning," so it's more DIY-friendly than people assume. Just add rubber matting in weight-drop zones, as it protects the floor without blocking the heat from coming through everywhere else.

6. How do you ventilate a home gym?

"Exercise generates heat and moisture, so proper ventilation is essential to prevent condensation and maintain air quality," explains Makenzie Polden. "Trickle vents built into doors are often sufficient for background ventilation." For anything more intensive, she points to air conditioning with integrated filtration as the next step up, worth factoring in alongside the heating options covered above if the room's likely to see heavy or frequent use.

It's worth building good habits around ventilation too. Opening a window or door straight after a session, rather than closing the room up while it's still warm and humid, does a lot to stop moisture settling into walls and flooring. A humidity monitor – like this TempPro TP50 Digital Thermo-Hygrometer from Amazon UK – is also a cheap, low-effort way to keep tabs on this, particularly in a garden room or outbuilding without the airflow of the main house.

7. What equipment do you need for a home gym?

The right kit depends entirely on what you're training for, but a few principles hold true whatever the focus. Start with your two or three biggest pieces of equipment – a rack, a bench, a cardio machine – and plan the room around those first rather than fitting them in around everything else. Multi-function equipment, such as an adjustable bench, is often a smarter starting point too, while you're still working out what you'll actually use week to week.

The materials you chose matter as much as choice of kit. "Steel fitness equipment is an excellent choice for home gyms thanks to its strength and durability," says Leigh Start, managing director at The Metal Store. Galvanised steel tube in particular "is designed to withstand years of regular use," he adds, resisting corrosion in a way that suits a home gym's fluctuating temperatures and humidity.

A few smaller additions are easy to overlook but make a real difference day to day, such as a wall mirror for checking form, a mat for floor work, and proper storage for dumbbells, kettlebells and resistance bands.

Leigh stresses this final point: "Leaving enough space to move comfortably between workout stations and complete exercises safely is just as important as selecting the equipment itself," he says. "A well-planned layout, complete with gym storage, will make the room feel larger and encourage regular use."

8. How much should you budget for a home gym?

"When budgeting for a home gym, it's important to factor in more than just the initial build cost," says Makenzie Polden. "Flooring, electrics, heating, lighting, ventilation and any specialist equipment can all add to the overall investment." Skimping on any one of these tends to show up as a bigger cost later.

Costs will vary hugely depending on the route you take, from a few thousand pounds converting an existing room to tens of thousands for a fully specified garden room or extension. According to Checkatrade a garage conversion is generally the most affordable option, typically running £8,000 to £14,000 for a basic conversion, or up to £25,000 for a high-spec detached garage with new services.

A garden room sits in the middle, with a 20m² garden gym typically costing around £26,000 to £32,000 fully insulated and wired, though basic modular kits can start much lower, from around £14,995 for a smaller 9m² room. A bespoke extension built specifically as a gym costs the most, since it carries full foundation and planning costs, with a 20m² brick extension landing at roughly £50,000 to £70,000.

FAQs

If building a garden room for a home gym, do you need planning permission?

"In many cases, a garden gym can be built under permitted development rights, meaning planning permission isn't always required," says James Crane. "However, this depends on factors such as the building's size, height, location within the garden and whether your property has any planning restrictions, such as being listed or within a conservation area." He recommends checking with the local planning authority before committing to a design, "as requirements can vary between properties and locations."

Do you need a water supply for a home gym?

It depends on how you want to use the room. If you're planning changing facilities, a shower or even just a tap for hydration, you'll need to connect to a water supply, which brings plumbing, drainage and building regs into the project in a way a simple training room doesn't. For most home gyms, though, a nearby bathroom or utility room is enough, and running a water supply purely for a gym rarely justifies the extra cost and complexity unless the room's some distance from the house.

A garage is one of the most popular spots for a home gym conversion, as much of the structure is already there and it doesn't eat into garden space. Read our garage conversion ideas for layout, lighting and insulation inspiration. Or, if you'd like to keep your garage for cars or DIY, take a look at how to extend over a garage instead.

Installing a home EV charger isn't simply a matter of plugging it in and going – there are lots of rules to keep in mind, or it could result in legal action being taken against you.

But it's not just unlimited fines and a potential criminal record you need to be wary of; a non-compliant installation could also void your home's insurance and cause problems when it comes to selling or remortgaging.

To help you dodge unwanted legal consequences, we spoke with three lawyers, who shared five of the biggest home EV charging mistakes below.

1. Trailing a charging cable across a pavement

Problem: If your charging cable trails across a pavement, it could be seen as obstructing a public highway without lawful authority under the Highways Act 1980.

“Whether a cable is considered an unlawful obstruction depends on factors such as: how busy the pavement is; whether wheelchair users or visually impaired pedestrians are affected; how long the cable remains in place; and whether any protective cable cover adequately reduces the hazard," explains Anna Fouracre, Planning Partner at Keystone Law.

Consequence: You may be required to remove the cable immediately, or the local council may take enforcement action.

2. Installing a charger without the necessary permissions

Problem: While many EV chargers are installed under permitted development rights and do not require planning permission, Anna Fouracre says it's a different story if:

• The property is a listed building
• The property is in certain protected areas
• The charger exceeds permitted development limits
• The installation forms part of a larger development

Consequence: The local planning authority may investigate the development, request to submit a retrospective planning application, issue a planning enforcement notice requiring alteration or removal.

A planning breach isn't usually a criminal offence, but if you fail to comply with enforcement, it could turn into one, explains Anna.

The consequences are "significantly more serious" on a listed property and you could face criminal prosecution, unlimited fines, or imprisonment in the most serious cases.

3. Digging into or altering the pavement

Problem: Since public pavements are usually maintained by the local highway authority, Anna Fouracre explains that digging into them, cutting channels for cables, or installing ducts without permission is generally unlawful.

Consequence: You may be issued with an immediate stop-work order, have to reinstate the pavement at your own expense, have the repair costs recovered by the highway authority, or be prosecuted for unauthorised street works. You may even be liable if a hazard is created.

4. Installing a charger that doesn't comply with Building Regulations

Problem: EV chargers shouldn't be treated like a regular home appliance – they need to be professionally installed to comply with the Building Regulations 2010.

Consequence: Joe Pepper, Partner at Bridge McFarland, says the local authority may take enforcement action under the Building Act 1984, including requiring non-compliant work to be removed or altered.

"In appropriate cases, breach of the Building Regulations may also expose the person responsible to prosecution and financial penalties," he adds.

5. Creating or using an unauthorised vehicle crossing

Problem: If you're regularly driving across a kerb, footway or verge without an authorised crossing, it could get you into trouble with the highway authority.

Consequence: According to Alex Harvey, Head of General Litigation at HCB Widdows Mason, you may be required to create an approved crossing or pay the cost of the works.

If the crossing has caused damage to the highway, Alex adds that you may also have to cover the repair costs, which is why it's always worth getting approval first. Our guide to dropped kerb planning permission explains what you need to know.

The best way to avoid these home EV charging mistakes is to work with a qualified installer who will know the rules and regulations you need to follow.

For more advice, read four things I wish I knew before installing an EV charger or find out whether you can cover an EV charger.

If you've ever undertaken a self-build, renovation or extension project you'll recognise the feeling of overwhelm that always arrives at some point during your project.

It usually arrives when someone is asking you to make yet another decision, and while it may not even be a big one, suddenly, decision fatigue kicks in, and you can't even remember why you started this whole project in the first place.

Having experienced it first-hand, I know only too well what it feels like. Keen to avoid others feeling the same, I asked design and build experts what you can do to avoid it, how they help clients manage it, and what they do to prevent it happening to them on your project.

When is decision fatigue most likely to hit you?

Of all the experts we spoke to, one thing was clear. We tend to be great at the start of a project when the bigger decisions need to be made, but as you drill down into the finer details, that's when we can start to stumble.

“We often find that decision fatigue appears once the main design decisions have been made and clients reach the detailed specification stage," Sophie Chapman, interior designer and associate at The Vawdrey House tells us.

"Choosing a layout or agreeing the overall direction can feel exciting, but the volume of smaller decisions that follows, from ironmongery and switches to grout colours, sanitaryware and internal finishes, can become overwhelming," she confirms.

Kitchen renovations are a prime example of the minute level of detail that needs our attention, says Emily Newmarch, design consultant at Kitchens by Holloways, and one where you might start to question yourself.

“It's always when the client realises how many smaller decisions still need to be made, and, in a kitchen renovation, that can mean anything from appliance positions, extraction, sockets and kitchen lighting, to internal storage, handles, worktops, taps, paint colours and flooring. These decisions may feel small on their own, but together they can become overwhelming," she explains.

Why is decision fatigue a problem?

Does it really matter if you can't make a decision about something small? Quite simply, yes, say the experts.

While bigger decisions will naturally have more of an impact, even the detailed choices can all have consequences. This is primarily in two ways, as Sophie Chapman explains.

“The first is delayed decision-making. This can hold up ordering and create knock-on effects across the building schedule," she warns.

"At the other end of the scale, a client may also make a rushed decision simply to move the project forward and later regret it. A clear approvals process helps protect both the programme and the design.”

It's something I can relate to having made questionable decisions about a media wall towards the end of a project at a point when both timings and budget were tight. I simply couldn't choose what to do, made a panic decision and regretted it the minute it was installed.

Expert-approved steps to avoiding decision fatigue

While we can't promise that you won't ever get decision fatigue when homebuilding or renovating, there's no doubt there are ways to prevent it from causing total overwhelm, and to help get you back on track.

When working on my biggest project, my must-have was an insanely detailed spreadsheet that took on a life of its own. It contained the jobs to be done, who was doing them, what items to buy or source for each room, checklists of progress, supplier details and probably even which builder had tea, coffee and how many sugars they took. It was the only way I could manage the hundreds of decisions that come with a large-scale listed building extension project.

But what else do the experts recommend?

1. Have a clear and detailed brief

In the same way a detailed spreadsheet can keep you on track once you've started your project, an informed brief from the outset is what helps you to decide what needs to go on there, and is a must-have says Sophie Chapman.

"At the beginning of a project, we spend time establishing how the client wants to live, what they genuinely need and which elements matter most to them. This gives us something consistent to refer back to when choices arise later."

It can be invaluable if you are questioning why you want a certain piece of furniture, more kitchen storage or even why you are choosing a certain type of flooring. Once you remember your original plans, it becomes easier to make a final decision.

"Agreeing an overall material and colour palette early on also helps with the process too," she adds, "as each individual decision then forms part of an established scheme rather than being made in isolation."

2. Follow a clear timeline and decision-making schedule

Another way to avoid decision fatigue is by knowing in advance when decisions will need to be made. As well as being able to mentally prepare yourself for another round of 'this or that', it avoids panic purchasing.

"A decision schedule can be invaluable," agrees Sophie. "It allows clients to see what needs to be agreed and when, so choices can be made in a logical order rather than under last-minute pressure.

"To help with this, we break the process down into clear stages that naturally build the project, so nothing feels like a sudden or unexpected decision," she continues.

The added benefit? It can also make the process quicker in the long run.

"As the scheme develops and clients begin to see how each choice contributes to the wider design, their confidence grows and they become more assured in their decision-making," notes Sophie.

3. Understand the bigger impact in larger projects

"One of the best ways to avoid decision fatigue if you're adding a kitchen extension, or embarking on a large renovation is to get the layout and spatial planning right first," says Emily Newmarch.

"Before even looking at finishes, homeowners need to understand how the kitchen will connect to the rest of the home, how people will move through the space and how the main zones will work together.

"Once those foundations are clear, the remaining choices become much easier to make," she notes.

It's a process Lisa O'Hanlon, interior expert at the Shutter Store, refers to as a decision hierarchy.

"One of the biggest mistakes we see is homeowners giving every decorating decision the same amount of attention, when in reality some choices will have a much greater impact on the finished space than others.

"It's easy to get caught up choosing cushions, lamps or decorative accessories because they're the enjoyable part of decorating," she says, "but those pieces should complement the room rather than define it.

"The decisions that deserve the most thought are the ones you'll be living with every day and that are much harder to change, whether that's your flooring, wall colour, shutters or larger furniture.

"Once those key elements are in place, the rest of the room tends to come together much more naturally," she explains. "Rather than trying to make every item work independently, you're making decisions that support an established direction, which makes the whole process feel far less overwhelming. It also creates a more cohesive finish, as every layer of the room is building on the choices you've already made, rather than competing with them."

4. Trust the experts – less is more

If, like me, you have countless Pinterest boards filled with interior design inspiration, it's no wonder that you may start a project feeling the effects of decision fatigue – without having even yet made a decision.

It's why experts will always take a less is more approach, and it's why you should trust in it.

"We always curate the options rather than presenting an endless range," says Sophie Chapman. "Two or three well-considered choices are usually far more useful than 20 similar ones."

Emily Newmarch takes up the reins, telling us, "as designers, our role is often to reduce the number of decisions rather than add to them. Instead of presenting endless options, we narrow down the choices based on the client’s brief, lifestyle, budget and the architecture of the home. Too much choice can slow a project down and make people second-guess themselves."

Katerina Tchevytchalova, director at K’Arte Design is even firmer in her process, believing that two options is enough for her clients.

"Option number one being what I believe is the best solution, and then option two in case they reject my initial proposal." Why only two? "I feel that this is exactly why clients hire interior designers," she says. "To eliminate endless choice of options and give them guidance to the best solution."

5. Don't be too influenced by others

"One of the easiest ways to lose confidence in a decorating project is by trying to recreate rooms you've seen elsewhere," says Lisa O'Hanlon.

"Every home has different proportions, lighting and ways of living, so what works beautifully in one property won't always translate into another. Focusing on how you want your own space to function and feel helps you make decisions that are much more personal, rather than chasing someone else's idea of the perfect room.

"Once you've narrowed your shortlist down, the most valuable thing you can do is stop searching and start comparing them in the space itself," she advises.

"It's amazing how different a paint colour, fabric or finish can look once it's in your home rather than on a phone screen or in a showroom. Natural light changes throughout the day, existing furniture influences how colours are perceived, and the overall size of a room can completely alter the feel of a material or finish," she continues.

"Taking the time to live with a few samples for a day or two often gives homeowners far more confidence than continuing to scroll through endless alternatives online," says Lisa, "because you're making a decision based on your own home rather than somebody else's."

FAQs

Does the size of project make a difference when it comes to decision fatigue?

If you were feeling smug about the smaller nature of your project, assuming you won't get decision fatigue, I'm afraid to say you shouldn't sit back on your laurels just yet.

Size really is irrelevant when it comes to decision fatigue – and in fact smaller projects may induce even more overwhelm as a result of the desire to get the best out of your budget.

"I think smaller projects can actually end up being more problematic," confirms Katerina Tchevytchalova. "With large projects there is usually more budget and more time to make the decisions, whereas in smaller projects the clients tend to overthink every decision."

And, it's the same according to our other experts as well. I must admit, although I'd initially assumed it was larger projects that were the main cause of decision fatigue, in hindsight, I've experienced it regardless of the job in hand.

While extending a listed building was a big project, and one where it got to the point that some days I could barely decide if I wanted another coffee, let alone which colour bathroom tiles to choose, it's even reared his head during a recent small hallway makeover when I couldn't decide how many shelves to have in my shoe storage.

So why is it that size isn't really relevant?

“Large renovations naturally involve more decisions, but smaller projects can be just as difficult because every choice is highly visible," explains Sophie Chapman. "In a compact kitchen or small bathroom, for example, a relatively small number of materials and fittings may need to work especially hard together.

"Problems also often arise when a project appears simple at the outset, so the same level of planning is not applied," she adds.

It's the same on kitchen-related projects too, confirms Emily Newmarch. "Decision fatigue is more common on larger renovations because there are more moving parts, but smaller projects can be just as difficult.

"In a small kitchen for example, every decision matters because there is less room for compromise. A sink in the wrong position, a kitchen island that is too large, or a storage choice that does not suit the way the homeowner cooks can have a big impact."

How do experts avoid decision fatigue?

Given you may have your own decision fatigue issues, it's fair to wonder if professionals struggle with the same feelings when designing other people's projects – including yours.

It seems it's the same sense of structure that help them avoid it.

“A strong design concept provides a framework for every later decision. We also make decisions in the right sequence," says Sophie Chapman. "The layout, building services and fixed joinery need to be resolved before decorative details, as each stage informs the next.

"Samples, drawings and mock-ups are also helpful," she adds, "because they allow several elements to be reviewed together rather than relying on isolated product images.”

Of course, there's also experience and expertise that mean while you may be making the decisions for the first time, it's second nature to them.

"Years of working with materials and suppliers mean many decisions become instinctive," confirms Katerina Tchevytchalova, telling us, "I rely on proven combinations, trusted manufacturers and an understanding of proportion and balance, rather than starting with a blank canvas every time."

I would also add to this list, the fact they don't have an emotional attachment to the project as one of the reasons why they don't experience decision fatigue in the same way as a homeowner.

What caused me sleepless nights was the worry of making a wrong decision and having to look at it every day. I did, of course, make some, and had to live with them, but without that fear, decision-making becomes more logical than personal.

Katerina Tchevytchalova shares her final piece of advice if you feel decision fatigue is starting to creep into your project.

"One situation we see quite often is clients continuing to browse social media after key selections have already been approved. They discover a new kitchen trend, tile or light fitting halfway through the build and begin questioning earlier decisions.

"I therefore always encourage clients to trust the design direction they've invested time in developing rather than chasing every new interior design trend that appears online," she states.

Something that Lisa O'Hanlon also supports. "We've seen homeowners delay projects for months because they're waiting to feel one hundred per cent certain about every choice. The reality is that homes are designed to evolve over time. Accessories can be updated, furniture can be moved and walls can always be repainted.

"Sometimes the best thing you can do is trust the decisions you've already made and enjoy living in the space you've created."

Words I'd heed, as if you don't, you could end up ricocheting out of decision fatigue into another common syndrome referred to as 'fear of being outdated' or FOBO. Combine the two and you'll undoubtedly experience delays that could have been avoided if you define your path, and stick to it.

If you're considering installing an EV charger as part of your home improvement plans, you may be wondering if your home has enough power to support its energy consumption.

Plus, with everything in terms of how you power and heat your home leaning towards electricity as the main source – rather than splitting the load with gas – it's not uncommon to see advice that says you should be switching to a three-phase electricity supply if you're installing an EV charger.

But, is that always the case and how do you know if you need to upgrade your supply or not? Energy expert David Hilton explains what to consider.

What is three-phase electricity?

There are two different types of electric supply that you can have to your home. The most common, single phase, is the 240-volt supply that most homes have, which has two wires – one active and one neutral, (I know there is a third wire but that is the earth, not the power) and drops to zero 50 times a second.

The alternative, three phase electricity, has three active wires so delivers a steady, constant stream of power that never drops to zero, effectively delivering three times more power.

In basic terms this means you can run more electricity-based appliances or items at any one time.

Understanding how your home uses power, and what each item draws down from your electricity supply so you figure out a total load seems like the way to establish if you will need to upgrade to a three-phase supply for an EV charger.

But, before you rush off and start reading the energy labels on all of your appliances and create some complex spreadsheet, or ask AI to try and work out how much energy your home will use, let me simplify it for you.

Do I need three-phase electricity for an EV charger?

First and foremost, it is fair to say that not all of your household appliances will be running at the same time, and definitely not flat out and full speed.

But, what is accurate, is that when we look at all the things that use electricity in the home the one that can potentially use the most energy is electric vehicle charging. And, this is why the figures need a bit more consideration, starting with assessing how many miles you do a day and how many electric cars belong to family members in the home.

As an example, if you only have two electric cars, and you each do around 40 to 50 miles a day, this means if your electric vehicle has a reasonable range then you could each plug the car in every second night and generate around 100 miles of charge per car.

I say night time, as most of the time you would set the charger to charge the car during this cheaper period – depending on who your energy provider is and what tariff you are on.

If your home has a single-phase supply, however, then this brings some limitations. You can only charge the car a maximum of 7.2kW as this is the limit on a single-phase EV charger. That equates to around 22 to 29 miles of range for every hour it is plugged in.

In my case, my electric vehicle only delivered around three miles per kilowatt, so I could charge a maximum of 132 miles on the cheaper rate overnight. But, this wasn't much use if I needed to go on a long journey as the battery capacity in my vehicle was actually 82kWh. So, it took two overnight stints to charge my vehicle to full when it was very low.

The additional problem with EV charging using a single-phase supply in a case like mine? No one else could charge during that time, potentially leaving cars without any power.

So, if you have more than two cars, or someone really needs a full charge in one go, then yes, you may find you may need to consider a three-phase electric supply. And, although it may not seem like a problem now if you haven't yet switched to electric vehicles, it is likely to be one in the future.

Can you manage without upgrading?

That said, despite the fact it may be needed in the future, in our family home we do not have a three-phase supply, and we are not planning to change to one yet.

We have a single-phase 100 Amp supply and have an EV car charger, solar PV panels, air source heat pump, double electric oven and an induction hob, plus the usual other appliances such as TV, PlayStation, washing machine and tumble dryer (we have changed to a heat pump tumble dryer which has a lower energy use).

We know that there may be some pinch points with EV charging in the future but feel that with some careful planning and management, we can avoid any issues.

One of the additional measures we have put in place to prevent problems is that the car charger we have has devices connected to it called CT clamps. These monitor the amount of energy the home is using, and if the load gets too high then the car charger simply ‘slows down’ and charges the car at a lower rate.

In summary, in my experience, if you have an average-size home, a decent single-phase electric supply and a minimum of 100 Amps, then a three-phase electric supply is not always essential even if you have a lot of electro-tech fitted to the home.

On a larger home, however, the three-phase supply becomes more important and can add a lot more convenience, especially with EV car charging, as well as reducing the need for appliance management.

The size and value of the home combined with the cost to install a three-phase supply, plus your personal wish for convenience, and how many cars you need to charge, will likely be the deciding factors. For a new self build, it would certainly make sense, but for a home renovation, you may be able to manage with what you have, for now.

If your EV charger is spoiling the aesthetic of your driveway design, or their appearance is putting you off getting one altogether, you might be wondering whether you can cover it.

While the answer is technically yes, there are a few caveats worth bearing in mind, such as how it may impact your warranty and whether the cover is designed with sufficient ventilation.

To find out how to safely disguise your EV charger without causing damage to the unit, your home or the guarantee, keep reading to hear what our experts have to say.

Can I cover my EV charger?

Yes, you can cover an EV charger, but Simon Youngman, Head of Renewables at DW Renewable Energy, warns that "a badly designed cover can make the installation less safe". For that reason (and more), a manufacturer-approved design is always the safest route to go down if you are looking to conceal your charger from view.

It might be cheaper to stick it in any old cupboard or create a DIY cover, but you may end up trapping heat while it charges, and it could even promote condensation – not a healthy mix for electrics, as we know. With that in mind, it's important to choose a specially made cover that is manufacturer approved, or not cover it at all.

Covering your EV charger could also create a fire risk if ventilation is restricted, adds David Martell, CEO of Andersen EV. Many chargers are made with a built-in ventilation system to keep them cool in extreme heat, so it's important not to block this.

"The cover must allow the charger and any nearby electrical isolator to be accessed quickly," Simon says. "The charging cable should not be tightly bent, pinched in a door or allowed to sit in standing water. There should also be sufficient space for an electrician to remove the front of the charger and carry out maintenance."

It's not just safety to keep in mind – David says that your vehicle may take longer to charge and the manufacturer's warranty could be affected.

Here's a quick round-up of the risks you need to know:

• Trapped heat
• Condensation
• Fire hazard if ventillation is restricted
• Reduced access
• Longer charging time
• Invalidated warranty

How can I disguise my EV charger?

"The best approach is to consider the appearance of the charger before it is installed, rather than trying to cover it afterwards." says Simon Youngman.

Some chargers are available in a range of colours and finishes or with built-in cable storage, making them more aesthetically pleasing. Our Content Editor, Laura Crombie, opted for a wood-clad box by Anderson for hers.

If you've already invested in a unit, Simon recommends disguising the installation area rather than covering the charger itself. "I would position it on a side wall, behind a gate, inside an open carport or on a discreet pedestal. It still needs to be somewhere that the driver can easily reach without stretching the charging cable across a footpath or driving area."

You could also try a decorative screening idea or louvred surround to help conceal the unit while keeping the ventilation intact. However, Simon would avoid using plants to hide it, as they can become caught, retain moisture and restrict access.

Does putting an EV charger in a box void the warranty?

Potentially, but it will ultimately depend on your manufacturer's specific warranty.

"Most domestic EV chargers are designed and tested for permanent outdoor installation, so putting one inside a homemade cabinet can change its operating conditions," explains Simon Youngman. "If a manufacturer believes an enclosure contributed to a fault, they may reject the warranty claim."

That's why it's key to check the installation manual and get approval in writing from the manufacturer or an approved installer.

After speaking with the experts, the message is clear: covering your EV charger with something that is not manufacturer approved is not a good idea and can lead to a long list of problems – from voiding your warranty to safety risks.

For more advice, read about the things I wish I knew before installing an EV charger or find out what an electro-tech home is.

With 1.4 million units installed by the end of 2025¹, home EV charging is on the rise – and we're not surprised why. Charging at home is considerably cheaper than using public points, not to mention more convenient, with no forward planning required.

However, before you decide to splash out on this popular home upgrade, Content Director Laura Crombie says there are a few things you'll need to consider first, such as ensuring your home's power supply is compatible.

Below, we've put together a four-point checklist covering everything you need to think about beforehand.

1. Future-proof the location

Before installing your EV charger, Laura says to ask yourself two important questions: Will you change the layout of your driveway design in the future? And if so, will the charger still be in the best place?

Installation isn’t a cheap task, so ensuring that your charging unit is future-proofed – regardless of how you may change things around – should be high on your priority list. The last thing you want is to pay the cost of relocating it a few years later.

2. Check your power supply

Next up, you'll need to check whether your home's power supply is compatible with your EV charger.

Most home EV chargers are rated at 7.4kW (32A), which typically requires a 230V single-phase supply and a 32A circuit. However, your best bet is to find a qualified installer who can assess whether any home upgrades need to be made.

When it came to installing Laura's EV charger, an additional consumer unit had to be installed in her garage, proving the job may not be as straightforward as you might expect.

3. Consider the aesthetics

Contrary to what you might think, your EV charger doesn't have to be an eyesore in your garage design – some brands (such as Andersen) come with an aesthetically pleasing cover box where you can customise its appearance. Alternatively, you can buy these covers separately, like the one below from Amazon.

"Boxes don't have to be boring," says Laura. "We have a wood-clad Andersen EV box that looks attractive."

4. Change your electricity tariff straight away

Laura's next tip is to double-check you're on the best electricity tarriff for EV chargers, and, if not, change it as soon as possible.

She opted for Octopus' EV tariff, which costs less to charge overnight. However, many other energy providers also offer discounted rates during off-peak hours, so it's worth comparing all of your options. These tariffs work in most people's favour, as you can plug your car in while you sleep and wake up to a fully charged vehicle that's ready to go.

By following this handy checklist, you won't need to worry about expensive fixes, such as moving the charging unit or getting stuck on the wrong energy tariff, later down the line.

For more expert advice, read our guide on what an electro-tech home is or how to work out your energy needs.

¹ZapMap

Decorating is the last thing you want to do when a heatwave strikes, but if your renovation deadline is quickly approaching, you may feel you have no choice but to get stuck in.

It might seem sensible to just crack on with your DIY jobs, but experts have warned that doing so could be counterproductive – and could even result in you having to redo the task all over again.

Below, we reveal the decorating job you should never attempt in hot weather and what could happen if you do.

What decorating job should I avoid in a heatwave?

Painting is the worst decorating job to tackle during heatwave, according to Faith Jones, painter and decorator at TaskHer. She says it's "one of those things people don’t think about until it’s gone wrong."

The reason is that paint dries quicker than it should in hot weather, making it difficult to maintain a consistent wet edge. The result? Patchy finishes, visible brush or roller marks, and lap marks that don't level out.

Faith explains that higher-sheen paints, such as satinwood, eggshell and gloss, are the worst offenders, as they are more likely to show application marks. However, she adds that caulks and exterior coatings can also be affected, so "patience really does pay off."

"I always advise homeowners to avoid painting in direct sunlight, particularly exterior walls, fences or south-facing rooms, and to work during the coolest parts of the day, ideally early morning," she says.

"It’s also worth remembering that surfaces can be much hotter than the air temperature, even if it doesn’t feel especially warm outside. My advice is always: if in doubt, wait it out. A rushed decorating job during a heatwave is rarely as good as one completed under the right conditions."

It's not just applying paint that you should avoid. Stripping it off with a heat gun is also a bad idea, according to Jackie Sanders, founder of Signature Interior Finishes.

Not only will the heat gun generate additional heat (making the job even more uncomfortable), but the paint fumes can also feel more intense in hot, humid conditions. With that in mind, Jackie recommends avoiding this task during a heatwave.

No time to waste? These products can help

As we've learned, decorating in hot weather isn't just physically unpleasant; it can also be a complete waste of time if you end up having to repaint over brush marks a few days later. So, if you can afford to delay your painting projects a little longer, it's highly recommended.

If you're struggling to beat the heat, check out our tried-and-tested round-up of the best cooling fans or find out how UV might be damaging your home without you realising it.

I love a heatwave for the simple reason that it means long balmy evenings spent round the fire pit and the chance to eat dinners al fresco. But what I don't love is the effect it's having on my home.

First I noticed an outdoor cushion had faded from a beautifully printed design to a barely-there smudge. Next, my beloved houseplants started crisping at the edges, no matter how much time I took to mist them. Then, when I finally moved my favourite armchair away from the window in my living room, the back of it was a whole shade lighter than the front, having bleached away for weeks while I sat there none the wiser.

I'd been closing the odd curtain on the worst afternoons and telling myself that counted as doing something about it, but clearly it wasn't enough. So instead of watching everything in my house fade and crisp around me, I went to find out what was actually going on, and what could be done about it before it got any worse.

1. Exterior paintwork and render

I started outside my home, on the assumption that whatever was fading my cushion was probably doing the same to the paintwork and render too. It turns out I wasn't wrong.

Joe Burton, materials specialist at The Brick Tile Co, confirmed my suspicions. "For exterior paints and renders, prolonged exposure leads to fading, chalking and cracking as UV breaks down the polymer bonds in the resin," he explains. "This process is cumulative and accelerates when combined with temperature changes and moisture."

The good news is that a lot of this is avoidable with the right products. "UV-resistant paints and coatings formulated with high-quality polymers or acrylics offer better resistance to chalking and fading," Joe tells me.

2. Windows, fascias and frames

It was a similar story with my windows and doors, according to Darren Coates, sales director at SolarFrame.

"South and west-facing elevations usually take the worst of it, because they tend to get the strongest sun later on in the day," he says. "With lower-quality or older uPVC windows, you can sometimes see discolouration over time, particularly on elevations that get hammered by the sun every afternoon."

It's not just the glass and frames either. "Door slabs, trims, seals and external finishes can also start to look worn if they've had years of UV exposure, heat and bad weather working against them," Darren adds.

His advice is to think about this when selecting windows and specifying these details, not after. "At the planning or specification stage, homeowners should think about where the sun hits the property hardest. If a side of the house gets strong sun for hours every day, that's where frame material, window colour choice, glazing specification and roof design really matter."

But for anyone like me, already living with older frames, he adds that maintenance matters too.

"Don't attack frames or doors with harsh chemicals, abrasive pads or pressure washers right up close, because you can damage the surface and make weathering look worse. A gentle clean with the right products is usually all they need."

3. Cladding and roof coverings

Thankfully, my home is made of stone, so I don't have any external cladding to worry about, but plenty of homeowners do, so I asked Lisa Grosse, regional product and marketing lead at Cedral, what she sees most often.

"UV exposure can cause exterior materials to fade, bleach or discolour, while high temperatures can make them expand, contract or warp," she says. "South-facing elevations are particularly vulnerable because they receive the most direct sunlight."

Timber cladding tends to bear the brunt of it, changing colour and moving over time. "If that movement damages the facade or creates gaps, it could also increase the risk of water ingress later in the year," she warns.

Roofs aren't spared either. "Roofing materials can also be affected by heat and sun exposure. Rising temperatures may cause blistering or cracking on roof tiles and slates, and can also affect sealants," Lisa says.

Her advice is to think about durability as much as appearance when specifying materials. "Materials with good thermal stability are particularly important on exposed elevations because they are less likely to warp or crack."

Fibre cement is one option worth asking about, since it's designed to withstand years of heat and direct sun without warping.

It's also worth remembering that garden rooms and sheds are usually built from the same cladding and roofing materials as the house itself, so they're just as exposed, sometimes more so, given how little shelter most gardens offer.

4. Decking and fencing

My own garden doesn't include decking, but, according to the experts, it's one of the areas that takes the most obvious hit. "Exposure to UV rays from direct sunlight over time can inflict cosmetic damage, causing wood to lighten and discolour," explains Jimmy Englezos, resident DIY expert and senior brand manager at Ronseal.

"These rays can also strip away the natural oils in the wood, leading to cracking, which allows water to seep in and cause rot and decay," he adds.

The fix depends on what state your decking or fencing is already in. "The best way to protect exterior wood from UV damage is with a specialised protector like a decking restorer or fence protector," Jimmy explains.

If yours is already discoloured, it's not necessarily a lost cause. "A decking restorer can be used to refresh it back to its original state," Jimmy says, before reapplying an oil, stain or paint to protect it going forward.

Thankfully for me, paving and stone courtyards fare much better. Stone and concrete are far more UV-stable than timber, though even paving can lose some colour intensity after years of being exposed to direct sunlight.

5. Fabrics and upholstery

I'll admit I assumed the real damage was outside, until I looked properly at my armchair and realised the sun had been working on my interiors just as steadily.

This issue, it turns out, was entirely predictable. "The biggest risk to our sofa during a heatwave isn't actually the heat itself, it's prolonged exposure to direct sunlight," explains Sergiu Tulbur, head of product innovation and design at OPA Living.

"UV rays gradually break down the dyes used in upholstery, causing colours to fade or become uneven, particularly on the side of the sofa that faces the window." It's not just colour either. "Heat can also dry out natural materials such as leather, making them more prone to cracking over time, while repeated periods of high temperatures can affect the resilience of foam fillings, meaning cushions may not spring back quite as well."

Some fabrics fare worse than others. "Upholstery made from cotton, linen or velvet is generally more prone to fading because natural fibres absorb dyes differently to synthetic fabrics," Sergiu explains.

"Performance fabrics and many synthetic upholstery materials are designed to be more resistant to fading, but no sofa is completely protected if it's left in direct sunlight day after day."

The solution isn't always as simple as moving a sofa either. "Rotating seat and back cushions regularly will help prevent one area fading faster than another, while leather should be conditioned every few months to maintain its natural moisture," Sergiu advises.

For anything too large or heavy to reposition, he points to another option. "UV filtering solar window film is another effective option many homeowners don't consider. It helps reduce the amount of harmful UV entering the room without significantly reducing natural light, offering year-round protection for both your furniture and other home furnishings."

6. Original art and prints

My hallway prints and paintings also had every reason to fade. "UV radiation breaks down the pigments in your prints slowly, and heat speeds the whole thing up," says Julia Kindermann, print industry specialist at Custtom.

"Blues and yellows go first, so the image starts looking a bit 'off' colour-wise before it looks obviously faded. It hits canvas prints, photo prints, framed art, and, to be honest, anything hanging in a room that gets direct sun. South-facing rooms and conservatories are the worst, as they trap heat and basically cook whatever's on the walls."

I found the fix was simple. I now keep valuable pieces off direct-sun walls where I can, and the same UV window film protecting my furniture does the same for my artwork.

7. Flooring

It hadn't occurred to me to check the floor until I read what Ian Tomlinson, managing director of Chauncey's Timber Flooring, had to say about it.

"As much as we love sunlight streaming into our homes, it's inevitable that any natural materials in your home will change colour with prolonged contact with the sun's rays," he says. "The sun's ultraviolet light is generally the biggest culprit when it comes to colour changes in wood flooring."

Like most sun damage, it's slow enough to go unnoticed until something forces the comparison. "In most cases, you probably won't even notice the change in your floor's colour as it will happen so gradually, but it can be noticeable when you move a piece of furniture which has been blocking the sun for a long time." That's a familiar story by this point.

Not every floor reacts the same way, either. "Different wood species react differently to sun exposure. Some will lighten, some will darken, and each species reacts at different rates." If you're choosing flooring with this in mind, Ian's advice is to keep it simple. "I advise opting for a light hardwood species such as oak or ash. These species are less prone to significant or sudden colour change."

Uneven fading is the more common complaint though, the patch under a rug or sofa staying its original shade while the rest of the room moves on without it. Ian recommends, "balancing out the fading by rearranging furniture and floor coverings from time to time. This helps the floor age more evenly and reduces noticeable differences in colour."

Can sun damage ever be undone?

After everything I’d heard, this was the question I most wanted answered. The answer was mixed and proves that prevention really is everything when it comes to UV damage.

It depends entirely on the material, according to Joe Burton. "Paint that has faded or is chalking can be repainted, though the underlying surface might still be brittle. Severely cracked or rotted wood will need replacing."

Fabric and photographs are the least forgiving of all. "Faded leather or fabrics are extremely difficult to restore to their original colour, and replacement is often the only practical option once the colour has been significantly bleached," he says.

"Similarly, photographs cannot be repaired once they have faded. The key is prevention, as restoration is limited once the damage has set in."

FAQs

What can I do if I'm building or renovating this summer?

There's a less obvious risk worth knowing about if you're currently rendering, painting or finishing an exterior. Neil Reed, owner of Lime Render Southwest, argues the sun itself often isn't the real culprit.

"For many exterior building materials, sunlight itself isn't usually the problem once the product has fully cured," he says. "However, if it's exposed to intense heat or strong sunshine before it's had enough time to cure properly, it can dry out too quickly.

"That interrupts the curing process, meaning it may never develop the strength it was designed to have," he explains. "You won't always see the effects immediately, everything can look perfectly fine when the job is finished, but over time it may not perform as expected because it never fully hardened in the first place."

I'm not building or renovating myself, but for anyone who is, it's worth thinking about UV resistance at the design stage too, not just the timing of the work.

"Specifying materials with inherent UV resistance from the outset is the most effective strategy," says Joe Burton.

"This means choosing paints and cladding formulated with UV-resistant pigments and stabilisers." That thinking can extend to the design itself. "Shade provided through eaves, pergolas or strategic landscaping can also reduce direct sun exposure on the most vulnerable walls and windows, protecting both the external materials and the interior from UV-A penetration."

What can I do to stop my old glazing letting in UV light?

It turns out the glass in my ancient windows was doing far less to protect my interiors than I realised. "Older glazing can allow rooms to take the full force of the sun day after day, especially where you've got big panes of glass, patio doors, French doors, bi-folds, or bay windows," says Darren Coates.

"Natural light is great, but uncontrolled sunlight can be brutal on interiors," he confirms. Conservatories tend to come off worst, particularly older ones with a polycarbonate roof rather than a solid one, taking the sun's full force from above as well as through the walls.

Simon Browne, national training manager at Luxaflex UK, points to shading as the fix. "External shading solutions such as awnings and exterior screens intercept the sun's rays before they reach the glass, reducing both heat and UV exposure indoors," he says. Honeycomb blinds are one of the more effective indoor options, he adds, capable of reducing "UV rays by up to 99.9%."

By the time I'd spoken to everyone, I'd ordered UV film for my windows, moved that armchair for good, and I'm eyeing up a set of external blinds for the room that gets the worst of the afternoon sun.

My garden cushion, sadly, is beyond saving. But everything else in the house has a fighting chance now that I'm actually paying attention. For more advice on managing your home in a heatwave, find out what you can do to prevent overheating when designing one, and if you're struggling to keep cool right now, here's what's involved if you're thinking of installing air con.

Trends, however ill-advised they were the first time round, always seem to resurface. Whether or not you have been seduced by the highly glamorous lifestyles of the Rivals cast, with their swathes of aqua blue eyeshadow, rippling muscles and chest hair, you can't have failed to notice that elements of 1980s design has been creeping its way back into all kinds of areas of the present day – not least into the world of interior design trends.

You might, quite understandably, be feeling a little nervous of this 1980s interiors revival. After all, some things are most definitely best left in the past – carpet in the bathroom anyone? But fear not, this renaissance is all about bringing back some of the best elements of the era, reimagining them in a modern, far more refined, way.

We reached out to some top interior experts for their advice on how to work this look into your home, while avoiding it looking like flashy, gaudy or overdone.

Weave in bold 1980s colours – but do it with subtlety

Homes in the 1980s were dominated by several, some might say clashing, colour schemes. Eye-popping neons were big news, but so too were candy shop-inspired pastels. Primary 'power' colours were much-loved too, as were stark black and white schemes (Google the Deetz's dining room from Beetlejuice if you want proof.)

Cathryn Sanders, head of creative at Earthborn, explains how these paint trends are being used in 2026. "The 1980s is returning in a much softer and more refined way than many people remember. We're seeing a renewed appreciation for colour, individuality and interiors that feel expressive, which were all key characteristics of the decade.

"One of the biggest influences making a comeback is the use of richer, more confident colour palettes," continues Cathryn. "Soft peach tones, dusty pinks, terracotta shades, warm browns and deep blues are all finding their way back into contemporary interiors. The difference today is that they're often paired with natural materials which stops them from feeling overly nostalgic."

Use small details to give the 1980s a nostalgic nod

The key when embracing any kind of design revival, be that Georgian style or the 1980s, and particularly when referencing those that were not known for their subtlety, is to introduce elements of the era, as opposed to creating a carbon copy.

Debbie Leigh, design manager at ILIV, explains how to bring popular patterns from the era, such as abstract shapes, kitsch florals and geometrics, into the home. "Expressive design, rich jewel tones and graphic prints are having a moment right now, thanks to our renewed love of the 1980s. The key difference is that today's homeowners are using these elements more thoughtfully.

"For a contemporary take on the trend, we'd suggest introducing these 1980s-inspired accents through soft furnishings," continues Debbie. "Cushions, curtains and upholstery are a great way to experiment with bold patterns or vibrant colours without committing to a full room redesign. As for what to leave in the past? We'd be cautious of overly busy schemes where every surface competes for attention."

"1980s interiors are definitely gaining popularity, thanks to TV shows like Rivals and Stranger Things," picks up Lizzie Mosley, creative director at Hug Rug. "Its interiors are defined by palettes of bold neon tones, as well as softer pastels like mint green and baby blue, while patterns range from sleek geometrics to country florals. Rugs can easily be used to incorporate a touch of 1980s style without overwhelming the scheme."

Shop 1980s decorative flourishes

Get on board with colour drenching – it's nothing new

Ever heard of the saying 'there is nothing new under the sun'? It basically means that everything is cyclical and this is most certainly the case with interior design trends – colour drenching being an excellent case in point.

We might all think we're being terribly modern by dousing the same shade of paint over the entirety of a room, but the 1980s saw homeowners doing just this – although perhaps in a less refined way. After all, this was an era when clashing colours and a more-is-more approach was to be embraced.

"We've already seen a return to colour drenching, statement paint colours and a willingness to embrace decorative details," says Cathryn Sanders. "What people often remember about 1980s interiors is the excess, but what designers are taking from the era today is the confidence. It's less about recreating a period look and more about embracing colour and individual personalities."

Embrace statement furniture – but with less of the gloss

Shiny, lacquered furniture, surfaces and finishes were all highly desirable back in the 1980s when the more synthetic materials you could squeeze into your home, the better.

Laura Rich, interior designer at Furniturebox, explains that statement furniture is definitely back, but without the bling. "1980s interior design is like Marmite. We’re seeing elements creep their way back into our home decor but I’m doubtful we’ll see a full-blown revival. The era saw theatrical statement homes that were often filled to the brim with unapologetic maximalism – bright, clashing colours, geometric shapes, chintzy patterns, and glamour in excess.

"Curved, sculptural furniture is one of the easiest trends to embrace because it instantly adds character to a room without feeling overpowering," continues Laura. "Adding a focal point with a statement tub chair-inspired sofa or curved coffee table complemented with textured fabrics, wood and stone makes a home feel warm and inviting but with personality," continues Laura. "Embracing 1980s interiors isn’t about replicating them but rather drawing inspiration and borrowing elements."

Julia Bilotta, creative stylist at Sofology, agrees that a refined take on statement pieces is the way to go if you want your living room design to stand the test of time.

"Rivals has brought a renewed appreciation for the 1980s, especially the era’s confident use of sculptural seating and generous, low‑slung silhouettes. It was a decade that embraced form as much as comfort. To introduce the era into the home, look for sofas with softened geometric lines and modular configurations that allow you to build out a statement shape. Pairing these forms with textured upholstery or subtle contrast piping brings a contemporary refinement."

Shop statement 1980s-inspired furniture

Swap shiny orange wood finishes for pale matt

An abundance of orange, glossy wood finishes – everywhere – was seen as very sophisticated in the 1980s (a quick peek inside Freddie and Mousey's Rivals home should be all you need to convince you of this).

While wooden flooring and timber wall finishes are very much on-trend right now, the look has been totally reimagined, as Adam Robertson, MD of Urbane Living , explains. "When looking back at flooring trends from the 1980s, it is easy to see how dominant orange-toned woods became, often paired with mid-width planks and high-gloss finishes that can now feel quite heavy within a scheme. While they were of their time, those stronger undertones tended to dictate the rest of the interior palette."

"For anyone looking to reinterpret 1980s interiors in a more contemporary way, the key is to move away from the high gloss, heavily polished finishes that defined the era and instead focus on a more understated and natural approach to wood," picks up Ian Tomlinson, MD of Chaunceys Timber Flooring.

"For a more timeless look, we’re seeing a shift towards softer, more natural tones with a matt finish, which allows the character of the timber to come through without overpowering the space. Wider boards also help to create a calmer, more contemporary feel, as they reduce visual busyness and better showcase the grain."

Don't rule out wall-to-wall carpeting

While we're on the subject of types of flooring, wall-to-wall carpet has seen a major comeback of late – yet another 1980s trend making a reappearance.

Jodie Hatton, design manager at Brintons, explains why this is one trend to get back on board with. "Wall-to-wall carpeting was a symbol of true luxury in the 1980s, with homeowners opting for plush flooring that would introduce a sense of refined comfort and luxury in living rooms and bedrooms.

"In the 2020s, our homes have become sanctuaries, and with that we're seeing a return to homeowners embracing wall-to-wall carpet that creates a cosy and cocooning atmosphere.

"The colours and finishes of 1980s carpets are also making a comeback," continues Jodie. "Plush Berber carpeting and cut and loop finishes were favoured for their plush comfort and sophisticated appeal. Carpet was often chosen in light neutral tones like beige or a warm off-white that would form a versatile backdrop for the pastel colours and neon accessories also popular during the decade."

Layer – don't match – patterns

There was a very matchy-matchy approach taken to interiors during the 1980s – matching three-piece suites, matching furniture within bedroom design, matching curtains, lampshades, cushions and, deep breathes, curtain pelmets.

While many of the popular patterns from the 1980s have resurfaced – pretty florals, stripes and geometric designs, for example – these days they are being used in a more imaginative way.

"We're seeing a renewed appreciation for colour and pattern," explains Sophie Chapman associate and interior designer at The Vawdrey House. "Rather than using a single statement print, today's approach is about layering patterns, textures and colours to create interiors with personality and depth."

Dairine Nethercott, head of design at MOON, has some tips on the types of fabrics and textures to incorporate. "We’re seeing the return of traditional checks and tartans in the rich aristocratic shades of forest green, navy blue and oxblood, which provide depth and grandeur.

"Used in a wide range of bedroom ideas, these fabrics look great as skirting or allow for creative freedom on upholstered headboard ideas. Alongside modern colour blocking this gives the effect of the elegant country home without looking dated. To recreate the lived-in feel of 1980s interiors, layering together multiple textures – whether that’s velvet, mohair, wool or linen – is a good place to start."

Get reacquainted with cork flooring

As a child, my parents fitted all our bathroom with varnished cork flooring – and so did all of my friends' parents. Cork flooring was huge – and its back on the scene once again.

"Cork is making a welcome return," says Sophie Chapman. "Once considered a practical and affordable flooring option, it's now being recognised for its excellent sustainability credentials, acoustic properties and warmth underfoot."

The cork I remember was distinctly orange in colour, and a little shiny – how does Sophie say it has changed? "The difference today is in the finish – think natural, matt cork rather than the heavily varnished floors many of us remember from the 1980s."

Introduce elements of farmhouse-style into the kitchen

This is one trend many people will be really happy to hear is making a comeback – the farmhouse-style kitchen. That said, it has has definitely had a bit of a makeover.

Long gone are the overly-decorative, dark wood cabinet fronts, with their varnished finishes and visible knots, as are the wavy pelmets and matching wooden knobs. These days, the look is far more pared back.

Modern wooden kitchen ideas are a great place to start building the look – keep the design simple and then layer on homely details, such as gingham soft furnishings and a streamlined ceramic sink.

FAQs

Is the 1980s trend of carpet in the bathroom making a comeback too?

While the popularity of wall-to-wall carpet really peaked in the 1970s, it continued on into the 1980s and it was still common to fit carpet in the bathroom during this era – seen, at the time, as the ultimate in comfort and luxury. But carpet in the bathroom...really?

"Perhaps the biggest trend that should remain firmly in the past is carpeted bathrooms, whether on the floor or up the side of a bath which, believe it or not, I have seen," says Sophie Chapman. "While they may have felt luxurious at the time, practicality has thankfully prevailed."

If you like the idea of something soft underfoot in the bathroom, washable bathroom rugs or cork are both good alternatives.

While taking inspiration for your house design ideas from trends of the past is a great idea, it is important to ensure they are not passing fads.

If you are worried about investing in a look that will date fast, use smaller, more affordable, elements to get the look, such as decorative objects and soft furnishings.

So, you've invested in a smart doorbell to feel more secure, a robot vacuum to claw back a couple of hours on the weekend, and a smart thermostat because frankly, heating an empty house at full whack feels ridiculous. Well done – that all seems very sensible and futuristic of you.

But a small detail you may have overlooked is that every one of those devices could be silently collecting data about how you live: when you leave the house, when you come back, who visits, and what your daily routine looks like. That's not to say that anything sinister is going on, but it's simply how a lot of smart technology works.

The question worth asking isn't whether your smart home is watching you (it probably isn't, certainly not in the way the scarier corners of the internet would have you believe), but who has legitimate access to the data it generates. It's about what they're entitled to do with it, and whether you have any say in the matter. Spoiler: you have more control than you might think, but only if you know where to look.

What information is your smart home collecting?

It's tempting to think of smart devices as single-purpose tools: the best home security systems record visitors, smart thermostats control the heating, and your robot vacuum cleans the floor. But in practice, this tech collects considerably more information than the single action you think you're triggering.

Take your video doorbell. According to Jack Charman, private investigator at National Private Investigators, it isn't just storing clips. "It's logging motion events, timestamps, audio, device IDs and account links that tie everything back to a specific home."

Because it's rare to find a video doorbell without a subscription, you'll likely need to create an account to use it, and in doing so, you may be agreeing to share considerably more information than you realise.

Similarly, your smart thermostat can infer occupancy patterns from temperature adjustments and home or away modes. Your robot vacuum generates a detailed floor map of your property, and even smart plugs or bulbs can reveal which rooms are being used and when. "Individually these signals seem harmless," says Jack, "but combined they can form a surprisingly accurate behavioural timeline."

But it goes further than the devices themselves. Paul Bischoff, a consumer privacy advocate at Comparitech, notes that even relatively basic data can reveal more about you than you'd expect. "Using just an IP address and a timestamp, an observer could infer when you are home, when you go to work, how many people live in your house." Any device connected to your home Wi-Fi is capable of logging exactly that.

"The apps that control your devices are often the worst privacy offenders, though," adds Paul, "because they are on your phone, which probably holds a lot of your personal data." Depending on the permissions you've granted, a smart home app could be accessing your camera, microphone, stored files, contact lists and advertising identifiers on top of everything the device itself records.

Who can see your data and what are they allowed to do with it?

If you've ever clicked "I agree" on a smart home app without reading the small print, you're certainly not alone. But, under a legal basis called "legitimate interests" those terms and conditions often grant companies far more access to your data than you might expect. As Dray Agha, senior manager of security operations at Huntress, explains: "Legitimate interests is essentially a flexible legal justification that allows companies to process or share your data without your explicit consent, provided they can argue it is necessary for their business goals and doesn't severely infringe upon your fundamental privacy rights."

According to the ICO's guidance some examples of potential "legitimate interest" include:

• Improving their products or services : For example, your smart thermostat manufacturer may analyse how you adjust your heating schedule to inform future software updates
• Sharing data within a group of companies for internal administrative purposes: Amazon may pass your Ring doorbell usage data to its broader advertising division
• IT and network security monitoring: Your smart home platform may log device activity to detect unusual access patterns or potential account breaches
• Direct marketing based on your behaviour and preferences: Your energy app may use your consumption data to target you with offers for solar panels or EV chargers, though companies must also meet separate consent requirements under UK marketing rules

But it isn't a free pass. As Jack Charman explains: "The organisation has to show that the data use is necessary for a specific purpose, and then it has to balance its own interest against the impact on you as an individual. So if the impact on privacy is too high or unexpected, it shouldn't be allowed under this basis."

Legitimate interests also doesn't automatically cover everything a company might want to do with your data. "Under UK rules like PECR, many tracking technologies still require consent, even if a company tries to justify broader data use under legitimate interests," says Jack.

You have the right to object to processing under legitimate interests, and companies are required to be transparent about what they're doing with your data. But exercising those rights means knowing where to start.

How can you protect yourself and your home?

Thankfully, limiting what your smart home shares doesn't mean sacrificing the convenience that made installing it worthwhile. A few straightforward changes to how your devices are set up can significantly reduce the amount of behavioural data that gets stored and passed on.

Adjust what gets captured

If you're wondering whether home security cameras are safe, the short answer is yes, provided you're in control of what they capture and who can access it. Jack Charman recommends thinking carefully about where to put security cameras, adjusting angles and using privacy zones so you're not recording the street or neighbouring properties unnecessarily – something that also keeps you on the right side of home CCTV laws.

Turning down motion sensitivity reduces constant activity logging, and switching off audio recording removes one of the most sensitive data streams entirely. "These steps don't reduce core functionality, but they do cut down the amount of behavioural data that gets stored and shared over time," he says.

Review your app settings

Another top tip from the experts is to go into the settings of each device app and turn off anything that isn't essential to how you actually use it. For example, Dray Agha recommends opting out of "analytics" or "product improvement" data sharing, routinely deleting voice assistant command histories, and enabling auto-delete for activity data so old records don't accumulate indefinitely. It's also worth auditing any third-party connections you've enabled and revoking access for services you no longer use.

Isolate your devices on the network

Dray Agha also recommends moving all smart devices onto a dedicated guest Wi-Fi network. Doing so isolates them from your personal computers and smartphones, limiting how much data they can hoover up from the rest of your household.

Moving house? Don't forget to reset

If you're moving house, don't overlook the devices you're leaving behind. Jack Charman's advice is clear: fully reset every smart device and revoke cloud access before you hand over the keys. "You don't want old accounts carrying over into a new owner's home," and equally, you don't want your behavioural data going with it.

Shop smart home security

For more advice on keeping your home secure, see our guides to how much home security systems cost and the best ways to protect your home from burglars.

With temperatures expected to reach the high 30s this week, bin crews across the country will be making their collections earlier than usual to beat the heat. With that in mind, it's well worth double-checking your bin day and schedule.

Somerset Council, Cheltenham Borough Council, and South Kesteven District Council are just a few councils that have brought bin collection times forward, with many saying the changes will remain in place throughout the week.

Adjusting the schedule will help keep bin crews safe from the heat by allowing them to work during the cooler part of the day. It was only in May when bin lorries were breaking down because of high temperatures, so the new schedule should also help prevent heat-related delays and disruptions.

"Keeping our colleagues safe from dangerously hot working conditions is our absolute priority, so we have made the decision to alter shift patterns. Crews will collect in the cooler part of the day and pause work when it is no longer safe for our colleagues," says Hannah Deas, external communications manager at Bristol Waste Company.

How to keep bins fresh in hot weather

If you want to avoid the dreaded bin smells this heatwave (and the bin pests that soon follow), Sean Martin, Marketing Director at Fresh Start Waste, has shared his top tips below:

1. Keep a separate food caddy: "Food waste is the primary cause of unpleasant odours and attracts flies, which can lead to maggots developing in bins during periods of hot weather. Keeping food waste out of the general waste bin, rinsing food packaging where practical, and ensuring bin lids remain closed can make a significant difference."

If you don't have a food waste bin yet, you can read our helpful guide on ways to dispose of food scraps.

2. Maintain good bin hygiene: Sean recommends cleaning and disinfecting your bins regularly and keeping an eye on any spills and leaks. It also helps to keep your bins stored in a shaded area.

Fight bin odours with these shopping picks

Bin collection times will, of course, depend on where you live, so make sure to check your local council's website ahead of the heatwave.

As the weather gets warmer, it's worth reading our guide on how to how to keep a house cool in the summer, which includes all the tips and tricks you need to know. Or, you may want to read our review on the AirCraft LUME Quiet Air Circulator.

Entrepreneur Jamie Siminoff came up with the idea for Ring after he Googled for doorbells that could connect to a smartphone, found there were none, and decided to build his own.

After Amazon bought Ring for a billion dollars in 2018, Ring has become the most recognisable smart video doorbell brand in the world, with more than 50 products on sale today.

The Ring Battery Doorbell Pro sits near the top of the range: it’s the company’s second most advanced wireless doorbell, with a lot of attention paid to ensuring it’s extremely easy to install (many of these devices require an electrician), including a separate no-drill mount and a lot of hi-tech features. With an RRP of £179.99, (currently reduced to £75.99 as an early Prime Day Deal on Amazon) it’s not cheap, but the head-to-toe view from the crisp camera is about as good as these gizmos get.

Features of the Ring Battery Doorbell Pro

The Ring Battery Video Doorbell Pro offers top-end features such as enhanced HD video and Colour Night Vision, all delivered with typical Ring ease-of-use and customisability.

It’s not the cheapest out there, but if you’re looking for great performance, reliability and an addition to your home security, it’s a good choice, with a great head-to-toe camera offering a view so crystal clear you can see what the postman has delivered.

It delivers alerts to your phone instantly with two-way talk letting you get in touch with couriers before they turn on their heel and take your package back to the depot.

Everything works through Amazon’s simple, clear Ring app, and the barrier to use is very low here, so it’s no issue for less technical people. There’s an HD camera (1536p resolution, to be precise) and a new radar scanner which makes for more accurate alerts, including package-drop alerts (subscription only) even when the courier does not press the alarm bell.

You get real-time notifications every time someone either presses your doorbell or motion is detected. Live View puts you ‘into’ the doorbell in real time, and phone-style buttons let you use Two-Way talk to communicate with whoever’s at the door. There’s also easy-to-use privacy controls (for instance, you can set areas your camera does not monitor, so that you’re not spying on neighbours). There’s also Alexa integration so you can say, ‘Alexa, answer the front door’, or use Alexa to send recorded messages.

The camera is bright and precise, with new low-light settings offering colour images even in the evening, along with adjustments for glare and when the camera is used through glass. The app is no-nonsense and easy to navigate, and responding to an alert takes you directly to a live view where you can interact with couriers, postmen and family members.

Setting up the Ring Battery Doorbell Pro

This is where the Ring really comes into its own. I was replacing an old Nest doorbell that had been installed by an electrician, then a builder had accidentally severed the cable, leaving it useless, so I was very much in the market for something simpler to deal with, and requiring no wiring or expensive tradesmen to get going. This fits the bill.

There’s an online guide to setting up both the Ring itself, accessible via QR code, and the New Ring No-Drill Mount (which comes separately, priced £17.99 on Amazon). I'm no DIY expert (so much so that my wife has very strong feelings on this matter), but I managed to have the Ring doorbell installed and working within 30 minutes (and most of that was removing the previous model).

Pairing it with the app is simple and near-instant, and if you have other Amazon devices (I tested it with a doorbell ringer), it rapidly detects and connects to those, too. You require a separate Ring account, not just your Amazon one, but once that’s set up, it’s plain sailing.

How I tested the Ring Battery Doorbell Pro

I’ve used the Ring for several months in my London terraced home – it is a fairly busy area, so there are lots of people walking past, particularly in the morning and the evening. I also have a fair number of deliveries as a freelancer, so being able to act rapidly to prevent couriers disappearing is extremely useful.

I’ve tested it over the course of multiple months, recharging when necessary and noting the amount of time that has passed, and used it with visitors arriving at my house day and night (as well as keeping an eye on people who pass during the night).

I’ve also tested it both with and without the subscription, to see whether it’s something which really is optional, or if the device is next to useless without paying the monthly fee.

Is the subscription worth it?

The most basic Ring Solo Home subscription (covering one device and purchased from Ring) is £4.99 a month or £49.99 per year, which provides video recording (you can save, review and share from the app) and stored history (up to 180 days). If you have more than one device (such as multiple cameras) you’ll need the Multi subscription which is £7.99 a month. The Ring Battery Pro comes with a 30-day free trial if you’re a new Ring customer.

The subscription is worth it if you’re nervous about security, offering rewindable video of every door interaction through the night. But you can easily live without it, with the camera showing who’s been at your door via the notifications, just minus the capacity to really inspect the people.

The subscription-only ‘Package’ alerts (which detect posted packages even without a ring) are likewise a nice-to-have, rather than an essential.

How I've found using the Ring Battery Doorbell Pro

Positive things first: in audio and video terms, this is a fantastic product. Pictures are clear, the video feed doesn’t stutter, and even at night you can clearly see who’s at your door, in colour. Amazon’s vaunted ‘head to toe’ view is great: you can clearly see not just who’s there, but what they have put through your letterbox (you can’t read the words, but you can see if it’s a letter, package or HMRC brown envelope, for example).

Even with the most skittish couriers, it’s always offered me enough time to communicate that I’d prefer if they left the package in the recycle bin rather than vanishing with it: the speaker’s loud and clear and the app never ‘hangs’ at inopportune moments. If there’s ever a Wi-Fi issue, it reconnects quietly by itself.

One of the selling points of the subscription is getting Package Alerts, which look for packages arriving in a zone you set up, and keep track of deliveries. Quick Replies let you send a message (including in the voices of Ant and Dec, for some reason), but I found the canned responses less useful than the traditional approach of actually speaking to people.

The battery life is pretty decent – but has dropped a little over the eight months I’ve used it, to the point where it now requires charging roughly every three weeks (it comes with an older USB-B cable to charge, and takes around eight hours to do so each time).

I personally found the ‘motion detected’ alerts a little over the top, but I realise not everybody has as many people walking past their door as I do. It’s clever enough that I rarely get alerts for passing cars, for example, and nor does it pick up the children’s playground next to my house. You can curb this by muting motion alerts. When someone actually does press your doorbell, it also looks different, so you never miss a visitor.

For a device you have to take apart and recharge fairly regularly, one downside is that the casing is held in place by a single, tiny screw – inevitably, this went missing, and now the outer plastic casing falls off regularly every time my children slam the door (which is, if you know teenagers, every single time they use it).

Do I rate it? Yes, it's done exactly what it said it would and suits the needs of our home well.

As the first thing you see when you approach your home and walk through the front door, a porch should feel calm and organised, setting the tone for a home you can return to and relax in at the end of the day.

However, as it's usually the place where we chaotically dump shoes, coats and bags, you might not think the words porch and organised belong in the same sentence. Fortunately, there are plenty of clever solutions that can help keep this space neat, tidy and functional.

To find out how to get your porch in tip-top shape, keep reading. We spoke to professional organisers to discover the products and storage solutions they swear by for creating an immaculate porch where everything has its place.

1. Shoe storage

No matter how big or small your porch is, shoe storage should be at the top of your priority list, says Kelly Moore, founder of Cleaning With Meaning. If space allows, we recommend choosing a storage bench which doubles as a seat, or investing in a mounted holder for airing out wellies (like this boot rack from Amazon).

While closed storage has the benefit of looking tidier, Heather Tingle, founder of Untangled by Tingle, says cabinet doors can sometimes become a barrier to putting things away and create a bottleneck at entrances. With that in mind, you may want to consider open storage instead.

Store shoes in style with these shopping picks

2. A washable rug

No matter how often you ask people to take their shoes off before coming inside, there will always be a few who slip through the door in dusty shoes and track dirt across the carpet. That's why a washable rug and/or doormat is an absolute must.

"A washable indoor-outdoor runner rug is one of the best investments you can make," says Kelly Moore. "It catches dirt before it travels through the house and can be easily cleaned when needed."

Don't worry if your porch is awkwardly shaped – many rug companies, such as Ruggable, offer custom-made options to help you get the perfect size.

Washable rugs we love

3. A strong lighting design

There’s nothing worse than scrambling around trying to find your things (especially when you’re in a rush in the morning), so investing in good porch lighting is key. My porch features LED spotlights that offer the best visibility and brightness and sit flush to the wall.

For outside porches, you may want to install a wall lantern that doubles as a security feature, or place floor lights along steps to avoid any falls.

Lighting shopping picks

4. A mail organiser and bin

I don't know about you, but I have an ever-growing stack of junk mail and leaflets piling up in my porch that I always forget to throw away. As a solution, Heather Tingle suggests buying a small paper recycling bin to keep by your door – something I'm definitely going to look into!

If family members are in at different times, you may also want to install a shelf or delivery organiser for parcels and letters to ensure that important mail doesn't get misplaced.

Shop these mail organisers

5. Wall-mounted storage for coats and bags

"Wall-mounted hooks are another must-have," says Kelly Moore. "They free up floor space and make it easy for the whole family to develop good habits."

Whether it's a shelf lined with baskets of bags or a hooks for hanging coats, the best thing about wall-mounted storage is that it works well for the smallest of porches, as it doesn't take up too much room.

Shop wall-mounted storage

With a few clever systems in place, you won’t have to run around tidying up your porch every couple of days – the right storage and design will do the hard work for you.

For more organisation tips, read how to organise a shed and how to organise a utility room.

If you're renovating a compact room, colour, storage and lighting will probably demand your attention before tiles do. But the choice of tile, and specifically how it's laid, can do more for a room's proportions than almost any of those decisions.

The advice you'll most commonly encounter – use large tiles, keep it light, stick to neutrals – isn't wrong. But it barely scratches the surface of what tile choice can actually do. The variables that really determine how generous a space feels are pattern direction, grout density, and the relationship between floors and walls.

We asked two tile designers to go beyond the basics and reveal which tile patterns work hardest in a small space, which ones to avoid, and where the conventional wisdom breaks down.

It's all about the grout lines

"It comes down to grout lines more than anything else," says Damla Turgut, founder and creative director of Otto Tiles. "Large format tiles across walls and floors can help create the illusion of space because there are fewer grout lines breaking up the surface. This reduces visual clutter and allows the eye to move more continuously across the room, rather than constantly stopping and starting between individual tiles."

Maria D Arráez, director at Tile of Spain UK, agrees, adding: "Large-format tiles laid in an unfussy, continuous pattern create a sense of openness. They help visual flow and draw the eye through the space, rather than interrupting it."

The reverse is equally true. Very small format tiles have the opposite effect, and Damla cautions against coin-shaped mosaic tiles or small checkerboard designs in compact rooms.

"The combination of bold pattern repetition and excessive grout lines can make a room feel visually fragmented and overly busy," she warns. The exception being something like traditional zellige, where tiles sit together with minimal grout lines, giving you smaller scale and texture without the same visual noise.

How the direction you lay tiles affects the size of a room

"The direction of your tiles has a huge psychological impact," explains Damla Turgut. "Running a pattern towards a window naturally pulls the eye towards the light source, which can elongate a room and make it feel more open. Vertical layouts can exaggerate ceiling height, while horizontal lines can visually widen narrow spaces."

Linear formats do particularly heavy lifting here. Striped or stacked layouts, alongside elongated Kit Kat tiles, draw the eye upwards or outwards, depending on the effect you're after, while a traditional offset brick pattern laid horizontally can visually widen a room. Chevron and herringbone work similarly, the direction of the lay determining whether the room feels taller or wider.

Even the smallest decisions make a measurable difference. Laying rectangular tiles lengthways through a corridor, rather than across it, can completely shift its proportions.

"People often underestimate how much tile orientation affects spatial perception," Damla says, "but it's one of the most effective tools available when working with smaller rooms."

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Why using the same tones and tile on floors and walls makes a room look bigger

One of the most consistently effective techniques in a small room is eliminating the visual break between floor and wall. When different materials or colours meet at that junction, the eye registers the room's true edges. Remove that contrast, and the room reads as much larger than it is.

When choosing tiles for a small bathroom, "wrapping the same tile across floors and walls can blur boundaries and make the room feel much larger because the eye isn't constantly stopping and starting between surfaces," says Damla Turgut. And Maria D Arráez extends this to internal thresholds too. "Run floor tiles seamlessly into walk-in shower areas or onto walls," she advises, "as this helps blur the boundary and makes smaller rooms feel more expansive".

Can dark tiles make a room look bigger?

"Colour and pattern go hand in hand, so it's vital to consider both when choosing tiles," says Maria D Arráez. "Softer, more tonal palettes reflect the light better and help create a welcoming, airy feel, especially when paired with a complementary grout colour." But she is clear that bold colour is far from off the table.

"An earthy palette of rich greens, terracottas and deep blues can work beautifully in small rooms when used consistently. Cocooning a small space in a darker colour can actually make it feel bigger, as the enveloping effect feels intentional rather than overwhelming."

The key, she adds, is harmony: the tile finish, grout and surrounding materials need to work together rather than compete. Damla Turgut takes a similar view on finish, noting that deeper tones with reflective surfaces can create a genuine sense of depth and atmosphere in a low-ceilinged room, particularly when paired with good lighting. "Smaller spaces don't always need to feel minimal or white to feel expansive," she says – a useful reminder that pale and plain is a choice, not a rule.

The rooms where standard rules don't apply

Pair these plain and patterned tiles together

Every renovator eventually has a room that refuses to behave like the others. Whether it's a narrow hallway or a low-ceilinged bathroom, these are also the spaces where the most interesting decisions get made.

Damla Turgut's instinct is to lean into the character of the room rather than fight it. In a narrow hallway, for instance, she would embrace a strong directional tile pattern rather than try to disguise the proportions as, "it creates real impact rather than fighting against them."

And for rooms with decorative tiles on the floor, she makes the case for keeping the walls relatively calm. "A decorative motif can help ground the scheme and set the tone for the interior," she says. "If the walls and ceiling are colour-capped, or kept relatively neutral, it allows the eye to move more naturally around the space without interruption. That balance can make a smaller room feel cohesive and larger."

Of all the individual tips and techniques, Damla's overarching point is perhaps the most useful to take away.

"Scale, layout and grout all work together," she says. "It's rarely one single factor that changes how spacious a room feels." Tile pattern is a design tool, not just a decorative choice – and the better you understand each variable, the more effectively you can use them.

The principles covered here apply to any room in the home. Whether you're choosing bedroom floor tiles or living room tiles, the same thinking around pattern direction, grout density and scale will help any space feel larger and more considered.

A recent poll of 2,000 adults across the UK has revealed that nearly a quarter of us are oblivious to the electrical risks that could be inside our homes.

And, while it's recommended that every homeowner has an Electrical Installation Condition Report (EICR) every 10 years, nearly three-quarters of those surveyed didn't even know that it existed.

Add to this the fact that one in seven of us also ignore common electrical problems, the survey, commissioned by NICEIC, the UK’s leading certification and training body for the electrical contracting industry, presents a worrying picture about the potential state of the electrical systems in our homes.

Why do you need an EICR?

An EICR is essentially a check of all the electrical components in your home, and something that should be undertaken on a regular basis.

Paul Collins, technical director at NICEIC, explains. "An EICR is effectively an MOT for the electrical systems in your home, which with a growing reliance on this resource thanks to modern heating systems, heat pumps, EV chargers and more, is more important than ever before.

“In privately owned homes, it is recommended that an EICR is carried out at least every 10 years," says Paul, "whereas in rented properties it is a legal requirement to have one at least every five years."

The survey revealed that as well as 22% of respondents admitting they hadn't met the required guidelines in the last decade – if at all – 69% have no idea what an EICR is, and of the 48% who did know what it is, they were unaware it's recommended the check is carried out at least every 10 years.

Ignoring risks is also common practice among homeowners

As well as forgetting to get a thorough check of the electrical systems in our homes, the survey also found that residents are also taking greater risks when it comes to faults and repairs.

Other common electrical issues that are being left for prolonged periods by homeowners included damaged sockets, appliances which cut out – and even unusual or burning smells, all of which are potential signs of an issue with the wiring.

And, despite the fact it's always recommended to get a qualified electrician to check and fix any problems, the survey suggests 24% of us are willing to try and fix the issue ourselves. Something that is never advised, and could potentially lead to issues with your home insurance if you make the problems worse.

Homeowners are concerned but don't take action

Yet on the flip side, there is clearly recognition as to the need for checks and the right professionals with 49% agreeing that they would not be confident in identifying a dangerous electrical fault in their home, and 47% admitting they were concerned about their property’s electrical safety.

"Many consumers are familiar with the recommendation we replace our mattresses every 10 years or less, but perhaps don't think about electrical checks in the same way," says Paul Collins.

“These results prove there is clearly a knowledge gap when it comes to keeping up with electrical safety. It’s a concern that homeowners are putting off electrical safety checks and attempting to fix issues themselves," he continues, "as this can pose serious risks.

“Electrical installations naturally deteriorate over time, and the issues that develop are not always visible. Having an EICR carried out is a simple but vital step that can help detect problems early," says Paul, "before they become costly or potentially life-threatening."

Barriers to good electrical hygiene

Reasons for the lack of maintaining good electrical health in the home were varied, but included cost concerns (32%), with 23% stating they didn't consider it necessary and 12% saying they were unsure who to contact.

“The guidance is simple," says Paul Collins. "Prioritise your safety, your home and your investment by getting your installations checked by a registered electrician.”

There are currently over 40,000 NICEIC-registered electricians across the UK, all regularly assessed to ensure they deliver work in line with up-to-date electrical regulations. To find one near you, you can use the free NICEIC tool.

For many people, fireproofing a house is only something they think about when the need arises – such as when building an extension, converting a loft or garage, or making some home upgrades. Safety aside, building regulations also have much to say on the matter, meaning that if you want to ensure the work you are carrying out on your home complies, you will need to implement certain fire proofing measures.

It isn't just those building new structures or converting parts of their homes into habitable spaces that should pay attention to fireproofing, though – there is plenty homeowners of older properties can do to safeguard both themselves, and their houses.

In this guide, the experts take you through everything you need to know to ensure your home not only complies with all the relevant rules and regulations, but also that it is a safe place to live.

What do the building regulations say about fireproofing a home?

Part B of the building regulations relates to fire safety and details everything anyone making upgrades and changes to their home, as well as building from scratch, needs to know.

Advanced fire risk assessor and approved validator Liam Trott, from Fire Safety & Compliance, explains more. "Fireproofing homes, generally involves two areas with slightly different terms and meanings. In simplified terms, the first is fire resistant construction in areas such as walls, floors, ceilings and even cavities or voids.

"The second is fire classifications, which is about surface spread of flame. Think of construction as stopping the fire passing through the wall to another room or area, and fire classifications as stopping the fire burning on the surface of a wall, like wallpaper on a brick wall – the brick won't burn, but the paper will," he explains.

"The building regulations 2010 expect that these elements are considered as appropriate for each area, based essentially, on life safety risk. For example, what would be expected for a two-storey detached house, will be very different to a four-storey terraced house," continues Liam.

"A two-storey house likely relies on your ability to escape via a bedroom window, with minimal injury risk to the occupant, so fire resistance is less of a worry. However, for a four-storey house, escaping via a window on the top floor would be too dangerous and would likely result in a serious injury or even death from the fall, so the internal route must be suitable so those present can escape.

"This is where adding fire protection becomes essential," he warns. "Beyond escape, the regulations also expect that there is no undue risk to firefighters, or neighbouring properties.

"The building regulations have changed significantly over the years, and there is no requirement to bring an existing building up to a modern standard in line with the building regulations, unless the regulations are triggered due to a renovation which constituted a change of use – known as a 'material change' – or an alteration that may impact life safety, known as a 'material alteration'," adds Liam.

"If you are carrying out works on your home and are unsure if it constitutes a material change or material alteration, you should contact building control at your local authority."

Why might you need to think about fireproofing your house?

There are certain home improvements and alterations that trigger the requirement for fireproofing measures to be put into place. If you are carrying out any of the following projects, you will need to comply with Part B of the regs.

• An extension: "Any house extension is a material change and, as such, the building must comply with the building regulations 2010 for many aspects, not just fire safety. In terms of fire safety these are B1-B5 of the building regulations," says Liam Trott.
• Loft conversion: "The most common loft conversion fire regulation requirements are FD30 fire doors on escape routes, intumescent seals and smoke seals, escape windows at minimum sizes, fire-rated insulation and mains powered interlinked smoke alarms," explains Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements.
• Garage conversion: Garage conversion building regulations relating to fire state that if your garage is attached to the house, 30 minutes of fire separation will need to be put into place using fire-resistant walls, as well as a self-closing fire door. You will also need to install smoke alarms, linked to your existing system. Additionally, if the room is a bedroom, an escape window meeting minimum size requirements will be needed.

Even if you are not building an extension or creating a new habitable space within your home, there are lots of steps you can take to make your home more fire safe.

"There are so many things people can do in their own homes to improve life safety and help improve their chances of survival – the sky really is the limit. What tends to be the constraint is budget," says Liam Trott.

"Every home would be safer with a full sprinkler system, however not every homeowner can afford to install sprinklers. However, there are lots of other things people can do that are either completely free, or relatively inexpensive, improvements."

With that in mind, here are the top expert-approved ways to improve the fire safety of your home.

How to fireproof

1. Install fire doors

Never underestimate the power fire doors have in keeping a household safe in the event of a fire – in fact, even if they are not a requirement of the building regulations in your home, they are well worth considering.

"Fire doors are a critical life safety device which have saved countless lives all over the world – I would advise every homeowner to consider the benefit of going above the minimum expected and installing fire doors in their homes as a standard practice," says Liam Trott.

"From a building regulations perspective, there are many reasons why fire doors may be required. In general terms, where escaping through a window is no longer an option and there is only one way out, or where a considerable risk is present, such as a garage, fire resistant separation would be expected as a way to mitigate the additional risk to life," continues Liam. "This will usually involve walls, ceilings, floors and doors along with firestopping and potentially cavity protection too.

"A common scenario that catches a lot of homeowners out is loft conversions, where a new floor is being added to a building, at a height where window escape isn’t realistic anymore," adds Liam.

"The most common way this is resolved is by establishing what is known as a 'protected route' from the top floor to the front door. This would mean all walls, ceilings, floors and doors within that stair core from the loft to the front door are of fire resistant construction."

2. Fit smoke detectors

While those living in older houses might not have to meet the same building regulations criteria as those making material changes and amendments, or building a new house, homeowners should still have at least one smoke alarm on every storey of their home for safety purposes.

"If you do not have smoke detectors in your home, adding these will make a significant difference to your ability to escape a fire," explains Liam Trott. "Simple battery detectors can be purchased from most hardware stores.

"It is worth noting that your local fire and rescue service may install them for free if you meet their criteria, which for some services is households with children under 16, or homes with vulnerable persons, such as the elderly or people with disabilities," advises Liam. "Bear in mind that battery-only smoke detectors would likely not be sufficient if the building regulations apply, such as when self-building.

"Test your smoke alarms regularly – a simple button push once a month to make sure it works is enough in most homes," adds Liam. "Working smoke detectors provide you with the early warning when it counts the most."

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3. Keep escape routes clear

This is a simple step that really could make all the difference in the event of an outbreak of fire.

"Keep your escape routes clear and don’t store anything on your stairs, the landings, or corridors," says Liam Trott. "The less that is there to burn, the more chance you have of being able to use the stairs to get out.

"Additionally, keeping routes clear reduces the risk of falls. Think about how much your eyes sting and your throat stings when you get a bit of smoke from a campfire in your face. Now imagine that's your experience through an escape route – you will be disorientated, so make the route safe," he advises.

4. Close all doors before going to bed

Not everyone realises how much simply closing doors can help prevent the spread of fire.

"A closed door could save your life," states Liam Trott. "Generally doors, even internal doors that are not fire doors, will have some basic resistance to fire, even if it is only a few minutes. However, in a fire, where seconds make all the difference, that door being closed may be the only defence in making sure you can get out."

Liam goes on to point out the importance of having a firm escape plan in place too. "Have a clear plan, think about where your family are in your home and how you will get out if there was a fire – being prepared is such a benefit. Think about where your children sleep, where you sleep, how you will reach them, where you will go next and how you will get out."

5. Take a holistic approach to fire safety

Rather than thinking in terms of individual fixtures and fittings within your home that could pose a fire risk, according to Liam Trott, it makes more sense to take a whole-house approach.

"Fire risk is unavoidable; buildings are generally safe until people are in them, so thinking of risk as a binary concept per fitting or fixture isn’t practical," explains Liam. "Instead, we should consider the risks and adapt or mitigate where necessary. For example, open fires are only a risk if we are storing items next to them that can burn, overloading them, not cleaning the chimney, or not monitoring it while they're lit.

"Likewise, wall panelling might be a risk if there are significant quantities of it in your escape routes," he continues.

"Any device, system, installation, fitting or fixture, every item present could have some element of fire risk, however if installed correctly, in the right location, and looked after, the risk is managed," says Liam.

"When thinking about installing anything new in the home or bringing in a new device, ask yourself: Could this cause a fire, or could it fuel a fire? If the answer is yes, then as a minimum it probably shouldn’t be in your escape route," he advises.

"If the installation is a regulated device, such as a gas boiler, solar panels, or wood stove, then these must be installed by competent people and in line with the relevant regulations to keep you and your family safe."

6. Turn off appliances and devices when not in use

According to Devon and Somerset Fire and Rescue Service, faulty appliances are a leading cause of household fires, with tumble dryers and washing machines accounting for 60 fires a year in Devon and Somerset alone. For this reason, it pays to take this next tip seriously.

"Any device that isn’t essential (such as your fridge), should be turned off when going to bed," says Liam Trott. "Do not charge devices overnight or use tumble-dryers, washing machines, dishwashers and so on. The less electrical fault risk at night, the less likely a fire is to occur while you are asleep."

Not only will this tip help reduce the risk of a fire breaking out in your home, it could also help save you money on your household bills – people are often unaware of how much some vampire devices are costing them.

FAQs

Can timber windows and doors be fireproof?

Many people worry that fire doors will ruin the aesthetic of their home, but this is definitely not the case these days – there is now a wide range of stylish options on offer. You need not rule out timber windows and doors either, providing you choose wisely.

Joe Buckley, an expert timber joiner and the founder and director of Heritage Joinery Solutions, explains the importance of choosing fire-safe timber windows and doors with care. "With timber windows and doors, it’s not about making the material itself ‘fireproof’, it’s about how the whole unit performs.

"A fire-safe timber window or door relies on the full system – frame, glazing, seals and installation – working together, not just the surface," explains Joe. "You can improve performance with fire-retardant coatings, paints or varnishes, which help slow the spread of fire, but these need to be applied correctly and maintained over time to remain effective.

"What catches people out is thinking this can be added later," adds Joe. "Fire performance is built into the design, including the glazing, seals and how everything is fitted, and even small changes can affect how the door or window performs under heat."

If you are converting your loft space, there are all kinds of elements to factor in, such as your loft conversion stairs, soundproofing and storage – but one of the most important things to consider is loft conversion fire doors. The choice comes down to more than just aesthetics, so make sure you understand the requirements involved.

Unless you've been living under a rock, you've probably come across (or at least heard about) the 80/20 rule – a decluttering method that makes it simple to decide what stays and what goes.

As a self-proclaimed shopaholic, my home is quickly becoming overwhelmed by the amount of stuff I own compared to the storage space available, so I was keen to learn more about the method and how I could give it a go (especially after discovering decluttering can reduce damp).

To find out what I learned and the best way to implement it in your next clean-out session, keep reading – I spoke with two decluttering experts for their insights.

What is the 80/20 rule?

The 80/20 rule – also known as the Pareto Principle – is the observation that we use 20% of our belongings 80% of the time.

"Think about your wardrobe. I'd bet good money you're reaching for the same handful of outfits week in, week out, while the rest just hangs there," says Kelly Moore, founder of Cleaning with Meaning. "The 80/20 rule asks you to be honest about situations like that. Once you accept it, letting go of the other 80% becomes a lot less daunting, and a lot more liberating."

Kelly explains that while the rule works fantastically for items such as kitchenware, clothing, books, and toiletries, it can get tricky with sentimental belongings, and she recommends giving yourself time to think those decisions over. It also wouldn’t work for seasonal decorations (we have a Christmas decluttering guide for this), work uniform, or important legal paperwork.

"The rule is a guide, not gospel. Use it to prompt honest thinking; not to make you feel bad about what you own," she says.

How do you identify the 20%?

The 80/20 rule is all well and good in theory, but how do you identify the 20% in practice? Here are a few methods that Kelly Moore uses with her clients:

1. The reverse hanger trick: "Hang clothes with hooks facing outward. After six months, anything still facing that way hasn't been worn."

2. The box test: "Pack up items you're unsure about and live without them for a month. If you haven't gone looking, you don't need them."

3. Three questions: "Ask yourself “Do I use it regularly? Do I love it? Would I buy it again today?” If your answers are three nos, they’re gone."

Shopping picks to get you organised

How do I prevent clutter from creeping back in?

If you've ever done a big clear-out, you'll know how easily and sneakily clutter can creep back into your home. So, how do you prevent this?

Both Kelly Moore and Becky Purchas, founder of White Space, agree that the “one in, one out” method is the best solution. By getting rid of one thing before buying anything new, you become more intentional with your shopping habits.

"Ask yourself 'where will this live, and will I still want it in a year?' A quick quarterly walk-around asking whether things still deserve their space works wonders too. Clutter doesn't happen overnight, and neither does preventing it," says Kelly.

"The unexpected benefit of this 80/20 rule is the mindset shift that comes from realising how little we really need, which can change what we chose to bring into the home," concludes Becky Purchas.

For more organisation tips and tricks, read our guide on how to use the William Morris decluttering method or browse these clever kitchen storage ideas.

One of the strongest trends we've seen this year has been the growth of wellness-related features in our homes, with home saunas topping the list of items many of us are considering.

From their appearance on the list of must-have bathroom trends, through to seeing them pop up outside too, having a sauna is no longer an activity restricted to the gym, or a stay in a luxury hotel.

But, is including one in your self-build, renovation or extension as easy as it seems? There's plenty of standalone sauna cabins for sale when you search online, so we've spoken to experts to find out what's really involved in installing one in your home.

What are the main electrical, plumbing and ventilation requirements?

The level of work involved in an indoor sauna installation comes down to whether you are building a home, or trying to adapt an existing one. Older home renovations may encounter a few more difficulties, but nothing is impossible say our experts – once you know what to take into account, and make sure you plan in advance.

"The key considerations are electrics, plumbing and ventilation, and these should never be an afterthought," says Jo Wilkinson, design lead at West One Bathrooms. "A traditional sauna requires a dedicated electrical supply, typically a high-voltage circuit, so you'll need a qualified electrician involved from the outset.

"Sauna heaters draw much more power than standard household appliances," expands Jake Newport, CEO at Finnmark Sauna, which is why they need to be installed by a qualified electrician.

“Ventilation is also important," he adds, "because you need airflow through the sauna to keep the heat comfortable and allow the room to dry properly between sessions. A well-designed sauna should feel fresh and breathable rather than stuffy.

“Plumbing usually isn’t necessary for the sauna itself," continues Jake, "because it’s a dry-heat environment. The same as an outdoor sauna, in a Finnish-style sauna, you can still create löyly, the burst of steam, heat and atmosphere created by pouring water from a bucket over the hot stones, but that doesn’t require plumbed-in water."

However, if you are going for the full wellness experience and including a steam room or shower too, then you do need to add some extra work to the list.

"Steam generators, used in steam showers, require both a water supply and drainage connection, as well as a power supply," advises Jo. "Good bathroom ventilation is equally critical, particularly for steam, as moisture needs to be managed carefully to protect the structure of the room and prevent damp.

"Plumbing, waterproofing, electrics and installation quality should never be compromised when installing a sauna," emphasises Jo. "These are difficult and costly to change later. Always work with a specialist who understands the full picture from day one."

Do saunas always need to go in or near a bathroom?

Although it's instinctive to think of putting a sauna in, or next to a spa-style bathroom, and can certainly result in a stunning design if you have the space to do so, it's not an integral requirement advise the experts. Which may help if you're trying to figure out how to squeeze one into a smaller property

"Bathrooms are a common location because the ventilation and bathroom flooring are already well-suited to heat and moisture, but indoor saunas can work in lots of different parts of the home," confirms Erin Hickman, a sauna designer at Finnmark Sauna.

“We’re increasingly seeing people install saunas in spare rooms, home gyms, garages and dedicated wellness spaces. The main thing is making sure the room has suitable ventilation, enough space around the sauna and the correct electrical setup,” she notes.

"The placement of saunas in the home is where things have become really exciting in recent years," adds Jo Wilkinson. "Technology has come such a long way that what used to be only for the very wealthy is now far more accessible. Saunas are now available in flat-pack pods that can be fitted together on-site in garden rooms, basements, bathrooms and loft conversions.

"I've recently worked on a project where a client had a sauna and steam room fitted in their loft. It's a terraced home in Wandsworth – very much a real home, not a grand country house," explains Jo. "The key requirement isn't proximity to a bathroom, it's access to the right services. Once those are in place, you have far more flexibility with location than most people realise."

What is the minimum space you need for a home sauna?

While there are no set rules as to the size you need for a sauna inside your home, you will of course be primarily limited by the space you have available, and whether your budget stretches to a bespoke design. Pre-fabricated options will come in standard sizes that are based on the number of people using the sauna at any given time.

“You can create a very good sauna experience in a surprisingly compact space," says Erin Hickman. "Some indoor saunas are designed for one or two people and fit comfortably within a small space, but the minimum size really depends on how someone wants to use the sauna.

"If it’s for occasional solo use, you can work with a relatively small layout. If people want to lie down fully or use the sauna socially, you naturally need more space.”

For extras such as steam showers, then you may not need any more space at all, notes Jo Wilkinson. "For a steam shower, you're essentially working within an existing shower enclosure, so space requirements are similar to a well-sized shower room, though the enclosure does need to be fully sealed, with minimal gaps to trap the steam effectively.

"A built-in seat or bench is ideal where space allows," suggests Jo. "And, as with any bathroom or wellness space, it's not just about the sauna itself – you need to consider the activity space around it. Too small and it becomes impractical, no matter how well it's designed."

How much do I need to budget for an indoor sauna?

If you're curious as to whether a sauna is in line with the budget you've set aside for your bathroom costs, then at Finnmark Saunas, for a traditional wood-fired sauna prices can start from around £3,300 says Jake Newport. Jo Wilkinson also tells us how a steam shower could also add a similar amount to your spend.

Of course, there are other alternatives such as infra-red cabins, and pre-fabricated pods, but the final cost will really be down to choosing a product that is well-made, properly installed and will last.

"For a more fully specified steam room or standalone sauna, costs can range considerably depending on the level of finish, the materials chosen and the complexity of the installation," says Jo.

"As a general steer, installation and labour is often the largest part of any bathroom project, and a wellness addition is no different," she continues. "As with any significant project, early planning is essential – installation, structural work and specialist finishes can significantly influence the final investment."

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What maintenance and upkeep is involved for an indoor sauna?

To get the best out of your sauna, and a long-life span, then it's important to make sure you keep on top of the upkeep – particularly as wood needs some extra care and attention with frequent exposure to heat and water. That said, it's nothing that is overly taxing or time-consuming.

“Indoor saunas are generally very low maintenance, especially when they’re used and ventilated properly," says Jake Newport.

“Inside the sauna, the upkeep is fairly minimal. It’s mostly just making sure the space dries out properly after use, giving the benches a quick wipe down now and then, and avoiding harsh chemical cleaners on the timber.

"But," he notes, "ventilation becomes even more important with indoor saunas because the heat and moisture have less space to escape naturally than they do outdoors.”

"Maintenance is fairly straightforward as long as you keep on top of it," agrees Jo Wilkinson. "The most important thing is hygiene as poor hygiene can allow bacteria to grow.

"Regular cleaning of surfaces, benches and drainage is essential. For steam showers, the generator will need periodic descaling depending on your water hardness, and seals should be checked annually to ensure the enclosure remains properly watertight.

"For saunas, the timber interior benefits from occasional treatment to keep it in good condition. Beyond that, it's about standard checks on the electrical components and any plumbing connections – the same principle applies here as anywhere else in the bathroom: invest in quality installation at the outset, and ongoing maintenance is much more manageable."

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FAQs

What indoor sauna designs are popular?

“Indoors, there’s strong demand for cleaner, more minimal designs with natural timber, softer lighting and a more understated feel that works naturally within the home," says Erin Hickman

"Travertine, warm-veined marble, rustic natural wood, limestone and terracotta are all popular in bathrooms," adds Jo Wilkinson, and they suit the aesthetic of a sauna well. "We're moving away from the cooler, more clinical look that dominated for years. In terms of bathroom colours, warm neutrals and earthy tones are leading the way – khaki green, rich browns and olive greens. It feels far more considered and lived-in, like a space you genuinely want to spend time in rather than a showpiece."

Do I need building regulations for an indoor sauna?

“Building regulations can vary depending on the type of sauna and how it’s being installed," advises Jake Newport. "So one of the most important things is working with someone who has experience installing saunas specifically, rather than treating it like a standard home DIY project.

“Installing a sauna involves considerations around ventilation, electrical installation and making sure the space can properly handle heat and moisture over time. A good installer should be able to guide people through those requirements early on and make sure everything is set up safely and properly from the start.”

For more inspiration on where to place a sauna, if you have space to extend below your home, you could consider converting a basement. Or, if your garage is under-utilised and begging for a makeover, find out what's involved in a garage conversion that could become home to a gym and wellness suite.

If you've noticed holes in your clothes or silky webbing in the fabric seams, you've likely got a moth infestation on your hands. But before you start to panic and throw away your entire wardrobe, you should know that it's very common and perfectly treatable.

Just like carpet moths, clothes moth larvae are attracted to natural fibres such as wool, cashmere, silk, leather and felt, and feed on the keratin inside them. That's why it's crucial to have proper garment storage.

To find out the fastest way to get rid of them and what causes them to enter your home in the first place, we spoke to two pest control experts below:

How do I get rid of moths at home?

1. Identify the moth type

Before you do anything, Tony King, owner of The Pied Piper, says it's important to identify which type of moth you're dealing with. While pantry moths are found in – you guessed it – kitchen cupboards and food storage areas, clothing moths are typically found in bedrooms, wardrobes and drawers.

2. Check your home for infested items

Now that you know the culprit, you'll need to thoroughly inspect your home for infested items. Tony says this is the most important step because "most of the damage is caused by moth larvae." Remove these items, then use a vacuum to clean all impacted areas.

3. Treat the infestation

"If you’re dealing with just a single garment, there are two reliable home treatments. Seal it in a plastic bag and freeze it for at least 72 hours, which kills both eggs and larvae; or, wash it at a high temperature if the fabric allows," adds James Rhoades, founder of ThermoPest.

If multiple items have been affected, James recommends that professional heat treatment may be necessary. This can kill moths at every stage of their life cycle, often in just a single visit.

While insecticides can help kill moths they come into direct contact with, it's not going to fix the underlying problem: the eggs and hidden larvae.

What causes moths to appear at home?

"Clothes moths are drawn to natural fibres, like wool, cashmere, silk, leather, felt and the like, because their larvae feed on keratin, which is a protein found in animal-based material," says James Rhoades. "They tend to settle in dark, warm, undisturbed spaces, because they’re safer, so you’ll find them in the back of wardrobes, under furniture, in lofts, and along the edges of carpets."

So, how do they get inside our homes in the first place? Whether they fly in through an open window or are transferred through second-hand clothes and furniture (similarly to bed bugs), there are many ways they can get inside.

"People don't realise they're sometimes bringing in more than just a jumper. With more people shopping second-hand, they’re unintentionally spreading the eggs," says James.

What are the signs of moths at home?

Think you have a moth infestation on your hands? Here are the signs to look out for, according to James Rhoades.

• Irregular holes or thinning patches in items with natural fibre
• Silky webbing or small tubular cases within fabric folds
• Tiny cream-coloured, worm-like larvae (this can be up to 1cm long)
• Sand-like frass collecting in seams, folds, or at the bottom of wardrobes

Top tip: When checking your home, focus on areas and items that haven't been used or disturbed for a while.

"In early-stage infestations, we usually find activity concentrated around one garment or the immediate area where it was stored. Early infestations are often very localised, which is why acting quickly is so important. If the item remains stored with other clothing, moths can spread throughout wardrobes, or even entire homes," James explains.

How do I prevent moths at home?

Once you've tackled your current infestation, you'll want to ensure they never return again. To help them get the memo that they're not welcome, James Rhoades recommends the following tips:

• Air your wardrobes regularly
• Shake out clothes you don't wear frequently
• Vacuum along the edges and undersides of carpets, the bottoms of wardrobes, and skirting boards (and dispose of vacuum bags in a sealed plastic bag immediately afterwards)
• Seal wool, cashmere, and silk items in airtight containers or compression bags
• Ensure your clothes are clean before storing them
• Check second-hand clothing and textiles before storing them. Wash or freeze them if you're uncertain
• Lavender and cedar can help, but regular cleaning and proper storage are the gold standard

Shopping picks to keep the moths out

While finding moths in your home can be unsettling, it is possible to get rid of them quickly, as long as you follow the right steps and act as soon as possible.

For more expert-backed pest advice, read our guide on how to get rid of a fruit fly infestation and how to deter wasps.

It is no secret that moving house is one of the most stressful live events there is – in fact, it falls into the top five. If you have ever done it, it is unlikely that you'll need any proof of this. That said, there are certain things that can make both selling and buying a house far less fraught.

"Selling your home is much easier if you have the right paperwork ready before a buyer is found," explains Paula Higgins, founder and CEO of HomeOwners Alliance. "Missing documents can worry buyers and even lead to renegotiations."

If you are planning on putting your own home on the market in the not-too-distant future, take a look at our handy checklist of all the documents you'll need to help things run smoothly – helping you have one less thing to think about during this exciting, yet potentially nerve-wracking, time.

1. Title deeds

First up, title deeds – not just one of the best ways to find out when your house was built but also the documents that prove to everyone that you own the property you are selling.

"Most homes are now registered with HM Land Registry, so your solicitor can usually download official copies," explains Paula Higgins. "If your property is unregistered, the process can be more complicated, so speak to a conveyancing solicitor early on."

"In a well-prepared sale, your chosen estate agent should have already reviewed the proof of ownership (Land Registry documents)," adds Liam Gretton, founder of Liam Gretton Estate Agents.

2. Energy performance certificate

This is one document you don't want to be without – it really can make or break the deal.

"In England and Wales, the absolute bare minimum requirement before marketing a property is an Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) – that’s it," says Liam Gretton.

"You need an Energy Performance Certificate before your home is marketed, unless you already have a valid one," picks up Paula Higgins. "EPCs last for 10 years and the government keeps a public register of all EPCs. Keep paperwork for energy improvements such as insulation, new windows, heating upgrades and solar panels, as this evidence can help support your property’s rating. This is becoming increasingly important as your property must meet minimum regulations in order to rent it out."

"Your solicitor may source this, but you might need to commission a new EPC if there wasn’t one previously or it is out of date," adds Adam Price, CEO at Select Property.

3. Building regulations certificates

Part of the role of the building regulations is to ensure that any building work to your home has been carried out safely – and, understandably, your potential buyers will want proof of this.

"This is one of the most important areas for renovators," points out Paula Higgins. "If you have carried out building work, your buyer’s solicitor will want evidence that the work complied with building regulations.

"This may include completion certificates for extensions, loft conversions, garage conversions, structural alterations, electrical work, window replacements or heating installations," continues Paula. "Do not assume your builder, architect or installer will keep copies forever. When you complete any project, ask for the relevant building control sign-off and keep it somewhere safe. Missing certificates may mean you need to arrange retrospective approval or indemnity insurance when the time comes to sell."

4. Planning permission consent

Whether you have self-built, added an extension or even carried out renovation work, if planning permission was required, you should be able to prove to your buyers that you obtained it.

"If your project needed planning permission, listed building consent or conservation area consent, keep copies of the approvals and any completion documents," advises Paula Higgins.

Liam Gretton goes on to explain how having documents like this available can help a sale in other ways too. "I’ve seen it countless times where a seller agrees to a strong offer, then weeks later, they’re being chipped down because something can’t be evidenced. When you remove uncertainty, you do three powerful things for your sale – you build trust with buyers, you protect your price, and you keep momentum.

"A great sale isn’t about finding a buyer – it’s about creating a position where multiple buyers feel confident enough to compete," he adds.

5. Electrical certificates

This does fall under the building regs certificates umbrella, but it is useful to note that if you have had any electrical work carried out to your home, you may need certificates to show work was carried out safely.

"Electrical work carried out since January 2005 may need a Part P Building Regulations certificate," explains Paula Higgins. "This is particularly relevant if you have rewired, extended circuits, added a new consumer unit or carried out electrical work as part of an extension or conversion."

"There is no legal requirement for sellers to provide gas safety certificates when selling, however, I can guarantee that the surveyor and conveyancing solicitor will ask for copies," adds Liam Gretton.

6. FENSA certificates

Window replacement is a common home improvement, carried out either to upgrade the energy efficiency of a house or to improve its appearance. Either way, proof that the work was carried out in accordance with the regs is important.

"If you have replaced windows or external doors, you should have a FENSA certificate or CERTASS certificate showing the installation complied with building regulations," explains Paula Higgins. "Aim to keep this with your other house documents."

If you are wondering what the difference between a FENSA and CERTASS certificate is, FENSA tends to focus only on windows and doors, while CERTASS covers a wider range of home improvements – you only need one or the other, not both.

7. Copy of the lease

If you live in leasehold property, this one is essential.

"If you’re selling a leasehold property, you’ll need a copy of the lease and details of ground rent, service charges, buildings insurance, major works and managing agent information," explains Paula Higgins.

"Leasehold packs can take time to obtain, so request these early," adds Paula. "You can get a copy of your lease at Land Registry and you can look up your lease length with the Leasehold Advisory Services' handy free lease checker tool."

8. Fixtures and fittings form

Your buyers are going to want to know exactly what they can expect to find on moving day – even if they are buying a house to renovate – and this is where you fixtures and fittings form comes in.

"Your solicitor will ask you to complete forms setting out what is included in the sale," explains Adam Price. "Carpets, curtains, light fittings and other fixtures and fittings should be clearly listed, because those details form part of the contract with the buyer.

"The devil is in the detail, as the saying goes, and that is very true when it comes to what you will need to supply when selling your home in the UK," adds Adam. "The documents you will be required to provide cover who you are, what the property is, what’s been done to it, and what is included with it."

9. Property information form

And, finally, you will also need to complete a form that gives your buyers all the details they need to know about the property.

"You’ll also complete a property information form (TA6) covering boundaries, disputes, building work, guarantees, insurance, utilities, flooding, rights of way and other important details," explains Paula Higgins. "Be honest and upfront. Trying to hide problems can lead to delays or legal issues later."

Paula has some additional advice that all homeowners, particularly those renovating a house, should really take note of if they want to make life easier when they do come to sell. "Every time you improve your home, keep the paperwork. Create a digital and paper file for planning approvals, building regulations certificates, completion certificates, warranties, and guarantees.

"Our top tip is to also keep a record of the paint colours you used – you will thank yourself later if you need to touch up," she adds. "It may feel like admin at the time, but when you come to sell, good records can make your home easier to market, reassure buyers and help your sale progress more smoothly."

FAQs

What are the implications of not having the documents you need?

If you're missing some of the documents, or wondering why you need so many, it's useful to understand why having all these documents ready to go is so important – a quick heads up, it could add value to your house.

Liam Gretton, explains. "When you’re selling your home, you’re not just selling bricks and mortar, you’re selling a lifestyle and, most importantly, certainty. One of the biggest misconceptions I see when people are marketing a home for sale is around what you legally need versus what you should have.

"It’s rarely the property that causes the problems after a sale has been agreed," continues Liam. "It’s everything that comes to light once a buyer commits. Missing paperwork isn't always a show stopper, but it can introduce doubt, and doubt is where buyers start renegotiating or having second thoughts."

Adam Price, goes on to clarify how the absence of some paperwork can negatively affect a sale. "If documents are missing it can delay a sale while your solicitor tries to trace them. If they can’t be found the buyer may ask for indemnity insurance, retrospective regularisation, or even a renegotiation on price."

Can I obtain missing documents?

If you can't find some of the documents you need, or never got sign-off on certain upgrades at the time they were done, don't panic.

"Missing paperwork often happens because work was done before records were digital or because formal sign-off wasn’t obtained," points out Adam Price. "Missing documents don’t always stop a sale, but they can delay the process and cost money to resolve."

"If documents are missing, there are still solutions such as retrieving copies from local authorities, applying for retrospective planning approval where needed, or even using indemnity insurance to keep things moving," reassures Liam Gretton. "Before a property even hits the market, we sit down with our clients and go through everything, not as a checklist, but as a strategy for a smooth sale."

If you are thinking of selling your house, you need to make yourself aware not just of the costs involved at this end of the process but also of the hidden costs of buying a house – that way you go into the process knowing exactly what to expect.

A rogue trader has been sentenced after falsifying asbestos test reports to trick homeowners into paying for expensive and unnecessary removal work.

The case came to light after Trading Standards officers discovered the results of accredited laboratory tests had been altered before being shown to customers.

The investigation has raised concerns about how easily asbestos reports can be manipulated before reaching homeowners, leaving them thousands of pounds out of pocket.

What the investigation found

The case involved Andrew Curtis York, who traded as ACFL Asbestos Ltd and carried out asbestos testing and removal work for domestic customers.

The investigation was led by Stockton-on-Tees Borough Council’s Trading Standards team after concerns were raised about inconsistencies in asbestos reports being provided to homeowners.

Officers discovered that samples sent to a UKAS-accredited laboratory showed no asbestos present, but the paperwork given to customers had been changed to indicate the opposite. This meant homeowners were being told their properties were dangerous and required urgent removal work when that was not the case.

Council investigators said York used these altered reports to justify charging for unnecessary work, including one case where a customer was quoted an additional £9,500 for removal that was not needed because no asbestos had been detected.

What the court heard and the fraud revealed

Teesside Crown Court heard that between December 2023 and February 2024, York misled three customers into paying a total of £14,235 for asbestos removal that was not required. The court found he had manipulated official laboratory results to support the false claims.

According to Stockton Council, York altered test certificates from a United Kingdom Accreditation Service (UKAS) certified lab “to indicate to his customers that there was asbestos present when the reports had stated there was none.”

The council said the victims also faced additional costs for building work such as boarding and plastering, which would not have been necessary if the correct results had been provided.

York pleaded guilty to four fraud charges and received a 16-month prison sentence, suspended for two years. He was also ordered to repay the money taken from customers, along with court costs.

Sentencing, council warning, and wider concerns

Speaking after sentencing, Stockton councillor Norma Stephenson described the conduct as “beyond belief,” saying the trader had deliberately altered legitimate test results to “line his own pockets.”

She added that Trading Standards officers had acted quickly to identify victims and prevent further harm, stating that the investigation ensured York was “brought to account.”

The council also issued a wider warning to homeowners, urging people to get multiple quotes and avoid paying large sums upfront for home improvement or removal work.

Officials said the case highlights how important it is for asbestos testing to remain independent and properly verified, as falsified reports can lead to unnecessary fear, disruption, and financial loss.

So you've found the property of your dreams. The light is perfect, the village is lovely, and you've already decided which room is going to be your home office. But then the survey lands in your inbox and suddenly you're reading words like "significant cracking" and "evidence of long-term water ingress". Suddenly that dream home feels like it's sinking (and not just metaphorically).

Most survey findings aren't the end of the world. Surveyors are trained to flag everything, and a long report doesn't automatically mean a bad property. But some findings are genuine deal-breakers. It doesn't necessarily mean the problems can't be fixed, but fixing them could cost you a fortune, make the property unmortgageable in the process.

Below, we take a look at the home survey findings that should give you pause, and in some cases, make you walk away entirely.

Most survey findings aren't deal-breakers

It's important to remember that it's a surveyors job to find problems. Every damp patch and suspect piece of pointing will get logged and that's precisely what you're paying for. So when your report arrives running to thirty pages, try not to interpret length as severity.

The distinction that matters, and that most buyers miss when they're speed-reading in a panic, is between problems that are expensive and problems that are dangerous. Expensive issues you can always budget for, negotiate on, or walk into with open eyes. But dangerous, or structurally compromised, is a different conversation entirely.

Jessica Risorto, director at Redbrik Estate Agents, puts it well: "Surveys are notoriously hard to read and often sound far scarier than reality. If you have the budget and you've found the worst house in the best location, don't let a survey put you off automatically, because almost anything can be rebuilt or renovated."

A thatched roof that needs repairs is a frustrating cost, but it's a knowable one. You can get quotes, factor it into your offer, and move on. The same goes for outdated wiring, tired kitchens, or damp caused by a blocked gutter rather than a failing structure.

Where it gets serious is when the survey findings point to problems that go beyond the surface. The issues that affect the bones of the building, or that will send your insurer running for the hills. And there are three in particular that deserve your full, undivided attention...

1. Subsidence

Of all the words you don't want to see in a survey report, subsidence is the one that makes everyone in the chain go very quiet, very quickly. And for good reason. Subsidence happens when the ground beneath a property shifts, causing the foundations to move and the structure above to crack and distort. It can be caused by shrinkable clay soils, leaking drains, or tree roots drawing moisture from the ground. Left unaddressed, it compromises the structural integrity of the whole building. It also has a habit of appearing on every subsequent survey the property ever receives, which tends to make it very difficult to sell your home later on.

Jonathan Christie, co-founder of The Property Buying Company, has seen enough surveys to know exactly how serious this issue can be: "Subsidence is the big one. If a survey identifies signs of ongoing or historical subsidence that hasn't been properly underpinned and signed off, that's serious. It affects the property's structural integrity, it makes the home extremely difficult to insure or mortgage, and the remediation costs can be enormous, branching into the tens of thousands of pounds in many cases."

The key phrase Jonathan uses is "properly addressed". Subsidence that has been correctly treated and signed off by a structural engineer is a very different proposition to subsidence that's been plastered over and ignored. Jessica Risorto explains: "You need to be certain that the correct remedial work has been done, the property has been sufficiently underpinned, and any problematic tree roots have been managed."

So what should you do if subsidence shows up in your survey findings? First, don't assume the worst. Ask whether it's historical or active, whether underpinning has been carried out, and whether the vendor has any documentation to prove it. Then speak to a structural engineer independently, not just the surveyor. If the answers are vague, the paperwork is missing, or the vendor can't confirm the cause has been resolved, that's your sign to walk away.

2. Roof structural defects

A few missing tiles after a stormy winter is the kind of thing you factor into your offer and forget about. What the survey is really looking for is evidence of something far more serious going on underneath.

Roof structural defects, in the proper sense, mean failures in the timber framework that holds the whole thing up. Sagging ridgelines, rotting joists, or evidence that water has been getting in for long enough to cause real damage to the structure below. This isn't a job for your standard neighbourhood roofer either, as it will require a structural engineer and a specialist contractor.

The cost of a new roof is usually a lot more than you'd budget for renovations. Jonathan Christie doesn't mince his words: "A full roof replacement or major structural repair to the roof can easily run into five figures, and it's not something you can defer."

Unlike a cosmetic issue you can live with while you save up, a structurally compromised roof is not 'optional maintenance'. So if your survey flags anything beyond surface-level roof wear, get a specialist in before you proceed. A roofing contractor can give you a realistic cost, and that number will tell you everything you need to know about whether the deal still makes sense.

Jessica Risorto offers a useful way of thinking about it: "A roof that needs replacing is a 'boring' cost, but a highly quantifiable one. The real deal-breaker is if the survey shows the roof issues have severely affected the structural beams or joists underneath, turning a standard reroof into a massively expensive rebuild."

3. Japanese knotweed

Japanese knotweed grows fast, spreads aggressively, and has a root system capable of exploiting cracks in foundations, walls, and drainage pipes. But the reason it causes so much chaos in property transactions isn't just the plant itself, it's what it does to your ability to get a mortgage.

Jonathan Christie is clear on who this affects most: "Mortgage lenders won't lend on a property with an active knotweed infestation unless a professional treatment plan is already in place. If you're a cash buyer you can take a view on it, but for anyone relying on a mortgage, untreated knotweed can stop a purchase in its tracks."

If knotweed shows up in your survey, the first question to ask is whether a professional treatment plan exists. These typically run over several years and should come with a guarantee that's transferable to the new owner. That guarantee is what most lenders want to see before they'll proceed. Without it, you're looking at sourcing and funding the treatment yourself, and then hoping your lender agrees to reconsider.

It's also worth checking where the knotweed is. Growth on a neighbouring property that's encroaching onto the land counts too, and the legal and financial implications can be just as complicated. This Japanese knotweed heatmap identifies the UK's worst affected areas.

When do survey findings affect your mortgage?

Getting a survey back with any of these three findings doesn't automatically mean the purchase is over, but it does mean the next steps matter enormously.

The first thing to do is resist the urge to make any decisions in the hour after reading the report. Surveys are dense, technical documents written in language designed to cover every eventuality. Something that reads as catastrophic upon an initial read can look very different once a specialist has actually been to look at the property.

What you should do — and quickly — is get independent expert eyes on the specific problem. That means consulting a structural engineer for subsidence or roof defects, and a specialist contractor for knotweed. Don't be tempted to ask a general builder or your "friend who did an extension once". Hire someone who can give you a written assessment and a realistic cost. That document will become your most important negotiating tool.

If the survey findings are serious enough, your mortgage lender may already be having second thoughts. Subsidence and Japanese knotweed in particular can make a property extremely difficult to insure or mortgage, and some lenders will withdraw offers entirely until remediation work is evidenced. Knowing the cost of that work, and who is going to fund it, needs to be established before you go any further.

In some cases the vendor will agree to reduce the asking price to reflect the cost of remediation. In others, they may agree to carry out the work themselves before completion. Neither option is inherently better. What matters is that the problem is properly resolved, documented, and signed off before you commit.

Sometimes walking away from a property is the most financially sound decision you'll ever make. The right property, with a clean survey, is out there. For more on navigating the hidden costs of buying a house, including surveys, legal fees and the expenses most buyers don't see coming, we've got you covered. And if you're considering buying a house at auction, where surveys aren't always possible in advance, our guide will help you go in with your eyes open.