Clever shade sail ideas are the latest way to help you make the most of your outdoor living space in summer. They offer a source of shade and even UV protection, keeping your family safe from the harsh rays during the summer months.

Waterproof shade sails can also protect against showers in rainy weather, allowing you to spend more time outside in comfort. These semi-permanent structures are an excellent addition to any garden or patio area as they are so easy to install and are available in various designs to suit all individual styles.

Whether you're looking to shelter a compact deck or a larger outdoor dining space, these practical and often budget-friendly designs are one of the best patio ideas out there.

1. Shield your interior space from the sun

Awnings are excellent for gardens that get bathed in sunshine as they provide shade right at the entrance to your property, the ideal location for a dining table. In doing so, this coverage allows you to leave your patio doors open without worrying that your home may overheat.

Their downside is that awnings are an expensive purchase, likely to set you back a fair amount. Luckily, you can create a similar patio cover set up with an inexpensive rectangular shade sail. Simply attach two fixtures to your exterior wall just above your patio doors, with the other two outer corners attached to nearby poles, trees or adjacent garden walls.

"A sail shade can be a more affordable option to an awning," says Evie Lane, former gardening expert at Primrose. "They also provide the benefit of being a more flexible garden addition than a permanent awning structure."

2. Shelter an outdoor living space with a sail shade

If you're not a fan of pergola ideas, a sail shade is a great alternative for creating shade where you need it most (which is usually your outdoor living area).

Add a design overhead and you will have a space that you can enjoy even when the sun is at its hottest and highest, while enhancing the feeling of having an ‘extra room’ outdoors.

Triangular sails work best for covering smaller or more precise areas, while square or rectangular sails provide greater coverage but require more space and stronger support.

3. Supersize your sail shade for sun safety

Go for a big design if you want to ensure your patio furniture space stays completely sheltered from the sun. The shade sail above by Wayfair offers 98% UV resistance, so you can stay warm alfresco without having to reapply sunscreen every couple of hours.

Alternatively, if you lack the space for a large sail, a mini version will work just as well. Small shade sail ideas are a stylish alternative to garden parasols and are perfect for sheltering a bistro set.

If you choose a waterproof option, ensure that one corner is lower to allow sufficient drainage.

4. Invest in a semi-permanent shade

Shade sails are often sold without the fixtures or poles needed to set them up in your garden as a freestanding design. Each shade sail set up has different needs depending on your outdoor space, so these can usually be purchased separately from the same company.

The gazebo/shade sail hybrid above, however, comes complete with all the fixtures and fittings required to install it freestanding in your garden right away. The frame is made from powder-coated steel and the sail is fixed on in multiple points to ensure a solid and taut shade.

We love how it creates a really simple yet stylish patio or decking cover, drawing attention to the main outdoor seating area in this urban back garden.

5. Try some colour overhead

While the majority of shade sails tend to be white, they do come in a variety of colours, just like you find with patio umbrellas and awnings.

If your garden needs a bit of a style boost whilst being kind to your bank balance, colourful shade sail ideas are perfect for creating a cheap garden shelter with a dash of warmth. They can also be a great way to create a BBQ shelter, offering protection from the sun when you are cooking alfresco.

Shop colourful shade sails

6. Shelter while you dine

The joy of dining outdoors can be somewhat kerbed if you’re sweating into your salad in the hot sun.

Although a pergola can be a wonderful shade-creating addition to an outdoor kitchen space, if you don't have the time and means to learn how to build a pergola, then a shade sail is a quick and cheap alternative.

Hanging a shade sail overhead means that you and your guests can enjoy the fresh air that outdoor dining affords, without feeling uncomfortable as you eat.

7. Zone a corner with a shade sail

A corner outdoor sofa placed against a garden wall or tall garden fence is perfectly matched with a triangular shade sail.

Depending on the size and length of your sofa, you may need to choose a triangular design that has two long sides and one short, or an equilateral shape to ensure everyone seated gets the most amount of shade when the sun is at its highest. Secure it to the wall or fence in the corner and to the far edges on the two outer sides.

8. Go small for both sun and shade options

Some people like to be bathed in sunshine, while others prefer to keep cool in the shade. Give everyone the luxury of both options by hanging a small triangular shade over a square or rectangular seating area.

In the example above, the shade partially covers the table, giving everyone the option to choose where they want to sit comfortably.

9. Choose a portable sail shade

One of the issues when going for a picnic or camping is the lack of shade while you relax outdoors. Unlike features such as garden arbours, shade sails are perfectly portable – all you need is a vertical surface or tree and a few lengths of rope to hang the corners from.

What’s more, they will also protect you from an unexpected rain shower, too. If the rain does make an appearance, just make sure that you tension your sail fully in order for the rainwater to run off.

FAQs

Which is the best shade sail design for my space?

Shade sails usually come in a range of shapes – square, rectangle, equilateral triangle and right-angled triangle.

"There is no size or shape that is any better than the next," explains Claire Maclean, Founder of Clara Shade Sails. "It all depends on the space you are trying to cover, where your fixing points are and how much shade and weather protection you want."

"You’ll want to order a shade sail that is slightly smaller than the area you want to cover," advises Nadia McCowan Hill, Resident Style Advisor at Wayfair. "A smaller size prevents the sail from blowing around in windy weather and causing structural damage to the attachment points."

"When installing the shade sail, you will pull it taut and stretch it as far as possible. It’s key that the material of your shade sail begins 30cm from your anchor point."

What can you use for shade sail posts?

"Once you've chosen the location for your shade sail that works best, you need to determine the attachment points. These can be trees, your house, a fence post, or any sturdy structure such as a pergola," says Nadia McCowan Hill.

How taut should a shade sail be?

"If you're just wanting a sail to create some temporary shade, then many of our customers are happy to just loosely tie their sails," says Claire Maclean. "Installing this way achieves more of a billowy look and, particularly with the smaller sails, this can look and work quite nicely in a garden and also inside in a conservatory."

"If, however, you are intending to use the sail during wet weather or are intending to leave it out as a more permanent addition to your patio then your sail should ideally be pulled very tight. The curved sides allow for this additional tension," Claire advises.

"One of our customers used the term 'tight as a drum' to describe her successful installation. Pulling them taut and installing them on an angle will make sure the water runs off and doesn’t pool or puddle on top."

Are shade sails good for rain?

"We recommend that shade sails are taken down during extreme weather such as high winds and very heavy rain,", advises Claire Maclean, Founder Director at Clara Shade Sails.

"If you are intending to use a shade sail during wet weather," continues Claire, "you must install your sail at an angle of 20-30 degrees, depending on the size of your sail, to allow any rain water to run off.

"Where some posts are higher than others, a diagonal line will be involved which will change the length of your measurement. If square or rectangle, two of the corners will need to be positioned lower than the others, and if a triangle, at least one of the corners. However, if water does collect on top, all is not lost. Just use a broom handle or similar to push from underneath to push the water off the top," she says.

Offering protection from the sun and rain, these innovative shade sail ideas are a great addition to any garden space. Quicker and easier to install than more permanent patio covers, they're a cost-effective way to create a more comfortable outdoor living area.

Adding a shade sail is also a way of creating a more private outdoor space during the warmer months. For a more permanent garden screening idea, you might want to consider investing in one of the best trees for privacy too.

Add some BBQ shelter ideas to your garden design plans and you'll be able to make the most of your outdoor cooking zone come rain or shine. It's the best way to extend your alfresco living space and enjoy the fresh air for longer, and there are plenty of options to suit all sorts of plots.

An overhead cover isn't just practical, but it can also give the visual appeal of your zone a boost. And, it can even up the sense of privacy – handy for overlooked, urban spaces.

So, if you you've found yourself cooking outside more this year, then it's well worth considering BBQ shelter ideas, to protect you both from the sun and showers.

1. Create semi-shade with a striking side structure

Looking for a BBQ shelter to suit a modern garden? Something like this could be the perfect approach.

Adding such a simple, yet statement structure over your BBQ or outdoor kitchen is a great way to provide respite from the summer sun's glare. What's more, it provides definition to the zone.

Of course, it looks super stylish, too – we particularly like the contrast it provides against all the cool paved surroundings. And the bordering plants are the ideal match for a splash of architectural greenery.

2. Install a chic garden building for an outdoor living room

If you've got the budget and the space, consider a contemporary garden building to house your alfresco cooking and entertaining zone.

Integrated lights, chic wooden paneling, and a sturdy roof make this the perfect base for outdoor socialising in style – whatever time of day and whatever season.

A large, laid-back dining setup and comfy sofa complete this garden pergola idea – what more could you need for post-swim refreshments?

3. Choose a timber gazebo to shelter your BBQ

Gazebos are a classic garden feature that will never go out of style, particularly if you opt for a timber-framed version.

As long as you ensure there's enough clearance around your appliance, they are a great solution for covering an outdoor grill and complement almost any style of garden.

Pair your BBQ gazebo with timber-cladded counters to enhance the laid-back, naturalistic look and maintain a sense of cohesion. And for an even more comfortable outdoor experience, consider adding patio heaters attached up high to the structure. That way, you can keep guests happy and conversation flowing, even as night falls and temperatures drop.

4. Include a bar in your BBQ shelter

Combine your built-in BBQ ideas with a garden bar for the ultimate garden party setup. Add in a pizza oven, too, and you can mix up your culinary creations to suit the mood.

This sturdy shelter sits beautifully in the patio space, complementing the nearby rattan furniture. Cladded walls on two sides mean there's plenty of privacy screening from neighbours, while enabling the addition of useful shelves and decorative signs.

Shop furniture and decor for your BBQ area

5. Team a contemporary BBQ with a modern pergola

Plenty of people consider pergolas when designing decks or patios, and for good reason. From simple, timber constructions to high-tech, louvered designs with closing pergola roofs, they're a classic solution for providing a spot of shade.

And, there are plenty of ways they can be dressed up to elevate the look and feel of your outdoor space, too – from climbing plants trained around their structure to outdoor garden lighting.

We love how this design mirrors the BBQ station with its industrial-cool charcoal tone. And, the duo of pendant lights are both pretty and practical.

6. Get back to basics and BBQ over a garden fireplace

Love the thought of outdoor fireplace ideas for your garden? These rustic features are a surefire way to make a statement. And they aren't just for keeping everyone feeling cosy – add in some racks and grilling tools and you can cook up a feast over the flames.

Install your fireplace and chimney into a designated garden building and you can guarantee that it will get plenty of use all throughout the year. You could even take inspiration from this scene in terms of the log storage solution used – a stylish way to separate a dining area from a more relaxed, lounging zone.

7. Add lights to your outdoor structure for nighttime BBQs

Any patio screening idea can benefit from some outdoor lights. That way, the space will feel just as welcoming when the sun sets – just what you want when hosting summer evening soirées with loved ones. Take a look at this stunning setup, for instance.

Strings of festoon lights attached to the beams of a pergola or the roof of a gazebo are always a reliable choice for recreating that chilled-out, beach-bar vibe. And as well as boosting the ambience, it will allow you to see exactly what you're doing should you wish to continue cooking.

8. Keep your BBQ shelter simple and sleek

Keep the look clean and considered with a slick garden build like this that doubles up to define the boundary of your plot.

Recessed spotlights are always a good option for that subtle, streamlined look – whether you install them into the ceiling or into the paving or decking underfoot. This space benefits from under-counter lighting too – a contemporary way to brighten up any outdoor eating or dining area.

We also like the mix of materials here, which includes brushed stainless steel and granite worktops and plenty of timber for a relaxed, organic feel.

9. Add extra shelter with slatted panels

Opting for slatted panels, whether it's on a garden building like this or a simple screen between garden zones, is a great way to provide privacy and shelter while allowing light and air through.

It results in a pleasing, modern look, that's both stylish and practical. It can be particularly helpful in west-facing gardens where the late afternoon or evening sun may still be too bright. Pair with brightly coloured counters for a fun scheme that's perfect for a family garden.

10. Cover your cooking zone with an oversized parasol

When considering BBQ shelter ideas, don't forget about the less permanent options as well. Sometimes, a large garden parasol is just the thing for the job – particularly if you don't want to splash too much cash, or prefer to let the full force of the sunlight in at times.

One of the main benefits of a parasol, besides the generally lower price, is that they are so versatile – simply pop them up in the case of light drizzle or glaring sun. A side-pole design is often the best choice as it won't get in the way as you cook. And, for evening entertaining, you could take inspiration from this scene and suspend string lights around the canopy.

Shop for outdoor parasols

FAQs

What do you need to consider when choosing a BBQ shelter for your plot?

There are lots of factors to bear in mind when choosing your BBQ shelter ideas. One of the most important aspects is, of course, the safety implications. Jacques Shelton, MD of CENA Outdoor Kitchens, explains how any type of parasol, fabric shade, or shelter will need to be flame retardant, so always check the specifications to be sure.

If you're using a fabric shelter, Jacques also advises choosing a wipe-clean or washable design, "to prevent stains from smoke or flare-ups if you use a parasol over a BBQ or wood-fired oven."

Jacques also notes the importance of providing plenty of clearance between the heat source and fabric – essential even when it is flame retardant. This goes for sturdier structures too – if in any doubt, always check with the manufacturer as well as checking your BBQ requirements. And, "if a space is in any way enclosed, think about ventilation," he adds. "For example, ensuring there is the ability to open doors, glass walls, and roofs."

You'll want your shelter to be practical for your needs, as well as safe. "We think carefully about what the canopy is for, as rain covers and shades may need different solutions," explains Jacques. "Rain covers can be fixed, such as an oak-framed gazebo or a dedicated open-on-two-sides garden building. But, those going for shade solutions will need to consider the aspect and the movement of the sun, so we consider the best position or use something which can be moved – for example, a sail shade."

Fancy creating your own BBQ? Find out how to build a brick BBQ yourself, and if you think you might be hardy enough for year-round outdoor cooking, take a look at the best outdoor log-burners for a spot of extra warmth.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Although they are generally low-maintenance, there are a few common bay tree problems to get to grips with if you're planting one or two of these evergreens in your garden.

Bay tree problems are generally not too complicated – their easy care regime is one of the reasons they make one of the best trees to grow in pots. However, if you've spotted yellowing leaves, odd markings, loss of vigour, or other unexpected symptoms on your tree, then you'll likely want to get to the cause.

Below, we've rounded up top advice on how to identify and treat common issues that occur with these structural, aromatic trees, so you can continue to enjoy them in your back garden.

1. Scale insects

If you've spotted odd blemishes on the leaves of your bay tree, they have turned yellow and started to drop off, or have become coated in a sticky-like substance, scale insects may be the problem.

As John Negus, a renowned horticulturalist and gardening journalist explains, these are tiny, armadillo-shaped creatures that weaken trees by feeding on sap while releasing a sticky, honeydew-like substance.

You can control them with an insecticide that's safe to use on edible crops. Based on rape seed oil, it clogs the pest's breathing pores, which kills it. It is recommended for several pests. Alternatively, John suggests spraying the tree with a mild solution of washing-up liquid and water.

Additionally, fertilising the plants with sulfate of potash monthly from mid-spring to early fall is a good idea. Sprinkle it over the root area at 28g per square metre and water it in.

2. Restricted roots

If you have planted your bay tree in a garden planter and it's looking unhappy, it could be the size of the pot that's the problem.

Your tree could be distressed because its container is full of roots, so move the tree to a pot that is at least double the existing size. Water the compost to loosen feeding roots clinging to the side of the pot and gently remove the rootball.

Then, in the new pot, add a layer of crocks and nestle the roots into 7cm of soil-based compost mixed with a quarter part, by volume, of grit. Fill with more compost.

Replant the bay at the same depth at which it is growing and water it well. Mulching the top of the compost with slate or grit will help conserve moisture.

3. Bay suckers

Brown, curling leaves on a bay tree can be a sign of bay suckers – a pest resembling fluffy white stars that devours leaf undersides.

"When feeding, this creature causes the plant's leaves to develop thick, distorted bulges," explains John Negus. "Luckily, although this is unsightly, it doesn't do irrevocable damage to the bay." However, severe infestations can cause leaves to drop prematurely, and shoots to die.

As for controlling it, the best approach is to pick off and bin or burn affected foliage. Clear away fallen leaves and other debris from the base of the plant, too.

You could also use a pesticide, although several applications may be necessary. Remember to use one that's safe for edible crops if using the leaves for cooking. Ideally, do this during warm sunny days in spring, when the adults cluster on the shoot tips to feed before laying their eggs.

"Alternatively, encourage natural predators such as birds, ladybirds, wasps and ground beetles to frequent your garden," says John.

4. Leaf spot

Leaf spot is a fungal disease, which, John Negus explains, shows as necrotic gray or brown spots on the leaf.

"The best way to deal with
it is through good hygiene
and improved growing conditions," he says.

Start by removing affected leaves and raking up any fallen leaves. Then, feed the plant a balanced fertiliser early in spring to encourage new growth.

5. Winter damage

Bay trees are generally hardy to -5°C, according to the RHS, and can survive even lower temperatures if planted in a sheltered position. Simply wrapping pots in two layers of heavy-duty bubble wrap, covering the compost surface with 7–10cm of chipped bark, and positioning pots close to a south-facing wall is usually enough.

However, it's not a good idea to prune them during cold weather. Frosts can damage the cut surfaces, resulting in possible dieback. Instead, trimming the trees several times during the growing season is needed, stopping in early autumn.

Harsh winter conditions can also cause the bark to peel and crack, especially on main stems lower down on the plants, says the RHS. Although it may look unsightly, it tends not to be fatal, and generally, bays should recover the following summer. If parts of the plant die, however, simply remove these by cutting back to healthy wood or right down to near soil level.

These bay tree problems may be common, but by keeping an eye out for the above symptoms and following our expert-backed solutions, they’ll be revived in no time.

For more gardening advice, read our guide to box blight or learn about the worst time of year to prune a hedge.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

As cute as they may be, moles can be an absolute nuisance in the garden, leaving unsightly muddy hills in their path (which isn't ideal when you've spent months perfecting your garden design).

While moles are not dangerous and don't tend to eat plants, their digging can cause a big old mess on your lawn, so we don't blame you if you're looking for ways to get rid of them.

However, it's worth bearing in mind that moles are protected against cruelty under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1996, so extra care needs to be taken when dealing with them (which we would recommend anyway). To find out how to prevent them from tearing up your garden, keep reading.

How do I get rid of moles in my lawn?

When it comes to preventing moles in your garden, it all boils down to making the environment as unappealing as possible so they don't want to stick around for long. You can do this in three ways:

1. Keep the soil dry

Moles prefer damp or wet soil because it's easier to dig through. If possible, Tony King, Founder of The Pied Piper, recommends reducing excessive irrigation. Not only will this make the environment harder for them to tunnel through, but it will also reduce their food source (worms).

2. Install a sonic device

You may also want to install ultrasonic repellers, which emit low-frequency sounds and vibrations that moles find uncomfortable (it won't harm or kill them). These devices are also commonly used around the home to prevent other unwanted pests, such as rats and mice.

3. Have a cat or dog

If you've been thinking about adopting a new furry friend, we have some good news – they may also help deter moles from your garden, according to Darren Backhouse, Partner at MJ Backhouse Pest Control. While we wouldn't encourage you to get a pet for just this reason, it is a little bonus!

Why have moles suddenly appeared in my garden?

Wondering why moles have suddenly started appearing in your garden?

Darren Backhouse explains, "Most people only notice they have a mole when molehills appear, so the mole might have been there longer than you realise. They're attracted to damp soil where there’s a good food source for them."

How long will moles live in a garden?

Unless the soil becomes too dry or their food source declines, Darren Backhouse says that moles won't go away on their own and can live for around two to five years, (depending on the presence of predators).

Should you stomp down mole tunnels?

You may think that stomping on a tunnel will help the moles get the memo, but according to Tony King, it's not going to rid of them.

However, it will help you to determine which tunnel was recently used. "[If they] rebuild a tunnel within a couple of days after collapse, it tells you there is activity present in that location," he says.

While there isn't a quick fix for banishing moles from your garden, these preventative steps will help reduce and remove them over time.

For more pest control advice, read our guide on how to get rid of ants in the garden and how to get rid of chafer grubs in your garden.

As someone who works from home, I dream of an office space in which to shut myself away, somewhere I can keep all my equipment and supplies neatly stowed. I long for a wall of shelving complete with lamps, folders and trailing plants, an inspiration board hanging on the wall – all made complete by a beautifully organised desk and super comfortable chair.

Instead, my home office design comprises the breakfast bar, where I perch on a particularly uncomfortable stool and am regularly disturbed by children, pets, deliveries and the noise of the dishwasher. Not for long though. As part of our planned remodel and extension we will be constructing a garden office which, we hope, will double as a guest bedroom with shower room.

If, like me, a garden office is on your wish list, you'll be pleased to know I've been doing some research that should help. I reached out to the experts to find out which types of garden office there are, and the pros and cons to expect from each.

1. Flat packed timber systems

When people begin to look at how to build a garden room they tend to start with flat pack garden offices, often made from timber. These are a great budget option, starting from as little as £1,000.

They come in various designs. At the very basic end of the spectrum they are little more than garden sheds, waiting to be upgraded, while more expensive models are more like sturdy log cabins. Often, this type of garden office is available with a number of optional upgrades, such as double glazing, thicker wall and floor construction, insulation and so on.

"Timber is usually the cheapest way in, and for a lot of people it's fine," picks up Peter Barr, managing director at SIPCO. "The catch is that it only works as a year-round room if the insulation and moisture control are sorted from the start. If you skip that, you get something that's freezing by November and stifling by July, which is no good if you're using it every day."

"These timber buildings can often be purchased from garden centres or online suppliers and installed within a day or two," adds Gabrielle Allen, director of operations at InFrame Garden Rooms. "They are a good option for occasional use spaces where budget is the main consideration.

"The downside is that these buildings can struggle with temperature control," continues Gabrielle. "There is also very little flexibility in terms of design or layout. When it comes to selling a property, these structures are often viewed more as storage spaces or upgraded sheds, rather than true additional living space."

Pros:

• Budget-friendly
• Range of upgrades
• Readily available
• Quick to get up and running

Cons:

• Temperature regulation can be difficult
• DIY assembly required
• Shorter lifespan than other build systems

2. Modular garden offices

Next up are modular garden offices. Again, these come in all kinds of sizes and designs and are usually customisable, with the option of adding features such as electricity, lighting, heating and so on. They are most often constructed from timber or structural insulated panels (SIPs), but composite and fibre cement are also available.

Prices start from around £6,000 for basic double-glazed, fully insulated models with multi-point locking systems designed to be constructed on a DIY basis. However, if you want more than simple garden room ideas and are willing to stretch your budget, you can layer on extras such as lighting, superior insulation and so on, and many companies also offer free construction services within a set radius too.

"Modular is the quick option. Set sizes, set finishes, fewer decisions to make, installed fast," says Peter Barr. "You trade flexibility for that though, so if you've got an awkward plot, or you care about where the glazing and doors land, it can feel a bit 'off-the-peg'."

Pros:

• Customisable yet cheaper than bespoke
• Range of construction materials, from timber to composite
• Huge design choice available
• Insulation, flooring and double glazing included
• Secure
• Installation often included

Cons:

• Less design flexibility than fully bespoke
• Quality varies – do your research

3. Bespoke brick and block structures

This option is basically like building a little house in your garden and offers tonnes of flexibility in terms of design. While an architect or house designer is not necessarily a requirement, taking this route will ensure you are making the most of the space you have available.

While some people bravely decide to undertake this kind of build on a DIY basis, timescales are likely to be longer than for other types of garden room construction when opting for this route – hence why most people hire a builder to carry out the work.

It is extremely difficult to give costs for this type of structure given the fact that each will be different and, if you plan on adding in plumbing for bathrooms and kitchens, garden room heating and so on, costs will obviously rise. It is fair to say, however, that this is usually a more expensive route than either modular or flat-packed.

While garden room planning permission is not usually required for this type of structure, provided it falls within permitted development rights, building regulations will most certainly need to be adhered to.

Pros:

• Design and layout freedom
• Solid, well-insulated construction
• Add value to a house
• Various cladding options
• Useable year-round

Cons:

• Foundations required
• More expensive than modular or flat-pack
• Professional input usually needed
• Building regs approval necessary
• Longer build times

4. Timber frame buildings

A bespoke timber frame garden office is a beautiful way of creating a garden room or outbuilding.

Merry Albright, creative director at Border Oak, explains what this route involves. "Our garden offices are based upon the same construction principles as our oak framed outbuildings, but have upgraded and insulated panels so they form extra accommodation and work well as studios, home offices, art and craft rooms or a range of mixed uses. Often the buildings are weatherboarded as this is a good material for all sorts of settings and relatively cost effective. The trick is to work with a company with good quality cladding options.

"There are lots of design options and possibilities in terms of glazing variations, joinery and so on, and also oak frame options, including vaulted ceilings or porches, log stores and verandas," continues Merry. "The benefits are many – the buildings are beautiful and add real value to the host house, as well as complementing the garden. They last a long time and are lovely to work from (and impressive for visitors too) but they are also super sustainable and easy to build.

"Prices start at around £15,000 for a simple frame and panel encapsulation (for a local builder to complete, perhaps), and around £30,000 for a completed building," adds Merry. "For larger designs, which typically combine other uses such as a gym, garaging or extra bedrooms, we would suggest a budget of £50k upwards."

Pros:

• Beautiful additions to houses and gardens
• Add lots of value
• Multiple uses
• Characterful interiors
• Simple frames can be more affordable

Cons:

• At the higher end of the price scale
• Foundations needed
• Building regs approval required

5. SIPs structures

Structural insulated panels – or SIPs – are increasingly being used for garden offices, both modular and fully-bespoke. They are made of a double layer of oriented strand board (OSB3) with a solid insulation core, and offer fantastic thermal properties and speedy build times.

Beth Boulton, marketing director at Eurocell, explains how a modular SIPs garden office is constructed. "SIPs are rigid insulated panels that form the walls, roof and floor of the structure, maximising thermal efficiency. The exterior is typically finished in composite resin cladding, which lasts significantly longer than traditional timber alternatives – up to three times longer according to research. It also requires far less upkeep over that lifespan."

"What really decides whether a garden office works in winter is the build-up of the walls, floor and roof," explains Peter Barr. "With SIPs you're starting from a shell that's already strong and well-insulated, rather than bolting performance onto a frame afterwards."

There are basic SIPs flat pack kits available, designed for DIY installation, which start from around £5,000, or companies specialising in bespoke builds using this system.

Pros:

• Very thermally efficient
• Quick to construct
• Bespoke and flat-pack available

Cons:

• Very airtight so ventilation needs to be addressed to avoid condensation issues
• Can be trickier to assemble for DIYers than timber

6. Steel frame bespoke packages

Steel-framed garden rooms are an increasingly popular option – and for good reason.

Gabrielle Allen explains their benefits. "Because we work with steel frame construction, we have greater flexibility than traditional systems. No two offices we build are ever the same. Clients can customise everything to do with their home office ideas, from the overall size and glazing layout to door positioning, desk locations and even where individual plug sockets and printer points are placed. Every building is completely custom made.

"What surprises many clients is that full customisation does not necessarily mean significantly higher costs," continues Gabrielle. "Our steel-frame garden rooms typically start from around £20,000 depending on size and specification."

Pros:

• Fast installation
• Brilliant structural strength
• Design flexibility thanks to strength-to-weight ratio
• Great for modern offices

Cons:

• More expensive than flat-pack timber and modular offices
• Less thermally efficient than timber so good, breathable insulation required
• If fabricated off-site, access needs to be addressed

FAQs

Which type of garden office adds the most value to a house?

In the majority of cases, a house with a garden office will be really appealing to potential buyers, meaning it is a great way to add value to a home.

"The offices that add the most value are the ones that work as an actual room," explains Peter Barr. "Power, heating, decent glazing, a finish that doesn't look like a basic outbuilding. A buyer can picture using it for whatever they want, which is the whole point."

"The key is the quality of construction, not price tier per se," adds Beth Boulton. "A well-specified self-build kit with proper insulation, double glazing and a durable exterior finish will add more value than a cheaper installed garden room, with poor thermal performance and cladding that deteriorates within a decade. What valuers and prospective buyers look for is whether a garden room functions as a credible additional room, not what it costs.

"Some estimates suggest a properly installed, durable garden room could increase property price by 5–15%, with the uplift most pronounced in urban and commuter-belt areas where internal square footage comes at a premium," adds Beth.

Many people considering building a new room in their garden ask 'can you use a garden room as a bedroom?' While in many cases the answer will be yes, there are some important factors to take into consideration before ploughing ahead. It's the same if you're planning a garden room with a bathroom, so make sure, like me, you do your research before you sign on the dotted line.

Struggling with box blight in your hedges or borders? Or maybe you're looking for precautionary measures to prevent it having seen it break out in neighbouring gardens. It's a common gardeners' woe, but luckily there are a few ways to keep your plot free of this fungal disease.

Many people learn how to grow boxwood as part of their garden design, and for good reason. The evergreen shrub is perfect for low hedging that can distinguish different zones without impeding views through the space. It's perfect for topiary, too, because it's dense with small glossy leaves and can be clipped into a whole host of shapes. It'll thrive in sun or shade as well.

Box blight, however, spoils the timeless look of these shrubs by creating unsightly dead patches. But, there are ways to reduce the risk of this disease taking over. And if yours are already infected, there are things you can do to tackle the spread, too.

How to identify box blight

First things first – you'll need to know how to spot box blight if you have it in your garden. The earlier you catch it, the less damage it can do.

A 'dead patch' is the classic look of box blight, explains Graham Rice, gardening expert and published author. "Branches die back and bare patches appear, creating ugly, dead areas in your hedge or topiary. It attacks small topiary and dwarf hedges more than larger specimen plants or tall hedges.

"Box blight can spread quickly, especially in wet weather," he warns, "and the first sign is leaves turning brown and dropping off. Check the stems, too, as black streaks often appear on younger ones," says Graham.

How to prevent box blight

However you're using box in your garden, be it as plants for garden screening or to hone your topiary skills, then it's well worth knowing how to reduce the risk of box blight.

1. Trim your box shrubs at the right time, in the right way

Monty Don revealed some top tips on caring for box hedges and topiary on his website, which will help prevent blight.

Box needs clipping from time to time to keep it in shape. When you do so, check the weather forecast, says Monty – you'll need a few days of dry weather to do this task. The cut leaves and stems are more susceptible to the box blight fungus when the wounds are fresh, he explains. But, dry weather stops the spores of the fungus from being active, and leaves time for the wounds to scar over so they are less vulnerable to the disease. The start of summer is the time to give your box a trim, he adds.

Don't forget, however, if you are using box for hedges, you'll also need to check the best time to cut hedges, as there are rules and regulations in place to protect wildlife and birds in your garden.

It's also very important to ensure your garden shears or hedge trimmers are really sharp and clean. In fact, it's a good idea to clean your tools between pruning box in different areas of the garden – this helps avoid the risk of accidentally spreading any undetected blight. If you're using borrowed tools that have been used in another garden entirely, this step is imperative. And, once you've trimmed your box, remember to clean up the clippings thoroughly (laying a tarpaulin down first will make this easier).

As an extra safety measure, you may wish to apply a preventative fungicide before and after pruning, especially if you have had to deal with box blight in your garden before. You will usually need to apply it a good few days before you get trimming, and then wait a few days before applying again – check the product's instructions.

Shop these tools for keeping your box plants in good condition

2. Provide plenty of ventilation where possible

Box blight thrives in shady, humid conditions and spreads quickly. So, ensure there is good airflow around your plants – this will help them to dry out quickly after rain. If your box makes up part of your cottage garden ideas, this means keeping an eye on nearby perennials, to make sure they don't start crowding your shrubs.

When it comes to watering plants, a drip irrigation system is best rather than using an 'overhead' approach as this will prevent the leaves from getting wet.

The RHS recommends adding a soft mulch beneath your box as well. This will prevent rain from splashing up onto the leaves and potentially spreading box blight spores. Refresh the mulch occasionally, to keep it disease-free.

3. Quarantine new plants

Box blight can enter your garden via new plants. Because of this, the RHS advises isolating any commercially sourced plants for at least four weeks before planting them, so you can be sure they are disease-free.

As they explain, some nurseries may use fungicides that suppress, but do not kill, the fungus. Quarantining the plants will give you enough time for you to check whether box blight becomes apparent.

Don't forget, you can also take cuttings from box and grow new plants. If you take them from healthy, blight-free plants that are already in your garden, there will be much less risk than bringing in a new plant from elsewhere.

Box blight treatment in 3 simple steps

Already spotted blight? You need these tips on box blight treatment.

1. Cut out infected areas

Box blight needs removing as soon as it's spotted, regardless of the time of year, as long as conditions are dry.

You have a few options. If it's just an isolated area that's affected, you can simply cut this bit out, cleaning your tools well before and after. In more severe cases, you can cut back the shrubs by half, advises Graham Rice. In the worst cases, you can cut the plants right back to ground level, he says. "Box blight does not infect the roots and new shoots will appear."

Alternatively, if you don't want the hassle of trying to save your box, or your attempts at cutting out infected areas seem to be in vain, you can simply dig it up for disposal. Just remember that a new box shouldn't be planted in the same place for a good while, as according to the RHS, spores can remain viable in the surroundings for at least six years.

Whichever approach you go for, Graham adds that tools and footwear should be cleaned afterward, to prevent spreading spores around your garden.

2. Apply a fungicide

As well as cutting back your infected box plants, it's a good idea to apply a fungicide. This can be done both before and after.

Spraying cut-back plants with a product such as Provanto Fungus Fighter Plus from Amazon, which should help stop the spread of the disease.

Fertilising plants can really help them bounce back, and box is no exception. Use a sulfate of potash monthly from mid-spring until early autumn which you sprinkle over the root area and water in.

3. Keep an eye out for further infections

As this fungal disease can spread so quickly, it's important to keep an eye on your plants even after box blight treatment. Unfortunately, it often reoccurs in places it was before, so keep vigilant and be prepared to re-treat where necessary.

What are some good alternatives to box?

If you're looking for an alternative to box for your garden, you might be interested in the trial that RHS Garden Wisley carried out.

It resulted in some top recommendations, including the common yew 'Repandens', Pittosporum 'Collaig Silver', Lonicera nitida 'Maigrun' (which has the benefit of leaves that look very similar to those of box), and Berberis darwinii 'Compacta'.

Other shrubs that make good swaps include Euonymus fortunei, Ilex crenata, and Pittosporum 'Golf Ball'. Graham Rice advises that, "most succeed better as medium to tall hedges than clipped regularly to keep them dwarf."

Alternatively, if quick coverage is your goal, check out the best plants for fast-growing hedges.

Shop alternatives to box

Of course, planting a hedge isn't the only way to create a garden boundary. Take a look at how to decide if a hedge or fence is right for you, and if you do end up choosing a hedge, make sure you understand how high you can grow your hedge when you have neighbours.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

There's something undeniably appealing about showering outside. The open sky, the garden air, the feeling that you've somehow turned your back garden into a boutique retreat. And it's an indulgence that's become increasingly easy to achieve, and increasingly hard to resist.

From barely-there wall-mounted designs to dramatic freestanding stone columns, outdoor showers have come a long way from the basic poolside rinse.

Whether you're installing an outdoor shower from scratch or looking for inspiration to elevate your existing design, these are the ideas worth bookmarking.

1. Use earthy, handmade tiles to root your shower in the garden

Forget anything too glossy or pristine. The outdoor tile ideas that work best are the ones that look like they've been beautifully weathering away for years, somewhere between the colour of a biscuit and a piece of driftwood, with just enough wobble in the glaze to prove an artisan made them.

"There is a big appetite for natural, earthy tones that sit happily with timber, planting and stone," explains Lesley Taylor, Founder of Baked Tiles. "People want the shower to feel part of the garden, not like a bathroom wall that has wandered outside by mistake."

Texture matters just as much as colour here. "Limestone, sandstone, travertine-style finishes, earthy tones and tiles with a slightly imperfect edge all work beautifully because they do not feel too polished or precious outside," says Grazzie Wilson, Head of Creative at Ca' Pietra.

It's a look built for longevity too: "The aim is to create something that feels inviting in high summer, but still has enough substance to sit beautifully in the garden once the towels and sunshine have been packed away," adds Grazzie.

2. Go ultra-modern with a sleek freestanding shower

Against a backdrop this moody, a fussy shower would only get in the way. Instead, a slim stainless-steel shower column looks less like plumbing and more like a modern garden sculpture.

The contrast is what makes this work so well. Rugged stone or dark brick behind it makes the polished metal practically glow, while the integrated shower tray means no separate paving slab or drainage is required because it's all baked into the design from the start.

3. Install a shower in a private outdoor nook

Sometimes the best spot for an outdoor shower isn't one you build, it's one you already have. An old outbuilding recess or the gap between two walls can make a naturally sheltered little shower room, and tiling it floor to ceiling in a rich, glossy colour turns a leftover bit of garden into a secret spa. Here, deep emerald zellige tiles against pale Cotswold stone do exactly that, with brass pipework running down the wall.

A few low-effort additions finish the look, such as a reclaimed timber hook for towels, a wobbly little stool for soap and shampoo, and roses left to scramble up the stonework outside. The result feels properly tucked away, both visually and literally, the kind of corner you'd happily disappear into for 20 minutes with nobody any the wiser.

4. Go wall-to-wall with tiles for a spa-like enclosure

There's a particular kind of magic in stepping into a fully tiled, open-roofed space and finding nothing but sky above you. Three walls and a roofless ceiling is all it takes to turn this outdoor shower into a private boutique moment, and warm, square zellige-style tiles are the perfect material for the job.

"For a spa-like feel, I would lean into softly tonal porcelain, warm neutrals, gentle stone effects or tiles with a subtle surface variation that catch the light without shouting for attention," says Grazzie Wilson. "It should feel calm, cocooning and a little bit indulgent – almost like a tucked-away retreat at the bottom of the garden."

If you want to recreate that spa-like bathroom feeling outdoors, this is how. It takes more planning than a simple wall-mounted shower, but the payoff is somewhere that feels yours, whatever the season.

5. Consider excess runoff when designing your shower

It's easy to obsess over the shower itself and forget about the ground beneath it, but that little patch of floor is doing a lot of work. Here, a simple timber duckboard set into the paving lets water drain straight through underfoot, keeping the surrounding concrete and gravel dry rather than turning into a permanent puddle.

But what happens underneath matters too. "In some cases, simple drainage into gravel, soakaways, or permeable ground may be acceptable for occasional use, particularly with cold water only," explains Tony Wells, plumbing expert at Bathroom Spare Parts. But if soap and shampoo are part of the routine, his advice is to think bigger: "It's advisable to connect drainage into the foul water system rather than allowing wastewater to flow directly into the garden."

It's a detail that costs little to plan for at the outset and saves a lot of regret later. As Tony puts it, treating an outdoor shower "like a proper plumbing project rather than just a garden accessory" is what makes the difference between a feature that lasts and one that causes problems for years.

6. Give some thought to your floor tiles

Here's a fact nobody tells you when you're installing an outdoor shower: the floor matters much more than the walls. Everyone obsesses over the tile at eye level, but it's the one underfoot, slick with water and bare feet, that decides whether your swimming pool shower is a triumph or a hazard.

"When it comes to tiles for an outdoor shower, the first thing to think about is what is happening underfoot, because bare feet, water and the great British weather need a tile that can cope with the lot," says Grazzie Wilson from Ca' Pietra. "Look for something with proper grip, ideally an outdoor tile with an R11 slip rating, and make sure the material is suitable for exterior use, such as frost-resistant porcelain or a suitably finished natural stone."

Thankfully, grippy doesn't have to mean grim. Textured, stone-effect porcelain and honed natural stone both look the part, and many ranges now pair a slip-rated floor tile with a smoother wall version in the same colourway.

7. Embrace natural stone finishes for added 'wow' factor

If you want your shower to look like it belongs in a boutique hotel rather than a garden centre, the secret is usually in the slab.

A great slice of marble-effect stone, all swirling greys and golds, does more for an outdoor shower than any amount of fancy hardware ever could. Pair it with matt black fittings and the whole thing reads as expensive, even if the rest of the garden is still a work in progress.

8. Make a shower statement with deep, saturated coloured tiles

Some outdoor showers try to disappear into the garden. This one does the opposite, and it works brilliantly. A single wall in a deep, confident colour – think ink blue, bottle green or sun-baked terracotta – holds its own against even the wildest planting, especially when ferns and foliage are left to spill in around the edges.

"Homeowners are definitely getting braver with outdoor showers," says Lesley Taylor from Baked Tiles. "We are seeing a move away from the purely practical rinse-off zone and towards spaces that feel like a proper design moment, whether that is a tiled backdrop in a rich green, a sun-baked terracotta shade, or a handmade-look tile that feels relaxed rather than perfect."

9. Lean into a bold decorative pattern

When choosing tiles for your shower, be sure to give some thought to how they're laid. A basket-weave or geometric tile pattern, mixing two or three tones such as deep navy, olive and ochre, is a brilliant way to turn a simple tiled wall into something closer to artwork.

The trick is scale. A pattern like this could easily overwhelm an entire facade, but confined to one narrow shower wall it feels like a deliberate flourish rather than a lot to look at. It's a brilliant way to make a small shower feel like the most thought-through corner of the garden.

One tip before you commit: get your tiler to lay out a sample panel first. Pattern repeats shift depending on tile size and grout width, and the difference between "intentional" and "slightly wonky" often comes down to a few millimetres.

10. Build a sheltered timber retreat for beachy vibes

There's something about a timber-framed shower with a roof overhead that instantly conjures a beach hut or holiday villa, even in a British garden. Weathered or reclaimed timber slats provide an instantly relaxed, sun-bleached look, and provide shelter and privacy from both rain and prying eyes.

Try pairing pale, aged wood with copper or brass fittings for a coastal feel that doesn't tip into pastiche, and add a timber shelf for soap and towels to make it feel like a proper little outdoor room.

Want to take your outdoor set-up a step further? Consider teaming your outdoor shower with a garden sauna too for one of this year's hottest garden trends.

11. Treat your shower as a freestanding garden feature

Not every outdoor shower needs to be fixed to a garden wall. A freestanding column, especially one in a striking stone or marble-effect material, can work as a sculptural feature in its own right, standing in a lawn or border much like a piece of garden art.

Choose a material with enough presence to hold its own among planting; a bold, veined stone in a warm terracotta or rust tone reads as deliberate, especially set against greenery, where the stone itself becomes the focal point.

Freestanding showers also offer more flexibility than wall-mounted ones, since they're not tied to an existing structure for plumbing and can go wherever makes sense.

12. Mix-up your outdoor shower materials to add rustic charm

In this gorgeous shower setup by Marlborough Tiles nothing matches perfectly, and that's precisely the point. This look thrives on age and texture.

A reclaimed scaffold board or weathered fence post as the central spine, glazed brick tiles in a deep green running up one side, and trailing planting allowed to creep in at will, all conspire to make the shower look like it's been part of the garden for decades, even if the tiles went in last weekend!

13. Add a shower to a designated hot tub zone

If you've already carved out a designated spot for a hot tub, you've basically done the hard work for an outdoor shower too. Tucking a shower into the same corner means rinsing off before (or after) a soak without trekking back to the house, and it instantly makes the whole area feel like a proper wellness zone rather than just "the bit of the garden with the hot tub in it".

Tiling the shower walls in the same finish as the hot tub surround – here, a rich glossy green – ties the two zones together visually, while a built-in bench with cushions adds somewhere to sit and dry off.

It's also worth considering hot tub privacy from the outset. A corner position, backed by a wall and softened with planting, is a natural screening idea that hides both the tub and shower from view.

If these ideas have got you thinking about inside too, our guides to choosing a shower and the best bathroom ideas are a good place to start.

With summer in full bloom, many homeowners are looking for ways to improve their gardens – whether that’s adding extra privacy with a new fence or installing a summer house for outdoor entertaining.

However, despite these projects being small, some of them will require planning permission, and failure to do so could result in legal action being taken against you with unlimited fines.

To help you avoid unwanted (and unexpected) charges, we’ve explained the most common outdoor changes that need planning permission, according to legal and gardening experts.

1. Cutting or pruning a protected tree

You might think that any tree in your own garden is fair game to trim or cut down, but according to Joe Pepper, Partner at Bridge McFarland, that is certainly not the case.

You may need consent from the local planning authority if the tree is protected by a Tree Preservation Order (TPO) or stands in a conservation area – otherwise, it could be a criminal offence under the Town and Country Planning Act 1990. This could result in an unlimited fine and the requirement for replacement planting.

"There is another point homeowners often miss: some trees were planted to satisfy a planning condition attached to the property. Removing one of those trees can trigger planning enforcement and if the council serves a notice that is then ignored, prosecution and fines may follow," Joe adds.

"That risk does not always disappear when a property changes hands. If you buy a home where protected trees have already been removed, you may still inherit obligations to replant or deal with an existing breach."

2. Installing decking too high

Want to install raised decking more than 30cm above ground level? You may need to get planning permission, warns Joe Pepper. The same will also apply where outbuildings and structures together cover more than 50% of the garden around the house.

"If the work goes ahead without it, the local authority can treat it as a breach of planning control and require the deck to be altered or removed," he says. "There may not be an immediate fine simply because the decking has been built but ignoring an enforcement notice can lead to prosecution and an unlimited fine."

"There are also strict safety standards covering features such as railings and balustrades. Openings between railings must be small enough to stop a 100mm sphere passing through, and any balustrade bordering a drop of at least 600mm must stand a minimum of 900mm high," adds Helen Godsiff, Brand Manager at Eurocell.

3. Burning garden waste irresponsibly

Burning garden waste can lead to legal action if it becomes a nuisance to neighbours or creates a health risk. With that in mind, Joe Pepper says to avoid putting damp waste, treated timber or plastic on the bonfire.

"Councils have powers under the Environmental Protection Act 1990 to investigate and serve abatement notices and breaching one is a criminal offence," he explains. "If smoke is persistent or particularly serious, a homeowner can face a fine and further penalties if the problem continues."

4. Building a garden room without permission

Garden rooms are a fantastic outdoor feature, but if they exceed the allowed height, footprint, location and proximity to boundaries, or have the wrong intended use, planning permission may be required before it is installed.

"If the structure goes beyond what is allowed for permitted development and no planning permission has been obtained, the council may require a retrospective application and if permission is not granted, the building may have to be altered or removed," explains Joe Pepper.

If the enforcement notice is ignored, Joe says you could be prosecuted and given an unlimited fine, so it's worth looking into.

Another thing to keep in mind is whether your garden room is built over a public sewer (or too close to one). If that's the case, "consent from the relevant water company may be needed; often by way of a build-over agreement." The same applies to raised decking.

5. Installing a fence too high

When it comes to designing a garden, privacy is often a top priority for homeowners, which is why some people want their fences as tall as possible. However, any fence, wall, or gate above two metres (or one metre if it's next to a highway used by vehicles) may need planning permission.

While Joe Pepper says you'll likely face planning enforcement rather than an immediate penalty, you'll still need to reduce the height or remove it which can be expensive. If you don't comply with these fence rules, you could face an unlimited fine or even prosecution.

Joe Pepper concludes, "A quick check with the local planning authority before work starts is usually far cheaper than dealing with enforcement after the event."

Found this helpful? You may also want to read our guide on when you need planning permission for decking and garden wall building regulations.

In these times of extreme weather and extended drought, drip irrigation systems enable us to manage how we water our choice of garden plants.

Increased water restrictions are not going away and, in years to come, the liberal use of garden hosepipes and sprinklers will be frowned upon as an extravagance. So, the conscious and effective watering offered by drip irrigation systems is sure to become more widely used.

But what exactly is drip irrigation and how can you make use of it when watering plants in your garden landscaping to save water, and keep your garden alive in periods of drought? We explain all.

What are drip irrigation systems?

Drip irrigation is a watering method that has been used in commercial agriculture and horticulture for years. It gets water directly to young plants in an economic and targeted fashion, at the best time to water plants, with as little waste as possible.

Edward Cantle, an expert from Gardena explains: "Drip irrigation systems offer a great alternative to conventional watering methods, such as a garden hose.

"They work by gradually drip-feeding water directly next to the plant, which allows the water to penetrate the soil right down to the roots, saving up to 70% water consumption, compared to standard irrigation systems." He adds that this also promotes plant health, by leaving them less susceptible to disease.

How do drip irrigation systems work?

By laying a system of pipes and small drippers through planting areas in your garden, the water can be fed directly to the roots of the plants.

They take advantage of the natural capillary action in the soil and allow moisture to be absorbed by the roots as needed, with less evaporation from the surface.

Shop drip irrigation systems

Are drip irrigation systems simple to install?

Sean Lade from specialist supplier Easy Garden Irrigation describes how most systems are installed: "First, there’s a connection to a garden tap and from there you run a half-inch supply pipe that basically acts like a motorway to carry water around the garden, past all the plants you want to water. Then you spur off into micro-size pipes, ¼ inch thick, that reach to the plants themselves and then a drip emitter regulates the release of the water."

It’s usually recommended that you use one distributor per plant, which works well for garden planters and smaller areas – although you can share one emitter among a smaller grouping of plants. For larger areas, a drip line is recommended with built-in emitters along the length of the pipe.

What are the advantages of drip irrigation?

Because the water is delivered exactly where it needs to go, you use less and waste less – perfect if you're looking for water saving methods. As the experts at Water Irrigation point out, "water is delivered with pinpoint accuracy directly to the root zone of the plant. This minimises wastage and weed growth in the surrounding areas of the plant."

For example, a system with 50 drippers used twice a day for 30 minutes will save up to 70% of water compared to a sprinkler or soaker hose. And for this reason, in many areas, drip irrigation systems are permitted even in times of official drought and hosepipe bans – although you should always double-check with your local provider.

"As water application is slow and controlled by each emitter, the water has time to soak into the soil preventing surface runoff," Water Irrigation adds.

It is important to use a timer with your system. This means you can water first thing in the morning, so you'll get the most out of your watering at the coolest time of day without getting out of bed. Plus, you don’t have to remember to turn off the system. And drip irrigation systems are ideal for watering everything from patio plants to your favourite screening plants while you are away on holiday too.

What are the disadvantages of drip irrigation systems?

The key disadvantage is the time it takes to lay out the system. And, some people might not like seeing the tubes, pipes, and kit on view. But there are ways to disguise the pipes.

They are great for gardens of all sizes, but for larger plots, you might well need some professional help to make sure your watering circuit is working to maximum effectiveness.

Are drip irrigation kits easy to use?

Drip irrigation is becoming increasingly popular with home gardeners because it’s an effective way of watering the garden. The new kits on the market are much easier to install and work for containers and pots as well as larger flower beds.

We’ve come a long way from the days of ‘leaky hose’ watering pipes that effectively sweat out water unevenly across a planting area.

And if you only have a compact courtyard garden or balcony, a smaller system, such as the Gardena Balcony Irrigation Set from Amazon would be more than enough to keep your potted plants well watered.

Other great water-saving methods include rain chains and water butts. These are great ways to harvest rainwater if you prefer watering your plants with rainwater.

FAQs

Should you bury drip irrigation systems?

You definitely should not put your pipes and drip emitters under the soil – if you bury the system, you run the risk of damaging the pipes if you can’t see them.

"You can easily put a spade through the pipe," says Sean Lade from Easy Garden Irrigation. "But you can hide them with a layer of mulch or bark chippings, which will make it more efficient and help to retain moisture in the soil."

Can you make a drip irrigation system yourself?

There are many different kits available with parts that you can scale up or down according to the size of your garden, and most good suppliers offer great advice and customer service. Price-wise, drip irrigation kits at Amazon start at around £25 at the lower end of the price scale.

As with the garden sprinklers, most drip irrigation kits can be added to and expanded as required, and with good maintenance and regular checks, they have a lifespan of between 10-15 years.

Watering our plants and gardens is essential to ensure good, healthy growth, but it’s also vital to manage our watering to minimise the amount we use.

If you’re not sure about investing in a kit for your whole garden design, you could try one of the smaller-scale setups to keep your pots watered while you’re on holiday. That way, you won’t have to rely on friends and neighbours to keep your plants healthy.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

By planting a lavender hedge you can create a defined area within a garden, add a soft border to paths and walkways and attract plenty of beneficial bees and pollinators. Low growing, this is a hedge which will not get out of hand or cause neighbourly disputes. It is easy to care for and with just a little attention, it will last for years.

Lavender is a stalwart of the classic cottage garden, but it fits all styles, from Mediterranean gravel spaces to chic urban courtyards. It has a long flowering period, from around June to September, and the fragrant foliage keeps its colour year-round, even when the plant is dormant over winter.

All you need if you want to plant a lavender hedge in your garden is a sunny spot and our simple lavender growing tips for success.

How to plant a lavender hedge

1. Fork over the soil in the area of your garden landscaping where you want to create the hedge. Space the plants about 30cm apart (or 45cm for larger species, check the plant label for height and spread). If the soil is heavy, incorporate plenty of horticultural grit before planting.
2. Dig a hole which is just a bit larger than the plant’s root ball.
3. Take the plant out of its pot and place in the soil. Fill the gap, and then firm around the base.
4. Water in thoroughly, aiming for the roots, not the foliage. After planting, keep watered regularly in dry weather for the first growing season. After that, it should look after itself. Usually, lavender does not need feeding. You could do it just occasionally using an all-purpose feed to improve the overall health of the plants, but it is not essential.

Lavender hedge planting essentials

When is the best time to plant a lavender hedge?

Although the autumn and winter months are a good time to start planning your lavender hedges and thinking about what sort of plants you want to include in your design, you need to wait until the soil has warmed up before you can plant them.

In the UK, this can be any time from mid-April until the end of July. If it is a cold spring, it's best to wait to plant until May. Lavender roots will grow much more quickly in warm soil.

What's the best lavender for a lavender hedge?

English lavender is the most robust and long-lived. This hardy perennial has tiny flowers on grey/green stems.

French lavender, which has tufty top petals that look like a butterfly’s wings, is less hardy, so unless your chosen spot for a hedge is extremely sheltered, it is best to go for an English variety.

There are more than 250 English lavenders, and these include dwarf plants, which won’t grow taller than 30cm. Lavender 'Dwarf Blue' (available from Thompson & Morgan) and ‘Miss Muffet’ are two examples.

Larger, bushier choices for bigger gardens include Lavendula Intermedia ‘Grosso’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) which tops 1m in height and spread.

Lavenders don’t just come in blue either. You can go for white, misty purple or even pink too!

Lavender varieties to plant in your hedge

Where should I plant a lavender hedge?

Good drainage is the key to success with lavender. As a Mediterranean garden plant, it will not thrive in damp or heavy, soggy soil, so a well-drained site is a must.

Choose a sunny spot and your lavender hedge should thrive in the right conditions. It's a great choice for low-maintenance gardens as once established your lavender hedge should require very little watering or care.

If you don't have the right type of soil or conditions in your garden, another option is to plant lavender in a series of garden planters to mimic the effect of a hedge. This will allow you to have more control of the soil in which your lavender is planted.

When should I prune a lavender hedge? 

English lavender should be pruned twice a year to keep the hedge bushy and compact. This will stop leggy brown stems appearing. When the flowers have faded in late summer or early autumn, trim them off with a pair of secateurs. These Spear & Jackson bypass secateurs are highly rated on Amazon.

Then cut about 2.5cm from the plant’s leaves, making sure that some green stays on. This lets light into the plant and enables new shoots to form before the lavender becomes dormant over winter.

In late February or in early March if it has been a cold month, trim the lavender plants lightly again using a pair of sharp garden shears.

Whether you want to plant a lavender hedge as a garden screening idea or simply want a natural way to zone different areas of your plot, this pretty scented plant is a classic choice.

Growing trees in pots is another good option if you're looking to break up a space and create additional privacy.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

With the rise in popularity of cold plunges, home saunas and hot tubs, it's clear that garden wellness is having quite the moment. Outdoor showers are the latest addition to the wishlist, with Google searches hitting an all-time high in 2026, and an increasing number of ambitious homeowners factoring them into their garden design plans from the outset.

The appeal is simple: outdoor showers look beautiful, come into their own during summer, and bring a touch of boutique-hotel glamour to even the drizzliest of British gardens.

But there's more involved than simply crewing a showerhead to a fence post and hoping for the best. From plumbing and drainage, to planning rules and winterising, here's everything you need to know before installing an outdoor shower.

When is it best to install one?

The idea that an outdoor shower only works somewhere hot is something of a myth, meaning you don't need to wait for a few years of good summers before you install one. John Pearce, co-director at Oltco, sees the demand for these garden features growing steadily.

"Outdoor showers are becoming increasingly popular in UK homes as more homeowners look to create spa-inspired outdoor spaces that combine practicality with design," he says. "Whether positioned alongside hot tubs, swimming pools or simply as part of a luxury garden scheme, outdoor showers can work incredibly well in the British climate when the right materials and drainage solutions are considered from the outset."

The key phrase here is from the outset. An outdoor shower that's been properly planned, with thought given to shelter, drainage, pipework, and surface materials, will perform very differently to one that's been bolted on as an afterthought.

Get those fundamentals right, and the great British weather becomes a manageable inconvenience rather than a deal-breaker.

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How to get the plumbing and water supply right

Before anything else, when installing an outdoor shower, you need to decide how you're going to use your outdoor shower, because that decision will shape everything that follows.

Lee Saunders, Head of Design at Drench, puts it simply. "For a lot of people, a simple cold-water rinse is all they need. These basic setups can often connect directly to an existing outdoor tap using a standard garden hose, making them an incredibly easy and affordable option for cooling down during the summer months."

But, for a more permanent installation with reliable hot water, the picture changes. "The plumbing becomes much more involved," Lee explains, "often requiring insulated hot and cold water pipework to be extended externally from the house."

Andy Ellis, Managing Director of Vidalux, agrees that a hot and cold balance is achievable for most UK homeowners, but the execution needs thought. "For a shower that's going to be satisfying you need a stable water pressure between 1.5 bar and 3.0 bar, but if you're going to be connecting to an outdoor tap, pressure will drop significantly the further down the garden you go."

There's also a less obvious safety risk to be aware of. "A common and dangerous mistake people often make is leaving exposed plastic water supply pipes across the garden," Andy warns. "On hot summer days the sun bakes the stagnant water inside these pipes and raises the temperature to dangerous levels. This creates the perfect breeding ground for bacteria, but can also cause scalding when the shower is turned on. Supply lines must be shielded or buried to avoid this."

On the pipework itself, Andy recommends MDPE (Medium Density Polyethylene) blue piping for underground runs. "It's tough, handles high pressure, and can handle soil shifting. You can run MDPE pipes up to 50 metres or more across a garden without major pressure loss, provided your starting mains pressure is healthy and you use a consistent pipe diameter, such as 20mm or 25mm," he says.

On the question of DIY versus professional installation, Andy is direct about where the line sits.

"Competent DIYers should be able to comfortably handle digging trenches, laying the MDPE pipe, and assembling compression joints, but tapping into the property's main internal water system, installing mandatory non-return check valves to prevent garden water backflowing into the drinking supply, or adding any electrical pumps requires a qualified professional," he says.

What about drainage?

If plumbing is the decision most homeowners think about first, drainage is the one thing they most often wish they'd thought about sooner. "In my experience, drainage is one of the most overlooked aspects of installing an outdoor shower," says Lee Saunders.

"You cannot usually rely on water simply draining freely onto your lawn or patio, especially with regular use. Repeated water exposure will eventually lead to issues with surface water, such as waterlogging and slippery surfaces, as well as potential damage to your surrounding landscaping."

The right solution depends on how the shower will be used – and, crucially, what you'll be using it for. UK building regulations state that water can only drain into the ground if it's completely pure, so if you plan to use soaps or shampoos, that water is legally classified as greywater, and cannot be allowed to run into natural watercourses.

Andy Ellis is clear on what that means in practice: it needs to be connected directly to the household foul water sewer system. For those using the shower purely for a quick rinse after a swim or sauna, a gravel soakaway is perfectly fine, but Andy advises siting it at least five metres from the main building,or any outbuildings to prevent localised flooding or structural subsidence over time.

The surface around the shower is also worth considering. John Pearce makes the case for permeable resin-bound surfacing, which allows water to drain naturally through the surface rather than pooling underneath. "This helps minimise standing water, reduces slip risks and keeps the area cleaner and more functional throughout the year," he explains.

What materials work best for an outdoor shower?

The UK climate is hard on outdoor fixtures, and outdoor showers are no exception. Rain, frost, UV exposure and fluctuating temperatures mean that material choices matter more here than almost anywhere else in the home. Lee Saunders is clear on what holds up best. "Marine-grade metals, treated timber and weather-resistant fittings are usually the best choice, as cheaper materials can corrode or deteriorate quickly in British weather conditions," he advises.

Outdoor tiles are one of the most popular choices for finishing a garden shower, but before you get carried away with mood-boards, Grazzie Wilson, head of creative at Ca' Pietra, says it's important to get the spec right.

"Look for something with proper grip, ideally an outdoor tile with an R11 slip rating underfoot, and make sure the material is suitable for exterior use, such as frost-resistant porcelain or a suitably finished natural stone." On style, Grazzie says tiles with tonal variation or a slightly imperfect finish tend to sit more naturally outside, echoing the textures already in the garden. Anything too polished or uniform can feel out of place.

Lesley Taylor, founder of Baked Tiles, flags the less visible details. "You need products that can cope with regular water exposure and will not panic the first time the temperature drops. A flexible, frost-resistant adhesive is also key," she adds, "because outdoor surfaces expand and contract far more than indoor ones."

How to winterise and maintain an outdoor shower

An outdoor shower left unprepared for winter can quickly become an expensive headache, and frozen pipes are one of the most common and costly culprits. Andy Ellis says the mistake most people make is thinking a simple shut-off is enough.

"Most homeowners think that shutting off the indoor isolation valve and leaving the outdoor shower head open is enough to clear the line but it's not," he warns. "Horizontal pipe runs naturally retain water, and when the water freezes it expands with immense force and can cause damage."

Thankfully, protecting your setup doesn't have to be complicated. Andy recommends installing a dedicated low-point drain valve inside the property, positioned at the lowest point of the pipe run before it exits the building.

Come autumn, the process is straightforward: shut the isolation valve, open the outdoor shower taps to release pressure, then open the internal drain valve. "This breaks the vacuum, allowing gravity to completely empty every drop of water out of the system," Andy explains.

For setups that can't be fully drained, wrapping pipework in mineral wool lagging and housing it inside a weatherproof conduit duct will offer solid protection, though Andy is clear that a gravity drain is always the safest option.

A little end-of-season care goes a long way too. Beyond winterising, regular cleaning and inspection will keep your shower looking good and working well for years to come. As Lesley Taylor puts it: "Get the details right and the tiles can do their thing without you worrying about cracks, staining or anything lifting after a wet winter."

FAQs

How much does an outdoor shower cost?

At the most straightforward end, a basic cold-water setup connecting to an existing outdoor tap can be achieved for a few hundred pounds, including the unit and minor plumbing work. Outdoor shower installation costs typically range from around £500 for a basic setup to £2,500 or more for something more elaborate.

Plumbing work can add £200 to £500, and electrical components such as lighting or a pump a further £150 to £400. Tiling, screening, and premium fixtures will add further still. As a rule of thumb, get at least two or three quotes from qualified plumbers before committing.

Where should you position an outdoor shower?

Positioning deserves as much thought as any other part of the installation. Lee Saunders recommends sheltered spots near walls, pergolas, courtyards or tall planting, which help with both privacy and wind protection. Proximity to the house is also worth considering, because the closer the shower is to an existing water supply, the simpler and less costly the plumbing will be.

There's also a seasonal consideration that catches many homeowners out. "Gardens that feel secluded in summer can become much more exposed once plants lose their leaves in autumn and winter," Lee warns. It's worth walking the space at different times of year before committing to a position, and thinking about permanent garden screening ideas such as timber panels, rendered walls or a built enclosure if year-round privacy is a priority.

Do you need planning permission for an outdoor shower?

For most homeowners, no. A simple wall-mounted or freestanding outdoor shower is unlikely to require planning permission. Where things get more complicated is if you're building a permanent enclosure around the shower, which may be treated as an outbuilding and subject to permitted development rules. When in doubt, always check with your local planning authority before starting any work, especially if your property is a listed building or sits within a conservation area.

An outdoor shower is just the beginning. If you're building a garden wellness space, our guide to garden saunas is worth a read, and find out what other garden trends are gracing our outdoors this year.

If you want to add summer colour and fragrance to a patio or deck, then our tips on how to plant roses in pots may come in handy.

These beautiful blooms are a well-loved favourite, and you don't have to have acres of space to grow them. With the right varieties and a few pretty containers, you can fill even the smallest of gardens with their romantic, whimsical charm and delicious scent.

Roses care is more straightforward than you might think, too, once you've got the know-how. But when growing them in garden planters, there are a few tips to take on board for the very best results – our guide explains all.

How to plant roses in pots in 6 simple steps

John Negus, a renowned British horticulturist, author and journalist, shares his step-by-step tips on how to plant roses in pots.

1. Choose a planter of a decent size that can comfortably accommodate all the roots of your rose plant. Place it in its final position (for example as part of your patio planting ideas) as it may be too heavy to move once planted up. Ideally go for somewhere that gets sun for at least half the day. Cover the drainage hole with 8cm of crocks or stones and sit the rose, in its pot, in the centre.
2. Mix a nutrient-rich potting compost with mycorrhizal fungi – for instance, John Innes potting compost No3 (available on Amazon) and Rootgrow (also available on Amazon). You can also add 10–20% multi-purpose or well-rotted manure for added richness. Work it into the gap between both pots and firm it gently. Carefully remove the potted rose and tap it from its container. Place the root ball into the hole you 
have made in the larger pot and add a little more compost.
3. Plant it at the same depth at which it was previously growing. Make sure that the compost surface is about 5cm below the rim of the pot, for watering.
4. Stand the pot on 'feet' to ensure that surplus moisture freely drains away. After planting, water copiously so that roots are in close contact with the compost.
5. Pruning roses should normally be done in late winter to early spring. Shorten the main stems by half and side shoots to two buds. Remove crowded stems from the middle of the bush.
6. Containers dry out quicker than flower beds so need more frequent watering. Water your potted roses freely in dry spells and fertilise plants with a high-potash liquid feed weekly from late spring to early autumn.
   
   You might want to include automatic watering as part of your garden irrigation plans too.

When is the best time to plant a rose in a pot?

If you've bought your rose in a pot, it can generally be planted at any time of the year. Avoid doing so during periods of drought or frost, however.

If you're planting bare root roses, this is best done from late autumn to mid-spring. Similar timings work well if you are planting bare root trees in pots too.

What are the best types of roses for containers?

Not all types of roses thrive in containers, as they need a deep root run. 


"You could try hybrid tea varieties, but I suspect they will not do terribly well," says John. "The best roses for containers are the patio and miniature types, which can be grown in small but deep pots (23-35cm) deep. You could also try less vigorous and climbing roses, but use larger containers with a minimum depth of 30-46cm.

"The RHS recommends the following as its top five roses for containers: 'Nice Day' (patio climber), 'Sweet Dream' (patio and also suitable as a standard), 'Magic Carpet' (groundcover), 'Laura Ford' (patio climber) and 'Robin Redbreast' (miniature or ground cover)," John continues.

I would also recommend looking in a catalogue to choose the varieties you like. David Austin recommends English roses for container growing and there are many varieties on the website. Look for a climbing variety if you want to train it up a pergola or fence as a screening plant.

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FAQs

How do you care for potted roses after summer?

Roses are dormant in winter and generally unaffected by frosts, but if yours are still flowering, they will appreciate a little protection.

John suggests wrapping two
layers of bubble plastic around the pots and covering the compost with a 10cm layer of composted bark to encourage strong growth the following year. In spring, remove the top 10–12cm of compost and replace it with a nutrient-rich compost.

Whether your roses are still flowering or not when temperatures drop, it's a good idea to site the pots somewhere sunny and sheltered – along a garden wall, for instance. Ensure each is on pot 'feet' so that excess moisture drains away.

If you can only find an exposed site in your garden landscaping for your potted roses, and they've finished flowering, you may wish to cut them back by a third of their size in autumn. As the David Austin team explains, this can help prevent 'wind rock', which is where wind loosens roses at their base from the soil.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Growing lavender might seem straightforward but there are tips for how to grow it that will have a big impact on how good your plants look.

The key thing to remember is that lavender comes from the Mediterranean so loves baking in a sunny spot. It’s super easy to grow in most climates though and you can take cuttings from it to multiply your plants. It’s a nice flower to have around when you want to kick back and destress too, as the scent is so calming and relaxing.

For maximum impact, position lavender near doors, windows and paths in your garden landscaping to get the full benefits of the fragrance. And just watch as the bees and butterflies swarm all over it.

Getting started with growing lavender

Lavender is a hassle-free plant that will be equally happy in the ground or in a container. It thrives in flower borders, raised beds and gravel gardens, as well as being a natural fit with herb gardens.

Lavender is a great choice for low-maintenance garden ideas too. The flowers go on for ever so there's not a lot of deadheading to do. You don't have to fertilise it either, as lavender doesn’t like rich soil which means plants don’t need liquid feeds.

How to grow lavender successfully comes down to a few key pointers.

1. Planting lavender is really quick and easy. Find a sunny spot with well-drained soil – it won’t do well in shady, damp or cold conditions. 
2. Thanks to its Mediterranean heritage it prefers dry soil, so if your garden has clay soil or becomes waterlogged it might be better to grow it in pots.
3. Try to get your lavender planted as soon as you can once you’ve got it home.
4. Dig the patch of soil where you want it to go and remove any weeds.
5. Leave plenty of space for your lavender to grow if you’re aiming for lots together to get the sought-after effect of drifts of romantic planting.
6. Water regularly after planting and pay particular attention to your plants during hot weather. Once established, lavender is drought tolerant. This is great news as it doesn't need lots of watering.
7. Lavender grown in garden planters may need a little more attention, particularly in the height of summer as the soil will dry out quickly in hot weather. In winter, keep containers fairly dry and stand them on feet to help drainage.

What type of gardens suit lavender? 

Whatever your garden style there’s room for lavender. Perfect for your cottage garden ideas, this classic mixes beautifully with roses and foxgloves in a haze of romantic planting.

It also looks good in more urban-style spaces, so can be a good choice for modern garden ideas too, working equally well clipped into shape in modern raised garden beds or airy planting style in minimal Mediterranean-inspired gravel gardens.

Don’t miss a trick with containers either. Lavender looks great potted up, either as the main event or weaved in among other flowers.

How to choose the right type of lavender for your garden

Known mostly for their distinctive mauve flowers and aromatic foliage, there are in fact many different types of lavender to choose from. It's one of the top bee friendly plants, so is a perfect way to attract pollinators to your garden, too.

• English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) This is the one most people think of when lavender springs to mind. It's strongly scented, covered in masses of purple-blue flowers and the leaves are silver-grey. It’s hardy and can be left outside during winter as long as it's planted in free-draining soil. It also flowers for months on end. Favourite varieties include ‘Hidcote’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) and ‘Munstead’ (available from Crocus). It’s also possible to buy pink and white varieties of English lavender.
• French lavender (Lavandula stoecha) and other tender varieties These are less hardy than English lavenders and don't live as long. Grow them in containers that you can then lift inside for overwintering. A conservatory or greenhouse is ideal. These ones have flowers that are a different shape to the English varieties, topped by pretty feathery tufts, and their scent is not as strong. Try Lavandula pedunculata (available from Crocus) for an early flowering variety.
• Hybrid 'lavendins' These have been bred from a mix of Lavandula angustifolia and Lavandula latifolia, which makes them more robust and tolerant of wetter soils and colder winters. They grow bigger than English lavenders and have more flowers for a longer period of time, which means more nectar for bees. Popular hybrid lavenders include ‘Edelweiss’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) and ‘Grosso’ (also from Thompson & Morgan).

Shop our favourite lavender varieties

What's the best way to prune lavender?

Everyone’s been in the situation where they've had a lavender plant that becomes dry and woody by late summer, and ends up looking half dead. Snip them into shape after they’ve finished flowering though and you will keep your lavender looking neat in your patio edging or alongside garden paths, as well as rejuvenating it for next year.

Trim any faded flower stalks (although birds like to eat these so you can leave them on if you prefer) but make sure you don’t cut the woody stems as this will limit any new growth.

Foliage can be clipped in spring if your plant has been damaged by frost. If your plants are looking really jaded it might be time to replace them with new ones though. But treat them well and they can last up to ten years.

How to dry lavender

Whatever type of lavender you grow, drying it is incredibly easy and you can use it to scent your linen cupboard or drawers.

1. First snip your flowers. Follow the stem down from the flower bud until you reach a junction where two side leaves or new buds have begun to form.
2. Snip the stem just there and the plant will continue to produce more fresh flowers. For longer stems, simply snip deeper into the plant. 
3. The simplest way to dry fresh lavender is to hang it up in small bunches.
4. Secure each bunch loosely with twine, then hang them upside down in a warm, dry spot where the air can circulate around them. 
5. Alternatively dry your bunches of lavender in vases, making sure there is plenty of room for air to circulate around the stems to prevent them going mouldy.

FAQs

What is the best time of year to plant lavender?

As long as the weather is good, in the UK lavender is best planted out in the garden in April or May. This is because the soil starts to warm up at this time of year so it offers the ideal growing conditions for your plants to get established. You cna plant it at other times of the year, however.

Just remember to never plant out lavender on cold days though – it's a Mediterranean garden plant and will need a little cosseting early in the year in case of any unexpected cold snaps.

Where does lavender grow best?

There is quite a choice when it comes to lavender varieties but the main thing to remember is that all of them love a sunny position, whether they’re hardy, half-hardy or tender species. So give your lavender what it needs by making it feel at home in a sun trap. It's also a great plant for a gravel garden.

Plants in containers are always more susceptible to cold, as their roots are less insulated than when in the ground. Plus if the soil is waterlogged it can freeze. However they do have the added benefit of being moveable. To help lavender survive cooler temperatures, transfer your containers to a sheltered spot over winter.

Does lavender grow back every year?

Give lavender what it likes (a sunny spot, dry soil, a light prune every now and then) and the answer is yes. Some types of French and tender lavenders are not hardy though and won’t survive the winter outside so always make sure you check the label before you buy. Opt for a hardy English variety of lavender if you want to leave yours outside all year round as a pretty screening plant for your patio, for example.

Lavender bushes typically last for between seven and 10 years, sometimes longer. But generally at some point they will need replacing.

Does lavender grow well in pots?

Lavender loves growing in pots and is a great choice for pretty window boxes as part of your front garden ideas. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes and use a loamy compost such as John Innes No 2 with plenty of grit or perlite mixed in to help with drainage. A good ratio is 25% grit/75% compost.

Once planted water well, then continue to water at regular intervals throughout summer, more so if the weather is really hot. Keep an eye on the compost to see if it has dried out, and snip out any faded flowers to encourage more to grow.

Plant lavender in pots with these essentials

Lavender plants are widely available from garden centres and online during spring and summer. Plants are usually sold in 9cm pots ready for planting out in your garden design.

If you want to get an early start lavender is also sold as plug plants in spring. This is a cheaper way to buy it, particularly if you’re planning on planting masses to get those desirable lavender drifts. But you will need an indoor space to nurture these plantlings until any chance of late frost has passed.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

If you've noticed an influx of ants in your garden, you're probably wondering what caused it and how to get rid of them pronto.

While these tiny creatures are virtually harmless (aside from the rare – and very mild – bite), no one wants a colony crawling across their outdoor table while they're trying to enjoy an al fresco dinner.

To get to the bottom of why ants are appearing in your garden and how to prevent them, we spoke with two pest control experts, who have shared their insights and top tips below (along with products that may help).

How do I get rid of ants in the garden?

1. Find out what's attracting them

Before you do anything, you'll need to work out what's attracting the ants in the first place, explains Daniel Steward, Managing Director of Shield Pest Control.

There are three main things that could be luring them in: food, water and shelter, so have a think about what that could look like in your garden. Do you leave your bins out? Do you have any spilled bird food on the floor? Is your outdoor tap leaking?

If you regularly eat your dinner outdoors (or your pets do), make sure you're cleaning the surfaces down afterwards, ensuring that no crumbs are left behind for the ants to snack on.

2. Keep plant areas free from food sources

As we previously mentioned, ants will be drawn to any food sources in your garden – whether that's a rotting apple fallen from a tree, a compost heap or spilled sugary drinks.

A clever tip for keeping ants out of your compost is by adding a little moisture to the food, as ants prefer it dry. You should also bury your kitchen scraps – particularly if they are sugary – and turn the pile regularly to deter nesting activity.

3. Manage moisture levels

Not only are dry environments better for ants to nest in, but they also help pheromone trails and scent marks remain stable. With that in mind, it's a good idea to keep your garden soil evenly moist, recommends Tony King, Owner of The Pied Piper.

While this isn't going to eliminate them completely, it can be a way of moving them from a particular area you don't want them in – say, the patio by your table.

4. Try a natural deterrent

You may want to consider using a natural deterrent in your garden, such as peppermint oil, to disrupt the ants' trails. Daniel Steward suggests applying it around patios, decking and seating areas, which may also put off rats.

Shopping picks to ant-proof your garden

How do you prevent ants in the garden?

Daniel Steward explains that the best way to prevent them in your garden is to make the environment as unattractive as possible when it comes to food, water and shelter supplies.

"Simple measures such as keeping bins tightly sealed, cleaning up food and drink spillages after outdoor gatherings, removing fallen fruit and covering compost bins can make a significant difference," he says.

"Make sure to seal cracks around walls, patios and garden structures where ants may establish nests. Prevention is always easier than dealing with an established colony."

We tend to notice ants more in the summer months when the colonies become active (and we are also outside).

When is Flying Ant Day?

Flying Ant Day isn’t on a specific date; it occurs between late June and mid-August and peaks in late July.

"The term 'Flying Ant Day' has been used colloquially to describe the large number of flying ants that appear during the summer months. Millions of these insects emerge from their respective nest areas to perform a mass mating ritual called a nuptial flight," explains Tony King.

"Both the weather conditions and time of day influence the emergence of the ants. They are most likely to emerge on warm, wet and wind-free days (usually late in July or early August) shortly after a short-term rain event."

While there are a number of ways to eliminate ants in your garden, it ultimately comes down to removing potential nesting spots, food and water sources. From September to February, they are less likely to be around.

For more expert-backed pest advice, read our guide on how to get rid of slugs in the garden and how to get rid of chafer grubs.

Looking for a quick and easy way to cover ugly fences or screen your garden this summer? It could be that bamboo fence roll is the solution you need, particularly as it's also one of the most cost-effective ways you can upgrade your garden for less.

Made from bamboo canes or reeds, it's also a more natural option than other products, meaning it can even boost your eco-credentials.

Suitable for use on fences, walls or even for adding shade to pergolas, here's everything you need to know about using bamboo rolls in your garden design.

Types of bamboo fence roll

When it comes to choosing the best type of bamboo roll for your garden project, not all bamboo roll is made equal, as Tom Douglas, senior gardening buyer at Cherry Lane Garden Centres explains.

“There are a few different types available. Whole bamboo cane rolls tend to have a more decorative, premium look and are generally more robust, while bamboo reed rolls are made from thinner pieces of bamboo and can be a more budget-friendly option," he says, "although they're typically less durable over time."

Choosing the right product means getting the right balance between aesthetics, practicality and how long you need it to last.

Shop for bamboo fence roll

Where and how to use bamboo roll in your garden

So where can you use bamboo fence roll in your garden? It's surprisingly versatile says Tom Douglas, and suitable in a number of different locations, not just on fences.

“Bamboo roll is a simple and effective way to add privacy to a patio or garden without having to invest in new fencing," explains Tom. "It's great for covering unattractive fences or walls, screening off compost, wheelie bins and utility areas, or even creating a more secluded outdoor space.

“It can also help add extra height to existing fences," he adds, "helping to reduce wind exposure and provide a bit of welcome shade during the warmer months.”

If you've also invested in a pergola without a roof, but find that the re-occurring heatwaves are making you question your decision, using bamboo across the top of your frame could be one way of adding the shade you need.

When it comes to installation, it's also a lot easier than digging the ground for new fence posts or more permanent structures.

“Installing bamboo roll is relatively straightforward," confirms Tom. "It can be attached to existing fences, walls or structures using galvanised staples, screws or specialist fence clips to keep it secure.”

Use these for fixing bamboo fence roll

Maintenance and lifespan

Unlike other types of fencing which can require regular painting or sanding and staining, bamboo fence rolls are also easy to look after.

“One of the biggest benefits is that it's very low maintenance," notes Tom Douglas. "Aside from occasionally brushing away dirt and debris, or giving it a gentle wash with water and a soft brush, there's not a great deal you need to do to keep it looking its best.”

But, will it last? Unlike other more solid fence panels such as composite fencing, as it's made of a natural material, you might not get as many years out of the product as you'd hoped. Although having lived in Asia and seen bamboo canes used as scaffolding, I'd certainly suggest that it may be stronger than you think.

“Lifespan really depends on the conditions it's exposed to," notes Tom. "Factors such as strong sunlight, heavy rain and high winds will all affect its lifespan, so a sheltered position will generally help it stay in good condition for longer.”

FAQs

Is planting bamboo a better option than bamboo fence roll?

Although you may prefer the more leafy, natural appearance of bamboo plants, it's recommended you proceed with caution when choosing and planting it in your garden. Choose the wrong type and you could end up with invasive bamboo problems.

Always opt for a non-invasive variety, recommends head of horticulture at B&Q, Mark Sage.

"There are several clumping bamboos available in the UK, but for me, Fargesia rufa really stands out as the most reliable and hardy option for our climate. It’s the one I’d confidently recommend to most gardeners.

"There are other types, such as Bambusa and Chusquea," he adds, "but they tend to be less hardy in UK conditions or simply not as widely available. For most gardens – especially in more built-up areas – Fargesia rufa offers a really practical solution: you still get that lush, evergreen privacy and structure, but without the worry of it taking over."

You can find Fargesia rufa on sale at B&Q.

If sustainable gardening is at the core of your garden ideas, as well as using bamboo roll for a more natural finish, take a look at these ways to re-use brick in your garden, and discover what else to include in your eco-friendly garden design.

Some areas of the garden are best hidden away and that's why the best screening plants can be very useful. A row of bins, that messy corner where broken pots and bags of compost accumulate or maybe the neighbour's ugly fence, are just some of the features that might be better covered up with a living wall of green.

Clever use of garden screening ideas can also create privacy in an overlooked space. Another benefit is that they add interest to a small plot when they can be used to create interconnected spaces. A bland square or plain rectangular space could be divided by a row of grasses. A trellis fence makes an inexpensive feature when it is situated halfway across the garden and smothered with roses or clematis. This partial screening creates an inviting glimpse into the area beyond, tricking the eye into thinking that the garden is larger than it really is.

The plant you choose depends on the reason for the screen. A semi-transparent row of planting might work in some spaces to break up a harsh boundary, but complete concealment might be preferable if you're looking to cover up an unattractive fence, for example. Our advice will help you find the best solution for your space.

1. Star Jasmine 

Evergreen foliage means that this pretty shrub, trachelospermum jasminoides, is a great choice for screening any trellis that is in part shade. "It is vigorous, with dense, even coverage," say the experts at Squires Garden Centres.

The starry clusters of flowers smell sweet on hot summer nights, and in winter, the leaves will turn bronze, but they won’t drop.

Star jasmine is a twining climber, which grows about 10-20cm a year, so it will add steady coverage, but won’t run riot. Plant in the ground or in a container and it’s perfect to provide seclusion near outdoor seating on a patio, which means you can take full advantage of its glorious fragrance.

Container-grown jasmine needs a large pot and frequent watering to keep the soil moist. In late winter or early spring, add fertiliser and mulch with compost.

2. Golden Hop

If you need fast-growing summer screening, then Humulus lupulus ‘Aureus,’ or Golden Hop (available from Thompson & Morgan), is a good choice for a climbing fence plant. It’s a perennial twining climber, with zingy yellow-green foliage and trumpet-shaped flowers in summer.

Grow it up and over your pergola ideas, or up a large fence or wall and it will reach as tall as 6m in one season. For this reason, make sure that your space is not too small, or it could be overwhelming.

Grow in full sun and cut back in late winter or early spring for strong, fresh growth.

3. Bamboo

The experts at Squires recommend Phyllostachys Aurea, or golden bamboo, as one of their top screening plants, explaining that: "it has a wonderfully vibrant golden stem with evergreen foliage. At first the stems start green, then they mature to a bright golden yellow."

It grows quickly and has a contemporary look, so it's a top choice if you're a fan of modern garden ideas and need something that offers fast coverage. In fact, it is so enthusiastic that it may need containing if planted in the ground. This bamboo can top 7m and spread 4m after 10 years of growth. To be on the safe side, you may prefer to plant it in a container to help restrict its growth and prevent your bamboo becoming invasive.

Plant in full sun or partial shade in moist but well-drained soil. Keep watering during the growing season, as bamboos are thirsty plants.

4. Honeysuckle 

Honeysuckle is a wonderful way to screen off a less-than-lovely garden shed, or it could be used to soften a harsh new garden fence or trained up a trellis to create some much needed garden privacy.

Many honeysuckles are semi-evergreen, which means they will lose some of their leaves in winter, but they do retain a partial screening effect. They grow between two to three metres in a year and flower from summer to autumn.

These are easy-care plants, which thrive in light shade. Cut back the flowered stems by a third in late summer, and then tidy up again in late winter. Try ‘American Beauty’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) a hardy, semi-evergreen, for its gold and rose scented flowers and fast-growing habit (ultimate height is 5m).

5. Cherry Laurel (Prunus Novita)

Another of the best screening plants, as recommended by the expert team at Squires, is a new variety of the popular evergreen Cherry Laurel. It’s a good one for people who live in areas with harsher winters as it is resistant to cold weather.

"It has lovely, glossy, mid-green ovate leaves, and is a staple screening plant in many gardens," say the experts. It is easy to maintain with a light prune or a trim to keep its shape.

Give the shrub a nitrogen-based feed in the growing season to keep it looking fresh, and plant it in free draining but moist soil. After 10 years, the ultimate height will be 4m and the spread is 4m.

6. Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’

Tall and upstanding, this type of ornamental grass can be planted en masse in garden borders to form a feathery screen, or lined up in pots in groups. The green shoots appear in early spring, followed by plume-like flowers which are green, fading to buff/blonde.

It is very easy to grow, it just needs cutting down to the ground in February. Don’t cut it any earlier, as the screening effect will last over winter, and it looks very pretty when the fronds are dusted with white frost. Grows to a height of around 2m if it’s kept well-watered. Plant in a large pot in full sun or partial shade.

7. Pennisetum 

It’s also known as Chinese Fountain Grass, which is apt, because it has arching plumes, like a spray of water, with feathery flowers on top. The height and spread is 1.5m, which makes this a good plant to frame a seating area as part of your patio planting plan. It likes full sun and a sheltered spot.

8. Miscanthus 

This is an easy grass to grow as it tolerates most soils (although it prefers full sun). It has exuberant fountains of foliage in early summer, and the colour changes subtly through the seasons, bleaching to a pretty blonde in winter.

For a taller plant, try miscanthus sinensis ‘Undine’ which grows to 2.5m, or for a smaller choice, miscanthus sinensis ‘Kleine silberspinne’ which reaches about 1.5m.

9. Verbena bonariensis 

If you're after partial screening rather than full coverage, this upright perennial has skinny, criss-crossing stems and tiny purple flowers which are loved by bees and butterflies. The slim, elegant stalks create a lattice effect. They grow up to 2m tall and can be planted in a row where they will rocket away and become a beautiful veil in just one season (returning the next year).

You can either grow flowers from seed or invest in some small plants from the nursery or garden centre. They will tolerate poor soil and dryer conditions.

10. Lavender

If you pick a tall variety of lavender and plant it as a hedge in a raised garden bed, it will create a see-through wall of scent and colour. Try Lavandula x intermedia ‘Hidcote Giant’ or Lavandula Intermedia 'Grosso’ both of which can top 1m in height. The flowers have lovely long, robust stems. Plant them about 30cm apart.

Lavender is excellent for growing in drought or dry conditions, as it just needs watering regularly until it gets established. Trim the spent flowers back every summer so the bush can put on a bit of growth before winter.

11. Clematis

If you're after one of the best climbing plants for pergolas, a clematis should be high on your list. A shady roof clad with big, beautiful flowers and thick foliage is exactly what you get if you plant a Group 3 climbing clematis. It needs a little help to achieve full thickness, so give it a trim in early spring and keep tying in the sides to create density.

Plant a couple of clematis on either side of the pergola and they will climb up and over the structure creating a perfect sense of seclusion. Try ‘Ernest Markham’ or ‘Mary Rose.’

12. Rambling rose

A rambling rose is one of the best types of roses to cover a garden wall, fence or a shed. It has small flowers in large sprays creating a mass of colour. Rambling roses only produce only one flush of flowers a year lasting a couple of weeks, usually in early summer, and they will lose their leaves in winter.

There are so many varieties to choose from. A very tall one, reaching 7.5m is ‘Belvedere,’ which has small, pale pink flowers and a pretty scent.

FAQs

How can you use screening plants to create privacy in a garden? 

Privacy in overlooked gardens can be achieved by introducing wood or metal arbours, a pergola or even some simple garden arches where screening plants can scramble thickly overhead. These features are readily available online or at garden centres. Then it’s just a matter of choosing a fast growing screening plant to grow over them and you could be looking at some much-needed seclusion in just one to two years.

What are the fastest growing screening plants? 

Bamboo, honeysuckle and Golden Hop are all good choices for fast-growing screening plants. Certain types of clematis (marked Group 3 on the plant label) will cover a trellis or pergola in quick time too if you cut the ends back in early spring to encourage thicker growth.

Some of the best screening plants can be fast growers, but they may also become invasive, so before you choose which plants are suitable for your space, check the ultimate height and spread and make sure it is right for your plot.

If your aim is to create some effective privacy fence ideas and you're therefore planting near a boundary with a neighbour, avoid going for very large plants which could cause problems with invasive roots. These can block drains and soakaways, so it’s worth taking the time to ensure that your plants will not cause a dispute with anyone living next door to you.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Did you know you can change the colour of hydrangeas? Well, at least when it comes to mophead and lacecap cultivars of Hydrangea macrophylla, Hydrangea involucrata, and Hydrangea serrata. Maybe you want to try a new look for your shrubs. Or, perhaps you've noticed your once-blue bloomer turning pink unexpectedly and want to get it back to its former hue. Either way, the process is quite straightforward once you know how.

These plants are one of our favourite flowering shrubs for adding structure and vibrancy to a plot. What's more, learning how to grow hydrangeas is easy, so they're ideal for novice and experienced gardeners alike.

And they're not just for borders – you can plant them in containers too. In fact, changing the colour of hydrangeas in containers is easier than those planted straight into the ground as you have more control over the soil. We explain everything you need to know in this simple guide.

How the soil pH impacts the colour of your hydrangeas

Hydrangeas with blue or pink flowers tend to be blue in acid soil conditions, mauve in acid to neutral soil conditions, and pink in alkaline conditions.

This means that by changing the pH of the soil, you can achieve different hydrangea colours to complement your garden colour scheme. Bear in mind that the colour change won't happen overnight, however – it is an ongoing process.

How do you make your hydrangea blue?

Whether growing hydrangeas in pots or in the ground, you can maintain blue-hued blooms by acidifying the soil.

Try mulching with organic matter – apart from mushroom compost, which is more alkaline. Using ericaceous compost, such as this John Innes compost from Amazon, also tends to be effective.

You can also buy "blueing" compounds from garden centres and online, which should be applied according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Some gardeners also say adding coffee grounds to the soil can help, or working bits of rusty metal into the feeding-root area can be another option to try.

John Negus, a gardening expert and writer for Amateur Gardening, also recommends using rainwater to water hydrangeas to help keep them blue. You can collect it in a water butt – which is also a good approach if you want a more eco-friendly garden.

How do you make your hydrangea pink?

Hydrangeas in neutral or chalky (alkaline) soils generally produce pink or mauve, slightly muddy-colored blooms. "Pink blooms are caused by a relatively high pH, of around 7.5–8," says John Negus.

The best way to do this is to add garden lime, such as this Westland Garden Lime Soil Conditioner from Amazon, to the soil. Follow the instructions on the pack of your chosen product, but doing it every couple of weeks during the growing season should be effective.

Adding wood ash to the soil around your hydrangeas can also help to increase its alkalinity – a useful tip for those who have invested in a fire pit for their garden.

Can you change the colour of white hydrangeas?

Hydrangeas with green or white flowers are increasingly popular nowadays, working well in both modern and romantic, cottage-garden schemes. But, unlike the blue and pink varieties, these types can not have their colour changed as they are unaffected by soil pH.

Some will, however, turn slightly pink as they age, says John Negus.

FAQs

Why are some of my hydrangea's flowers blue and some pink?

It is quite unusual to have hydrangeas that have both pink and blue blooms, but it can happen. The reason behind this is generally because there are pockets of acidity within the plant's root area.

To have more control over the soil, you may want to try planting your hydrangea in large garden planters instead.

As previously highlighted, changing the colour of your hydrangeas will be easier if you are growing them in pots as you can have more control of the soil pH due to your choice of potting compost.

Another benefit to growing them in pots is that if you have issues with your hydrangea not blooming you can easily move it to another spot to see if different growing conditions helps it to bloom once more.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

If you've noticed couch grass growing in your garden and spoiling the uniform look of your lawn, you may be wondering whether it's a weed and if you should remove it.

While yes, this perennial species is technically a weed – spreading aggressively and sometimes competing with other plants outdoors – it can play an important part in the ecosystem in your garden, for butterflies and moths in particular.

To find out whether you should remove it and the easiest way to do so, we spoke with two gardening experts who have shared their advice below.

Should I remove couch grass?

No, you don’t need to remove couch grass as part of your lawn care routine. In fact, this species supports the wildlife in your garden, acting as an important food source for butterfly and moth caterpillars, according to experts at the RHS.

It can also provide shelter for some insects, such as beetles, keeping them protected from predators and providing a safe hunting ground.

Not only does it help the creatures in your garden, but it also increases biodiversity, and RHS experts say it is increasingly being considered a wildflower. Thanks to its flowering seed head – which appears from June to August – this grass can also look very pretty in a meadow-style space.

While there are lots of benefits to keeping couch grass in your garden, it’s worth being aware that it is an invasive and fast-growing plant, which can spoil the look of a tidy lawn and outcompete other plants.

With that in mind, you may choose to remove it or relocate it to another area of the garden. The RHS recommends this if it is growing in a vegetable garden, newly planted borders, newly sown lawns, and alpine rockeries, and suggests doing so in early spring.

How do I remove couch grass?

If couch grass is causing problems in your garden, you can remove this weed naturally, as using a herbicide will also kill patches of your lawn.

“Couch grass is one of the most persistent garden weeds because it spreads through an extensive network of underground stems, known as rhizomes. Simply pulling off the top growth often isn't enough, as any remaining roots can quickly regenerate and produce new plants," explains Martin Chaplin, Head of Horticulture at Hedges Direct.

“To remove couch grass effectively, it's important to dig out as much of the root system as possible, carefully lifting and removing the white rhizomes from the soil. Some gardeners find using a garden fork rather than a spade helps, as it loosens the soil while reducing the likelihood of cutting the roots into smaller pieces that can regrow elsewhere."

If you're dealing with a large infestation, he says you can cover the area with cardboard, mulch, or a weed-suppressing membrane for several months, which will block light and weaken the plant.

Top tip: remove couch grass after rainfall as the rhizomes will be easier to lift, and avoid aggressive digging as this can spread it even further.

Tackle couch grass with these shopping picks

How do I control couch grass?

If you don't want to remove the couch grass altogether (but would rather it didn't grow out of control), Martin Chaplin recommends "regular weeding, mulching and maintaining healthy, densely planted borders" to suppress new growth.

"Ground-cover planting can also be useful, as couch grass is less likely to spread vigorously where there is strong competition from established plants. Varieties such as hardy geraniums, vinca (periwinkle) and ajuga create dense coverage that helps shade the soil and reduce the space available for weeds to establish," he adds.

As we've learned, there are pros and cons to couch grass in your garden, and deciding whether to remove it or keep it is ultimately up to you.

If you found this helpful, you may want to read our guide on laying turf over grass or learn about the different types of ornamental grass.

Take time to consider which are the best trees for creating privacy in your garden. Hasty purchases could result in a tree which is too large for the plot – or the wrong shape to solve the problem.

It is tempting to opt for a fast fix such as a rapidly growing evergreen which will shoot up and mask the problem with dense growth in a couple of seasons. But bear in mind that this could also exclude valuable light from your garden, restricting the growth of existing plants. It might also shade the rooms in your house, and even cause conflict with the neighbours.

If the issue is with one window which overlooks your property, it may be that a carefully placed single tree will be enough to provide suitable garden screening. Tree shape is a factor, too. Are you looking for a lacy screen of branches to mask an expansive overlooked area? A multi-stemmed tree might solve that problem. Use our selection to choose a privacy tree which will add value and interest to your garden as well as solving a common problem.

1. Banana palm

Best for: screening from above

Overlooked by another house or a block of flats looming above your garden? The huge paddle-shaped leaves of the banana palm act as a living parasol, offering shade and shelter. Although they look like tender plants, these palms will survive cold snaps, although fleecing is a good idea if a prolonged cold snap is forecast. The foliage may die back after frosts.

Cut the plant down to ground level and it should sprout again in late spring. Feed monthly with an all-purpose soluble plant food. Try Musa ‘Red Abyssinian’ for attractive colouring and leaf shape.

2. English holly 

Best for: year-round colour

For an elegant and quintessentially English screen, a holly tree (Ilex aquifolium) makes a great choice for one of the best trees for privacy. Evergreen for year-round privacy, they can be precisely shaped to block unwelcome eyes from a particular spot, or allowed to expand into a larger and more natural shape.

There’s also the bonus of pretty red berries on female trees, as long as they are grown near a male tree.

3. Hornbeam 

Best for: creating a year-round screen

Although this is a deciduous tree, the young stems hang on to their neatly shaped red and gold leaves over the winter months, so you’re always guaranteed some coverage.

Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) can be grown as a tree or a hedge, but it must be pruned in midsummer to keep control of the size. With an ultimate height of 80ft (25m), it is essential to keep on top of cutting back.

4. Silver birch

Best for: light screening

A multi-stemmed silver birch makes a beautiful privacy screen. Its filigree branches with pure white bark and vase shape will let the light through while keeping prying eyes out.

Try Betula utilis jacquemontii ‘Snow Queen’ which will grow in sun or semi shade in most types of well-drained soil and can withstand harsh winters. This tree is frequently recommended by experts as a garden essential. "It is bullet proof," says Michael Buck of Form Plants.

5. Photinia standard tree

Best for: screening above the fence line

Photinia is a dense, evergreen shrub, but it can be bought as a shapely tree grafted on to a clear stem (that’s a long, slender trunk). ‘Red Robin’ (available from Dobies) is a good choice as the young leaves are an attractive scarlet. This can be encouraged by regular, gentle trimming in spring and summer. It has pretty white flowers in April and May.

It typically grows up to 30cm per year, reaching an ultimate height and spread of 16ft (5m). It will grow in full sun or partial shade and is a good choice if you're looking to create a privacy fence.

6. Bay tree

Best for: small garden screening

These evergreen conical-shaped trees lend themselves to garden planter ideas, perhaps to screen off a small seating area. The leathery, evergreen foliage has a wonderful scent, and the little lime green flowers in spring are especially beneficial for bees.

Grow in full sun or partial shade, in a sheltered spot, and if in a container, keep them well-watered in hot, dry spells. Prune to keep the shape and restrict size. They will grow up to 3ft (1m) in a pot, and up to 10ft (3m) in the ground. You'll find plenty more options for the best trees to grow in pots in our dedicated guide too.

7. Thuja Green Giant

Best for: rapid coverage in large gardens

One of the best trees for privacy if you're looking to create dense screening in larger gardens. It can grow to a towering 50-60ft (15-18m) if not tightly controlled with regular pruning (once a year at least).

This evergreen conifer has glossy, aromatic dark green leaves and brown cones. Cut it back in autumn to maintain the shape and size. This is a hardy tree which can cope with cold climates and rugged terrain.

8. Italian cypress 

Best for: extra-tall coverage

If you're searching for the best trees for small gardens, these pencil slim conifers are a practical choice if you need an extra-tall screen in a compact space.

Tough and hardy, with an architectural shape, they look good placed side by side, anywhere that coverage is needed. Ideal for Mediterranean garden ideas, they are drought-tolerant, but container grown ones will need regular watering.

9. Black cherry plum tree

Best for: front garden privacy

A single tree planted in front of a house can perform a double function: creating an attractive focal point while screening the windows from curious passers-by.

Ornamental cherry trees are one of the best options for front gardens, particularly Prunus cerasifera ‘Nigra’ (available from Crocus) which has masses of pale blossom in March and April, on rich purple/chocolate coloured foliage. It’s a medium-sized tree with a pleasing, rounded shape, which grows around 16ft (5m) tall in 20 years. It can cope with pollution in urban gardens and thrives in sun or partial shade in well-draining soil.

10. Western Red Cedar

Best for: a dense boundary screen with a cedar scent

Evergreen Thuja Plicata is a fast growing tree, increasing at around 40-60cm per year. It can make a good alternative to the more problematic Leylandii and is an ideal choice for a fast-growing hedge if you want to create a dense screen along a boundary.

It grows best in full sun or partial shade and typically reaches around 35m in height with a conical shape. You can keep its height in check with regular pruning if you want to use it as more of a hedging plant. It also gives off a lovely cedar scent when you brush past it.

FAQs

How far from your house should you plant a tree for privacy?

This is a really important question before going ahead with purchasing a tree for privacy. You need to weigh up the benefits of screening versus the potential for damage to your property, which can be created by invasive roots or ground shrinkage caused by the tree taking up all the ground water.

That being said, most trees are unlikely to cause many issues, providing you carefully consider the final height and spread of the tree when it will be fully grown.

According to Tony Kirkham, author of The Kew Gardener’s Guide to Growing Trees (available at Amazon), "the general rule of thumb is to work out what the overall height of the tree is when mature and plant it three quarters of its height away from the house."

What type of tree grows fast for privacy? 

Healthy trees grow fastest, so ensure that you buy from a trustworthy source and follow the planting and care instructions closely.

Whether you are planting bare root trees or a more established specimen, watering your new tree regularly for the first couple of years is key. Most garden centres and specialist tree nurseries will be only too happy to offer additional advice if you have never grown a tree before.

What is the fastest growing evergreen for privacy?

Leylandii is one of the fastest growers, but it’s not the prettiest tree, and its vigorous habit is notorious for creating boundary issues. Certain species of eucalyptus can grow up to 9ft (2m) in a single year. The aptly named Thuja Green Giant sprouts 3ft (0.9m) annually, Italian Cypress adds around two feet (0.6m) per year.

Trees can be contained with regular pruning at the right time of year, but it is important to choose one whose proportions won’t take over your garden landscaping ideas.

Before you make your final choice of tree for creating privacy in your garden, make sure you measure your garden, find out which way it faces and what kind of soil type you have, as these are important factors which can influence the tree type.

Whether you are trying to create privacy from a neighbouring property, windows, ugly street furniture or a busy road, gardening expert Tony Kirkham has one final piece of advice: "Don’t be tempted to plant the old-fashioned conifer hedge Leyland Cypress because it is fast growing and cheap to buy," he says. "In the long term it will potentially be problematic and ugly."

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

There could be a few reasons why your hydrangea isn't blooming, and luckily, most can be fixed.

Having had a resurgence over the last few years, hydrangeas are a valuable addition to a planting scheme for their statement structure. But the most appealing feature of these shrubs has to be their giant flower heads in bright blue or pink, or in some varieties, such as 'Annabelle', a dazzling white. So, if yours isn't blooming, you'll likely feel disappointed.

However, in many cases, all it takes is a few adjustments to your hydrangea plant care routine to get those beautiful flowers back. Below, you'll find six things that could be going wrong and how to remedy them.

1. Pruning hydrangeas incorrectly

"One of the most common reasons why hydrangeas fail to flower is incorrect pruning," says Ruth Hayes, former Gardening Editor of Amateur Gardening.

In most cases, hydrangea pruning should be done in late spring, she explains, or even later in colder areas. This is because "the previous year's old flower heads help protect the new growth from frost."

If your hydrangea has failed to flower, Ruth suggests feeding it monthly with sulphate of potash throughout summer, then leaving it unpruned until late next spring.

"When you prune, reduce stems to a healthy pair of leaf buds, then feed with a general-purpose fertiliser, water and mulch over the root area," she adds.

However, do bear in mind that some hydrangeas need pruning after they've finished flowering in late summer – so double check which approach is suitable for your plant.

2. Too much or too little water

Watering plants correctly is fundamental to their health, so if your hydrangea isn't flowering, this could be part of the problem.

As the RHS explains, "shrubs often fail to flower after drought," whether that's from this year or last. Keeping the compost around your hydrangea moist, particularly in periods of dry and sunny spells, can help keep it healthy and flowering well. Mulching is a good way to help the soil retain moisture.

Be careful you don't overwater, though, as this can lead hydrangeas' roots to rot, leaves to drop, and flowers to fail to form. So ensure that the soil around your shrub is well-draining.

If you're growing hydrangeas in pots, raising them up on pot feet can help prevent compost from becoming waterlogged.

Shop these budget-friendly fixes

3. Excessive feeding

Although fertilising plants can be very beneficial in helping them grow strong, too much of a good thing can be detrimental. This is particularly the case if you're using a nitrogen-rich feed, which will encourage plenty of lush green leaves – at the expense of blooms.

Bear in mind that mulches made up of poultry manure or farmyard manure can also be high in nitrogen, as the RHS explains. So, it may be wise to stop using these if you've noticed fewer flowers on your shrubs.

4. Planting your hydrangea in the wrong place

"While hydrangeas prefer protection from hot, direct sun, too much shade will prevent them from forming flower buds. They generally need at least three to four hours of sunlight daily. Too much sun can stress the plant, causing it to conserve energy and not form flowers," says Chris Wood, Head Florist at Waitrose Gardens.

What's more, if your hydrangea is in a very exposed site, it's more likely to succumb to frost damage which can prevent buds from flowering. And speaking of frost – you'll also want to check that the hydrangea varieties you buy are suitable for your region in terms of their hardiness.

If you think yours could benefit from a new position in your plot, take into account the fact that shrubs can take a little time to re-establish. So, don't worry if it takes a year or so to re-flower properly.

5. Letting your hydrangea become pot-bound

Plants grown in containers can become pot-bound, which is where their roots become congested and restricted. This can lead to them suffering from drought and a lack of nutrients, explains the RHS.

If you're having trouble getting your pot-grown hydrangea to bloom, this could be the reason. Re-plant it in a larger pot in autumn, once it has finished flowering.

6. Plant age

According to Chris Wood, hydrangeas can sometimes take one to four years before they bloom reliably while they establish a strong root system. Unfortunately, the only solution is to be a little more patient with the plant.

While it can be very frustrating when your hydrangeas don’t bloom, we hope you can take some comfort in knowing there are many potential reasons – and that it’s usually something you can fix.

For more advice, read our guide on garden design or the best trees for small gardens.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Leaving your garden lights on may feel like an extra layer of security to your home, but it could actually have a serious impact on outdoor wildlife, experts have warned.

From birds to bats, this mistake could put a wide range of species at risk without you even realising, which is why it’s important to turn lights off when they’re not in use.

Below, you’ll find out why this common error is such a bad idea, and the safer garden lighting alternatives you can switch to instead.

Why is it a bad idea to leave your garden lights on overnight?

Whether you leave your garden lights on for added security and to keep your home safe from burglars or simply forget to switch them off, keeping them on overnight can be bad news for wildlife in your garden.

"Some species of bats avoid light areas altogether, while for other animals such as common frogs, artificial light can lure them in. We’ve probably all seen moths flying around a street or security light – becoming exhausted and put at higher risk of predation," says Helen Bostock, Senior Wildlife Specialist at RHS.

She explains that while animals that are most active during dusk, dawn or during the night are obviously most impacted, new evidence has found that day-active wildlife can also be affected.

"Robins, for instance, will keep hunting and singing in lit-up streets, using up vital energy. Birds that prefer to start their migration under cover of dark can become disorientated with our brightly lit cities," she says.

What's more, a study published in the Journal of Biological Conservation found that light pollution is a driver of insect declines, as it affects their movement, foraging, reproduction, and predation.

“Homes must be designed to be wildlife-friendly, from lighting to garden landscaping, to help nature thrive alongside people. Just like turning off the tap when you brush your teeth, if everyone turns a garden light off at night, we'll be making a difference for wildlife," adds Richard Benwell, Chief Executive of Wildlife and Countryside Link.

Which garden lights are the worst for wildlife?

LED lights – particularly those with cooler colour temperatures – are one of the worst culprits of light pollution. If possible, Helen Bostock recommends switching them to a low-intensity, warm white bulb – aim for 2700 Kelvin or lower.

Where to buy wildlife-friendly garden lighting

How can I reduce light pollution in my garden?

To reduce light pollution in your garden and minimise the impact on wildlife, Helen Bostock recommends the following steps:

1. Keep your garden dark: If possible, leave areas of your garden completely dark and include a safe passage across the space.

2. Keep light to a minimum: While you may need to illuminate some areas of your home, such as the front door or security systems, you can reduce the impact by using motion sensors for short periods.

3. Angle your lighting: If possible, angle your lighting downwards or fit a cowl over the top to deflect it.

4. Choose low-intensity solar lights: These will have less impact than harsh, bright LEDs (and are cheaper to run as a bonus).

5. Avoid garden pond lighting: This will help pond life remain undisturbed.

6. Draw your curtains: Don’t forget about the lighting inside your home too. Keep blinds and curtains closed after dark, including on patio doors.

While it might be unrealistic to keep your garden in total darkness every evening, there are a number of ways to reduce your impact – from switching to a warm-colour-temperature bulb to opting for a motion-sensor holder.

For more expert advice on this topic, read our guide on garden lighting laws or take inspiration from these incredible eco homes.

If you love cooking in the sunshine and hosting in the garden, designing an outdoor kitchen should be high on your wish list, saving you from having to go in and out of the house when guests visit in the summer.

From built-in options to affordable standalone units, there are plenty of ways to get creative with this feature and tailor it to both your budget, and garden size.

To find out how you could make your dream outdoor kitchen idea a reality, we asked two experts about the design process, costs, and where to scrimp and spend. We also spoke to a homeowner who created his own from scratch, gathering tips and tricks he learned along the way.

How do I design an outdoor kitchen?

1. The planning stage

Before you get to the fun part – choosing finishes, layouts, and materials – Rupert King, Retail Sales Manager at HEX Living, recommends considering how you genuinely intend to use the space.

Don’t just select something because it aligns with the latest garden trends; he says that "the most successful outdoor kitchens are designed around lifestyle."

With that in mind, have a think about:

• How often the space will be used
• How many people you will typically entertain
• Whether the kitchen will be used in the summer or all-year round
• Exposure to wind, rain and sunlight
• Proximity to the indoor kitchen
• Available utilities and power supply
• Storage requirements
• Shelter and seating arrangements

"Starting with functionality allows every other decision – from layout to appliances – to feel more considered and cohesive," Rupert adds.

When Sam Dimmock from Hertfordshire set about designing his outdoor kitchen, location was a top priority in the planning stage, and he decided to place it in a suntrap spot in his garden. “While I would have liked to add a pergola for when it’s raining, it would have blocked the sunlight.”

2. Choosing the layout

Getting the layout right in your outdoor kitchen is key, especially if you're working with a smaller space. If you don't feel confident, it's worth working with a professional – whether that's a landscaper, kitchen designer, or garden architect – to help you get the most out of this new addition.

"The best outdoor kitchens are designed to encourage interaction rather than separate the cook from guests. Creating clearly defined zones for cooking, dining and relaxing helps the space feel organised while maintaining a natural social flow," says Rupert King.

"Island layouts and integrated seating work particularly well because they allow guests to gather comfortably around the cooking area, making the experience more interactive and informal."

As an avid BBQer, Sam Dimmock designed his layout around his outdoor ovens. “I ensured there was enough space to fit my Kamado Egg BBQ, rotisserie, and different grills, as well as storage for utensils, cleaning equipment, and firelighters.”

3. Selecting the materials

Your outdoor kitchen needs to be hardy enough to withstand whatever weather conditions the UK throws at it – whether that's torrential rain, six-inch snow, or baking sunshine. With that in mind, ensure your worktop materials, cabinets, and worktops are fully weatherproof and, where possible, come with a strong warranty or guarantee.

Rupert King's top recommendation is porcelain, which is highly resistant to UV exposure, moisture, stains, and temperature fluctuations. While natural stone and timber can look aesthetically pleasing and full of character, he warns that they typically require more maintenance and ongoing care.

"Outdoor kitchens face very different environmental conditions to indoor spaces, so durability should carry just as much weight as appearance," he adds.

As a budget-friendly alternative to traditional worktops, Sam Dimmock carried his porcelain paving slabs up onto the countertops, creating a seamless – and affordable – appearance in his outdoor kitchen.

"At some point I do want to add a granite worktop, but the porcelain works well for now," he says. "I chose stainless steel built-in cabinet doors, as they are durable, weatherproof and match my BBQ."

Where do I spend and save on an outdoor kitchen?

While it can be possible to create an outdoor kitchen on a budget, some areas aren't worth scrimping on, according to Rupert King.

Where to spend

• Robust worktops
• High-quality cabinetry
• Good garden lighting
• Power supply
• Metal parts
• Reliable appliances

Where to save

• Accessories
• Styling pieces
• Secondary appliances

Shop these outdoor kitchen accessories

How much does an outdoor kitchen cost?

An outdoor kitchen can cost anywhere between £300 and £40,000, according to Joanne Bull, Marketing Manager for KönigOutdoor.

We appreciate this is a wide range, but she says it will depend on whether you choose a simple brick-built unit, or go all out on a design-led kitchen with integrated appliances and bespoke cabinets.

How much space do you need to add an outdoor kitchen?

"We have installed outdoor kitchens on small rooftop terraces to sprawling country gardens, so don’t be put off if it’s not going in a large garden," says Joanne Bull. "A 3m x 3m space is adequate for a compact, yet comfortable setup with a cooking appliance, cabinetry and worktops."

What are the common mistakes people make when designing an outdoor kitchen?

Let’s take a look at some of the most common mistakes people make when designing an outdoor kitchen, so you can avoid them:

1. Not researching the materials enough: Your outdoor kitchen needs to withstand all sorts of weather conditions throughout the year, so you can't choose just any old material. It needs to be durable, weatherproof, and low maintenance – otherwise, you'll end up replacing it a year later.

2. Not allowing enough storage and prep space: Joanne Bull says many people overlook this, resulting in, “endless ferrying of plates, utensils, and ingredients back and forth to the indoor kitchen,” which defeats the whole point of this feature.

3. Poor positioning: This could look like "a lack of shelter from wind, a drinks fridge placed in direct sunlight, or smoke drifting straight into open bifold doors."

There’s a lot to consider when designing an outdoor kitchen, but with proper planning and the right core materials, you’ll be on track to creating something beautiful, long-lasting, and built for making memories.

For more practical advice and design inspiration, browse through these brilliant garden bar ideas or learn how to build a garden room.

Tiles have long been a go-to for patio floors, but designers are now using them in far more creative – and beautiful – ways outdoors. From tiled tabletops to outdoor shower walls, the possibilities go well beyond what you'd find underfoot.

And it makes sense. The same qualities that make tiles so hardwearing and handsome inside the home – their texture, colour and permanence – translate brilliantly to outdoor spaces too.

Whether you're planning a full outdoor kitchen or simply looking for a finishing touch that elevates your garden design, these outdoor tile ideas might just convince you to think beyond the patio.

1. Create an alfresco tiled bathing nook for an outdoor soak

Tucked beneath a sheltered canopy and wrapped in inky blue metro tiles, this beautiful bathing nook is the perfect spot for winding down on a warm summer's evening.

Jamie Robb, creative director at Marlborough Tiles, describes the inspiration behind this space: "There’s something undeniably restorative about stepping outside and immersing yourself in water, surrounded by the sounds and scents of nature. Here, tiles play a subtle but important role, shaping the mood through colour and texture.

"Gentle greens soften into the landscape, blurring the line between built space and garden, while deeper blues bring a sense of calm and depth – reminiscent of a night sky just beginning to appear. The result is a space that feels both grounding and indulgent, designed not just for function but for experience."

You don't need a grand garden to pull off something similar at home. Even a sheltered corner or a simple lean-to can work brilliantly as a spot for an outdoor freestanding bath. Keep tiles dark and glossy to add depth to a smaller space, and layer in natural textures around them for relaxed and lived-in feel.

2. Add a tiled outdoor shower for a touch of everyday luxury

Once you've installed an outdoor shower, it's hard to imagine a summer without one. They're ideal for rinsing off after a dip in the swimming pool or cooling down on a hot day. Plus, when it's tiled like this one, it becomes a proper garden feature in its own right.

These rich, glossy green metro tiles work so well here because they echo the surrounding planting. For a similar look at home, keep the footprint compact and the colour confident. A small tiled platform underfoot and a tiled back panel are really all you need.

Antique brass or copper fixtures will complement earthy greens and blues beautifully, and surrounding the structure with generous planting will help it bed into the garden naturally.

3. Pair large-format tiles with sleek subway designs for a contemporary look

One of the most effective tricks in any tiler's toolkit is mixing tile sizes and formats, and this outdoor kitchen is a great example of how well it can work. Large-format floor tiles anchor the dining area, while classic white subway tiles line the kitchen walls – two very different styles that sit comfortably side by side because the palette stays consistent throughout.

The key is letting one element – such as the flooring – take the lead and keeping everything else simple around it. A neutral grout colour used consistently throughout will also help tie the different formats together and stop the overall scheme from feeling busy.

4. Add a creative tiled splashback to an outdoor kitchen

A tiled splashback is one of the best opportunities you have to inject some real personality into an outdoor kitchen. This one holds its own beautifully against the surrounding stonework and rolling landscape, the warm patterned tiles and deep blue accents adding character without ever tipping into excess.

Maria D'Arráez, director at Tile of Spain UK explains the appeal: "Just like an indoor kitchen, an outdoor splashback allows homeowners to be creative with pattern, colour and finish, whilst also helping to create a distinct cooking zone in the garden. A neutral palette remains timeless while patterned or brightly coloured tiles add visual interest without overwhelming the space."

If you're working with natural materials elsewhere, such as stone, timber and brick, a patterned splashback is a lovely way to introduce decorative detail without disrupting the overall design.

5. Use tiles on a tabletop for a stylish alfresco dining space

As budget patio ideas go, a tiled tabletop punches well above its weight. It looks considered and crafted, but is far simpler to achieve than it appears. This tablescape is a lovely example. The soft, patterned tiles sit so naturally against the warm stone wall behind that the whole thing feels effortlessly designed.

Jamie Robb, creative director at Marlborough Tiles, describes the appeal: "A handcrafted tabletop becomes a focal point for shared meals, its pattern catching the shifting light throughout the day. Soft greens and layered tones echo the surrounding landscape, allowing the space to feel rooted in its setting."

These statement pieces work just as well on a smaller scale too. A tiled bistro table for two can be every bit as impactful as a full dining table, and is a much simpler project to take on. Look for tiles with a handmade, slightly tactile quality, as they tend to feel far more alive outdoors than flatter, more uniform finishes.

6. Make tiles the centrepiece of a relaxed garden gathering

Who says outdoor entertaining has to mean a formal dining table? This laid-back setup – complete with a tiled coffee table and sideboard for drinks and grazing boards – is the kind of scene that makes a summer evening feel extra special.

These glossy teal tiles by Marlborough Tiles tie the two pieces together beautifully, giving the whole arrangement a cohesion that stops it feeling too makeshift.

Maria D'Arráez explains why tiles work so well in this kind of setting: "An outdoor kitchen island is a great opportunity to be adventurous with colour, texture and design. Tiles help to soften a space and make it feel more inviting."

It's a surprisingly achievable look too. A basic wooden workbench or potting table tiled on the top and front becomes an instant garden bar, and a low wooden coffee table treated to the same finish pulls the whole thing together.

Recreate the look in your own garden

7. Add a striking tiled fireplace to your outdoor scheme

An outdoor fireplace is already a pretty compelling addition to a garden, but when it's clad in decorative tiles like these, it becomes something else entirely. These textured tiles in a warm terracotta tone create a surface that's almost sculptural, giving the fireplace a real sense of presence even when it isn't lit.

What makes this work so well is the commitment to it. The tiles run all the way to the top of the chimney breast, turning what could have been a simple garden fireplace into a focal point for the whole space. Harriet Goodacre from Topps Tiles makes a strong case for thinking vertically when it comes to outdoor tiles.

"It instantly makes the space feel more considered and curated," Harriet explains. "Vertical tiling can also work surprisingly well in smaller gardens as it helps draw the eye around the space, creating key focal points that don't take up any extra room."

If you're planning something similar at home, don't be tempted to tile just the surround and leave the rest plain. Taking the tiles higher gives the whole structure the weight and drama it deserves.

8. Add a pop of colour to a greenhouse with bright floor tiles

According to Harriet Goodacre, tiles can do a lot of work in unexpected outdoor spaces: "Rather than sticking purely to large patio areas, consider using your outdoor floor tiles in unexpected ways – even smaller touches can have a big impact and completely change the feel of a space."

A garden room or greenhouse is a perfect candidate. Take this gorgeous space designed by Baked Tiles. The floor doesn't need to be too vibrant to make an impact. The choice of pattern is delicate and the colours muted, but the effect is still striking.

If you're planning something similar, look for encaustic-style or cement-effect tiles with a traditional repeat pattern, and consider running a contrasting border around the edge as this one does.

9. Go bold with your choice of pathway tile

Front path ideas don't get much more charming than this. The soft blue and grey patterned tiles draw the eye all the way to the front door, turning what could have been a purely functional strip of garden into an inviting feature that really enhances this property's kerb appeal.

The bordered edge is what really elevates it. Without it, the same tiles would read as a simple tiled path. With it, the whole scheme feels much more intentional. If you're planning something similar, take your time choosing the border tile, as it does a lot of the heavy lifting.

10. Zone an outdoor wellness space with colourful tiles

Zoning a garden doesn't have to involve heavy screens or purpose-built dividers. A change in tile colour or finish can do the job just as effectively, and often look better in the process.

Here, rough terracotta underfoot and glossy teal zellige on the walls create two very distinct surfaces that pull the bathing space away from the rest of the garden without any physical barrier at all.

Maria D'Arráez, director of Tile of Spain UK, explains the thinking behind this technique: "Tiles can be used to frame seating areas or help with zoning. A tiled feature wall can completely transform a corner of a garden, adding depth whilst also acting as an interesting decorative element."

11. Inject vibrancy into every step of your patio

Garden steps are one of those features that tend to get finished in the most practical material to hand, which is a shame because they're one of the best opportunities in the garden to do something really interesting with tiles.

"Installing decorative tiled details around seating areas, outdoor bars or even on the vertical face of garden steps can instantly add personality without overwhelming the space," explains Harriet Goodacre.

If you love this look, a monochrome encaustic pattern is a great starting point. It's graphic enough to make an impact but versatile enough to work with almost any garden style.

And if the steps lead directly into the house, Jamie Robb of Marlborough Tiles suggests considering continuing the same tile inside too – "letting the outdoors spill in creates a sense of openness and flow that makes both spaces feel larger and more connected."

12. Use a tiled feature wall to add interest to a small patio

A tiled feature wall is one of the best things you can do with a small patio, and this compact courtyard garden is a case in point. A floor-to-ceiling run of deep cobalt zellige tiles gives the back wall a real presence, the glossy surface catching the light and bouncing it back into the space in a way that makes it feel far bigger than it is.

The trick is to keep everything else simple and let the wall do the work. A tiled bench in a similar colour, as seen here, is a lovely finishing touch that echoes the feature wall without tipping the space into too much.

Selecting the right materials for your outdoor tiling project

Before falling for a tile, it's worth making sure it's built for the outdoors. Oli Webb, director of Cullifords, points to two materials worth knowing about: "Natural stone, such as granite, limestone and marble, provides a timeless and organic aesthetic, adding depth and character to any setting. Meanwhile, ceramic stone offers a sleek, modern alternative with the added benefits of low maintenance, water resistance and exceptional durability."

Porcelain is another firm favourite and can be a great way to make outdoor surfaces or patios look expensive. It's hardwearing, unfazed by the British weather and handles everything from summer heat to winter frost without complaint.

Whatever material you settle on, slip resistance is not something to gloss over. As Harriet Goodacre, interiors and tiling expert at Topps Tiles, explains: "Slip resistance is measured using different standards, including R ratings and PTV (Pendulum Test Value). Ideally you want an outdoor tile that's rated R11 and above or 36 PTV and above. It's no good having a tile that looks fantastic but becomes slippery in the rain and a safety risk."

“I’d also think carefully about colour choice," Harriet adds. "Whilst pale tiles look great, they’ll naturally show more dirt. Darker shades often don’t show marks up in the same way meaning they require less regular cleaning.”

If you're planning to DIY any of these outdoor tile projects, it's worth swotting up on drilling into tiles before you tackle any vertical surfaces.

And whatever the project, don't underestimate the importance of tile spacers – consistent grout lines make a significant difference to the finished result, particularly outdoors where any unevenness tends to show more than it would inside.

If you're thinking of creating a wellness zone as part of your garden landscaping ideas, then including a sauna in your set-up is generally considered a must-have.

And while installing one outdoors is partially similar to putting one inside your home, there are certain differences that you need to bear in mind to ensure a safe and suitable construction.

The good news is, in some cases it's not as complicated as you might think. And with plenty of options from pre-fabricated to bespoke to choose from, these are the six mains things to consider if you're splashing out on a garden sauna.

1. You may need to arrange for groundworks

If you're adding a standalone or bespoke sauna to your garden, "the first thing to get right is the foundations," says Jake Newport, CEO of Finnmark Sauna. "In most cases, a sauna can sit on a solid concrete slab, paving base or properly built decking structure, so it’s a process that's much closer to foundations for garden rooms, than having to dig extension foundations.

"The important thing is that the base is level and well-drained," he explains, "so the structure stays stable over time and moisture doesn’t build up underneath.”

"Installing an outdoor sauna is generally very straightforward," adds Rasmus Tipp, marketing director at Iglucraft. "Most saunas simply require a stable, level base such as concrete pads, compacted gravel or a slab foundation, depending on the size and model."

2. Electrics, plumbing and ventilation will need to be considered

Your service requirements for an outdoor sauna will initially depend on the type of sauna heater you choose.

“With electric sauna heaters, you’ll need a dedicated electrical circuit installed by a qualified electrician because the heaters draw far more power than a normal household plug can handle," explains Jake Newport.

“But even with wood-fired saunas, some people still choose to run electrics for lighting, controls or additional features inside the sauna," he notes. That said, if you don't want to run electricity to your outdoor sauna, you could do without it if you opt for a wood-burning sauna stove."

“The main additional consideration with wood-fired saunas," advises Jake, "is the flue system. That needs to be installed properly with safe clearances around the chimney and surrounding materials.

“Plumbing for an outdoor sauna is usually much simpler than people expect because saunas themselves are dry-heat environments," he continues

“You don’t generally need permanent water lines or drainage for the sauna itself, which makes installation much more straightforward than a steam room or spa setup."

Instead, all you need is a fresh bucket of water to pour over the hot stones, but this could come from an outdoor tap located on your home's exterior walls, rather than inside the sauna itself.

Shop for sauna accessories

3. Planning permission and placement

Unless you're planning on including a larger-than-life wellness complex in your garden, most outdoor saunas should fall outside of planning permission requirements.

"In many cases, outdoor saunas fall within permitted development, meaning planning permission is not required," confirms Rasmus Tipp. "However, this can vary depending on the size, height and location of the sauna, as well as whether the property is listed or located within a conservation area. It is always recommended to check with your local authority before installation."

Regulations regarding proximity to boundaries and neighbours can vary between councils, "but generally outdoor saunas should be positioned with consideration for neighbouring properties and boundaries," notes Rasmus, "meaning factors such as overall height, proximity to fences and ventilation requirements may influence placement."

"There isn’t one fixed distance rule that applies in every situation, but spacing is important both practically and from a planning perspective," agrees Jake Newport.

“I also find that saunas tend to work best when they have a bit of breathing space around them," he adds. "If it’s pushed tightly into the corner of a garden, it can feel more like storage than somewhere you genuinely want to spend time.”

4. Can you put a sauna inside an outbuilding?

If you have an existing garden room (potentially with a bathroom) or outbuilding of any kind, you may be keen to expand its usability by installing a sauna inside it, but is this possible?

“Both work really well, and it often depends on how someone wants the overall space to function," says Erin Hickman, designer at Finnmark Sauna.

“A standalone sauna creates a very traditional experience because there’s that real connection with the outdoors. Stepping out into the cold air between sauna rounds is a huge part of what people enjoy about the sauna experience in the UK,” she expands.

"But, at the same time, we’re seeing far more people incorporate saunas into larger garden buildings or bespoke wellness spaces. That might be within a garden room or a more complete outdoor setup with changing areas, showers or cold therapy spaces alongside it.

“With bespoke outdoor saunas especially, there’s much more flexibility in how the sauna is designed around the space available," continues Erin. "We can adapt layouts, glazing, benching and proportions so the sauna feels fully integrated rather than something separate that’s been added afterwards.”

5. Maintenance and upkeep for garden saunas

Unlike indoor saunas, as outdoor saunas are exposed to the elements, there is naturally a bit more maintenance involved – as there would be with any outbuilding such as a garden room or even shed.

However, as is often the case, you get what you pay for, and investing in a quality product will make your investment longer-lasting.

"Built using carefully selected thermo-treated timber and traditional craftsmanship techniques, saunas from reputable companies are created to withstand changing climates while ageing beautifully over time," explains Rasmus Tipp.

"The unique three-layer timber construction of Iglucraft saunas for example is designed with air gaps and integrated insulation, to enhance thermal performance whilst creating a soft, organic texture that enriches the atmosphere inside."

Caring for the internal features of an outdoor wooden sauna is the same as an indoor one, and, again, looking after the timber and keeping the sauna properly ventilated makes a big difference over time.

“Externally, some people choose to treat the timber periodically to maintain the original colour," notes Jake Newport, "while others prefer to let it weather naturally.

“It’s also worth keeping the area around the sauna clear and checking for any signs of rodents or nesting creatures," he adds, "particularly around the base, ventilation gaps and any service entry points.”

And of course, the point of maintenance and upkeep of your outdoor sauna is the make sure it has longevity.

“A properly built sauna using durable timber and good ventilation and repeated weather-proofing should hold up extremely well outdoors for decades to come," advises Jake, "and like any outdoor structure, regular maintenance helps preserve both the appearance and performance of the sauna over time, particularly with exposure to changing weather conditions throughout the year.”

6. Cost for outdoor saunas

As an outdoor sauna is generally more sizeable and requires some structural work to install it, costs are of course more variable than an indoor cabin. But by how much?

"Our smaller barrel saunas start from around £3,300, which gives people a really authentic outdoor sauna experience without needing a huge amount of space," advises Jake Newport.

“From there, prices increase depending on the design, glazing, heater choice and how bespoke the setup becomes. Larger cabin saunas and more integrated wellness spaces tend to start from around £10,000.”

However, if you are looking for an authentic experience, the extra spend can be worth it he notes.

"A well-built sauna won’t just last better outdoors, it also changes the quality of the sauna experience itself. The quality of the heat comes down to details like insulation, airflow, timber choice and the heater itself. Those are the things that create the soft, even heat and proper löyly that Finnish saunas are known for."

Make sure you also factor in groundworks and any extension of services such as electrics when budgeting for an outdoor sauna, as it is these elements that may increase your budget unexpectedly if you haven't allowed for them upfront.

FAQs

What style of sauna should I choose for my garden?

“Choosing an outdoor sauna comes down to two things," says Erin Hickman. "How you want to use the sauna, and how it sits within the garden itself.

“For gardens with softer planting and a more natural feel, such as cottage gardens, barrel saunas work beautifully because the curved shape sits very comfortably within greenery and feels rooted in traditional Nordic sauna culture.

“In smaller or more modern gardens, cube saunas tend to work really well because the cleaner lines feel more aligned with modern landscaping," she suggests. They work particularly well in more compact gardens or contemporary outdoor spaces.

“For those wanting something more architectural in feel, cabin saunas give you much more flexibility with glazing, proportions and internal layout," continues Erin. "They also allow for more spacious layouts and longer social sauna sessions.

“Each style offers something slightly different, so it’s less about one being better than another and more about finding the sauna that feels most natural within the space and how someone wants to use it.”

What outdoor sauna designs are popular?

“Outdoors, barrel saunas remain especially popular because they’re the style many people first experience at public saunas and they have a strong connection to more traditional sauna culture," says Erin Hickman. "As sauna and cold water wellness becomes more mainstream in the UK, people are increasingly looking to recreate some of that experience at home.

“We’re also seeing more interest in creating wider wellness spaces around the sauna itself, whether that’s adding cold plunges, outdoor showers or simple areas to slow down and relax afterwards.”

Could I put an outdoor sauna inside my garage?

"Garages or garage conversions can work very well for indoor saunas, especially if they’re properly insulated and ventilated," confirms Erin Hickman.

“A lot of people like using garages because they offer more flexibility with layout, and usually make it easier to install the required electrics. They can also create a slightly more separate, retreat-like feeling away from the main part of the house," she adds.

“However, the key consideration is making sure the environment will be able to handle the moisture.”

With such a wide variety of sauna designs available, it makes them suitable for all different styles of garden. So whether you're looking at creating a secret wellness space in the corner of a garden, or including a hot tub and sauna on your patio, there's no reason why you can't put wellbeing at the centre of your garden design.

Introducing a tree to a small garden will bring many benefits. As well as being a strong focal point, trees create dappled shade, attract wildlife, and clean the air. Plus, with their ever-changing foliage, blossom and fruits, there is always something new to look at as the seasons roll around.

When considering small garden ideas, however, planting a tree might not be at the forefront of your mind. In fact, the thought may leave you feeling a little apprehensive.

Yes, some are definitely best left to bigger gardens, but if you choose carefully, there are plenty of trees which can enhance even a tiny courtyard without causing problems by getting too tall or bushy. So why not factor one in? We've rounded up the best trees for small gardens to make it easy for you to find the perfect variety for your space.

1. Olive

Olives are slow growing, reaching up to 6.5ft (2m) in 8–10 years, which makes them perfectly suited to smaller spaces. The silvery grey foliage stays intact year-round and they will thrive in a container, making them a great option if you're looking for a tree to grow in pots.

When planting, add a spade of horticultural grit to the soil to ensure good drainage. They can be 'standards' – that is, trees with a bare trunk and a shaped rounded top, or for a less formal effect, they can be left to grow irregularly.

Olive trees need a sheltered spot to survive the winter. If you live in an exposed area, or your garden is in a frost pocket, wrap them up in some horticultural fleece if freezing conditions are forecast. Between April and October, feed olive trees once a month with a tomato feed. And keep them hydrated during the summer, watering until the liquid flows from the bottom of the pot. If they start to shed their leaves, a drink of water, a light prune and some food should solve the problem.

They'll add a lovely Mediterranean garden idea to your outdoor seating space too.

2. Silver birch

It is hard to beat the pale beauty of a silver birch tree and the good news is that there are varieties which are suited to smaller gardens.

Betula utilis jacqumontii (available from Gardening Express) is a medium-sized tree with an elegant, slender shape. It will grow to approximately 23x11.5ft (7x3.5m) over 20 years. Hardy and suited to all kinds of soil and conditions, it has airy green leaves in the spring and yellowy brown catkins, then turns a glorious golden yellow in autumn. Once the leaves have fallen, the snowy white bark is revealed, which is a stunning feature in itself.

The tree is easy to care for: simply prune any dead or damaged branches in late summer to midwinter. If the bark looks grubby, it can be washed with plain water and a sponge.

Jeremy Hall, Group Plant Buyer at Squire's Garden Centres particularly recommends the 'Snow Queen' variety – it "has very pronounced white bark from an early age," and "also encourages bio-diversity as it supports an array of insects that birds love."

Silver birch trees can be planted in the ground as bare root trees between November and February, providing the ground is frost-free. Container versions can be planted at any time. Keep the area around them weed-free for the first few years.

3. Amelanchier 

These small deciduous trees, also known as Juneberry and serviceberry, have clusters of dreamy white star-shaped flowers on soft copper-coloured foliage in the spring. The leaves then turn to dramatic fiery reds and vivid orange in autumn.

Try Amelanchier lamarkii 'Ballerina', as this variety will not grow taller or spread wider than 13–16.5ft (4–5m). Or, as recommended by Squire’s Garden Centres, opt for 'Snow Flakes', which grows to a similar height. They add it is "covered in snowy white flowers in spring that are loved by bees," then "has glossy reddish purple berries which the birds adore followed by a blaze of autumn colour."

Despite the delicate blossom, these are hardy trees, which can cope with damp conditions and most soil types, although they do prefer clay or sandy soil.

4. Magnolia

The dramatic over-sized tulip-shaped blossoms in spring make the magnolia a real statement tree in your garden landscaping.

A variety such as Magnolia x soulangeana has flushed pink flowers. The neat, rounded shape means that it suits smaller spaces, and it will make a splash if you're looking for new front garden ideas. Expect it to grow to about 20ft (6m) tall with a spread of 13ft (4m) over 20 years.

These trees need full sun or partial shade and moist conditions. Avoid exposed areas, as a frost can ruin the display of blossom, turning the pretty petals brown. When planting, water well for the first few months, and during any dry spells in summer. A rabbit guard might be necessary if you live somewhere rural.

5. Crab apple

A compact crab apple tree can light up a small garden. In spring, it has beautiful clouds of pretty blossom. In autumn, it produces a profusion of tiny, richly coloured fruits, in shades of scarlet, yellow, gold and red and it has attractively coloured leaves, too.

The height of these trees can vary widely, so check carefully before you buy. Smaller ones include malus 'Butterball' and 'Wisley Crab' which can reach a height of around 13ft (4m). Malus x zumi is a pretty rounded tree with golden fruit.

Plant them in a sunny site, in moist but not wet soil. In winter, remove any damaged branches, or ones that cross over each other. A good budget small garden idea is to plant a less expensive bare root variety between November to March, while container grown trees can go in at any time.

6. Acer

If you love a riot of autumn colour, then an acer is a must. Perfect for Japanese garden ideas, they will introduce a pop of blazing orange, red, or a rich pink, and once the gorgeous leaves have fallen, many have ornamental bark which makes a lovely feature.

There are many different types to choose from, but Acer palmatum 'Orange Dream' is a good choice as it is a dense, small tree which grows to 13ft (4m) tall over 20 years. Acers prefer partial shade – the sun can scorch their leaves – and they will grow happily in containers or in the ground.

For pot grown trees, use ericaceous compost to plant them in, as this ensures a more vibrant foliage colour. Avoid banking up the soil in a volcano effect around the bough, as this may encourage disease. Acers rarely need pruning, making them perfect for low-maintenance gardens.

7. Ornamental cherry

A confetti of pink or white petals in spring is the hallmark of cherry trees, and there are some very pretty smaller varieties which suit a compact space, including courtyard gardens.

Try Prunus yedoensis for its weeping branches and romantic white almond-scented blossom which is loved by bees and butterflies. It will reach around 10ft (3m) tall in 10 years. Another option is the cherry 'Pink Shell' (available from Crocus) which has pastel pink flowers which turn to white in April, contrasting beautifully with its light green leaves. And, it won't grow beyond 11.5ft (3.5m).

Ornamental cherry trees prefer full sun and moist, well-drained soil of any type. Once established, they are very low maintenance. The most difficult decision is choosing which variety to go for!

8. Chinese dogwood

Known for their show-stopping displays of flowers in June, the Chinese dogwood – or Cornus kousa – delivers throughout the seasons, with pretty autumnal foliage and an unusual pink fruit shaped like a strawberry.

Not every variety is suitable for a limited space, so check carefully before buying. For tiny gardens, a dwarf dogwood, such as Cornus kousa 'Angyo Dwarf' will only reach 4–5ft (1.2–1.5m) tall, but other varieties can grow as tall as 26ft (8m). These trees need full sun or partial shade, and they prefer a moist, free-draining neutral to acid soil.

9. Rowan

Rowan trees, otherwise known as mountain ash, will give good height and privacy – perfect if you're on the lookout for garden screening ideas.

With their clusters of berries in autumn, they're ideal for attracting birds. Try the Sorbus vilmorinii variety, which has froths of summertime blossom, followed by pinkish berries which fade to white as fall turns into winter. It will eventually grow to 13x13ft (4x4m).

10. Hawthorn

Commonly seen in hedgerows in the English countryside, the tree-forming variety of hawthorn makes a beautiful addition to a garden and will welcome in wildlife.

The RHS suggests Crataegus persimilis ‘Prunifolia’ due to its compact growth, dark and glossy foliage, and white flowers followed by crimson berries and fall colour. It will grow to a height of 16.5ft (5m).

What's more, it's a hardy tree, and will grow well in all kinds of conditions including exposed and damp sites.

11. Cotoneaster

Whilst some varieties of cotoneaster are shrub-like in form, cotoneaster 'Hybridus Pendulus' is a weeping small tree, with elegant branches that form a dome shape.

Plus, it's evergreen, so the glossy, deep green leaves will offer interest and colour to your garden all year round. It grows to an ultimate height of around 6.5ft (2m) after 20 years and can even be grown in a pot.

With an abundance of red berries, it's a good option if you want to attract birds to your garden.

FAQs

What is the best evergreen tree for a small garden?

Looking for a small tree that will add a boost of greenery to your garden come winter? Try these evergreen varieties:

• If you like a more formal look, then evergreen topiary makes a great choice for small gardens. Try bay, holly, or Portuguese laurel. 'The shapes can be so versatile and different,' says Chris Bonnett of GardeningExpress.co.uk. 'These trees are also great in pairs for placing either side of a patio, a path or a set of stairs.'
• The RHS suggests Photinia x fraseri 'Red Robin', which grows to 13–16ft (4–5m) and has glossy red leaves and white blooms.
• Cotoneaster 'Hybridus Pendulus', as mentioned above is another lovely evergreen choice. For variegated leaves, try the semi-evergreen 'Juliette'.

What's the best way to plant a small tree?

1. Water the tree first in the container you bought it in.
2. Dig a square-shaped hole that is twice as large as the tree's rootball and soil. It is important that the hole is deep and wide enough for the tree's roots to spread out.
3. Put a 20 litre bag of John Innes No.3 compost into the hole and work it into the soil.
4. Release the tree from its pot, taking great care not to damage the roots. Place it in the planting hole.
5. Refill the hole, making sure that the tree is planted the same depth as it was in its pot.
6. Press the soil around the tree down firmly.
7. Water around the tree with a full can. Keep the tree well-watered, until it is firmly established.

Container grown-trees can be planted year round, but it's best to avoid doing this when it's particularly hot in summer as they will require lots of watering to ensure they become well established. A good garden irrigation system can help with this.

For bare root varieties, October and November are the ideal months for planting. The temperature and level of moisture in the soil at this time are optimum for encouraging roots to establish and regenerate. This is also the time when bare root varieties are typically available from garden centres and nurseries, offering a wide choice and lower prices than mature pot-grown trees.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Caring for hydrangeas in pots is simple and a great way to add stunning colour and structure to a patio or deck. And they complement all types of garden styles – from cottage gardens to modern plots.

If you're already up to speed on how to grow hydrangeas, you'll know that these plants thrive in organically rich soil that doesn't dry out in summer. For this reason, they are generally happiest planted directly into the ground, as containers can dry out much quicker.

However, that doesn't mean to say you can't still create a beautiful container display with these blooms. You just need to ensure that you give them the right care, pick your compost carefully, and position them in the right place. Some varieties are more suitable for these conditions too. Our guide explains all you need to know about caring for hydrangeas in pots.

Where should you position a potted hydrangea in your garden?

Whether you're growing hydrangeas in pots or planting them straight into the ground as part of your garden landscaping ideas, they do best in dappled shade. For that reason, avoid placing your potted hydrangea in a south-facing position that gets lots of sun all day.

If you don't have these conditions in your garden, try to place your potted hydrangea somewhere that gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon – this will help prevent the soil from drying out.

The beauty of growing a hydrangea in a pot, however, is that it's easy to move it a different spot in your garden. If it's not thriving in its current position, look for a shadier spot elsewhere on your patio or garden path.

What compost should you use when caring for hydrangeas in pots?

"The best potting compost for shrubby plants is one with a high proportion of loam, such as John Innes No.3," says prominent garden expert John Negus, a regular writer for Amateur Gardening.

For hydrangeas, the RHS recommends using a mix of two parts of John Innes No.3 (available at Amazon) and one-part peat-free multipurpose compost. Alternatively, if you are growing blue hydrangeas and want to keep their colour vibrant, use an ericaceous compost, such as this John Innes ericaceous compost from Amazon.

However, "even the best multi-purpose composts only have enough nutrients for four–six weeks of growth, and once this is exhausted, plants will need supplementary feeding, either with a liquid or by top-dressing with controlled-release fertiliser," says John. Feed with a liquid from early summer until the end of flowering or top-dress in early summer.

"Loam-based composts hold on to moisture better than peat-based ones," continues John. "But, all potted plants need watering regularly, unless it rains a lot every day, 
as their roots are constrained and their compost is covered by foliage."

How do you repot a hydrangea?

To keep them healthy, hydrangeas will need repotting when they outgrow their pot. This tends to be every one or two years.

To do so, carefully remove yours from its existing container in autumn, once it has finished flowering. Choose a new garden planter that is around an inch or so wider in diameter than the old container, ensuring it has drainage holes, and plant it at the same depth as previously.

Do you need to prune a potted hydrangea?

Pruning hydrangeas is important to keep them flowering well. This is the case wherever they are planted – pots included.

It's generally best to approach this garden job in spring. The correct method varies according to which species of hydrangea you have.

"For the popular mopheads and lacecaps, the flowering shoots grow from wood produced during the previous season, and it is important that this is not removed," says John Negus. "In mid-spring remove the dead flower heads, cutting back to the nearest pair of large, healthy buds."

What are the best types of hydrangea to grow in pots?

Whether you're looking to add potted hydrangeas to a cottage garden patio or want to introduce more blooms to a front garden, there are many compact varieties that are suited to growing in containers.

The RHS recommends Hydrangea macrophylla 'Red Hot Violet' – which has bold deep-pink blooms – and 'Altona' (available from Crocus). Hydrangea macrophylla 'Fireworks', meanwhile, is a pretty lacecap variety with white, star-shaped florets, that also does well in pots.

Hydrangea paniculata 'Little Lime' (available from Dobies) is another lovely choice when growing hydrangeas in pots. It's a smaller version of the popular 'Limelight' that's perfect for small gardens.

Can you plant a potted hydrangea out into a border?

It's simple to plant your hydrangea into a flower bed or border if you decide to switch up the display.

Plant it somewhere where the soil is rich, fertile, free-draining, and easy to work, says John. "If possible, choose a lightly shaded spot where the soil stays moist in summer. Ideally, before planting, work in moisture-retentive well-rotted garden compost or old, crumbly manure.

"After tapping the root ball from its pot, tease out matted and encircling roots and set the plant in a hole three times the width of the root ball."

Water copiously after planting and for several weeks thereafter to help the plant re-establish well. Then, monthly, from mid-spring to early autumn, sprinkle the root area with fish, blood and bone meal (such as this Vitax Blood, Fish & Bone organic fertiliser from Amazon) and gently work it into the soil. Water it in if the ground is dry.

Should you protect potted hydrangeas in winter?

In winter, keep your potted hydrangeas in a sheltered part of the garden and drape them with fleece if sub-zero temperatures are forecast, advises John Negus. Remove fleece when the temperature rises. It is also a good idea to leave the old flower heads on over winter to protect the buds underneath.

"In mid-spring, move them away from the shelter and into the wider garden," he continues. When the soil temperature begins to rise, feed them with a balanced fertiliser.

Growing hydrangeas in pots is a brilliant way to introduce more flowers to your garden, especially as they will provide a long period of blooms from summer through to autumn. They don't require masses of attention, either, so are a good option if you're a fan of low-maintenance gardens.

Just remember to keep an eye on your potted hydrangeas and ensure they are well-watered, especially in their first year and during hot weather, to ensure the soil doesn't dry out too quickly.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Abbie and Matthew Newton knew they needed more space in their home, but after finding out the cost of an extension, decided to get creative with an unexpected solution: converting an old shipping container into a garden office.

With a fascination for tiny homes and previous experience renovating a van into a camper, they knew that “smaller spaces could still pack a punch” and had a vision to transform the container with a rustic countryside twist, styled with a Mediterranean outdoor feel.

Since the couple both work in the creative industries, it was essential for the container to become a multifunctional and imaginative space. It is now home to Abbie’s photography studio, Matthew’s DJ decks, as well as their shared computer setup.

When it came to deciding whether to go ahead with the idea for their unusual garden office, natural lighting was a “make or break” factor, which is why they placed it exactly where the sun hits, which Abbie says is “glorious when the sunset floods in.”

The conversion journey

Juggling work, parenting, as well as a nasty spell of bad weather, the conversion took around a year to complete, and the couple are now adding the finishing touches, including finding suitable wall storage to maximise the space.

Since the unit falls within the permitted development size and height rules, and isn't being used as a separate living space, the couple didn't need to obtain planning permission, which was another win.

When the shipping container arrived, the first steps were to insulate and board it up – which they hired a professional to do – and then add electricity. Luckily, their friend was able to help them out, kindly offering them a mates' rate.

“The container fitted in perfectly with the garden and we painted it black to match our neighbours' black barn behind it. It feels like it’s blended in with the surrounding farm buildings and countryside so well," Abbie says.

Since the original doors were "extremely heavy" to open, the couple decided to swap them out for stylish black French doors, which they bought from Leader Online, having previously used the company for their home's internal doors. This also helped the space feel "less like a container and more like a room".

Creating the interior space

Having converted a small space previously, the couple knew how important it would be to get the layout and storage right. They have kitted the container out with a large desk with plenty of drawers, as well as boxes for Abbie’s photography props. There is even a secret storage space hidden behind a curtain at the back.

When it came to designing the interior, the walls and ceilings needed to be a neutral shade to function as Abbie's photography studio backdrop. With that in mind, they opted for Little Greene's 'Slaked Lime Mid', a creamy white, and 'Olive Colour', a darker shade that "emulates the colour of nature that surrounds our countryside property".

This creative space features a built-in storage idea for Matthew's DJ decks and vinyl records, inspired by old-school speakeasy bars and the English countryside, which the couple agree is their favourite part about the whole project.

"My husband sketched out the unit, focusing the storage on the size of a vinyl record, and making sure his DJ decks were flush with the top. He then used moisture-resistant 18mm MDF to build it, and sunk the decks into the top. He covered it with foam and a lovely thick tapestry fabric," Abbie explains.

"He then planed oak to make the slats, which he varnished and attached to the front of the unit to create depth and dimension. We painted it in 'Olive Colour' by Little Greene."

“It’s a beautiful place to work and is great for photography if I ever want to play with natural light,” she says. “Plus, the double patio doors let us take in the countryside views that made us buy this property.”

“The best thing about a renovation journey is being able to put your own stamp on all parts of your home and garden. Using a container as a starting point has allowed us to do that while being cheaper than buying a large garden office or going ahead with a loft conversion or extension," Abbie concludes.

For more ideas and inspiration, browse through these beautiful budget garden ideas or these house extension alternatives.

Find out how to grow hydrangeas, and these Insta-friendly delights will charm you with a long-lasting display in your garden design.

These beautiful blooms come in every hue imaginable, ranging from bubblegum pink and zingy lime to softer shades of delicate blush pink and milky white. Then, in autumn, the papery leaves fade into soft vintage tones tinged with bronze and gold.

From where to plant them to the best fertiliser, here's everything you need to know about growing and caring for hydrangeas.

How do I grow hydrangeas?

If you're looking to grow hydrangeas in your garden, follow these top tips recommended by Nigel Lawton, Plant Buyer at Dobies Garden Centres.

• The best time to plant hydrangeas in your garden landscaping is during spring or autumn when the soil is warm and moist. Although summer planting is possible, it requires more frequent watering to prevent them drying out.
• Keeping the soil consistently damp is especially important during the first growing season while the plant establishes itself.
• Applying an annual mulch of compost, leaf mould or well-rotted manure in spring helps retain moisture and provides nutrients to support healthy growth.

How do I care for hydrangeas?

While hydrangeas are pretty robust and self-supporting, there are some things to keep in mind when it comes to caring for them, according to Chris Wood, Head Florist at Waitrose Gardens:

• Water them regularly: Hydrangeas are "notoriously thirsty", so ensure you're watering plants at least three to four times per week in sunny weather and do so from the base, rather than sprinkling it on the leaves. Keep an eye on the moisture levels to ensure the plant doesn't dry out.
• Light: "Hydrangeas prefer partial shade rather than direct sunlight. They tend to thrive in a location that is not too sunny or shaded, so definitely avoid a south-facing position in the garden."
• Soil: Ensure the soil is rich, moist and free-draining.
• Fertiliser: "Apply a balanced slow-release fertiliser in early spring, but avoid a high nitrogen-based fertiliser which would encourage leaf growth rather than blooms. It's best to use one which includes added magnesium and iron, which helps promote strong plant growth and a vibrant flower colour."
• Mulching: To reduce moisture loss, apply organic matter on a regular basis – especially in hot weather.
• Soil preparation: "Cultivars with blue flowers will remain blue when they are grown in more acidic soil ( PH 4.5-5). To enhance red and pink colours, apply dressing containing ground limestone or chalk during winter. White and green hydrangea will remain white and green regardless of the soil PH."

What type of hydrangea should I grow?

There’s a type of hydrangea for every garden. The mop-head and lace-cap varieties are what most people think of when it comes to choosing a hydrangea. In varying shades of blue and pink, according to your soil type, these pretty shrubs covered in saucer-sized blooms tend to be the go-to.

But recently, more modern takes have become fashionable in current garden trends. ‘Annabelle’ is one variety having a moment – its graceful, arching branches are covered with luminous white pompom blooms that look just like snowballs. It’s the perfect choice if you want to add a touch of luxury to your garden with a froth of flowers.

"Hydrangea paniculata is another favourite, recognised for its large cone-shaped flower heads in soft shades of white, cream and pink," adds Nigel Lawton.

You can also get a greater choice of compact and mini varieties now, which are perfect for containers and add a contemporary note to balcony and patio ideas, especially when clipped into shape. Some even have honey- or jasmine-like scented flowers.

Where to buy hydrangeas

Where do I plant hydrangeas?

Hydrangeas can grow in shade, but as Nigel Lawton explains, "they do best in moist, free-draining soil and dappled shade, not too sunny and not too shady."

"It’s best to avoid south-facing spots, especially if the soil is very dry, as too much direct sunlight can lead to wilting and scorched flowers," he adds. "While they thrive in partial shade, they can tolerate more sun if the soil is kept consistently moist.”

If it’s too late and yours is already planted in a sun trap, cover it with an umbrella during hot spells to offer temporary relief from the sun. Alternatively, if it’s in a container, move it into the shade when the temperature soars.

How do I get my hydrangeas to flower?

Lack of blooms on your hydrangeas can be down to a few things. Most types of hydrangea flower on ‘old wood’ (the branches that produced flowers previously). Freezing weather can damage new buds, leading to a lack of flowers.

If you have a hydrangea that won’t flower, you may have pruned it back too hard the year before. Often, hydrangeas that aren’t producing flowers have been pruned in early summer and late winter.

If they are over pruned, you can end up waiting a whole year before they flower again. To avoid this, prune back stems in early spring, just before new growth emerges. If in doubt, always check the pruning info for the variety you're growing.

Alternatively, it could be down to soil, as hydrangeas need phosphorus to flower. Adding bone meal (available on Amazon) is a great way to increase phosphorus levels in the soil.

For vibrant flowers and healthy growth, treat your plant regularly with a hydrangea feed (such as this Vitax feed from Amazon) that's specially formulated for the job. If your hydrangea is planted in a pot, you'll need to do this once a week in spring and summer when it's packing on growth.

Do hydrangreas grow well in pots?

There are more and more varieties of hydrangeas being sold specifically for growing in containers, so they can be a good choice for your garden planter ideas. Small, compact varieties, such as ‘Little Lime’, will do well and can be clipped into a lollipop standard shape.

Choose a decent sized pot to allow for growth and use a good quality potting mix that's two parts John Innes No 3 (available on Amazon) and one-part peat-free multipurpose compost (available at Wickes). Water in well.

An organic mulch will help to retain moisture as your plant settles into its new home. Water and feed regularly throughout spring and summer.

Do hydrangeas come back every year?

Hydrangeas are reliable shrubs you can count on each year, making them a good choice for a low-maintenance garden.

However, growing them in very dry soil and full sun can cause their leaves to scorch and may result in a lack of flowers. The new spring growth is prone to frost damage, so if this happens, prune back damaged shoots to just above the first healthy pair of buds.

But generally, they return every season to delight you again and again.

"Whether planted in borders, containers or as part of a shaded garden scheme, hydrangeas can make a real statement throughout summer and into autumn," concludes Nigel Lawton.

Looking for more ways to transform your garden? Learn about these hassle-free types of ornamental grasses or browse these herb garden ideas.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

The best trees to grow in pots create an instant focal point in the garden. Placed on a patio as a feature, used to frame a path, or positioned to create shade or privacy, there is a suitable tree for every situation. Some will offer frothy blossom in spring, others are prized for their colourful autumn foliage, while evergreens are quietly reliable performers all year round.

Unlike some smaller plants in pots, once they are established container-planted trees will look after themselves, although watering will often be needed to keep them happy and healthy. If you are tight for space in your garden landscaping ideas, and think any kind of tree might be too big, consider under-planting, that is using the soil underneath the tree to plant flowers (lavender under a standard olive tree is a classic combination).

Check our pick of the best trees to grow in pots to find the right one to suit your garden style.

1. Acer (Japanese Maple)

With delicately shaped leaves, elegant form and stunning autumn foliage in shades of red, orange, yellow and plum, acers, also called Japanese maples, are top of our list of the best trees to grow in pots. They drop their leaves in winter, but the patterned trunks create interest all year round.

Choose acer atropupureum for trees with red or purple leaves, and acer dissectum for fresh green foliage (both available via Gardening Express). Water regularly during spring and late summer.

For best results with growing acers, make sure you grow them in a sheltered spot in sun or part shade, and keep away from drying winds. Pruning is not usually needed, and in fact it might spoil the naturally graceful shape of these stunning trees. They're also the perfect tree to grow if you're inspired by Japanese garden ideas.

2. Bay trees

Evergreen, with glossy leaves, bay trees look attractive year-round and are a great choice for low maintenance garden ideas. They will do well in pots with well-drained soil-based compost.

Add some control release fertiliser pellets or liquid feed about every two weeks in mid-spring to late summer. For standard lollipop-shaped bay trees, prune and shape the foliage in the summer – having a good set of secateurs to hand will help with this. As a rule, bay trees need repotting every two to three years.

Shop for planting trees in pots

3. Olive trees

Elegant and timeless, an olive tree brings instant Mediterranean garden ideas to your plot. They are evergreen, so year-round interest is guaranteed. Olives are easy to grow but they do not like harsh winters. If you're wondering how to protect plants from frost, one of the easiest ways is to cover them horticultural fleece if the temperature looks set to drop below -10˚C. By doing this, they will be protected from damage.

Grow olives in a warm, sunny site. They are drought-tolerant, but you will still need to add the task of watering plants to your gardening to-do list around once a week. Feed in spring with a granular general fertiliser.

4. Amelanchier

With clusters of white star-shaped flowers on copper coloured foliage, this is one of the best trees to grow in pots if you want a striking display in spring. The flowers are followed by small, pinkish berries.

Amelanchier is compact and slim, but will still need a large pot to thrive. Choose a smaller variety, such as Amelanchier Lamarkii ‘Ballerina' (available from Dobies), which should not grow taller than 4-5m. These trees prefer acid soil so plant them in ericaceous compost.

5. Sophora microphylla ‘Sun King’

For something exotic for the best trees to grow in pots, this is a good choice. Also known as the Japanese Pagoda tree, this has small evergreen leaves on long leafy stems, and generously thick clusters of bright yellow bell-shaped flowers from late winter to early spring.

Despite the flamboyant, almost tropical appearance of the blooms, it is hardy down to -10˚C. Place the pot in a sunny, sheltered spot for best results and find out which other plants grow well in sunny spots to place alongside it.

Sophora microphylla ‘Sun King’ is available from Gardening Express.

6. Witch Hazel 

The unusual spidery flowers in yellow, marmalade orange and plum red appear before the leaves on this multi-stemmed tree, and they glow like coals in midwinter and very early spring when everything else in the garden is brown and dull.

In a container, witch hazel grow slowly, at around 10cm a year, so they are ideal for small garden ideas. They do best in sun or part shade, and there’s no need to prune them.

Hamamelis × intermedia 'Jelena' (available from Crocus) is an an award-winning cultivated variety.

7. Japanese Holly Tree

Also known as ‘ilex crenata' these trees are often sold clipped into a lollipop shape, adding a touch of formality to the garden. They can also be pruned into striking cloud shapes.

Japanese holly is evergreen, with dark, glossy leaves and they will need shaping with sharp secateurs twice a year in May and September. Plant in John Innes No 3 from B&Q and keep the compost moist at all times.

These little trees do well in pots in sun or part shade, but do protect them with fleece if a cold snap is forecast.

8. Ornamental Cherry

Not all flowering cherry trees suit container growing, but there are plenty that do, and they will create a wonderful feature in the spring, garlanded with pretty pink or white flowers.

Try Prunus ‘Snowgoose' (available from Gardening Express) – it's an upright tree which is good for containers and would work well as part of your patio ideas. Another option is ‘Little Pink Perfection,’ a dwarf variety which is ideal for pots.

When planting, add a layer of gravel to the tub for good drainage. Place in full sun or part shade and keep moist, but not soggy. Once established, they need very little attention.

9. Sambucus nigra ‘Black Lace’

For a shot of drama, the almost-black dissected foliage and flat topped creamy pink flowers of this large shrub/small tree make this a must for the best trees to grow in pots.

Sambucus nigra ‘Black Lace’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) will need a large container, at least 60cm in diameter, and just as deep. Place in full or partial sun to retain the deep colour of the foliage.

It’s a fast grower, but it can be pruned to keep it under control. Place near flowers with yellow or golden leaves for a lovely contrast in your cottage garden patio ideas.

10. Italian Cypress

Probably one of the easiest of the best trees to grow in pots, these pencil slim conifers are tough and hardy. Use their architectural shape to frame either side of a gate, porch, or to define a zone in the garden.

They are drought-tolerant, but container-grown ones will need regular watering. Remove any cones that appear as these can pull the foliage apart and spoil the elegant shape.

You can buy a pair of Italian Cypress trees from Gardening Direct that are perfect for growing in pots.

FAQs

How to choose which trees to grow in pots?

Not all trees are right for container growing. Many varieties are simply too big to be confined to your garden planter ideas. It is very important to choose a slow growing or a dwarf type, which is also suitable for your chosen site and situation.

There are a few simple rules to ensure success when picking the best trees to grow in pots. Always choose a large container, with room for the tree to grow (but not too big as it is best to pot trees on in gradual stages every 2-4 years).

Like most container gardening ideas, you will need to bear in mind that trees in pots will dry out more quickly than those planted in the ground, so they will need to be watered regularly in the warmer months. They will also need to be fed, to replace vital nutrients in the soil.

Finally, select a tree that fits with your garden style. Acers create a Zen-like feel, lollipop-shaped bay works in a classic, elegant space, and an olive tree is perfect for a Mediterranean look.

How do I plant a tree in a pot?

Squires Garden Centres offer the following advice on planting the best trees to grow in pots:

1. Choose a container with plenty of room to house the root ball, including space to grow
2. Choose a loam-based compost, such as John Innes No 3 from Amazon, which is designed for long term growing
3. Water the tree regularly
4. Use a slow release fertiliser every spring to boost growth
5. Some trees may need a stake to hold them upright. Staking kits are available to buy from garden centres

How do you know if a tree needs repotting? 

One of the biggest container gardening mistakes is to keep your tree in a pot that has become too small for it. Trees which are not happy can show signs of stress through yellowing leaves, leaf drop and die-back. If this happens, it might be time for a new container.

Loosen the edges of the soil, then carefully remove the tree from its pot, including the entire rootball. Replant in a bigger pot with fresh compost. You will need to keep the tree watered regularly as it re-establishes.

Do you need to feed a tree in a pot? 

Even the best trees to grow in pots will need extra nutrients. According to the RHS advice, refresh the compost each spring by scraping off about 5cm of compost and replacing it with fresh. Mix in some control release fertiliser granules, or alternatively, use a liquid feed regularly during the growing season.

Now you've learned about the best trees to grow in pots, why not add some more interest to your garden by building raised garden beds and starting your own vegetable garden too? Our guide has lots of tips to get you started.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

While No Mow May is an annual trend we're all encouraged to do each year, is it always the best idea? Although the benefits to flora and fauna are well documented, is it a similar concept to the well-known advert that tells us 'a dog is not just for Christmas?'

Could No Mow May in fact be risky to wildlife if we start again with a freshly cut lawn at the start of June? And are we missing the message of what No Mow May is actually about?

We share 5 ways you can embrace No Mow May, and explain why thinking about extending it past May could be a better approach.

What is No Mow May?

The idea of the No Mow May movement focuses on asking the millions of homeowners with gardens in the UK to think about ditching their lawnmower in May, in order to embrace a wilder approach to gardening.

However, what's often missed, is the the fact that Plantlife, the conservation charity who launched the movement in 2019, encourage gardeners to extend the approach throughout the summer as well. It's about less is more, so even if you only leave a small patch to grow free throughout the summer, this will be more beneficial than nothing at all.

As the website clearly states: "No Mow May is the perfect starting point for summer. You don’t have to leave the whole thing long, in fact, leaving a mix of grass lengths in your lawn from No Mow May and beyond means you’re giving nature the boost it deserves. From No Mow May, carry on the No Mow Movement, through Let it Bloom June and beyond, to manage your lawn for nature all year round."

It's something that James Ewans, gardening and wildlife expert at Green Feathers supports too.

“No Mow May is a brilliant initiative, and a fantastic way to get people thinking differently when it comes to their garden design. However, it’s important that people see the movement as a starting point, rather than a one-month solution," he agrees.

"The real way to have a positive impact on wildlife comes from creating year-round habits, not a sudden change in May followed by a complete chop in June – which can actually disrupt nesting insects, tiny mammals and overwintering species."

5 ways to make No Mow May a long-term approach

1. For larger gardens, create a mini meadow

If space is not an issue, then designing and nurturing a fully eco-friendly garden is obviously the best way to ensure the philosophy behind not mowing in May extends year round.

“If you have the space available, leave a section of your lawn to grow long and wild all year round," suggests James Ewans, adding how you can also go the extra mile by introducing native wildflowers. "This can make a huge difference by providing nectar for pollinators and shelter for small creatures and insects throughout the year," he explains.

2. Consider 'wild corners' if space is limited

If small garden ideas are your only outlet, then this doesn't mean you can't adopt a nature-inspired approach too, says James, as even small unmown sections of lawn can provide a home for wildlife.

“Even if you’re a little limited on space, you can create a tucked away-patch and leave it to get slightly overgrown with native grasses and plants or nettles," he suggests. "These areas become vital refuges for insects such as beetles and butterflies, especially as temperatures start to drop in autumn."

It could even be the starting point for transforming your outdoor space into a charming cottage garden idea.

3. Create wild planters and pots

When your outdoor space only comprises hard landscaping, such as patios or decking, you can still find ways to make your garden a haven for wildlife.

"If you’ve got a patio with garden planters, or your garden is rather pot-heavy, you can try planting pollinator-friendly plants like lavender, thyme, and marigolds to provide rich sources of nectar through the summer months," suggests James.

Create wildlife friendly planters or borders

4. Don't rush to clear up fallen seed heads and leaves

Although we're not advocating a completely unkempt garden, removing certain natural debris can reduce the opportunities available to small insects in your garden, warns James Ewans.

“It may be tough, but resist the urge to tidy everything up," he says. "Seed heads can be important sources of food in autumn and winter, while leaf litter provides much-needed shelter for insects and invertebrates.”

5. Mow smarter, not harder

From the moment you make the first cut of the year, through to the point at which it's time to stop cutting your grass, changing your viewpoint on how your lawn should look can be an easy way to make no mow may last longer.

“Rather than chopping back your entire lawn as soon as the calendar flips over to June, try a rotational mowing approach, where you leave different sections longer at different times so wildlife always has somewhere to retreat," suggests James

Experts at British Garden Centres also suggest leaving the strip of grass along a fence or wall untouched. While it may only be a thin margin, it's useful to wildlife because it's sheltered and undisturbed. Hedgehogs, ground beetles and solitary bees all use them making your mowing easier, and their life better.

How to tackle the first lawn cut in June

If, however, you do want to get the mower back out in June, then be sure to check you aren't going to harm any wildlife before you start.

“If you do decide to take part in No Mow May, the key before revving your engines in June is to go slowly and perform a few checks. Long and unkempt grass can quickly become home to beetles, ground-nesting insects, and frogs – so try to clear critters before you mow," says James Ewans.

Going straight back to a short cut in June can stress the lawn and disturb anything living in it, agree the experts at British Garden Centres, suggesting that homeowners drop the mower height gradually over a couple of cuts, rather than taking it all off at once.

Or, you could even start with just a garden path mown through the middle, as this will give children and dogs somewhere to run without flattening the rest of the meadow-like lawn.

But if a full cut is your preferred option, James suggests the following approach.

“Go in stages – starting from one edge of your garden and moving across, over a series of different days will give wildlife time to make a move, as opposed to a full cut in a single day," he advises. "And, take the time to inspect for any visible insect or small mammal activity before you start on each new section."

For more ways of making your garden more wildlife-friendly, check out ways to attract birds to your garden, and make sure that once the winter arrives, you understand the rules and regulations about disturbing protected wildlife species in your garden.

You can never have enough herb garden ideas in your plot, whether that's a collection of small pots grouped together or a large planter brimming with your pick of favourites. As well as a pretty display and gorgeous scent it means you will also have a daily supply of fresh herbs to hand for cooking with.

Once you get your herb garden up and running you will end up with a collection that will last for years, and with flowering and aromatic herbs a magnet for pollinating insects too, it will benefit your garden all round, especially if you're growing vegetables.

And, even if space is tight in your garden landscaping ideas, a herb garden is still possible. With options ranging from vertical garden walls to simple, upcycled containers it's a garden feature that's accessible to anyone.

1. Build a beautiful display with repurposed containers

This display is full of life and colour and would make a gorgeous addition to a relaxed, bohemian-inspired scheme. And if you're after cottage garden ideas, it ticks that box, too.

Part of its charm is all down to the mix of rustic planters used – from metal buckets to a vintage watering can. Such containers can often be picked up for cheap at secondhand stores or online marketplaces – or you may even have them tucked away at the back of your shed. Just ensure you give them a good clean and dry before using, to keep your herbs healthy and happy.

When arranged together across different levels, the result is stunning. We particularly love the addition of nasturtiums here too, with their bright orange blooms.

2. Label your herbs with DIY signs

Not only are plant labels useful, but they can also add a pretty touch to your displays. And it's easy to make your own with a bit of exterior paint and a touch of creativity.

You could use small, sawn-off pieces of log, or offcuts of timber attached to sturdy twigs pushed into the soil. Or how about decorating large pebbles and nestling them beneath each plant? Wooden spoons are also a thrifty option.

Or, perhaps you want to paint your signs when painting your garden fences, in which case make sure you know the best fence paints for the ultimate results.

As an alternative, this pack of 50 Plant Labels from Amazon are bio-degradable so will still tick the eco-friendly box.

3. Incorporate potted herbs into your outdoor kitchen

Have you invested in an outdoor kitchen? Or, perhaps you're in the midst of planning one. Whether you're going for a simple setup with just the essentials, or a sleek layout with all the latest mod cons, potted herbs make a welcome addition to any outdoor cooking space. Picked fresh, they're a great way to elevate your grilled goodies.

Arrange them along the back of countertops in matching containers for a contemporary look. Or, to make more space for food prep, use shelves up high to your advantage. Just ensure they're close enough to be within arm's reach, so you can give your cooking an easy flavour boost.

Start your herb garden

4. Surround a seating area with fragrant herbs

Up the sensory appeal of your cottage garden patio ideas by surrounding a bench or bistro set with herbs.

Tall varieties, such as fennel and borage, can be used as a soft screen to cocoon the zone and up the sense of privacy. Oregano, chives, rosemary and thyme make other lovely choices for planting nearby, with their pretty blooms in purple hues. And the best part is, you can enjoy the delicious fragrance as you enjoy the view.

For even more whimsical charm, consider adding an archway over your seat – it'll make the perfect base for a climbing rose.

5. Repurpose glass jars to pep up your fence or wall

If you need small garden ideas for your herb patch, thinking vertically can open the door to plenty of options.

An easy craft project like this which uses recycled jars and leftover wood, is good for the environment, too. Plus, it's a great way to add interest to a blank wall. To make it, you'll need some hose clamps, such as this 4 pack of adjustable stainless steel ones from Amazon, some screws to secure them, washed-out glass jars, a piece of board, and a hook for hanging it up. You could even use leftover decking – wood or composite – to achieve this.

You could always spray paint the exterior of the jars too – perhaps in a bright white for a Scandi-chic aesthetic, or for a touch of luxe, a cool copper.

6. Pack a pretty planter with your favorite herbs

Not got much space? You can still enjoy show-stopping herb garden ideas on a smaller scale by planting up a gorgeous container with your favourite varieties.

Firstly, choose a garden planter to suit your scheme – whether that's a ceramic beauty like this bumblebee design, a contemporary corten steel look, or something else entirely. Then, when it comes to planting, the trick is to choose a mixture of heights, textures and colours and arrange them so you can see each one clearly.

7. Fill a hanging basket

Hanging basket ideas work well in any space and are particularly good for balconies and terraces where there tends to be an expanse of wall to hang things from.

A traditional style of hanging basket will hold enough compost for you to grow a good collection of herbs. This one has a lovely mix of parsley, marjoram, sage, thyme and mint to cover all your basic herb requirements.

It's important to keep the compost moist and you will need to water them every day in hot weather. But make sure the soil does not become waterlogged by adding slits to the plastic liner so excess water can drain out. That way, your hanging herbs will be happy with their growing space.

If you want herbs that cascade over the edges of the basket, choose trailing forms. Thyme, tarragon, oregano and sage work well.

8. Plant a vertical herb garden

Herbs are a good choice for vertical planting as they like it dry – you don't need to water them as much as flowers and vegetables. Plants that need more water are likely to do better near the base of a planter like this, where they can receive extra run-off from the plants above.

The best herbs to grow in a vertical planter tend to be smaller plants with a minimal root system, since they weigh less and require less soil. But it very much depends on the size of your vertical garden.

Wall planting bags such as this pack of 2 from Amazon can be a great starting point if you're just starting out with a herb garden. Take care with some herbs however, such as mint, as it can take over. Grow it in a separate pocket planter to avoid it becoming invasive.

9. Make an easy trellis display

Whether you're looking for garden screening ideas, or simply want to cover a blank wall with a garden trellis, using one for your herb garden ideas is one of the easiest options around.

Trellis is available with varying slat sizes and gap widths, allowing you to choose the best arrangement for your own hanging herb garden. There's also a huge variety of colours and finishes, ranging from wood through to metal, making it easy to find one to suit whether you have a traditional or more modern garden.

Quick to put up and creating a good-looking display once done, sometimes the simplest ideas are the best. You could even replicate this look indoors for an interesting and practical addition to your kitchen.

10. Choose a spiral herb garden

Choose a tapering herb spiral garden for a compact space-saving design that's both stylish and practical. It's a different take on vertical growing and one of the best herb garden ideas around.

A herb spiral is basically a small herb garden. The top planting area gets full sun and has better drainage, so herbs that like exposure to the sun and good drainage are planted there. The bottom area of the spiral is more suitable for herbs that need moist soil and less sun. The spiral herb garden gives you several zones with different soil characteristics and sun exposure to suit all your herb needs.

The structure is typically made of natural stone, but is also a great way to re-use brick in your garden. Gabion walls, such as the ones shown here, also work really well.

11. Grow herbs in raised beds

Herbs are some of the best plants to grow in raised garden beds as you can pack them in tightly together to get the biggest harvests. Oregano and thyme can grow in as little as 6in (15cm) of soil, but in general, aiming for around 12in (30cm) should cover it.

You don't need lots of space to include a raised bed either. Even a small patio area can accommodate a raised bed and they can be easier to look after than having lots of herbs scattered around in different pots. When working out the dimensions, bear in mind you should be able to get to the centre of the raised bed from each side without having to tread on your crops.

And, why stop at herbs. If you're considering starting a vegetable garden too, this is one of the easiest ways to do so.

12. Set up a herb plant theatre

A good herb garden is all about easy access and easy maintenance. And an approach that ticks both these boxes is choosing a plant theatre (a tiered planter) and positioning it just outside your kitchen door. Rack up your herb plants and you can both keep an eye on them and pick them as and when you need them.

What's more, a plant theatre is a great way of showing off your herb collection, as well as any other collections of plants such as succulents or spring bulbs. Raising your plants on shelves lets you stage them and position them where suits them best.

This Como Tiered Plant Stand from Cox & Cox is available in two sizes if want to try this idea for yourself. Or, if you don't want to splash out to set up a herb plant theatre by buying one, try repurposing an old wooden stepladder to create an eye-catching display. It's amazing how many herbs you can cram onto one.

13. Plant up a metal bucket

Galvanised metal containers are a good choice for herb gardens. Choosing a bucket makes life easy as it's portable, so you can move it from the kitchen door to an outdoor cocktail bar, outdoor fireplace idea or barbecue area for handy garnishes as needed.

Check which herbs are happy being planted together before you start. A mix of thyme, rosemary, parsley, sage, chives, and basil will work well. Try interspersing with some salad leaves too for variety.

14. Repurpose an old chest

If you've discarded some furniture as part of your home renovations, rather than taking it to your nearest recycling centre, why not upcycle it into a stylish herb garden idea instead.

The more vintage the finish the better if you want to show off your plants in a quirky way, so opt for a wooden finish and distress the exterior with a sander (if it isn't already aged). Either use small pots planted with individual herbs and pop them inside the drawers, or line the drawers with a suitable plastic liner, add drainage holes, good quality compost and plant directly into the drawers.

15. Make a pallet planter

Pallets mounted on garden walls can also be a brilliant option as they will give you more space for your herb garden, allowing you to grow larger plants.

To make a DIY pallet herb garden, find a pallet that is in good condition and hasn't been painted or treated in any way – you're going to be growing food crops in it so don't want to take any chances. You can add a couple of coats of timber stain, such as this GoodHome Outdoor Mid Oak Satin Quick Dry Wood Stain from B&Q to enhance the look of it if you like.

Create planting 'troughs' or 'pockets', then line each one with thick black plastic. Old compost bags are ideal for this. Make sure you include drainage holes, then fill with good quality compost and your choice of herb plants. It's really as easy as that!

16. Make a geometric herb garden

Show off the beauty of herbs with a more formal design in your garden. Since ancient times, herb gardens have been laid out in geometric patterns, and this parterre style suits small urban gardens equally well.

The parterre idea is a formal, symmetrical pattern with low evergreen boundaries of plants such as trimmed box. In this alternative take on the design, the spaces in between the spokes of this wheel are filled with herbs to create a neat planting pattern. It takes all the headache out of the design process and is one of the easiest herb garden ideas to get a geometric layout.

Fill the framework generously, packing each section with different foliage textures, colours, or growing habits. Trim frequently to keep plants looking neat.

17. Take your herb garden ideas indoors

Whether you're making an indoor herb garden or an outdoor one, tin cans are really useful. Peel off the labels and naked tin cans look great and even better, they all match for a coordinated look, making them the best solution if you're looking for kitchen windowsill ideas that are practical, as well as pretty.

Sometimes it's worth asking at cafes and restaurants to see if they have any super-sized olive oil or tomato cans going spare too, as these come with pretty designs on them and make great planters.

Food cans are the best to upcycle into planters as they have a coating inside to stop them from rusting. However, if they're not painted or varnished and left out in the rain, then they might rust on the outside.

Drill holes in the bottom of the cans to ensure good drainage, but you can probably get away with missing this step as long as you don't overwater the plants. Instead, add a layer of grit to the base before adding the compost.

FAQs

What herbs can be grown together?

Group Mediterranean, sun-loving herbs like sage, thyme, rosemary and oregano together as they all like the same growing conditions. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot and make sure the soil is gritty and free draining so the roots of the plants are not waterlogged.

Put shade-loving herbs like mint, dill, parsley, and chives together. These herbs don't like the soil to dry out, so tend to prefer shadier conditions. Herbs such as coriander, dill, basil, and wild rocket can be quick to bolt, especially if overcrowded, or in poor, dry soil, say experts at the RHS. To be safe, you can make regular sowings to have a good supply of these crops.

Mint should always be grown in its own container, even if it's in the ground, as it's a prolific grower and can smother other herbs. By keeping it contained, you will give a helping hand to your other herbs.

How do you start a herb garden for beginners?

Herbs are so much easier to grow than many other plants, demanding little but giving so much in return. They take up much less time and space than vegetables, can be picked pretty much constantly throughout the year, and rarely need watering because so many of them thrive in hot, dry conditions. Anyone can do it, whatever the size of your outdoor space.

Look at the space you have available and decide on the herbs you are most likely to use. If you have just a few pots on a sunny patio, your choice of herbs will differ from someone planning a larger herb garden. If you want, you can start off by growing herbs on a small scale with a collection of pots on the windowsill or include them in your small patio ideas.

Some of the easiest herbs to grow include rosemary, thyme, sage, chives and basil.

How do I make an outdoor herb garden?

If you have the space, do things on a larger scale with a separate herb garden, or by mixing in herbs with flowers and vegetables.

Try planting a good herb selection among herbaceous plants in a mixed border. Tall architectural herbs like fennel work well at the back, while thyme, chives, and parsley are best at the front of a border. Herbs like rosemary and bay can be clipped to add structure.

If you want to create a separate herb garden, first draw up a plan. Remember herbs should always be planted near a garden path so they are easy to pick. You may like a natural design or something more formally laid out. Think about using small clipped box plants to create the structure if you want to go for a geometric design.

For more ways to boost your garden's appeal, check out the latest garden trends that are informing how our gardens are being designed, and think about how you could potentially use a larger herb garden idea to help zone your garden into definable spaces.

Deciding what to plant in May can be difficult, but for all the right reasons because now the weather is improving it gives you so much choice.

The end of the month should be reliably warm so most things can be planted out by then, but at the start of May we still have to be cautious of nocturnal frosts. Keep some horticultural fleece to hand to throw over plants when colder nights are forecast.

Most seeds can be sown directly into the soil now and perennials can be planted, though do remember to water regularly should we have a warm, dry summer. So make finalising your choice of what to include in your garden design easier with our round-up of suggestions for your May planting list.

1. Helenium or 'sneezeweeds'

When we think about what to plant in May we often think about the high summer months when we want the garden to be at its peak. But we should also be thinking about the tail-end of summer and autumn, when many plants start to fade and the garden runs the risk of looking a little sad.

Filling this colour gap isn’t difficult, as all dahlias will be in their prime and with the right care, summer bedding will still have plenty of oomph left.

One variety that I think is a must for your autumnal patch, however, is Heleniums, also delightfully known as sneezeweeds. They produce daisy-like flowers with hearty centres in burnished shades of gold, orange, yellow and red, make excellent cutting garden flowers and are a perfect end-of-season food source for pollinators. The pictured Helenium 'Short and Sassy' (available from Crocus) offers vibrant orange colours.

For the best results, their favourite soil type is fertile and free-draining in a sunny spot. They also need watering and feeding regularly for the best results. Heleniums are an easy perennial plant to propagate by dividing, so do this every few years when clumps get too big.

Top tip: Heleniums look glorious planted in a ‘prairie style’ border with different types of ornamental grass, echinaceas and red hot pokers.

2. Hostas

If your garden has shady areas that need illuminating, why not pop in a hosta or two? Yes, they can be a magnet for slugs and snails (we have plenty of eco advice on how to get rid of slugs to help you keep your plants safe), but they are also beautiful, their leaves either plain green, ribbed, variegated or blotched with grey-blues and acid greens.

For once, the flowers are not the plants’ main selling point, but when they do emerge they appear as eye-catching mauve or white trumpets. Hosta flowers are often sweetly scented too.

Size is no problem, as miniature varieties such as ‘Blue Mouse Ears’ (available from Crocus) or ‘Pandoras Box’ grow well in garden planters and if you do have a serious slug problem, try a resistant variety – ‘All that Jazz, ‘Big Momma’ and ‘August Moon’ are three that have no truck with molluscs!

Hostas are one of the most popular plants for shade, and will do well when planted under trees. They like soil that has been enriched with mulch and do remember to keep them well-watered. They are best avoided if you have thin sandy soil and an exposed garden.

Top tip: Hostas are fully hardy but die right back in winter, emerging again in spring. Large clumps can be divided in autumn or spring.

3. Passion flower

If you want a lot of bang for your buck when thinking about what to plant in May, why not try growing a passion flower to add interest and cover a fence or wall?

We used to have one climbing up the front of our previous house and it was a glorious plant, producing exotic flowers in summer followed by edible, but not particularly delicious, orange fruits in autumn.

Passion flowers are one of the most popular climbing fence plants. They are relatively low maintenance, and can be safely grown up fences, pergolas and walls as their roots are not far-reaching and won’t leach moisture from the foundations.

Passion flowers (like this classic variety from Gardening Express) are easy to care for – simply give a light prune after flowering and feed with a granular fertiliser in spring and mulch well in autumn. However, they are not reliably winter hardy so for the best results plant them in a sheltered site that gets lots of sun.

Top tip: Passion flowers grown from seed can take up to 10 years to flower so if you want to propagate, take cuttings from plants instead.

4. Coleus

Sometimes it is easy to find the incessant flowers of summer bedding a little bit sickly sweet, so one solution is to break it up by planting some coleus.

Also known as solenostemon or painted nettle plants, they are one of the best foliage plants to add to the garden thanks to their leaves that come in astoundingly mixed shades, ranging from the acidic yellowy greens to deepest burgundy. Coleus scutellarioides 'Black Dragon' (available from Crocus) will make a statement in any space thanks to its velvety, dark purple leaves, while coleus 'Chocolate Mint', also from Crocus, has deep maroon leaves edged with vibrant lime.

A member of the mint family, they make interesting container gardening plants, they are worth adding to your exotic and tropical planting scheme ideas and can also be grown as indoor plants.

Coleus are not hardy so need to be sown and grown undercover. However, they are perennials – though usually treated as annuals – and can be successfully overwintered indoors. Once they have been hardened off in summer, set them in a sunny spot, or somewhere with light shade, with fertile soil.

Top tip: Once in growth, pinch out the central tip to encourage bushy growth and fuller leaves.

5. Scented plants

With sultry summer evenings just around the corner, your list of what to plant in May should really include adding some nocturnal scent to your garden.

Evening-scented plants release their perfume as dusk falls as they are designed to be pollinated by nocturnal insects. Many of them are also pale in colour so they show up well under garden lights.

They include the pink biennial sweet rocket that produces large clusters of pink flowers, night phlox and border phlox and night-scented stock. Lilies are also renowned for their perfume and the white trumpets of the regal lily (Lilium regale) produce their heady scent after dusk.

Several climbers also release their perfume in darkness, including wisteria, honeysuckle and star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides), available from Gardening Express.

Grow them close to areas where you sit at night and enjoy their delicious scents. Both of these would make a good climbing plant for a pergola, for example.

Top tip: Night phlox is not reliably hardy so is best grown in containers so it can be moved undercover in winter.

6. Fuchsias

Fuchsias never go out of fashion and it's easy to see why. There are so many varieties, with jolly skirt-shaped flowers in a multitude of shapes and shades.

If you want pared-back and simple, clean lines, then there’s a fuchsia for you to plant in May. If you are after something much more flouncy and eye-catching then yes, there’s something for you too! Fuchsia 'Genii' from Crocus features bold pink and purple flowers, while fuchsia 'Winston Churchill' (also from Crocus) has eye-catching double flowers.

Fuchsias originate in South America and while many are hardy, a lot of those sold as summer bedding won’t tolerate cold winters so should be either grown in pots so they can be moved somewhere frost-free in autumn, or grown as annuals and discarded after summer.

You can also get trailing varieties that are perfect for hanging baskets and all varieties sit well in summer patio pots. Fuchsia 'Eva Boerg' (from Crocus) is ideal for both hanging baskets and window boxes.

Fuchsias all appreciate a sunny spot, or somewhere with light shade, and free-draining, fertile soil. Avoid places with full sun in the height of summer as they can cause scorching, and grow them out of windy sites as you risk losing all the flowers.

Top tip: Wait until the end of the month when the risk of frost has passed before planting out half-hardy fuchsias.

7. Biennials such as foxgloves, aquilegia and wallflowers

Biennials are plants that are sown and grown one year, before they go dormant in winter then spring back to life in their second year to flower, set seed and die.

They include honesty, sweet rocket, foxgloves, night scented stock, aquilegia, vipers bugloss and wallflowers.

Plant the seeds now undercover, growing them in your greenhouse or cold frame. They will then be ready to plant out in late summer or early fall when the soil is still warm, and will give you a splendid show next year.

Top tip: Always sow honesty directly where you want it to grow as the seedlings quickly develop deep tap roots and don’t transplant well.

8. Lavender

Once seen as a bit ‘fuddy duddy’ and matronly, lavender is very much back en vogue – and rightly so. These easy-going plants fit perfectly into a Mediterranean garden scheme and are incredibly versatile and low-maintenance, flowering in a variety of shades from darkest blue to white, all offset by attractive grey-green leaves.

They are tough plants too, happy in poor soil and therefore ideal for less-able gardeners who may have trouble with watering.

If you're thinking of landscaping with lavender, it looks stunning in gravel gardens, but not out of place in traditional cottage garden ideas.

The two main varieties that are ideal to plant in May are English, with masses of small flower heads, and French, which has larger flowers topped by a tuft of petals. They like free-draining soil and the French varieties are best planted in containers so they can be moved undercover in winter as they are less hardy then their English cousins.

Lavender 'Hidcote' (available from Gardening Express) is an English variety and always a popular choice. Lavender 'Papillon' (from Dobies) is a lightly perfumed French variety with purply/pink flowers.

Top tip: Lavender is one of the many garden plants that are great for drying, either for use in an arrangement or to scent drawers and clothes. Cut stems just before the flowers are fully open, then hang them upside down in bunches. When completely dry, either rub the stems between your hands to loosen the flowers or keep them intact to use in flower arrangements.

9. Pelargoniums

Who doesn’t love a patch of pellies in their garden? These ubiquitous summer bedders that are as suitable for planters and hanging baskets as they are for adding to garden borders, come in a wide range of colours, from white to scarlet and all shades of pink in between.

Some have scented leaves, others have patterned foliage and they all make a fabulous summer splash in borders and containers.

Although they are tender they are worth considering when thinking about what to plant in May, though in colder areas I would wait until the end of the month because they will still turn up their toes after a late frost.

Most varieties love full sun, though Regal and Zonal cultivars prefer some shade. Pelargoniums can survive with little watering – certainly don’t overwater any growing in pots – but they will thank you for a regular feed with a high-potassium liquid tomato fertiliser to keep the flowers coming.

Pinch out the shoot tips after planting to encourage bushy growth and make sure they have good ventilation as the fleshy leaves are vulnerable to mildew and tots.

Top tip: Take softwood cuttings in late summer in case the parent plants don’t make it through the winter.

10. Annuals

If you need something speedy to sow in time for a special summer event, or just to fill some border gaps, annuals are your go-to option for a low-maintenance garden idea.

Sown now, when the soil is warm and damp, they will germinate and hopefully even flower by midsummer. Sunny calendulas, nigella with its host of colours and elegant, delicate foliage, cornflowers, annual poppies, and cheery California poppies can all be started now to flower this summer and autumn.

To grow flowers from seeds, prepare a seedbed by raking the soil to break up large lumps, then dampen with fresh water before scattering the seeds as thinly as possible.

Cover with a little more soil, label the area and puff some pepper dust over the top to keep off pests and cats wanting to use it as a litter tray. If seedlings appear too close together you can thin them by hand.

Top tip: Many hardy annuals self-seed freely so remember to collect some seeds in autumn to sow where you want them to grow.

Make sure you are hardening off plants properly before putting them out as they need enough time to toughen up so they are ready to face the uncertain weathers of the outside garden.

By the time May draws to an end, temperatures should be reliably higher, meaning we should be able to plant what we want in our garden landscaping.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Giant hogweed – as architecturally attractive as it may appear on the surface – is not a plant that you want in your garden.

Similar to Japanese knotweed, giant hogweed is incredibly invasive. It grows wild, often lining riverbanks and roads and out-competing native species, which is a problem in itself. What's more concerning to most homeowners is that giant hogweed also happens to be dangerous when touched.

But if you spot it in your garden landscaping, even though you haven't planted it, don't panic. With the right approach, a giant hogweed invasion can be dealt with safely and here's how.

Where does giant hogweed come from?

Although not a native species in the UK, giant hogweed has been around for longer than you might think.

"Giant hogweed was introduced to the UK as an ornamental plant in the 19th century," shares Gemma Rose, invasive non-native species project manager at North Wales Wildlife Trust.

"Giant hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum) is a biennial or short-lived perennial invasive non-native species (INNS) originating from Central Asia. It is a member of the carrot family and has since escaped into the wild, where it has become widespread and problematic," she explains.

Identifying giant hogweed

Giant hogweed looks quite similar to cow parsley, and, it also looks – unsurprisingly – like common hogweed, which is why it can be hard to identify if you suspect it in your garden.

"Giant hogweed is high and mighty," confirms James Ewens, gardening and wildlife expert at Green Feathers. "It is very tall reaching up to five metres, with thick stems marked by purple blotches, large jagged leaves, and wide clusters of small white flowers shaped like umbrellas.”

"Giant hogweed can look similar to our native common hogweed (Heracleum sphondylium) when young," adds Gemma Rose. "However, when fully grown it is easily distinguishable. As well as its height, it has large umbrella-shaped flower clusters up to 80cm across. The leaves are deeply serrated and hairy, growing up to three metres wide, and the thick stems are marked with dark red-purple blotches and covered in coarse white hairs."

Overall, as its name suggests, it's a giant in every sense.

Where is it most commonly found?

If you enjoy walking along your local river, you may well have already come across giant hogweed, says Gemma Rose.

"It's widespread across much of the UK, and is most commonly found along riverbanks, as well as on roadside and railway verges," she explains. "These environments act as effective dispersal corridors, allowing seeds to spread via flowing water, wind, and vehicle movement. A single plant can produce up to around 50,000 seeds, enabling it to spread rapidly and form dense stands."

Understanding the dangers of giant hogweed

So why is giant hogweed considered dangerous and does it affect humans and animals?

"The sap of giant hogweed is phototoxic, meaning that after contact the skin becomes highly sensitive to sunlight," explains Gemma Rose. "This can result in severe burns and painful blistering, with affected areas often remaining sensitive for several months or even years."

It's a reaction called phytophotodermatitis which damages your DNA and changes the way your skin protects itself from sunlight. And, if you get it in your eyes, the consequences are equally, if not even more, serious.

"From a wildlife perspective, dense stands can smother native vegetation, reducing plant diversity and limiting food sources for pollinators, insects, and the species that rely on them, such as birds," adds James.

"Similar effects to humans can occur in animals," adds Gemma, "particularly on areas with little or no fur. However, some livestock (such as sheep and cattle) have been shown to help suppress growth through grazing, although this should only be considered as part of a managed control approach. For further information, see the Scottish Invasive Species Initiative (SISI).

"If contact does occur, the affected area should be rinsed thoroughly as soon as possible and protected from sunlight for several days (ideally by covering the area)," she advises. "It is also strongly advised to seek medical attention."

The plant can affect our four-legged friends – both canines and felines – in the same way as well, which is another reason why it's best to take action if you spot it in your plot or garden design.

How to get rid of giant hogweed

If you've spotted giant hogweed in your garden, the most important thing to remember first is to not – under any circumstances – go near it without proper protection. Gloves, long sleeves and pants, safety glasses and a face mask are all advised, with long hair tied well back.

Don't forget that cut plant debris, contaminated clothing and tools are potentially hazardous too, so be sure to follow all the necessary steps when identifying and removing it from your garden.

"Mechanical methods such as mowing or strimming are strongly discouraged, as they can spread the plant’s sap and significantly increase the risk of skin contact and injury," warns Gemma Rose.

It's also not hugely effective – in fact, it can encourage new buds to form on the stalks quickly.

You therefore have three main options as follows:

1. Call in the experts

"Due to the very high risk to human health, management of established giant hogweed should only be undertaken by trained professionals," says Gemma Rose, "and you can find more guidance on the RHS website."

A similar approach is typically advised when considering how to get rid of Japanese knotweed too.

But, for smaller cases, or if you think you've caught the spread of giant hogweed early on, you do have some options for a DIY approach.

2. Dig it up

The first option you have to is to try pulling, or digging up the giant hogweed. The RHS suggests to do this in May, when the plants have grown tall but are yet to produce their flowering spikes.

"In some cases, smaller plants may be removed by digging out the whole plant and cutting the taproot at approximately a 45-degree angle," confirms Gemma Rose. "But, this should only be attempted where full protective clothing is worn, with no skin exposed."

It's also easiest to do so when the ground is moist, but remember that that the dangerous sap is also found in the roots, so take caution. You can then continue to monitor the area, repeating the process when necessary, until no new growth appears.

3. Use a weed killer

“Targeted herbicide use can be effective for killing giant hogweed," says James Ewans, "but it needs to be done carefully to avoid harming surrounding plants and wildlife.

For giant hogweed, find an appropriate product that states giant hogweed on the label. This will generally be a systemic, glyphosate-based weed killer, which will tackle the roots rather than just the top growth. These normally need to be applied to the leaves in late spring, then again in late summer if necessary, but check the instructions first.

As the RHS points out, it is worth noting that giant hogweed likes to grow near bodies of water, such as streams or ponds. If this is the case in your garden, it's best to use an alternative approach rather than this one, as the chance of weed killer entering waterways should always be avoided.

Use these when removing small giant hogweed plants

How do you prevent it returning?

“Preventing it from returning requires ongoing monitoring and repeat treatment, as seeds can remain viable in the soil for several years. Areas should be checked regularly for regrowth, particularly in spring when growth surges," says James Ewans.

“Establishing strong, healthy native vegetation can help outcompete any returning seedlings, reducing the chance of reinfestation while also restoring habitat quality for wildlife.”

"Whilst nothing will completely prevent giant hogweed from returning, a combination of repeated treatment and the establishment of dense native vegetation cover is the most effective way to keep it under long-term control," agrees Gemma Rose.

Disposing of giant hogweed safely

Like Japanese knotweed, giant hogweed is a controlled waste. This means that it can't be put in your general trash, nor can it simply be dropped off at your local tip unless it has the correct licence to deal with it. Gemma Rose explains more.

"Under the Environmental Protection Act 1990, giant hogweed is classified as controlled waste. As such, any removal from site must be carried out under strict biosecurity protocols to prevent further spread and to minimise risk to health.

"Where possible, it is preferable to leave plant material in situ to decompose naturally, provided there is no risk of it spreading (e.g. setting seed)," she advises. "This reduces the need for transport and lowers the risk of accidental spread.

"If removal is necessary, material should only be transported and disposed of by authorised persons and must be taken to a suitably licensed or permitted landfill facility, in line with legal requirements. Always consult the relevant Environment Agency guidance for full details," says Gemma.

"In line with the Be Plant Wise campaign, any on-site composting must be undertaken with extreme care," she warns. "Composting is only appropriate where it can be done responsibly and securely, ensuring that viable plant material and seeds are fully destroyed and cannot spread into the wider environment."

"It’s always a good idea to check with your local council when it comes to dangerous, poisonous plants like giant hogweed before you start disposal," adds James Ewans, "to make sure you are adhering to any specific guidelines they may have in place."

What to plant once you've removed it

"Following the removal of giant hogweed, encouraging the growth of native UK species can help restore the habitat, stabilise the ground, and reduce the risk of it coming back," notes Gemma Rose.

"Native alternatives such as cow parsley, meadowsweet, or other UK wildflowers are far better options," suggests James Ewans.

“These plants provide valuable nectar and pollen for pollinators like bees and butterflies, as well as a habitat for insects and small wildlife, and they look lovely. Choosing native species helps support local biodiversity, and maintains a balanced ecosystem without the risk of invasive spread."

"Purple loosestrife, willow or alder can also provide similar structure and ecological function without the associated risks," adds Gemma. Prioritising species that are native and well-suited to the local environment will help create a resilient plant community that can better resist invasive species in the future."

Along with giant hogweed, Japanese Knotweed and bamboo are considered two of the worst offenders in UK gardens. Find out how to identify Japanese knotweed and make sure you understand the laws around growing bamboo before you consider it for screening your garden.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Japanese knotweed is continuing to impact the UK housing market in 2026, with new research from Environet estimating that around 7% of homes are affected.

If Japanese knotweed is identified on your property, the study shows it can lead to an average property value reduction of about 5%, raising significant concerns for homeowners preparing to sell or renovate.

With millions of properties potentially impacted and homeowners becoming increasingly cautious, the study reveals how a problem many assume is rare could be closer to home than they think.

The scale of Japanese knotweed across UK homes

Environet’s research suggests that Japanese knotweed now affects around 1.5 million homes across the UK, equating to roughly 7% of the housing stock.

The plant is particularly common in urban and post-industrial areas, where it has spread over decades, but its impact is not always immediately visible.

For homeowners, this means the risk can extend beyond their own garden, with neighbouring infestations also influencing property surveys and sales.

Property values and buyer behaviour

According to the study, homes affected by Japanese knotweed see an average reduction of around 5% for their house prices, which can amount to significant financial losses depending on the property.

Separate polling conducted with YouGov found that many buyers remain wary, with a substantial proportion unwilling to purchase a property affected by knotweed under any circumstances. This ongoing caution continues to affect demand, often leading to renegotiations or failed sales.

Emily Grant, director at Environet, said: “For most people, their home is their biggest asset, yet over 1.5 million households are seeing their property value undermined by knotweed.”

She added that “a significant proportion of buyers still won’t touch an affected property under any circumstance,” despite improved understanding of the issue in recent years.

Costs, delays and long term management for homeowners

Beyond the immediate hit to property values, Japanese knotweed can lead to long-term costs and delays for homeowners.

Treatment plans often take several years to complete and may be required before a property can be sold or mortgaged.

Andrew McColl, chairman of the Residential Property Surveyors Association, said: “Discovering Japanese knotweed can have significant financial implications, as [Japanese knotweed] removal and management plans are often costly and may require anywhere from five to 10 years to fully implement.”

How should this impact homeowners

For homeowners, the findings reinforce the importance of early identification and professional management.

While knotweed does not necessarily make a property unsellable, failing to address it can reduce value, delay transactions and limit buyer interest.

As a result, more sellers are opting for formal treatment plans and guarantees before listing their homes, particularly in Japanese knotweed hotspot areas where the plant is known to be more prevalent.

It might not be somewhere we visit on a daily basis, but having an organised shed will make a world of difference when it comes to tackling those essential garden tasks.

It's easy to shove everything inside your shed, close the door, and hope for the best, but now is the time to get on top of this area and have it prepared for the summer season (and finally off your to-do list).

Below, I've rounded up some of the best (yet simple) ways to get your shed in order this spring – no matter how big your budget, shed or garden design may be.

1. A rail to hang long tools

After spotting this garden tool storage solution on an episode of Gardeners' World, Homebuilding & Renovating's editor Beth Murton knew she had to give it a go in her own shed – especially since Monty Don had done something similar.

"We simply attached pieces of wood to the shed wall in two rows. The bottom row has wooden pegs inserted along the length of the timber, and it’s great for hanging larger garden tools such as spades. The top row has simple nails along its length and we hook smaller tools such as secateurs on this row," she explains.

"There’s also space behind the timber to tuck in items such as gardening gloves. It means our garden tools are kept neatly to one side of the shed and we can easily spot the tool we need without having to root around the shed looking for it. It’s a cheap and simple idea but really effective at keeping the space tidy."

2. A workstation for garden tasks

Whether you're re-potting seedlings or building a bird box, having a workstation in your shed is an excellent idea, saving you from bending down to floor level in the garden or bringing dirty items into the house.

In the example above, the station features a handy shelving area beneath the worktop, providing a convenient place to store tools and materials so you always know where to find them.

While there are plenty of pre-made options available, like the one below from Amazon, this is a job you could easily tackle yourself – especially if you have any leftover decking going spare!

3. Good lighting scheme

There’s nothing worse than spending hours looking for one specific item, which is why having a good shed lighting design is an absolute must. This may sound simple, but it’s often overlooked in our outbuildings.

In an ideal world, you would have natural lighting through a window, along with a ceiling light for general brightness, task lighting for everyday activities, and a portable light for moving around.

4. Vertical wall-mounted shelving

Instead of piling your belongings on top of each other and creating a big old mess, install some wall-mounted shelving units to keep things neat and tidy. In the photo above, items have been grouped by category so that they’re easy to find.

Hanging a shelf is a simple DIY task that can be completed in four steps: placing and anchoring your brackets, preparing your shelf, installing the brackets and shelf, and then adding the finishing touches like wood protection and paint.

5. A multi-functional storage solution

If space doesn’t allow for large shelves or built-in units, consider installing a hanging storage solution, as shown in the photo above. This rack is perfect for organising small – and often hard-to-find – items such as seedling pots, hand forks, scissors, and gloves, and it won’t take up too much room.

If you want to take your shed organisation to the next level, you could also add labels so everything has a permanent home.

“Just as you wouldn’t expect a kitchen to function without shelves and drawers, or a wardrobe without rails and compartments, a shed works best when it is properly planned," says Jenny Davis, Head of Marketing for The Posh Shed Company. "With the right layout and smart storage solutions, even the most cluttered shed can be transformed into an organised, practical space."

For more garden inspiration, browse through these beautiful cottage garden patio ideas or discover how to smarten up your space with clever wheelie bin storage ideas.

Along with your front door and driveway, your front path ideas can set the tone for how the rest of your home is perceived.

And, with daily foot traffic meaning your path not only needs to look good, but should also be practical and hard-wearing too, making sure it gets some serious consideration in your landscaping ideas is a must.

From choosing the right materials, through to considering how to make your path work with the rest of your exterior, here's nine front garden path ideas that won't lead you astray.

1. Lay patterned tiles for a pretty pathway

If the entrance to your home has a cottage garden style with a mix of plants, pots and greenery, add an equally eclectic front path by laying one made out of patterned tiles. It's important, however, that you don't eschew practical in favour of something pretty.

"Durability is the first consideration when choosing path tiles, particularly in a climate where surfaces need to cope with rain, temperature shifts and periods of direct sun," says Lesley Taylor, interior designer and founder of Baked Tiles. "Porcelain tiles are often a strong choice because they are dense, low in porosity and resistant to staining, which means they hold their appearance over time without demanding constant maintenance.

"Slip resistance is equally important, especially outdoors where surfaces are exposed to moisture, so opting for a finish with enough grip (at least an R rating of 10 or PTV+36) underfoot ensures the space feels as usable in damp conditions as it does in dry weather," she adds.

For the same look, you can find the patterned tiles from this idea in the 1860 Collection from Baked Tiles.

2. Pick a colour scheme that complements your front door

If your front path ideas are on the smaller side, with only a short stretch of path to play with before you reach the front door, you can still make an impact.

Short doesn't have to mean less stylish, and in this instance, it's the colour combinations and classic chequerboard tile pattern that give this path a presence of its own. The blue and white tiles work perfectly with the navy front door, which in turn contrasts with the white rendered exterior of the home.

When choosing colours for your front path, think of the following says Lesley Jones, to help you decide which colours suits your overall design goals.

"Softer, natural tones tend to integrate more easily, allowing greenery and seasonal changes to come forward, while stronger colours or defined patterns can be used more deliberately, giving all year round colour to your front garden and entrance."

Shop for chequerboard path tiles

3. Choose cobbles in a countryside setting

Cobble setts are a common sight in countryside driveway ideas, and as such, are perfect for rural front path ideas too. They can also be good in wetter areas, as the way in which they are laid allows for natural path and driveway drainage in between the setts.

While you could also run them to the door, in this front path idea, they end at the front garden wall, providing a visual linear change without the need for a gate. They lead onto larger stones and then a gravel pathway, which can be a good solution if you want to add an extra layer of 'noisy' home security.

4. Larger tiles suit the front path to a grander home

Choosing the right size for your front path stones or tiles matters when you have an imposing entrance such as this one. Although the reality is there's not always a right or wrong answer. While the larger tiles used here feel in keeping with the large frontage, you need to think about the overall impression you want to create.

"Larger-format tiles can create a more continuous surface, while smaller formats introduce more joints and therefore more visual activity," explains Lesley Jones. "Neither is right or wrong, but the decision should reflect how calm or detailed you want the pathway to feel."

Shop for path paving

5. Embed paving into your lawn

Front paths don't always lead directly to the front door, and instead, can sometimes lead to a front garden fence or gate.

In this home, neatly manicured lawns are broken up with a structured light grey paved path. The neat green hedging adds to the uniformity of the design too, which despite the contemporary feel, appears to lead to an older property.

However, regardless of the age or style of the property, it's certainly got kerb appeal, which, as John Pearce, co-director at Oltco explains, should be one of your main goals when choosing your front path ideas.

“When designing a front garden path, it’s important to think about both practicality and visual appeal. The path should provide a clear, logical route to the entrance, with a width that comfortably accommodates foot traffic. You’ll also want to consider drainage, slip resistance and how the material will perform in all weather conditions.

"From a design perspective, choosing a finish and colour that complements the property and surrounding landscaping can make a big difference to kerb appeal," confirms John, "helping to create a cohesive, welcoming entrance and often increasing property value too.”

6. Don't forget your front path lighting

Integral to the success of your front path is good garden lighting. As the main entrance and exit to your home at all times of day and night, having slip-resistant paving isn't the only safety issue you need to consider.

Good pathway lighting that provides a well-lit route in and out of your home is also essential. Contemporary homes such as this one can benefit from sleek, ground-level LED lighting, whereas other homes may suit more traditional styles of outdoor lighting such as this London Industrial Outdoor Floor Path Light from Dunelm.

Don't forget the value of solar-powered lighting as well for your front path, such as this pack of 4 Lavenham Solar Garden Lights from B&Q if you want to find a way of boosting your external lighting without increasing your energy bills.

7. Mix and match stone sizes in longer paths

While sticking to one shape or size can make smaller paths feel bigger, if your property has a large path leading to the front door, then it gives you scope to play with the size and shape of your path tiles too.

Here, smaller stone setts are bordered by green lawns and lead to a small set of steps, which is where the visual change takes place. The larger paving slabs line the steps, and then the remainder of the path to the front door.

Another reason why this pathway looks so good? Choosing stone in the same colour as the central section of the home is a subtle but clever way of drawing your eye forward to the real star of the show – the beautiful exterior and porch.

8. Try a curved, meandering gravel path

If the front of your home has a natural L-shape, nestled around a small square patch of land, this doesn't mean you have to follow suit with a linear, straight path.

Instead, break the boundaries by creating a meandering, curved pathway that gives you the option to combine a variety of materials such as gravel, black slate slabs and even a small section of grass, or planted shrubs.

9. A resin-bound pathway suits a contemporary home

If you like the look of gravel, but not necessarily the displacement of it which can be plentiful when used on heavy-traffic pathways, a resin-bound front path is an option worth considering.

It also has some practical features that you may also not be aware of, as John Pearce explains.

“Resin bound surfacing is an excellent choice for pathways because it offers a combination of durability, permeability and low maintenance. The surface is smooth and seamless, making it easy to walk on and suitable for all users, while its permeable structure allows water to drain through rather than pooling on the surface.

"This helps reduce puddling and supports SuDS compliance," John continues, "which is an important consideration for many homeowners. It’s also resistant to cracking and weed growth, meaning it keeps its appearance with minimal upkeep over time.”

But, as a front path material that falls into the higher cost category, what do you need to do to make sure your investment latsts?

“It’s important that resin bound pathways are installed on a suitable, well-prepared base to ensure long-term performance," advises John. "Choosing an experienced installer is key to achieving a high-quality finish that will last. In terms of maintenance, resin is very straightforward – regular sweeping and occasional washing will keep it looking its best. Homeowners should also ensure the path is designed with appropriate edging and layout to suit the space, both for durability and to achieve a clean, professional look.”

Fallen in love with this final idea of a resin-bound front path idea? John explains what other materials work well with it when finalising your front garden ideas.

“Resin bound surfaces are very versatile and work well alongside a wide range of materials. They pair particularly well with natural elements such as plants, lawned areas and timber features, helping to create a softer, more contemporary look. They can also complement traditional materials, such as when re-using brick in gardens. Because resin is available in a variety of colours and blends, it can be tailored to tie different elements of a garden design together.”

Looking to add a touch of romance to your plot? These cottage garden patio ideas are for you. With a few styling tips and a ton of flowers, it's easy to create a whimsical spot full of old English charm.

The beauty of cottage garden ideas is that they're relaxed, almost higgledy-piggledy. You will seldom find the pared-back, hard surfaces which you might see in a more contemporary space, and you probably won't find palms or other exotic plants either. Instead, think billowing borders of soft planting, and more traditional materials.

From surrounding your outdoor seating area in clambering roses and giant urns, to adding a beautiful bird bath or two – read on for all the inspiration you need to create the cottage garden patio of your dreams.

1. Create an enchanting canopy over your patio

Many people love to use their patio to sit, relax, and enjoy a meal outdoors. Opting for a pergola or gazebo can be an easy way to create one, and whether you're entertaining or enjoying a cuppa for one, this gorgeous pergola provides a perfect retreat.

The vibrant foliage overhead not only creates a sheltered, intimate vibe, but will also provide cool shade in the summer. Why not recreate the look by growing some of the best climbing pergola plants up and over the sides and top?

Soft roses in pastel hues border the space, elevating the view even further and, as we can imagine, filling the air with delicious scent. Decorate your table with jam jars of freshly cut flowers and tea lights, and add an array of pretty placemats to finish the scene.

2. Add antique finds for traditional cottage charm

Keep a lookout for second hand terracotta containers for your garden planters in cottage gardens. This antique urn is a great example of how to add old-time charm to a garden, providing a lovely focal point when popped at the corner of your cottage garden patio.

Garden designer Tracy Foster, founder of Tracy Foster Garden Design says, "one of the most wonderful things about the cottage garden style of gardening is that it was born out of the need to do things cheaply and simply.

"Materials for paths and walls look better if they are reclaimed and reused which can be a great money saver as well as being much less wasteful and better for the environment."

And, don't worry about keeping your reclaimed finds pristine – moss and weathering will only add to its character. Then, surround with purple globes of alliums for a beautiful display.

3. Go for a more natural, overgrown vibe

We love how this sweet country cottage is almost hidden by greenery. Tucked beneath rambling roses and ivy, it's the perfect fairytale setting. Softly shaped garden hedges surround huge swathes of planting, whilst an old red-brick patio takes centre stage.

Don't be afraid to welcome a touch of the wild by allowing nature to do its thing in cottage, or cottage-inspired garden designs. Here, a mound of moss and lichen provides a living carpet for the outdoor seating set-up. And, the rusted patination to the quaint chairs and table transport us straight to Frances Hodgson Burnett's Secret Garden.

4. Include a beautiful bistro set on your patio

A bistro set is always a lovely addition to your garden furniture. Simple, timeless, affordable, and available in a whole host of colours – they work just beautifully on a cottage garden patio.

The delicate, pale hue of this set lifts the space and complements the surrounding Hostas, Erigeron, and Scabiosa perfectly. The best bistro sets are often foldable too, making them a great choice for all kinds of small garden ideas.

Shop for bistro sets for your cottage garden patio

5. Allow it to grow wild

Cottage garden style is all about the plants you include, and as this idea demonstrates, sometimes, more simply is more.

Try planting the perennial Alchemilla mollis into any nooks and crannies of your patio, as seen here. With gently scalloped leaves and vibrant lime-green flowers in the summer, it's a lovely, low-maintenance plant. Plus, it looks stunning after rainfall, as droplets of water cling to its foliage, like jewels. You could even try Monty Don's 'crack gardening' trick and grow lettuce like our news editor did – to surprising success.

The wild look is balanced by the soft topiary behind. Again, nothing too formal, but it gives the garden a considered, rather than abandoned, feel.

6. Fill patio containers with cottage garden annuals

These two large pots frame the entrance to the patio and make a striking feature in themselves. They are full of pale-mauve pincushion flowers – an annual meadow-flower that's a favourite of butterflies – amongst other purple-hued beauties.

Keeping a selected colour palette is a great way to bring a sense of cohesion to a cottage garden style space, while still embracing a more abundant style of gardening. Although, of course, a more eclectic approach is totally fine, too – whatever suits your style.

7. Add a stone bird bath for a rustic look

To elevate your patio, why not add a bird bath? A classic stone version such as this will weather beautifully over time and provides a charming focal point.

What's more, it will offer a retreat for any visiting featured friends. And is there anything more delightful then watching garden birds chirp and flit merrily nearby? You might like to take a look at our other advice on how to attract birds to your garden, too.

Bird baths to suit your cottage garden patio

8. Line your patio steps with flowers

If your garden is on a slope, then you may have steps leading to (or away from) your patio. They can be easily worked into your cottage garden style with the addition of plants.

You may have already picked your favourites, but these ones are Saliva 'Hot Lips'. A favourite amongst many gardeners, their eye-catching white and red blooms sit along elegant stems. They look lovely planted en masse.

Head over to our cottage garden path ideas for more ways to make your hard landscaping feel in-keeping with the cottage theme.

9. Lay patterned patio tiles to add character

Choosing materials for your cottage garden patio will require you to seek out the best patio tiles for the job. The benefit of cottage gardens is that their eclectic feel means you have a wealth of options available to you.

Lesley Taylor, interior designer and founder of Baked Tiles shares her advice on what to consider when selecting tiles for a cottage garden patio.

"Cottage gardens tend to favour a softer, more relaxed approach, where planting is generous and slightly informal, and hard landscaping needs to sit comfortably within that setting, rather than feeling as an afterthought that jars with the space.

"Tiles that carry a sense of variation, warmth and subtle irregularity tend to work best, as they echo the natural character of the garden rather than interrupting it," she says.

"Stone-effect porcelain is particularly well suited to this style because it captures the tonal shifts and surface texture of materials such as limestone or weathered stone, while offering the resilience needed for outdoor use.

"These tiles bring depth without sharp contrast, allowing them to act as a gentle backdrop that supports the planting rather than drawing attention away from it," continues Lesley. "The slight movement within the surface helps avoid a flat or overly uniform finish, which can feel out of place in a more organic garden setting.

And, if patterned tiles, like the Alfresco Jannah 20mm Paver from Baked Tiles, in the image above have caught your attention, Lesley explains what to consider when selecting patterns.

"Pattern can sit beautifully within a cottage garden, though it works best when it feels woven into the space rather than laid on top of it. In gardens where there is already a great deal happening visually, the role of a patterned tile is not to compete with that, but to bring a sense of structure that gently holds everything together," she says.

"Designs with a more relaxed repeat like a muted checkerboard or a slightly weathered quality tend to settle more naturally into the garden, as though they have softened over time. There is a subtlety to them that allows interest to build gradually, rather than demanding attention all at once, which suits the layered nature of a cottage garden far more comfortably."

10. Carve out a corner for an outdoor shower

Having a more traditional style of garden doesn't mean you can't embrace current garden trends. With wellbeing and outdoor living becoming a must-have in homes, consider allocating a corner of your cottage garden patio to an outdoor shower.

Here, a gravel patio is edged with raised garden beds and an integrated showering space. A backsplash tiled with appropriate tiles, such as these Foundry Novo Linen and Beige tiles from Ca'Pietra helps define the space, while plants, shrubs and trellises located around it help make it feel more secluded. Choose a more traditional metal finish for your shower too, such as matt brass or gold so it's in keeping with the overall cottage vibe.

Try Etsy for a range of handmade outdoor showers that exude a cottage garden feel.

11. Adorn patio walls with roses

Sweetly scented roses are a must-have for any cottage-style garden, so make sure you bring them to the patio, too. You can display miniature kinds in pots, larger types in nearby borders, or even introduce a climber or two.

As the RHS advise, both climbing and shrub varieties can do well when trained up walls, pillars or archways. We love David Austen's 'Gertrude Jekyll' for bright pink blooms with incredible scent, which can be used as a short climber.

Or, if you want to match what the celebrities do in their outdoor spaces, find out David Beckham's favourite rose so you can plant them too.

12. Add rustic shelves to a cottage garden patio

These A-line shelves have a rustic charm that works well on a cottage garden patio. Covered in pots, lanterns and outdoor ornaments, it's a great way to add an extra dose of style to your space.

With its natural wooden finish, it blends in with the rest of the theme perfectly. You could also use it to string up bunting for a vintage feel, or even use festoon lights on it as part of your garden lighting scheme, to up the ambience further.

For other cottage garden materials, embrace reclaimed, traditional materials, says Tracy Foster. "Examples that spring to mind are brick edges, simple gravel paths, crazy paving with self seeded herbs and flowers growing in the cracks, herringbone brick paths, and simple stepping stones running through the planting.

"The look also lends itself well to narrow cottage garden paths and flowing curves, which is great if you would like a change from the prevailing hard lines of recent design trends," she adds.

"Anything that looks handcrafted or homemade will fit in well, especially if it's made of local material in a regional style. Woven willow obelisks, cleft chestnut fencing, woven willow or hazel hurdles, and dry stone or mellow brick walls are all suitable choices."

13. Shade a cottage garden patio with a sail

While sunny days aren't guaranteed, when they do come along, you'll still want ways to garden sunshade ideas, much like you will for any other style of garden.

If a patio umbrella will take up too much floor space in a small courtyard, why not try a shade sail instead? Soft, flowing, and less structured than an umbrella, it also adds a modern twist to a traditional setting, without changing the overall cottage feel.

Looking for inspiration for your home, as well as your cottage garden? Browse these beautiful cottage kitchen ideas, and discover how to give your bathroom that cottage look.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

A towering invasive plant capable of reaching up to 15ft is returning across parts of the UK just as gardens are being cleared for spring – raising fresh warnings ahead of its peak growth in May.

Giant hogweed is re-emerging, and so are its dangerous effects, with its rapid seasonal surge expected to accelerate in the coming weeks.

Authorities have issued fresh warnings to highlight the plant’s toxic sap, which can cause severe skin burns when exposed to sunlight, warning that the combination of warmer weather and increased garden design work makes this period one of the highest-risk times of year.

Why giant hogweed is growing now

Giant hogweed survives winter underground and begins regrowth in early spring. By April, new shoots emerge from long-established root systems and seed banks in the soil.

The RHS states that "in its early growth it can be confused with other plants like cow parsley and common hogweed."

Although plants are still relatively small at this stage, growth accelerates quickly as temperatures rise, as is the case with Japanese Knotweed too. By May, giant hogweed can grow rapidly and become highly visible in affected areas, particularly in undisturbed or overgrown areas.

Where in the UK homeowners are most at risk

The highest concentration of sightings is typically linked to river valleys and lowland waterways, where seeds are carried downstream and settle along banks before spreading outward.

In the UK, higher-risk areas include:

• River corridors across southern England, the Midlands and Wales
• Waterways running through urban areas such as London, Birmingham and Manchester
• Fringe countryside where gardens back onto railway embankments or unmanaged land

Gardens most at risk are usually those with direct boundaries onto rivers, canals or overgrown public land, where seeds can easily travel in from surrounding areas.

What giant hogweed warnings are being given for May

The Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (DEFRA) advises homeowners that giant hogweed should be treated with caution during its peak growth.

The guidance warns that the plant’s toxic sap can cause severe skin burns if it comes into contact with skin exposed to sunlight, particularly during garden clearance, cutting or strimming, where accidental exposure is most likely.

It also advises that suspected plants should not be handled without protection, and that larger or established growth is typically best dealt with through professional removal, as improper cutting or disturbance can increase the risk of spread and exposure. Similar care and attention is required for Japanese knotweed removal too.

As cases of giant hogweed burns re-emerge, DEFRA says it is more important than ever to remain vigilant over giant hogweed, especially as the chances of encountering these dangerous plants grow.

According to a recent survey by the RHS, a quarter of front gardens here in the UK are now totally paved over, with 4.5 million of them containing no plants at all. While that seems pretty sad, I do get it – after all, we make up one of those households. We ripped out the pretty front garden that once contributed so much to the cottage charm of our home to make way for our driveway ideas instead.

I didn't really want the front garden to go – in fact, it was one of the few things doing the house justice when we first bought it. The lady who had lived in the house for the past 50 years had no need for a car, preferring to get around on her bicycle, but for us, a two-car household with young children, a driveway really was a necessity.

A few months after moving in, we began work on the new driveway and we now have a gravelled space on which to park – while I can't say it is as pretty as the garden that once stood there, it definitely hasn't stripped the house of its charm completely. That said, it could definitely do more to boost its kerb appeal. With this in mind, I reached out to the experts for their advice on how I could have turned my garden in into a driveway without losing its visual appeal. Here's what they had to say.

1. Retain some areas of planting

We were keen to get as much space as possible for our two cars when turning the front garden into a driveway and as such left very little in the way of greenery, save for the hedge that forms the boundary between us and our neighbours. There is also a very ill-planned flowerbed at the front of the house that is hidden from view most of the time when the cars are parked on the drive.

According to Guy Wall, head of marketing at GCL Products, neglecting to include planted areas was our first error. "These projects are always best when considered as a rounded design project rather than just simply making a place to park. Keeping areas for planting and greenery are essential to help this look natural rather than like an urban NCP car park.

"Keeping narrow borders, compact trees or shrubs can help to break up the very hard-looking surfaces (brick, render, flooring surface) and appeal to virtually all," continues Guy. "As an added bonus, these plants and planted areas can be a real benefit to driveway drainage."

2. Ensure you combine gravel with a retention grid

When it came to driveway materials, we chose gravel for a couple of reasons. Firstly, it was the cheapest option. Secondly, we felt we could lay it without professional input and, thirdly, we liked the softer, more natural appearance it offered when compared to something like block paving or tarmac. However, what we didn't think about was how it would look when in constant use – as it is, most of it ends up spilling onto the pavement and the road which looks really messy.

"With gravel, there is a huge amount of choice over the colour, grade and texture of your stone which means it can be blended to uniquely match or complement virtually any surrounding or property," picks up Guy Wall. "Gravel grid driveways are also permeable when laid on a suitable sub-base and therefore require little or no planning considerations.

"However, we specifically don't recommend loose gravel driveways as these have a number of flaws, despite being attractive and permeable," continues Guy. "They're a pain to maintain. Take it from one who has made the mistake by putting in 180mm of rounded 8-10mm gravel on his driveway years ago – it was the worst move I ever made. Gravel went everywhere, including taking a big chunk out of one of the panoramic front windows. The cars beached and got stuck and once grass had set in, it looked a state."

So what does Guy suggest we should do going forward to put the issue right?

"Gravel retention grids solve practically all the drawbacks of loose gravel. Giving you a solid surface, the grids can be filled either flush, to the top of the grid with the grid pattern visible, or slightly overfilled (best with angular gravel which will disguise the grid to the point of invisibility.) The trade off with the latter is that it will require occasional raking or cause minor migration of the gravel. Usually very cost effective, this strikes a great balance between price and quality of solution."

3. Consider resin bound stone for colour choice

While there are obviously options when it comes to keeping gravel looking neat and tidy (and I sorely wish I had considered these earlier), if you want to create a driveway with easy-to-maintain kerb appeal, resin bound stone might be a better option.

"Resin bound stone is probably the ultimate for this as there's simply endless combinations of colour and textures you can blend together," explains Guy Wall. "Marble, quartz, granite, flint, rounded, semi-rounded, angular – there's literally millions of combinations you can make.

"The surface itself is incredibly hardwearing, with an expected lifespan far in excess of 25 years and you can have patterns and shapes embedded into it. This means you can both complement and contrast the surroundings perfectly to suit your project. Additionally, there's no loose stone and it is easy to maintain, with just jet washing required to keep weeds from growing in the tiny gaps.

"Do be aware resin bound stone should be laid on a free-draining base, not overlaid on top of impermeable surfaces such as old tarmac as the water will soak through the upper surface and sit in the space between the two, ultimately cracking and breaking up during cold weather. The drawback is resin driveway cost – it can be at the upper end relative to other surfaces."

4. Don't assume you can't have grass on your driveway

I have to admit, grass was not a material we ever considered when turning the garden into a driveway – but according to Guy Wall, it can make a great option for those seeking a parking space with kerb appeal.

"Grass with a retention grid (such as the X-Grid from GCL Products) is a great choice. You can create a totally natural-looking, fortified surface with just grass," reveals Guy. "This can be incredibly useful where large swathes of grass are wanted and leaves you able to use vehicles on it without leaving any trace.

"You'll need a, solid well draining sub-base beneath and you can fill the panels with a soil/seed mix and then simply let the grass do what it does," continues Guy. "Your maintenance is weeding and mowing, as per usual with lawn maintenance. There's a gestation period with this surface, as the grass needs some time to mature, but once it's done it looks fantastic."

5. Choose materials and planting that complement the house

The one thing I think we did well when creating the driveway was choosing the gravel with the colour of the house and its surroundings in mind. We went for a creamy buff shade and it sits nicely with the colour of the house render and brickwork that make up the facade.

"We always recommend keeping tones natural and complementary to help with kerb appeal," says Guy Wall.

If you are keen to incorporate some planted areas into your driveway design, take the time to think about both form and colour when selecting your greenery – it should be chosen to suit both the house as well as the shape and overall tones within the new driveway if you want the whole thing to look blended and cohesive.

6. Design a lighting scheme that highlights the best bits

We gave zero thought to our driveway lighting ideas – this is one area that really would have boosted its appearance and something I plan on addressing soon. The only light we have at the front of the house is a solitary pendant hanging in the porch.

"Kerb appeal benefits greatly from thoughtful lighting. Exterior wall lights or discreet garden lighting can transform how the front of a property looks and feels," explains James Kendall, operations director at KES Lighting & Home. "Lighting can highlight architectural features, define pathways and create a warm welcome, all of which contribute to a sense of quality and care before someone even steps inside.

"Industry sources suggest that good kerb appeal as a whole can increase a home’s perceived value by perhaps 5–10 percent compared with a similar property lacking that level of presentation," adds James. "While it is hard to isolate how much of that uplift comes solely from lighting, exterior illumination is consistently cited as one of the smaller-cost, high-impact upgrades, especially when combined with tidy landscaping, a fresh front door, clean paths and well-maintained planting."

Shop driveway lights

7. Don't rush your choice of driveway boundary

And, finally, many of the decisions surrounding the garden-to-driveway project were made in haste, so keen were we to get our cars off the road, where they were annoying our new village neighbours. One of these rushed choices was the fence that now separates part of the driveway from the road beyond.

The old front garden featured a neat, low hedge, with a pretty blue wrought iron gate opening up to a pathway that led to the front door – the cheap lap panel fencing we opted for is nowhere near as charming.

When there are so many alternative driveway fence ideas out there, I have no idea what made us go for this one. A pretty picket fence or even painting the existing one would make such a difference. As it is, we are planning on removing the fence in the not-too-distant future anyway to make it possible for us to fit our son's car onto the driveway too – a good chance to give the whole thing a makeover.

FAQs

Is planning permission required to turn a front garden into a driveway?

If you are planning on creating a driveway from your front garden, there are a few things you'll need to bear in mind before getting started if you don't want to fall foul of the law.

"Most people focus on the landscaping when converting a front garden to a driveway – the planning and highways side is where people most often get caught out, and it's more complex than it looks," warns chartered town planner Michael Okubajo.

"There are actually two separate consent processes, and confusing them is a common and costly mistake," continues Michael. "Planning permission and highway consent are not the same thing. For the driveway surface itself, permitted development rights mean you won't need planning permission if you use a permeable material, such as gravel, porous asphalt, permeable block paving, or if surface water drains to a lawn or border within your boundary. Use an impermeable surface over five square meters with no on-site drainage, and you'll need a full planning application.

"But here's what catches people out: even if your driveway doesn't need planning permission, you still need separate highway authority consent for a dropped kerb. Without it, driving across the pavement is unlawful, and enforcement action can follow."

Even if you feel sure that driveway planning permission won't be required to turn your garden into a parking space, make sure you check with your local authority first to avoid any nasty surprises later down the line.

There are so many types of ornamental grass to choose from that you'll be spoiled for choice if you're looking for ways to keep borders looking good throughout the year. Once perennials finish flowering at the end of summer, flowerbeds can often feel empty and lack interest, but grasses will solve that problem with ease.

As well as being low-maintenance and reliable, grasses fill borders with grace and movement. They have flower panicles that billow in the breeze, and wonderful colour once they take on their autumn hues.

They work hard, performing in summer, autumn and winter alike, and create a beautiful, naturalistic look. Below, we take a look at the 16 types of ornamental grass you could choose for your garden design.

1. Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ 

A spectacular, ornamental grass, this feather-reed variety forms striking columns of vertical flower panicles that morph to a pretty straw blonde.

Calamagrostis can be planted to form feathery garden screening ideas, and is fast-growing and easy to maintain. It's deciduous and thrives in well-drained soil in open, sunny borders. Its eventual height is 1.5m.

Where to buy calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’:

• Crocus - from £9.99
• Amazon - from £11.49
• B&Q - from £15.99

2. Panicum virgatum ‘Northwind’ 

One of the best varieties of graceful switch grass around, panicum virgatum is useful for creating vertical accents in garden borders to add architectural interest.

The dense clumps of upright blue-green leaves turn to golden amber in autumn and the flowers are golden. This deciduous grass prefers well-drained soil in the sun and has a height of 1.5m.

Where to buy panicum virgatum ‘Northwind’:

• Gardener's Dream - from £10.20
• Etsy - from £17.99
• Gardening Express - £39.99

3. Stipa gigantea ‘Gold Fontaene’ 

Stipa gigantea produces panicles of oat-like flowers that shimmer gold in the sunlight above a clump of grey-green leaves.

The arching stems of this majestic semi-evergreen grass are an excellent choice for introducing movement to borders. It prefers well-drained soil in a sunny spot, and grows to a height of 2.5m.

Where to buy stipa gigantea ‘Gold Fontaene’:

• Crocus - from £9.99
• Gardening Express - from £17.99
• Dobies - from £9.99

4. Deschampsia cespitosa ‘Goldtau’ 

This airy deciduous grass billows beautifully on the breeze, and the silvery red-brown flower plumes mature to glistening gold and last well into autumn.

The feathery flowers form shimmering golden clouds that catch the light and this variety is super easy to grow too. It likes a moisture-retentive soil in the sun or semi-shade, and grows to around 75cm.

Where to buy deschampsia cespitosa ‘Goldtau’:

• RHS - from £9.99
• Crocus - from £9.99
• B&Q - from £24.99

5. Pennisetum macrourum 

This ornamental grass is a favourite of landscape designer Dan Pearson, who is known for his naturalistic planting style.

The African feather grass has long buff-cream flower wands in late summer and autumn that turn pinky-beige, and are a great choice for arranging in vases too. It spreads gradually in well-drained soil in the sun, and grows to 1.5m.

Where to buy pennisetum macrourum:

• Crocus - from £12.99
• RHS - from £12.99
• Gardener's Dream - from £13.50

6. Festuca glauca 'Intense Blue' 

Designers use this spiky polar-blue grass to add drifts and year-round colour at the front of the border. It's also a firm favourite of our editor, Beth Murton, who has planted it in pots on her patio.

It looks good when used in conjunction with garden gravel ideas and Mediterranean-style planting schemes. It also works well in containers and is one of the best plants for winter pots.

In summer, it produces masses of attractive fawn flowerheads. It prefers well-drained sun-baked soil or containers, and grows to a height of 30cm.

Where to buy festuca glauca 'Intense Blue':

• B&Q - from £17.99
• RHS - from £19.99
• Crocus - from £19.99

7. Stipa tenuissima

A favourite of garden designer Luciano Giubbilei, the green-blonde Mexican feather grass creates movement and lightness at the front of the border as it billows in the breeze.

It's ideal for a sunny gravel garden and also works well in large garden planters. This evergreen is suitable for poor, well-drained soil in full sun, and has an expected height of 50cm.

Where to buy stipa tenuissima:

• Crocus - from £8.99
• RHS - from £8.99
• Suttons - from £12.99

8. Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’ 

This fabulous fountain grass has green leaves marked with cream stripes that create a lush jungle effect for garden edging.

The leaves sway and rustle on the breeze and this often produces silky spikes of flowers in late summer which last well into the winter months. This is a deciduous grass for well-drained soil in sun, and has a height of 1.5m.

Where to buy miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’:

• Crocus - from £11.99
• Dobies - from £12.99
• Gardener's Dream - £22.95

9. Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’ 

A wonderfully elegant grass that forms a pale clump of slender white and green leaves that arch gently at their tips to create a fountain-like effect.

In warm summers, these types of ornamental grass have reddish brown flowers from early autumn onwards. Grow this deciduous variety in well-drained sun-baked borders or plant it up in a pot as part of your container gardening ideas. The expected height is 1.2m.

Where to buy miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’:

• Crocus - from £11.99
• RHS - from £11.99
• Gardener's Dream - from £17.99

10. Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’ 

An eye-catching small ornamental grass that forms cascades of arching yellow leaves lined with green that light up areas in semi-shade. When the plant is fully grown, it often develops an attractive reddish tinge.

This grass can be used to soften the edges of garden paths or steps, and also looks great in modern urban planters. It should be planted in well-drained, moist soil in sun or semi-shade, and has an expected height of 40cm.

Where to buy hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’:

• B&Q - from £10.99
• Thompson & Morgan - from £12.99
• Gardening Express - from £14.95

11. Panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’ 

An upright mass of blue-green leaves that develop stunning red and damson tones in autumn, topped by a haze of light and airy flowers.

Try planting it in small clumps among taller grasses, or against a background of tall perennials. This deciduous grass thrives in well-drained soil in a sunny position, and can grow up to 90cm in height.

Where to buy panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’:

• Crocus - from £9.99
• RHS - from £9.99

12. Imperata cylindrica ‘Rubra’

The spectacular blood-red spikes of this ornamental grass are the star of the show when added to mixed borders or shown off in a container.

The green and red leaves morph to bold, translucent ruby, which is eye-catching in late summer. This grass can be slow to establish and may need winter protection in cold areas. It's a deciduous grass for well-drained soil in the sun, and has a height of 50cm.

Where to buy imperata cylindrica ‘Rubra’:

• Suttons - from £4
• Dobies - from £4
• Crocus - from £11.99

13. Miscanthus sinensis ‘Ferner Osten’ 

The clumps of green leaves take on wonderful copper and crimson tints in autumn, and the plume-like dark-red flower panicles emerge in summer and age to silvery-pink.

This is one of the showiest types of ornamental grass that can be used as a stand-alone specimen or to add drama to autumn borders. It's a deciduous grass for well-drained soil in the sun, with a height of 1.5m.

Where to buy miscanthus sinensis ‘Ferner Osten’:

• RHS - from £19.99
• Amazon - from £26.99
• B&Q - from £33.99

14. Anemanthele lessoniana (syn. Stipa arundinacea)

Also known as pheasant's tail, this is one of the best types of ornamental grass as it adds year-round colour, movement and structure to the garden.

The tufts of thin arching green leaves develop orange and bronze tints in autumn and winter. This colouring becomes even more intense the colder it gets, making a stunning addition to your winter garden. It's an evergreen grass for well-drained soil in the sun or semi-shade, with a height of 75cm.

Where to buy anemanthele lessoniana (syn. Stipa arundinacea):

• Crocus - from £9.99
• RHS - from £9.99
• Dobies - from £29.99

15. Molinia caerulea subsp. arundinacea 'Skyracer'

A columnar purple moor grass that forms shuttlecocks of slender foliage that turns a lovely golden colour in autumn.

This variety provides nectar and pollen for bees and other types of pollinating insects, making it great for introducing biodiversity to your garden. This deciduous grass is for well-drained, open, sunny borders, and has an expected height of 2m.

16. Stipa ichu (syn. Jarava ichu) 

The graceful Peruvian feather grass has thin green leaves topped with arching silver-ivory flower plumes, and makes an impressive addition to any flowerbed.

It turns a lovely shade of gold in autumn and adds colour in the winter too. It is a semi-evergreen grass for well-drained south-facing borders, with a height of 80cm.

What are the key ornamental grasses for sound?

Ornamental grasses earn their place in the garden by providing enchanting sound when the wind blows. They can be a brilliant addition to a sensory garden as the gentle noise they make will create a soothing, relaxing effect.

Some of the best for this are the zebra grasses, such as miscanthus sinensis ‘Strictus’ (available from Suttons), which rustle on the breeze. M. sacchariflorus has long, thick, lush leaves on tall stems, creating an exotic jungle look.

What are the best types of ornamental grass for encouraging wildlife?

If your priority is filling your plot with wildlife garden ideas, opt for native grasses and mix them into borders with nectar-rich perennials, such as butterfly-friendly liatris, verbena, and eupatorium.

When it comes to choosing the right type of ornamental grass for your garden, you'll need to think about factors such as how much sunlight and shade is available, the soil texture and acidity, and how large the plant may grow and spread. Grasses are a popular garden trend but make sure you check the plant details carefully before selecting your final choice.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

If you're enamoured by that romantic, English countryside charm, these cottage garden path ideas are just what you need for your outdoor space.

Cottage gardens are all about billowing borders, layers of soft blooms, and higgledy-piggledy informality, so the perfect path will need to follow suit. Not only will they make getting from A to B a joy, but they will allow you to admire (and reach) all aspects of your garden, too.

From tiny, lavender-lined walkways to show-stopping canopies, you'll be sure to find a look you'll love.

1. Line cottage garden walkways with stone walls

Dry stone walls are built without mortar, and can be seen throughout rural Britain, in areas such as the Cotswolds or the Lake District. The popularity of the craft stems back to the 18th century, where builders would use local stone of various sizes to create boundaries for land or livestock.

Today, they are a beautiful addition to a cottage garden, due to their rustic and traditional look. And, as seen here, they look fabulous lining a garden path and topped with masses of classic cottage style blooms, such as lavender and Digitalis.

You can also introduce flowers and foliage to the garden wall itself. Erigeron, for example, would make a beautiful addition with its soft mounds of small pinkish-white daisies. Erigeron karvinskianus, available from Crocus, will introduce informal blooms to your garden from late spring through to autumn.

2. Edge a cottage garden path with foxgloves

Foxgloves' striking stature and pleasing colours of white, deep pinks, pale lilac and even peach and yellow make them a must-have for cottage gardens. What's more, some varieties will thrive in shaded areas, so they're a perfect choice if your plot doesn't catch much sun. They will attract bees and butterflies aplenty, too.

Look for perennial kinds (rather than biennial), for blooms year-on-year. Digitalis purpurea 'Sutton's Apricot' from Crocus has delicate soft orange/pink blooms and can sometimes be a perennial, while Digitalis × fulva Arctic Fox Rose, also from Crocus, is a semi-evergreen perennial that offers long-lasting blooms from the first year.

3. Create an arched pathway through an evergreen hedge

If you'd love to bring an essence of discovery into your plot, then this idea is for you.

True, not everyone has a well-established evergreen yew hedge such as this, waiting to be transformed into a wondrous archway (if you don't, take a look at our best fast-growing hedges to start one of your own). But if you do, why not grab your hedge trimmer and try out your topiary skills?

It's a beautiful way to connect different zones of your plot, and we love the pretty flagstone path beneath. Just remember that hard pruning such as this is best to be done in mid-winter, when shrubs are semi-dormant.

4. Add a rose-covered arbour above your path

To instantly update your cottage garden path and add a good dose of romance, consider installing an arbour. These structures tend to be smaller than pergolas, so are perfect for framing a point in your path to help divide areas.

Try using stunning plants to clamber up the structure, offering beautiful colour and fragrance. Honeysuckle also makes a particularly lovely choice. The RHS recommends 'Serotina' (available from Gardening Express) for its gorgeous fragrance, rapid growth, and deep reddish-purple colouring.

If you opt for a wooden arbour, you could always give it a lick of paint too, to complement the rest of your theme. We love the faded blue colour of this example. Why not give our best exterior wood paint suggestions a try?

5. Place a focal point at the end of your path

Your cottage garden might have a selection of different types of pathways. Some may be smaller and more secretive, and wind indulgently amongst borders or along the back of hedges. Some, however, may be grander and more primarily-positioned.

For these larger pathways, why not up the sense of old English charm and place a stone statue or large, vintage urn at the end? Eyes will instantly be drawn to the new focal point, and it will add a feeling of depth and timeless style.

Borders full of cottage garden plants as well as clipped hedges are perfect path edging ideas, making for a bountiful vista full of life and colour.

6. Use reclaimed bricks for your cottage garden path

We love this example of a miniature path surrounding a neat lawn. Made of reclaimed bricks, it has a wonderfully laid-back feel.

Not only does it look lovely, but it also provides a way around the grass during wet or snowy weather, to prevent the lawn from becoming damaged or muddy. Plus, it also doubles up as a mowing strip, by keeping the lush border plants in their place and safely out of the way. A win-win on all accounts.

7. Create a Laburnum canopy over your pathway

Laburnum offers an enchanting display of bright yellow blooms come spring and early summer, and looks exceptionally stunning when trained over a walkway, as demonstrated above. It's a show-stopping addition to any cottage garden path and will delight anyone who strolls beneath it.

If you have a smaller garden, the 'Yellow Rocket' variety from Gardening Express is a good choice due to its narrow, upright habit. Otherwise, the RHS-award-winning Laburnum x watereri ‘Vossii’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) is a well-favoured, fast-growing variety with long flower racemes and dark green foliage.

However, do bear in mind that Laburnum, although beautiful, is very poisonous. So, if you have young children who may be tempted to put the plant in their mouths, or you are looking for suitable dog-friendly garden ideas, then it may be wise to opt for an alternative solution for your cottage garden path.

8. Use a mosaic of natural stones

Cottage gardens are all about reclaimed materials and making use of what you have, without having to spend lots of money. So, to recreate the look, opt for mix-matched stones in your pathways, arranged in an eclectic, mosaic pattern.

It will add a wonderfully authentic and relaxed feel to your plot. And, if any moss appears in the cracks, the wilder, romantic feel will only be enhanced (but do be careful if it becomes slippery).

See if you can find reclaimed paving stones made from natural materials locally, or online. Don't forget to finish the scene with a pretty bench and deep borders crammed with plants, for a perfect cottage garden vibe.

Adding a garden wall made from reclaimed bricks can also be a great way to introduce more character to your space.

9. Include offset paving for a playful cottage garden pathway

Cottage gardens should feel relaxed and playful. So, why not arrange your stone paving stones in a hopscotch pattern? It's a simple trick that will instantly add a sense of carefree joy to your garden, and prevent your pathways from feeling overly formal.

Children and adults alike will love stepping from stone to stone, whilst taking in all the nearby flowers and foliage. Combining it with a gravel garden idea, as seen above, will introduce extra textural interest. Include subtle edging to keep the borders distinct and the gravel in place.

10. Make stepping stones from logs for a natural feel

If you loved the stepping stone idea above but would like a slightly more natural feel, then how about using logs instead? Arranged in a gentle curve, it's a wonderful way to add a feeling of adventure and will blend beautifully with surrounding flowers and greenery.

Bark chippings will add to the rustic effect and define the pathway more clearly, plus, if you have little ones, they are softer to fall onto than paving.

11. Surround pathway steps with roses

If you have a sloping garden, you most probably have steps. So, don't forget to give them the cottage garden makeover, too.

This can be as simple as to border them in roses, as seen here. Or, you could try other cottage garden favourites, such as Salvias or hollyhocks.

If there's no room for borders but your steps are wide, you could also add a few terracotta pots, planted up with easy annuals such as Cosmos or poppies. Your steps will instantly feel more enchanting – just make sure the pots are pushed to one side, and not in the way during nighttime wanders.

12. Add miniature pathways to your cottage garden

Even the smallest paths can be full of charm. Try adding narrow, winding walkways between your flowerbeds with whatever rubble you can find – this one above is made with old pieces of slate. It will enable to you to admire your blooms from all angles and offer a fresh perspective on your plot, as well as making maintenance much easier.

Bordering with fragranced flowers will only add to the magic. "Lavender is a classic cottage garden favourite," says Beth Murton, editor of Homebuilding & Renovating. "One of my favourite varieties of lavender is the ever popular 'Hidcote' (available at Crocus). It flowers all summer and has a beautiful fragrance, so I have it close to my patio where I can really get to enjoy its scent. I also love how it attracts all the bees."

FAQs

What materials can I use to create a cottage garden path?

There are lots of options when it comes to what materials to use to create a cottage garden path. You can find a handy list of suggestions below:

1. Try using reclaimed bricks – the more weathered-looking, the better.
2. Gravel made from a local stone is an affordable choice, and can look very attractive.
3. Bark chippings add a rustic charm, and can often be obtained for very little cost (or even free). Ask your local tree surgeon or have a look online.
4. For larger paths, paving made from natural stone with a riven finish will add a softer look than glossier styles.
5. Use leftover stone or rubble from past building projects to create a mismatched pathway full of eclectic charm.
6. B&Q offers ingenious carpet stones. These have the effect of traditional cobbles, but each stone is pre-laid on a flexible mat which can be cut to shape. A brilliant solution for odd-shaped plots or those with little time to spare.

As a final idea, if you have a larger garden, perhaps you are lucky enough to have a tucked away area full of established trees or tall shrubs. If that's the case, then it's the perfect place to add winding paths that are simply mown from lawn.

It makes a lovely alternative to harder garden landscaping ideas, plus the heavy dose of green will enchant any who wander down the walkway, and it will be a delight underfoot come summer.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Even if you don't live in a cottage, there's something universally appealing about cottage garden ideas. Informal and more traditional in style, they're a space where flowers and voluptuous borders generally steal the show.

Romantic, whimsical and with an 'anything goes' attitude, traditional cottage gardens would have been full of edible plants and even livestock, whereas today, they tend to favour wildflower planting and natural materials to create a space bursting with colour and texture.

And, if you're the owner of a small, urban garden, don't be discouraged. You don’t have to live in a picture-postcard thatched cottage in the English countryside for this type of garden design. The look can work just as well on a smaller scale for a flower-filled city garden too.

1. Introduce tall features to give the impression of space

Whatever garden style you're going for, it's always wise to consider the vertical space. Using plants and features of different heights helps to create interest at all levels for a fuller, more impactful display.

Obelisks are a good structural feature that suit a cottage garden well – whether placed in a large container or amongst other blooms in a deep border. Perfect for climbing plants, sculptures like this can provide height and character, as can the trees such as birch. Just make sure you follow the guidelines regarding which trees should be pruned in spring.

We also like the use of Corten steel in this small plot – for both the garden edging and the central water feature. It brings warmth and contrast against the pale gravel, as well as structural appeal.

This Nicoman 5m Corten Lawn Edging from Amazon will give you a similar look.

2. Create shapes with topiary-trimmed trees and hedges

Topiary is tons of fun to play around with, and not too tricky with a bit of practice. In a cottage garden, give yourself a head start by planting the fastest growing hedges, and then try using neatly clipped evergreens to provide a sense of structure against all the lush blooms – whether they're framing a doorway, lining a cottage path, or containing a raised bed.

There are all kinds of shapes to try, from cones to clouds. Here, a cottage garden patio is kept simple yet elegant with the white flowers – including lupins, a cottage-garden classic – contrasting against the shades of green.

3. Use natural materials for an authentic cottage garden feel

Cottage gardens take a relaxed feel in comparison to sleek, contemporary modern garden ideas. A great way to enhance this vibe is to add handmade features, made from natural materials, into the mix.

For instance, garden edging made from woven hazel has an artisanal appeal and is perfect for putting alongside borders to subtly contain all the flowers within. We love the laid-back curves used here too, for that softer look.

4. Go for easy-grow perennials

There are tons of perennials that make perfect choices for cottage-style, low maintenance gardens. Think hardy geraniums, for starters. They're ideal for pollinators and available in a wide range of stunning varieties from the prolific purple 'Rozanne' to the elegant 'Kashmir White'.

Other plants that will come back year after year include nepeta with its spikes of violet blooms and aromatic foliage, as well as Alchemilla mollis with its pleasingly scalloped leaves and lime-yellow flowers. As demonstrated above, they make a delightful summer duo for the border, especially with a rambling rose as a backdrop.

Although you may be tempted to fill a cottage-style garden with every plant you can find, it might be wise to hold back ever so slightly. "Make a list of the plants you want to include, then go back over the list and tick the ones you most want," says garden designer Fi Boyle. "You may be a self-confessed 'plantaholic' like me, and simply want everything, but it is definitely best to limit the palette. Less is more, as the saying goes.

"By having groups of the same plant repeated through a border you create a rhythm which helps the border to hang together and feel less busy," she adds.

5. Position a bird bath amongst the cottage garden blooms

Cottage gardens are a celebration of vibrant colours and life, so why not encourage feathered friends to pay a visit to your plot?

One way to do so is to think of ways to bring birds into your garden, such as introducing a bird bath amongst your borders – old stone designs will fit right into the theme and provide a visual focal point. What's more, watching the birds flit to and fro as they take a drink or wash their wings will bring delight to any onlooker.

We love how this design has been surrounded by hot-hued blooms – including the likes of marigolds and geums.

6. Create an air of mystery with hidden gateways

Garden gates come in all shapes and sizes, but more traditional-looking designs can make lovely additions to cottage-style plots. This wooden one is a good example with its classic metal detailing, but picket-style looks work well, too.

Punctuating an old stone wall and surrounded by plenty of climbing plants and luscious borders, it adds a real sense of intrigue to the scene. If you're looking to separate garden 'rooms' or simply provide a greater sense of security from the outside world, then this is definitely an idea to consider.

7. Make a kitchen garden area

Traditionally, the purpose of the cottage garden was to grow staple produce like peas, beans, cabbages, onions, leeks and carrots, but also a wide array of herbs used in cooking and for medicinal purposes.

So, for a true cottage-garden feel, grow produce amongst the flowers in whatever space you have. If you have the luxury of more space, dedicated raised garden beds could be created in a sunny south-facing area so you have a vegetable garden patch to help feed your family.

8. Embrace classic charm with a greenhouse

Grow-your-own zones don't have to be well-tamed in a cottage garden – wilder looks are all part of the charm. However, you can still opt for a smarter style if you prefer, while sticking to the theme. Just take a cue from this scene above.

A variety of plants along with a wooden bistro-style table and chairs in front of this traditional style greenhouse all offer a country-classic vibe that still feels laid-back. As well as using your greenhouse to grow your favourite veggies and herbs, try training sweet peas up a home-made support of sticks for a shot of irresistible colour and scent. Or, have a go at espaliering a fruit tree for an autumn harvest – it's a great approach if you're a little short on space.

This glorious greenhouse also not only looks the part, but will be hugely practical when colder weather comes around.

9. Create a tucked-away retreat in your cottage garden

Tempted by garden room ideas? A calm and quiet retreat amongst the flowers is a lovely addition for any garden, so why not introduce one to a cottage-style plot?

We love how this ornate design can be spotted through the generous flower beds in front, which only add to its sense of privacy. Add a comfy sofa or chair inside, a small table, and perhaps a vase of freshly- cut blooms as a finishing flourish – it'll be your new favourite spot before you know it.

Add something larger and you could even find yourself with a garden office as your work from home solution.

10. Add a pretty arbor for secluded seating

Good cottage garden ideas need to include somewhere to sit, so that all those flowers can be appreciated fully.

A pretty bench – wooden or metal – will do the job just fine, especially when kitted out with a ditsy-patterned cushion or two. But, for a more sheltered approach, consider opting for a garden arbor insted.

This blue-hued design has got us head-over-heels, and of course, the climbing rose only elevates the look further. Tuck it to the side of your plot in a sunny spot for a real destination point.

11. Include hanging baskets in your cottage garden scheme

By now, you'll know the importance of flowers in a cottage garden. But, if space is at a premium, it can be tricky to create that sumptuous look whilst still being able to use the area for seating and entertaining.

Enter hanging baskets – a fabulous way to utilise the vertical space in a garden – whether you have a small courtyard, patio, or even just a balcony.

Fill with colourful summer favourites such as petunias, pelargoniums and lobelia. Then, hang from a bracket, a hook, or even your garden fences for an instant pick-me-up for your plot. Don't forget that you can switch them up as the seasons change, too – heather and cyclamen make a lovely pairing for autumn containers, for instance.

Head to Crocus for not only a wide range of hanging baskets, but also the right plants to place in them.

12. Opt for a relaxed feel with curves and patio planting

While formal gardens were laid out with parterres and terraces, traditional cottage garden layouts would have been much less predetermined. There would have been little space for lawn and no hard surfacing.

To capture the romance of a classic cottage garden, even if you want to include hard landscaping for paths or patio ideas, try to avoid straight lines and instead, factor in plenty of deep, curved borders for planting. Curved landscaping always creates a more natural and relaxed feel that allows you to meander along pathways through the flower beds.

Throw in a seemingly haphazard planting area and water feature in the middle of the brick paving, and it's suddenly a far more natural setting.

13. Set the scene with your front garden

Cottage garden ideas aren't just for gardens at the rear of your house. Why not set the scene with your front garden ideas, too? If you're lucky enough to live in a period property such as this, billowing borders of soft flowers will provide the perfect setting to complement the architecture.

But, even for modern houses, a cottage-style front garden will provide a wonderful welcome for you and your guests.

14. Create a meadow-like feel that's pollinator friendly

Historically, the quintessential cottage garden would have evolved slowly and planting would have had no strict plan.

Self-seeders were welcomed and plants were propagated from cuttings. They would have also been gifted by neighbours and perhaps collected from the native countryside (although the latter may get you in a spot of trouble nowadays). All would have been planted in whatever space was available, with little thought to hierarchy or height, which resulted in a magical jumble of shape and colour.

It's a garden trend we're returning too, with many garden designers embracing the meadow-style look in all or part of their landscaping plans. It's also relatively easy to achieve, says Dr Emily Attlee, conservation scientist and co-founder of Seedball.

"Creating a pollinator-friendly garden doesn’t require a complete redesign or lots of space. One of the simplest and most effective changes you can make is to grow wildflowers. Not only are they lovely to look at, but they’re rich in pollen and nectar, providing vital food for bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects.

"Even small spaces can make a difference," she says, "from a patch of lawn left to grow a little wild with buttercups, dandelions and daisies, to pots, planters or window boxes filled with colourful cornflowers, campion and musk mallow. Growing a selection of wildflowers can quickly turn everyday spaces into valuable feeding spots, and become a lifeline for local wildlife."

Find a seedball mix for your cottage garden

15. Include meandering pathways in your cottage garden

Keep embracing that relaxed feel with it comes to planning your garden path ideas.

For cottage garden paths, it's best to avoid geometrical, rigid materials like square paving, and instead, try materials that are softer on the eye. Think, for example, a gravel path lined with reclaimed bricks that have a worn patina, or a design like this, which combines bricks with bark chippings.

You could even weave in plants that like gravel gardens amongst a wider path for an even greater wild garden feel.

16. Add cottage garden romance with roses

'"Arguably, no cottage garden summer would be complete without roses and their perfume," says the RHS, and we agree – a rose garden is perfect for that cottage-style look.

With their abundance of pretty floral sprays, climbing or rambling roses are brilliant for softening harsh walls or fences. And, they can be used to bring height and structure when grown over an arch or obelisk. The RHS suggests 'Madame Alfred Carriere' with its creamy-coloured, repeat-flowering blooms. Or if you like to give your outdoor space a celebrity edge, this is the rose that David Beckham loves.

Alternatively, choose shrub or bush roses for borders, or if space is tight you can grow them in pots, too.

17. Paint gates in pretty pastel colors

Add extra charm to your cottage garden by painting gates, woodwork and even wooden furniture in soft, muted colours such as pale greens and blues, or gentle pinks.

These types of shades work well with pretty cottage garden planting and will add another layer of interest to your garden scheme. To get started, take a look at the best fence paints in our buying guide.

18. Frame your front door with flowers

Admittedly, unless of course you're undertaking a cottage renovation, most of us aren't lucky enough to live in a charming thatched cottage such as this. But you can still give your house similar kerb appeal by growing hollyhocks along the front of your garden or by the front door.

Showcasing jolly spires of colour in summer, hollyhocks like light, well-drained soil – which is why they are often found close to houses. It's thought that before homes were built with damp-proof courses, hollyhocks would often be grown close to cottages to help take up the water.

19. Choose traditional furniture to suit a cottage garden

After all your hard work in the garden, it's important to have somewhere that you can sit back and enjoy the view.

Classic furniture such as metal bistro sets, or wooden benches are firm go-to choices to suit cottage garden schemes. Nestle furniture in amongst the planting to soften the effect, and stick to natural finishes or colours such as pale greens, pinks and blues to help them blend in with the background.

You want your planting to be the star of the show rather than a bright and bold item of furniture that could detract from your beautiful blooms.

This pretty Argos Home Genoa 2 Seater Metal Garden Bistro Set, with its pink and white tiled chair inset and tabletop design is the perfect candiate for your cottage garden ideas.

20. Mix up your planters for an eclectic look

Traditionally, the cottage garden was a humble space worked for necessity and crops would have been grown in anything that came to hand. To capture the quirky charm, think outside the box and reuse unwanted containers as garden planters – just ensure you drill holes in the bottom so that the soil can drain freely.

Use whatever you can find and line them up along a path for a characterful scene. It can also be a good way of embracing a more sustainable approach and a way of making your cottage garden more eco-friendly too. Check out these ways to re-use brick in a garden as well, which could provide inspiration if you have renovation materials left-over.

21. Get creative with colour schemes

Fi Boyle shares her expert advice when it comes to colours in cottage garden style planting. "Think about the colour scheme and decide what you want," she says.

"Do you want a hot border filled with oranges, yellows and reds, or do you want softer colours such as blues through to purple, with hints of pinks and white?" Sticking to a specific range for your colour schemes will add an enchanting, yet cohesive feel to your plot, so give it a try.

22. Decorate a garden shed with vintage finds

What better way to make the most of your garden than a little garden shed hideaway tucked away that you can retreat to with a good book?

Brighten up the interior with a lick of paint, and furnish with a couple of comfy armchairs. In the make-do-and-mend spirit of a cottage garden, use the structure to support rambling plants which will also help soften the building.

23. Screen your cottage garden with a stone wall

Stone garden wall ideas make lovely additions to cottage gardens, for a timeless, countryside look. It also provides a useful divider between 'rooms' of your garden, or for added privacy and shelter.

You can plant it up with foliage, succulents, moss, and even tumbling flowers such as erigeron, for a softer, fairytale-like feel.

24. Embellish benches with floral cushions and throws 

When it comes to accessories for cottage garden ideas, floral fabrics are your friend. From outdoor cushions to throws and rugs, choose designs in soft pastel shades and pretty patterns to add interest to your space.

Natural materials such as cotton, linen and bamboo will be soft to touch and in keeping with the natural country vibe.

Wondering how to start your cottage garden ideas if you're only just beginning? Start with a plan, says Fi Boyle, and use something such as your borders to start defining your space.

"Where are your borders going to go, what shape are they going to be? Then, think about the aspect of the border – in other words, which way does it face? You can assess how much sun it will get or if the border is in shade most of the day,' says Fi. This will help you choose which plants go where.

"Do you know what the pH of the soil is?" she continues. "If not, do a test as some plants are fussy about the type of soil they grow in." You may need to research more if you need plants for clay soils for example.

Once you've got a plan, you can then start sowing your seeds. Annuals such as poppies, cosmos or zinnias are lovely in a cottage garden. Perennials like scabious or penstemons are also beautiful additions and will get bigger and better every year. You can usually plant them from small pots bought from the garden centre. Also make sure you have your garden irrigation plans in place to keep your cottage garden healthy all-year-round.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Introducing water to a garden brings lots of benefits, and by choosing the best pond plants, you can create a precious habitat that is both beautiful to look at and wildlife-friendly.

You should aim to have about two-thirds of your pond planted. This could include a mixture of plants: some which thrive at the pond’s edges, species which prefer the shallows, as well as deeper-water plants and those that float on the surface.

With a bit of knowledge, it is possible to create a magical garden pond idea, however large or small your water feature might be. Keeping reading for our edit of the best pond plants and how to care for them.

1. Yellow flag iris (iris pseudacorus)

Yellow flag iris are marginal plants that work best if you have a larger pond in your garden design. They are easy to grow and will provide lots of buttery yellow flowers from late spring. You should divide the rhizomes every two years after the plant finishes flowering in June.

Where to buy yellow flag iris:

• Suttons - from £10.99
• Thompson & Morgan - from £10.99
• Amazon - from £11.99
• B&Q - £15

2. Water forget-me-not (myosotis scorpioides)

Water forget-me-not is another easy-to-grow plant for pond margins. It has clusters of tiny blue flowers with yellow centres that bloom on low-growing foliage, helping to hide unsightly pond liners and soften hard lines.

It is best grown in water no deeper than 5cm, and the flowering time is from May to September.

Where to buy water forget-me-not:

• Thompson & Morgan - from £12.99
• Amazon - from £12.99
• Suttons - from £12.99
• B&Q - from £22.49

3. Frogbit (hydrocharis morsus-ranae) 

Frogbit is an attractive floating plant with rounded leaves and small white flowers, each with a yellow spot on its petals. It looks a bit like water lilies, and needs to be thinned regularly to prevent it from taking over the water.

If you're keen to attract biodiversity to your garden, frogbit is helpful for providing shade for pond-dwelling creatures.

Where to buy frogbit:

• Thompson & Morgan - from £18.99
• Suttons - from £18.99
• Dobies - from £18.99
• Amazon - from £22.99

4. Waterlily (nymphaeaceae)  

A classic choice for your best pond plants list, and surely one of the prettiest floating water plants, waterlilies are available in red, yellow, pink, and white. According to Dan Reep, aquatics buyer at Squires Garden Centres, “they need lots of sun and will thrive if fed with aquatic plant food for ponds.”

He advises that waterlilies dislike having running or splashing water on their pads, so consider their placement if you’re combining them with other water feature ideas, such as a small fountain. Some varieties of waterlily may grow too large for smaller ponds, so check the dimensions carefully before choosing one.

Where to buy waterlilies:

• Dobies - from £11.99
• Thompson & Morgan - from £11.99
• Suttons - from £14.99
• Amazon - from £16.40

5. Spiked water milfoil (myriophyllum spicatum) 

The spiked water milfoil is an oxygenating plant that can grow in deep water and remains submerged at all times. As well as contributing to healthy pond water, it provides a habitat for tadpoles and invertebrates.

It has red foliage and is a fast grower, thriving at depths from 30cm to 450cm and preferring full sun or partial shade.

Where to buy spiked water milfoil:

• Ebay - from £3.99
• Etsy - from £5.99

6. Marsh marigold (caltha palustris)

Also known as kingcup, marsh marigold is an attractive marginal plant with vivid buttercup-like flowers on upright stems. This pond plant will attract bees, hoverflies, and butterflies, making it a great choice if you want to create an eco-friendly garden.

It is happy in wet mud or in up to 10cm of water above the plant crown, and should be sited in a sunny spot inside a basket to contain its growth.

Where to buy marsh marigold:

• B&Q - from £9.99
• Etsy - from £7.95
• Amazon - from £13.99
• Crocus - from £24.99

7. Water crowfoot (ranunculus aquatilis)

Water crowfoot is a very effective oxygenator, with leaves that grow both under and above the water. From April to June, it produces masses of pretty, small white and yellow flowers on mats of leaves, along with feathery fronds that grow beneath the surface. If you decide to give it a go, plant it at a depth of 15 to 60cm.

Where to buy water crowfoot:

• Etsy - from £5.50
• Amazon - from £11.29
• Crocus - from £22.99
• Bradshaws Direct - from £10.82

8. Golden club (orontium aquaticum)

The golden club is a sculptural, deep-water perennial plant with blue-green floating leaves and white pencil-shaped stalks with yellow tips in spring. This pond plant is valuable for keeping the water clear.

It should be planted in a large pond basket to contain its growth, and the flowers should be cut back if they become overgrown. It thrives at depths of around 40cm and in full sun.

Where to buy golden club:

• Thompson & Morgan (via Amazon) - £17.99
• Dobies - from £22.99
• Crocus - from £24.99

9. Water smartweed (amphibious bistort)

Water smartweed has dark green floating leaves and upright, pink, bottle-brush-shaped flowers on sturdy stems up to 30cm tall. They bloom from midsummer to autumn and, once established, grow quickly and vigorously, thriving in water depths of up to 80cm.

Where to buy water smartweed:

• Suttons - from £12.99
• Thompson & Morgan - £12.99
• B&Q - from £15.99

10. Scarlet monkey flower (mimulus cardinalis)

Scarlet monkey flower has masses of tubular, orange-red flowers that bloom from summer to late autumn. It thrives in sunny conditions and is one of the easiest plants to grow in your garden pond.

If it becomes too large, trim it back during the growing season or remove the seed heads to encourage more flowers.

Where to buy scarlet monkey flower:

• B&Q - from £9.99
• Suttons - from £12.99
• Thompson & Morgan - from £12.99
• Amazon - from £15.99

FAQs

When should you plant pond plants? 

According to the RHS, the ideal time to plant the best pond plants is between mid-spring and early summer, when the water is warming up and plants are more likely to establish well.

How do I plant pond plants?

In small ponds, plants should ideally be grown in containers to stop them from growing too large and taking over the space. These containers are often called aquatic baskets and have lattice work sides to allows water, air, and other gases to flow freely.

1. Line the containers with a porous fabric, such as hessian, and use a medium to heavy loam compost. The RHS advises that garden soil can be used, so long as it is free from fertilisers and herbicides. Specialist aquatic compost is available from Amazon or garden centres.
2. Add a few heavy pebbles to stop the containers from floating, and part fill with compost.
3. Plants should be sunk to the depth of their original container, unless they are rhizomes, in which case they should peek just over the surface of the soil. Firm in well. 
4. Some oxygenating plants can simply be dropped into the water. 

How many oxygenating plants do I need for my pond? 

In a new pond, a good guide is to aim for adding three bunches of oxygenating plants per square metre.

What sort of wildlife will my pond plants attract? 

According to Dan Reep, "ponds attract wildlife into your garden very quickly, and provide great habitats for wildlife, such as fish, amphibians and invertebrates. Submerged plants produce oxygen and provide shade for aquatic life, such as newts and frogs." It will also attract birds to drink and bathe throughout the year.

What are the best pond plants for a small pond? 

Dwarf waterlilies and water hyacinths are both floating plants that serve as excellent choices for small ponds. Corkscrew rush is an attractive, grassy marginal that remains manageable, while creeping jenny softens edges with a mat of foliage without exceeding 7cm in height.

For a submerged option, try anacharis, which consists of long stems with feathery foliage.

What are the different type of pond plants? 

There are five main types of aquatic plants, so bear this in mind if you're learning how to build a garden pond and want to make sure you're choosing the best plants for your design. It's a good idea to have a mix of different varieties.

• Bog plants are moisture-loving plants which sit at the perimeter of the pond. They are not strictly defined as aquatic plants, but they do like to have permanently wet roots, and they are valuable in helping to define the shape of a pond. They are usually planted at a depth of 0-15cm.
• Marginal plants grow in shallow water, rising up above it. Their roots need to be completely underwater. The planting depth is 0-15cm.
• Deep marginal plants will emerge and flower above the water. Their planting depth is 15-40cm. 
• Deep water and oxygenating plants are crucial for a healthy pond. They might float on top of the water, stick out slightly, or be completely submerged. "They are very valuable as they absorb nutrients from the water which can prevent nuisance algae from growing, keeping your water clean and clear," explains Dan Reep. The planting depth is over 40cm.
• Floating plants sit on the surface of the pond. Their roots hang in the water. They are generally low maintenance and will provide shade for fish, and a handy place for pond wildlife to sit.

Putting together your selection of the plants for ponds is a bit like choosing a regular border design. It is always a good idea to mix textures, leaf sizes and foliage tones and shapes for variety, whilst including the all-important oxygenators in the water.

"If you have a pond then you really should have pond plants," concludes Dan Reep. "They help create and maintain a healthy, balanced ecosystem, and they play a large role in keeping your pond in good condition."

For more expert advice, read our guide on the latest garden trends or how to zone a garden.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Learning how to attract birds into your garden can be exciting and rewarding – and giving them a helping hand can be invaluable in protecting declining species.

Getting outside and identifying bird varieties is a fun activity for the whole family, and you’d be surprised at how many can be found in your garden. Depending on what food you put out for our feathered friends, or what habitats your garden design has to offer, you could spot a goldfinch, blue tit, robin redbreast, and many more.

Below, you'll find out how to identify the most common species of bird and ways to make your garden a welcoming environment for them.

How do I attract birds to my garden?

To attract birds into your garden, ornithologist Dr Mya-Rose Craig and UK Pet Food recommend hanging several classic bird feeders around different parts of your garden, along with a small amount of food scattered on the ground (just be mindful not to leave out food that could be toxic to your pets).

She says, "High energy food is always good for birds, but remember different birds eat different foods. Consider a range of foods; seeds, peanuts, fats, and mealworms, remembering that this doesn’t replace their natural diet, but supplements it in order to help them.

"Meat-based products, such as suet and insects, are excellent for female breeding birds, so it is recommended that these continue to be fed in summer.”

Just remember to keep your bird feeders clean and place them somewhere sheltered, away from potential predators. You may also want to install a birdbath, which should be filled with clean water.

"Trees and hedges will help any bird visitors feel safe, especially while using any bird feeders you may have out," adds Martin Chaplin, head of horticulture at Hedges Direct.

"Hedges make excellent spaces for birds, especially when designed and maintained with them in mind. The more plant species you have in your hedge, the more bird species you are likely to attract." This is one of the reasons you shouldn't trim your hedges in the spring.

How do I attract goldfinches to my garden?

These beauties bring vibrant colour to our gardens – you can spot them by looking out for their unmistakable golden-brown plumage, yellow wing patches, splashes of black, and bright red faces.

In your garden, they will search out thistles, teasels, and dandelions to extract the seeds with their tweezer-like bills. Keep an eye high in the trees, as that is where they will nest. They use grass, moss, and wool to build their homes, with a few flowers for decoration.

How do I attract house sparrows to my garden?

Noisy and outgoing, these cheery little birds can be found almost everywhere, from the centres of cities to farmland. So whether you're out for a walk in the country, in a local park or just in your own back garden, keep an eye out for these small light brown birds.

They like to nest in holes and crevices of buildings and readily use nest boxes. They eat seeds and scraps and will appreciate sunflower hearts and suet balls in feeders and on tables.

Think twice before blocking up any ‘irksome’ holes in buildings, where they would usually nest in colonies. Alternatively, why not build a ‘sparrow street’ of nest boxes and mount them under the eaves of your home?

How do I attract robins to my garden?

The robin, with its distinctive red breast, wears the crown of being Britain’s favourite bird. Provide an open-fronted nest box and watch them line it with leaves, grass, moss, roots and human hair, ready for egg laying. Avoid providing whole peanuts, fat and bread – all of which can choke chicks.

If you manage to keep very quiet and get a good peek at them, look at the brown marking on the robin’s forehead. In females, it’s likely to be V-shaped; in males, U-shaped.

How do I attract blue tits to my garden?

Hyperactive little birds, blue tits have striking feathers: a pale grey and white tail and wings, with a green-blue back and mantle. Their heads are predominantly white with a blue cap, dark blue collar and chin, plus a black eye stripe.

They happily nest in man-made boxes and feed on caterpillars, suet and fat balls. Avoid putting out food that has mesh or netting around it – their beaks and feet can get trapped and cause severe injury or death.

How do I attract greenfinch birds to my garden?

Its twittering song and splash of yellow and green as it flies make the greenfinch a colourful character. Where there’s a tree or bush, there are likely to be greenfinches, although sadly fewer than there used to be.

The female looks brown, but when she flies off you’ll see the yellow in her tail and wings. Greenfinches mainly eat nuts and seeds, and especially enjoy sunflower seeds and hearts, peanuts, and nyjer seed.

How do I attract blackbirds to my garden?

Male blackbirds live up to their name but, confusingly, the females are more brown. Male blackbirds are also easily recognised by their striking orange beaks and eye rings. They breed from March to July and can have up to four sets of chicks. Their nests are usually found low down in places like trees or shrubs but they also nest on buildings and occasionally even on the ground.

Their nests are a ‘cup’ shape and take two weeks to complete. They are master builders and the nests need to be strong enough to cope with their four broods! Blackbirds are great at pulling big juicy worms out of the ground and will also eat sunflower hearts, suet cake and fruity nibbles.

How do I attract starlings to my garden?

Starlings spend much of their time in flocks. They look black from a distance, but when you get closer they are glossy, with a sheen of purples and greens. One of the most common garden birds, you will surely spot them searching for worms in the grass after a wet night.

Starlings eat most seed mixes, including sunflower hearts and suet cake, and will eat from feeders and off the ground.

How do I attract chaffinches to my garden?

As one of the most colourful garden birds, chaffinches have feathers that help them to blend in when feeding on the ground. They become most obvious in flight, revealing a flash of white on the wings and tail, which complements the pink-orange colour they’re recognised for.

They aren't huge fans of bird feeders and they prefer to hop about under bird tables or hedges. They especially enjoy sunflower hearts and black sunflower seeds.

Dr Mya-Rose concludes, “Feeding birds can be as rewarding for you as it is for them. For me, I feel that birds are my connection point to nature – even when living in urban areas – and feeding them helps me to stay grounded."

Found this useful? You may also want to learn how to make your garden eco-friendly and how to zone a garden.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

A neighbour dispute over a washing line has left a homeowner baffled after complaints were made about her garden laundry.

The new neighbour reportedly objected to the sight of the washing, claiming it was affecting her view and suggesting she could contact the council if it continued.

The row has sparked debate online about whether councils can actually take any action in situations like this, or if it is simply a matter of neighbour disagreement.

What the dispute is about

The case was shared on Mumsnet, where the homeowner described a new neighbour objecting to her outdoor washing. She said the neighbour complained that her laundry was “ruining her view” and had even taken photographs of it.

The homeowner explained: “We have a new neighbour who has complained to me about my laundry hanging on the line ruining her view. It’s just run-of-the-mill laundry, no crutchless [sic] knickers or bondage gear, so not offensive.”

She added that the neighbour later escalated the issue, saying: “At first I ignored her, but she later told me she had photographed it and would complain to council.”

The dispute has also widened beyond the washing line, with the homeowner claiming the neighbour has made other complaints about everyday noise and behaviour.

The homeowner’s defence

The homeowner said she was surprised by the complaint and insisted she was simply doing normal household laundry. She questioned whether any rules were preventing outdoor drying and sought advice from others online.

Other forum users strongly supported her, with one saying: “No, there’s no law against hanging washing and the council won’t have any interest in following up a complaint about it.”

Another added: “The council will laugh. Her email will be the subject of much humour, for weeks.”

Overall, commenters suggested the issue was a personal disagreement rather than anything requiring official intervention.

Can the council actually do anything?

In most cases, UK councils have very limited powers over washing lines in private gardens. Hanging laundry outdoors is generally legal, and there is no specific law banning it simply because a neighbour dislikes how it looks.

Councils would usually only step in if something met the threshold of a statutory nuisance under the Environmental Protection Act 1990, like with tree disputes, which covers serious and ongoing issues such as excessive noise, smoke, or smells that significantly interfere with someone’s enjoyment of their home.

A washing line alone would almost certainly not meet that threshold. In some cases, however, private housing rules or lease agreements can restrict washing in certain visible areas such as front gardens or shared communal spaces.

If a complaint is formally submitted, the council would assess it under statutory nuisance rules, though action over a washing line is considered highly unlikely.

Mary Berry outlines a practical, low-intervention approach to gardening in her book My Gardening Life, using kitchen leftovers rather than harsh chemical treatments.

Mary Berry’s guidance is especially relevant in April, when slugs, snails and aphids become more active as gardens return to full spring growth.

If you're looking to plant in April, following Mary's approach using kitchen leftovers could help protect your plants in a cost-effective and environmentally friendly way.

Crushed eggshells as a slug barrier

One of the most widely referenced Mary Berry garden pest tips is the use of crushed eggshells around plants to help deter slugs and snails.

Mary Berry highlights a simple, practical approach where the sharp, dry texture creates an uncomfortable surface for crawling pests, helping to protect young shoots and seedlings.

Mary Berry’s method also encourages gardeners to reuse kitchen waste, making it both sustainable and functional.

Coffee grounds as a natural deterrent

Another of the Mary Berry garden pest tips involves repurposing used coffee grounds as a natural barrier in the garden.

Mary Berry’s approach suggests that when sprinkled lightly around plant bases, coffee grounds can create a gritty surface that discourages slugs and other crawling insects.

Mary Berry also promotes the idea that organic waste can be returned to the soil over time, supporting healthier plant growth.

Soapy water spray for aphids

A further example within Mary Berry garden pest tips is the use of a mild soapy water spray to help manage soft-bodied insects such as aphids.

Mary Berry’s method involves applying a diluted solution carefully to affected leaves to reduce infestations without resorting to stronger chemical sprays.

Mary Berry’s guidance stresses moderation, ensuring plants are treated gently while still keeping pest numbers under control.

Mary Berry’s garden pest tips highlight a simple, sustainable approach to spring gardening, showing how everyday kitchen staples can be repurposed to protect plants naturally.

As April brings a surge in common garden pests, Mary Berry’s methods offer an accessible way for gardeners to reduce damage without relying on harsh chemical treatments.

Her emphasis on practical, low-cost solutions reflects a broader shift towards more eco-friendly gardening habits at the start of the growing season.

Pruning your hedges at the wrong time of year can be very bad news for your plants. It might seem like a job you can tackle anytime, but before you whip out the best hedge trimmer, you’ll want to hear what our expert has to say.

It turns out there are three times you should absolutely avoid cutting them – and if you don’t, it can cause stress, susceptibility to pests and diseases, or even death to the plant. With that in mind, it’s definitely worth getting clued up on when trimming hedges should and shouldn’t be done.

Below, we reveal the times of year you should avoid pruning hedges and how doing so can damage the long-term health of your plants.

When is the worst time of year to prune hedges?

According to Tim Onslow-Free, Associate Arboricultural Consultant at Tyler Grange, the worst time of the year to prune your hedges is during the spring, late autumn or a heatwave.

"Pruning should be avoided during the peak of active spring growth, when trees are diverting energy into producing new leaves and shoots. This can place them under unnecessary stress," he explains.

"Pruning in the late autumn can be damaging because it often encourages soft new growth that is highly vulnerable to frost. This is a particularly important consideration when deciding the best time to cut your hedge."

Heatwaves are also a bad time to prune your hedges as it can increase water stress.

Homebuilding's news editor, Joseph Mullane, has laurel and box hedges in his garden, which he once decided to trim during the spring. As a result, he noticed that they took much longer to grow back, likely because the plants’ growth cycles were disrupted, putting them under stress.

Can pruning at the wrong time damage my hedge?

Yes, if you prune a hedge at the wrong time, it can "significantly deplete the energy reserves," which may result in dieback. At the same time, you also expose the plant to a higher risk of pests and diseases, which may take advantage of its stressed state or enter through the pruning cuts.

"Pruning in autumn and winter increases the risk of infection because spores are most readily able to infect fresh pruning wounds at this time," adds Tom Onslow-Free.

How often should I prune my hedges?

If you’re wondering how often you should trim your hedges, Tom Onslow-Free says that little and often is the best approach.

"Extending the interval between pruning sessions increases the amount that needs to be removed at once. This leads to larger pruning cuts and a greater volume of foliage being taken off in a single session, which can place the hedge under unnecessary stress," he says.

Your hedge's health isn't the only reason to be mindful of pruning times – March to September is a key period for bird nesting, and it's important (and legally required) not to disturb them.

For more gardening advice, read our guide on which trees to prune in spring and the rules around cutting down a tree.

This April, a significant change to household recycling has taken effect in England under the government’s Simpler Recycling reforms, prompting fresh confusion about garden waste disposal.

For years many of us assumed almost anything that came from the garden could be chucked in a green or brown bin, but that assumption no longer stands.

As councils begin applying the new guidance in full, what you leave at the kerbside this spring could make all the difference.

Garden waste you can put in your garden recycling bin

Official government guidance requires councils to collect garden waste as one of the separate household waste streams from 31 March 2026, alongside food waste, dry recyclables and residual waste.

Whilst the guidance doesn’t publish a detailed item list itself, it defines the garden waste stream as organic garden material - essentially everything that is derived from plants and vegetation that can be composted under typical garden waste services.

A DEFRA spokesperson gave us a comprehensive breakdown of the kinds of plant‑based organic matter that fall within that definition:

• Grass cuttings and lawn clippings — mown grass and cleared turf trimmings
• Leaves and leaf litter — from seasonal drop or garden clearance
• Hedge and shrub trimmings — clippings from managed hedges and ornamental shrubs
• Cut flowers and spent blooms — from borders, pots or beds
• Plants and plant cuttings — removed annuals and perennial cuttings
• Weeds (non‑invasive species) — pulled or cut from beds, borders or paths
• Twigs and small branches — typically up to a modest diameter that can be composted
• Bark, brush and similar wood debris — small woody garden leftovers
• Windfall fruit (garden‑grown fruit) — unprocessed fruit from your own trees, if included as organic garden matter

All of these are examples of organic matter that belongs in the garden waste stream under the government’s definition because they are plant‑derived and appropriate for composting or organic recycling.

(Note: councils may give additional examples or restrictions in detailed guidance, but government policy itself groups these all under the “garden waste” stream that must be collected separately from food, dry recycling and residual waste.)

What cannot go in a garden recycling bin?