You might think of spring as the best time to get your ducks in a row, but I think the end of summer is just as important. With the excitement of summer plans front of mind, chores and cleaning are often left as an afterthought. But, as August progresses and thoughts start to slowly return to the months ahead, it's the perfect time to get things sorted before spending more time indoors.

If like me, you're keen to get your home in tip-top shape sooner rather than later, these are the five things you should prioritise decluttering, according to professional organisers.

1. Holiday souvenirs

Souvenirs can be a wonderful way to reminisce on summer adventures abroad, but if your drawers and cupboards are becoming clogged up with unwanted magnets, bottle openers and home decor that looked good on holiday – but doesn't quite fit in with your living room ideas now you're back at home – it might be time to have a rethink.

“If you’ve brought any gifts back for family or friends, make sure these get to the recipients as soon as possible to avoid cluttering up your own drawers and storage space," says Melissa Denham, interior design expert at Hammonds Furniture.

“With souvenirs for your own home, ask yourself ‘does this fit into my living space?’ or ‘does this remind me of my time on holiday?' If the answer to both is no, it’s most likely just clutter," she advises.

Top tip: If you hate the idea of your trinkets ending up in landfill, try repurposing them into something new – a postcard could become a bookmark, or a tea towel could be displayed in a frame and become artwork.

2. Clean out your wardrobe

With the change in weather imminent, it's often time to switch out summer for winter clothes – particularly if you only have a small bedroom with limited storage. Not only will this prevent your wardrobe ideas from becoming crammed with items you won’t be using, but it’s also a good opportunity to see what you already own – potentially helping you buy less in autumn.

"Start by completely clearing your wardrobe or drawer space. Use a duster to get rid of any lingering debris that inevitably will have collected since your last clean. After that, wipe both the interior and exterior of your wardrobe with a damp cloth and anti-bacterial spray to ensure its completely fresh in preparation for your autumnal attire," says Melissa Denham.

"Once all your clothing is out of your wardrobe, look through your items and decide if it’s time to say goodbye to that pair of jeans you haven’t worn in years. Stick to the rule: if you haven’t worn it in a year, donate or sell it; if you want to wear it but it’s broken, fix it; and if you wear it every year without fail, keep it!"

Shop these wardrobe decluttering essentials

3. Sort your garden furniture, toys and equipment while you can

Before you put your garden to bed this autumn, you'll want to check whether your outdoor toys, picnic equipment, camping gear and furniture are in good condition, recommends Kelly Moore, founder of Cleaning with Meaning.

“Clean and store anything you’ll use again, and donate good-quality items you don’t need anymore,” she adds.

Take a look at what garden storage you have and assess if you need to buy more. Or, perhaps your shed storage isn't up to scratch and is need of an upgrade. While the weather is still warm, it's the perfect time to upgrade what you have before the cold and damp return, and potentially damage your garden furniture.

If you’re not sure what to do with broken furniture, you could also try fixing it, upcycling it into something new, or recycling parts of it. Make sure you understand the rules for disposing of garden waste though before you pop it in your closest wheelie bin.

4. Free up bathroom storage by checking expiry dates

If your bathroom storage is feeling more cluttered than normal, the chances are, like most of us, you've stocked up on suncream and holiday-specific items over the years but never actually used them all up.

And, while it's easy to fall into the habit of buying new products every time summer comes around, throwing out old items isn't just about regaining space. Did you know that most toiletries need to be used within six to 24 months after they’re first opened? This is particularly important to follow when it comes to products such as sun protection and insect repellent. All products will have a little open jar icon on the back with a number in the middle – this number tells you how many months they can be used for after opening.

"Recycle packaging where possible and dispose of expired or unsuitable products responsibly, according to local guidance," says Kelly Moore. "Check around when you do, because some shops have recycling programmes for beauty products," she adds.

5. Refresh your kitchen cupboards

Whether it's leftover barbecue sauce or iced tea syrups you're never going to use come autumn, now is the best time to use them all up, says Kelly Moore.

While you're organising your kitchen pantry and fridge, take the opportunity to give the surfaces a wipe down and donate anything unopened and sealed to your local food bank.

"Once you've decluttered, give shelves, cupboards and storage areas a thorough clean using refillable or plant-based products. It leaves your home fresh for the new season while reducing unnecessary plastic waste," she says.

By following these five decluttering tips, your home will be refreshed and organised when autumn officially arrives, and you’ll be ready to take on the next chapter of the year.

For more expert tips, read things people with an organised porch always have to make sure you can get in from the cold quickly and efficiently once winter comes. And, if this advice has inspired you to do more, find out how the 80/20 decluttering rule helped me streamline my home.

If your grass passes the tug test (it resists your pull without ripping out the roots), we have some good news: your lawn has simply gone into survival mode, conserving energy while it waits for better weather to return.

To find out the best way to resurrect your stressed-out, dormant turf, we spoke to two landscaping experts for their top lawn care tips (spoiler: it all boils down to soil care).

1. Aerate your lawn

Once you've raked away any dead, matted thatch, you'll want to aerate the lawn using a hollow-tine aerator to help the soil breathe again. Note: the ground will need to be slightly damp from previous watering or rainfall.

"Contrary to popular advice, pushing a garden fork into the lawn isn't the answer," says David Hedges-Gower, Consultant at Modern Lawn Care. "It can actually increase compaction around each hole. Hollow-tine aeration physically removes small cores of soil, restoring the vital balance of oxygen and moisture that roots and soil biology rely upon."

2. Re-hydrate the soil

Next up, the ground needs to be deeply rehydrated – a light sprinkle isn't going to cut it, says Chris Wood, Head Florist at Waitrose Gardens.

To minimise evaporation from the sun and wind, he recommends watering the soil between 5am and 9am, soaking it with 2.5cm of water per session, and checking that the water has penetrated around 10-15cm into the soil.

3. Feed the soil

When it comes to feeding your grass, you'll want to avoid high-salt fertilisers and harsh chemical treatments, says David Hedges-Gower. Instead, he recommends choosing a product that feeds the soil itself, such as True Grass Lawn Food below.

"Organic nutrition, biostimulants and ingredients that stimulate microbial activity help rebuild root systems and restore the natural processes that produce healthy grass in the first place," he explains.

4. Lightly scarify the lawn

Once your lawn's recovery is underway, David Hedges-Gower recommends giving it a very light scarification to help remove the layer of dead leaf material that masks the new growth underneath.

"Don't be tempted to scarify aggressively unless you are planning a full renovation and reseed," he adds.

"British lawns have survived droughts, floods, harsh winters and scorching summers for centuries. The difference today is that we often expect an instant fix. Nature doesn't work like that. Give the soil water. Restore its structure. Restart its biology. Allow the roots to recover. Then be patient," concludes David Hedges-Gowe.

If you found this helpful, you may also want to learn about the best time to water grass or make a note of the UK's lawn care calendar.

While there's obviously only so far an app can get you (they won't account for practical problems or actually build it), they can be invaluable for visualising where you could place things or how to recreate a specific style you've been stalking on Pinterest.

To find out what the best garden design apps are and what real landscape experts have to say about them, keep reading.

1. Spacelift

Using expertise from award-winning garden designer Matt Keightley, this AI-powered app helps you map, visualise, shop for, and build your outdoor space from end to end.

Whether you want to reimagine your current space or plan your future garden, Spacelift personalises the experience to whatever your goals are, with the option to select the maintenance level, style and budget you're after.

For £9.99 a month or £89.99 a year, you'll get to design two projects per month, 10 design edits and quick-match credits, a project action plan, and Shop the Look. The Pro version also includes discounts on furniture and accessories.

I put its quick-match feature to the test on my own garden, asking it to redesign the space in a cottage style. See the results below.

Get the app

2. ChatGPT

You may have used ChatGPT for research or problem-solving, but did you know that it can also design your garden? Our Content Director, Laura Crombie, used it to help revamp her outdoor space, as pictured below.

When it comes to getting the best results possible, she recommends being as specific as possible about things such as paving colour and the type of gravel you want. "I had a clear vision in my head of what was practical and what I wanted. I'm not sure how useful it would be if you find it hard to picture things yourself. What I've got is very accurate."

However, she warns that sometimes it has a mind of its own and decides to change the whole thing when you ask for a tiny amendment, so be prepared to have a little patience with it.

While ChatGPT is free to use, you'll need to upgrade to the Pro version (starting at £7 per month) to generate more than two images per day.

Get the app

3. iScape

If you're in the early stages of designing a garden, iScape could come in handy, helping you visually plan where things could potentially go.

Simply take a photo of your garden and you'll be able to drag and drop various products, including trees, flowers and shrubs, as well as furniture, containers and hardscapes.

You can design in either 2D or 3D with AR, giving you a clear picture of what things would look like before you invest. The paid version (£29.99 per month) gives you access to more products, as well as the proposal tool, which helps you plan costs and decide what to buy. However, you can get a one-week free trial.

Get the app

4. Garden AI

Upload a photo of your garden and Garden AI can transform it into any style of your choosing – from Japanese or tropical to rustic or industrial. You can also upload an inspo photo and it will redesign your space based off that.

However, if you're not in a place to start completely from scratch, this app also lets you drag and drop new furniture onto your existing space and replace objects with options in their catalogue.

While you can generate one re-design for free, you'll need to upgrade to their Pro version, costing £5.99 per week or £49.99 per year, to access all of the themes and features.

I asked for a Mediterranean-style garden idea with the addition of colourful flowers, new furniture and plants. Here's what it gave me:

Get the app

Should I use a garden design app?

Garden design apps can be a brilliant starting point for homeowners unsure of what they want, but Mirela Bajic, Senior Garden Designer at House Designer, says they have their limitations.

"It doesn't know your soil. It doesn't know your garden faces north and gets two hours of sun in winter. It will happily let you put a Mediterranean gravel garden on heavy wet clay, and it will look wonderful on the screen right up until everything dies. The app designs the picture. It can't design the conditions."

When it comes to hard landscaping, such as levels, drainage and retaining walls, it's always best to call in a garden designer, as repair costs can be expensive – and tricky to undo. "I've been called in more than once to fix a garden someone built from a screen design," Mirela adds.

What are the biggest garden design app mistakes?

Garden design apps might seem like a magic quick fix, but Martin Chaplin, Head of Horticulture at Hedges Direct, says there are a few mistakes to avoid:

1. Not considering how plants grow over time: "A hedge or border that looks perfectly proportioned on screen can quickly become overcrowded if mature plant sizes and growth rates aren't factored into the design."

2. Designing around a wishlist, not your garden's natural conditions: "Before choosing any plants, consider how much sunlight the area receives, whether it's exposed to strong winds, how well the soil drains and, crucially, what type of soil you have."

3. Thinking short-term: "It's easy to focus on how the garden will look immediately after planting rather than how it will develop over the coming years. The most successful gardens have a strong evergreen framework, using hedging and structural shrubs as the backbone before layering in flowering shrubs such as hydrangeas or buddleia and perennials like lavender, salvia and verbena for seasonal colour."

While garden design apps can be incredibly helpful at visualising what sort of outdoor space to create, they should be used with caution for big projects and investments.

For more inspiration, take a look at these budget small garden ideas or browse through these garden screening ideas.

With small plots, every design decision will have a dramatic impact on the look and the use of the space. Naturally, you'll want to pick features that utilise every inch and create a harmonious, welcoming garden. But some choices can inadvertently exacerbate the claustrophobic conditions and turn a plot into a place that you never feel inclined to use.

From planting picks and colour schemes to awkward layouts that seem to be a good idea at the time, we've rounded up the common errors when bringing your small garden ideas to life, so that you can steer clear of them.

1. Rushing the planning stage

For the most successful results, planning is the key to avoiding small garden design mistakes. If you rush a design you could risk filling up an already compact space with features that you won't really need or use, and you'll quickly run out of space for the things you realise you did need.

Carefully think about what you actually want to do in the garden. Do you want to grow vegetables, host outdoor meals, welcome in wildlife, or simply relax? Prioritise the features that will need to be added to make these activities possible: if you want to grow vegetables, you'll need space for a raised garden bed, or at least a few large garden planter ideas. If you want to relax, then a seating area is a must – perhaps beneath some sort of cover or shade sail so that a spot of rain doesn't deter you.

Want to cook up a storm? Then you'll need a food prep station or a small outdoor kitchen, and an area for dining.

2. Choosing single-purpose furniture over multifunctional pieces

Versatility is key in small gardens as you need to be able to get as much as possible out of your space, and that extends to choosing your furniture. Avoid pieces that are only useful for one purpose.

For instance, instead of opting for that on-trend egg chair, think about benches or sofas which lift up to reveal storage space, or consider a bistro set, such as this Habitat Eden 2 Seater Metal Bistro Set. Seating two people rather than one, it can also be folded away when not in use, and provides a space for alfresco dining as well as a quick sit-down with a cuppa.

Tie-on cushions will keep everyone feeling comfortable, too. You can also find tables which have built-in fire pits or ice buckets, which can then be covered when not in use – ideal for taking your outdoor entertaining up a notch.

You can extend the idea to your hard landscaping too. If you're opting for raised beds or small garden walls in your plot, then these can also double up as benches.

Shop for multi-purpose garden items

3. Planting trees that are too big

If space is at a premium, planting a large tree (or a small tree that will quickly turn into a large one) can be a risky move. Not only will it take up precious meterage in your plot, but the canopy of leaves can also block out the light, leaving your garden feeling cold and gloomy. Plus, your planting picks will be limited, as not everything thrives in the dry and shaded patch beneath a tree.

In fact, planting a fast-growing evergreen shrub (such as leylandii) isn't a good idea either, as it can quickly take over your garden without regular maintenance.

There are, however, some very good choices which are suitable for small plots, or even for growing in pots, which can add colour and character and are low maintenance too. Our guides on the best trees for small gardens and best trees to grow in pots are great places to start.

4. Picking paving that overwhelms the space

Overly fussy or dark paving is a classic patio mistake and can overwhelm a small space, making it feel claustrophobic. Instead, pick larger tiles says Isabel Fernandez, director at Quorn Stone, as this creates a more subtle and seamless appearance. Whether you choose natural stone or porcelain pavers, picking pale tones will also help to brighten the area.

To take it a step further, use the same paving both indoors and out (a particularly effective trick if you have French doors, bi-folds or accordion doors). That way, your living space will feel extended with an open and airy sense of flow.

"We also recommend choosing a grout colour that is a close colour match to the paver itself," adds Isabel. "This helps the grout to blend in with the pavers and gives the illusion of a larger area."

5. Not settling on a cohesive colour scheme

It's easy to get carried away when picking plants for your small garden and go for one in every colour. However, once you add them to your garden, you might find that the lack of cohesion leads to a sense of chaos.

It's the same for furniture and accessories too, along with your flooring, fences and walls. So, rather than throwing together a mishmash of random hues, restore a sense of balance with a tonal palette that enhances the mood you want to create.

Neutrals are a failsafe choice for pared-down elegance, and can feel beachy, Scandinavian-chic, or luxe depending on the textural finishes. Soft antique white mixed with billowing planting of white gaura, cosmos, hollyhocks and roses can even create a cottage garden feel. Or, you might want to go for gentle pastels, pretty pinks, or even jolly yellows mixed with pops of purple for a striking look.

Alternatively, dark and moody tones are great for making a bolder statement with an industrial edge and will help jewel-coloured planting or acid-green ferns to pop. What's more, painting a wall or fence in a darker shade can help the boundaries of your plot seem to recede, making them less noticeable.

Shop for a single colour planting scheme

6. Adding an unnecessary lawn 'just because'

Although a section of lawn may be tempting, in a small plot this isn't a decision to take lightly.

First of all, a lawn needs a lawn mower, and a lawn mower needs somewhere dry to live when not in use, so you'll need to sacrifice space for garden storage. Second, lawns require a lot more maintenance than other types of ground cover.

A small lawn will be quick to look after, but you might decide that it's not really worth the bother. Also, remember that a lawn shouldn't be walked on if it's rainy or the ground is frozen. So, if you live somewhere where these conditions are frequent, a lawn will automatically reduce the amount of your garden that you can actually use throughout the year. And finally, if your plot is shady, then you could be facing a losing battle anyway – most lawns need a minimum of four to six hours of sunlight a day for healthy, lush results.

So what are the alternatives to grass? There are plenty of stunning small decking ideas or small patio ideas to try, whilst a gravel garden can offer a more relaxed (and budget-friendly) look. If you want something softer and more organic, then bark chippings might be the way forward.

7. Forgetting about the sun

"Everyone wants a garden that's visually appealing," says Chris Bonnett, founder of GardeningExpress. But it's also important to think about the conditions your plants need when designing your small outdoor space.

"Consider things like where the sun rises and sets and where the most shade is – this will help you to decide where the best location is to grow any plants and crops," Chris says. This is especially important in smaller city gardens, which are often overshadowed by surrounding walls or buildings.

Think 'right plant, right place' when planning your scheme and you will be rewarded with a garden that thrives. Our guide to shade loving plants will come in useful if your plot is lacking lots of sun.

Of course, it's not just the plants that you need to think about – you and your guests will probably want to enjoy some of that sunshine too. Bear this in mind when planning any outdoor seating areas – a bench that catches the evening sun will be much more tempting than one that is banished to a dark and dreary corner.

8. Holding back on borders

There are so many opportunities when it comes to designing your garden borders – from ornamental grasses to soothing colours and even scented picks. But when it comes to planning areas of planting for a small garden, it's easy to hold back. After all, a less-than-large plot should have less-then-large flowerbeds to match, right? Not necessarily.

Skimping on your borders is one of those small garden design mistakes that seems to make sense at the time. But actually, being bold and making them wider will not only give your plants more space to flourish, but it will also enable you to add layers and play with different heights. What's more, a bigger border will create much more of a statement in a small plot and help to draw the eye.

It's the same with planters – a couple of bold planters will look more stylish than a fussy cluster of little ones. Plus, they'll be easier to maintain.

Top tip: avoid cramming in too many plants when preparing your border. Instead, do your research to check how much they will spread as they establish and space them out accordingly.

Clear on what you should and shouldn't do to avoid small garden design mistakes? Next head off to our guide on the best ways to make a small patio look bigger. And, if your budget size matches your garden size, take on board these small garden budget ideas too.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Free from chlorine and other chemicals found in our tap water, rainwater is a healthier choice for our plants, containing beneficial nitrates and other organic matter.

If you want to get ahead of the next hosepipe ban by adding a water butt to your garden, we've explained everything you need to know about this eco-friendly garden update below.

Tips for using a water butt in your garden

1. Water butts typically attach to downpipes running from gutters and are fed by a diverter that syphons water from the downpipe into the butt. Once full, the rainwater coming off the roof simply continues into the drain.
2. Ideally, position a water butt where you most need water, such as next to your vegetable garden, or near the house for easy access when watering houseplants.
3. Site the rain barrel in the shade if possible. Keeping it cool will reduce the chance of bacteria flourishing.
4. Raise your water butt off the ground so you can use the tap at the bottom and fit a watering can underneath. If the butt does not come with a stand, create a base to stand it on using an even stack of bricks.
5. Make sure your water butt has a lid to stop debris falling in and to prevent flies and mosquitoes laying eggs in the water.
6. Try making a filter to cover the inlet to the rain barrel and prevent leaves and other debris contaminating your stored water.
7. Water butts come in a range of different sizes and there will be one to fit the space you have available in your garden landscaping. You can also join several together if you have a large garden.
8. Water butts are easy to install and widely available online and from DIY stores. Installation kits include the barrel, a diverter and a tap for filling a watering can.
9. Don't forget about your lovely supply of fresh rainwater. Using the water frequently helps to dilute stored water with fresh water to help keep the water clean.

Water butt shopping picks

Why do you need a water butt in your garden?

"Gardeners are having to be smart about how they water their gardens by investing in a water butt," says Mark Gush, Head of Environmental Horticulture at the RHS. "Thinking ahead is one of the best things we can do in preparing our green spaces for weather extremes, ensuring that even during the height of summer they provide a green oasis."

Gardening journalist Ruth Hayes agrees on the importance of water butts. She has five (yes five!) situated around her garden.

"Water butts are an essential piece of gardening equipment because harvested rainwater is better for plants than tap water, and of course once you’ve got your butt installed, collecting water is free and saves money as part of your garden water saving," she says.

"Mine are attached to downpipes from the house, the greenhouse and the shed, which makes it so much easier to transport water to exactly where it's needed, and between them they hold a whopping 800 litres of water when full."

What's the best design for a water butt?

There are plenty of widely available options to choose from including smart designer styles. The most common variety of water butt tends to be those made of green plastic with a black lid.

However, there are a variety of other designs and shapes available, including ones that are beehive-shaped or slimline, as well as a variety of materials such as clay, wood or terracotta (like this one from Amazon). So whether you have a cottage garden or a more modern garden, you'll be able to find a design to suit your space.

You can also buy water butts with integrated planters, as well as slimline models for slotting into narrow spaces as part of your small garden ideas. You can, of course, also have a go at making your own if you're looking for a budget garden idea and are up for an easy DIY project.

How do you keep the water in a water butt fresh?

"There are a number of steps you can take to ensure the water in your water butt or rain barrel stays fresh for as long as possible," says Hozelock's Sarah Dixon.

"First, keep the butt or barrel out of the sunlight as much as possible, otherwise algae and bacteria will start to form. It is also important to keep the top covered, as this will prevent any debris from getting inside and contaminating the water.

"There are also a number of treatments available, such as Hozelock's Water Butt Treatment (available on Amazon), which have been formulated to treat stored water by preventing unpleasant odours and keeping it free from slime and algae."

What are the problems with water butts?

Water butts are easy to use and pretty much problem-free. But one thing to remember is that it's important to keep downpipes and gutters clear of leaves, moss and any other debris, especially in the autumn, as they will block water getting into your barrel and also increase the risk of contamination.

"It's important to keep your water butt covered with a secure lid," says the experts at Envii. "Mosquitoes don’t like moving water, which means the still water in rain barrels is the perfect breeding ground for them. A secure, fastened lid will help to keep them out.

"If mosquitoes do make their way into your rain barrel, mix a small amount of olive oil with water and spray over the top of the stagnant water. This will create a film over the surface of the water and kill off the mosquito larvae."

How often do you need to clean a water butt?

When it comes to how often to clean a rain barrel, the expert advice is pretty consistent. "I advise cleaning your rain barrel annually," says Ruth Hayes, "either by disconnecting it and giving it a scrub or, more easily, by using a treatment that you can drop straight into the barrel."

The experts at Envii agree that once a year is the way to go. "Autumn is the best time to do it. Clean the outside of the butt using a garden hose to remove grime and stains. Scrub the interior to remove algae and sludge that builds up around the sides.

"Avoid using cleaning products as these can leach into the water and contaminate your soil when watering plants. Instead, use warm water with a mild washing-up detergent, avoiding the use of antibacterial detergents."

By following these expert tips, you'll be able to make the most of your water butt – saving money on your bills and lowering your carbon emissions while giving your plants healthier water.

For more garden advice, read our guide on the best time to water your plants or learn what drip irrigation systems are.

Naturally, they're a favourite for Mediterranean planting schemes, and look particularly striking in a large terracotta pot. They're easily one of the best trees for small gardens, with their silvery leaves, elegant structure and tolerance to drought.

If you have one, at some stage, you'll probably wonder when and how to give it a trim. Once you've got the right tools at the ready, it couldn't be simpler.

How do I prune an olive tree?

Follow these steps on how to prune olive trees to keep them happy, healthy and looking great in your garden design:

Step one:
Start by gathering your tools. For smaller trees, a pair of bypass secateurs or pruning shears may be all you need, but for more mature trees, you may want to invest in a hand saw or loppers.

Make sure you clean your pruning shears or other cutting tools and ensure they are sharp before you begin, to prevent damaging the plant or spreading any lingering diseases or pest.

Step two:
Shorten any dead, diseased, or dying shoots, cutting them at a slant right back to live, healthy growth.

Step three:
Then, you can work on cutting back weaker, thinner branches to open up the structure at the center of the tree. This will allow it to get more sunlight and ensure a brisk flow of air, explains John Negus, a renowned horticulturalist and gardening journalist.

"Provided you remove only a small amount of growth ­– no more than 23cm ­– from the central leader and other stems, it won't trigger what are called 'water shoots'," adds John. These appear from drastically pruned stems and have no value to the tree.

Step four:
Speaking of, remove any existing water shoots you spot, as well as any suckers on the trunk below the main fork of the tree.

Step five:
If you want to restrict the size of your olive tree, which is common if using them for container gardening, the RHS says to tip prune the main branches. Simply cut them back to a strong replacement shoot.

What you will need

When is the best time for pruning olive trees?

The best time to prune olive trees is between mid-spring and early summer, advises John Negus. Olives are more susceptible to frost damage if you prune them during colder temperatures, so it's much better to wait until the weather is warmer.

According to Thompson & Morgan, olive trees grown in pots may need another light prune later in the summer to help keep their size in check.

Avoid pruning if rain is forecasted, too, as doing so in wet conditions makes them more vulnerable to disease.

It's also wise to wait until your olive is at least two years old to start pruning it. After that, an annual trim will be beneficial.

What are the benefits of pruning olive trees?

As is the case when pruning shrubs and other trees, giving olive trees an annual cut has many benefits.

First, there's the aesthetic value: it helps to create a neater, more visually-pleasing, wine-glass-shaped structure. And then there's the boost it can give to the trees' health.

Pruning out dead or diseased wood will enable it to grow stronger. For instance, some olive trees can suffer from fungal infections, such as olive peacock spot, which causes leaves to turn yellow and develop 'eyed' blotches. Cutting off and discarding all the affected growth can help it bounce back to its former glory.

What's more, opening up the structure of the olive tree can prevent it from getting some diseases in the first place, and will enable all areas of the tree to get as much sunlight as possible to grow healthily and produce more fruit.

Pruning your olive tree is one of the easiest ways to ensure it thrives all year long, preventing disease and helping it grow stronger, so it's well worth adding it to your gardening to-do list before the colder weather hits.

For more advice and inspiration, read our guide on the worst time to prune hedges or browse through these Mediterranean garden ideas.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

A serious fungal disease, scientifically known as Diplocarpon rosae, it diminishes vigour of growth dramatically and causes markings on the foliage. In severe cases of this rose disease, leaves will drop off completely. But, there are a few tricks and tips you can follow to reduce the risk of black spot occurring.

To help you keep yours looking tip-top, we explain how to avoid black spot, how to identify it, and what to do if your plants become infected.

How can you identify rose black spot?

As renowned horticulturalist John Negus says, most types of roses suffer from black spot at some point. But, if you do see it on your plants, don't despair – "many bounce back with a little care."

Signs of the disease can appear in spring, although it tends to be at its worst in warm, wet summers.

The fungus itself is genetically very diverse – as the RHS explains – with new strains rapidly arising. However, you are likely to see some of the following symptoms:

• Black or purple patches appearing on the tops of leaves, sometimes with the surrounding tissue turning yellow.
• Infected leaves falling off.
• Small, scabby, black lesions appearing on young stems of the plant.
• Reduced vigour.

How do you treat rose black spot?

Spotted this disease on the roses in your cottage garden or garden planters? Try the following steps for rose black spot treatment:

1. If you've found black spot on your rose, spray the plant with a systemic fungicide, advises John. There are plenty of suitable rose treatments available on Amazon.
2. He also says to feed bushes with 28g per m2 of sulfate of potash. Sprinkle it over the root area monthly, from mid-spring to early autumn, and water it in. "Potash strengthens growth and builds resistance to infection." This Vitax sulfate of potash on Amazon is highly rated by reviewers.
3. "In autumn, bin the fallen leaves before they disperse spores into the soil," John continues. Make sure you are vigilant in clearing them away – any left over are a potential source for re-infection.
4. Then, get mulching – a thick layer will trap spores in the ground. "Like many fungal diseases, black spot is spread through water splash and if the spores are buried under mulch they can't be splashed onto the leaves."
5. When pruning roses in late winter, make sure you remove any stems showing signs of lesions that can also release spores. Clean your secateurs thoroughly before and after to prevent the disease from spreading.
6. Next year, spray again with fungicide before signs of disease appear.

How do you avoid rose black spot?

With some plants, cultivars have been specifically bred to have resistance to common diseases. For instance, 'Crimson Crush', amongst others, is a type of tomato that is particularly resistant to tomato blight. However, rose cultivars that are bred to be resistant to black spot don't stay resistant for long. As the RHS explains, they are generally overcome by the disease as new strains of the fungus arise.

But, there are still a few things you can do to try to keep black spot away from your roses in the first place.

Proper maintenance is always important for healthy plants. "Liquid feed your rose weekly and alternate with a fertiliser that contains good levels of nitrogen for strong, leafy growth," says John.

Also, try to improve the airflow around your plants – doing so will discourage the growth of fungus, which does best in damp, humid conditions. It's good practice to avoid watering your plants from above, too, to try and keep the foliage as dry as possible.

FAQs

Can cornmeal protect roses from black spot?

Cornmeal, better known as cornflour or polenta, has been said to help protect plants from rose black spot. This is because it contains a fungus called Trichoderma which destroys the fungus.

"The advice given is to spread a handful around the base of a rose bush in spring as the buds start to appear," says John. "Work it into the soil, water in, and mulch.

"Repeat this once a month during the growing season and the rose should remain free from black spot. It won't cure any affected leaves, but it will keep all new growth clean, which is why it is best applied as the buds are beginning to open."

Whether you've planted roses in pots or in your flowerbeds, it's important to keep a lookout for signs of black spot so you can nip it in the bud before it gets out of control.

Following our simple care guide means your roses will have the best chance of producing stunning blooms year after year.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Even though this is the month where the garden should be ticking over nicely, full of colourful flowers and ripening crops, it's not a time when gardeners can rest on their laurels.

There are still plenty of jobs to be done, whether it's weeding and deadheading flowers, on-going lawn care or keeping pests in check. So add these August gardening jobs to your to-do list – even if it's just a few, you'll soon see the benefits of your hard work.

1. Plant a late summer container

Garden planter ideas are a wonderful way of adding pops of colour to the garden. Although most summer bedding plants have gone from the garden centres now, there are still lots of plants that can be used in pots, and many of them, including dahlias, gaillardias, begonias and salvias, will flower well into the autumn.

One of my favourite methods is to begin with the tallest central plant then add smaller and trailing varieties around the edge. Gaps will fill as the plants grow. In my pot I included an orange 'Bishop's Children' dahlia, with astilbe, variegated ivy and a silvery Calocephalus for contrast.

Always raise your garden planter up on feet to help excess water escape and to prevent waterlogging, which will drive oxygen from the compost and effectively 'drown' the plant. Pot feet also make it harder for pests to crawl in from below.

Watering plants well is essential to help settle the plants, firm compost around their roots and activate water-retaining granules, if used.

Top tip: If you are not sure whether your pot or basket needs watering, stick a finger in it up to the first knuckle. If it feels dry, get watering!

2. Protect wooden structures and fences before winter

Wooden structures such as sheds and garden fences take quite a battering through the year and need protection against harsh weather and extremes of temperatures.

Once treated with paint, varnish or preservative they are more likely to successfully withstand the elements. However, one application isn’t enough and you need to repeat the process every couple of years to keep them in good condition.

While it’s traditional to use oil, preservative or paint in neutral colours, using coloured exterior wood paint can help add another lively dimension to your plot.

Whether you're painting a fence or shed, choose a dry day and before painting or preserving clean your fence or shed by brushing or wiping the surface to remove moss, algae and debris and, if wet, let it dry before painting.

If painting the shed, stick masking tape around the edges of the windows so you don’t get paint on the glass.

Top tip: Always follow the grain of the wood when applying preservative or paint as it will be easier to apply and give better coverage. More than one coat may be needed.

Shop for fence and shed paint

3. Propagate strawberries for better berries

If you've learned how to grow strawberries this summer, your strawberry plants will now merrily be sending out runners, long overground shoots that sprout tufts of leaves that root where they touch the soil, creating new plants.

If you don’t want these to take up residence close to the parent plants, dig them up and pot them up, still attached by the runner. They can be cut free when they have successfully rooted and started to grow, and the runner has dried and shrivelled.

These new plants will be used to replace older ones next spring as strawberries tend to become less productive and more disease-prone after three or four years.

Simply find a runner that has healthy leaves and roots appearing along its length. Set the leafy part of the runner on a pot of compost and add more to cover the roots, then secure the plantlet to the compost using pegs on either side to hold the runner in place.

Water the pot, leave it by the parent plant until the new plant starts to grow, then cut it free.

Top tip: Find somewhere new to grow your strawberries every three or four years to keep them productive and prevent a build-up of diseases in the soil.

4. Tackle lawn weeds

Summer is tough for lawns, especially when we have had multiple heatwaves and no rain. Don’t worry though, your grass will quickly recover when the rains return, and in the meantime there are a few things you can do to keep it looking as good as it can right now.

If you're not sure how to get rid of lawn weeds, you can tackle broadleaved weeds such as dandelions, black medic and clover either with a lawn weed killer (never use general weedkiller as it kills grass too) or by digging them out.

If you have any bare patches, water them well then sow a feed and seed mix onto the soil. Fork it in and protect the patch from birds using netting pegged over the top. Keep soil damp as seeds germinate.

Try this Walensee Weed Puller from Amazon to pull up weeds while remaining standing upright.

Top tip: Don’t waste water on your lawn as it will start to green up as soon as it rains. Save the water for crops and new plants that need all the help they can get.

5. Cut back and deadhead plants

Deadheading flowers such as hydrangeas, penstemons and other perennials and annuals as soon as their blooms start to fade will encourage further blooms.

Bring the colour and scents of the garden indoors by cutting flowers for vases. This will also prompt many of them to flower again, later in fall.

Top tip: Always keep your best shears and secateurs sharp and clean to avoid damaging plant stems and spreading pests and diseases.

6. Catch up on maintenance

It’s been a busy summer so there is every chance your shed will be a bit of a mess, with piles of dirty pots, old seed packets and tools hastily put down and not put away.

Make tidying up your shed storage one of your August gardening jobs. Start by washing tools and then storing everything in its proper place. Tools should be disinfected and sharpened before autumn’s pruning and bed clearance starts.

7. Take care of garden wildlife

Continuing to feed garden birds and wildlife is important at all times of the year, so don't forget to include it on your list of August gardening jobs. You should provide them both with fresh water for drinking and bathing, especially during prolonged dry spells.

As autumn approaches, do a garden audit and work out what you could do to improve your eco-friendly garden.

Sow and plant pollinator-friendly flowers such as sunflowers, sweet peas, cerinthe, pulmonaria, globe thistle and sedum and create a scruffy area where wildlife and invertebrates can hide.

If you want to know how to help hedgehogs in summer, or as it's coming to an end, it's a good idea to feed them with dry cat food and give them fresh water. Never give them milk as it will upset their stomach, and don't feed with mealworms as they cause calcium deficiency leading to weakened bones.

8. Install a water butt or two

With hosepipe bans in place and less rain, watering your garden in August can be a challenge. "Although it’s warm, well-established lawns should be watered less frequently, but deeply," says Simon Parry, a TrexPro^® composite decking installer and founder of Simon Parry Gardening. "This ensures the roots remain healthy. However, new lawns with less-established root patterns dry out quicker so need watering more.

"For fruit and vegetables, regular watering is still necessary in August, as hot weather triggers faster evaporation. Similarly, any crops that are flowering or patio container plants need regular watering too," he continues. "Evergreen shrubs maintain their foliage all-year-round, so watering them well will also ensure next year’s buds develop well.

"Compost heaps can also dry out and then stop working through dry, hot spells," he warns. "By giving them a water they will continue the composting process."

But, with water restrictions in place, one of the best garden water saving tips you can employ ready for next year, is to install a water butt before autumn and winter rains arrive. In fact, if you have the space, install as many as you can on downpipes from the house, garage and greenhouse.

Water butts are widely available from DIY stores and online and they are easy to install. They save money if you are on a water meter, and if you put one close to areas of the garden that need a lot of water they will save you time and energy too, as you won't have to carry heavy watering cans for long distances.

Top tip: Tie an old pair of tights over a downpipe leading to a water butt to filter out any debris. Just remember to empty the tights regularly.

9. Take cuttings of tender perennials

Take cuttings from tender perennials such as pelargoniums before you lift and store them in a frost-free greenhouse over winter.

The cuttings will give you more plants and also act as an ‘insurance policy’ in case the parent plants don’t survive winter.

Once you've taken your cutting, insert them into a pot of seed compost or peat-free compost that’s been mixed with grit to improve drainage, and set them somewhere warm and light, but out of direct sunlight. The cuttings should start to root in 4-6 weeks, at which time they will start to grow.

Top tip: You can either leave your cuttings where they are or pot them up individually in peat-free compost in a few months’ time. Keep them in a frost-free greenhouse or cool room over the winter.

10. Protect your plants if you're going away

August is a prime month for holidays, whether at home or abroad. For best results, group pots together in a sheltered, shady spot to reduce moisture loss and make sure you give them a good soaking before you leave for holiday.

Adding a drip irrigation system on a timer, could also help ensure your garden borders or veggie patches stay refreshed while you're away.

Indoors, place houseplants on towels draped into a sink or bucket of water to act as a ‘wick’. You can also buy self-watering systems for pot plants that simply stick into the soil and plants draw water from them as needed.

11. Give your lawn a much-needed boost

Spend time on your lawn care as part of your August gardening jobs and it will lead to a better-looking lawn for next year.

Scarifying the lawn by raking it will remove dead (grass) thatch. You can then aerate it with a fork or spike to improve drainage, and top-dress using a mix of sharp sand or compost.

Feeding your lawn with an autumn granular food and moss killer will also help it over winter. Remember though, when you're mowing the lawn during hot spells, don't cut it too short as this can cause the grass to brown.

Raising your mower blades if you are cutting it is a must, according to Simon Parry. "Raising the cutting height will keep the grass slightly longer, which helps to shield the roots from the heat," he explains. "It is best to cut your lawn every 1-2 weeks and leave the short clippings where they are, so when it is hot they can act like mulch," he adds.

12. Get to grips with weeds

Weeds can feel like unwanted guests at the best of times, but especially during summer when you want your garden to be looking its very best. Spend an afternoon digging up weeds and pulling them up by the root.

It's worth investing in a pair of gardening gloves, as you may find that some weeds are spiky and can irritate the skin. This Spear & Jackson The Kew Gardens Gloves Trio Pack from Argos should provide you with a pair for all the different gardening jobs you'll do throughout the year.

The general rule for how to get rid of weeds most effectively is weeding little and often, as the more frequently you weed the less effort it is to get rid of them before they have taken root.

Of course, once August is over, your garden will still need your care and attention as we move into Autumn. Find out the 10 September gardening jobs you'll need to add to your next list, and which plants you need to prune in September before it's too late.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

With their abundance of impressively sized blooms in blue, pink, lime-green or white, it's no surprise that these shrubs have made a serious comeback recently. They bring stylish structure and form to both contemporary and cottage-style garden schemes, and growing hydrangeas is undemanding, too.

So, if you're looking for a budget-friendly approach for filling your garden with these show-stopping shrubs, this guide is sure to come in handy.

Easy steps for propagating hydrangeas from cuttings

Taking cuttings from plants is a wonderful way to increase your collection and add more foliage and flowers to your plot for free. And with hydrangeas, it's simple.

You can take softwood cuttings from spring to early summer. As the RHS advises, take your cutting from the soft and flexible young shoot tips, which will root readily. Alternatively, you can take semi-ripe cuttings in mid-summer (which will have a woody base), or hardwood cuttings in winter.

Whichever approach you go for, ensure you use a sharp, clean pair of secateurs – Spear and Jackson's Razorsharp bypass secateurs on Amazon are highly rated by reviewers.

Follow these simple steps:

1. Once you have taken your cuttings, put them into a pot of gritty compost, water well, then place the pot in a propagator or cover it with a transparent plastic bag for around six weeks. If you're using the plastic bag approach, briefly remove and shake it out daily to avoid too much condensation building up.
2. Keep your hydrangea cuttings somewhere frost-free over winter, then pot on into a bigger pot when fresh growth appears in spring.
3. Renowned gardening expert John Negus suggests liquid feeding your hydrangea cuttings with a high-potash tomato fertiliser. "Apply it weekly, making sure that the cutting compost is damp," he says. Levington Tomorite, available from Amazon, is a popular variety.
4. Remember to harden off your cuttings for two to three weeks before planting them in their final position outdoors. This involves putting your hydrangea cuttings outside in their pots for a few hours a day to begin with, before taking them back indoors overnight. It allows the plants to gradually acclimatise to being outdoors in the sun, wind and rain before being transplanted to the ground or your choice of garden planter. It's also worth remembering that it can take a couple of years for them to start flowering.

How to propagate hydrangeas from seed

It is also possible to grow hydrangeas from seed, although growing them from cuttings is much quicker and easier.

Whether you're growing hydrangeas in pots or in the ground you can get free seeds from them. Collect the tiny seeds by cutting off the dried flower heads and placing them in paper bags – allow them to continue to dry here for a few days. Then, shake the bag to allow the seeds to fall out.

Once you have your seeds, it's simply a case of sowing them in trays of potting soil, without covering them with the soil. Put them somewhere sheltered and sunny – a windowsill is ideal – and keep them moist – they should germinate within a couple of weeks. Pot them on when they are large enough to handle.

FAQs

Should you remove developing flowers on your hydrangea cuttings?

It's best to get rid of any flowers you spot on young hydrangea cuttings.

"It is not unusual for flower buds to form at the tips of hydrangea cuttings, but if you let them bloom they are liable to weaken growth," says John Negus. "The best way to remove them is with pointed scissors to avoid damaging fragile stems."

Can you divide hydrangeas to make new plants?

Another common way to propagate many outdoor and indoor plants is by dividing them up. So you may be wondering, "can you split a hydrangea?".

Unfortunately, as John Negus explains, dividing hydrangeas can be impractical as most have a single stem. But there can be exceptions. "Occasionally, if a thicket of shoots forms, the bush can be dug up and split into well-rooted clumps," he says.

If yours are like this, go ahead and divide the bushes when leaves fall, in late autumn. "Then, shorten the stems to 18in (45cm) of the base. Replant the divisions in holes two or three times the diameter of the rootball. Work in lots of compost or manure and set plants at the same depth as before.

"Water them well to ensure the roots are in close contact with the soil," he adds.

Interested in more hydrangea gardening advice?

Our guides on whether hydrangeas can grow in shade and how to change the colour of your hydrangeas are packed with useful tips to help you get the best from these much-loved plants.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

These structural shrubs are renowned for their giant, fluffy heads of blooms. Growing hydrangeas is relatively easy, so they make fabulous garden staples, whether that's in a large border, planted in a pot, or to brighten up a shaded corner. But once those blooms pass their peak, they turn brown and withered, and the plants can quickly go from looking lovely to lackluster.

We explain how to neaten up the look of your hydrangea throughout the flowering season. But that's not the only benefit of deadheading hydrangeas – doing so will also allow the plants to grow stronger and encourage better blooms to form later on.

4 simple steps for deadheading hydrangeas

Deadheading flowers always improves the look of garden displays while allowing the plant to channel its energy into making better blooms and growing strongly.

With hydrangeas, it's super straightforward – just follow these steps:

1. Take a pair of secateurs or, for larger shrubs, garden pruners. Ensure they are sharp and clean so as not to damage the plant.
2. Locate the hydrangea flowers that have passed their best – their colour will have faded and become tinged with brown, and the petals will have shrivelled.
3. Remove the faded blooms with an inch of stem, says Christine Walkden, a gardening expert and BBC TV presenter. This is so that you do not prune out potential flower buds which are developing immediately beneath them, she adds.
4. At the same time, you can remove any weak or dead stems that are crowding the middle of the bush, says renowned gardening journalist John Negus. "Provided the remaining shoots are strong and healthy and air can pass freely between them, there is nothing else to do."

Shop these tools for your deadheading tasks

When is the best time for deadheading hydrangeas?

Whether you're growing hydrangeas in pots or in the ground, you can deadhead them throughout the flowering season. Start deadheading as soon as the first flowers fade, then continue as and when your shrub needs a tidy-up.

In colder regions, some gardeners choose to skip deadheading mophead varieties of hydrangeas entirely. Leaving flowers on over winter helps protect the plants from frost, as it shelters the buds.

Lacecap varieties are hardier, so there is less risk in deadheading them freely in colder areas. But, whatever your approach and variety of plants, it's generally wise to stop deadheading hydrangeas in early autumn.

What's more, if you prefer to leave the blooms to dry on the plant over winter it will add sculptural interest to your garden design. These can be snipped away the following spring, when you prune your hydrangeas.

If your hydrangeas haven't been looking their best this summer, make sure you get up to speed with the key reasons why your hydrangea might not be blooming.

And if you prefer the look of blue hydrangeas compared to pink varieties, our guide on how to change the colour of your hydrangea will come in useful.

Knowing what grows best in specific types of soil can also help you choose a mix of plants that suits the growing conditions of your garden, particularly if you're about to embark on a new landscaping design.

Soil can range from being either very acidic or alkaline. But, other soil characteristics will also play a part in how well your plants will grow. In this extensive guide we'll dig deep into everything you need to know about your garden soil.

How do you identify different soil types?

The first step to identifying the soil types in your garden is to identify whether it is acid or alkaline. Soil pH varies from around 3.5 (very acidic) to 8.5 (alkaline) – a reading of 7 is considered neutral and the optimum for most plants is 6.5.

"Most plants prefer a slightly acidic to neutral soil, around pH 6 to 7, while lime-loving plants such as lavender, clematis and many brassicas do better in more alkaline conditions," notes Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

"A home pH testing kit is also useful for establishing whether your soil is acidic, neutral or alkaline, which can help when choosing plants," says Peter Chaloner, managing director of Cobra.

This Garden Tutor Soil pH Test Kit from Amazon will help you establish which type of soil you have, while another easy way to tell is to ask your neighbours which plants they are growing in their gardens and work out the approximate pH based on what's performing well in nearby soils.

"Also pay attention to what happens after heavy rain, too," says Peter. "Water sitting on the surface can indicate heavy or compacted ground, while very rapid drainage may suggest sandy or free-draining soil. This is particularly important for lawns, as poor drainage isn't always down to soil type; compaction can be a major factor and can often be improved through aeration.”

Get your hands dirty to find out your soil type

“Another simple way to get an initial idea of your soil type is to take a handful of moist soil and squeeze it," adds Peter Chaloner. "Clay tends to feel sticky and holds its shape; sandy soil feels gritty and falls apart easily, while loam is usually crumbly but holds together loosely. Silty soil feels smooth and silky, while peaty soil is typically dark and spongy."

As well as looking at your soil, assessing how moist or dry it is, and how easily you can get your spade into it, you can also try the following simple test if you're still not sure. First, take a sample of soil from about 4–6in (10–15cm) below the surface – if you have a large plot, take a few samples from different areas. If it is not already damp, add a little water so that it's moist but not wet. Then, feel the texture with your fingers before trying to roll it into a ball.

A soil rich in clay will feel smooth and sticky and have a surface sheen like plasticine if you rub it. When rolled into a ball, clay will keep its shape well, and it can be moulded to form a long ribbon. It will also retain a fingerprint mark when you press your thumb onto it.

Sandy soil feels gritty, and when you try to roll it into a ball, it will fall apart. Silty soils have a smooth, soapy texture and will make a loose ball shape but will easily fall apart and cannot be moulded into a ribbon like clay.

A peaty soil feels spongy and won't roll into a ball – drops of water may also come out when you squeeze it. Depending on its exact make-up, you may be able to roll loam into a ball and even a ribbon shape if it's a clay loam, but it will not leave a fingerprint mark when pressed.

If you suspect your soil is chalky, check for the tell-tale signs of white chalk and stony flint in it. You can also add some soil to a jar of vinegar, and if it froths, then you know it contains chalk or limestone and will be very alkaline.

6 main types of soil

While all soils fulfil a similar function, there are many different types, and knowing which one you have in your garden will help you to choose plants adapted to thrive in your specific conditions.

Clay and sandy soils are the most common types; silty soils are less prevalent and are generally found on flood basins near rivers or where rivers have previously existed; and peaty and chalky soils are rare in gardens and exist in just a few areas of the country (at least, in the UK).

Although there is no 'good' or 'bad' soil, since there are plants adapted to each type, some can be more challenging to cultivate and may not support as many garden plants species.

1. Clay soil

These soils are made up of a large proportion of microscopic clay particles, which can become compacted, binding together tightly to form large, solid, airless clumps.

They are known as 'heavy' soils, not because they weigh more than others, but because they are difficult to dig – if you have clay, you may not be able to get even your garden spade into it in the summer.

Getting the most from clay soil

Improve the drainage by digging in as much horticultural grit, sharp sand, or even fine gravel dredged from freshwater sources as you can muster.

"Clay soil holds water and nutrients well but can become compacted and waterlogged," adds Peter Chaloner, "so regular aeration can help improve drainage and encourage stronger root growth."

Make sure you also choose the best plants for clay soil when you visit the garden centre to ensure success.

"Clay suits roses, hydrangeas, euphorbias and forsythia, plus crops such as brassicas and beans if it has been improved with compost," advises Julian Palphramand.

2. Sandy soil

Sand particles are much larger than clay, and they also have bigger spaces between them that allow water to drain through easily.

"As a result, sandy soil drains quickly and warms up early, but loses moisture and nutrients more readily, meaning lawns may need more attention to watering and feeding, particularly during dry weather," says Peter Chaolner.

Often referred to as 'light' because they are easy to dig, sandy soils also warm up quickly in spring, allowing seeds to germinate and plant growth to begin sooner than in other soils.

Getting the most from it

To give plants the best start, pour compost into each planting hole to the depth of the head of a spade.

Weeds must be kept tightly under control. For minimal maintenance, cover the earth with a weed-proof, semi-permeable membrane, securing it with stakes, then cut slits to plant through. Once planted, cover the membrane in around an inch (3cm) depth of gravel.

Expert tips

As these soils are dry and warm in early spring, they can be ideal for sowing early vegetable crops. The drier conditions, especially in winter, also suit plants such as lavender, rock roses, and olive trees – perfect picks if you're looking for Mediterranean garden ideas.

Perfect plants

"Sandy soil is good for lavender, rosemary, buddleia and root vegetables such as carrots and parsnips," notes Julian Palphramand.

Kniphofia is an exotic choice ideal for coastal gardens. Echinacea purpurea 'Doubledecker' is also a good choice, especially if you're looking for bee-friendly plants for an eco-friendly garden.

Other top picks include achillea, agapanthus, amelanchier, spring bulbs, delphinium, dianthus, fuchsia, geranium, bay, poppy, ornamental grasses, sedum, and thyme.

3. Silty soil

Silt particles are smaller than sand but larger than clay. The gaps between them allow good airflow and drainage while still retaining some water and nutrients.

Getting the most from it

Silty soils suit a wide range of plants, including any that like moist, free-draining conditions. "Silty soil is generally fertile and moisture-retentive but can be prone to compaction, making aeration beneficial," advises Peter Chaloner. Avoid walking on it while wet where possible.

Expert tips

Silt soils are prone to washing or blowing away in the rain or wind. As the RHS suggests, you can add organic matter to this type of soil to make the silt particles more stable. How about giving worm composting a go if you haven't already?

Perfect plants

Julian Palphramand tells us that, "silty soil suits a wide range of plants including hellebores, ferns and alliums, and it is excellent for most vegetables – if it does not become waterlogged."

You can also try aster (including symphyotrichum), birch, dogwood, delphinium, lupin, phlox, rose, rudbeckia, leucanthemum, sweet box, viburnum, willow, and hellebores.

4. Chalky soil

If you have chalk, you will see lumps of the soft white stone, as well as hard pieces of flint. "Chalky soil is free-draining and alkaline, so lawns can be more susceptible to nutrient deficiencies and drying out," says Peter Chaloner.

Many chalky soils are shallow, lying over a layer of chalk or limestone. They are also alkaline, free-draining and relatively infertile. If they also contain a good proportion of clay, they can be water-retentive and contain more nutrients.

Getting the most from it

"As chalky soil is often thin, it suits lavender, clematis, peonies and brassicas, as well as beetroot and spinach with regular feeding," explains Julian Palphramand.

Where you have a thin layer of soil over chalk bedrock, try learning how to plant a wildflower meadow that will thrive in these conditions. Or, try planting small species with shallow root balls.

When planting on chalk, also break up the ground to a depth of 2.5ft (75cm) to allow plants' roots to spread. Honeysuckle, euonymus, and verbascum will all love alkaline conditions.

5. Peaty soil

Rarely found in gardens in the UK, peaty soils are made up of organic matter, such as decomposed plants. Peat is dark in colour, low in nutrients, and water-retentive – it holds on to moisture like a sponge. "It is also often acidic and can encourage moss where conditions remain wet," notes Peter Chaloner.

Perfect plants

"Peaty soil is is best for acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons, camellias, blueberries and heathers, while vegetables such as potatoes and leafy crops can do well if drainage is managed," says Julian Palphramand.

Pieris, blue-flowered hydrangea, heathers, and witch hazel will also all thrive in peaty soils. You can learn more about growing hydrangeas in our guide, but, don't try to grow plants that prefer alkaline conditions such as clematis and lavender.

6. Loams

"Loam is the most balanced soil type, combining sand, silt and clay, and it is ideal for almost everything," notes Julian Palphramand, including tomatoes, carrots, foxgloves and wisteria, as well as most vegetables."

Water-retentive, free-draining, and fertile, it contains roughly equal proportions of sand and silt, together with enough clay to hold moisture and nutrients. As a result, it offers gardeners – and plants – the best of all worlds.

"It is also particularly well suited to healthy grass growth," notes Peter Chaloner which is good of you are planning on large areas of lawn in your garden.

When improving a soil, it is a loam-like consistency that you are aiming to achieve. Sandy loams have freer drainage, while clay loams hold more water, but all types are suitable for many different plant species.

Expert tips

You can make a heavy clay or light sandy soil more loam-like by mulching – see below for more info on how to improve soil.

Perfect plants

Only those that are adapted to very free-draining conditions (such as drought-loving Mediterranean herbs) or bog plants that love lots of moisture (such as candelabra primulas and Siberian flag irises) will turn up their noses to loam. The list of suitable plants is therefore almost endless, and most vegetable crops will also thrive in loam.

Understanding how to deal with sun and shade

“The orientation of your garden can have almost as much impact as the soil itself because sunlight, shade and wind all affect how quickly the ground loses moisture," says Peter Chaloner.

It means that regardless of soil type, you may also need to take extra measures to get the most out of your garden.

How do you deal with hot and sunny soil?

These will be areas like a south-facing bed or border that get the full heat of the sun all year round. Not all plants will survive such conditions, but plants for full sun, such as exotic choices will thrive.

"For hot, sunny soil, the key is to help it hold on to moisture and stop it drying out too quickly," advises Julian Palphramand. "Water early in the day, add a good layer of mulch, and work in plenty of compost or well-rotted organic matter to improve moisture retention."

"During prolonged hot, dry periods, lawns can also benefit from a higher mowing height," adds Peter Chaloner, "as longer grass helps shade the soil and reduces stress on the plant."

Getting the most from it

Having a drip irrigation system, such as this 315 Piece Drip Irrigation Kit from B&Q, or laying a hose with small holes punched along its length through the bed, to drench the soil in the evening when needed can help during particularly hot spells. Mulch the soil with well-rotted manure in autumn and spring with coarse compost or leaf mould to help with moisture retention.

Exotic plants which love the hot sun will need more protection from the winter frosts. The crowns of tree ferns and banana plants must be wrapped in horticultural fleece or hessian.

Top tips

Sunny plots are ideal for many herbaceous favourites – roses, bergamot, and tobacco plants, for example. They are also perfect for hot-coloured tender exotics such as cannas and ginger lilies, but grow them in large plastic pots that, come spring, are submerged in beds, but can be lifted in autumn and overwintered in a greenhouse to avoid frosts.

Perfect plants

Cannas give an exotic feel. Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop' is a beautiful succulent. Dahlias will also work well in a hot border. "Crops such as tomatoes, courgettes and beans can also do well if they are watered regularly," adds Julian.

How do you deal with shady and dry soil beneath trees?

"For shady, dry soil, the main problem is often competition for water from tree roots or nearby walls," explains Julian Palphramand. "Improving the soil with organic matter and mulching well will help conserve moisture, but plant choice matters just as much."

Getting the most from it

Before planting, dig a deep hole part-filled with compost, and thoroughly soak the plant's rootball. Water new plants weekly until they establish. Dig in organic matter to increase the moisture retention of the soil, mulching heavily with a thick layer of bark chippings in spring.

In spring and during hot spells, thoroughly soak the ground once every 10 days – this encourages deep root penetration, whereas watering little and often develops weak, shallow-rooted plants.

Expert tips

Under deciduous trees, plant spring-flowering bulbs such as cyclamen, anemones, snowdrops, and narcissi. Create a ground cover of foliage to retain moisture. If planting in terracotta pots, line them with plastic to retain moisture in hot spells, adding moisture-retentive gel granules to the compost.

Perfect plants

"Go for species that are happy in dry shade, such as hellebores, epimediums, vinca, heucheras, geranium macrorrhizum and ferns, rather than trying to force moisture-loving plants to cope," advises Julian.

And, if your lawn is shaded, "this can present different challenges, with weaker grass growth and damp conditions potentially encouraging moss," says Peter Chaloner, "so avoid mowing too closely and consider aerating compacted areas.”

FAQs

How can you improve your garden soil?

The best advice for any gardener is to choose plants adapted to your site and soil conditions. But we all want what we can't have, so if you have your heart set on a plant that likes good drainage but you have heavy clay, or a rose that prefers rich soil and you have dry, infertile sand, you can improve your soil to widen your choices.

"Whatever type of soil you have, the best first step is to add plenty of well-rotted organic matter, such as compost or manure, because this improves structure, boosts nutrients and helps soil hold the right amount of moisture," says Julian Palphramand.

"In clay soil, organic matter helps break up compaction and improve drainage; in sandy soil, it helps the soil retain more water and nutrients; and in silty soil, it can reduce the risk of waterlogging."

Peaty soil also benefits from careful watering and mulching to keep moisture levels steady. Loam is already the most balanced soil type, but even that will benefit from a regular mulch to keep it fertile and healthy.

Covering clay soils also prevents them from forming solid crusts in summer. Humus also coats sandy particles, but in this instance, it acts like a water magnet, allowing them to hold on to moisture for long enough for plants to take it up through their roots.

Apply an organic mulch to clay soils in winter, and to dry sandy soils as part of your spring garden jobs, to prevent winter rains washing it away. Leave a gap around the woody stems of shrubs and trees so that the moist mulch will not rot your plants.

A mulch laid on the soil surface will be taken down and incorporated into the lower depths by worms and other creatures. Here, the organic matter not only improves the structure of the soil, but it also continues to decompose, releasing plant nutrients slowly throughout the growing season.

Another top tip is to protect your soil, particularly those rich in clay or silt, from compaction by never walking across it when it's wet. After rain, put down wooden boards for walking on, which will help to spread your weight if you need to tend your beds while the soil is still damp.

How do I know which vegetables will grow in my soil?

Want to grow your own crops for a delicious harvest next season? As our experts have advised, different veggies suit different types of soil, so here's a quick reminder on what to plant if you're starting a vegetable garden:

• Clay soils suit lettuce, chard, green beans, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cabbage
• Sandy soils are good for onions, most herbs, tomatoes, and root vegetables, including carrots, parsnips, potatoes, and radishes
• For silty soils, try broccoli, cabbage, courgette, green beans, kale, lettuce, onion, potatoes, pumpkin, tomatoes, and sweetcorn
• Chalky soils are well suited to radishes, Swiss chard, and sweetcorn
• Finally, if you have peaty soil (but it's not too wet), try potatoes, celery, onions, carrots, and lettuce

Once you've established your soil type, you can then start to think about the design of your garden. Find inspiration in our round-up of cottage garden ideas, or for something that's a little easier to look after, take a look at these low-maintenance garden ideas instead.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Like all plants though, lavender requires you to understand where it comes from and what it needs to thrive in order for it to reach full bloom.

Thankfully, the reasons why it's failing aren't too difficult to fix and in general, experts say it comes down to three things – all of which you can easily resolve.

1. You're not pruning it enough

This is nearly always the number one reason why a lavender plant isn't flowering.

"Unpruned plants become leggy and woody and lose flowers," confirms Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. "Many people cut into the woody part and kill the entire stem, but you need to cut above the new growth.

"Trim lightly right after flowering, removing about a third of the growth above the soft green shoots, never into old wood," he advises.

Pruning lavender is very easy, and according to Monty Don, should be done as soon as the flowers start to fade. Avoid leaving them to go brown in order to allow more time for regrowth before winter.

Gardening tools to help you care for your lavender

2. You have the wrong soil type

Lavender has quite specific soil requirements – alkaline, infertile, and free-draining. In other words, if you have chalky, thin soil, it's perfect for lavender. The mistake people often make is adding organic matter or synthetic fertiliser to the soil where they grow their lavender.

"Lavender won’t flower in rich or wet soil," explains Julian Palphramand. "The lavender doesn't need it, so won't produce flowers. Or, if it does, the flowers will be sickly and not fragrant.

"Heavy, clay ground needs grit," he continues, "or use a container with a free-draining mix."

"I always mix in plenty of horticultural grit to multipurpose peat-free compost when growing lavender in pots," says Beth Murton, editor of Homebuilding & Renovating. "It helps to improve the drainage and prevents the soil from becoming waterlogged. I've found the easiest way to get the right balance of compost and grit is to mix the soil with the grit (around 25 per cent in terms of volume) in a wheelbarrow before filling my garden planter with it."

This Melcourt RHS potting grit from Crocus can be used to improve drainage for lavender and also works well for other plants such as alpines, succulents and cacti.

3. Your lavender is in the wrong spot in the garden

Where you plant your lavender is also integral to the success of it flowering.

"Lavender handles heat well; in a heatwave, the real danger is overwatering, not drought," says Julian Palphramand. "Think Mediterranean: full sun, excellent drainage, and only water when the soil is truly dry."

Lavender needs at least six hours a day of sunlight to produce its fragrant blooms, so the rules are simple, he continues. "Don’t plant it under trees or in shade, as it will not flower. It needs a spot that really gets baked with sunshine throughout the day with good airflow – but not too windy."

It often works best as part of Mediterranean garden ideas that typically include some kind of an enclosure. Plant it in a sunny, sheltered spot, preferably against a sunny wall or in a garden border that gets constant sunshine throughout the day.

Julian Palphramand's final advice? Check the age and type of lavender you are currently growing, or thinking of planting.

"Young plants may not bloom until their second or third year, and some varieties are simply too fussy for cooler, wetter UK areas," he says.

Thinking of using lavender to help zone your garden? Find out what there is to know about using lavender for hedges, or consider how to make it a key feature in your cottage garden ideas.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

If you like the sound of a low-maintenance garden, where everything is magically taken care of, then you'll want to consider some of the smart devices below.

From robotic lawn mowers to soil moisture sensors, we've rounded up the cleverest garden upgrades that are well worth the investment – and how you can include them in your outdoor space.

1. Smart irrigation systems

We all know how unpredictable the UK weather can be, which can sometimes make it tricky to establish an efficient watering routine. That's where smart garden irrigation systems come in handy – they water your plants according to the conditions, rather than a generic schedule, ensuring they get exactly what they need.

"This not only reduces water waste but also encourages healthier root development by preventing both overwatering and drought stress," says Martin Chaplin, head of horticulture at Hedges Direct.

“They're especially beneficial for newly planted hedging, trees and shrubs, which rely on consistent moisture while establishing. Plants such as Portuguese Laurel, Cherry Laurel, Photinia and Beech hedging all benefit from regular watering in their first growing season, and smart irrigation takes much of the guesswork out of keeping them healthy.”

Before you set your irrigation system up however, make sure you know the best time to water plants so you don't waste water, or create problems with plant health.

2. Smart lighting

Whether it's for home security or aesthetics, good lighting design is essential in every garden – and smart bulbs make it even easier by allowing you to schedule when they turn on and off using your phone or voice.

In the same way that smart lighting systems work inside your home, "smart plugs can connect outdoor lights to devices via Wi‑Fi or Bluetooth, giving you control over when they are switched on and off, or allowing you to switch up the mood without getting up to do it manually," says Jon Saeed, managing director of Lighting Legends.

To make the most of your garden lighting ideas, ensure you understand the best landscape lighting techniques so that your smart lighting doesn't just save you time, but illuminates your garden in the best way possible.

Shop smart outdoor lighting

3. Robot lawn mowers

Mowing the lawn isn't the most exciting job in the world, which is why more and more people are switching to robotic mowers. These clever devices cut your grass for you, leaving you with more time to enjoy your space.

We've tested a number of them here at Homebuilding & Renovating and they're usually met with approval, making them one of the items most of us would consider a must-have in a smart garden.

“For many households, robotic lawn mowers are a worthwhile investment because they maintain the lawn little and often, encouraging denser, healthier grass without the need for weekly mowing," says Martin Chaplin.

"The fine grass clippings are also left behind to naturally break down, returning nutrients to the soil and reducing the need for additional feeding."

While robotic mowers can be incredibly handy, Martin notes that they "work best in relatively simple gardens with clearly defined lawn areas".

4. Smart soil sensors

Often used alongside a smart irrigation system, or drip irrigation system, soil sensors let you know whether the ground is becoming too dry or is moist enough. They're a particularly good investment for valuable plants, giving you reassurance that they're not under stress.

“Many gardeners are surprised to learn that plants are often overwatered rather than underwatered, particularly in containers or after periods of rainfall," notes Martin Chaplin.

Using soil sensors can therefore help you take some of the guesswork out of understanding why your plants aren't thriving, helping you to establish if you have problems such as box blight, or if it's simply a case of too much or too little water.

5. Motorised shading

Every garden design needs a shaded area, but sometimes the hassle of winding a clunky parasol up and down is too much effort. The solution? A motorised patio umbrella or awning, like this one from Amazon.

"Motorised patio umbrellas allow you to effortlessly provide shade in your garden during heatwaves," says Jon Saeed. "Instead of struggling to wind them up and down, you can simply press a button to do it automatically – a far more hassle free solution."

Not only are they easier to use than manual parasols, but they also give you more flexibility in how long you keep them open. Other options include pergolas with roofs that can be opened and closed using power – rather than by hand.

Or, if you're happy to open and close by hand, but are looking to upgrade your decking ideas with a piece of smart garden furniture that performs multiple roles, this Kettler 3.3m Free Arm with Dual Tilt - Grey Frame / Grey Taupe Canopy from Robert Dyas, currently reduced by £143, offers shade, music and lighting in one.

“Ultimately, smart gardening technology isn't about replacing the gardener, it's about making routine maintenance easier," concludes Martin Chaplin. "By combining smart watering, soil monitoring and automated mowing, homeowners can spend less time on repetitive tasks and more time enjoying their garden."

For more ideas on making your garden functional, check out our guide to creating a garden design that works year round, and while smart garden lighting may save you time, make sure you understand the laws on garden lighting before you start scheduling it.

When done well, pool house ideas can turn a swimming pool from a novelty you use for six weeks a year into something you'll get proper use out of, whatever the weather is doing. But building a pool house is slightly more demanding than it looks. It needs to cope with water, humidity and heavy footfall in a way a garden room never will, and getting the ventilation, services and layout wrong is a far costlier mistake to fix.

Whether you're picturing a simple changing room or a fully kitted out wellness retreat with a sauna and a bar, here's everything you need to think through before you start your build.

Will the pool be covered or open-air?

Whether your swimming pool is open-air or under cover changes the relationship between it and the pool house, and, if your pool doesn't already exist, it's worth deciding early on which one you will build, since it affects layout, humidity and how the two buildings connect.

With an open-air pool, the pool house stays a straightforward support space; changing, storage, somewhere to sit with a drink, with humidity limited to what wet swimmers and towels bring in through the door.

A covered or indoor pool changes that considerably. Even with the water sitting in its own enclosure next door, a pool house serving it will see far higher footfall from damp swimmers moving between the two spaces. Because of this, a covered walkway or close physical connection between the buildings becomes worth considering, both for convenience, and to stop humidity travelling further than it needs to. Expect ventilation to play a bigger role when your pool is indoors, and budget for it accordingly.

Selecting a location for a pool house

Where you put a pool house matters almost as much as how you build it, and it's worth settling on the best place before a single spade goes in the ground. The pool itself is the obvious anchor, but orientation deserves equal billing.

Sophie Chapman, associate and interior designer at The Vawdrey House, puts it plainly.

"Consider how the location and orientation of the building relate to the house, neighbouring properties and the sun's path, as these decisions will have a lasting impact on how successful the space feels."

On her recent Sussex Pool House project (pictured above) that meant mapping sun paths with 3D models before deciding on the roof overhang and glazing, so the space stayed cool in summer rather than turning into a greenhouse.

A pool house's distance from the main house is its own trade-off. Close by and you've got easy access to power, water, and a quick dash back for a forgotten towel. Further away and you get more privacy and a proper sense of escape, at the cost of longer utility runs and a less convenient changing routine.

Boundary distance is worth checking early too, since it shapes both your layout and whether you need planning permission.

Finally, wind and tree cover are easy to forget until they're a problem – a pool house that catches the worst of the wind will lose heat fast and make outdoor swimming a harder sell on cooler days, while a pool under overhanging branches can become a full-time leaf-skimming job.

Planning permission and building regulations

These are two separate approvals, and it's worth understanding the difference before you start rather than assuming one covers the other:.

Planning permission

Most pool houses fall under permitted development, meaning you won't need to apply for planning permission at all, provided the building meets certain size, height and positioning rules.

"The vast majority of our garden rooms used as pool houses can be installed under permitted development, meaning planning permission is not usually required," confirms Makenzie Polden, marketing executive at Green Retreats.

That said, consent becomes necessary, "if a customer wants to exceed permitted development limits with a larger building, or if the property is located in a conservation area, is listed or has other planning restrictions," she adds.

Sophie Chapman echoes this from the architectural side, warning that listed buildings and sensitive sites bring extra layers of approval. "Alongside planning permission, listed building consent may also be needed, and there are often wider factors to assess, including the impact on the site's heritage, landscape and ecology. Depending on the location, additional surveys, such as ecological or archaeological assessments, may also be required." Her advice is to bring in a planning consultant early if your site falls into this category, since they can flag constraints before they become costly redesigns.

These rules vary by local authority and by what's already been built on a plot, since previous extensions or alterations to the property can affect what you're allowed to build next, so it's worth checking with your council before committing to a design.

Building regulations

Building regulations are a separate matter to planning permission and are assessed independently, so you might need approval for one, both or neither.

Many pool houses actually turn out to be exempt from full building control, since small detached buildings under 30m² with no sleeping accommodation are generally exempt, provided they sit at least a metre from the boundary or are built from non-combustible materials. Go over that size and full approval kicks in, covering structural safety and, for larger builds, fire safety and accessibility too.

Buying and building a pool house

There are two broad routes into a pool house, and which one suits you depends on how much control you want over the finished result, how much budget you have, and how much time you're willing to spend getting there.

Modular pool houses

A modular pool house (often adapted from a standard garden room) arrives largely pre-manufactured and can be installed on site within days once the foundations are down.

You're choosing from a defined range rather than a blank page however, so it's worth checking exactly what's included before comparing prices. Makenzie Polden notes that finish matters as much as spec here. "Customers also tend to get far more use from their pool house when it's fully finished and furnished from day one," she adds, "rather than leaving it as a basic shell to complete over time."

Bespoke pool houses

A bespoke build takes longer and costs more, but gives you a pool house designed around your specific site and equipment rather than a standard footprint.

George Lucas, marketing manager at Vale Garden Houses, advises thinking beyond the obvious from the outset. "Build in every facility you think you may need. After all, it could be a long way back to the house to grab a drink or a few extra ice cubes," he warns – a reminder that a pool house needs to work as its own self-contained space, not one where you'll need to keep nipping back to the house to make it functional

Either route can deliver something you'll use year-round. The real question is whether you'd rather choose wisely from what's on offer, or build to your own exact spec.

The best materials for a pool house

Timber frame construction is the default for most pool houses, as it's quick to build, easy to insulate well, and forgiving if you need to add doors or glazing later. Brick and block give you a more permanent, house-like structure with better sound and thermal mass, at the cost of a longer build and a bigger budget. Structural insulated panels (SIPs) sit somewhere between the two, offering strong thermal performance with a faster install than traditional brick or block.

Exterior cladding is where a pool house can do a lot of the aesthetic heavy lifting, and it's worth choosing something that can cope with a damp environment without constant upkeep.

Sophie Chapman recommends using, "larch timber cladding and overhang [to] keep direct sunlight off glazed doors," – a detail that's as functional as it is good-looking, since the overhang reduces glare and heat gain as well as protecting the cladding itself from weathering.

Whatever materials you land on, check what's actually included before comparing quotes across suppliers. Makenzie Polden warns that, "what initially looks like a cheaper option can quickly become more expensive once essential upgrades are added."

Insulation, glazing spec and finish all vary hugely between providers, and a lower headline price can mean paying twice once you add back what was missing.

Utilities and services

Getting power to a pool house

Power usually runs from the main house via armoured cable, either buried underground or clipped along a fence line, into its own dedicated consumer unit rather than an extension of an existing circuit. This falls under Part P of the Building Regulations, so the work must be carried out or signed off by a qualified, registered electrician, whatever else you take on yourself.

What you're powering will shape the spec considerably. A pool house with just lighting and a socket or two is a modest job, but add a pool pump, sauna, hot tub or gym equipment, and both the load and the running cost climb fast.

Modular garden rooms typically build the electrics in as standard. As Makenzie Polden puts it: "A quality garden room should come fully insulated, with electrics, quality glazing and everything needed to create a space that's ready to use from day one."

A bespoke build takes more planning, but lets you size the supply around your actual equipment from the outset. It's also worth knowing what's possible beyond a standard mains connection, an approach Sophie Chapman has seen work well on her own projects.

Photovoltaic panels, a ground source heat pump and battery storage can work together to push a pool house towards off-grid running.

Managing humidity and condensation

"For an indoor or covered pool, we would always specify a dedicated pool dehumidification system," says Sophie Chapman. "This needs to be considered early in the design so that it works properly with the heating, ventilation and layout of the building."

The pool itself should sit within its own enclosed, controlled environment, with the surrounding facilities, WC, shower, bar, storage, planned to stay dry. Getting the zoning and airflow right between the wet pool area and the drier adjoining spaces is, in her words, essential to the relationship between the two.

Heating a pool house

Treat the swimming pool and the building as separate heating jobs. Pool water is typically heated by a heat pump, or less commonly now a gas boiler, sized to pool volume and how many months of the year you want to swim.

A cover, left on whenever the pool isn't in use, can also cut heat loss from the water significantly and is one of the cheapest ways to bring swimming pool costs down.

The pool house itself needs its own heating system entirely, and this is where the specification actually matters. Underfloor heating is the popular choice here specifically because it copes with wet feet and tiled floors better than radiators do, and it frees up wall space in a room that's often tight on it already.

An air source heat pump is generally the cheapest system to run day to day, though it heats more slowly than a direct electric option – worth factoring in if you want the space warm at short notice rather than a couple of hours ahead.

Whatever you choose, sizing the system to the building's insulation standard matters more than the system itself, a well-insulated pool house needs meaningfully less heating capacity, and a smaller ongoing bill, than one that's cutting corners elsewhere.

Lighting for a pool house

Sophie Chapman treats lighting as a whole-setting decision, not something confined to the pool itself.

"Lighting should be considered across the whole setting, rather than treating the pool on its own," she explains. "This includes the pool house, exterior of the building, surrounding landscaping, pathways and the transitions between each area."

Around water specifically, fittings need the correct IP rating for their location, while a layered scheme, combining practical and ambient sources rather than one light doing everything, tends to work best, kept warm in tone and free of glare or abrupt changes.

Along pathways and entrances, PIR sensors are worth considering too, lighting the space exactly when it's needed rather than being left on all evening.

Interiors and finishing touches

Pool house interiors need to work a little harder than your average garden room, contending with wet feet and chlorine in the air. And Makenzie Polden makes the case for finishing properly from the start as it will be instantly useable and designed in the right way to prevent any damage to unfinished surfaces.

Flooring is the decision to get right first, with slip-resistant floor tiles typically beating anything soft underfoot. Furniture-wise, think marine-grade over Instagram-pretty, since outdoor fabrics will outlast anything living-room-soft.

You should build in proper outdoor storage too, as towels, robes, pool toys and the cleaning kit will all need a home.

Beyond the practical calls, interiors are where the space gets to have a bit of personality, whether that's a full spa-style retreat with a garden sauna and changing area, or something simpler that just makes the most of being steps from the water.

FAQs

How much does it cost to build a pool house?

Costs vary hugely depending on the specification. At the lower end, a basic timber structure can start from around £5,000, though this typically won't include much beyond four walls and a roof.

For something more permanent and higher quality, with proper insulation, heating and finishes, prices from established manufacturers start from around £40,000, with bespoke architectural projects likely to sit well above that depending on scope.

As a rough rule, the more infrastructure you build in, heating, ventilation, electrics, plumbing, the more you'll spend upfront, but the more use you'll get out of the space year round.

How long does it take to build a pool house?

This depends heavily on the route you take. Makenzie Polden says the company's typical lead time, from ordering to installation is around twelve weeks, with the modular garden room itself usually installed in one to four days once it arrives on site.

However, George Lucas puts a bespoke project without planning complications at around three months from first conversation to completion, rising if planning permission is needed, since he says that alone, can take around three months until a decision is made.

For a fully bespoke, architect-led pool house, Sophie Chapman says, "allowing around a year from the initial design conversations through to completion is a realistic expectation," particularly where listed building consent or a sensitive site is involved.

Browse our favourite swimming pool ideas for design inspiration, and read up on common swimming pool mistakes before you break ground, since small early decisions can save serious money later.

Not only is it easier to care for, but it's also safe for pets and helps attract pollinators to your outdoor space, making it a great way to create a more eco-friendly garden.

It sounds like a dream on paper, but what do gardening experts really think about clover as a lawn? And should you really swap your grass for it? I asked two experts to hear their thoughts.

Can I replace my lawn with clover?

Yes, you can absolutely replace a grass lawn with clover – but preparation is key.

"If you're replacing an existing lawn completely, removing or significantly weakening the old grass first will give the clover a much better chance to establish evenly," recommends Martin Chaplin, Head of Horticulture at Hedges Direct.

However, you don't need to kill your grass to introduce clover. Martin says that mixed lawns are becoming increasingly popular, "combining the durability of grass with the environmental benefits and drought resilience of clover.”

What are the pros and cons of a clover lawn?

Before you decide to replace your grass with clover, there are some pros and cons to consider, according to Martin Chaplin and Guy Barter, Chief Horticulturist at RHS.

Pros:

• It requires less fertiliser to stay green because it naturally fixes nitrogen from the air
• It is easy to maintain – you'll only need to mow the lawn every three to six weeks
• It's drought-tolerant, making it the perfect choice for dry summer weather
• It provides a food source for bees and other pollinators

Cons:

• Clover will flower if you don't mow it regularly, which isn't ideal for those seeking a manicured garden
• It isn't as sturdy as grass for heavy foot traffic
• It tends to be more slippery than grass

Can I just throw clover seed on my lawn?

While it's certainly possible to overseed an existing lawn with clover, there are a few caveats to keep in mind.

Martin Chaplin warns that you're not going to get the best results by simply scattering seeds over long grass. You'll need to mow the lawn short first, lightly rake the surface, and then keep the area consistently moist until you start to spot seedlings.

You'll also need to get your timing right. Guy Barter recommends planting the seeds in late April to early May when the weather is warm but the ground is still moist. You'll also need to ensure the soil isn't too acidic – it needs to be about 6.0 to 7.0, but this could take years to adjust.

Can I have a clover lawn in the UK?

Yes, the UK offers the perfect climate for a clover lawn to thrive. Guy Barter recommends microleaf white clover, which can be purchased as seeds.

"Before making the switch, think about how you use your lawn. If it's mainly for relaxing and encouraging wildlife, clover is an excellent option," concludes Martin Chaplin. "If it's used regularly by children, pets or for entertaining, a grass or mixed grass-and-clover lawn will provide a more practical balance."

For more gardening advice, read our expert-backed guide to lawn care and find out whether you should remove couch grass.

When we remember the many gold, yellow, cream and white variegated forms of evergreen shrubs, not to mention those tinted in bronze or amber or gold – well, it is easy to see how there are so many from which to choose for your garden design.

No one evergreen shrub does everything, however, so we return to one of the few universal horticultural rules: right plant, right place. Choose the plant whose features you admire, and which fits well with other plants nearby and which will thrive in the conditions where you would like it to grow. Make the right choice and these useful shrubs can become a valuable addition to your plot.

1. Boxwood (Buxus)

• Hardiness: RHS H6
• Height: 1-12ft (30cm-3.5m)
• Uses: Low hedging, formal specimens, foundation planting, containers

Boxwood is an invaluable, cold-hardy, small-leaved, dark green shrub, much used for foundation planting and to provide contrast in informal, natural-style plantings. It develops into a variety of shapes from neat, rounded balls to taller informal bushes.

Although it's generally considered to be a good shrub for low-maintenance gardens, the issue of box blight can be a problem to consider, so look for healthy new disease-resistant boxwoods.

2. Scotch heather (Calluna) 

• Hardiness: RHS H7
• Height: 10-24in (25-60cm)
• Uses: Ground cover, edging, containers, cutting, drying

An excellent shrub for small gardens, this neat summer-flowering and autumn-flowering shrub has upright stems crowded with short leaves and packed with tiny bells. In some varieties, the flowers are double and in others the buds never open but retain their colour for many weeks.

These two groups provide a very long season of colour. Many also have attractive gold or silver foliage.

Heathers need lime-free soil, and sun for most of the day. Clip back after flowering or in spring.

Top varieties to try include H. E. Beale (double pink) and Sandy (golden leaves, long lasting white buds).

3. Common camellia (Camellia)

• Hardiness: RHS H4-5
• Height: 6-8ft (1.8-2.4m)
• Uses: Containers, border specimen, wall shrub

If you're looking for a winter-flowering shrub, this evergreen is a good option. It's a prolific, slightly exotic looking evergreen shrub with glossy foliage and single, semi-double or double flowers that are a little like roses.

Blooming in the autumn, winter or spring, depending on the variety and the climate, the flowers range from 2-5in (5-12.5cm) across and may be red, shades of pink, white or creamy, and are sometimes bicoloured.

When it comes to looking after camellias, they are happiest in partial shade in lime-free conditions. They can be grown in full sun, but must never dry out. They are also happy in garden planters, but will need regular irrigation to keep them growing well.

Top types of camellias to try include Nuccio’s Pearl (double white, tinted pink; spring) and Yuletide (single, golden eyed scarlet; winter), which can be purchased on Thompson & Morgan.

4. Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei)

• Hardiness: RHS H5
• Height: 1-4ft (30cm-1.2m)
• Uses: Ground cover, edging, containers, self-clinging vine, shade gardens

These are neat, slow-growing evergreen shrubs grown mainly for their colourful variegated foliage. Some are low and spreading and make good ground cover plants, some make rounded bushes, a few climb slowly and cling to tree trunks like ivies.

The leaves are small and dark green, but the most attractive varieties have gold or white edges or splashes and many develop pink tints in winter and pink-and-orange fruits.

If variegated varieties produce a shoot that is all green, snip it off with your secateurs.

Look out for Coloratus (vine, purple winter foliage) and Emerald ‘n’ Gold) (bushy, yellow edged leaves, pink winter tints).

5. Japanese aralia (Fatsia)

• Hardiness: RHS H5
• Height: 6-10ft (1.8-3m)
• Uses: Impressive specimen, subtropical-style gardens in colder areas, containers

A bold, architectural evergreen shrub making an impressive feature even when still a young plant, the large, rich dark green leaves are up to 18in (45cm) across and impressively divided into nine lobes.

In autumn, white stems carry branched heads of globular white flower clusters and these are followed by clusters of black spring berries.

It's happy in sun or partial-shade and quickly makes a striking specimen in any container.

Top varieties include Spider’s Web (speckled foliage) and Variegata (white leaf tips).

6. Gardenia (Gardenia)

• Hardiness: RHS H1c
• Height: 2-5ft (60cm-1.5m)
• Uses: Indoor plant, patio or balcony container plant

This is the evergreen shrub that everyone wants to grow and which everyone can grow – even if you have no garden at all. It can be both an indoor plant in colder areas and a summer balcony or patio plant in warmer areas.

Its main feature is its large, usually double, white flowers set against glossy dark green foliage and, in particular, its superb summer and autumn fragrance.

Deadheading flowers when they start to turn brown is advised to improve its appearance.

Good varieties to try include Double Mint (neat, double flowers) and Kleim’s Hardy (single flowers, the most cold hardy).

7. Mountain laurel (Kalmia)

• Hardiness: RHS H6
• Height: 6-15ft (1.m-4.5m)
• Uses: Border specimens, lawn specimens

These are colourful, native evergreens that make a dramatic early summer show that almost rivals rhododendrons. The narrow glossy foliage makes the ideal background for the crowded clusters of starry flowers opening from buds that resemble twists of cake icing.

Colours range from scarlet or deep red through pink shades to white – but with any number of patterns and combinations.

Unlike the best plants for shade, mountain laurel insists on moist, lime-free soil and full sun or a little shade but may become bare at the base, in which case cut back hard in spring and irrigate and feed well.

Top varieties of this summer-flowering shrub include Minuet (white flowers banded red, dwarf) and Olympic Fire (pink flowers open from large red buds).

8. Cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus)

• Hardiness: UK H5
• Height: 6-20ft (2-6m)
• Uses: Privacy screen or hedge

A relatively fast-growing hedge plant, this strong growing, cold hardy shrub, is usually wider than tall, with narrow leathery glossy evergreen leaves. Cherry laurel is one of the best options if you're looking for a dense privacy screening plant or hedge and an attractive flowering specimen.

In spring upright spikes of creamy flowers stand up vertically from the branches like candles and are followed by red, cherry-like berries that turn black as they mature. It will grow happily in any fertile soil in sun or light shade.

Top varieties are Schipkaensis (taller, bushier and especially frost hardy) and Otto Luyken (dwarf, flowers prolifically).

9. Rhododendron

• Hardiness: RHS H4-6
• Height: 1-20ft (30cm-6m)
• Uses: Flowering specimens, border features, containers

The most colourful of all flowering evergreen shrubs, rhododendrons are tough, cold hardy shrubs featuring flared, trumpet-shaped flowers in a vast variety of colours and colour combinations, often prettily spotted. Ranging in height from a few inches to many feet, the foliage too brings us an additional all year feature.

It insists on lime-free soil types, most appreciate a little shade although many will flower well in sun if the soil is not parched.

The top types to choose from are evergreen azaleas (neat growth, spectacular in flower) and Yakushimanun Hybrids (very hardy and easy to grow, impressive foliage).

10. Laurustinus (Viburnum tinus)

• Hardiness: RHS H4
• Height: 6-20ft (1.8-6m)
• Uses: Good as tall ground cover, an informal hedge, a border specimen, foundation planting, and smaller varieties are good in containers. Increasingly popular for cutting.

A dependable and versatile evergreen shrub with dark green oval foliage that makes the perfect background to show off the clusters of small fragrant pink or white flowers in winter, often opening from darker pink or red buds. In mild areas the flowers may open from autumn into early spring, with black berries to follow.

In terms of ongoing care, this variety is happy in fertile soil in shade, or in partial shade if the roots are moist.

Good types of viburnum to try include Eve Price (compact growth, bright pink buds) and Spirit (‘Anvi’) ’ (white flowers from autumn to spring).

FAQs

Do you need to prune evergreen shrubs?

When it comes to pruning shrubs, there is no one rule of pruning for all evergreens, but they can conveniently be divided into three groups.

• Evergreen shrubs that flower in the summer or autumn, including Scotch heather and Japanese aralia, are pruned in the spring when growth is starting.
• Evergreen shrubs that flower in winter or spring, such as mountain laurel and camellia, are best pruned soon after flowering.
• Those evergreen shrubs that are grown for their foliage can either be left unpruned, or cut back in spring to encourage fresh new growth, or clipped over once or twice a year to maintain a neat shape.

How can I make sure evergreen shrubs in containers survive the winter?

Evergreen shrubs growing in planters will take less cold than those planted in the open ground.

In late autumn, move your containers close to the wall of your house or into a sheltered corner of your garden.

Use pot feet to lift the container above the ground to allow surplus moisture to drain away – otherwise, in icy conditions, the whole pot will freeze solid and the roots of your evergreen will be frozen in a block of water! An alternative situation is to place them in a porch or cool sun room.

If you live in an area that experiences colder winters, you can provide more protection for your evergreen shrubs by planting them in a sheltered part of your garden or by providing a garden fence or windbreak as protection against icy winds.

If they do show signs of damage, some plants will make fresh growth in spring if you prune out the damaged shoots.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Whether you're planting roses in pots or growing them in your flowerbeds, these classic garden plants can be prone to a few complications.

Luckily, most can be treated, so don't let them put you off adding them to your garden. We've brought together advice on five of the most common ailments that roses can suffer from, to help keep your plants looking tip-top.

1. Rust disease

Rust is a fungal disease that causes orange and black blemishes on the underside of the leaves and stems of roses. It can also cause leaves to fall prematurely.

John Negus, a renowned horticulturalist and gardening journalist, advises treating affected plants by spraying them with a systemic insecticide and fungicide such as RoseClear Ultra, available on Amazon, and then collecting and burning affected leaves. "New growth will be healthy," he says.

You can help prevent it by sprinkling sulphate of potash over the root area of your plants from mid-spring to early fall, he adds. This Westland sulphate of potash from Amazon is pre-measured and easy to apply to your plants.

Some modern types of roses are also resistant to this problem, so bear this in mind when choosing plants for your garden.

2. Leafhoppers

Rose leafhoppers feed on rose leaf surfaces, creating a finely mottled effect. Damage is worse in long, dry summers and often results in premature leaf fall.

Using eco-friendly garden ideas to encourage predatory insects and other creatures to your plot, such as birds and ladybirds, can help prevent infestations. You can also tackle them with pesticides, but fundamentally, leafhoppers are usually not too much of a cause for concern and, in many cases, can be tolerated.

3. Rose balling

If you've noticed your roses becoming withered with brown patches and buds failing to open properly, it could be a problem called 'rose balling'. This is especially common in double varieties, and can affect other plants in your garden design, such as peonies, too.

"It often occurs when wet weather is followed by hot sunshine," explains Christine Walkden, a gardening expert and BBC TV presenter.

"The outer petals of the rosebuds become scorched and papery, and distort the inner petals as they open out. The bud and flowers may then be infected with grey mould.

"There is no treatment for the problem other than pruning out the affected buds," she continues. "You can also help your roses by avoiding watering in bright or hot sunshine, so try watering in the evenings instead."

John Negus says that avoiding splashing the flower buds when watering your roses can help, too. Planting them where there is good air circulation can also be beneficial in preventing rose balling, as any rain that adheres to the leaves and petals will dry quicker.

Another way to help prevent this problem is to feed your rose with sulphate of potash in mid-spring and continue monthly until early autumn, he adds. "Water it in and it will help new growth resist adverse weather conditions."

4. Sawfly

Sawfly is generally seen as one of the more troublesome rose pests.

"The adult lays her eggs inside the soft stems of roses, which then split open leaving long scars on the stems," says John. "Once hatched, the green larvae feed voraciously on the leaves." Damaged leaves roll inwards along their length, and remain that way for the rest of the season.

To treat this pest, remove affected stems, remove the larvae by hand, or use an insecticide spray in early summer, following the manufacturer's instructions carefully. "Do not spray once the rose is in flower to avoid harming pollinating insects," says John.

If the leaves on your roses are already affected, remove and burn them.

"Some varieties, such as 'Peace', 'Albertine', 'Masquerade', and 'Queen Elizabeth' are more susceptible to attack than others," he adds.

5. Powdery mildew

If your rose plants have become covered in a greyish-white, powdery coating, they are likely to be suffering from powdery mildew. It's a common disease caused by the fungus Podosphaera pannosa, and can affect the plants' vigour. Humidity increases the risk of it developing, as can drought-stress.

You can help prevent this problem by making sure you plant your rose in the optimal position in your flowerbed or garden planter. This means providing good air circulation around it, ensuring it gets enough sunshine throughout the day, and making sure the soil is moisture-retentive but well-draining.

Treat it by pruning out affected areas and disposing of them as soon as you spot the problem developing, says the RHS. During routine rose pruning in spring, it's also best to cut out shoots showing larger patches of mildew around the thorns.

You can also treat powdery mildew with a fungicide, following manufacturers' instructions.

With their beautiful fragrance and romantic, cottage garden aesthetic, there's good reason why roses are many gardeners' favourite bloom.

Although roses are generally relatively easy to care for, knowing how to spot any potential pests or diseases will ensure they have the best possible chance of producing brilliant blooms year after year.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Organising your garden might seem like a massive job, but after speaking to the experts, I've discovered that it doesn't have to be. All it takes is five simple products that work hard in the background.

Below, you'll find the core essentials used in organised garden designs, as recommended by the pros.

1. Storage bench

A storage bench (or any other piece of multifunctional furniture, for that matter) is one of the best investments you can make for your outdoor space – especially if you're looking for budget small garden ideas.

Jenny Davis, Head of Marketing at Forest Garden, agrees. "A storage bench can provide seating and a practical place to keep cushions, throws or children’s outdoor toys, helping the space feel calmer and more considered.”

Top tip: make sure you choose a storage bench that's weatherproof and well-ventilated to ensure your belongings stay damp- and mould-free throughout the cold and rainy months.

Our favourite storage benches

2. A dedicated bike shed

Feel free to skip to number three if you don't have a bike, but for those who do, a dedicated shed is a must-have, according to Jenny Davis.

For one, bikes and scooters are often used more regularly than other items you may store in your shed, so they benefit from being easily accessible. Secondly, they also take up much more space, so it's best to store them separately to avoid having to climb over them.

"A dedicated bike shed can be a brilliant solution because it keeps cycles protected from the weather while stopping them from taking over patios, side returns or garages," adds Jenny.

3. Wheelie bin storage

If you've spent hours perfecting your garden design, the last thing you want is an unsightly wheelie bin spoiling the view – especially now that most households have around five different containers.

While you can't leave your bins out on the street, that doesn't mean they have to take over your garden. You can disguise or hide them with one of the best wheelie bin storage ideas, as shown above.

Not only will these keep your bins out of sight, but many will also prevent pests from getting inside. Storing them in a purpose-built storage unit, rather than on the grass, can also stop them making a mess of your lawn.

"I like to include a simple timber screen or slatted enclosure within the design from the beginning, positioning it close enough to the house for convenience while keeping it out of the main view from the garden and inside the home," says Mirela Bajic of House Designer.

Wheelie bin storage picks

4. Gardening tool rack

Everyone with a garden, no matter how much gardening they do, should invest in a dedicated tool rack, as shown in the photo above. They're incredibly useful for storing everything from gloves to rakes, ensuring everything is easy to locate.

If you have plenty of room in your shed, you may want to invest in a freestanding unit with built-in racks, hooks and shelving. Those with a smaller shed could install a wall-mounted option to free up valuable floor space.

If you do decide to go for a wall-mounted option, you could go one step further by labelling each hook so everything gets put back in the right spot.

Tool racks worth buying

5. Automatic wall-mounted hose

If, like me, your garden hose is always in a tangled mess on the floor, I've found the perfect solution: an automatic wall-mounted hose reel, like the one from Amazon below.

Instead of having to wind up your hose by hand (or leaving it strewn across the lawn when you can't be bothered), this style retracts it for you while freeing up floor space.

After hearing my dad rave about his for weeks, I've finally caved and will be adding one to my outdoor space pronto.

"One of the biggest mistakes is buying storage without measuring properly or thinking about access. Good garden organisation should make life simpler, not create another awkward corner to work around," concludes Jenny Davis.

If you found this helpful, you may also want to read our guide on how to organise a porch and how to organise a utility room.

While the concept of sitting down to enjoy meals in the garden might be a nice one, the reality does not always match the dream. Without the right patio design ideas or proper set-up all kinds of things can spoil the experience, from nosey neighbours to wobbly tables and chairs.

I am desperate to squeeze the most out of summer this year, and have decided it's time for me to create the perfect outdoor dining area. I reached out to some top garden and landscaping experts for their help and they took me through the 7 key elements for creating the ideal space.

1. Get your sizes spot on for a comfortable experience

While I wouldn't say my patio is small, I am considering expanding it a little in a bid to make it feel a little less cramped when there are lots of people around the table. The experts explained to me that, while you shouldn't let a small patio put you off creating a space to eat outdoors, it does pay to think about how comfortable an overly-cramped dining space will be to eat in.

Garden design and consultation specialist Jamie Haire explains that it is wise to first think about how many people you need to seat and the size of your table. "I recently designed a space to take a table measuring 2m x 1m and made the patio 3m x 4m – that allowed plenty of space for people to move around."

"It's best to allow at least one metre clearance around the table on all sides for chairs and movement," adds Mirela Bajic, senior garden designer at House Designer.

2. Straight lines tend to work better than curved

This is one area I appear to have got right. While curves and circular areas of planting can contribute to some beautiful garden landscaping ideas, according to the experts I spoke to, when it comes to dining areas, straight lines tend to make better use of space.

"Everyone likes curves, but for dining outside, they just don't work that well," says Jamie Haire. "When you create a rectangular or square space you get more bang for your buck – and then you can use lots of planting surrounding the space to soften the whole look and create a connection with nature."

Mirela Bajic agrees agrees that linear spaces are the way to go and suggests using your table shape as a guide. "Matching the shape of the patio to the shape of the table is great for aesthetics. Circular looks beautiful but wastes usable space around the edges."

3. Choose ground surfaces with care

Perhaps one of the most important elements of outdoor dining area design is the garden paving ideas you go with – your choice will not only have a massive effect on the look of the space but also on how well it performs, both now, and over time. My own patio has sandstone slabs which actually work well – although they require regular cleaning to stay looking good.

"My favourites are limestone or another form of natural stone – as well as York stone," reveals Jamie Haire. "New York stone works particularly well as it is calibrated and gives an even, smooth surface. Make sure you lay paving with tight joints so that chair legs don't get stuck in them.

"Natural stone can stain if grease gets on it so it must be properly sealed – and choose a slightly etched finish to make sure it doesn't get slippery in the wet," he adds, going on to explain that some newer kinds of decking can also be a great option.

"Composite decking is a good option, or oak setts. Allgreen charred oak setts can be used to create a pad of paving than works brilliantly under furniture," Jamie suggests.

While Jamie's preference is for natural materials, Mirela Bajic points out that porcelain is a great low-maintenance alternative. "Porcelain is the easiest to maintain, does not stain, does not need sealing and cleans with a hose. It's always popular with our clients," she notes.

4. Your lighting will make or break the scheme

This is one area where my outdoor dining space really falls flat. It is lit by two wall lights on the outside of the house. A more thoughtful approach would really transform it.

"Garden lighting is my favourite part of designing an outdoor dining area," says Jamie Haire. "Set all your lighting on dimmers so you can change the ambience – light up surrounding trees, use downlighters in your pergola and consider an outdoor chandelier over your table."

Alina Enache, co-founder of Lamp Genius, also suggests using multiple light sources for the best effect. "For dining areas, I recommend a few different layers of lighting – either solar or using your mains supply.

"First, use portable outdoor table and floor lamps for surrounding tables and sofas," continues Alina. "If the area is next to a wall, you can utilise this by adding exterior wall lights such as an up-and-down wall washer, which provides a nice ambient light for the area. Post or bollard lights are great for surrounding the dining area or lighting a pathway leading up to it," she suggests.

"Finally, string lights are perfect for hanging over the entire area, but try to choose styles which are not overpowering in terms of light output, as you want to create a balance between the other lights in the space. I always recommend using a warm white colour temperature for outdoor dining areas (2700k)."

Shop garden lighting

5. Shading is non-negotiable

For your dining space to be a pleasure to spend time in, even in the middle of a hot day, you need to think of a few patio cover ideas that could work – this is something I am keen to address as ours currently has none. Choose wisely and your shading can also double up as a rain cover.

"No-one wants to be eating in the full glare of the sun," picks up Jamie Haire. "I always include some form of shading in my designs. Louvred pergolas with slats that can open and close work really well, as do retractable canopies."

Mirela Bajic also highlights the importance of thinking about the orientation of your dining area when considering shading methods. "South or south-west facing spaces catch the sun in the afternoon and evening, which is when most people dine outdoors. Either a fixed pergola or even a large umbrella will help to manage shade on hot days."

Shop patio shading

6. Outdoor dining areas can be set away from the house

My patio is set next to the kitchen wall and this does come in handy when it comes to passing cutlery and dishes out of the kitchen window, but these days, there is no need for an outdoor dining space to always be in such close proximity to the house.

According to Jamie Haire, it all depends on the garden and house in question. "Some people, with open plan kitchens and large glazed openings, want their dining space to lead directly off from this. However, I prefer it when the dining area is pushed back a little with planting to separate it from the house. It is nice to take a journey through the 'rooms' of the garden to get there – although you need to make sure to create a clear pathway," he advises.

"The rise of the outdoor kitchen has also made it less important for outdoor dining areas to be next to the house," adds Jamie. "Most of my clients these days ask for a gas connection to outside so they can cook out there."

7. Design features to create a sense of seclusion

Finally, once you have gone to all the trouble of creating your dream dining space in your garden, the last thing you want is for it to feel overlooked. Tall hedging means this isn't a problem for me, but, with neighbours on both sides, I still feel a little conscious of being eavesdropped on when eating outside. This is why it is so important to design in some patio privacy ideas.

"Carefully positioned trees are the best way to provide privacy around a dining space," says Jamie Haire. "Choose multi-stemmed varieties and combine them with dense shrubs and planting. It is also a good idea to keep your dining area away from any boundaries between you and your neighbours. You can use your privacy measures, be that planting or a pergola, to form your views from the space."

And Jamie has a great way of heightening the sense of seclusion using sound too. "Adding in a water feature creates a calming kind of white noise so you don't feel you are being listened in on."

FAQs

Should you ever put an outdoor dining space on grass?

We all love a picnic and the feeling of grass underfoot, but a dining area on grass? Is it ever a good idea – even if you are after cottage garden patio ideas?

"No," states Jamie. "Firstly think how tricky it'll be to mow around. Secondly, the ground will be soft and full of moisture after it rains.

"I would, however, consider gravel," continues Jamie. "You can get self-binding gravel – such as this Somerset Buff Selfbinda from Allgreen – that compacts itself over time and sets hard."

How do you keep bugs from spoiling your al fresco meals?

My daughter is a total bug hater, meaning most outdoor meals are frequently disturbed by lots of squealing and arm waving. I asked Jamie Haire whether there was a way of designing a bug-free dining space.

"In short, no," says Jamie. "You want to encourage creatures into your garden. Of course, you can use citronella candles and sprays, but really it is a case of just using measures like cloches over food. It is all part of the experience."

Torn between patio or decking for your outdoor dining space? Both can work really well but be sure to look into all their pros and cons before making your final decision. And, if you're creating a new patio especially for dining, be sure to avoid these common patio mistakes.

Waterproof shade sails can also protect against showers in rainy weather, allowing you to spend more time outside in comfort. These semi-permanent structures are an excellent addition to any garden or patio area as they are so easy to install and are available in various designs to suit all individual styles.

Whether you're looking to shelter a compact deck or a larger outdoor dining space, these practical and often budget-friendly designs are one of the best patio ideas out there.

1. Shield your interior space from the sun

Awnings are excellent for gardens that get bathed in sunshine as they provide shade right at the entrance to your property, the ideal location for a dining table. In doing so, this coverage allows you to leave your patio doors open without worrying that your home may overheat.

Their downside is that awnings are an expensive purchase, likely to set you back a fair amount. Luckily, you can create a similar patio cover set up with an inexpensive rectangular shade sail. Simply attach two fixtures to your exterior wall just above your patio doors, with the other two outer corners attached to nearby poles, trees or adjacent garden walls.

"A sail shade can be a more affordable option to an awning," says Evie Lane, former gardening expert at Primrose. "They also provide the benefit of being a more flexible garden addition than a permanent awning structure."

2. Shelter an outdoor living space with a sail shade

If you're not a fan of pergola ideas, a sail shade is a great alternative for creating shade where you need it most (which is usually your outdoor living area).

Add a design overhead and you will have a space that you can enjoy even when the sun is at its hottest and highest, while enhancing the feeling of having an ‘extra room’ outdoors.

Triangular sails work best for covering smaller or more precise areas, while square or rectangular sails provide greater coverage but require more space and stronger support.

3. Supersize your sail shade for sun safety

Go for a big design if you want to ensure your patio furniture space stays completely sheltered from the sun. The shade sail above by Wayfair offers 98% UV resistance, so you can stay warm alfresco without having to reapply sunscreen every couple of hours.

Alternatively, if you lack the space for a large sail, a mini version will work just as well. Small shade sail ideas are a stylish alternative to garden parasols and are perfect for sheltering a bistro set.

If you choose a waterproof option, ensure that one corner is lower to allow sufficient drainage.

4. Invest in a semi-permanent shade

Shade sails are often sold without the fixtures or poles needed to set them up in your garden as a freestanding design. Each shade sail set up has different needs depending on your outdoor space, so these can usually be purchased separately from the same company.

The gazebo/shade sail hybrid above, however, comes complete with all the fixtures and fittings required to install it freestanding in your garden right away. The frame is made from powder-coated steel and the sail is fixed on in multiple points to ensure a solid and taut shade.

We love how it creates a really simple yet stylish patio or decking cover, drawing attention to the main outdoor seating area in this urban back garden.

5. Try some colour overhead

While the majority of shade sails tend to be white, they do come in a variety of colours, just like you find with patio umbrellas and awnings.

If your garden needs a bit of a style boost whilst being kind to your bank balance, colourful shade sail ideas are perfect for creating a cheap garden shelter with a dash of warmth. They can also be a great way to create a BBQ shelter, offering protection from the sun when you are cooking alfresco.

Shop colourful shade sails

6. Shelter while you dine

The joy of dining outdoors can be somewhat kerbed if you’re sweating into your salad in the hot sun.

Although a pergola can be a wonderful shade-creating addition to an outdoor kitchen space, if you don't have the time and means to learn how to build a pergola, then a shade sail is a quick and cheap alternative.

Hanging a shade sail overhead means that you and your guests can enjoy the fresh air that outdoor dining affords, without feeling uncomfortable as you eat.

7. Zone a corner with a shade sail

A corner outdoor sofa placed against a garden wall or tall garden fence is perfectly matched with a triangular shade sail.

Depending on the size and length of your sofa, you may need to choose a triangular design that has two long sides and one short, or an equilateral shape to ensure everyone seated gets the most amount of shade when the sun is at its highest. Secure it to the wall or fence in the corner and to the far edges on the two outer sides.

8. Go small for both sun and shade options

Some people like to be bathed in sunshine, while others prefer to keep cool in the shade. Give everyone the luxury of both options by hanging a small triangular shade over a square or rectangular seating area.

In the example above, the shade partially covers the table, giving everyone the option to choose where they want to sit comfortably.

9. Choose a portable sail shade

One of the issues when going for a picnic or camping is the lack of shade while you relax outdoors. Unlike features such as garden arbours, shade sails are perfectly portable – all you need is a vertical surface or tree and a few lengths of rope to hang the corners from.

What’s more, they will also protect you from an unexpected rain shower, too. If the rain does make an appearance, just make sure that you tension your sail fully in order for the rainwater to run off.

FAQs

Which is the best shade sail design for my space?

Shade sails usually come in a range of shapes – square, rectangle, equilateral triangle and right-angled triangle.

"There is no size or shape that is any better than the next," explains Claire Maclean, Founder of Clara Shade Sails. "It all depends on the space you are trying to cover, where your fixing points are and how much shade and weather protection you want."

"You’ll want to order a shade sail that is slightly smaller than the area you want to cover," advises Nadia McCowan Hill, Resident Style Advisor at Wayfair. "A smaller size prevents the sail from blowing around in windy weather and causing structural damage to the attachment points."

"When installing the shade sail, you will pull it taut and stretch it as far as possible. It’s key that the material of your shade sail begins 30cm from your anchor point."

What can you use for shade sail posts?

"Once you've chosen the location for your shade sail that works best, you need to determine the attachment points. These can be trees, your house, a fence post, or any sturdy structure such as a pergola," says Nadia McCowan Hill.

How taut should a shade sail be?

"If you're just wanting a sail to create some temporary shade, then many of our customers are happy to just loosely tie their sails," says Claire Maclean. "Installing this way achieves more of a billowy look and, particularly with the smaller sails, this can look and work quite nicely in a garden and also inside in a conservatory."

"If, however, you are intending to use the sail during wet weather or are intending to leave it out as a more permanent addition to your patio then your sail should ideally be pulled very tight. The curved sides allow for this additional tension," Claire advises.

"One of our customers used the term 'tight as a drum' to describe her successful installation. Pulling them taut and installing them on an angle will make sure the water runs off and doesn’t pool or puddle on top."

Are shade sails good for rain?

"We recommend that shade sails are taken down during extreme weather such as high winds and very heavy rain,", advises Claire Maclean, Founder Director at Clara Shade Sails.

"If you are intending to use a shade sail during wet weather," continues Claire, "you must install your sail at an angle of 20-30 degrees, depending on the size of your sail, to allow any rain water to run off.

"Where some posts are higher than others, a diagonal line will be involved which will change the length of your measurement. If square or rectangle, two of the corners will need to be positioned lower than the others, and if a triangle, at least one of the corners. However, if water does collect on top, all is not lost. Just use a broom handle or similar to push from underneath to push the water off the top," she says.

Offering protection from the sun and rain, these innovative shade sail ideas are a great addition to any garden space. Quicker and easier to install than more permanent patio covers, they're a cost-effective way to create a more comfortable outdoor living area.

Adding a shade sail is also a way of creating a more private outdoor space during the warmer months. For a more permanent garden screening idea, you might want to consider investing in one of the best trees for privacy too.

An overhead cover isn't just practical, but it can also give the visual appeal of your zone a boost. And, it can even up the sense of privacy – handy for overlooked, urban spaces.

So, if you you've found yourself cooking outside more this year, then it's well worth considering BBQ shelter ideas, to protect you both from the sun and showers.

1. Create semi-shade with a striking side structure

Looking for a BBQ shelter to suit a modern garden? Something like this could be the perfect approach.

Adding such a simple, yet statement structure over your BBQ or outdoor kitchen is a great way to provide respite from the summer sun's glare. What's more, it provides definition to the zone.

Of course, it looks super stylish, too – we particularly like the contrast it provides against all the cool paved surroundings. And the bordering plants are the ideal match for a splash of architectural greenery.

2. Install a chic garden building for an outdoor living room

If you've got the budget and the space, consider a contemporary garden building to house your alfresco cooking and entertaining zone.

Integrated lights, chic wooden paneling, and a sturdy roof make this the perfect base for outdoor socialising in style – whatever time of day and whatever season.

A large, laid-back dining setup and comfy sofa complete this garden pergola idea – what more could you need for post-swim refreshments?

3. Choose a timber gazebo to shelter your BBQ

Gazebos are a classic garden feature that will never go out of style, particularly if you opt for a timber-framed version.

As long as you ensure there's enough clearance around your appliance, they are a great solution for covering an outdoor grill and complement almost any style of garden.

Pair your BBQ gazebo with timber-cladded counters to enhance the laid-back, naturalistic look and maintain a sense of cohesion. And for an even more comfortable outdoor experience, consider adding patio heaters attached up high to the structure. That way, you can keep guests happy and conversation flowing, even as night falls and temperatures drop.

4. Include a bar in your BBQ shelter

Combine your built-in BBQ ideas with a garden bar for the ultimate garden party setup. Add in a pizza oven, too, and you can mix up your culinary creations to suit the mood.

This sturdy shelter sits beautifully in the patio space, complementing the nearby rattan furniture. Cladded walls on two sides mean there's plenty of privacy screening from neighbours, while enabling the addition of useful shelves and decorative signs.

Shop furniture and decor for your BBQ area

5. Team a contemporary BBQ with a modern pergola

Plenty of people consider pergolas when designing decks or patios, and for good reason. From simple, timber constructions to high-tech, louvered designs with closing pergola roofs, they're a classic solution for providing a spot of shade.

And, there are plenty of ways they can be dressed up to elevate the look and feel of your outdoor space, too – from climbing plants trained around their structure to outdoor garden lighting.

We love how this design mirrors the BBQ station with its industrial-cool charcoal tone. And, the duo of pendant lights are both pretty and practical.

6. Get back to basics and BBQ over a garden fireplace

Love the thought of outdoor fireplace ideas for your garden? These rustic features are a surefire way to make a statement. And they aren't just for keeping everyone feeling cosy – add in some racks and grilling tools and you can cook up a feast over the flames.

Install your fireplace and chimney into a designated garden building and you can guarantee that it will get plenty of use all throughout the year. You could even take inspiration from this scene in terms of the log storage solution used – a stylish way to separate a dining area from a more relaxed, lounging zone.

7. Add lights to your outdoor structure for nighttime BBQs

Any patio screening idea can benefit from some outdoor lights. That way, the space will feel just as welcoming when the sun sets – just what you want when hosting summer evening soirées with loved ones. Take a look at this stunning setup, for instance.

Strings of festoon lights attached to the beams of a pergola or the roof of a gazebo are always a reliable choice for recreating that chilled-out, beach-bar vibe. And as well as boosting the ambience, it will allow you to see exactly what you're doing should you wish to continue cooking.

8. Keep your BBQ shelter simple and sleek

Keep the look clean and considered with a slick garden build like this that doubles up to define the boundary of your plot.

Recessed spotlights are always a good option for that subtle, streamlined look – whether you install them into the ceiling or into the paving or decking underfoot. This space benefits from under-counter lighting too – a contemporary way to brighten up any outdoor eating or dining area.

We also like the mix of materials here, which includes brushed stainless steel and granite worktops and plenty of timber for a relaxed, organic feel.

9. Add extra shelter with slatted panels

Opting for slatted panels, whether it's on a garden building like this or a simple screen between garden zones, is a great way to provide privacy and shelter while allowing light and air through.

It results in a pleasing, modern look, that's both stylish and practical. It can be particularly helpful in west-facing gardens where the late afternoon or evening sun may still be too bright. Pair with brightly coloured counters for a fun scheme that's perfect for a family garden.

10. Cover your cooking zone with an oversized parasol

When considering BBQ shelter ideas, don't forget about the less permanent options as well. Sometimes, a large garden parasol is just the thing for the job – particularly if you don't want to splash too much cash, or prefer to let the full force of the sunlight in at times.

One of the main benefits of a parasol, besides the generally lower price, is that they are so versatile – simply pop them up in the case of light drizzle or glaring sun. A side-pole design is often the best choice as it won't get in the way as you cook. And, for evening entertaining, you could take inspiration from this scene and suspend string lights around the canopy.

Shop for outdoor parasols

FAQs

What do you need to consider when choosing a BBQ shelter for your plot?

There are lots of factors to bear in mind when choosing your BBQ shelter ideas. One of the most important aspects is, of course, the safety implications. Jacques Shelton, MD of CENA Outdoor Kitchens, explains how any type of parasol, fabric shade, or shelter will need to be flame retardant, so always check the specifications to be sure.

If you're using a fabric shelter, Jacques also advises choosing a wipe-clean or washable design, "to prevent stains from smoke or flare-ups if you use a parasol over a BBQ or wood-fired oven."

Jacques also notes the importance of providing plenty of clearance between the heat source and fabric – essential even when it is flame retardant. This goes for sturdier structures too – if in any doubt, always check with the manufacturer as well as checking your BBQ requirements. And, "if a space is in any way enclosed, think about ventilation," he adds. "For example, ensuring there is the ability to open doors, glass walls, and roofs."

You'll want your shelter to be practical for your needs, as well as safe. "We think carefully about what the canopy is for, as rain covers and shades may need different solutions," explains Jacques. "Rain covers can be fixed, such as an oak-framed gazebo or a dedicated open-on-two-sides garden building. But, those going for shade solutions will need to consider the aspect and the movement of the sun, so we consider the best position or use something which can be moved – for example, a sail shade."

Fancy creating your own BBQ? Find out how to build a brick BBQ yourself, and if you think you might be hardy enough for year-round outdoor cooking, take a look at the best outdoor log-burners for a spot of extra warmth.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Bay tree problems are generally not too complicated – their easy care regime is one of the reasons they make one of the best trees to grow in pots. However, if you've spotted yellowing leaves, odd markings, loss of vigour, or other unexpected symptoms on your tree, then you'll likely want to get to the cause.

Below, we've rounded up top advice on how to identify and treat common issues that occur with these structural, aromatic trees, so you can continue to enjoy them in your back garden.

1. Scale insects

If you've spotted odd blemishes on the leaves of your bay tree, they have turned yellow and started to drop off, or have become coated in a sticky-like substance, scale insects may be the problem.

As John Negus, a renowned horticulturalist and gardening journalist explains, these are tiny, armadillo-shaped creatures that weaken trees by feeding on sap while releasing a sticky, honeydew-like substance.

You can control them with an insecticide that's safe to use on edible crops. Based on rape seed oil, it clogs the pest's breathing pores, which kills it. It is recommended for several pests. Alternatively, John suggests spraying the tree with a mild solution of washing-up liquid and water.

Additionally, fertilising the plants with sulfate of potash monthly from mid-spring to early fall is a good idea. Sprinkle it over the root area at 28g per square metre and water it in.

2. Restricted roots

If you have planted your bay tree in a garden planter and it's looking unhappy, it could be the size of the pot that's the problem.

Your tree could be distressed because its container is full of roots, so move the tree to a pot that is at least double the existing size. Water the compost to loosen feeding roots clinging to the side of the pot and gently remove the rootball.

Then, in the new pot, add a layer of crocks and nestle the roots into 7cm of soil-based compost mixed with a quarter part, by volume, of grit. Fill with more compost.

Replant the bay at the same depth at which it is growing and water it well. Mulching the top of the compost with slate or grit will help conserve moisture.

3. Bay suckers

Brown, curling leaves on a bay tree can be a sign of bay suckers – a pest resembling fluffy white stars that devours leaf undersides.

"When feeding, this creature causes the plant's leaves to develop thick, distorted bulges," explains John Negus. "Luckily, although this is unsightly, it doesn't do irrevocable damage to the bay." However, severe infestations can cause leaves to drop prematurely, and shoots to die.

As for controlling it, the best approach is to pick off and bin or burn affected foliage. Clear away fallen leaves and other debris from the base of the plant, too.

You could also use a pesticide, although several applications may be necessary. Remember to use one that's safe for edible crops if using the leaves for cooking. Ideally, do this during warm sunny days in spring, when the adults cluster on the shoot tips to feed before laying their eggs.

"Alternatively, encourage natural predators such as birds, ladybirds, wasps and ground beetles to frequent your garden," says John.

4. Leaf spot

Leaf spot is a fungal disease, which, John Negus explains, shows as necrotic gray or brown spots on the leaf.

"The best way to deal with
it is through good hygiene
and improved growing conditions," he says.

Start by removing affected leaves and raking up any fallen leaves. Then, feed the plant a balanced fertiliser early in spring to encourage new growth.

5. Winter damage

Bay trees are generally hardy to -5°C, according to the RHS, and can survive even lower temperatures if planted in a sheltered position. Simply wrapping pots in two layers of heavy-duty bubble wrap, covering the compost surface with 7–10cm of chipped bark, and positioning pots close to a south-facing wall is usually enough.

However, it's not a good idea to prune them during cold weather. Frosts can damage the cut surfaces, resulting in possible dieback. Instead, trimming the trees several times during the growing season is needed, stopping in early autumn.

Harsh winter conditions can also cause the bark to peel and crack, especially on main stems lower down on the plants, says the RHS. Although it may look unsightly, it tends not to be fatal, and generally, bays should recover the following summer. If parts of the plant die, however, simply remove these by cutting back to healthy wood or right down to near soil level.

These bay tree problems may be common, but by keeping an eye out for the above symptoms and following our expert-backed solutions, they’ll be revived in no time.

For more gardening advice, read our guide to box blight or learn about the worst time of year to prune a hedge.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

While moles are not dangerous and don't tend to eat plants, their digging can cause a big old mess on your lawn, so we don't blame you if you're looking for ways to get rid of them.

However, it's worth bearing in mind that moles are protected against cruelty under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1996, so extra care needs to be taken when dealing with them (which we would recommend anyway). To find out how to prevent them from tearing up your garden, keep reading.

How do I get rid of moles in my lawn?

When it comes to preventing moles in your garden, it all boils down to making the environment as unappealing as possible so they don't want to stick around for long. You can do this in three ways:

1. Keep the soil dry

Moles prefer damp or wet soil because it's easier to dig through. If possible, Tony King, Founder of The Pied Piper, recommends reducing excessive irrigation. Not only will this make the environment harder for them to tunnel through, but it will also reduce their food source (worms).

2. Install a sonic device

You may also want to install ultrasonic repellers, which emit low-frequency sounds and vibrations that moles find uncomfortable (it won't harm or kill them). These devices are also commonly used around the home to prevent other unwanted pests, such as rats and mice.

3. Have a cat or dog

If you've been thinking about adopting a new furry friend, we have some good news – they may also help deter moles from your garden, according to Darren Backhouse, Partner at MJ Backhouse Pest Control. While we wouldn't encourage you to get a pet for just this reason, it is a little bonus!

Why have moles suddenly appeared in my garden?

Wondering why moles have suddenly started appearing in your garden?

Darren Backhouse explains, "Most people only notice they have a mole when molehills appear, so the mole might have been there longer than you realise. They're attracted to damp soil where there’s a good food source for them."

How long will moles live in a garden?

Unless the soil becomes too dry or their food source declines, Darren Backhouse says that moles won't go away on their own and can live for around two to five years, (depending on the presence of predators).

Should you stomp down mole tunnels?

You may think that stomping on a tunnel will help the moles get the memo, but according to Tony King, it's not going to rid of them.

However, it will help you to determine which tunnel was recently used. "[If they] rebuild a tunnel within a couple of days after collapse, it tells you there is activity present in that location," he says.

While there isn't a quick fix for banishing moles from your garden, these preventative steps will help reduce and remove them over time.

For more pest control advice, read our guide on how to get rid of ants in the garden and how to get rid of chafer grubs in your garden.

Instead, my home office design comprises the breakfast bar, where I perch on a particularly uncomfortable stool and am regularly disturbed by children, pets, deliveries and the noise of the dishwasher. Not for long though. As part of our planned remodel and extension we will be constructing a garden office which, we hope, will double as a guest bedroom with shower room.

If, like me, a garden office is on your wish list, you'll be pleased to know I've been doing some research that should help. I reached out to the experts to find out which types of garden office there are, and the pros and cons to expect from each.

1. Flat packed timber systems

When people begin to look at how to build a garden room they tend to start with flat pack garden offices, often made from timber. These are a great budget option, starting from as little as £1,000.

They come in various designs. At the very basic end of the spectrum they are little more than garden sheds, waiting to be upgraded, while more expensive models are more like sturdy log cabins. Often, this type of garden office is available with a number of optional upgrades, such as double glazing, thicker wall and floor construction, insulation and so on.

"Timber is usually the cheapest way in, and for a lot of people it's fine," picks up Peter Barr, managing director at SIPCO. "The catch is that it only works as a year-round room if the insulation and moisture control are sorted from the start. If you skip that, you get something that's freezing by November and stifling by July, which is no good if you're using it every day."

"These timber buildings can often be purchased from garden centres or online suppliers and installed within a day or two," adds Gabrielle Allen, director of operations at InFrame Garden Rooms. "They are a good option for occasional use spaces where budget is the main consideration.

"The downside is that these buildings can struggle with temperature control," continues Gabrielle. "There is also very little flexibility in terms of design or layout. When it comes to selling a property, these structures are often viewed more as storage spaces or upgraded sheds, rather than true additional living space."

Pros:

• Budget-friendly
• Range of upgrades
• Readily available
• Quick to get up and running

Cons:

• Temperature regulation can be difficult
• DIY assembly required
• Shorter lifespan than other build systems

2. Modular garden offices

Next up are modular garden offices. Again, these come in all kinds of sizes and designs and are usually customisable, with the option of adding features such as electricity, lighting, heating and so on. They are most often constructed from timber or structural insulated panels (SIPs), but composite and fibre cement are also available.

Prices start from around £6,000 for basic double-glazed, fully insulated models with multi-point locking systems designed to be constructed on a DIY basis. However, if you want more than simple garden room ideas and are willing to stretch your budget, you can layer on extras such as lighting, superior insulation and so on, and many companies also offer free construction services within a set radius too.

"Modular is the quick option. Set sizes, set finishes, fewer decisions to make, installed fast," says Peter Barr. "You trade flexibility for that though, so if you've got an awkward plot, or you care about where the glazing and doors land, it can feel a bit 'off-the-peg'."

Pros:

• Customisable yet cheaper than bespoke
• Range of construction materials, from timber to composite
• Huge design choice available
• Insulation, flooring and double glazing included
• Secure
• Installation often included

Cons:

• Less design flexibility than fully bespoke
• Quality varies – do your research

3. Bespoke brick and block structures

This option is basically like building a little house in your garden and offers tonnes of flexibility in terms of design. While an architect or house designer is not necessarily a requirement, taking this route will ensure you are making the most of the space you have available.

While some people bravely decide to undertake this kind of build on a DIY basis, timescales are likely to be longer than for other types of garden room construction when opting for this route – hence why most people hire a builder to carry out the work.

It is extremely difficult to give costs for this type of structure given the fact that each will be different and, if you plan on adding in plumbing for bathrooms and kitchens, garden room heating and so on, costs will obviously rise. It is fair to say, however, that this is usually a more expensive route than either modular or flat-packed.

While garden room planning permission is not usually required for this type of structure, provided it falls within permitted development rights, building regulations will most certainly need to be adhered to.

Pros:

• Design and layout freedom
• Solid, well-insulated construction
• Add value to a house
• Various cladding options
• Useable year-round

Cons:

• Foundations required
• More expensive than modular or flat-pack
• Professional input usually needed
• Building regs approval necessary
• Longer build times

4. Timber frame buildings

A bespoke timber frame garden office is a beautiful way of creating a garden room or outbuilding.

Merry Albright, creative director at Border Oak, explains what this route involves. "Our garden offices are based upon the same construction principles as our oak framed outbuildings, but have upgraded and insulated panels so they form extra accommodation and work well as studios, home offices, art and craft rooms or a range of mixed uses. Often the buildings are weatherboarded as this is a good material for all sorts of settings and relatively cost effective. The trick is to work with a company with good quality cladding options.

"There are lots of design options and possibilities in terms of glazing variations, joinery and so on, and also oak frame options, including vaulted ceilings or porches, log stores and verandas," continues Merry. "The benefits are many – the buildings are beautiful and add real value to the host house, as well as complementing the garden. They last a long time and are lovely to work from (and impressive for visitors too) but they are also super sustainable and easy to build.

"Prices start at around £15,000 for a simple frame and panel encapsulation (for a local builder to complete, perhaps), and around £30,000 for a completed building," adds Merry. "For larger designs, which typically combine other uses such as a gym, garaging or extra bedrooms, we would suggest a budget of £50k upwards."

Pros:

• Beautiful additions to houses and gardens
• Add lots of value
• Multiple uses
• Characterful interiors
• Simple frames can be more affordable

Cons:

• At the higher end of the price scale
• Foundations needed
• Building regs approval required

5. SIPs structures

Structural insulated panels – or SIPs – are increasingly being used for garden offices, both modular and fully-bespoke. They are made of a double layer of oriented strand board (OSB3) with a solid insulation core, and offer fantastic thermal properties and speedy build times.

Beth Boulton, marketing director at Eurocell, explains how a modular SIPs garden office is constructed. "SIPs are rigid insulated panels that form the walls, roof and floor of the structure, maximising thermal efficiency. The exterior is typically finished in composite resin cladding, which lasts significantly longer than traditional timber alternatives – up to three times longer according to research. It also requires far less upkeep over that lifespan."

"What really decides whether a garden office works in winter is the build-up of the walls, floor and roof," explains Peter Barr. "With SIPs you're starting from a shell that's already strong and well-insulated, rather than bolting performance onto a frame afterwards."

There are basic SIPs flat pack kits available, designed for DIY installation, which start from around £5,000, or companies specialising in bespoke builds using this system.

Pros:

• Very thermally efficient
• Quick to construct
• Bespoke and flat-pack available

Cons:

• Very airtight so ventilation needs to be addressed to avoid condensation issues
• Can be trickier to assemble for DIYers than timber

6. Steel frame bespoke packages

Steel-framed garden rooms are an increasingly popular option – and for good reason.

Gabrielle Allen explains their benefits. "Because we work with steel frame construction, we have greater flexibility than traditional systems. No two offices we build are ever the same. Clients can customise everything to do with their home office ideas, from the overall size and glazing layout to door positioning, desk locations and even where individual plug sockets and printer points are placed. Every building is completely custom made.

"What surprises many clients is that full customisation does not necessarily mean significantly higher costs," continues Gabrielle. "Our steel-frame garden rooms typically start from around £20,000 depending on size and specification."

Pros:

• Fast installation
• Brilliant structural strength
• Design flexibility thanks to strength-to-weight ratio
• Great for modern offices

Cons:

• More expensive than flat-pack timber and modular offices
• Less thermally efficient than timber so good, breathable insulation required
• If fabricated off-site, access needs to be addressed

FAQs

Which type of garden office adds the most value to a house?

In the majority of cases, a house with a garden office will be really appealing to potential buyers, meaning it is a great way to add value to a home.

"The offices that add the most value are the ones that work as an actual room," explains Peter Barr. "Power, heating, decent glazing, a finish that doesn't look like a basic outbuilding. A buyer can picture using it for whatever they want, which is the whole point."

"The key is the quality of construction, not price tier per se," adds Beth Boulton. "A well-specified self-build kit with proper insulation, double glazing and a durable exterior finish will add more value than a cheaper installed garden room, with poor thermal performance and cladding that deteriorates within a decade. What valuers and prospective buyers look for is whether a garden room functions as a credible additional room, not what it costs.

"Some estimates suggest a properly installed, durable garden room could increase property price by 5–15%, with the uplift most pronounced in urban and commuter-belt areas where internal square footage comes at a premium," adds Beth.

Many people considering building a new room in their garden ask 'can you use a garden room as a bedroom?' While in many cases the answer will be yes, there are some important factors to take into consideration before ploughing ahead. It's the same if you're planning a garden room with a bathroom, so make sure, like me, you do your research before you sign on the dotted line.

Many people learn how to grow boxwood as part of their garden design, and for good reason. The evergreen shrub is perfect for low hedging that can distinguish different zones without impeding views through the space. It's perfect for topiary, too, because it's dense with small glossy leaves and can be clipped into a whole host of shapes. It'll thrive in sun or shade as well.

Box blight, however, spoils the timeless look of these shrubs by creating unsightly dead patches. But, there are ways to reduce the risk of this disease taking over. And if yours are already infected, there are things you can do to tackle the spread, too.

How to identify box blight

First things first – you'll need to know how to spot box blight if you have it in your garden. The earlier you catch it, the less damage it can do.

A 'dead patch' is the classic look of box blight, explains Graham Rice, gardening expert and published author. "Branches die back and bare patches appear, creating ugly, dead areas in your hedge or topiary. It attacks small topiary and dwarf hedges more than larger specimen plants or tall hedges.

"Box blight can spread quickly, especially in wet weather," he warns, "and the first sign is leaves turning brown and dropping off. Check the stems, too, as black streaks often appear on younger ones," says Graham.

How to prevent box blight

However you're using box in your garden, be it as plants for garden screening or to hone your topiary skills, then it's well worth knowing how to reduce the risk of box blight.

1. Trim your box shrubs at the right time, in the right way

Monty Don revealed some top tips on caring for box hedges and topiary on his website, which will help prevent blight.

Box needs clipping from time to time to keep it in shape. When you do so, check the weather forecast, says Monty – you'll need a few days of dry weather to do this task. The cut leaves and stems are more susceptible to the box blight fungus when the wounds are fresh, he explains. But, dry weather stops the spores of the fungus from being active, and leaves time for the wounds to scar over so they are less vulnerable to the disease. The start of summer is the time to give your box a trim, he adds.

Don't forget, however, if you are using box for hedges, you'll also need to check the best time to cut hedges, as there are rules and regulations in place to protect wildlife and birds in your garden.

It's also very important to ensure your garden shears or hedge trimmers are really sharp and clean. In fact, it's a good idea to clean your tools between pruning box in different areas of the garden – this helps avoid the risk of accidentally spreading any undetected blight. If you're using borrowed tools that have been used in another garden entirely, this step is imperative. And, once you've trimmed your box, remember to clean up the clippings thoroughly (laying a tarpaulin down first will make this easier).

As an extra safety measure, you may wish to apply a preventative fungicide before and after pruning, especially if you have had to deal with box blight in your garden before. You will usually need to apply it a good few days before you get trimming, and then wait a few days before applying again – check the product's instructions.

Shop these tools for keeping your box plants in good condition

2. Provide plenty of ventilation where possible

Box blight thrives in shady, humid conditions and spreads quickly. So, ensure there is good airflow around your plants – this will help them to dry out quickly after rain. If your box makes up part of your cottage garden ideas, this means keeping an eye on nearby perennials, to make sure they don't start crowding your shrubs.

When it comes to watering plants, a drip irrigation system is best rather than using an 'overhead' approach as this will prevent the leaves from getting wet.

The RHS recommends adding a soft mulch beneath your box as well. This will prevent rain from splashing up onto the leaves and potentially spreading box blight spores. Refresh the mulch occasionally, to keep it disease-free.

3. Quarantine new plants

Box blight can enter your garden via new plants. Because of this, the RHS advises isolating any commercially sourced plants for at least four weeks before planting them, so you can be sure they are disease-free.

As they explain, some nurseries may use fungicides that suppress, but do not kill, the fungus. Quarantining the plants will give you enough time for you to check whether box blight becomes apparent.

Don't forget, you can also take cuttings from box and grow new plants. If you take them from healthy, blight-free plants that are already in your garden, there will be much less risk than bringing in a new plant from elsewhere.

Box blight treatment in 3 simple steps

Already spotted blight? You need these tips on box blight treatment.

1. Cut out infected areas

Box blight needs removing as soon as it's spotted, regardless of the time of year, as long as conditions are dry.

You have a few options. If it's just an isolated area that's affected, you can simply cut this bit out, cleaning your tools well before and after. In more severe cases, you can cut back the shrubs by half, advises Graham Rice. In the worst cases, you can cut the plants right back to ground level, he says. "Box blight does not infect the roots and new shoots will appear."

Alternatively, if you don't want the hassle of trying to save your box, or your attempts at cutting out infected areas seem to be in vain, you can simply dig it up for disposal. Just remember that a new box shouldn't be planted in the same place for a good while, as according to the RHS, spores can remain viable in the surroundings for at least six years.

Whichever approach you go for, Graham adds that tools and footwear should be cleaned afterward, to prevent spreading spores around your garden.

2. Apply a fungicide

As well as cutting back your infected box plants, it's a good idea to apply a fungicide. This can be done both before and after.

Spraying cut-back plants with a product such as Provanto Fungus Fighter Plus from Amazon, which should help stop the spread of the disease.

Fertilising plants can really help them bounce back, and box is no exception. Use a sulfate of potash monthly from mid-spring until early autumn which you sprinkle over the root area and water in.

3. Keep an eye out for further infections

As this fungal disease can spread so quickly, it's important to keep an eye on your plants even after box blight treatment. Unfortunately, it often reoccurs in places it was before, so keep vigilant and be prepared to re-treat where necessary.

What are some good alternatives to box?

If you're looking for an alternative to box for your garden, you might be interested in the trial that RHS Garden Wisley carried out.

It resulted in some top recommendations, including the common yew 'Repandens', Pittosporum 'Collaig Silver', Lonicera nitida 'Maigrun' (which has the benefit of leaves that look very similar to those of box), and Berberis darwinii 'Compacta'.

Other shrubs that make good swaps include Euonymus fortunei, Ilex crenata, and Pittosporum 'Golf Ball'. Graham Rice advises that, "most succeed better as medium to tall hedges than clipped regularly to keep them dwarf."

Alternatively, if quick coverage is your goal, check out the best plants for fast-growing hedges.

Shop alternatives to box

Of course, planting a hedge isn't the only way to create a garden boundary. Take a look at how to decide if a hedge or fence is right for you, and if you do end up choosing a hedge, make sure you understand how high you can grow your hedge when you have neighbours.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

From barely-there wall-mounted designs to dramatic freestanding stone columns, outdoor showers have come a long way from the basic poolside rinse.

Whether you're installing an outdoor shower from scratch or looking for inspiration to elevate your existing design, these are the ideas worth bookmarking.

1. Use earthy, handmade tiles to root your shower in the garden

Forget anything too glossy or pristine. The outdoor tile ideas that work best are the ones that look like they've been beautifully weathering away for years, somewhere between the colour of a biscuit and a piece of driftwood, with just enough wobble in the glaze to prove an artisan made them.

"There is a big appetite for natural, earthy tones that sit happily with timber, planting and stone," explains Lesley Taylor, Founder of Baked Tiles. "People want the shower to feel part of the garden, not like a bathroom wall that has wandered outside by mistake."

Texture matters just as much as colour here. "Limestone, sandstone, travertine-style finishes, earthy tones and tiles with a slightly imperfect edge all work beautifully because they do not feel too polished or precious outside," says Grazzie Wilson, Head of Creative at Ca' Pietra.

It's a look built for longevity too: "The aim is to create something that feels inviting in high summer, but still has enough substance to sit beautifully in the garden once the towels and sunshine have been packed away," adds Grazzie.

2. Go ultra-modern with a sleek freestanding shower

Against a backdrop this moody, a fussy shower would only get in the way. Instead, a slim stainless-steel shower column looks less like plumbing and more like a modern garden sculpture.

The contrast is what makes this work so well. Rugged stone or dark brick behind it makes the polished metal practically glow, while the integrated shower tray means no separate paving slab or drainage is required because it's all baked into the design from the start.

3. Install a shower in a private outdoor nook

Sometimes the best spot for an outdoor shower isn't one you build, it's one you already have. An old outbuilding recess or the gap between two walls can make a naturally sheltered little shower room, and tiling it floor to ceiling in a rich, glossy colour turns a leftover bit of garden into a secret spa. Here, deep emerald zellige tiles against pale Cotswold stone do exactly that, with brass pipework running down the wall.

A few low-effort additions finish the look, such as a reclaimed timber hook for towels, a wobbly little stool for soap and shampoo, and roses left to scramble up the stonework outside. The result feels properly tucked away, both visually and literally, the kind of corner you'd happily disappear into for 20 minutes with nobody any the wiser.

4. Go wall-to-wall with tiles for a spa-like enclosure

There's a particular kind of magic in stepping into a fully tiled, open-roofed space and finding nothing but sky above you. Three walls and a roofless ceiling is all it takes to turn this outdoor shower into a private boutique moment, and warm, square zellige-style tiles are the perfect material for the job.

"For a spa-like feel, I would lean into softly tonal porcelain, warm neutrals, gentle stone effects or tiles with a subtle surface variation that catch the light without shouting for attention," says Grazzie Wilson. "It should feel calm, cocooning and a little bit indulgent – almost like a tucked-away retreat at the bottom of the garden."

If you want to recreate that spa-like bathroom feeling outdoors, this is how. It takes more planning than a simple wall-mounted shower, but the payoff is somewhere that feels yours, whatever the season.

5. Consider excess runoff when designing your shower

It's easy to obsess over the shower itself and forget about the ground beneath it, but that little patch of floor is doing a lot of work. Here, a simple timber duckboard set into the paving lets water drain straight through underfoot, keeping the surrounding concrete and gravel dry rather than turning into a permanent puddle.

But what happens underneath matters too. "In some cases, simple drainage into gravel, soakaways, or permeable ground may be acceptable for occasional use, particularly with cold water only," explains Tony Wells, plumbing expert at Bathroom Spare Parts. But if soap and shampoo are part of the routine, his advice is to think bigger: "It's advisable to connect drainage into the foul water system rather than allowing wastewater to flow directly into the garden."

It's a detail that costs little to plan for at the outset and saves a lot of regret later. As Tony puts it, treating an outdoor shower "like a proper plumbing project rather than just a garden accessory" is what makes the difference between a feature that lasts and one that causes problems for years.

6. Give some thought to your floor tiles

Here's a fact nobody tells you when you're installing an outdoor shower: the floor matters much more than the walls. Everyone obsesses over the tile at eye level, but it's the one underfoot, slick with water and bare feet, that decides whether your swimming pool shower is a triumph or a hazard.

"When it comes to tiles for an outdoor shower, the first thing to think about is what is happening underfoot, because bare feet, water and the great British weather need a tile that can cope with the lot," says Grazzie Wilson from Ca' Pietra. "Look for something with proper grip, ideally an outdoor tile with an R11 slip rating, and make sure the material is suitable for exterior use, such as frost-resistant porcelain or a suitably finished natural stone."

Thankfully, grippy doesn't have to mean grim. Textured, stone-effect porcelain and honed natural stone both look the part, and many ranges now pair a slip-rated floor tile with a smoother wall version in the same colourway.

7. Embrace natural stone finishes for added 'wow' factor

If you want your shower to look like it belongs in a boutique hotel rather than a garden centre, the secret is usually in the slab.

A great slice of marble-effect stone, all swirling greys and golds, does more for an outdoor shower than any amount of fancy hardware ever could. Pair it with matt black fittings and the whole thing reads as expensive, even if the rest of the garden is still a work in progress.

8. Make a shower statement with deep, saturated coloured tiles

Some outdoor showers try to disappear into the garden. This one does the opposite, and it works brilliantly. A single wall in a deep, confident colour – think ink blue, bottle green or sun-baked terracotta – holds its own against even the wildest planting, especially when ferns and foliage are left to spill in around the edges.

"Homeowners are definitely getting braver with outdoor showers," says Lesley Taylor from Baked Tiles. "We are seeing a move away from the purely practical rinse-off zone and towards spaces that feel like a proper design moment, whether that is a tiled backdrop in a rich green, a sun-baked terracotta shade, or a handmade-look tile that feels relaxed rather than perfect."

9. Lean into a bold decorative pattern

When choosing tiles for your shower, be sure to give some thought to how they're laid. A basket-weave or geometric tile pattern, mixing two or three tones such as deep navy, olive and ochre, is a brilliant way to turn a simple tiled wall into something closer to artwork.

The trick is scale. A pattern like this could easily overwhelm an entire facade, but confined to one narrow shower wall it feels like a deliberate flourish rather than a lot to look at. It's a brilliant way to make a small shower feel like the most thought-through corner of the garden.

One tip before you commit: get your tiler to lay out a sample panel first. Pattern repeats shift depending on tile size and grout width, and the difference between "intentional" and "slightly wonky" often comes down to a few millimetres.