For many self-builders, the hunt for a suitable building plot represents one of the biggest challenges of the entire project. Yet, recent changes to national planning policy could unlock new potential avenues for tracking down land; specifically, alterations made to the policy around brownfield sites.

In 2024, the government pledged its support for the development of brownfield land – that is, land that’s previously been developed for another, usually industrial, purpose. It also released £68 million’s worth of funding to select local authorities to help clear empty buildings, former carparks and industrial land for house building, including self and custom build.

But, building on brownfield land isn't without its risks. We share expert tips for a successful outcome.

What are the advantages of building on brownfield land?

If vital infrastructure and service connections already exist on a brownfield site, it can make the plot an attractive prospect for would-be self builders.

"Brownfield plots almost always have existing connections to services such as electricity, water and sewerage, along with good-quality access that saves some substantial preliminary costs," says Robert Elkins, architect and creative director at Artel31.

From a planning perspective, there could be further benefits to self building on land that’s already been developed. "It’s more likely to be zoned by the local planning authority as suitable for development," says Matt Loader, director at Loader Monteith. "If this isn’t the case, an argument can also be made that development should be supported due to the historical precedent.”

Plus, if you’re looking to develop land that’s currently home to a run-down, unsightly eyesore, you could argue that erecting an attractive, bespoke home in its place will benefit people living and working in the surrounding area, too.

1. Explore all avenues to find a plot

Many of the traditional avenues for finding a plot to self-build on apply to brownfield plots too, as Spencer Guy, an architect at Levitate Architects who designed and built his own home on a brownfield plot in Buckinghamshire confirms.

"Our brownfield site had been promoted by the previous owner who got planning consent for a new dwelling. We saw the sales particulars on a site finding website," he says.

"Those kinds of websites are still the easiest way of finding land, and increasingly landowners are selling their land through estate agents," says Spencer. "Most value can be achieved by searching out sites on Google or by travelling around, finding and approaching the owners."

But, while sites such as Plotfinder and also auctions may be a good place to seek out brownfield plots, Robert and Hannah Elkins took a more speculative approach to finding the perfect plot, showing that in some cases walking around your desired neighbourhood to identify sites with development potential is the best way forward.

"We knew the area we hoped to live in and how limited our options would be, so we were open-minded and creative," says Hannah. "We knocked on doors and dropped letters through letter boxes explaining that we understood the challenges and would be willing to offer without a survey.”

Rob and Hannah’s house, constructed on a former brownfield plot in Bristol, is the result of their efforts. The site was previously home to a commercial garage that had fallen into disrepair 20 years before they bought it.

2. Be aware of the potential challenges

Just as a brownfield plot may come with the potential advantages of pre-existing infrastructure and services, there may be additional hurdles to consider before you build.

Brownfield sites are often more difficult to build on because of the increased contamination risk. There’s a long list of potentially hazardous substances to look out for, including sulphuric acid for land previously linked with the oil industry, hydrocarbons from fuel storage and lead from steel works factories.

If you’re buying a site that accommodates a disused petrol station, for instance, it’s likely the land is polluted with benzene and other petrochemicals that could pose a risk to the health of future occupants.

"The risk of long-term negative effects to your own or your family’s health often dissuades people from beginning the process,’ says Robert Elkins. "But, they can easily be managed provided they’re factored into the early design stages."

3. Commission the correct surveys

When building on brownfield land, "surveys should be undertaken to check what is present on the land," says Spencer Guy. "The other challenge can be the removal of redundant buildings on the land, which often is dangerous as they may contain hazardous materials," he adds.

"We experienced both of these challenges when building on brownfield land and they can pretty much always be overcome – but they often cost more money than is expected at the outset," warns Spencer.

When setting out your budget for building on a brownfield plot, it’s therefore important to have a generous fund set aside to conduct the relevant surveys and deal with any potential issues that arise as a result.

When Robert and Hannah Elkins built their home, they were most concerned about the cost of disposing of polluted soil if it was discovered during the excavation of their basement.

"Building below ground meant we would need to take about 1,000 tonnes out of the site, so we explored the costs of doing so in the case of that happening, and kept it as a contingency," says Hannah. "We knew there’d be risks and challenges, but the location was so important it was worth it."

4. Understand what's involved when knocking down existing buildings

If the brownfield site you’re interested in has existing structures on it, then your project will most likely encompass the partial or a full demolition of those buildings to make way for your new home.

However, it’s worth bearing in mind that knocking down old buildings comes with its own set of challenges to be aware of before you bring in the wrecking ball.

For example, if the pre-existing structure is in poor condition, the local council may want to see evidence of your strategy to keep passers-by safe before you commence demolition works. You’ll also need to assess whether there may be any additional hazards related to the demolition, such as asbestos.

A specialist survey will be required to identify the level of risk and any measures that need to be taken to keep everyone on site safe throughout the construction process.

5. Allocate sufficient budget

According to Derek Dawson from Scandia Hus, it can cost more to develop brownfield sites due to the potential contamination issues and demolition costs that might be involved.

"I would suggest that surveys are undertaken at an early stage to fully understand the potential costs involved from contamination issues and demolition requirements," he says.

Having said that, these additional costs to build a house might be balanced out by the savings you make due to pre-existing services connections and access to the plot.

6. Be thorough with the planning process

In theory, obtaining planning permission can be more straightforward to achieve on land that’s already been built on – in this case, brownfield land – than land that’s previously undeveloped.

However, that doesn’t mean you can skip the usual due diligence that’s required when it comes to checking out the local authority’s planning policies and the planning history of the site you’re interested in.

"Prior bidding on a brownfield site is worth looking at and the local authority designation of the plot in question," says Matt Loader. "If possible, make a bid on the land that’s subject to achieving planning permission."

7. Consider your design carefully

When it comes to designing your own self build home, there’s a plethora of design choices. In reality, the style of your new home and its size will likely be dictated – at least to some extent – by the unique features of the plot you’re building on.

"Most planning policies will state a preference for new development roughly equal in size and scale to the historical development on the site," says Matt Loader. "In our experience, this can be flexed within a margin of error by looking at nearby precedent, too."

Keen to see exactly what you could achieve by building on brownfield land? Take a look at this selection of homes built on brownfield sites, and take a deeper dive into this innovative London home that also took advantage of the opportunity to build on brownfield land.

When you’re hunting for a building plot, it’s easy to think you’ll stumble across a neat patch of grass with planning permission already sorted and services waiting at the boundary.

In reality, that almost never happens and more often than not, the best opportunities are hidden in plain sight – old garages, barns, or even, in building expert Mark Stevenson's case, a disused post office.

But before you take on any piece of land for your self build project, it’s essential to understand how land is designated and what that means for planning. It’s not just about spotting potential – it’s about knowing what’s possible (and what’s not) under planning rules.

What are land designations?

Land designation is basically how a local council classifies different pieces of land within planning policies and within its development plan. These designations determine what the land can legally be used for, for example, residential, commercial, agricultural, recreational, or protected space etc.

From a planning point of view, these designations are incredibly important because they set out what the council will or won’t approve. If the land isn’t designated for housing, getting planning permission for a home can be anything from difficult to completely impossible.

Which land designations are suitable for residential development?

Generally speaking, land that’s already in residential use or allocated for housing in a council's Local Plan is the easiest to work with. These sites are usually considered acceptable in principle for development.

Other potentially suitable designations include:

• Brownfield sites: These are plots that had previously had buildings on them or had a commercial use. Under recent national planning policies, councils tend to favour redeveloping brownfield land for housing, particularly in towns and villages
• Town and village infill plots: These are small gaps within established settlements, which can sometimes be developed, depending on scale and context
• Class Q conversions: Agricultural buildings that fit the criteria set out for a class Q conversion such as barns

Which land designations are not suitable for housing?

Some land designations are much harder to build on. Challenging examples include;

• Agricultural land: Unless you’re building a house for a farm worker, you’ll struggle to get permission to build a home on farmland. Local Plans usually protect agricultural land from residential development
• Open countryside: Land that sits outside of a settlements development boundary is referred to as open countryside and encroachment on it is generally frowned upon
• Flood zones: If the land is at high risk of flooding such as flood zone 3, the chances of securing planning consent are slim. You’ll need flood risk assessments, mitigation plans, and even then, housing may still be refused if there’s a better location
• Green Belt: Development is strictly controlled, and you’ll need very special circumstances to build, and a new home on previously undeveloped land rarely qualifies
• Protected employment land: Councils safeguard land for economic use like workshops or offices. They’re unlikely to approve housing on these sites unless you can prove the employment use is no longer viable.

When will residential development be refused?

Councils refuse residential schemes for all sorts of reasons, but if the land is clearly designated for another purpose, especially employment or agriculture, you’re on the back foot from the start. Other refusal triggers include:

• Lack of access or highways objections
• Harm to local character or conservation areas
• Impact on neighbouring properties
• Ecological or environmental concerns
• Incompatibility with the Local Plan or Neighbourhood Plan

If you’re working with a site that’s outside a settlement boundary or looking to build in a designated area such as Green Belt or an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, you’ll need a very strong case, otherwise refusal is most likely.

How to change the use of land

Changing the use of a piece of land to residential isn’t just a case of asking nicely and hoping for the best – it’s a process that needs careful thought, underpinned with planning savvy from a planning professional. It’s about convincing the local council that turning the land into a place to live makes better sense that retaining its current designation.

The first thing to do is understand how the land is currently designated. Every council has a Local Plan, which sets out what land can be used for. If your site isn’t already earmarked for residential use, you’ll need to apply for planning permission to change its use. This doesn’t mean changing the designation in a policy document but rather asking for approval to use the land differently.

Before jumping in, it’s well worth having a chat with a planning professional who can help you avoid common pitfalls and give you a sense of whether the council will support the application. If there are no major red flags, you can then submit a full planning application to show exactly what you’re proposing and why it fits the area.

Once submitted, the council will follow their planning process and will consider the impact of the change. There’ll be a consultation process and if all goes well, they’ll grant permission. There are no guarantees, but with a well-presented case and the right site, changing land to residential use is possible.

Some change-of-use projects, like turning a shop into a house can qualify for permitted development rights – meaning you can change the use without full planning. But these rights are limited and often don’t apply to certain types of properties and in protected areas such as areas of outstanding beauty (ANOB’s).

Our case study: from post office to family home

When we began looking for land in Cambridgeshire, we were quite optimistic, and assumed we’d find a building plot within a few weeks. Reality was somewhat different.

After months of searching and a few disappointing near misses, we came across a closed post office in the conservation area of a village. It wasn’t listed as a building plot, but we knew that there was potential to change its designation and secure a planning consent.

The building itself was uninspiring, poorly built and ugly. But the location was ideal, and the site had its own access. I knew that there was potential, provided we followed the right approach and made a strong argument for change.

We did our research and discovered that the post office had been shut for years. In fact, the village had setup a volunteer shop elsewhere, making the building redundant. The area was surrounded by houses, and this little commercial unit was effectively stranded in a residential street. It wasn’t listed, but it was in a conservation area and wasn’t protected as employment land.

We confirmed that the land was designated as commercial use, so we needed to apply for change of use to residential and make a strong case. We sought advice from a planning consultant who confirmed that the council’s local plan supported the reuse of redundant commercial buildings for housing, especially in built-up areas. Our planner warned us that change-of-use applications aren’t always straightforward, so we’d need a good design, clear justification, and likely, support from neighbours.

Rather than just apply for change of use, we submitted a full planning application for a new dwelling, along with a detailed design and access statement setting out the arguments for approving the change of use.

As the existing building was beyond economic repair, our proposal was to demolish the post office and build a modest cottage-style house in its place. We also set out the argument that the commercial site was effectively redundant, due to alternative facilities and the fact that the post office wasn’t likely to move back any time soon.

We worked with an architect to create something sympathetic and in keeping with the area. To be honest, the design was a pastiche of the past, but it did at least connect with the local architecture by using locally salvaged materials. It was designed to look like it had always been there.

The initial response from the planning department wasn’t particularly positive. The conservation officer was concerned with the impact on the conservation area and claimed that the design was too bulky and would harm to the street scene. Our planner disagreed and set about proving them wrong.

We carefully reviewed the planning history and the previous refusal reasons. It was clear that they weren’t against the principle of changing the land's designation as its retention would have implications to the newly setup shop. They were much more interested in the design, which was was something we could fix.

We asked the neighbours what they thought and by involving them in the design process, we won over their opinion that a new home of traditional style was the best use of the land. Our application included letters of support from neighbours and a planning statement that proved that the building had no economic value. Twelve weeks later, we received consent and with it, confirmation that the land could now be used for residential purposes.

What we learned

Changing the use of land is absolutely possible – but only if you understand the planning landscape and play within the rules. The most important areas to consider are:

• Know the land designation: This sets the context for an application. If it’s designated commercial, depending on its use, you could benefit from permitted development, but if it’s considered to have community value, you’ll need to justify why housing is a better use
• Get advice early: Speak to planners and consultants before submitting anything as they’ll know the issues at play and will help you steer around the inevitable bear traps
• Read past refusals:. They often reveal exactly what went wrong before and provide the clues to making a successful application
• Talk to the neighbours: They don’t have to love your plans, but it helps if they don’t hate them
• Design matters: Councils are far more likely to approve something that looks right in its setting, especially in designated areas such as conservation areas

Changing the use of land is a good way to find a building plot and unlock potential in overlooked sites. Whether it’s a former shop, garage, or in our case, a tired old post office, these spaces can be hiding in plain sight. But success isn’t about luck - it’s about research, scouring sites such as Plotfinder for opportunities, good design, community engagement, and persistence.

If you’re prepared to do the legwork and invest in making a strong case, you might just find your perfect plot hiding in the most unexpected place. Looking back now at the home we built, I still can’t quite believe what we pulled off. All it took was seeing the potential – and not being put off by the planning process.

For more advice on buying a plot, make sure you understand the 12 red flags that shouldn't be ignored, and if you're struggling to find a site, make sure you've ticked all the boxes regarding where to buy land.

If you’ve ever dreamed of building your own home, one of the first things you’ll need to do is buy a building plot. But how much does a building plot in the UK actually cost?

Like most aspects of property, the answer isn’t straightforward. It depends on several factors, including location, size, planning status and what house the plot will support.

In this article, I’ll explain the cost of building plots and explore why prices vary so much. Read on and you might even find out how to bag a bargain.

What is a building plot?

When considering the price of a building plot, its important to first understand what a building plot is. A building plot is a piece of land which is suitable for development. It must have a planning consent, be legally accessible and have access to at least the essential services.

Without these the prospect of development is highly unlikely and therefore the value of the land will be significantly reduced.

How much does a building plot cost?

The price of a building plot varies significantly, ranging from around £40,000 for a small plot to well over £1 million for something that’s exceptional and in a high value area. For most self-builders, the cost of a typical plot is somewhere between £100,000 to £300,000, depending on the location and what the plot can support.

At the lower end of the scale, plots are typically small and in low value locations such as the north of England or Scotland. Higher value plots are typically found in expensive locations such as the South East of England, where prices are driven up by high demand for housing.

Why do building plot costs vary?

Building plot prices can feel like a bit of a mystery, but they’re largely determined by a simple equation: the value of the finished house minus the costs of developing it. This brings a variety of factors into play which can cause plot prices to vary widely.

1. Local house prices

House prices, and by extension, plot prices, are driven by supply and demand. Desirable locations naturally command a premium and in areas with high demand – whether it’s urbanised areas or picturesque villages with great schools and transport links – house prices climb, pushing up the residual cost of building land.

2. Availability of land and planning restrictions

On the supply side, the availability of land plays a huge role. In urban areas where space is tight, or in regions where local councils enforce strict planning policies, fewer plots come to market. This scarcity creates more competition and, unsurprisingly, higher prices.

3. Development costs

Then there’s the cost of building the house. While construction costs do vary across the country, they’re not as different as you might think, so they don’t tend to drastically influence plot prices. However, professional builders and experienced self builders, who can construct high-value homes efficiently, have lower overall costs. This gives them more flexibility to pay higher prices for land, which can drive up plot costs for others.

In the end, it all comes back to the equation: the higher the final value of the house, the more the residual land (the plot) is worth, provided development costs are kept under control. This is why building plot prices can vary so dramatically, even within the same region.

Regional variations in building plot costs

The cheapest places to buy plots

The cheapest plots can often be found in Scotland, and Northern England, in places like Northumberland, Cumbria and County Durham. Here, land is more readily available, and with a lower population and lower average earnings, plot prices are very affordable. Parts of Wales and Northern Ireland are similar and you’ll find plots for as little as £40,000 to £80,000, depending on size and location.

Some examples of plots currently available on Plotfinder in these areas that all present a good opportunity are:

• Single building plot with planning – Middlestone Moor, Spennymoor
• Pair of semi detached houses with planning – Oxbridge, Stockton-on-Tees
• Plot for sale– Dundee, Scotland
• Single building plot with planning -  Maesbrith, Dolgellau

Most expensive places to buy plots

In contrast, the most expensive building plots are generally found in London and the South East, as well as affluent rural areas such as the Cotswolds or parts of Cheshire. These regions command premium prices due to their desirable locations, proximity to major cities, and high property values.

In London, development land is so scarce that even tiny plots or infill plots can sell for hundreds of thousands of pounds. In the South East, the combination of limited land availability, restrictive planning policies and strong demand from commuters results in prices often exceeding multiple millions for a single plot.

Looking for a plot in these areas? Here are some opportunities currently up for grabs:

• Development opportunity – Mill Hill, Barnet
• Single building plot with planning – Cobham, Surrey
• Single building plot – East Finchley, North London

Good value places to buy plots

In places which fall outside of reasonable commuter distance to London, demand falls. So in the East of England, the Midlands and the South West, plot prices become more reasonable.

With a few high value exceptions such as around Bath, Norwich and Birmingham, building plots in these areas are more affordable, and typically fall within £150,000 to £250,000 for the average plot in a good location.

To see what you could get for your budget, here are some building plots currently on the market:

• Land for sale with outline planning consent – March, Cambridgeshire
• Land for sale – Barnetby Le Wold, North Lincolnshire
• Single plot with planning – Brackley, Northamptonshire
• Single plot with planning – Little Chesterford, Saffron Walden
• Single building plot with planning – Highcross Street, Market Harborough

Other factors that influence building plot costs

Larger plots typically cost more, but the cost per square metre may decrease with size depending on location. For example, a small urban infill plot may be disproportionately expensive compared to a larger rural site.

In terms of size, the scale of the house generally has a greater influence on the plot value. This is because the bigger house the more valuable it will be and therefore, the plot will be more expensive.

Other influential factors include:

• Greenfield vs brownfield sites – Greenfield plots often attract premium prices because they’re relatively in short supply due to restrictive planning policies and are perceived to be easier and cheaper to develop. Brownfield sites – land which has been previously developed - usually has higher enabling costs such as demolition and site clearance which depresses the residual land cost, making these plots more affordable.
• Land with or without planning permission – Plots with detailed planning permission for an attractive or bespoke design often command higher prices as the consent defines the residential value. Buying a plot without planning permission is much cheaper as it comes with the risk that planning permission may not be granted. The value of land where a residential consent is extremely unlikely, will be limited by its permitted use. For example, agricultural land and paddocks will only be worth £12,000 to £15,000 per acre.
• Serviced vs unserviced plots – Serviced plots, which come with water, electricity, and drainage, are more expensive as there’s no uncertainty around the connections of the essential services. Unserviced plots may be cheaper but by how much will depend on what the connection costs are.
• Location and amenities – Plots near good schools, transport links, and local services are highly desirable and priced accordingly. Conversely, whilst remote plots might seem idyllic, as they’re poorly connected they are usually more affordable.

How to reduce the cost of a building plot

If you’re looking to buy a bargain plot, here’s a few options to consider:

• Look off market – Oven-ready land which has already been identified as a building plot usually attracts a premium price due to the competitive nature of the market. By looking off market and finding an opportunity without the competition, the plot could be more affordable without the premium price tag.
• Buy land without planning permission – Land without planning permission is usually cheaper because there’s the risk of securing a consent as well as the expense in making the application. Whilst land without planning consent would seem risky, provided an option agreement, the financial exposure can be managed, turning unpermissioned land into great value opportunities. But remember, developing a design and securing a planning consent could cost around £10,000 to £20,000 so always assess the risks and make sure the deal is attractive before signing up an option agreement.
• Consider alternative development options – Look for properties with development potential, such as houses with large gardens with space to build an additional house. If the development potential hasn’t been spotted then the garden could be subdivided to form a very affordable garden plot.
• Purchase with others – In simple terms, single plots are sold at retail prices whereas sites with multiple plots, which are usually developed out by builders are sold at trade prices. By teaming up with friends or family or even other self-builders to buy a larger parcel of land, provided you’re happy to deal with the infrastructure and servicing of a larger site, by cutting out the developer profit, multi-plot sites can offer exceptional value.

Think you may have found a plot with planning consent but aren't keen on the design? Find if if you should change the design of a plot with planning approval and make sure you've covered off all the questions you need to ask when buying land to build on.

Between 30 and 40 per cent of UK homes are bought for cash every year, according to HM Land Registry.

Buying for cash means you have enough money to purchase a property outright without needing to seek a mortgage. However, sometimes cash buyers may take an unsecured loan to make up a shortfall. Or arrange bridging finance on an existing property to release equity.

“Not all buyers are true cash buyers – some will take out a bridging loan to enable them to move quickly if they haven’t sold their own home and put them ahead of the competition,” says Mark Harris, chief executive of financial services intermediary SPF Private Clients

In theory, buying a house without a mortgage should be more straightforward than with one. “This is particularly the case given the issues that often arise, not just in obtaining finance in the first place, but with surveyor’s valuations for mortgage purposes,” says Jeremy Leaf, north London estate agent, and a former RICS residential chairman. “A valuation can come in lower than the price offered and accepted by buyer and seller, which means a tussle with the lender.”

Buying a house with cash – where can the funds come from?

Funds when buying a house with cash can come from savings, an inheritance, even a lottery win, and from a mixture of places.

Some cash buyers supplement savings with personal loans, or borrow money from family members. The latter might include what’s known as a ‘gifted deposit’.

More typical when first time buyers are taking out a mortgage, gifting a deposit is when parents or grandparents give offspring a percentage of the purchase price.

Steps to buying a house with cash

There are two main differences to buying a house with cash and buying a house with a mortgage.

The first difference is that buying with cash is usually quicker and cheaper than using a mortgage. “There are some searches and processes when buying a property that most mortgage lenders require such as affordability checks and valuation surveys,” says Dave Sayce, managing director and founder of home-moving services website Compare My Move. “When you don’t have a lender, the process will go quicker, and your conveyancing fees will be cheaper.”

Second, you won’t have to pay any lender fees, or mortgage interest when buying a house with cash, or without a mortgage. This can make the steps to buying a house with cash simpler compared to buying with a mortgage.

“You won’t need a ‘decision in principle’ to ascertain how much you can afford, nor have to go through a mortgage application to ascertain if you can afford monthly payments,” says Mark Harris. “This can take time depending on the lender you use and whether you employ the services of a mortgage broker, which is always a wise move.”

You will simply make your offer and if the buyer accepts, proceed to the conveyancing stage (see below). If the seller does not accept your first offer, it’s time to negotiate.

Pros of buying with cash or without a mortgage

1. Sellers prefer it: Sellers and estate agents assume you are more proceedable if you are a cash buyer. It takes away the uncertainty of progressing a mortgage application and potentially being refused.

“If two buyers are competing for the same property, the seller may well go with the cash buyer rather than the one relying on a mortgage, particularly if they wish to move quickly,” says Mark Harris.

2. Enjoy a discount: “As a cash buyer, you may even be able to negotiate a lower price as you are in theory more attractive to the vendor,” adds Mark.

Jeremy Leaf agrees, saying that cash buyers hold power. “Cash buyers are in a strong position to ask for a reduction a purchase price, particularly if the seller has previously experienced problems dealing with buyers dependent on finance.”

3. More properties to choose from: Some properties are advertised as ‘cash buyers only’. This could be because they are seriously in need of renovation and may require major works, such as underpinning. If it’s going to be difficult for a buyer to obtain a mortgage, cash is the only option.

4. Buy at auction: With cash at the ready, you’re able to buy a property effectively at auction, whether through a traditional sale room or the modern method of auction online.

5. It’s usually faster: Buying with cash is usually faster than a mortgaged purchase as there are fewer hoops to jump through. Read more on this in our FAQs below.

6. Less risk of sale falling through: Sales often collapse because the buyer can’t meet tight mortgage criteria. This isn’t the case for cash buyers, who are especially valuable in a long chain of sales and purchases.

7. More security: As a cash buyer, you will immediately own the property outright. No-one will hold a ‘charge’ over it. Also, there’s no risk of a lender repossessing your home due to falling behind on mortgage payments.

Cons of buying a house with cash or without a mortgage

1. No spare cash: Mark Harris says that before you take the decision to go for a cash purchase, it’s important to seek advice from a whole-of-market broker to discuss your wider financial position.

“Even if you do have enough cash to ensure you don’t need a mortgage, it might not be in your best interests to plough all of your life savings into your home,” he warns. “This is particularly the case if you are selling stocks and shares and cashing in ISAs to do so.”

2. Accepting affordability: It might be tempting to put every last penny into your cash purchase, but experts warn it’s foolhardy to leave nothing left over for emergencies. Also, consider regular outgoings. In the midst of a house move, you might not be picking up regular payments such as overtime, or any work at all if you’re self-employed. Keep some cash back to cover essentials.

3. Risk and the need for insurance: Mortgage companies demand buildings insurance to ensure the property – which they effectively own until borrowing ends – is covered in case of problems such as subsidence or flooding. Don’t skimp this step if you’re a cash buyer.

Buying with cash demands a lot of due diligence that mortgage lenders would usually ask for. It’s especially important to check, with your conveyancer, that correct permissions for any building works have been obtained by the seller. If anything is in doubt, you may need to take out indemnity insurance to cover the property in case of problems.

4. Potential to overspend: “One disadvantage of buying without a mortgage is that rather than get a bargain you may end up spending more than the house is worth,” says Mark Harris. “With a mortgage, there is a limit to what the lender will lend depending on the property value as ascertained in the mortgage valuation.”

If you buy with no such control in place, it’s important to do check the comparable asking and sold prices of similar properties nearby, using a property portal or Land Registry.

“If you don’t, you may not even realise that you are paying more than market value and could get carried away if you really want a particular property,” adds Mark.

5. Sellers may be wary: Cash buyers can be more demanding on the seller because they often expect a better price in exchange for being able to proceed quickly, according to Jeremy Leaf. “We also find that they carry out more detailed inspections as well as valuations of their chosen property.”

6. ‘Cash-only’ sales could be problematic: Properties marketed as ‘cash buyers only’ may have something wrong with them. These could include structural problems such as subsidence. Or the property could be built of ‘non-standard construction’, such as all-timber. Or, if it’s a leasehold property, it might have only a short lease left.

However, not all cash-only sales carry red flags. Sometimes, sellers want cash buyers because they need to offload a property quickly. Examples include in the case of divorce, to stop repossession happening, or to pay care home fees.

Is buying with cash or without a mortgage worth it?

You will save money on the costs of buying a house, because you won’t need to cover any arrangement fees or mortgage valuations demanded by lenders. Dave Sayce estimates cash buyers save an average of 6 per cent on conveyancing charges, compared to buyers using a mortgage.

Also, ongoing costs will be lower, because these relate to the interest that would have to be paid on a mortgage. “Over time, this interest can add up to tens of thousands of pounds for an average-priced property,” says Dave. “While paying off a mortgage early might seem like a way to avoid these costs, many lenders impose early repayment charges, which can still lead to significant expenses.”

Having the full payment upfront means a cash buyer can proceed without relying on the sale of another property. “This makes the transaction faster and more certain, which is attractive to sellers,” says Dave.

“As a result, sellers may be willing to offer a discount, particularly if they are looking to finalise the sale quickly.”

FAQs

Can it be more expensive if taking personal loans?

Personal loans will usually have higher interest rates than mortgages. There is nothing secured on them, so the lender is taking a bigger risk, meaning higher interest payments.

For this reason, it’s not advisable to borrow large chunks of money for a house purchase this way as it will cost much more in interest over the term of the loan. Borrowing smaller amounts on a personal loan to make up a cash shortfall, or to carry out renovations, can work.

When does cash need to be transferred?

The conveyancing process when buying a house with cash is largely the same as when using a mortgage, with a few key differences.

The first step is to provide proof of your funds and the source of those funds.

One major distinction is that cash buyers can exclude checks and searches often required by mortgage lenders.

Even as a cash buyer, you will usually need to pay a deposit when exchanging contracts. This deposit secures the sale and makes the agreement legally binding, similar to a mortgage purchase.

Deposits typically range from 5 per cent to 20 per cent of the property price. “Because you are paying in full with cash, the deposit amount has less significance compared to a purchase involving a mortgage lender,” Dave Sayce explains.

On completion day, the remaining balance of the funds is then transferred on via your solicitor, at which point ownership of the property is officially transferred to you.

Do I need a solicitor to buy a house without a mortgage?

Technically there is nothing to stop you doing your own conveyancing, but you definitely need a solicitor, or licensed conveyancer, for one key aspect of buying with cash. They must verify, under Anti-Money Laundering (AML) regulations, not only that you have the funds to purchase a property but also establish the source of those funds.

Do I need a survey to buy a house without a mortgage?

You won’t need a survey for a mortgage valuation, but you should always have a survey done anyway to assess the condition of the property and highlight any major issues such as damp, subsidence or structural problems. A RICS Level 2 Home Survey (homebuyer survey) is the most common survey type when buying with cash, says Dave Sayce, while a RICS Level 3 Home Survey (building survey) is more in-depth.

“The surveyor will also tell you what the property is worth, putting your mind at rest that you aren’t going to be paying too much if you are buying for cash,” adds Mark Harris.

Will I need to show where my cash came from?

Yes, in the UK, both estate agents and conveyancing solicitors are legally required under Anti-Money Laundering (AML) regulations to verify not only that you have the funds to purchase a property but also the source of those funds. This is a critical step to ensure the legitimacy of the money being used in the transaction.

“If you are unable to provide proof of the source of your funds, your conveyancing solicitor may decline to represent you, and the estate agent could refuse to progress the sale,” says Dave Harris. “In cases where there are significant concerns, the relevant authorities may be notified.”

Acceptable examples of proof for the source of funds include:

• Bank Statements: Showing consistent deposits into a savings account over time
• Sale of Assets: Documentation for the sale of property, investments, or other assets
• Inheritance: A copy of the will or a letter from the executor of the estate, confirming the funds were inherited
• Proof of funds: is one of the first steps in the conveyancing process. Providing this documentation promptly and accurately helps ensure the process runs smoothly and complies with legal obligations

How long does it take to buy a house without a mortgage?

When buying a house with cash, it’s estimated that you could save an average of 4 to 8 weeks on the conveyancing timeline, which can take up to three months, but often longer, according to Dave Sayce. However, this can vary depending on individual circumstances.

Buying a property with cash can be exciting and straightforward, as long as you’re aware of your obligations and follow the rules. Looking at a property in need of work? Find out how much to add to your budget with our comprehensive guides to the essentials such as the cost to rewire a house and costs for a new roof.

On hearing the term 'best and final offer' you might well feel a little disheartened, as though your chances of being the successful bidder on the property you have fallen in love with have suddenly diminished.

However, when buying a house, there is no reason why this method of submitting offers should stand in the way of you and your dream home.

Our expert-led guide explains everything you need to know about best and final offers, from why sellers might choose to take this route, to how to navigate the process and, ultimately, end up as the successful bidder.

What does best and final offers mean?

In some cases it might be stated from the get-go that a property is being sold in this way, while in other cases you won't discover that sellers are inviting best and final offers until you are viewing a house, or come to put in an offer.

"The decision to move to a 'best and final offer' (or 'sealed bid') scenario is guided by the seller, and occurs when there is significant interest in a property and multiple offers are already on the table,' explains Spencer Lawrence, sales and lettings director at Paramount Properties.

"At the seller's request, their estate agent will ask for interested parties’ offers by a certain date, giving all potential buyers a fair opportunity to consider and submit their best offer."

This a process those renovating a house are likely to be familiar with, as properties in need of modernisation are often in high demand and are commonly sold this way.

"In the property market, 'best and final offers' often come about in competitive scenarios where multiple buyers are interested in a property," adds Liam Gretton, founder of estate agents Liam Gretton. "It's a sales tactic designed to encourage buyers to submit their highest bid while also creating a sense of urgency and finality."

"The seller invites all interested parties to submit their highest bid, along with any conditions, by a set deadline," further explains Robin Edwards, property consultant at Curetons Property Finders. "This approach isn’t purely about the offer price; it also considers factors like the buyer’s flexibility, financial readiness and overall appeal as a purchaser."

Why do sellers choose this route?

As well as familiarising yourself with a house viewing checklist, it can can be useful, before submitting your offer, to understand why a seller or estate agent may choose to invite offers in this way.

"Best and final offers can help a seller decide quickly which offer to accept," explains Spencer Lawrence. "They can easily compare the value of the offers as well as individual buying positions, such as whether they are first-time buyers, have sold their property already, are in a chain, etc. This method is used to tie-up a sale quickly and efficiently, giving both sellers and buyers the opportunity to move forward with a sale price they are happy with."

Liam Gretton has some more words of wisdom here.

"For sellers, this process helps streamline decision-making, ensuring they receive the best deal while considering the buyer's financial position and commitment, however it is also important to highlight that the highest offer may not be the best buyer," points out Liam. "The phrase 'best and final' can put undue pressure on buyers, making the process unnecessarily stressful."

How do you submit your best and final offer?

Once you find out a property you are interested in is being sold in this way, how should you proceed?

"Always submit your offer verbally to the agent first, then back it up in writing," advises Liam Gretton. "Clearly state your offer amount and reiterate your buying position (e.g., first-time buyer, chain-free, and so on.) Provide context for your offer, such as why the property is important to you or how you’ve arrived at your offer.

"Show the agent and seller you’re serious by attaching all necessary documents, including a copy of your mortgage agreement in principle, proof of deposit (e.g. a PDF from your bank statement), ID documents and contact details for your solicitor and mortgage adviser," adds Liam. "This proactive approach not only builds confidence – it also saves the seller and agent time, ultimately making you a more attractive and serious buyer."

How to decide how much your best and final offer is

If you find yourself in this situation it can be really difficult to know what kind of figure to go in with. You also need to bear in mind the costs of buying a house to ensure you can actually afford what you are offering.

"Agents will not disclose information about other offers, so bidders must be guided by their own affordability, what they are comfortable offering and, ultimately, what the home is worth to them," explains Spencer Lawrence.

"The key to navigating this process is shifting the mindset from stress to clarity," advises Liam Gretton. "Buyers should ask themselves: What is my 'no regret' offer? This means deciding on a figure where, if the property sells for just slightly more, they won’t feel regret for not offering higher. It’s about setting a confident limit based on personal value and affordability."

How to be the successful bidder in a best and final offer scenario

Don't let panic take over here – while it might be tempting to lose your head, there are some keys to 'winning' in the case of best and final offers. It's especially important if you are aiming to renovate for profit, as you don't want to go in with too high a bid.

"To increase your chances of success, it is important to go to the maximum price you are comfortable with," begins Spencer Lawrence. "While the money you offer is incredibly important, sellers will also consider how easy it is for you to proceed with the sale. Sellers don't always accept the highest offer, they may instead decide to go with the person in the best position to move forward, so it is vital to get organised ahead of time.

"We recommend making sure your mortgage is agreed in principle and instructing a solicitor as early as possible," continues Spencer. "If you are in a chain, make sure to keep the agent selling your property informed of your plans so they know who to communicate with, and if you are a cash buyer, make sure you have the funds readily available for a fast and smooth purchase."

"Remember, the highest offer doesn’t always win," highlights Liam Gretton. "I recently had a sale where the sellers agreed to an offer £20,000 below the highest. Often, sellers prioritise buyers who are ready to move quickly or have fewer complications. If you’re chain-free, flexible with timelines, or have cash funds, make this clear. It could tip the scales in your favour."

"Sometimes adding a personal touch, like a short, heartfelt letter explaining why you love the property can help establish an emotional connection with the seller," adds Robin Edwards. "However, professionalism and clarity are equally important, so ensure your offer is well-documented, polite and respectful of the seller’s deadline.

"To increase your chances of success, focus on presenting yourself as an organised and reliable buyer," continues Robin. "Ensure your finances are in order, respond quickly to requests or questions, and demonstrate a clear commitment to the purchase. While the process can feel high-pressure, a strategic and well-prepared approach can position you as the most attractive buyer."

FAQs

Can you submit another offer if you are unsuccessful?

If you find that you are not the 'chosen one' and that the seller has decided to go with someone else's offer, what are your options?

You could contact the estate agents and offer a higher price. There is nothing, legally, to stop the seller changing their mind, even after accepting an offer. That said, it pays to keep a cool head here.

"While it’s tempting to allow emotions take over and offer above and beyond, stay grounded," advises Liam Gretton. "That balance between emotional attachment and financial prudence is vital."

What happens if I change my mind after making a best and final offer?

You are not legally bound by your offer until contracts are exchanged. If you pull out, the sellers will, in most cases, accept the next best offer that was submitted.

"Once an offer is accepted the sale proceeds through the usual legal checks and formalities until contracts are exchanged," adds Robin Edwards.

If you are searching for land on which to build your dream home or a renovation project take a look at Plotfinder.net to find all the latest opportunities.

A unique self build plot with planning permission for a new home in Tarbrax, South Lanarkshire, Scotland, has come onto the market. Just an hour's drive from Edinburgh, the plot boasts views of the countryside from all angles.

Once the site of the historic Maidenwellbrow Cottage, a former toll house built in the 1770s, the location offers a chance to build a new split-level home, with offers over £125,000 being considered.

We reveal all the details of this building plot and how you can make an offer and get started on your dream home.

Planning permission approved for a split-level home

This sloped plot comes with planning permission for a new residential split-level home to be built.

This design helps make the most of the sloping site and offers panoramic over surrounding countryside from the first floor living area, kitchen and master bedroom. A decked area can be accessed from the open-plan living space.

The plans also boast three bedrooms and bathroom on the lower floor, together with a workshop space.

While building on a sloping site provides benefits, it's worth noting that the costs associated are often more than building on flat terrain.

Chance to repurpose a piece of history

The plot was formerly used for a cottage at Maidenwell Brow, originally built in the 1770s.

The building was formerly a toll house, a solid single-story building facing the road with two storeys on the northern side due to the sloping land. It was a place of refuge for travellers during harsh weather.

Although traffic was sparse and the road poorly maintained, the toll house offered hospitality and warmth, especially in bad conditions. After the turnpike system ended in the 1880s, it became a simple wayside cottage, surrounded by the industrial landscape of shale oil works, until the area's population declined after the industry’s collapse in 1926.

The cottage was abandoned after World War II and now stands roofless with large gaps in its stone walls.

How can you make an offer for the plot?

You can enquire how to purchase the plot in Tarbrax on Homebuilding & Renovating's Plotfinder website Plotfinder or call the agent on 0131 524 9797 if you wish to make an offer.

Air source heat pumps are soon to be mandatory in all new build homes, with the government's Future Homes Standard exploring two options, both of which will see the low-carbon heating option required to be installed by law.

Existing homes will also be increasingly likely to adopt heat pumps with the government looking to roll out a gas and oil boiler ban by 2035 and offering homeowners up to £7,500 through its Boiler Upgrade Scheme. However, as appealing as that might sound, it is not always a straightforward swap.

Installing an air source heat pump will ideally require improvements to the fabric of a home to operate efficiently. But once this is achieved, air source heat pumps are hard to beat when it comes to producing renewable heating.

Our heating expert David Hilton takes an honest look at all the pros and cons of air source heat pumps so you can assess whether one makes sense in your project.

Air source heat pumps

An air source heat pump is a low-carbon heating source. It uses a refrigeration cycle to move heat from the air outside and transfers it as useable heat in your home.

Air source heat pumps, like boilers, are a heat source, but they deliver lower temperatures than a boiler. As such, they ideally need to be carefully designed into well-insulated, airtight homes to ensure optimum efficiency.

However, heat pumps work very differently to boilers in that they don't create heat — instead they move heat from one place to another through the vapour compression cycle (or refrigeration process) to make it useable.

There are two main types of air source heat pump:

• Air to water heat pumps are used in wet central heating systems to heat radiators, underfloor heating and sometimes to generate hot water.
• Air to air heat pumps are perhaps better known as air conditioning, and heat the air directly. This will include some level of air movement and noise as you'd expect from an air conditioning unit.

This article will focus on air to water heat pumps. These work by heat being absorbed into a fluid from the air, which causes it to ‘boil’ and become a gas. The gas is then compressed, raising its temperature. The higher temperature is then transferred into the heating system (i.e. the radiators or underfloor heating).

The efficiency of a heat pump, or rather the measure of the heat energy output per kW of electricity, is stated as the COP (Coefficient of Performance) or SCOP (Seasonal Coefficient of Performance). The SCOP is the average COP over a defined period of time, such as a year. For example, a SCOP of 3.2 means that for every 1kW of electricity, 3.2kW of heat is generated.

It is also worth noting that air source heat pumps need electricity to power them. This can be from the grid or from renewable energy sources such as solar panels (ideally with solar battery storage), assuming it can generate the required amount of power.

Pros of air source heat pumps

It is essential to design and specify the system correctly. When it comes to knowing is my home suitable for a heat pump, ideally the insulation, airtightness and emitters (typically underfloor heating or carefully sized radiators) of the property should be optimised to allow you to get the most out of your air source heat pump.

There are many benefits to installing an air source heat pump, including:

• Unlike a gas boiler, an air source heat pump does not produce carbon when operating. While they do use electricity, ASHPs can be combined with solar PV panels or a renewable/green energy tariff for clean electricity.
• In the right context, air source heat pumps have comparatively low running costs, especially when compared with off-grid fuels such as propane, oil or direct electric heating. The cost of installing an air source heat pump will depend on the complexity of the install, alongside factors such as the distance from the heat pump unit, as well as whether or not the homeowner can take advantage of grants such as the Boiler Upgrade Scheme.
• The outdoor unit takes up less space when compared to an above-ground oil or LPG tank.
• Air source heat pumps partner well with underfloor heating.
• There are certain grants available to offset the costs of installing an air source heat pump, such as the Boiler Upgrade Scheme.
• Some models can also be used for cooling a home, but you will need to weigh up heat pumps vs air conditioning before opting for this solution.

Cons of air source heat pumps

While there are many benefits, there are also some cons too, including:

• They are not a ‘one-size-fits-all’ solution and may not be suitable for every home in the same way as gas boilers are. They're ideally paired with well-insulated, airtight homes.
• Installing an air source heat pump in an existing home is more complex and replacing a gas boiler will inevitably be much more expensive than a like-for-like replacement.
• Electricity is still needed to power an air source heat pump, so they are not entirely 'renewable' unless paired with PV panels or a renewable energy tariff.
• Electricity prices are currently high. Campaigners are asking the government to move environmental levies off electricity bills, with the focus on air source heat pumps, to ensure that it's always cheaper to run a heat pump than a gas boiler.
• The bigger the difference between the outside air and the target temperature (either the indoor room temperature or domestic hot water), the lower the efficiency.
• A separate solution may be required for providing hot water for the home.
• If you want to know are air source heat pumps noisy, some may reach 40 to 60 decibels, but this depends on the manufacturer and installation, according to Quiet Mark, which certifies the quietest heat pumps.

Using an ASHP for heating and hot water

One of the key decisions to make when buying an air source heat pump is whether it will provide space heating or domestic hot water — or both.

The ‘flow temperature’ (the temperature of the water in the heating system) is lower in a heat pump than it is in a boiler. This means:

• Space heating will usually require a flow temperature of around 35°C to 45°C for underfloor heating or low-temperature radiators.
• Domestic hot water will, however, require a minimum flow temperature of 55°C.

On new homes that meet recent and current Building Regulations, most air source heat pumps can do both, but this is not always the case.

Having two heat pumps as a solution

One solution is to use two heat pumps: one that is optimised for the space heating and another for domestic hot water.

The advantages of using the two heat pumps is that each unit is optimised for the required flow temperature and there is no priority system that causes the space heating circuit to ‘cool’ while the domestic hot water is being reheated.

The domestic hot water heat pump typically uses a different refrigerant that can produce higher flow temperatures but also requires a higher source temperature (10°C) to be efficient.

It tends to be lot smaller than a space heating heat pump and is usually built into the hot water cylinder. It draws its air from the room it is in, or the kitchen or bathroom (or all of them) or from the exhaust waste heat of a ducted mechanical ventilation system — and is known as an ‘exhaust air heat pump’ or a ‘micro heat pump’.

It is crucial that this system is designed properly so as to not over ventilate the property and only uses heat from the air that would normally have been exhausted to atmosphere.

Having a high temperature heat pump

A further option is a high temperature heat pump. There are different variants available, but these could offer temperatures of 60-80°C.

In order to achieve higher temperatures, some manufacturers have built the two different refrigerant systems into one heat pump in a ‘cascade’ system that can create flow temperatures of up to 80°C.

These systems are designed for hot water and should not really be used as a high temperature boiler replacement unless the lower efficiency has been carefully calculated to ensure that it is the best option for the property. In other words, they're best suited to well-insulated, airtight homes.

Assessing whether to install an ASHP

An air source heat pump for a new home

The efficiency of an air source heat pump is dependent on a number of factors, including the fabric of your home. In a new build, especially one that has been built with fabric first principles at the forefront, equipping your home with an air source heat pump is definitely worth considering. Not only do they offer low carbon heating for your home, they're also reliable and last much longer than a gas boiler.

Air source heat pumps do not tend to go wrong too often either, and a good quality air source heat pump could last up to 20 years. Pair that with the potential to regain some of the initial expense through the Boiler Upgrade Scheme, and it's a worthwhile investment in the future of your home.

An air source heat pump for an existing home

Should I swap my boiler for an air source heat pump? is a popular question at present. It's not as simple as it sounds to switch, and deciding to retrofit an air source heat pump in an existing home will mean certain changes will need to be made.

A boiler works at a high flow temperature of around 70°C, but an air source heat pump operates at a lower temperature — around 35°C to 45°C for the radiator system and around 55°C for hot water.

Unless your home's current radiators are over-specified, it's likely you'll need to replace radiators with new ones that have a higher output, alongside room by room controls and a heat pump-compatible hot water storage.

The lower temperatures will also mean that an air source heat pump is ideally compatible with homes that have high levels of insulation and airtightness.

The levels of insulation and airtightness are often not optimised in older properties. This would cause the heat pump to operate at increased flow temperatures, resulting in lower efficiency and higher running costs. This will mean added cost in remedying these immediate fabric issues before installing an air source heat pump.

"The problem homebuilders and government bodies are facing is the way we have historically built our homes. The 1970s era of homebuilding ignored fabric heat loss as gas was cheap, which led to the installation of gas central heating," says Keith Bastian, CEO of renewable home heating provider Fischer Future Heat.

"This building approach has put us an a big disadvantage to install heat pumps," continues Keith. "A house that is poorly insulated will require a larger heat pump to make up for heat loss, and this could cost more money to install and to run."

Finally, when weighing up a heat pump vs a gas boiler in an existing home, an air source heat pump may actually cost more to run (though is much more sustainable), so when it comes to retrofitting a heat pump, it's often more attractive when replacing a more expensive heating system such as electric heating.

Checklist for whether to install an ASHP

There are some key criteria your home will need to meet to make installing an air source heat pump viable, including:

1. Do you have enough space for one to be installed? You'll need to have space for a unit to be attached to a wall or fitted on the ground, with space around it to ensure a good airflow. For an air source heat pump to be installed under Permitted Development, it also needs to be located at least one metre from the boundary of the house. The internal unit for an air source heat pump is generally smaller than a gas boiler. However, you will need space for a hot water cylinder, if you do not have one already, and controls.

2. What heating system will you use? The big question: do air source heat pumps work with radiators? For space heating, air source heat pumps work best with underfloor heating, but low-flow temperature radiators, such as oversized radiators, multi-finned aluminium radiators or fan convectors, will work as well. In existing homes, this might require you to upgrade the radiators you already have.

3. How well insulated is your home? Air source heat pumps work more efficiently when producing heat at a lower temperature, so a home that requires less space heating because it is better insulated is key to getting the most from this technology.

4. What system are you replacing? The initial expenditure of an air source heat pump is high, even with a government-funded grant helping claw back some of the outlay. Air source heat pumps are much more cost-effective to install in a new home, as the pipework and emitters will be designed around them from the outset. In an existing home, the installation may necessitate work to the existing heating system.

FAQs

How long does it take to install an ASHP?

Air source heat pump installation is a relatively low-disruption process which could take as little as a single day to undertake.

A solid base for the air source heat pump should be constructed and, when retrofitting, all alterations to the fabric of the house and radiator systems should be completed before the installation date.

An air source heat pump should be installed and commissioned by an accredited Microgeneration Certification scheme (MCS) installer. An incorrectly commissioned air source heat pump may use a lot more electricity.

Do air source heat pumps work in winter?

Do air source heat pumps work in cold weather? An air source heat pump gets its energy from the surrounding air, so as the ambient air temperature drops, so does the efficiency. It is therefore key to understand the heat load of the property and the performance characteristics of the heat pump.

When it gets closer to zero degrees outside, the air source heat pump will also need to perform a defrost cycle more often and this will also lower the efficiency.

However, while the efficiency may drop, that doesn't mean that air source heat pumps don't work in cold weather. It's been found that they can extract heat from the air in temperatures as low as -20°C, and are used in cold climates around the world.

For more information on living with an air source heat pump, read my Mitsubishi Ecodan 11.2kw heat pump review and find out how to maintain a heat pump. Or, if you're looking for an alternative to a gas boiler, but don't think an air source heat pump is right for your home, there are many other systems you could investigate, including ground source heat pumps, a biomass boiler, solar thermal and hydrogen heating.

Ground source heat pumps are well established as a low-carbon heating solution, and a long-term alternative to using fossil fuels to heat your home and hot water. But, unlike other heat sources, there's a heavier amount of work and investment involved upfront that can limit their viability in certain homes.

On a positive note, for those homes that do suit the use of a ground source heat pump, the outcome is an efficient, long-lasting, low-carbon system, with little maintenance requirements.

In this expert guide to ground source heat pumps we'll take a look at how they work, the different types, the pros and cons and what you can expect to pay and get back in return.

Types of ground source heat pump

Ground source heat pumps may seem complex compared to air source heat pumps, but they are quite simple bits of kit. They use a series of buried pipes that extract the energy from the sun that warms the ground. The heat pump then amplifies that energy into useful heat for your home.

There are two ways in which the heat is extracted from the ground. A horizontal array where pipes are laid around 1m below ground over a large surface area. A vertical or borehole array is a loop of pipe that, as the name suggests, goes vertically down into the ground.

In addition there is a water source heat pump, which while slightly different, does normally get considered in the ground source heat pump category – information which is all important to know when asking 'is my home suitable for a heat pump'.

Which one you choose will be dependant on a number of variables. “It really comes down to the space you have outside and what’s practical for your plot," says David Billingsley, sales director at Kensa Heat Pumps.

"If you’ve got plenty of land, a horizontal ground loop is often the best option. If space is tighter, vertical boreholes may be the best solution. A reputable company will assess your garden and access, then recommend the best solution for your home. There’s no one‑size‑fits‑all, which is actually a good thing, as it means it is tailored to your home and needs.”

1. Horizontal ground array

Formed from either straight pipes or coiled pipes (known as slinkies), there is no technical or efficiency difference between the two types of pipe used in ground source heat pump installations, and the installer (together with the manufacturer), will advise which is best for your situation.

Whether you choose a horizontal array often comes down to how much space does a ground source heat pump need.

Both straight and coiled pipes should ideally be 1.2m below ground level, and equally as important as the depth, is the spacing between the pipes. As the horizontal ground array is collecting heat introduced to the ground by the sun, pipes need to be spaced sufficiently far apart to ensure they do not take more heat than they should and chill the ground.

The guidelines are 3m for straight pipes and 5m for slinkies (assuming clay soil but wider for other soil types). In addition, pipes need to be at least 5m from the boundary with any adjoining property.

2. Vertical array

A vertical array will have boreholes drilled into the ground and connected across their tops.

The number and depth of boreholes will be dictated by the size of the heat pump and the geology. These can be anything from 70m to 120m deep.

As the temperature of the ground rises, it is often advantageous to have fewer, deeper boreholes, but that is not always possible. As an example, a 8kW heat pump is likely to need at least three boreholes around 70m deep.

They do not need a large area of land and if the price is right, a vertical array is a good option. However, the price of boreholes can vary hugely across the country.

3. Water source heat pumps

Though far less common, you can also make use of bodies of water, such as lakes, rivers, ponds and streams, using a ground source heat pump system. Known as water source heat pumps, pipes are installed via pond mats submerged into the water.

Not only does this remove the need for disruptive digging, but the return energy to the heat pump is generally 5-6°C higher than standard collectors, improving the overall efficiency.

Equipment that will need to be located inside your house

In terms of what's inside your house, both types will require a heat pump which can either be in a cupboard, or a dedicated plant room, often located on an outside wall to provide easy access to the pipework. Some units also include a hot water cylinder and this can be the size of a large filing cabinet.

“Inside the house, a ground source heat pump doesn’t take up much space at all," confirms David Billingsley. "The indoor unit often fits neatly into a utility room or plant room. Because everything is indoors, there’s no bulky unit or tank outside, which many homeowners really like.”

How does a ground source heat pump work?

Once the pipes have been installed, a mix of water and anti-freeze is pumped around the ground array pipes to absorb the low-grade heat provided by solar energy and stored in the ground.

The heat pump uses compression and expansion technology (as your fridge does), to extract and amplify that heat, increasing the temperature and making it useful in the house.

The ground loop of any ground source heat pump is made up of a number of pipe loops – anything from 2 loops to 12 loops – that are connected to a manifold in a bespoke chamber in the ground. There are then two slightly larger bore pipes that connect the manifold to the heat pump unit in the house.

The amount of heat that can be collected will be dictated by the soil conditions and the amount of unshaded land available. Clay, for example, holds more heat than sand.

As a rule of thumb, an area of 50m2 is needed for each 1kW of heat output. So an 8kW heat pump will need 400m2, assuming damp clay soil. (For context, a tennis court is 260m2.)

Before installing a ground source heat pump, a good installer will investigate the ground conditions to determine the type of soil, if there is sufficient space for a horizontal array, or if boreholes will be necessary.

Advantages of ground source heat pumps

There a good number of benefits to ground source heat pumps vs gas boilers, says David Billingsley.

“The biggest benefits are efficiency, comfort and reliability. Ground source heat pumps deliver very steady heating all year round, they’re extremely quiet, and they cost less to run than all other alternatives.

They also last a long time – the underground pipework can last over 100 years," he notes. "While other systems may have slightly cheaper upfront costs, GSHPs stand out for their longevity, low running costs and long-term performance. Once installed, they’re very much a fit‑and‑forget solution.”

Other benefits include:

• If you sign-up to a renewable energy-only electricity supplier then CO2 emissions for the whole house, not just the heating system, will be effectively zero.
• They work with other renewables. You could also consider running a ground source heat pump along with solar PV panels to provide electricity for the heat pump
• The Boiler Upgrade Scheme is available to help offset some of the costs of ground source heat pumps

Disadvantages of ground source heat pumps

While the long-term benefits of ground source heat pumps are undeniable, it's the initial investment and disruption that can be off-putting to some homeowners.

The high capital cost of installing a ground source is prohibitive to many, and there will be significant disturbance to the garden, particularly when installing a horizontal ground array.

As with installing an air source heat pump, you may also need to factor in the cost of upgrading your home's insulation and could need to replace some types of radiators for low-flow versions, larger ones or even underfloor heating.

Cost & efficiency of ground source heat pumps

Efficiency is stated as the CoP (coefficient of performance) and a typical figure for a ground source heat pump would be around 4.0.

This means that for each 1kW of electricity used to drive the heat pump, it will produce 4.0kW of heat. It is primarily this efficiency of around 400% that makes ground source heat pumps a good idea.

“Ground source heat pumps are the most efficient heating systems available," confirms David Billingsley. "They typically deliver four units of heat for every unit of electricity used.

"Because they draw heat from the stable temperature underground, they perform consistently all year round – even in very cold weather," he confirms, "which helps keep running costs low and energy use predictable.”

As GSHP’s are electrically operated, the homeowner will also have flexibility to access smart tariffs via their utility provider and further reduce the GSHP’s operating costs.

The key issues to reducing your initial costs and ensuring low running costs and high efficiency are:

• Taking a fabric first approach to your home – as with any form of heating, a well-insulated house helps. It could mean you need a smaller heat pump, a smaller ground array (or fewer boreholes) and require less electricity to power it – reducing both your capital and running costs
• Installing a well-designed system as specifying a heat pump is more complex than specifying a gas boiler. It is common to over-specify the size of your gas boiler ‘just in case’, but this is not a good idea when it comes to heat pumps. An over-sized system is more expensive and operates less efficiently than the right sized one

Costs for ground source heat pumps

Complete ground source heat pump costs for a 240m2 home, including installation, will start from around £16,000 but there are a number of factors which impact the costs including:

• The complexity of the installation, including the distance from the heat pump unit to the ground loop manifold chamber which will add to the installation cost
• The type of installation – more specifically, whether a horizontal or vertical array is required
• Bigger properties will need larger heat pumps, even possibly more than one unit, alongside a more complex hydraulic design

“Ground source heat pumps (GSHP’s) are a bigger upfront investment than traditional heating systems," agrees David Billingsley, but the funding and returns can be considerable.

"Homeowners in England and Wales can currently access up to £7,500 per heat pump through the Boiler Upgrade Scheme, which makes a real difference," he notes, "and when you factor in much lower running costs and a system that can last decades, many people see it as a long‑term investment delivering heating for generations, rather than a bolt-on short-term fix.”

FAQs

What size ground source heat pump will I need?

Big enough to heat the house, and no more is the general advice. A modern 4-bedroom house is likely to need an 8kW heat source but could often have a 20kW boiler installed.

There are commercial and technical reasons for this oversizing a gas boiler, but a heat pump is not the same. In that situation the heat pump would need to be 8kW and no more, to achieve maximum efficiency.

A good installer will calculate the exact amount of heat needed for the house to determine the size of the heat pump needed.

Do I need planning permission for a ground source heat pump?

There is nothing externally visible, and a ground source heat pump is usually considered as a Permitted Development so you shouldn't require planning permission. However, if the property is in a conservation area or overlooked by a listed property, it is wise to consult your local authority first.

What are hybrid ground source heat pumps?

Hybrid heat pumps are, in essence, one system that contains both a heat pump and a boiler. The benefits of these systems are that the right heating system can be used to suit the right temperature, helping to reduce running costs, while also keeping carbon emissions as low as possible.

Due to the low-temperature nature of ground source heat pumps, they're better suited to heating a well-insulated home at a milder temperature, while when the temperature drops very low outside, the requirements of the GSHP to reach the heating levels required inside makes it less efficient.

In a hybrid heat pump, at this point a boiler would kick in, ensuring that gas (and potentially other fuels such as hydrogen in the future) are used when it becomes the more efficient option.

Can I install a ground source heat pump myself?

No, it's not advisable to install a ground source heat pump yourself as a DIY project. Installing both the heat pump and the ground array are technically complex tasks, best left to trained, experienced installers.

“Ground source heat pumps need to be designed and installed by trained professionals – particularly the groundworks and electrical connections – so it’s not a DIY job in the traditional sense," says David Billingsley.

What's more, to qualify for Boiler Upgrade Scheme, the system must be installed by an MCS-accredited supplier.

"However, homeowners often get involved early on by planning layouts, timing installations with building work, or coordinating ground array trenches or landscaping if they have a self‑build or renovation project,” notes David.

Those well-versed in groundworks, or using a digger and dumper, may also wish to dig the ground trenches for a horizontal array themselves. Digging boreholes for vertical arrays requires specialist equipment and should always be left to the professionals.

How do I find a good ground source heat pump installer?

The key to installing a ground source heat pump is finding a trustworthy installer who will design and size your system and a good starting point is to choose a member of the GSHP Association and/or use a MCS registered installer.

The indicators of a good installer would be someone who checks the soil conditions and offers quality equipment. But it also usually comes down to due diligence: checking the installer’s history and the references they supply.

Can you use a ground source heat pump with radiators?

The short answer is yes. Ideally, these need to be low-flow radiators, sized and designed to work with heat pumps. They are typically larger than standard radiators.

This is because standard radiators are designed to work with the high flow temperature available from a gas or oil boiler. However, increasing the surface size of standard radiators can also help ensure enough heat is available.

What maintenance does a ground source heat pump need?

Heat pumps are not maintenance free, and it's important to know how to maintain a heat pump properly, but as they are sealed systems the maintenance burden is fairly low. Like any heating system they need an annual check of the main components.

Are ground source heat pumps noisy?

One of the more common heat pump myths – all heating products make some noise, but heat pumps are usually quieter than fossil fuel boilers. The loudest ground source heat pumps may reach 42 decibels, whereas a modern boiler will be around 40-60 decibels.

Can ground source heat pumps provide cooling?

It may also come as a surprise that ground source heat pumps could also be a cooling solution for your home.

Kensa Heat Pumps technical director, Dan Roberts, explains: “Heat pumps are pivotal to heat decarbonisation, but very few are aware of their cooling capabilities. Along with being a highly efficient heating source ground source heat pumps can also provide environmentally friendly, extremely low-cost cooling and overheating protection.

“Kensa’s ground source heat pumps can be set up to deliver ‘passive cooling’, where the system uses the low ground temperature to provide cooling for a building," says Dan.

"Within this system, it’s not necessary to power a compressor and it only takes a small circulation pump and fan to distribute the cool air to the property effectively, preventing overheating for a fraction of the cost of what's required to run traditional air conditioning."

While the cost of a ground source heat pump is more than installing or replacing a gas boiler, it’s worth factoring in the longevity of these systems versus that of a standard combi boiler. This combined with low running costs and the benefits to the environment mean it is reasonable to suggest that properly installed in the right situation there is no better alternative when it comes to sustainable heating for the home.

But, if space is going to limit your options for this particular renewable form of energy, take a look at what's involved with air source heat pump installation instead, and find out how to work out your energy needs and choose the right renewables to help future-proof your self-build or renovation.

Building Regulations Part L covers the conservation of fuel and power in the building of new homes in England, and establishes how energy-efficient new and existing homes should be.

From 15 June 2022 an important update to the Building Regulations will take place which includes an uplift to Part L. All new homes must produce 31% less carbon emissions than what is currently acceptable in the present Part L regulations.

The changes could affect anyone undertaking a home improvement project, extension, renovation or self build, so here's what you need to know about Part L, the new regulations, and how the changes will apply to your project.

What is Building Regulations Part L?

Part L is split into several documents which cover different areas:

• Approved Document Part L1A: Covers the requirements for new homes to be energy efficient, and individuals responsible for building work must ensure that the homes complies with the requirements provided within this document
• Approved Document Part L1B: Covers the requirements for renovations and extensions to existing homes to be energy efficient. It recognises that it is not always possible to meet new build standards, but the regulations state that if a thermal element (roof, wall or floor) is being replaced or renovated then it must be done to Part L1A standard.

Meanwhile, Approved Document L2A covers the required energy standards during construction of new commercial buildings, and Approved Document L2B covers existing buildings other than dwellings.

What Are The New Regulations?

In December 2021 the government announced that from June 2022 several new Building Regulations would affect those self building, renovating a house, adding an extension or taking on home improvements. These are the key changes to Part L:

New homes

New homes will now be assessed under a new Standard Assessment Procedure (SAP) calculation called SAP10. Formerly calculated using SAP 2012, SAP10 is an update on this methodology, setting greater insulation requirements and a new target primary energy rate, expressed as kWhPE/(m² per year).

Self builders will be encouraged to meet ‘notional’ dwelling targets for energy efficiency. These are measured in U-values (the amount of energy that is lost through any material): if you can meet the reference targets for elements and systems including party walls, floors, doors and roofs then your home will result in a pass with building control.

However, a maximum U-values target is also included to allow for design flexibility. Your home can perform better or worse than the reference values, so long as the Target Emission Rate (TER) is reached. The full U-value targets can be found here.

Another new requirement is for self builders to conduct an on-site audit to confirm that the design details in your plans have been constructed, and photographs must be taken as evidence.

Moreover, due to concerns over thermal bridging causing heat loss and condensation, the new regulations advise that “opportunities should be considered to use products that help to reduce thermal bridges”.

Dr Sarah Price, Technical Director at QODA Consulting, says of these new recommendations: “The U-values are not going to have a big impact, but they do help a little towards reducing demand in new buildings. The photographic evidence has the potential to have a big impact on the actual performance of buildings – assuming it is checked by someone.”

The uplift will also encourage the installation of air source heat pumps and ground source heat pumps.

Existing homes

If you’re looking to introduce new or replacement thermal elements to your home, such as new windows and doors, then minimum new fabric efficiency standards will now apply.

The government has introduced a ‘full fabric specification’ for setting the level of the Fabric Energy Efficiency Standard (FEES). This means a tightening of U-values.

U-values need to be improved in walls and replacement thermal elements from 0.28W/m2K to 0.18W/m2K, and the minimum values for doors, windows and roof windows has improved from 1.6 to 1.4. The U-value for doors has gone from 1.8 to 1.4, while fire doors can meet the U-value of 1.8 in line with previous standards.

Extensions will also be required to have no more than 25% floor area as glazing (windows, roof windows, rooflights), alternatively homeowners must be able to demonstrate compliance with an area-weighted U-value calculation or via SAP - which can offer more freedom of design.

Improvements are also required in lighting efficiency but perhaps the biggest challenge is the new low flow temperatures for heating systems. The maximum flow temperatures in a central heating system is now 55°C where it was previously over 75°C.

This lower flow temperature will all but eliminate any burn risk on the hot surfaces but will require radiators to have around a 30% larger surface area which will add cost and potentially take up more wall area. However, lower flow temperatures will make it much easier to later retrofit homes with air source heat pumps and ground source heat pumps.

When do the New Regulations Begin?

Approved Documents L (volumes 1 and 2) come into effect on 15 June 2022, however a grace period will take effect until 2023 for buildings that are currently still in the planning process.

This means that if you have applied for a building notice or initial notice before 15 June 2022, your project will still be considered under the previous regulations, provided building work begins before 15 June 2023.

If you gained Building Regulations approval under the old regulations, you must begin work on the unit by 15 June 2023 or the new regulations will apply.

How Significant are the New Regulations?

It would be unfair to say that planned changes ignore the fabric of the building as there are indeed some improvements.

The new rules require a 30% reduction in carbon when compared to 2013 Part L standards, which may seem quite high, but they are rather insignificant when compared with the 75–80% reduction in carbon which will be required by the Future Homes Standard.

Mark Siddall, principal architect and director of research at the Lovely Engineered Architectural Practice (LEAP), says: “I think the updates could go a lot further. We should be aspiring towards better performing buildings, and the Building Regs are tailored towards the lowest common denominator. There could be more ambitious fabric standards and overall performance, which would cut people’s bills, improve their comfort and also reduce carbon emissions.”

Dr Price adds: “Now we’re beginning to insulate buildings properly, we’ve done the easy bit and we’re down to the finer detail, including thermal bridging, airtightness and ventilation. These three remaining components of heat loss are not improving in current Building Regulations, which is very disappointing and a lot of the industry wrote to this effect when the changes to Part L came out. The changes do not go far enough and don’t recognise the need to build affordable, healthy homes.”

Ultimately, though, better insulation will improve the energy efficiency of a home which in turn will lead to reduced energy use and therefore lower energy bills. This change must therefore be seen as a positive thing.

How to Meet Part L1A of the Building Regs for New Builds

The planned carbon reductions can mainly be achieved through the implementation of renewable technologies such as solar PV panels and heat pumps.

But the Future Homes Standard will require a significant emphasis on improvement to the fabric of the building, and it is this standard that really focuses on the fabric of the building rather than simply offsetting waste with clean energy. The real target is to use less, a lot less.

Follow these step-by-step guidelines for meeting Part L1A of the Building Regs for new builds:

• Choose a local Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) assessor (find one here)
• Provide your assessor with architectural drawings and specification in full detail
• Include Approved Construction Details (ACDs) as part of the design, if you can. These are large-scale section details of elements like window openings and eaves details. They aim to ensure airtightness and reduce cold bridging from key parts of the structure and help towards achieving compliance
• An SAP assessor will input the plans and information and complete the design calculation before work starts
• The designer agrees SAP input or reviews it after advice if the design does not pass. Once the design has been amended and meets requirement L1A, the design assessment and SAP calculations are submitted to building control before work starts on site
• Construction begins; any changes from specification should be notified to the SAP assessor during the build to ensure it still remains compliant
• Near completion, an air pressure test is carried out and as-built confirmations are provided to the SAP assessor, including declarations of the ACDs used during the build
• Assessor produces the as-built SAP calculations and lodges an EPC against the new home’s postal address
• As-built SAP calculations and EPC are submitted to the building control body.

SAP Calculations: Where to Start?

For new builds, SAP calculations are made at the design stage to arrive at a Predicted Energy Assessment (PEA). This provides a rating of energy performance based on the design of the house and shows the building inspector that the home will meet the requirements under Building Regulations Part L.

When the build is nearing completion, an airtightness testing will be undertaken in order to establish the ‘as-built’ airtightness (or air leakage rate). While airtightness technically isn't being improved as a singular measure under the new regulations, better airtightness is a way of achieving a better SAP score.

Finally, the SAP assessor will create an EPC, which is required for homes when built, sold or let. Authorised SAP assessors are needed to produce these calculations and ultimately your completed home’s EPC.

As such, you will need to find a consultant - these are referred to as ‘on build’ SAP assessors. You can search for a registered assessor or check the credentials of one on the EPC Register. (The procedure and licensing of these assessors is different to that of the assessors who process SAP calculations for existing buildings).

The calculation process has to take place early in the design stage so that the design is specified correctly for the thermal insulation levels, as well as heating and hot water products.

Testing for Air Leakage

The air leakage rate can only be speculated at the early stages. Nevertheless, an assumed value has to be entered at the design stage. Part L1A of the Building Regulations set minimum requirements for testing at a back-stop value of 10m3/hr/m2 but often the rate needed to hit the TER is much lower.

Typically, design figures of between 4 and 6m3/hr/m2 are used. These can easily be achieved with some attention to detail during the build. Either way, when the building works are complete, the real air leakage rate will be discovered by on-site testing. Most high-performance builds such as Passivhaus homes regularly achieve much lower than 1m3/hr/m2.

All new dwellings need to be tested on completion, with two exceptions:

• If the same builder has produced an identical construction in the last 12 months and successfully passed an airtightness test
• Where a high default value of 15m3/hr/m2 has been used in the SAP calculation. If you want to avoid the worry of site testing, you can choose to enter a rate of 15 for the air leakage rate. It’s the equivalent of leaving a large window open during the test and it exempts you from testing at all. In this case, you will be heavily compensating for it with super-thick insulation and other measures.

Ideally the airtightness test (carried out and certified by licensed testers) should be undertaken when the building is as close to completion as possible. As a minimum, the building envelope needs to be completed but does not need to be decorated or carpeted.

Vents are sealed or taped over to help identify areas of air (and therefore heat) leakage where gaps and holes have not been sealed correctly.

With the real air leakage rate known and a certificate issued, the figure can be entered into the as-built SAP calculations. These figures are then run again to produce evidence of compliance and the final EPC.

If the house fails its SAP due to air leakage, the test engineers may use coloured smoke and positive air pressure to reveal where the gaps are. If it fails due to a change of design during the build – perhaps a boiler was changed for a less efficient one or the glazing areas were increased, for example – the remediation may be harder to achieve. It may result in the need for some solar-power installation or heat recovery ventilation.

Armed with heat recovery to steal back the heat from stale air before it’s exhausted out, these heat recovery ventilation systems can be essential in achieving compliance.

For many people, knowing the difference between planning permission and Building Regulations – and when they might need to apply for approval for each – can cause something of a headache. Thankfully, we're on hand to explain everything you need to know.

Our simple guide will not only explain the differences between the regulations and rules, but will also help you understand when you will be required to submit an application for each.

Depending on the nature of your project and the work you intend to carry out, you'll typically find that you need to submit both a planning permission application as well as a separate one for Building Regulations approval — while in other cases neither will be required. 

So, if you are about to embark on a self build, renovation, extension or remodelling project, read on to make sure it complies to all the necessary permissions and requirements.

What Exactly Is the Difference Between Planning Permission and Building Regulations?

This is actually not as complicated as it might first appear — planning permission and Building Regulations are two very different things. 

It is true that both require you to make an application with regards to carrying out work to your property, but they give authorisation and approval for totally different aspects of building projects. It is important to understand what type of work each applies to and when they might affect you.

When making a planning application you are basically asking whether or not you are allowed to carry out your proposed building work. 

When you seek Building Regulations approval, you are asking Building Control to check that the work you are carrying out (which should already be allowed under planning permission) meets the acceptable construction standards.

Sometimes you will need both, sometimes just one, sometimes neither — but having approval for one does not ever mean you have approval for the other. 

What is Planning Permission?

Put very simply, planning permission is asking the planning department of your local council whether you are allowed to carry out building work. This might be for a self build, or an extension, for example. 

Once your application has been submitted, it will either be granted, in which case, subject to any planning conditions being discharged, you can go ahead with the proposed work, or refused, in which case you can't — although you can appeal. 

Planning permission should be sought and granted before work begins. 

The planning officer in charge of your case will assess whether your planned work meets local and national policies, as well as whether what's proposed would have a detrimental effect on surroundings or neighbours. 

When it comes to any questions or queries you might have about planning permission, whether you need it and how to apply, your first port of call should be your local planning authority. 

When Is Planning Permission Required?

If you are wondering 'Do I Need Planning Permission?', you should bear in mind that if you plan on building a new dwelling you will almost certainly require permission. 

Some bigger outbuildings and extensions will also need planning permission, and if you live in a designated area, such as a Conservation Area, you will be more likely to have to make an application for even small alterations.  

However, there is also plenty you can do to your home without planning permission — these are jobs that fall under permitted development.

What Are Building Regulations?

Building Regulations are a set of criteria and standards designed to make sure that properties are safe, comfortable and energy efficient. 

The Building Regulations are made up of a set of 'Approved Documents', each relating to different areas of buildings, such as electrics and thermal efficiency. 

Unlike planning permission, the majority of building work requires Building Regulations approval, including works such as extensions, garage and loft conversions, fitting new windows or even new heating systems. 

It is also useful to be aware that there are two types of Building Regulation applications — Full Plans or Building Notice applications. 

In the case of a Building Notice, you can carry out work without first gaining approval, although you still have to inform Building Control of your intentions and fill out an application. They will then visit to check your work complies. 

"This can be a risky approach; if the work doesn't comply you will be forced to take remedial action. Building Notices are only really suitable for smaller projects, while for projects such as extensions you're best taking the Full Plans route," says Claire Lloyd, editor of Homebuilding & Renovating.

A Full Plans application is where you submit plans and documents to be approved before starting work, meaning you know from the off that everything has been checked and approved by a building control inspector and that it complies. The officer will then visit the project at key stages.

When Do I Need To Apply For Building Regulations?

If you are self building, your new home will need to meet Building Regulations — a building control inspector will come out at various stages of the build to inspect the work, finally issuing a completion certificate.

If you plan on carrying out any new structural work or alterations to your existing home, you will also need Building Regulations approval. 

In addition, any work that involves the following will require approval too: 

• Electrics
• Insulation
• Drainage
• Heating appliances

That said, some work such as electrics or installing a woodburner can be self-certified under the competent person scheme. This means a separate trip from a building inspector is not required.

There are a few projects that are exempt from Building Regulations, including conservatories and detached garages under 30m2 and small add-ons such as porches. 

Self build mortgages are quite different to traditional mortgages, releasing funds in stages in order to provide the cashflow needed for building a new home, paying for materials and paying your contractors.

This makes a self build possible even for those who can't afford to finance the entire build from savings. That said, there are some limitations that come with this type of mortgage. They're less widely available than standard mortgages, which means they may be less competitive, and depending on the type of self build mortgage you choose, the rates are typically higher.

Availability has remained relatively stable into 2026, with the market still dominated by specialist lenders and building societies rather than major high street banks.

Understanding the world of self build mortgages isn't easy, so we've created this guide explaining how they work and the types available. We've also found some of the newest self build mortgage products to hit the market, plus you'll find the latest rates, updated in April 2026.

What is a self build mortgage? 

Unlike a traditional residential mortgage, where a single advance is made on completion, self build mortgages release funds in stages as your project progresses.

These staged payments reflect the increasing value of the property as it’s built – from land purchase through to completion.

Daniel Capstick, mortgage manager at Ecology Building Society, explains: "These staged releases reflect the progress and increasing value of the lender's security (your new home) from plot purchase to obtaining detailed planning consent and, of course, the build phases through to completion."

Before applying for a self build mortgage, there are a few key considerations:

• You’ll need detailed plans and a full breakdown of build costs
• A contingency fund (typically 10–20%) is strongly recommended
• Interest rates are higher than standard mortgages
• Fees (valuation, arrangement, inspections) are often higher
• You may be able to switch to a cheaper deal once the home is complete

Lenders also increasingly expect clear evidence of build viability, including labour and material costs, before approving applications.

Watch our video to find out how self build mortgages work

When are funds released with a self build mortgage?

With a self build mortgage, funds are typically released at these key stages of a self build schedule:

• Land (with the minimum of outline planning permission)
• Substructure
• Wallplate/eaves height (just before the roof trusses go on)
• Wind and watertight roof tiled
• First fix
• Second fix
• Certified completion

This staged approach helps lenders manage risk, as funds are released in line with the increasing value of the property.

For custom build or group self build projects:

• Purchase of land
• Associated preliminary costs and substructure
• Construction to wind and watertight stage
• First fix
• Second fix
• Completion

For renovation or conversion projects:

• Purchase of existing structure
• Inspected completion of structural survey and cost estimate of necessary works
• Completion of load bearing elements
• First fix
• Second fix
• Certified completion

Are there different types of self build mortgage?

There are two types of self build mortgages that you can choose from:

• Arrears mortgages: If you have a large amount of cash to hand to finance some of your self build home, an arrears type self build mortgage is your best bet. These offer payments in stages after each stage of the build is complete, meaning you front up the money for the stage and are ultimately repaid.
• Advance mortgages: For those reliant on the mortgage to fund each stage, an advance mortgage releases payments at the start of each stage. This will mean you don't require short-term or bridging loans to cover the build costs upfront if you were take out an arrears self build mortgage. For many people, this type of mortgage is understandably advantageous, offering help with cash flow, however, there are fewer providers who offer this kind of mortgage, and the rates may not be as competitive as an arrears type mortgage.

Some lending institutions lend on the land purchase or existing property and at key stages during and on completion of the build project.

This can vary from:

• 75-80% of the purchase price or valuation (whichever of the two is the lower)
• Up to 80% of build costs
• Up to 75% of the growth in value of your project at key stages during construction

Some lending institutions do not lend on land, but they will lend during the build period.

Products available include:

• Discount from standard variable rate of interest
• Fixed rate of interest
• Bank base rate tracker
• Offset

How much can I borrow with a self build mortgage? 

The amount you can borrow depends on your income and financial commitments, but in 2026 typical criteria include:

• Around 4–4.5x income, subject to affordability checks
• Up to 75–80% loan-to-value (LTV) with many lenders
• Some specialist products offering up to 80%+ of end value

For example:

• Ecology Building Society offers up to 80% LTV on self build mortgages
• Some products restrict borrowing to 65% LTV for lower-risk lending tiers

Deposits remain significant:

• Typically 20% for land purchase
• Plus 15–20% of build costs upfront

Chris Martin, head of product development at BuildStore, says: “Like other mortgages, the amount you can borrow will depend on your income and spending patterns, along with any other loans or credit you hold. As a general guide, most mortgage providers will consider lending around four-and-a-half times your gross yearly income.

"The amount you can borrow will also be limited by the mortgage product you choose," continues Martin. "Many products will potentially provide up to 80% of the value of your completed home, although products providing up to 95% of your build costs are available through specialist advisers."

Will I be eligible for a self build mortgage? 

Where you intend to live while you build will have an impact on your affordability to borrow money to build your dream home. For instance, the monthly rental payments or mortgage payments (if you intend to stay in your existing home) will have an impact on your affordability calculation.

Some lenders will accept you making upfront rental payments, which will not have an impact on your monthly income versus expenditure.

It's also worth noting that some lending institutions will not lend on certain construction systems, so do ensure you check with them.

Of course, all your design and construction methods will also need to be compliant with the current Building Regulations.

Each lender’s criteria are different, but you do need to ensure they are aware of your build type and of any payment terms and conditions your supplier has stipulated.

How do I apply for a self build mortgage?

The documentation required to apply for a self build mortgage is essentially the same as with a standard mortgage. However, additional supporting documentation will be required, which may include:

• Copy of planning permission
• Copy of construction drawings and specifications
• Copy of total project cost estimate (where possible, fixed-price contracts)
• Copy of Building Regulations approval
• Copy of site self build insurance and structural warranty
• Architect’s professional indemnity cover (if required)
• Experian credit report

An initial valuation will be carried out to establish the current value and the anticipated end value, too. (You will be required to pay the valuation fees.) Interim and final valuations will also be requested and carried out by a RICS valuer.

The reports will be presented to the lender to evidence the increase in the interim value(s) before the interim and final release of funds from the lender.

Other key points to consider include:

• A typical timescale for processing a stage release mortgage is up to three months
• Consultants, brokers, banks and building societies will carry out a forensic analysis of all supporting documents 
• In particular, they will focus on income and expenditure cross checked with the bank statements 

Which banks offer self build mortgages?

Self build mortgages remain a specialist area of UK lending, and are not widely offered by mainstream high street banks.

In practice, most major high street banks do not offer dedicated self build stage-payment mortgages directly to consumers.

Instead, the UK self build mortgage market is primarily served by:

• building societies
• specialist lenders
• broker intermediaries with access to multiple lenders

Self build mortgages are typically provided by regional building societies and specialist lenders, including:

• Bath Building Society – often accessed via intermediaries
• Buckinghamshire Building Society – specialist discounted and variable rate products
• Ecology Building Society – known for energy-efficient and sustainable self builds
• Harpenden Building Society – flexible underwriting and non-standard construction
• Melton Building Society – offers staged self build lending in selected cases
• Penrith Building Society – regional lender with niche construction expertise
• Saffron Building Society – supports self build and renovation lending
• Suffolk Building Society – offers staged release mortgages with flexible valuation approach

Many of these lenders do not operate a direct consumer sales model for self build mortgages.

For example, BuildStore works with a panel of specialist lenders and exclusive products designed specifically for self builders, including both arrears and advanced-stage funding options.

What are the latest mortgage rates?

Self build mortgage rates remain higher than standard residential mortgages due to staged risk and construction exposure.

Typical 2026 rate range:

• 5.5% – 6.5% (lower LTV / strong applications)
• 6.5% – 8.0%+ (higher LTV / complex builds / specialist cases)

FAQs

Are self build mortgage interest rates higher than standard mortgages?

Yes. Self build mortgage rates remain higher than standard residential mortgages due to the increased risks to lenders such as construction delays, valuations being based on future values and funds being released before the home exists in full.

Self build mortgages are typically ~5.5%–8%+, whereas standard residential mortgages are typically ~4.5%–5.5% (depending on fix period).

Do I change my mortgage once the build is complete? 

Yes. Once your home is completed, signed off by building control, and independently valued (usually by RICS), you will typically switch to a standard residential mortgage.

Do I need insurance and warranties to get a self build mortgage? 

A bank or building society may not release initial funds until you can demonstrate that you have a 10-year structural warranty policy in place. When taking out your warranty, it’s also a good time to ensure that you have the right site self build and renovation insurance policy in place to give you peace of mind should anything go wrong.

Anyone undertaking a build project, whether borrowing or not, should have both in place prior to starting work on site.

Subject to affordability, banks and building societies are keen to lend on residential construction projects, providing you have carried out due diligence and engaged the appropriate team(s) to achieve the successful construction of your new home.

Self build mortgages offer a structured way to fund your own home, releasing money in stages as the build progresses. While they require more planning and tighter affordability checks than standard mortgages, they remain a key route for turning self build projects into reality.

In 2026, the market is still led by specialist lenders and building societies rather than major high street banks, so using an experienced broker is often essential.

With careful budgeting, realistic costings, and the right lender, a self build mortgage can make your project achievable from plot to completion.

Right to Build is a piece of legislation that supports those who want to build their own homes, helping people get onto the housing ladder and create an individual home.

Launched in 2016, Right to Build is designed to help self builders and custom builders overcome one of the biggest hurdles they face — finding a self build or custom build plot. 

Prospective self builders are asked to log their desire to build their own home with their local authority via the Right to Build Registers (more on this below). As part of this legislation, local authorities must ensure that they have sufficient plots available to meet the demand, and demonstrate that planning permission (or permission in principle) has been granted on these plots within three years.

Local authorities across England are required to evidence this every year on 30 October — on Right to Build Day. 

If you are thinking about taking on a self build or custom build project, then make sure you are up to speed on the Right to Build scheme and how it can help. This guide explains what you need to know.

What is the Right to Build?

The Right to Build was passed in a bid to boost housebuilding and address concerns about affordability, and to make more individual and serviced plots available for those wanting to build their own homes. 

As part of the Housing and Planning Act 2016, local authorities are required to help find land for those who have an interest in building their own home. This is done through the Right to Build registers.

As of 1 April 2016, councils in England have had to keep a list of people or groups who would like to custom or self build, and make enough serviced plots available to meet the demand (which can be ascertained by the number registering for the Right to Build).

The government published the most recent data on sign-ups in May 2022. 

Where is the Right to Build Available?

The Right to Build is only open to those who want to build their own home in England. 

There is currently no equivalent for Scotland and Northern Ireland. The Welsh government, however, launched a promising and innovative self build scheme entitled Self Build Wales in 2020 - an initiative to help break down barriers for custom and self builders, and to encourage more people to build their own home in the country.

The £210m scheme provides a package of financial support, access to land, and planning permission. It is reported by the Welsh government to be the first scheme of its kind.

Industry body National Custom and Self Build Association (NaCSBA) is encouraging the Scottish Government to bring forward more opportunities for custom and self build. 

In Northern Ireland, land supply has always been much less of an issue and 15% of all new homes are commissioned by their owners, compared with 8% or so across the UK.

How do I Register for the Right to Build?

Anyone who is interested in building their own home is invited to register via your local authority website, or on the Right to Build Portal (a site set up by NaCSBA).

Eligibility Criteria

To eligible to register, you need to be:

• Be 18 years old of age or over
• A British citizen, a national of an EEA State other than the UK, or a national of Switzerland
• Seeking to acquire a plot to build a home which will be your sole or main residence

Some local authorities may have further criteria, and may also charge a fee to join their registers.

When you register for the Right to Build you are asked whether you are applying as an individual or as part of a group. Those applying as a group will get the chance to take on what is known as a co-housing project or community self build. The council will try to provide a plot for the group to build several homes, or flats.

If you apply as an individual (or family unit), you must be looking for a plot to build your sole residence on (so it can’t be used to build holiday homes or a buy-to-let). When you apply, the council may ask you to attend their offices with proof of identification.

Plot Type

The application forms also ask what kind of plot you had in mind and what kind of home you would like to build on it. However, what becomes available will largely depend on how many homes are required to be built in your area, and whether you are applying in an urban or rural setting. For example, urban applicants might find that the majority of plots are brownfield or infill and you should expect to see more custom build apartments or flats in these settings.

Many plots will be available as sites of several serviced plots (with utilities connected) so if you are determined to get an individual plot in rolling countryside, you might have to compromise on that dream and accept that you will be sharing it with a few neighbours. 

Alternatively, you might want to subscribe to plotfinder.net to find opportunities in your area. The online service provides details of more than 15,000 plots and renovation opportunities nationally.

Also bear in mind that the local authority has no legal duty to find a plot to match your personal requirements: they are simply required to make available the right number of plots to meet demand in their area.

And remember that you can register in more than one local authority, or with a different one if you want to move areas when you self build.

Is the Right to Build Scheme Working?

A total of 58,813 individuals were reported to be on the Right to Build registers between 31 October 2020 and 30 October 2021, an increase of 25% from a year earlier.

Yet only 8,309 planning permissions were granted for serviced plots suitable for self and custom build during this period. While this is still an increase of 7% from 2019-2020, NaCSBA says the “numbers remain far short” compared to underlying demand.

“Whilst we welcome the progress made, these numbers remain far short of the numbers that reflect underlying demand here in England, and the delivery rate in every other developed country,” said Andrew Baddeley-Chappell, NaCSBA CEO.

“There are many reasons for this. Awareness of the registers remains low, and barriers to joining in many cases too high.”

A Right to Build Task Force has been established by NaCSBA to support local authorities as they work to fulfil their Right to Build duties. And in August 2021, MP Richard Bacon published a landmark report into scaling up the delivery of self build, with one of his six recommendations to increase awareness of Right to Build. 

Right to Build is Under Review

In October 2020, the government announced it would review Right to Build laws with the aim of supporting self and custom builders.

As part of the review, the government said it would examine how effectively current legislation is supporting self and custom build across England, including whether it needed to increase land available for this purpose.

One criticism that has emerged regarding Right to Build is that some councils have manipulated data on the Right to Build registers to reduce the amount of self build plots they must permission.

Mr Bacon, a Right to Build ambassador, confirmed his awareness of some councils’ activities regarding the registers. He said in 2020: “Some councils are doing their best to manipulate the data on the register, and insisting on draconian conditions, such as ‘you have to have a mortgage offer in place’, or charging huge fees before letting you on the register,” he said. 

In April 2021, the government published its Self and Custom Build Action Plan, which included the next steps for the review. These included a ministerial roundtable with the self build sector in April, which would be used to assess whether further reforms of Right to Build laws were needed. 

The review into Right to Build was set to conclude in the summer of 2021, but the findings have not yet been published.

The action plan also included further funding for the Right to Build Task Force to help local authorities, community groups and other organisations deliver self and custom build housing projects across the UK.  

Right to Build Guidance Issued

In February 2021, the government announced new guidelines for its Planning Practice Guidance (previously updated in July 2017) related to custom and self build housing, including notable recommendations relating to the Right to Build registers. 

These included:

• Planning decisions should take into account demand from Right to Build registers data 
• Local authorities should consider the evidence of demand from the registers when carrying out housing functions, and when developing plans to dispose of land within their ownership
• Councils should consider how local planning policies can be reviewed to ensure enough serviced plots are permissioned for custom and self builders.

The guidance also states that councils can only set fees to join the registers on a cost recovery basis. "Any fees charged must therefore be proportionate, reflect genuine costs incurred, should not act as a deterrent for people to be entered on or remain on the register and should not be viewed as a mechanism to manage demand."

NaCSBA welcomed the update, which it said will "strengthen the guidance as a tool for shaping provision and implementation of the Right to Build", and "will support the delivery of custom and self build and ensure it factors as part of wider local housing strategies." 

What If My Local Authority Doesn’t Meet Its Duty under Right to Build?

Most councils have already embraced Right to Build, and having extra money from the government to carry out this work has helped. However, Michael Holmes said: “The response from local authorities is very inconsistent, with some local authorities being very proactive and some doing nothing at all.”

If your local authority is one of the handful that is not taking on board their Right to Build duty, you need to put pressure on them to meet their legal obligations. Write to them and to your local MP and ask others who are interested in building their own home to do the same.

It is hoped that the Right to Build review will address these issues, and ensure all local authorities in England meet their obligations to self and custom builders going forward.

Help to Build Launched

In April 2021, the government officially announced Help to Build, a forthcoming equity loan scheme for self builders.

Whilst separate from Right to Build, the scheme “could be transformational” in increasing access to the self build market, according to Mr Bacon. 

“This could open up a range of opportunities, it’s the beginning of the moving of the tectonic plates. Most people, if you give them a choice, want to have a say in how their house is built. In a smoothly flowing market, this will happen. Hopefully we’ll see that direction of travel speed up," he said in 2020.

The scheme was devised by NaCSBA in 2019, and will be supported by £150m over four years, helping self builders access lower deposit mortgages, freeing up capital to help them with build costs.

The Help to Build prospectus was published in late 2021 and the scheme is expected to open to applications in mid-2022. 

Although a garage conversion may feel like an easy way to extend your living space, there's more to it than simply decluttering and adding some internal walls and new flooring.

But, with many garages under utilised, and the cost of extensions rising, using the space you already have can certainly hold appeal, and be a quicker way of adding more rooms.

In this guide to garage conversions, we explain exactly what's involved so you can proceed with confidence when converting your garage into extra floorspace.

Garage conversion or extension?

Whether you have an integral or detached garage, unlike some larger extensions, garage conversion ideas can often be exempt from needing planning permission.

“Garage conversions can be remarkably versatile, and actually extremely affordable,” says Andy Simms, construction consultant at MyBuilder.com. “Depending on where the garage is located in comparison to the rest of your rooms, they can provide a multitude of great spaces, as well as providing extra storage.”

Garage conversions also have other benefits when compared to extensions. They are usually quicker and easier to carry out, and while this doesn’t mean garage conversion costs are always cheap, they are most certainly one of the more cost-effective ways to add some square meterage to your home.

Not using up valuable garden space can also be a benefit of a garage conversion. And, a lot of the work can take place without it affecting your existing home – even if you have to add an access point from the house into the garage.

Generally, the decision on garage conversion or extension will come down to a variety of reasons, including how much space you need, whether your garage is fit for purpose, or if demolishing it and adding a new side extension may be a better option.

However, before getting carried away, it’s important to check whether your garage is suitable for conversion.

“You’ll need to consider how the garage is constructed and what you want to use it for,” says Jude Tugman, founder of Architect Your Home, “as these criteria will impact on the cost of the conversion.” In addition, the changes you make may also affect whether your garage conversion will still fall under Permitted Development or will require full planning approval, a subject we’ll cover in more detail later on.

Are your foundations and roof suitable?

It’s common to think that as your garage has walls and a roof, it will be strong enough to work as a converted room. But this isn’t always the case.

“You shouldn’t assume that the existing foundations are adequate,” says Steven George, partner and studio lead at George & Co. “Trial holes should be carried out at the bringing of the project to inspect the existing foundations, as they will need to take the additional load.

“Otherwise you’ll have to underpin the existing foundations,” he explains, “which is labour intensive, and expensive. Before starting any garage conversion, you’ll need to establish how the existing garage is constructed, particularly if you are looking to add an infill wall in place of your garage door.”

An infill wall is usually one of the key parts of a garage conversion, offering the change to replace the garage doors with a wall that often comprises a window, or entry door.

The most common approach is to infill in a way that matches the home, either by building in matching bricks, or building in block and matching the exterior cladding. Adding a door or window can also help ease the load on the foundations, as well as bringing in natural light.

If the existing concrete slab is 200mm or over, this is generally adequate to extend straight up with new brickwork. If the existing slab is not sufficient however, there are typically two options. Either a 1m footing will have to be dug and filled with concrete, or a 140mm x 100mm concrete lintel can be added into the wall on both sides below ground level. The new infill wall can then be built on top of that.

Establishing the strength and types of foundations you have is even more important if you are considering extending over a garage to add a second storey, as this greatly increases the load exerting pressure on your foundations. You’ll also need to consider further building regulations for thermal and sound insulation if you decide to add an additional storey to your garage conversion.

Will you need to replace your garage roof?

Although you may assume you need to factor in budget for garage conversion roofing into your plan, it’s not always the case, say the experts.

“In the first instance, an inspection is wise to see how long a life your garage roof has left,” says Steven George. “If you discover that water is lying in pools on a flat roof, then this has the potential to cause problems in the new space beneath. The roof will then of course need repairing, and the underlying fabric of the structure checking for damage.

“Occasionally it is also necessary to replace the entire roof,” confirms Steven. “However, this is sometimes a welcome discovery – swapping a flat roof for a pitched design for example, can help tie the new space in with the rest of the house and leave you with a more aesthetically pleasing result.”

Understanding windows and door requirements

As part of the building regulation requirements, under under approved document Part B, you may be required to install a window or door that acts as a fire escape route when converting a garage.

Building control officer, Paul Hymers, explains.

“Attached garage conversions are usually accessed by a hallway door, providing a safe means of escape to outside, but if you can only enter this new room from another (outer) room, it defines it as an inner room.

“Because a fire in the outer room could prevent your escape, the inner room will need an alternative escape route," advises Paul. "This can be a door or window, and so the role is often performed by the window or door replacing the garage doors at the front. But, escape windows have minimum criteria," he notes. "If your inner room is a kitchen, en suite, cloakroom WC or bathroom then it doesn’t need an alternative exit.”

In half garage conversions, where only part of the garage is being used as habitable space, the wall separating the two should also be fire-rated to 30 minutes.

Any window installed is also subject to certain criteria, including its height from the floor, how it opens and the size of the openable section. As a rule, the width and height should be no less than 450mm, it must be a maximum of 1100mm from the floor level, have an openable area of 0.33m2 at the bottom of the window, and generally be side-hung.

However, do bear in mind that windows within garage conversions under Permitted Development are largely only allowed in the section replacing the garage door. Any new windows added to the side may require a planning application.

Insulation for your garage conversion

When it comes to the insulation requirements for your garage conversion, build expert, Mark Stevenson covers this in more detail in our guide to insulating a garage conversion.

However, it helps to understand that you will potentially need to insulate in three different places. Your walls, floor and roof may all need insulation in order to keep your new space warm. This will all impact your timeframe and budget, and could also impact the overall floor space you are left with if you need to add internal wall insulation, or alter the floor or ceiling heights.

Adding external wall insulation for example, is not usually recommended in garage conversions as it can cause issues externally with wall thicknesses.

"You will need to consider if you are able to afford to lose space when you start adding in insulation thicknesses to the walls and floor," confirms Steven George.

“Will the ceiling height need to be raised if you’re increasing the floor level? In general, you need around 2.2-2.4m of headroom once the floor has been raised to 15cm above the external ground level," he adds. This can also influence your purchasing when deciding which garage conversion flooring to install.

What ventilation guidelines will you need to follow?

"Home ventilation is vital for a garage conversion, otherwise you're just building a box that's going to sweat." says Mike Taylor from Taylor + Co Architects.

Installing an openable window is an easy way to purge ventilation. The opening should have an area of at least 1:20 of the floor area of the room it serves, whereas bathroom windows can be any openable size. Trickle vents should also be incorporated into the window framework to provide background ventilation.

If your garage already has air bricks, these should not be covered up, and be mindful of building regulations Part F regarding ventilation if your garage conversion will include a bathroom, kitchen or utility room, as you'll likely need an extractor unit to ensure moist air can be removed from the room.

Plumbing and electrical changes

Garages often house electricity meters and distribution boards, making it easy to install electrics there. However, new lights, sockets and electric radiators could put additional strain on older consumer units, which may mean you need to add new consumer unit costs to your budget.. If you're installing wiring for a detached garage, it can be run through an underground channel.

If the garage is to be another habitable room in your house, its own miniature circuit breaker is probably enough, although you should consider adding at least one new 20-amp circuit. Or, if necessary, an additional mains supply can be installed, but this will also require the installation of a separate consumer unit.

Whether or not you need plumbing will come down to how your new space will be used. While living rooms or games room ideas won't necessarily need a water supply, “if you are considering using your garage conversion for a utility room or garage conversion bedroom with ensuite, you’ll firstly need to look if there is any drainage locally to the garage,” says Steven George.

A drainage survey should be carried out to locate the main outflows for water (as well as the waste pipe if you're installing a WC). Consider how far the garage is from the mains and waste pipes of the main house as the further the distance, the more your costs will increase on both a labour and materials perspective.

Planning and building regulations when converting a garage

Unlike planning permission for garages that are new, which do require full planning permission, the majority of integral garage conversions tend to fall under Permitted Development, meaning planning permission is not required.

In fact, according to architectural specialists Resi, only 10% of garage conversions will require planning permission. However, it is still best to check with your local authority, as there are number of occasions when you still might fall under certain jurisdiction.

1. Stand-alone vs integral: If your garage if you are converting a stand-alone garage as opposed to an integral one, then you may have to apply for a change of use
2. Conservation areas and listed buildings: If you live in either, you will almost certainly need planning permission.
3. Planning conditions: You should also check for any planning conditions attached to the house or garage when it was originally constructed, as in some cases garages will be required to remain as spaces for parking. If there are conditions, an application will need to be submitted to remove them.
4. Garages on new-build estates: “If you are also considering converting a garage on a new build, you will also need to speak to your local authority,” says Steven George. “In general, planning departments remove permitted development rights on new build housing estates, meaning you would also need to apply for planning permission to convert a garage.”

Even if the conversion falls under Permitted Development, applying for a Lawful Development Certificate is a good idea, particularly if you aim to re-mortgage or sell the house in the future, as it will protect you under any changes that may occur post conversion.

Building regulations are required and here’s why

A garage conversion will most certainly need building regulations approval. As previously mentioned, you will need to adhere to the various approved documents relating to thermal performance, acoustics, fire safety and ventilation.

A building notice or full plans application will need to be submitted to building control as part of this process. Your local building control department will then register the conversion and carry out inspections throughout the project, then issue the final certificate on completion.

Design and build options for your garage conversion

The type of professionals you need to hire for a garage conversion will largely depend on the size and scope of your project, and how many changes you need to make to the exterior and interior.

If you need to make changes to the foundations or create new openings, you will almost certainly need the services of a structural engineer, but when it comes to other professionals you do have options.

Do I need an architect?

Whether you choose to hire an architect, or an architectural technologist or not, is very much a personal decision that should be based on the scale and complexity of the project, although there are of course benefits to calling in expert help and a fresh set of eyes.

“Architects will look at the house as a whole, helping to create a holistic design that will focus on the need for the work as well as ensuring it dovetails with your existing home,” says Steven George. “ An interior designer can also be a great option, as much of the work often revolves around internal detailing and storage ideas.”

A design professional will also have useful trade contacts and will have experience in dealing with Building Control which could help to make the process more seamless and avoid any delays.

DIY vs builder

Some people choose to come up with a design themselves and carry out a DIY garage conversion – a good option for those with limited funds and the spare time to get stuck in, although you will need to use certified electricians and plumbers where required.

But, if your DIY skills are more limited, you will need to find a builder to take on the work – especially if you are considering adding another storey to your garage conversion.

Another option is to use a garage conversion specialist. These companies usually have a wealth of experience and will be able to deal with any planning issues surrounding garage conversions, as well as building regulations.

But, as with all of the above options, be sure to view completed projects and speak to past clients before finalising your design and build team for your garage conversion.

Choosing your external finishes

The best converted garages usually look like part of the rest of your house, the exception being partial garage conversions. These are where the front of the garage remains unchanged (both internally and externally), while the rear section of the garage is incorporated into the house. This allows you to retain some garage storage space, while gaining a little extra living space.

Depending on the design of your existing home, you may be keen to ensure the materials used for the cladding and roof (where there is one), windows and doors match or tie-in with those on the main house to create a seamless finish.

Alternatively, you might wish to adopt a contemporary take on the design and highlight the garage as a new element of the house, choosing metal cladding or rendering to contrast with brick.

Opting for a new external finish can also help overcome any issues surrounding how the old opening for the garage door is concealed, as a badly bricked up opening is a design disaster.

“Blockwork and render are usually the easiest solution for this,” says Steven George, “as you can hide the original structure with the cement render. Brickwork should really be toothed into the existing, otherwise you will see the bricks butt joint, and this is a little bit unsightly.”

Timings for your garage conversion

The length of time your garage conversion will take comes down to the level of work involved.

According to Andy Simms, if you've established your foundations and roof don’t need any work, “a simple garage conversion can be turned around in a relatively quick time period – sometimes just two or three weeks, and once the garage is empty, the work tends to begin quite unobtrusively.”

Of course, each project is different, and if you do need work done to the roof or foundations you will need to add this onto the timescale. Likewise if your garage conversion forms part of your plans for renovating a house, you’ll need to factor the work into the overall schedule.

FAQs

When shouldn't you convert a garage?

While a garage conversion is, in the majority of cases, a brilliant way to add space and value to your home, there are certain instances where it might not be a viable option. Think about the following before you proceed:

• Will the work mean one or more existing rooms will frequently be rendered unusable by building work and will these rooms impact too much on your daily life?
• Remember that you will be held responsible for the legality of work done on your property. Time and energy will be required supervising work, being present to allow tradespeople access and making design and other decisions. Can you allocate time for the project?
• Might the cost of reinforcing foundations, replacing a garage roof, or applying for planning permission mean you are paying more than you expected, and facing a longer project time that makes the project unfeasible?

Will a garage conversion add value to your home?

Increasing your home’s usable floor area will likely boost its cash value, and a garage conversion can add as much as 20%, say Checkatrade, depending on what it’s converted into, with extra bedrooms with en-suites adding the most value.

But, it will also come down to your location and what the housing market in your area looks like. Ask yourself does your home really need extra room? Do you have a drive to park on, or is there copious amounts of on-road parking? What is the price ceiling in your area?

These factors will affect how attractive your home is to potential buyers and may affect the overall amount that converting a garage adds to the value of your home. Be sure to discuss your plans with a local estate agent to see if your plans will add value and if so how much so that you can ensure your budget doesn’t exceed any potential return on your investment.

Still not entirely sure what you could do with the space if you converted your garage? If your garage is on the smaller side, why not take the opportunity to indulge in a bespoke boot room for keeping muddy shoes and pets away from hallways? Or, if your garage is attached to your kitchen, could a back kitchen or pantry give you the extra space and storage you crave?

There is a lot that goes in to choosing the right architect for your project, and it will become an important relationship for the duration of the build. 

Seeing as a building project can be stressful, it makes sense that you would want to avoid anything that could add any drama or tension to the process.

Therefore once you've managed to find an architect, here are seven things you should avoid saying to your chosen designer to keep the project going smoothly.

1. 

When briefing your architect, you need to give lots of information about how you live, what’s important to you and how you want to use your new home. You will also understandably need to include information about any specific features or requirements you have.

But, if you have a prescribed idea for every single detail of your dream home, there is very little room for an architect to do what they do best and design a creative solution that meets your brief in often surprising and unusual ways.

2.

When researching, you’ll likely come across many impressive options and be tempted to go with the one who has completed the most wow-factor projects. And that is fine, if they have done projects similar to what you are aiming to achieve.

However, if they specialise in large scale contemporary self builds and you want a traditional-style extension, then they might not be the designer for you. If not, then you should research a bit more and find an architect with tried and tested experience in what you are looking for.

3.

Budget is an important parameter and you need to be clear about your budget when you’re briefing your architect. This will enable your architect to ensure they are coming up with feasible solutions.

If you aren’t strict about your budget then your designer may come up with something that is far out of reach, leading to potential tension and fall outs.

4.

It is all well and good having a wish list of features you want, but in addition to this, you need to give serious thought to living in your new home.

You might love the idea of lots of glazing, but you need to think about how it will feel to live in a house like this and to consider the implications this may have on privacy, solar gain and heating requirements.

Similarly, open plan layouts might seem really appealing in theory, but when you imagine living in it, you might decide that a broken plan layout would be better suited to your lifestyle.

5.

Yes, your architect will have a lot of knowledge and will be able to offer solutions that you may not have considered, but everyone involved must understand that this is still your house.

If you don’t like something your architect has suggested, then you need to be able to say so, and your architect should listen to you - they won’t want to leave you dissatisfied by designing a house that you don’t love.

When choosing your architect, it’s important to choose one that you feel you can talk to freely and honestly while maintaining a good rapport. This will not only help ensure that the end result is something you love, but will also make the whole process a lot more smooth sailing.

6. 

It is possible for companies to put architecture in their names without necessarily hiring any registered architects. Choosing to hire an architect who isn't registered with the publicly accessible Architects Registration Board (ARB) means that they don't need to comply with responsibilities including health and safety and the need to maintain Professional Indemnity Insurance.

If an 'architectural designer' offers their services, who isn't ARB registered, then there is no legal guarantee for them to deliver the service you require.  

7. 

Your architect will be able to help with the process of gaining planning permission, but they will not be able to help you with your plans if they breach planning rules. 

You may have a design you think is perfect for your build, but your architect will tell you if your council or building surveyor will object, and they likely won't appreciate being asked if they can find creative ways to break the rules. 

Finding a surveyor is a key task you'll need to undertake during the homebuying process. When buying a property, and in particular one in need of some modernisation and/or a period home, it is really important to get a survey carried out — but knowing how to find the right building surveyor can seem daunting. 

A building survey is not only crucial in understanding what you are getting yourself into by buying a particular property, highlighting any potentially tricky or expensive issues, but it can also help when it comes to getting the best price for the house. Being able to accurately calculate how much any defects are likely to cost to put right, with the help of a good building surveyor, can help when it comes to bargaining with the sellers. 

But how do you find a surveyor that offers everything you need? Our guide is here to give you the best ways to track down the right person for the job — explaining what you can expect to be charged and how to be sure that the building surveyor you choose has the right experience and qualifications.

What Does a Building Surveyor Do?

A survey involves a number of checks to assess the overall condition of a property, bringing any concerns to the fore. 

A building survey or RICS Home Survey – Level 3 is one of the most popular types of survey and was previously known as a Full Structural Survey. However, there are less detailed and intrusive surveys available for those buying newer homes.

The job of a building surveyor is to carry out an in depth investigation of the property, checking its condition in detail. Depending on the survey picked, they will thoroughly inspect all accessible areas, such as in the loft. A building surveyor will be on the lookout for issues such as damp and rot, hazardous materials and structural defects. 

Once they have completed the report they will, where necessary, also recommend specialists that will be able to carry out any subsequent investigations, such as a drainage survey, that might be required.

In some cases, a surveyor will go on to draw up a schedule of works to get a renovation project underway. 

1. Look For Qualifications

First things first — you want to be absolutely certain that the building surveyor you choose has the right qualifications for the job.

The easiest way to do this is to find a surveyor who is a qualified member of the Royal Institute of Chartered Surveyors (RICS). A RICS qualified surveyor has to have professional indemnity insurance. They will also have to stick to a strict code of conduct and, should you have any complaints or issues, you can go to RICS to help get them sorted. 

Online surveyor finding tools can be a good starting point. The Find a Surveyor tool on the RICS website lets you search using your postcode.

2. Aim to Stay Local 

It really does pay to find a surveyor who has plenty of experience with local properties — as opposed to opting for one in a different county just because someone recommended them to you, or surveyor from a national company who has not previously worked in your area.

A local building surveyor should have a good knowledge of the area, the history of the houses there and a sound understanding of how properties in your location were built, any typical issues that are thrown up in the locality and, of course, the best people in the area to help with any problems that will need rectifying. 

3. Prioritise Structural Movement

If you seriously suspect the house you are buying is suffering from structural movement (our house viewing checklist should aid here), it is wise to seek out the services of a structural engineer before investing in any other kind of survey. 

In this case, you want to track down a local chartered structural engineer — they should have the letters 'CEng' after their name and your best option will be to find one who is either a member of the Institution of Structural Engineers ((MIStructE) or the Institution of Civil Engineers (MICE). 

4. Get Recommendations

As is the case when finding any kind of professional, tradesperson or finding a builder to work on your house, trusted, personal recommendations are invaluable. 

Make sure that the recommendation comes from someone local with a similar type of property to you.

If you can't seem to get anyone to suggested a good surveyor then instead ask a handful of surveyors for client testimonials and see whether you can speak to their past clients.

5. Ask About Timescales

It is crucial, when choosing a building surveyor, that you check their availability and how long you are likely to have to wait for their services and, subsequently, the results of your survey.

If you are in a rush, a surveyor who is busy for the next six months will be no use. Likewise, it is all well and good finding one who can come out to you next week, but if the resulting report will then take weeks or months to materialise, you may want to look elsewhere. 

To give you a rough idea of how long a building survey takes, the survey itself will normally take a good couple of hours up to around eight hours. You can expect to receive the results in between five to eight days. Although some surveyors may caveat a longer turnaround (say 14 days).

"Make sure you appoint a surveyor early on in the buying process — so often home buyers leave this to the last-minute. Given that it will take at least a couple of weeks to appoint a surveyor, book in a survey and receive the written results, there's potential for this to hold up the purchase," says Homebuilding & Renovating Editor Claire Lloyd.  

"This is also particularly key given that the survey might throw up potential issues and you may need to re-negotiate the purchase price."

6. Be Clear on Building Survey Costs

Building survey prices really do vary and will largely depend on the value of the house you are buying, as well as your location, and the condition and the size of the property.

However, costs tend to start at around £600, rising up to £1,500 for large, high value properties. 

The important thing to do when finding a surveyor is to shop around — aim to get at least three quotes before you make your decision. It is important to note, however, that the cheapest option will not always be the best. Do bear in mind the value of experience and knowledge too. 

7. Find a Surveyor With The Right Experience

One of the first questions you want to ask any building surveyor before engaging their services is what kind of experience they have had with the type of property you are buying. 

A building surveyor could have all the right letters after their name and have been in the profession for years, but if they have never surveyed the type of property you are purchasing (perhaps a barn conversion or former industrial building, for example) then it might be best to look elsewhere. 

If you've ever dreamed of building a house, you'll likely be familiar with the term self build. Although it's not necessarily the physical act of building it brick by brick yourself (although for some it may well be), building your own home not only gives you the chance to tailor your home to suit your needs, but can also provide you with a sustainable, energy efficient and profitable home should you ever decide to sell.

And while the route to self build can take a number of different forms, if you have the time, energy and determination, the end results can be breathtaking.

So if you're considering self building, we've prepared this guide to help you navigate all the practical considerations you'll need to take into account before you start. From finding a plot through to picking your preferred build route, we've got expert advice to help you on every step of the way.

What is a self build home?

There can be some confusion over exactly what a self build home actually is. In short, a self build is a project whereby an individual commissions a house to be built on a piece of land that they own in order to live in it.

The would-be homeowner tends to have control over the build, and can work with an architect, architectural technologist or design-and-build team to create a home that fits their specific requirements.

While the majority of projects are made up of a main contractor and subcontractors, self-managed overall by the would-be homeowners, depending on your budget, and even your own skills, the exact path you take will vary.

What self build routes are available?

Worried you don’t know much about construction? Don’t let that put you off. You don’t need to know the ins-and-outs to be a successful self-builder.

Although self build DIY may be an option for some, less than 10% of homeowners undertaking a self build are physically involved in doing the actual building work. Perhaps this is partly down to the fact that if you do proceed down a DIY route, your home is still subject to Building Regulations and certain elements will be required to be installed or signed off by a competent person.

And, while around 40% of self builders do manage their own projects, the rest use builders or package companies offering custom build options to run it on their behalf.

That said, most self builders are far more involved in the creative process than those who choose a custom build, taking part in the design stages, choosing tradespeople and deciding on finishes without the limiting scope of a developer's involvement.

If you're particularly keen to progress your project quickly and don't want something particularly bespoke, you could also consider a self build package route whereby you adapt an existing scheme and design to suit your requirements. It's often a common route for timber frame properties, although is also used with other construction methods.

A professionally managed build may also call on a project manager to oversee the site and schedule. The benefits of this are not only the experience of someone who manages builds for a living who may be able to predict any potential pitfalls, taking the responsibility away from busy homeowners, but also providing a little distance between the self builders and the house during the construction process – helping to manage conflict on the site (and with neighbours).

Is self building right for you?

Although the thought of building your own home can seem like a dream come true, the reality is that it isn't for everyone. It's not as simple or straightforward as buying a house and may take a lot longer until you have the keys to your new home – especially if you're unable to find the right plot, or a property that can be demolished and re-built.

Juggling budgets, planning constraints and the thought of possibly living in temporary accommodation on site can all be off-putting. But, if it doesn't feel too daunting, the benefits can be wide-ranging.

Location, the finished look and a bespoke layout are all elements that can entice a self builder to take the plunge. Perhaps you like contemporary builds but aren’t keen on developer estates, want to live in a cutting-edge sustainable eco-house, or maybe it's the only way to live in the type of home you want as it would otherwise be financially out of reach.

Whatever the reasons behind your self build, you will need passion and a supply of energy, resilience and money. After all, if it was easy everyone would be doing it.

The reality is, when you find yourself on a dark dreary day in December, standing on site in a soggy mud pit, freezing cold, you’ll want to be able to remember the reason why you started in the first place.

Finding a plot

Finding a plot at the right price to build your house on is not always easy. But, the good news is that as well as being proactive in trying to find land yourself by exploring the local area, visiting auctions, and using word of mouth to let friends and family know you're looking for a plot, there are several different routes and schemes that may also help in your quest.

1. Specialist services

Specialist plotfinding services like plotfinder.net are incredibly useful when looking for land to build upon. Plotfinder, for example, which costs from just £5 a month, has more than 17,000 development opportunities listed on its site, from plots that have planning permission already, to land without planning as well as renovation projects. It caters for a range of budgets as well as offering a weekly newsletter with a roundup of the best plots coming onto the market.

2. Official schemes

Make sure you also register with your local authority under the Right to Build register, which requires local authorities in England to keep track of the demand for serviced plots in their area and release information when they are available.

Other schemes such as Help to Build and projects like Self Build Wales are also both worth looking into for would-be self builders, giving you access to sites and opportunities in your area.

Another consideration that may work in your favour is a section within the National Planning Policy Framework, says Rick Fabrizio, director of Tholos Architects. Get your final design right and you could find yourself building on an area that has been previously considered out of bounds.

"Some prospective self-builders invest months if not years in finding the right plot, and some very appealing plots happen to be in Green Belt or in a rural context where normally a new development would be discouraged.

"However the National Planning Policy Framework allows for a very limited set of exceptions including one very useful for Self-Builders," says Rick.

"Formerly identified over the years as Paragraphs 55, 79, and 80, and currently [as of Oct. 2024] Paragraph 84(e), this lesser-known clause allows for exceptions to decisions that should otherwise not allow single-house developments in rural areas, provided the design is of 'exceptional quality', being 'truly outstanding' and 'enhancing its immediate surroundings'."

Think you may have found some plots to view? Make sure you check the following to avoid encountering obstacles when it comes to finalising your plans:

• Does it have planning permission that has expired, or is about to expire?
• Are there any access issues?
• Do any covenants exist?
• Are the services already in place?
• Title deeds – make sure these deeds are ‘absolute’ rather than ‘possessory’ and negotiate on the plot price accordingly if not

Self build funding and costs

How much does it cost to build a house is usually the first question asked by potential self builders, but it's one that doesn't come with a fixed answer as every self-build house is different.

However, one way to measure a potential cost is to look at a breakdown per square metre. "Build costs range from £1,750-£3,500/m2 on average (exc.VAT)," advises Homebuilding & Renovating's Director of Content, Michael Holmes. "DIY self builders can reduce this by 40-50%."

There are some other key considerations which will affect at which end of the scale your build sits, including:

• Location: Not only do land prices vary across the country, but the cost of labour does also. Building in London, as just one example, will come with a premium in plot and labour
• Size: Largely, the bigger the house the more expensive, however, in some instances, economies of scale can work in your favour to reduce the cost per square metre
• Plan, shape and layout: The more complex your layout, the more expensive the build. A simple, square build will be the least expensive
• Number of storeys: While you'd assume that building more storeys would add significantly to your build cost, it can actually reduce your overall cost per square metre – additional storeys don't require the same expense on foundations despite all the additional space they create
• Specification: Basic, standard products are easier to source and fit. Anything bespoke or requiring specialist installation will add to your costs
• Involvement: The more people you employ on your build, the higher the costs. What parts of the project are you willing, and importantly, able to contribute to?
• Are there existing services on site? Getting services to your site (if necessary) can cost between £10,000-£15,000, depending on your situation and whether the connection needs to be made across private land (where you’ll need to secure a wayleave to grant access to dig) or public highways (which may involve road digs). "For a replacement dwelling with existing services available, expect to pay around £500," says Michael Holmes. Though gas and bringing electricity to site is not essential during the build, a water supply is needed early on.

Funding your self-build

Of course, your final costs will also depend on what you can actually afford to raise through funding. With money needed to pay for the plot professional services such as architectural designers’ fees, site surveys, such as measured surveys, and the costs of the build itself it's likely you'll need to look at a number of different ways to fund a self-build.

This may include savings, equity in your existing home, a self-build mortgage or potentially a combination of all three.

Surprisingly few high street banks provide formal facilities for self-build finance, so you’ll likely need to approach a specialist provider.

"Self-build mortgages transfer money in stages as you build," explains Emma Lunn, a journalist who specialises in personal finance and property. "You can typically borrow up to 75% of your project costs, or more if you already own the plot of land."

Self-build mortgages tend to follow one of two structures, an arrears-type mortgage and an advance-type mortgage. An arrears mortgage is more common, but will require you to front money for a stage of the build yourself, before paying you back at the end of that stage. Advance mortgages pay you ahead of each stage, but will generally offer less favourable rates.

Claiming back your VAT

One of the major benefits of self build that you do need to taking into account when calculating your costs, is that you can reclaim VAT on most of the building materials. VAT-registered builders and sub-contractors should also zero-rate their invoices (while, of course, if they’re not VAT-registered, they shouldn’t be adding it to bills in the first instance).

In general, you can reclaim for all materials that are fixed into the house, although interpretation of this can be quite complex. You can only make one claim (using the VAT 431NB form) and that must be made within three months of the project completion.

Obtain and keep hold of all VAT receipts to submit with your claim. Don’t underestimate the time you’ll save by keeping your VAT receipts safely in one place as you go along.

Calculating your potential profit

If you're also keen to know how much profit can a self builder make, once again it's one of those questions that can only be answered with all the facts to hand. The housing market is never 100% stable and some houses are going to be more attractive to potential buyer's than others. The question whether to move or extend is one that needs careful consideration, particularly when there are some unknowns in terms of tax changes, planning reform changes ad and more.

However, there are some averages that can help give you some idea.

"Building your own home has the potential to pay dividends," says Michael Holmes. "A well-considered homebuilding project could potentially net you a profit of 25% when (or if) you come to sell."

Personally, I was always taught the 30:30:30 rule when developing a property. Spend 30% on the land, 30% on the build and expect to make 30%, with 10% lost to your contingency budget.

And while rising costs for materials and contractors mean this ratio is unlikely to be the case anymore, it's a rough idea to bear in mind when starting to look at plots of land and your design ideas.

However, profit aside, the basic formula you do need to stick to is: build cost + plot cost + contingency < the value of your finished house. What you can then sell the property on for will be dependant on the market conditions at the time.

This is why for those that do have the option, building on a garden plot or any other kind of existing plot that you (or family) already own can be an attractive option for this reason – especially if you will eventually be looking for a sizeable return on your investment.

Don't forget the Community Infrastructure Levy rules if you do intend to sell

The Community Infrastructure Levy (CIL) imposes a fee on the creation of new homes, which is determined by the local authority and is based on the size of the house.

The good news is, subject to criteria, self builders are now exempt from paying CIL. However, the four-stage exemption process must be followed to the letter.

While there's no limit on the amount of time you have to live in a house before selling for the purpose of reclaiming VAT on your build, if you've obtained the Community Infrastructure Levy exemption, you'll need to live in the property for a minimum of three years. If you sell up and move on prior to this, you'll be required to pay CIL in full.

Which construction system will be best for your build?

How to choose a construction system that fits the bill and budget? While your choice of superstructure material will have little impact on how your finished self build looks, it is still worth considering the available construction systems, all of which are covered in more detail in their own guides:

• Masonry
• Timber frame
• Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs)
• Insulated Concrete Formwork (ICF)
• Oak frame
• Cross Laminated Timber (CLT)
• Natural building materials, using such materials as straw bales, hempcrete and cob

Even if you are the type of self builder who is less concerned with how the house looks ‘under the bonnet’, and are happy to leave the decision with your architect or structural engineer, one thing you do need to take note of is the differences in cost and time that each option will offer you.

While some construction methods may outwardly appear more expensive than others, they may reduce costs in other areas, such as time spent on site, or the overall build time, all of which will impact your final budget and determine your moving in date.

Do I need an architect for a self build?

While some self builders do design their own homes, you’ll more than likely need a designer on board to help you formulate plans for your dream home. This might be an architect, architectural technologist, an architectural designer or an in-house designer at a package company.

It can be tough to find an architect or designer you have the right rapport with, so expect to spend at least a couple of months searching for one. It's better to hold off starting your build than to start it with the wrong architect or designer.

Knowing what's ahead of you in the design process is also an essential part of any self build project and can help manage both your expectations and the end result.

Although don't feel you need all the answers before you even meet with an architect, says Rick Fabrizio.

"Don't worry if you don't have clear ideas about everything when you start your design journey as having some flexibility can create more interesting and unpredictable outcomes. But, it is very important to share with your architect the reasons that made you buy a specific plot as they could positively influence the design process," says Rick.

"It is also important to interview a number of architects until as a client you can establish there is mutual understanding and trust. Vetting the professional that will guide you through this whole journey is the single most important decision to ensure you get off to a good start," he adds.

"Having a list of requirements where must-have features, such as the number of bedrooms, special needs solutions, hobby rooms and any preferable features is also very useful," adds Rick, "but the journey will be more interesting when there is a creative dialogue between the client and the architect. It's a journey and many aspects and details will emerge as the design evolves and becomes more detailed."

Stages of the design process

It's also important to understand how long the design process can take in order to ensure your overall self build schedule includes sufficient time in advance of the project starting.

"The design process usually follows specific steps, set out in the RIBA Plan of Works," explains Rick. "The process will start with an in-depth client interview in order to collect all the necessary site information and start interpreting, blending and processing the data, using a more methodical or more creative "approach" in developing a design concept. This concept then gets refined in subsequent steps until all the components are working and identified in detail.

"During this process one also has to take into account any changes that may be necessary due to variations in budget, scope or requirements," he adds, " as well as the time required to receive a planning decision and the potential delays if you are not successful the first time.

"A design process without hiccups for a bespoke house can last five to eight months," says Rick, "depending on the complexity of the development."

Planning permission and building regulations

When you self build, you’ll have to apply to your local authority for planning permission. The cost of submitting a planning application varies across the UK, although the total cost of obtaining planning permission arguably comes from preparing the plans and documents (the design fees) in readiness for submission and any accompanying surveys (such as ecological surveys) that may be required, plus the building control costs.

You should find out when your local planning authority has approved your application after eight weeks – although more complex schemes can take longer.

All planning permission is granted with planning conditions attached. Failure to address the conditions will invalidate your consent, making any work done unlawful.

"Planning applications now must take into account Biodiversity Net Gain rules," adds Rick Fabrizio, "which require you to identify and measure habitats on a plot, even if the proposal is for a single house, in order to ensure any found are not only safeguarded, but enhanced.

"This may add to the red tape," he warns, "and it is worth talking to your Architect or checking with a specialised ecologist beforehand so you can make sure this is accounted for in your schedule."

Building regulations for self builds

All new homes, including self builds need to adhere to the Building Regulations, and as such, a building inspector will visit at key stages of the build to inspect the work and ensure it complies.

The build will usually need to be inspected at the following stages during a self build:

• Excavation for the foundations
• Pouring concrete for building foundations
• Building the oversite
• Building the damp-proof course
• Drainage
• A visit prior to completion
• A final visit on completion

Hiring your self-build team

One of the best ways to find a builder and/or subcontractors is through word of mouth – ask your designer, friends, family or neighbours who’ve undertaken projects, and anyone else you know locally who’s built their own home, for recommendations.

As the best builders and subcontractors will be booked up months in advance, it pays to start your search as early as possible, and much like finding a designer, choosing a builder requires plenty of research.

It’s best to meet with them to discuss your project and to ask them to quote (your designer can help you to prepare tender documents). It’s also a good idea to visit a project they’ve completed and to talk to previous clients.

However, it's important to note that although you can establish contact with and line up a builder, main contractor, package company and/or subcontractors during the design and planning processes, you won’t get a fully accurate quote for the work until your building regulations drawings have been finalised.

How long does it take to build a house?

Once you’re finally ready to start on site, you’ll need to know what happens and when, regardless of how physically involved you are in the process. Our guide to the typical self build schedule will give you an idea of what to prepare for and when.

The time your build takes will depend on the construction method you choose. Some modern methods of construction, particularly those that are made offsite, require less time than traditional block construction.

On average for a typical two-storey, three-bedroom house, you're looking at around 40 weeks, while some methods, such as structural insulated panels, can reduce this timescale by as much as eight weeks.

Where will you live while self building?

Very few self builders are in the position to remain in their existing homes while building a new one, so you will need to consider where you are going to live while you build your dream home.

• Staying with family/friends: the average self-build project takes around a year on site, so if you are planning on staying with friends or family, make sure that you are realistic about the timescale of the project
• Renting temporary accommodation: this is an option, but an expensive one (even more so if your project hits any unforeseen delays)
• Living on site: erecting a temporary home on site, or staying in a caravan or mobile home, offers an opportunity to keep an eye on the site during the build, but may take its toll over a longer build time

FAQs

Will I make more money on a self build project?

As previously mentioned, the average profit on a well-managed self build project is around 25%, meaning you'll get more house for your money if you build rather than buy. Although renovating a home can often add substantial value in the same way that house extensions can.

However, self-build mortgages are less widely available, meaning there may not be products offered to suit everyone's financial situation. Where self build is not viable for some people, the idea of custom build may suit. This route removes some of the obstacles faced by self builders, including finding land, securing planning permission and getting services to site.

This is also a more hands-off approach, but still offers the chance for an individual home that meets individual needs. Custom build sites are usually managed by developers who can give you more information on the financial requirements.

Do I need self build insurance?

As soon as contracts are exchanged on your plot, you will need to have self-build insurance –usually a specialist policy for self builders. A comprehensive self-build policy is advised and will cover any public liability, building works, employers’ liability and personal accident.

Self building is undoubtedly a great way to achieve the house of your dreams but it certainly isn't for everyone and, in some cases, the difficulty of finding a plot or obtaining a suitable mortgage can scupper plans before they have even been put down on paper.

It is important to remember that self building isn't the only way to getting a house tailored to your needs. Renovating a house or adding an extension to your existing home are both fantastic routes to a home that can meet all of your needs – and also often result in some impressive profits. But, if you're convinced self build is the right route for you, make sure you read these top self build tips and check out these self build resources before you embark on your amazing adventure.

Building contracts can take many forms, but it's a formal written contract that you'll need to set your project up for success. 

Once you find a builder you trust and want to work with, it's not a legal requirement for a written contract to be created before they can start to work on your project — after all, you'll have technically entered into a contract by instructing them to start work, even if you've only communicated verbally. 

However, if you've ever had problems with a builder, you'll know that really, a handshake is not enough. Formal, written building contracts might mean extra admin, but they serve both parties as a document to refer to if any disputes arise during the build, and ensure everyone knows what's expected during the project. 

From the payment terms and how long the build will take, through to key but often overlooked considerations such as health and safety and insurance, a good building contract will make sure all parties are singing from the same hymn sheet. 

Here, Homebuilding & Renovating's legal expert Chris Reeves outlines the importance of building contracts, how much they cost and what they should include. 

Do I Have to Have a Building Contract?

While there isn’t a legal requirement to have a written building contract in place, it’s an essential part of any complex construction project. Forging ahead without a formal written contract (remember a contract doesn’t have to be written to be binding) could land your build in hot water. They provide a coherent document for both parties to refer back to in regards to the project’s specifics, and make sure that key elements don’t fall between the cracks of clear communication. 

Who has insurance in case of a site fire? When is payment expected? What happens if the project overruns? A building contract provides clear responsibility should any disputes between client and contractor occur. 

The legal landscape has changed quite a bit in recent years, especially in consumer protection. There is now strict legislation requiring builders to set out information with their prices on all manner of things that are outside the scope of this article.

The upshot, however, is that there is more reason now for builders to have a written contract, some requiring a formal ‘cancellation period’ to be given, in the absence of which there can be dire consequences. Contracts that are geared towards a consumer project will have these protections in place.

A reluctance to sign a building contract is also a good sign that you may have a cowboy builder on your hands. 

What is a Standard Building Contract?

A standard building contract is a contract produced by the building industry that can be used as a template to engage a single contractor. There are many forms of standard building contracts available. Examples are published by JCT, RIBA and FMB, to name a few. 

How Much Does a Building Contract Cost?

The cost can be as little as £30. If you are embarking on a project where you would feel more comfortable with a more bespoke contract then a construction solicitor will be able to offer advice on what is suitable.

What Should a Building Contract Include? 

A building contract should include information about the scope of the work, a defined start and finish date and a price for the work scheduled, however, this should be as detailed as possible to cover a number of scenarios. 

Building projects are complex and have a habit of throwing up all sorts of issues to grapple with. The more detail we have on potential issues then the clearer the parties are with where they stand.

This includes:

A decent contract will record the price you are paying for the work. It is usually a fixed price for a defined amount of work, but not always. What’s more, some contracts operate on a ‘cost plus’ arrangement under which the builder is reimbursed their costs, plus their charge for managing the work. It depends on what you agree, but the contract will record it.

Payment Schedule

The contract will also set out the rules on when and how to pay your builder. This may be in period or stage payments, typically monthly in arrears. So the builder may do a month’s work, put in a bill and the contract provides for payment in 14 days. This might not always suit the type of project you are undertaking. 

It might not reflect what the builder wants, but the contract can be amended to record what the parties agree.

Schedule of Works

It is essential to identify a detailed scope of work, often referred to as a ‘specification’ before the work starts and not as you go. Starting work without this in place is high risk and quite frankly asking for an argument. 

The contract needs to be clear on what the builder has included in the price and this can often flush out how good the design and specification are. A good set of plans and a robust specification describing the work is essential and will be referred to as ‘contract documents’ in the contract itself.

We know that not all items are designed at the outset, in which case the price is likely to include ‘provisional’ or ‘prime cost’ sums. The kitchen or bathroom might be selected at a later stage, for instance, in which case a fixed allowance will be set out in the price. The final cost will then be accounted for once the kitchen or bathroom has been chosen. The contract is in place to explain this.

Valuation of Extra Work

A good contract will also set the rules on the valuation of extra work. Most standard forms of contract require extra work to be valued on a fair and reasonable basis and it is possible to be more sophisticated about how that is arrived at by reference to the existing price breakdown.

Delays

A well-written contract will also provide the customer with compensation from the builder once the ‘date for completion’ has passed, until the date the project is ready to hand over. This will reflect a good estimate of what the likely loss is to you for items such as extended rent and storage.

Contracts usually refer to compensation as ‘liquidated damages’, where the compensation given is an agreed amount, to be paid weekly or monthly, and recorded in the contract.

On the other side of the coin is justification for finishing a project after the intended completion date. This often occurs for good reason: for example, changes made by the customer that delay progress. 

A good contract will identify the reasons a builder will be allowed to rely on for entitlement for more time to get across the finishing line. These are often referred to as ‘relevant events’. If the builder can prove the change caused delay (not all changes do of course) then there will be an entitlement to put the completion date back by a number of days to reflect the reasonable period of delay caused by the change.

Some ‘events’ might give the builder entitlement to time-related compensation too, such as the additional cost of scaffolding if the project is delayed by changes the customer makes to the roof. Issues that cause delay to the builder that are within the control of the customer will usually be treated by the contract in a different way to delay caused by factors that are not really in the control of either party, like exceptionally adverse weather conditions. 

If the latter is included in the list of relevant events then this is usually a risk shared by the parties, so will give the builder more time, but not money related to the delay.

The contract should require the builder to promptly notify the customer once it is known that a delay is likely to occur. A contract can be drafted to provide that if reasonable notice is not given then the builder will lose any entitlement to more time or more money — or both.

Can a Builder Raise Their Price After Signing a Contract?

Once again, a well written contract will outline when price increases are applicable. Largely, unless the scope of the work changes, the price of the job should remain fixed. 

If the foundations need to be deeper due to unforeseen ground conditions then the contract can deal with who carries the risk for this — the contract might state that this falls to the builder (in which case they will have no doubt your builder's quote will have been priced accordingly) or the self builder. 

Either way, this is an example of why you need a contract in writing — to provide certainty and to set out how any consequences are dealt with.

With material price increases and labour shortages causing issues, especially for small builders where these increases will be felt more acutely, you may find clauses in your contract that quoted material costs will increase if the cost of the materials inflates past a certain level. 

If you push for your builder to provide a fixed price without this flexibility, the likelihood is that they're quote will be higher, building in a contingency fund within the fixed price. 

Dispute Resolution in Building Contracts

A good contract will incorporate any preferred dispute resolution procedures and can go so far as to name a preferred professional body or individual to turn to should a dispute need to be resolved.

Many of the standard forms will include alternative forms of dispute resolution such as mediation and adjudication. It is worth looking into these further to make sure you know what you are potentially signing. 

Adjudication is a speedy process that can catch the customer out. Following a notice that the dispute will be resolved by adjudication, an adjudicator is appointed who is required to reach what is likely to be a binding decision in no more than 28 days.

Dispute resolution clauses need to be carefully thought through, and the parties may name an individual they feel would be well suited to resolve any issues in the contract.

Despite the best made plans, builders' quotes can throw a spanner in the works of any self build, extension or renovation project. 

After you've worked hard to produce designs, drawings and a carefully calculated cost plan for a project, you'll of course be eager to find a builder to carry out your build. So, what do you do when you put the work out to tender and find that the quotes you receive back are much more than you expected?

It's natural to be disappointed or upset, and it can be a real stumbling block in your project. However, once you get to know some of the common reasons builders' quotes come in much higher than anticipated, especially when they've been carefully considered with expert help, you can look to address them and move forward with your plans. 

Here, Bob Branscombe, one of the UK's leading chartered surveyors, offers his insight into why your quotes have come in so high, and the potential work-arounds you need to consider. 

1. The Tender Information is Flaky or Ambiguous

When you go out to tender, chances are that you are intimately familiar with what you expect from your finished job. You might need to pick a colour or two, but generally you will understand exactly what you want.

It stands to reason then that your builder will also need to know this. However, if the information you provide (the ‘inputs’) is flaky, ambiguous or contradictory, then your builder is left with three choices when pricing the work:

• Price the cheapest option and look for extras and changes later
• Raise numerous queries and questions throughout the tender process
• Price based on their assumptions and allowances to make sure they have an easy run of the works.

The latter, I would suggest, is as prevalent as the other two approaches combined: the builder looks at the work, makes allowances which may be in excess of requirements or over-specced, and the price is correspondingly higher.

In times when building work is in abundant supply, builders want jobs which they anticipate will run smoothly, not those that will be fraught with problems. Better then for the builders' quote to price the work high and minimise trouble along the line; that is a builder’s general approach in times of booming workloads.

2. You've Included Unnecessary or Over-complex Information

This is a tricky one. I preach time and time again that the inputs affect the contract, so it could be inferred that the more information the better. In the main, this is not a bad thing, but I would suggest that appropriate information is the overarching requirement.

Repetitive or overly complicated sets of documents can often cause tendering builders to assume a level of complexity that is not necessarily there. The prices tend to creep up as a consequence; the builder does not wish to have missed something or be caught out.

When it comes to a self build project, providing engineering, landscaping, geotechnical and construction drawings is a good plan generally, if you have them. However, if all you want is the superstructure quote from the builder to get you to shell stage, sending them the internal fit-out details runs the risk of over considering the works and pricing potentially more work than expected.

The secret is to go out to tender with the correct, coordinated and relevant information to fully understand and price the works required — no more, no less.

3. You've Included Inadequate Information

This is the counterpoint to point two. Remember that you are asking your builder to price and build the works as per your requirements. If the drawings in your tender documents only show four walls and a roof, with no constructional information, you run the risk of them over-specifying or assuming details that may or may not be there.

If the builder is conscientious, and you are expecting a fixed-price ‘turnkey’ quotation, then they will have to make a great number of assumptions when pricing the work. The less information there is on the drawings and specification, the more they have to guess what you really want. While some items will be forgotten, it is more likely that they will overprice the work to make sure they have covered everything.

In some cases, the work may end up in dispute. Where the information is inadequate, it is very challenging to forensically dissect the works to understand what was expected and what was included in the tenders and contracts.

In buoyant times, no builder wants the headache and hassle of disputes, so they tend to overprice.

4. You've Left Room for Assumption

Your tendering process should, above all, seek to eliminate any scope for assumption. As soon as you say the words ‘I thought that’, the opposing party in the building contract can counter with ‘well, I thought differently’ — neither party is wrong, both are simply victims of reliance on assumption.

Assumption only breeds confusion and/or misinterpretation, and in most cases, when pricing the work, the builder will by nature assume the worst-case scenario if they cannot understand from the documents what is required. The result? More contingency money is built into their price — and you receive a price which is higher than it needs to be.

5. Your Designer has Taken Their eye off the Budget

Your design team are rightly concerned with coming up with a design which meets your dreams and expectations, fits within the plot and planning permission regime, and is buildable. Often (in fact more often than not, in my experience) they take their eye off the budget.

When you commission a home, you tend to focus on the maximum budget, but then all parties might forget this as the excitement and challenges of the design process commence. Every decision or change to the design affects budget in some way, and the design team should advise you on this.

When you find an architect or designer, make sure that budget considerations are part of the scope of service. They should advise you from the outset whether your plans are realistically achievable within your available funds and keep a watching brief on this prior to receipt of tenders.

If they aren’t good at working to a budget the first indication of challenges is when the tenders are opened and the prices are too high. At this point, despite the potential of value engineering, it is often impossible to revisit and fundamentally change the design without wasting time and effort already expended (and paid for).

Keep an eye on budget every single time you think about your project. Tracking the costs as the design evolves is the best way to ensure you fully understand the scope and design of the building.

6. Your Builder is Super Busy 

Good builders are busy builders and will consider their commitments and work over the next few months, and their pricing levels will creep up accordingly. Beware if a builder can start work immediately — you may have a cowboy builder on your hands. 

If builders have to find a way of fitting more work in, they will need to find more resources, stretch themselves in terms of management and cash flow, and as such, they will price to try to cover this. Market forces dictate that if a builder does not need the work, why should they offer a cut-price bargain to you?

It is also worth considering the builder’s approach and view of your project. If they have several schemes to choose from when pricing, they will view them not just in terms of potential earnings and turnover, but also in terms of the likely smoothness and ease of execution.

A new build on a clear site, with ample on-street parking, easy access for cranes and heavy equipment and a payment regime clearly set out and defined will be far more attractive than a remodelling job in an inner city area with parking permits and road closure challenges.

Even assuming identical costs, the more challenging project will be less attractive and the builder will therefore price it higher to accommodate the idiosyncrasies attached to the job. Consider if you can ease these pressures and make your scheme attractive to the supply chain.

Equally, a restrictive and overly ‘client-focussed’ regime of management and administration can put off builders. I am not advocating relaxing correct contract administration processes, but in my view, in a busy market, the builder will price ‘the buggeration factor’ into a job.

7. Your Budget Was Too Low

The main reason that the price is higher than expected when you receive the tenders could be simply that your budget was too low. The trick here is to try to understand why.

The science behind the price is the key to successful pricing and budgeting — the factors listed in this article are all influences over and above the practical elements, such as the number of bricks, hours worked, cost of windows, etc. You and your design team can cover these off reasonably accurately, but the aspects that get forgotten or ignored are the factors I have briefly touched on above: those intangibles that make our job more expensive than others, or more expensive than we had expected.

Your budget is a ‘live’ and evolving aspect of the scheme. When you start out, the first bit of science you can bring to the scheme is the gross amount of money you can get hold of. This is the first ‘control factor’ and should be sacrosanct. If the design team then ignores this, you don’t track it, the design changes and evolves, and the level of fit-out gets higher, then obviously the budget is now inadequate.

However, because we set the budget in stone at the outset, we tend to assume that the builder has overpriced the job, not that our budget is perhaps no longer contemporary to the project. The lesson here is to keep ownership of the budget, have it at the top of the agenda when every design and construction detail is discussed or tweaked, and get the design team to buy in to this number.

As a footnote, consider the time factor: you probably set your budget prior to even getting planning permission, several months will have passed, and inflation becomes a real presence in the pricing levels your builder is experiencing.

Building regulations apply whether you are self building, renovating or extending. In fact, the majority of construction work – even fairly minor alterations – will require building regulations compliance of some kind.

Of course, if you're building a new home entirely from scratch, you'll be required to get to grips with a lot more of these regulations than those looking at building regulations for extensions or if you're just undertaking some light remodelling to your home.

There have been some important changes to several documents concerning those building or altering their homes – changes to Part L and Part O were particularly notable and within this guide, we'll take a quick look at what these new rules could mean for you.

What are building regulations?

Building regs are a set of standards designed to ensure a property is safe and comfortable to live in, and, increasingly, energy efficient and mitigating its contribution to carbon emissions.

It is important to realise that whilst the building regulations are law and compliance is mandatory, how to achieve this is not set in stone – the Approved Documents, which underpin the building regulations are intended to provide guidance about how to satisfy the building regulations in common building situations, but they do not cover all scenarios.

Compliance may need to be proven in other ways, such as providing structural calculations by a qualified structural engineer to convince the Registered Building Control Approver, that what’s been built is satisfactory. For most projects, following the guidance set out by the Approved Documents is sufficient, however, they tend to evolve as housing policy does, and in June 2022, there were some major updates that you should be aware of.

These changes affected Part L and Part F. Two new Approved Documents were also introduced: Part O and Part S.

Updates to Approved Documents Part L (Conservation of Fuel and Power) and Part F (Ventilation) strengthen energy efficiency standards, explains expert Mark Stevenson. The update requires higher fabric performance, improved U-values, and reduced carbon emissions (31% lower than previous standards). A new requirement is to provide photographic evidence of insulation and airtightness details to prove compliance with design requirements..

"Part O is the new regulation covering overheating (I guess this should be fairly easy to remember)," adds energy expert David Hilton, "which is a long overdue update. It not only looks at mitigating solar gain (heating due to direct sunlight) but also other causes of overheating due to uninsulated heating pipes, cylinders or lack of heating system controls."

Part S, however, focusses on electric vehicle charging points. "As petrol and diesel vehicles get phased out we are going to see more and more electric vehicles on our streets, so having electric car charge points properly planned and installed is now a ‘must-have’ rather than a ‘nice-to-have’ addition to the services in the home," says David.

Here's what you need to know about building regulations as a self builder, renovator or home extender.

The Building Safety Act 2022

The Building Safety Act 2022 introduces stricter building safety regulations, even for low-rise residential projects like self-builds. While its primary focus is on high-rise buildings, elements such as duty holder responsibilities, competence requirements, and record-keeping apply to all projects.

For self-builders, the Act reinforces the need to manage risks from design to completion. Compliance with Building Regulations is crucial, particularly for fire safety, structure, and accessibility.

The Act strengthens enforcement powers, meaning local authorities can issue stop notices for non-compliance. Record keeping is a key part of the Act which introduced the principle of the Golden Thread – a digital record of a building’s design, construction, and safety information, ensuring accountability throughout a building’s life.

For self-builds, this means maintaining accurate plans, specifications, and material details to prove compliance with the building regulations and support future maintenance. Under the Act, duty holders must be appointed which align with those required by the CDM Regulations.

For self build projects, where the client is a Domestic Client, the main duty holders are the Principal Designer and Principal Contractor. The Principal Designer oversees the design phase, ensuring the building design complies with the building regulations.

The Principal Contractor is also responsible for ensuring work is carried out in compliance with the design and regulations and must keep accurate records as part of the golden thread of information. Self-builders taking on these roles must be competent or appoint professionals who are. Failing to meet these duties can lead to fines or enforcement action.

Getting building regulations approval

In short, if you intend to carry out any new structural work or alterations to your home, you will require building regulations approval. There is a big difference between planning permission and building regulations.

Planning approval may also be required, depending upon the alterations being undertaken or if the building is listed or located in a designation that has a restricted status such as a conservation area.

Additionally, work involving the following areas also requires approval, although in some of these cases, competent persons can self-certify their works for compliance:

• Drainage
• Heat-producing appliances
• Cavity wall insulation
• New electrics
• Replacement windows

All new homes need to adhere to building regulations too, and for this reason a building control inspector, which, after the introduction of the Building Safety Act, is now known as the Registered Building Control Approver (RBCA), will visit at key stages of the build to inspect the work and ensure it complies.

It is worth noting that there is a difference between using private building control vs Local Authority Building Control and pros and cons to choosing each route.

These stages include:

• Excavation for the building foundations
• Preparation of the ground floor oversite
• Building the DPC’s and membranes
• Laying and testing of drainage
• Structural frame check
• Roof structure
• First fix installation
• Commissioning of services and fire safety features
• At completion of the building

A completion certificate will then be issued following the final inspection and sign off by the duty holders.

The building regulations

Once you’ve secured your planning approval, the focus needs to shift to showing that your design ticks all the right technical boxes.

The main exemptions for building regulations are peripheral things such as small porches, conservatories or detached garages (up to 30m2 floor area).

The Approved Documents of the Building Regulations comprise of a series of detailed guidance manuals (ranging from Approved Document A to T) covering everything from structure and fire safety through to security and electronic communications.

The Regulations are very detailed, and can be read in full on the Communities and Local Government website.

In brief, you will need to appoint a building inspector or registered building control approver, who will ensure that your project meets building regulations and comply with these areas:

• Part A – Structure
• Part B – Fire Safety
• Part C – Contamination and damp
• Part D – Toxicity
• Part E – Sound
• Part F – Ventilation
• Part G – Hygiene
• Part H – Drainage
• Part J – Fuel
• Part K – On-site Safety
• Part L – Conservation of Fuel and Power
• Part M – Access
• Part N – Glazing
• Part O – Overheating
• Part P – Electrics
• Part S – Infrastructure for Charging Electric Vehicles

New for 2024 is Part T – Toilets. Whilst this applies from the 1 October 2024, don’t worry as its not applicable to domestic dwellings and is concerned with toilet facilities in public buildings.

Building regulations for extensions

If you are building an extension then you will most likely need building regulations approval. Most extensions will need to meet a minimum set of technical standards.

The regulations you'll need to consider are likely to be:

• Energy performance (ensuring your build is insulated enough and has good airtightness so heat doesn’t just leak out)
• Structural integrity as most extensions require foundations
• Protection against falls and unsafe walls  
• Electric and gas safety as most extensions require new systems
• Fire protection which means ensuring there is safe passage from your home to a safe external area

Building regulations application fees

Most local authorities offer fee calculators on their websites. Their fees will depend on several factors including the type of work involved, size of the project and number of visits required. Private companies will negotiate their fees directly with you.

In England, Wales and Northern Ireland, once an application is lodged, work can commence on site within 48 hours.

Remember, on top of application fees, you will need to budget for plans and structural calculations, which can come in between £1,200-£4,000 plus, depending on the scale of your project.

Types of building regulation applications

Before any work can begin, you need to decide whether to make a Building Notice or full plans application.

With a Building Notice, it is possible to carry out the work without prior approval while a Full Plans application is where you submit plans and documents so they can be approved prior to work starting.

1. Full plans applications for building regulations

For more involved construction projects such as an extension or building a house, a Full Plans application is made to building control.

If you choose a Full Plans application, you will know from the start that the working drawings have been checked and approved by the building inspector and that the plans comply with the Building Regulations, subject to addressing any questions or requests for evidence.

Importantly, this means that any issues regarding non-compliance with the regulations can be thrashed out before building work actually starts.

The full plans application comprises of:

• A full description of the proposed works 
• A set of technical drawings
• Structural engineer’s calculations 
• A location or 'block' plan
• Thermal assessments and calculations

2. Building notice application for building regulations

With this method you’re basically promising in advance that you’ll comply with building regulations on site.

This might be feasible for some small domestic alterations or a very simple home extension but it’s not appropriate for larger or more complex projects.

If your site inspections uncover findings that contravenes the regulations while it’s being built, such as the wrong type of insulation or type of glazing, work has to be stopped or re-constructed, which could prove disruptive, as well as costly.

Remember you still need to complete a form giving details of the building work together with a site plan (1:1250 or 1:12500 scale) showing the boundaries of site and drainage details.

You may also be asked to provide marked up sketch drawings (typically copies of those used for planning) together with structural engineer’s calculations and energy performance details.

Building regulation drawing costs

For building regs drawings, expect to pay from around £1,000 for a single-storey extension, and around £1,500 for a two-storey extension, excluding additional charges for structural calculations, building control application fees and any party wall agreements.

For the average new house you could expect to pay around £4,000 to £6000, depending on the architectural service, and less if planning drawings have first been commissioned as there’s a certain amount of overlap. Large architectural practices can charge £75 or more per hour for this sort of work, and producing detailed technical drawings with a specification for a more complex bespoke new house could set you back as much as £10,000.

LABC fees are published on local authority websites and typically cost around £1,000 for a new house but less than half that for an average extension or loft conversion.

How long building regulations take

This depends on how busy your designer is. A straightforward job shouldn’t take much more than one or two weeks, unless they’re really busy.

If the engineer’s calculations are holding things up, it’s normally possible to save time by submitting them after your main application.

For building control to process a full plans application the stipulated period of five weeks should be sufficient assuming there are no major issues. Remember, you don’t have to wait for ‘plans approval’ before starting work on site, although this is a risky approach that some self builders will not want to take.

Building regulations approval

You can choose to use:

• A local authority inspector from your local council and run through Local Authority Building Control (LABC)
• A registered building control approver from a government-approved private building inspection company. Around 20% of all approvals are now handled privately, with the only recourse to the local authority being the submission of the initial notice informing them that they will be undertaking the building control inspections.

This is the case for those that self build, as well as all manner of projects such as renovating a house, extensions and loft conversions.

Since 6 April 2024, all private sector businesses that want to do building control work in England and Wales under the Building Act 1984 (as amended) must be registered with the Building Safety Regulator (BSR).

A Registered Building Control Approver and a Local Authority Building Inspector will carry out the same duties. They will check plans for compliance when a full plans application is made, and carry out site inspections when requested to check work on site at various stages.

However, under the Building Safety Act only the Building Safety Regulator or your local authority has powers of enforcement. A Registered Building Control Approver must hand the project over to the local authority if there are problems with the project that cannot be resolved informally.

There's very little difference in cost whether using a Registered Building Control Approver or working directly with the local authority.

Your builder and building regs

While all good builders will know how to ensure their work meets the building regulations, the process of signing off the work has changed under the new Building Safety Act.

Whilst Registered Building Control Approvers still undertake compliance focused inspections, the builder as the Principal Contractor will have to keep accurate records of compliance and is expected to sign off at the end of the build to confirm that the project is compliant with regulations.

Getting a completion certificate

When the building is completed to the satisfaction of the inspector, a completion certificate will be issued.

This is a vital document that must be retained alongside the written planning permission for use if you ever want to sell. It is also required in order to release final funds from lenders, obtain the warranty certification and in order to reclaim VAT (if applicable).

The completion certificate will not be available until all your certificates have been passed to the building control officer and a final site inspection has passed. The relevant certificates vary from one project to another but usually include:

• Electrical safety
• SAP rating
• Air pressure test
• Boiler installation and hot water services
• Water efficiency calculations
• Security
• Fuel storage
• Remediation of contaminated land
• Chimneys and open flued appliances
• MCS certification for renewable technologies

Under the Building Safety Act 2022, both the Principal Designer (PD) and Principal Contractor (PC) have a legal duty to sign off on compliance before a project can be handed over and deemed complete.

This requirement ensures that buildings meet Building Regulations and that safety risks have been properly managed throughout design and construction.

FAQs

Do I need a structural engineer? 

The plans required for building control are considerably more detailed than those submitted for planning.

Whether you choose to submit a Full Plans application or not, building control normally require calculations from a qualified structural engineer who you can employ at the technical design stage.

What’s more if you plan to make any structural alterations to your existing house, such as knocking down internal walls and openings, these may also need calculations.

Depending on the size and complexity of the project, and whether site visits are needed, engineer’s fees typically range from around £400 for run-of-the-mill extensions to £3,000 plus for more complex houses.

Can I sell my house without building regs?

Any diligent solicitor will ensure that evidence of building regulations compliance such as a completion certificate is provided during a house purchase.

If you don't have a record of this for some reason, perhaps from work carried out by a previous owner, there are a few ways this can be tackled.

A regularisation certificate involves a retrospective application in which an inspector checks the build or alteration, but against the regulations that were in place at the time the work took place.

Indemnity insurance is also an option if the work has not been signed off, or paperwork is missing. This safeguards the property from legal action such as a building regulations enforcement from the local authority for the new owner.

However, this course of action does not offer the peace of mind that the work is safe, and with the property's structure and fire safety at risk, it's worth further exploration.

Obtaining planning permission is very different to making sure your project complies with building regulations and you can potentially find yourself in a tricky spot if you have one without the other. It is therefore worthwhile speaking to a planning expert separately as well as looking at permitted development and planning reforms, if you haven't done so already.

If you've never taken on a build project before, you may not know how to pay a builder. Even if you have, any process that involves money has the potential to become contentious, so making sure you know the best practice for paying builders is important for your peace of mind. 

The key to a harmonious relationship with your team is to find a builder who communicates well and is professional in their approach to the project's finances. Paying promptly when required and understanding that certain issues can arise during a build is part of your role, but it's also important to understand your rights and when payments shouldn't be made. 

Here, serial self builder David Snell offers his insights on how to pay a builder. 

1. Draw up a Formal Contract

When considering how to pay a builder, consider the implication that most homebuilding projects are undertaken without a written contract. Most rely on a simple offer and acceptance: the builder writes to the client offering to do the work at a given price, who in turn writes back, accepting the quotation. In the case of most builder quotes, this works out just fine. In some cases, however, either or both parties rue the day they didn’t have a contract.

A contract doesn’t have to be a huge legal document. Some are just five pages long with simple questions. None are worth much until things start to go wrong, then they become worth their weight in gold.

The essential parts deal with when and how the money is to be paid and the critical section deals with how any disputes will be sorted out. All else is largely negotiable and may vary due to site conditions.

(MORE: Find a builder in your area)

2. Pay Subcontractors on Time, After Work Has Been Inspected

There are two types of subcontract­or: ‘labour only’, such as bricklayers and carpenters, and ‘supply-and-fix’, including plumbers and electricians.

Labour only subcontractors often require payment in cash at the end of each week. If it’s not there, they may well de-camp to another job.

If possible, leave an incentive for them to finish. For example, you could divide a 10-week job’s wages by 12, saving a triple payment for the end, when you’re satisfied everything’s been done correctly.

The supply-and-fix trades may want paying in two stages:

• on completion of the first fix or carcassing (when they’ve put in all the background wire and pipe runs)
• on completion of the job.

The written contract with the builders should detail the stages of the build when they should be paid and the amounts. Make sure that each stage has been reached before paying, and that the work has been passed by the building and warranty inspectors.

3. Avoid Paying Builders up Front

It's not common for reputable builders to ask for payment up front, and demands for large sums before the work has commenced is a sign you have a cowboy builder on your hands. 

Most builders’ merchants require their accounts to be settled at the end of the month following the month of invoice, so any requests for payment prior to the goods’ delivery must be questioned.

There may be times when, for example, a plumber will ask for money upfront to pay for a special item such as a boiler. This is fair — but it’s better to eliminate any risk by purchasing it yourself.

If goods are made bespoke to order, such as a timber frame, then it’s reasonable for the manufacturer to ask for a large payment upfront. Here the safest option is to pay the money into a client’s or escrow account, where it can’t be with­drawn until the goods are delivered.

4. Paying Builders in Cash

It's perfectly legal to pay a builder in cash if it benefits either party. This may be because some banks have administrative fees that they're looking to circumvent, for example.  

It's the builder's sole responsibility to declare this income to HMRC — if they don't that may be considered tax evasion, which is a criminal offense. 

However, you should be wary that paying in cash doesn't mean there's no paper trail for the work being done. It's worthwhile still instating a contract, and requesting work or VAT receipts to keep for your own records to ensure you have the required documents should any disputes arise. 

5. Keep it Professional

It’s a sad fact that the contractor you know often comes in at a higher price than all of the rest. Why is that? It’s because they feel that you’re a certainty — and they don’t feel the need to minimise their prices. They will even convince themselves that they’re doing you a favour.

You may well end up lifelong friends with the tradespeople who work on your site (or lifelong enemies if things go badly or you terminate a contract). But first-name terms should evolve as the job progresses. When they’re just people quoting for the job, using first names may lead them to believe that they’ve got you on a hook.

Keep it fairly businesslike in the early and pre-engagement stages.

On the other hand, self-employed trades can pick and choose where and who they work for — so you’ve got to be likeable. You want tradespeople who are going to be helpful. But if you are too needy, then don’t be surprised if that’s reflected in the price.

6. Be Prepared for Every Eventuality

You can’t remove every uncertainty from a building project. However carefully you plan, things will go wrong but you can minimise the damage:

• A full site survey giving you accurate levels will determine the amount of underbuilding needed
• A soil investigation should determine the precise nature and type of foundation you must use — but even here, it’s not foolproof.

Make sure you have clear and precise plans together with a full specification. Loosely drawn plans lead to ambiguities in pricing and nasty surprises on site. Making changes to plans without providing everyone on site with the latest version, and removing old plans, will lead to mistakes.

The lack of a proper specification can result in:

• material overruns
• shortages
• the wrong choices being forced on you if you’re going to maintain that all-important continuity on site.

Iron out most of the problems by thinking ahead. Make sure that you’re fully aware of the sequences of events through a building project and that you know what happens when ­— and can plan for the event.

7. Accept Things Will Take Longer Than Quoted

“It should take about three weeks,” can be roughly translated into, “It’ll take just over a month.” That may or may not be the contractor’s fault. Bad, and especially cold weather, can put a stop to all activities on site.

Many builders and subcontractors underestimate the time the job will take. If they’re on a fixed price, then it shouldn’t cost you more. But you will need to make sure that any payments reflect the progress and that if things are slowing down, the payments reflect this.

“We’ll be there on Monday morning,” may well mean later in the week or even the following week. Why? It may suggest a contractor with a poor sense of responsibility. But it could be that they were unavoidably delayed on their previous job by, say, bad weather, and rather than leave that job unfinished, they’ve delayed starting yours. One day, when they’re finishing off your home, you might be glad of that trait.

Actually it’s what you say that counts. Left to their own devices, many builders and subcontractors will do what’s quickest, cheapest and easiest for them.

So you need to make clear from the outset your expectations and specifications for each task. But you need to check them out first of all and then tie them down to a clear price and as precise a timetable as possible.

In reality, your quest to find a builder isn't going to be the easiest part of your build. In fact, with a trades shortage resulting in a 20-year-high in demand for building work, finding the right team to take on your build is trickier now than it has ever been.

Yet, the importance of getting the right builder on board can't be overlooked. Not only will it result in the best quality build, but having a good relationship with your builder will ensure you get exactly what you want, while potentially saving you time and money along the way.

But where do you find a builder like that? Our 13-step guide will help you not only find the right builder for you, but root out the cowboy builders along the way that could turn your dream of a self build or extension into a living nightmare.

1. Find a builder working locally

Finding a builder locally can have huge benefits when it comes to your build. Time on site, their knowledge of local planning permission, builders’ merchants and other local trades are all invaluable nuggets of knowledge that you’ll welcome on site.

There’s no harm in taking a walk around where you live or going on a little drive locally to spot any works going on in your area. It’ll give you an idea of the builders who are active close by, plus if you see a builder's board, it’s a sign that at the very least this is a builder proud of their job and looking for more.

You don’t necessarily have to like the style of work they are currently carrying out – after all, many people opt for ordinary extensions and new homes – but a builder can only produce what’s on the plans in front of them.

2. Get recommendations from other tradespeople 

If you’ve used an electrician before or a local plumber and liked their work, why not contact them and ask if they know of any good builders they’d recommend?

Most tradesmen get used to seeing the same familiar names around the sites they are working on and often have preferences for who they like to work with – and who they see as a good source of work.

If you can engage with one of them, you can open up a whole network of local, reliable names.

3. Ask friends to recommend a builder

Word of mouth is a cliché, but asking friends and family if they’d recommend anyone is always a good place to start.

A lot of trades rely on word of mouth and if you can find a builder through someone you trust and whose work you can go and visit, then you can make a decision about whether they’ll do a good job.

4. Always talk to previous customers

Once you’ve found a builder you like, don’t be afraid to ask them for a list of previous customers; they should be happy to provide details if they’re confident they’ve done a successful job. This will give you an ideal opportunity to really find out what they’re like and see examples of their work first-hand.

Meeting previous customers is a great way of finding out not just about the quality of a builder’s work but also other things that are important.

Chris Lawson, Senior Architectural Designer at CK Architectural, says, "Recommendation is king, get referrals from their previous projects and make sure they are similar projects completed recently, not the one good one they did four years ago."

5. Find a builder online

A good place to starting looking online to find a builder is on sites like the Federation of Master Builders.

They have a search tool where you can find specific trades in your area and look at their references. All FMB members are vetted and independently inspected, and are checked to ensure that they have the correct build insurances in place.

Checkatrade and the Guild of Master Craftsmen are also good places to find a builder local to where you live. They offer stringent checks, which should give you more reassurance.

If you’ve found a few contacts, take a look at their website to find out what work they cover and to see if you can look at examples of their previous work.

However, Chris Lawson warms, "Whilst Facebook, Trustpilot and Google reviews will tell you some of the issues, it does have a positive bias and is easy enough to gain good reviews inorganically. Also, the negative reviews can be clients with abnormally high expectations or a tendency to view the world negatively."

6. Find a builder through your architect

Many local architects and designers will have experience of dozens of projects similar to yours, in your area. Depending on the extent of your arrangement with your designer, they may be able to help you find a good builder.

Even if your designer is offering no more than a fixed price design service, they remain one of your few early contacts who will have experience of the local building scene and are still worth tapping up for a few names.

You cannot benefit from zero rating for VAT on a new build, or most of the VAT concessions on renovation work if the builder you hire is not VAT registered.

7. Make use of your local authority’s approved builder partnership scheme

"Local authority building control are not allowed by law to recommend any builders directly, says Chris Lawson.

"Being a local authority, they are to remain impartial and unbiased. However, there is a local authority approved builder partnership scheme that can be found on your local council planning page."

8. Beware of 'too good to be true' quotes

A high price is not necessarily a sign of quality in a building firm but, more than that, it is important to resist the obvious temptations of a low price. If one building contractor comes back to your tender documents with a quote for your work which is significantly lower than the other tender prices, you need to be suspicious.

It may just be that the other builders' quotes are excessively high and the one firm is simply good value.

But, more than likely the one firm is putting in a speculative bid to try and get the work – and aims to make more profit on the project by, for instance, cutting corners or introducing a range of extra charges as work progresses.

This can lead to disputes further down the line – when it is much more difficult to do anything about it.

Either that or, as they begin to find the work hopelessly unprofitable and end up making a loss on it, they simply pack up and walk off to more lucrative pastures.

Chris Lawson says, “Pay particular attention to PC sums. These are presumed costs and can be a lot cheaper than reality to get the final price down and then uplifted during the project. Ensure the drawing package is well detailed and referenced in the quotation. Ask for prices should any unknown item arise, such as moving a drain or deeper foundations."

9. Access a builder's suitability before you commit

Once you have a list of recommended builders, it is time to look at exactly what they offer. There are a few questions you should be asking.

First, where are they based, and what jobs do they already have on the go? Whether a trade is local and what they’re already committed to will tell you a lot about whether it’s realistic for them to deliver what they promise.

Another good indication that someone is worth hiring is time served – look for experienced workers where possible.

Last, find out whether your prospective team is employed directly or self-employed subbies. Neither of these situations is particularly preferable, per se, but knowing will give you a clearer idea of what you’re paying for.

Equally important are matters of qualification and paperwork.

What to remember:

• Are you hiring someone who will be able to sign off on gas and electrics? 
• Have they got the right insurance and warranties in place?
• If they’re a member of a trade organisation, what does that actually mean? Does it commit them to a higher standard of work, or have they simply paid for the right to display a fancy logo on their van?

Chris Lawson adds, "The builder should have a lot of experience in the renovation you are undertaking, some are more suited to large scale shell works than the finer detail and finishing. Note also that recently, builders have more legal responsibilities such as principle designer in both CDM (construction design management) and building control sign off.

"Ensure they are capable of undertaking these roles with health and safety issues, coordinating the on-site design with building control, or you won't get the project signed off."

10. Evaluate your builder's estimate

Familiarise yourself with how to work through your estimate as this will play a large part in your decision making.

You need to ask the following questions in relation to each:

• How detailed is it?
• Is it broken down?
• Is there a split between materials and labour?
• Is client relationship management (CRM) included? This is the job of keeping everyone in the loop — most importantly you!
• Is a Health & Safety report included in the price?
• Does it cover everything you have asked for?
• Has waste been properly accounted for? Are skips and muck-away lorries included?
• Are there any elements which stand out to you?
• Is it clear whether VAT is included?
• Is there a project management fee included, or will you be running the job for yourself?
• How many site meetings are planned to keep everything communicated and up to date?
• Has allowance been made for building inspectors’ fees?
• If the estimate is for next year, have year-on-year price increases been taken into account, especially when it comes to materials?

It's worth familiarising yourself with how to pay a builder at this point too, to ensure that you meet the builder's expectations and have the cash flow to keep the project moving.

Chris Lawson adds, "The builder's estimate should transpire into a fixed quotation with as many items clearly defined as possible, including compliance with building control items listed in the ground, structure and finishing elements."

11. Get a current reference

Another good way to size up potential builders is to speak to people who are having work done by them while they’re not there. This will let you ask off the record what they are like to have in the house:

• Are they polite? 
• Tidy? 
• Punctual? 
• What’s their communication like? 

The answers to these questions are nearly as important as the quality of their finished work.

"One of the red flags when choosing a builder or building company is if they have no portfolio or previous examples of their work," says Christopher Tambeh, owner of Fortify Construction Ltd.

"Professional building companies are proud of their work and should be able to show you examples of recent projects alongside customer testimonials and references that highlight the quality of their work, reliability, and professionalism."

12. Find a builder who can project manage

Project management comes with a lot of responsibilities and takes up a lot of time, but it is one way to get the best from your builder. These responsibilities vary depending on the job, but broadly include the following:

• Making sure the necessary trades are on the job at the correct time 
• Liaising with trades to make sure all the materials they need arrive on time 
• Attending regular meetings with the client to keep them updated 
• Arranging impromptu meetings to allow the client to make important decisions that arise as the build progresses 
• Arranging and running meetings with building inspectors 
• Keeping on top of any extra works, including organising trades, sourcing materials and keeping the client in the loop 
• Liaising with the architect and structural engineer on any amendments to their work that become necessary, and organising these works moving forward. 

If a job is run well, it will generally run on time and on budget and be relatively stress-free.

After considering all this, you might find that your head is spinning. In the end though, there is something to be said for your gut feeling.

It’s impossible to weigh every single little thing up, so if you have a good feeling about one particular builder or contractor, and the price is right, then go with it.

13. Get a contract in place

A building contract that details the extent of the work to be carried out in return for the agreed price – in addition to recording any extras as yet unagreed – is a useful point of reference in the event of any dispute.

It will protect you in the event of anything going wrong, and documents everything to provide both parties with peace of mind. JCT offers the most popular jargon-free contracts.

"Never proceed with building work without a proper written contract. A written contract protects both parties and ensures everyone understands their responsibilities," says Christopher Tambeh.

"A building project contract should include a detailed scope of work and materials specifications, a clear timeline with key milestones, a payment schedule tied to work completion, change order procedures, warranty information, the company’s dispute resolution process, and its health and safety responsibilities."

Chris Lawson concludes, "You may think all builders are alike, but they vary considerably from good, honest tradesmen to astute business professionals."

For more expert advice, find out which questions to ask before hiring a builder, and read our complete guide to building an extension.

What size extension can be built under Permitted Development (PD)? That's a question that many homeowners who want to extend or renovate want to know the answer to.

PD rights can help you avoid the need to apply for full planning permission if the size of your build meets the specific limits set out in the criteria.

Porches, small extensions and loft conversions could all fall under Permitted Development, however the criteria you have to meet is strict, so we've created this beginner's guide to give you some helpful insight about how PD works and the requirements your project will have to meet.

Latest Changes to Permitted Development

There have been several new PD rights in England in recent years, including a significant change for extenders, which saw the introduction made back in September 2020 of a fast-track for two-storey extensions on homes.

Another change took effect in August 2020 which makes it easier to turn commercial premises into homes. A new class MA (‘Mercantile to Abode’) now allows the conversion of any empty Class E commercial premises, such as offices, restaurants, shops and gyms into new homes without planning permission.

What is Permitted Development?

What Does Permitted Development Mean for a Homeowner?

Permitted Development grants rights to enable homeowners to undertake certain types of work without the need to apply for planning permission. It means it's quite possible that building works like the addition of an extension or outbuilding, for example, might fall under the terms of Permitted Development.

This implied consent of Permitted Development is granted in the form of General Development Planning Orders (GDPOs) which apply separately to England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland.

What You Can and Can't Do Under Permitted Development

What Can I Build Under Permitted Development?

The scope of your Permitted Development rights are varied and cover both internal and external works, but there are strict design criteria that need to be adhered to. If your project falls outside of the set criteria, then it is likely you will need to submit a planning application.

Some home improvements that you can make under Permitted Development include:

• Building a small rear extension within certain limitations — this includes both single storey extensions and double storey extensions
• Building a porch less than 3m2
• Changes of use, such as loft conversions, garage conversions and basement conversion
• Internal alterations, such as knocking down internal walls
• Installing microgeneration equipment such as solar panels (apart from wind turbines)
• Installing satellite dishes and erecting antenna
• Adding rooflights or dormer windows

(MORE: 23 Things You Can Do Without Planning Permission)

What Can't I Build Under Permitted Development?

If you plan on building a new house or creating a new dwelling by subdividing another property, for example, it is likely you will not be covered by your Permitted Development rights and you will need to make a planning application.

Similarly if you want to make changes to a listed building or property in a designated area, then it is probable that Permitted Development rights will be restricted. Always check with your local planning authority before starting to work.

There is a Limit as to How Many Changes You Can Make

All Permitted Development requirements apply to the dwelling as it was originally built, or as it stood on 1st July 1948 and as such, there is a limit to how many changes you can make to your home under PD. Unfortunately, the slate is not wiped clean when you buy a home — any space added by past owners since 1948 counts towards your Permitted Development allocation.

Do All Extensions Fall Under Permitted Development?

No. Many factors will deem whether an extension can be built under PD. The size of the proposed extension and its location, as well as the type of windows you plan on including, will all play a part in whether it's permissible under PD. Larger extensions are likely to require planning permission.

Our guide to building an extension explains the rules in more detail.

However, understanding PD rights can be really helpful if you make a planning application for something that is just a little larger than PD allows. This is because the council is duty-bound to compare what you want with what you can do anyway.

If PD would allow you a certain size of extension and what you want to build is a few meters higher or longer, remember that the council can only actually assess the impact of those additional elements. The fall back is your PD, and they cannot prevent that, so it’s only the additional amount that they can legitimately object to.

Are There any Restrictions with Permitted Development? 

If you live in a flat or maisonette then PD Rights do not apply due to the impact that any alterations could have on neighbouring properties.

If your house is located in a Designated Area, such as a National Park, Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty or Conservation Area then your Permitted Development rights may be restricted or removed under what is known as an Article 4 direction. This is where rights have been removed in the interest of maintaining the character of the local area. This could also be the case if your property is listed.

Alternatively, if you’re planning to self build a replacement dwelling and your proposed new home is bigger than the existing house on site, then your Permitted Development rights are likely to be restricted or even removed on condition of granting planning permission.

For more details on the rules see the Planning Portal.

Should I Check my Project Falls Under Permitted Development Rights with My Council?

Yes. Do double check with your local authority or get confirmation from a qualified surveyor that your proposed works are classed as Permitted Development before you begin.

If your project falls outside the scope of permitted development, you will need to apply for planning permission.

Prior Approval

What is Prior Approval and How Does it Form Part of Permitted Development? 

In England, PD rights allow larger single storey rear extensions subject to a ‘Prior Approval’ process of up to 8m on a detached house and up to 6m on any other house. The local planning authority must be notified of the details prior to development taking place.

Details of the documents, drawings and fee (currently £96) to be submitted will be available on your local authority website.

The LPA will write to the immediate neighbours (see Neighbourhood Consultation Scheme, below) and give them at least 21 days to decide if they wish to object.

If there are no objections, then as long as an extension falls within the rules the LPA have to grant Prior Approval, the scheme can go ahead.

If there are objections the LPA will consider the impact of the proposal on the residential amenity of all adjacent neighbours and will either decide that the impact is acceptable and grant Prior Approval or take the view that the impact is not acceptable and refuse. There is a right of appeal against any refusal of a Prior Notification.

Visit the Planning Portal for more information on fees.

Prior notification can also be used to change the use of non-residential buildings to residential purposes. It can be used to change buildings from one commercial use to another, too.

Why Does the Neighbourhood Consultation Scheme Matter with PD?

If you intend to build a large single-storey rear extension of between 4m up to 8m (for a detached house) or between 3m and up to 6m on any other house*, you can now typically do so under Permitted Development (PD). But, you’ll likely need to go through the Neighbour Consultation Scheme, which is a prior approval process for large extensions.

You must notify your local authority of your intention to build a large extension and they will then notify your adjoining neighbours and consult them about your planned extension. If your neighbours raise concerns, your local authority will deem whether your plans can go ahead.

* There are caveats and criteria to meet so always check the Planning Portal.

Lawful Development Certificates

What is a Lawful Development Certificate And Do I Need One? 

The tricky bit about Permitted Development is being 100% certain you’ve interpreted the rules correctly. The way to be certain is to apply for what’s called a Lawful Development Certificate.

You provide full details of what you intend to do, explaining how it complies with Permitted Development and submit this application to the council. It’s not a planning application, it’s a determination by them that what you want to do complies with the PD regulations. It takes about the same length of time as a planning application, but it’s not discretionary based on planning officers’ opinions or neighbour objections; it’s a legal determination that you’re doing something in accordance with the rules. It’s a good way of being certain and when it comes to selling your house you can prove that it was all legal.

The cost of an LDC for proposed use or development is half the normal planning fee.

It's important to note that a Lawful Development Certificate is not the same as planning permission.

Categories of PD Rights

How Big Can an Extension be Under Permitted Development Rights?

Householder PD rights fall into different categories depending on the work being planned. These are:

Class A – Extensions (enlargement, improvement or alteration)

This allows a householder to build a single-storey side extension up to half the width of the existing dwelling; a single-storey rear extension up to 4m in length for a detached dwelling and 3m long for a semi or a terrace house; and, in certain circumstances, 3m two-storey rear extensions.

The changes that took effect on 30 May 2019 now make permanent the decision that larger single-storey rear extensions of up to 8m (6m for semi or terrace) are permissible under Class A — but do require prior notification (see ‘Lawful Development Certificates are key’).

Class B – Additions to the roof

This allows for rear dormers and hip-to-gable extensions as long as the additional volume created does not exceed 50m3 (40m3 for semis and terraced homes).

This allows for an outbuilding to be erected within a residential curtilage as long as it is sited behind the principal (often the front) elevation, does not cover more than 50% of the curtilage and is not more than 3m in height (4m for a dual-pitched roof; 2.5m where within 2m of a boundary).

There are also specific regulations relating to Hard Surfaces (Class F), Chimneys & Flues (Class G) and Microwave antennas (Class H).

FAQs

Do I Still Need Building Regulations Approval for Work Classed as Permitted Development? 

Yes. Building Regulations relate to the building work itself and not the permission to carry out the work, so your work must still comply with the stipulations of the Regs. It’s worth noting that if you need to submit a building notice or full plans application to your local authority building control, fees will also apply.

Can a Neighbour Object to Work I Carry Out Under PD? 

While a neighbour can object to any proposed changes to your home, the LPA will only be concerned with any objections that relate to material matters. To help avoid objections, keep your neighbours informed of your plans and listen to their concerns. If you can alleviate their concerns with small tweaks that don’t compromise your overall design, it’s well worth doing.

If any of your proposed works involve a party wall, you may need a party wall agreement.

What Happens if I’ve Built Assuming Permitted Development Rights, But Actually Should Have Sought Planning Permission? 

If, once an extension or outbuilding etc. is constructed, the LPA determines that the proposal does not comply with PD regulations then you may be faced with enforcement action, which would normally result in a request for a retrospective planning application.

Should permission be refused there is a real likelihood that any extensions or associated works would be required to be demolished. As such, confirmation in the form of the Lawful Development Certificate is highly recommended.

Planning permission is the formal consent from your local authority required for many building works, extensions, and changes of use in England.

It ensures your project meets national planning policy and local planning rules, balancing development with neighbours, heritage, and environmental protection.

Understanding when permission is required, and when you can build under Permitted Development rights, helps prevent enforcement issues, unexpected costs, and delays.

What is planning permission?

Planning permission is the legal authorisation given by a local planning authority to carry out development that affects the use, appearance, or structure of land or buildings. Common examples include:

• Building a house or commercial structure
• Extending, altering, or materially changing an existing building
• Changing the use of land or buildings (for example, from agricultural to residential)
• Work affecting protected places such as conservation areas or listed buildings

Not all works need planning permission, but where permission is required, you must secure it before work begins unless a Lawful Development Certificate confirms consent is not required.

What types of planning permission are there?

Your application type depends on the nature and scale of your project:

• Full Planning Permission: Most common; requires detailed plans of your proposals. Conditions may be attached that must be satisfied before or after work starts.
• Outline Planning Permission: Establishes whether the principle of development is acceptable. Reserved matters such as design, landscaping, and access are approved later.
• Householder Planning Permission: Specifically for alterations and extensions to an existing dwelling and its curtilage.
• Permission in Principle (PiP): Confirms that the proposed use of land is acceptable. Technical details are approved later before construction begins.

How much does planning permission cost?

Planning applications are not inexpensive, and costs increase if you are under-prepared. Accurate survey drawings, technical reports, and correct documentation are essential, not only to obtain permission but to ensure your project is buildable.

Cutting corners may save a small amount initially, but can lead to major expenses if your proposal is refused or non-compliant.

Councils generally waive fees for listed building consent, however, the heritage reports, specialist surveys, and drawings required for a valid application often make listed building applications more expensive than standard householder applications.

Simon Rix, a planning consultant, notes: "Many homeowners view the planning fee as the main cost, but the real expense lies in being under-prepared. A 'cheap' application that lacks a professional topographical survey or a heritage statement is a gamble. If it’s refused on a technicality, you haven't saved money, you’ve just paid for a delay. Think of your planning documents as a manual for your builder, not just a hurdle for the council."

How long does planning permission last?

Planning permission grants you the right to carry out development, but planning permission does not last indefinitely. If work hasn’t started within the time limit, permission will expire.

• England: Full planning permission usually expires three years from the grant date if work hasn’t started. A “material start” - for example, digging foundations and filling with concrete - preserves the permission. It is strongly recommended to obtain a Certificate of Lawfulness for the commencement, as proving a start date for future buyers or solicitors can be difficult if work is left incomplete.
• Scotland: Standard full planning permission expires three years from the grant date unless a different period is specified. For Planning Permission in Principle, development must normally begin within five years, and any reserved matters or technical approvals must be obtained before construction starts.
• Wales: Full planning permission generally must be obtained within five years. Outline permissions require submission of reserved matters within three years, and development must begin either two years after reserved matters approval or five years from the original grant, whichever is longer.

Once a material start is made within the applicable period, planning permission generally remains valid, subject to any conditions attached to the consent.

What can I build without planning permission?

There are many things you can do to your home that don't require planning permission, as some works are allowed under Permitted Development rights.

If you comply with the limits and conditions set by national rules, you can build without a full application, but certain impacts may still require prior approval.

Typical householder examples include single-storey rear extensions within defined depth limits, garden buildings under size limits, and loft conversions, provided conditions on height, volume, site coverage, and neighbour impact are met. Permitted Development rules are technical and vary by location, particularly in conservation areas and protected landscapes.

Simon Rix comments: "Permitted Development is often marketed as 'planning-lite,' but the technical requirements are actually more rigid than a full application. There is no room for negotiation or subjective interpretation; you either meet the millimetre-perfect criteria or you don't. If your project is even slightly 'grey area,' always opt for a Lawful Development Certificate. It's your only legal insurance policy against future enforcement."

When will I need planning permission for an extension?

Even where Permitted Development rights might apply, extensions may require planning permission if they exceed size limits or have significant impacts on neighbours, such as two-storey extensions, large side extensions, balconies, or verandas.

In conservation areas or on listed buildings, additional controls almost always require planning permission.

How long does it take to get planning permission?

Local authorities aim to decide most applications within 8 weeks from validation (when all required information is submitted). Larger or more complex developments have a statutory limit of 13 weeks, and schemes requiring an Environmental Impact Assessment can take up to 16 weeks.

These are targets, not guaranteed deadlines. Many decisions take longer, often extended by written agreement to allow consultation, technical reviews, or amended plans. Government guidance (the Planning Guarantee) expects non-major applications to be decided within 16 weeks, but this is advisory rather than a strict statutory limit.

Do I need to notify my neighbours?

There is no legal requirement to notify neighbours before submitting an application. However, neighbours will be consulted and invited to comment, together with parish councils (in England and Wales), but only those objections based on material considerations are taken into account.

Concerns based on material planning considerations - such as privacy, traffic, or noise - are taken into account. Informally informing neighbours in advance can help reduce objections.

Can I make changes after permission is granted?

Minor changes may be possible via a non-material amendment if they do not significantly alter the approved scheme. Larger changes generally require a new planning application. Always check with your local authority before commencing work.

What happens if you build without planning permission?

Carrying out development without the required planning permission is unlawful. Authorities can issue enforcement notices requiring alteration or removal of unauthorised works.

Appeals and retrospective planning applications are possible, but if these are rejected and you fail to comply, it can result in prosecution and significant fines.

What is the 10-year rule & transitional rights

In April 2024, England replaced the automatic “4-year rule” with a 10-year enforcement window for unauthorised development, including building works and changes of use.

Transitional provisions mean that the 4-year limit still applies to any development that was substantially complete or any change of use started before 25 April 2024. This ensures that completed developments are not retrospectively “un-legalised.”

For example:

• Project completed January 2022 → under the 4-year rule, becomes immune in January 2026
• Project completed May 2024 → under the 10-year rule, becomes immune in May 2034

Once the relevant 4- or 10-year period passes without enforcement action, the development becomes lawful. You can then apply for a Certificate of Lawfulness, which is essential for selling the property. Evidence such as dated photos, builder invoices, or council tax records is vital.

Simon Rix observes: "The shift from a 4-year to a 10-year enforcement window in England is the biggest shake-up to planning 'loopholes' in a generation. It effectively ends the 'wait and see' strategy for unauthorised extensions. If you are building without consent today, you need to ensure your record-keeping - utility bills, dated photos, and receipts - can cover a full decade."

Can I get planning permission in the countryside?

Yes, but rural areas, Green Belt land, and protected landscapes (such as Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty) have stricter rules, but there are some green belt planning loopholes.

Permissions are generally granted where proposals demonstrate strong design merit, environmental or community benefit, or compliance with national planning policy.

Paragraph 84 of the National Planning Policy Framework sets out national policy for rural housing. Isolated new homes are generally discouraged, but specific exceptions exist and are applied sparingly.

Can I apply on land I don’t own?

Yes. You can submit a planning application on land you do not own, but the submission must include the correct ownership certificate to confirm land ownership status.

Planning permission remains central to building and extending property in the UK.

Understanding the types of applications, fee structures, Permitted Development rights, enforcement limits under the 10-year rule, and neighbour consultation processes will help you navigate the system successfully.

Proper preparation, professional surveys, and record-keeping are key to avoiding delays, refusals, or legal complications.

You can see examples of 5 incredible homes that beat tough countryside planning rules if you need inspiration, as well as 14 secrets to ensure planning success for some extra tips.

If you’re planning a self build or extension project and researching build options, there’s a good chance you’ve come across structural insulated panels, also known as SIPs.

This build method has become popular with self-builders, especially those who want a home that’s quick to build, energy-efficient and strong enough to last a lifetime. But what exactly are SIPs, and how do they compare with the more traditional timber frame systems?

Whether you’re still weighing up your options or leaning towards SIPs but need that final reassurance, this article from self build expert, Mark Stevenson and architect, Allan Corfield, will help to inform your decision by explaining how SIPs work, their benefits and costs, and how they stack up against other timber systems.

What are SIPs?

SIPs are essentially a sandwich – two layers of oriented strand board (OSB3) with a solid insulation core in between. Once bonded together, the panel becomes extremely rigid and strong, giving it both structural and thermal qualities.

These blank panels start their life in a 1.2m-wide format and come in various standardised heights from 2.4m to 7.45m.

The panels are then cut to size, timber edge pieces added and any openings formed. The same type of structural insulated panel is used for building the external walls, any internal loadbearing walls and the roof panels.

And, thanks to their precision manufacturing and robust jointing methods, they create a super airtight building envelope.

What sets SIPs apart from traditional timber frame construction is that they’re not just a frame filled with insulation – the insulation is structural. That means fewer air gaps, less thermal bridges, fewer weak points, and a structure that goes up fast and stays warm with a low energy input.

Types of SIP

There are two types of SIPs panels. Both use two OSB boards, but one sandwiches polystyrene board between them while the other has urethane pumped inside.

Both are wrapped in timber for strength, with depths of panels between 195mm and 250mm. The urethane method tends to make slimmer panels with slightly better thermal performance.

EPS panels range from 95 to 195mm (but can go much deeper, if required). The injected urethane core has a slightly better thermal performance, and therefore these panels tend to be smaller – with the larger panels being 172mm. Always go for the deeper panel if you are trying to create a low-energy home, with achievable U values going down as low as 0.13W/m2K.

All of the blank panels are surrounded by solid structural grade timber, giving the panels great stability and strength.

Joining SIP panels together

Most manufacturers use a ‘male to female’ timber stud to connect the panels to each other, and in most SIPs projects, two types of jointing are required.

For structural joints, such as where there is a structural steel, a lintel, or a spot load from a glulam beam, c24 timber is used to join the panels. Elsewhere, spline joints are used.

However, some manufacturers use a unique jointing system, which is made up from a mini panel. This can help with lowering the overall wall U value and minimise air leakage at the connection joints.

There are two main products:

• The first is a timber I-joist – these have a vertical web made from OSB and a top and bottom flange of solid timber
• The second is a posi-joist. This has the same solid top and bottom flange but with a metal vertical web.

Both products range from 200mm to 400mm deep (depending on the span) and are topped with a structural floor deck, giving rigid squeak-free floors up to 5m in width (without extra support).

SIPs vs timber frame construction

Most people are familiar with timber frame construction. It’s been used in the UK for decades, with modern versions including the insulation and membranes needed to offer a high-performance wall. Timber frame panels are usually assembled in a factory and delivered to site as closed panels – which means the insulation and vapour control layers are already in place, speeding up the build.

SIPs are, in many ways, an evolution of that idea. Rather than building a frame and then adding insulation into it, SIPs combine the structure and the insulation in one solid panel. This makes for a stiff, strong wall, with less structural timber and reduced risk of poor insulation installation as the insulation is fully bonded in the manufacturing process

One of the clearest advantages of SIPs is their airtightness. With traditional timber frames, it’s entirely possible to achieve a good airtightness result, but it requires a host of membranes, tapes and sealants and meticulous attention to detail. SIPs, on the other hand, are almost designed to be airtight by default, thanks to their bonded construction method and jointing systems that lock together tightly without leaving gaps.

Advantages of building with SIPs

One of the key benefits over traditional timber frame or modern closed timber frame systems is the spacing of the vertical timber studs within the walls. In a timber frame building these are at 600mm centres, while in a SIPs wall they are at 1200mm centres. Therefore the amount of poorly performing timber in the wall is halved. This dramatically reduces repeated cold-bridging in the building.

Factory-made SIPs panels will be more accurate than on-site cut timber frames, and this helps to limit gaps in construction. This, along with the inherent airtightness of oriented strand boards (OSB) and a rigid insulation core, helps to limit air leakage in the building, making SIPs a great fit for Passivhaus projects.

As the roof panels are structural there is also no need for traditional roof trusses – the panels can easily span 4.8m from eaves to ridge and sit on a boxed-in steel beam or a feature glulam timber beam. This can transform the top floor from a standard 2.4m floor-to-ceiling height, up to a double height of 3.6m.

Insulation and energy performance

If you’re building to meet – or beat – the latest Building Regulations, SIPs can make it easier. SIPs typically use polyurethane or polystyrene insulation cores with thermal conductivity as low as 0.024 W/mK. This means thinner walls can deliver impressive U-values – often around 0.15 W/m²K or lower and consistent across the whole structure.

If you’re aiming for Passivhaus or extremely low operational carbon targets, SIPs are very hard to beat. Their ability to prevent thermal bridging and achieve airtightness makes them ideal for anyone who wants a home that ‘sips’ rather than ‘gulps’, energy.

Carbon footprint

If sustainability is one of your key concerns – and for many self-builders, it is – SIPs are inherently low-carbon building systems. Timber is widely acknowledged as the most sustainable mainstream building material and compared to brick-and-block construction, its embodied carbon can be up to 82% lower. That’s a huge saving before you even switch on the lights.

In terms of operational carbon – the energy used to heat and run your home – SIPs offer a slight edge simply because of their performance. A SIPs home designed well, with high-performance windows and doors and mechanical ventilation with heat recovery (MVHR), has every chance of reaching ultra-low energy standards.

Are there any disadvantages to SIPs?

The main issue with SIPs is when they're exposed to moisture, and therefore there are some sites that don't suit a SIPs build. It's not recommended to use structural insulated panels on plots in flood zones or below ground, so here a masonry build would prevail.

However, there is nothing stopping you creating a hybrid build, with a masonry ground floor and SIPs for the upper storeys.

While the airtightness factor is a quality of SIPs, it also means you'll need to have adequate ventilation to avoid condensation building up and air becoming stale in the home.

You may also find that as SIPs are a specialist build system, you might find it harder to find builders who are experienced in using them.

How to design using SIPs

A SIPs designer will be armed with the right info about how to build a SIPs home and be able to design to the capabilities of the product, making sure you get the most for your money. Using an architect who has previous experience of designing with SIPs in mind will help make the process easier too.

Most construction products come in standardised sizes, so it makes sense to set out your design based around these. As the most common structural insulated panels come as 1.2m x 2.7m sheets, it also makes sense to utilise a 1.2m floorplan grid. That way you can lay out your walls along a grid, which will minimise the amount of cut panels. Every time the fabricator has to cut a section of a panel you will be charged for the labour time and for the disposal of the excess material.

The most common ground floor ceiling height is 2.4m, which can be created by using a 2.7m high panel with a 300mm floor joist hung from the top – giving 2.4m, which is also the size of a piece of plasterboard.

As you are creating an airtight fabric (aim for an air test value as low as 1.0m3/hour/m2), you need a ventilation strategy, such as an mVHR whole house system. The design and pipework integration has to be carefully considered with the floor joist layout.

Features such as glazed gables can also be added and the large opening is usually created by a steel frame that is fitted within the SIPs frame around the opening, then standard double or triple-glazed units are linked and stacked on top of each other. Ensure that your design team work closely with your frame and window supplier.

If large open plan, flexible spaces appeal, these are easy to accommodate within a SIPs home as well, due to the long spans of the floor joists and roof panels. The I-joist floor system can efficiently span 5m (300mm deep joists at 600mm centres). If you want a wider span, the most cost-effective solution is to integrate a steel beam, hidden in the floor build-up.

Building regulations and planning with SIPs

There’s often a misconception that planning permission can restrict what kind of building system you use – it can’t. As long as you meet the planning authority’s energy performance requirements and design criteria – usually related to appearance and scale – you’re free to choose the build system you like.

What you do need to ensure is compliance with Building Regulations. That means meeting structural requirements (Approved Document A) and energy efficiency standards (Approved Document L), among others.

SIPs are slightly more ‘novel’ in the sense that they have their own structural characteristics and performance data, so expect building control to ask a few more questions and request the proper calculations. Reputable SIPs providers will be used to this and can provide all the necessary documentation.

How long do SIP homes take to build?

One of the biggest appeals of building with SIPs is speed. Like timber frame, SIPs are factory-manufactured and delivered to site in panelised form. That means less time building on site, fewer delays due to weather, and a more predictable build schedule. For an average-sized house, the structural shell can usually be up and weather-tight within four to six weeks.

If you’re building in a location with poor access or limited space, SIPs can be delivered in smaller panel formats to suit. And for homes with rooms in the roof – rather than traditional trussed rafters – SIPs can make that process a lot simpler and quicker.

A typical two-storey 200m2 house could take just 12 days to factory fabricate and then 12 days to erect on site.

Compare this to a traditional timber frame construction which will take at least 3-4 weeks to get the frame erected. On average, building with SIPs is 55% quicker than a timber frame build.

This means savings on costs like scaffolding, plant hire and site insurance, bringing overall project costs in line with other build systems

Are SIPs expensive?

Comparing wall system costs, pound for pound, SIPs generally cost more than basic timber frame systems. But the gap isn’t massive – and when you factor in the performance benefits, reduced heating bills and speed of build, that extra investment may well be worth it.

Looking at project costs, a basic timber frame with brick cladding is treated as the 100% benchmark. A high-performance timber frame might be 107%, while a SIPs build with brick could come in around 116%.

Sounds expensive, but because the structure typically represents about 25% of the overall build budget, that difference only translates to about 3% extra on your whole project. For many self-builders aiming for long-term savings and better performance, it’s a price worth paying.

Myths and misconceptions

There’s still a bit of suspicion about timber systems, especially from those more familiar with masonry. But many of these doubts don’t hold up to scrutiny. For starters, all modern build systems – timber, SIPs, or otherwise – must comply with the same engineering standards. Timber homes are just as strong and arguably more resilient in high-wind areas thanks to their inherent flexibility.

As for fire safety, yes, timber burns – but so do many parts of masonry builds, including the floor joists and roof trusses. What matters is how the structure is protected, and both timber frame and SIPs homes are usually encased in plasterboard, stipulated by a fire test to prove the fire resistance and compliance with Building Regulations.

Concerns around rot are also overblown. Structural timbers are kiln-dried, treated, and kept on the dry side of the wall. As long as you build properly and maintain your home – especially cladding and roofing – timber buildings are very durable and will easily last a century or more.

There’s also a myth that SIPs homes are difficult to modify or extend. That’s only true if you don’t know what you’re doing. With proper guidance from the original manufacturer or a structural engineer, adapting a SIPs structure is completely manageable.

And for anyone worried about mortgages or insurance, these systems have been around long enough and are backed by certifications like BBA, LABC Assured, and STA Assure. You might have to dig a little deeper to find a lender who understands SIPs, but they’re out there – and if you’re working with a reputable manufacturer, they can often point you in the right direction.

Are SIPs right for you?

Choosing between SIPs and timber frame comes down to what you want from your build. If you’re looking for exceptional thermal performance, robust airtightness, and a system that gets you to Passivhaus standards, then SIPs are likely to be the better fit. They’re not always the cheapest, but they deliver long-term savings, comfort and sustainability that are hard to match.

For those focused on natural materials or looking to incorporate specific insulation types, a timber frame might offer more flexibility. But either way, you’re choosing a modern, sustainable system with a low carbon footprint and high-performance credentials.

FAQs

Are SIPs load-bearing?

Yes, structural insulated panels have two applications. First and foremost, they can be used as a full structural system for a build. Secondly, SIPs are also used for infill walling for steel, concrete, oak or glulam timber frame structures.

Can I use SIPs to build my extension?

SIPs can be used to quickly erect certain types of extension, however, when it comes to the cost implications, the savings made in time spent on site and being able to build in any weather are more substantial on a scaled up build, so when it comes to cost savings, traditional build methods are often still more affordable for smaller projects.

What external finishes can I use with SIPs?

As the panels provide the insulation and structure, there is no need for the external finish to provide any structural support, other than to support itself. This means that you can use modern, lightweight cladding systems, including timber, render board, rainscreen cladding systems or even stone/brick slips.

The chosen façade treatment is fitted via 50mm timber battens (required for ventilation) fixed to the outside of the kit, which will have been left with a breathable membrane. If you are going for a simple horizontal timber boarding, a competent DIYer could fit it themselves.

Heavier cladding options such as external skin of brick or stone will need to be built off their own foundations.

Services go in a service void, created with a 25mm x 50mm timber batten. This service void is wide enough to house your heating and electrical services, with larger pipes (such as MVHR or soil waste) located in internal timber stud walls.

How long will a SIPs home last?

Structural insulated panels have an estimated lifespan of 60+ years, while some of the first instances of SIPs builds are now 90 years old, they've only been in more common usage for the last three decades.

The final advice for building with SIPs? Make sure you get the right build team on board from the start. Interview various SIPs companies, choosing the company that gives a balance of value for money, quality product and assistance throughout the project. Try to work with a company that provides a total package: design, fabrication and site erection.

Work with design professionals who are used to working with SIPs and can maximise the benefits and help reduce the costs, and design efficiently, by working with standard panel widths and heights. This will give you the maximum building for your money.

And, before the breathable building paper is fitted to the outside of the kit, get your architect to ‘snag’ the building prior to releasing the final payment. This way any issues with the fabric can be identified and then corrected before your cladding ideas are applied.

Learning how to register a new address is one of those admin jobs you'll need to add to the ever-growing list to get done when self building. But how simple is it to do?

Your self build will need a number and/or name to identify, but can you pick what you like or are there rules and regulations to follow? Who can you speak to about it and what's the process?

Here, planning expert Simon Rix explains everything you need to know to ensure your address is registered in the right way. 

 Can you Come up With the Name or Number Yourself? 

If you’ve had a big input into creating your own self build home, you’ll no doubt want to have a say in what it’s called. Whilst you can propose almost any name, in the end it’ll be up to your local council make the final decision. 

Generally, if there are no house numbers for the street you’ve built on, ie. only names, then you will have to have a name too. If there is an existing numbering system, you can slot in with that, eg you might become '8a Somewhere Close' if your house is an infill between numbers 8 and 9. Or you could choose a name instead. Or both. 

The key is it must be logical and avoid confusion, which is why similar names to others already used in the area are unlikely to be approved.

What do I Need to do to get an Official Name and/or Number for my New House?

You will need to apply to your local council. Although there is some national guidance, most local authorities have their own too, so it’s best to head to their website to check out what they say there. 

Some councils encourage references to local historical heritage, natural or landscape features. Others suggest contacting their street naming team for advice and you can even talk to your local town or parish council too if you have one. 

You’ll then need to complete the appropriate form, which may require your top three suggested names, so the council can have a choice.

When Should I Apply and How Much Will it Cost?

The best time to apply is as soon as possible after you have achieved planning permission. Fees charged by councils vary from zero to almost £100, but most are around the £40 or £50 mark.

Does Getting a Name or Number for a House Prove you Have the Right to use it as a Residential Dwelling?

I’m afraid not. Some people think it’s a clever way to avoid getting planning permission, but it’s a totally different system. One of my clients tried this but ended up with an enforcement notice to move out and return the barn he had converted without consent back to agricultural use.

What Happens When My New Address is Approved?

When your new name or number is approved by the local council, they will inform Royal Mail (who will then assign you a postcode) and others including other council departments (such as Council Tax, Electoral Registration, Planning, Building Control and Waste Management), plus the fire and rescue service, your local ambulance service, the Police and the national Land Registry. 

It’s your legal responsibility to ensure the name and/or number of your property is displayed and clearly readable from the road. You can mount it on your gate, gate post, door or wall, but you’ll need to ensure that there is a good colour contrast between the letters or numerals and the background to which they are fixed, and that they are of a sufficient size, usually more than 6cm high.

House extensions come in all shapes and sizes, but when it comes to building an extension, the expense and disruption it involves means it's important to get it right and make the space work hard for you. 

If you've never undergone the process of building a house extension before, it can be hard to know what to expect, but keeping the channels of communication open with your architect, builder or whoever's involved in the design and build process is crucial. 

With that in mind, we've outlined 25 essential questions you should ask to ensure that you're getting the most from your space, it meets Building reg and planning requirements and that you don't find yourself with problems along the line that halt the build process. Getting these answers early on will save you from a major headache later!

1. How Much Value Will my House Extension add?

For house extensions to make economic sense, you need to make sure the value added is greater than the cost of the project. It can be difficult to assess, but finding similar local properties and seeing how much they’ve sold for can be a useful guide.

Be aware of the ceiling value in your area, and be prepared to adjust your plans if necessary.

2. What Building Regulations Apply to House Extensions?

Even if your house extension can be built under Permitted Development rights, work must get Building Regulations approval.

The Building Regulations set out minimum requirements for:

• structural integrity
• fire safety
• energy efficiency
• damp proofing
• ventilation
• and other key aspects that ensure a building is safe.

Most repair work is excluded from Building Regulations, with the exceptions of replacement windows, under­­pinning and rewiring. However, apart from certain new buildings such as sheds, outbuildings and some conser­vatories, all new building work, including altera­tions, must comply with the Regulations.

Typical examples of work needing approval: 

• House extensions 
• Loft conversions
• Internal structural alterations, such as knocking down an internal wall that is loadbearing
• Installation of baths, showers, WCs which involve new drainage or waste plumbing
• Installation of new heating appliances
• New chimneys or flues
• Altered openings for new windows

3. How Big Should I Build my House Extension?

Often extenders get preoccupied with only thinking of the project in terms of square metres, not in terms of what that size is adding to the house. Bigger is not always better when it comes to house extensions, and there are often ways of creating the feeling of more space, without adding a large extension.

This is often achieved through clever design, not only of the new space, but also what is already there.

4. Who is the Right Designer for my House Extension?

When it comes to the design of your extensions, there are a number of options you can choose from.

These include:

• architects
• architectural technicians
• specialist designers
• package build companies’ in-house design teams

Ask for recommendations from friends, family and neighbours, but also look online for practices that have designed projects similar to what you are hoping to build.

5. How Thermally Efficient are my House Extension Plans? 

By taking a fabric first approach to your new house extension, you may be able to far outstrip the U values and airtightness levels specified by the Building Regulations.

However, appending a thermally-efficient extension to a poorly insulated home will not make it cheaper to run overnight and you should look to improve the efficiency of the main house while the builders are on site.

6. What do I Need to Know About the Party Wall Act?

Your neighbours cannot stop you from build­ing up to, or even on, the boundary between your properties, even if it requires access onto their land (providing you have planning permission to do so, and there are no restrictive covenants).

The Party Wall Act allows you to carry out work on, or up to, your neighbours’ land and buildings, formalising the arrangements while also protecting everyone’s interests. This is not a matter covered by planning or building control.

If your house extension involves digging or building foundations within 3m of the boundary, party wall or party wall structure, or digging foundations within 6m of a boundary, the work will require you to comply with the Party Wall Act. In these cases you may need a surveyor to act on your behalf. The act does not apply in Scotland.

7. Is my House Extension on or Near a Sewer?

If your house extension will be built over or in the area of a sewer, you will need to contact your water board before work begins. “The location of sewers needs to be carefully considered,” Jonathan Durndell of Milton Keynes Architectural explains. “If a shared sewer (one which serves more than one property) is within 3m of your extension, then a Build Over Agreement with your local water authority is likely to be required.”

These can be tricky – and costly – especially if a new manhole is needed, or an existing one needs to be moved.

8. Are the Foundations Strong Enough to Extend Over the Existing House?

While it may seem appealing to extend above a single-storey extension or garage, these structures may not be able to support the load.

There are options where the old structure isn’t up to scratch: underpin existing shallow foundations; strengthen or bypass the existing with a steel frame bedded in new concrete pad footings; or demolish and rebuild. The latter is often the most cost-effective option.

9. Do I need to Plan in Services for my House Extension?

If you are extending your kitchen, you need to confirm the position of your units, cooker and white goods before work begins so that electrics, ventilation and plumbing can be planned in.

The same will apply if you’re building a two-storey extension and are including a new bathroom or en suite in the design.

10. Can my Boiler Cope with a House Extension?

Adding house extensions will add demand to current hot water and heating systems, which may not be able to cope.

It’s advised that you work out what the new extension will need to be heated effectively, and factor in your boiler output, the size of the radiators, hot water cylinder size and the reheat time.

11. Should I Live on Site During the Extension?

It is possible to live on site throughout a house extension, but aside from all the dust and mess, you may end up slowing down progress as the builders attempt to work around your life.

If you’re not prepared to live with the disruption, then you should definitely consider looking for temporary accommodation (short-term rental, hotel or staying with family or friends).

12. How Will Access Restrictions Affect my Build?

If you live in a terraced home with restricted access, that may affect the options you have for your house extension design. For example, you may not be able to use certain construction methods, or you may need to make arrangements with your neighbours to temporarily remove fence panels or use their land for short-term storage.

13. How Does my Extension Relate to the Existing House?

How well the additional space sits alongside the original property will undoubtedly affect the success of the project. While there are no hard and fast rules, you will need to make a decision on whether you want your new house extension to complement the main house or contrast with it. 

14. Could Building Off-Site Save me Time and Money?

Off-site construction systems, including cross laminated timber (CLT), oak frame, structural insulated panels (SIPs) and timber frame, often work well on house extension projects. As the name suggests, the majority of work happens in a factory off-site, and components are then delivered to site ready for erection.

15. Should I Project Manage my own House Extension?

“I would always maintain that the best person to oversee an extension that you are proposing to utilise and enjoy is yourself,” says project manager Bob Branscombe. “No one knows the space or the building better than you, and nobody has a greater level of interest in getting it right.”

Project managing any building project requires high levels of patience, organisation, problem-solving and decision-making skills. If you don’t feel confident dealing with the problems associated with a build site or have the time available, a professional PM, main contractor or package company is a must.

16. Will I Need to pay the Community Infrastructure Levy? 

Before embarking on house extensions you should establish if you will be liable to pay the Community Infrastructure Levy (CIL). Some councils operate this scheme, and it’s applicable to extensions over 100m² in gross internal area (even if they are built under Permitted Development).

However, a self builder’s relief can apply, as Jonathan Durndell of Milton Keynes Architectural, explains: “To benefit from the self builder’s relief the applicant does not have to physically construct the extension themselves but they must intend to live at the property as their main residence for a minimum of three years from completion.

“It is advisable to check with your local council to establish if any CIL charges are applicable and the route to apply and claim relief before you start construction.”

17. Do I Need Site Insurance for an Extension?

When carrying out a house extension you need to have site insurance with an A-rated insurer to cover the existing structure and the new works until you complete the project.

Even if your builder has insurance, it is important to check their documents as the majority have liability cover which will require you to prove fault in the event of a claim, which can mean a lengthy legal battles. This may also not cover any natural events claims, such as fire, flood and storm damage.

If you are vacating the property during the build, you will require site insurance or unoccupied buildings insurance which will usually be a minimum six month policy. Always contact your existing insurance provider to notify them of works before you start.

18. Are the Planning Rules Different in my Area?

Permitted Development rights are restricted in Conservation Areas. Each local authority has its own policy for areas like this, but generally the basis of the policy is to prevent the loss of character of the area. So, if you’re thinking about a house extension, always contact your local conservation officer first.

19. How Will my Extension Design Affect my Home's Privacy?

If your house is exposed to passersby or to neighbours, you'll need to consider your glazing choice.

One solution would be to consider your boundary treatments, which may need to be adapted to ensure privacy is maintained, while integral screens in your glazing provide privacy without spoiling your view.

20. Can I Remove Trees for my House Extension?

Some trees are protected by Tree Preservation Orders (TPOs). Even if house extensions don’t require planning permission you cannot alter or even prune a tree that has a TPO on it without planning permission.

All trees within a Conservation Area are protected by legislation and effectively have a TPO on them providing they have a trunk of diameter greater than 75mm. Altering a tree that is protected by a TPO is a criminal offence and can result in substantial fines so take care if you are extending your home near to a protected tree.

21. How Much Should I Save for a Contingency Budget?

A healthy contingency to cover any unexpected costs — the start of work on an extension project can uncover problems with the existing house that need addressing, for instance.

We recommend a contingency of somewhere between 10-20%.

22. Can I Claim VAT Relief on a House Extension?

Most house extensions will be subject to VAT on labour and materials at the standard rate of 20%, especially if you use a contractor to undertake the work. If you use local trade­smen who are not VAT registered you can save the 20% VAT on their labour, but you will still have to pay VAT on materials at the standard rate.

Some extension projects are eligible for VAT relief, such as work to listed buildings (zero rated), the conversion of an existing dwelling that changes the number of units (reduced rate of 5%) and work to a building that has been unoccupied for at least two years (reduced rate of 5%).

To benefit from reclaiming VAT if you are extending a listed building or renovating an unoccupied home, you must use a VAT-registered builder — you cannot reclaim the VAT yourself.

23. Do I Need to Notify Building Control of my House Extension?

Before any works begin, you will need to submit either a building notice or a full plans application to building control. A building notice will allow work to begin quickly, but you will lack the protection that building control has signed off on the design and you are liable to correct any work that fails to meet Building Regs’ standards upon inspection.

24. Is my new Glazing Going to Cause Glare or Overheating?

Though bringing more light into a home is often a desired outcome of an extension project, unmanaged light ingress can create problems such as overheating associated with solar gain.

Designers should be aware of this when designing glazing features into an extension and mitigate for the solar gain to avoid the situation where, like poorly designed conservatories, the extra space is usable for only a small part of the year. Screen fabrics can also be used to reduce glare and diffuse light.

25. How Much Glazing can I add to my House Extension? 

“Part L of the Building Regulations limits the total area of glazed elements in an extension to a maximum of 25% of the extension’s floor area,” says Jason Orme, experienced extender and H&R’s Editorial Director.

“Particularly on small extensions, this poses a problem. A small kitchen extension, perhaps adding 20m² of space, could easily have its allowance taken up by a set of bifolds – 4m(W) x 1.8m(H) = 7.2m² or 36% of the floor area – and will therefore be rejected by building control.

“There are several ways around this. First of all, you need to deduct the total area of the windows and doors that are being lost as part of the extension from your additional total. If that doesn’t get you below 25%, then you’ll need to show that the new glazed extension can meet the energy performance standards achieved by a non-glazed extension in other ways.

“If that still fails, then you’ll need to commission a SAP assessment to show that the CO2 emission rate from your glazed extension would be no greater than the emission from a fully compliant extension of the same size.”

Use our Extension Cost Calculator to get an idea of your costs.

At the beginning of a project you’re always brimming with enthusiasm, the sky’s the limit and you are blind to what lies ahead. Going into a self build is no different. The early stages of learning, plotting and planning are perhaps the most exciting — the pressure is off and you can gradually get your head around the task in hand. 

However, as you go through the project, you will need to have a clear idea of what you want and how to get it. All the resources we're about to share have value, but probably they have their greatest worth at the beginning of the project when key decisions should be made.

When it comes to absorbing information, different people learn in different ways, whether that’s by listening, reading or watching videos — whatever works for you. It’s worth remembering, though, that you don’t need to know everything and get involved with everything. You need to see the big picture, be good at asking questions, listening, evaluating information, making a decision and moving on.

Along your journey it’s good to be aware that some will have a vested interest in trying to sell you something. So with all that in mind, here’s our guide to the go-to resources for information, advice and ideas for embarking on your self-build project. Before getting started on your self build project, a huge amount of of careful planning and preparation is required — not only to help keep a handle on your build costs and make the right decisions for your project, but also to avoid unnecessary stress and changes mid-way through.

It can be daunting to take on such an ambitious project, especially if you've never done it before, but fortunately there are numerous resources, covering all aspects of the build process, available to help you push on with your project — and here we explain all the resources to be aware of in order to get your project off the ground and running smoothly.

1. Open days and site visits

It surprises me how many people will spend hundreds of thousands of pounds on building a home without actually visiting a few first — including some that are similar in style. We are shaped by the homes in which we live but a lot of them are old, crudely constructed or have little architectural merit. So get out from behind the tablet or laptop and visit some houses. There will probably be a few ‘open house’ events near you during the year, organised by local community groups or by self-build package companies. If not, search further afield and make a weekend of it.

Regular fixtures include the Passivhaus open days that are held worldwide twice a year where homeowners throw open their doors. It’s not always about going to see buildings you absolutely love but trying to stay open-minded and curious. 

Being issued with floorplans of the houses is really useful for getting to grips with what space you need. 

Perhaps there are people in your area building right now. Pluck up the courage to speak to them. Normally a site or house visit will trigger a hundred questions. Self builders love helping the ‘next generation’ and will be open about what’s gone on. 

2. Specialist websites and magazines

This may seem like stating the obvious because you’re probably already doing this now, but are you making the most of it? Get a subscription in those early days when you have most time. You have the benefit of a team that is targeting you. Their remit is to write about every possible aspect that you may encounter. After a decade of doing this, I can assure you there are a lot of angles and issues to find out about. A great place to start is to arm yourself with a stack of magazines, like Homebuilding & Renovating (you can check out our subscription offers here), that are packed full of information, inspiration and contacts to set you on the right path when it comes to building your home.

Not only are magazines essential for growing your own knowledge base, but they will often spark ideas that may never have occurred to you.

3. Exhibitions and shows

What you get from a self build show depends largely on where you are in the process. Initially, I would recommend going for the seminars that will give you a good grounding in the key areas. Coming to those same shows later in the process you may feel that you know a lot of what the seminars taught and now have a specific question for an expert or are hunting down a supplier. We buy so many products online these days, that it can be invaluable to view them in person.

The expert advice on offer at exhibitions such as the Homebuilding & Renovating Show, is invaluable to self builders and renovators. 

You'll be able to browse the latest products and receive independent expert advice at the Advice Centre.

In addition to the Homebuilding & Renovating Shows that come to your local area, there’s a permanent exhibition centre in Swindon that is worth a visit — The National Self Build & Renovation Centre. 

Sometimes it can be hard to get your head around what’s going on with the foundations or how different construction systems come together,  so there’s a particularly useful section that displays models of all these things and more. Getting a guided tour will mean you don’t miss any of the detail.

4. Television programmes

Virtually nobody in the construction world will recommend watching Grand Designs as an educational resource, so why am I? Firstly, there comes a time of day when you’re probably winding down for bed — instead of watching the latest box set, why not tune into something that might come in useful! People always say Grand Designs focuses on crises, which never happen on a normal self build, but in my experience, many self builds have underlying drama, whether or not people want to talk about it or dwell on it. Drama aside, shows such as this will show you all the build systems, go through every possible thing that could ever happen and give you a second sense for when things go wrong and why they go wrong. 

5. Online forums and social media

It can be a lonely existence as a self builder. Speak to a professional and you’re never sure whether they are in the process of trying to sell you something! That’s why surrounding yourself with like-minded people is a welcome respite. One of the main destinations is BuildHub. It’s UK-based and has knowledgeable moderators. As with any forum, you might think you’re the first person to ask a particular question when, in fact, you’re almost certainly not. 

There are many groups on Facebook that seem to work well, too. The only problem is the spammers. Whether it’s advertising a piece of land, a build system or professional services, you may have to wade through a number of posts to get to the bit you want. YouTube is excellent for specific things if you are taking a DIY approach. Someone has always got there first and made a tutorial about it. Again these are often moderated, this time by the comments below.

For me, I feel most at home on Twitter. There are lots of industry professionals on there who don’t seem to be selling as much, but are ripe for intercepting. You can follow the people that you gel with or search around a given word. The content
is always bite-size, which makes it quick and can provide you
with ideas to explore.

6. The Housebuilder's Bible

There are lots of books about building a house but few hit the mark in the same way that the Housebuilder’s Bible by Mark Brinkley does. This is because Mark Brinkley has lived and breathed this subject for decades, and developed and revised his book many times. Other than understanding how all the pieces fit together, his benchmark house illustrates how simplicity will always keep your costs down. 

Housebuilding can be a dry subject at times but Mark allows his sense of humour to shine through, which can make you laugh out loud at some of the ridiculous practices that go on in construction. Somehow, it’s a book you can read in one go as well as a reference manual. He also includes costs, which is a godsend for us but a chore for him as he must have to laboriously update all the figures and republish every couple of years. But it’s one more reason this is such a useful companion on your self-build journey and a book I often recommend.

7. Right to Build register

As part of the Housing and Planning Act 2016, local authorities are now required to help find land for those interested in building their own homes. This legislation is known as the Right to Build.

If you’re interested in building your own home, make sure you register your interest with your local authority. 

8. Industry events

I probably wouldn’t be where I am today if I wasn’t drawn to some industry events. For me it was green building organisations (AECB, ASBP, Passivhaus Trust and Green Register). I would just hear the names crop up one time too many and wonder what was happening at their conferences and online events. Yes, you have to get used to people wondering why you’re there and some of the content may well go over your head, but these are excellent places to learn and they are often at the vanguard of what can be achieved. It’s also a stress-free environment to chat with building professionals. It may also provide you with useful contacts. So if you find yourself naturally drawn into an area of building, keeping your ear to the ground and attending industry events could be a really smart move. 

9. Planning Portal

You’ll need planning permission if you’re going to build your own home, but there are some exemptions under permitted development if you are renovating or extending.

You’ll find everything you need to know about planning permission (as well as all relevant documentation) on the Planning Portal site. 

10. Land finding services

The notion that there is lack of available land on which to build can often put off potential self builders from going ahead with their project. But there may be more land available than you may think. 

You might not find an abundance of virgin plots in your local area, but there could be opportunity to develop a brownfield site, or you may find an existing property where it makes more financial sense to demolish and replace rather than renovate.  

A great place to start is Homebuilding & Renovating's own land finding service: plotfinder.net, which gives you access to more than 10,000 plots and development opportunities for only £5 a month. Not only is there a range of plot types as well as conversions and renovation projects, there's also the option to sign up for a newsletter that delivers a roundup of the best projects coming to market in the UK to your inbox each week.

These services will not only highlight where land and renovation opportunities are available, but will also give you an idea of the price you can expect to pay in your chosen area.

11. Build cost calculator

This free Build Cost Calculator will help you to estimate your build costs, taking into account the kind of house you’d like to build, where you want to build it and how involved you want to be in the process.

Understanding how much a build such as the one you have in mind is likely to cost is going to be hugely useful before you meet with finance providers. 

12. Self build mortgages

Getting to grips with how self build mortgages work is not only essential for working out what kind of funds will be available to you but lenders can also be a useful source of information. 

"Unlike a traditional residential mortgage where a single advance is generally made on completion of purchase, self build mortgage payments are released in stages," explains Daniel Capstick, mortgage manager at Ecology Building Society.

13. How-to guides

Learning the techniques behind some building work will be particularly useful if you’re looking to do some or most of your self build yourself, or are after ways of reducing your costs.

You might like to pay a visit to our YouTube channel for a series of informative how-to videos, including step-by-step guides on topics such as how to insulate your loft and top tips for plastering.

14. NaCSBA

If you aren't familiar with NaCSBA – The National Custom and Self Build Association – then now is the time to find out a bit more about them. NaCSBA aims to promote self build and custom build as a significant form of home building in the UK. NaCSBA also produces The Self Build Portal which is full of useful information on a variety of self build areas.

15. Specialist insurance and warranties

Don't forget that a self build or renovation project requires a different kind of insurance to protect homeowners than just your regular home insurance. 

The right kind of insurance is a must when it comes to building your own home and it is essential to spend time looking into self build insurance. Homebuilding & Renovating has partnered with leading insurance specialist Self Build Zone to provide bespoke solutions at market-leading rates for its readers.

16. The Planning Hub

The Planning Hub is an online resource that will help you understand how to get to grips with complex planning rules.

Once you’re signed in, you can access easy-to-read guides written by Homebuilding & Renovating's planning experts, which will provide you with key information to help you obtain planning permission.  

17. Help to Build

The Help to Build scheme was launched in 2021 and was designed to make it more affordable and realistic for more people to self build their home. 

The set-up of Help to Build requires you to have a self build mortgage to help pay for land and set-up costs, and your lender will release funds to you at various stages of the build. However, you'll then get your equity loan and start to pay fees for it after you’ve built your home.  

Richard Bacon MP, a member of the Right to Build Task Force, says the scheme “could open up a range of opportunities” for self builders. 

18. RIBA

The Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA) is the professional body for architects — you can use their search function to find a RIBA-approved architect in your area.

19. CIAT

The Chartered Institute of Architectural Technologists (CIAT) is the qualifying body for architectural technology – you can make use of their search function to find an architectural technologist near you.

20. Oak frame show homes

If you’re thinking about building an oak frame home, take the opportunity to stay overnight in a fully functional show home courtesy of Oakwrights to get a sense of the end result you could achieve.

Other well-known oak frame specialists, such as Border Oak, also hold open days and it is well worth a visit to Potton's Show Centre too, where you can get a real sense of the design, as well as finding loads of ideas for your own project. 

If you find it challenging to visualise a design having just seen it on paper, visiting show homes will be exceptionally useful for you. 

21. Federation of Master Builders (FMB)

The Federation of Master Builders (FMB) can be a very useful source of information as well as lending a helping hand when it comes to find a builder. 

Their website has a useful 'find a builder tool' which allows you to search for trusted builders and other trades in your area. 

22. Trade review sites

One of the most stressful tasks at the beginning of a project is finding the right team to work on your project and bring your ideas to life. Thankfully, along with getting personal, trusted recommendations, there are trade review sites that can help. 

Have browse on Checkatrade, MyBuilder and Rated People. Many of these sites feature reviews from previous clients to help you find a reliable tradesperson to help with your project.

Tiny houses are the textbook definition of good things coming in small packages. Part self build, part caravan, tiny houses offer a modern alternative to getting on the housing ladder, offering a budget-friendly option for those who can commit to a compact, nomadic lifestyle. 

After all, tiny houses aren't just super small builds, they're part of a movement. The Tiny House Movement is a way of life which is especially popular over in the US, but with lifestyles shifting over here in the UK, you might find that tiny house living is the right fit for you now too. 

What are Tiny Houses? 

Tiny houses are about more than just the size of the home you live in. The Tiny House Movement is an ethos that focuses on a particular kind of build — one that is low-cost and mobile, yet well equipped. 

"When you live 'tiny', you strip back what you need, live minimally, but not poorly - quite the opposite," explains Dane Smith-Burchnell, Director of the Tiny Housing Co. "You have everything that works for you, rather than living with a house which isn't well designed, insulated or suitable for your needs. Tiny living, allows you to live freer, able to move about if you wish and to save more money for things that matter."

While most tiny houses are around 20-25m2, anything under 50m2 and moveable might be considered a tiny house. You'll need to consider the legalities of the size of your tiny house on the roads too. 

Are all Tiny Houses on Wheels?

Part of the attraction of a tiny house is not only the freedom that comes with the house being mobile, but also the ability to circumvent some regulations on where they can be placed. 

"With the labour market being global, and very fluid in the UK, people have to move very often, so with a movable tiny house, they can move the house to their new job, or simply, work from home if needed in the countryside or somewhere more appealing," says Dane. "The downside is, there needs to be a place to put the house, which is the hardest part about tiny living."

There are also considerations that need to be made to ensure that your mobile tiny house is road legal. It can't, for example, be more than 2.55m wide, but weight restrictions also apply. Also, if you only have a standard driving license, you won't be able to drive a tiny house that is more than 7 metres long. This will require a category C1E license, however this is relatively easy to achieve. 

However, if the mobile nature of a tiny house isn't as important to you as the size, you'll be able to find many companies who specialise in micro builds with extremely small but efficient footprints, which can either be built anchored with building foundations or as a more mobile, but maybe not on wheels, cabin style home. 

(MORE: A Gallery of Small Homes, all Under 100m2)

Where can I put a Tiny House?

Here, as with anything that involves planning permission, is where it gets a bit tricky. 

You are able to keep a tiny house on your existing property if it falls with the maximum size of a caravan (19.8m x 6.7m), as it will be counted as such. However, for this to be applicable, you'll also not be able to use it as a stand alone dwelling, only as 'additional living space', according to the Tiny Housing Co. 

If purchasing land for the home, or where using the tiny house as the main or a separate dwelling, you'll require planning permission as with any other development. 

Other options for placing your tiny house include caravan parks and park home sites. You may also be able to pitch your tiny house on plots of land on farms, under a planning loophole that allows for separate dwellings for farmers under Permitted Development. If you're not a farm owner, you may be able to find a farmer who is happy for the extra income for using the plot. 

What are the Advantages of Tiny Houses?

There are many benefits to the idea of a tiny house, especially for those who don't require a geographical tie to the same degree (ie. working from home). 

These include:

• More affordable than traditional housing
• No mortgage
• Eco home living as less energy to heat and less materials to build 
• Can be off-grid 

How Much do Tiny Houses Cost?

Tiny houses cost around 20% of the cost of an average home. Most tiny houses range from £50,000-£65,000, but can be more expensive depending on the design, final specification and the level of solar panels and batteries provided. 

(MORE: How Much Does it Cost to Build a House?)

Can you get a Mortgage on a Tiny House?

No, mortgages are only for buildings that are tied to the land. Therefore, tiny houses can only be financed with savings, personal loans or commercial loans.

How do I Heat and Power a Tiny House? 

Mobile tiny houses are perfectly suited to off-grid living. Electricity is best generated with a well-specified array of solar PV panels; however, using solar PV to then heat water through a separate hot water heater isn't as efficient as also employing solar thermal panels or hybrid solar panels for you hot water needs. 

Solar batteries are also an important addition to a photovoltaic solar array for a tiny house, allowing you to store electricity generated. However, these can be heavy and space-consuming, so this should be considered as a key part of your tiny house design. 

A tiny house should be well-insulated, far better than a standard mobile home, but they still require heating. Electric radiators and underfloor heating are common choices for efficiency, while freestanding heaters have the benefit on not needing to be installed, so they can be moved around the space as required. 

It's not uncommon to see a log burning stove or multi-fuel stove installed in a tiny house also, giving options for heating the space especially in the colder winter months when solar PV panels provide less power. 

Planning a kitchen can be nerve-wracking — after all, it’s often one of the largest expenses when renovating a house, and so getting a kitchen design right can feel like a daunting prospect. 

There are some key considerations that it’s important to know to get the most from the process, and these may be elements you’ve never considered if you’ve not undertaken a kitchen renovation before. 

In this guide, we’ll focus on the planning process — that is, what you need to consider while designing your space (whether you’re working with a kitchen designer or not) to ensure you get the most from your final design. 

Is Planning a Kitchen Yourself Possible?

In some cases, planning a kitchen yourself is completely possible. This is more likely to be an option when buying from a budget retailer who offers off-the-shelf elements that can be purchased separately. The question is: do you really need to design the kitchen yourself?

Kitchen designers don’t usually represent an additional cost to the project, and kitchen designers in particular have expertise in selecting the best arrangement of kitchen units to make the most of your kitchen layout. This will ensure your internal storage functions as efficiently as possible, using the right kinds of shelving, pull out units and cabinet finishes to make your kitchen easier to use. 

If you’re not interiors-minded, a kitchen designer will also be able to interpret your brief in terms of styles, colours and finishes too, but if you’re more confident in your style, a kitchen designer can be more of a guiding hand than dictating choices to you. 

You may find when working with a design and build company or an architect, that they’re willing and able to design your kitchen too. In this instance, it may be up to you to express your requirements when it comes to storage in more detail. 

Planning a Kitchen Using 3D Modelling Software 

There are plenty of home design apps available that can be used to help your plan your kitchen, and many of the well-known high street kitchen brands have online planner tools you can play around with before you’ve even booked an appointment with a kitchen designer, from B&Q to IKEA, Wren to Magnet. 

While this can be handy to get an idea of a layout that will work for you, bear in mind that your kitchen designer’s software will likely be more advanced, while a better knowledge of the scope of a kitchen retailer’s options, which can make the design process easier. 

Planning a Kitchen With a Kitchen Designer

How to Find a Kitchen Designer 

Finding the right kitchen designer will depend on a few criteria. First and foremost, it’s a case of identifying the kitchen maker/manufacturer you want to work with. This may depend on the styles and ranges these retailers are known for, a particular material you’re keen to use, as well as practical considerations like budget. 

There’s sure to be a huge number of kitchen retailers in your local area, and be sure to take stock of smaller independent retailers alongside national brands and chains. Just because they appear more boutique, doesn’t necessarily mean the price is going to be higher. 

Scope out their websites, as well as their tagged pictures on social media. Some brands don’t always showcase finished client kitchens, but this can give you a better idea of how their kitchen designs play out in the real world. 

Many kitchen showrooms are offering virtual design appointments now, even if just for an initial consultation, but it’s important to get into a physical showroom to see the quality of the units in person before you decide. 

Visiting a showroom also gives you an opportunity to scope out the kitchen designers working there. Having the right rapport with your designer is important, ensuring your needs and concerns are heard and that you feel confident to work with them to make the right decision for you. If you’re automatically assigned a designer, it’s fine to explore your options — everyone has a different way of working, and some may be more suited to your point of view than others. 

How to Create a Kitchen Design Brief

Entering a design consultation with no ideas at all is a bad idea, but likewise, heading into a session with a kitchen designer unwilling to bend on your ideas will limit the outcome of your final design. 

The first step in creating a design brief is to take stock of your existing kitchen. What works well for you in the kitchen and what doesn’t? What do you wish you had storage space for? What do you want to be able to use the space for in an ideal world? Don’t forget to ask the rest of your family too, as they use the space too. 

If you’re purchasing a kitchen as a couple, it’s a good idea to talk through your ideas before you get to your design session, so that you can make sure you’re both on the same page, giving the designer the clearest brief of what you’re looking for. 

Using Pinterest boards is a great way to bring together inspirational images, while tearing out pages from your favourite magazines to take along is also a great idea. You don’t need to have made firm decisions on anything before you give a brief to a designer, but a general point in the right direction is a good place to start. 

Some kitchen companies will have your kitchen professionally measured by their teams, while others will rely on you to take the measurements. It’s likely you’ll have to supply these for your first meeting, and don’t forget to take images of the existing space, and any plans, drawings or renders of the new space if you’re undergoing re-modelling. 

Get Samples and Create a Moodboard 

Creating a moodboard isn’t so much about having pictures and samples stuck down to an actual board as it is about having your samples all together in the space they’re going to be in. In a kitchen showroom, you’re only seeing colours and materials in one certain light — and often this is largely artificial. Without the ability to look at samples of the kitchen doors in your actual space, for example, you might be in for a nasty surprise when the kitchen is actually delivered. 

Depending on your room’s facing and the amount of natural light it receives, you might find a colour is too weak or too dominant, or certain hues are pulled out of the colour that didn’t exist when you saw them in a showroom, changing the whole feel of the kitchen. If the kitchen retailer doesn’t offer samples as standard, investigate whether this would be possible. 

Having all your samples together also gives you the opportunity to see how they stand against each other, ensuring the tones and textures are right and that there won’t be any clashes. 

Creating a Budget When Planning a Kitchen

How to Decide on a Budget for Your New Kitchen

Realistically, there’s a kitchen for almost any budget, but it’s worth getting an idea of the average costs for different kinds of kitchen so you know what kind of route to take with your new space. 

Budget brands can mean you can get a cheap kitchen for several thousand pounds, especially if you take on fitting a kitchen on a DIY basis. However, your choice in cabinetry will be much more limited, and it will be more difficult to get your kitchen functioning at its very best without the benefits that choosing a bespoke kitchen allows. 

(MORE: How Much Does a New Kitchen Cost? Find out With our Price Guide)

The first step to working out a budget is to look at what you can afford. Setting a maximum spend limit is important so you don’t get carried away with yourself. A new kitchen may offer a good return on investment for the right property too, so get advice from an estate agent if this is important to you, and be mindful of price ceilings in your area. 

Once you have your limits, you need to make a list of all the things that you need for your kitchen. If you’re working with a kitchen retailer, they may offer you kitchen units, worktops, taps, appliances and more, but there may be some elements not included. Be sure to factor in electrician and plumber costs, for example, alongside the likes of furniture, lighting, flooring, tiles and door and windows, if required. 

Once you have a list of items, you can start to break down your budget into the different areas, using your quotes from the kitchen company to start balancing the books to ensure your project comes in under budget. 

How to Save Money on Your Kitchen Design 

When trying to renovate on a budget, there are certain areas in which it’s worthwhile making more economical choices, and others where skimping will prove a false economy in the long run. Here’s our guide on where to spend and where to save:

Spend

• Kitchen units: While budget kitchen units may look attractive, a solid, sturdy unit will mean that a kitchen is more likely to last longer. Consider durable real wood doors that can be sanded and repainted in the future, as something as simple as painting kitchen cabinets can make it feel like you’ve got a whole new kitchen again. 
• Appliances: When it comes to appliances, you should spend on the oven and hob especially. After all, these are the appliances you'll use to cook everyday. If you need to save on appliances, a cheaper washing machine or dishwasher is probably the best option. 
• Storage: Integrated storage provided by your kitchen company is worth investing, or else you may find that your cupboards don't work efficiently in storing as much as you need. 

(MORE: What are the Best Integrated Dishwashers?)

Save

• Worktops: While it’s true that strong, durable worktops are worth investing in, some of the best kitchen worktops such as quartz and granite are also incredibly expensive. Investigate some alternatives, from quartz veneer worktops, such as Maxtop Quartz, which reduces the amount of quartz used with a clever honeycomb centre (also reducing the price), to other solid materials such as Bushboard, which can still be cut to offer draining grooves and inset sinks. Think about combining materials, such as more budget-friendly wood to ensure you’re only using the expensive material where you need to. 
• Tiles and flooring: Because of the nature of kitchen flooring, you won't want to be forking out for expensive solid timber anyway. Consider more budget friendly options to keep the price down, as many laminates and LVTs are surprisingly affordable in this day and age. 
• Sink: The best kitchen sink isn't always the most expensive. While a beautiful moulded sink or ceramic sink may look impressive, a cheaper stainless steel sink will hold up to the demands of a busy kitchen just as well. 

Other Elements to Consider When Planning a Kitchen

Consider Lighting Early on When Planning a Kitchen  

Lighting isn't something most kitchen designers will source and include as part of your design, but they may make suggestions of how and where lighting should be located. Either way, it's important to have a think about kitchen lighting ideas when you have your kitchen plan, but before work commences. 

This is especially important when it comes to recessed spot lighting, ensuring that they're located in the right place to provide effective task lighting. Consider whether you'll need extra wall lights, or even table lamps/floor lamps, as this will need to be considered when planning the electrics for the space. 

What to Consider When Choosing Appliances 

As well as the functionality of your appliances, it's also worth considering elements such as the energy rating (bearing in mind that these have just changed — what was once a highly efficient A+++ rating, may only be a D, E or F in the new system), alongside how noisy they are. 

In general, appliances less than 60db are suitable for open plan spaces, but the quieter the better. Otherwise you may find yourself unable to use your open plan kitchen space to relax or work while the washing machine or dishwasher are running. 

What is the Order of Works for Installing a New Kitchen

By knowing the order of works of a kitchen, you can make plans as to when certain decisions need to be made and when certain materials need to be on site. 

• Phase 1: Remove wall units, worktop and base units. Remove flooring
• Phase 2: First fix electrics. Reroute plumbing
• Phase 3: Lay new flooring
• Phase 4: Install wall units and base units
• Phase 5: Second fix electrics
• Phase 6: Fit worktop. Fit sink and complete plumbing to taps, drains and appliances
• Phase 7: Install appliances and fit extractor fan
• Phase 8: Tile and decorate

Whether you’re project managing your own self-build or hiring someone else to do the job for you, you still need to be able to oversee the process of building a house. If you’re in the position of being the client, you’ll still want the confidence to liaise with the build team and know you’re getting the best results.

If you’re acting as a project manager, it’s even more crucial to be clear on the stages ahead of you as you’ll need to make sure materials arrive on time, and trades are on site when needed.

So what are the steps to building a house and how can you make the process as smooth as possible?

Building a house: Do the pre and post weathertight stages take equal time?

The construction process of a self build is broken down into two distinct elements – pre and post weathertight stage (this is also called ‘getting a house to shell’). A house is deemed to be ‘weathertight’ (sometimes also called ‘watertight’) when the walls are up, the roof is on, the windows and doors are in and it’s all fully lockable – and, from the outside, resembles a finished house.

However there’s not a 50:50 split in terms of the time it takes to complete each stage.

“The time for each phase is largely dependent on the build and the materials which are being used,” says Charlie Avara, founder of Build by Charlie, “but generally speaking, the fitting out post watertight takes longer.

“Building the shell and core (foundations, walls, structure, roof) is a relatively quick process,” she explains, noting however that hold ups can occur when it comes to glazing.

“Another factor that means fitting out post water-tight takes longer is because there are more trades and materials to coordinate,” says Charlie. “Drying times for screeds and plaster have to be factored in, materials need to be selected, purchased and delivered, and there is a very clear order in which the works need to take place.”

In total, you can expect a house to go from ‘breaking ground’ (the traditional start of a project where the trenches are dug for the foundations) to moving in over a period of six and 12 months. At extreme ends, some timber frame package companies claim to be able to get a house ready and liveable within six months. Many DIY self-builders take upwards of three years.

However, regardless of the total time it takes to build a house, the stages will follow a common route to completion. Our guide to custom builds demonstrates how this may vary if you’re building off-site, using a timber frame, SIPS or unusual finishes, but for the purpose of giving you some insight into building a house, this article follows the process for a traditional block and brick structure with a tiled roof.

1. Site preparation

Assuming you have bought your plot and all of your planning permission is in place, the first step when building a house is to prepare the site. This not only includes clearing the site of debris and vegetation, but also ensuring you have the necessary facilities and services set up for your tradespeople.

If you’re going to be undertaking a demolish and replace scheme whereby you’ll be removing an old property to make way for your new self-build, be prepared for some mixed emotions too, warns Charlie Avara. “The completion of the demolition always creates a buzz. It's incredibly impactful visually, and there is that ‘no going back’ feeling very early on, which can be exciting, albeit a bit scary too.”

With or without demolition, tasks taking place during this stage will include:

• Groundworkers creating site access
• Site cleared; stacking material to be retained out of the way
• Site hut set up and equipped with drawings and safety equipment
• Portable toilet delivered to site
• Secure lock-up/lorry container (hired in or purchased) positioned in place
• Water board bring supply to a stopcock on the boundary
• Plumber connects water standpipe
• Surveyor marks out building on cleared site and transfers the lines to profiles well clear of any construction work
• Bricks and blocks brought in ready and stacked clear of future construction
• Cement store and sand heap established and mixer set up

2. Laying foundations

The cost of constructing foundations is one of the biggest variables in a self-build project, so in order to keep control of your budget and schedule, you’ll need to make sure the most appropriate types of foundation are chosen early on.

A solution will be chosen based on both your build and the soil type you’re working with. The best way of establishing this is with a geotechnical study which involves digging or boring trial holes around the site of a proposed new building.

As this will likely have been determined during the planning and building regulations stage, the actual physical steps on site will involve the actual excavation of the foundations, along with positioning of any additional materials such as reinforcement bars or mesh, laying membranes and ducting for services and then pouring the concrete in place to the desired level.

Once approval has been obtained from building and warranty inspectors, your builder will then move onto bringing the foundation blockwork up to damp-proof course level along with installing any air vents and drainage exit lintels. Any cavities will be filled to ground level with more concrete and your damp-proof courses will be bedded in, along with any radon membranes or barriers.

3. Building the superstructure

Getting underway with the superstructure is an exciting part of building a house but what’s vitally important at this stage is to make sure everyone knows the points at which you will need sign off from a building inspector. You’ll want to mitigate delays at all costs, so knowing in advance when you need them to turn up will help to avoid work grinding to a halt.

With the foundations in place, creating what’s known in the trade as the ‘superstructure’ – essentially the main fabric of your building – is the stage when things really start to forge ahead.

Again, while each build will be slightly different depending on your construction method, and the number of floors you are building, for a standard two storey building, you can expect it to include these key events.

Phase one - Ground level tasks

• Groundworkers dig service trenches and lay pipes and ducts to proposed stopcock/meter positions
• Concrete floor beams loaded to each bay and position
• Drainage and vent pipes installed proud of the oversite
• Floor beams infilled with blocks
• Coursing blocks laid and ventilation grilles positioned
• Grout brushed
• Building control/warranty inspection

Phase two - building the walls and forming window and door openings

If you are building with masonry, whereby bricklayers will be building the walls, forming the cavities, incorporating the DPCs, lintels, cavity trays, will ties, insulation, restraint straps, air vents, fire barriers and window and door openings, this is all work you will see taking place on site.

However, if you are using a timber frame construction, be that an oak frame or structural insulated panels (SIPs), some of this stage will take place of-site, perhaps giving you the sense that when the walls do arrive, they seem to go up quicker than a more traditional brick and block method.

One thing that is key to note at this stage is the potential issue if you are ordering bespoke glazing of any kind.

“If any glazing items are bespoke, then they cannot be fully accurately measured until the structural openings are formed,” says Charlie Avara. “It's then down to the manufacturing lead times as to how quickly these can be delivered to site, and these can often run to three months or more.

“To mitigate this, it’s possible to order the glazing elements off the plans, and then form the structural openings accordingly. However, there are obvious risks to this including sizing errors,” she warns, “but it can help to cut the time significantly.”

With the walls started and openings formed, it will also be the point at which you see the first lift of scaffolding installed, so make sure you have budgeted for the most up to date scaffolding costs and agreed the terms of hire.

Other typical jobs you can expect to see taking place during this stage include:

• Work on any chimneys
• Lintels, including fireplace lintels bedded and installed
• Flue liners installed
• Meter boxes for gas and electricity built in
• Electrician installing temporary consumer unit within electricity meter box, followed by your electricity provider adding the meter and connecting it
• Service suppliers carry out any necessary work to the boundary
• Plumber rerouting water supply to stopcock position
• Second scaffolding lift added
• Crane arranged to lift first floor beams onto each bay and position (if required)
• Plasterboard batten clips positioned
• Infill blocks laid
• Grout brushed

Phase three - building up to the wallplate in preparation for the roof

As the superstructure heads closer to the roof, more scaffolding will be needed to provide safe access for your build team. This will include adding the third and fourth lifts, as well as additional lifts at any gable ends.

In addition, the following will take place:

• Wallplate scarfed (i.e. joints joined together, bedded and tied down with proprietary wallplate straps
• Gable ends built
• End trusses added as templates
• Chimneys completed – including lead flashings, trays and skirts to chimney ends, vent pipes, chimney pot added and flashing skirts added and all flashings pointed

4. Building the roof and ‘topping out’

Whether you’re building an extension or a house, adding the roof feels like a monumental stage in the build process. It’s the point at which you really see the exterior of your home take shape. Getting to the highest point of the roof build is historically marked with a ‘topping out’ ceremony – or as it was the case when I built an extension, a good reason for me to buy the team a crate of beer which they enjoyed while safely sat on the roof (it was only a single storey I hasten to add).

Practically, the team will be involved in tasks such as slinging roof trusses and fixing them to the wallplate, fixing binders and braces at node points, constructing any dormers, adding fascias and soffits. Ventilation grilles will need to be fitted and it’s likely you will receive a visit from building control (or a private inspector if you’ve hired one.) Any self-build warranty may require another inspection at this stage too.

Charlie Avara’s top tip for this stage? “If you are planning on having bespoke rooflights, then you should order these well in advance of the roof framing, so they are ready to be delivered when required.

“Off the shelf options can be purchased closer to the time they are needed for installation,” she says, “but projects can be significantly delayed if bespoke roof glazing hasn’t been factored in.”

Adding the roof covering

The relief of getting to the stage where you can cover the roof means that once it’s on, you will finally be watertight. Even if glazing still isn't in situ, you can cover window and door openings with tarpaulin and plastic – which may not be 100% secure, but will at least offer some protection from the elements.

If you’ve opted for a traditional tile or slate covering, your roofers will be cutting and laying undercloaking to the verges, adding felt and battens, laying tiles or slates including to ridges and hips, adding roof valleys, flashings, skirtings and then ensuring any fascias, soffits and barges are decorated or stained if required.

Outside, you’ll also see guttering and downpipes added and connected to mains drainage, upstand and gullies installed, external joinery for windows and doors, and potentially the external wall decoration such as house rendering.

Scaffolding will finally come down giving you a much clearer view of how your home looks to the outside world, while inside, carpenters will have started work on fitting door linings, building any studwork partitioning and fixing window boards. They’ll also fix plasterboard noggins, box in vent pipes and fix your loft trap in preparation for the electricians and plumbers to start the next stage.

5. First fix

If you’ve left it until now to decide on your lighting design, I’m sorry to say you’re behind schedule. These ideally need deciding when your plans are being drawn up, as no-one wants to channel out a freshly plastered wall in a few weeks' time when you’ve realised you forgot to add wall lights.

And, although this next stage is essential, it can also be the one where you need the most patience, says Charlie Avara.

“The middle phase can seem long and laborious for the client. It’s the critical first fix phase in the project where all the infrastructure is installed i.e. wiring and plumbing, insulation and sheeting, takes place, but this phase takes time,” she says. “However, it can sometimes feel like no progress is being made as the visual impact is minimal.”

This step sees the electrical and plumbing runs put in place and it’s important that each trade is allowed to get their jobs done so that the next ones can move on site. The plasterers can’t work at the same time as the initial electrics are being done, for instance – which tends to mean that it’s this element of the process that can drag on a bit.

Plumbers will be busy on site installing the hot, cold and waste plumbing throughout and if you’re having wet underfloor heating, they’ll be adding floor membrane and insulation, taping joints and sealing up to the damp proof course and then laying the underfloor hoops on the floor and to the manifold and outlet positions. After this, the floor screed will be pumped in, levelled and left to dry for around three days, after which it's advisable to cover it in hardboard or cardboard for protection.

Alternatively, if you’re opting for a gas boiler, they’ll be installing all the internal gas pipework and adding the meter.

Your electricians on other hand will be running all the necessary cabling to enable your lighting and power circuits to work and installing the backplates depending on the types of light switches and sockets you’ve chosen. Your permanent consumer unit will be installed and wiring will also be taken to external lighting points. TV and satellite cables will go in, along with the carcasses for any home entertainment, smart lighting systems and alarms.

On larger projects, be prepared to install metres of cabling. I recall pulling through and totting up the final amount of cables in my Grand Design project and being staggered by how much had gone into the property.

You’ll also need to ensure any specialist contractors for features such as smart systems are also working closely with the on-site electricians to avoid issues with cables being run too close to each other. For example, data transfer cables may experience interference if run too close to high voltage cables such as those needed to power hobs and ovens in a kitchen. And in general, check your plumbers and electricians are liaising on all cross bonding and earthing issues.

6. Drainage and external works

While work may be moving ahead inside, there are still external works that need to be completed, primarily involving your drainage runs, driveways and pathways. Outside, you should see the following taking place:

• Groundworkers dig the trenches for drainage runs
• Trenches backfilled to 150mm with pea shingle
• Drains laid to required falls
• Brick/concrete section manholes constructed, or purpose-made manholes, rodding eyes and gullies set in runs
• Building inspector approves laid drains
• Drains haunched over with pea shingle
• Work to connect to main sewer in road carried out by approved contractor
• Groundworkers commence driveways and pathways

7. Preparing ceilings and dry lining

Back inside, it’s time again to turn your attention to the interior with walls and ceilings the prime focus of attention, along with staircases.

Insulation will be added to your roof and walls, followed by external and blockwork walls being lined with plasterboard on dots and dabs, and internal walls being lined with plasterboard and plastered. Any studwork, pipe boxings and ceilings will all be tacked with plasterboard and any abutments of different materials jointed with mesh. Joints and angles will need to be filled and scrim taped in order for plasters to then skim coat all walls and ceilings.

If your carpenter has already cut your skirtings and architraves to size, make sure the backs of them have been painted or treated if necessary. Otherwise, the main focus of your carpenter at this stage will be to fit staircases, while you may still have your bricklayer on site to build any fireplaces or hearths.

8. Second fix

With walls and ceilings in place and plastered, it’s now time for your carpenter, plumber, electrician and other trades such as tilers and kitchen fitters to head back on site for the second fix stage.

“Now, the project really leaps forward as the finishing materials are installed,” says Charlie Avara. “The flooring, tiles, paint, and then the sanitary ware and cabinetry all come together and the client can see their vision come to life.”

Carpenters will be tasked with fitting skirtings and architrave, hanging internal doors, finishing the bottom step of your staircase and adding balustrading and handrails if not already in place, building bedroom and bathroom furniture if not being installed by a specialist company and likewise fitting your kitchen if not being undertaken by the company you have purchased your units from.

Plumbers will work on getting your boiler installed and connected, sinks will be plumbed in, earthed and cross bonded, sanitaryware will added to bathrooms, radiators and/or underfloor heating and towel rails fitted and connected, all pipework and connections will need to be flushed through and connected and the central heating put into test mode to check it is all functioning. The same test process applies for every heating system you have installed, be this an air source heat pump, biomass boiler or ground source heat pump.

Electricians will be responsible for connecting all wiring from electrical items to the consumer unit, installing lights, adding faceplates to sockets and switches, check cross bonding and earthing to all sanitaryware, sinks, radiators and appliances, making sure the boiler is wired and commissioned along with any room thermostats and controls and ensuring all electrical circuits are functioning as they should.

Additional trades who may be required on site during this time include:

• Tilers – floors and walls, making sure any baths are filled in order to allow them to settle before tilers fix any wall/splashback tiles
• Kitchen fitters and specialist worktop fitters
• Specialist floor covering installers such as micro-cement flooring or resin flooring

9. Decorating

If you’re using a package company or main contractor to build your house, you may choose to pick up the reins at this point and undertake the decorating tasks yourself.

Taking on these smaller tasks at the end of a building project is a good idea if you have gone over budget. (But as always, do only take on jobs that are within your capabilities. Otherwise you may end up paying a premium to get a professional to fix your mistake).

However, whether you are completing the work yourself or hiring a decorator, good preparation is key to getting the best end result.

Ensure all joinery is sealed internally and externally with mastic, make good any holes, blemishes or rough patches on walls and sand or rub down with wire wool, any internal timber before knotting it. Then, before any paint or finishes are applied, undertake the first (of many) builder’s cleans to remove all debris, dust and dirt from the site.

You or your decorators should apply a mist coat to your plastered walls followed by two coats of emulsion, priming, undercoating and applying top coats to internal timber or two coats of staining.

Finally carpets can be laid and protective floor covering put in place ready for furniture deliveries.

10. Landscaping

If the budget is tight, some self builders choose to have a bit of a break between completing the house and turning their attention to the landscaping.

But there are benefits to landscaping at the same time as building a house, says Charlie Avara. “If there is any structural work to be completed (excavations, retaining walls, etc), then you would want to incorporate this in the superstructure phase as well,” says Charlie Avara. “You will certainly want to be bringing all building materials, soil etc through the house before the finished floors are installed.”

While planting and turfing can certainly be completed at a later stage, it’s worth ensuring your budget has allocation for any hardscaping elements such as creating patios, boundaries and garden walls while tradespeople and equipment are still on site

Completing it before the build team moves off site, also means you can ensure any power and water pipes you’ve run for external features such as garden lighting ideas or ponds are installed and fully tested. Once you’ve moved in, it’s likely you’ll be keen to avoid seeing a tradesperson for a little while.

However, careful consideration about what you want and who will do the work is key. At a minimum, get your groundworkers to level the ground, remove any site storage, fencing and site cabin so you are left with a clear space to work with in the future.

If you’ve built on a new plot where there was no previous site access, you may need to liaise with your local authority to organise any bellmouth and kerbing to the road, in which case getting the hard landscaping for your driveway design completed will likely run in conjunction with this.

While the remainder of your front garden and rear garden ideas can be completed at a later stage using a landscape designer or on a DIY basis when budget and time permits – you will need to ensure that any external lighting cabling that’s been run in advance is capped and safely secured until needed.

11. Snagging and moving in

While it can be tempting to move in the minute the decorators lay down their paint brushes, leaving some time spare at the end of your schedule for the final tasks and the all important snagging can make moving in a more seamless process.

Even the small jobs such as removing labels from glass and appliances, taking out the packaging from cookers and fridges, getting your telephone line connected along with broadband, aerials and satellite dishes installed can all make a big difference.

And of course, having the house empty of people and furniture makes it far easier to comprehensively snag and make sure each trade completes their list of agreed jobs. Once you are living on site, it becomes harder to identify and prove smaller snags aren’t just general wear and tear.

A deep clean will also be necessary and something you’ll need to be prepared for in the weeks to come, as dust will likely continue to settle and you’ll find yourself repeating a deep clean more than once.

Finalising the legalities

As well as the physical tasks, there will also be some paperwork to complete and various bodies to inform. Meter readings will need to be submitted to service providers if your main contractor will be covering the costs of power and water during the build, your local authority will need to be informed of completion in order to arrange for a council tax valuation and your Energy Performance Certificate will need to be prepared for building control.

Final site visits will need to be made by your building inspector and warranty inspector so that completion certificates and warranties can be issued, and your self build site insurance policy will need to be switched to a homeowner’s policy.

Depending on how you’ve funded the costs for building a house, you may also need a final site inspection or valuation performed to release any remaining funds. It’s worth noting that you may also have to arrange for these during the build if you are on a staged release funding plan.

Charlie Avara’s final thoughts to bear in mind if you are building a house – be prepared for the ride.

“A project journey comes along in waves that flow towards the finish line. The start and completion of each milestone is like a new wave, while on larger scale projects, there will be multiple waves occurring at once.

“There is always a thrill on the first day of the project, when the skip arrives, the crew set up and we know this is our base for a while,” says Charlie, “but nothing beats that final day, when the keys are handed over to the client, and a celebratory cup of tea or glass of champagne is shared with the client as they settle into their newly formed space.

“It’s a very intimate collaboration when working on someone’s home, and to see their joy and pleasure with what you have created together is priceless.”

Her best advice for anyone considering taking the plunge? “Plan, plan and more planning before you start! Knowing what you want before you move on site is key – making big decisions on the fly leads to expensive changes in the future, or an unsatisfactory result.”

Knowledge as they say is power, so before you take the next steps, be sure to check out how much it costs to build a house and be inspired by these self build homes for every budget.

If you want to renovate on a budget we have a whole host of ideas to help you modernise your property without breaking the bank — it really is possible to create your dream home without spending a fortune. 

1. Decide Whether you Need an Architect For a Renovation?

There is no doubt that for certain renovation projects, engaging the services of an architector architectural technologist is the best route. However, not all projects require these services, particularly small-scale extensions and internal remodels.

If you want to save money on a renovation, you do have alternative options when it comes to your plans:

• Draw the plans yourself. This is quite acceptable from a planning department’s point of view, providing you include all the information they require. Bear in mind you’ll need drawings for Building Regulations’ purposes and that these will also be what you hand to your builders to tender for the job.
• Employ a draughtsperson. This is a technical artist capable of transforming ideas into precise plans. If you choose to use a draughtsperson, make sure they carry adequate professional indemnity insurance appropriate to the size of your project.
• Ask your building contractor to come up with a set of plans. 

According to CIAT, there is little difference between architects and architectural technologists in terms of fees — your location and project are the factors that will determine what you are quoted, as well as the size of practice and their experience.

Chartered architectural technologist Eddie Weir MCIAT, says that homeowners should expect to pay (depending on the size and location of the project):

• 3-6% of their final build costs for planning drawings
• up to 12%+ for a full service, including working drawings, project management and periodic site visits

It’s worth checking out ArchitectYourHome, a ‘pay-as-you-go’ architectural service that allows you to use an architect as much or as little as you need, selecting from a menu of services, from drawings only, through to a full design and project management option.

2. Create a Concise Spending Plan — Then Stick to It

Preparation and planning are key when it comes to saving money when renovating. Don't just stumble into the project blindly without a plan of what you are going to spend and where. 

Be honest with yourself and your builder, along with any other trades and suppliers involved in the project — there is no point setting out to renovate in a way that isn't achievable. Likewise, having a set amount of money you are prepared to spend on each element of the project means you won't blow all your funds a month into the renovation. 

3. Make a Schedule of Works

A schedule of works is a list of all the jobs involved in a building project. A good schedule of works will list all the jobs, in the order they need to happen. It should also include other details such as who is carrying out each task, how long it will take and, ideally, how much it will cost.

A schedule like this can be handed to everyone working on your project so that everyone knows what is happening when. This means no communication breakdowns and no costly delays. 

4. Choose the Right Suppliers

Although it is all too easy to be seduced by slick brochures, stylish websites and fast-talking sales reps, do bear in mind that just because a supplier or tradesperson has a large number of employees and impressive sales literature, it does not mean they will necessarily do a better job than a ‘one-man band’ — but it does mean that they will probably charge more.

5. Be Your Own Project Manager

The majority of homeowners trying to stick to their budget when they renovate find the most cost-effective route is to project manage the build themselves, choosing and hiring the separate trades as required.

(MORE: Could You Project Manage Your Building Project?)

The role of a project manager should not be underestimated — the decisions you will have to make and the time you will have to devote to the build is often all-consuming. On the upside, acting as your own project manager means you are in control of what you spend on labour and materials — and it can leave you free to choose which jobs you do on a DIY basis.

6. Find the Best Deals on Materials 

Although buying all your building materials or an entire kitchen design or bathroom suite from one supplier is the simplest and quickest route, it is definitely not the most cost-effective.

Shopping around can really pay off when it comes to new kitchens. There is absolutely no reason why you have to buy all your appliances and worktops from the same company that is supplying your kitchen units — in researching the many alternatives available you are almost guaranteed to save money. The same goes for bathrooms.

7. Get at Least Three Quotes

It is surprising how many renovators fail to get more than one quote for work — the prices quoted by trades can vary by hundreds of pounds.

• get at least three quotes
• get recommendations from trusted sources
• the cheapest quote may not always represent the best value for money

8. The Industrial Look Can Save Money

Anything that cuts down on labour costs is good news. Finishes such as birch-faced ply or exposed brickwork, for example, will do away with the need for a plaster finish (a task which is best left to a professional plasterer).

Exposed brick walls are most suited to internal walls rather than exterior walls where good insulation will be necessary.

9. Recycle Building Materials

Many renovation projects involve the demolition of ramshackle outbuildings. Reusing the original bricks offers huge savings. Likewise, reusing roof tiles and slates in sound condition will not only save you money, but will also help your new additions to blend in with the old.

In the case of timber windows, it is typically preferable to repair rather than replace — plus it is usually more cost-effective too.

10. Mix and Match Products

High quality no longer goes hand-in-hand with high cost. While not all cheap bathroom suites and cheap kitchens offer value for money, many off-the-shelf ranges have come on in leaps and bounds in recent years.

Buying standard unit fronts and carcasses and sprucing them up with more unusual or striking worktops, handles and concealed lighting, for example, offers a purse-friendly alternative to designer ranges.

11. Don't Miss Out on Bargains

Be prepared to pounce on the best bargains and deals as and when they arise by organising storage space that gives you the option to store too-good-to-miss offers such as ex-display kitchens and sanitaryware.

Don’t wait until just before you need a new kitchen to start your search — buying a bargain when you see it can result in huge savings.

12. Take The DIY Route

Rolling up your sleeves and tackling work on a DIY basis is one of the top ways to make savings when it comes to renovations.

How far you go will depend on how confident you feel about your skills, and some jobs are almost always better off left to the professionals (like electrical work and plastering).

However, you can save thousands by doing simpler jobs such as painting and some tiling — you might enjoy it too!

There will also be occasions where a DIY approach carries the risk of costing you more than a professional would. We all know an over-enthusiastic DIYer who has ruined expensive materials and had to pay a professional to put it all right.

(MORE: The Complete Guide to Renovating a House)

13. Buy a Second Hand Kitchen

Second hand kitchens offer brilliant value for money and huge savings. Many second hand kitchens are sold for up to 70% less than their original RRP and come complete with worktops and appliances too. 

There are several prominent used kitchen specialists out there, including Used Kitchen Hub, Used Kitchen Exchange and The Used Kitchen Company. 

14. Save Money on Bathroom Projects

A new bathroom can be a costly project. However, there are many ways to renovate a bathroom cheaply.

Firstly, consider buying standard off-the-shelf suites that include a basin and sink, before giving them a more high end look with designer taps — and perhaps splashing out on a higher quality bath if funds allow.

Secondly, try to replace like for like. For example, keeping the sanitaryware in the same position as the old items will minimise the need for new pipework which can result in significantly lower costs. 

15. Colour Match Paint 

Finally, when decorating your renovation project, be a copycat when it comes to paint colours. 

High end paint companies tend to charge high prices yet it is quite possible to get them closely matched by taking paint swatches along to your local DIY superstore.

Do get tester pots before buying full sizes of your colour matched paint as some companies do it better than others. This will also allow you to check the quality of the finish of the paint before parting with any money. 

Colour matching paint services can offer impressive savings when compared to buying luxury paints but not all paints are created equal. In very public rooms that are inhabited frequently it can still pay in the long term to use the best paints you can afford. 

Finding a plot to build on can sometimes feel like finding the proverbial needle in a haystack. Usually the vital first step for those looking to build their own home, it can be a daunting and frustrating process if you’ve never done it before.

As you can potentially be up against some stiff competition from other self builders, small builders and professional land finders, we spoke to Sophie O'Reilly, the manager of Plotfinder, a property whizz with over 25 years of experience in the industry, along with some of our Homebuilding & Renovating experts to help you identify the key steps to successfully finding a plot.

So, from those in the know, here are 14 ways to find and secure yourself a plot of land on which to build your dream home.

Where to start when finding a plot?

Although it may seem obvious, honing down your preferred location is the best starting point for finding a building plot, says Sophie O’Reilly, manager of Plotfinder.

“If you can identify a specific and practicable area to search thoroughly, you can concentrate your effort on finding a plot in an ideal location,” she explains. Start too wide and you may find yourself lacking the local knowledge to understand why a plot hasn’t sold, if there are any plans in place that could affect its future use and whether it’s being offered at a reasonable price.

When you are trying to find the perfect plot, it also often helps to think outside the box. Yes, many plots come packaged as a plot with planning permission, but often pieces of land are ripe for building a home on, but not advertised as such. There are often genius ways to build on city plots for example, so be sure not to have too narrow an imagination.

Understanding the many different types of self build plot which may be available to you is helpful, if you are willing to look that little bit harder. For example, there may be a small plot sitting behind some existing house, not visible from the street. And don’t overlook houses that are for sale that may not be what you are looking for, but could be demolished and replaced with the home of your dreams.

Steps to finding a building plot

There are a number of different ways you can start generating information regarding available plots, say the experts. Some involve accessing publicly available information, others require you making contact with the right people and subscribing to services.

In general, the following are all available to you and are recommended by those who have experience in this field.

1. Register with local estate and land agents

“There’s no harm in registering with local estate agents as well as online sites such as Rightmove, says David Snell, one of the UK’s leading self-build and plotfinding experts, “but it shouldn’t be the only thing you do. In most areas there are only one or two land agents who are likely to deal with land – identify them and pester them to keep you informed.”

If you are going to sell your house and then rent while you search for a plot, try to chose one of those agents who do sell land. The aim is to try to get into that magic drawer in every agent’s office: the one with the list of ‘hot’ clients, who will get first crack at any good properties the agent is offered.

2. Subscribe to land finding services such as Plotfinder

A great place to start is Homebuilding & Renovating's own plotfinding website: Plotfinder, which is only £5 a month. This is a site specifically designed for our readers and anyone else looking to find their dream project. It has more than 10,000 UK-based plots up for sale for a range of budgets, from basic plots with no planning consent to renovation opportunities and land with all the planning permissions already in place. Not only that but you can sign up to the Plotfinder newsletter, which delivers a round-up of the best plots each week. In addition, you’ll get email alerts based on your criteria and free tickets to Homebuilding & Renovating events and shows worth up to £192.

Of course, if you find a good plot you’ll often need to move fast to beat the competition so it is worth being organised well in advance.

These can save you a lot of legwork, and offer a good range of sites in different areas. "They are a useful starting point, and at the very least will help you to identify those agents who are active in selling land in your target areas," says Mark Stevenson, self build expert. "They will also give you an idea of how much land is coming on to the market, and at what sort of price."

3. Check local authority planning lists

Another good way of finding out what’s going on in your local area and “identifying building plots before they come on to the market, is by scouring weekly lists of planning applications and decisions – usually published on local authority websites, says Sally Tagg, planning consultant and MD of Foxley Tagg Planning.

"If anyone wishes to get planning permission approval to build on a piece of land, they must submit an application, which then becomes a matter of public records," explains architect Julian Owen, self build expert and author of 'Self Build: How to design and build your own home'. "What this means is that you can walk into any planning department and ask to see the Planning Register, in which all the applications and decisions (where they have been reached) are recorded. Many councils now publish them on their websites."

"What you are looking for is recent applications, preferably outline (i.e. no detailed drawings), for single houses. If an approval has not come through, so much the better. A plot will not usually be advertised for sale until the planning approval has been granted, because this enhances the value, and, if someone spots it early enough, they can make an approach before many others are even aware that it is going to be for sale," says Julian.

"If you find a likely application, make a note of the applicant’s details and approach them directly; they are usually, though not always, the owners of the plot. If the application is for outline approval there is a good chance that they are planning to sell, because there is no point in getting a detailed set of plans drawn up which may be changed by a purchaser. But sometimes they may have obtained detailed approval, with a full design, probably because the planners have insisted on it."

"Either way, there is no reason why you should not make a polite approach, either by letter or telephone," he suggests.

Remember that even if your dream plot has planning permission for a house you would never consider building, it doesn't mean you can't build the one you want. When turning pieces of spare land into building plots, the developer will usually submit plans for the least controversial option in order to get the outline planning permission. These are often bungalows or small houses. The reality is that you may well be able to upgrade this planning approval to the kind of house you want.

4. Check your council's local plan for future opportunities

Local authority planning departments, in association with national government and county councils, prepare maps and plans of their area that identify which locations are suitable for new development, and the rules that will be used to govern infill plots. This information is published in the form of the Local Plan. It is a useful document, giving the background to planning policy, and can be browsed at the reception of the planning department.

At any given time, a revision of the Local Plan is usually in progress and, if it is going to replace the existing one fairly soon, it can give useful information on sites that may be released for development in the future.

5. Search using maps

“You can also use Google Maps to identify infill plots as gaps in the street scene that might have potential,” suggests Sally Tagg. Ordnance Survey maps can also be useful, adds Sophie O’Reilly.

6. Contact local architects and surveyors

Start speaking to local professionals early on is another tip from Sophie O’Reilly. “This might help to give you the heads up on sites that they are working on with plot development potential before they even go to market.”

7. Register on auction websites

Registering your interest in upcoming auctions won’t bind you to anything, but will ensure you have an opportunity to bid on plots or properties that could be knocked down leaving you with the perfect plot. “A large number of good opportunities go through auctions, either specialist auction houses or the auction arms of local estate agents,” says Jason Orme, managing director of Future PLC's homes' portfolio.

“They’re not always well advertised unless you register first, so establish the key agents in your area who sell through auctions and get on their list for catalogues. The majority of disposals from major companies, former national utilities and repossessed properties go through this route.”

8. Use local newspapers, advertising boards or forums

Although much information is available online, ‘land wanted’ adverts in local newspapers or land finding forums may open up opportunities for you.

Ensure that you get the local paper on the day it comes out – otherwise other, keener self builders may well have beaten you to the best opportunities.

And, while it might seem counter-intuitive in the highly competitive world of land buying, tell everyone that you’re looking for a building plot. There are lots of people with land they don’t want to build on, so if they know you’re looking they might signpost a hot lead.

Use the paper proactively – take out an advertisement for ‘Building Plot Wanted’ and play up your credentials as private individuals looking for a nice quiet place to live. People would often rather sell a plot to someone they can choose as a neighbour rather than a builder.

You can also consider posting ads in the village shop, on notice boards or on social media. Keep it simple, play up your credentials and never look like a developer as this will put people off. It’s a good idea to offer a small finder’s fee to encourage tip-offs for anything that might lead to a purchase.

9. Keep your eyes peeled

Looking into overgrown side gardens, disused garage blocks and other derelict properties is also another resource available to you. “If you drive around your favourite towns or villages, you’ll see plenty of different types of plot,” says David Snell.

“They’ll be old buildings that have fallen into disrepair or disuse. They’ll be large side gardens that in the street scene have become incongruous due to the fact that many of their neighbours have developed similar plots. They could also be large back gardens where a plot could be formed with its access either running through from the road at the front or, better still, from an existing side access which means building on a garden plot may be possible

"They could just be vacant parcels of land hidden away behind walls or hedges, adds David. "Plots are everywhere. Why are they still there? Because either those who own them don’t realise their potential, or they’ve decided they don’t want to cash in on that potential just yet.”

When looking around, make sure you assess what's already been built. Check for houses of a similar size and quality to the one you wish to build. The way that houses are valued means that it is less economic to develop a house that is massively disproportionate to those surrounding it. You can end up over-developing, that is spending far more money on a house than you could ever sell it for; or under-developing, that is building too small a house and failing to realise the full potential of the site.

10. Consider custom build schemes

In recent years custom build has emerged as a new industry that helps people to build individual homes. Custom build is very different to self build but the end product is the same: a home that you’ve had primary input into the design of.

Where custom build differs from self build is in its delivery. Self builders find their own land, choose and commission designers and builders, and in doing so take on quite a lot of development risk. With custom build, most of these things have been prearranged by a developer or an enabler.

Plots are serviced and have a guarantee of planning consent, and professionals are lined up waiting to work on your behalf. This all reduces the development risk for plot buyers, making custom build very attractive to anyone wanting to build their own home.

An ideal place to start when looking for a custom build plot is The Custom Build Homes' Plot Store. Here you’ll find custom build plots throughout the UK along with lots of support to help move your project forward.

11. Use professional land finders

If trudging the highways and byways isn’t your kind of thing, then employing a specialist land finder might be right up your street. A land finder is an individual or agent who has the skills to search for a plot on your behalf. Their services can be costly and are usually charged either as a percentage of the plot purchase price or as a monthly retainer.

Land finders usually work in the volume housebuilding industry and focus on land with multiple plots to maximise their earnings, but there are some who offer a more personal service focused on individual plots.

Be cautious when it comes to land finders. In theory they offer a great service but in practice finding a plot that suits your individual whims, design aspirations and budget is tough. Remember, there’s no guarantee of success when looking for a plot though, so avoid non-specific agreements, particularly those that require monthly fees paid monthly on direct debit.

If you do decide to employ a land finder then there are three key things that must be agreed from the outset:

• Terms of engagement – what the service will cost and what the terms of payment are
• Level of service – what you’re paying for. This might include land finding, land appraisal and managing the purchase
• What they should look for – a detailed scope of what you want to build, your budget, and the type of location you want

12. Look at commercial sites for sale

When we think of finding a building plot we immediately turn to using websites such as Plotfinder, Rightmove and Zoopla. While these are all great tools and cover most of the market, there are other websites that are less well known and may yield a plot with a little less competition.

A good example of this is the Government’s portal for asset disposal. A simple postcode search will identify properties the government is selling, some of which may be suitable for self building. There’s lots of assets that won’t be suitable, such as hospital buildings or large office buildings, but occasionally something appears that might be ideal – such as a disused ambulance station located in a residential area and between two housing developments, meaning consent to replace it with a self build home should be fairly straightforward.

13. Search your local council's brownfield register

In 2017, The Town and Country Planning (Brownfield Land Register) Regulations were introduced. These regulations require local authorities to prepare and maintain registers of brownfield sites that are suitable for residential development.

There are a few caveats for sites to be included on the register: they must be 0.25ha in size or support five dwellings or more; they must be suitable in planning terms for residential development and they must be available and achievable. The register is displayed in two parts:

• Part 1 is a comprehensive list of all brownfield sites
• Part 2 lists those brownfield sites that have been granted permission in principle

The register is a really useful tool for self builders, particularly those who are working as a group and considering larger sites with multiple plots. It offers an opportunity to identify likely sites before they’ve hit the market and it facilitates communication with local councils, who may be interested in helping people signed up to their Right to Build registers to find sites suitable for self-building.

Finding out what’s available in your area is as simple as putting ‘brownfield register’ plus the name of the relevant local authority into your search engine.

14. Approach larger landowners

Self building is now considered a mainstream form of house building, meaning that large landowners who may have traditionally sold land assets to volume housebuilders are increasingly considering self build as a route to sell building plots. From time to time, these landowners will want to sell disused and unwanted sites, many of which may be small and unsuitable for larger builders.

Self builders should look out for these opportunities and may even want to consider making direct enquiries for land that may look to have been forgotten –you never know, yesterday’s pumping station may be tomorrow’s self build plot.

Larger land owners include:

• Government (local and national)
• Canal and River Trust
• Network Rail
• Universities
• Statutory service providers
• Traditional landowner (e.g. Duchy of Cornwall)

What to do when you find a plot

Depending on how you find a plot will identify the next steps you need to take. “If you find a good opportunity that isn’t on the market for example, you must obtain the courage to knock on the owner’s door and ask if they’d like to sell,” recommends David Snell. “They may tell you that they’re fed up with being bombarded with requests to sell their land. But they may be willing to entertain your ideas. The thing to impress upon them is that you’re not a developer – you’re a self builder who wants to create their own home and anything you build will preserve the value and amenity of their home.”

Likewise, it’s important to not underestimate the importance of looking at the plot several times, says David.

“A first look will really concentrate on whether the plot is in the right location and price range. Only then can you begin to assess where the boundaries are and how wide and deep the plot is.

“It’s always a good idea to drive on past the plot and approach from a different direction to gain a different perspective. Always make a second visit before you take matters further; you’ll notice things you didn’t see before,” he advises.

“For example, if the plot is empty, you might notice a neighbour has encroached on the land and may be seeking to gain permanent possession of part of the plot. Look out for vegetation that might either impede the development or give an indication of conditions below ground. Back home you’ll be able to make some checks on property values and then you’ll be able to make a clearer assessment of value,” he adds before really looking into the intricate details of how to assess a plot.

Buying a plot vs buying an older property to demolish

“The easiest way to find a building plot is to buy a dilapidated house on a good site. This means, critically, that the principle of a house is already established, and you won’t be battling with planners for change of use. You could potentially live in the house for a couple of years while you are thinking about what to do,” says Piers Taylor, architect and founder of Invisible Studio Architects.

If an existing property is in a poor state of repair, is a small property on large land or is a bungalow, the sellers may also not realise the potential the land has as a building plot, so it may not be out of the question to demolish and replace on the land and grab yourself a bargain in the process.

However there are pros and cons to each option, says Sophie O’Reilly.

Buying land vs demolition – the pros

• Vacant land is generally lower maintenance than a property
• Flexibility
• You don't need to pay for a home inspection
• Opportunity to create a property that works for you
• Demolishing and rebuilding may not be as profitable as you hope due to unexpected costs

Buying land vs demolition – the cons

• Financing: It can be more difficult to secure financing for vacant land
• Research: You need to research the plot to ensure you can build what you want
• Planning permission: It can take years to get planning permission for a new build, or you may find it difficult to change the current permission
• Building costs: Building on vacant land can be expensive.

FAQs

How can I find someone to share a plot with?

If you can get in touch with like-minded self builders in your area and act together to raise funds, you could buy a plot that perhaps would be out of the reach of an individual self builder. There may also be custom build enablers and/or serviced plots available in your local area. Hundreds of plots are beginning to come to market through these routes, thanks to developers and local authorities releasing land for large-scale individual homebuilding.

What are the warning signs to suggest a plot is not feasible?

If a plot seems too good to be true, there’s a chance it is. You may have spotted an unusual opportunity but if any of the following apply, make sure to do your research even more thoroughly says Sophie O’Reilly.

Signs may include the fact it's not already been built on, there is water nearby, planning permission has been refused in the past and there are no other similar properties close by. Be sure to research your plot throughly.

That said, don’t always dismiss unusual sites, says Piers Taylor. “The most interesting sites for new builds are the funny leftover parcels of land that are typically overlooked but can be found in many places in our cities and towns,” he says. “These might be easements owned by statutory authorities and rail networks, or brownfield industrial sites or old garages – all with constraints that, for the resourceful, can be overcome.”

Can you buy a plot that's up for auction before it goes to auction?

“You can submit a pre-auction offer to the seller or auction house, this depends on the seller's willingness to accept offers beforehand, and you should always confirm if pre-auction offers are being considered before making one,” says Sophie O’Reily.

Refusing to compromise on a build plot can also be a major stumbling block in finding a plot, says Julian Owen. If you're not willing to accept anything but the 'dream', you're unlikely to find success in purchasing a plot, as these plots without fault just don't exist in many cases.

"If you have some very rigid requirements about where you want to live, the constraints imposed by the the available sites may dictate what type of house you will build," explains Julian. "On the other hand, if you have a firm idea of the character of the house you want to build, then you should be more flexible regarding the location. For example, if you want to live in a classic English village, the chances of getting planning approval for an innovative, modern design are, sadly, slim. If you can compromise and match your desired build style to your dream location, you improve your chances of achieving your main goal, by widening the choice of plots."

And finally, if you do find a plot that doesn’t have planning permission, but believe it’s the right one for you, “you will need to enter into a contract with the landowner,” says Sally Tag. “But, make sure this is conditional on achieving consent – never agree to an unconditional contract, which effectively means that you will buy the site regardless.”

For more plot finding advice, find out how to find a self build plot in a rural area.

There's plenty of good reasons that organic gardening is great for your outdoor space, and probably no more than it makes the garden a safer space for children and pets to be. 

However, some gardeners are a bit trepidatious about the concept of organic gardening, and the extra work that might be required to maintain a thriving garden without the use of undoubtedly helpful chemical treatments. 

But how difficult is organic gardening really? And where do you begin when starting out with an organic garden? RHS gold medal-winning garden designer Rob Dwiar has all the information you need. 

What is Meant by Organic Gardening?

Growing produce organically is centred around avoiding herbicides and pesticides, and being as natural as possible. It might sound like a daunting way to garden but it’s really not that difficult to do successfully.

(MORE: 11 Ideas to Make Your Garden More Eco-Friendly)

That said, it’s not without its challenges, but with some preparation, organic gardening can be an interesting and rewarding way to grow. And it’s a great way to get all the family involved and to create a safer place for pets, animals and children to roam and investigate.

What are the Main Challenges of Organic Gardening?

In the first instance, abandoning ‘traditional’ (and perhaps easy) gardening methods to go organic might appear enormously time-consuming. This may be the case, but as your interaction with your garden increases, so will knowledge, and with it an increase in efficiency. It might also feel more demanding, as herbicides no longer take care of weeds – that will be a manual task – but small changes in approach can make a big difference.

The best approach to weeds may well be taken just before beginning an organic garden venture. For example, covering areas using black membrane or sheets to exclude the light will prevent annual weeds from coming up, and keeping this on over more than one season should reduce perennial weeds drastically, too. 

Deep layers of mulch (80mm or even 100mm) can also be preventative in a similar way. Otherwise, repeated manual removal through hoeing and forking can be effective at removing and eventually killing weeds, if a bit labour intensive.

(MORE: Garden Tools)

In the same way that natural mulch can help stave off weeds, natural ingredients can be used to feed plants, and therefore remove the potential use of pernicious chemical-based fertilisers. Well-rotted stable manure or chicken pellets used along with compost (easy to make in the garden from food waste) will cater for plants’ needs. This material can be dug in or spread on the soil in the winter months for the worms and weather to do the hard work.

Pest Control for Organic Gardens 

Pests play a big part in gardeners’ trepidation towards organic gardening, but there are effective chemical-free methods of handling threats.

Barriers like chicken mesh over cabbage and root vegetables, and cages over berries or fruits will protect crops from birds.

However, birds can also help deal with aphids and sawfly caterpillars (which can devastate gooseberry and redcurrant crops) as well as any caterpillars and slugs, so their presence will have to be balanced against the fruit they will inevitably be interested in. 

Covering fruit with a fleece in the weeks running up to harvest should foil fruit thieves. And introducing trouble-free plants like marigolds can be effective, as they will attract ladybirds, which can keep pests like aphids in check.

Alternatively, or perhaps in addition to physical methods, biological methods can be used. Generally, these are methods based on introducing natural predators that will prey on pests.

Use of these is very specific and timing is crucial, as introduced predators will need their prey active and alive; predators have very specific prey, and the type of predator is important per gardening situation.

What Should I Grow in an Organic Garden?

Essentially all plants can be grown organically so the options are endless, but here’s some ideas to start out with:

Fruit and vegetables

• Begin with: carrots, potatoes, onions, garlic, leeks, beans, berries.
• Work towards: Parsnips, celery, cauliflower, aubergine, asparagus, apples.

Ornamentals

• Begin with: Lawns, bulbs, choisyas, sedums, ferns, geraniums.
• Work toward: Dahlias, fuchsias, hydrangeas, clematis, box hedges, roses, pyracanthas (these harder options are susceptible to pests).

If you are new to organic gardening or a beginner gardener in general, grow ‘easy’ veg first – potatoes, carrots, beetroot, onions, peas, and beans – while avoiding more demanding crops like parsnip, celery and fennel. Root vegetables are excellent starters no matter your familiarity with organic gardening and they will be a solid barometer to tell you how well the patch and the implemented methods are performing. 

Growing, preparing and planning can begin at any time; the age-old adage of ‘there’s always something to do in the garden’ certainly applies to organic gardening. As long as the soil is not too wet or cold, and can be worked without becoming compacted, it can be dug over and beds can be prepared, and some veg, like garlic, can be planted as late as December.

Organic gardening with produce can be incredibly rewarding and it may well be tempting to extend this to more ornamental plants. And, generally speaking, as long as a plant’s needs – its preferred climate, soil type, light and moisture requirements – are known and matched as closely as possible, then there is a decent chance of it prospering with little horticultural intervention.

Therefore, it is also wise to fit ideas around the desired plants and the conditions one’s plot can offer. If the plants grow healthily, then they have a good chance of withstanding pests but if the pests prevail a substitute will have to be found. This is gardening in a microcosm — one doesn’t know if something works until one tries. 

Generally, however, many ornamental plants are looked after organically by default: lawns thrive without being sprayed; and removing slugs from hostas is an everyday gardening task.

What Type of Soil is Best for Organic Gardening?

It’s necessary to know the soil intimately. Be it sandy and free-draining, or heavy and thick clay, soil makes a big difference to any form of gardening and organic growing is no different.

Taking this a step further, find out if the soil is acidic, neutral or alkaline – it can be done via a simple testing kit – as it’s crucial in determining exactly which plants are compatible. And although it’s possible to adjust soil pH through feeding, it is always easier to match plants to the existing soil.

Clay soils are more retentive of water, so crops that have high water demands grow well in them — beans, brassica (cabbages) and peas. Veg that requires good drainage like beetroot and carrots, along with Mediterranean herbs (thyme, rosemary, sage, marjoram, chives) are a great fit for sandier soils. 

Potatoes and peas, for example, are so easy going they will grow in any soil — even ‘builder’s soil’ homeowners are sometimes left with!

How to Start an Organic Garden

Begin by making sure there is  enough space for your plot to grow effectively. You’ll need enough space to allow plants to thrive, ensure access to crops and enable light, water and air to circulate. 

A raised veg bed will likely be best in the very first instance. And when working out its size, generally, you can work to the go-to materials’ dimensions – for example, sleepers are often 2.4m long and 200mm x 100mm, so a bed that’s 2.4m x 1.2m -
one whole sleeper by one half sleeper – will serve you very well.

Importantly, raised veg beds shouldn’t be wider than 1.5m, as you want to maintain easy access to crops in the middle. Getting the bed’s height to 300mm or more will provide the best chance for multiple crops, allowing plenty of soil and nutrients to be acquired as well as providing ample space to grow for larger fruit shrubs and root veg.

Knowing where the sun hits the garden is key, as well as knowing the direction of the prevailing wind, as these factors can all affect where to put your plot based on what you’d like to grow. Veg crops need as much light as you can give them; a good period of at least five hours a day of sunlight has been thrown around as a target.

You might find yourself asking 'what is an EPC?' for a number of reasons, as it's required whether you're building, buying, selling or renting a house. An Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) outlines a property's energy use and potential energy costs, as well as how improvements can be made. 

In this guide to EPCs, we take an deeper look at the roles Energy Performance Certificates play in the process of selling, buying and building a home, alongside how useful they are as indicators of your home's energy efficiency. 

What is an EPC?

An Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) is a document that sets out the assessed energy efficiency and potential CO2 emissions for a property. The property is rated on a scale from A to G with A being excellent and G a disaster. Very, very few houses achieve an A-rating and most tend to be D or above. Those languishing in the E, F or G brackets need to be encouraged to take immediate action. 

The document runs to 4 pages and also sets out the probable running cost for the house, suggests improvements that could be made to improve energy efficiency, the possible capital cost of those improvements and the benefit they could have on running costs and CO2 emissions. 

What is the Purpose of an EPC?

At the basic level, it is a legal requirement that any property being sold or rented has an EPC that is less that 2 years old. As there is no legal requirement to improve the rating, the reason is likely to be to raise awareness of energy efficiency in properties, to put it on the agenda, as it were, to encourage us to think about it. 

Perhaps it is hoped that it will influence house buyers in deciding which house to buy. And, therefore, in turn to encourage home owners to improve the thermal efficiency of their home, to get a better rating and to increase it saleability. 

Theoretically that could happen, and it would be a good thing if it did, but there can’t be many people that, along with number of bedrooms, state of repair, local schools, size of garden, location, add an EPC rating of C or above to their home-buying criteria. 

An EPC is also necessary for a Domestic Renewable Heat Incentive application (which  closes in March 2022). Although an EPC is notionally valid for 10 years, all the actual uses —  selling or renting property or RHI application — require an EPC that is less than 2 years old. 

How is an EPC Calculated?

EPCs use what is essentially the same software as for SAP calculations, although there are two sets for EPCs, SAP and RdSAP. 

SAP or Standard Assessment Procedure, is the method used for new build properties to assess their compliance with Building Regulations Part L. An RdSAP is a Reduced Data SAP calculation specifically for EPCs in existing properties where a full data set cannot be obtained. 

Unlike EPC calculations, a SAP assessment results in a pass or fail and its accuracy is generally not questioned. For a new build the SAP calculation is likely to lead directly to an EPC that itself will be equally as accurate. However, personal experience has shown that there is a reasonable doubt over the accuracy of EPCs carried out for existing properties. 

Almost universally the heat loss figure has varied from a heat loss calculation completed on a heating industry standard calculator. The difference has varied from a bit off to wildly inaccurate. It has also been shown that calculations carried out on the same property, at the same time, by different assessors can result in different outcomes. The reason for this is the way the data is gathered. 

A SAP calculation is based on drawings and specification for that new build property. In that case the data — U-values, dimensions, materials, air tightness, etc — is defined and accurate, resulting in an accurate assessment. In the case of EPCs, data is gathered by “non-invasive survey”. In other words, a bit of a look around and a chat with the owners. Obviously that method is likely to result in inaccurate and/or incomplete data. And we can’t really blame the assessor for this, when all they can do is look at the element (wall, floor, window, etc) and ask the owner how much insulation it has and what type. 

How Much Does an EPC Cost?

EPC assessments cost between £50 and £100. Prices vary, so it pays to shop around for the best deal. 

(MORE: Need an EPC? Find a expert assessor near you)

How Useful is an EPC?

To a large extent the question is irrelevant as in any active situation — buying, selling, renting — we have to have one. Beyond that there is some discussion over their efficacy. A survey carried out by Survey and Test Ltd suggested that houses with an EPC rating of C or better could get a 2.8% higher sale price than a similar property with D or poorer rating. 

Conversely, another survey carried out by Show House indicated that 25% of EPCs recorded the dimensions of the house with more than 10% inaccuracy, when floor area and volume of the house are critical to the calculation and have a direct impact on energy consumption. 

Then there are the suggested improvements. These are generally “suggested” by the software in that if the assessor ticks the box for “no cavity wall insulation” the software will suggest installing that insulation and do all the calculations regarding probable cost and benefits. Which is exactly what happened to the owner of a 19th century house, with 500mm thick solid stone walls. The result was that the whole document was dismissed as being a farce.  

We can conclude therefore, that if the reader is prepared to believe it, the EPC will have value. But that the methodology currently used to produce them does not instil any confidence in their accuracy or efficacy. 

There's no doubt that your builder will press home that a building estimate is a best guess, not the final figure that your project will cost, but with the financing of the project often hanging its hat on the estimate, any large deviations could prove problematic for the build. 

While it's possible to do your best to cost control a build as you're going along, if the estimate is way off in the first place, it will be almost impossible to bring down the price, no matter how much you put cost efficiency ahead of the design. 

So why might an estimate go wrong? Though the estimating process can be quite simple, there are some key areas in which they're vulnerable to increases in costs. Keep them in mind, and you may have the foresight to avoid or budget for extra costs. 

1. Material Price Increases

In the current building boom, there is a serious shortage of materials and labour across the industry. Some materials have doubled in recent months and some are becoming very scarce. There are also forecasts of yet more price rises, again some as much as double —  timber, insulation, cement, landscaping products to name a few. 

(MORE: Construction Materials Shortage Set to Continue, and Prices Could Keep Rising)

Micro and SME building contractors cannot afford to absorb these increases so have to pass it on to the customer. If you are intrigued about some of the costs, just ask, as we are more than happy to explain the price rises that are going on. A good builder will work closely with their various suppliers to keep abreast of price increases and shortages of materials. 

2. False Benchmarking

Benchmarking is an ‘early doors’ means of guessing how much a project will cost. Note the deliberate use of the word ‘guessing’. In essence, you take a previous project, measure it in m2, and multiply this cost by your new dimensions (a little more to it than that but that is the bones of it). Then you apply this rate to your own project.

The trouble is you are comparing your scheme to one which was built at a different time, in a different place, by different people, using different materials. Build costs can vary between £300-£3,000/m2 due to the differences alluded to above — are you really comparing like with like?

3. Assumptions

If you don’t know something, making an assumption is your best guess of the right solution. This applies to specification, methods of working, access requirements, logistical support, delivery timeslots, lead-in times — the list goes on. 

If you assume something, bear in mind you are essentially guessing with a hint of education attached — that’s all. And the accuracy of that guess is often open to the other parties’ own assumptions or guesses. One man’s assumption is another man’s opportunity to make money. Guess at your peril!

4. Unclear or Incomplete Design

If something is unclear, different people will interpret it in different ways. If your design is open to interpretation, or has large elements yet to be cleared up, using provisional sums is useful but still leads to potential inaccuracy. 

The aim with any provisional is to allow enough money to cover the issue, but in more cases than not, this usually being slightly on the lower end of expectations to make the initial estimates more optimistic. Detail is the only sure way to establish prices.

(MORE: 7 Reasons Your Builders' Quotes are Beyond Budget)

5. Innovative Construction Techniques or Design Details

A major benefit of self build and renovation is the ability to engage with ‘off-piste’ techniques, innovative design and cutting-edge technology and materials. However, do not ever associate these with traditional costing and lower build prices.

Bespoke (or even niche) design has a price attached. It affects material prices but, perhaps more so, builders will struggle to accurately price for things that look out of the ordinary. The ability to get the lowest price is closely associated with using tried and tested methods, materials and systems — the economy of scale associated with the best prices from merchants, contractors and suppliers is well served here.

6. Estimate Lag 

Price increases in labour and materials is bad news for estimates that aren’t very recently completed. A homeowner going back to a builder to confirm a go-ahead on an estimate supplied six months ago might find that their figures are no longer relevant, which will affect the whole planning process.

7. Specification Change

Changing your mind is the main concern here — change costs money. It affects the estimate because it starts the ‘add and omit’ process. Change is where contractors do very well out of contracts. 

Change is often necessary, and the beauty of being in charge is the ability to satisfy your desires and requests — just be warned that change costs, and your cost control and forecasting abilities will be stretched, and your estimate will start to slip.

(MORE: 15 Ways to Stay on Budget)

8. Procurement

In basic terms, the more accurate your design and the more risk and control you put onto the contractor, the more you can be confident that your precontract estimate of costs will be accurate. 

At the opposite end of the procurement spectrum, engaging trades on a weekly rate and buying your own materials gives you great hands-on control, but threatens your estimate as it is harder to control or predict timings (and therefore wage bills) and your own procurement of materials is of paramount importance.

(MORE: Tips for Buying at a Builders Merchant)

9. Measure all the Work, Not Just the Headlines

When estimating costs, measurement of the work from the drawings and specification is vital. The main point here is that appreciating the full scope of the work is key. If we consider brickwork, for example, measuring the elevations will give you a good guess as to the overall job, but check that you have included the ‘extra overs’ — raking cuts at gables, forming cavities, weep holes, pointing after scaffold removal, band courses, building in lintels, etc. should all be accounted for.

In other words, measure all the work, not just the headlines. And make sure you impart this to the supply chain, rather than just getting a quote from the bricklayer for construction of ‘X’m2 of face brickwork.

10. Time and the Programme

The programme affects the estimate. Winter working, drying times, working hours externally with natural daylight — the time of year when the work is carried out will affect costs. 

Increases in time as the work progresses through delays, changes or procurement issues will all impact on the estimate profoundly as prelims and site management will increase, follow-on trades may be disrupted, and you may need to find different contractors (at different prices!) to keep to programme. The forgotten enemy of the estimate is the programme and its impact on cost.

(MORE: A Typical Self Build Schedule)

11. Wastage

Understanding the impact of wastage allowances is vital in estimating — not just making sure you have allowed enough material and time to carry out the measured works, but have also included accurate and realistic wastage considerations. Take flooring, for example. A tiled floor laid with straight, square bonding (joints) is relatively efficient. At the edges, you will probably get two cuts out of one plain single colour floor tile — i.e cutting the tile to fit in at the edge is probably going to leave enough on that tile to use reversed on another edge. However, introduce a chequer board pattern and the number of reusable cut tiles diminishes. Add angles or changes in the bond and this diminishes even more. The amount of wastage can run from 10 percent to in the region of 40 per cent for intricate patterns, to much higher numbers where different colours, patterns and bond are employed.

The design informs the working method which informs the wastage allowance. Make sure when estimating that this is thought about. Even planning ceiling heights can impact on this — 2.4m celling heights enable full-height plasterboard to be used with little wastage. While 2.5m requires small sections of board to be cut to complete the wall and 2.3m-high plasterboard will require 100mm of board to be thrown away with little chance of use elsewhere. When estimating, these considerations have an impact.

12. Logistics and Prelims

The unsung supporting cast of the building programme, these are the items which make the site run smoothly, safely and correctly. Access equipment, delivery procedures, site toilets, debris removal, management costs, printing of documentation, site insurances — all these need paying for but are easily overlooked when estimating costs as they are not directly associated with or measurable from the drawings.

As a case in point, a typical build requires a 6m3 skip per week on site for general debris, as well as the skips for specific identified tasks. This could add circa £275 a week to the cost of the build without anything tangible being constructed. But failing to get rid of the rubbish as it accrues is fatal in terms of efficiency.

(MORE: How to Get Rid of Rubble)

In the world of residential construction, it is becoming more common for those wanting to self build or extend to engage a contractor to construct the shell of the house to a water and weathertight stage under one contract.

This often-used approach involves handing over the management and risk for a significant portion of the build, and then retain control of the elements with which you feel comfortable and able to manage. 

Usually the portion which is passed to a contractor is the drainage, foundations and main structure, universally referred to as the ‘shell’. This stems from commercial schemes which are constructed to ‘shell and core’ standard, with the incoming tenant or owner then carrying out the final fit-out of items separately.

The follow-on works are then procured directly as trades packages, or on labour and material basis, through to completion. 

(MORE: Typical Self Build Schedule)

Benefits of Shell-Only Contracts

This hybrid procurement gives a level of control and hands-on involvement which is desirable in a project in which you’ll end up living, while giving the peace of mind of the experienced main contractor having responsibility for setting out, preparing and building the main structural and waterproof elements of the build. It also gives the security of recourse if there are problems with the main structure and/or on site.

In practical terms, this fits particularly well with factory-produced homes as they lend themselves to being erected on site exactly as it says on the tin — you pick your product, they manufacture, deliver and build it, and then leave, with you then looking at essentially a fit-out package of works to complete your home.

What Should a Shell-Only Contract Contain?

Prior to placing any orders or signing up with builders, it is essential that you review the scope of the ‘shell’ contract — double check that you understand exactly what you are buying, what will be delivered and erected, and what you will need to do to finish the scheme when the main contract is complete. 

Give particular focus to the incoming services (gas, water, electric, etc.) as provision needs to be made for entry points. Look for the impact of installing the pipework and cables so that thought is given to the carcassing (especially waste and soil pipework which is large and hard to hide away after the event).

The main thing you need to cover is that you have addressed the follow-on trades with the shell contractor so that once they start on site they have little or no need to worry about incorporating or helping the next trades. 

This can be overcome by planning the project traditionally, and understanding and building into the contract for the shell all those requirements — service ducts, fireproofing issues, sanitaryware fixing points, and so on. 

All these are hard to incorporate after the shell is built, but easy enough to design in prior to commencing on site. The hybrid procurement route is not transferable to the planning and design stage, only the site work.

Practicalities of Having a Two-Phased Approach

Probably the key element of splitting your scheme in to shell and fit-out stages is to understand the interdependence of these two ‘phases’ — how particular trades will crossover the key chronological split. 

In simple terms, when you commission the structure of the building, you need to be able to impart to the contractor the layouts, service penetrations, finished floor to ceiling heights, and so on, that are required.

For example, it is incumbent on you, the project manager, to realise that when you state you want a ceiling height of 2.45m, this needs to be understood by the superstructure contractor that this is a finished dimension, not a structural one — you may well need to run services beneath the first floor structure, or cater for the floor finish build-up. 

A floor of battens, plywood and high-end vinyl flooring in the bathroom will be circa 50mm thick, which unless you indicate otherwise, will reduce the 2.45m ceiling height to 2.4m unless you tell the contractor building the structure the full details of the build-ups, and he understands your requirements.

In most cases, these issues can and should be planned early, even if they are not yet procured or even finalised in terms of finish. Wall thickness informs window reveal depths, for example — knowing how you want the building to be fitted out is vital when confirming details for the shell of the building. 

One reason many self builders and renovators utilise a main contractor for the whole job is to pass this responsibility ‘down the line’. So, if you are taking on the project management role ‘down the line’, then it falls to you.

(MORE: Self Build Project Management)

Approaching the Design

By far the most sensible approach for anyone looking to build in these two distinct phases is to treat the design development stage as though it were one contract initially. 

In commercial sectors there is a significant stage in the design process called design coordination — namely that the architect, structural engineer, services designer and interior designer are all working together to ensure the designs have no conflicts, all the services fit in the correct places, ducts are correct, and so on.

As project manager and lead designer on your own project, you need to have this process at the front of your mind when developing and procuring the works. Splitting the works into packages should not be used as a way of putting off design and coordination decisions; these need considering at the start of the process before splitting the works. Remember, the point to this process is to eliminate the need for assumption!

Are Shell-Only Contracts Standard or Can They be Tailored?

The scope and extent of the shell contract is entirely adjustable and can be tailored to suit your requirements. 

For example, you can get the contractor to construct the house and drainage up to the roof structure only, and then get your own roofers and window installers in if you wish. Or, you could choose to get the complete external envelope managed, built and finished by one contractor – so to all intents and purposes the house looks finished from the outside – and then carry out the internal works on a DIY basis if this is better suited to your time and resources.

The opportunity to save on costs presents itself via this hybrid procurement route, while still retaining the comfort of the main structural integrity being maintained. 

Remember too that external funding (i.e. the mortgage company) of a scheme will often look to the credibility of the team delivering the project when considering advancing funds — a completely DIY route will generally not be as well received as a full main contractor method, but a hybrid is perhaps the best compromise to achieve the lowest costs while still enabling some money to be borrowed.

(MORE: Self Build Mortgages)

The works can be split and procured in almost any way you want to suit your preferences and confidence, but the coordination and integration of each package is your responsibility. Mistakes occur where there are gaps and loopholes in the specification and procurement.

How Much Could I Save With a Shell-Only Contract?

Cost savings can be significant. 

On average the interior works (including heating and electrics) account for around 40–60% of the total spend (it depends on many things of course) and management of this element would be in the region of 10–20% on top of the labour and materials cost. 

However, the key to savings is in making sure the gaps and loopholes discussed about above don’t creep in.

Have you considered an architectural technologist for your build? While ‘architect’ is often used as a catch-all term by self builders, there’s a handful of professionals, including architects, chartered architectural technologists and house designers, that can offer you architectural services for a range of projects, including renovations, extensions and self builds. 

In this quick guide, we delve into the key differences between architectural technologists and architects; however, it’s worth keeping in mind that these are generalities across the industry. 

The skills on offer from individual architects, technologists or practices will differ depending on experience and expertise, so keep an open mind when researching your build team and, when in doubt, look to examples of previous work and reviews before making your decision. 

What is an Architectural Technologist?

The Chartered Institute of Architectural Technologists (CIAT), the industry body for the profession, describes the discipline as: “focusing on the design of buildings and their production and performance through the process, management and integral use of technology.”

According to CIAT, chartered architectural technologists:

• are qualified to offer design services and manage projects from inception to completion
• lead the technological design of a project; forming the link between concept, innovation and realisation

In order to become a member of CIAT, and use the letters MCIAT after their name, individuals need to have to either completed an accredited degree, Higher National Diploma or the S/NVQ4 in Architectural Technology. This then needs to be followed by practical and evidenced experience, with competence demonstrated at a formal interview.

As architectural technicians and non-chartered architectural technologists do not have to be registered with CIAT, they may not hold the necessary academic qualifications or skills and experience to carry out satisfactory design services. It’s always worth checking to see that they are qualified.

(MORE: Find an architectural design expert in your area)

What Can an Architectural Technologist Do?

A chartered architectural technologist will be able to:

• create a design for you based on your brief
• submit your plans for approval
• work with the other professionals involved in the build
• act as a project manager
• deal with the day-to-day running of the project

The extent of their involvement depends on what you want from them and also, partly, on your budget.

The skills of chartered architectural technologists tend to sit somewhere between the creative side of building design (the bit that architects usually specialise in) and in building science, engineering and technology.

Although it can be difficult to draw a definite line between what a chartered architectural technologist can offer and the skills of an Architect, as a guide, Architects are usually more design led.

Chartered architectural technologists, on the other hand, have often had more experience and training in the science and technology of a building — how a building is put together and the complexities of the construction and materials being used.

What's the Difference Between an Architect and a Architectural Technologist?

Being able to call yourself an 'architect' is protected by statute and can only be used by those accredited in the professions. 

The term architect can only be used by professionals who have successfully completed seven years’ training and are registered with the Architects Registration Board (ARB). Most will also be Chartered Members of the Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA).

If you have very firm ideas of how you want your project to look, but are still undertaking a renovation or conversion that will involve a large amount of structural calculations, then a chartered architectural technologist may be the way to go. 

If you are after a one-of-a-kind, innovative design, then it could be that an Architect is your best bet.

However, many chartered architectural technologists will be very creative and fully capable of producing eye-catching and innovative designs on top of being more scientifically led. Likewise,  architects are likely to be highly technical in their approach.

Do your research, look at their previous work and ideally speak to past clients about their experiences of working with them. In some instances, there may be very little difference in what an architect can offer you versus an architectural technologist. 

How Much Will a Chartered Architectural Technologist Cost?

The idea that using a chartered architectural technologist will be cheaper than using an architect isn't a universal truth, but in some instances, this may prove to be the case, 

The cost will depend on multiple factors, including:

• project complexity
• scale
• location
• level of involvement required

There are three main ways to approach the cost:

• agree a fixed price for some (or all) key stages, such as design concepts, planning, construction drawings and full tender drawings
• agree an hourly or daily rate
• agree a percentage of the build contract

Finding a plot, gaining planning permission, installing access, and bringing mains services to the site can be some of the most problematic, time-consuming and expensive elements of any self build. But what if someone else could take the strain?

Custom build is a less hands-on form of self-building, which involves purchasing a plot of land with planning permission already in place, usually as part of a development of individual homes.

The developer selling the land will often arrange for services and access roads to be in place, and some companies prepare foundations or even offer a turnkey option for completing the entire build. So what does a custom build involve and is it for everyone?

1. What are the pros of a custom build?

Custom build is essentially a ‘packaged plot’, with planning permission for a house design within an agreed development aesthetic, as well as no-hassle utility connections.

The main benefit of custom build is that it’s a more streamlined and supported route to owning an individual new build home. A custom build option means the developer completes the initial stages of gaining planning permission and other approvals, arranging access, and bringing services to site.

“Custom build is much more straightforward than self build,” says Michael Holmes, Homebuilding & Renovating's director of content, and vice chair of the National Custom and Self Build Association (NaCSBA).

“You have perhaps fewer choices but you also have a great deal more assistance from a developer helping you to build the house on a serviced plot," he adds. This speeds up the process, reduces risk, and enables more accurate budgeting.

2. Who is custom build suitable for?

“Custom build is a great option for budding self-builders who are keen to get on with a project but have yet to secure a building plot,” explains James Buchanan, head of custom build at specialist oak framing company Oakwrights.

“Custom build sites are attracting customers who are frustrated by the existing property market and are venturing away from estate agents into the self-build sector, understanding the clear advantages of a bespoke new build.”

Merry Albright, creative director at specialist oak-framing company, Border Oak, and a campaigner for greater delivery of serviced custom home plots, has completed both a self build and a custom build.

“We found self build quite stressful and time-consuming, so custom build suited us better, as we were already busy with our children and high-pressure jobs,” she explains.

“Project managers and experienced construction teams are used to working together and have better skills, contacts, and knowledge, which avoids potential pitfalls. Custom build meant we could focus on the more enjoyable details.”

3. Are there any negatives to this route?

There is a risk that custom build schemes can be let down by poor-quality shared elements, long construction timescales, and an uncontrolled mix of housing designs, so it’s important to be certain of exactly what the package will deliver before buying your plot, and of any restrictions regarding design which could limit your choices.

Building alongside others can create a sense of camaraderie, but once you’ve completed your build you may still be surrounded by building sites with the associated noise, dust, and constant deliveries.

The parameters of a custom build plot are likely to be much more restrictive than for a self build, and custom builds can be a more expensive route than traditional self build costs.

Also be mindful that cohousing plots are likely to have a denser arrangement of plots, meaning they won't necessarily offer the space and privacy from neighbours, so this is not necessarily the route for those seeking a highly unique home in a remote location away from other properties.

Weigh up the pros and cons, including the cost implications, and complete detailed research at an early stage.

4. What qualifies as a custom build?

Many custom build projects are on small developments of several plots – sometimes owned by the package company – but custom build can also be single homes on single plots.

The government website (www.gov.uk) states: ‘In considering whether a home is a self build or custom build home, relevant authorities must be satisfied that the initial owner of the home will have primary input into its final design and layout.

'Off-plan housing, homes purchased at the plan stage prior to construction and without input into the design and layout from the buyer, are not considered to meet the definition of self build and custom housing.’

5. How do I find a site?

With plot shortages a problem in the UK, custom build can offer a more accessible route to self build.

Websites and discussion forums will put you in touch with a wide range of people and groups, such as the National Custom & Self Build Association which aims to promote the release of land for self build projects across the UK, and to provide a forum for people and organisations with an interest in self build. Registering on the Self Build Portal is also a good place to start.

“A shortage of plots is mostly due to delays in the planning system,” says James Buchanan, but there are ways to find a custom build plot.

“There are several major plot sale websites, with daily and weekly updates. Sometimes local estate agents or self-build suppliers, like ourselves, have all the details of custom build plots online. We have a pipeline of over 50 plots that are currently either in design or planning, from Scotland down to the south coast.”

Cohousing is another way to custom build which is becoming increasingly popular. It is similar to a group self build where a group of people work together to build a set of homes, and once again, this is often with the help of a developer.

Joining a new cohousing group may offer the chance to custom build, and a cohousing scheme benefits from shared benefits for residents, including use of communal spaces.

6. Can the Right to Build legislation help?

The ‘Right to Build’ legislation requires councils in England to permission sufficient serviced plots to meet local demand for custom and self-build housing. Every council should keep a register of aspiring self and custom home builders, and then grant planning permission for enough serviced plots to meet that demand.

All councils now hold statutory self-build demand registers, and many are introducing initiatives through local plans, proposals for garden communities, or directly by releasing land for plots.

7. What questions should you ask of a developer?

Although many of the details regarding a custom build can be ascertained from the planning documents or the plot passport information, when talking to potential developers, it's wise to make sure you have answers to the following questions:

• How will multiple unit custom build schemes work as a whole development?
• Are there shared design standards and agreements on the materials used for all the homes?
• What deadlines are in place for completing work?
• Is sufficient green space allocated between the houses?
• Who is responsible for shared elements such as access roads?

8. What is a plot passport?

This is a document is provided by the developer and should detail information about each plot, such as parameters set by the planners, including the maximum size and height of the potential house.

There will also be a design code for both the overall development and individual houses, detailing any materials that have been stipulated by the planners and showing how the overall development will look.

9. Will the house be individually designed?

There should be the option to personalise your house, although this may depend on certain parameters set by the planners, which ensure that all new homes on the site appear unified and fall within a clear design code.

Tailoring a pre-designed house may mean compromising on certain features and materials externally, although internally there should be more choice of layout, fixtures and finishes such as paint and tiles. Amending an existing planning permission is usually an easier process, as the precedent is set that planning for a home has already been permitted.

As an example, “at Church View, one of our latest custom build developments, one client chose to change the four-bedroom house design attributed to the plot into a single storey, two- bedroom home which they futureproofed for later life,” says James Buchanan.

“At Webb’s Meadow," he adds, "other owners chose to change the design on their plot to a Derndale house from our country contemporary range, as well as altering the orientation to maximise their views.”

10. How do costs compare to other build routes?

“There is a misconception that custom build is more expensive than self-build,” believes Merry Albright. “By using experienced teams with a proven track record, and working to a pre-determined schedule, it is more likely that money will be saved and expensive mistakes can be avoided. Often the finished house is worth more than the outlay, depending on plot costs.”

A custom build plot shares many costs with others on the development, such as roads and services connections, and although the cost of the finished home will vary due to each client’s specification, new builds should be zero rated for VAT.

11. Should I use an experienced developer?

Knowledgeable developers will come with benefits. They should be able to share local contacts and help access products and services, which can prove invaluable for novice self-builders.

“Most custom build projects are undertaken in partnership with a specialist package company, such as Border Oak," confirms Merry Alright.

The benefits? "We can offer design and planning services alongside the ability to build the house, including procurement and quantity surveying, engineering services, construction, infrastructure, project management, health and safety, and building regulations compliance – to deliver an entire bespoke home from beginning to end,” she explains.

12. Can the developer build your entire house?

According to the Self Build Portal, custom build generally falls into one of three models:

• The serviced plot: This plot will have planning permission and infrastructure already in place. Planning may be outline with a design code or what is known as a 'plot passport’ which enables you to get detailed planning permission more quickly than usual. It may also have a detailed planning permission in place.
• The shell: This is a wind and watertight home with no internal fixtures or fittings. You will need to arrange for all the trades yourself to complete. Sometimes this is also called ‘self-finish’ which may mean more of the internal works have already been done.
• The customisable turnkey: The final route is for the custom build developer to build the entire home for you to your design and specification, known as a turnkey. Normally these will be taken from a menu or catalogue of choices, but sometimes it can be bespoke. You spec up the home with the designer/builder and they build your vision.

Think a custom build route could be the right one for you? Discover how this charming custom build cottage was built in just over a year for £350k, and if an oak frame home style custom build appeals, be inspired by 26 of the UK's best oak frame home ideas.

The UK government has been encouraging mortgage lenders to develop green mortgage products since publishing its Clean Growth Strategy in 2017.

The idea was to develop cheaper mortgages which take account of the lower lending risk associated with more energy-efficient properties. Essentially, it would pay to be green.

Then in 2019, the government published the Green Finance Strategy, which promoted the adoption of green finance products and services, and pledged to unlock green mortgages for new build homes. 

While there isn’t a universal definition of a green mortgage, this is generally how it works: lenders offering green mortgages either offer borrowers preferential terms if they buy an energy-efficient home, or if they commit to improving the efficiency of their current home.

There is now a growing number of lenders offering green mortgages – some specialist lenders and a couple of high street brands. 

(MORE: Self Build Mortgages)

How Do I Get a Green Mortgage? 

Eligibility criteria for a green mortgage varies from lender to lender, but the property’s Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) is typically a key factor and will need to be provided.

An EPC tells you how energy efficient a building is and gives the property a number of points between 0-100, which equates to a rating between A (highest) and a G (lowest). Scores of 81 or above qualify for an A or B rating. 

The idea is that the EPC provides information about how costly the property will be to heat and light, and what its carbon dioxide emissions are likely to be.

When applying for a green mortgage other documentation required to prove the home’s green credentials, in addition to the EPC, will vary between lenders. However, almost universally, the home must be for the owner to live in, not rent out as a buy-to-let. 

Some lenders offer green mortgages for: 

• buying new build homes (Barclays)
• funding energy efficient improvements (Saffron Building Society and Nationwide)
• self builders and renovators (Ecology Building Society)
• equity release (Just Group).

(MORE: Do I need a renovation mortgage?)

Which Lenders Offer Green Mortgages? 

Barclays

Barclays entered the green mortgage market in 2018. Its Green Home Mortgage is for buyers purchasing an energy-efficient new build property from one of the bank’s partner house builders. These include Barratt, Bloor Homes, Bovis, Countryside Properties, Persimmon, and Taylor Wimpey.

With new builds, housebuilders provide a Predicted Energy Assessment (PEA) before a home is built. This document is sufficient to be eligible for a green mortgage, with the property needing a predicted EPC rating of A or B. 

In April 2021, Barclays expanded availability of its Green Home mortgages to include any newly built property purchased directly from a builder or developer with an energy efficiency rating of 81 or higher, or an energy efficiency band A or B. 

Saffron Building Society

Saffron Building Society’s Retro-Fit Mortgage focuses on making energy-efficient improvements to older properties, rather aiming for the best EPC ratings. 

Saffron Building Society senior product manager Laura Bright explains: “It’s a standard residential mortgage – for purchase or remortgage – but with an added reward for borrowers who improve the energy efficiency of their home. 

“If a customer improves their EPC rating (to a minimum of Band E), within the first six months of their mortgage, we will apply a 0.10% rate reduction for the remainder of the fixed rate period. So simply put, you improve the EPC, we improve the rate.”

Nationwide

Nationwide also focuses on improving the energy efficiency of existing homes with its Green Additional Borrowing product launched in March 2020. The further advance product is only available to existing Nationwide mortgage customers. 

It offers rate reductions of up to 0.69% on Nationwide’s existing two and five-year fixed further advance rates. This means rates start from 1%, with no product fee, with customers able to borrow up to £25,000.

At least half of the money must be used to fund a range of sustainable enhancements, from solar panels and boiler upgrades, to traditional insulation and electric vehicle charging stations.

In April 2021, Nationwide launched the Green Reward - a cashback offer for those purchasing an existing house, flat or new build with a Standard Assessment Procedure (SAP) rating of at least 86+, which is equivalent to an Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) rating of A or a high B.

Those purchasing a home with an SAP rating of 92 or above (EPC-A rated) will benefit from £500 cashback, while those buying an SAP-rated property of 86-91 (high EPC-B rating) will receive £250.

Just Group

Older homeowners looking to release equity should look at Just Group’s green lifetime mortgage which launched in July 2020. It offers discounted interest rates to lifetime mortgage customers whose property has an A or B-rated EPC. 

Qualifying customers receive a 10bps (basis points) discount on their mortgage rate and a £50 contribution to the cost of the EPC. 

Ecology Building Society

Ecology Building Society offers an energy improvements mortgage suitable for self builders, and borrowers carrying out renovations or conversions.

The society’s C-Change Discounts enable borrowers to save up to 1.5% off their mortgage rate by improving the energy efficiency of their home. 

Qualifying improvements include:

• insulation
• double or triple glazing
• efficient heating systems
• solar panels
• photovoltaics
• wind turbines
• ground source heat pumps
• biomass heating.

The level of the C-Change discount applied is based on the EPC rating achieved on the self build, renovation or conversion when the work is completed. 

For the discount to be applied, the borrower will need to provide evidence of the work done and the property’s EPC.

How Do Rates on Green Mortgages Compare?

Matthew Fleming-Duffy, mortgage broker at Cherry Mortgage and Finance, says that only one green mortgage product has ever really been competitive – but it’s not at the moment.

“Under the Saffron option, if you were remortgaging your home or buying a home up to 80% of the value of that property, Saffron had a two-year fixed rate at 1.47%. That was a competitive deal in itself, but most importantly if you improve the EPC rating of your home in six months by at least one band and to at least a Band E, then that rate dropped by 0.1%,” he explains.

“So, that made that two-year fixed rate 1.37%, which was pretty much the best two-year fixed rate mortgage on the market at 80% loan-to-value. But that product rate has recently increased to 2.17% so it is no longer competitive when compared with other options available in the market.” 

If you can look past an unloved property's outward appearance and see its hidden potential, a renovation project could be the route to your dream home. 

However, when it comes to renovating a house, it's only too easy for a dream project to turn into a nightmare if you make just a few simple mistakes. Renovation projects do not start with a clean slate, after all, so you may find you inherit a number of issues with your home, especially with an older property, that can stretch your budget to its limits. 

Unless you're well-practiced in buying properties to renovate, it's only too easy to make a few mistakes along the way that can eat up precious funds, cause disputes and leave you living in a half-finished home. 

We've listed the most common 25 mistakes you may encounter on a renovation project, and what steps you can take to avoid making them. 

1. Insufficient Research 

No matter how organised or experienced you are, renovating is a stressful and time consuming process, so unless a project is guaranteed to give you either your dream home, or make you money, you are taking on the wrong property. You want to renovate, not rebuild. At auction, novice investors sometimes ‘buy blind’. 

But more experienced and savvy builders will often commission a preliminary building survey to flag up hidden dangers, defects and structural botches, works where consent should have been obtained (but may not have been), as well as location risks such as obscure rights of way, flooding and radon. 

If you’re buying an old property, check whether it’s a listed building, as this will severely limit the changes you can make, plus as a new owner you’re legally liable for rectifying any past illegal works, often at huge expense. Generally, unless you have a bottomless budget, avoid:

• properties built to a substandard quality, such as some cheaper Victorian terraces built without firebreak party walls in lofts and with worryingly thin single brick rear additions (which cause problems with mortgage lenders)
• those that have suffered botched alterations such as chimney breasts and internal walls illegally removed without Building Regulations’ consent.

Anything likely to need expensive structural work is best avoided, or your budget will vanish surprisingly fast on hidden defects to drains and roof structures rather than fittings and finishes. Instead, try to find houses in shabby decorative condition which look ‘worse than they are’, just needing a decorative makeover and some updating to kitchens and bathrooms.

2. Buy Without a Survey

Don’t wait to discover damp, rot, subsidence or other major structural defects until it is too late. Find out as much about a property as possible before you buy, or before you start any work. A building survey undertaken by a Chartered Building Surveyor will provide information on the type of construction and materials used, and will give details of any defects found, their remedy and an indication of the likely cost. 

It is also worth commissioning a measured survey of the building, providing you with a detailed set of floorplans and elevations upon which to base your proposed design alterations.

3. Ignore Rules and Regulations

There is no point in ignoring the requirements of the law, as it will eventually catch up with you, so do not undertake any work without first checking the following:

• Do you need planning permission? 
• Do you need Building Regulations approval? 
• Do you need to notify neighbours? Check the Party Wall Act.
• Do you need to notify leaseholders or get permission from others? Check your deeds for restrictive covenants, leases or other overriding interests in the land

If you fail to get planning permission, you can apply retrospectively, but if this fails you may have to undo alterations or extensions. Altering a listed building without consent is a criminal offence. If you fail to get Building Regulations approval, you will have to prove compliance. This may mean undoing completed work. 

(MORE: Building Regulations for Extensions)

If you fail to observe the Party Wall Act, it can lead to an injunction and delay your project whilst you get an agreement in place. Breaching a restrictive covenant or the terms of a lease can lead to an injunction, and you may have to make a financial settlement or remove your alterations or extensions.

4. Not Look After the Pennies

‘Wouldn’t that look nice?’ Last-minute impulse purchases, plus design changes, once a quote has been accepted and work is underway on site can play havoc with costings.

• Keep a generous contingency sum, say 10 to 20 per cent of the overall build budget
• Try not to lavish money on expensive frivolous fittings such as designer ‘tree stump’ radiators
• Don’t waste money on unnecessary works, such as ineffective damp treatments
• Make do and mend — in older properties repair can often be a better option than replacement and is normally a lot cheaper
• Keep the design simple, eschewing complex custom-designed vaulted zinc roofs and suchlike.

Keeping a lid on costs also depends on good communication, so it’s worth scheduling regular builder-client site meetings. This should prevent misunderstandings over small details which otherwise have a nasty habit of growing into expensive disputes. 

(MORE: 9 Inspiring Budget Renovation Projects)

Before the build starts, it’s important to think about the details — light switches, sockets, radiators, taps, basins and so on, so the builders know exactly what’s required.

5. Under Order Materials 

Logic dictates that you shouldn’t waste money buying more stuff than you actually need. But it’s a false economy to order too few materials and risk work being held up because you’re a few tiles short. 

Most materials come in standard pack sizes, so quantities of things like insulation, bricks and blocks need to be rounded up. Contractors know that an allowance needs to be made for breakage, both in delivery and on site. Reclaimed materials for renovation projects have an even higher wastage factor. 

You may need to over-order by up to 20 per cent on second-hand bricks, slates and tiles compared to around five per cent for new. Better order too much than not enough. Any surplus can usually be sold or returned.

6. Underestimate Costs

Renovation work always costs more than you expect. This is because some problems are not revealed until you start work and uncover them, but mostly because items are forgotten from the budget, or because you change your mind and alter the design or specification. 

Professional renovators always leave a contingency of between 10-20% to cover these costs and fully expect to have to spend it. There are also a lot of ‘hidden’ costs that people sometimes forget to include, which often isn’t included in quotes, including:

• professional fees for surveyors, architects and engineers
• fees for planning and Building Control
• fees for arranging funding
• VAT

A lot of homeowners only discover halfway through the works that their plans are completely unachievable on their budget. So it’s essential to research prices in advance. 

Drawings need to be translated into a list of materials and labour. Materials are fairly easy to check online but labour rates are harder to predict, varying considerably depending on market forces — how busy builders are — and the geographical area (prices tend to be higher in posh postcode areas). Obtaining competitive quotes based on clear drawings and specifications should help pin costs down in advance. 

(MORE: 15 Ways to Stay on Budget)

Before you can start to predict costs, you need to have a good idea of your proposed plans, your specification for fixtures and fittings, and have decided who is doing what. To estimate costs, look at other people’s projects and expect to spend a similar amount, taking into account how much work they did themselves, when the project was completed, and the variation in labour costs. 

Alternatively, get a builder’s estimate. This is a builder’s best guess of what your renovation project is going to cost, based on what they can see and the information you have provided them with. This is not a quote and the builder cannot be held to it, but an experienced builder should be able to give a fairly accurate guess. 

Finally, prepare your own budget by listing all tasks, the materials required, and who is going to do the work. You can then go out and get quotes for materials and estimates for each trade. Make sure you allow for skips, scaffold hire, plant hire, and tools.

7. Blow the Budget on Unnecessary Work

Aspiring renovators sometimes get so focused on getting the desired ‘visual result’ with fabulous kitchen designs, décor and so on, that they risk running out of money for works to the building envelope — sometimes referred to as the ‘unseens’. If you don’t prioritise key works, such as leaking roofs, timber decay and structural movement, it won’t be long before deterioration of the fabric takes hold, at which point it might be a matter of some regret that so much of the budget was showered on top-of-the-range designer appliances. 

(MORE: Underpinning and Causes of Structural Movement Explained) 

Many renovators also have a tendency to underestimate the level of work required to upgrade existing services such as electrics and heating systems to make them fit for purpose. A lot of unnecessary work can be prevented in period properties (1930s and older) by adopting a ‘repair not replace’ approach. 

Overhauling original doors and windows and retaining period features is often cheaper than replacement, adding value in the process by enhancing period character. In many cases, the original door and window timbers and joinery were of far better quality than today’s equivalents. Fitting secondary glazing to original windows is often a good ‘best of both worlds’ solution. If modern double-glazed units have misted, you can save a lot of work by replacing just the glazing panels, rather than the whole window. 

(MORE: Window Repair Guide) 

Localised repair of a roof may be all that’s needed in most cases. Surveyors can sometimes pass premature death sentences when there may be another 10 or 20 years’ lifespan left.

8. Pick the Cheapest Builders

When the housing market is buoyant there’s usually a high demand for building services, making it hard to find a builder at a reasonable price. It can be tempting to pick the cheapest builder who can start next week, but if a quote price is super-cheap there’s normally a good reason: perhaps they forgot to include something, or simply just got their sums wrong. 

Either way, the builder will realise they’re working at a loss. And if they walk off the job, it will cost you dearly to get someone else to finish it, with all the hassle that goes with that. It may be cheaper in the long run to go for a medium-range price rather than risk work being skimped to recoup losses, leaving you with a badly done job. 

If your project is not time critical, employing ‘friends of friends’ or friends on ‘mates’ rates’ may work, but more often than not something else will come up on the day when they promised to finish your job, which could then hold up the following trades.

9. Hire Cowboy Builders

Renovation can turn into a nightmare if your builders or subcontractors fail to do a good job. Always be suspicious of an estimate or quote that is considerably cheaper than all the others, or someone who is available for work immediately. Ask for references, and speak to their previous clients.

• Is confident of undertaking the required work
• Understands the job and what is involved
• Has undertaken similar work before
• Will provide details of previous clients
• Seems to understand what you are trying to achieve

Ask their previous clients…

• What was the builder like to work with?
• Was the work of a satisfactory standard?
• Was the project completed on time?
• Was the project completed on budget?
• Were they neat, tidy and reasonably quiet?
• Would they use them again?

10. Use the Wrong Materials

The golden rule when refurbishing older buildings with solid walls is to use traditional materials that are compatible with the way they were originally built, i.e. lime-based mortars, renders and plasters, rather than anything containing modern cement. 

Old buildings with shallow foundations are affected by seasonal ground movement and because cement is very brittle it tends to develop small cracks. This allows rain to penetrate, which then can’t escape. Modern paints applied to walls can also cause trouble by blocking natural evaporation. 

Trapped damp can then precipitate serious frost damage in masonry walls. However, not all builders are familiar with lime, often preferring to stick with mainstream products. So you need to be clear that the trades you employ have the necessary skills.

(MORE: How to Treat Damp)

To avoid creating new damp problems: 

• Avoid replacing soft lime mortars with hard cement mixes when repointing brickwork.
• Avoid hard cement renders on traditional solid-walled buildings — use a breathable, flexible limecrete mix.
• Do not use waterproof paint or sealant on a traditional solid-walled building.
• Avoid hard cement backing for gypsum plaster on the inside of the external walls in solid-walled buildings.
• Ensure materials are visually sympathetic. Avoid stone cladding, pebbledash, roughcast or PVCu on a period building.

11. Be Tempted by ‘Miracle Cures’

When renovating a property it can sometimes be tempting to give heavily advertised ‘miracle cure’ treatments a try, lured by extraordinary claims such as ‘never paint again’, ‘seal leaks for good — instantly’ or ‘the ultimate solution to all roofing problems’. But some of these products can actually be very damaging when applied to older buildings. 

Spray-on renders and polyurethane foams can block crucial ventilation paths in walls and roofs, and despite claims to the contrary offer virtually zero insulation benefits. Instant damp sealants are rarely effective and can trap damp in walls. Basically, if something sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

12. Ignore Your Area's Price Ceiling 

You may be a genius renovator but you could still come a cropper. Every street has an invisible ceiling that dictates how much buyers are prepared to pay, no matter how many tennis courts and basement gyms you add. The quality of fittings needs to be closely geared to the expectations and demands of the market sector the property is likely to appeal to. 

At one extreme, it would obviously be a false economy to deck out an historic Georgian townhouse in the opulent end of town with cheap MDF joinery and foam ceiling tiles. Conversely ‘the best house in the worst street’ syndrome is a recipe for disappointment. It sounds obvious, but this is a surprisingly common lapse of judgement.

13. Remove Period Detail

Removing original period windows and exterior doors can destroy a period property’s character, and its value, unless they are sympathetically replaced. Authentic replicas are expensive, so always consider repair as a first option. 

Cheaper, off-the shelf joinery is rarely appropriate and is unlikely to fit the original openings and so will look wrong. If the original external joinery has already been removed, research neighbouring properties or books to find appropriate styles. Avoid modern hybrid products, such as front doors with built-in fanlights. 

Try and observe the techniques and materials used in the building’s original construction and try and repair, or replace, on a like-for-like basis. Internally, try and preserve original doors, floorboards, fireplaces and plaster mouldings if they are still intact. 

(MORE: Old Timber Frame Buildings: Repair and Maintenance) 

Most features are not purely decorative, but also have a practical purpose, either structural or cosmetic, and removal is only likely to necessitate an alternative solution. Conservation is cost-efficient and ecological.

14. Buy Bargain Materials

Buying materials that are incredibly cheap is usually a false economy. For a start, anything obviously ‘cheap and nasty’ is likely to detract from the value of the finished property. 

To comply with Building Regulations, the drawings will specify the correct strength class of timber, and concrete blocks of the required density and thermal efficiency to ensure they can support loadings and meet energy targets. So you can’t just use any old stuff. 

Quality can be difficult to determine from blurry online product photos. It’s also not unknown for stolen goods to be flogged off cheap via internet auction sites, and if you innocently buy something that turns out to be stolen, legally they can be reclaimed by the original owner at your expense. 

Sourcing cheap materials from overseas can also be a minefield and specifying UK-compliant materials with appropriate K-values and so on can be fraught with linguistic problems.

15. Make Negative Value Improvements

Avoid spending large amounts of money on misguided works that actually reduce the property’s value. Kerb appeal is obviously fundamental when it comes to attracting buyers, so doing anything that messes up an older building’s appearance, no matter how well-intentioned, can be counter-productive. 

The prime example of this is artificial stone cladding glued to the walls, which apart from looking dire has a tendency over time to start cracking with bits dropping off, blocking windows and air vents. Widening and enlarging window openings can create an instant ‘character transplant’, and putting plastic fascias and windows into period buildings is one of the quickest ways of losing money by slashing their market value.

(MORE: How to Renovate for Profit)

16. Take on Too Much DIY

Undertaking work yourself can allow you to control costs and quality, but don’t be over-ambitious and plan to do more work than you really have time — or the skill — to undertake successfully. You could end up slowing the whole project down and living in a building site for years, which can in turn lead to family conflicts and potentially to accidents. 

(MORE: DIY: What Should be Left to the Professionals)

Bad DIY will also cost you dearly, slowing down the other trades, wasting materials, sometimes causing work to be done twice, and ultimately devaluing the property if it is not put right. You can get so tied up in DIY work that you lose focus on running the project and keeping up with decisions.

Before committing to the DIY-intensive route, it can be worth asking yourself:

• How time critical is the project? If you’re relaxed about deadlines there’ll be greater freedom to plough your own furrow
• Are you tough enough? Sitting at a desk all day doesn’t build physical strength, so you’ll struggle to work anywhere near as fast as the professionals
• How much time can you commit? DIY generally takes longer than you imagine
• What are your skills? Perhaps consider doing the decoration towards the end when there’s less time pressure or focus on the project management role
• In the cold light of day, it often makes more sense to earn more money in your job so you can employ professionals on site, rather than taking on time-consuming DIY tasks yourself

17. Not Listen to Your Builder’s Advice

There’s a certain amount of paranoia among the public when it comes to dealing with builders. The fact is, most builders try to do a decent job, often despite late payment and awkward clients giving them a lot of grief. Individual tradespeople can actually be a mine of valuable experience. 

Of course, sometimes there’s an ulterior motive to drum up business. But it’s often the case that the person tasked with doing the job will know a better, less expensive or simpler solution in a specific area than designers focused on the bigger picture. Trades also tend to have a useful knowledge of materials and local suppliers, potentially helping you save time and money. So don’t automatically disregard advice from the person doing the job.

(MORE: 5 Things you Should Never say to Your Builder)

18. Leave Builders to Make Decisions

Renovating involves making countless decisions, from which improvements to make and the choice of fixtures and fittings, down to the route for new services such as plumbing, or how details should be finished off. Many of these decisions need to be made quickly if they are not to hold up work, and so you need to allow time for this, based on what will be the most practical and aesthetically pleasing solution.

If you leave such decisions to builders, they will invariably do whatever is easiest and quickest for them, and this can look awful. The trouble is, once the work is done, you have to pay twice if you later want to make changes and the builders will hate you for it too. A good builder should warn you well in advance of the decisions that they need you to make. Listen to them, spend time on site visits, and keep up to speed.

19. Scrimp on the Design

A good design scheme can transform a property and its value, and is worth every penny. Poor design, or no design at all, can cause the following problems:

• Ill-judged applications could prejudice the planning process, leading to refusal and planning blight.
• Poor design can squander potential, waste space and fail to maximise value.
• Over-complicated design can add unnecessary costs and delays.
• Failing to listen to your brief and objectives can lead to an unsatisfactory result, wasted time and fees.
• Lack of detail or errors can cause delays and complications on site and expose you to charges for variations to the contract.

20. Take the Wrong Energy-Saving Measures

The energy saved by installing double glazing in place of single will take 15-20 years to pay itself back, by which time you may have moved on. There is no point, therefore, in replacing period windows that could be repaired just to save energy. Instead, focus your budget on those energy-saving measures with the shortest payback. These are as follows:

• Draught exclusion
• Energy-efficient light bulbs
• Hot water tank and pipe insulation
• Loft insulation
• Cavity wall insulation
• Upgrading to a condensing boiler

It is worth investigating whether your local authority operates any grants to help with energy-efficiency measures by calling or visiting their website. Grants and VAT relief are also available on some energy-efficiency measures.

 Visit www.est.org.uk for details.

21. Extend Bit by Bit 

Do not renovate your property by making small, half-hearted additions, as and when money allows. It is common to find an old cottage that has had several small extensions added, on an almost room-by-room basis, with flat roofs, lean-tos, boxy conservatories, and other carbuncles bolted onto every elevation. 

Such additions eventually cripple a property, both in its ability to function as a home with a fluid layout, and in terms of value. Difficult though it is, it is often best to take a step or two backwards before moving forwards, by demolishing such additions and taking the building back to its original form before extending and remodelling. 

Unfortunately, sometimes this previous legacy of improvements has added just enough value to make their removal unviable financially.

22. Waste the Existing Space

Before making plans to add an extension to your renovation project, consider how you can use the existing space. There are many measures that will help to make a property feel more spacious and which will add to its value, yet which cost a fraction of the price of extending. Think about an attic, cellar or garage conversion or converting other attached outbuildings. 

The following ideas can be applied to any property but are particularly appropriate to those where space is an issue:

• Reuse wasted circulation space
• Use carefully positioned mirrors
• Use a space-efficient staircase
• Create mezzanine levels
• Improve the flow, adding doorways
• Change the direction a door swings in, or use sliders or bi-folds
• Knock down internal walls and remodel
• Use space-efficient furniture with dual purposes
• Add patio doors to create the illusion of the garden being part of the house
• Improve lighting design
• Use informal room dividers
• Use space-efficient storage
• Combine rooms — such as open plan living/kitchen/dining room layouts
• Use borrowed light
• Install space-efficient heating

23. Work in the Wrong Order

A typical hierarchy of works for the renovation of a derelict property is as follows:

• Stop further decay: Keep out the elements. Take out buildings insurance, including public liability
• Stabilise the building: Make the site safe to work on. This might mean underpinning or piling work to stabilise existing foundations, the insertion of steel tension rods or ties to stop lateral spread, or the insertion of steel props, beams or scaffold to prevent further collapse before repairs
• Strip back and salvage: Private individuals can get rid of waste for free at local authority tips. Salvage anything of value and store for reuse or sell on via eBay or a salvage yard
• Undertake major building work: Build or replace any floors, walls, roofs or extensions. Carry out any re-pointing, injecting of DPCs, tanking, rendering, chemical treatments etc. If possible, only break through to the existing structure once the new work is complete
• Make the shell weathertight: Once the roof structure is complete, the structure should be made weathertight. Exterior doors and windows should be installed and glazed, or covered with boards
• First fix: Build internal stud walls, fix floorboards, door linings, window reveals and cills and then undertake first fix plumbing and electrics
• Re-plaster/repair plaster: Apply plasterboard/dry-lining to walls and ceilings, or repair any damaged plaster. Floor screeds for the ground floor will be laid at this point
• Second fix: Lay timber, stone or tiled floors, hang doors, fix skirting and architrave, box in services. Install the bathroom, kitchen, boiler and fit radiators. Complete all painting, staining and tiling

24. Make Unsafe Structural Alterations

Removing structural elements such as load-bearing walls, chimney breasts, lintels, columns, piers or buttresses, or cutting out roof timbers without compensating for the alteration can lead to disaster. The building may not collapse — although this is not unheard of — but it will lead to major movement in the building, followed by all manner of problems, from stuck windows and doors to warped floors and partial collapse of walls, roof or chimney stack. 

An experienced builder will be able to identify which components are structural and how to compensate for their removal. The building inspector will want to know of any changes and how you propose to deal with them, and they may request calculations from a structural engineer.

25. Pay Too Much Tax

If a contractor is not VAT registered, make sure they do not charge you VAT. If your project is subject to any VAT concessions, make sure that the appropriate rate is charged. If your renovation project is a conversion or the renovation of a dwelling that has been empty for ten years or more, then it is largely zero-rated for VAT. Your contractors should charge a reduced rate on eligible labour and materials, and you can claim this back, together with any standard-rated VAT you have paid to buy materials. See HMRC Notice 719 (www.hmrc.gov.uk). 

If you are undertaking major reconstruction of a building that has little architectural merit, consider whether or not it would be more cost-effective to demolish it altogether and start from scratch, as this will save you standard VAT on all eligible labour and materials (you are allowed to leave a basement in place, or a single façade if required to do so by the planners). 

VAT relief is also available for some other types of renovation work, providing it is undertaken by a VAT-registered contractor. Make sure you are charged the right amount.

(MORE: Reclaiming VAT on a Project)

To the uninitiated, the idea of a ‘self build’ can sound like a scary prospect — after all, the name suggests it’s a particularly hands-on way to create the home of your dreams. However, there are several routes to self building a home, each with varying levels of direct involvement from the people who will eventually live in it. 

Which one you choose is entirely down to you, however, you should consider how your own personal circumstances will apply to the process of each build route. 

This includes:

• The cost implications versus your finances 
• How much time you can give to a project
• Your level of skill and expertise 

These three factors are the driving forces of a self build and all have a part to play in your self build decision making. While hiring a project manager will help inexperienced self builders exceed, it’s a large additional cost; while you may want to save money by undertaking the work yourself, but if you have no experience and only the weekends to do so, you’ll find your project in trouble pretty quickly. 

With that in mind, we're looking at the options available for self building and how they may best suit particularly potential self builders. 

What are the Options for Self Build Project Management

When it comes to self build project management, there are many options available (you can even choose to mix and match the options to suit).

Custom Build

It’s important to note that custom build and self build are not interchangeable terms — though we are considering custom build one of our self build routes here. Former housing minister Brandon Lewis said: “The definition of self build covers someone who directly organises the design and construction of their new home, while custom build covers someone who commissions a specialist developer to help deliver their own home.”

Who is it best for?

Custom build homes come at a premium, so they're not for those looking to self build on a tight budget. They also may not see the same return on investment as other methods.

They do, however, take a lot of the responsibility off your shoulders as a self builder. The developer will have already secured planning permission, and taken care of potentially expensive and stressful tasks such as instating services. 

A design guide will set the parameters for the build, giving you less overall control over the finished home. 

Professionally Managed

Sourcing a professional self build project manager can save you the job of even having to find the main contractor or sort the design. Professionally managed projects come with a price tag and is one of the self build routes that allows for the homeowner to remain most hands off.

Look for a project manager who is experienced in builds similar to yours and has a wealth of local contacts. You will still be needed for decision making, but will have little responsibility for the day-to-day management of the building site.

Who is it best for?

For those who are looking to self build but not undertake any of the work themselves, a project manager is a common choice. They will eat into your budget, but bring with them experience crucial to a successful project. 

DIY

Of the 11,000-plus self builds in the UK between 2016-2017, some 15% used DIY as their primary build route. We also know that those who chose this route were typically younger than the average self builder, had smaller household incomes and built smaller houses.

Perhaps crucially, followers of this self build route also saved up to 25% on their build costs when compared to self-builders who managed their own labour.

Who is it best for?

No matter what your budget, if you have the skills and time to dedicate to getting hands on with your project, it's the most effective way to make the most of your spend and get the best return on investment. 

Self Managed

Self managing your project will require fewer hands-on practical skills than the DIY route, but it does mean that you have to display excellent people, time and finance management skills.

This is the most common of all the self build routes, with over 50% of the completed self-builds between 2016-2017 in the UK choosing this method. This build route saved 17% against appointing a main contractor to oversee the project.

Who is it best for?

Self builders who may not have the skills to build their own home, but can effectively manage a project. For the inexperienced, this will require a lot of time, both spent researching and organising the build, but will mean saving money on an independent project manager. 

Package Build

Package companies, or turnkey providers, aim to do the work you don’t want to do — handling as much or as little of the self build process as you are willing to pay for. 

They will typically use a team of in-house designers to help you come up with your dream home. It’s typically a route that will require a sizeable upfront payment, but is the ‘easiest’ way to create a bespoke, individual home.

Who is it best for?

If you like the end-to-end service idea of a custom build, but want to retain more control over the location, size and more of your home, a turnkey project is a good choice if budget permits. 

Main Contractor

Once the design has been agreed upon, your main role here is to appoint the main contractor or builder who will run the building site, organise the subcontractors and possibly handle all the procurement.

It’s not entirely hands-off however, and you’ll be expected on site and at the end of a phone frequently. Over 20% of self-builders chose this route in the surveyed period.

Who is it best for?

Using a main contractor is a bridge between appointing a project manager and not. While you'll still need to oversee the site, the main contractor will take the extra organising work off your hands, freeing up a lot of time. 

Mix and Match

Many self builders decide to mix and match several of the approaches above. Projects can be split into different sections – commonly up to, and after, weathertight stage is reached – and different approaches taken for each section.

For instance, some package companies might let you take their design services and materials supply up to weathertight stage only. You might feel that you can handle the decorating and landscaping yourself but need a builder to manage the rest of the project for you. You might want a project manager for the critical first half of the build but feel you can handle organising the internal trades yourself.

It is up to you to work out an arrangement that works best.

If you've decided to improve rather than move, you may well be considering extending, and while it can be easy to get carried way envisaging the end results, the path to completion is rarely one that's without the odd bump along the way.

And while we can't claim to guarantee you a build that doesn't have any extension mistakes, we can offer expert advice on some of the pitfalls that are easy to avoid – particularly when you know what they are, and how to avoid them.

After all, building an extension is a big deal and doesn't come without costs and an element of upheaval. Here's what the experts say are some of the most common extension mistakes and how you can make sure you avoid falling foul of them.

Keep your project on track by avoiding these extension mistakes

Although it can be easy to assume an extension is your only option for increasing useable space within your home, it often helps to take a step back first says Steven George, partner and design lead at architectural practise, George & Co.

"One common mistake clients make is thinking an extension is the only solution to the lack of space," he comments. "Instead, it usually helps in the first instance to take a step back and look at the house as a whole.

"While it's not always the case, often we can find wasted space and look to make the current floor plan plan work harder than it currently does instead. After all, extending a property is expensive," he adds. "Extension costs mount up and the end result might not always deal with the problems inside your home – it just allows you to forget about them."

If after careful consideration you do decide that an extension is the only way to get the space you need, make sure you don't fall foul of the following extension mistakes when planning and building your new space.

1. Not engaging with professionals early enough

When looking for inspiration for house extension ideas, don't assume that you have to have everything decided before you engage with professionals. Instead, allow their expertise to guide your decision making process. After all, while your vision matters, knowing how to practically make it happen takes years of training and skills that you may not always have.

"It's never too early to appoint your architect and structural engineer," agrees Paul Testa, director at HEM Architects. "The engineer is often brought in to "engineer" a completed design, but this completely misses the opportunity for their expertise to help shape an easy to build and economic structure.

"This is especially useful when making changes to the existing structure of the house," explains Paul. "Likewise, involving the builder early enough that they can input into build method and specification will ensure a more cost effective build, a more engaged contractor and likely a much better quality end product as they feel more invested in the process and the agreed solutions."

2. Forgetting you need a Party Wall agreement

Unless you're extending a detached house or own a property in a rural setting, it's possible that your extension plans may come close to a neighbouring property. If this is the case, then don't forget to establish if you need a Party Wall agreement advises Charlie Avara, founder of Build by Charlie.

"If you are building an extension that will be within one metre of your property’s boundary then you need to get a Party Wall agreement with your neighbours, which can be a time consuming process," she warns. "Ideally, this should be set in motion when your engineering drawings are done to allow plenty of time.

"In some cases it can be as straightforward as speaking to your neighbour and working with them to get an agreement in place, but if you are looking for a belt and braces approach, engaging a party wall surveyor is advised," says Charlie.

"Not only can they speed the process along but their expertise will give you the peace of mind that the process has been completed properly, saving any future stress."

3. Ignoring the benefit of digging trial pits early on

If you didn't build your current home, or don't have access to any of the Building Regulations drawings drawn up when it was built, you'll need to establish how your house was built in order to know how best to build your new extension. Don't dismiss the importance of trial pits says Paul Testa, or you could end dealing with a money pit.

"Trial pits dug next to your existing house will quickly tell you the depth and capability of the existing foundation system and soil type," explains Paul. "This is important knowledge as it will allow a much more accurate design of the new extension foundations and save you money over a designing for worst case approach, as well as avoiding late changes that might happen without if you don't have these details when you start on site.

"Sometimes spending about £100 getting the soil in your trial pit tested for its bearing capacity can also further help you to reduce costs in the ground."

4. Lack of drainage information can cause delays or even halt a project

"A more serious mistake that could prevent an extension from being built is to not investigate the existing below ground foul water drainage," warns architect, David Nossiter.

"You need to know where it is and who is responsible for its maintenance. If the drainage is shared with another property you may find that the drains are maintained by the local water authority, who will require access to any manholes and you might require a build over agreement."

Paul Testa notes how as a practise, they start every extension project with a recommendation of a CCTV survey of the existing below ground drainage.

"Public sewers (generally anything that carries drainage from another property onto or across your land is considered public) crossing your land can have a significant impact on the scale and position of an extension," explains Paul. "Whilst you can generally get agreement to build over drains, there are always limits to how much you can build over.

"For example, if there is a manhole in a public sewer where you want to build it may completely halt your plan all together unless there's a sensible alteration that can be agreed with the water authority. Whilst less of an issue, even your own private drains can have implications.

"A CCTV survey also confirms the condition of your drainage," he adds, "so that repair and/or replacement can be budgeted in early on, if required."

5. Rushing the design process

Although it can be easy to get carried away with the thought of finally having your dream extension with glass roof, a common extension mistake is rushing towards the finish line without really taking the time to consider if your design meets all of your needs – and suits the rest of the house too.

"Time spent designing the project properly always shows," advises David Nossiter. "It is not simply a case of adding on the back or side. You need to evaluate the character of the existing house, how the spaces work and can be improved, which way the building faces and how the occupants use the building, to name a few aspects.

"For example, every time an extension is added to a building, the existing room that it is attached to loses daylight," he warns, "so do consider this and look at solutions in your glazing to overcome this, such as rooflights."

Moving too quickly with your design can be particularly relevant if you've recently bought a house to renovate, with a view to extending. If your home is habitable as it is, avoid the tendency to rush straight into plans. Living in a home for a while will give you a far better an insight into where changes will make the most impact.

6. Not having a comprehensive schedule of works

Key to having an extension planner that is clear and helps you look ahead is a good schedule of works. It means you will know what is happening when and if you are living on site during the build, allows you to prepare yourself for the more disruptive jobs, both mentally and from a practical perspective.

If you have children or pets for example, you can plan when to make sure they're not on site for the most messy jobs, such as screeding floors or bashing down walls to connect the old with the new.

And, as the build progresses, make sure you are in regular communication with your builders about what is happening and, what will be happening next – especially if you are acting as project manager.

Knowing that the electrician or plumber will be required before work can continue on an aspect of the build, or that materials are going to be needed next week, is vital if things are to keep ticking along at a good pace.

7. Forgetting the impact of the British weather on your build

If circumstances mean you have no flexibility regarding timing and you will be building an extension through winter, don't underestimate the impact this can have on your build. Be sure to allow time contingencies into your plans – they can be as important as budget contingencies and avoid eating into your extra funds.

If you can, try to plan the most disruptive tasks when the weather is warmer. Being able to sit in the garden for meals or work outside can make a huge difference to how you feel about the project when space inside is dusty and messy.

8. Not realising you'll need storage during the build

Whether your extension is an addition to create a larger kitchen or it's part of a bigger remodel, thinking about where to store things as the project gets going is definitely something to consider.

If the extension is an addition then it's likely knocking down of walls will happen to join the existing with the new. At this stage there will be lots of dust and debris so consider where you can store items from the room that's being extended to avoid your belongings getting covered in dust or damaged. Do you have enough room in your home to move it? Can you store it in a garage for example? If your kitchen is being extended will it be out of action for a while? Think about where you can decamp the fridge, microwave and essentials to.

If the extension is part of a larger project, consider whether it's worth putting items from rooms that'll be off limits in storage to get them off site to give trades, and you, more space to work and live.

9. Underestimating what it's like to live on site

As someone who's lived on site while renovating and extending, it's not something to undertake lightly. Don't underestimate how much muck, mess, dust and debris can be involved with an extension project. It will all depend on the amount of work that's involved with the extension, but don't assume it'll be easy to live with, especially if you're adding a two-storey extension that will impact both upstairs and downstairs.

Remember that tradesmen will require access to water and electrics – think about how you can make provision for that in a manner that causes the least disruption to your own daily life.

10. Failing to research your tradespeople properly

Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but barely of any use when extending a home. So, when someone recommends a tradesperson, don't just take their word for it. Do your research, ask to see their work and speak to other clients before you sign on the dotted line.

We all have different standards and what may be considered good work by someone, might not actually match your own expectations.

Employing skilled tradespeople who you can trust is well worth the investment to avoid unfinished or bad quality work or arguments. Do your homework, ask them questions about how they work, what insurance and warranties they have and find a good builder and/or sub contractors based on a combination of all these elements. Don't just opt for the cheapest quote.

11. Thinking you won't need a contingency budget

There is nothing like a half-finished project, ground to a halt by an empty bank account, to get you down. Get fixed quotes rather than estimates where you can and try to have a contingency fund (around 10 to 20 percent) to give yourself a bit of breathing space when the unexpected crops up.

12. Falling prey to decision fatigue

"Something that can happen with projects such as renovations and extensions is decision fatigue," says David Nossiter.

"From initial plans through to choosing your contractor and finishing touches every stage has multiple important decisions for the homeowner to make. As projects progress homeowners can begin to feel overwhelmed by the choices they are asked to make (often under time pressure) and opt for materials, finishes or fixtures that they regret later.

"Changing these choices later on can be extremely costly," warns David, "so there are a few things that you can do to alleviate some of the stress. Your contractor will likely have suppliers that they can recommend, who they trust will deliver on quality.

"Not only this, but they will be able to advise on most suitable materials for certain spaces. Investing in an interior designer can be well worth the expense," he adds. "Although it is an additional cost, it will provide clear direction throughout the project and might save on costly alterations, ensuring that you end up creating the space you dreamed of."

13. Constantly changing plans once the work has started

It's inevitable that you'll make a few changes as your extension takes shape, but be conscious of making large mistakes that could incur costs and cause delays.

If you've lived in your home for a while and understand how an extension is going to improve it, the design should, from the outset detail everything you want from it, so be sure to go over it with a fine tooth comb before you start on site, especially once your extension costs are agreed.

"You should avoid making changes to the design once you have agreed the price for the works," confirms David Nossiter. "Termed variations, unless very carefully planned can impact on the programme of the build and may mean that you end up paying for additional on site costs, as well as the individual items in question."

14. Not snagging early or efficiently enough

Reached the final finish line but suddenly spot mistakes? This could be because you've made the mistake of not extension snagging soon enough – or well enough.

"An extension should be snagged at every single stage," says Charlie Avara. "Each time a subcontractor or tradesperson completes their work it should be snagged, such as after the first fix of plumbing or electrics. Or once the plaster board has gone up and the plasterer has been, this work needs to be snagged.

"If the plasterer were to leave gaps or an uneven finish then your decorator might charge you more to rectify this in order to complete their work," explains Charlie. "Each time a tradesperson completes a stage of work there should be a walk through to ensure that everything is as it should be. If you have a contractor or project manager they can do this with you as they will know what to look out for.

"Minimising the risk of snagging becoming an extension mistake you'll regret really boils down to constant quality control," says Charlie. "Walk through the project regularly, ask questions, refer to plans and use the expertise of those involved in the project."

FAQs

Do I need extension insurance?

By taking on a significant building project, like an extension, you could invalidate your existing home insurance policy. It only takes one mishap to completely derail a building project, and raise the question of who is legally, and financially, responsible.

Secure piece of mind by taking out a specialist policy for your project.

Our final advice to avoiding extension mistakes? Don't forget the day-to-day running of the site and the fact your build team may need to access your house. Consider if you really want them to, or if you need to consider making provision for extra amenities.

Things that may seem low down in terms of priorities on your to-do list can actually make all the difference. Take the provision for toilets, for example. You might think you are ok with tradesmen using yours, but you may change your mind after weeks of having builders traipsing in and out of your already disrupted home with muddy boots and dusty clothes – making a tricky situation worse.

Some contractors will provide their own portable chemical toilets and it's probably an option worth considering. Also make sure there is sufficient provision in the budget for enough skips to avoid piles of rubble hanging around which could cause a health and safety hazard for your home's inhabitants.

Whether you're choosing to project manage your extension yourself, or looking to understand what's involved in the different stages of building an extension, having an extension planner to hand is essential.

Covering all the different jobs that need to take place, along with where they sit in the overall scheme will give you a better grasp of what's ahead, as well as the resources you'll need for each step of the way.

And while the extension planner for each project will be tailored to suit, the key stages will follow a logical programme of works to ensure each element is completed at the right time, and within budget. We've broken a standard schedule down into 12 steps so you can clearly anticipate what needs to happen and when.

Why you need an extension planner 

In a similar way to building a house, whether you're planning on a simple single storey extension idea or a much grander wrap around extension, any construction programme should clearly outline a project’s scope of work, identify timescales, lead times, development phases and durations. Project budgets and cashflow can also be incorporated to assist with financial control.

And while the extension schedule here is based on a single storey kitchen extension, getting any type of building out of the ground involves the same process. For larger projects, or a double storey extension, the main thing that will change is the timings –the work required will still follow the same logical steps from A to Z.

Likewise, if you live in the property while the work is taking place, this may add extra time too. If this is you, then using an extension planner is even more important so you know when you can expect the most disruption.

The other benefit of using and having an extension planner in advance? It will help you to establish a schedule of works to send out to tender in order to get a fair set of quotes.

"It is critical that a schedule of works and specification document is submitted to all the builders who are tendering for the work," advises Charlie Avara, founder of Build by Charlie. "If you just provide a set of drawings with no specification document, each builder will assume their own spec for the materials – and these can vary in cost significantly.

"Likewise, the schedule of works will list out all elements to be priced for. For example, the installation of the finished flooring may not be shown on the drawings, but you may want this included in the cost breakdown. The schedule of works and the specification document will eradicate any ‘assumptions’ and will enable you to compare apples for apples."

Step one: Finalise conditions and arrange insurance

Before starting to build, you must ensure you have given appropriate consideration to the level of pre-construction information required for the scope and scale of the project.

Make sure you have discharged any ‘pre-commencement’ planning conditions before work begins on site. Planning conditions can be areas related to service connections, trees or access and have to be resolved before building begins, otherwise you could face enforcement action.

Also check that your existing home insurance policy covers any works that are undertaken as part of an extension project. Avoid any nasty (and expensive) surprises later down the line by getting in touch with your insurance provider and checking what is and isn’t covered.

To make sure your home is properly insured during substantial home improvements, you’ll often need a specialist policy, such as those offered by Self Build Zone

Step two: Stabilise building and make safe

In the case of those adding an extension while renovating a house, before any works commence, the existing building needs to be made safe, as it will become a ‘place of work’ if you employ a builder, tradespeople, or have anyone else helping you on site.

This means cutting off the power and water to any building services to be removed, and providing temporary power and water supplies for the construction works as part of the ‘site setup’.

Undertaking an asbestos survey is essential in order to ensure the building is free of potentially life-threatening contamination. Any asbestos found must be removed safely in accordance with guidance from the Health and Safety Executive (HSE).

Step three: Strip back and salvage

Once the site is safe, any demolition work can be undertaken to dismantle parts of the building that are being removed or altered. Used building materials often have value, and salvaging them for reuse on your site, or selling them for reuse elsewhere through a salvage yard will help with the sustainability of the project.

"When removing old extensions in order to add a new one, rather than filling endless skips with the resulting rubble, we covered the lawn and stock piled everything," says Sarah Harley, Homebuilding & Renovating's website assistant editor, who has extended a number of different properties.

"We then hired a specialist machine which ground the rubble down into correctly sized material that we could use in the extension foundations. It saved money both in terms of materials and skip hire, and it also felt we were able to add some sustainability into the scheme."

When replacing an old extension, a ‘soft strip out’ contract is often the first stage of a more extensive renovation or extension project and can involve the removal of all old building services (wiring, heating and plumbing), stripping old decorative finishes back to plasterwork, or the removal of plaster back to the brick or masonry to facilitate the repairs and rebuilding work.

This stage will usually involve making sure you've included scaffolding costs to provide access. If a full scaffold is required to cover all or part of the building due to removal of the roof, a structural engineer’s design is a legal requirement. Be sure to notify the local authority of the demolition works too.

Step four: Treat any structural issues

Before, or alongside undertaking building work to alter or extend your home, it is important to solve any issues such as rising damp, insect infestation and fungal infestation. It is especially important to remove all timber elements affected by dry rot and to treat the building with appropriate fungicide.

Unlike the less dangerous wet rot, dry rot is able to spread through damp brickwork and into plaster, allowing it to spread throughout a building with ease. It is one of the most difficult types of rot to treat and can even lead to timber and brickwork collapsing in extreme cases.

Although damp treatments, insecticide and fungicide are all available on the DIY market, it is best to leave this work to specialist contractors that will provide an insurance-backed guarantee.

Step five: Major structural works

This is the main part of the building contract and involves the heavy building work to add your extension, or undertake the remodelling work of an existing one.

If you are adding a new extension and not removing any previous buildings, it's also the point when your main contractor or builder will set up the site and begin to bring in the necessary tools, machinery, equipment and materials to start work. If remodelling, they will likely have already set up to complete any strip out or remedial work.

On larger projects, facilities such as a site cabin and a toilet will take up residence in your garden, although smaller extension ideas may not require quite as much infrastructure.

As well as the logistical set up, it’s also the point at which your builder will mark out the extension on the ground.

"While you shouldn’t need to get your tape measure out and check, it’s worth making sure it’s in line with what you expected from the plans," says Sarah Harley. "If you have any concerns be sure to make yourself heard – waiting to speak could lead to costly changes further down the line or even result in building control or planning not signing off the work."

Once you're ready to go, this is where the work really begins. Groundworks, foundations, wall and the different types of extension roof construction will all take place to form the completed superstructure for your extension. Door and window openings will be created and it's again worth making sure they are all where they should be, says Sarah, who discovered you can still miss things regardless of how rigorous you are.

"Although the plans had been checked over and over again, it wasn't until this stage that we noticed a problem with some clerestory windows in the design," she explains.

"A few were falling where an internal wall needed to be. Some last minute decisions meant we were able to fix the problem, but it's why it pays to make sure either you, your architect, or project manager are monitoring what's happening on site."

Initially you'll have groundworkers on site, quickly followed by bricklayers, carpenters, roofers and general building operatives to install drainage systems and service risers and insulation – although it's worth noting that works to connect any new drainage runs to the existing drainage network will usually be left until the heavy building work is complete and the scaffold has been dropped.

Once the roof covering is completed and any external cladding is in place, the gutters and downpipes (rainwater goods) can be fitted and any external decoration and mastic sealing work needed outdoors will be undertaken. The scaffold can then be dropped unless you're adding a double storey extension, in which case you’ll need more scaffolding as the build progresses and you add in the second floor.

Throughout this stage, you can also expect several visits from building control to check the works in progress are in line with what’s been agreed.

"It's worth noting that you have the option to work with private approved building inspector as opposed to the local authority," notes Charlie Avara. "The plans will need to be submitted to them at least 5 days before starting on site and its best to ask your builder who they prefer working with."

Step six: Make the shell weathertight

Before internal works commence, the building should be made secure and weathertight once the superstructure is in place. This means the roof is completed (at least covered if not fully tiled) and all window and door openings are closed up. In most cases this will mean the roof is tiled and the doors and windows are installed fully glazed, but if these are not yet on site, or the glazing is considered to be too vulnerable to install while works are still underway, then temporary works can be used to close up the building.

To accelerate a building programme, it is possible to make parts of a building weathertight e.g. often the top attic storey or upstairs storey, and to seal it off and commence first fix while the heavy building work continues on lower storeys.

Often, home improvement projects such as extensions and loft conversions are made weathertight and then completed to plastered-out stage before the demolition work to ‘knock through’ to the existing dwelling is undertaken. This can be an excellent way to separate building works from the existing home, especially if you are still living on site during the project. During the knock through stage it is best to move out for a few days or one to two weeks.

Door linings and window boards followed by windows and doors will need to be added next in order to finish securing the exterior of your extension. It’s also the point at which any outstanding work to join your extension to your existing home may take place. Although of course if undertaking a larger project involving external walls being removed, this will have happened sooner.

Step seven: First fix

If you’ve left it until now to decide on your kitchen design, bathrooms, lighting, heating and electrical plans I’m sorry to say you’re behind schedule. These ideally need deciding when your plans are being drawn up, as no-one wants to channel out a freshly plastered wall in a few weeks' time when you’ve realised you forgot to add wall lights or a socket for your oven.

Depending on how a new extension impacts your existing home’s wiring and plumbing, this will also be the stage when any changes are made to the rest of your home so that the two spaces start to work together.

Ahead of commencing first fix, all stud partition walls (timber or metal studwork that will be finished with plasterboard later, as opposed to solid masonry walls) also need to be completed. An external power supply for outdoor lighting, electric gates, water features etc, also need to be in place at the first fix stage.

Why? First fix primarily involves all of the internal works that need to be completed prior to screeding the floors and plastering the walls. Insulation and buildings services (wiring, plumbing, heating pipework and control wiring, mechanical ventilation will all be concealed by the screed and plaster finishes), so it is therefore essential to have finalised all buildings service layouts prior to starting the first fix stage.

First fix also includes fitting the door and window linings around openings so that plasterers have a profile to work to.

Once complete, the floors will be screeded to the levels ready for the floor finishes. It's also the reason why before the screeding commences it is essential to have chosen all the floor finishes. Different flooring finishes such as flagstones, tiles and carpet will all require different depths and it's a flooring mistake that can be tricky, costly and messy to rectify.

Step eight: Plastering and making good

This is the stage that begins to transform a building site into something resembling a home.

Ahead of the plasterers commencing work, each room will be prepped, the beads (stop bead, angle bead, shadow gap bead) fitted and wire mesh and scrim used to close up any gaps. Any existing plasterwork that requires repair, or a new skim coat of finishing plaster will be prepared, too.

The ceilings are battened out and sheets of plasterboard screwed into position (known as ‘tacking’ work). Shower enclosures and wet areas are finished with a waterproof tile backing board.

The plasterers will then work through the home room by room, starting with the ceilings and moving into the walls. They will leave behind beautifully smooth polished surfaces (unless you specify an alternative finish such as stucco plastering) with sharp angles around openings and external corners. Any decorative plasterwork, such as coving, cornice, ceiling roses etc, can then be applied.

Whether or not the stairs are installed at this stage is a difficult decision. Plastering to the strings can give a better finish, but it is difficult to protect the stairs from damage at this stage of a project, so if an expensive staircase idea has been selected, it is best to leave installation to second fix stage unless it can be fully protected from water and paint spills and heavy traffic.

Step nine: Lay fixed flooring and tiles

Before second fix (installing skirting and architrave, hanging doors, and fitting sanitaryware etc) all fixed flooring needs to be laid. This includes tiled and most types of wood flooring, but not soft floor coverings like carpet or lino etc.

All floor finishes need to be protected so they are not damaged by foot traffic, or covered in paint from the decorating stage. Wooden flooring should not be laid until the screed substrate has dried out fully and the moisture level reading is in line with the manufacturer’s guidance.

Step ten: Second fix

Prior to this stage, it is common practice to prime all the fresh plasterwork as soon as it has dried out with a mist coat (watered-down emulsion), which ensures adhesion of the paint finishes. It is quicker to apply this with a roller without worrying about other finished surfaces.

Once the walls are prepped, jobs such as hanging the internal doors; fitting ironmongery (handles and knobs etc); fixing architrave and skirting, window board/cills; fitting timber panelling or other decorative details; fitting a kitchen and templating for worktops and splashbacks will all transform a blank canvas into a space for living.

Fireplaces and woodburning stoves can all be installed; sanitaryware and brassware (taps and showers etc) including radiators and towel rails will make your bathrooms useable; faceplates to sockets and all the different types of light switches you've specified will appear on walls, as will your ceiling and wall lights. If you've run cabling for a home security system, this is when it will be commissioned.

Step eleven: Decoration

Once the fixtures and fittings are in place, now it's time to make your stamp on your home. But, to get a high-quality finish it's important to understand that the work is 80% preparation and only 20% painting.

Plaster finishes need to be rubbed down and filled; timber finishes need to be rubbed down, knotted, filled and primed; MDF surfaces need to be primed. Paintwork should be built up in 2-3 coats and carefully cut in. Sloping ceilings are best painted in the same colour as the walls so as to avoid difficulties in cutting in a straight line.

This stage also involves applying mastic sealant to bathrooms, kitchen worktops and hearths, as well as the filling of any other gaps or areas that might require waterproofing.

External decoration should have been completed while the scaffold was still up, but at this stage it is normal to complete outstanding external mastic work to fill around doors and windows, expansion joints etc.

Step twelve: Snagging and practical completion

"Once work is finished, it is important to write up an extension snagging list," says Sarah Harley. "Any leaks, problems with electrics and sticking doors and windows need to be reported to the relevant trade as soon as possible after finishing."

If you have used a main contractor there will be a defects liability clause in the contract and a payment retention. This is to ensure that the builder returns to complete defects work, usually six months following practical completion. Once the works have been completed, the remaining balance of retention monies can then be released.

If you have managed the project yourself, then the cost of correcting any defects will be down to you unless you have agreed a retention with individual subcontractors. All building work undertaken is still however covered by consumer law.

Practical completion can run in concurrence with snagging, depending on the severity of any defects. It is typically defined as the point when the building work is complete – save for any minor defects. If you are in agreement that the work is completed as agreed (excluding minor snags), you can take possession back from the builder and officially move in. Expect to receive all manufacturers’ and installers’ guarantees, commissioning certificates, and the Electrical Installation Certificate.

Whoever is dealing with building control will also need to provide all of the information required to get a building regulations completion certificate, and this will include the ‘as built’ Energy Performance Certificate (EPC).

Then, once snags are completed, if there is a retention clause in your building contract, 50% of the retention monies held against defects should be released within the agreed time frame.

All that's left to do now is to sit back, relax and enjoy your new extension.

One final tip when it comes to your extension schedule? Don't forget to account for any work that's needed to landscape the garden, particularly if are looking for ways to make your extension work with your garden.

Once any scaffolding has been dropped, ideally you should try to ensure any structural landscaping work needed to form the contours of the garden, the driveway design and paths is completed while there is still heavy machinery on site. Although this is not always practical, especially on a tight site, it can be more cost-effective and less disruptive than trying to get the work done once the extension is finished.

Jobs to consider, as well as garden paths and your driveway ideas, include screening lawns and beds to remove stones, levelling any lawns and spreading topsoil, and even starting with your planting scheme.

Of equal importance as the hard landscaping? Your garden lighting ideas – particularly if you are rewiring your home as part of your extension plans and need to include any new garden lighting in the cabling and the overall electrical load.

A single storey extension is a popular home improvement, and it's not hard to see why. It can not only create valuable extra space that, combined with an internal remodel, can drastically improve the layout of your home and the flow of natural light, but it can also (in many cases) be undertaken within the parameters of Permitted Development. 

Building an extension is also a cost-effective alternative to moving house. 

Here we explain the rules and regulations you'll need to be aware of, offer top tips on nailing the design of your single-storey extension ideas, and answering the all-important question of how much it's going to cost.

How Much Does it Cost to Build a Single Storey Extension?

"The cost of a single storey extension will vary depending on where you are in the UK, the complexity of the build and the standard of build quality you are aiming for," advises Deputy Editor of Homebuilding & Renovating, Michelle Guy. 

If you're asking 'how much does an extension cost?' try creaking it down into separate build cost and interior fit out elements to get an accurate estimate. 

Build costs for a single storey extension can be broken down as follows:

• If you’re looking to build an extension on a budget, you can achieve a single storey extension for around £1,500 to £1,900/m² for basic quality (a 4m x 5m extension would work out at around £30,000)
• For good quality, expect to pay between £1,900 to £2,200/m² (or £38,000 for a 4m x 5m addition)
• For a high spec extension, you’ll pay between £2,200 to £2,400/m² (or upwards of £44,000 for an extension of 4m x 5m)

These figures might also be driven higher by labour and material shortages. If you're looking for ways to reduce the cost of your extension, consider taking on work DIY. 

Before you begin planning your single storey extension’s design, you need to set your budget and ensure you can afford what you’re planning. On top of the build cost, you’ll also need to factor in the following:

• Architects’ fees: These work out at around 3-7% of the construction cost, with planning drawings around £2,700, and construction drawings at a similar rate
• Structural engineer: If roof joists and foundations need to be specified, you’ll need a structural engineer. This would cost in the region of £500 to £1,000 
• Survey: Between £500 and £1,500 if a survey of the existing house is required
• Project manager: Factor in a fee of 3-7% of the build cost for project management (you can also agree a daily or hourly rate). If you are looking to keep costs down, you could always manage your own project
• VAT: This is at a rate of 20% of the labour, materials and services
• Planning fees: For a residential single storey extension in England, the cost of an application is £206. If you need a certificate of lawful development, you’ll pay £103; and it costs £34 per request for discharging planning conditions
• Building control charges: These will vary according to your extension’s size; plan for between £200 (for an extension of 10m²) to £900 (for 80 to 100m²)
• A party wall agreement: This typically costs from £700 to £1,000 per neighbour.
• Additional fees: These can include a tree report (£250 upwards); a flood risk assessment within flood zones (£250 upwards); an ecology report, possibly required by your local authority (from £400); an archaeological report if your home is in an area of archaeological interest (possibly several thousand pounds); a historic building report, likely if your home is listed
• Interior fit-out costs: See below

Cost to Fit Out a Single Storey Extension

The costs involved in fitting out a single storey extension very much depends on the room type you’re adding — a kitchen will be more expensive to equip than a home office, for example — but expect to pay:

• Between £5,000 and £30,000 on your kitchen design (higher spec kitchens can cost considerably more)
• From around £4,500 to £11,000 for your bathroom design, depending the quality of fittings; a shower room will cost a similar amount
• Factor in between £25 to £100 per square metre for your chosen type of flooring
• Add around £85 per square metre for plaster or dry-lining, plus paint if these finishes are not included in the build quote
• Expect to spend between £1,500 to £2,000 per linear metre for sliding or bifold doors
• Don’t forget to include the cost of adding heating to your new room. Extending an existing central heating system may only need two days’ work by a plumber, at around £150 per day (excluding materials). Underfloor heating will be more expensive. Electric underfloor heating is a cheaper installation choice (and some elements can be DIY-fitted). However, water-fed underfloor heating, although more expensive to install, and possibly requiring the addition of a new boiler to cope with the demand, is cheaper to run in the long term. Expect to pay around £2,500 for a new boiler

A single storey extension is cheaper to build than a two storey extension because it needs less substantial foundations and steelworks, but building a double-storey extension is the most budget-effective way to gain the most space in one project.

If now is not the time, but you might want to add a second storey in the future, now’s the time to up the spec of the extension to allow for this in future.

Do I Need Planning Permission for a Single Storey Extension?

You will need planning permission for your single storey extension if it:

• covers more than half the area of land surrounding your home
• extends towards a road
• increases the overall height of the building
• extends more than 6m from the rear of an attached house
• extends more than 8m from the rear of a detached house
• is taller than 4m
• is more than half the width of your house
• uses different materials to those of the original house
• includes a balcony or raised veranda

A good local architect or builder will be familiar with these limitations, but it’s always worth double-checking yourself to avoid making a planning application more than once.

Always check with your local authority, especially if you live in a Conservation Area. Be mindful too that local authorities can also use Article 4 Directions to remove PD rights.

How Big can a Single Storey Extension be Without Planning? 

"If you build a large single-storey rear extension of up to 8m in depth (6m for semi or terrace) you can now typically do so under Permitted Development (PD) rights," advises Homebuilding & Renovating's Deputy Editor Michelle Guy.

"You'll likely need to go through the Neighbour Consultation Scheme, which is a prior approval process for large extensions. Adjoining boundary neighbours will be consulted about your planned extension. If there are no objections and your local authority deem that the project can go ahead, it's worth applying for a Lawful Development Certificate, which confirms the work undertaken is lawful."

Planning constraints, such as how much your house has already been extended, will also limit your extension’s size, but bear in mind that the larger the extension, the more cost-effective.

That said, an extension that dramatically reduces the size of the garden can have a negative impact on the desirability of your home to future buyers, so consider if  small house extension ideas could resolve issues with the layout instead of a big addition. 

Building Regs for a Single Storey Extension

An extension of any kind must comply with building regulations. You will need to submit a Full Plans application for the work to your local authority’s building control department. 

Each authority has its own table of charges or you can use a private certified building control firm. Some contractors are building control certified, meaning they can carry out work without the need for involving the building control department.

Getting a Party Wall Agreement for a Single Storey Extension

If you have a good relationship with your neighbours – or can establish one – and talk them through your plans, you may be able to persuade them to sign a party wall agreement waiver form.

Otherwise, you will need to appoint a surveyor to arrange a party wall agreements; your neighbours are entitled to hire their own surveyor if they don’t want to share yours, and this will be at your cost.

Living on Site During a Single Storey Extension

"If you’re building an extension, it’s usual for the new structure to be made watertight with first fix plumbing and electrics fitted before breaking through into the main house," comments Michelle Guy. 

Things are likely to get messy at the point of breaking through, so it makes sense to seal off the rest of the house from construction as far as possible. Steel supports approved by building control will be put into place and joins will be made good. Of course, this type of project will generate a lot of dust and debris, so if you have young children or pets, it may be worth moving out of the house while works are carried out."

“We find that it’s pretty much 50/50 in terms of people who choose to stay put while construction is going on and those who don’t,” says Andy Young, founder and director of Create Bespoke. “It’s totally feasible to remain in the house, provided you’re prepared for a certain amount of disruption, and possibly being without hot water for a period. Depending on its complexity, completing a project can take anywhere from eight to 20 weeks.”

If you're wanting to move out only during the messiest period of the project, create an extension planner and schedule of works to ensure everything stays on track. 

Designing a Single Storey Extension

Whether you have chosen to find an architect to work with or are working on the design of your extension yourself with an experienced builder, here’s what to consider.

Although sometimes dictated by planning consent or permitted development rules, the type of extension you choose will depend on the style of house you are working with. With terrace houses, a side return extension could be all you need to transform a warren-like layout, while semi-detached houses lend themselves to wrap-around additions on their larger plots.

A common extension mistake to avoid is to forget about how the rest of the house a will sit alongside the new space. Consider carefully how to integrate new extensions with existing spaces in the initial planning stage.

Layout Ideas for a Single Storey Extension

Open-plan living is the layout of choice among self-builders and home extenders, but don't underestimate the impact of knocking down internal walls in existing areas to open them up to the new addition. 

Creating a natural flow from the original house into the new extension will help make the project more successful. This may mean including house extension ideas like:

• having a wider than usual doorway into the new room
• hiding joists in the ceiling void to ensure a continuous ceiling level between existing and new spaces
• making sure floor levels in the extension match those of the hallway it leads off from
• and ensuring decorative elements, such as mouldings, door furniture and colour schemes, match those in the existing house

Also consider your needs carefully before you start. Building a kitchen extension might involve designing an open-plan kitchen diner and living space, but allowing space for a separate utility room and cloakroom, for example.

Accessibility later in life might also be a consideration while the building works are in motion; think about door widths, level thresholds and worktop heights to accommodate for the possibility of less-able living.

Adding Windows and Doors into the Design 

The position, size and shape of doors and windows to capture the best of the daylight and the views of the garden can mean that even when building a budget extension, you can achieve a stunning space.

Ensure their style and framing complements your interior fittings — designing a kitchen to complement the style of your bifold or sliding doors, for example, will create an enhanced space.

Merging indoor and outdoor spaces can make both spaces feel bigger and cohesive. Think wide patio doors overlooking the garden, rooflights or lanters to bring light in from above or installing Crittall-style glazed internal doors to let natural light infiltrate deeper into the floorplan. 

Think About the Exterior Design of a Single Storey Extension

Obviously, the loftier the ceiling in the new extension, the brighter and bigger the space you’ll create, but consider the impact of the height of the ridge on existing first floor windows. 

If a low pitch is the only option, you may have to get creative with your roof design, opting for an orangery-style roof with glazed elements that make the ceilings look higher than they would if solid. A green roof is also a great option if the master bedroom will overlook the extension. 

Choosing house cladding materials to match those of the original house can make your extension look like it’s always been there; however, choosing contrasting but complementary materials can work just as well, and is sometimes more acceptable to planning departments.

Many people believe that building a house is not an option when on a budget, but this is certainly not always true. Many self builders manage to build beautiful homes for themselves that meet all their needs for much less than the average UK house price. A self build home is a great way to get extra space when compared to buying a pre-existing property. 

That said, in order to ensure that your project can be achieved on a tight budget, you’ll need to spend time planning out and carefully considering the build route you'll take and make sensible choices along the way. 

Here, we set out the best ways to build a house on a budget and give you examples of those self-builders that have done just this. They are a great place to start in planning a self build project with low costs that doesn’t compromise on quality. 

1. Be realistic about the size of your new home

The very best tip for anyone seeking to build a house on a tight budget is to build a relatively small one. In short, the bigger the house, the more bricks, blocks, flooring, roof tiles (and so on) will be required.

Don't let this first tip leave you feeling disappointed though. It is worth bearing in mind that even a small house design, around 150m², would still be larger than a typical four-bedroom developer home, which might be no more than 100m².

Maximise cost efficiency by building a one-and-a-half storey or two-storey house — avoid building a bungalow if you can. 

2. Stick to a simple design

When it comes to the design of your house, fuss-free and simple in form really is best. If you build a house with a complicated design, it is likely to increase both your labour and material costs so it is best avoided if you want to keep costs low.

If you are using an architect, they should be able to come up with lots of designs that should minimise costs. Georgian-style houses are great examples of elegant yet unfussy designs that are usually based on a simple box shape so it could help to take a look at some examples for inspiration.

Think about your specification too. Working at saving on the basics doesn’t mean that you have to completely ignore all the new ideas and products that you will come across in your research phase, but before you commit yourselves to spending your limited funds on what might be classed as ‘things you want,’ just make sure you have all the ‘things you need’ covered first.

3. Aim to save costs on groundworks

Your groundworks can swallow up a large portion of your build budget so this is one area to get sorted early on.

"The cost of constructing foundations is one of the biggest variables in a self build project, so anyone who wants to keep control of their budget and schedule needs to work out the most appropriate foundation system to use as early as possible," advises David Snell, one of the UK's leading self build and plotfinding experts.

If you can find a flat and serviced plot, this can be a great way to get your cost-cutting off to a flying start. It might seem obvious, but the less groundwork your build requires, the further your budget will go. 

Bear in mind you can buy plots at various stages of servicing and planning, and this can also limit your initial outlays.

4. Spend on a structural engineer to save costs later

Another great tip for how to build a house on a budget is to hire a structural engineer early on in your project. When you build a house, you know you’ll be paying for the services of a structural engineer at some point, and as their fee is based on the overall build cost, you might as well hire them at the earliest opportunity.

Your engineer can iron out structural problems while in constant dialogue with your architect, ensuring your design is thoroughly thought out before building work commences. It is vital that your design is fixed before starting any build work — changes on paper are cheaper than changes on site.

5. Enjoy savings later on by investing in the fabric

Always look to invest your budget in the fabric of the building. The fabric first approach can have a knock-on effect regarding how much you spend on other aspects of your build.

Opting for a highly energy-efficient and airtight build method, such as Structural Insulated Panels or a closed-panel kit, can save you further on materials such as insulation, and potentially on the equipment required for your heating system. In addition, the more heat your home retains, the less you have to pay in heating it.

6. Put in as much work yourself as you can

It might sound obvious, but if you are prepared to get stuck into the practical side of your build project, you can expect to make significant savings on your labour costs. Even simple tasks, such as clearing up on site at the end of the day, can result in savings and ensure your contractors can focus on the more skilled aspects of the work.

The general rule is that if you get someone else to do it for you, you will pay a premium. But do only take on tasks that you can complete competently and safely, otherwise it will be a false economy. 

Other areas you could tackle yourself include:

• project management
• buying materials
• basic landscaping
• decorating

7. Build your house from blockwork

When you bear in mind that you’ll spend around 15% of your build costs on the external walls, it pays to consider blockwork as you construction method — metre for metre, it is considered to be the cheapest.

That said, alternative walling systems such as timber frame, SIPs and ICF, all offer different qualities that could just reduce your expenditure on other aspects of the build, such as insulation and the time spent on site by contractors. 

In reality, the simple methods and materials that housebuilders have been using over many years are also usually the best options if you are on a tight budget. The fact is that if a product or system is commonly and widely used across the industry and across the country, there will be more people providing it and there will therefore naturally be more competition on price.

If you spend as much of your free time as possible in the early stages getting and comparing quotes for all the basic materials and services you are going to need, from as wide a selection of sources as possible, you will usually be surprised at the price variances.

8. Take a mix and match approach to kitchen design

Designing a kitchen and having it fitted can take up a hefty portion of your overall budget and yet there are ways to save without compromising on quality or style. 

Ways to save on your kitchen costs, include:

• Go to a smaller local firm for low-cost, high-quality units. Suppliers such as Pineland Furniture will be able to supply units with no chipboard or ply for less than £5,000 — cheaper if you paint them yourself
• Pick out the better ranges at high street names. The mainstream kitchen suppliers offer impressive ranges. Make the most of (almost-constant) sales or be prepared to negotiate
• Mix basic and luxury fittings. You can pick out standard carcasses from trade outfits and mix them with doors from high-end suppliers; you could mix standard units from Wickes with top-quality handles and worktops

9. Consider an alternative to an architect

The value architects can add value to a project is undeniable. Very often, a skilled architect will be able to suggest ways you can design your home to save on costs and, providing you are honest with them about what you can afford, will design you a house you might not have before thought possible.

That said, go to a recognised architect and you’ll expect to pay 10% of your build costs in design fees at least. So, if your budget is £150,000 (not unheard of) that’s £15,000 on a project that probably doesn’t warrant this type of expenditure.

Those looking to stick to a very tight budget don't have to forgo the design process completely but they should consider taking a different approach. It helps if you can start the process off with a pretty firm idea of the kind of house you’d like to build.

You can then take these ideas to someone with design skills but without the ‘Architect’ title — perhaps a skilled local house designer (speak to local builders to get a few recommendations), who can then draw up workable planning and Building Regulations drawings for you.

This process will potentially save you £1,000s at the start of your project.

10. Choose your cladding materials with care

When it comes to cladding, budget self builders will find either a render or brick outer skin the most economical of all.

Those building using timber frame looking to spend less on their cladding will find weatherboarding the most efficient and economical way of constructing that outer shell — some people even try their hand at fitting it themselves.

Of course, there are many choices when it comes to render solutions, but you should expect to pay £75/m² facing (it can go up to £125/m² with one of the anti-crack, self-coloured systems).

Those using brick should avoid the very basic wirecut facings but should be able to find attractive bricks at £300/m². You could also inject a bit of instant character by mixing together two or three stock bricks, which doesn’t cost any more than a uniform selection.

Those in a stone belt might be able to save money by specifying reconstituted stone but if planners insist on real local stone, try specifying it as a half-cut facing (similar to a brick slip) to save money on materials. Unfortunately, a lot of the cost of stone is in the laying, which you won’t be able to avoid.

11. Steal some ideas from the developers

When thinking about how to build a house on a budget, it is all about choosing the right design options that have significant cost-saving implications.

For example, very few ordinary developer houses have regular chimney stacks — as many houses so rarely have traditional open fires these days, a traditional chimney is not essential. Replacing a chimney with an exhaust vent terminating at a subtle roof grille will save between £2,000 - 5,000.

If you’re really keen to save every penny, you’ll also be interested to learn that most developers put in conventional ‘fink’ roof trusses rather than attic trusses (which allow the attic space to be used as a room) — it can save between £1,000 - 3,000. But if you want a loft conversion in the future, fink roof trusses are difficult to reverse and a false economy.

Another significant saving that can be enjoyed with less implications down the line is to specify an attached rather than detached garage. Not only is there a saving on basic structural material costs, but it’s much easier for electricians to lay on services to an attached garage rather than one 5m from the rest of the house. You should be able to save £2-5,000 this way.

You can also save on the heating system — owing to the huge variety of options now available. A top-of-the-range heating system, complete with underfloor heating, designer towel rails, controls and a high-quality boiler, could easily cost £5,000 - 7,000 (unfitted). A basic setup, however, with a standard condensing boiler and cheap radiators, will cost in the region of £1,500 - 2,000 (unfitted).

12. Consider buying instead of hiring equipment

Another tip for how to build a house on a budget is to be savvy with the less obvious costs.

An example of how you can make simple savings is to look into buying a set of scaffolding for the duration of your project, then selling it on after. If you hire scaffolding, you will spend a lot more on it over those weeks than it costs to buy it outright, and you won’t get any of that money back! This tip can be applied to other things you might hire — diggers, for example.

13. Brush up on your negotiating skills

Being clever with your materials shopping – and playing suppliers off against each other – can save £1,000s on the bigger purchases.

Use the internet to research prices and don’t be afraid to negotiate. Of course, this all means that it’s much better to buy your own materials — it’s both unlikely that a builder will negotiate as hard on your behalf and also that they will pass on the full benefits of cost reductions.

Don’t forget, too, that you’re in the market for labour as well as materials. It pays to contact a range of local tradesmen in order to do this – “X down the road says he’ll do it for £100 a day…” – but bear in mind that if you end up paying ridiculously under a reasonable rate, the tradesman will simply move onto a better paying job if, and when, it comes up.

14. Stick to a 'less is more' landscaping scheme

Garden landscape costs should never be left as an afterthought. Certain landscaping jobs have a huge effect for very little outlay — for example turfing. To turf all your garden areas, just level, rake to remove stones then roll — and get the turf ordered. It’s a really cost-effective way to create a great-looking garden.

Pathways and even your driveway can be finished in gravel to give a very pleasing aesthetic. There are many types and colours to choose from and you can mix and match to create some nice effects. Always try to order full loads rather than the tonne bags — this will save you a lot of money.

 2” by 2” concrete riven-effect slabs can be bought for just a few pounds each and will quickly give you a decent patio area. If you are feeling brave, you could try laying them yourself too.

 Post and rail fencing usually comprises 4” treated posts at 6’ to 8’ centres with 4” by 2” treated timbers simply nailed to them. Using metal spikes instead of concrete to set the posts will make it a faster, easier and cheaper job which you may be able to do yourself.

Turnkey home suppliers (also known as package suppliers, design and build companies or even occasionally custom build companies) typically offer pretty much the same thing — a hands-off self build. 

The company will design the house, source all the materials, arrange the labour and get the thing done. All you have to do is pick and choose what you want, and pay for it.

It sounds all too easy, and it comes at two significant costs.

The first of which, of course, is the price itself. Price in building terms is all about risk. By transferring the risk of construction to another company, they are going to factor all the associated things that can go wrong (material prices rocketing, contractors providing poor work etc.) to the customer. People building a home through a package company would expect to pay extra to reflect this fact.

The second cost of using a turnkey company is an addendum to the first, on risk. Because, regardless of who you use, you can’t completely eliminate risk from a building project. Companies don’t always offer the service they promised, and sometimes they go bust. This means making a choice of package company is critical — so, how do you choose?

How Does the Turnkey Home Route Work?

Different turnkey home suppliers offer different processes, but the following is typical:

• Plot analysis Your package supplier might have a list of available plots; they may help you assess sites and guide you through the purchase
• Feasibility Study A consultation session to go through your broad brief, your intentions, and budget to assess if you are able to proceed 
• Design Consultation You may work with one of the company’s designers (either in-house or freelance) to create a design to your brief and budget
• Planning & Building Regs Approvals The package company will administer your relevant Building Regulations, warranties, etc. as required
• Off-site Manufacture After committing to the project you will order your ‘kit’ frame and it will be manufactured by the supplier off site
• Groundworks Most package suppliers do not include groundworks in their contracts, but may be able to arrange for an approved contractor to undertake the work for you
• Delivery and Erection The ‘kit’ is delivered to site and erected, ready for you to move in. 

Structural Systems for Turnkey Homes

If you like the look of the highly efficient timber frame systems, turnkey home companies are the solution for you. In many ways, the turnkey approach is essential to the delivery of highly airtight, energy-efficient wall, floor and roof systems in a way that leaving a build to a series of builders on site isn’t.

Most of the UK and continental suppliers offer closed panel timber frame systems which closely resemble structural insulated panels (SIPs), and many companies offer a range of slightly different options — e.g. ‘standard’, ‘eco’, ‘Passivhaus’ (at different price points). Typical U values for these walling systems are in the 0.11-0.18W/m2 range — easily meeting and surpassing standard Building Regulations.

What’s interesting too is that these walling systems include parts of the build that might not otherwise have been considered part of the external wall. WeberHaus’s ÖvoNatur Therm (their most thermally efficient option) includes not only the exterior render but also the internal plasterboard.

The key is to ensure that you’re comparing like for like across suppliers when looking at U values — but also at wall thicknesses. WeberHaus’s ÖvoNatur Therm for example, allows for two skins — the regular 165mm timber frame in addition to an extra 160mm thickness of additional insulation. The total thickness including render and plasterboard is almost 400mm.

What's Available in Terms of External Appearance for Turnkey Homes?

This being self build, there is a choice of walling system. Design & Materials have long stood alone in their offering of a comprehensive package service, but in blockwork, rather than timber. They have a wall system that offers U values that beat 0.17W/m2. Similarly, insulated concrete formwork (ICF) suppliers often offer a service that provides airtight and efficient wall systems.

However, if you’re making your choice of build route and package supplier on build system alone, then you’re probably missing a trick. There are distinct differences in terms of performance and construction system but they pale somewhat when compared to the fact that the end result is usually going to be well in excess of Building Regulations standards. Wall thicknesses do differ, as does the ability to achieve good airtightness levels, but the structural system shouldn’t be your main differential.

How Much Does a Turnkey Home Cost?

There’s a surprisingly large variation in guide prices between the suppliers.

Homebuilding & Renovating’s analysis of build costs offered by package companies reveals that the costs offered by different suppliers varies just as much as that by builders. In many ways the only truism is that you’ve got as near to a guarantee as you’re going to get that the quoted price will be the finished price you’ll pay — after all, marrying the design and build elements is a brilliant way to ensure cost certainty.

It’s a wide bracket, but build costs range from £1,000/m2 to at least £2,500/m2.

(MORE: Get a tailored quote for your timber frame project)

• Expect to pay around £1,200-£2,000/m2 through the package suppliers that control the whole process (i.e. provide their own labour and materials rather than just materials)
• At the top end, Baufritz informs prospective clients that they should budget £2,500/m2 — this is, they claim, due to the highest quality design and construction system.
• Potton base their prices on variations from £1,200/m2.
• Hanse Haus tend to give clients looking for general steers on costs figures in the range of £1,400/m2.
• Oakwrights, the oak frame package supplier, are ‘reassuringly expensive’ according to owner and founder Tim Crump (most Oakwrights homes tend to cost at least £1,800/m2).

Levels of Service from Turnkey Home Providers

One supplier’s ‘package’ is different to that offered by another.

So-called ‘package’ companies are remarkably relaxed about the definition of what the package they provide actually is. In short, most companies offer you a range of involvement levels depending on your own preferences.

Potton, for instance, offer five main build route options to their customers after the design and planning stage — which itself includes pretty much every option you could think of, from the conventional package route of using an in-house Potton designer, to bringing your own existing plans to Potton for them to build from. In this sense Potton are effectively a materials package supplier with design and project management bolt-ons.

The actual core provision includes:

• the supply and erection of the timber frame superstructure with pre-insulated external panels
• roof trusses
• first and second fix carpentry (supply only, and including such items as staircase, skirting and architrave, doors, etc.)

It excludes:

• footings
• roof coverings
• cladding
• electrics
• plumbing

Although Potton will happily arrange these for you if you wish.

This ‘frame plus extras’ model is quite dominant among the UK suppliers who often get called package suppliers — a far more accurate description would be timber frame suppliers. Oakworth Homes, for instance, bill themselves primarily as timber frame suppliers who, if the customer really wishes, will offer management and even design services.

The model offered by Scandia-Hus, one of the UK’s best-known package suppliers, confirms that for the most part, UK package suppliers tend to stop at joinery. They offer a range of transparently priced building ‘sets’ which include a design service (based on standard design types) for which the price varies depending on the build route chosen. Flexibility is great, but package building in the continental sense this isn’t.

Which is exactly the service offered by the likes of Baufritz and Hanse Haus, who offer an initial design consultation, followed by a trip to their European sampling centres to make final decisions, then everything is fixed down ready for off-site manufacture, delivery and construction on site — a true ‘package’ if ever there was one.

How to Choose Between Turnkey Companies

So how do you pick between package companies? The choice comes down to the quality of the designers and their willingness to provide the type of services that you might expect from an independent architect (in many cases they are independent designers anyway). So try to find out as much as possible and ask questions. Who will handle your design, for instance? Can you meet them? Can you see previous examples of their work?

Many package suppliers tend to bundle the costs of the design service into the overall package price. That’s good for you, in most respects, but be careful to ensure that it doesn’t falsely reduce the importance of design to the wider scheme. Most experts agree you should be spending between 7-12 per cent of your build costs on design to give it the time and consideration (and expertise) it needs.

Package Supplier Guide

26 of the best package companies to check out:

• Potton: Bespoke design service; usually build in SIPs
• Hanse Haus: Closed panel timber frame package suppliers
• Baufritz: Closed panel timber frame package; uses natural, healthy materials
• Westwind Oak: Bespoke oak frames; design and build service
• Welsh Oak Frame: Bespoke oak frames with subsidised design (not a full package)
• Border Oak: 50 years experience in post and beam construction. Bespoke design service; usually build in SIPs and oak frame
• Lakeland Timber Frame: Timber frame design and build package; will do supply only
• Scandia-Hus: Swedish timber frame supplier
• Scotframe: Timber frame home manufacturers
• Oakwrights: Bespoke oak frame homes
• Oakworth Homes: Timber frame home manufacturer
• Meisterstück-HAUS: Super-airtight German package supplier
• Fairgrove Homes: Package build supplier now offering a custom build service
• MBC Timber Frame: Package supplier offering Passivhaus homes
• Fleming Homes: They offer bespoke timber frame kit homes from supply-only to full turnkey
• Feeling Homes: Full service design and build package from £1,200/m²
• FjordHus: Supplies and builds Scandinavian-style timber frame homes
• SchwörerHaus: German-based timber frame package supplier
• Dan-Wood: Customised turnkey timber frame homes manufactured in Poland
• Flight Timber: Hybrid SIPs timber frame supplier offering design and build packages
• Rob Roy Homes: Manufacture bespoke timber frame kits
• McGoldrick Developments: Supply timber frame kits
• Carpenter Oak: Now reunited with Carpenter Oak & Woodland, they specialise in oak frame packages
• Taylor Lane: Timber frame package suppliers
• English Brothers: Bespoke timber frames
• Design & Materials: Offer masonry package services

Assessing a home for renovation is not always easy. There are lots of reasons why people decide to renovate a house — from making a profit to putting their own stamp on a property.  Whatever the motivation, the original house – that is, the one you are buying – is key. Choose badly and all subsequent work could well be in vain. 

The magic ingredient for the perfect renovation project is potential. However, assessing potential from the hundreds of thousands of properties for sale each year isn’t as easy as you might otherwise think.

Deciding whether the property is a good buy or bad means weighing up those costs associated with rectifying defects and problems, together with the purchase price, against the likely end value.

(MORE: Renovating a House)

How do I Find a Renovation Opportunity?

Whilst it might be pretty simple to use a quick online search to bring up a whole host of properties in need of modernisation, the hard bit is sifting through what’s on offer. Not all agents recognise the potential that some homes have, so be open to ideas — two bedroom detached bungalows being a good starting point for small homes on bigger plots that have lots of scope for improvement, for example.

Another good tip is to drive around and identify potentially empty properties — track down the owners, who may be willing to sell to you in order to save on estate agent’s fees. Also, don’t forget the key marketplace for run-down homes — auctions.

Firstly, search the Land Registry online. For £3 they’ll let you see the title register if the house has been sold since 2000. If it hasn’t, turn detective. Ask neighbours, join local online groups and even mailshot the house itself.

How to Assess a House for Renovation Potential 

Before you begin to assess the design potential and structural condition of a property, there are a few basic questions to ask yourself:

• Is it in a good location? This could mean that it is in an area known for its good schools or transport links, away from any main roads or next to land that is likely to be bought up by a developer.
• Is there scope for off-road parking where there isn’t any?
• Have neighbouring properties recently been extended (indicating that local planners are open to the idea)?

These are all things that are fixed and can’t be changed, unlike rotten windows and a damp problem.

How to Assess the Design Potential of a House

It doesn’t make sense to spend on any design fees before you have bought a house. What this means is that you, as the potential new owner, will need to work out what could be done in the name of renovation and improvement to any house you are interested in.

Firstly, consider the basic things tasks that will need to be carried out in design terms to bring the house you’re considering up to your requirements.

• How many extra bedrooms or bathrooms will it need?
• What about kitchen size (the smaller kitchens common in older properties being the number one ‘room for improvement’?)
• How is the current layout working? How could it be improved or opened up?
• Is there scope to extend?
• Is there potential for a loft conversion?

The answers to these questions can then begin to form the basis of any renovation works you plan and will also help you calculate they kind of costs you might be looking at should you take the project on.

Secondly, number and size of rooms aside, assess the problems with the layout and internal finishes. Do they have the potential to be improved?

• Do the rooms flow?
• Have previous extensions created ‘corridor’ rooms that seem awkward?
• What about orientation and room positioning?
• Do the main living areas overlook the garden or a view?
• What about the position of what will become the master bedroom?
• Is the only bathroom downstairs?

Lastly, consider the exterior of the property. Assess windows not just for rot, but also look at their style. 

• Can the external cladding be improved or changed completely?
• Is there space for off-road parking?
• Is the garden big enough?
• Will the windows need replacing or can they be repaired?
• What condition is the roof in? Will it need new tiles or slates?

All of this will help you begin to form an idea of what you would want to do to the property — planning permission allowing.

How to Assess the Structural Condition of a House

Once you have decided whether or not it is worth even stepping foot in the property, an assessment of the structural condition of the house is essential — not only in order to work out how much work is going to be required or whether it is even a viable project, but also to give an idea of whether the asking price is a fair one.

You can learn to spot many structural defects yourself — and this is well worthwhile doing. However, anyone thinking of buying an old house, other than an experienced renovator, should always commission a building report by a chartered building surveyor. Unless you have real knowledge it is a false economy to save on the few hundred pounds that it costs for an experts opinion.

Do I Need a Building Report?

Whilst being able to spot major problems yourself is no substitute for a survey, it can help you decide whether or not it is worth forking out for one (£500-£1,500). Sometimes the cost of renovating a building, relative to its likely end value, is clearly so high that it is not even worth commissioning a survey.

If you do commission a building report, be aware of its limitations.

A surveyor can only make a visual inspection of a building and so cannot discover or reveal hidden problems. The report is unlikely to include a valuation unless you specifically request one and whilst the report should include a schedule of any remedial work required, sometimes listing repairs in order of priority, it is unlikely to give a written indication of the cost of those works. Although some surveyors may be willing to indicate likely repair costs, this part is usually down to you to find out.

How to Tell if a Rewire is Needed

Electrics in old buildings will often require updating — look out for old-fashioned fuse boxes, light switches, round pin plugs and fabric-coated flex. 

Rewiring a typical three bedroom terraced house (90-100m²) will cost from £2,500-£3,000, including removing the old wiring, lifting and replacing the floorboards, and installing a new consumer unit, but excluding making good the plaster and decoration. The job should take a pair of electricians five to seven days.

You should be able to tell if a house has been rewired or not yourself by inspecting exposed parts of the wiring and by inspecting the electricity meter and fuse box (known as the consumer unit). Tell-tale signs are:

• an old-style fuse box with no circuit breakers
• a mixture of switch and socket styles, especially old round pin sockets or dolly switches
• any cabling other than modern PVC-insulated cable, coloured grey or white

How to Spot Signs of Damp

You can invariably smell damp before you see it, as mould and fungi are usually present, rapidly creating a musty or mushroom smell. You can also spot damp because of either the presence of water, damp patches, mould, wet or dry rot, white salt deposits on brick or stonework, and/or failing plasterwork on walls and ceilings. The key to understanding damp and its implications is to identify the source and then come to an appropriate solution.

Once a damp problem is resolved, any damage will have to be repaired, starting with the structure. Check all timber elements that have been exposed to damp, and get a specialist to look for signs of wet or dry rot or wood-boring insects. If evidence is found, lenders are likely to require chemical treatment and this will cost £800-1,500 depending on the extent of infestation

Old buildings without damp are the exception, so do not be too concerned about signs of damp as they can always be solved. First you need to identify the source of the damp and, once discovered, solving it involves simple and inexpensive repair or replacement.

In an old brick building a damp proof course can be created by injecting silicone into the bricks both inside and outside the building. For the average three bedroom terraced house this is likely to cost around £3-400 plus the cost of redecorating, (total cost £1,200-£1,800) as it usually involves replacing the damaged plaster from all ground floor walls up to a height above the level of the rising damp.

What are the Signs of Subsidence?

Are the walls and floors square and true? If not, the building may have suffered structural movement. Look for signs of cracks in the walls, especially around windows and doorways. The building may have moved because of the failure of structural elements which have led to the building bowing, twisting or spreading, or due to movement in the ground, know as subsidence (collapsing ground) and heave (rising ground). Buildings that have moved can be repaired and it is typical for a period house to have experienced some movement in its lifetime.

The important thing is to find out whether the movement is historical, dormant or active. Historical movement may have long since ceased and been corrected.

Cracks in plaster walls and masonry can look extremely worrying, but are frequently only cosmetic. Cracks to materials that are isolated, for instance a crack in a single brick, or a stress crack in a plaster wall adjacent to a window or doorway, are unlikely to be structural.

Where the cracking is more extensive and follows a pattern, i.e. a crack running through a series of bricks, there is likely to be a more serious cause. Typical causes are subsidence or heave in the ground which may necessitate underpinning beneath the walls, or the failure of the floor or roof structure.

Active movement is the one to be most concerned about, where there are visible cracks and failed structural elements, with signs of fresh dust and debris. Arches and lintels may be collapsing and windows and doorways out of square. The floors and roof may be damaged if the walls that support them have moved.

The building will have to be stabilised, possibly by underpinning or soil grouting, and then repaired. The work involved can be extensive and you should not proceed without specialist advice and detailed estimates for remedial work, which should be reflected in the purchase price.

Subsidence is where the ground level drops, and 'heave'  is where it lifts. Both problems will manifest themselves in undulating and or cracked walls or floors. Ground movement typically occurs after a period of extreme rainfall or drought, where trees have recently been planted or removed close to the building, or where there has been localised flooding. Houses built in clay soils with shallow or no foundations are the most prone to this kind of problem.

The consequences of movement on the structure of a house can be dramatic and so this is an area where extreme caution and independent expert advice are required. A building can almost always be stabilised and repaired, but the issue is one of cost. Sometimes it can be cheaper and easier to demolish a property and treat the site as a plot, than it is to repair the problem by underpinning the walls with concrete.

In addition, the end value of a building once it has been underpinned can be severely compromised because buyers are likely to be wary of any continued risk, and because insurers may be reluctant to provide cover.

Before proceeding with any underpinning work, check for the proximity of drains, as a collapsed drain can cause ground movement resulting in cracks in walls that can be mistaken for subsidence.

How Was the House Built?

The materials and methods used in the construction of the original house will influence the type of materials used for its repair and renovation, and this will influence costs. Houses built post-WWI may have cavities and these can often be insulated for very little cost. Older houses are likely to have solid walls, built using lime mortar rather than cement, and so any repairs need to be on a like-for-like basis. Insulation will have to be added on the internal face of the walls, and it is important that the walls remain breathable to prevent damp problems.

Older houses may have little or no foundations and this will have to be taken into account when designing any extensions to prevent differential movement (to stop the extension from damaging the original house), and may limit the scope for alterations or building up additional storeys which will alter the loading on the building.

Will Windows and Doors need Replacing?

Replacing external windows and doors will cost at least £2,500-3,000 for a typical three bedroom semi-detached house and a great deal more for a larger property or where period-style windows are required. Check the condition of the windows: is the paintwork intact and the timber sound? If you can restore original timber windows, it is worth doing so and this is likely to be more cost-effective than replacement.

PVCu double glazed windows will cost from £100-£200 each and the same again for fitting. A new door will cost £100-£500 plus £100-£200 for installation.

Replace your original windows with caution, however, as they can be an inherent part of a buildings character and therefore its value. Original windows can often be repaired and this may cost less than replacing them with new windows in a sympathetic style.

In many areas, however, replacement windows are a must for all buyers and will add considerably more to the value of a property than they cost. Even so, it is worth paying considerable attention to the style and proportions, and which lights should be opening or fixed.

Assessing the Brickwork

Look for signs of wear on brick or stonework. Inspect the mortar joints to see whether or not they are worn and need repointing. Look at any architectural details like stone quoins and check their condition. Take a good look at the chimney to see if it is square and stable, and whether or not it needs repointing.

Examine all external decorative timbers such as bargeboards, finials, dormer window cheeks and soffits to see whether they need painting or replacing.

Minor cracks in cement render are rarely more than cosmetic and are inexpensive to fill and repair. If cracks are more severe, however, check that they are not a sign of structural movement by inspecting the blocks or bricks beneath. If the render has started to come away from the wall typically due to prolonged frost damage it will need to be removed and replaced. Render is a two coat process and will cost around 14-18/m² supply and fix.

Will a New Plumbing System be Required?

Many old houses were built either without bathroom facilities or have since had them added on the ground floor. Installing a new bathroom at first floor level is likely to cost around £800-£1,000, with a basic white bathroom set from one of the DIY stores costing around £250-£350. Creating the stud walling for a new bathroom out of an upstairs bedroom is likely to cost £1,500-£2,500 including finishing and tiling, but consider the implications of possibly losing a bedroom to make space for a new bathroom.

If you are altering, relocating or adding bathrooms it is worth considering whether you should replace the plumbing system. If you are going to be lifting floorboards anyway in order to rewire, or making other alterations, adding new plumbing, waste and soil pipes will be worthwhile. It is also a good idea to check that all of the drains are working. You can do this by lifting the inspection chamber and getting someone to pour food dye down each WC.

How to Test a Chimney Flue

These are quickly and easily checked with a smoke pellet — but do get the vendor’s permission before potentially smoking out the whole of the house. Repairing a chimney flue by relining it will cost from £600-800.

Will You Need a New Heating System?

If there is a central heating system, find out what fuel it uses and the age of the boiler. Replacing a gas-fired radiator central heating system will cost around £2,000-2,500. A modern condensing boiler will be more energy efficient than an old model — replacing just the boiler will cost £900-1,400.

If the radiators are in good condition but there are cold spots, you may be able to powerflush the system and avoid replacement (desirable if there are old column radiators).

No radiators in a house should immediately alert you to the fact that there is no heating system in place. Sometimes, there may be electric storage heaters instead. Adding a wet radiator, gas central heating system to a three bedroom terrace will cost around £2,500-5,000 and will take a plumber eight to ten days. 

Adding central heating is easily one of the most cost effective improvements you can make to a house and will always add more to the value of a property than it costs to install.

Replacement Rainwater Systems

A replacement PVCu rainwater system will cost around £400-£800 for a typical three bedroom terraced house however, the gutters and downpipes on an old property rarely need replacing entirely and wherever possible, original cast iron rainwater systems should be retained.

How to Spot Dry Rot

Dry rot is easy to identify the spores send out fungal strands along the timber and through/along any wall. These strands can become quite dense to form a mass like cotton wool, penetrating and destroying the timber. 

The first sign of dry rot is often its distinctive musty smell when you lift a floorboard or even just the carpet. Getting rid of dry rot will cost around £1,000 for treatment by a specialist firm. Repair costs for replacing any damage are in addition to this, and can be extensive. 

Some recommend the removal of all infected materials. The best way to prevent a recurrence is to improve ventilation and eradicate any damp.

What is Wet Rot?

Wet rot is hardly a problem compared to dry rot. It is basically the timber decaying naturally in the presence of high levels of moisture. Timber suffering from wet rot will feel spongy (even through a coat of paint) and look darker than the surrounding timber. When dry, the timber will easily crack and crumble into fine particles.

The cost of solving wet rot will depend on the damage it has caused to timber in the house. Repairs should be treated. The problem will not return if you solve damp problems in the house and improve ventilation.

How Much Will a New Roof Cost?

Roof damage will usually manifest itself in leaks inside the house. Typical problems will be broken or slipped roof tiles, missing or damaged flashings, damaged or missing underfelt, and worn pointing on verges. Providing the problem has been spotted early enough, the roof structure should not have been exposed to sufficient damp for it to require total replacement. Where timbers have been damaged due to exposure to the elements, they will need replacing.

Replacing or refixing a few roof tiles or slates, and repointing the verges, is not a major task and will cost £100-£200. If the damage is extensive, then it may be cheaper to remove the old roof covering and lay a new roof. The advantage of this is that the roof can be felted and battened to make it weathertight. Replacing the entire roof over a typical three bedroom terraced house will cost from £2,000-£3,000 including scaffold hire.

A collapsed ceiling is usually a sign that damp has got into the structure or that there has been a flood of some sort. Old lathe and plaster ceilings can be incredibly messy to remove as they produce a vast amount of rubbish. In most instances the ceiling will need to be replaced using plasterboard, fixed onto new, level ceiling joists, and finished with a skim coat. Costs are likely to be £400-£500 per room, including removal of waste. If the ceiling has not collapsed too far, you may be able to plasterboard over the original lathe and plaster ceiling instead, at a cost of £100-£200.

Spotting and Treating Woodworm

Woodworm is  common pest in damp timber that can cause major problems if the damage is extensive. However, in most situations the damage is superficial (providing the holes are 2mm or less) and the problem can be eradicated using pesticides. 

The problem can be more serious if the woodworm has managed to get into less accessible areas of the structure that cannot easily be treated. Before paying for any treatment, make sure the woodworm is still active and has not already been eradicated look for signs of sawdust around the holes. Pesticide treatment will cost from £600-£1,000 for an average house.

Where the ground has either expanded or shrunk due to a change in moisture content, it can have a dramatic effect on the foundations and walls of a building or its ground floor oversite slab if supported directly on the ground.

Subsidence is where the ground level drops, and heave where it lifts. Both problems will manifest themselves in undulating and or cracked walls or floors. Ground movement typically occurs after a period of extreme rainfall or drought, where trees have recently been planted or removed close to the building, or where there has been localised flooding. Houses built in clay soils with shallow or no foundations are the most prone to this kind of problem.

The consequences of movement on the structure of a house can be dramatic and so this is an area where extreme caution and independent expert advice are required. A building can almost always be stabilised and repaired, but the issue is one of cost. Sometimes it can be cheaper and easier to demolish a property and treat the site as a plot, than it is to repair the problem by underpinning the walls with concrete.

In addition, the end value of a building once it has been underpinned can be severely compromised because buyers are likely to be wary of any continued risk, and because insurers may be reluctant to provide cover.

Before proceeding with any underpinning work, check for the proximity of drains, as a collapsed drain can cause ground movement resulting in cracks in walls that can be mistaken for subsidence.

Renewables remain high on the agenda for many self builders, as they look to incorporate sustainability into the fabric of the design of their new homes. 

While often the initial expenditure on renewable energy sources for the home is high, the rewards often stretch far beyond - not only reducing your home’s need for heat and energy sources powered by polluting fossil fuels, but also offering lower bills, alongside the potential of grants to offset and reimburse your expenses. 

While some providers will offer you energy from renewable sources, in our expert guide, we look at the technology available for generating your own energy sustainably to contribute to your home’s energy mix, or to power it completely. 

From costs to planning to suitability, here’s what you need to know. 

Solar

Solar PV

Solar PV systems convert sunlight directly into energy. Solar PV is the most common form of renewable energy system.

Their popularity surged during the generous Feed In Tariff (FiT) scheme, however, with the installation costs rapidly falling, and when you plan your lifestyle and energy consumption to maximise the use of the generated electricity, solar PV panels are still a good option.

(MORE: Solar PV Guide) 

A system of around 4kW generation capacity (under optimum sunshine) is the most common, as installers can install and self-certify an array of this size without special permission from the distribution network operator.

The unit cost reduces with the increasing size of the system. This is because the cost of the other elements – inverter, control gear, scaffolding and so on – remains largely the same. This makes schemes below 2kW difficult to justify in financial terms.

Benefits of Solar PV

• Solar PV will suit a higher proportion of properties than other renewable technologies and has a long and largely maintenance-free life
• The technology is easily available
• Generation is silent
• PV systems are fairly low-maintenance products. Many inverters now have apps that monitor the generation and will quickly flag up any irregularities

Drawbacks of Solar PV

• Efficiency levels are relatively low compared with other renewable energy systems
• Weather dependent
• PV will not give you all of the energy you require in your home without solar batteries.

Installation

A solar array does not need to be mounted on the roof but it needs to be as close to south-facing as possible (within 45°) and inclined as close to 30° as possible. 

The array needs to be free from shadows (including those cast by trees and neighbouring houses) and not likely to be hit by hard objects (ie. errant cricket balls). 

Planning permission is not usually needed to install solar PV panels, but it is wise to check. 

When choosing a company to supply and install, obtain references (and follow them up) to make sure the company has a good track record.

Cost 

A typical 4kWp solar PV system will cost between £5,500 and £9,000 for an on-roof system. Systems integrated into the roof tiles will cost from £9,000 upwards. 

Allow an additional £600-£1,000 to replace the inverter unit after 10+ years.

(MORE: Get a quote for solar panels for your project)

Grants 

Since the end of the FiT, there have been no specific national grants or incentives available for the installation of solar PV panels.

However, energy companies will now enter into an agreement to buy your surplus generation from you. The price you'll be offered will depend on the supplier, but it is less generous than the rates offered under the FiT. 

The payback period for a PV system at current electricity prices is usually around £500-£600 per year. 

You could therefore expect the £6,000 system to be paid back in 10-12 years, leaving you with 8-10 years of free energy with profit.

Solar Thermal

Solar thermal systems use the heat from the sun to heat your hot water. Solar thermal systems are robust, simple, effective, have a long life and are relatively cheap to install.

(MORE: Solar Thermal Guide)

There are two types:

• Flat plate systems are cheaper to install and evacuated tube systems are slightly more efficient. If the roof is close to due south then flat plate will be as good, and cheaper, than evacuated tube.
• Solar evacuated tubes are very useful for difficult installations. An evacuated tube system can be installed by a single fitter as there is no heavy lifting involved.

Benefits of Solar Thermal Panels

• They take up less space on the roof than solar PV panels
• There are virtually no/minimal running costs
• Simple, reliable technology which can lower your energy bills.

Drawbacks of Solar Thermal Panels

• In most cases the solar thermal system does not contribute to the central heating, as there is less solar resource during the heating season and so it would not be of much benefit. It is largely only used for domestic hot water preparation. 
• The payback period can be some 20 or so years, depending on your existing fuel source and hot water use.
• Solar thermal systems don’t work with most combi boilers, as they need a large hot water storage tank to store the energy produced.

Installation

Solar thermal can typically be installed under Permitted Development (i.e. without planning) except in sensitive areas, such as Conservation Areas or on listed buildings.

Cost 

A two or three panel solar thermal system will cost around £4,000 to £7,000 installed. This would supply an average 200 to 300 litre cylinder. 

Grants 

Solar thermal qualifies for Renewable Heat Incentive (RHI), but to qualify it can only be used for domestic hot water needs. 

It also qualifies for funding from the Green Homes Grant, under which the government will pay at least two-thirds of the cost of installing a solar thermal system, up to £5,000. 

Hybrid Solar Panels 

Photovoltaic thermal (PVT) is the best of the combined technologies. PVT looks like a standard PV array but produces high quantities of hot water as well as electricity. 

Extracting the heat makes the PV element more efficient, increasing electricity production. When combined with a heat pump it gives good year-round performance.

(MORE: Hybrid Solar Panels Guide)

Benefits of Hybrid Solar Panels

• Take up less roof space as PV and thermal panels are combined 
• Optimises PV panels

Drawbacks of Hybrid Solar Panels

• Thermal element won't reach same temperatures as separate solar thermal panels
• More expensive to install as requires specialist installers
• Home will still require a primary heating source

Installation

As with PV, the array needs to be as close to south facing as possible, inclined as close to 30° as possible (the array does not need to be mounted on the roof) and free from shadows.

Cost 

Expect to pay around 1.5 to 2 times the cost of an equivalent rated solar PV system. A 4kWp system will cost around £10,000 installed.

Grants 

PVT is no longer eligible for FiT or RHI payments. PVT is for people who want to invest in minimising long-term running costs by producing as much energy as possible on site, at the lowest possible unit cost. What this needs, above all, is a specialist installer with the appropriate expertise.

Biomass

Biomass heating is the combustion of grown products, normally wood based such as wood pellets, logs and chips. Pellets are clean, easy and expensive. Logs are cheap, but more messy and more work. Woodchip is generally for large 50kW+ boilers; again messy and it needs a lot of space.

(MORE: Biomass Boiler Guide) 

Both pellet and log machines are available as boilers or stoves with back boilers. The main difference is that pellet stoves/boilers work as a principal heat source but log stoves/boilers don’t. 

This is because pellets have a standard calorific value and are fed in a slow continuous trickle to the burner, which means that a given level of heat output can be maintained. Logs are thrown into the stove willy-nilly and heat output will vary with the quality of the logs and the amount of wood in the stove.

A gasifying log batch boiler works well as a principal heat source for houses that need a reasonably high level of heat, but they do require logs to be loaded manually. Wood pellet boilers are far more automated but the equipment is more expensive, as is the fuel.

Biomass makes more sense in larger homes with a higher heat demand, where RHI payments can offset the capital cost of buying and installing the boiler.

Benefits of Biomass Boilers

• Efficiency is generally up to 90% and biomass boilers tend to have a long life of 20-plus years.
• Wood-based biomass is considered and measured a carbon-neutral fuel.

Drawbacks of Biomass Boilers

• Biomass boilers are generally much larger than conventional boilers, so you will need plenty of space to house them, along with a store for pellets, logs or chips. For example, a one tonne palette of bagged pellets will take up roughly the same floor areas as the boiler.
• Each machine does have very individual requirements, but wood biomass boilers will need ash removal at regular intervals, from monthly for log boilers to twice a year for pellet boilers. 

Installation

Look for an installer that is HETAS registered. They should have familiarity with equipment from more than one manufacturer, and be able to work within the budget range for your choice of equipment.   

Cost

Cost varies with the type of boiler, the sophistication of the technology, size and quality. 

Fully automated wood pellet boilers installed using a typical weekly hand feed option will cost between £11,000 and £15,000, while a fully installed automated system with pellet hopper and delivery fuel system would likely cost between £20,000 and £25,000.

(MORE: Get a quote for a boiler for your project)

Grants

Biomass boilers qualify for the RHI, the government scheme whereby those with renewable heating technologies are paid back for the heat they generate. Wood pellet fuelled stoves and stove-boilers also qualify.

Biomass boilers also qualify as a primary measure in the Green Homes Grant, with grants up to £5,000 (or £10,000 for some low income houses) to spend on installation of a biomass system.

Heat Pumps

Air Source Heat Pumps

Effectively a fridge in reverse, an air source heat pump takes in air from the outside and releases it at a higher temperature. The unit looks similar to an external air conditioning kit.

The unit physically replaces the boiler, but as it delivers lower temperatures than a boiler, it needs to be carefully designed into well-insulated, airtight homes for optimum efficiency.

The heat pump use an efficiency measurement known as the Seasonal Performance Factor (SPF). This indicates performance over a whole heating season, within set parameters. Ofgem uses a Seasonal COP or SCOP, but the calculation is the same.

An advertised SPF will be based on a flow temperature of perhaps 35°C. This is suitable for underfloor heating but not radiators or domestic hot water. If the heat pump is used for anything other than underfloor heating, the SPF will fall.

The SPF is also affected by the outside air temperature, so it’s lower in winter when the most heat is needed. There is evidence that some air source heat pumps, used on their own, emit more CO2 and cost more to run than an equivalent gas boiler.

Benefits of Air Source Heat Pumps

• Comparatively low running costs.

Drawbacks of Air Source Heat Pumps

• You need a well-insulated, relatively airtight house before installing an air source heat pump which may incur extra expense.
• Electricity is still needed to power an air source heat pump. 
• Efficiency drops when temperatures fall outside.

Installation

Air source heat pumps will need to be installed by a professional. Seek out supply and fit contracts for a smoother installation process. 

There are a number of factors which can affect efficiency, and if commissioned incorrectly, air source heat pumps could use excess electricity unnecessarily. 

Installing an air source heat pump largely falls under Permitted Development, but there are some limits you'll need to adhere to, including distance from the property boundary and some exceptions on installing the external unit on a roof. 

Cost 

The cost to supply and install an air source heat pump starts from £11,000. The cost to install in a self build will be lower than in an existing property, where allowances to upgrade the building's fabric and potentially replace existing radiators could see costs of up to £27,000. 

(MORE: Air Source Heat Pump Costs Explained)

Grants 

Air source heat pumps qualify as a primary measure to receive funding from the Green Homes Grant. They also are eligible for RHI payments. 

Ground Source Heat Pumps

Underground pipes take solar energy from the ground and convert it into heat. Ground source heat pumps extract latent heat from buried ground collectors, such as trenches or more expensive boreholes.

(MORE: Ground Source Heat Pump Guide)

Make sure that your ground source heat pump is sized correctly, and that the house is designed with such a pump in mind. You may want to get advice from an energy consultant.

Benefits of a Ground Source Heat Pump

• Running cost is likely to be around 45% lower than for a gas boiler.
• Long life-span

Drawbacks of a Ground Source Heat Pump

• Again, you'll need a well-insulated, airtight house for a ground source heat pump to be effective, so you may need to invest in improvements to the fabric of your home. 
• You also need a reasonably large garden or plot of land for the buried ground collectors, such as slinkies or boreholes. 
• There will be significant disturbance to the garden to install a horizontal or vertical ground array.

Installation

Holes are dug to house the ground array, requiring either expensive equipment for vertical boreholes, or a large expanse of land in the case of horizontal arrays. 

Ground source heat pumps are expensive to install, with the cost of installation around £1,500-£2,000 per kilowatt.

There is nothing externally visible, so it is usually covered in Permitted Development meaning you shouldn't be required to seek planning permission. 

Cost 

While the ground source heat pump itself can cost anywhere between £2,000 - £15,000, installation, as already explained, can be expensive. Overall, you should budget between  £15,000 to £25,000 for complete ground source heat pump installation for a 240m2 home. 

(MORE: Ground Source Heat Pump Costs Explained) 

Grants 

MCS registered ground source heat pump installations are potentially eligible for RHI payments for seven years. Ground source heat pumps are a primary measure under the Green Homes Grant also, eligible for £5,000 or £10,000 vouchers to offset the initial expenditure. 

Wind Turbines

Wind turbines convert the wind’s kinetic energy into mechanical energy. While less popular than other renewable options, a small 1kW-2kW wind turbine may still be a viable option for some self builders. That solution might be improved by adding battery storage to the system, like the Sunamp or Tesla system.

However, the economic case for installing a 5kW or 10kW domestic scale wind turbine (based on installation costs and current tariffs) no longer stacks up.

Benefits of Wind Turbines

• Wind is a renewable energy source with no ongoing fuel costs. 

Drawbacks of Wind Turbines

• Wind speed and lack of turbulence are key. Generally the annual average wind speed needs to be over 5 metres per second (m/s)
• The turbine needs to be sited away from buildings, trees and so on
• It must not cause ‘offence’ to neighbours (typically noise offence), listed buildings or national parks
• In some areas a bird or bat survey may be needed, or an environmental impact assessment. Check the requirements with the local authority and get prices before committing.
• Wind turbines are complicated bits of kit with many mechanical components, which will fail. Look for those with comprehensive warranties. 

Installation

Wind turbines will need planning permission. Neighbours are likely to object, meaning the process can be expensive and time-consuming. You planning application will need to cover the likes of noise surveys, visual impact and also ecological studies. 

Cost 

A 5kW wind turbine would be usual for a domestic installation and will cost around £20,000-£25,000. After installation, with the work done to prep the site and get planning consent, the overall cost is likely to be around £30,000 to £40,000. 

Smaller 1kW and 2kW turbines costs from £2,000 - £4,000. 

Grants 

Wind turbines used to attract competitive rates through the FiT scheme, however this came to an end in March 2019. 

Micro Hydro Power

Micro hydro technology is available that allows a homeowner (with a stream) to generate their own power. A hydro turbine of just 500W will produce enough electricity through the year to meet the annual consumption of an energy-efficient home. You could pick up and carry a turbine that size with one hand.

What’s more, pound for pound, it’s the most efficient of all the renewable technologies. A total life in excess of 40 or 50 years, with little annual cost, is not unreasonable.

You will need a stream or river nearby that is large enough, measured by ‘head’ – the vertical distance between the highest and lowest points of the stream and ‘flow’, which is the amount of water passing a point, measured in litres per second

Benefits of Micro Hydro Power

• Largely consistent elecriticty generation compared to wind and solar power. 

Drawbacks of Micro Hydro Power

• Low head schemes (under 5m head) are less productive and more expensive than medium to high head schemes, and are often uneconomic. 

Cost 

Each scheme is specific to the stream and the price can vary hugely. According to CAT, the cost of a 1kW off-grid battery charging system ranges from £5,000 to £6,000. 

You may be able to pull together a micro hydro power set-up for under £10,000, but these costs may be up to £25,000. 

Grants

Micro hydro power installations in Great Britain are eligible for Smart Export Guarantee (SEG) payments.  SEG is an obligation for licensed electricity suppliers to offer a tariff and make payment to small-scale low-carbon generators for electricity exported to the National Grid set by the government. 

 Tips For all Renewable Systems

• Start by making your self build or extension as energy efficient as possible at the design stage.
• Check that you understand the renewable energy system and get advice from your chosen supplier about the best size and specification for your property.
• Select an installer who is certified under the Microgeneration Certification System (MCS) and uses MSC-certified products.
• Check the latest government-funded financial incentives as they change regularly.
• Unless your home is off-grid, the costs of storing energy outweigh the financial benefits, but the technology is changing rapidly.

Biomass boilers may not work for every home, but in the right setting can be a great option if you are looking for a reliable, renewable and sustainable heating option. I know because I heated my home with one.

But, if you're not familiar with the technology and are wondering exactly how they work, we've prepared this expert and first hand guide to biomass boilers to help you decide if it's the right choice to power your own home's heating system.

Choosing biomass essentially comes down to location, available space, price and if you have easy access to fuel, but as each type of boiler has different attributes, here's what you need to know.

What do biomass boilers burn?

"Strictly speaking, if you ask what is biomass fuel, the answer is it's anything that's been grown and burns," says Gordon Traill, founder and director of Treco. "Technically it includes things like straw and perhaps recycled materials. However, in relation to what most people consider as biomass, there’s a choice of wood pellets, logs and wood chips."

This is primarily down to the fact that these types of wood based products offer a cleaner burn. Biomass is also considered a carbon-neutral fuel, as CO2 is absorbed by trees as they grow (photosynthesis). And even though CO2 is emitted when the fuel is burned, the amount produced is measured as equal to that absorbed during growth, along with any additional carbon produced while manufacturing and transporting the fuel.

Types of biomass boiler

When it comes to the different types available to you, biomass boilers are identified by the type of fuel that they use – wood chip, logs or wood pellets. But, what's common to them all is that they burn the fuel to heat hot water, which in turn supplies your heating and domestic hot water system.

However, understanding which type of biomass boiler suits your property best involves taking a more in-depth look at how each type works in order to understand the pros and cons of biomass boilers.

The best starting place is perhaps understanding how much fuel is needed to heat the average home each year – something that is less easy to visualise if you have previously used fossil fuels such as gas, oil or LPG.

Once you appreciate the quantity of fuel required, then you can begin to understand why the type of biomass boiler you choose matters so much.

Log fed biomass boilers

"If we talk about a typical house, the government says the average household uses 25,000 kilowatt hours per year," says Gordon Traill. "So if we take that example of 25,000 kilowatt hours for heating and hot water in relation to a log boiler, it equates to around seven tons of logs a year."

Log boilers are gasifying batch boilers. They operate at much higher temperatures, gasifying the logs, increasing efficiency to over 90%. The boiler will have a log burning chamber that requires logs of equal lengths and thickness to be loaded in and then the door is closed for the duration of the burn.

Ideally a single "burn" or batch of logs is sufficient to heat the home and the hot water storage cylinder for at least a 24 hour period in the winter months.

"However, when you look at the overall usage per year and consider that the seven tons has to be fed, by hand, into a relatively small burning chamber, that’s a lot of fills each year," adds Gordon, noting how in winter it could be up to three times a day in the coldest weather. For some homeowners, this simply isn't an option.

Wood pellet biomass boilers

Wood pellets are considered the most consistent biomass fuel in that they are usually even in size and density. Typically made from forestry waste or by-products, the standard type in the UK is 6mm pellets, made from softwood with a low moisture content.

The benefit of a wood pellet boiler over a log fed one is that they have a box or store next to them known as a hopper. The size of the hopper depends on the output of the boiler, but every hopper has an auger (a bit like a corkscrew) that delivers the pellets to the burner chamber. The benefit of a larger hopper is that your wood pellets can be blown into it from a delivery truck - rather than you needing them to load them by hand from bags.

Alternatively, pellets are available bagged, typically in 10kg or 15kg bags delivered by the pallet load. "I’d alway suggest you opt for as large a pellet store as you can," says Gordon, "as you’ll be able to get a better deal in terms of fuel. As soon as you start having bag deliveries, unless it's a very small property, then there’s a lot of work and they're much more expensive."

It's something I can confirm first-hand, as although I had a commercially-sized biomass boiler, it still burnt wood pellets, so we included a five ton hopper as part of the installation. This meant a delivery truck could arrive, connect to the hopper and blow pellets directly inside.

On those rare occasions when blown-in pellets weren't delivered (read 6 things I wish I'd known before I installed biomass to find out why this can happen), having to handball them in every few days was not feasible as a long-term solution and always worked out to be more expensive.

Wood chip biomass boilers

Wood chips are often made from a variety of different timber products including logs, roots, twigs, bark and leaves, and in a similar way to wood pellet biomass boilers, wood chip versions have a bulk fuel store which means fuel can be loaded in larger quantities, rather than by hand.

If you are producing your own wood chip on site, this can be done using plant machinery. Blown-in deliveries are also available, but will cost a little more.

"Wood chip boilers are the cheapest form of biomass heating," says Gordon Traill, "and it’s what I use myself. However, they are more suited to much larger properties or small-holdings. I've got a farm," explains Gordon, "so I essentially have a mini scheme which covers both commercial and domestic use.

"In addition, wood chip comes in at a lower cost than any of the alternatives per kilowatt hour. In terms of sustainability they’re really good as well," he adds, "because the fuel often doesn't have to travel as far, especially if it's sourced on site.

"But, for a small home, they're not always very appropriate," says Gordon. "On a larger scale or at a commercial level however, then they can be a great option."

Where to locate a biomass boiler

Biomass boilers generally aren't installed inside your home, so it's important to understand how much space you need and where it should be located. Unlike combi boilers for example, which are often located in utility rooms, your biomass boiler won't be as close to hand so you can't keep a regular eye on it in the same way.

It's common for biomass boilers to be located in a dedicated plant room – although this doesn't have to be a purpose built room. "You need a space about the size of a single garage to house the boilers and fuel store," says Gordon, although how close that space is to your house, isn't as important when it comes to performance.

"As long your pipes are well insulated, the impact of the distance from the house to the boiler is negligible. The losses are so small, it doesn't need to be right next to it." You will of course however need to make sure that it has sufficient ventilation and is considered appropriate by your chosen biomass supplier and installer.

In terms of where I located my biomass boiler, I was fortunate to have an unused garage within a few metres from the proposed end of a new extension. However, the plant room with the heating manifolds for the hot water, radiators and underfloor heating that the hot water had to reach was another 20 metres away. Nonetheless, this never appeared to affect its efficiency in any way.

While the some boilers may only be the size of a four-drawer filing cabinet, it is mainly the fuel storage that requires more space and needs to be accessible, as you'll either be loading by hand or ensuring a delivery driver with a bulk fuel order can get within 20m of your hopper.

How a biomass boiler transfers heat

"Biomass boilers are installed with what's known as a thermal store," explains Gordon. "This stores the heat that burning the fuel creates, the principle being that even if the fuel has run out, the thermal store acts like a battery. It stores the energy and your heating could be running for many hours after the boiler has completely gone out.

"The bigger the thermal store, the longer it will run," says Gordon. "It's exactly the same as the principle with solar batteries. However, it simply stores energy, which means you've got to keep putting it back in. Once the thermal store has run out, so will your heating and hot water."

Speaking from experience, this is another reason why it's important to understand how they work when working out your energy needs to choose the right renewable energy. On those occasions when the boiler had stopped working, the size of my thermal store meant it could continue supplying heat for at least 24-36 hours before we realised. But, when it stopped, this meant taking a trip to the garage, resolving the problem and then waiting for enough fuel to burn to heat the system back up.

It's not as simple as simply re-igniting your gas boiler, so regular checks are recommended - even if your heating is working well.

Assessing whether a biomass boiler is right for you

The size and thermal efficiency of your home has an impact

In big, hard-to-heat properties, the general view is that biomass offers a good option, but less so in more typical new builds or conversions. Likewise in larger new builds biomass can be and is a viable option, particularly if you are looking to be less fossil fuel reliant.

"For me, biomass really starts to work with larger, more difficult to heat properties," says Gordon Traill. "Listed buildings for example," says Gordon, "are a great example of when they can be beneficial – providing plenty of high temperature heat but at a lower running cost."

Cost will be a deciding factor

The main reason they may not be so suitable for smaller properties usually comes down to biomass boiler costs.

The cost of biomass boilers varies far more than oil or gas boilers. The cost will also vary with the type of boiler, the level of automation and sophistication, as well as with size and quality.

"I think that realistically, with the boiler, fuel store and all the relevant install, work and connections to the home, you’re looking at upwards of £25,000," says Gordon. "Some companies may offer it for less, but it will also depend on the size of the system.

"There are some boilers which are very small scale, but there aren't so many of them around, even though they're very good. And, if it was a very small property, then they would be powered with bags of pellets, a less convenient option for some.

"When you get to much larger biomass boilers, many of the people that either run log boilers or chip boilers are self supplying," says Gordon. "So they have some woodland, they live in the country, and they have the availability to get the timber which means the running costs are significantly lower. For a large scale system, this could be as low as 4.5 pence per kilowatt hour," he confirms.

"Unfortunately, biomass boilers get little government support," explains Gordon, "so while you can get £5,000 for a biomass boiler under the Boiler Upgrade Scheme, they are still expensive. It’s just an inescapable fact," he says.

Biomass boiler efficiency vs other fuels

As the efficiency of any heating system will play a part in assessing if biomass is right for you, it is broadly similar to oil or gas, achieving around 80 to 90% efficiency. However, it's the running costs which show a marked difference, compared to air source heat pumps for example, says Gordon.

"It's a little more complicated than saying their efficiency rate isn't great compared to air source heat pumps which claim to operate at a 300% CoP efficiency rate," notes Gordon. "The reality is, this is a moving seasonal number and won’t always equate to that level.

"Electricity which heat pumps need is around 30 pence a kilowatt hour. So, if you get three to one, then you're still paying 10 pence a kilowatt hour for heat. If you if you're getting less than three to one it could be 12 to 14 pence, which is expensive.

"Wood pellets cost around £350 a ton and will deliver around 5000 kilowatt hours per ton which means you're getting around 7.5 pence a kilowatt hour more of delivery," explains Gordon.

"However, if you were to buy logs, they’re actually significantly more expensive than anything else," says Gordon, "which is why most people we would recommend a log boiler to have their own supplies of timber.

"If you were to base your fuel costs on the price of beautiful pallets of kiln logs, they would probably come in around 20 pence a kilowatt hour, which is why they are more suited to homes with woodland."

Making a choice

While deciding if a biomass boiler is right for you involves looking at your existing home or potential build, if you have decided on installing one, there are some key questions to consider when it comes to making the right choice. These involve looking at not just the boiler itself, but also the supplier and installer.

Consider the repuation of the manufacturer, how long they have been in operation and their compliance with the Microgeneration Certification Scheme (MCS). The installer must also be HETAS registered, just as a gas boiler installer needs to be Gas Safe registered and an oil boiler installer needs to be OFTEC registered.

"One thing worth mentioning when it comes to making your final choice," says Gordon, "is that you should always try to buy from a manufacturer that has support in the UK. Check that they work with a supplier where there are trained technicians who can provide spares if things do need repairing.

"It can also help when it comes to annual servicing and maintenance," he adds, "as you won’t be able to find people who can help in the same way you can for fossil fuel boilers." Approved service engineers also have to be on the MCS list.

With regards to the boiler, once you've decided on fuel type, also think about the control system – does the control system address the whole house or individual zones? Does it have remote monitoring and can it be controlled from a PC or App?

Ask about the burner control as the quality of the burner determines the efficiency of the boiler. Good boilers automatically control the air flow over the burner, ensuring it always operates at optimum efficiency and allowing the heat output to match the demand (called modulation).

Also make sure it comes with at least a two year warranty (parts and labour).

FAQs

What size biomass boiler do I need?

"Generally speaking, properties have an Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) and as a rule of thumb, this is your starting point for working out the size of boiler you need," says Gordon Traill. "If you divided your annual consumption by 1500 you'd end up very close to the boiler size.

"So, for example, if you took 25,000 kilowatt hours, divided by 1500, theoretically, you'd need a 16 to 17 kilowatt boiler. In reality, they don't make 17 kilowatt boilers, so it would be 20 to 25 kilowatt.

"EPCs are very helpful from our point of view. People are always look at the energy ratings, but the interesting information for us is the is the kilowatt hours for heating and hot water," says Gordon. "Beyond that, we would calculate all of the things that anybody would do if they were sizing an oil or gas boiler."

How long will a biomass boiler last?

"A good quality one will stand the test of time," says Gordon. "It's almost indefinite, because of the level and weight of construction involved. They are designed to last, particularly those who come from Austrian and German manufacturers."

Does a biomass boiler need much maintenance?

Maintenance will vary with the level of sophistication and is an issue that needs to be directed to the supplier and clearly understood for any particular machine.

In broad terms, boilers will need an annual maintenance service, but, otherwise, the main maintenance you will need to undertake will be regular ash removal (I would empty mine at least a few times each month during the winter), and making sure the area around it is kept clean. My system had a control panel that displayed any faults, so I would also check this on a regular basis.

Still wondering if a biomass boiler is right for you? Gordon Traill shares some final words of advice.

"I think basically anything that an oil boiler or an LPG boiler can do, a biomass boiler can do. It’s a high temperature heat source so it operates in the same way. Therefore, it's really a case of weighing up whether it's right for your situation.

"As they are on the expensive side, installing a biomass boiler is an ethical decision for people at the moment to reduce carbon emissions," he adds, "as it's still going to be better than fossil fuels.

"If you are considering where to invest your heating budget," says Gordon, "I always say the first money to spend in your heating scheme is on your home insulation and the fabric of the building. The benefit is, if you can do this, anything you install will work more efficiently.

"But, in those instances where you have a listed building for example, and sometimes not all the changes can be made, a biomass can be a good option as you will need a higher temperature heat source. After the initial investment, the running costs will always be lower than other fuel."

If you do live in a listed building and are considering all your renewable options, be sure to check out our guide to solar panels on listed buildings.

A Party Wall Agreement is a must-have for anyone starting a project that affects an adjoining property. 

In recent years the planning rules for extensions have been significantly relaxed but even homes that are extended under Permitted Development rights will still potentially need a Party Wall Agreement.

A downside to this relaxed regime is that neighbours may no longer receive notification in advance from planners alerting them to proposed extensions next door. This is where the Party Wall Act comes into play.

Find out below if your project will need a Party Wall Agreements and, if so, how to go about notifying neighbours and maintaining a good relationship. 

What are Party Wall Agreements? 

"Party Wall Agreements ensure that your neighbour doesn't suffer loss or damage to their property due to your project, and lets them limit disturbance by influencing working hours and access" explains director of content Michael Holmes.

One reason why the Party Wall Act is such a serious issue is because poorly executed structural alterations are a common cause of cracking and movement, and have even, on occasion, been implicated in the collapse of adjoining buildings. 

The Act and the agreement are in place to protect neighbouring properties and any disputes that may occur when work is carried out.

When Do I Need a Party Wall Agreement? 

The first step you must take before carrying out any physical construction onsite is to serve the adjoining owner(s) with a formal written notice, known as a Party Wall Agreement.

This normally needs to be actioned a couple of months before work begins (in some cases one month is sufficient, but the more notice you can provide the better). 

Although this initial notice can be submitted on your behalf by appointing a solicitor or surveyor, it’s often better to retain control at this preliminary stage. 

The best approach is to first talk to your neighbours about your proposed extension to put their minds at rest before you or your surveyor issues the required notice. 

If your neighbours are tenants or leaseholders you will also need to notify the freeholder or landlord. 

Another good reason for making the initial approach yourself is that lawyers specialising in this area will generally advise adjoining owners not to give consent to a party wall notice, so that even where the neighbour is perfectly happy with your proposals they may be persuaded to act in a way that seems uncooperative.

This is because if the consenting neighbour subsequently needed to engage a surveyor to protect their position they’d have to pay the surveyor’s fee (if they don’t consent, the person extending has to pay).

Is it a Legal Requirement to Have a Party Wall Agreement? 

"If your proposed project includes works to a shared party wall or structure, you are required by law to serve notice on all affected neighbours at least two months before work starts," says Michael Holmes.

Below are some of the projects you will most likely need a Party Wall Agreement before starting work:

1. Building foundations: if excavation is within a distance of 3m from the adjoining property, or where your new trench is deeper than their existing foundations. 

2. Loft conversions: if you need to rest a new structural beam within the party wall when converting your loft.

3. Building an extension or a new wall: if you build right up to or astride the garden boundary wall or alter a party wall when building an extension.

4. Adding a basement: if you’re digging deep foundations, are underpinning the party wall or need to cut into the party wall to insert beams.

5. Removing a chimney stack: if your chimney stack is shared with a neighbour as masonry you cut away will form part of the party wall.

Can You Do a Party Wall Agreement Yourself? 

If your project is covered by the Act, a Party Wall Notice can be served to neighbours yourself, or using a Party Wall Surveyor (more on which below). 

Perhaps surprisingly, it doesn’t have to be an official legal document, although it must include certain key information along with drawings and details of the work.

The precise forms you need to issue will depend on the type of work you want to carry out. You can download appropriate Party Wall Notice forms online. 

You give the Notice with a letter setting out your intentions, sent to all the owners of every neighbouring property affected.

A sample letter is included within this Party Wall Act booklet.

Remember to include all the key information, including:

•  the date the Notice is served 
•  the date work will start 
•  all parties’ names and addresses 
•  a description of the proposed work 

If you don’t do this, your Notice will be invalid. 

Can a Party Wall Agreement be Verbal?

A verbal Party Wall Agreement will not be recognised as the official Party Wall Act has not been served. Consent or disapproval will need to be confirmed in writing ,although if your neighbours don't reply within the given timeframe, you are free to continue construction work. 

How Much Does a Party Wall Agreement Cost?

For a straightforward job outside London with an adjoining owner dissenting to the works, fees are likely to be in the region of £1,000-2,000 plus VAT.

Fees will depend on the nature and complexity of the work being undertaken as well as the number of adjoining owners. And it is not always the case that the person instigating the work will pay all parties’ fees.

To get an accurate quote, consult a RICS accredited surveyor. It’s also worth consulting them if you have had a Party Wall Notice served on you.

Is a Party Wall Notice Mandatory? 

If things turn sour with your neighbour and they suspect that the work being carried out will adversely affect their home, they can seek a court injunction to stop you from continuing.

If you haven’t obeyed the Act and you cause major damage to your neighbour’s property, the judge can award compensation for any loss or damage resulting from the works, including legal costs.

An approved Notice is the only way to prevent this.

How Long Does a Party Wall Agreement Take?

Once the neighbours have been served with the notice they then have 14 days to respond on the acknowledgement form included with the original notice.

Once complete, present this, together with a copy of the Act and explanatory booklet, to your neighbour two months before starting. 

Your neighbour will have 14 days to provide written approval or rejection. Let them know a template is available for both options in the explanatory booklet.

Then the following happens:

•  If they approve, your Notice will be valid for a year to complete work 
•  If they reject or do not respond within 14 days, then you’re deemed to be in dispute 

What Happens if the Neighbours Object?

Should they disagree, or simply not bother to reply, the law deems this as non-consent and that a ‘dispute’ has arisen. 

The Act then provides a process for the dispute to be resolved. It’s important to note that the adjoining owners cannot legally prevent the proposed building work from taking place because, for example, they don’t like the idea of an extension next door, since this is a planning issue.

The only situations where they can actually prevent the construction work from proceeding is where an extension needs ‘special foundations’ such as piles.

In this example the neighbours could refuse outright, potentially scuppering the project. 

They are also allowed to refuse construction of what would become a new party wall if it’s actually located on their garden boundary.

How Do I Get a Party Wall Award? 

If approval is impossible, then you will have to assign an ‘agreed surveyor’ or two surveyors to prepare a Party Wall Award. 

This ‘Award’ covers:

•  the work that can be carried out 
•  how the works will proceed 
•  timings 
•  measures for preventing damage 
•  the payment of surveyors’ fees 
•  the current condition of both properties 
•  most importantly, costs payable to the adjoining owner if damage occurs 

Assigning a Party Wall Surveyor 

When a neighbour’s consent can’t be obtained the next step is normally to find a party wall surveyor. 

You’re allowed to appoint a single ‘agreed surveyor’ to act jointly for both property owners because legally a party wall surveyor has to act as an impartial independent expert rather than as the agent for the client who appointed them

The main concern is whether the people offering these services are sufficiently qualified and experienced. Some may not be ‘proper’ RICS Chartered Surveyors (anyone can call themselves a ‘surveyor’).

Furthermore, party wall work is a complex specialist field and only a minority of chartered surveyors carry out this work.

So search specifically for party wall surveyors, for example on Right Survey. 

It’s worth noting that experienced practitioners specialising in this area are often members of the quaintly named ‘Pyramus and Thisbe Club’. 

What Does a Party Wall Surveyor Do? 

In short, party wall surveyors help mitigate risk to all parties, and ensure that projects can progress without delay.

If you correctly serve notice on your neighbours and damage occurs, any disputes over that damage will be dealt with by surveyors rather than at common law.

What if There is Still a Dispute? 

It goes without saying that the resulting expense, disruption, and possible contractual issues caused by having to stop work can be debilitating, hence the importance of complying with the legislation from the outset. 

If your neighbour doesn’t receive the required advance legal notification and then one fine day encounters builders excavating alongside their boundary they can apply for an injunction to stop work. 

This can be done very quickly by lodging a claim in the County Court. 

The injunction will then be served on the owner of the property being extended, ordering work on site to stop, with a date in court fixed so both sides can put their case. 

Normally the errant building owner will acknowledge in court that they’ve failed to comply with the Party Wall Act, and must give a written undertaking that they will henceforth comply, with the retrospective appointment of party wall surveyor(s) to issue an Award.