With most of us having made the decision to turn off the heating, it's the perfect time to clean your radiators. Being devoid of heat makes them easier to touch, and allows you to get into every nook and cranny without risk.

But with different types of radiators needing certain methods to keep them spick and span, what are the best ways to clean radiators and are there any tips or tricks use, or even more importantly avoid?

We asked some experts for their help and here's what they advise for making sure your heat emitters are clean, fresh and ready for use again in autumn.

Why you should clean your radiators

Although it's easy to forget your radiators when the temperature rises, it's important to understand why a quick dust or wipe on a regular basis isn't enough. Cleaning radiators isn't just about aesthetics, it's about performance too.

"Dust buildup doesn’t just affect how clean your home looks," says Georgina Shepherd, cleaning expert at Housekeep, "it can reduce radiator efficiency too because airflow gets restricted."

Nick Duggan, director of The Radiator Centre agrees. "Spring and summer are the perfect time to give your radiators a little TLC. It doesn't need to take long, and a few simple habits can make a real difference to how well they perform when you need them again in autumn."

How to clean the outside of your radiators

In terms of the tools you'll need, Georgina Shepherd suggests you make sure you have the following to hand before you start.

• A microfibre cloth which collects dust without scratching surfaces
• A vacuum cleaner with a narrow attachment
• A soft brush and warm soapy water – flexible water bottle brushes can also work surprisingly well in narrow spaces

Shop for radiator cleaning items

Cleaning the outside of your radiators

"For most standard steel panel radiators, a wipe down with a damp cloth and a mild detergent is all you need for the exterior," says Nick Duggan. "Don’t forget in between the fins too, that's where dust really accumulates and quietly reduces efficiency. A long, slim radiator brush is brilliant for getting into those tight gaps," he adds.

"Although flat panel radiators are easier to wipe down, don't forget that dust still gathers around the back and wall edges," notes Georgina Shepherd.

"Cast-iron radiators deserve slightly more attention," continues Nick. "Dust loves to settle in the crevices because of their depth and ornate detailing. A soft brush attachment on a vacuum works well here, and it's also a good time to inspect the paint or enamel finish," he adds.

"A soft paintbrush is also surprisingly useful for getting into grooves and corners of cast-iron radiators," suggests Georgina. "Vacuum first, then wipe down afterwards, but do remember it’s worth keeping moisture to a minimum because older finishes can be more delicate," she warns.

Column radiators, like cast-iron radiators can also require a little more TLC say our experts. "This type of radiator often collects dust between the gaps and around the back, which people often miss," says Georgina. A flexible duster such as the one in this 7 piece duster set from Amazon can also be beneficial.

Or, if you don't have one to hand and can't buy one soon enough, Georgina suggests the following trick. "Wrap a microfibre cloth around a ruler or thin stick (even kitchen tongs) and secure it with an elastic band to help reach those awkward spots."

And finally, take extra care if you have designer or aluminium radiators advises Nick.

"Always check the manufacturer's guidance before using any cleaning products," he says. "Many have specialist coatings or finishes that can be damaged by anything too harsh. A soft, dry or lightly damp cloth is usually the safest approach."

Cleaning the inside of your radiators

First things first. When it comes to cleaning the very inside of your radiators, this is not a DIY job warns Nick Duggan.

"To clean the inside of a radiator you will need to get a professional plumber in to power flush your heating system. This will remove any debris that might have built up and should leave you with a more efficient heating system."

However, with panel radiators, some homeowners may take to using a social media trick of using a hairdryer to blow out the dust and debris from inside the vents. But, is this safe to do?

Nick Duggan says no. "On the hairdryer tip, it's not something we'd generally recommend. While blowing out dust sounds sensible in theory, you risk pushing debris into valves and thermostatic radiator valve (TRV) mechanisms, which can cause TRV problems down the line. A vacuum with a brush attachment is far more controlled and just as effective."

Georgina Shepherd says to "vacuum around the top vents first, then use a radiator brush or long flexible duster inside and vacuum up anything that falls out underneath."

While the hairdryer trick is something she has known people use, she notes that it, "can get messy quickly, so it’s worth having the vacuum ready first before you start."

Additional tips for cleaning radiators

Cleaning your radiators needn't be a complicated task, but there are some additional tips that can help ensure you don't cause any problems that could lead to extra expense.

"If the radiator has a matt or textured coating, avoid anything too abrasive, or cleaning products with harsh chemicals as it can mark or damage the surface," says Georgina Shepherd.

"Most radiators are ‘powder-coated’ to give a durable finish so most marks should wash off with ease," continues Nick Duggan. "For more stubborn stains, try some cream cleaner applied to a small area of the dirt or mark using a soft cloth."

In terms of the rest of the radiator parts, "one thing homeowners often overlook is the TRVs," says Nick. "Over summer, the pin inside can seize if it's left in the same position for months.

"Simply turn each TRV dial gently from its lowest to its highest setting and back a couple of times," he suggests. "It only takes a moment and can save you from a non-heating radiator come October.

"Finally, it's worth doing a quick visual check of any visible pipework around the radiator base for signs of corrosion or residue from old radiator leaks," says Nick. "Small issues are far easier to address in the warmer months than when you're desperate for the heating to work."

For more advice on heating your home, check out your guide to the best radiators you can use, and when it comes to installing radiators, make sure you know the height they should be from the floor.

Thousands of households with heat pumps could be paying more than they should to heat their homes because of a hidden issue in how the systems are installed.

New figures presented at a CIBSE Decarbonisation Conference in London suggest that poorly insulated external pipework could be costing some homes around £74 a year in wasted energy.

The findings point to installation quality as a key factor affecting how well the technology performs in real homes.

What the £74 figure is based on

The estimate is based on modelling of heat loss from external pipework where insulation is missing, damaged or poorly fitted.

Even small gaps in insulation can allow heat to escape before it reaches the home, reducing efficiency and increasing running costs.

Across affected households, national energy service WattsWatt estimates this could amount to around £20 million a year in wasted energy.

What experts said at the conference

The issue was highlighted at the CIBSE Decarbonisation Conference in London, which was attended by leading industry and policy figures.

Lisa Malyon, co-founder and CEO of WattsWatt, told the Conference in London that poor insulation on external pipework can drastically affect how efficiently heat pumps operate.

“It’s quite straightforward – if your external pipes aren’t insulated properly, the water cools as it travels through these outdoor pipes, affecting the temperature inside the house. To get the house back up to temperature, the heat pump has to work harder, which uses more energy,” she said.

She added that issues are often only identified after the heat pump installation.

“We first became aware of the issue when households complained their heat pump had stopped working – saying it was nowhere near as good as it had been when it was first installed. It turns out, their external pipework had been insulated with basic grey insulation designed for inside – and it was soaked through.”

Professor Richard Fitton, Professor of Building Performance at the University of Salford, said: “Heat pump technologies need careful design and installation for optimum performance.”

What should affected homeowners do next?

If homeowners suspect their heat pump is not performing properly due to insulation or installation issues, TrustMark – the government-endorsed quality scheme for home improvements – advises that the first step is to contact the original installer.

Most accredited Microgeneration Certification Scheme installations are covered by warranties and consumer protection arrangements, meaning faults may be assessed and corrected without additional cost if raised early.

For homeowners, signs of a potential problem can include:

• Higher than expected running costs
• Reduced heating performance compared to early use
• Visible or poorly protected external pipework

If the installer does not resolve the issue, homeowners can escalate the complaint through TrustMark’s approved dispute resolution process, which is designed to handle problems with certified work.

Homeowners are also advised to keep any paperwork, installation details and records of communication, as this can help support a complaint if further action is needed.

A question I get asked on just about all of the projects I build is, “what’s the best insulation to use?” It’s a fair question, and with more choice than ever, and a lot of it marketed as being higher performance, more sustainable, or somehow smarter than what came before, it's hard to know what is actually best.

The honest answer is that there isn’t a single “best” option. The way we build with insulation has changed massively in recent years.

It’s no longer just about thermal performance defined by a data sheet. It’s now about how materials behave in real buildings, how they’re installed, and how they’ll be durable and reliable over the life of a building.

Why insulation innovations are needed

The process of specifying an insulation product looks straightforward. You meet your U- values under Part L of the building regulations, by selecting an insulation of the appropriate thickness, and then demonstrate compliance through a plethora of assessments including U-value calculations, condensation risk analysis and SAP assessments.

This process is fine on paper, but in reality, insulation performs very differently depending on the conditions it's installed in. For example, warm air carries moisture, and this moisture can move through the building fabric, through gaps, junctions and service penetrations. When it meets a cold surface, it condenses, which is where problems start.

As a result, the new generation of insulation products is starting to focus much more on buildability and issues such as moisture management, which can adversely affect an insulation's thermal performance, as well as damaging building structures.

Breathable construction methods and bio-based insulation

One of the more interesting developments has been the rise of bio-based insulation, particularly products made from hemp and recycled fibres like jute.

Insulation products such as IndiTherm and IndiBreathe Flex are starting to be used on self-build projects, especially where self-builders are concerned about sustainability. Whilst they are using eco insulation such as hemp and recycled fibres to reduce embodied carbon, the broader appeal of these products is how they deal with moisture.

Natural insulation materials such as hemp and wood fibre are hygroscopic. This means that they can absorb moisture and release it again, without deteriorating or significantly affecting their performance. Instead of trapping moisture within a wall or roof, they allow it to breathe and dissipate moisture. This doesn’t mean that a vapour control or airtightness membrane isn’t needed, but it does mean that the building structure has a better chance of drying out if something isn’t quite right.

With traditional, impermeable insulation boards such as EPS, PIR or Phenolic boards, if moisture isn’t properly managed it can get trapped. With natural fibre insulation, there’s a bit more tolerance which makes it more forgiving.

There’s also a school of thought that when a building is insulated with natural insulation, you’ll get a better internal environment. The suggestion is that homes insulated in this way feel less 'sealed', with humidity levels more stable. The result is less condensation, and a healthier internal environment that’s not affected by synthetic-based insulation products.

Alongside hemp and jute, products like Steico wood fibre boards and HempKor systems are also gaining traction. They work on similar principles – breathable, vapour open, and better at managing moisture within the building structure.

This all sounds great, but there are downsides to consider. Natural insulation products tend to require thicker build-ups to achieve the same U-values as high-performance synthetic boards. This has implications for wall thickness, architectural detailing and space.

Shop for eco insulation products

Improving traditional materials with bio-based binders

Not every project is suited to fully bio-based insulation, and many still rely on more conventional materials like glass wool.

What’s encouraging is that these materials are evolving. Manufacturers have started replacing traditional petrochemical binders with lignin-based alternatives which are derived from forestry by-products.

From a site perspective, nothing changes. It installs in the same way, and performs as expected. But the use of environmentally friendly binders is a step in the right direction that reduces our carbon footprint and reliance on fossil fuels.

Advances in high-performance insulation

There are still situations where you need maximum performance in minimal space. This is where high-end insulation products become essential.

Insulation products like Kingspan’s low lambda Kooltherm are widely used because they achieve very low U-values, with relatively thin build ups. In tight urban sites, or where you’re trying to maximise internal floor area, these products can become essential.

In recent years, products like Optim-R, which is a vacuum insulation panel, have pushed slimness even further. While they are eye-wateringly expensive, they are genuinely innovative, and solve problems that other insulation products can’t, such as insulating balconies where threshold details are tight.

While VIP insulation is undeniably innovative, it's not without its drawbacks. Aside from the expense, these products require careful handling, and can’t be cut or modified on site. Damage them and their performance drops significantly, which means they must be handled carefully. They’re also less forgiving in terms of moisture behaviour, so detailing and moisture management is essential.

B&Q currently stock a range of Kingspan Kooltherm insulation boards.

Robotic underfloor insulation

Suspended timber floors are a classic insulation problem area. They’re common in older homes, and insulating them properly is notoriously difficult. Access is limited, working conditions poor, and it’s very easy to miss areas. The result is cold floors, draughts, and a house that’s hard to keep warm.

Systems like Q-Bot have been developed to address this problem. Instead of sending installers under a floor, a small robot is used to apply spray insulation to the underside of the floor which would normally be difficult to reach.

The result is less disruption, a warmer floor with fewer draughts and a noticeable improvement in comfort. While this improves energy efficiency, it also reduces air movement through the floor, so careful design is needed to manage condensation risks.

What building control looks for with new insulation methods

Whilst the building regulations documents set the rules for compliance, building control officers also focus on how a building will perform in reality.

To ensure that a building is energy efficient and safe to live in, they’ll look at what insulation products have been used, and whether they’ve been installed as per the design. Key areas of focus are continuity of insulation, risk of thermal bridging and how moisture is being managed. They’ll also ask for U-values calculations and condensation risk analysis, just to make sure that the products have been properly considered and meet the required standards.

While the same rules will apply to new insulation products, as officers will be familiar with widely used standard insulation products, when it comes to newer and innovative approaches, they’ll likely need a little more convincing before signing off the approach.

Finding the right balance between old and new

For most self-builders, the challenge isn’t choosing the most advanced insulation system. It’s putting together a combination that works for the building, the construction team and still fits within the budget. This means understanding how to achieve a specific level of performance, while balancing the practicalities of installation, airtightness and moisture management.

In my experience, the best results come from a balanced approach. Using breathable materials where moisture risk is higher, high-performance boards where space is limited and always making sure that installation is carried out properly.

Insulation isn’t just about keeping heat in, it’s also about making sure that the building works – not just at completion, but for years to come.

For more in-depth advice on insulating your home, take a look at how long insulation lasts to see if this will impact your purchasing decisions, and how much insulation costs could be to help you plan your budget accordingly.

If you’re the proud owner of underfloor heating, should you turn it off in the summer? With the winter over and the temperature rising, the need for extra home heating is rarely required, so it makes sense to consider switching it off.

But, while there are some obvious benefits to switching off your underfloor heating in the summer, there's more to simply pressing the off button and leaving it until you need it again.

Here, the experts guide you through the correct switch-off process, how to maintain a system during the warmer months, and how to switch it back on without causing any damage.

Should you turn off underfloor heating in the summer?

It's a question more people ask than you might think, confirm Gordon Chalk and Alan Houghton, managing directors at Next Level Underfloor Heating and Screed Solutions.

“People ask us this question all the time, and our answer is that, yes, you should turn off your underground heating in the summer. The main reason is to save energy and be more efficient," they explain.

"Whether it's an electric underfloor heating system or water-based, it is meant to keep you warm in cold weather, so when the temperature outside stays high all the time, in the same way you don't need radiators on, you don't need your underfloor heating on either.”

The alternative is to lower the temperature setting, but Gordon and Alan still recommend switching it off.

“Even if you lower the setting, the system is still 'active' in some way. It might not activate very often if the backup temperature is very low, but it still consumes power (albeit very little) to check the temperature and remain in sleep mode. So, when it's warm for a long time, a full turn-off uses the least amount of energy.”

“Imagine your UFH system as an engine for a car," they expand. "If you're not going anywhere, you wouldn't leave your car running all day, even if the RPMs were very low. It's the same for your underfloor heating. When it's not in use, turning it off fully saves fuel, and keeps it from wearing out.”

Use these with underfloor heating

Benefits of turning off UFH during the summer

Turning off your underfloor heating comes with several benefits:

1. Spend less

Saving money is of course one of the more obvious reasons for turning off your underfloor heating in summer.

“This is without a doubt the biggest and most obvious benefit," confirm Gordon and Alan. " Electric systems don't use power when they're off, and wet systems don't use fuel when their controls and pumps are off. Therefore, whatever type of system you have, turning it off can save you a lot of money on your energy bills over the summer months.”

2. Rest and extend lifespan

Switching off underfloor heating benefits the system as well say Gordon and Alan. “Periods of idleness are good for any mechanical or electrical device. It cuts down on the hours that your boiler, heat pump, circulation pumps, and zone valves have to work in wet systems.”

“It means that the heater elements are under less stress for longer periods, and the thermostat switches have less work to do," they continue. "If these parts experience less wear and tear, they should last longer and break down less often. It's like giving a marathon runner a break between runs.”

3. Fewer carbon emissions

Using less energy will also have a positive impact on the environment. “If you use less energy, you directly reduce your carbon footprint, which is in line with healthy living practices," say Gordon and Alan.

4. Prevents unwanted heat

When a system is off, it won’t release any heat, whereas even if the thermostat is set to a very low temperature, there's still a risk that a sudden drop in temperature outside could activate the underfloor heating inside.

“Even a very low setting could make a home a little warmer than wanted, especially if the home is well-insulated," say Gordon and Alan. "This risk however disappears completely when you turn it off.”

How to switch off underflooor heating

The primary option for controlling electric and water-based systems is to use their associated heaters and central controls.

How to switch off electric UFH

Gordon and Alan explain that the typical process for switching off an electric underfloor heating system, usually means managing it via the room thermostats, although there can be differences.

“First, go to the thermostat in each room that controls your electric UFH zones. Find the setting or button that says off, or standby, and press this. Or, if your system has a central coder or hub, use that to turn off or set all of the zones to holiday mode," they say.

“For extra safety, you could also turn off the UFH's specialised circuit breaker at the consumer unit (fuse box)," they add. "However, unless you're leaving for an extended period, this is generally not necessary.”

How to switch off wet UFH

Switching off a wet (or water-based) system involves a different process.

“The first thing to do is to stop the flow of water from your heat source (boiler or heat pump) to your UFH," say Gordon and Alan, noting that, "this is the most important step. The most common way to do this is through your smart home device or central thermostat.”

“Look for a heating setting that says ‘off’ or ‘summer mode’. Once this is set, the UFH circulation pump won't be able to activate as there will be no hot water supplied to it. On the thermostats in each room, you can also set them to ‘off'," they add. "This ensures that no single zone attempts to call for heat independently.”

Should you switch off power to the main heat source?

Gordon and Alan add a word of caution however regarding turning off the power to your heat source.

“Do not turn off the power unless the manufacturer's guidelines tells you to do so in a certain way during the summer.”

“You will still need hot water for bathrooms and kitchens, and turning your heat source off fully will mean you are without it. Instead, if you want added assurance, make sure your UFH zone valves are closed. Although it’s worth noting," they add, "that these valves generally close themselves when there is no demand.”

Finally, Gordon and Alan offer a smart tip: “If you have a smart home system, creating a 'summer shutdown' option can make this process very easy. With one word, you can turn off all UFH zones."

Maintenance tips for summer shutdowns

To keep underfloor heating in optimum condition, it needs to be properly maintained, even if it's not switched on permanently. This can be particularly important for wet underfloor heating systems.

Gordon and Alan suggest switching the system on either once a month, or bi-monthly for the following reasons:

• Keeps the pump from seizing up – Circulation pumps can freeze up if they are not used for a long time. A short run keeps them oiled and ready to work.
• Keeps valves working – A periodic cycle is also beneficial for zone valves or manifold actuators, as it helps prevent them from stopping.
• Moves water around – This prevents problems with stagnant water and helps keep barriers spread out.

Maintenance for electrical systems

However, if you have an electric underfloor heating system, the same rules don't apply.

"You don't need to turn on electric systems when they're not being used during the summer," confirm Gordon and Alan. "The parts don't move, so they don't face the same problems such as pumps failing or water standing still."

FAQs

How do I turn my UFH back on in autumn?

After a prolonged period of inactivity, a wet-based system takes a while to heat up, so you'll need to bear this in mind when deciding when to turn your UFH back on.

“If a system has been turned off for months, the floor slab will be at room temperature, which could be anywhere from 18°C to 22°C," explain Gordon and Alan. “It will therefore take a long time to heat this mass to a suitable working temperature, such as 24°C to 26°C floor surface temperature.

“It could take anywhere from 24 to 48 hours, or even longer in a big room with poor insulation, to feel fully warm again," they warn.

However, it's important to exercise caution when switching your UFH back on they add.

“Don't turn your UFH back on at full blast when you do so after the summer. Instead, do it over the course of a day or two, slowly raising the set point. This prevents floor finishes from being damaged by sudden temperature changes, and allows the system to heat up more slowly and effectively.”

Are there any common problems to look out for after switching UFH back on?

“There are some things that can go wrong, mostly with wet systems," say Gordon and Alan. “Most of the time, this is caused by a temperature that isn't talking to the zone valve actuator properly, or a zone valve actuator that is stuck and hasn't moved after being idle.

“First, check the setting and battery of the thermostat. Then, check the actuator on the manifold manually," they suggest. “If there are cold spots on wet UFH when you turn it back on, this can also mean that air is stuck in a certain circuit. To sort this, the circuit will need to be bled at the trunk or the main system."

You may also encounter a lack of system pressure (on a wet UFH). "When the pressure gauge shows that the pressure is too low, you will need to repressurise the system according to the directions that came with your boiler or heat pump,” say Gordon and Alan.

Finally, if the system is not switching on (wet and electric), they suggest you, "check the main power supply (circuit breaker), make sure the central programmer is set properly, and make sure each thermostat is asking for heat.”

On a final note, if you’re thinking of installing underfloor heating, in a home renovation, take a look at overlay underfloor heating to see if this could be the best solution for your project.

The government has announced new £2,500 grants for air-to-air heat pumps, in a move designed to help more households install systems that can heat homes in winter and cool them in summer.

The funding forms part of an expansion of the Boiler Upgrade Scheme, aimed at reducing the upfront cost of low-carbon heating technology.

Ministers say the changes will make heat pumps a more practical option for a wider range of homes, including flats and smaller properties.

What the air-to-air heat pump grant is for

The £2,500 grant will help households cover the cost of installing air-to-air heat pumps, which extract heat from outside air and distribute it indoors.

Unlike traditional heating systems, they can also be reversed to provide cooling during warmer months, operating in a similar way to air conditioning.

The scheme is intended to reduce the upfront cost of switching to low-carbon heating and increase uptake across different types of homes.

Who the air-to-air heat pump grant applies to

The new heat pump grant is aimed at domestic properties installing eligible air-to-air heat pump systems through certified installers.

It is expected to be particularly relevant for flats and smaller homes, where traditional wet heating systems can be more difficult or expensive to install.

All installations must be carried out by approved Microgeneration Certification Scheme (MCS) installers in order to qualify for the funding.

What could an air-to-air heat pump cost after the grant?

Air-to-air heat pumps are among the most affordable heat pump systems, costing on average between £2,200 and £8,800, depending on the size of the home and energy demand.

Installation costs typically range from £350 to £1,700, as the systems are generally quicker and simpler to install than other heat pump types because they do not require radiators or a wet heating system.

With the new £2,500 government grant, the upfront cost could fall to a maximum of £6,300. For lower cost systems, the new grant could make it completely free, depending on the size of the system and installation requirements.

How to apply for the grant

Applications for the £2,500 heat pump grant are not made directly by homeowners. Instead, the scheme is handled through approved installers under the Microgeneration Certification Scheme (MCS).

Homeowners must first choose an MCS-certified installer, who will assess the property and provide a quote for an eligible air-to-air heat pump system. If the installation qualifies, the installer will apply for the grant on the homeowner’s behalf and deduct the £2,500 from the upfront cost.

The funding is paid directly to the installer once the installation is complete and all requirements have been met, meaning households do not need to claim the money back themselves.

The expansion marks a further push by ministers to accelerate the shift towards low-carbon home heating while making cooling technology more accessible to UK households.

Most people don’t give much thought to insulating between floors – at least not until it becomes a problem. The thud of footsteps, noisy TVs and the pitter patter of someone having a shower. The fix is often seen as simple – thick carpets, maybe more insulation, or learn to live with the nuisance.

The reality is a bit more nuanced than that, and intermediate floor insulation installed correctly will deal with three problems at once. It reduces sound transfer between floors, slows the spread of fire through the structure, and helps control how heat moves around the house.

If you don’t understand what intermediate floor insulation does, it’s easy to spend money without really solving the problem, but the way you approach it starts with understanding the problems at hand.

The noise problem

Historically, most traditionally built older homes in the UK have a timber intermediate floor between storeys. Timber joists span from wall-to-wall, with floorboards or chipboard on top, and plasterboard ceilings underneath.

This leaves a hollow void which can act like a drum. Sound resonates within the void, amplifying footsteps, voices and music. If the floorboards are slightly loose, or there are gaps around the edges, the noise problem gets worse.

There are two distinct types of noise at play here, and both behave very differently.

• Airborne noise – This is what you hear when someone is talking upstairs or a television is on. It travels through the air and into the structure. The best way to deal with it is by adding insulation to absorb and disrupts sound waves, which would pass through the void.
• Impact noise is different – This is the sharp, physical transmission of energy through the structure: footsteps, dropped objects, kids running across a bedroom. You can almost feel the noise just as much as hear it. This is where people often get caught out, because stuffing insulation between joists does very little to stop it.

Fire safety

The building regulations and Approved Document B, set out the requirements for fire resistance between floors, and as such, fire-stopping between floors is often treated as a building regs compliance issue.

But as timber intermediate floors typically have the least level of fire integrity of any building element, compromising the fire integrity of an intermediate floor has real-world consequences.

Whilst the correct selection of materials, and filling the floor void with non-combustible insulation will help to slow fire spread, gaps are a weak point. Any openings around pipes, cables or at the edges of floors can allow fire to bypass the insulation layer entirely. Fire-stopping products and careful sealing around penetrations are essential, and where attention to detail matters.

In reality, building control officers tend to focus on whether the overall construction provides adequate protection, rather than the specific insulation product used. While this gives some flexibility, it also means responsibility sits with the designer and installer to get the details right. Therefore always consult a competent designer before making any alterations that may impair fire performance.

Insulating intermediate floors

It’s worth being clear that insulating intermediate floors is a very different exercise from insulating a ground floor in older houses.

Ground floors are primarily about controlling heat loss and managing moisture, particularly in suspended timber floors where ventilation is critical to avoid damp and decay.

Intermediate floors, on the other hand, are more about comfort and separation. You’re not dealing with ground moisture or significant heat loss, but with sound transfer, fire protection and internal heat movement.

This changes the priorities, and in intermediate floors, acoustic performance and airtightness often matter much more than thermal resistance.

Insulation options for intermediate floors

The joist void offers the main opportunity to improve performance, particularly in retrofit situations. And provided the work is done properly, it offers an easy win.

Mineral wool or glass wool insulation is typically used here. It’s relatively inexpensive, non-combustible, and dense enough to absorb airborne sound effectively. When fitted correctly between joists, it provides an acoustic break within the empty cavity that would otherwise allow sound to resonate through.

Sounds simple but for the insulation to be able to perform, it needs to sit snugly between joists without being compressed. If it’s squashed around pipes or cables, its performance drops. Equally, if it’s loosely fitted, it won’t do its job properly as air gaps will completely undermine its effectiveness. So don't make this insulation mistake.

Another detail that often gets overlooked is support. Insulation in floors that need to be suspended must be properly supported, typically using netting or timber battens. Without support, insulation will sag over time, creating gaps where sound can penetrate.

It's also worth remembering that electrical cables running through insulation can overheat if they’re completely surrounded. While this isn’t a problem in new homes, older circuits may not have the same current-carrying capacity as modern cables. This doesn’t mean you can’t insulate a floor void, it just means it needs to be done with a bit of care, especially in older properties.

Shop for insulation materials

Insulating from above

If you have the option, insulating from above when insulating between floors is the easiest approach, depending on how the floor has been constructed. Working from above usually means lifting floorboards or removing chipboard decking, which isn’t always possible or convenient, especially if the boards are glued down, or walls are built off them.

If the floor can be lifted, insulation can be cut and fitted tightly between joists with no gaps. And, whilst the floor is up, it’s also possible to deal with another acoustic issue – air gaps.

Gaps around the perimeter of the floor, between floorboards, or where pipes pass through, allow air to move freely between floor levels. This airflow carries both heat and sound, bypassing whatever insulation is installed. Sealing these gaps with insulation, or a flexible acoustic sealant will make a noticeable difference.

Once the floorboards are back in place and sealed up, impact noise can be dealt with. This is where acoustic underlays are popular, with layers of rubber, foam or felt installed beneath the final floor finish. This creates a resilient layer that absorbs the energy of footsteps before it enters the structure.

Insulating from below

Where lifting floors isn’t practical, the only real option is to work from below, which usually requires the ceilings to be replaced.

With the plasterboard ceilings removed, insulation can be installed between the joists before new plasterboard is fixed. It’s a destructive and disruptive process, but possibly the only way to properly retrofit floor insulation.

When taking this approach, it’s worth upgrading the plasterboard ceiling to a different type of plasterboard with better acoustic, or fire performance properties. Acoustic plasterboard, or even doubling up on plasterboard layers will significantly improve airborne sound reduction. Fire-rated plasterboard is also worth considering, particularly in two-storey homes where separating floors form part of the fire strategy.

Insulating a floor from below doesn’t address impact noise in the same way as working from above, so acoustic underlays may still be required.

Choosing the right materials

The correct material choice isn’t about finding a miracle product, but is more about understanding what each material does well.

Mineral wool insulation and glass wool remain the go-to options for most inter-floor insulation. They strike a good balance between how much insulation costs, fire resistance and acoustic performance. High-density acoustic mineral wool products go a step further, offering better sound absorption due to their increased mass, but are without doubt harder to install, especially around existing services.

For impact noise, acoustic underlays are designed specifically to absorb vibration. These sit directly beneath floor finishes such as laminate, engineered timber or even carpet. Whilst specialist acoustic floor systems are available, these are rather technical, expensive and not easy to retrofit within an existing house, especially where headroom is limited.

The key point when choosing materials is that no single material solves everything. In practice, good results come from combining layers, filling mass within floor voids, installing acoustic resilience at the surface, and achieving airtightness with a good level of workmanship.

Insulating between floors is one of those jobs where small details make a big difference. It’s not complicated and is often one of the best ways to insulate a home, but it’s easy to get wrong.

Over the years I’ve seen many projects, and even new build ones where expensive materials were installed poorly and delivered very little performance. I’ve also seen relatively simple upgrades such as well-fitted mineral wool, combined with decent airtightness transform how a house feels.

In my experience, getting things right requires a focus on the system as a whole, and not just the insulation. Think about how sound, air and heat move through the floor, and deal with each of them, not forgetting that exceptional standards of workmanship and quality are essential to achieve the desired outcome.

More than 200,000 eligible homeowners will receive a leaflet through their letterbox next week advising them how to claim extra funding if they want to upgrade to a heat pump.

Originally announced earlier this year, the uplift in funding from £7,500 to £9,000 under the Boiler Upgrade Scheme, is targeted at properties in England and Wales that don't connect to mains gas, and are reliant on an oil or LPG boiler.

Coming into force on 21 July 2026, it is hoped the 20% increase will make it more affordable for thousands of homeowners to make the switch.

Why the extra funding is being made available

The Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) supports the installation of low-carbon heating systems, and is currently capped at £7,500 for households replacing gas boilers.

The higher grant of £9,000 will apply to homeowners in England and Wales who are looking to replace an oil or LPG fed boiler with an air-source or ground-source heat pump.

The government says the change reflects higher upfront costs often faced by rural households upgrading heating systems, and has partly been fuelled by the crisis in the Middle East.

In a government statement, Minister for Energy Consumers, Martin McCluskey, said: "This government is determined to bring down energy bills, but I know the war in the Middle East has hit households on heating oil especially hard. We have already taken action to support these households through confirming over £50 million in support for vulnerable customers on heating oil. Now, the Boiler Upgrade Scheme will help thousands of families across England and Wales switch to clean heat to protect them from volatile fossil fuels."

How the process will work

As with all Boiler Upgrade Scheme grants, the heat pump must be installed by a Microgeneration Certification Scheme (MCS) registered installer, who can apply for the grant on your behalf. The money is paid directly to them, thereby reducing your upfront costs.

If you don't receive a leaflet over the coming weeks, homeowners can also use the official UK government Boiler Upgrade Scheme eligibility checker on GOV.UK to see if they are eligible. It asks a few basic questions about your home and heating system and tells you if you’re likely to qualify.

However, there are some conditions. There is an end date to the increased amount which is currently stated as March 2027. The same 120-day install window also applies, meaning your installer must commission and install the heat pump within 120 days of applying for the grant.

How your eligibility will be assessed

The leaflet being issued by the government will explain how to assess your suitability, but in essence, a registered installer will also look at your home, confirm eligibility, and complete the application process as part of the installation.

What will then happen is that the installer will typically replace the existing heating system, including removing oil or LPG boilers and install a heat pump as the new main source of heating.

In some cases, additional work such as adjustments to radiators or insulation may be needed, depending on the property.

The higher grant level is intended to make heat pump installations more financially accessible for households facing the highest upfront costs, particularly those replacing oil-based heating systems, and with rising oil costs, the news could come as some relief for rural homeowners.

On the whole, it has been received positively by industry leaders, with Matt Copeland, Head of Policy and Public affairs at National Energy Action saying in response to the government statement: "This is a positive step for households relying on heating oil, who have recently faced the highest and most volatile energy costs. Many families will be expecting to ration their heating in the coming winter, living in homes they cannot afford to keep warm, not through choice but constraint. 

"Supporting the shift to cleaner heating in these homes can help deliver greater stability and lower bills. The real test," he notes, "will be whether this support reaches those most at risk and makes homes genuinely affordable to heat."

Like many people in the UK over the last few years, I’ve become a lot more interested in how much energy my house actually uses. Gas prices have been very volatile due to the conflict in Ukraine, and now with further conflicts in Iran it looks like prices are expected to rise again.

Living in a Victorian home, which we are currently renovating, means I keep an extra watch on the heating bill. And, while our current set up works well, I started wondering whether the way in which the boiler was set up was affecting bills.

The boiler flow temperature is the one boiler setting that a homeowner can easily control, and one that can have an effect on how the boiler operates, and the energy it consumes. Here's how I changed mine, and what happened when I did.

What is the flow temperature and why does it matter?

Put simply, the flow temperature is the temperature of the hot water leaving the boiler and circulating around the heat emitters, such as radiators. Traditional thinking is that a higher temperature heats the radiators quickly, and brings rooms up to temperature fast.

This means when your boiler is installed, the plumber often sets the flow temperature high at 70°c, or occasionally even 75-80°c.

But, newer thinking suggests that running your gas boiler at a lower flow temperature can improve efficiency, particularly with modern condensing boilers which are designed to recover extra heat from exhaust gases.

The theory states that boilers actually run more effectively when the water returning to the boiler from the radiators is relatively cool, around 50°c. So, if the flow temperature is very high, the return temperature tends to be high as well, which then means the boiler spends less time operating in its most efficient condensing mode.

How I adjusted my flow temperature

Our heating system consists of a Baxi 24Kw EcoBlue condensing gas boiler, with cast iron column radiators and a Nest smart thermostat. The system works well, but I started wondering if it could operate more efficiently.

I decided to try an experiment to see if the theory about flow temperature worked in a real life situation. I adjusted the boiler settings to reduce the flow temperature to 63°C, and ran the heating system as normal for a full month throughout January 2026, to see if it would make any measurable difference.

The thermostat schedule stayed the same, and we heated the house exactly as we usually did. This meant the heating was on in the morning from 6.00am-9.00am, again at 12.00pm-2.00pm, another burst at 4.00pm-6.00pm and then finally again in the evening from 9.00pm-11.00pm. This maintained a steady temperature of between 19°C-21°C during the day, and around 18°C-19°C overnight.

Shop smart thermostats to help manage your energy consumption

What happened when I changed my flow rate

Lowering the flow temperature definitely changed how the system behaved. The radiators no longer blasted out intense heat quickly after the boiler fired up. Instead, they warmed up more gradually, and most importantly, the heating cycles ran for longer, but at a gentler level of output. I could also tell that the boiler was running in condensing mode, mostly because it was a lot quieter, which was an added benefit.

In theory this is exactly what you want. A condensing boiler operating steadily at lower temperatures should be more efficient. But did this translate into actual financial savings in our energy bills?

I tracked gas consumption through the app provided by my energy provider. It certainly looked lower. And there's no doubt that the house was warmer in a more constant way.

I looked back on the app and was able to compare January usage across multiple years. It's a good month for a test because it’s typically the coldest, and heating demand is high. The results were as follows:

• January 2026: 2,246 kWh
• January 2025: 2,412 kWh
• January 2024: 2,303 kWh

At first glance 2026 appears slightly better than 2025, but not dramatically different from 2024.

What do the results mean?

In summary, the change in flow temperature didn’t produce a huge drop in overall gas consumption. The difference between years was only a couple of hundred kilowatt-hours across the entire month.

Initially this seemed disappointing, but we have to factor in weather differences. 2025 wasn't an especially cold winter, so that almost certainly accounts for part of that variation, as even small changes in average outdoor temperature can shift heating demand.

In terms of actual money, the difference across the years I measured was around £40 for the month. This is still a good saving, but as gas prices in early 2026 were lower than in the previous couple of winters, there is a chance the cost comparisons were affected by the change in energy tariff changes, rather than the operation of the boiler. So even if the gas bill looked better, the actual gas usage was similar.

So did lowering the flow temperature help? Possibly a little, but not dramatically in terms of energy usage and costs.

Will I keep my flow temperature lower?

The financial gains however are not the end of the story. What did clearly change was how the heating system behaved. Instead of rapid bursts of heat followed by the boiler shutting down, (short cycling) where the boiler and the thermostat try to chase small 0.5°c increments, the system ran in longer, steadier cycles which is much more efficient. These longer runs are also easier on the boiler and are generally considered good practice, especially for condensing systems.

Another potential advantage is comfort. Lower flow temperatures often produce a more even indoor temperature rather than sharp swings between hot and cool. This is also seen in heat pump and underfloor heating set ups.

As a result, I believe that adjusting the flow temperature is still worth trying, especially because it’s simple and easily reversible. I've left my boiler at 63°c and I'm happy with that.

I had hoped for greater savings, but ultimately became more about fine-tuning an already functioning system, than achieving dramatic reductions in energy consumption.

The system continues to run reliably and comfortably at the lower setting, and the boiler is definitely running more smoothly. This is also evidenced by the pressure, which at 75°c often got up to 2.5 bar plus, while at 63°c it runs at no more than 2.0 bar. This again puts less stress on the system and reduces the risk of boiler problems or extra maintenance.

Overall, I'm pleased with the experiment as the house is consistently warmer, and more comfortable. The bills have reduced – even if only slightly, and the boiler is working more efficiently in its optimal range. For very little effort the rewards are quite impressive and substantial.

For more ways to reduce your energy bills, take a look at these energy saving tips, find out when to turn off your heating in spring, and make sure your draught-proofing measures are all up to scratch.

Heating oil is the primary source of heating for around 5% of homes in the UK, which equates to roughly 1.5 to 1.7 million homes.

Given the recent news and the war in the middle east, the cost of heating oil has exponentially increased, leaving many homeowners in financial turmoil and many wondering what the alternatives are (aside from sitting at home with no heating or hot water).

From temporary measures through to longer-term fixes, heating and energy expert, David Hilton explains how to avoid feeling the pinch from your oil bills.

1. Manage the heat output with motorised valves

The first thing you can do, before taking any dramatic options like throwing out the oil boiler, is to manage the heat.

Turning down thermostatic radiator valves (TRV) a bit will help, but they are not all that accurate. For more precise temperature control, it is worth considering motorised TRVs for the radiators.

Systems like Honeywell EVO, Tado or Drayton Wiser have electronic TRVs that can be set to keep rooms at specific temperatures, and schedules can be set so that the room temperatures are different throughout the day.

You can also set an away mode, so that temperatures can be set to 2 or 3 degrees cooler when you are not home, saving you both energy and oil. And, it's also easy to install one. The motorised valves simply replace the manual TRVs. You do not need to isolate the radiators or drain them, but you do need to check what type of TRV you already have to be sure that the new motorised ones are compatible.

It's also worth noting that systems are better than others at creating their own communication network. This may impact you if your home has thick walls or foil wrapped insulation and plasterboard. Do your research to be sure the system you get is compatible with your home, and meets your expectations.

Shop for motorised TRVs

2. Consider switching to a heat pump

Taking out the oil boiler and replacing it with a heat pump is a very common option, and with the Boiler Upgrade Scheme still offering a £7500 incentive, it can be a very attractive solution.

Your home would need to be surveyed to make sure that the central heating system and insulation levels are compatible with the low and slow temperatures associated with heat pump system, and whether you install an air source heat pump or a ground source heat pump the BUS grant incentive is the same.

A ground source heat pump costs more than an air source heat pump to install, but is slightly more efficient. The ground source heat pump also needs an area of land outside the home that is around 2 to 3 times bigger than the floor area of the home, which may be an option considering the rural nature of many homes heated by heating oil.

3. Or, consider a hybrid heating system

But what if your home isn't suitable for just a heat pump system? The house may be a little too large, the insulation may not be quite good enough, the radiators may be a little bit under sized, or the central heating pipework may also be a little on the small side.

The good news is, this may be just the type of scenario that is suited to a hybrid heat pump system. Often also referred to as a bi-valent system, a hybrid heating system is where there is a heat pump and a boiler plumbed into the same home.

It's an interesting one to consider as a hybrid system can also be set up in a number of different ways. These include:

Use your existing boiler to 'top-up' heat

In this scenario, a common hybrid system would include the oil boiler (usually the boiler already existing in the home) and a heat pump being added in to the heating system. As the heat load of the home will usually be higher than the output of the heat pump, the boiler is left in-situ so that it can either top up the heat pump heat, or take over from the heat pump on the colder hours, or days.

Splitting your heating and hot water

Another version of a hybrid system is to let the heat pump cover the home heating and the oil boiler deliver the domestic hot water. Or, alternatively, a heat pump delivers the hot water and the boiler powers the central heating.

This option would need a small heat pump and not the type of air source heat pump we are used to seeing outside the home. Instead, this is one that is built into the water cylinder and also known as a micro heat pump, or an exhaust air heat pump.

The micro heat pump adds around 400mm to the height of the unit, and there are two air ducts connected to the top of the cylinder, one acting as an extractor fan bringing air into the heat pump from the bathroom, kitchen and en-suite in order to extract the heat from it, before exhausting the stale air to the outside of the home. Exhaust air heat pump cylinder costs start at around £2000.

4. Use an immersion heater for hot water

You can install a simple domestic direct hot water cylinder with an immersion heater to avoid needing to use your oil boiler when heating oil prices are unaffordable.

If you are on an electric vehicle or off-peak electric tariff, then set the heater to heat the water during the cheap time. These types of cylinders start at around £300 and can be plumbed into an existing heating system as long as you have space for a water cylinder in an appropriate position.

Adding an immersion heater can also be considered a hybrid system.

5. Use plug-in electric heat sources until prices come down

Continuing on the simple heating system theme, the lowest capital cost heating systems are direct electric systems. Whether you are looking to use simple electric panel heaters, fan convectors or oil filled radiators the principle of direct electric heating is based on the concept of ‘total cost of ownership' – lower capital costs but higher running costs.

If the annual energy use is fairly low then this principle works, but higher energy use does not. If you assume the average electricity cost to be around 22p per kWh then given the average efficiency of a condensing oil boiler of 90% then the cost of oil would need to be over £1.80 a litre before oil is more expensive than direct electricity.

Older, lower efficiency boilers would bring this cost comparison down. If the boiler was only around 70% efficient, then the cost of oil would only need to be around £1.40 to be more expensive than a peak electricity tariff.

If you have an off-peak electric tariff, like I do, such as an electric vehicle tariff used with my heat pump, then the electric heaters can be used during the cheaper times. This is primarily a temporary solution to extend the time that the oil in your tank will last before you need to fill it again.

If you invest in a heat pump then the capital cost, even with the BUS grant, could be around £5000+, and that buys a lot of electricity. So, the energy use needs to be a bit higher, and a permanent long-term solution.

Shop for electric heating products

6. Install infra-red heating panels

Infra-red radiant panels may also be a direct electric heating solution – but with a difference. Infra-red heating does not heat up air because the radiant nature of the heat means that it travels straight through it. Instead it heats up objects.

This means you have to target the heating to heat up the people, rather than the whole house, but you use a lot less energy. It is still direct electricity, and the cost per kWh is high, but the amount you use is less.

Infra-red heat feels different however, and the system needs to be designed properly so that you have the right emitters in the right place. Many people love it, although many also prefer it as complimentary heat where it is combined with an existing background heat. My recommendation would always be to try and experience it first before you commit to purchasing.

And last, but certainly not least, in my personal opinion, complementary heating does not get any better than a log burner, as long as you burn dry wood. It is a great feature in the home and if you have a resource of wood, even odd shapes, then you have free fuel. When the log burner is being used then the oil boiler will work less, and lower your annual consumption of oil.

If any of these oil boiler alternatives don’t appeal for any reason, then you can of course also turn down the heating-oil boiler, as this will make the oil last longer.

If your radiators are cold at the bottom, they are not heating up properly. This means you are not getting the heat output you should, and you’ll have to turn up the heating to compensate. This will mean higher heating bills and a strain on your heating system.

It doesn’t matter what type of radiator you have; you need to ensure your heating system runs as efficiently as possible, which is critical to keeping bills down. Here, heating experts reveal the common issues that could be causing your radiators to be cold at the bottom and five fixes to sort the problem.

How a radiator heats up

Knowing where a radiator heats up first helps determine whether it is working as expected. Matthew Powell, the founder of WarmZilla, explains, “In a correctly working system, the radiator should start warming at the bottom of the inlet side, where the flow pipe enters the radiator, before heat rises up through the radiator.”

He continues, “Homeowners can often identify this by feeling which pipe gets hot first to the touch. From there, heat spreads upwards and across the panel as hot water circulates through the internal channels.”

However, if not working as it should, Powell explains what happens: “If the radiator only gets hot in one small area and the warmth does not spread, that uneven pattern is a useful clue that flow is restricted.”

Can I flush/clean a radiator myself?

Martyn Bridges, director of external affairs at Worcester Bosch, says, “Not really.” He adds, “A professional installer will be able to analyse the severity of the contamination and take the correct remedial action.”

However, a competent DIYer can tackle some simpler solutions, shares Matt Powell, “Many homeowners can safely bleed radiators, free a TRV pin, do light balancing, and flush a single radiator, provided the system is cool, and you protect floors from dirty water.”

Lee Saunders, heating expert at Toasty, points out that some jobs have to be left to the professionals: “A full system power flush is not a DIY job. This requires specialist equipment to force a cleaning solution through the entire heating system and should always be carried out by a qualified professional.”

Shop these radiator products for a new look

Reasons why radiators are cold at the bottom

There are a range of reasons for a radiator to be cold at the bottom. Here, the experts reveal more about the common causes.

Build-up of sludge

Martyn Bridges says, “Generally, if a radiator is colder at the bottom, then the water within it is contaminated; at its worst, it can form a sludge-like substance.” Lee Saunders adds, “Over time, dirt, rust, and debris can collect inside the radiator and settle at the bottom. This restricts the flow of hot water and significantly reduces the radiator's ability to heat.”

Bridges shares one reason for this: “This could be down to the water within the system not being properly flushed when the system was installed, leaving the jointing compounds used to install the pipework still present within the water.”

Matt Powell offers another common reason: “Magnetite is often the main culprit.” He continues, “Magnetite is a black iron oxide and the primary component of central heating sludge, as well as the leading cause of internal corrosion in UK heating systems.” He adds, “In hard-water areas, scale can add to the restriction.”

A stuck/seized TRV

A faulty TRV can lead to problems, Saunders says, “A stuck valve can also stop hot water from entering the radiator altogether, leaving it cold.” Powell adds, “A partially stuck TRV pin limits how far the valve opens, limiting water flow.”

Low pressure

Bridges says, “Air within the system typically occurs as the water pressure within the system drops.” He adds, “This is normally down to micro leaks from radiator valves or the air vent point, but can be from anywhere on the system.”

Bridges says to look out for stains, “If you notice browning or stains around the radiator valves, then that is likely to be a micro leak that will be so small you won’t notice water being present as it evaporates so quickly when the system is running.”

Low pressure also causes poor circulation. Saunder says, “This can be linked to system pressure issues or an imbalanced heating system, preventing hot water from reaching the radiator properly.”

Fixes for radiators cold at the bottom

Powell recommends starting with the simplest check: “If the top of the radiator is cooler than expected, bleed it first and then top up system pressure if you have a sealed system.” Next try the following.

1. Check the TRV

Once you’ve done this its time for other checks and fixes. Powell says, “Check the TRV is actually opening by removing the TRV head and making sure the small metal pin beneath moves in and springs back freely.” If it doesn't invest in a new onae and follow our guide on how to fit thermostatic radiator valves.

2. Fix the flow

Next, look at the flow. Powell says, “If the lockshield valve is barely open, opening it by a quarter turn can improve circulation, and if several radiators heat unevenly, it may need a proper rebalance so each radiator gets its share of flow.”

3. Push up the pressure

Saunders says, "If the system pressure is too low, it can affect circulation." To fix this, he adds, "This can usually be topped up using the filling loop – always follow your boiler manual to ensure it’s done safely." Follow our guide on how to repressurise a boiler.

4. Check boiler system settings

A quick and simple fix could be the boiler, explains Saunders, "If your heating isn’t performing as expected, check the boiler settings. Make sure it’s not in summer mode, and that temperatures are set correctly. A simple reset can sometimes resolve minor issues."

5. Get a flush

If none of the other fixes in this guide sort out the cold bottom in your radiator then the next step is to get a chemical or power flush. If your heating system hasn't had a power flush in the last four or five years, it makes sense to get one done as soon as possible.

Power flush costs

Power flushing is a method for cleaning the inside of radiators and associated pipework. Lee Saunders, heating expert at Toasty, advises on how much you can expect to pay for a power flush. “You can typically expect to pay between £300–£800 for a power flush, although this can vary depending on factors such as your location, the size of your system, and the number of radiators in your home.”

Powell offers further details on costs: “Typical UK power flush costs are around £350 to £650 for a small to medium-sized home,” He adds, “With a standard three-bed semi with 8 to 10 radiators typically coming in at around £470 to £550 in 2026.”

As a general guideline, the more radiators you have, the more a power flush will cost. Powell shares the cost for larger homes, “Larger properties with 15 or more radiators can exceed £800. If a full power flush is not needed, a professional chemical flush without a high-pressure machine usually costs around £150-£350.”

However, it's worth noting that a power flush isn’t an annual occurrence, shares Saunders, “In terms of frequency, a power flush isn’t something that needs to be done regularly — it’s usually only required when there are signs of sludge or poor system performance, rather than on a fixed schedule.” As a guideline, expect to do a power flush every 4-5 years.

A power flush alternative

An alternative to a full power flush is a chemical clean. These are added to help keep gunk and sludge from accumulating inside radiators. Powell shares how much for a chemical flush: “If a full power flush is not needed, a professional chemical flush without a high-pressure machine usually costs around £150 to £350.”

Chemical inhibitors (like this Sentinel X100 System Inhibitor from Toolstation) can be bought for around £20, if you have the know-how to add yourself.

FAQ

Can more than one radiator in a home be cold at the bottom at the same time?

“Yes,” says Saunders. “And it’s actually quite common.” He adds, “If multiple radiators are cold at the bottom, it’s usually a sign of a wider system issue rather than a problem with just one radiator.”

If just one radiator is cold at the bottom, the problem is localised, but again, it's most likely a sludge buildup. Powell says, “If only one radiator is affected, isolating and flushing just that radiator can work well.”

He continues on how to deal with the issue, “With the heating off and fully cool, close both valves, note how many turns you closed the lockshield so you can return it to the same setting, drain the radiator, take it outside, and flush it through with a hose until the water runs clear.”

Once this is done, he says, “Refit, refill the system, bleed, and bring pressure back to the correct range. After any drain-down or flush, it is wise to ensure the system has an inhibitor at the correct concentration to protect water quality.”

Power-flushing radiators helps restore their efficiency, but it might be time to replace them with smart new ones. Try these designer radiator ideas and living room radiator ideas. If you are installing new radiators, check if radiators under windows are a wise idea.

When choosing a heat source for your home central heating system, heat pumps are now a mainstream, and well supported, technology. But, to some homeowners they are still not as well known or familiar as boilers.

And, while heat pumps are categorised a type of renewable energy, they do still require electricity which leads to homeowners wondering how much electricity will my heat pump use?

While everyone's costs will vary depend on a number of factors, not least of all the size of your home and how often you require heat, there are ways of understanding potential electricity costs, as energy expert, David Hilton explains.

How do heat pumps use electricity?

Heat pumps have operational characteristics that are different from other heating technologies such as gas boilers or oil fired central heating. In simple terms heat pumps do not burn a fossil fuel, they move heat from one place to another. The heat pump is usually named after the place it extracts the heat from.

An air-source heat pump gets its heat from the ambient air around the heat pump, while a ground source heat pump extracts the heat from a large network of pipes buried in the ground. The heat is absorbed by a refrigerant circuit and then enhanced before being transferred into the central heating system.

The source of the heat (nature) may be free, but the transfer process uses energy, and that energy is electricity.

Why heat pump efficiency impacts electricity use

Heat pumps operate on an efficiency called a Coefficient of Performance (COP). This is the ratio of electricity used to heat the energy delivered into the home. So, if the heat pump uses 1 unit of electricity to move 4 units of heat to the home, then the COP would be 4 or 400%. The harder the heat pump works then the lower the COP.

So, what causes a heat pump to work harder? Well, there are two main reasons for the heat pump to work hard. Colder temperatures in the air or ground (the source), or the need for higher temperatures in the home.

The ideal scenario for an efficient heat pump, is a small temperature difference between the heat source and the required delivery temperature. If the air is 7°C and the required water temperature is 35°C then the temperature difference is only 28°C. In this scenario you may expect a COP of around 4.

But, if the air temperature is -7°C outside and the required water temperature is 55°C, then the temperature difference is now 62°C – more than twice the temperature rise, and therefore around half the efficiency.

As the season changes and the required heat loads change, so will the COP. So, in order to get a better grasp of the efficiency it is usual to use the Seasonal Coefficient of Performance (SCOP) which is the COP averaged over a year.

From these figures we can see that it is best to let a heat pump run slowly all the time. A common heat pump mistake is to use short start-stop cycles in the same way you might operate a gas boiler. However, this method makes the heat pump work harder as it tries to reheat the water, and needs to achieve a bigger temperature difference in doing so.

There are a number of other influencing factors regarding this matter, but to keep things simple, the COP and SCOP are the main headline contributors to the efficiency of a heat pump – and subsequently how much electricity it will use.

Which heat pump is more efficient – ground source or air source?

When it comes to weighing up the efficiency of an air source heat pump vs ground source heat pump, the efficiency of air source heat pumps tends to be more variable than a ground source heat pump. This is because the air temperature can change very quickly, and very frequently, sometimes many times in a day.

A ground source heat pump however gets its heat from the ground, where the temperature is much more constant. The ground temperature can be around 10°C at a depth of 1.5m, and this temperature may only drop a few degrees across the whole of the heating season in drier ground.

The consistent source temperature can mean that ground source heat pumps are slightly more efficient than air source heat pumps, mainly due to the fact the ground temperature will be higher than the average air temperature during the heating season, when underfloor heating and radiators will be used more often.

How much electricity will my heat pump use?

Given the variable nature of the efficiency of a heat pump, in order to determine how much electricity a heat pump uses will depend on two main factors – how much heat the home needs, and what the actual heat pump efficiency is.

Let’s say your home uses 12000kWh of heat energy per year. If the heat pump ran at a COP of 4 then you would use 3000kWh of electricity. But if the efficiency COP was closer to 2, then you would use 6000kWh of electricity.

You might then think that you simply multiply the amount of electricity by the unit price, but that is too simple an equation.

The exact amount of electricity used will depend a lot on when the heat pump runs the most. The lions’ share of the annual energy use will be in the heating season (mainly winter), and you may also have different electricity costs at different times, especially if you have an electric vehicle tariff or special heat pump tariff.

Although you will want to run your heat pump during the cheaper off-peak times, it is inevitable that it will also need to run during the more expensive peak times. On average your heat pump may have a COP of 3, meaning that you will use around 4000kWh of electricity per year to produce 12000kWh of heat.

If we assume that 50% (and that is an optimistic estimate) of the energy is used during off-peak times, then 2000kWh will be charged at around 8p (£160/year) and 2000kWh at 28p (£560/year).

That’s a total of £720/year. But, if you only use 25% of the energy in the cheap time, then your cost rises to £920.

Please also note that these cost scenarios are based on an average COP of 3 and 12000kWh per year for heating energy, and do not include standing charges or any other electricity use in the home such as car charging, lighting, laundry, cooking or any other appliances. Different rates may also apply to different tariffs from different providers.

In summary, if you are looking at ways to make sure your heat pump uses electricity effectively, you need to specifically manage the use of the energy, and try to target the energy use at cheap tariff times.

Solar PV panels and solar battery systems used with heat pumps can also help reduce electricity costs, by generating electricity that your heat pump can use. And finally, do not turn the heat pump off, make sure that you stay on top of heat pump maintenance with an annual service, and undertake regular checks on the performance and balancing of your central heating system.

With the cost of living rocketing, not least of all as a result of rising energy bills, I have been intrigued, as have many of us, by the idea of living in a home with no energy bills.

So, when I was given the chance to visit an Octopus Energy Zero Bills home I leapt at the opportunity – particularly as it wasn't just one home, it was 89 of them.

I don’t really know what I was expecting from the visit. Zero bills just sounded too good to be true but, on the other hand, I also know from experience that Octopus Energy have had previous successes in this arena with some innovative software. I wanted the concept to work, as after all, who wouldn't want a zero bills home?

What's different about these zero bills homes?

In the past few years there have been many house building standards introduced to improve the fabric of the building, with the overall aim of reducing the energy consumption of the home.

Whereas the Standard Assessment Procedure (SAP) is the assessment method used for current building regulations, and is key to producing Energy Performance Certificates (EPCs), it will inevitably be replaced in the near future by Home Energy Modelling (HEM) with the full adoption of the Future Homes standard.

Other assessment methodologies, such the Code for Sustainable homes, Super E, Carbonlite, BREEAM and PassivHaus have been created by various organisations to try and improve on SAP and deliver energy efficient homes to as close to net-zero carbon emissions as possible.

However, all of these standards are able to deliver homes to a very high performance specification, but none of them guarantee zero bills for the homeowner.

Octopus Energy's Zero Bills homes on the other hand, are built on the offering that if you follow the specification, fit the prescribed technologies to your home, and hand the control over to Octopus Energy to manage, then they will guarantee you have no energy bills for up to 10 years.

And, while zero bills homes have predominantly been deployed through developers, (over 5000 homes are already approved as eligible for zero bills), self-builders who are undertaking one-off new build homes, can also join the scheme.

Octopus Energy have set a target to have 100,000 zero bills homes by 2030, so there is still time to get involved. Early engagement is key to make sure that you specify the right products, as not all PV, battery systems and heat pumps are compatible.

So what’s the catch I hear you ask. Well, there isn’t one, but, there are some rules. Clearly you cannot heat up your neighbour's house, or charge every electric car in the street for other people, but that doesn't mean they don't come with some impressive renewable energy tech.

What's included in these zero bills home?

The site I visited, Hollymead Square, is a development site being developed by The Hill group in Newport, Essex, and has 89 mixed-tenure energy efficient 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 bedroom homes, as well as 2-bed bungalows.

All of the zero bills properties have all been installed with photovoltaic solar panels, solar battery storage, electric vehicle charger and an air source heat pump. It's definitely a high-end development, and one of the better sites I have visited.

The rooms in the homes are large and there is a great sense of space in every home I visited. Wet underfloor heating is standard on the ground floor, with radiators upstairs, all designed for the low temperature heat pump systems.

The developers have said that the home insulation level is above current building regulations, with predicted SAP being 113/100 depending on the house type and specification. This compares very favourably against an average SAP of around 85/100 for new homes in the UK, and equates to an A-rating EPC.

The homes also have a SAP CO2 reduction of around 105%, compared with homes built to building regulations Part-L 2021. These particular homes were designed in the early days of the zero bills concept, and have a 5-year zero bill guarantee.

Hannah McCarthy, head of zero bills at Octopus Energy, has also said that she sees no reason why this 5-year tariff, or the newer specification 10-year guarantee, could not be continued after the guaranteed time period has passed.

What are the requirements for these homes to be classified as zero bills?

I was still curious about the zero bills claim and how that worked, wondering if there was some sort of formula that would require a whole field of solar panels and a large room full of solar batteries.

Thankfully, this isn't the case. The process of assessment for an Octopus Energy Zero Bills home involves an individual assessment, taking into account a variety of details, including roof analysis, SAP assessment, orientation and occupancy.

Looking at an average home on this site of around 150m2 floor area, it had between 8kWp to 10kWp of solar PV panels (around 20 to 24 panels), a minimum of 13kW of battery storage, an electric vehicle charger and an air source heat pump designed and commissioned to cover the full heat load of the home.

The annual energy use of the home must equal the annual ‘generation’ from the PV panels over a whole year, and there is an additional fair use allowance of 4000 kWh (units of electricity) per year.

Putting that into perspective, a new build home would be expected to use between 8000kWh and 10000kWh per year. Considering that an 8kWp (south facing) solar PV array should also generate up to around 8000kWh per year then the additional 4000kWh makes the scheme very appealing, and it is also quite clear that there is no apparent ‘catch’.

You would normally expect to generate far more energy in summer and use far more in winter, but as the energy use is based on a whole year, these two can balance out.

What are the advantages of these zero bill homes?

One of the key lifestyle advantages of these Octopus Energy Zero Bills homes is that the homeowner can use energy at any time of day. They can put the tumble dryer on and cook meals whenever they want, as they are not limited to using certain tariffs at different times.

There is no time management required, no need to programme appliances to operate at midnight, and no limitation on the heating during the day in winter. There is also no standing charge, which saves a further 65p a day.

Unfortunately, electric vehicle charging is not included in the scheme. This is charged at the intelligent Octopus Energy rate, but this means you can still benefit from cheaper charging at the off-peak night time tariff.

Homeowners can also leave the scheme if they choose to manage the technologies themselves, there is no tie in and no commitment. The only condition being that you can't leave the scheme every summer to enjoy export tariffs when the sun is shining, and rejoin it in winter.

If things go to plan, it would be nice to think zero bills could be the way we all live in the future.

While we may not be quite at the stage where I say yes, you can turn any home into a zero bills home, in an ideal world, my kids will come to me when they are older and say, “Hey Dad! Remember those days when you used to moan about those things called electricity bills?” And I will say, “Yes, son! They’re a bit like telephones, DVDs and petrol stations….. nobody uses them anymore!”

Underfloor heating is the kind of luxurious feature that everyone wants in their bathroom and kitchen. But for homeowners renovating existing properties, particularly older homes, the major disruption of retrofitting a traditional underfloor heating system, such as digging up floors, pouring screed, and significantly raising floor levels can turn a dream into a nightmare.

One alternative is to consider an electric system, but this may not always be the most cost effective solution, which is when overlay underfloor heating may be a suitable solution.

Designed to work in the same way as a traditional system, but without the disruption, here's what to consider if you're thinking of it for your home renovation.

How does overlay underfloor heating work?

Rather than being embedded within the floor structure, overlay underfloor heating systems are designed to sit directly on top of the existing subfloor and beneath the finished floor surface.

They use low-profile, pre-routed boards, typically made from high-density insulation materials, which house smaller diameter pipework, allowing the system to operate effectively without the need for thick screed. This approach dramatically reduces issues with installation, and removes the worry of floor height build-up, which with overlay systems typically sits at around 15-35mm.

Overlay underfloor heating is becoming increasing popular because it’s cheaper than traditional underfloor heating system costs, and designed to simplify installation while maintaining strong performance.

And, much like a traditional system, “correctly installed and zoned overlay underfloor heating will result in reduced energy usage and a lower heating bill,” says Sam Jump, head of business development at Wunda Group. “Our low temperature water-based system allows for efficient heating where you want it, and when you want it, offering an energy-efficient heating solution.”

When should you use overlay underfloor heating?

Overlay underfloor heating is ideal for retrofits and renovations

Overlay underfloor heating is particularly well suited to retrofit and home renovation projects, where removing existing floors, or significantly increasing floor height isn’t practical. It works especially well when retrofitting underfloor heating into a property with existing concrete slabs, in kitchens and bathrooms where fast heat-up times are desirable, and in renovations that use hybrid heating systems.

Overlay systems also offer good compatibility with other modern heating systems such as heat pumps, explains Sam Jump.

“Air source heat pumps generally heat the water to about 35 - 50°C, so it’s important to make sure you are pairing your heat pump with a low temperature central heating system, such as overlay underfloor heating that can utilise lower temperature water, but still heat the home comfortably.”

Benefits of overlay underfloor heating

Overlay systems avoid the need for extensive structural work, and in most cases the process involves laying pre-routed boards onto a prepared, level floor, then pressing the pipework into the channels before connecting the system to a manifold.

“The thought of installing underfloor heating can seem daunting, especially doing it yourself. But with guided technical support, or the help of a professional, the system can be set up correctly for your home,” confirms Sam Jump. “What many might not realise is that the entire downstairs footprint of a three-bedroom home could be retro-fitted over the course of a weekend with minimal disruption.”

This reduced disruption is one of the system’s biggest advantages, particularly for homeowners living in the property during renovation.

Performance of overlay systems is also very good. Because the heating elements sit much closer to the floor surface than in traditional screeded systems, they respond far more quickly.

“Thanks to the rapid response of the system, heat is distributed evenly from across the entire floor surface, turning floors into giant radiators that start to heat rooms in just 30 minutes,” says Sam. “This provides a consistent, evenly spread heat, from the floor up.”

Suitable for a range of flooring types

Overlay systems are also designed to work with a wide range of flooring types. Tiles are particularly effective due to their ability to conduct heat efficiently, while laminate and engineered wood can also perform well if installed correctly.

Underfloor heating with carpet is possible, but the combined tog rating should typically remain below 2 to avoid restricting heat output.

Low-risk and low-maintenance

When installed correctly from the outset underfloor heating is widely regarded as a low-maintenance, long-term heating solution – with no joints under the floor from which water could leak and very little maintenance besides an occasional purge of the central manifold.

“Electric underfloor heating requires virtually no routine servicing, and while water-fed underfloor heating benefits from occasional checks such as reviewing manifold pressure levels, ensuring flow rates are balanced, and confirming there is no air within the system by bleeding underfloor heating, it is still minimal when compared to other systems,” says Jade Pederigan, retail marketing executive at Warmup.

Shop for suitable flooring

How much does overlay underfloor heating cost?

Costs for overlay underfloor heating will naturally vary depending on the system type, specification and installation method.

“For a water overlay system, material costs commonly start from around £40 - £60 per m² depending on the panel type and specification, with additional costs for the manifold and controls,” explains Jade Pederigan.

“Installation for a 40m² area typically takes 2 - 3 days with labour charged at around £200 - £300 per day, giving an estimated installation labour cost of £400 - £900.”

Could an electric underfloor heating system be cheaper?

Electric underfloor heating systems, with entry-level heating elements can start from around £15 per m². However a full specification including insulation boards and a smart thermostat will increase overall material costs. The biggest opportunity for saving money when installing overlay underfloor heating comes from DIY installation.

“You can reduce labour costs considerably if you are confident preparing the subfloor and laying panels or membranes,” says Jade Pederigan. “However, electrical connections, testing and commissioning must always be completed by qualified professionals to ensure safe operation and warranty protection.”

FAQ

Can you use it in conjunction with radiators?

In short, yes. Homeowners can choose to install underfloor heating on the ground floor while retaining radiators upstairs. This can be even more beneficial when combined with renewable heating.

“Water overlay UFH works particularly effectively with air source and ground source heat pumps, as both technologies operate at lower flow temperatures (typically 30 - 40°C). This improves overall system efficiency and can reduce running costs compared to traditional radiator-only setups,” says Jade Pederigan.

Overlay underfloor heating removes many of the barriers associated with traditional underfloor heating making it a practical option for a wide range of renovation projects.

With minimal disruption, fast response times, compatibility with modern renewable and hybrid heating systems, and low maintenance requirements, overlay systems offer homeowners a way to significantly upgrade their heating system, without the need for major structural work.

For more advice on using and installing underfloor heating, make sure you know the main underfloor heating mistakes to avoid, and find out what is the optimum temperature for underfloor heating.

Octopus Energy has claimed that heat pumps are now cheaper to run than gas boilers, backed by new data from thousands of UK homes.

The company’s newly launched performance dashboard suggests many households could save around £200 a year by switching.

But while the figures point to growing momentum behind low-carbon heating, wider evidence shows the reality may depend heavily on the home, tariff, and system design.

What Octopus is claiming

Octopus Energy says its new Cosy Heat Pump Fleet Performance Dashboard provides “real-world” evidence that heat pumps are already beating gas boilers on cost.

The tool aggregates anonymised data from thousands of systems installed across Britain, offering live insights into efficiency and running costs.

According to the company’s data, around 80% of its Cosy Octopus heat pump customers paid less to heat their homes than they would with a gas boiler over the past year.

Customers on its dedicated tariff reportedly saved an average of £219 per year, while the systems delivered over 4 units of heat for every unit of electricity used (COP ~4.1), far higher than the roughly 85% efficiency of a typical gas boiler.

Octopus Energy CEO Greg Jackson said the data shows heat pumps can “beat the boiler in efficiency” and reduce bills, adding that the dashboard is intended to demonstrate this “in perpetuity” using real household data.

What other data suggests

While heat pumps are widely recognised as more efficient than gas boilers, the cost comparison is less clear-cut across the wider market.

Independent sources, including the Energy Saving Trust, show that the cost of running a heat pump versus a gas boiler still varies widely and isn’t guaranteed to be cheaper in every household.

The Energy Saving Trust notes that electricity in the UK typically costs around four times more per unit than gas, which can erode some of the efficiency advantage of heat pumps - especially on standard tariffs.

Based on recent estimates, a typical air‑source heat pump in an average three‑bedroom semi might cost £900–£1,200 a year to run, compared with £1,400–£1,800 for a conventional gas boiler when using standard energy prices; this suggests savings can arise in some cases, but are not automatic.

The same Energy Saving Trust guidance also emphasises that whether a heat pump delivers lower bills depends on several factors, including how well‑insulated the home is, whether the system is properly designed and controlled, and the tariff being used. They point out that heat pumps generally cost slightly more to run than new gas and oil boilers on typical electricity prices, even though they are more efficient overall.

Independent comparisons also show that using specialist electricity tariffs - similar to those promoted by Octopus, can make heat pumps significantly cheaper to operate, tipping the balance in their favour. These findings underline that running cost outcomes depend heavily on electricity price, tariff structure, energy efficiency of the home, and heat pump performance, rather than heat pumps inherently costing less in all circumstances.

The verdict: It depends

Octopus Energy’s data adds to growing evidence that heat pumps can be cheaper to run in the right conditions, particularly in well-insulated homes using optimised tariffs.

However, the broader picture suggests costs still vary widely from home to home. Factors such as insulation, installation quality, heating system design, and energy tariffs all play a major role in determining whether savings are realised.

So if you're still deciding whether heat pumps are worth it, you now know heat pumps may now be cheaper than gas in some cases, but not all, and careful design and specification remain key.

Most houses, particularly those built some time ago, throw up a few niggles from time to time – damp, draughts, creaky floorboards and so on. While some are pretty harmless, if you've found cold spots on internal walls within your home, you definitely need to pay attention.

"Cold spots are more than just inconvenient; they’re often a sign of underlying problems in your building’s thermal envelope – the barrier that separates your indoor space from the outside environment," explains Ryan Jones, head of testing at Building Energy Experts.

To help you get to the bottom of why cold spots might be appearing and what to do about it, we reached out to the experts – thankfully there are steps you can take to rectify the problem once and for all.

What do cold spots on walls mean?

If you have stumbled across a cold patch (or more than one), it is important to understand what caused it.

"A cold patch on a wall means that part of the building is losing heat faster than the rest," picks up Michael Zohouri, founder at Pyramid Eco. "That’s down to poor insulation or thermal bridging, where heat escapes more easily through certain parts of the wall.

"It’s something you see quite often in older properties, especially around windows, on external walls and in corners of rooms," continues Michael. "In some cases it’s just an area where insulation is missing or thinner than it should be."

Ryan Jones reveals a few more causes of cold spots. "Moisture build-up can compromise insulation, structural issues can create thermal bridges (areas where heat transfers more readily) and plumbing issues, such as leaking pipes behind walls or under floors, can introduce cold water into the space."

How do you find cold spots on walls?

Unless you are happy to walk around your whole house feeling every inch of the walls for cold spots, these can sometimes go undetected. Thankfully, there are other ways of finding them, including looking into the various building surveys available to homeowners.

"You don’t need to rely on guesswork to identify these problem areas," says Ryan Jones. "There are home energy survey methods to identify weaknesses in your building envelope. For example, our thermal imaging survey can detect temperature variations, highlighting cold spots and underlying issues, and our air tightness test measures uncontrolled air leakage, identifying draughts and other energy-wasting gaps in your building."

Are cold spots on walls something to worry about?

Clearly, then, cold spots on walls are an indication that something is not quite right – but what can happen if you simply ignore them?

"Ignoring these issues can lead to drafts and uneven temperatures," warns Ryan Jones. "Cold spots disrupt the overall heating and cooling efficiency, leading to uncomfortable drafts and uneven temperatures. Your HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) systems have to work overtime to combat heat loss, driving up your energy costs. Cold spots also lead to condensation, creating ideal conditions for mould."

Michael Zohouri agrees that to turn a blind eye to cold spots is a mistake.

"The biggest risk is mould," warns Michael. "Once condensation starts forming regularly on a cold patch, mould spores can take hold quite quickly. It can also mean higher heating bills. If part of the building envelope is losing heat, your heating system has to work harder to keep the room comfortable."

How do you get rid of cold spots on walls?

No doubt once you have discovered any cold spots you will be pretty keen to deal with them before they start causing you too many issues.

"The solution depends on the cause of the problem," picks up Michael Zohouri. "The first thing I would check is insulation. You might find there is no insulation or only a thin layer that’s degraded. Loft insulation, cavity wall insulation or insulated plasterboard can all help raise the surface temperature of the wall.

"Air leaks can also cause cold spots," continues Michael. "Check for any gaps around windows or pipework that could be allowing cold air into the structure. Sealing those gaps can reduce cold patches.

"In some cases your furniture placement in the room could be the problem," adds Michael. "So, if there’s a large wardrobe or a sofa pushed up against an external wall it stops air circulating. That keeps the area colder increases condensation risk. Leaving a small gap behind furniture helps air move around the wall."

FAQs

How do you check wall insulation?

A well-insulated home is far less likely to suffer from cold spots and subsequent condensation and mould problems, but it can be hard to know what your insulation levels are like, particularly in older properties.

If your home was built after 1920 it is likely to have cavity walls which will hopefully be insulated. You can also get an idea of whether your home has cavity walls by measuring the depth of a wall by a window or door – if it is over 260mm it will probably have a cavity. Be on the lookout for small boreholes in the external brickwork too as these are a good indicator that cavity wall insulation will have been fitted at some point.

Of course, if your home has solid walls things get a little tricky. Unless you want to add internal wall insulation, which means losing some floor space, your other option is to add external wall insulation which is where things can get a little pricey as you will need to reclad the exterior of your home.

DIY testing for insulation is possible using something like this Endoscope Inspection Camera from Amazon. However, for a more accurate picture of your home's insulation, a professional inspection is recommended.

If you have discovered mould has already taken hold due the cold spots in your home, don't panic. In many cases mould removal can be carried out on a DIY basis – the key is to treat it as soon as it appears.

Walk into a basement and you’ll probably feel a familiar chill. Not a draught exactly, but a cool and often dank feeling, despite the heating being on full. This feeling is usually down to the surface temperature of the basement and a sign that it would benefit from being insulated.

Insulating a building below ground is fundamentally different from insulating a building above it. Basement walls and floors are in constant contact with the ground, which keeps them relatively cool all year round. Without proper insulation, the walls and floors of your basement design will draw heat out of a room, resulting in chilly surfaces, surface condensation and higher heating bills.

Most basements also experience some level of moisture from the surrounding ground. In the UK, where groundwater levels can be high and heavy rainfall is common, modern basement design often assumes that some water will eventually find its way through. Cavity drain membranes and sump pumps are therefore a common feature.

With all this in mind, insulating a basement requires a well thought through strategy that deals with the walls and floors using materials that can either tolerate damp conditions or be protected from moisture completely.

Insulating basement walls

When it comes to thermal comfort below ground, the walls tend to do most of the heavy lifting. They form the largest surface area, which means they’re also the biggest potential route for heat loss.

Part L of the Building Regulations sets the energy performance standards, including walls and floors. On a new-build project, while the target U value is around 0.18mW/m²K the actual performance is considered as part of the overall energy strategy and within the SAP calculation for the building.

In basement conversions the situation is slightly different. Space is often limited and the structure already exists, which means achieving the same insulation thickness as an above-ground wall is not always possible. In my experience building control officers tend to take a pragmatic view in these situations. They recognise the constraints and usually look for reasonable improvement somewhere around 0.30 W/m²K, provided there’s no condensation risk.

Insulating a basement floor

As with basement walls, a concrete slab sitting directly on the ground will steadily conduct heat away from the room if it isn’t insulated. This creates cold surfaces and increases the amount of heating needed to keep the room warm.

When considering your basement conversion ideas, bear in mind that the existing slab becomes a renovated thermal element once insulation and a new floor build-up are installed. This means building control will normally expect the upgraded floor to have a U value of 0.25 W/m²K.

Floor insulation can be installed below the slab, above it, or occasionally in both positions depending on the waterproofing strategy. In basement conversions insulation is usually added above the existing concrete slab, which creates a few practical challenges. Adding rigid insulation boards and a screed raises the finished floor level, which reduces headroom. Where headroom is tight, this can require adjustment of stair risers and door heads, which is often easier said than done.

What to consider before installing insulation

Meeting Part L requirements in a basement isn’t just about achieving a particular U-value. What building control officers usually want to see is a sensible insulation strategy that works alongside waterproofing and ventilation systems.

1. Ventilation

Basements are naturally cooler environments and warm air from the upper floors often drifts downwards carrying moisture with it. If that air reaches a cold surface it will condense. This is where ventilation becomes important.

As insulation levels improve, uncontrolled air leakage reduces so a basement will become more airtight. Whilst this is good for energy efficiency, it also means ventilation systems are required, especially in basement bathrooms, utility rooms or gyms.

2. Waterproofing

No insulation system will work properly if the structure itself is damp, so waterproofing is a critical starting point in any basement design and insulation strategy.

In the UK, three main approaches are used. Barrier protection relies on external tanking to keep water out entirely. Integral protection uses waterproof concrete that limits water penetration. Drained protection takes a different approach, using cavity membranes and sump pumps to manage water that enters the structure. In practice, many basements combine more than one method for added security.

Building control officers will ask questions when they see insulation being installed against basement structures that haven’t been adequately protected. So, always make sure the insulation system is properly designed and follow it to the letter.

Insulating a basement checklist

Whilst the main focus when insulating a basement are the walls and floor, the smaller details can have just as much impact so mustn’t be overlooked.

1. Making your insulation work with basement drainage

Many modern basements use what’s known as a Type C drained protection system. A cavity membrane is fixed to the inside face of the structural wall, creating a small drainage space. Any moisture that penetrates the structure is directed down the membrane into perimeter channels and then into a sump pump. The insulation and wall lining are then installed on the room side of this system. This is where things need to be thought through carefully. The entire system relies on water being able to move freely down the wall and away from the structure. Insulation must therefore never block the drainage path behind the membrane or be allowed to get wet. Fixings that pass through the membrane and the insulation therefore need to be properly sealed.

2. Avoiding thermal bridging with your insulation

Thermal bridging is an area where basement projects often run into trouble. Junctions between the wall and floor slab, structural beams and stair openings can all become weak points if insulation isn’t continuous. Get this wrong and small mistakes quickly become condensation problems.

3. Tackling pipes in a basement

Cold water pipes running through a basement are very prone to condensation when warm air meets the cooler pipe surface. Over time this moisture will soak into plasterboard, timber or insulation, becoming a surprisingly persistent damp problem. Basements are often used to house heating equipment, so insulating these pipes and the room properly helps prevent both heat loss and reduces condensation risk.

4. Insulating suspended timber floors

In older houses where a suspended timber floor sits above a cellar, insulation might be needed around the perimeter of the floor joists. Mineral wool or rigid boards can usually be installed here but make sure that the ventilation paths are maintained. Blocking air bricks in an attempt to make the floor warmer can trap moisture, eventually leading to timber decay.

Choosing the right basement insulation materials

Choosing insulation for a basement is about more than simply achieving a good U-value. Below ground, materials are working in a cooler, more humid environment, with a greater risk of moisture so durability matters just as much.

• Rigid PIR boards are commonly used to insulate basements. They offer a high thermal performance for their thickness, with a typical thermal conductivity around 0.022 W/mK. This allows good U-values to be achieved without using excessive thickness, often important in basement conversions where headroom is already limited. In new build basements PIR is commonly installed either as internal wall insulation over cavity drain membranes or within insulated floor build-ups above the slab. The key limitation however is moisture. PIR performs very well when dry but is not designed to sit in damp conditions, so must always sit on the warm side of the waterproofing system.
• Extruded polystyrene – XPS – is often chosen where there is a greater risk of damp. Its thermal conductivity is slightly lower performing than PIR, typically around 0.030 to 0.034 W/mK, but it has a closed-cell structure that absorbs very little water. This insulation board is well suited for basement floors and areas close to drainage channels where occasional moisture may occur. In new build basements it’s sometimes used beneath the slab or externally against retaining walls where its compressive strength and moisture resistance are particularly useful.
• Mineral wool tends to appear in basement projects within framed internal wall systems or suspended timber floors above cellar spaces. Its thermal conductivity is typically around 0.034–0.037 W/mK. Thermally it performs perfectly well, but moisture is its weakness. Once saturated, mineral wool insulation loses much of its insulating performance and can slump. For that reason it’s best kept entirely separate from any damp structural surfaces.
• Natural eco insulation materials such as wood fibre boards are occasionally proposed because they can buffer small amounts of moisture. In above-ground walls that behaviour can be helpful, but basements are a different environment. In my experience these materials can work, but only where the waterproofing strategy is exceptionally reliable and the internal humidity is carefully managed.
• On new build projects, insulated concrete formwork offers another route altogether. Here the EPS insulation typically has a conductivity around 0.032–0.036 W/mK, and forms part of the permanent shuttering for the concrete wall. Thermally this can work very well because the insulation is continuous, but junctions shouldn’t be overlooked. Where the wall meets the slab, stair structures or upper floors, maintaining insulation continuity is what prevents cold bridges forming later on.

Shop basement insulation

Insulating a basement is all about getting the detail right. Below ground, careful detailing isn’t optional, It’s what separates a cold, damp cellar from a genuinely valuable part of the home. Basements are systems, so insulation products must work alongside the waterproofing and ventilation systems rather than against them.

By using the most appropriate insulation products in the right place, a well-insulated basement stops feeling like a compromise and starts to feel just like any other room in the house – warm, comfortable and free from the musty chill that older cellars are known for.

Let's face it, there is never a good time for your boiler to stop working – after all, even if you don't need your central heating running at full blast, you are still likely to need hot water.

"Unexpected boiler problems or malfunctions are never fun," picks up Gordon Chalk, MD at Next Level Underfloor Heating and Screed Solutions LTD. "Fortunately, boilers typically present obvious warning indications of danger. Early detection of these signs may prevent a chilly house and save money on repairs."

Even though temperatures might be on the rise, understanding the signs that can point to an imminent boiler breakdown is the best way to stay one step ahead – here's what to be on the lookout for.

1. You hear strange noises coming from your boiler

This is such an easy one to pick up on as it requires no visual inspection – simply be aware of any strange noises coming from your boiler and central heating system.

“If your central heating is making loud banging noises, this is often a sign of low pressure in your boiler," picks up Ian Palmer-Smith, supplier and heating service director at Domestic & General Domestic & General. "Luckily, this is a fairly common issue that is easy to tackle. You’ll need to check the pressure gauge on your boiler control panel. If this reads below 1 bar, increase it slightly to 1.5-2. If the pressure is any less than 1 bar it could mean less heat being transferred to the areas in your home where it’s needed. As a general rule, anywhere between 1.5-2 is usually the sweet spot.”

There are other sounds to take note of too, as Gordon Chalk explains. "Gurgling may indicate air in the system or low water pressure, while banging may indicate limescale development in the heat exchanger, reducing water flow," continues Gordon. "Whistling or 'kettling' indicates limescale or detritus.

"A professional power flush to clear sludge and limescale may be required for banging or kettling," adds Gordon. "While not this is not a DIY job, detecting the sound fast enables Gas Safe engineers to be called before serious harm occurs."

2. The pressure keeps dropping on your boiler

Always keep an eye on your boiler's pressure guauge – it is a great indicator of any potential issues. You can normally find this on the front of your boiler. It may have green and red sections that show when the pressure is too low, too high or spot on.

"A clear warning indication is boiler pressure dropping," says Gordon Chalk. "Compound pressure decreases on the boiler's pressure gauge indicate a problem. An issue exists if the pressure gauge needle repeatedly drops below 1 bar, necessitating frequent repressurising.

"To repressurise their boiler quickly, homeowners can consult its handbook for filling loop instructions," continues Gordon. "Having to repressurise more than once a month signals a system leak or a malfunctioning pressure release valve. You should call a Gas Safe professional to find and fix the leak or replace the broken part before it causes serious water damage or boiler failure."

3. Your boiler is randomly turning on and off

Noticed your radiators have suddenly stopped working or that your hot water hasn't heated up? If your boiler keeps suddenly turning on and off, both could happen – and this could be an indication of a few tweaks being required.

“If you’re noticing your boiler is turning on or off sporadically throughout the day, you may need to simply adjust your timer settings using your boiler manual for help," points out Ian Palmer-Smith. "Also, check that the central heating dial is turned up too in case this has been accidentally knocked. Additionally, double check your thermostat settings. If temperatures in the home are set lower than 20 degrees, your boiler may not come on so increase the temperature slightly and you should notice better performance.”

However, this could also point to some other, more serious issues, according to Gordon Chalk.

"Unexpected boiler shutdowns and error codes can indicate a safety lockout due to a problem," says Gordon. "This causes the boiler to often shut down and show a problem code on its digital display, needing repeated resets. A reset may fix a brief malfunction, but recurrent lockouts indicate a problem with water pressure, a clogged flue, or a defective thermostat or pump. Recording the fault code and notifying a Gas Safe engineer promptly is critical. Ignoring repeated lockouts can lead to boiler failure, which might be costly to fix."

4. A red light has appeared on your boiler

Red lights are rarely a good sign – so if you see one appear, be that on a combi boiler or a different type of system, take heed.

"If you’ve noticed a red light appear on your boiler, this usually signals an error with the appliance – but this typically only requires a quick reset," reassures Ian Palmer-Smith. "The boiler reset button should be on the front panel and easy to identify.

"If the error persists, try turning the appliance off and on," continues Ian. "If this still continues, reach out to an engineer who will check if there is a bigger underlying problem. For households with boiler cover, inspecting your boiler is also a good opportunity to check what your policy includes and ensure your annual service is booked in.”

5. You see sooty black marks appearing

If you notice even the faintest of sooty black marks appearing on or around your boiler, you need to take action fast – this indicates a problem that could potentially be very dangerous.

“Sooty black marks on your boiler may indicate the start of a serious combustion problem, which can be highly dangerous if left untreated, and most certainly indicate that your boiler is heading for a breakdown," says Martin Garbutt, head of technical governance at Ding. "If you detect such marks, contact a Gas Safe Registered engineer as soon as possible.”

Sooty marks can mean your boiler is not burning fuel properly which can, in turn, lead to carbon monoxide leaking into your home. Turn your boiler off immediately, open windows for ventilation and call a Gas Safe registered engineer or, if your boiler is oil, a qualified technician.

6. A strange smell is detected and the pilot light colour changes

Another potentially very serious issue here – be alert to odours and keep your eye on the colour of your boiler's pilot light.

"A weird scent or pilot light colour shift are major warnings, especially for gas boilers," says Gordon Chalk. "A gas leak is indicated by a strong, peculiar smell like rotten eggs or sulphur, and an orange or yellow pilot light indicates incomplete combustion.

"If a gas smell is detected, the gas supply must be turned off, windows and doors opened, the property vacated and the gas emergency service provider (National Gas Emergency Service in the UK) and a Gas Safe engineer called from a safe distance without electrical switches," continues Gordon. "An orange or yellow pilot light may create carbon monoxide, requiring rapid Gas Safe engineer evaluation and repair – maybe boiler replacement. Do not delay or try to DIY fix these difficulties."

7. The boiler isn't firing up as it should

And, finally, if you find that your boiler just isn't firing up as it should, particularly if the weather has been cold, there could be an issue with the pipes freezing.

“A boiler that isn’t firing up as expected, or making gurgling noises when doing so, can be a sign of frozen condensate pipes," explains Ian Palmer-Smith. "This will only occur if the weather is particularly cold, usually in the peak winter months. If this is the case, the best approach is to carefully attempt to warm the pipes back up by applying a hot water bottle directly to them.”

Other techniques that can work well is to wrap warm towels around the pipes or to use a hairdryer on a low setting.

FAQs

How can you prevent a boiler breakdown?

In an ideal world, your boiler would never break down or cause you issues. Along with familiarising yourself with the signs a problem is brewing, what else can you do to keep it running in peak condition and ensure you don't have to face new boiler costs?

"Having an annual boiler check should help to prevent any issues with the appliance," says Ian Palmer-Smith.

"Your boiler should be serviced once a year for safety, economy, and to keep your guarantee current," adds Gordon Chalk. "With this regular check-up, experienced engineers can find and fix small problems before they get worse and cost a lot to fix. It also keeps the boiler running as cleanly and efficiently as possible, which is good for the environment and your wallet."

While these are the most common and obvious signs something could be wrong with your boiler, it really does pay to make sure you understand what the different types of boiler available are – all have different maintenance requirements and operating systems. It will also help when it comes to choosing a new model.

Warm, sheltered and undisturbed, the insulation in your home makes the perfect nesting spot for pests such as mice, rats, and wasps – none of which you'd particularly want in your loft.

Not only can these pesky creatures cause damage to your insulation, decreasing its effectiveness, but they may also leave droppings and urine behind, which can pose a serious health risk.

To find out the best ways to prevent them from settling in your insulation – and how these tiny creatures get there to begin with – I spoke with three pest control experts to hear their advice.

How do you stop pests in insulation?

 1. Block the entry points

The best way to stop pests from nesting in your insulation is by blocking off access points. To do so, Daniel Steward, Managing Director at Shield Pest Control, recommends inspecting for gaps around fascia and soffit boards, vents, pipe entry points and cable holes – all of which are common routes into insulated areas.

"Any damage to roofing materials should be repaired promptly and vents can be covered with fine mesh to prevent entry while still allowing airflow," he adds.

2. Moisture control

As well as blocking entry points, Daniel also advises keeping moisture levels low in your home by fixing leaks promptly, reducing condensation, and maintaining good ventilation – a damp loft is a golden opportunity in the eyes of a pest.

You can solve most of these problems by ensuring your home is fitted with extractor fans in wet rooms and investing in one of the best dehumidifiers (though this won't be suitable for use inside an unconverted loft). You can check your home's humidity levels using a hygrometer.

3. Keep your loft space tidy

By keeping your loft space clean, tidy, and free from clutter, you'll reduce the chances of rodents (such as mice) settling in, as they will have fewer sheltered spots to choose from, explains Daniel.

4. Remove food sources

One of the fastest ways to attract pests into your home is by leaving out potential food sources. Things like leaving wood waste outside your property and using loose lids on your bins are big no-nos and are likely to attract a long list of unwanted creatures.

The same applies to your garden, too. You should avoid leaving bird seed too close to your property or having overhanging branches close to your roofline, warns Daniel.

5. Watch for early signs

Watch out for warning signs such as scratching and scurrying noises, droppings, chewed wiring and nesting material, all of which could point to an infestation in your insulation. The sooner you find out and can take action, the better.

"If pests have already entered the insulation, acting quickly is important, as contaminated insulation may need to be professionally removed and replaced to fully resolve the issue and prevent further spread within the property," says Daniel.

"In these cases, it’s always advisable to contact a professional pest control company and we can assess the situation, safely remove the infestation and recommend proofing measures to help prevent further damage to the home."

What causes pests in insulation?

We now know how to prevent pests in our insulation, but what actually causes them?

"Pests are attracted to any place that provides shelter and a food source, and will climb pipes, wiring, trees etc. to find an entry point – particularly in insulated lofts," says Darren Backhouse, Partner at MJ Backhouse Pest Control.

"We’ve seen this happen before through roof damage or gaps in a property exterior that let mice, rats or even squirrels in. We’ve also dealt with rats in cavity walls where they used the insulation for nesting."

Tony King, pest control expert at The Pied Piper, adds that the quiet, dark and undisturbed nature of a loft makes it the perfect place for pests to breed and raise their young. Homes with small entry points near the roofline, vents, or soffits offer easy access.

What are the signs of pests in insulation?

According to Daniel Steward, these are the the main signs of a pest infestation such as squirrels in the attic:

1. You can hear scratching or scurrying noises
2. You can see droppings and urine
3. You notice chewed wiring and nesting material

To recap, the easiest way to prevent pests in your insulation is by blocking the access points and making it as unhabitable as possible.

For more pest control advice, read our guide on how to deter wasps and how to get rid of rats in your home.

Homeowners across England are facing difficulties with spray foam insulation installed in their roofs, with some struggling to sell or remortgage properties as a result.

The insulation, installed as part of the government-funded Green Homes Improvement Scheme (GBIS) and ECO4 energy-efficiency schemes, can be safe when correctly fitted, but faulty installations can cause serious problems.

The government has confirmed that it will not provide direct financial assistance for removal, leaving homeowners to rely on installers, guarantees or dispute resolution schemes.

Problems with spray foam insulation

Spray foam insulation is designed to improve a home’s energy efficiency by sealing gaps and reducing heat loss. However, when installed incorrectly, it can trap moisture, cause condensation, and lead to timber decay in roof structures.

These issues have created mortgage and resale problems, with research from the HomeOwners Alliance showing only 25% of mortgage lenders and no equity release providers willing to lend on affected properties.

Costs for removal can also be high – Checkatrade estimates around £3,200 for a typical three-bedroom detached house.

It is important to note that not all spray foam is problematic. Properly installed insulation, following professional standards and product certifications, generally does not pose these risks. The issues primarily arise from faulty or non-compliant installations.

Government schemes and official guidance

The spray foam insulation in question was often installed through GBIS and ECO4, which were government-backed schemes providing financial support for energy-efficiency upgrades.

According to the UK government website, consumers affected by faulty installations are entitled to remediation by the original installer or via an insurance-backed guarantee, but the government will not provide direct financial assistance for removal.

Previous guidance also stresses that homeowners should:

• Keep paperwork from their installation, including test certificates from bodies like the British Board of Agrément (BBA).
• Consult accredited surveyors and professionals to assess whether remedial action is necessary.

This approach aims to ensure that homeowners receive fixes through responsible parties rather than taxpayer-funded programs.

Government response to our enquiry

In a response to an enquiry, officials clarified: “Only a small number of households had spray foam installed through ECO or GBIS. Any household with any measure fitted under GBIS or ECO schemes is entitled to remediation for any non-compliant work (including any spray foam) through the original installer."

They continued: "All measures must have a guarantee, although the length of these guarantees varies by measure and policy. Consumers are encouraged to use certification bodies and TrustMark existing complaints processes, should they need to.”

In other words, the government will not pay for removal, but homeowners with faulty spray foam can pursue remediation via the installer or their insurance-backed guarantee.

Consumer groups, however, say more needs to be done to address the financial impact on homeowners. Paula Higgins, Chief Executive of the HomeOwners Alliance, said: “The ECO4 grant and Great British Insulation Scheme (GBIS) both fund the installation of spray foam to eligible households. It can’t be that homeowners convinced to install spray foam at a significant personal financial cost, and in many cases with help of government grants, are now faced with bills for hundreds if not thousands of pounds to remove the product – far exceeding the original installation costs.”

She added that the government also needs to act on rogue removal firms targeting vulnerable homeowners: “We also call on the government’s assistance to stamp out the rogue spray foam removal companies who are scaring homeowners to remove the insulation and are causing even further damage to their homes.”

For now, homeowners with problematic spray foam face costly removals, difficulties remortgaging, potential condensation issues, and no direct government funding – even though the installations were encouraged through government schemes.

Spring has sprung, or is, at the very least, in the process of springing. For many people this will cheer their spirits – the promise of warmer weather, longer days, blossom blooming, lambs frolicking... In our household, however, this new season brings something else – arguments about whether or not the central heating should still be on.

In all honesty, the central heating is one of the main causes of domestic disputes here. I live in an Edwardian cottage that is somehow perpetually cold, even in the middle of summer. If I had my way, the heating would be on pretty much permanently but, alas, the heating bills that would follow rule this out.

If, like me, you live with someone who is happy to just 'layer up' and are wondering how to navigate this time of fluctuating temperatures in terms of running your central heating I have been doing some investigating on your behalf. I asked a range of experts when the very best time to turn your central heating off at this time of year is to put an end to the thermostat battles.

When is the best time to turn off your central heating after winter?

Now that things are feeling a little less arctic, many people will be wondering whether they should be turning off their central heating – but when is the best time to do this?

"There are no strict rules for when homeowners should turn their heating off, although most people tend to do so around mid-April, once spring temperatures have started to increase and stabilise," advises Martin Garbutt, head of technical governance at home services platform Ding.

According to the experts I spoke to, rather than being a set date when everyone should shut down their central heating, it is more a case of being aware of how you home feels, how your boiler is running and the temperatures around you. Here are the three signs they said to look out for that indicate its time to turn off the heating and start saving energy.

1. Outside temperatures are hotting up

One obvious sign that central heating season is over is when temperatures start rising outside.

"I’d say when it’s consistently reaching around 14 to 15°C during the day you can probably look at turning it off," says Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables. "At that point most homes hold enough warmth naturally and the heating doesn’t need to run continuously."

That said, Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco, is also keen to point out the importance of looking at how you are using your heating right now.

"I would look at how often the system is actually running. By March or April, many types of boilers are still programmed with winter schedules that run several hours a day even though the house no longer needs that much heat," explains Michael. "In winter, many homes run heating cycles morning, afternoon and evening. In spring, you can normally remove the daytime cycle completely."

2. Your indoor temperatures are consistently warmer

This one might sound obvious, but it really is important to take a look at the ambient temperature inside your home if you want to gauge whether or not your central heating is still needed.

"What really matters is the indoor temperature and how well the house retains heat," says Martyn Fowler. "If the house is staying around 18°C without the heating running during the day, that’s a good sign you can begin reducing usage.

"Homes with good insulation will reach that point earlier than older or poorly insulated properties," points out Martyn.

"It’s also worth checking how quickly your home cools down overnight," adds Michael Zohouri. "If the indoor temperature only drops a couple of degrees by morning, that usually means the building is holding heat well and you can reduce heating hours further."

3. The heating isn't coming on during the day

If your central heating system runs on a thermostat, it is usually simple to see whether or not it needs to be on any longer.

"I encourage homeowners to pay attention to how often the boiler actually fires during the day," says Michael Zohouri. "If it hasn’t needed to come on for several afternoons in a row, that’s usually a clear sign the heating schedule can be cut back again."

Martyn Fowler agrees. "One simple sign is when the heating hasn’t turned on for several days in a row even though it’s still programmed. That usually means the house is staying warm enough on its own," says Martyn.

"The key is to let the thermostat do the work," he continues. "Set a sensible target ambient temperature and let the heating only come on when the house actually needs it. Many homes waste energy in spring simply because the winter schedule is still running even though the weather has improved."

What is the most efficient way to run your heating in spring?

The UK weather is notoriously unreliable meaning that even when spring arrives, just because we might enjoy glorious sun and warmer temperatures for a week, there is no guarantee that we won't be back to gloomy skies and a distinct chill in the air the next – so what is the most efficient way to use central heating in the UK in the springtime?

"Spring is really about tapering heating down gradually," advises Michael Zohouri. "Adjust the timer, shorten the heating cycles and let the house respond to the milder weather rather than keeping the winter settings running.

Martyn Fowler agrees. "Spring is about adjusting the schedule rather than switching the heating off completely. Instead of running the system throughout the day like in winter, it’s more efficient to use shorter heating periods," says Martyn. "A short run in the morning can take the chill out of the house, and sometimes a quick boost in the evening is enough if temperatures drop again."

"A smart thermostat can make it easier to deal with temperature fluctuations, as this can auto-adjust your heating based on different environmental factors and measured temperatures," points out Martin Garbutt. “If you pre-program what temperature you’d like the home to be, whenever it dips below that, the heating will auto-turn on. These settings can often be controlled by your smartphone, allowing you to regulate your home’s temperature wherever you are.

“In the warmer summer months, lowering a boiler’s flow temperature is a simple change that could help reduce energy bill costs by up to £65," adds Martin. "To do this, reduce the flow temperature using the buttons or dial on the control panel. If it’s not clear from looking at your boiler, check your manual for how to do this."

FAQS

How should you maintain your heating system over summer?

Once your heating is well and truly no longer needed, don't just forget about it. You need to ensure that when you do need it again, it won't let you down.

"The warmer months are a great time to make sure everything is working properly," explains Martin Garbutt. "Start by assessing your radiator's efficiency by checking for any cold spots at the top of the radiator. This means that air has collected in the radiator, preventing hot water from circulating and heating. This is when bleeding a radiator is required.

“The warmer spring and summer periods are usually the best time to have your boiler serviced, as demand for engineers tends to be lower," adds Martin. "This also means that any issues can be fixed while the use of the heating is low.”

If you are keen to turn off your central heating but are still feeling the cold at certain times of the day, it is well worth looking at other types of heat emitters to help bridge the gap. Oil-filled radiators and other types of electric heater can really come in handy for a quick heat boost.

British Gas has been forced to withdraw a social media advert promoting heat pumps after regulators ruled the potential savings claim was misleading.

The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) said the advert suggested households could cut their energy bills by up to £546, but evidence showed only a minority of customers achieved that level of saving.

The watchdog concluded the promotion failed to include important information explaining how the figure was calculated and ordered them to take it down.

What the advert said

The advert, which appeared on multiple social media platforms in May 2025, featured a person standing next to a heat pump with text over the image stating: “Go greener and lower your bills. Save up to £546 with a heat pump and our exclusive tariff.”

Additional wording encouraged households to “Switch to a heat pump and start saving with British Gas.” The caption underneath added: “Upgrade to a low-carbon heat pump, and you could save up to £546. Savings based on year 1. T&Cs apply.”

British Gas said the figure came from modelling that estimated potential energy bill savings for a customer replacing an end-of-life gas boiler with an air-source heat pump and signing up to the company’s dedicated heat pump tariff.

What the watchdog found

The ASA investigated whether the £546 saving claim could be supported and whether the advert left out key details.

According to the regulator, modelling provided by British Gas showed only 34% of 194 customers achieved the advertised saving, while some households were expected to see their bills increase after switching.

The watchdog also said the advert did not clearly explain the assumptions used to calculate the savings, including factors such as household energy use, boiler efficiency and the cost of switching from gas to a heat pump.

Because this information was not included, the ASA concluded the advert omitted material information and exaggerated the likelihood of achieving the advertised saving, breaching advertising rules on misleading claims and substantiation.

British Gas response

British Gas said the £546 figure was presented as an “up to” saving because it believed a significant proportion of consumers could achieve that level of benefit. The company also argued that space limitations in the advert meant it could not include full details explaining the calculation.

However, the ASA rejected this argument and ruled that the advert must not appear again in the form investigated. The regulator also told the company to ensure future savings claims are backed by clear evidence and accompanied by sufficient information so consumers can properly understand how the figures are calculated.

A spokesperson for British Gas said the company was disappointed with the decision but would continue helping customers make informed choices about low-carbon heating options.

A new report has delivered a stark verdict on the government’s flagship home insulation schemes, calling the collapse of the ECO4 and Great British Insulation Scheme a “wake‑up call” for retrofit policy.

It says past programmes focused too narrowly on emissions targets while failing to fix basic home repair issues, leaving many households cold, damp and with rising bills.

The authors argue that without major changes, future retrofit programmes risk repeating the same mistakes and continuing to miss the homes that need help most.

Damning findings from Government schemes

The report – released this week by the Centre for Housing and Place – paints a critical picture of the Energy Company Obligation 4 (ECO4) and the Great British Insulation Scheme, both of which were terminated after widespread problems and poor outcomes.

According to the report, these schemes often failed to address fundamental repair needs before installing energy efficiency measures, leading in many cases to damp, mould and other issues that undermined the intended benefits. The report called the delivery model “inadequate” and says the heavy reliance on private contractors incentivised cutting corners rather than quality work.

Researchers also note that while both programmes aimed to reduce carbon emissions and help households cut energy costs, too many homes, particularly in older and underserved communities, were excluded because they required more complex repair work before retrofit.

With rising energy bills continuing to affect millions of families, the report warns that this gap has left too many vulnerable households behind.

Calls for a new framework

In place of the old schemes, the report suggests a radical shift toward area‑based and neighbourhood‑level programmes that tackle both energy efficiency and basic home repairs together.

Rather than focusing solely on heat pumps, insulation or solar panels, the authors argue that retrofit policy must be grounded in ensuring all homes reach a basic standard of health and safety first.

This approach, they say, would deliver bigger, long‑lasting benefits in terms of lower bills, healthier homes and reduced greenhouse gas emissions.

Importantly, the report emphasises that lessons from the recently scrapped ECO4 scheme and its predecessors must inform future policy design. It calls for new institutional frameworks, stronger oversight, better community engagement, and a move away from short‑term contractor models toward sustained investment in skills and quality delivery.

Learning from past errors

The report doesn’t just criticise past programmes – it lays out a practical roadmap for getting retrofit right the next time, for instance, with the government's new Warm Homes Plan.

Instead of repeating the same narrowly focused initiatives, it calls for a fundamentally different way of delivering home improvements that ensures quality, fairness, and impact.

The four main suggestions from the framework proposal are:

1. Plan at neighbourhood level, not project by project

Rather than funding individual measures house by house, retrofit should be organised at the scale of whole streets or areas.

This allows planners to prioritise homes that need structural repairs first (e.g., damp proofing, roof fixes) before energy upgrades – something that past schemes often ignored. The report argues this is essential for both effectiveness and cost‑efficiency.

“You can’t just bolt insulation onto a broken house – first you have to fix the house,” said one lead author. “Neighbourhood‑scale planning stops energy upgrades becoming expensive window dressing.”

2. Build quality into the system from the start

A major shortcoming of programmes like ECO4 and the Great British Insulation Scheme, the report says, was the reliance on short‑term contracts and minimum cost incentives that encouraged rushed or substandard work.

To fix this, it proposes:

• Strong independent quality checks at every stage, not just after installation
• Clear workmanship standards tied to funding
• Public‑sector or long‑term community retrofit teams that develop expertise rather than shifting hundreds of contractors in and out

“Quality assurance can’t be an afterthought or box‑ticking exercise,” the report states. “Homes must be retrofit‑ready before energy measures are installed."

3. Protect residents, especially tenants

Too often, the people living in homes did not see the benefits of retrofit because costs were passed on through higher rents or disruption forced temporary (and sometimes permanent) displacement.

The report recommends:

• Tenant safeguards so landlords cannot raise rents or evict tenants because of retrofit works
• Compensation or accommodation support during disruptive works
• Stronger enforcement of housing standards alongside retrofit funding

“Investment in homes should improve lives - not lead to eviction and higher rents,” a senior researcher said.

4. Stop scaling up failed models and start building capacity

The authors make clear that simply spending more money on the same delivery models will not solve deep‑rooted problems. Instead, they call for public investment in:

• Dedicated retrofit bodies at county or regional level
• A skilled, permanent retrofit workforce
• Integrated planning between energy, housing and health agencies

“Expanding yesterday’s schemes just expands yesterday’s mistakes,” the report warns.

“We need new institutions, not bigger versions of broken ones.”

Although you might not consider utility room heating to be a priority, you could be missing a trick when it comes to the long term impact of not being clever about it in a space that's often prone to excess moisture.

Add to this the fact your utility room design may include external walls, a door to the outside and an extractor fan, and suddenly what might only be a small room, can quickly become a cold and damp one, with the risk of developing longer-term damage.

So what are the best ways of heating a utility room and how do you make sure you choose the right systems? We asked the same questions of heating experts and here's what they recommend.

Choosing your utility room heating

Whether you're just in the throes of choosing utility room ideas for a self build, or looking at ways to improve your current one during renovations, the good news is you're thinking about your utility room heating at exactly the right time.

"The utility room is one of those spaces where early heating decisions really pay off later," confirms Nick Duggan, director of The Radiator Centre. "While it may not be the most glamorous room in the house, it’s often one of the hardest working, so getting the heating right is essential for comfort, efficiency and long-term usability."

To start the process of choosing your utility room heating, "the first consideration is how the room will function day to day," says Nick. In most cases, utility rooms are used as laundry rooms, the appliances for which will add heat and moisture to the space.

Or, perhaps you're creating a bootility – a handy combination of boot room and utility in one, the consequences of which will mean wet clothes and shoes need extra heat to dry.

"Heat loss is the other key factor, especially where utility rooms include external doors or are located at the edge of the house," adds Nick. All of these will impact what utility room heating you need and choose.

Throw into the mix the fact that, "many modern utility rooms are compact and packed with cabinetry, appliances and storage, which can limit wall space," adds Nick, and it suddenly becomes clear that popping a radiator on the wall and hoping for the best will not be the solution to heating a utility room.

Shop these utility room laundry items

Which heating system is best for a utility room?

Regardless of whether you power your utility room heating using a heat pump or boiler, the type of emitter you use will sometimes be dependant on how you are heating the rest of your home. If you have radiators throughout, you may look to use different types of radiators in a utility room. If you are installing underfloor heating throughout, then it can be natural to consider extending this into your utility room too.

That said, there is also the option of electric underfloor heating which you may consider if the room is relatively small.

But is there one system that works better for utility room heating than another, and what pros and cons do you need to consider before you commission an installer or heating professional?

Using radiators for heating a utility room

If you're renovating an older property, or simply upgrading your existing utility room, the chances are it either has no heating, or a radiator. Extending your radiator led system in this instance will likely be an easier option, and there is nothing to suggest that having radiators in a utility room won't work. They are a perfectly acceptable option, and one I wish I had, currently being the owner of a very small utility room that has no heating at all!

However, once you've calculated the size of radiator you need for the room, depending your utility room layout and size, you may find yourself needing to think outside of a standard model when it comes to its design.

"When space is limited, thinking beyond a standard horizontal radiator can be helpful," agrees Nick Duggan. "Vertical or slimline radiators offer strong heat output while fitting neatly between units, and multi-purpose designs can be useful where drying laundry, coats or muddy dog towels has become part of everyday life. These designs could include towel rails, hooks, shelving or even seating," he notes.

Underfloor heating and utility rooms

The other main option for heating a utility room is underfloor heating, which can be helpful if you have limited wall space and don't want to sacrifice valuable storage space.

It may also be your preferred heating choice if you are planning on using your utility room for lots of laundry.

"Drying clothes within the home can contribute to increased humidity and moisture in the air, which in turn can lead to problems with mould and damp," explains Tom Edmunds, general manager of Wunda. "Alongside careful utility room ventilation and monitoring humidity levels, underfloor heating in a utility room can also support with the efficiency of drying clothes and also help to prevent damp problems in the long term.

"In comparison to radiators, underfloor heating also provides an even heating distribution," says Tom, "which means the whole room will heat evenly, rather than being focused to one spot.

"This also means there’s no need to hang clothes directly on top of, or next to the heat source which can block the heat from the rest of the room and also cause damage to delicate fabric. With the room evenly heated, clothes are dried gently and the whole room is heated comfortably, helping to limit damp build up," he explains.

In essence, having underfloor heating is like having a giant radiator – but on the floor rather than the walls. And it's the same whether you choose electric underfloor heating or a water-fed system.

But which type of underfloor heating is best for your utility room?

"Electric systems are primarily advised for only heating smaller spaces such as a bathrooms, small utility rooms, or single-room retrofit projects due to the ever-increasing running costs," explains Tom. "Water-based systems are cheaper to run than electric and have a much longer working life span, so are best for larger-scale projects."

The 'smart' secret to improving your utility room heating

Whether you choose underfloor heating or radiators for your utility room heating, there is one element that both our experts agree on, and that's the benefit of adding some smart home heating elements to it.

"Zoning the heating separately to the rest of the house, with the use of smart controls or a separate thermostat, is certainly worth considering if your utility room is not in constant use," agrees Nick Duggan.

James Clark, technical manager at Wiser explains the options available in more detail.

“With appliances such as washing machines, tumble dryers and boilers generating both warmth and humidity, it’s important that homeowners are able to manage temperature and moisture levels effectively to protect the space and anything stored in it," he begins.

“If your utility room has a radiator, installing a smart heating system with smart radiator thermostats will mean you can ensure the space is only heated when necessary, preventing wasted energy," says James.

Smart radiator thermostats, such as those available from Wiser for example, are connected to the wider smart heating system, so you can easily adjust and schedule the heating specifically in your utility room, often through an app on your phone.

“The control that smart radiator thermostats offer, also means you can ensure that your utility room doesn’t get too cold – this will help reduce the relative humidity and also help prevent condensation, both of which could lead to mould if not managed correctly," expands James.

And, regardless of the heating system you install, you may also want to consider specifying a temperature and humidity sensor which monitor the room's humidity levels in real time, he suggests.

"These sensors allow you to make informed decisions about when to increase ventilation or adjust your heating settings to strike the right balance," he explains. But that's not all you could consider, he notes.

“Utility rooms are also more prone to leaks, whether from appliances or pipework. As part of the 2^nd Generation system, the Wiser water leakage sensor offers an extra layer of reassurance for homeowners. These sensors will audibly alert you as soon as a leak is detected, as well as notify you through the app, so you can act quickly to minimise potential costly damage."

Shop these smart heating systems

In summary, it's clear that heating a utility room needs more thought than perhaps you first think, and it's definitely a case of looking at how you will use the room before you make any rush decisions.

If you're considering using your utility room as a home for your pets, or even putting a dog shower in there, a toasty warm floor under a dog bed may be ideal for example.

Or, on the other hand, if appliances and storage means you actually have little floor space left (remember you can't run underfloor heating under cabinets or appliances), but you do have a free wall, it may be easier to use it for a radiator so that you have enough heat.

Of course, budget will also play a part, so before you make your final decisions, find out how much you can expect to pay for underfloor heating costs and take a look at what the experts say in response to the question, 'which is more efficient – underfloor heating or radiators?'

UK heat pump sales reached a record high in 2025, with more than 125,000 units sold, marking another year of strong growth for the low-carbon heating sector.

New figures from the Heat Pump Association (HPA) show the market grew by 27% year on year, with more than a third of units now manufactured in the UK.

However, analysis of the data suggests that at the current pace, only around one in 20 UK homes will have a heat pump installed by 2030, with calls growing for the government to press ahead with long-awaited building standards and energy policies.

Record sales, but a long road ahead for homes

HPA data shows 125,037 heat pumps were sold in the UK in 2025, including more than 110,000 hydronic systems, as all major heat pump technologies recorded growth.

Air-source heat pump sales rose by 26%, ground- and water-source heat pumps by 32%, and domestic hot water heat pumps by 36% compared to 2024.

Despite the record year, the rate of growth slowed compared with the 56% surge seen in 2024. If annual sales continue to grow at around the current rate, the UK is on track to install roughly 1.5 million additional heat pumps between now and 2030, equivalent to around 5% of the UK’s 28 million homes.

Falling short of the Government’s 2030 target

The Government’s Warm Homes Plan sets an ambition of installing 450,000 heat pumps per year by 2030, a level that industry analysis suggests requires sustained annual growth of around 33%.

Current trends fall short of that trajectory, leaving annual installations closer to 400,000 by the end of the decade unless growth accelerates.

The gap matters because heat pumps are central to decarbonising home heating and reducing reliance on imported gas.

HPA analysis estimates that aligning deployment with the Carbon Budget Growth and Delivery Plan could add £14 billion to UK gross value added this decade and cut gas imports by up to 62% by 2035.

How growth could accelerate

Industry leaders say stronger policy signals are now needed to turn steady growth into mass adoption.

Charlotte Lee, Chief Executive of HPA UK, said heat pumps remain “a pivotal technology to decarbonise heat in the UK” but warned that momentum must be maintained to meet Government targets.

She called for the urgent publication of the Future Homes Standard and reforms to rebalance electricity and gas prices, adding that both are needed to “unlock the main barriers to accelerate heat pump deployment”.

Paul Kenny, Director General of the European Heat Pump Association, echoed those concerns, arguing that while the Warm Homes Plan provides a strong framework, the UK must address the tax imbalance between electricity and gas to ensure heat pumps are the most cost-effective choice for households.

The Government’s newly unveiled £15 billion Warm Homes Plan risks becoming a "costly mistake" by prioritising high-tech heat pumps over basic insulation.

The Builders Merchant Federation (BMF) say that removing mandatory insulation requirements from the Boiler Upgrade Scheme allows homeowners to install expensive low-carbon heating into "leaky" properties that cannot retain the warmth.

Without a "fabric first" approach, they warn thousands of homeowners could be left with underperforming systems and unexpectedly high energy bills.

The insulation omission

While the Government has pledged nearly £15 billion to upgrade five million homes, the BMF has voiced serious concerns regarding a lack of focus on the building's "fabric."

Since May 2024, Ofgem has removed the requirement for loft or cavity wall insulation to be in place before a homeowner can claim a £7,500 Boiler Upgrade Scheme grant.

BMF CEO John Newcomb argues that the current strategy is fundamentally flawed, stating: “It seems illogical that a £7,500 Boiler Upgrade Scheme grant can be claimed without measures to properly insulate homes first.”

For renovators, this policy shift creates a risk of installing advanced tech that the home simply isn't ready for.

The 'bath without a plug' warning

The criticism centres on the efficiency of low-carbon technology in poorly insulated spaces. Mike Beard, Chair of the BMF’s Insulation and Dry-Lining Forum, describes the current policy as "like running a bath and not putting the plug in."

Because heat pumps typically operate at lower flow temperatures than traditional gas boilers, they require a well-insulated environment to function effectively.

“It’s imperative that we don’t lose sight of the need for fabric-first, well-insulated properties,” Beard warns, noting that failing to do so will cause the benefits of energy-efficient measures to “backfire” as heat escapes faster than it can be generated.

Calls for a fabric-first future

The BMF is now calling for the Warm Homes Plan to be "re-plumbed" with a fabric-first strategy.

CEO John Newcomb argues that while the £15 billion allocation is a welcome "long-overdue" investment, the logic of subsidising £7,500 for a heat pump without ensuring the home can hold that heat is "illogical."

The federation is urging the Government to reintroduce measures that ensure insulation is installed professionally and prioritised as the foundation of any home renovation to ensure the UK’s housing stock is truly fit for a net-zero future.

Thousands of UK homes upgraded under government insulation schemes now face serious defects, damp, and potential safety hazards, leaving families exposed to potentially unaffordable repair bills.

Audits reveal that 98 % of external wall insulation and nearly a third of internal installations were defective, while fewer than 10 % of affected homes had been fixed by late 2025.

Experts warn that systemic oversight failures and underfunded guarantees mean the financial burden could fall on households rather than the state.

'Catastrophic fiasco' leaves homes damaged

A parliamentary audit reveals that homes upgraded under ECO4 and the Great British Insulation Scheme launched to cut bills and improve energy efficiency – instead face widespread substandard work and ongoing costs.

Sir Geoffrey Clifton‑Brown, Chair of the Public Accounts Committee (PAC), called the result of the scheme “the most catastrophic fiasco” he has seen in his 12 years on the committee.

He said: “Potentially thousands of people are now living with health and safety risks in their homes, and we have nowhere near enough assurance that they are not financially exposed to unaffordable bills to repair defective works.”

The National Audit Office found that in inspections up to mid‑January 2025, 98 % of external wall insulation and 29 % of internal installations were defective, creating health risks and structural problems for households.

Fraud fears compound the crisis

The PAC report highlights systemic weaknesses that no single organisation had responsibility for preventing fraud or poor quality.

Ofgem has flagged installations worth 1.75 % of scheme value as fraudulent, but MPs suspect the true figure is much higher due to non‑compliance and weak monitoring.

Sir Geoffrey Clifton‑Brown said: “The levels of non‑compliance found here are so high that this matter should be referred to the Serious Fraud Office.”

TrustMark, the government‑endorsed quality scheme, has been criticised for failing to identify risks early, auditing less than 10 % of affected homes by September 2025. This leaves households uncertain if their properties will ever be properly fixed.

Households face bills beyond guarantees

Original installers are meant to fix defects, with guarantee providers covering costs up to £20,000, but some cases reportedly exceed this, leaving households potentially liable.

Campaigners warn that families who thought they were signing up for lower bills and warmer homes now risk extensive repairs and health hazards.

Jess Ralston, Head of Energy at the Energy & Climate Intelligence Unit (ECIU), offered broader context in response to ongoing policy discussions this week, saying: "This report shows that people’s homes and lives have been damaged by these faulty installations… There has clearly been a lack of proper regulation going back many years, but this government now has an opportunity to bring in proper standards in the Warm Homes Plan.”

Government ministers state that no household should have to pay to fix defects, but the PAC report warns there is no credible, funded plan yet to guarantee this outcome.

Britain’s first mine water heat Living Laboratory in Gateshead is attracting significant international attention from scientists and engineers keen to understand how flooded coal mine water can be used as a reliable low‑carbon heat source.

The project has generated thousands of hours of real‑world thermal and geophysical data from multiple operational schemes, helping to inform future clean heat solutions.

With around a quarter of UK homes located above former coalfields, experts say mine water heat could play a part in future home heating strategies.

What the Living Lab shows

The Gateshead mine water heat Living Lab - led by the Mining Remediation Authority - sits between three operational mine water heat schemes in the North East of England and makes open‑access data available to researchers worldwide.

One of the international researchers engaging with the project, Dr Christine Doughty, Staff Scientist at the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory in the United States, said: “Mine water geothermal represents a huge potential resource for heating and cooling in the UK, the US and elsewhere. When you look at maps of abandoned, flooded mine shafts… it’s truly impressive how extensive the networks of fluid flow paths are.”

Another international collaborator, Elke Mugova, a researcher at Fraunhofer IEG in Germany, added: “The Living Lab offers a unique opportunity… to benchmark and compare high‑resolution thermal and hydraulic data with our own monitoring sites in former coal mines.”

These testimonials highlight why the UK’s data‑rich Living Lab is becoming a reference point for geothermal and low‑carbon heat research.

Mines providing real heat in UK homes

Mine water heat exploits naturally warmed water in flooded mine workings by lifting it to the surface, using heat exchangers and heat pumps to supply heat into district networks.

In Gateshead, a 6 megawatt (MW) water source heat pump pulls heat from mine water more than 150 m underground and feeds it into a 5 km network. This supplies heat to about 350 homes, local colleges, arts venues and offices.

It was reported that around 6 million UK homes sit above former coalfields that could, in theory, benefit from similar low‑carbon heat solutions - making mine water heat a compelling option for regions with the right geology.

A pilot project was also launched in Seaham, County Durham, to show the technology being extended to provide heat to 750 homes, proving the scheme works in practice.

Proven success and growing potential

The Gateshead scheme is one of the largest in Europe, and it has already delivered low‑carbon heat at scale – offering a real‑world example for others to follow.

Independent data from the Living Lab shows the project has produced thousands of hours of thermal, hydrological and geophysical data, giving scientists unmatched insight into how mine water behaves underground.

Dr Fiona Todd, geoscientist and project lead, said: “Access to real‑world mine water data at this scale is incredibly rare. The level of national and international interest shows the value of creating an open, shared resource that others can learn from.”

With the UK’s first large‑scale mine water heating network already saving an estimated 1,800 tonnes of CO₂ annually compared with gas heating, the model points to a tangible route for low‑carbon heat across Britain’s historic coalfield areas - not just research interest, but measurable impact.

Although heat pumps are still considered a relatively new form of heating, early adopters of air source heat pumps may now find themselves in the position of needing to upgrade it. Or, perhaps you are simply wondering what's involved when you need to upgrade yours in the future.

Most homeowners are fully aware that gas and oil boilers do not last forever and that from time to time it is inevitable that the boiler will need to be replaced. It's the same with heat pumps, but at the same time as replacing or upgrading the unit, you may also need to make additional changes.

From the cost implications to dealing with regulatory issues, heating expert, David Hilton, explains just what's involved when you upgrade a heat pump

What are the costs involved with upgrading a heat pump?

Unlike new heat pump costs, a replacement heat pump is not usually eligible for the Boiler Upgrade Scheme payment. Both the heat pump and installation costs will need to be covered by the homeowner, and as such some homeowners do opt to go back to a boiler system due to the cost involved.

That said, if (and it is a big if) the original heat pump was correctly designed and installed well then there should be very little that needs changing in the system, other than the heat pump unit itself and a small amount of wiring to connect the controls. The cost should therefore be a lot less than an initial heat pump installation.

However, if the original heat pump system was not installed correctly, the emitters (radiators and underfloor heating) were not sized, specified and installed correctly, and the pipework is not large enough, then the costs could be very much in line with the cost of an initial installation and conversion, which may not be a viable solution.

Planning and building regulations requirements

What you may not realise, is that just because you have already got a heat pump it does not mean you can automatically replace it, even if it seems to be like for like.

Heat pumps in many cases get get installed under Permitted Development Rights (PDR), meaning that if you tick all of the conditions required for installation then you do not need to apply for full planning permission.

However, this also means that if your original heat pump was installed under PDR, then any replacement heat pump must comply with up to date permitted development details.

The notable issue here relates to the sound assessment requirements. Sound assessments look at the proximity of an air source heat pump to the 'assessment position'. This is defined as one metre outside the centre of a window of a habitable room on a neighbouring property.

The sound assessment methodology changed in May 2025 which will mean it will have to be recalculated when you upgrade to a new heat pump. This could subsequently affect the outcome of an upgrade meeting PDR.

If any physical changes have taken place during the time that the heat pump has been in situ, then this can also impact the feasibility of replacing the unit. For example, if the neighbours have built an extension, new dwelling or annexe, that is now closer to the heat pump than the previous habitable room was at the time of installation, then that could be a hurdle.

The rules around barriers between the heat pump and the assessment position have also changed so that the fence between the home and the neighbouring property needs to be at least as high, and as robust, as the time when the heat pump was installed, possibly even more so.

All domestic hot water storage systems must also be compliant with Part G of the building regulations. Since 2010 that includes both vented and unvented systems (that’s gravity feed (low pressure) and mains (high pressure) systems to the non-technical reader). Your new heat pump installation must therefore be installed and be certificated by a competent person as compliant with these regulations.

Options when upgrading a heat pump

Heat pumps have certainly evolved in the last 15 years which means there are now more efficient models that are far more intuitive to your home and heating needs. This means if you're upgrading an older model there are improved versions to choose from.

But how does this look in operational terms?

Back in 2010 most heat pumps had a fixed speed compressor. This meant that the unit would only produce a fixed amount of heat. The heat pump was either on (at full capacity), or it was off. There was no in-between and the only way to prevent the heat pump stopping and starting in short cycles was to fit a large cylinder to the central heating system to store energy.

Modulating compressors (also known as inverter compressors) were soon introduced and now most, if not all, air source heat pumps have modulating compressors which allow the heat pump to deliver a range of outputs.

The heat pump tries to match the heat load of the home and modulates up and down depending on the demand and therefore does not need a large cylinder, often needing no cylinder at all.

The refrigerants have also changed over the years to comply with Global Warming Potential (GWP) rules. The latest refrigerants, such as R290 (which is actually refrigerant quality Propane) can achieve higher temperatures than most of the previous refrigerants that were used in domestic heat pumps.

Higher temperatures are less efficient than lower temperatures in a heat pump, but because the heat pump modulates it will only operate at higher temperatures when the demand requires it. So in other words, the colder the air temperature is outside, the warmer the heat pump flow temperature will be.

Many heat pumps also now have a full online monitoring capability. The manufacturer or the installer can remotely access the operating data from the heat pump and in the event of an error, or breakdown, the data can often provide a diagnosis of the issue which may negate the need for a visit from an engineer, but also allows the engineer to come prepared if the visit is required.

The data can be analysed by the engineer to interpret running patterns and they can make suggestions to optimise the operation of the heat pump. If certain rooms are triggering the heating system then this becomes very important information when readjusting the system for optimised efficiency.

The reality is that installing a replacement heat pump is not as simple as replacing a boiler. Many of the calculations need to be redone, and any regulatory or physical changes must be accounted for. The good news is that the answer to how long does a heat pump last is that you should get between 20 - 25 years of use before it does it need upgrading.

When choosing a new model, make sure you get a few quotes from reputable installers as they will be fully versed with the industry updates, and also should be able to advise you of any work that is required to optimise the heat pump as part of the quoting process.

Heat pumps work ‘low and slow’ and boilers work ‘hard and fast’ so the system must always be designed and operated with this in mind. More advanced heat pumps should be easier to optimise and monitor for maximum efficiency, making the decision to upgrade your heat pump one that will reap rewards in the long run.

Given that much of what goes on in the bathroom involves being mostly unclothed, this should be the one room that feels warm and cosy – yet all too often not enough thought and planning goes into heating a bathroom.

For many people, the go-to heat source in their bathroom will be a heated towel warmer – but is this enough? With so many other heat sources on offer, it might just be time to consider some alternatives, or to reassess the current set-up you are using.

If you are regularly stepping out of your shower or bath into an icy cold space that leaves you shivering, fear not. We spoke to the experts in order to garner their advice on not just the best ways to warm up a bathroom in winter with heating, but also for tips on other, quick and easy-to-implement ways to keep the heat in and the cold out.

Will a towel rail alone heat a bathroom?

When it comes to bathroom radiators, heated towel rails come in all kinds of sizes and forms these days, from those designed to look like traditional column radiators, to models that look like sculptural works of art. They can be plumbed into your central heating, run off electricity or even dual fuel and are a brilliant way to ensure your wet towels stay warm and dry – but can they effectively heat a bathroom as the sole heat source?

"We get this question a lot, and the honest answer is that a single towel warmer doesn't always work as the only way to heat a bathroom," reveals Sean Hogan of Aventus Eco. "This is especially true in the UK climate. They're great at what they're supposed to do, which is to warm your towels and clothes, and they do give off a little background heat, but they're not usually made to heat a whole room to a comfortable temperature.

"You see, bathrooms naturally lose heat very quickly. You have a lot of airflow to get rid of moisture, such as a wall that faces the outside, and sometimes pretty big windows," explains Sean. 'Because of these things, the heat flow (BTU or Watts) from a normal towel warmer isn't enough to stop the heat loss. If you only depend on it, you might still feel cold when you get out of the shower, and that could even cause towels to dry slowly, which can cause moisture problems. We usually recommend having two heat sources: one for general warmth, like a towel warmer, and one that is especially made to meet the full heat needs of the room."

That said, Olivia Marshall, brand category manager at Plumbworld says that, in some cases, a single towel warmer can work.

"One heat source should be fine if you have small bathroom and the space is well insulated," advises Olivia. "However, you may want to consider an additional heat source if you have a larger room. Adding an additional heat source, such as another radiator or underfloor heating, can create a more comfortable temperature and help evenly distribute the heat around the room. This will also help to reduce issues such as lingering condensation, damp and mould – common problems in a bathroom."

Additionally, it is possible to combine a radiator with a towel rail all in one stylish unit, according to Nick Duggan, MD of The Radiator Centre. "Some designer radiators come with towel rail attachments, giving the best of both worlds by providing high heat output as well as warm towels," says Nick. "The choice of designs nowadays is vast, so if you’ve only considered the standard ladder-style type, you may be surprised to see the huge range of shapes and designs available."

Should a bathroom have two heat sources?

If a heated towel rail alone is not enough to effectively heat a bathroom, does that mean you should supplement it with an additional heat source – and if so, which is best?

"Even though a single towel warmer is great for warming towels, it rarely gives off enough heat to warm a whole bathroom," says Gordon Chalk, MD at Next Level Underfloor Heating and Screed Solutions LTD. "We almost always suggest another main heat source for warming the room along with a towel warmer for extra comfort."

"Typically, there are three main types of heat sources available for homeowners to choose for bathroom heating," explains Olivia Marshall. "These are radiators, heated towel rails and underfloor heating. Some of these heating choices will be dependent on the size, shape and style of your bathroom, as well as the type of home you live in, so it’s always worth consulting a professional before you make your decision."

Bathroom radiators

If you have the wall space to spare, fitting an additional radiator into your bathroom can be a great way to ensure it is heated effectively in winter.

"Radiators have changed a lot since the old days when they were just those big, bulky panels," points out Sean Hogan. "You can get vertical designs that are sleek and look great – and when you fit a TRV, they become very easy to control and heat the air very quickly. The most important thing is to make sure it's the right size for the room's heat loss."

"Column radiators offer a more traditional style and look, but are just as efficient as a modern radiator," says Olivia Marshall. "They are offered in a wide range of sizes too, from the traditional horizontal shape to a taller, vertical option that help to maximise space in smaller rooms. Column radiators can be bulkier in their design than panel radiators though.

"Panel radiators are a great option for bathroom heating as there’s often a wide range of styles and sizes for homeowners to choose from and they can be both vertical and horizontal, making them a great choice for homes where space might be at a premium," continues Olivia. "A panel heater is generally easy to install and should fit directly into your central heating without any problems, plus their high heat output ensures that bathrooms of any size remain warm during the winter months."

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Underfloor heating

Using underfloor heating as a main source of bathroom heat, with a towel warmer too is, for many, the ideal set-up.

"One thing that always jumps out to me as the best is underfloor heating," says Sean Hogan. "It gives off an amazing, even heat that rises from the floor and makes those cold bathroom floor tiles seem like a faraway memory. When combined with a low-temperature device like a heat pump, it works even better, and the warm surface of the floor helps dry up any spills or remaining wetness quickly."

"Also, UFH solves the common problem of bathrooms not having enough wall space so helps with bathroom storage," picks up Gordon Chalk. "Wet UFH systems set in a ground layer are the best choice for new builds or major upgrades because they provide strong and efficient heating. Electric UFH mats are a quick and easy-to-install option for smaller repair projects or places where floor height is an issue."

Electric heaters

While some people are a little fearful of fitting an electric heater in a bathroom, they can actually work surprisingly well – particularly in retrofit situations.

"Electric bathroom heaters rely on your home’s mains electricity supply rather than the heating system," explains Olivia Marshall. "They can be turned on by a simple on-off switch, meaning the heat is instant and on-demand compared to a conventional radiator which takes longer to heat up the room.

"Homeowners must ensure that electric bathroom heaters are designed specifically for wet areas and have a clear IPX4 rating, meaning it’s safe and protected if it’s splashed with water," continues Olivia. "They should also be installed by a qualified electrician who will ensure it’s safe to use in the bathroom areas."

What are the other ways to keep a bathroom warm in winter?

Along with your heated towel rail and, if needed, additional heat source, there are other ways to keep a bathroom feeling warm. These include:

• Flooring material choices: This one is particularly important if you don't have UFH. "Tiles and natural stone can often feel cold underfoot during the winter months," says Olivia Marshall. "Choosing an alternative flooring material can make your bathroom feel a bit more comfortable, such as vinyl, cork flooring or wood effect floors. Using a thick bath mat or laying a bathroom-friendly rug can also help to reduce the shock of a cold floor when using your bathroom in winter."
• Upgrading insulation: "It is very important to insulate the outside walls and the space right above the bathroom with good insulation," says Gordon Chalk. "This will keep the heat in and make your heating system work less."
• Draught proofing: "You wouldn't believe how much cold air can get in through tiny cracks in doors, windows, and even your house's vent fan," warns Sean Hogan. "You can stop these cold air currents by putting silicone sealant around window frames, installing good door sweeps, and making sure extractor fan vents close properly when not in use."
• Thermal blinds: "An insulated blind can help to retain warmth in the evenings and reduce drafts," advises Olivia Marshall. "Ensure you choose a blind that is suitable for bathrooms and moisture resistant to prevent any issues with bathroom mould."
• Wall panelling: "Consider swapping tiles for wall panelling. Wood is a good natural insulating material, with panels being completely waterproof and providing a contemporary look," says Olivia Marshall. "Another great option is PVC panelling, which can provide homeowners with luxurious effects such as marble, stone and terrazzo, without the huge costs and are typically warmer than traditional tiles too."
• Using your extractor fan properly: "Make sure your bathroom extractor fan is shut when not in use to prevent hot air from escaping and creating a draughty environment," suggests Olivia. "Many modern extractor fans have grills that close automatically when they’re not in use, preventing cold air from getting into your home."

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FAQs

How do you choose the right size heated towel rail?

The best bathroom radiators are correctly sized and getting the size of your heated towel rail just right is key to ensuring not only that it can hold all the towels you need it to, but also that it provides some degree of warmth.

"An exact heat loss estimate is always the key to choosing the right size for any heat source, even a towel warmer if you want it to make a real difference to the room's warmth," explains Sean Hogan. "We don't just guess. We look at the room's length, width, and height, as well as how many exterior walls there are. Windows also play a big role; the size and number of panes (single, double, or triple) affect how much heat is lost. There's also the insulation, or lack of it, in the floor, walls, and roof. We'll look at the temperature you want (most bathrooms are kept a little warmer, around 21–24°C) and how fast your vent fan takes air out.

"A professional will use all of this information to figure out how much heat your bathroom needs – generally in BTUs or Watts – to stay at the temperature you want it to be even on the coldest days. Once we know that number, we can choose a towel warmer, heater, or UFH system that has a total output that meets or just goes above that need. You shouldn't choose a towel rail based on how big it looks; you should always check how much heat it puts out."

If you are not just feeling the chill in your bathroom right now, but throughout the house, there are some easy upgrades to make that will make the world of difference. Make sure you understand about draught proofing windows properly – and check for gaps around doors too. Check your radiators are running as they should – if they aren't heating up they may need bleeding, or there could be a problem brewing with your boiler.

If you find yourself with no hot water but your heating still works, you'd be forgiven for thinking it makes no sense. We'd think the same too, which is why we've asked heating experts to explain why this problem occurs.

And, with a study revealing 1 in 5 of us faced heating issues this time last year*, it's probably important you arm yourself with this particular knowledge now, in case you find yourself in a similar situation before the winter ends.

From the simple steps you can take to fix the problem yourself to the faults where only a heating engineer will do, here's why you can sometimes have no hot water but your heating system still works.

4 steps before you call in a professional

The good news is, before you race to find a heating engineer to fix the problem, there are a number of checks you can perform yourself. While they may not always fix the problem, there's a chance they could – potentially saving you time and money in the process.

1. Check the pressure

"Start by checking the boiler pressure; most systems should sit between 1 and 2 bar. If the pressure is too low, the boiler may struggle to deliver hot water," explains Adam Knight, a lead engineer at BOXT. "Many boilers can be safely repressurised by following the manufacturer’s guidance, but you should never force any valves or overfill the system," he warns.

2. Look at the thermostat settings

“Next, make sure you also check the hot water thermostat," says John Klee, heating and technology expert at Best Heating. "It may sound obvious, but the temperature control can easily be turned down accidentally while adjusting the heating settings. Ensure the thermostat is set correctly and that the settings on the control panel match those on the boiler itself," he adds.

"Make sure the timer is set correctly, and if the controls use batteries, replacing them is a simple step that is also often overlooked," adds Adam Knight.

3. Check all visible pipework

"Your next step is to take a look at your radiators and any visible pipework," says Adam Knight. "Cold spots on radiators can be a sign of trapped air, which can usually be released by radiator bleeding. It’s also worth checking around the boiler for any visible leaks. But, if you do see water, don’t open the boiler casing or try to fix it yourself," he warns.

"In colder weather, also look for any signs of frozen pipes," says John Klee, noting that, "it’s also worth checking with neighbours to see if their supply is affected, as this can rule out a wider water service issue in your area."

4. Try a boiler reset

"Finally, try the simplest step which is to reset the boiler," says John Klee. "Switch it off, wait at least 30 minutes, then turn it back on to allow the internal components to fully reset.

"If your system has a diverter valve on a separate circuit, switch this off and on as well. This can often resolve minor faults and restore normal hot water flow."

When you'll need to call in a professional heating engineer

Tried all four steps? Then it's likely time to accept you need professional help, particularly given the advice from Adam Knight who says, "what you should never do is remove the boiler cover, interfere with internal components, or try to ‘reset’ the system repeatedly if it keeps failing.

If these basic checks don’t help, it’s safest to stop and call a Gas Safe registered engineer.”

So what could be the cause of the fact you have no hot water but your heating still works? Before you start searching and worrying about new boiler costs, our experts say the positive news is that you might not need to replace your boiler.

“When heating works but hot water doesn’t, the problem is often down to a specific component rather than the whole boiler," advises Adam Knight.

"In combi boilers, a faulty diverter valve is one of the most common causes. This valve directs heat either to the radiators or to your taps. If it sticks, the boiler may heat the home but fail to produce hot water for taps or showers. This is a common repair and does not usually require a new boiler."

"Although repairing or replacing a diverter valve is a relatively straightforward task for a qualified heating engineer," adds John Keel, "the component itself can be difficult to access. It should never be removed or tampered with by anyone who isn’t trained and certified to work on boilers.

"A Gas Safe-registered professional will be able to diagnose whether the fault lies with the diverter valve or within the boiler itself and advise whether repair or replacement is the most efficient long-term solution."

It can also keep you up to date with any boiler maintenance, he adds, as "an engineer can also confirm that your heating and hot water systems are otherwise functioning safely and efficiently."

Other potential causes

But, if the problem isn't a faulty diverter valve, there are also other situations when a professional is required.

"Another common issue can be a failed thermistor or temperature sensor; these components tell the boiler when to heat the water," explains Adam Knight. "If they stop working, the boiler may not respond to hot water demand, even though the heating is still running.

"Problems with the heat exchanger or pressure-related faults can cause similar symptoms and, in many cases, are repairable," he adds.

Worried you still might need a new boiler if you have not hot water but still have heating? Try not to worry until an engineer has found the problem is Adam's advice.

"Replacement is usually only considered when a boiler is older, typically ten to twelve years, or when several components start failing at the same time. If repair costs are mounting, parts are difficult to source, or the boiler has become inefficient and unreliable, replacing it can often be the more cost-effective and dependable option. An annual boiler service should help identify any potential issues," he says.

"But, in most cases, heating without hot water is fixable," he confirms. "The age, condition, and repair history of the boiler are what ultimately determine whether repair or replacement makes sense.”

Both your heating and hot water playing up? Find out what other boiler problems could be causing your system to act up. Plus, once any issues are fixed, make sure your boiler flow temperature isn't set too high to help you save your energy bills in winter.

And, if you do find out you're in need of a new boiler, find out if how Beth Murton, Homebuilding & Renovating's editor got on when she tried the BOXT next-day installation service.

*A study of 2,028 UK adults commissioned by BOXT, carried out by Sago UK between 5th and 7th March 2025 revealed one in five Brits (18%) have faced heating and hot water problems in February 2025.

If your thermostat is playing up, it's the perfect time to think about investing in a replacement. But before you dive in, it makes sense to do a little research to find out what you can expect to pay for thermostat replacement costs. If you are going for something basic, you will spend a lot less than if you went for a smart top-end model.

Introducing a replacement thermostat is one of the most economical ways to use central heating. It will work more efficiently and smarter than your old one. Here we delve into the different types available, what’s a good choice and how much you can expect to pay to replace and install.

Why replace your thermostat?

Before you think about replacement costs, you need to consider why you need to replace your current thermostat and the benefits it will bring. Upgrading from a basic to a smart thermostat is common practice.

James Clark, technical training manager at Wiser, reveals why, “Smart thermostats are designed to make your heating system as efficient as possible by controlling the boiler more intelligently through load compensation and reducing energy wastage.”

He adds, “I’d advise upgrading from a basic thermostat to a smart thermostat system if you’re looking for better control over your heating and want to save money on your energy bills.

Common types of thermostats and their costs

You will typically find three different types of heating thermostats in the home. Here we look at how they work and typical costs.

Manual thermostats

These are the most basic types of thermostat found in the home. They are also known as non-programmable thermostats. Jamie Heath, plumbing and heating expert from Build & Plumb, explains how they work, “These thermostats have an internal NTC sensor that adjusts automatically to its surrounding area to comfortably control your heating. Typically, these thermostats have a central dial that can be turned to change the temperature.”

As basic models, they are also typically the cheapest. Heath adds, “On average, these thermostats cost between £20 to £50 depending on the model and manufacturer”.

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Programmable thermostats

These are a step up from manual thermostats and are common in many homes. Heath explains more, “Programmable thermostats are similar to non-programmable thermostats, but the main difference is that they can schedule a set of heating programs.

He adds, “This allows you to set a timer for when you want your heating to automatically turn on or off. The thermostat will then automatically turn off when your home has reached the desired temperature.” Finally, he says, “Programmable thermostats roughly cost between £30 to £70 on average”.

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Smart thermostats

Smart thermostats are the most expensive and advanced forms of thermostats available. Heath says, “They allow you to control your heating remotely from any location, using your smartphone, so you can turn the heating on and off, control temperatures or set schedules.”

Heath continues, “Smart thermostats also offer the best energy efficiency due to their advanced temperature controls, so they have the highest upfront costs. Typically, you can expect to pay from £100 to £250 for a smart thermostat.”

But they do have a downside, as Heath shares, “Although smart thermostats provide cost-saving benefits, savings are not automatic; users need to set schedules to reduce costs over time.” He adds, “This option is ideal for homes with irregular occupancy, second homes, frequent holidays, rental properties, or even those simply just warming up their home in winter”.

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Costs to replace a thermostat

The cost to replace a thermostat will depend on the type of thermostat you currently have, the time required to install it, and the cost of the replacement, as Heath points out, “The cost of replacing a thermostat can vary depending on the type of thermostat you have and the labour requirements needed for installation.”

He adds, “For instance, a standard manual thermostat costs an average of £20 to £50, whereas a smart thermostat can cost up to £250.” Clark shares the price for Wiser kits: “The Wiser Smart Thermostat Kits range from £195 to £352 depending on the model and number of channels required, giving homeowners a flexible starting point that can be expanded over time with the addition of a wide range of add-ons offering smart home functionality.”

Beyond the cost of the thermostat, there are installations to consider. Heath says, “Typically, installation of a thermostat costs an average of £50 to £80, so when combined with the material costs, you can be looking to pay from £195 to £330 for a smart thermostat installation”

FAQs

Q. How long does it take to replace a thermostat?

If you are looking to replace a thermostat, it’s a quick job that will be completed in less than a day. Heath shares how long the average thermostat replacement takes: “A standard thermostat replacement takes around 1 to 2 hours.” He adds, “However, smart thermostats can take up to 3 hours due to additional steps like connecting to wifi, the complexity of the wiring and so on”.

Q. Can a new thermostat save money on my energy bills?

Yes, it can, but to achieve worthwhile savings, you should consider investing in a smart thermostat. Heath explains why, “Smart thermostats can be controlled remotely from a smartphone or tablet, so you can adjust your heating from anywhere. This works well for individuals who are out at work all day or travel frequently.”

But this isn’t the only cost saver continues Heath, “They can automatically adjust to your routine so your heating and hot water is turned off when not in use, reducing energy consumption and the cost of bills.”

Keeping your home warm is essential in the winter. Check out our guide on heating a house extension, choosing an alternative heat emitter (rather than the common options) and what the boiler upgrade scheme can mean for you.

Cavity wall insulation is one of those home improvements that sounds like a no-brainer, promising a warmer home, fewer draughts and lower energy bills . In most cases, that’s exactly what you get, provided your home is actually suitable for it and the job is done properly.

Unfortunately, many homeowners jump in too quickly, tempted by government grants or persuasive sales pitches, and end up with problems. Damp patches, crumbling plaster and not achieving the promised energy savings are all possibilities.

This article sets out the most common cavity wall insulation mistakes and, more importantly, explains how to avoid botching when adding this type of home insulation.

1. Not checking if your home is suitable

The first and biggest mistake is assuming that cavity wall insulation is right for every home. It isn’t. Some properties just aren’t designed for it, and installing cavity wall insulation in the wrong type of wall can cause serious problems.

Older houses might have smaller cavities within the walls which can’t be properly filled with insulation. If the brickwork is particularly porous, or if the walls are regularly exposed to driving rain, then this could make cavity wall insulation an unsuitable choice. Timber frame properties are another big red flag. Their walls rely on ventilated cavities to keep the timber dry. Filling this space with insulation can trap moisture, leading to rot, structural problems and difficulties with securing insurance cover and mortgages.

Before carrying out cavity wall insulation, always have a professional survey. A proper inspection will identify the cavity width, check for any existing damp, and assess the general condition of the external walls. A reputable installer will insist on this as they won’t want long terms defects just as much as you.

2. Choosing the wrong insulation material

Even if your home is suitable, choosing the wrong insulation material can result in unexpected problems. The right type of insulation will depend on how your home is construction and also how exposed it is to severe weather conditions.

Mineral wool insulation is one of the most common options. It’s breathable and a good insulator, but it can absorb water if moisture gets into the cavity. Polystyrene beads are another popular choice and are water-resistant and able to fill awkward spaces easily. Polyurethane foam, expands to fill the cavity completely but has greater risk of defects particularly if the cavity isn’t constructed correctly.

Homeowners often go with whatever product the installer recommends without questioning its suitability. If the installer has limited product options or isn’t technically competent the wrong insulation product could be proposed. For example, recommending mineral wool or eco insulation in a wall with cracks or weak pointing that allows moisture to enter the cavity. If your home faces frequent wind-driven rain or you live in a coastal area, the installer should take that into account and recommend that repairs are undertaken.

It’s always best to ask why a particular material is being proposed and how it’s expected to perform. A good installer will be happy to explain all the options and provide a comparison of the features and benefits they offer. A bit of research before signing off will save a load of problems and hassle later.

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3. Poor installation techniques

Even the best insulation can fail miserably if it’s not installed properly. A common mistake is incomplete filling of the cavity. If the insulation doesn’t reach every part, voids will form, creating cold patches that allow heat to escape. These cold spots attract condensation and eventually mould will form.

Blocked vents are another common issue. Air bricks and ventilation openings should never be blocked as part of an installation. Blocked vents reduces airflow, increases condensation risk, leading to mould and damp problems.

Incorrect drilling patterns are also surprisingly common. Installers should follow a precise layout of drill holes across the external walls to ensure the insulation is evenly distributed. Drilling insufficient injection holes results in uneven insulation filling and if the holes aren’t properly sealed afterwards, rainwater can seep in leading to damp.

Good installers will use thermal imaging cameras and borescopes to checks and confirm that the cavity has been completely filled. If your installer doesn’t offer this, then ask questions quickly.

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4. Ignoring existing damp issues

It sounds obvious, but if you already have damp problems don’t install cavity wall insulation until the problem has been fixed. Despite what promotional literature might say, insulation isn’t a magic cure and poor installation can make things worse. Once insulation is in place, moisture that would have evaporated in an adequately ventilated cavity can become trapped. If there’s rising damp, penetrating damp, or even leaks from damaged guttering, these must be fixed well ahead of cavity wall installation taking place.

Installers sometimes downplay the importance of preparation works as this makes jobs more expensive and longer to complete. A good building survey should identify any damp issues and make recommendations for carrying out repairs. It’s far better to wait a few weeks for these to be done, rather than rushing and having to deal with saturated insulation and mould growth.

5. Lack of proper ventilation

Cavity wall insulation will make a home warmer and more airtight, which can be a double-edged sword. Older homes tend to rely on natural ventilation through air leaky walls to keep them well-ventilated and dry.

If this ventilation isn’t maintained, the result can be condensation on cold surfaces, particularly in areas with high humidity such as bathrooms and kitchens. Maintaining good ventilation is essential so check that air bricks that bridge the cavity aren’t blocked by the insulation. Also make sure that extractor fans are working correctly, trickle vents on windows are open, and loft spaces with insulation have adequate eaves ventilation.

6. Not using a certified or competent installer

There’s no shortage of stories about poor workmanship in the insulation industry. Some homeowners are lured in by cheap deals for insulation costs or slick sales pitches promising hassle free installations and significant savings on energy bills.

Using an unqualified or uncertified installer can lead to disastrous results. Without the necessary technical know-how, installations might not meet industry standards and resolving problems later, can become a complete nightmare.

Look for installers who are registered with recognised bodies such as CIGA (Cavity Insulation Guarantee Association), TrustMark or work with reputable organisations such as RetrofitWorks. Member installers are often required to be signed up to recognised industry schemes, have to follow specific standards and provide guarantees for their work.

Whilst cavity wall insulation might seem straightforward, DIY installations are best avoided. Doing the job correctly requires specialist equipment and training and the risk of causing damage far outweighs any savings from trying to do it yourself.

7. Failing to maintain and inspect

Once cavity wall insulation is installed, it’s completely out of sight and out of mind. Most people forget about it completely, but like any part of a house, it needs a little maintenance to keep it performing well and as intended.

Over time, insulation can settle, become damp, or degrade if it’s exposed to water. Cracked render, leaking downpipes, or deteriorating mastic pointing or mortar joints can allow rainwater to enter the cavity, soaking the insulation and reducing its effectiveness.

It’s a good idea to inspect exterior walls at least once a year. Look for cracks, damaged pointing, or anything that might allow moisture to get through to the cavity. If you notice cold spots or damp patches, have a professional carryout an inspection to find out why.

Remember, early intervention will stop minor issues turning into a major headaches. Simple maintenance tasks, such as cleaning gutters or repairing leaking downpipes will keep water under control and avoid damage to the cavity wall insulation.

8. Over-insulating or under-insulating

It’s possible to get insulation wrong even when it’s installed correctly. Too little, and you’ll not realise the planned energy savings. Too much could create other problems.

The more common mistake is under-insulating, usually because the installation wasn’t properly carried out. That leads to patchy performance, with some areas of the wall staying cold whilst others are warm.

Over-insulating isn’t usually a problem, but adding large amounts of insulation without a proper design can trap moisture between the insulation and wall layers, which again risks damp and further problems

The key is design and compliance with manufacturers installation recommendations. Firstly, the correct insulation product should be used to suit the cavity size and wall type. Assessments should support the design proposal such as U value calculations and condensation risk analysis. A competent installer will complete these in advance of an installation to ensure optimal thermal performance is achieved without compromising the building’s ability to breathe and dissipate moisture.

Cavity wall insulation can make a huge difference to a home’s comfort and energy efficiency, but only if it’s done right. The biggest issues tend to come from skipping surveys, using the wrong materials, or cutting corners on when installation is carried out. Mistake might at first seem small but the impact of getting things wrong can be expensive.

If you’re considering cavity wall insulation, my advice is to take your time, do your research and undertake it properly to make sure it lasts. You can read more on how to insulate a house as well as how long does insulation last in my in-depth pieces on the topics.

Have a professional survey carried out, check installer’s credentials, verify that the materials will be properly handling and installed. Once the installation is complete, keep an eye on how it performs and carry out simple maintenance to prevent problems developing.

Commonly known as the "silent killer," carbon monoxide leaks can be incredibly difficult to detect, as the gas is both odourless and silent.

Since exposure can have fatal consequences, it’s important to be well-informed about the signs, causes, symptoms and preventive measures you can take, which our experts have explained below.

From installing a carbon monoxide detector to getting annual checks from a Gas Safe engineer to prevent things like boiler problems, there are many steps you can take to keep your home and family safe throughout the year.

What are the signs of a carbon monoxide leak?

Carbon monoxide leaks can be hard to spot, but Adam Knight, Lead Engineer at BOXT, says to look out for the following signs:

• A soft yellow flame instead of a clear blue one
• Sooty marks around the boiler or vents
• Leaks and heavy condensation (specifically on the inside of window panes)
• Pilot lights that keep going out
• Unusual smells (which can be anything out of the ordinary coming from the appliance)
• New or unusual boiler noises, such as banging, whistling, humming or clicking
• Symptoms consistent with carbon monoxide exposure

What should you do if there’s been a carbon monoxide leak?

If you suspect a carbon monoxide leak or have noticed any of the signs above, Adam Knight recommends taking these steps:

1. Switch off the appliance
2. Turn off the gas if it's safe to do so
3. Open your windows to ventilate the area
4. Leave the property immediately
5. Contact a Gas Safe engineer or call the National Gas Emergency number on 0800 111 999 before anyone goes back inside.

How to prevent a carbon monoxide leak

To prevent a carbon monoxide leak, make sure your home is fitted with working safety alarms (smoke and carbon monoxide), and remember to test them regularly.

Adam Knight also advises avoiding blocked flues, chimneys, or vents, and staying alert to warning signs such as changes in flame colour, sooty marks, leaks, unusual smells or noises, heavy condensation, or unexplained increases in energy bills.

He adds, "Prevention starts with annual checks from a Gas Safe registered engineer (like the annual servicing BOXT can arrange)."

What causes a carbon monoxide leak?

Carbon monoxide leaks can be caused by a number of factors, including blocked flues, chimneys, or vents, as well as ignoring the warning signs above, which can ultimately lead to an incident.

Adam Knight adds, "Carbon monoxide leaks can be caused by faulty or poorly maintained boilers or gas appliances, particularly if they have not had annual checks by a Gas Safe registered engineer."

Symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning

If you have been exposed to carbon monoxide, you may experience the following symptoms:

• Headache
• Dizziness
• Shortness of breath
• Confusion
• Weakness
• Chest and muscle pain
• Nausea

Dhara Patel, Physician Association at Kuon Healthcare, warns, "CO exposure symptoms can be delayed, and it may be a long time until symptoms are first felt. While symptoms may improve after some time in fresh air, medical advice should be sought.

"Children, pregnant people, elderly people, and people with heart or lung diseases are the most at risk. If any such symptoms are present, or confusion, vomiting, or loss of consciousness are present, it is critical to seek medical help."

CO gas prevents the brain and heart from getting the oxygen they need, making it extremely hazardous to your health, explains Dhara. In extreme cases, exposure may even lead to unconsciousness or death.

According to the National Institute for Health and Care Excellence, approximately 40 people in England and Wales die each year from carbon monoxide poisoning. Incidents are more common during the winter, when heating appliances are used regularly.

Feeling unsure whether your heating system needs an upgrade? Read our expert guide on when to replace a boiler and learn about the different types of boilers you might want to consider.

Heat pumps installed in UK homes are cutting energy bills by more than £200 a year when they are properly designed and set up, according to a major new study.

Researchers analysing real-world data from hundreds of households found the systems are performing far better than earlier trials suggested, delivering lower costs, higher comfort, and reduced carbon emissions.

The findings challenge lingering doubts about whether heat pumps can work efficiently in Britain’s existing housing stock.

What the study found

The research, led by the University of Oxford and published in Energy and Buildings, analysed real-world data from hundreds of UK households using ground and air-source heat pumps.

The data was voluntarily shared by homeowners through the online platform HeatpumpMonitor.org, covering a wide range of housing types, ages, and heat pump models.

Unlike earlier government-backed trials that reported relatively poor performance, these real-life systems achieved efficiency levels nearly 40% higher.

As a result, households with well-optimised heat pumps were found to be saving, on average, around £224 per year compared with heating the same homes using gas boilers. The study also showed improved comfort and a much smaller carbon footprint.

How heat pumps achieved these savings

The key factor behind the improved performance was quality installation and setup. Researchers found that the most efficient systems were properly sized for the home, rather than oversized, and ran continuously at lower temperatures instead of switching on and off in short bursts.

Efficient systems typically operated with radiator temperatures of 35°C to 40°C, far lower than the 50°C to 60°C used by gas boilers.

Lower temperatures allow heat pumps to extract and deliver heat more smoothly, using much less electricity per unit of heat produced. Correct calibration of controls ensured homes stayed warm while avoiding unnecessary energy use.

How the £200 saving was calculated

The annual saving figure was calculated by comparing the actual electricity costs of running a well-performing heat pump with the estimated gas costs of heating the same home using a modern gas boiler.

Researchers used real energy consumption data from households and applied current UK gas and electricity prices to both scenarios.

Because the studied heat pumps delivered much more heat per unit of electricity than expected, their running costs were lower than those of gas boilers despite higher electricity prices.

On average, this resulted in a saving of £224 per household per year, assuming similar comfort levels. The study emphasises that these savings depend on good installation, proper system design and user guidance.

Barn conversions offer unique charm and spacious living, but their open-plan layouts and often historic structures can present challenges when it comes to efficient barn conversion heating.

They are definitely not a "formula solution" product and come in very many different shapes and sizes. Mix these size and spatial differences in with a potentially rural location, and although you have the recipe for a unique and beautiful home, you also face the challenge of a rather complex set of parameters for a successful heating system.

In this article, energy expert, David Hilton explores the various heating options available for barn conversions, considering their unique characteristics and offers practical advice for creating a warm and comfortable home.

Factors influencing your barn conversion heating

The two main key performance details for any home are insulation and draft proofing (air tightness). Insulation is the mechanical separation between a cold and warm area which slows down heat transfer. The thicker, and better performing it is, the better.

More is always better but there comes a point where there will inevitably be diminishing returns, meaning there is a level of when you can have too much insulation.

Adding insulation however does become very difficult if you have visible architectural features – which can be common in a barn conversion.

As an example you may have very ornate structural roof trusses that you want to retain. You could wrap the insulation around the truss ends, but ideally the insulation should be placed on top of the sarking. You will ideally need to strip the roof covering (tiles, slate, metal), insulate above the trusses, re-membrane the roof and then replace the cladding.

Dealing with air tightness in a barn conversion

However, a highly-insulated wind tunnel is also not a very efficient space, so it is as important to also exclude as many drafts as possible. Every detail needs to be looked at including all the penetrations through the walls including, doors, windows, drains, pipework and other services.

Historic or listed buildings will have the added difficulty of overcoming any listed details and also maintaining the historical merits of the building. Any repairs should be done respectfully.

Structural repair is often better than replacing the elements with new materials, especially if they are exposed features that are part of the architectural merit of the building. The repair should now be part of the modern history of the building.

However, while traditional barns with timber post-and-beam structures, large open plan areas and high vaulted ceilings, are fantastically beautiful buildings, the nature of the frame is that the timber continually moves as the temperature, humidity and seasons change.

This movement makes air tightness very difficult to maintain and also allows for small gaps to form around the insulation, especially around corners, at the plate levels where the roof joins the wall, or where the wall meets the floor, as well as any penetrations through the walls such as windows, doors, drainage, ventilation or plumbing and electrical services.

A leaky building will have a higher turnover of air and because the air holds heat, the heat loss will be greater and the heating costs higher. As the heat loss increases so does the necessity for higher temperatures in the heat emitters (radiators or underfloor heating), and this can sometimes be a limiting factor when it comes to choosing what technology will deliver the heat to the home.

Choosing the best heat emitters for your barn conversion

A good heat loss calculation, that takes into account the insulation and air tightness, is vital when it comes to choosing the right type of heat emitter for your barn conversion. Heat will also rise up into the vaulted area of the roof which increases the volume that needs to be heated.

The open plan nature of these homes often leaves less wall area for radiators and greater distances between the radiators. To avoid cold spots it is best to plan underfloor heating in the open plan areas, as that way the heat is evenly spread across the floor.

For underfloor heating the harder the flooring surface finish, the better it is for heat transfer. Tiles or concrete are the best, then engineered wood flooring and finally carpets. Carpets are not ideal and any carpet with a tog value of more than 2.5 should be avoided.

Also be aware that underfloor heating is not always on. If you have an efficient home, then the floor heating will turn off when the room reaches the required target temperature.

It is important to balance the floor heating to put in as little heat as possible for the longest period , rather than a hot floor for a short time, but it may also be prudent to use a compromise floor finish such as engineered floor boards in a more efficient home, as the floor will not feel as cool as tiles when the floor is off.

Underfloor heating is very slow to react so should not only be set at the lowest flow temperature, but also should not be turned off, especially if you are running the central heating from a heat pump.

Secondary heat emitters for your barn conversion

As well as your main heating emitters, you can also consider secondary heating appliances such as wood burning stoves. As well as adding ambiance, they also have the ability to heat the space rapidly.

If the barn is air-tight then using a wood burner with a direct air intake (DAI) is best practice so that the air quality in the room is not affected but the combustion process in the burner.

A wood burner with a back boiler can be used, but be very sure that the system is designed with the barn, and occupancy, in mind so that you do not end up with overheating.

Back boilers also cool down the burn so you need to make sure that the burner manages this so you do not have excess products of combustion such as soot and ash.

Shop for heat emitters for your barn conversion

Picking the best heat source for your barn conversion

As your heat emitters only work when connected to a heat source, you'll also need to weigh up what is best for your barn conversion.

Heat pumps do not burn a fuel. Instead they transfer heat into the home in a slow and gentle way. Air source heat pumps move heat from the air outside the property and ground source heat pumps move heat from the ground around the property, but the way they deliver the heat to the home is the same: Low and slow.

For best efficiency, by all means turn the temperature in the area down, say by around 3 degrees, at times when you are not using that space, but do not turn it off. The reheat times of many underfloor heating systems, especially those bedded in a screed or slab, can be long and it is much less efficient to run the heat pump on a reheat as it needs to work harder.

If the barn requires continual high temperatures to keep it warm, then a heat pump might not be the solution. There are heat pumps that can reach higher temperatures but at a compromised efficiency and a lower output.

Biomass boilers on the other hand, naturally produce high temperatures and use a renewable and sustainable fuel source that can potentially be zero carbon. High temperatures are however better suited to radiator based central heating systems.

The radiators can operate at higher flow temperatures delivering high grade heat rapidly to the room. Although high temperature boilers can be used with underfloor heating, the temperature will need to be blended cooler to avoid thermal shock to the floor, as this can cause damage such as screed or tile cracking, as well as discolouration on luxury vinyl type flooring.

Managing heat and humidity in a barn conversion

In vaulted roof areas the warm air that rises into the roof area needs to be de-stratified, either by fitting destratification fans to push the heat back down again, or by designing a whole house mechanical ventilation heat recovery (MVHR) system to do the job for you.

An MVHR system is also a good idea if you have achieved reasonable air-tightness as they keep the home ventilated at the right rate for the occupancy, and also balance the humidity with the external humidity, which helps reduce timber movement and mould growth.

Barns can make great homes. Just be sure to plan the heating strategy and technology solution at a very early stage in the conversion. The heating system must compliment the architecture and materials used in the building, and be carefully planned and controlled.

Sometimes a mix of different solutions is required so early engagement with the installers and design teams is crucial for the best outcome.

Retrofitting central heating systems to already completed barn conversions is disruptive, expensive and does not always deliver on your expectations meaning your barn conversion costs could escalate if you don't get it right from the off.

UK households are being urged to take immediate action after the Office for Product Safety and Standards (OPSS) expanded its recall of heat pump tumble dryers.

Around 85,000 machines remain at risk of internal short circuits, which can cause fires during normal use. The appliances, manufactured by Haier and sold under multiple brands including Candy, Baumatic, Caple, Hoover, Iberna, Lamona, and Montpellier, must not be used until repaired.

This follows an earlier August 2025 recall affecting 17,000 dryers that had been modified but were still unsafe.

Expanded recall after initial fix fails

Earlier this year, the safety watchdog ordered a product recall for 17,000 heat pump tumble dryers and ordered a safety modification to be performed, but this has been said to be a failure.

This has prompted the OPSS to halt Haier’s repair programme as they were deemed "inadequate".

Investigations revealed that even dryers previously repaired could still overheat and pose a fire risk. Following further testing and approval of an updated safety fix, Haier resumed its corrective programme.

The latest warning now focuses on 85,000 machines that have not yet been repaired, while also revisiting dryers that received the ineffective first fix. OPSS says it is working closely with Haier to ensure all affected households are identified and contacted promptly.

Brands and models affected

The recall covers dryers manufactured by Haier and sold under eight brands: Baumatic, Candy, Caple, Hoover, Haier, Iberna, Lamona, and Montpellier.

OPSS has published a full list of model numbers and serial numbers online. Consumers are advised to check their appliances carefully before using them again.

The risk comes from an internal short circuit during normal operation, which can cause the machine to overheat and ignite even when left unattended.

What homeowners must do to stay safe

Owners of affected dryers are instructed to stop using the appliance immediately and unplug it if safely accessible. They should check their model and serial number online and contact Haier to arrange the updated repair.

Haier said: “Customer safety is our top priority. We are working closely with the OPSS to ensure all affected machines are repaired promptly.”

The regulator reinforced the urgency: “Owners of affected dryers must stop using their appliances immediately. The risk of fire is real, and these precautions are necessary to prevent potential harm.”

The recall highlights the challenge of ensuring household appliance safety while maintaining energy efficiency as heat pump dryers become more common.

While adding loft insulation is certainly one way to improve your home's energy efficiency, making loft insulation mistakes can result in your hard work backfiring and leading to more problems than you even started with.

However, follow the correct advice on how to insulate a loft and there's no doubt you and your home will reap the rewards.

With building and roofing experts to hand, we're here to explain the most common loft insulation mistakes homeowners make so you can avoid a future that sees you ripping out your hard work and starting over again.

Mistake one: lack of ventilation

If you weren't aware there is such a thing as too much insulation, you may be heading towards making one of the most common loft insulation mistakes – over filling your loft with insulation that can lead to a lack of essential ventilation.

"It's very common for homeowners to insulate their lofts right up the edges or eaves of a roof, as the common perception is that if they don't, cold air will enter into the loft space and this needs to be avoided at all costs," says Mike Storey, roofing expert at UK Flat Roofing & Insulation.

"However, this isn't entirely true, says Mike. "Loft ventilation gaps are essential as they allow allow any moisture build-up to dissipate. The most common insulation material used in a loft is loft roll, and as soon as this get damp or wet its thermal value is ruined, meaning its performance is reduced significantly," he warns.

“If you block eaves vents or air bricks in lofts then this will only lead to problems,” confirms building expert, Mark Stevenson. “Your once dry loft will soon become a haven for damp and mould.”

The solution? “Make sure you have ventilation paths when insulating your loft," advises Mark. "This means using cross flow vent trays that are fitted between the rafters at the eaves, letting air continue to flow throughout the space.”

Mistake two: Poor installation

If, as part of your loft improvement measures you're considering boarding your loft in order to create loft storage space, this next mistake is one you need to bear in mind.

Although maximising on storage space may be the goal, this doesn't mean you can cram your loft insulation below the boards and hope for the best.

"A common loft insulation mistake we see us homeowners putting the loft roll into the joist space and then boarding directly over it," confirms Mike Storey.

"This will squash or compress the insulation, and as loft roll uses the air trapped between the glass fibre strands to work, compressing it to a thickness less than it's designed to be, stops it from working correctly," warns Mike.

The required amount for loft insulation in accordance with Part L of the building regulations will depend on whether you are building a new self build or refurbishing an existing property.

However, when renovating a house, you'll likely find that the maths doesn't quite work out – making this particular loft insulation mistake an easy one to make.

"Standard joists are commonly only 150mm - 200mm deep in most roofs, meaning the insulation is automatically higher," explains Mike. "Your best solution is always to use a product such as Loft Legs to increase the space before adding boards on top of the legs.

"Always add 50mm of ventilation gap above the insulation and below the timber floor that is connected to the eaves on both sides," advises Mike, "or you will end up with damp issues caused by loft condensation."

Mistake three: Gaps in the wrong places

Although the argument for leaving gaps to allow for airflow still stands when installing loft insulation, it's not always the case when using the warm roof method for insulating your loft. This is when the roof is insulated – most commonly with insulation boards – rather than insulating at floor level between the joists.

"Even the tiniest of gaps can lead to problems in this instance," confirms Mark Stevenson. "Gaps can result in cold spots, loss of heat and potentially issues again with mould and condensation."

"The correct way to insulate at this level is to ensure you have ventilation above and below, and a breather membrane installed," advises Mike Storey. "Then, always ensure the boards are taped up along the joints and at the edges. Also make sure that any damage to the foil on the board is taped, as otherwise this will compromise your vapour barrier layer.

"If it's a multifoil system ensure that they are taped up between each roll and around the edges," he adds. "This prevents moisture getting into the roof. You will still need ventilation at the eaves, above the insulation in order to prevent any moisture build up, but making sure it's neatly fitted is essential."

Shop for loft insulation products

Mistake four: Using the wrong insulation or method

Choosing the right type of insulation, and how and where to install it is the best way to avoid making loft insulation mistakes in general, but how do you know?

If you're embarking on a loft conversion, you'll need to consider insulating at roof and floor level to make the space habitable. But what if it's just for storage?

"Start by checking if the items in the loft need to be stored at room temperature, or if they can fluctuate between being hot in summer and cold in winter," suggests Mike Storey. Fully insulating the space will give you maximum insulation, but this may not be necessary.

Using the right product is also key, warns Mark Stevenson. "Too often people rush to insulate without understanding that there isn't a one-size-fits-all approach. Spray foam insulation used in between roof rafters is a prime example. This can lead to rotting timbers and expensive repairs.

"If you aren't sure what product is best for your loft, make sure you consult with an expert first in order to pick the best solution," he advises.

If after reading this you think it might be time for an upgrade, make sure you follow our guide to removing loft insulation safely, and work out your budget with our guide to loft replacement costs.

And finally, if you've suddenly realised there's an unwanted gap in the form of a 'bare' loft hatch, take the time to insulate your loft hatch too.

If you're in the market for an oil-filled radiator, it's important to consider the size before making your purchase. They can be one of the best radiators if you're searching for a portable option, but choosing the wrong one can negatively affect their efficiency and how comfortable your room feels.

These portable appliances come in a variety of sizes, ranging from small units with around 80W of power to larger models reaching up to 2500W. When selecting the right one for your home, you'll need to consider both the room size and the level of insulation.

To help you determine which size oil-filled radiator you should buy, we called in the experts to explain everything you need to know. Below, you'll find the calculations to make, how to tell if yours is the wrong size, and what can happen if it is.

How to size an oil-filled radiator

With a heat calculator:
To get the most accurate results, Nick Duggan, Managing Director of The Radiator Centre, recommends using an online heat calculator (like this one by B&Q) to determine your specific requirements. After entering your room’s dimensions and type of insulation, windows, and outside wall, the results will be shown in either watts or BTUs (British Thermal Units).

Nick says, "All radiators will state an output in either watts, BTUs or both. By knowing how much heat each radiator will emit, you can now find the best one to efficiently heat each room based on your earlier heat calculation."

Without a heat calculator:
If you prefer to work it out yourself, Nicholas Aukland, Managing Director of Trade Radiators, says to multiply the room’s square meterage by 100 watts for a standard ceiling height with average insulation.

For example: 20 m² room = 2,000 watts

However, if your room is poorly insulated or has particularly high ceilings, you’ll need to add around 10 to 20% on top of that figure. So, the example above would become 2,200 to 2,400 watts.

Nicholas adds, "Most radiator manufacturers will provide sizing guides and all models should list their output in watts so you can match the heater to the space with fairly little trouble."

Shop these top-rated oil-filled radiators

How does the size of an oil-filled radiator affect efficiency?

If your radiator is undersized...
Nicholas Aukland explains that by choosing a radiator that’s too small for your room, you’ll end up running it on the highest setting for long stretches of time – after all that, your room will still feel cold!

Nick Duggan adds, "An undersized radiator leads to uneven heat, cold patches and higher electricity use because the appliance never gets a break."

If your radiator is oversized...
Bigger isn’t always better when it comes to radiator size; an oversized model can make the room heat up too quickly and feel uncomfortably stuffy. Nicholas explains that the thermostat will cut in and out repeatedly, and you’ll just end up switching it off because it feels too overwhelming.

Nick Duggan says, "An oversized one short cycles, which is inefficient and uncomfortable, and can create a humid, heavy feeling in the room that makes the space feel smaller. Getting the output right for the room avoids these issues and keeps the temperature stable without wasting energy."

Signs your oil-filled radiator is the wrong size

If you think your radiator is the wrong size, look out for these tell-tale signs, explained by Nicholas Aukland:

It's undersized if...

• You feel heat pooling right beside the unit while the rest of the room stays chilly
• The unit runs flat out for long stretches
• The thermostat rarely clicks off
• You feel you need to sit close to stay warm
• The fins feel very hot but the far wall or corners remain cool, which is often a mix of too little surface area and poor airflow

It's oversized if...

• You get rapid temperature rises and frequent thermostat clicks followed by short, repeated on‑off cycles
• The room can feel stuffy, then cool again a few minutes later
• You want to crack open a window to dump heat
• Overheat cut‑outs trip out

However, Nicholas adds: "Some of the same symptoms can come from placement, so check that fins are not blocked by furniture or drying clothes, doors are closed to stop heat escaping, and draughts are managed before deciding the size is wrong."

To prevent wasting energy, money, and time, it's important to choose the correct size before installing a radiator. By following these calculation tips and watching for the signs mentioned above, you can ensure your heater is the right fit.

If you're unclear whether an oil-filled radiator is the best choice for your home, explore the different heat emitters available, as explained by the experts.

If you're in the process of choosing a heat emitter, you might consider an oil‑filled radiator and wonder how they work. Renowned for their energy‑efficient and portable design, these radiators are a popular choice in many households and offer a number of benefits.

Oil‑filled radiators are a type of electric radiator and typically feature a plug‑in design. While some models can be wall-mounted, they are usually freestanding, making them easy to move from room to room.

Despite being a common appliance, few people know how oil-filled radiators actually work, so we've called in the experts to explain everything you need to know below. If you're curious about how they function, whether the oil needs topping up, or if they're worth the investment, keep reading.

How do oil-filled radiators work?

"Oil-filled radiators work by heating a reservoir of oil sealed inside the unit," explains Nicholas Auckland, Managing Director of Trade Radiators. "The oil is warmed by an electric heating element, and once heated, it circulates within the radiator’s fins. This stores and radiates heat steadily into the room."

Since this type of radiator doesn't blow air, it's quiet and comfortable for continuous use and is suitable for noise-sensitive rooms. According to Nick Duggan, Managing Director of The Radiator Centre, these heaters can stay warm for 30 minutes to over an hour after they’ve stopped drawing electricity, which is why they’re such an efficient choice.

Are oil-filled radiators any good?

Yes, oil-filled radiators are a good choice for heating small to medium-sized rooms, providing a steady, even warmth.

You can pick one up for around £30, and running costs can be as little as 15p per hour (based on current kWh rates with a 500W model). They’re an excellent way to heat a single room locally without having to turn on your central heating.

Unlike other portable heaters, such as fan heaters and convector heaters, oil-filled radiators are very quiet and are usually safe to leave on overnight, making them a suitable choice for bedrooms if you want an undisturbed night’s sleep.

While these radiators offer many benefits, whether they’re worth it will depend on your heating needs and preferences, explains Nick Duggan.

He says, "They may take longer to warm up, but their efficiency and low maintenance often make up for these drawbacks over time. However, if you need instant heat or have limited space, you might want to consider other options."

Pros and cons of oil-filled radiators

Before you install an oil-filled radiator, it's important to consider both the pros and cons. Here's what Nick Duggan wants you to know:

Pros

• Energy-efficient: As previously mentioned, these radiators retain heat well (even after they’ve been switched off), which helps you save energy.
• Quiet: Ideal for bedrooms and offices, you won’t be disturbed by fans or blowers.
• Consistent heating: Oil-filled radiators don’t create hot or cold spots, so you can enjoy an even, comfortable warmth.
• Hassle-free: Contrary to popular belief, you won’t need to worry about topping them up with oil or carrying out any maintenance.
• Safe and healthy: These radiators often come with safety features like tip-over protection and overheating prevention to give you peace of mind. Since they don’t dry out the air or consume oxygen, they help maintain good air quality too.
• Portable: Oil-filled radiators can warm areas of your home that a conventional heater can’t reach, simply because you can pick it up and move it wherever you need it.

Cons

• Slow to heat up: Compared to other emitters, you may have to wait a little longer for oil-filled radiators to warm up.
• Higher initial cost: While still generally affordable, oil-filled radiators tend to be more expensive than basic space heaters.
• Limited directional heating: You won’t be able to focus the heat in a specific direction.
• Bulkiness: They are often bulkier and heavier than other portable heaters, which might not be ideal for small spaces.
• Hot surface: Something to keep in mind if you have small children or pets – the exterior can become very hot during operation, which could result in burns if touched.

Do you have to refill oil-filled radiators?

This is a question Nick Duggan is asked a lot, but the answer is no – you don’t need to top up an oil-filled radiator with oil.

Nicholas Auckland explains that the oil simply acts as a heat reservoir, allowing the radiator to provide warmth without sudden temperature swings or frequent cycling.

If you don't mind the bulkiness and waiting a little longer for them to heat up, oil-filled radiators can be a great, energy-efficient choice for your home that doesn’t require complicated maintenance. Now that you have all the information about how they work, you can decide whether they’re right for your needs.

To learn more, read our comparison of oil-filled radiators vs. convector heaters, or check out this feature on why one writer uses an oil-filled radiator to stay warm while working from home.

Over the past few years heat pumps have become ever more popular as a home heating solution. But, despite the Boiler Upgrade Scheme incentive, they are still more expensive to install than gas boilers.

This means, when it comes to deciding if you want to choose an air source heat pump for your self build or renovation, most of us want to know just what its lifespan is in order to understand how long your investment will cover you for.

in this article, energy expert, David Hilton explains how to the potential life of a heat pump is calculated, so you can understand what might be the outcome when you choose one to heat your home.

How long do heat pumps last?

To determine how long a heat pump runs we use what is referred to as FLEQ hours. This stands for the 'Full Load Equivalent', which is the number of hours that the heat pump runs per year, based on its full load.

Breaking it down, this means if a heat pump was running at half capacity for 2 hours that would be deemed as 1 hour of FLEQ.

With a correctly sized heat pump installed in your home, the average number of FLEQ hours per year is 1800 hours for space heating, and then another 600 hours for hot water. If you run it within these parameters, and have regular annual services, then in general, you can expect the heat pump to last between 20 and 25 years.

Although there is a caveat to this. How long a heat pump lasts can also be influenced by the type of refrigerant compressor in your heat pump. Why? This is the hardest working component of a heat pump, and not all compressors are the same.

There are a number of different types of compressors, each with different qualities. The most common types of compressors used in heat pumps are either scroll compressors, rotary compressors or reciprocating compressors. Scroll compressors are often considered the better compressors for heat pumps as they have less moving parts and are often more efficient than the others. They are however more expensive.

A good compressor usually has a 10 year warranty, but, once again, there are some specific details that influence the effective life of a compressor.

The compressor is happy to run steadily, but what stresses and wears it is start-ups. So, even if you are within the FLEQ hours tolerance, if the compressor has many short start – stop cycles then the life expectancy of your heat pump will be less.

You can think of it a bit like a car. If you do many long distance journeys, then you will find that the car will potentially do more miles in its lifetime than a vehicle that is only used for frequent short trips.

Heat pump vs boiler life span

In the past, most of us will have had different types of boiler in our homes (mainly gas or oil), and when it needed replacing the calculations were a bit simpler. It was common knowledge that better quality boilers would cost a bit more, but last a bit longer, and we would find the happy medium between cost and quality to suit our home and budget.

That said, there are still differing anecdotes as to how long they last.

Some industry bodies claim that a condensing boiler will only last an average of seven years. Personally, I think you would be unlucky if that were the case. However, as with a heat pump, the life expectancy of a boiler is dependent on a number of things so the point at which you need to replace a boiler may differ.

If the boiler works a lot harder in a busy home, then it may not last as long as a boiler in a home with lower occupancy and / or lower heat loss, and better controls.

Marine environments are also detrimental to boilers as the sea air will be more corrosive to the heat exchanger. A good annual service is also critical to keep a boiler in optimal condition and prolong its useful life.

With all these things taken into account, I would say that a well maintained condensing boiler should last around 10 to 15 years depending on work load. Although there may be some differences depending on if it is an open vent (with gravity tanks in the loft) system, or unvented system. These different types of boilers are built differently and can also perform differently.

Improving the life span of a heat pump

As with a boiler, a heat pump also regular maintenance and servicing to optimise efficiency. It's also important that you operate them in the correct way.

Heat pumps like to run steadily. They prefer delivering heat ‘low and slow’ rather than ‘hot and fast’ like a boiler, but as a heat pump has more working parts than a boiler, and air source heat pump installation takes place outside the home, there are an additional few things that influence its useful life expectancy.

All external pipework, wiring and equipment needs to be protected from the elements, so it is important to make sure that any insulation is intact and that there are no leaks or corrosion.

Poor maintenance can lead to air or moisture getting into the system. Excess heat loss from the pipework, or the heat pump having to work far harder than it needs to, can also result in poor performance and excessive running costs. If the heat pump works hard, and is not maintained, then it may not last as long as expected.

When all things are considered, a heat pump should last longer than a boiler, and even though a heat pump costs more to install, as they become more mainstream the higher volumes will inevitably also bring more competition, and more competitive prices.

Of course, when it comes to replacing your heat pump, you also won't be installing it again from scratch which will make it a more comparable exercise to replacing a boiler with a like-for-like system.

Always start your heat pump journey by informing yourself with as much knowledge as you can about this type of heating system. Start with our easy 5 point checklist to see if your home is suitable for a heat pump, and make sure you understand the difference between low, medium and high temperature heat pumps to establish which one is best for your home.

If your pipes are making noise when the water is turned on, don’t panic; you are not alone. It’s not an uncommon occurrence when taps are turned on or a heating system kicks in. Most of the time, banging, rattling and whistling pipes are not a big issue.

However, noisy pipes can indicate problems that need attention. Radiators not heating up properly and spluttering taps can be caused from air in the system. But it might be something more serious. Here, we explore the common causes, how to fix them, and whether it’s time to call a professional.

Pipes making noise: Common causes and solutions

Noisy pipes can be caused by a host of different issues. Here, we look at the most common causes and possible ways to fix the problem, so your ears can get a rest.

1. Water hammer effect

This is a common reason for noisy pipes. Lincoln Smith, managing director of Custom Heat, explains: "Water hammer is that loud banging noise you hear when you turn a tap off quickly. It's caused by long runs of pipework where the water at the far end stops instantly when you shut off a quarter-turn tap, but the water further back in the pipe is still travelling forward, creating that hammering sound.”

Smith continues, “The most effective solution is to avoid excessive single lengths of pipework when designing a system.” He adds, “You can also fit devices like non-return valves and shock arresters that absorb the pressure difference caused by the sudden shut-off.”

However, there could be a simpler and cheaper solution to try first, suggests Smith, “Water hammer tends to happen more with quarter turn lever taps than traditional screw down taps because the shut off is more abrupt." So a change of taps might help with the issue.

Try these to help stop noisy pipes

2. High water pressure

High water pressure can be an issue, as Smith explains, "High water pressure doesn't usually cause noise issues on its own, except when taps are running. " He adds, "If your taps sound like a fireman's hose when they're open, that's a sign your water pressure may be too high and worth checking."

Jess Thomas, managing director of Drainage Central, adds, “However, high water pressure can cause whistling or humming in pipes.” He adds, “This is a result of the pipes vibrating, which can cause leaks or damage fixtures.”

A solution is to call in a professional, Thomas suggests, “Ask a plumber to install a pressure regulator as this can be adjusted to lower the water pressure.”

3. Loose fittings

Poor installation or general wear and tear can lead to loose fittings, but there is a simple solution, shares Smith, “Inspect the pipework runs, make sure all clips are secure and any nuts and bolts are properly tightened.”

He adds, “Anywhere a pipe passes through something or comes into contact with another surface, there should be a barrier material, whether that's rubber, felt, or a copper sleeve. This allows for expansion and prevents the pipe from rattling against solid surfaces."

4. Blockages

Blockages can occur in any pipework, but a kitchen waste pipe is particularly prone to food waste accumulation. This can be quickly dealt with, says Thomas, “If you think there is a blockage causing noisy pipes, you can try to use a plunger or drain snake to dislodge or manually break up the blockage.”

Smith points out another telltale sign if the issue is with your heating system: “If radiators have partial debris buildup rather than complete blockages, you can get hissing noises coming from them.” He adds, “Another telltale sign is a really foul smell when you bleed a radiator, which indicates a buildup of debris that's giving off gas."

5. Air in the pipes

If there is air in pipes, Thomas says, “You can expect to find that water sputters when the taps are turned on, the pipes make unusual noises, or there is inconsistent water pressure. He recommends the following steps to remove air from your pipework.

• Drain water Turn off the mains water supply by locating the stopcock valve, usually beneath the kitchen sink. Turn on all of the taps to drain the water, starting on the top floor of your home. Repeatedly flush the toilets until no water remains.
• Turn off and on Turn off all of the taps, and then turn on each tap again. Turn them on just enough to allow a small amount of water to escape, as this will let trapped air escape when the system is turned back on. At this point, you should not actually see any water running out of the taps.
• Flush out any air Turn the mains water supply back on, and water should begin to flow through the slightly opened taps. Beginning on the top floor of your home, turn on all taps until they are half open. Then turn all of the taps back on full to flush to release any remaining trapped air. When each tap is successfully dispensing water, they can be turned off as air should no longer be trapped in the system.

If there is air in the heating system, Smith says, “Air in the system can cause clattering and banging noises, particularly when the heating first starts up," he adds, "This is especially common with older traditional heating systems. When the boiler fires up and the pump kicks in, if air is trapped in the pump, you'll hear a distinctive, bubbly, gurgling noise, sometimes accompanied by clattering.”

These noises should clear naturally after a few weeks into the heating season as the air works its way out. However, if the noises continue, Smith says, “If you're still hearing them after that period, it's best to call a heating professional because the system might be drawing air in from somewhere. There could be a blockage on an outlet causing it to pull air in on an inlet, and that needs investigating."

6. Thermal expansion

The temperature of the water in pipes will fluctuate, and this causes specific noise, as Smith explains, “Ticking or clicking noises are another common issue we see. These are usually caused by thermal expansion.”

He adds, “Heating pipes, whether they're copper or plastic, naturally expand as they heat up. As they pass through wooden joists or plasterboard in your home, this expansion causes them to rub against the building fabric, creating that distinctive ticking sound.”

To help stop the noise, Smith says, "The solution is to use proper protection where pipes pass through structural elements.” He adds, “We use a felt-based product called hair felt anywhere pipes pass through wood or plaster.”

For other materials, he suggests something else: “Where pipes go through brickwork, they should have protective sleeves. This cushioning material allows the pipes to expand freely without making noise."

Costs to call out a plumber to fix noisy pipes

If you need to call out a plumber to inspect, Smith says, "Callout costs vary depending on your location and the complexity of the issue.” He adds, “As a general guide, you're typically looking at anywhere from £80 to £200.”

Smith continues, “The final cost depends on what needs doing, whether it's something simple like bleeding radiators and checking for loose fittings, or something more involved like fitting shock arresters, replacing worn components, or power flushing a system with debris buildup."

Thomas reveals the typical rates for a plumber: “Expect to pay an average of around £50 an hour or up to £350 a day.” He adds, “If it is an emergency call out, you can expect to usually pay around double the plumber's normal rate.”

How to bleed pipes

If you have trapped air in a heating system, it's simply a matter of bleeding the radiators, as Smith explains: "Air in a heating system always rises to find the highest point, which is why you bleed it through the radiators."

He continues, "If you've got upstairs towel rails, particularly the vertical ladder type, those are usually the most likely radiators to have air trapped in them because they're at the highest point in your system. It's worth checking these first if you're experiencing air problems."

If you want to know more about pipework, check out our copper vs plastic pipes guide. If you're thinking of changing taps or pipes, check out our guides on fitting a kitchen tap and fitting a kitchen sink.

With the rise of modern log burning stoves and growing political pressure to cut air pollution, the days of the traditional open fire may be numbered.

Labour’s updated Environmental Improvement Plan (EIP) puts domestic emissions under new scrutiny, and experts say open fireplaces are the “worst offenders” when it comes to household air pollution.

But industry leaders insist cleaner, affordable alternatives already exist for homeowners who still want the glow of real flames.

Open fires 'incompatible' with the UK’s new clean-air targets

The government’s updated EIP tightens limits on PM2.5 - the most harmful particulate pollution – and opens a consultation on domestic burning. According to Calvin May, Head of Technical Services at HETAS, this is both expected and necessary.

“Open fireplaces are among the most polluting, expensive and inefficient ways to burn wood, and their continued use is incompatible with the government’s ambition to reduce annual PM2.5 limits and improve air quality,” he says.

The industry stresses that criticism should not be aimed at households: “Blanket bans or placing the blame on households trying to keep warm this winter are not the way forward,” May adds. Instead, the focus should be on phasing out the most polluting setups – open fires – while helping homeowners transition safely.

Cleaner choice stoves already meet future targets

While open fires face scrutiny, modern appliances are ahead of the curve.

May explains that wood burners, multifuel stoves and pellet stoves that meet Cleaner Choice standards already meet potential EIP targets, proving that the technology is ready for stricter regulation.

“Industry has already delivered dramatic improvements in emissions through innovation and best practices, with existing policy supporting this,” he says. PM2.5 emissions from domestic combustion have already fallen 17% between 2020 and 2023, with total UK PM2.5 down 76% since 1990.

Why fuel choice matters just as much as the stove

Even the cleanest stove can become polluting if the wrong fuel is used. Ready to Burn regulations, which ban burning wet wood and the dirtiest fuels, currently apply only in England.

“This causes confusion and means thousands of stove owners across Scotland and Wales can still buy wet wood and coal,” May warns.

HETAS is calling for consistent UK-wide rules, not only on appliances but on the fuels available to homeowners, to ensure emission reductions are meaningful and fair.

What homeowners can do next

As the consultation progresses, experts emphasise practical solutions rather than panic.

May says: “We urge policymakers to focus on practical, enforceable solutions… Phasing out open fires, supporting competent installation and professional maintenance, educating stove owners on responsible burning, and aligning fuel certification across the UK are just some ways we can meet these new targets.”

For households considering futureproof options, inspiration is easy to find – including these log burner ideas for modern interiors.

Open fires may be fading out, but clean-burning, stylish home-heating alternatives are already here - and ready for whatever the next wave of environmental regulation brings.

If there’s one part of a self build or renovation that’s easy to underestimate, it’s insulation. Most of us know it’s essential for keeping the house warm and reducing energy bills, but the reality is that insulation isn’t just about stuffing some material into walls or roofs and calling it a day.

Done wrongly, it can lead to damp, drafts, mould, and a home that’s far less comfortable than it should be.

Over the years, I’ve seen plenty of errors – the kind that quietly undo all the hard work and expense of insulating in the first place. If you’re planning an upgrade or new build, here are the most common insulation mistakes and how to avoid them.

1. Not checking if your home is suitable

Before any type of insulation is installed, its vital that it’s checked for suitability. Too often, self builders rush in and start insulating without checking if the application (cavity walls, timber frames, solid masonry walls etc) can be insulated. For example, using cavity wall insulation on a timber frame building, or spraying foam between the rafters of a roof space.

Without proper ventilation, moisture can get trapped causing rot, and insulation that gets wet or suffers thermal bypass will perform far below expectations, wasting money rather than saving it.

The solution is to always start with a professional advice. This might be a survey or an energy assessment from a qualified surveyor or designer who’ll assess the building, spot potential problems (like damp or poor ventilation), and recommend the best materials and insulation methods.

2. Choosing the wrong type of insulation

Insulation isn’t a one-size-fits-all product. Different parts of a house, such as the loft, walls, floors, or roof, will require different approaches and usually a different insulation product.

For example, fibreglass is great for dry lofts but not suitable for damp spaces. Rigid insulation boards are really effective under floors and in walls, but they’re less suitable if they need to fit awkward shapes or uneven surfaces. An obvious alternative is spray foam insulation and whilst this might look attractive, if its installed incorrectly, it can cause major problems

Most self builders will look for a product that’s very thermally efficient, but it’s also important to consider moisture resistance, fire safety, and breathability as well. Again it might be best to consult a professional who’ll understand the product and will be able to compare it with other alternatives.

Alternatively, take time to do your own research, look at the best ways to insulate a home, and read the manufacturers literature and technical information such as installation instructions and declarations of performance (DOP’s).

3. Poor installation — gaps and voids

Even the best insulation product won’t perform properly if its not installed properly. Gaps, overlaps, or over compression of quilts will affect an insulation material's actual performance. Neatly insulated lofts will be compromised by something as simple as tiny gaps, resulting in cold spots and heat loss, higher bills and potentially condensation and mould.

It’s important to pay attention to detail. Insulation should fit snugly, without being squashed or stretched. Cavities should be consistent and well-ventilated and rigid insulation materials must be cut precisely around timbers and joists.

Achieving a good job requires care, so measure twice, cut once. To help get things right, invest in innovative products such as compressible gap fillers including Compriband or Gapotape, available from Insulation Online, which will fill gaps and prevent air movement and thermal bypass.

4. Neglecting airtightness

Insulation works by slowing the transfer of heat from a warm to a cold space. But insulation on its own doesn’t stop air movement. If there are gaps around windows, floorboards, or service penetrations, heat will still escape and cold air will find its way in.

As well as installing the correct insulation product, it’s essential that airtightness is also dealt with. This means installing airtight membranes and vapours control layers along with airtight tapes and sealants to close gaps. A simple smoke test with an air pressure test will check that an installation meets the appropriate level of airtightness, and will help identify where leaks are happening so they can be sealed properly.

Try these products for insulating around windows and doors

5. Blocking ventilation paths

A common misconception is that sealing up every possible gap will make a home more energy efficient. Whilst there is some truth to this, some airflow is essential for adequate ventilation – particularly in lofts and cavities. Blocking eaves vents or air bricks prevents moisture escaping and can quickly turn a dry, healthy space into a damp, mouldy mess.

The solution is simply to maintain ventilation paths when installing insulation. With loft ventilation, cross flow vent trays fitted between the rafters at the eaves will keep air moving. For cavity wall insulation, make sure any air bricks or weep holes are not obstructed when the insulation is pumped in. A good installer will check these things both before and after an installation.

6. Ignoring existing moisture problems

Insulation and moisture typically don’t mix. If there’s an underlying damp problem, insulating over it is like painting over rust – it hides the issue but doesn’t fix it. Moisture trapped behind insulation can be even worse, causing damage to the insulation, structural members and encouraging different types of mould to grow. Once again moisture will also cause the insulation to lose its effectiveness.

The key here is to always carry out a survey and address any damp issues first. Fix leaks, improve drainage, and maintain ventilation. Once the area is dry and sound, the insulation can be installed with confidence. In moisture-prone areas like basements or ground floors, opt for specialist closed-cell insulation products designed for wet conditions. These materials won’t absorb water and will not deteriorate over time.

7. Over-insulating without proper planning

Adding layer upon layer of insulation might sound like a good idea, but can easily backfire. Beyond a certain point, extra insulation provides very little additional benefit, meaning it's important to understand how much is too much insulation. Get it wrong and it can actually create problems by restricting ventilation paths, trapping heat and in some circumstances, becoming a fire risk.

The best approach is to seek expert advice and discuss how a building element should be insulated before making alterations. A good professional will know the best option and when old, tired insulation should be removed. They’ll recommended appropriate products with thermal resistances to such the location and climatic conditions. The objective should be to achieve the right balance of insulation, ventilation, and airtightness so it properly works together. If the building becomes overly airtight, consider mechanical ventilation with heat recovery (MVHR) to maintain healthy air circulation and retain heat.

8. DIY disasters and uncertified installers

Installing insulation might look straightforward, but there’s actually much more to it than meets the eye. DIY efforts can easily go wrong – from leaving gaps and overly compressing quilts, to using the wrong type of material.

Hiring someone who isn’t properly certified or competent can also lead to problems such as wrongly installing spray foam insulation causing structural damage and resulting in insurance and saleability issues. Poor workmanship wastes money, reduces performance, and in some cases, requires costly remediation. In extreme cases properties can even become unmortgageable.

Always seek professional advice and hire qualified, experienced contractors. Look for certifications from reputable bodies such as the National Insulation Association (NIA) or TrustMark. Ask for references, check reviews, and don’t be afraid to ask questions about the appropriateness of materials, ventilation strategies, and guarantees. Professional contractors will appreciate the conversation and will be just as interested as you are in safely making improvements to your home.

For more advice on fitting insulation in the right way, take a look at our guide to installing internal wall insulation in a renovation and make sure you've allocated sufficient funds in your budget to your loft insulation costs.

With heating bills soaring, everyone is looking for a simple way to cut costs – which is where radiator booster fans could come to the rescue.

For those who have never heard of them, these gadgets attach to the bottom or top of the best radiator, drawing in cooler air from the floor, blowing it across the warm radiator surface, and then pushing the heated air quickly around the room.

To find out whether these add-ons really work (or whether they’re just another gimmick), we asked a heating expert for their opinions and put them to the test on our own radiators. Keep reading to hear our final verdict and find out whether they’re worth investing in this winter.

How do radiator fans work?

According to Nick Duggan, Managing Director of The Radiator Centre, these fans will usually sit beneath or on top of your radiator and can help speed up how quickly a room warms up.

So how do they work? Nick explains, "Heat from a radiator is generated by cooler air passing over warm surfaces and convecting around a room. A fan will draw more of that cooler air through a radiator faster, potentially generating more heat in a shorter period of time.

"Fan systems often get coupled with radiators that are being installed on a heat pump. As the temperature of the water in this system is cooler than a standard gas fired boiler, having the fans helps get more heat from a cooler radiator."

Could radiator fans reduce my heating bills?

Yes, radiator booster fans have the potential to save you money on your heating bills.

Nick Duggan explains that since they help to heat your room more quickly, your thermostatic radiator valve will sense this and close off. As a result, you won’t be consuming as much energy as before, and therefore, it could reduce your bills.

However, it’s worth keeping in mind that radiator booster fans aren’t going to make your room hotter – they simply help the room reach its set temperature at a faster rate. If you want the temperature to increase, you’ll need to adjust this via your boiler and room thermostat.

My experience with radiator booster fans

I tested SpeedComfort's radiator fans (available on Amazon) in my kitchen and office, and found them very easy to install and extremely quiet, with a volume of just 22 dB – similar to the rustling of leaves.

If you're not sure how many fans you’ll need, the website has a handy quiz that works it out for you. I found this really helpful, as I wasn’t entirely sure myself.

One thing I will say is that they don’t look particularly attractive on a column radiator, and you’ll need to buy additional hooks so they can hang from the bottom (which costs £3.50 extra). However, given the potential savings on your heating bills (22%, according to the brand), this is something I’m willing to overlook.

I’ve been on a mission this month to find the best heating hacks, and I will say that I preferred the Radlek reflectors – a reflective sheet that sits behind your radiator to reduce heat lost through poorly insulated walls.

Where to buy radiator booster fans

Radiator fans won’t magically heat your home without energy, but if you want to speed up the process and reduce your bills, they’re definitely worth considering.

For more heating tips, check out our guide on choosing the best heat emitter for your home and whether you should leave an oil-filled radiator on overnight.

There’s no doubt that winter is the worst possible time for your boiler to break down. When the weather has taken a turn for the worse and temperatures are plunging, you want your home to be as warm and cosy as possible.

What’s more, if it does break down then you could be faced with a lengthy delay while you try to choose a new boiler and, more importantly, find an available heating engineer to fit it. This is the time of year when they are busiest with installations and boiler repairs, so chances are you could be without heating and hot water for a while.

With the BOXT boiler installation service, however, the company can offer a next day installation service. Music to the ears of anyone with a boiler that has finally given up during a cold snap. To find out how easy the BOXT installation service is to use, I put it to the test to upgrade my old boiler with a newer model.

Why I wanted to upgrade my boiler

Although I have had my boiler serviced annually to ensure it’s in good working order, it’s now 14 years old and as each year passes the chance of problems developing is becoming more likely.

I've always been really pleased with my Worcester Bosch Greenstar CDi combi boiler, so I was keen to replace my boiler with something similar. I live in a three-bedroom, 1930s semi with one bathroom. I installed the boiler when I originally renovated the house 14 years ago and have had the same one ever since.

I've also upgraded the glazing throughout the house and replaced several radiators, although there are still a few more on the list to be updated as they have definitely seen better days now and don’t always heat up particularly well.

Our boiler is located in a cupboard in our kitchen and I had no plans to move it to a different location, so this install would be a straight swap from old boiler to new.

Getting started with the booking

I found the process of selecting my new boiler surprisingly straightforward. The BOXT website is easy to navigate and there are advice guides to talk you through how the process works.

I went straight to the boilers section to book my installation and had to answer a series of questions about my home and what heating setup I currently have. There’s nothing overly complicated to answer, and you’ll just need to provide responses to these sorts of questions:

• The type of fuel you use to heat your home (gas, LPG, oil)
• What type of boiler you have
• How you would describe your current boiler (old and inefficient, not working, doesn’t fit with your plans)
• Whether it’s wall mounted or floor standing
• How old the boiler is
• How long you see yourself living in your current home
• Whether you want the boiler in a different place
• What sort of house you live in
• How many bedrooms it has
• How many baths and showers you have (or plan to have)
• How many radiators you have
• Whether you have a water meter
• Where the flue comes out, the shape of the flue and how far your boiler is from an outside wall
• How far the flue is from the ground and how close it is to another property
• Whether the flue is under a carport and 30cm or more from a door or window

If you do struggle with any of the questions, there is an FAQ section on the website or alternatively you can call the helpline for advice.

Once you have answered the questions online, you enter your postcode and you’re then presented with a list of suitable boilers based on your answers.

Choosing my new boiler

I was given a list of around 20 different boilers from a range of leading brands, including Worcester Bosch, Vaillant, Baxi and Navien. Each option clearly details the key product listings, such as dimensions, heating output, hot water flow rate, warranty and how many radiators it can power. This allows you to further compare the different products to ensure you are selecting the one that best suits your home and your needs.

It also shows the fixed price installation cost option, as well as the monthly cost option and any discounts that are currently available. It’s worth noting that these change throughout the year. When I originally booked mine there was a free Hive mini thermostat offer, and currently there is a Black Friday boiler sale with a discount of £125 on all boilers.

Again, if at this point you feel you would benefit from speaking to an advisor to help you choose the best type of boiler for your home, you can contact BOXT to go through your options in more detail. As I’ve been really happy with my current Worcester Bosch boiler I was keen to replace it with something similar, eventually opting for the Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 30kw, which is the upgraded model to the one I already have in my home.

It showed a fixed price cost for the boiler and installation of £2,395. Having looked online for this specific boiler, the cost of the boiler alone to me as a consumer averaged around the £1,400 mark, but then I would have to also arrange for a heating engineer to come and fit it for me.

According to Checkatrade, installation costs alone can often average between £1,000 and £2,000, so the total price for the boiler and installation offered by BOXT seemed competitive. There were some cheaper and more expensive options available on the BOXT website, but I know this boiler brand and the model was suitable for our heating requirements. It also had the capacity for a few more radiators to be added to our heating system in the future if we needed it, and was offered with a 10-year warranty for peace of mind.

Having selected the boiler, I was then taken to the next stage where I could choose things like the heating controls. A programmable thermostat is included in the price, but you can upgrade to smart thermostats like Hive for an added cost.

I also had minor additional costs added to the quote for a plume management kit (£70) and a Shock Arrestor Boiler Protection Pack (£40), which were automatically added because of the answers I had provided to some of the questions. These were a requirement for the installation, rather than an option

You can also add optional extras such as a Magna Cleanse Flush (£199), which helps to clean out your system and prolong the lifespan of your boiler, and an in-line scale reducer (£65), which was recommended to me because I live in a hard water area. There is no obligation to add any of these other extras to your installation, so you can limit your costs if budget is your key priority.

You’re then taken to a final checkout screen where everything in your order is clearly itemised with the associated costs breakdown and a final total for the boiler cost. You can pay the total amount upfront, or there are also options for finance and monthly payment plans.

Booking the BOXT installation

Once you’re happy with your order, you go through to the calendar screen to book your installation date. Providing you place your order, provide any requested photographs and answer any questions that the in-house technical team may have before 3pm (see below for more on this part of the process), BOXT can offer a next-day installation.

The next day option was showing for me, but it’s worth noting that at really busy times of the year there might be a small additional charge for this due to increased demand. According to BOXT, this can range from £5 up to £150, but they say that between the months of April to August you wouldn’t expect to see a surcharge of any amount.

Saturday installations can also carry an additional charge, however, this again varies depending on the volume of installations already booked for that specific weekend and would generally range from £50-£100.

I’ve gone through the initial booking process on a couple of occasions after I originally booked mine, to check how availability differed if I was to make a completely new booking. I have been pleasantly surprised by how soon I could book an installation on all occasions, with the price ranges quoted above being accurate. I did this throughout the month of November, so at a time when you would expect the service to be particularly busy, too.

One thing you might also spot, however, is that some days actually show a discount for installation. So if your boiler hasn’t broken down and you aren’t in a rush to have your new one fitted, you could opt for installation at a slightly later date (the following week perhaps) and get the benefit of a price reduction. BOXT says that these discounts can be up to £150 if customers are in a position to hold off for their date of installation.

Having chosen the date, I got details of the arrival time of the engineer and who it would be, and then proceeded to payment.

Pre-installation

I quickly received confirmation of my booking, what I had ordered and when the installation was booked for. The email also advised me to download the BOXT app so that I could manage my booking, as well as upload the necessary photos of my current boiler and its location, which would be reviewed by the in-house engineers before installation.

BOXT explains that this is so its team can review your photos against your boiler order, “to make sure you have selected the perfect boiler for your home and avoid any surprises on your installation day.”

You’ll need to allow yourself a little bit of time to take the photos and upload them, especially if you are trying to meet the 3pm cut-off time for a next-day install.

Just like the website, the app is really easy to use and offered clear instructions on what photos were needed and, more importantly, what needed to be included in the image.

The required images included things like the current boiler location, the pipework above and below the boiler, the existing thermostat, the flue exit, the area around the flue and the gas meter. Uploading them was quick and easy, and once each section was ticked I received a notification that I would be contacted if there were any additional queries on my photos, but otherwise the installation was set to go ahead as scheduled.

Installation day

The engineer was confirmed to arrive between 7am and 10am and I was also told in advance that the boiler would be arriving by courier, and given a delivery window for that too.

My engineer arrived before 8am, which meant he was also here to accept delivery of the boiler and check everything. After showing the engineer where the boiler was, he did a quick check of the gas meter location and the thermostat before talking me through the process. He let me know that the gas and water would be turned off for a couple of hours, so I made sure to fill up the kettle and cook my porridge on the hob before he started!

He also explained it would take a few hours to remove the boiler and then fit the new one along with the new thermostat, so I had a clear idea of what would be involved. After that, I got on with my work in the other room and left him to it.

There were no problems with the install and everything was neatly fitted in place. Any mess was cleaned up and the kitchen didn't look any different to how it had done first thing in the morning.

Once everything was up and running, the engineer talked me through the boiler controls and showed me how to check the pressure in the system. He also fitted the Hive thermostat and set it up so I could operate the boiler from the thermostat, as well as the app.

The whole installation process was very efficient, professional and was completed without any issues.

BOXT boiler installation aftercare

After the boiler was fitted, paperwork such as the warranty, gas safety certificate and workmanship guarantee was uploaded to the app where I can view it. It also shows that the Building Regulations sign off will arrive via mail, six weeks after the installation (for free), or it gives you the option to download a copy from the Gas Safe website for a fee.

There's a copy of the final invoice in the app and a digital version of the boiler manual should you need to quickly find out some info. There's even a help section, with info such as Worcester Bosch boiler error codes and common heating questions so you can try and fix any simple issues yourself, should they arise.

Within the app you can also book a boiler service, report any boiler problems or book a boiler repair.

Should you use the BOXT boiler installation service?

Arranging to have work done to your home can often take longer than you might want, especially if you're stuck without heating and hot water due to a boiler breakdown. A shortage of tradespeople means getting something done in an emergency isn't always possible either. What's more, if you've moved house and don't yet have any contacts in the local area, then searching for a local heating engineer, checking out reviews and getting quotes for a new boiler can take a while.

With their quick, easy-to-use service and next-day installation offer, BOXT take away a great deal of that hassle for you. The company has an extensive range of products to choose from (more than you would be likely to get from your local heating engineer) and the entire process, from choosing the boiler to booking the installation and then having it fitted, went so smoothly that I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the service to friends and family. Communication was clear throughout the process, the engineer arrived on time and left everything in a clean and tidy state, plus the aftercare has been spot on too.

From looking at the reviews on the likes of Trustpilot, it would seem the majority of BOXT customers have had a similar experience. BOXT has an 'excellent' rating, with an average score of 4.8/5 and more than 50,000 reviews.

Although I didn't need to have my boiler replaced in an emergency, I can see how the BOXT service would make that situation a great deal less stressful too.

What I will say as one final point, however, is that my boiler replacement was relatively straightforward. I was replacing my boiler with a similar model, I wasn't moving my boiler to a new location and there were no issues with my heating system. It means I can't comment on how the service would be for a more complicated install, but I have no reason to doubt it would be any less of a success than mine was.

About this review and our reviewer

Beth Murton is the Editor of Homebuilding & Renovating. She has renovated two homes and in her current home she previously replaced the boiler and upgraded the heating system using a local heating engineer.

Products and services for this review were supplied at no cost, but we have not been paid to write this review. This is review of the BOXT service and installation, not of the boiler itself.

Oil-filled radiators are a popular way to warm up a bedroom or home office without switching on the full heating. They’re quiet, steady and generally efficient – which naturally begs the question: are they safe to leave on overnight?

Modern radiators come with far better safety features than older portable heaters, but there are still a few things worth knowing before you drift off to sleep with one running. Our helpful guide breaks down how these types of radiator are designed to be used safely, and the situations where a little extra care is required.

Are oil-filled radiators safe to use overnight?

In most cases, yes – a modern oil-filled radiator can be safe to leave on overnight, as long as you’re using a well-designed model and setting it up properly.

Licensed electrician and HVAC specialist David Miloshev from Fantastic Services explains that these heaters are built for extended use, thanks to a sealed heating element and slow, steady output. This design means there’s “no exposed coil, no open flame and no risk of the oil burning,” making them one of the safest options for long runtimes.

Gas Safe engineer Patrick Garner from Heatable agrees, adding that the lower surface temperatures on oil-filled radiators “reduce the risk of burns or ignition” compared with other portable heaters.

Both experts stress the same point: the heater itself is rarely the problem. Safety comes down to choosing a model with proper protections – such as overheat cut-off, tip-over protection and a good thermostat – and using it exactly as the manufacturer intends. When those boxes are ticked, they say overnight use is generally considered safe.

What are the risks?

While oil-filled models are considered one of the safest types of portable heater, overnight use can still be risky if the setup isn’t right. Both experts agree that the main issues stem from how the heater is used, rather than the appliance itself.

Improper placement is the biggest concern. David Miloshev warns that these heaters need plenty of breathing room, with ideally around a metre on all sides. Pushing one against bedding, curtains or piles of clothes can trap heat and cause fabrics to scorch. And Patrick Garner adds that draping clothes or towels over the unit is a common mistake that can quickly lead to overheating (so try drying clothes with a dehumidifier or tumble dryer instead).

You shouldn't overlook your electrical setup either. Miloshev strongly advises against using extension leads, power strips or multi-plug adapters, explaining that they can overheat under prolonged load and fail. He also notes that older wiring, buzzing outlets or warm plug sockets should be treated as red flags. In these cases, an overnight run simply isn’t safe until the electrical issue is fixed.

Ventilation and room size play a role. Using an oil-filled radiator in very small or enclosed spaces can cause heat to build up faster than the thermostat can manage. This forces the heater to work at full power for longer, increasing strain on its safety components.

Finally, don’t ignore visible wear and tear. Frayed cables, dented fins, loose wheels or a thermostat that cuts in and out irregularly all compromise the safety of a machine. As Garner points out, most problems arise “from misuse rather than the appliance itself” – so keeping the heater in good condition is important.

Used sensibly and placed with care, the risks remain low. But if any of these warning signs apply, it’s best not to leave the heater running while you sleep.

Safety tips for overnight use

If you do plan to run an oil-filled radiator while you sleep, a few simple habits can make a big difference to how safely it works:

1. Give it plenty of space Keep at least a metre around the heater and make sure nothing – especially bedding, curtains or clothes – can fall onto it. This helps the thermostat work properly and prevents heat from building up.
2. Use the thermostat and timer A built-in thermostat keeps the radiator from running flat-out all night, while a timer lets you set gentle background heat rather than continuous output. This reduces strain on the unit and saves energy.
3. Plug it directly into a wall socket Never use an extension lead or multi-plug adapter. As electrician David Miloshev explains, they can overheat under sustained load. A grounded wall socket on its own circuit is always the safest choice.
4. Check the cable and plug Look for fraying, kinks, scorch marks or a plug that feels warm during use. Any damage means the heater shouldn’t be used until repaired or replaced.
5. Choose the right room Oil-filled radiators work best in well-ventilated bedrooms or living spaces. Avoid very tight or enclosed rooms where heat can build up faster than the thermostat can keep up. Wobbly floors or uneven carpets also increase the chance of the heater tipping, even if it has tip-over protection. A firm, flat spot is ideal.

Shop 3 of the best oil-filled radiators

Portable heaters are handy for quick, targeted warmth, but long-term comfort comes from choosing the right heating system for your space. From skirting board heating to traditional radiators, explore which heat emitter suits your home best with advice from our experts.

Most radiators come pre-painted and factory-finished, so it makes sense that they are at their most energy-efficient. However, the original colour might not meet your design ambitions, or time has taken its toll, and a repaint is on the cards.

Even the best radiators will eventually need a makeover, and a new coat of paint is a very cost-effective way to update them. But the big question is, will the new paint affect the heat output? Here you’ll find what difference paint will make, which colour works well, and which paint to use.

Will the amount of paint coats on a radiator affect heat output?

When painting radiators, adding more layers of paint can affect the output of a radiator, but the reduction in output is typically minimal, as Viktor Velikov, Director of ELSERVE points out, “Each layer of paint adds a thin barrier that can slightly reduce a radiator’s ability to release heat. The effect is usually minor,” he adds, “But excessive build-up insulates the metal and lowers efficiency.”

It is worth noting that most standard radiators have three layers. “Most modern radiators leave the factory with three layers: primer to prevent corrosion, undercoat for adhesion, and a gloss topcoat for durability and appearance," he says. “These coatings are heat-resistant and applied thinly to preserve thermal performance.”

Try these paints and tools on a radiator

The best colour for heat output

The colour of a radiator has little effect on its heat output. Louis Georgiou, Operations Director, Essential Workwear, briefly explains why: “Radiators have traditionally been white just because it suits most interiors, not because it improves performance. In reality, the colour has very little effect on how much heat you feel in a room.” Good news if you want your wall colour to match your radiator – our tips on painting behind a radiator will help with that task too.

Jimmy Englezos, Senior Brand Manager from Ronseal also explains it's not really the colour that makes the difference. “A radiator’s heat output is actually more manipulated by the reflectiveness of its paint finish," he says. "Shiny surfaces such as chrome or stainless steel will reduce its overall heat output since the shinier surface reduces its ability to transfer heat to the surrounding air.”

How the finish affects the heat output

When painting a radiator, the finish can affect heat output, but, as already mentioned, the reduction is minimal, especially with traditional paint finishes such as gloss, satin, and matt.

Georgiou says, “Whether you go for gloss, satin, or matt, the heat output will stay virtually the same – the finish is more about aesthetics than performance. What really matters is the quality of the paint.”

According to Englezos, for an effective finish, use matt paint: “Matt finishes can improve a radiator's efficiency and heat output, with black being the most efficient colour choice since it absorbs all light wavelengths before converting them into other forms of energy, in this case, heat.”

While black is a good choice, there isn’t a big difference between colours, explains Englezos, “The specific change in heat output between matt black and other matt colours, e.g., white radiator paint, is only around 1%, so don’t feel like you have to stick to black to get the maximum efficiency.”

Paint to use on a radiator

Choosing the right paint for a radiator is key to a successful paint job. Englezos says, “It’s important to use the correct type of paint that is suitable for use on metalwork and can withstand temperature changes.” The easy choice is a radiator paint such as this Hammerite Radiator Enamel Aerosol from Amazon, as it’s specifically formulated for radiators.

You can use everyday wood/metal paints such as this Dulux Trade Satinwood from Toolstation. These are typically heat-resistant up to around 90 degrees Celsius but are prone to discolouration, especially light coloured oil-based paints.

Whether you're looking to update your hallway radiator ideas or want to refresh your living room radiators, painting them with a couple of coats of your favourite shade is a quick and cost-effective way to add a touch of style to a room without impacting how much heat you'll get from the radiators.

For most self builders, installing insulation is a no-brainer and the corner stone of improving the energy efficiency of a home. It’s one of those investments that seem to tick every box and by wrapping your home in enough insulation, the result should be that you’ll spend less on heating, live more comfortably, and lower your carbon footprint.

Whilst home insulation is an essential energy efficiency upgrade, there’s a growing awareness that more isn’t always better. Sounds counter-intuitive, but go too far, and you can start to create problems – trapped moisture, poor ventilation, and even overheating.

Effectively insulating a home is a tricky balancing act and whilst you’ll want your home to be energy efficient, it will also need to “breathe” and perform well in all seasons. The key to an energy efficient home is to know how much insulation is enough, and at what point adding more starts to become a problem?

Why you need lots of insulation

Insulation works by slowing down the transfer of heat between a warm and cold place. In winter, implementing the best ways to insulate a home means keeping the warmth from escaping, and in summer it means helping to prevent heat from getting in.

A well-insulated home delivers lower energy bills and by reducing the rate of heat loss (through walls, roofs, and floors) a stable indoor temperature can be maintained with far less reliance on heating systems. This means that boilers, heat pumps and air conditioning systems won’t need to work as hard, saving money and reducing wear and tear.

A well-insulated home doesn’t just stay warm – it creates a comfortable environment to live in. Cold patches and draughts are eliminated and living spaces become quieter with better soundproofing. From an environmental point of view, insulation is one of the most effective ways to reduce your carbon footprint – less energy used for heating means fewer emissions, and a lower carbon footprint.

For all these reasons, insulation is rightly a top priority for most self builders. However, a home that relies on a delicate balance between insulation, airtightness, and ventilation is where things can start to go wrong.

Shop for home insulation products

How much is too much insulation?

Adding insulation always seems like a no brainer, but after a certain point, the benefits taper off. In fact, beyond a certain thickness or level of airtightness, insulation can create as many issues as it solves.

1. When it causes problems with moisture management

A big concern when over-insulating is moisture management. Activities such as cooking, showering, drying clothes, and even breathing produce water vapour which in older homes, is carried away through leaks in the building fabric. But in a highly insulated, airtight home this moisture can become trapped.

The problem is that warm, humid air condenses when it comes into contact with cooler surfaces such as the inside of an exterior wall. Over time, this condensation damages the building fabric, creating mildew, damp patches and mould growth. Prolonged damp conditions behind plasterboards and within insulation layers can lead to rot and structural damage and wet insulation materials will lose their thermal resistance and become ineffective.

When building with timber frame or SIPs, moisture management is particularly important and these structures will require careful detailing to prevent interstitial condensation within the walls. Masonry based walls can have problems too and cold bridges can become damp patches, leading to mould growth and unhealthy living environments.

2. When it causes ventilation issues

A common side effect of highly insulated, airtight buildings is poor indoor air quality. Without adequate ventilation, airtight homes have trouble replacing stale air. Humidity levels then rise resulting in respiratory issues and condensation.

Self-builders who’ve gone for a 'sealed box' then find their home feels stale and stuffy which can even lead to what’s known as 'sick building syndrome,' where occupants feel unwell simply from being inside the property.

The answer is to use Mechanical Ventilation Heat Recovery (MVHR) systems to bring in fresh air whilst extracting the stale indoor air and retaining its warmth. These systems work brilliantly when properly specified and installed, and are essential for highly insulated, airtight homes.

3. When the amount of insulation causes overheating in summer

Whilst insulation keeps your home warm in winter, it can also make it too warm in summer. In a highly insulated home, heat enters through windows or from appliances and becomes trapped inside. Without adequate shading and ventilation, the indoor temperature rise quickly and become unbearable. This issue mostly commonly happens with south-facing homes with large areas of glazing.

For self builders aiming for true year-round comfort, the answer lies in balance. It is possible to have a highly insulated home that doesn’t overheat, provided glazing and shading is well designed along with adequate ventilation strategies.

The law of diminishing returns

There’s a law of diminishing returns when it comes to adding insulation. The first 100mm of insulation added to a wall for example, makes a huge difference to energy efficiency. But the benefit delivered by the next 100mm is not nearly as much. By the time you’re doubling or tripling standard insulation levels, the improvement to your home’s performance is minimal compared to insulation cost.

If a wall already achieves a U-value of 0.18 W/m²K (the current building regulations target), adding more insulation might only save you a few pounds in terms of heating costs. If the insulation upgrade costs thousands, the payback could take decades.

For self builders with a limited budget, that extra money might be far better spent elsewhere – better windows, renewable technologies, or mechanical ventilation systems.

Finding the 'optimal' level of insulation

There’s no single answer that fits every project and the right amount of insulation will depend on the location, the architectural design, as well as what you want to achieve.

1. Climate zone considerations

A home in the Scottish Highlands faces very different conditions than one in say Devon. In colder regions, thicker insulation makes perfect sense, but in milder parts of the country, pushing insulation levels too far can result in overheating and unnecessary expense. Furthermore, orientation, window placement, shading, and ventilation will all play a part in how much insulation is actually needed.

2. Regulatory requirements and U-values

The building regulations set out minimum insulation standards and U-values to achieve energy efficiency standards. For most new builds, these targets are around 0.18 W/m²K for internal wall insulation, 0.13 for roofs, and roughly 0.13 – 0.15 for floors.

Whilst it’s fine to go beyond them, there’s a point where the gains flatten out, so it’s not necessarily beneficial to push too far past the standards. And if you want to build, say, a Passivhaus or near-Passivhaus standards, then the insulation strategy will need to be supported by airtightness detailing and mechanical ventilation to maintain indoor air quality.

Getting a professional assessment

If you still want to up-spec the insulation, then the best approach is to get professional advice to understand the implications. An energy assessor uses software such as SAP or PHPP to model a home’s energy performance and predict its EPC rating.

These models simulate heat loss and energy consumption to provide a clear picture of how different insulation levels will perform in a specific context. For self builders, this kind of modelling is invaluable and helps to avoid costly mistakes as well as ensuring a good ROI.

Ultimately, the best-performing homes aren’t the ones with the thickest insulation - they’re the ones where everything works in harmony. Insulation, airtightness, ventilation, and shading, all play their part.

If one is pushed too far without considering the others, the system as a whole can falter. The goal is to create a home that’s comfortable, efficient, and durable and not one that traps heat and moisture in the pursuit of energy savings.

For more advice on insulating your home, find out the areas of your home never to insulate, and if you're looking extending your home rather than self building a new one, following our guide to insulating an extension.

One of the UK’s first real-world trials of all-electric new builds has found that homes fitted with air-source heat pumps and solar panels are using dramatically less electricity than expected.

The homes recorded annual energy use between 40% and 67% lower than the UK average, with peak demand also coming in far below predicted levels.

Researchers say the findings challenge long-standing concerns that heat pumps would overwhelm the grid as Britain phases out gas boilers.

What the study revealed

The research took place at Project 80, a Birmingham social housing development designed to test the principles of the Future Homes Standard.

Seven all-electric homes were monitored for a full year by Birmingham City University. The team found that electricity demand during peak periods was significantly below predicted values, suggesting modelling has been overestimating how much power new electric homes will need.

Dr Mónica Mateo-Garcia, the academic lead on the project, said: “The average peak electricity demand per property was lower than we would expect.” She added that the analysis of carbon savings is still being finalised.

Professor Richard Fitton of the University of Salford, who was not involved in the study, praised the research as “a sterling bit of work” and said: “We currently seem to be overpredicting how much power we need in new-build housing.”

Why heat pumps performed better than predicted

Each home used an air-source heat pump for heating and hot water, alongside high levels of insulation and solar panels. The varied patterns of electricity use across households helped reduce simultaneous peak demand – a key factor in keeping pressure off the grid.

Some homes also used less electricity for heating and hot water than expected when compared with Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) estimates, highlighting known issues with EPC accuracy.

Professor Aaron Gillich of London South Bank University said the findings support wider roll-out of heat pumps: “We’re finding that all those reasons not to go ahead with a heat pump are slowly but surely falling away.”

What residents experienced

Residents reported much warmer and drier homes than their previous properties. Dr Mateo-Garcia said: “They were really, really happy to be in those homes. They said: ‘We haven’t seen any damp and mould.’”

An earlier interim report also documented a case where a family that had experienced recurring asthma in past accommodation “had not experienced those symptoms” since moving into a Project 80 home.

The study also uncovered instances of residents inadvertently using their systems inefficiently, such as manually switching on heat emitters or turning off heat pumps entirely and relying on fan heaters.

The report did state: "More needs to be done to help residents understand heat pumps, ventilation and building performance… to optimise efficiency.”

What this means for future homes

The findings lend support to the incoming Future Homes Standard, due in 2027, which will require new homes to include heat pumps and solar panels.

Experts say the evidence from Project 80 shows that real-world electric heating demand is lower and more varied than assumed in current planning models.

Midland Heart, the housing association behind the project, is now exploring adding battery storage to future developments and has plans for a new 95-home scheme based on the same principles.

With rising heating bills and plummeting temperatures, many families are facing a difficult dilemma this year. I, for one, have been reluctant to turn on my heating because of the high costs and have been on the hunt for a money-saving hack that could make my heating go further.

So when I saw Radflek’s Radiator Reflectors on Amazon for only £20, I knew I had to give them a try. They might look like your average roll of kitchen foil, but the brand claims they can reduce heat loss by 45% and reflect 95% of the heat back into your room.

After learning more about how radiator reflectors work and how much they could potentially shave off my heating bills, I was eager to put them to the test.

Installing Radflek Radiator Reflectors

When the radiator reflectors arrived, I’ll admit I was pretty skeptical that they would do anything worthwhile. As I mentioned before, they just look like kitchen foil – but if Radlek’s heat-gain promises were true, I’d have to put my doubts to one side.

The package came with two sheets that could be trimmed to size, Radklips (which keep the sheets in place), and Radstik joining tape (if you needed to fasten the two sheets together).

Installation was very simple, and I had it set up behind my radiator within 10 minutes of opening the packet. The instructions were clear and included a diagram for each step, making it a breeze to follow.

Here's what you'll need to do:

1. Flatten the creases in the sheet.
2. Measure the distance between your radiator’s wall brackets.
3. Cut the sheet to this width.
4. Make a 1cm fold at the top of the sheet.
5. Slide the Radklips over the fold (I used three for one sheet).
6. Roll the top of the sheet around the Radklips.
7. Place the Radklips on the wall brackets behind your radiator, with the printed side facing the wall.
8. Trim or roll any overhang so it isn’t visible.

I was pleasantly surprised that you can't see it at all behind my radiator – though I did have to fold the bottom up slightly because it was a bit too long. However, for some types of radiators with large gaps or minimal side panels, they might be more visible.

How did the Radlek Radiator Reflectors perform?

To find out whether the Radlek Radiator Reflectors really work, I put them to the test in my bedroom. Before fitting the gadget, I made sure all doors and windows were closed and that my radiator was the only heat source in the room.

I set my thermostat to 21°C and waited until my room had reached this temperature, recording it using my Apple HomePod Mini and noting down the time.

I then installed the reflector behind my radiator and, after an hour and a half, noticed that the temperature had increased by 1.5°C (to 22.5°C) – without touching anything. After a further 20 minutes, the temperature rose by another 0.5°C , and in the next 20 minutes, by an additional 0.5°C.

I started at 21°C at the beginning of the test, and within two hours I’d boosted the temperature by a total of 2.5°C – pretty impressive considering I didn’t turn up the heating or adjust the dial. By this point I was roasting, so I decided to end my experiment before I sweltered away.

When I measured the room temperature without the reflectors, it didn’t increase.

Where to buy radiator reflectors

To conclude, I was very impressed with the results of the Radflek Radiator Reflectors and would highly recommend them to anyone looking for an affordable way to boost their home heating.

Nick Duggan, Managing Director of The Radiator Centre, adds, "While they won’t transform the performance of your heating system, they can make a modest but useful difference by cutting back on unnecessary heat loss.

"It’s best to think of them as a supportive measure rather than a standalone solution: good insulation, appropriately sized radiators and efficient controls will always have the biggest impact, but reflectors can certainly contribute to overall energy efficiency."

For more heating advice, read our comparison of underfloor heating vs radiator efficiency and find out how to choose the right heat emitter for your home.