Our front gardens are often seen as functional – a place for the car, the wheelie bins, and the pathway between your door and the big wide world. But when done correctly, they can become a stunning scene that really sets the tone for your home. And, even when space is limited, there are still plenty of opportunities to make an impact.

From mini wildlife havens to modern entrances, these ideas show you how to allow the front of your plot to shine, no matter its size.

1. Create a wildlife haven in a small front garden

Small front gardens don't have to be all sleek and pared-back if that isn't your style. If you love a more natural look and lean towards eco-friendly garden ideas, then take inspiration from this flower-filled haven above.

This design by Fenton Roberts Garden Design makes the most of every inch of space with tons of beautiful planting. The striking stems of verbena topped with vivid purple tones makes for an impressive display alongside echinops and grasses, and pollinators will love them too. What's more, there's even a small pond, tucked amongst the plants in the middle of the zone.

Then there's the bespoke wheelie bin storage, painted cream to complement the exterior of the home and the light-hued paving. "The green roof on the bin also enables you to introduce plants into even the smallest front garden," says garden designer Jo Fenton, from Fenton Roberts Garden Design. A mix of alpines is a lovely, low-maintenance choice.

2. Opt for chic details around your front door

Your front path, no matter how small, will inevitably see a lot of traffic. So, it's worth opting for a design that's not only sturdy, but will also make a statement.

This sleek patterned tiling style is a stunning example. See how the tones have been chosen to tie together the whole scene. The dark greys offset the containers, the creamy tones complement the gravel, and the softer greys make a pleasing accent to the bright blue door.

The gold bee door decor makes a characterful finishing touch and along with the potted trees either side, really draws the eye. The overall result is incredibly welcoming, but smart, too.

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3. Get creative with paving in a small space

Playing with bold shapes is a great way to add a contemporary edge to your small front garden. This circular design makes an impressive impact, whilst allowing plenty of room for shade-tolerant plants which are suitable for the conditions of the site. Once established, the scene will be full of lush greenery and flowers, including the likes of Liriope muscari. A central topiary tree takes centre stage as a focal point.

Choosing your hard landscaping materials to complement the exterior of your home is crucial for a cohesive look – these dark grey and neutral cream tones work well in this scene. As an alternative to having plants and soil on display, check out these gravel garden ideas for a different approach.

4. Plant front borders full of flowers

Even small front gardens can be transformed into billowing garden borders full of life, colour, and movement. This space above, designed by Outerspace Creative Landscaping, is a case in point.

Try a cottage garden approach with gaura, alchemilla mollis, and Erysimum 'Bowles' Mauve' all good contenders for your planting scheme. Border with small, neatly clipped evergreen shrubs to balance the sumptuous look. A small bird bath makes a lovely touch and will welcome feathered friends into your plot.

If this style is for you, don't forget to factor in a cottage garden path idea too.

5. Make a sculptural statement

Sculptures and statues are a great way to draw the eye and provide visual interest throughout the year. Positioning one in the front of your plot will make a striking first impression to help boost your kerb appeal.

We love this weathering steel design which takes pride of place amongst a circular flowerbed and pathway. Pops of opulent, inky colour from the tulips enhance the elegant scene even further, whilst plenty of evergreens means there will be plenty to admire even when winter comes around.

Providing a small bench at the far side creates a destination point, encouraging the whole space to be used.

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6. Define the entrance with small potted trees

Give your front door the definition it deserves by framing it with a duo of small potted trees. Silvery-leaved olives will bring a touch of the Mediterranean to your space, always look sophisticated, and are very low-maintenance trees too.

Opt for statement planters to match your individual style. These woven wicker designs add a rustic warmth to the scene, but you could go for galvanised metal planters for a more contemporary look. Take a look at our garden planter ideas for more suggestions, or for a wicker planter try this Large Square Rattan Planter on Wheels from Crocus.

7. Fill a walled space with pretty hydrangeas

Front garden wall ideas are a good way to make your front garden feel more secure and defined, and this one looks fabulous as it mirrors the red brickwork of the house. Topped with grey-blue bullnose bricks, it also ties together with the path's edging and sleek tiles.

In terms of planting, shade-tolerant hydrangeas are a brilliant choice for north-facing front gardens, such as this plot. Prolific in blooms, they make a bold statement but are easy to care for. Mix with hardy geraniums for their jewel-like hues.

8. Watch the world go by from an outdoor seat

Adding a garden bench or even a small bistro set can make a great addition to even the smallest of front gardens. It will provide a spot to sit and watch the world go by, and when decked out with pretty cushions, makes a stylish feature too.

This wooden, curved design is the perfect accompaniment to a pretty cottage scene, but there are plenty of contemporary styles available if you're after a more modern look.

And if you're looking to add more greenery into your front garden, don't forget about the power of climbing plants. The likes of clematis, honeysuckle, or even wisteria will always look gorgeous clambering over the exterior of your walls. But take heed if your climbing plants start to encroach on your neighbour's walls – it could cause them problems you won't want to be responsible for.

9. Add structure to a small space with large containers

Even if your front garden is small and fully paved, you can still add planting and colour with structural containers for a low-maintenance garden idea.

Positioned around the borders, they really lift the space, plus there's enough room to keep on top of maintenance easily. Although the planters look like wood at first glance, they're actually made from aluminium, which means they will withstand the outdoor elements.

An olive tree, taxus balls and lavender will provide foliage and structure to the scene all year. The likes of heather and cyclamen offer vivid colour throughout autumn and winter, which can be swapped out with summer bedding as the seasons change.

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10. Try a touch of symmetry for a very small front garden

Tiny spaces can be tricky be personalise, but there are still some worthwhile very small front garden ideas to try. Take this stretch of paving, for example. It has been given a pleasingly symmetrical look with the use of a double set of front door steps, a smart black railing, matching wall lanterns, and a slimline planter filled with foliage.

The result is orderly and visually pleasing, and the wisteria overhead only adds to the charm. Once in flower, its purple blooms will turn this smart scene into one of true wonder.

11. Add architectural forms with topiary

Topiary is a timeless choice for both front and back gardens, and although it's popular in traditional plots, it can be very contemporary, too.

In this scene, a range of evergreen shrubs have been clipped into balls of varying heights, adding a playful look and drawing the eye around the space. Surrounded by pale cream and dark grey features, it's a bold look that will last all through the year.

12. Line your pathway with lighting

Every outdoor space can benefit from good garden lighting ideas to boost ambience and practicality. In front gardens it's especially important to help you find your keys or greet guests when night falls.

The best outdoor solar lights, such as stakes in eye-catching styles, look fabulous when nestled in borders lining a pathway, and are low-maintenance too.

For very small front gardens that don't have a path, try weaving outdoor-friendly fairy lights around one of the best trees for pots by your front door instead.

13. Try a window box or two

Window box ideas are a great choice for pepping up a scene when there isn't much space. Even if you don't have deep windowsills to prop them on, you can still recreate the look with the help of supporting brackets fixed directly to the wall.

This duo is full of showstopping colour, and will bring cheer to any passers-by. Plenty of trailing greenery adds to the refreshing vibe, whilst sleek black external window shutters above give a modern edge.

FAQs

What can I plant in a small front garden?

"If you’re aiming for a minimalist aesthetic then it's about avoiding clutter, keeping things clean and crisp and using just a few key plant species," says Nigel Gomme, landscape designer at Cityscapers. Plant these densely to balance the hard landscaping elements, he recommends.

"But, you only need look to cottage planting to see how much variety and colour can be crammed into a small space. So it depends on your taste rather than hard and fast rules,"Nigel adds.

"If space is very limited at ground level, I use the vertical axis,'" Nigel continues. "Plant upwards. Climbers trained up different types of fences and walls provide wonderful vertical planes of greenery and many are scented and prolific bloomers. If the aspect is sunny there are few climbers more exquisite than Wisteria sinensis or more heavenly-scented than climbing roses."

"Evergreen jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is another great scent to add to the garden and is not bothered where you plant it. It flourishes in sun or shade," says Nigel. "Just don't let it dry out and it will reward you with perfumed white flowers all summer and shiny dark green leaves year round. I use climbers a lot to soften and balance hard surfaces and inject colour and scent into small gardens."

The team at Outerspace Creative Landscaping offers more words of wisdom: "Front gardens tend to be smaller than back gardens, so choosing appropriately sized trees, shrubs and planting is really important, not only to how the garden looks but also to how much future maintenance will be required.

'Trees can also cause costly structural problems if the wrong specimen is planted too close to houses and boundaries, so select smaller varieties of trees that won't need regular trimming to keep them under control," advise the team. "Front gardens also tend to be less private, so creating a low- or easy-maintenance space is often a priority."

What materials are best for a small front garden?

"Materials are a key consideration within a front garden," say the experts at Outerspace Creative Landscaping. "The period, style and building materials of the property definitely have a bigger influence on a front garden than for other outdoor areas that may enjoy more privacy."

Your choice of materials needs to complement the exterior of your home, the team explains, which will improve your plot's kerb appeal. Grass is often best-avoided due to the impracticalities of bringing your lawn mower through the house. However, it's important to not focus on function alone – small front gardens, even very small front gardens, still need to feel inviting. This is where the planting comes in, to soften paved pathways and stone walls," continue the experts.

"Unlike back gardens, we pass through our front gardens every time we leave or return to our homes. So, they should be feel welcoming and have the potential to provide as much pleasure and interest as a back garden," they conclude.

As your front garden inevitably leads to your front door, make sure you also pick the best front door colour to complete your scheme. And, if you're considering using hedging to define your boundaries rather than a front garden fence or wall, check out our guide to the best hedging plants.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Forming a clear, overall plan for your garden design is well worth the time and effort, but often tight budgets and other commitments mean putting them into action, all at once, is not always possible. But don’t despair, by just concentrating on one smaller area – maybe next to the house, or a single aspect of your garden, you can gradually transform your space and enjoy the changes.

We’ve spoken to leading industry experts and experienced landscape designers to get their advice and top tips. Although no two projects are the same, great ideas are always transferable and these are just the ticket to transform your large garden into somewhere truly special.

1. Link areas within a large garden with a raised pool

Water features are the perfect way to bring light and a sense of space into any garden, and nothing can be more dramatic in a large, open plot. Rills and raised water features contrast sharply with smooth paving and dense areas of planting, as well as providing mesmerising reflections too.

Sit back and watch scudding clouds overhead and lose yourself in the ripples created by the slightest breeze on the water’s surface. In this design, a large raised rectangular pool is framed by two rows of pleached hornbeams and links the greenhouse and raised vegetable gardens with the central lawn. The fretwork sphere and tiered water feature are carefully lit from below to create stunning night-time features.

2. Go for a versatile garden shelter in a large space

Whether you need undercover space for entertaining, working out or just lounging, a sturdy and versatile outdoor shelter is a fantastic investment for your large garden. Not only will it change how you use your garden, but it makes a dramatic focal point too.

Patio screening ideas vary hugely from simple timber pergolas with canvas linings, to substantial, automated shelters. More expensive designs come with features such as rotating louvre slatted panels and retractable screens that form versatile covers and can be configured according to the weather conditions and the occasion.

You could even consider adding integrated garden lighting into the beams or roof blades – choose from cool or warm white or colour-changing LEDs, plus sound and heating.

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3. Try some prairie-style planting

Accentuate a large open site with some prairie-style planting for your garden borders. Think of vast swathes of ornamental grasses and colourful perennials swaying in the breeze, providing an ever-changing display throughout the year.

The secret to making this way of planting work is to keep to a small palette of plants and repeat them at regular intervals. Plant them in drifts and ribbons, weaving them together to create a dense tapestry.

One place that offers plenty of inspiration is the Sussex Prairie Garden in England. "We believe in an exuberance of spirit and this manifests itself in a mass planting of each variety of plant coupled with a mix of ornamental grasses to lift the levels and add sound, texture and spectacle," explains creator Pauline McBride.

4. Establish a large wildlife pond

Do your bit with eco-friendly garden ideas and create a new go-to spot, by building a garden pond. A magnet for birds, insects and mammals too, it’s amazing how quickly it will transform a featureless plot.

Designer Claudia de Yong has worked on a few ponds in her time and shares the following tips. "The minute you introduce a water feature into a garden, whatever size, whatever style, you are immediately creating other dimensions. Water gently flowing over rocks and stone creates a soft, calming sound. Reflections of tree, plants and even buildings will add depth to your garden."

Make the most of the space of your site, by going for biggest pond you can – they always look smaller once they are full and pond planting has established. Native wildflowers and grasses will soften the edges and provide cover for wildlife, while a simple timber jetty is the perfect place to sit and gaze from.

5. Add drama with an eye-popping sculpture

If you have a sizeable plot, think big. A few well-chosen large features will have more impact than cluttering the space with many, smaller features. Consider how and where to site sculptural pieces carefully. Do you want to position them as a dramatic centrepiece at the far end of a long, border-lined lawn or paved terrace, or would you prefer to go for an element of surprise, and tuck them around a hidden corner or separate garden ‘room’ with high hedging?

The style of artwork and choice of materials is a matter of personal taste. Contemporary pieces work beautifully in front of loose and airy, densely planted borders, while more intricate, traditional designs are set off perfectly by a dark, simple backdrop – think a clipped yew hedge or ivy-covered garden wall ideas.

"We’ve recently seen an increased demand for pieces that juxtapose dissimilar metals," says the team at David Harber. "For example, organic patinated bronze alongside the crisp, highly reflective mirrored finish of stainless steel or the warm, natural glow of gold."

6. Devote space to an outdoor kitchen

The pressure to use every inch of our homes has accelerated the garden trend for setting up an outdoor kitchen. If you have the space, why not make cooking in the open air a sociable occasion by setting up an adjacent lounge area.

"Our desire for a great outdoor space has evolved way beyond a portable barbecue and fold-away garden furniture and instead these are now required to be fully functional living spaces," says Simon Burvill, founder of Gaze Burvill. "With areas to relax, cook, entertain and dine, we can create distinct rooms to give a natural indoor-outdoor flow."

Just as with an inside kitchen, ample storage and prep space in your outdoor kitchen ideas is a must. Go for a mix of drawers and cabinets, adding built-in fridges, wine coolers and ice-drawers where space and budget allows.

An outdoor sink, either plumbed into mains water or feeding off a concealed storage tank, will make every occasion easier and save endless return trips to the house. Upstands with shelving and hanging racks will ensure spices and cooking tools are easy to reach, and also provides a handy spot for growing herbs and edible flowers too.

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7. Create a natural swimming pond

Love wild swimming or just fancy a spot to dip your toes in the water, then why not go for a natural swimming pond in your large garden? Sympathetically designed to fit into the landscape, these pools can be planted up to form an enchanting garden feature as well as an idyllic place to bathe.

Stepping stones, timber jetties and pontoons can all be added into the design, as well as gentle sloping beaches, streams and plunge pools. Dependent on micro-organisms to clean the water, rather than chemicals, these pools will need to be planted up with a careful mix of aquatic plants to maintain the PH balance and prevent algae growth.

Specialists will design, construct and maintain your project, taking into account filtration and drainage issues, any planning issues and planting options. While wildlife, birds and insects will love to visit the pool, it’s best to discourage ducks and geese from taking up residence as they will affect the nutrient balance of the water.

8. Use trees and paving to break up a large garden

Fancy a simple but oh-so effective design? Then mix easy-care trees, grass and snaking garden paths. Perfect for creating a tranquil spot for quiet contemplation, or a fun spot for children to play, it’s a great way to make the most of a large garden.

In this project, winter flowering cherry trees, are dotted across a gently undulating grassy area. Curving turf paths, edged with simple pavers create sweeping clean lines that add movement and balance the slender trees.

"This is part of a very large garden and was originally just a flat bank situated quite a distance from the main house," explains designer Jo Alderson. "My client loves trees so we thought it would be fun to create a swirly maze for her grandchildren to discover and run around – together with visiting dogs! Throughout spring there are lots of bulbs popping up through the longer grass."

For your own version of this look, plant these Cherry Blossom Trees from Crocus, and use these Grey Riven Granite Setts from B&Q to create meandering pathways.

9. Introduce curves for added interest

Add character to a large garden by introducing a sweeping path and curvy retaining wall. The perfect design trick for dividing up sloping garden ideas into a series of more manageable terraces, it will also add a sense of horizontal movement and help to unify a large open space.

In this beautiful design, a snaking dry-stone wall and block paved path intertwine to create a cosy spot that's perfect for secluded outdoor seating. Surrounded by loose, textural planting it forms the main focal point of the garden. The beautiful, stacked stone wall also presents the ideal opportunity for a dramatic falling water feature.

10. Create a secret hideaway at the end of a big garden

Make the most of your space by including a secluded garden retreat in your large garden. A shepherd's hut nestled behind a hedge or at the far end of the garden, amongst trees, can make the perfect spot for reading, an extra bedroom or for your garden office.

Traditional in shape and neat in size, these raised huts ooze rural style and charm. Fit them out with a woodburning stove, simple kitchen units and kettle, and they can be comfortably used all year round. Go for a design that's well insulated and can be mains powered and you'll be comfortable outdoors, whatever the weather. Set it up with its own seating area, a log store and an outdoor fireplace idea and you’ll have a home-from-home right on the doorstep.

Love the idea but need a more budget-friendly option? Don't discount your existing garden buildings, as with some TLC, even your humble garden shed can become a garden office or tranquil space.

11. Cultivate a wild woodland area

Paths don’t have to be paved, or even hard underfoot, and often the most enchanting are those that appear to be completely spontaneous. What could be more intriguing than a mown path through a wildflower meadow? Quick and easy to do, you can make the route as twisty or direct as you like. Be kind to your lawn mower by creating your path while the grass is low and repeating fortnightly. Alternatively, you may want to strim long grass first, before mowing neatly. Just check the route is free of wildlife before you start.

"This meadow area provided a lovely transition between manicured garden and arboretum," says designer Rebecca Smith of her own garden. "We cut the wildflower area once a year, in late summer when the weather is dry, using a strimmer. The cut plants are then left in place for up to a week, if the weather is dry, to allow the ripened seed to drop out onto the ground, before raking up all the cut stalks and composting them."

12. Take a formal approach to the design of your large garden

Large gardens often call for a bold design, and it’s hard to beat a more formal approach for instant calm and elegance. Clean lines and symmetry always make a powerful statement, so look for opportunities to incorporate these into an overall plan.

Paved terraces, low retaining walls and sets of wide and shallow garden steps ideas are all great ways to divide up a large space and add interest while retaining a sense of calm and tranquillity.

Pale blooms, lush green foliage and smooth, light grey block paving also add to the timeless feel.

13. Add some wow to an extensive lawn

An immaculate, rolling green lawn might be your pride and joy or even future dream feature for your large garden, but how about using your lawn as a canvas for some ‘mow-art’.

For years gardeners have been taking a pride in creating perfect grassy stripes or even checks, and if you're wondering how, the secret to success is in a flat, well maintained lawn and a mower with front and back rollers and a sharp blade.

"The perfect height for perfect stripes is 20-30mm," says Austin Jarrett, MD at Allett. "The stripes are created by the reflection of the sun on the bent-over blades of grass. When mowing, make sure that the current stripe slightly overlaps the previous stripe, so that you do not have thin strips of uncut grass left between the stripes."

14. Plant a statement tree for height and drama

Need to bring height and drama to a spacious garden? Then choose yourself a statement tree. Perfect for adding shape and structure, it will instantly help to divide up the space into different areas and create a more intimate and welcoming feel too.

Take time to research the best specimen for your patch and think carefully about your garden’s aspect and soil type too. Consider whether you prefer a deciduous or evergreen specimen and think about the shape and size of tree that will best suit your garden. If you have a small space but still want to add impact with a tree, make sure you check out our suggestions for the best trees for small gardens.

Look for varieties with standout qualities that particularly appeal to you – these could be dramatically coloured or textured bark that is reflected in planting elsewhere in the garden, stunning spring blossom or spectacular, vibrant autumn foliage.

Maybe it’s the plant’s shape that will add interest – a multi-stemmed plant will fill out an empty space right away, lend a wild touch too, while a stately pine or walnut will add a touch of class.

We spoke to the team at tree specialists Barcham for their top recommendations.

• Liquidambar styraciflua 'Worplesdon' A ‘maple-like’ tree with spectacular and long-lasting autumn colour. The inner canopy turns buttercup yellow while the outer leaves change to a claret red.
• Sorbus aria Lutescens The early spring foliage of this whitebeam emerge as a striking grey/silver/blue and the canopy has a graceful, rounded shape. Red orange berries shine out in autumn.  
• Betula albosinensis Fascination The gorgeous cinnamon-coloured peeling bark turns cream as it matures and has a glossy sheen too. The flame-shaped crown has a clean, architectural shape making it ideal for urban, modern garden ideas.
• Paper Mulberry A lover of chalky soil, this tree is a magnet for pollinators in late summer thanks to its curious orange globe-like flowers. Perfect for creating shade, it has an architectural stem structure in winter.

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FAQs

How do you make a large garden feel more cosy?

Creating a series of garden zones is a great way to add interest and makes tackling large gardens seem less intimidating. Stone walls, hedges, and fretwork screens all work well as stylish garden dividers.

Dense areas of tall planting work well and will help you to focus your design and available budget into manageable phases. Try ornamental grasses such as Calamagrostis 'Karl Foerster', Molinia Breeze and Miscanthus sinensis 'Flamingo'.

Think about the different ways you want to use the garden too. An adventure play area, room for growing fruit and vegetables, a sunken lounge area with fire pit for entertaining or a sheltered spot for chilling out with a book or podcast can all be accommodated, and can have a dedicated spot too.

The secret to a successful large garden though is to have a masterplan to ensure the space fits together as a whole. Final details don’t have to be set from the outset and, of course, plans can and will evolve, but this approach really helps to unify the overall design.

How can I make a large garden more interesting?

"In a large garden, the spatial arrangements should be set out to enrich the experience of interconnecting gardens with smooth transitions between areas," says landscape designer Adrienne Hendy-Curzon. "A multi-seasonal design approach will allow the merits of each season to be championed too.

"A large garden also provides an opportunity to design for future proofing with fundamental improvements of rain harvesting and water storage for the long term, and scope for rich biodiversity and sustainability within the site."

Of course, with larger spaces comes the need for extra thought into how you will ensure your plants and trees thrive. For more ideas on managing gardens in an increasingly warmer climate, make sure you incorporate some water-saving garden design ideas in your plans. And, to avoid having to spend hours with a watering can, see how drip irrigation could help you save time.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

October planting also lends itself to perennials and ornamental grasses that will get established and go dormant for winter before coming back to life next spring. Biennials such as sweet williams and foxgloves can also be planted now for next year.

So get out in the garden, get planning and start planting! Put in the work in October and you will reap the reward in the months ahead as your flowerbeds spring into life when the warmer weather returns.

1. Roses

We are on the cusp of bare root season when trees and shrubs can be bought small, cheap and dormant, ready to grow when the weather warms up again next spring.

Apart from their delicious blooms and scent, roses are pretty versatile and you can find one to suit every garden, be it a climbing roses, a rambler, shrub rose or dwarf variety suitable for growing roses in pots.

They do best in a sunny spot and are unlikely to flower as well in shade, and their soil should be free-draining and enriched with lots of well-rotted compost or manure as they are hungry plants.

Top tip: To get lots of eye-level flowers on rambling and climbing roses, make sure the blooming stems are tied horizontally to their supports once the plants are a couple of years old and are starting to flower well.

2. Crab apple

While crab apple trees are infinitely beneficial when growing other apples as they are general pollinators, they are also well worth adding to an ornamental garden.

They are relatively compact so make a great tree for small gardens, and often grow in a graceful shape. They also give something to the garden through every season of the year.

In spring they are dressed in sweet smelling pink-and-white blossom, then little apples that are either red or yellow appear in late summer and the leaves often turn glorious shades of red and auburn in autumn. Then once they drop, you are left with an attractive skeleton of branches!

Best of all, crab apples are low-maintenance trees and happy in a range of soils. They will do best if it is free-draining and in a sunny spot, though they can cope with partial shade.

Top tip: Crab apples are good for birds and wildlife and their small fruits make extremely tasty jelly.

3. Sweet Williams

If you have gaps in your garden borders or pots that need filling with plants that will guarantee a colourful show late next spring through the early summer, look no further than sweet williams.

A traditional cottage garden plant famed for its pink and white blooms that cluster above slim-pointed leaves they are incredibly easy to grow and will also self-seed, giving you colour for years to come. Low growing and with a sweet peppery scent, they also work well as a cutting flower as they have a long vase life.

Plant sweet williams in sunny, well-drained soil, though they will tolerate light shade and also grow well in containers. Plant them now when the soil is still warm from summer, and their roots will start to grow and establish in the ground.

They will sit through autumn and winter, though they may need mulching with well-rotted compost or manure if we have hard frosts, and will start to grow again early next spring before flowering later in the season and into early summer.

Top tip: Sweet williams are perfect for attracting pollinators including bees and butterflies so are an ideal addition to a wildlife garden area.

4. Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian Sage)

If you are looking for an elegant shrubby plant that will add grace and colour to your border in late summer and autumn and be a magnet for beneficial insects next summer, look no further than Perovskia atriplicifolia or Russian sage (available from Gardening Express).

Growing to a final height of 1.2m, the plant is made up of several frondy branches holding small, sage-scented leaves and, through late summer and autumn, a wealth of delicate mauve flowers.

A tough character, it thrives in any sunny, well-drained spot but also deserves a place in modern planting schemes and gravel gardens. Grow it alongside grasses and other architectural perennials such as globe thistles, echinacea and eryngiums.

Top tip: To keep your Perovskia atriplicifolia shapely and flowering well each year, prune it back hard in mid to late spring to create an attractive woody framework.

5. Clematis

If a bare wall is crying out for colour, clematis are an easy and eye-catching way of providing exactly that. It's best to plant clematis now when the soil is warm and damp. They will really thrive in a spot where they get a good amount of sun on their top growth, but the soil gets more shade.

Clematis should be planted deep, so make sure the crown of the plant, where it emerges from its pot of compost, is at least 7-10cm below ground level. This encourages them to put on more subterranean growth which leads to stronger plants and a faster coverage of whatever they are growing against.

All clematis varieties thrive in free-draining soil and also need plenty of watering while they get established. They also like their roots kept cool, so covering the planting area with a flag stone or a couple of bricks will help.

Once they are planted, reduce any top growth to 15cm, which will promote the development of more shoots when they start to grow again in spring.

Top tip: Although clematis like sun on their top growth, too many harsh rays can cause their blooms to bleach.

6. Spring bulbs

If spring bulbs were on your list of what to plant in September and your beds and borders are already jam-crammed full of them but you still hanker for more, why not consider planting bulbs in a lawn instead?

Planting bulbs in this way is called ‘naturalising’ and it's a simple way of planting that packs a beautiful punch. It is usually used for smaller and dwarf varieties such as crocuses, mini daffodils and tulips, drifts of snowdrops and snakehead fritillaries, but the taller blue spires of Camassia also look stunning poking through the grass, especially among fruit trees.

Planting bulbs in your lawn is neither complicated nor messy. They need to go in the ground at three times their own depth, as you would in a bed or pot, and this is easily done with a sharp bulb planter, such as this Spear & Jackson bulb planter from Amazon. You are aiming to create as natural a look as possible, so start by gently throwing a handful of bulbs – one variety or a mix – onto the grass and planting them where they fall.

Remove a plug of earth and grass and pop each bulb in its own hole, pointed end up. Then infill with soil, replace the cap of grass and firm in. Water well, even when rain is forecast. The bulbs will mature and multiply over the years to create a large and colourful spread.

Top tip: Squirrels, badgers and foxes love a freshly planted bulb, so pin wire mesh over the planting site to keep them safe.

7. Biennials (including wallflowers and foxgloves)

Biennials are plants that germinate and develop leaves one year, then flower, set seed and die back the next. Add them to your October planting list and their seedlings will have time to get established and put on some root growth before the cold weather hits.

Biennials include sweet rocket, honesty and forget-me-nots. They are easy-going plants and most can be potted up and overwintered undercover then planted out when the soil starts to warm next spring.

While the soil still retains some summer warmth, you should also plant out any hardy biennials you sowed and grew earlier in the year.

Bare root wallflower plants – another biennial – are usually widely and cheaply available now in garden centres, so buy a bunch for early spring colour and scent.

Top tip: Honesty plants develop deep tap-roots and do not transplant well so for the best results, sow them directly where you wish them to grow.

8. Hellebores

Hellebores, widely known as Lenten or Christmas roses, are one of the first perennials to flower in early spring, and also one of the most beautiful. Most varieties thrive in light shade that gets some full sun at some point during the day, and they like enriched, free-draining soil.

If you have heavy clay soil, make sure you dig in lots of well-rotted manure or compost and a little grit before planting. If you have areas of deeper shade that need lightening, plant all-green Hellebore foetidus, or stinking hellebore, as they are happy in darker conditions and offer a valuable supply of early nectar for pollinators.

Hellebores are also one of the best plants for winter pots, so they're a great option if you want to add a splash of colour to garden planters during the colder months. Hellebore 'Double Ellen Pink' from Thompson & Morgan is ideal for shady borders and containers and will add an instant splash of colour to your planting schemes over the colder months.

Top tip: In autumn, remove old and tatty hellebore leaves to make room for new foliage growth and the buds when they start to emerge.

9. Perennials

Hellebores are not the only perennials to add to your October planting list. The coldest months are not yet upon us, so any perennial included in your garden border planting now will still have time to stretch out its roots and settle in before it goes into winter hibernation.

For this reason, October is the perfect time to look around your garden, see what gaps you have in your flower beds and decide what to fill them with.

When planting a perennial, such as agapanthus, first of all stand its pot in water so the roots get a good drink and it's easier to slide out the rootball without slender feeder roots snagging on the sides of the container.

While it is soaking, excavate the planting hole to the same depth as the plant’s pot and slightly wider. If soil is heavy or clay, score the sides of the hole with your fork to improve its drainage and prevent it becoming a waterlogged ‘bucket’.

Add some well-rotted compost or manure to the bottom of the hole and sprinkle in some bone meal, which will break down through winter and nourish the roots next spring.

Perennials should be planted at the same depth as the pot you bought them in, so check your excavation is deep enough by standing the plant in it while it's still in its pot. Then take the plant from its pot and carefully tease out any roots that are circling the others or tangled, and place the plant in its hole.

Infill around the rootball with soil and compost, firming it down as you go, then water well and mulch the root area with a generous layer of well-rotted compost or manure. If you want to make your own compost, we've got plenty of tips on composting in our guide, too.

Top tip: When choosing a plant, always read its label before purchasing to make sure you have the right conditions and space for its optimum growth. It will fail to thrive if it is in the wrong spot or has too little space, and you will have wasted your money.

10. Wildflowers

Wildflower lawns, or patches of lawn, are growing in popularity and are increasingly important for our beleaguered insects and wildlife as we continue to build all over their natural habitats.

If you want to plant a wildflower meadow next year, then autumn is the time to start preparing the soil. Wildflowers do best on poor soil so don’t give your lawn its traditional autumn feed, if you usually do this, but do rake out dead grass and moss and don’t leave lawn trimmings lying on the ground as they will enrich the soil.

The next step is to sow the seeds of yellow rattle (available from Amazon), a semi-parasitic plant that weakens the grass roots, thus helping wildflower seeds or plug plants get established when they are sown and planted next spring.

The seeds are widely available online and yellow rattle in itself is an attractive plant with pretty serrated leaves and cheerful yellow flowers that insects love.

Top tip: Don’t forget to keep raking up fallen leaves that land on your lawn as they block sunlight and can harbour pests and disease. They don't have to go to waste, however, as you can make leaf mould and turn them into a rich soil conditioner for use on your beds and borders.

11. Hollyhocks

Hollyhocks make a beautiful addition to a classic cottage garden, introducing statuesque height and colour to any planting scheme.

I've successfully grown hollyhocks from seed and I am still completely thrilled by the success. They brought late colour to the garden, flowering from August well into autumn when I had to stake them up against the first storms of autumn.

Flushed with my success, I am sowing more seeds now, so the seedlings have time to germinate and grow large enough to be planted out earlier than this year’s plants, hopefully flowering earlier as a result.

Once the seedlings have germinated and grown large enough to handle carefully – usually when their small, round germination leaves have been replaced by two sets of 'proper' foliage – you can transplant seedlings from their seed tray to individual pots of compost.

Fill a 7cm pot with multipurpose compost , dampen it and make a deep hole in the centre. Carefully lift the seedling's roots from its tray of compost using an old teaspoon or the end of a plant label and keep the plantlet steady by delicately holding a leaf between fingertip and thumb. Never hold the stem as it is very fragile so you may damage it.

Then pop the roots into the hole in the compost and carefully firm the compost around the stem. Keep the compost damp and the plant pest-free as it grows, and plant it out next spring when the soil has started to warm up and the frosts have finished.

Top tip: Hollyhock rust is a prevalent fungal disease, so if you grow hollyhocks, plant them away from where they have grown previously.

12. Poppies

One of the best ways to make a colourful statement in your garden is to add some poppies to your list of what to plant in October.

Whether they are scarlet field poppies, blowsy Oriental poppies or the slightly smaller opium poppies, which produce seeds that can be used as a delicious topping for cakes and bread, they are easy to sow and well worth growing.

Poppies are hardy, which means they can be sown now, or in spring, though seeds that go in the ground in autumn will germinate and flower earlier than spring-sown ones. A handy trick is to sow some in both seasons so you get a longer succession of colour.

Simply create a seedbed by clearing soil of weeds, stones and debris and then raking the soil until all the lumps are broken up and you are left with a light, crumbly texture.

Water the area and scatter the seeds. If seedlings emerge too close together you can thin them out as they grow to give remaining plants enough light and air to grow well.

Cover your seeds with a little more soil, tamp it down with the back of a rake and label the spot so you don’t accidentally disturb the soil when gardening.

Keep pests, cats and birds away by laying a trellis of spiky twigs or using a deterrent spray or pepper powder.

Top tip: Poppies look gorgeous sown with other wildflower varieties such as cornflowers and corncockles. Annual grasses also set off their dramatic shapes and colours to good effect.

13. Calendula

Calendula, also known as Scotch or pot marigolds, are fabulous hardy annuals that bring a burst of brightness to borders and containers.

We have one growing in a sheltered area of the garden that has been flowering for the past 18 months – right through the cold of winter and well into this summer! The many calendula varieties come in an array of shades, from eye-popping orange to soft cream and deep red. Calendula 'Sherbet Fizz', available from Thompson & Morgan, has a particularly striking colour combination of orange petals with red undersides.

An added benefit of growing marigolds is that their flowers are edible, and their petals have been used to decorate dishes for centuries and as a colourant for butter and cheese.

For a long flowering season, sow them now and again in spring in well-prepared soil in a sunny spot. Thin the seedlings if they are growing too thickly.

If you want to grow Tagetes, the frilly French marigolds, they are only half-hardy and are best sown in pots undercover in spring and planted out once the weather has warmed up and frosts are a thing of the past.

Top tip: Plant a few Tagetes around your vegetable garden as their smell has been scientifically proved to deter whitefly, therefore protecting your crops from this pest.

14. Aquilegia

Aquilegia (also known as columbine and granny’s bonnet), are one of the most varied and diverse of summer flowers, appearing in a wide range of colours and shapes. They cross-breed easily and the end results are plants in a dazzling array of shapes, stem length and colours, from cool cream and green to vibrant reds and purples.

Best of all, caring for them is easy as they are simple to grow, and happy in all soil types, as long as they have some sun and get enough water. They also self-seed remarkably easily, so once you start growing them, they will be with you for the foreseeable future!

For the best results, sow them in trays of seed compost and germinate them on a light, warm windowsill. If they fail to sprout, pop the seed tray in the fridge for two to three weeks, as this ‘tricks’ the seeds into thinking they have been through winter, so they germinate when they are brought back into room temperature.

Grow on the seedlings and plant them to where you want them to flower next spring when it starts to warm up.

To give your October plantings the best chance of success, get up to speed with the differences between compost and topsoil and learn what to use where when growing new plants.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Although there are lots of great options available, there are also some trees that are best avoided if you're after a low-maintenance option. Some trees might have invasive root systems which can interfere with building foundations, or perhaps they shed messy berries or nuts which require frequent clearing up if your garden is small or paved. Alternatively, the tree could be an extremely fast grower which requires regular or even professional trimming, which can be expensive.

With this in mind, our recommendations are for tolerant, easy-care trees which will grow in a variety of soils, light conditions and climates. They are guaranteed to offer shelter, shade, privacy and a haven for wildlife which should last a lifetime. Here are our favourite picks for your low-maintenance garden.

1. Eucryphia nymansensis

Also known as the ‘brush bush,’ this tree offers year-round interest with evergreen foliage and large, scented cup-shaped white flowers in late summer to autumn.

Grow it in partial shade or full sun in a sheltered spot. It is a good choice for larger low-maintenance gardens, reaching an ultimate height of 12-15m. It will look after itself once it’s established, and only really requires a light trim in late winter.

2. Silver birch

The pure white bark of the birch tree is pretty in any season, but it comes into its own in the winter months, when it lights up the garden at the dullest time of the year. Better still, "these trees are bullet proof," says the experts at Form Plants. They recommend the multi-stemmed variety, such as Betula utilis jacquemontii ‘Snow Queen.’

Silver birch will grow in sun or semi-shade in most types of well-drained soil. Once established, these trees need minimal care, and will withstand harsh winters.

For small gardens, try a single-stem variety but always double check the ultimate height and spread before purchasing.

3. Ornamental Cherry

Cherry trees are an asset to any garden design idea. They are prized for their stunning spring blossom in a confetti of pink or white and some varieties are scented. There is plenty of choice in many sizes.

A compact low-maintenance tree is the weeping Prunus yedoensis (available from Thompson & Morgan) which reaches 3m tall in 10 years. A small but stunning choice is Cherry ‘Pink Shell’ which has pastel pink flowers turning to white in April. Slightly larger, Prunus Incisa ‘The Bride’ is covered with single white flowers with a blushed centre from March to April. It grows to about 4m.

Ornamental cherry trees like full sun with moist, well-drained garden soil types. They can also be a good tree for growing in pots.

4. Cornus

Not to be confused with cornus shrubs, cornus or dogwood trees are prized for their pretty flowers and ornamental berries. They will thrive in sun or part shade in all soil types and are a familiar sight in many UK gardens.

For a mass of white flowers, go for Cornus kousa chinensis ‘Schmetterling’. For pink flowers, try ‘Cherokee Daybreak’ with oval variegated leaves, or ‘Variegata.’

5. Amelanchier 

This tree, also known as shadbush and June serviceberry, is often recommended by garden designers as one of the best low-maintenance trees – and for very good reason.

In late April to May, it has clusters of incredibly pretty white star-shaped flowers on soft copper-coloured foliage, instantly lighting up a spring garden. It is a slim tree, making it a suitable tree for a smaller garden or even a courtyard garden.

Amelanchier Lamarkii ‘Ballerina', available from Thompson & Morgan, grows no taller or wider than 4-5m. Though they look delicate, these hardy trees will cope with damp conditions and most soil types, although they do prefer clay or sandy soil.

6. Chinese Redbud

Here is a small tree which punches above its weight, with dense clusters of rosy pink blossom in late spring before the large heart-shaped leaves appear.

Try Cercis chinensis ‘Avondale’ (available from Gardening Express) for a compact tree, which would make a pretty focal point in a small garden. It won’t grow taller than 4m. It flowers in March/April. If space is really tight, it can be kept small with regular pruning.

It thrives in most soils, and is reasonably drought tolerant, once established. For the optimum number of flowers, plant in an open, sunny position with plenty of light.

7. Crab Apple

With a froth of the prettiest blossom in spring, these trees are a rich source of nectar and pollen for insects, and they add appeal to any eco-friendly garden. There are many different varieties and the heights vary, so check carefully before buying.

Smaller ones include malus ‘Butterball’ (from Thompson & Morgan) and malus ‘Wisley Crab’ which can reach about 4m. A larger variety, growing up to 8m is malus ‘Royalty' (from Crocus) or go for malus x Zumi ‘Golden Hornet’ (from Gardening Express), which bears masses of tiny yellow fruits.

Plant these in full sun, in moist but not wet soil, then there is very little maintenance needed. In winter, simply remove any damaged branches, or ones that cross over each other.

8. Acer

Acers, or maples as they are also known, do need a little more care than some of the other low-maintenance trees on our list, but if they are planted in the ground, rather than in a pot, then they are a laid back and joyful addition to the garden, offering fireworks of autumn colour with their beautifully shaped leaves.

"Maples in the ground will look after themselves," advises expert grower Neil Kenney, author of An Illustrated Guide to Japanese Maples (available on Amazon). "They have a surface root system, so in dry weather, they will need watering and mulching (to retain moisture)."

These slow-growers will never overwhelm the garden, meaning they are a great one to include in a low-maintenance garden border. There are many varieties to choose from – try A.palmatum ‘Bloodgood’, which has leaves that will turn from dark red to a searing crimson in autumn.

9. Olive

If you live in a reasonably warm region, trees don’t get much easier to look after than an elegant olive. They are slow growing with attractive silvery, sage-coloured foliage which is evergreen.

There are a few essential care tips. If you are growing an olive tree in a garden planter, it will need watering weekly in hot dry periods in summer, and it’s a good idea to give it a feed in spring with a granular fertiliser.

If temperatures drop to below -12˚C for long periods, the olive tree will need to be over-wintered inside. But in sheltered gardens, when it’s likely to drop below -10˚C, throwing a horticultural fleece coat over the tree should be enough to keep it from frost damage. This garden fleece frost protection from Amazon is suitable for a wide range of plants.

10. Crape Myrtle

Also known as lagerstroemia, this showstopping, low-maintenance tree delivers year-round interest with gorgeous crinkly edged flowers in white, purple or violet in summer, followed by yellow, gold and orange foliage in autumn and then pretty peeling grey/orange bark in the winter months.

It will need planting in a sunny spot, and requires regular watering until it has bedded in. Certain varieties cope better than others with cold weather. The ‘Indiya Charms’ collection offer hardier varieties, but when a harsh frost is forecast, it is still a good idea to pop over a horticultural fleece. There’s no pruning needed, just plant and let it grow.

Lagerstroemia 'Pink Velour', available from Thompson & Morgan, has long-lasting flowers but will need a sunny, sheltered spot to do its best.

11. Magnolia

Perfect for a sheltered spot, these are easy-going, low-maintenance trees, provided they are planted in the right place and in suitable soil. Magnolias can be evergreen or deciduous trees, and there are many varieties to choose from, but they all have stunning, large tulip-shaped or starry flowers which create a focal point.

If your garden has fertile, well-drained clay or acidic soil and it’s not situated in a frost pocket, the magnolia is a brilliant choice (frost will discolour the blossom). They need a very light trim in mid-summer to early autumn, just enough to remove any dead or diseased branches, and benefit from a mulch in spring.

Magnolia 'Susan' (available from Crocus) is a good option for smaller gardens as it will only reach an eventual height of around four metres.

FAQs

How do I choose the right low maintenance tree for my garden? 

Trees are an investment, so it’s important to pick one that’s going to thrive as part of your garden landscaping plans. "A specialist tree supplier or nursery will give you all the information you need," say the experts at Form Plants. "You may be able to book a site visit, so they can assess the soil in your garden before advising you on what to plant."

If this is not possible, when you go tree shopping, take along some photos of your garden showing the proposed site for your tree, including the distance from your house. It can also worth doing this if you're shopping for other plants such as low-maintenance evergreen shrubs too, as it will help your supplier advise on the right option for your space.

How can I help a low-maintenance tree to establish strong roots? 

"People can be put off by the idea of planting trees, but the majority are low maintenance if you look after the roots," say Form Plants. "This is straightforward to do. Before you buy or plant a tree, take time to prepare the soil, digging in some organic matter and doing everything you can to enhance what’s already there."

Organic matter means bought or homemade compost or well-rotted manure. This helps to improve soil structure which leads to healthier plants.

On poor soil, a sprinkle of mycorrhizal fungi (available at Amazon) will also help the tree to establish strong, healthy roots.

Do I need to water a low-maintenance tree? 

Yes, young or newly planted trees should be watered every couple of weeks for about two years after planting. Freshly planted trees have not yet developed a strong root system, so they cannot store much water, which is why they need a regular dose. This is particularly important if you're planting a bare root tree too.

Try to water early or late in the day, so the liquid does not evaporate. Use a garden hose or a bucket, and if the tree is in a pot, go slowly, so that the water soaks in thoroughly, rather than running off.

According to the Tree Council even mature trees should be watered three times a month from April to September. Its advice says: "Concentrate on watering under the canopy of the tree as this is likely to be where the roots are."

If you have never planted a tree before, the prospect of growing such a large and relatively expensive plant can be daunting. In reality, trees are often easier to look after and less needy than some of their smaller plant counterparts.

So long as the ground is prepared before planting, and a suitable variety is chosen for the growing conditions, the most that some trees will demand from you is some water and an occasional trim in the winter.

Looking for other ways to add interest to your garden? Our guide to the best trees with berries has lots more options for creating seasonal interest in your plot.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

But after this year's heatwaves, who knows what winter has in store? So I figured it was time to bite the bullet and tackle the worst of any potential damp and mould before the cold sets in.

Below, I share the tips experts gave me for getting my shed in top condition ahead of a potential cold snap, so I could stop worrying about 2018's Christmas decorations, my exercise bike, and whatever else was lurking in there.

1. Empty it out and identify the real problem

If I'm honest, decluttering my shed felt like a monumental task, and my main reservation was what I thought I was going to find underneath the mess. But according to DIY expert, Georgina Burnett, that's exactly the point of doing it.

"First, empty it completely so you can see how extensive the mould is," she told me. "Before cleaning, you want to identify and fix any sources of moisture and poor ventilation."

"Don't think 'I'm sorting the shed' – think 'I'm finding the problem,'" she said. "Once you know what you're dealing with, the job becomes much less daunting."

That reframing definitely helped. I opened the doors, popped a pair of gloves on and hauled everything out (the bike, several rogue tins of paint that shouldn’t have been stored in the shed, and yes, 2018's Christmas decorations, looking worse for wear).

With the shed empty, what I found wasn't pretty, but it wasn't exactly quarantine-worthy either. The shed had a faint, musty smell that signalled damp and a light ‘dusting’ of green mould on the interior walls that came away with a wipe. It wasn't a great start, but at least now I knew what I was dealing with.

2. Check windows and doors

According to Sam Jenkinson, garden shed expert at Tiger Sheds, doors and windows need a little TLC before winter. My shed doesn't have any windows (thankfully), so I turned first to the door frame, which has always felt a bit stiff to close. I'd put that down to age rather than anything more sinister, but Sam suggests otherwise.

"Checking the frames of your wooden doors and windows is integral in keeping your shed waterproof over the winter months, as the cold weather can make the frames more prone to cracking," he explained.

He recommended looking for gaps around the door and frame, and checking for soft, rotten patches. Sure enough, running my thumb along the base of the frame, one corner gave way more than it should have. For gaps, Sam's advice is straightforward: fill them with sealant, expanding foam, or builders' caulk. For actual rot, you have to get a bit more involved. "Dig them out with a screwdriver and fill the area with a high-quality wood filler," then sand it flush and repaint or re-stain once it's dry.

That's exactly what my door frame needed. I dug out the soft section with an old flathead screwdriver (more of it came away than I'd have liked, but at least it confirmed the rot hadn't spread beyond that one corner), filled it, sanded it back, and left it to dry before doing anything else.

Shop for filling cracks and repairing holes

3. Check the roof for leaks and replace if needed

According to Sam Jenkinson, shed roofs take the worst of the weather over autumn and winter, making them one of the most common points of failure. "You should start by clearing the roof of any leaves or debris so that rain, sleet and hail can easily run off," he says. "Pay close attention to the edges and ridge line for any signs of wear and tear. You can then repair shingles with sealant or replace damaged ones as required."

Mine had months of debris built up, which I cleared with a stiff broom before checking the felt itself for tears, bubbling or lifted seams – the clearest signs that water has been getting underneath rather than running off. Thankfully, it was in better shape than I'd feared: a couple of small tears near one corner, rather than the widespread damage I'd braced myself for.

Patching a small section of felt is a manageable DIY job with the right materials and a dry day. If the damage is more extensive, it's worth remembering that a leaking or poorly fitted roofing is one of the most common causes of persistent damp, so it's not a step worth doing by halves.

Top tip: For small tears and lifted seams, a self-adhesive roofing repair tape is a quick, low-cost fix that doesn't require re-felting the whole roof.

Try these for shed roof repairs

4. Improve ventilation

If there's one issue that came up time and again, it was ventilation. According to Sam Jenkinson, it's one thing most shed owners overlook entirely.

"Ventilation is essential in preventing wood rot in sheds as it controls moisture, which is a primary cause of wood rot," Sam explained. "Proper airflow removes excess moisture from the air and wood structure, reducing the buildup of dampness that promotes fungal growth."

It also helps prevent condensation forming on interior surfaces, something that becomes more of a problem as the gap between indoor and outdoor temperatures widens heading into winter. Without it, condensation sits on the wood and fungal spores thrive.

My shed had every red flag: no vents, a door kept shut most of the year, and boxes pushed against the walls. James Crane, director at Crane Garden Buildings, had flagged exactly this when I spoke to him. "You should avoid stacking belongings tightly against the walls as this restricts airflow," he says.

I haven't fitted vents yet, but when putting everything back, I made sure nothing touched the walls directly, leaving a gap around the base of each shelf too.

5. Reduce moisture inside

With better airflow sorted and the roof checked for leaks, the next job was looking at what was sitting inside the shed, and whether any of it was making things worse.

"Check for damp items inside your shed such as paper, cardboard, and fabrics as these can soak moisture from the walls and floors," warned Sam Jenkinson. "If you identify such items, remove them as soon as possible."

Uncomfortable self-reflection followed. A soggy box of decorations and a long-damp tarpaulin were clearly culprits, holding onto moisture rather than letting it escape. Anything cardboard or fabric-based that wasn't essential went straight to the tip. What was worth keeping went into plastic storage boxes instead, off the floor and away from the walls.

Sam's other suggestion was a dehumidifier: "If you have an electrical supply, a desiccant dehumidifier is a good option. This type is suitable for both cold and warm climates, so it's arguably more suitable for UK weather compared to a compressor dehumidifier."

I don't have power run to my shed, so this wasn't an option for me, but if you do, it's worth factoring in, especially for a shed used as an office or hobby space rather than just storage.

Top tip: If you don't own a moisture meter – like this Dryzone Moisture Detector from Amazon – Georgina Burnett suggests borrowing rather than buying one for a single project. Schemes like DIY Toolshare let you borrow tools locally at a fraction of retail cost.

6. Treat the exterior with a wood preserver

Last on the list, and in some ways the most satisfying step, is giving the outside of the shed a proper protective treatment. According to Sam Jenkinson, this is the step that makes the biggest difference to keeping problems from coming back.

"One of the best ways to prevent leaking wooden shed walls is to treat them with a wood preservative," Sam explains. "This should be carried out once a year to ensure it remains effective at keeping any fungi, dry rot, pests and wet rot at bay."

There's a right way and a wrong way to go about it, though. "Make sure your shed is completely dry as to not trap any moisture," Sam says. "Next, clean the surface and inspect for any damage, such as signs of rot, decay, or cracks in the timber cladding that may need to be repaired before treatment."

That meant waiting for a dry, mild day and giving the shed a proper once-over first: brushing off dirt, cobwebs and loose debris, and checking every panel for anything I'd missed earlier.

"Once this has been done, remove any hardware and lightly sand the surface to enhance the treatment's absorption," Sam continues. "Finally, you're ready to apply the wood preservative with either a brush or roller."

Essentials for shed exteriors

FAQs

How do you know when a shed is beyond repair?

Working through this list, I was relieved to discover most of what was wrong with my shed was fixable with a weekend and a fairly modest shopping list. Not every mouldy shed gets off that lightly, though, and it's worth knowing the difference before you sink time and money into a lost cause.

I put this to James Crane, who's seen plenty of sheds in far worse states than mine.

"Some moisture is inevitable in any unheated garden building, but persistent damp shouldn't be," he told me. "The quality of the building and how it has been constructed can make a significant difference."

Mould that keeps coming back, no matter what you do to it, is usually a sign of something structural. "Mould and damp in a garden shed are usually caused by moisture getting in and then having nowhere to escape," James explains. "Common culprits include leaking or poorly fitted roofing, gaps around windows and doors, inadequate ventilation, and a shed base that allows moisture to rise from the ground."

It's also worth being honest about what you're working with in the first place. "More basic, lightweight sheds can sometimes lack the robust construction and weatherproofing needed for year-round British conditions, which may make problems with water ingress, condensation and damp more likely over time," James says.

So how do you actually tell if you're past the point of DIY fixes? A few signs to watch for:

• Rot that keeps spreading. If you've dug out and filled one soft patch, only to find another forming nearby a few months later, the timber itself may be failing rather than just a single damaged section.
• A shed base that's compromised. If moisture is rising up from the ground rather than coming in through the walls or roof, no amount of exterior treatment will fix it, the base itself needs attention or replacing.
• Structural give. Walls, floor or roof panels that flex, sag or feel spongy across a wide area, rather than one contained spot, usually point to damage that's gone beyond a filler-and-preserver job.
• It keeps coming back despite doing everything right. As James puts it, catching a small leak or condensation problem early is far easier than dealing with established mould or damaged timber later on. If you've ventilated, decluttered, treated and it's still returning, the source of the moisture likely hasn't actually been resolved.

It's worth learning how to clean mould off wood properly before you treat and repaint your shed. And once your shed is sound again, choosing the best exterior wood paint for the job will help keep it that way for years to come.

They can provide much-needed privacy, shelter in an exposed spot, or act as sound-proof barrier near a busy road. Thorny or spiny hedges are also a good deterrent against intruders, while other varieties offer a habitat for wildlife.

Whether you're looking for an alternative to garden fencing or you simply want to green up your garden boundaries, there are plenty of hedging plants that will suit your needs and plot, and we've selected 12 of the best options for UK gardens.

1. Laurel 

There are many plants in the Laurel family, but one of the best for hedging is the cherry laurel. It is one of the best screening plants as it's an evergreen, with neat, glossy, rounded leaves that form a dense screen. This can help with noise reduction, and it performs as an effective wind break too.

It has been rated as the UK’s most popular landscape and garden shrub, partly due to the fact that it is so low maintenance and will grow in full sun or in shady areas. All it needs is a trim once a year, in late winter or early spring (twice a year if you prefer a more formal look).

It's also one of the best fast growing hedges, with a growth rate of around 30-60cm a year, and the final height is 5m, but it is easy to contain and can be trimmed back as hard as you like.

2. Thuja

This evergreen conifer has fan-like sprays of thick, bushy leaves. It grows at a rate of 75cm a year, offering fast coverage, so it is ideal if you are in urgent need of some garden privacy.

There are lots of different varieties, but Thuja plicata is an excellent choice. It has foliage all year round, with green leaves in spring and coppery shades in the autumn. Keep it watered during spring and summer, and add a mulch in winter to lock in moisture.

Add a general purpose feed in the spring, and keep on top of pruning so the hedge doesn’t get out of control. Early autumn is the best time for this.

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3. Bamboo

If you're looking for one of the best hedging plants for a modern garden, then bamboo is a good option. The upright canes with their elegant, rustling foliage create the perfect informal boundary, and you can expect them to grow around 75cm in a year.

The downside of these lofty plants is that they can be invasive, and intrude into neighbouring gardens. Choose a clump forming bamboo, such as phyllostachys viridiglaucescens or an umbrella variety such as fargesia murielae, which are less thuggish.

Plant in spring or summer into rich soil, and keep well-watered. If the bamboo gets too tall, it will stand a brutal chop back, and the old canes can be removed in the spring. They will reach up to 5m tall, so they can create a highly effective screening barrier.

If, however, you're keen to replace bamboo with something else, follow the expert tips on how to remove bamboo in our dedicated guide.

4. Phillyrea Angustifolia 

Neat and tidy Phillyrea Angustifolia (available at Thompson & Morgan), also known as Jasmine box, is an evergreen shrub with dark narrow green leaves. The experts at Squires Garden Centres recommend it as one of their best hedging plants for ease and versatility.

It provides small clusters of fragrant cream flowers from late spring to early summer. It is a good alternative to classic box, but it will not suffer from box blight, a fungal disease which is now widespread in some areas of the UK.

Plant in full sun or partial sun in a moist well-drained soil. It is hardy and will tolerate severe winters. The ultimate height is 2.5-4m and the spread 1.5-2.5m. Trim back in late winter or early spring.

5. Rosa glauca

If you're on the lookout for small garden ideas and need a hedging plant to suit, this pretty flowering hedge is a good choice.

In small spaces, every plant has to work hard for its keep, and Rosa glauca, also referred to as Red Leaf Rose and available from Thompson & Morgan, offers pretty pink blooms in summer and red, cherry-like hips in the autumn. It makes a lovely informal barrier, with blue green foliage on reddish stems.

Suitable for most soil types, it’s a hardy plant, which will thrive in coastal areas, windy conditions and frost pockets.

Plant it as a bare root, between October and April in full sun or part shade. It will grow up to 3m tall, but it can be pruned back after flowering. It has gained the RHS Order of Merit for being attractive and easy to grow.

6. Box

A box hedge works well in all size gardens, but it’s well suited to smaller spaces as it is compact with small leaves, slow growing and very easy to clip to size. It works as a low, formal hedge or as garden edging for borders or garden paths.

It should be clipped twice a year, in early and late summer. The only downside is that it can be prone to box blight. If the leaves develop brown spots, it is likely to be blight: there is little in the way of effective treatment and it usually has to be removed.

Shop for garden tools to maintain your hedging plants

7. Hornbeam

This plant makes an elegant, even hedge, and it suits a long sweep of land and a more formal looking garden. Although it is deciduous, the foliage changes colour but then stays on the branches over winter, so can be a suitable choice if you're looking for year-round garden screening planting.

A moderately fast grower, hornbeam (available at Crocus) will increase in height by 20-40cm each year. It can also be pruned into shape, in late spring and again in early August. It's best to plant it in the autumn.

8. Western Hemlock

This is an evergreen conifer which creates a tall, dense hedge. Its size, up to a whopping 30m tall, means that it’s best planted in very large gardens only. The branches have leaves that resemble needles, and green cones which turn brown in the autumn.

Keep it under control with a hard trim in early autumn. This is one of the hardiest evergreen hedges and will cope with shady conditions and extreme weather conditions.

9. Photinia X Fraseri ‘Louise’ 

The experts at Squires recommend this hedging plant for its interesting foliage. Although evergreen, the colours subtly change, turning from red to olive green with pink margins, then mature to dark grey-green with creamy-white edges. Cream spring flowers are followed by red fruits.

Plant Photinia X Fraseri ‘Louise’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) in sun or partial shade in moist well-drained soil. The ultimate height and spread is 4m.

10. Yew

This dense, bushy shade-loving evergreen is a classic option for using planting to zone your garden, as it can help to define different spaces in your plot. It has tiny needle-like green leaves and red berries in the autumn.

It lends itself to clipping neatly into shape, and this should be done in spring or summer. It will grow up to 15m tall, so it needs to be closely monitored. The downside is that all parts of the plant are toxic, so it best avoided in spaces shared with young children and animals.

Wondering what other plants are toxic to pets? Take a look at these dog-friendly garden ideas to make sure your outdoor space is habitable for all the family.

11. Pyracantha ‘Mohave’

If you've been looking into types of fences, but would prefer something a little more natural looking than a solid wooden fence, this evergreen shrub is ideal. It's good for adding privacy, security and soundproofing to any plot. It has small, dense green leaves and spiky upright stems. Seasonal interest is provided with white flowers in early summer and clusters of vivid red berries after that.

For a wilder, more informal look, which will deter intruders, leave the hedge to grow undisturbed, or, if you prefer a neat boundary, cut it to shape in spring and late summer. It prefers moist, well-drained soil, and when it is established, it can put on up to 60cm of growth a year.

12. Privet

Only the harshest of winters will cause privet to lose its neat green leaves, so it’s a reliable choice for any hedge. It's also one of the best hedging plants for an urban garden as it will tolerate high pollution levels.

There are two species of privet: garden privet (Ligustrum ovafolium) and wild privet (Ligustrum vulgare). Wild privet is native to the UK, whereas garden privet originated in Japan. They are hard to tell apart, but wild privet is a better option for wildlife gardens.

Fast growing, dense, and easy to keep in shape, privet will thrive almost anywhere. However, it does need to be regularly watered during the first two years after planting. Bear in mind that the berries are toxic.

Ligustrum vulgare 'Liga' is available from Suttons and offers vibrant flowers and berries.

FAQs

How do you plant a hedge?

Ready to plant your chosen hedging plants? Here's what you need to do.

1. Thoroughly prepare the ground before planting a hedge. Weed it thoroughly, six weeks before planting, and then again just before you put in the plants.
2. Dig some well-rotted compost into a trench, which should be wider and deeper than the roots of the hedge plant.
3. Check the plant label for spacing advice, as hedging plants vary widely depending on the variety. Laurel needs wide spacing at about 60cm, whereas privet is best planted with four plants per metre, for example.
4. Spread out the roots, and plant at the correct depth. As a guide, the point where the roots meet the stem of the hedge plant should be level with the soil.
5. Backfill the hole using the soil you originally dug out, adding in some compost more compost or other organic if required.
6. Water well after planting, particularly if the soil is very dry.

What's the cheapest way to plant a hedge? 

The most economical way to plant a hedge is to buy bare root plants. These are available from online nurseries and garden centres between October and March. Container grown plants give a head start, but they will cost more. Bare root plants should be planted as soon as possible after purchase.

Should you water a hedge?

It is important to water a hedge regularly after planting it. The experts at Suttons suggest that when a bare root hedge has been planted: "give it two to four litres per plant, depending on its size." They add: "Continue to soak your plants, roughly twice a week, applying water directly to the soil rather than the leaves."

What time of year should you prune a hedge?

When and how much to prune a hedge depends on the variety you have planted. The team at Suttons advise: "pruning is very much species-dependent, as certain species should be pruned immediately after planting, whereas others should be left until later in the year. There are also certain species which should not be pruned until they have reached their desired height."

it's also always best to avoid disturbing hedges during birds’ nesting season, which typically runs throughout spring and summer.

Before choosing a hedging plant, it’s a good idea to make a list of the functions you would like it to perform, and then find a plant which matches these needs.

There are a few pitfalls to watch for. Check to make sure that you are not planting a hedge that will grow too large for the space you have, or whose roots may disturb shared drainage or utilities. Hedges are a notorious cause of neighbour disputes. If you have inherited a hedge that seems to be out of control, research when it might be the best to cut it back, as this varies from species to species.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

So how do you prevent your once verdant green haven from turning into a dried-out disaster area? By employing some water-saving garden design, that's how.

We've asked garden and plant experts what they'd do to create drought-tolerant flowerbeds and planters, and for clever landscaping tips that use what little water there is to best effect, without waste.

11 water-saving garden design ideas

1. Harvest water with rain chains

A good start is to make use of what water there is available through rainwater harvesting. "Plants actually prefer to 'drink' rainwater as it does not contain unwanted chemicals and minerals like calcium and fluoride," says David Nicholson of sustainable plant pot company, Elho.

Rain barrels and water butts are a great way of harvesting rainwater for the garden, and many – like the recycled plastic Elho Green Basics Rain Catcher, £72.50, – can easily be installed to drains and downpipes.

But for a more decorative option, consider using rain chains. "These guide water from the gutter into storage tanks of your choosing," says Victoria Parkinson, garden expert at Arctic Cabins. "These tanks can even double as ornamental ponds. Some modern tanks even feature smart technology that can be programmed to release water before a downpour, making the ground more absorbent and freeing up capacity to capture more rain.”

Designed by Belderbos Landscapes, in association with Water Artisans, the garden sanctuary shown below featured at RHS Chelsea Flower Show back in 2024, and does exactly that. Rain chains are a central part of the design, collecting rainwater and directing it into galvanised metal reservoirs that serve as both ornamental ponds and water storage. When needed, the tanks can be emptied to irrigate the surrounding plants.

Shop decorative rain chains

2. Install an attenuation pond

In gardens starved of water, adding a water source makes a lot of sense. But while conventional garden pond ideas will naturally store rainwater for use in dry periods, specialist pond designer Michael Wheat says an attenuation pond is a better solution.

"An attenuation pond can be specifically designed to capture rainwater from roofs, patios and other hard surfaces, rather than allowing that water to disappear into the drainage system," he explains. "It means the pond isn’t simply an attractive feature – it's a reservoir in the garden that can help manage rainfall, reduce pressure on drainage and keep useful water on the property."

But won't a pond lose water through evaporation during hot, dry spells? "Yes," admits Michael, "but a properly designed pond contains a substantial volume of water and won't simply dry out." Good design can also reduce unnecessary water loss. "Planting and areas of shade can help, and collecting rainwater from roofs and buildings provides a much more sustainable way of replenishing a pond when rainfall returns," he says.

Cost-wise, Michael says a small DIY wildlife pond will cost hundreds but no more than a few thousand pounds.

"At the other end of the scale, professionally designed landscape and swimming ponds are significant constructions," he tells us. "The excavation, drainage, structural work, specialist waterproofing, filtration, planting, electrics, landscaping and sometimes heating needed can total thousands to tens of thousands of pounds. Bespoke natural swimming ponds can comfortably run into six figures."

"The most important thing for homeowners is to establish what they want the pond to achieve first," Michael adds. "Is it primarily for wildlife, appearance, swimming, water storage or a combination of those things? Once that is clear, the design, size and budget can be built around it."

3. Choose drought-tolerant plants

If you fear that warmer summers will turn your garden into a dull, desert-like space, welcome to the world of drought-tolerant plants. These beauties can withstand extended periods of heat and limited water supplies, yet still provide the bursts of colour we love.

"Choosing resilient plants that naturally thrive in drier conditions, such as Agave, Echinops and Eryngium, is a simple way to create a beautiful garden that requires less watering," says Charlotte McGrattan, Hardy Nursery Stock Buyer at Hillier Garden Centres. "Agave is an excellent option, storing water in its fleshy leaves and requiring very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for those wanting a hassle-free garden with a hint of exotic charm."

Plant expert Sarah Raven suggests some of her favourite drought-tolerant varieties below. She's also a big fan of Limonium ‘Dazzle Rocks’ (£2.95 for 3 x 9cm pots, Sarah Raven): "They produce an array of stunning pink-purple flowers, which attract bees and butterflies into the whole garden through summer. Drought tolerant and heat resistant, this compact Limonium is actually small enough to thrive in a perennial pot or front of the border."

Sarah Raven's drought-tolerant plant picks

4. Surround water-hungry plants with shade planting

If you can't bear to give up your favourite needier blooms, one option is to protect them with the shade of other species. "How you arrange your planting can make just as much difference as what you plant," says Charlotte McGrattan. "Positioning taller shrubs and structural plants to cast light shade over lower-growing varieties helps keep the soil cooler, reduces evaporation and protects plants from the hottest part of the day."

For example, in the Gold Medal-winning Ecotherapy Garden exhibited at RHS Chelsea Flower Show in 2024, maple trees and multi-stemmed hawthorns cast afternoon shade over ferns, hostas, tiarella and other woodland plants, reducing their demand for water without compromising their growth.

Top tip: If you're planning to install extra trees as shade to protect other plants, choose younger saplings. Why? "A young tree will require less water than a mature one, and will catch up within 5-7 years, while making a healthier, more drought-tolerant specimen," advises garden designer Wendy Smith, AKA The Plantsmith.

Three of the best drought-tolerant trees

Dr Russell Sharp, founder of law and crop care company Eutrema, suggests three trees homeowners should consider if they want their garden to cope better with hotter, drier British summers:

1. Golden hop tree: "If you haven’t got a huge garden, golden hop tree, Ptelea trifoliata, ‘Aurea’, grows to roughly 2.5 to four metres and has lovely golden-green leaves, so you get plenty of colour without ending up with an enormous tree. I’d also consider it as a drought-tolerant alternative to common ash."

2. Strawberry tree: "Arbutus unedo, ‘Atlantic’, is a compact evergreen with white flowers, colourful fruit and attractive bark, so you get interest at different times of the year rather than just for a few weeks. It handles dry conditions well once settled in, and at around four metres it’s still a realistic option for plenty of ordinary gardens."

3. Whitebeam: "If you’ve got more room to play with, try Sorbus aria, ‘Lutescens’, or whitebeam. Its young leaves have a lovely silvery appearance that helps reflect strong sunlight, and you also get white flowers followed by red berries. It copes with dry conditions and urban pollution, which makes it a good option for a larger suburban garden."

5. Try planting into sand

A switch that may seem strange at first, but makes sense the more you think about it, is to swap soil for sand.

“Sand can be used as a planting medium, as we’re seeing in some gardens by designers including Tom Stuart-Smith (see the Plant Library, below) and at places such as Knepp and Beth Chatto’s garden," explains Wendy Smith. "The idea is to plant bare-root plants or small 9cm pots into around 20cm of sharp sand. It creates tougher growing conditions, which encourages plants to develop deeper roots."

"They may be slower to get going initially, but in the long term you can end up with tougher, more climate-resistant plants that are better able to cope with dry conditions. It’s a really interesting approach if you want a garden that can thrive with less watering.”

But what plants are most likely to survive in these sandy conditions? "Look to nature, and hotter countries in the Mediterranean. Ask yourself what thrives there? Lavender, salvia, rosemary and grasses are all a good start," says Wendy.

6. Add garden structures

"A little shade goes a long way, which we don't always appreciate until experiencing extreme heat," says Wendy Smith. "In the past, clients would often ask for sunny patios, but as summers become hotter and we become more conscious of water use, creating shaded outdoor spaces is increasingly important."

While Wendy is a big fan of using stylish umbrella trees to create protection, she isn't averse to using manmade structures in her designs, too. "Pergolas and gazebos are a great instant way to introduce shade, and they can be particularly useful for creating cooler areas without relying on water-hungry planting," she says.

Shop shade-giving structures

7. Swap all-over paving for gravel and planting

If you’re looking for ways to make your garden more drought-tolerant, you might think that introducing lots of paving and ditching the majority of plants makes sense, but not having anywhere for precious water to run off could cause structural issues to your home, and doesn't make the best of the water that is available.

Instead, Wendy Smith prefers to use some paving with gravel. "Leaving gaps between pavers and creating little planting pockets can make a surprisingly big difference. You could even plant something like creeping thyme through a gravel path," she says. "Gravel and natural stone allow rainwater to soak into the ground rather than simply running off a hard surface, while planting helps to soften the look of a patio or front garden."

"I walk past so many front gardens, especially, which are completely block paved or concreted," she adds. "Just leaving a little space for plants can transform the whole frontage of a house, adding life and energy – chi, if you will.”

8. Lawns aren't off limits

Gravel isn't for everyone, and you might not want to give up on grass so easily. If that's the case, there are plenty of lawn care tips that will keep it in shape.

Established lawns are surprisingly resilient, so they’ll bounce back when the rain returns. “Brown patches, slower growth and dry, compacted soil are all common after a heatwave, but most lawns will bounce back with the right care," says Peter Chaloner, Managing Director of Cobra. "If some areas are still brown, don't be too quick to replace them. Grass often enters a dormant state during prolonged heat and, given time and the right conditions, many lawns will recover naturally over the coming weeks."

During a heatwave, avoid watering the lawn little and often, as this can encourage shallow rooting and leave turf more vulnerable to drying out. Instead, aim to water thoroughly and less frequently to encourage roots to grow deeper into the soil, where moisture remains available for longer.

Once the temperature drops, be gentle and resume mowing gradually rather than shocking the lawn with a heavy cut. "As growth returns, regular mowing at a raised height will encourage the lawn to thicken up while allowing the grass to rebuild its strength," says Peter.

“Looking ahead, adopting drought-resistant mowing practices can help your lawn cope better with future periods of extreme weather," says Peter. "Mowing little and often, keeping mower blades sharp, and avoiding cutting the grass too short all help to reduce stress and improve drought tolerance. Leaving the grass slightly longer during warm weather also shades the soil, slowing evaporation and helping retain valuable moisture."

9. Look at alternatives to traditional turf

Not everyone can bear the thought of looking at or fixing brown grass after a hot summer, but there alternatives. "If you’re feeling adventurous, you could even replace part of your lawn with low-water, alternatives like clover or creeping thyme, which stay green with far less effort," says Victoria Parkinson .

Another answer lies in eco-friendly garden ideas, and specifically wildflower meadows. "Most native wildflowers have evolved to cope with dry spells and drought once established, and still deliver an impressive display," says Dr Emily Attlee, a conservation scientist and co-founder of seed company Seedball. "Many store seeds beneath the soil, ready to regenerate when conditions improve. So, if you're looking to future-proof your garden, wildflowers are a smart, sustainable choice.”

Among Emily's top wildflower picks are Cornflowers and the not-to-be-confused Coneflower: "a feast for the eyes, easy to grow and adored by pollinators, Coneflowers are also tough, reliable perennials that return year after year," she says. Musk Mallow is another favourite. "With its soft pink blooms and classic cottage garden appeal, musk mallow is both hardy and low maintenance. It tolerates drought well, disappears in autumn, and returns reliably each spring, making it a wildlife-friendly favourite."

10. Improve soil health

The next effective ways to create a water-wise garden is to focus on improving the soil rather than simply watering more.

"Healthy soil that's rich in organic matter – such as well-rotted farmyard manure – acts like a sponge, absorbing rainfall when it arrives and holding onto moisture for much longer," explains Matt J Adams, founder of The Relentless Gardener. "This means plants have access to water over an extended period, reducing the need for frequent watering during dry spells while also encouraging stronger, deeper root systems that are naturally more drought-tolerant."

"Products such as Blooms Booster feed plants while improving the soil's ability to retain moisture due its 25% liquid seaweed content. It can also be used on lawns to further significantly reduce summer watering, helping create healthier, more drought-resilient gardens without relying on the hose."

Shop resilience-building plant feeds

11. Incorporate mulch

According to Michael Wheat, mulching is the single highest-impact water-retention technique you can try in a garden – whether around your pond or otherwise. "Adding a top cover bark or composted material around plant roots reduces surface evaporation significantly, particularly on free-draining soils during dry spells," he says.

Sam Proctor, founder of Chiltern Garden Design, agrees. "Apply a thick layer of mulch around your plants, but keep it away from any woody stems to prevent them rotting," he advises. "This will help to keep moisture in the soil and enhance the soil’s texture as it slowly breaks down."

Michael recommends applying a 7-10cm deep layer in early spring before the ground dries out. And Victoria Parkinson also warns: “Choose your mulch wisely, as the type of mulch you use makes a big difference. For the best water-saving results, use a pale-coloured, large-particle mulch like sheep’s wool, straw, or chopped herbaceous stems."

"These reflect heat, insulate roots and allow water to drain straight through to the root zone," she says. "Dark, finely divided compost can actually encourage surface roots and increase water loss through evaporation."

Q&A

What can I do to protect plants in a heatwave?

When the thermostat starts to rise, David Glass, Head Gardener at Bowood House & Gardens, advises you take the following actions:

1. Move your potted plants

“During the middle of a hot spell, give your potted plants a break from the heat by moving them to a slightly shadier spot," says David. "Positioning pots in a cooler spot helps the soil hold on to moisture for longer and protects your plants from drying out too quickly."

2. Water at the right time

"I always recommend watering during the coolest parts of the day, either first thing in the morning or in the evening," says Peter. "This gives the water more time to soak into the soil and avoids it evaporating in the sun. If you water during the hottest parts of the day, most of the moisture disappears before it even reaches the roots. Also, established plants usually don’t need as much water as you think and overwatering can actually do more harm than good," he adds. "Water less often, but thoroughly, to encourage the roots to go deeper into the soil, making the plant stronger and more drought-tolerant in the long run."

3. Do some weeding

You might prefer to be soaking up the rays on a sun lounger, but donning your gardening gloves and doing a bit of maintenance could be worth the sweat and tears. "Weeds are surprisingly thirsty, so keep your borders weed-free and make sure the water you do use goes to the right plants," says Peter. "It’s a simple job that makes a real difference, especially when water is scarce."

4. Use water-retaining crystals in containers

“For baskets and containers, I suggest mixing water-retaining gel into the compost," says Peter. "The granules absorb water and release it slowly, which means plants stay hydrated for longer and don’t need to be watered as frequently."

Feeling more reassured you can save your garden, or even incorporate many of these ideas into your next garden design? You can also find more inspiration in these Mediterranean garden ideas which are designed for warmer climates, along with garden sunshade ideas to help you keep warm while you're outside enjoying your new space.

It's understandable why you might be scratching your head over the matter too. They're both brown and earthy, can be bought from the garden centres in bags, and are used for growing plants. In fact, even if you dabble in your own DIY composting, you might be unsure of how exactly to use it and when to use topsoil instead.

Knowing the differences, and the best ways to use them, gives you a much better chance of successful gardening and might even cost you less. So, to clear up any confusion once and for all, we've brought together everything you need to know when it comes to compost vs topsoil. You'll soon see that it's really quite straightforward.

What is topsoil?

Topsoil, as its name suggests, is the very top layer of natural soil and the most nutrient-dense. It is readily available to buy in bags from DIY stores and garden centres.

As the RHS explains, shop-bought topsoil tends to be categorised into three different types: premium, general-purpose and economy. Premium is the priciest, but the extra cost should buy you a weed-free mix that's high in fertility and has a good, loamy structure. It's a great pick if you're planning on including any new flowerbeds in your future landscaping ideas.

General-purpose topsoil can also be used when creating new borders, or when sowing fresh lawns. You can buy different screen-sized grades – this refers to the mesh screen the soil is sifted through – varying between coarser and finer textures. Coarser grades are good for laying turf (and are generally cheaper) whilst finer grades are better for top dressing lawns, explains the RHS.

Economy topsoil generally hasn't been sifted or 'screened' and is the least expensive. It tends to be used for more structural projects – if you want to build up a level in a sloping garden, for instance. The uneven texture can make it more difficult for plants to grow, which is why it's better used for landscaping rather than gardening. If you want to use it as a filler when building large raised garden beds, however, a finer topsoil can always be added to the top.

Bear in mind that general-purpose, economy, and even some premium topsoils run the risk of having weeds, and sometimes rocks and glass. Carefully check the soil for this before you buy if possible, but still be prepared to do a bit of maintenance once you've got it in place.

What is compost?

Now, compost. This material is made from decomposed organic matter. If you've got a compost bin in your garden, then you may have already seen your old veg scraps transform into a rich, earthy substance over time. Hot composting or indeed worm composting will get you these results faster.

Of course, if you don't make your own, you can buy it (just remember to opt for peat-free compost – crucial for helping out our environment). Whether it's homemade or not, compost slowly releases nutrients when added to the soil – a lot more than topsoil – which are then absorbed by plants.

It can also improve garden drainage, especially in compacted soils, so in general it's a great way to boost the quality of your garden planters, raised beds, and borders. Think of it as a soil amendment. However, it's more expensive than topsoil and tends to retain water less easily.

Save money and make your own compost

Can you mix topsoil and compost together?

When growing plants, you absolutely can – and ideally should – mix together topsoil and compost to get the best of both worlds. This is an ideal approach if you're creating new raised beds or borders.

The topsoil, being less expensive, will provide the quantity of material needed for the project. It will also help the area retain water better (compost tends to dry out much quicker). However, mixing in compost will give the soil an extra boost of valuable nutrients which will help your plants grow stronger and healthier.

You can also mix the two to create your own potting compost, or for your container garden. For these, as well as very hungry plants, such as those in your vegetable garden, it's often a good idea to add a fertiliser to the mix too.

FAQs

Can you use fertiliser instead of compost?

Now you know more about compost vs topsoil, you might be wondering if you can switch in fertiliser instead of compost. After all, both composting and fertilising plants provides them with nutrients, so aren't they pretty much the same thing?

Not quite. Although fertiliser is a great addition to soil mixes, it releases nutrients much quicker and is more expensive (especially if you make your own compost). It also does nothing for the structure of the ground – how well it breaks up the soil, for example.

For those reasons, it's best to use compost mixed with topsoil to create an optimal and sustainable environment for your plants, and then add in fertiliser should you need it. This could be to amend specific nutrient deficiencies or to give veggies a boost during their growing season, for instance.

Whether you're gearing up for your next landscaping project or just fancy creating a colourful new autumn window box display, knowing the differences between compost and topsoil and when to use each one will ensure you get the best results for your garden.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Perhaps you're trying to cut down on the amount of household waste you throw away. Maybe you're keen to come up with your own homemade, peat-free alternative to do your bit to protect fragile peatland habitats. Or, perhaps you'd simply like to save money on soil improvers, fertilisers, and material for mulching by giving your garden an all-natural boost.

Whatever your reasons, composting can be done in all kinds of plots – even in very small gardens. In fact, even if you don't have a garden, you can still follow the same method on a smaller scale. Simply use a kitchen compost bin to make compost for window boxes and container plants.

How do you make compost yourself?

1. Layer it: Speed up the compost process by layering your compost heap or bin correctly: line the bottom with straw, twigs, or even old newspaper, then alternate green and brown (or wet and dry) materials. Veggie peelings, tea bags, and food scraps count as wet, whereas leaves, twigs, and wood ash or pellets count as dry.
2. Feed it: Your compost will be more nutrient rich and will mature quicker if you add a nitrogen-rich feed or well-rotted manure.
3. Water it: It might sound strange, but it's good practice to 'water' your compost to prevent it from drying out – rain water is fine, or you can lightly hose it. Just make sure that it's not soaking wet. You'll find more info on this below.
4. Turn it: Turn your compost regularly (also see below) – about once a month. This introduces the air needed to speed up the composting process.
5. Put a lid on it: Lots of rain will cool the compost heap down and slow the composting process so it’s important to keep it covered. If using a compost bin, cover it with the lid provided.

Compost bins to consider

How do I choose and position a compost bin?

First, you'll need a sturdy lidded compost bin. Choosing the correct compost bin is crucial to correct composting. Ideally, you want a bin that's made from metal or wood.

However, plastic ‘Dalek’ bins (which have an open base, a fitted plastic lid and a sliding front access hatch) work well for small gardens and are easier to use than traditional wooden ones. They can also be used for ‘continuous composting’ – where you add green waste at the top and dig rotted compost out at the bottom.

A garden compost bin should ideally have ventilation (think a slatted construction, for instance), and contact with the ground.

"An earth base allows drainage and access to soil organisms, but if you have to compost on a hard surface, then add a spadeful of soil to the compost bin," advises the RHS. It should also have a cover to protect your compost from the rain, or you'll end up with a mixture that is too wet.

If it's a kitchen composting bin, place it away from direct sunlight – under the sink is ideal. Add a layer of garden soil to the bottom of the bin to help the composting process. Whether it's an indoor or outdoor compost bin, the larger the better.

It's also possible to make compost without a bin and use a shady corner of the garden instead. Ideally, choose an area covered by a tree or some sort of canopy to protect it from the rain and protect it from rats and mice.

What can you put in a compost bin?

The best way to create good compost is with a wide range of green and brown waste materials. Layer up green material (grass, deadheadings, kitchen peelings, and soft prunings) with brown waste such as shredded cardboard and paper, and woody prunings cut as small as possible.

Leftover ash after firing up your BBQ is good too, but it should be cold and not contain food scraps. "Ideally, place a lot of composting materials on the heap in one go," says the RHS.

Green waste

Between a quarter and half of your compost should be organic waste, primarily from vegetables and fruit. Cut grass from your lawn and annual weeds (before they've gone to seed) are also good sources of green waste for your compost.

No-dig gardening expert Charles Dowding even adds the roots and leaves of perennial weeds such as docks, nettles, buttercups, and dandelions. "They break down even in winter's cooler heaps, and regrow only if left exposed to light," he says.

Brown waste

This is the dry waste that helps to aerate your compost and prevent it from getting too wet and rotting, as opposed to composting. Use dead, dried plants, shredded paper and cardboard. But bear in mind that too much brown waste in your compost should be avoided, otherwise you won't get the rich, soil-like compost texture in the end.

What not to include

Don't add fish, meat, bones, or dairy waste to your compost bin – you won't get the right balance of nutrients and adding this kind of waste could attract rats or mice to the heap.

Do you need to turn compost?

Some gardeners swear by turning compost, saying it's important as it adds air to the mixture, which is essential for the chemical processes that make the compost.

In fact, the RHS says that "failure to turn the heap is the main cause of poor results." Without sufficient air, the compost can be compacted, slimy, and rotting. This is often the case when you're making compost on a small scale and only add waste every so often without turning it.

So, for best results, turn your compost monthly, or as often as you can with a pitchfork. If you're making compost indoors in a small kitchen container, you can turn the contents with a long-handled kitchen utensil.

For larger outdoor compost heaps, you can also use a compost aerator to pump air into your compost. If your compost is placed in an informal pile rather than a bin, watch out for hibernating animals in autumn and winter – especially if you've introduced some biodiverse garden ideas to your plot. They may be sheltering there, having been attracted to the warmth.

However, there's another school of thought that says if you layer your compost correctly, making sure that there's ample brown waste between layers of green, you shouldn't need to turn it.

How long does it take to make compost?

It can take anywhere between several months and over a year for compost to rot down enough to be ready to be used as part of your budget garden ideas. This depends on the average temperature, the materials you're using, and how well the compost is aerated.

You'll know it's ready when it has a rich, crumbly texture, and a uniform brown colour. Compost that's ready has a fairly pleasant smell of damp earth. Not all the compost in your bin or heap will mature at the same rate though, and you may end up discarding some of it, or putting it back into the container to continue rotting as you add in new layers of waste.

FAQs

How much water should you add to your compost?

A lack of moisture will slow down or stop the decomposition of the compost, so during very dry spells, irrespective of what time of year it is, remember to add a can or two of water every now and again.

Recently mowed the lawn? Fresh grass clippings are another good material for adding moisture, as are fruit and vegetable peelings.

Getting the moisture level right can be a fine balance. If it becomes too wet, try adding some chopped woody material and shredded cardboard or paper.

What is a compost tumbler?

A compost tumbler is a sealed drum-shaped compost container on a stand, which turns on its axis with a push, or has a handle attached. With these, you place your composting material in the drum and turn the handle every two to three days. You should have rich, crumbly compost within three weeks – perfect if you're short on time and after low maintenance garden ideas.

What is worm composting?

For another speedy composting process – and handy for a household with limited outdoor space – consider worm composting. A starter kit (such as this Wiggly Wigglers one from Amazon) includes everything you need to get going, including the worms themselves.

If you're squeamish about worms, fear not, you don't have to get too close. They're very self-contained and just mind their own business, turning your kitchen waste into the richest, crumbliest compost you can imagine, along with bonus concentrated liquid fertiliser that you draw off using a tap.

By following these expert-backed steps, you'll have dark, crumbly compost in no time.

Looking for more ways to make your garden eco-friendly? You can find lots of tips in our guides to organic gardening and eco-friendly gardens.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

A nicely laid out patio might catch your eye on a viewing, but it can just as easily be masking problems underneath. From drainage issues to root damage, to trees that pose a risk to the foundations, gardens hide plenty of red flags that don't always announce themselves on a quick walk around.

To avoid any expensive headaches down the line, we asked a range of garden and property experts what they'd look out for, and what's worth flagging before you commit to a purchase.

Trees and roots

A mature tree can be a garden's biggest selling point, but it can also be one of its biggest liabilities, so it's worth paying close attention to trees when viewing a house. Ashleigh Bradshaw, lawn expert at Hayter, says a leafless tree in winter can be deceptive: "The leafless tree that looks harmless in January is often the one blocking every scrap of afternoon light by June, so think about its trunk size and how close it sits to the house." After all, what you're judging on a viewing day may look very different from what you'll be living with once summer arrives.

But the potential problems go well beyond light and shade. A tree's root system, if left unchecked, can affect the very foundations a buyer is relying on.

Andrew Pemberton, senior manager of surveying at The Professional Snagging Company, says the level of risk depends on the species, soil and foundation design: "Willow, poplar, oak, elm and eucalyptus are classed by NHBC (National House Building Council) as high water-demand trees," with a much greater influence on moisture on shrinkable clay soils.

And it's not just mature trees that buyers need to consider. Even a young tree, "might look harmless," he adds, "but the risk can increase substantially as they establish over the next five or ten years." That's a particularly easy trap to fall into with newer plantings, where there's little visually to suggest that a small tree today could become a structural problem tomorrow.

Top tip: For anyone planning an extension or new home near existing trees, the potential risks are worth understanding before work begins. Buyers should familiarise themselves with the risks of building by trees, as well as how subsidence develops in the first place.

Drainage and standing water

Water is one of the most deceptive red flags a garden can hide because it depends entirely on when you happen to be looking. A garden that looks perfect on a dry day can tell a very different story after a wet week, and viewings rarely line up with the exact moment a problem chooses to materialise.

For Michael Wheat, founder of Ponds by Michael Wheat, the first clue usually comes from topography rather than the weather on the day. He looks at the level of the garden relative to the house first: "If the ground falls towards the property, or the garden sits lower than neighbouring land, I'd ask questions straight away because the water has to go somewhere."

Rushes, heavy moss or damp-loving plants are also a giveaway, but the key test is recovery time: "If one part of the garden stays saturated when everywhere else has dried out... I'd want to understand why." It's a distinction that's worth holding onto – a garden that's simply wet after rain is perfectly normal, but one that stays wet long after its neighbours have dried out is telling you something.

Ultimately, the gap between what a viewing shows and what actually happens across the seasons is what tends to trip buyers up. According to Peter Thum-Bonanno, co-founder of GetAgent, drainage is one of the two issues that most commonly surface at survey stage: "Buyers visit in dry weather and the garden looks fine, then a surveyor flags waterlogging or historic flooding."

His advice is simple: check the Environment Agency's flood risk tool before booking a viewing, "not after you fall in love with the property." It's a step that costs nothing and takes minutes, yet consistently gets skipped in the excitement of finding the right house.

Top tip: If a viewing does turn up standing water, it's worth understanding where drainage should go in a garden and whether a soakaway could help.

Invasive plants: knotweed, bamboo and ivy

Few plants strike fear into a buyer's heart quite like Japanese knotweed, and for good reason. What makes it particularly dangerous is how easily it disguises itself at exactly the time of year most viewings take place.

Some of the most expensive problems are easiest to miss once a plant has died back for winter. "Japanese knotweed is the major plant to be wary of," says Ashleigh Bradshaw. "It's severe enough to hold up a mortgage and easy to walk straight past in winter, because the plant dies back to a clump of hollow brown canes that look a bit like dead bamboo." In fact invasive bamboo poses a similar risk, since it "travels under fences and patios and removing it properly is a serious job." Either way, it's worth knowing what to look for, as both plants are far easier to spot once you recognise their winter disguise.

Even seasoned property professionals aren't immune, and it's a lesson Jonathan Rolande, founder of The National Association of Property Buyers learned the hard way. He speaks from experience, having bought a property in Wales with an undetected knotweed problem: "A mistake on my part – I trusted the surveyor too much! It took five years and thousands of pounds to remedy."

Top tip: If you already suspect you have it, read our guide to how to kill Japanese knotweed to understand your options.

Structural issues disguised as "cosmetic"

It's easy to write off a slightly wonky flower bed or a patchy patio as purely cosmetic, but some of the most costly red flags in a garden hide in plain sight, disguised as little more than an eyesore. Take Andrew Pemberton's example of a flowerbed sitting too high against the property: "It may look neat during a viewing, but if external ground levels compromise the damp protection built into the wall, water can splash or sit against areas that were designed to remain clear."

Andrew has seen this catch out buyers of new-builds in particular, where a fresh lawn can create a false sense of security: "This is particularly frustrating on a new home because it can be created simply by poor final landscaping. Buyers shouldn't assume a newly laid garden means the levels and drainage have been finished correctly." Anyone who suspects ground levels are the culprit should read our guide to damp proof courses, which explains exactly what to look for.

Patios and paths get much the same free pass, according to Andrew, because buyers are often drawn to how they look rather than how they're built: "These are frequently overlooked as buyers focus on their aesthetic, not their construction." His team checks whether paving falls away from the house, whether ground levels have been built up too high against walls, and whether drainage has been provided where water is likely to collect.

Retaining walls deserve the same scrutiny, since cracking, bulging or leaning indicates a lot more than a cosmetic defect. It's also worth checking who actually owns a retaining wall before factoring in repair costs. None of this is cheap to put right either, according to Andrew getting the sub-base and patio drainage wrong, "could cost between £3,000-£5,000," to fix.

Overgrown planting hides its own surprises too, and not always the kind a survey will catch. Jonathan Rolande has learned to treat dense, unkempt borders with suspicion: "Drainage is easy to hide in dry weather. Thick planting covers broken fences, and dumped rubbish."

His most striking discovery is a reminder that neglect can conceal something genuinely hazardous: "More than once I have discovered concealed debris from a long-removed shed or guttering that is made of asbestos and very expensive to clear."

A quick garden checklist

With so much to keep track of, it helps to have a simple sequence to work through rather than trying to remember every garden red flag at once. For a fuller walkthrough of what to check both inside and outside a property, see our house viewing checklist. For the garden specifically, here's where to start:

• Start at the house. Ground levels should sit below the damp-proof course, air bricks clear, with no moss, staining or marks on the walls
• Test the lawn. Push a heel in: spongy and sinking means thatch, barely giving means compaction
• Walk to the end of the garden, not just to the kitchen doors
• Look up as well as down. Trees, boundary and retaining walls, and anything that's shifted, and check behind sheds and into dense planting
• Check access, so you're not carrying a lawn mower through the kitchen

What to do if you spot a red flag

Finding an issue doesn't necessarily mean walking away from the purchase, but it should change your approach. Jonathan Rolande's advice is to raise concerns before exchange, and get the insurer to confirm in writing what's covered, "since insurers rarely pay for a fault that already existed, or one you could reasonably have spotted before you bought."

Michael Wheat agrees, adding that undoing someone else's mistakes rarely comes cheap: "You're not just paying to solve the problem, you're also paying to remove and reinstate what's already there."

As the experts make clear, a specialist report is often the difference between an educated guess and genuine negotiating power. For more on this, see these three survey findings that should make you think twice about a purchase and our guide to choosing the right home survey.

If boundaries are on your mind, it's worth knowing the fence rules and who's responsible for what. And if drainage is more of a concern, our guide to what a French drain is and whether you need one is a good next stop. Whatever you find, it's rarely worth skipping the professional check altogether, and here's why buying a house without a survey isn't a good idea.

If you love wildlife, these substantial climbers are one of the best things to plant in the garden. The wall of leafy greenery provides birds with shelter and nesting sites, in turn filling your garden with song. And many also offer birds berries, as well as producing a rich supply of nectar for pollinators (such as bees) when they flower.

Get one of these gorgeous climbers in the ground and look forward to it coating your garden walls with a verdant curtain that will be alive with birdsong in no time.

1. Star jasmine

• Height: 3-6m
• Spread: 6-10m
• Best for: Urban elegance

To create a smart wall of glossy evergreen leaves, star jasmine is a superb choice. In summer, starry cream flowers fill the air with a tea scent, and in winter the leaves take on red tints.

Trachelospermum jasminoides (available from Thompson & Morgan) requires a sheltered garden wall and a mild climate. T. asiaticum (also from Thompson & Morgan) is similar, but hardier, less vigorous, and more richly scented.

Being twining climbers, they require a frame of trellis ideas, or wires to climb. Plant in fertile, well-drained soil and water regularly in hot weather until established.

2. Ivy

• Height: 6m
• Spread: 6m
• Best for: Birds

For easy evergreen coverage, ivy is one of the best plants for covering garden walls and garden fences. Self-clinging, it doesn’t require any frame to clamber up, and it offers shelter and berries for birds, as well as nectar for bees.

They are best planted in the cool semi-shade of a north or east-facing wall, where they grow lush and glossy.

Persian ivies (such as ‘Sulphur Heart’) have attractive big leaves, as does Canary Island ivy (Hedera canariensis). Plant in well-drained neutral to alkaline soil.

3. Sausage vine

• Height: 6m
• Spread: 3m
• Best for: Spring flowers

Holboellia latifolia (syn. Stauntonia latifolia) doesn’t have the most elegant of names – broad-leaved sausage vine – but it’s a superb evergreen climbing plant for pergolas, fences and walls. The substantial, dense, glossy green leaves are paired with mauve, red-purple, or cream-lime spring flowers that smell of melon and jasmine, and edible sausage-shaped purple autumn fruit.

Plant in fertile, retentive, well-drained soil against a sheltered wall in sun. In cold areas, it is only semi-evergreen. Prune after flowering to keep its vigour in check.

4. Climbing hydrangea

• Height: 6-12m
• Spread: 2-3m
• Best for: Semi-shade

Pileostegia viburnoides will clothe a wall in semi-shade with glossy evergreen leaves and fleecy ivory flowers whose nectar makes them great plants for pollinators in late summer and early autumn.

Other self-clinging climbing hydrangeas to consider for a wall in semi-shade include Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris, which has huge lacy flowerheads during summer; it is hardy, but deciduous. H. seemannii is evergreen, but requires a sheltered wall in a mild area. They are all slow to establish, but live for years and are well worth the wait.

5. True jasmine

• Height: 3-12m
• Spread: 3m
• Best for: Scent

For romantics, this ancient climber beats fashionable star jasmine hands down: the heart-stopping scent of the starry white flowers hangs in the air on summer nights, and it is no surprise that it’s used by the perfume industry. In mild areas, it is evergreen and vigorous.

Jasminum officinale ‘Devon Cream’ (available at B&Q) has buttermilk flowers; J. officinale f. affine has large pink-tinted white blooms.

Grow jasmine in well-drained soil against a sheltered sunny backyard wall or front garden wall. Avoid hard pruning if possible. In cold areas, protect the base with horticultural fleece in winter.

6. Firethorn

• Height: 3m
• Spread: 3m
• Best for: Autumn colour

Pyracantha is a fantastic evergreen shrub for growing against walls and one of the best plants for wildlife gardens. It provides birds with shelter, as well as food when it is a mass of berries in autumn; and it offers bees nectar-rich ivory blossom during early summer

Saphyr Orange (available from Crocus) has blazing-orange berries and Saphyr Rouge (also from Crocus) has red berries. Plant against a wall in sun or semi-shade in well-drained, fertile soil. Prune after flowering and wear gloves and long sleeves because the thorny stems are very sharp!

7. Winter jasmine

• Height: 3m
• Spread: 3m
• Best for: Winter colour

Jasminum nudiflorum is a deciduous shrub with long, arching green stems that look great trained over a wall. From winter to early spring, it is covered in bright yellow flowers; unlike the flowers of true jasmine, they are not scented, but they inject much-needed cheer and colour under the bleak grey winter sky.

Allow it to tumble in a waterfall over the top of a wall or clip it (after flowering) against a wall, facade, or porch. It is happiest in fertile, well-drained soil in sheltered sun or semi-shade.

8. Mountain clematis

• Height: 3.5-9m
• Spread: 1-6m
• Best for: Cottage gardens

Clematis montana is a gorgeous, vigorous climber that fills the air with a vanilla-clove scent when its pink or white flowers bloom in early summer. It is deciduous, but when the bronze leaves fall, they reveal a dense, twiggy frame that will still cover the wall.

Blush pink ‘Mayleen’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) is enormous; ‘Miss Christine’ (white) is big; and ‘Van Gogh’ (cherry pink) is less vigorous.

For best results, plant them in well-drained, fertile soil in sun or semi-shade, but ensure the roots are shaded (for example by a shrub). Prune after flowering.

9. Passion flower

• Height: 10m
• Spread: 3.5m
• Best for: Exotic style

The fabulous blooms of passion flower are straight out of the jungle and make one of the best tropical plants. Their flowers are produced in abundance from early summer into autumn. Evergreen in warm climates, it will easily clad a large wall if given a frame (such as wires or trellis) to twine itself to.

The hardiest, Passiflora caerulea (available from Thompson & Morgan), still benefits from a sunny, sheltered wall. It has white and purple blooms and orange egg-shaped fruit. ‘Amethyst’ is not as hardy and has pale-purple flowers. Plant in moist, well-drained soil.

10. Pineapple broom

• Height: 4-5m
• Spread: 3-4m
• Best for: Sun

A joyous wall shrub for a sunny wall, Argyrocytisus battandieri (syn. Cytisus battandieri) produces enormous bright-yellow flowerheads that smell deliciously of pineapple. These are borne in summer above attractive green-grey leaves.

The more compact variety 'Yellow Tail’ has flower cones that reach 17cm long and attract bees. Hailing from the Atlas Mountains of Morocco, this drought-tolerant plant (which can be evergreen in mild areas) needs very well-drained soil and a sheltered sun-baked wall.

11. Camellia

• Height: 4m
• Spread: 3m
• Best for: Acid soil

Camellias are large shrubs with dark, glossy evergreen leaves and large red, pink, or white flowers in winter or spring. They are good screening plants, live for a long time and some types of camellias can be grown as wall shrubs – especially C. x williamsii, which is hardier than most and flowers well from an early age.

‘J.C. Williams’ (soft-pink) and ‘E.T.R. Carlyon’ (white, available from Thompson & Morgan) are upright, spreading Williamsii varieties that bloom in spring. Grow camellias in well-drained, humus-rich acid soil against a sheltered wall in semi-shade. Prune lightly after flowering, if necessary.

12. Roses

• Height: 3.5m
• Spread: 3m
• Best for: Summer flowers

The romantic, buxom blooms of climbing roses fill the air with scent on summer days. There are vigorous forms for tall walls and less rampant varieties of plants for covering walls for lower garden boundaries. All are deciduous, but over time the stems can be trained into an attractive pattern for winter interest. You can also plant your roses in pots in front of a garden wall to achieve a similar screening effect.

Étoile de Hollande’ (crimson-red) is a fabulous choice for a sunny wall, while ’Madame Alfred Carrière’ (pink-white, available from Thompson & Morgan) is perfect for a shadier spot. Provide trellis or wires to tie the rose to. Prune in mid-late winter to maintain health and flower power.

FAQs

What is the name for a plant that can grow up a wall?

Climbing plants scale walls. If you don’t want to attach trellis or wires to the wall for a climber to twine around or be tied to, it’s best to purchase a ‘self-clinging’ climber (such as ivy), which will attach itself well without any additional help.

How do you cover a brick wall with plants?

If you’re not choosing a self-clinging climber, add a frame for climbing plants to scale the brick wall. Wooden trellis can rot over time, so a tensioning system of wires is arguably better. The wires either need to tighten themselves as the plant grows or be easy for you to tighten (via turnbuckles, for instance).

Opt for plants that complement the colour of the brick too. For example, the climbing rose 'Madame Alfred Carrière’ has blush-white flowers that look good against red brick, and the rose 'Ghislaine de Féligonde’ has soft-apricot blooms that would suit pink brick.

To give your plant the best possible chance of thriving and covering your garden wall effectively, it's important to select one that suits your garden soil type, the planting spot and space available, as well as the general growing conditions. Make sure you read the planting information carefully before purchasing to avoid costly mistakes further down the line.

And if you are a fan of low-maintenance gardening make sure you go for a variety that won't require lots of ongoing upkeep.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Planting a tree with berries will provide birds with a place to roost and plenty to feast on, plus give you the pleasure of watching the birds in action too. Berry- and fruit-bearing trees also provide food for a range of insects and animals. Mice, hedgehogs, badgers, squirrels and foxes will all happily feed on them.

Whether you're searching for evergreen shrubs or trees with berries or a compact option for smaller plots, there are plenty to choose from. Varieties of tree like rowan, holly, spindle and hawthorn are especially good for attracting flocks of birds and the berries are gorgeous to look at too.

1. Wild cherry

In spring this is one of the best flowering trees as it's covered in white blossom to brighten up and beautify any garden. Then later in the year, the wild cherry (also known as the bird cherry) has lots of small, bright red cherries that are absolutely loved by birds of all varieties.

Autumn leaf colour includes spectacular shades of red, yellow and orange. The colour of the ripe fruit is quite variable on different trees, and can be yellow, scarlet or so dark red it almost looks black. The cherries are loved by blackbirds and thrushes, as well as badgers, squirrels and mice.

Wild cherry trees are quick growing, reaching 8m in 10 years. Young trees tend to be upright, but as the tree starts to mature it develops a more spreading habit.

Cherry trees are tolerant of most garden soil types, but need to be planted in full sun to encourage flowering and fruiting.

2. Crab apple

As one of the best trees for small gardens, versatile crab apple trees are so easy to grow you'll wonder why you never planted one before. They make a beautiful ornamental addition to any garden, with a dramatic display of flowers in spring and fabulous foliage in summer.

They're good pollinators too as they produce blossom for a long period of time. Crab apples also have heavy crops of fruit in autumn and winter that birds love.

They benefit from being planted in full sun. Planting them in a sheltered spot also helps them put greater resources into flowering.

The majority of crab apples grow into medium-sized trees, typically reaching an eventual height of about 3-4m tall.

3. Holly

Holly trees offer you the flexibility of choosing a large or small tree depending on the size of your outdoor space. As well as bigger trees, they come as smaller versions you can clip into small rounded shapes.

In winter, the holly tree is a reliable choice with its glossy green foliage and bright red berries. There are many different types of holly tree to choose from and the berries provide food for a range of birds. As it's evergreen, it can be one of the best trees for privacy too.

Hollies are easy to grow in sun or partial shade, and prefer moist but well-drained soil. The variegated varieties keep their colours better in full sun. They don’t need much pruning either. They can grow as tall as 15m but are generally around 8-12m tall.

4. Spindle

This small tree (also known as Euonymus europaeus) is a delight in the autumn and winter garden. It has large oval mid-green leaves that turn crimson in autumn, star-shaped green flowers in late spring, and masses of crimson-pink fruit in winter that split to reveal orange seeds.

The wood was traditionally used for making spindles, hence the name. It really comes into its own in winter gardens, when it's covered in clusters of gorgeous, orange-pink berries that remain long after the blazing scarlet leaves have fallen. It will grow to an eventual height of around 2.5-4m.

The spindle tree enjoys a position in full sun or partial shade, in any well-drained soil. It looks stunning in winter underplanted with early spring bulbs. Wildlife loves its leaves and fruit, especially robins, so it’s one of the best trees with berries if you want to give a boost to biodiversity in your garden.

5. Hawthorn

The glossy deep red berries of hawthorn are the star of the show in autumn and winter, while in spring it’s covered in a mass of flowers. The berries are popular with birds like starlings, finches, blue tits and thrushes, who love tucking in to them. When the trees grow bigger they also have wonderfully gnarled trunks.

Hawthorns are ideal for small gardens as they grow anything from 4.5-9m tall, which makes them the perfect size for urban spaces. They grow in any soil, in sun or partial shade, and need little maintenance.

They are a good choice if you're interested in sustainable gardens too as where there are hawthorns wildlife inevitably follows. Birds will hoover up the berries so they attract wildlife to your garden in addition to looking good.

For one of the best small trees with berries around, Crataegus orientalis is an especially ornate variety of hawthorn. It has a pleasing round-shaped crown and is laden with large orange haws.

6. Cotoneaster

As well as being a popular garden shrub there are larger varieties of cotoneaster that grow into trees. These form a rounded to wide-spreading head of slender branches with long, narrow, dark green leaves and prolific white flowers in spring, followed by red, orange or yellow berries that stay on the tree right through winter and are much-loved by wildlife.

Cotoneaster trees grow to a height of around 8m. Best planted in full sun and well-drained soil, they tolerate cooler and drier climates, and require very little attention once established.

7. Rowan

Rowans are one of the prettiest trees with berries. Also known as mountain ash and Sorbus aucuparia, rowans are easy-to-grow trees that do best on well-drained, fertile soil, and don’t like clay or waterlogged conditions. They prefer an open sunny site, but can handle some shade and generally aren’t that fussy.

Rowans grow to an eventual height of around 6m. The berries start to appear from July to November, depending on which variety you choose, and they last well into the winter months.

Blackbirds, thrushes and starlings love feasting on gorgeous rowan berries, making it a great way of attracting birds to your garden in winter.

8. Juniper

Juniper is a popular ornamental tree for its long-season interest, ability to grow in most regions, and carefree nature. With shapes ranging from ground-hugging bushes to much larger trees, there’s one to suit every garden.

Juniper berries are a food source for songbirds and other wildlife, keeping them sustained in winter. The plant’s dense branches shield birds from cold winds and protect their nesting sites.

Female plants will not fruit unless a male plant is nearby. Female cones develop a fleshy berry-like appearance, starting out green and maturing to blue, while male ones resemble miniature pine cones.

Tolerant of most soils, junipers prefer slightly acidic, organically rich soil with good drainage. They need little to no pruning to keep their natural shape. In early spring, cut out any dead branches, trim back wayward growth and lightly shape.

9. Winterberry

This deciduous tree is multi-stemmed, with an upright, rounded growth habit. It has clusters of greenish-white flowers in early summer and cherry-red berries from autumn through winter.

It’s actually a type of holly (Ilex verticillata) that’s loved by birds for its brilliant red berries.

Winterberry shrubs have leathery dark, green leaves that turn yellow and purple in autumn. They like growing in wet soil, prefer full sun or part shade.

Ilex verticillata is available from Gardening Express.

10. Elderberry

One of the best bird attracting plants, elderberry is a fantastic choice for your garden. This deciduous tree grows up to 4m tall depending on variety, and produces clumps of berries in late summer to early autumn, which act as a bird magnet.

The shrubby nature of elderberry foliage also makes it a suitable nesting spot for some birds. Due to its manageable size and ability to attract birds elderberry is a must if you're keen on boosting the wildlife in your garden.

Also known as sambucus, this beautiful shrub features long, arching branches. In early summer, it has clusters of flat white flowers that turn into the purple berries that birds love in autumn.

This tree is good if the soil in your garden tends to get waterlogged because it thrives in damp conditions.

FAQs

How do trees with berries benefit birds and wildlife?

Berries are an important food source for many birds in winter, especially when the ground is too frozen for them to hunt worms or snails, and there are few insects about to forage for.

If you can attract birds by planting trees with berries you will be doing your bit to help. "Some birds, like song and mistle thrushes, blackbirds, redwings and fieldfares, find most of their winter food from berries," say the experts at the RSPB.

Most berries are either red or black. This makes the berries easier for birds to find them. "Evergreens, and plants that produce berries when their leaves are still green, generally produce red berries, which show up well against a green background," explain the experts at the RSPB. "Black berries are thought to show up better against leaves that have turned yellow or brown."

What kind of tree has little red berries?

• Firethorn Also known as pyracantha, these red berries grow in such dense clusters that the tree can actually appear to be red when you see it from a distance. Pyracantha Saphyr Rouge ('Cadrou') is available from Crocus.
• Barberry These oval-shaped berries grow on thorny bushes and hang from the twigs like pretty ornaments.
• Holly One of the most popular decorative trees around, their small, bright red berries are synonymous with Christmas.
• Red elderberry The red coastal elderberry (Sambucus callicarpa) blooms in spring before producing small red berries from summer right through winter.

Trees with red berries are a common sight in autumn and winter and the perfect way to add colour, texture and interest to your garden during the colder months.

If you want to get prepared for the cooler weather ahead, our guide to getting your garden ready for winter is a great place to start.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

With such a wide range of heights, colours, and textures available, there are plenty of ways grasses can be used in landscaping ideas – no matter the size of your plot.

Whether you're looking to give a plain pathway a more magical feel, screen a seating space from view, or simply give your borders a boost, an ornamental grass or two can be a winning solution.

1. Uses grasses to create a natural screen for your seating space

One of the key benefits of many types of ornamental grasses is their height. Because of this, they add instant vertical interest and can come in handy if you're on the lookout for subtle garden screening ideas.

For instance, this roof terrace uses tall, contemporary planters to line the perimeter of the space. Not only does it add a soothing shot of greenery to an urban plot, but it also ups the sense of privacy, obscuring neighbouring windows from view.

It's the perfect backdrop for creating a tranquil slice of paradise in an inner-city garden. And, the soft rustle as they move in the breeze will only add to the sense of calm.

2. Add height and texture alongside paths

Garden paths are a must-have feature for most. Of course, they're practical – getting you from A to B – but they can also affect the overall experience of being in your plot. For example, winding pathways lined with tall, billowing grasses, like in this scheme above, will add a sense of intrigue and playfulness to the space.

We love how the variety of different heights and hues creates a breathtaking tapestry. And, of course, a look like this is great for encouraging wildlife to your garden, too.

3. Soften a modern scheme

Every patio needs some gorgeous paving ideas for a sturdy and beautiful base. But if you find your stretch of hard landscaping a little severe, an easy solution is to add soft grasses.

In this stunning scene, all different varieties are used to bring texture and cool, green tones to pared-back planters. Used on all sides, they cocoon the space, defining the perfect zone for entertaining. Opting for a chic grey colour scheme for the furniture adds to the on-trend look.

4. Mix grasses with blooms for prairie-style flowerbeds

Drought-tolerant plants are becoming more popular in garden design for several reasons. First, they're easy to maintain – which is good news for those of us with busy lives. And second, they're a practical and sustainable approach in response to climate change. Plus, the prairie-style look that can be achieved is nothing short of stunning.

Landscaping with grasses is therefore a great way to bring this trend into your own plot, as most will thrive without much water. Interspersed with blooms such as echinacea and kniphofia, you can create a gorgeous border or flowerbed that is sure to capture your attention all through summer and late into autumn.

5. Use grasses to zone spaces

As well as creating taller screens for privacy, ornamental grasses can also be used for more subtle garden divider ideas.

In the above scheme, Pennisetum alopecuroides 'Hameln' – otherwise known as fountain grass – creates an attractive divide between a lawn and an outdoor kitchen, while maintaining an open and airy feel.

What's more, this type of grass tends to hold its form throughout winter. We love how it's been used alongside hydrangeas for an interesting, textural display.

6. Surround a pond with grasses for a natural feel

Whatever their size, garden ponds are a beautiful, sensory feature to bring into your scheme. Adding plenty of ornamental grasses around the edges will help them blend into their surroundings and create a more naturalistic vibe. Such planting will also provide a safe space for frogs, newts, and other visiting wildlife.

If you have the space, adding a bridge, boulders, and even a waterfall will all add to the enchanting atmosphere – a great way to recreate a relaxing woodland setting right in your own garden.

Adding a destination point, such as this gazebo, is also a lovely finishing touch for sitting and admiring the view.

7. Opt for the unusual with black grasses

Black mondo grass, also known as Ophiopogon planiscapus, is ideal for modern garden schemes due to its striking appearance.

Use it to line patios or pathways, as seen here, for a unique look. Keep the surrounding colour scheme dark and moody, or opt for brights that will pop against the deep hue. And, as this plant is evergreen, it'll hold your interest all through the colder months, too.

8. Elevate a gravel garden

Gravel gardens and ornamental grasses are perfect partners and we love how they work together in this garden scheme. Note how a palette of purple tones has been used for a sense of harmony, while the odd splash of yellow – purple's complementary hue – keeps it feeling fresh and balanced.

We also like the organic form of planting, which loosely defines a path and seating area, creating a relaxed and immersive vibe. Spot the rosemary too, which will add a delicious fragrance to the scene.

9. Introduce different heights of grasses for different purposes

Grasses are so versatile that they can be used in different ways in the same plot. For instance, compact, tuft-like varieties are used as garden edging ideas in this space – defining the boundary of a paved zone from a modern water feature. Planting them spaciously in this way highlights their form and the cheery golden hue against the surrounding stone.

Beyond, a taller type of grass has been used to surround a sheltered space, drawing the eye upwards and making a more distinct feature of the pergola.

10. Create a contrast against hard landscaping features

In this garden design, wispy, elegant grasses have been added to the perennial bed, which instantly elevates it and offers a wilder feel. But we particularly love the contrast it provides against the smart built-in bench and garden wall nearby – it's the perfect balancer against such sleek and modern hardscaping.

FAQs

How do you group ornamental grasses in your landscaping?

If you're looking to use more than one variety of grass in your garden, it's important to group them together depending on their growing needs. For instance, Japanese forest grass and sedge plants both do well in dappled shade and moist garden soil types, while most stipa and miscanthus grasses like full sun.

Think about how the grasses will look when planted together too, by considering colours, heights, and textures. Opting for a varied mix will create a more dramatic impact. And, remember to plant taller varieties towards the back of borders so that you can appreciate the smaller types fully.

As shown in the looks above, landscaping with grasses can also be done to define zones, or elevate existing features such as paths. You can add them to planters, too. And the best part is, looking after them is incredibly simple: most need little water, pruning, or feeding, making them a perfect choice for a low-maintenance garden.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Choose long-lasting plants like winter-flowering pansies, cyclamen and heather mixed with interesting foliage varieties to make sure your displays have staying power right through the season. Whether you like structured and formal planting ideas or a more naturalistic style you will find fresh inspiration in our selection.

Window boxes can be a key element of your front garden ideas, so follow our expert suggestions to make sure you embrace seasonal planting and nail the look this autumn.

1. Choose gold and orange autumn colours

Bronzy oranges matched with pale yellow works well as a colour combination for both autumn garden planter ideas and window boxes. This bright and beautiful copper and bronze mix of burnt orange, apricot and pale lemon winter flowering pansies paired with sunny yellow primulas just sums up the mood for autumn.

The foliage combination adds texture and shape too, with heart-shaped lamium leaves and pale green feathery dwarf conifers acting as fillers in the centre of the display, while tendrils of trailing ivy complete the look. The joy of these is that you can keep them going for ages to offer structure and texture in your window box, simply switching in fresh colour as and when you need to freshen up your seasonal porch ideas.

Plants like pansies can be used both for spring and autumn containers to prolong your window box show, and will flower for months. Just remember to keep snipping off any faded flowers to keep the show going.

2. Opt for a classic white window box design

When combined with crisp green foliage white flowers offer a polished look for autumn window boxes. As autumn turns to winter they will add a bright gleam to your display, especially on darker days. Another plus is that they go with anything and will partner seamlessly with the exterior of your house.

One of the best plants for winter pots, beautiful cyclamen deliver for months on end. Choose a hardy variety called Cyclamen coum or Cyclamen hederifolium (available at Thompson & Morgan). Ready-grown plants are widely available and will instantly uplift window boxes.

Other white flowers to choose from that work well for your autumn window boxes include pansies, primulas, heather and hellebores. You can also layer in white bulbs to the mix, and these will pop up in spring. Good choices to include are crocuses (such as this 'Jeanne D'Arc' variety from Dobies), white muscari and paper whites.

3. Introduce shape and texture to your autumn window box

The garden trend for naturalistic looking planting extends to autumn window box ideas too. If you prefer a less structured look this is your chance to wild up your window boxes.

Opt for a combination of feathery grasses, purple ornamental cabbages and one or two dark blooms chosen from an autumnal colour palette for a perfect interpretation of the rich, deep tones of autumn. Try weaving lightweight twigs across the surface of the soil as a finishing touch.

Use button chrysanthemums in shades of bronze and copper as a filler, together with ivy at the heart of your display. Chrysanthemums are one of our top choices if you're looking for ideas on what to plant in September, and they're definitely back in fashion in a big way. An autumn classic, they come in shades of burnt orange, burgundy red and golden yellow. They can be grown in partial shade or full sun, and are the perfect filler plant for window boxes.

Popular in autumn gardens, flowering ornamental cabbage has lush frilled purple and green leaves for a show-stopping look that works in window boxes too. They love full sun but can dry out easily, so keep them well-watered even in cool weather.

Stunning red fountain grass has dark feathery foliage that adds a textural note to fall window box ideas. It's one of the best types of ornamental grass for your display as its height means it's a good 'thriller' plant.

4. Go for modern industrial-style window boxes

These compact ribbed garden planters are ideal if you're looking for something stylish to show off your plants. Choose galvanised metal if you're looking for an urban vibe and stack them up together to work the look.

If you're putting your window boxes in a sheltered spot think about planting them up with succulents or herbs to extend your growing season. If you choose a style like these ones that don't have a drainage hole you can easily transfer them indoors when bad weather threatens, especially as they're lightweight too.

Shop window box planters for autumn displays

5. Add a pumpkin or two to your window box for a seasonal update

If you're not sure what to put in your autumn window box, try a little bit of everything. An ivy-covered wreath anchors this scheme centre stage, while Phormium 'Baby Bronze' adds architectural detail with its pointy purple-bronze foliage making it a perfect specimen plant.

Ornamental peppers will add vibrant colour and interesting shapes to your container garden. Winter-fruiting Christmas cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) is another great window box plant. This small, upright, bushy, evergreen shrub has long-lasting red, yellow or orange berry-like fruit. Finally a trailing plant helps to soften the edges for that spiller effect.

This is a look that can easily be switched up for your outdoor Halloween decor by tucking small pumpkins into your existing display.

6. Extend summer with an autumn window box

If your summer window boxes and planters were a real success don't be too keen to tip the plants into the compost bin as there are lots that will happily keep going into autumn.

Pelargoniums are very robust and easy to care for, with a long flowering season that means they bloom well into autumn. "This makes them the ideal choice for planters and window boxes on balconies, patios, terraces and other areas close to the house where you want to enjoy your outdoor space for as long as possible," says Dr Suzanne Lux of Pelargonium for Europe.

Plant expert Sarah Raven is also a big fan of pelargoniums. "One of my favourites for window boxes is to use the pollinator-friendly pelargoniums with scented leaves, such as ‘Attar of Roses’, which has the most delicious rosy fragrance. The flowers are edible, and you can use the leaves for cordials and teas too." It flowers until the end of November too.

7. Match your autumn window box to your home's exterior

If you love the idea of personalising your autumn window box to match the exterior of your home you will be spoilt for choice. "External features such as window ledges, window frames and window boxes can all be painted with the same shade of masonry paint to create a uniform look," says Matthew Brown, technical consultant at Sadolin & Sandtex.

A smart look like this demands smart planting to go with it. Some of the best plants for window boxes include hebe and thyme as they can be clipped into naturally compact balls. Mix in some pale lemon primroses to add a touch of colour that's a perfect fit with a muted colour palette.

If you're working your way through your September gardening checklist be sure to check over your window boxes to see if they need a fresh coat of paint to better set off a new planting display.

8. Make an autumn planting display pop against black

Autumn window boxes can be hung from fences, walls and sheds too, so this is your opportunity to frame your best displays against a dramatic backdrop of colour. Black-painted garden fences make the perfect canvas to let your window box planting take centre stage.

Bringing black in as a colour for containers really gives you that lovely, modern feel, especially when paired with pink planting for a colour combo that pops every time.

9. Choose plants that will last through autumn and beyond

Choose a vibrant colour palette for your autumn window box if you like more impact from your planting. Deep tones of pink are a good option as it's easy to match up different varieties of plant in the same colourway, plus of course pink always makes an impact.

Easy going winter heather should be central to your ideas and the good news is it comes in a multitude of pink shades. With evergreen foliage and pretty, long-lasting bell-shaped flowers, heather offers an instant lift and is readily available in garden centres.

Try mixing heather with another window box classic like cyclamen, which also comes in a huge range of pink tones and is equally long lasting so it's a good fit.

10. Double the effect by layering up the look

For pops of jewel-bright velvety colour you can't beat a combination of violas and anemones. "I passionately recommend this winter and spring-flowering pair for any sheltered window box," says Sarah Raven. "The lovely viola will flower soon after planting and continues for month after month, joined by this new huge saucer-flowered anemone from late winter to early summer."

Choose a highly scented variety of viola that's winter and spring flowering. They are perfect for a window ledge, doorstep pots and other containers. Violas prefer cool, protected, partial shade, especially in summer months with moist, but free-draining soil or compost.

As a final suggestion, if you already have a herb garden in your window boxes consider leaving them to see how they do when it gets cooler. Chives, sage, thyme and rosemary will all hold up well even when it gets frosty.

Sarah Raven suggests planting mint in window boxes, as well as ornamental sage like Salvia viridis ‘Blue’, which lasts right into autumn in mild gardens. "Try Rosemary prostratus too, which has cascading, evergreen foliage or ‘Tuscan Blue’, which flowers in late winter and early spring and sometimes again in autumn. Whether for one large window box, or a succession of several over the front on the sunny side of your house, this combination would be perfectly on trend and beautiful."

If you want to plant other crops to see you through autumn and winter, our suggestions for vegetables to plant in September should guarantee you a plentiful harvest for the months ahead.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

But with so many sizes, shapes and materials to choose from, knowing which option is best for you, and where to buy it, can feel a little daunting.

That’s where we come in, rounding up six of our favourite retailers, along with our top shopping picks that will look discreet and stylish in any garden design.

Where to buy garden furniture covers

Unsure where to begin your search for garden furniture covers? Below, you'll find the best online and in-store retailers that stock them in an array of styles, prices, shapes and sizes.

• B&Q: From budget-friendly to premium options, have your pick of a range of garden furniture covers
• Amazon: Find hundreds of leading brands all in one place, with the convenience of next-day delivery
• Argos: Offers a great selection of covers, starting from just £8.10
• Robert Dyas: Browse through hundreds of garden furniture covers from this trusty British retailer
• Dunelm: The perfect place for finding affordable covers, with same-day click-and-collect available
• Garden Trading: Ideal for shoppers who don’t mind spending a little more for premium quality

B&Q

Whether you have awkward L-shaped sofas or garden swings as part of your patio ideas, B&Q offers hundreds of cover options to fit all types of furniture, starting at a very reasonable £6.99. Some click-and-collect options are also available if you can’t wait for delivery.

Amazon

Boasting quite literally thousands of covers, Amazon is king if you want as many options as possible, and need to beat the bad weather with fast delivery through Amazon Prime. There’s also the added bonus of free returns if you order the wrong size.

Argos

If your budget-friendly small garden ideas mean you only have a limited amount left for furniture protection as well, Argos has a mix of wallet-friendly (as well as more premium) options including popular brands like VonHaus. All are available online or in-store.

Robert Dyas

A trusty household brand for more than 150 years, Robert Dyas is the place to go for all things homeware – and has an impressive range of outdoor covers for many different types of furniture.

Dunelm

I could spend hours browsing the pages of Dunelm looking at everything from kitchen decor ideas to bedroom storage, and I wasn't disappointed by their impressive selection of outdoor furniture covers either. There's options to suit every budget, type and size.

Garden Trading

If you're looking to invest in new garden furniture in the end-of-summer sale, Garden Trading is the place to go, offering bespoke-fit covers to match, so everything fits perfectly and stays protected. The price tag might be a tad higher, but you can expect a premium feel that make them a worthwhile investment if you've splashed out on your garden landscaping ideas.

“After weeks of dry weather, it's easy to get out of the habit of thinking about protecting your garden furniture from the elements. But with storms and heavy rain on the way, now's the time to get back into that routine," concludes Kym Barlow, commercial director for outdoor furniture company, TDP.

"The biggest risk with a sudden change is that people get caught out. Furniture that's been sitting in the sun all summer can be more vulnerable to warping or staining once it's exposed to a heavy downpour, especially if water is left to pool on surfaces or cushions are left out to soak."

For more shopping advice, read our guide on where to buy outdoor garden storage and where to buy sheds.

Around the autumn equinox, you lose a bit of light as well as warmth. But pick the right crops and you can turn this to your advantage in your vegetable garden. Sow greens, oriental leaves, spring cabbage and Japanese onions now, and they will flourish in the combination of cooler temperatures and relatively warm ground levels. Quick-maturing crops like radishes that might have taken four weeks from seed to harvest in summer might take a few weeks longer – but it’s worth it. And slow-developing brassicas like spring cabbage relish every week of growth now to bulk up to their full potential and flavour.

With containers, cold frames and cloches at the ready, you can start off a stack of goodies now for healthy feasts far into the colder months.

1. Collard greens

Beloved of the ancient Greeks, these hearty leafy beasts taste better after a bit of exposure to frosts on the plot, so they are ideal for planting in September. Verdant, robust and reminiscent of cabbage, collards (Brassica oleracea) are packed with vitamins K, A and C, calcium and B6, and they help to lower cholesterol. Start now and make successive sowings to maximise cropping potential into the depths of winter.

These greens can be planted in the ground and in raised beds as well as containers, but bear in mind that they need a fair bit of room for bulking up. Plant in full sun or partial shade in moist, rich, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic pH (6.5). Space 45-60cm apart, or thin accordingly. An 8cm mulch will keep the ground moist and prevent weeds.

As long as these leafy greens receive a regular supply of moisture, they are ready for harvesting 65-75 days after sowing/planting. If they have been touched by frost, young leaves taste sweeter and work well steamed or braised. Try glossy ‘Green Glaze’, prolific ‘Flash’, and tender ‘Champion’.

2. Japanese onions

If you haven’t grown Japanese onions before, you’re in for a treat. These hardy overwintering varieties, also known simply as autumn planting onions, can grow outside over the cooler months and deliver crunchy goodness come spring. What makes them so perfect for planting in September is that they need less light than other onions, so the shorter days won’t faze them.

They are also excellent options for starting in September thanks to their tolerance of the cooler climes. As Chris Bonnett of GardeningExpress.co.uk points out: "Onions are tough enough to withstand the cold weather throughout the winter. Just keep an eye on them, and if the conditions get too frosty, you can always cover them with a fleece to be on the safe side."

If you’re stuck on what variety to choose, ‘Senshyu Yellow’ is a reliable, heavy yielding globe variety that can survive temperatures down to -18°C. ‘Toughball’ (available from Amazon) has good tolerance to botrytis and downy mildew, which you need for an overwintering type. Then there’s the shiny red-skinned ‘Electric’, (available from Crocus) which keeps for up to four weeks from harvest. Plus, there's ‘Troy’ and ‘Radar’, (also from Crocus) which have excellent bolt resistance.

3. Baby turnips

Turnips are one of the fastest-growing vegetables to plant in September. These crunchy wonders do best in cool, moist conditions. "If planted now, they take around six weeks until they’re ready to harvest. Perfect – and just in time for winter," says Chris Bonnett.

Sow seeds thinly in shallow drills, 1cm deep, with rows 30cm apart. Thin out seedlings until 20cm apart for baby roots. Water regularly, or roots won’t taste as nice or grow sufficiently. Dry conditions can cause plants to bolt, which stops roots growing. Then just make sure you follow our tips on how to get rid of weeds to ensure they don't appear and encroach on your growing turnips.

Just keep the soil lightly moist, and your baby roots will be healthy and yummy. Try 'Tokyo Cross', 'White Lady', 'Purple Top Milan' (available from Dobies) and 'Hakurei'.

4. Arugula (rocket)

Arugula (or rocket) is highly adaptable to a cool season of cultivation. Easily sown from seed, this leafy annual cranks up the heat with tasty crops that can be harvested four weeks after sowing. Its fast maturity makes it amongst the best vegetables for September planting – and successive sowing ensures harvests far into winter.

As gardening expert Lucy Chamberlain explains, the still-warm days of autumn are perfect for rapid germination. "Just sow straight into the greenhouse border, or into modules in a propagator to transplant to the border, trays or growing bags in October," says Lucy.

It prefers full sun or partial shade with well-drained soil (pH 6-7). Once you have thinned seedlings to 10-15cm apart, these plants just need regular watering due to their shallow root systems.

Depending on the varieties, you can harvest as quickly as 40 days after sowing (four-seven weeks): young, tender leaves are best. Just leave two thirds of each plant intact for multiple harvests. Try red-veined 'Dragon's Fire', heirloom ‘Slow Bolt’ and 'Scorpion' (available from Dobies) for something with a bit of extra kick.

5. Wok broc

Wok broc (aka Chinese broccoli) is a great vegetable to plant in September. This exotic-sounding crop, also known as kai lan, is a bit like conventional sprouting broccoli. It’s fast-growing, hard-working and packed with antioxidants and vitamin C.

Sow directly into moist, weed-free soil in an open, sunny site. Drop the seeds into a 2.5cm deep trench, or scatter across the surface of large pots. Thin to 30cm apart when seedlings are large enough to handle. Water well and make sure the growing area remains weed-free.

Because this crop is fast-growing, you can harvest stems and leaves six to eight weeks after sowing. Remove a few centimetres of the stems when the flowers appear. We recommend you leave a few flowers on the plant, though – they are great for pollinators in an eco-friendly garden.

6. Mustard leaves

Mustard leaves are some of the most impactful vegetables to plant in September as they bulk up quickly from seed, make the most of space in a small garden or veg patch and thrive in damp conditions. And if you sow every three weeks, they will supply you with tender pickings all winter.

"Simply sow directly into moist soil (pH 6-7). As temperatures fall, cover with a cloche, which prevents foliage turning leathery in colder weather," says Lucy. Alternatively, grow in large shallow garden planters.

As seedlings develop, thin to 8cm apart, and water well. As long as you plant in a nutrient-rich soil, you shouldn’t need to add any liquid feed. Just keep an eye on weeds and maintain cool temperatures; exposure to a little frost is tolerated and can soften and sweeten flavours.

Harvest mustard (Brassica juncea) 45-55 days after sowing. Either cut whole or pick outer leaves as baby greens to encourage further growth in a cut-and-come-again style. Mustard plants can also be grown for their peppery seeds if you leave one to flower.

Distinctive breeds include crinkly ‘Red Giant’ (available from Dobies) and pretty ‘Osaka Purple’.

7.  Spinach

If you want to grow spinach in September, choose a hardy cultivar and select a sunny spot, and you can reap the rewards well into winter. As Chris Bonnett points out, "If you harvest regularly, it may even last until early spring."

Direct-sow in a drill 2.5cm deep, water and cover lightly with soil. Thin to 10-15cm apart, then just keep well watered. You can also sow in large containers.

Six to 10 weeks later, harvest every alternate plant. Cut back to just above the base to encourage more leaves. Winter cultivars may need protection from October; cover with cloches and cold frames and protect with straw.

Grow autumn-sown varieties which have thicker leaves and are less inclined to bolt. Our favourite is ‘Mikado’, an F1 spinach (available from Thompson & Morgan). It produces excellent yields from multiple side-shoots. ‘Violin’ and ‘Amazon’ (available from Amazon) have strong resistance to bolting, while ‘Apollo’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) and ‘Palco’ (from Dobies) are resistant to downy mildew.

8. Coriander

Coriander can be started from seeds in pots. Alternatively, sow direct and protect seedlings under cloches in well-drained soil.

Sow thinly in the ground or multi-celled trays or pots and cover lightly. Germination takes 7 to 20 days. Keep sowing every two weeks for a constant supply. Make direct sowings 1cm deep in rows 30cm apart. Keep moist, but don’t overwater and weed regularly. Coriander can be harvested at 10 to 15cm tall and used on a cut-and-come-again basis.

For an easygoing, fast-growing coriander, try British-bred ‘Calypso’, (available from Thompson & Morgan), finely cut ‘Confetti’ (from Suttons) or vigorous ‘Leafy Leisure’. Or opt for a bolt-resistant variety such as ‘Slowbolt’ (from Dobies).

9. Pak choi

Plump, nutritious and fast-growing, pak choi is one of the essential vegetables to plant in September. It is well suited to shorter autumn days and its fat leaves make the most of what natural light is available. "You may not get massive rosettes, but a short, 3ft row will provide ample yield," says Lucy Chamberlain. "Sow directly outside into moist soil. As temperatures fade later in the month, cover the rows with a cloche, which will also prevent the foliage turning leathery," she adds.

The trick when you grow pak choi is to avoid root disturbance and sow in situ. Plant four seeds at 30cm spacing, then thin to the strongest seedling. Keep well watered to avoid bolting.

Great varieties include glossy 'Tatsoi Supi', crisp 'Joy Choi' and pretty 'Pak Choi Red'.

10. Pea shoots

Delicate and tender yet bursting with flavour and nutrients, pea shoots are a top crop to start now and shoots are ready in weeks. Content in a cold frame or greenhouse, they are quick to grow.

Grow outdoors in fertile, well-drained soil, sowing seeds an 2-3cm apart. It’s also possible to cultivate pea shoots in containers in a greenhouse or tunnel. If you use containers, make them big; grow bags and larger trays are ideal. Place in a well-lit spot but avoid direct sunlight, and keep moist. Harvest with scissors an inch above compost level when plants are 15cm tall. Cut in clumps, allowing a reasonable amount of the plant to regrow.

Top varieties include compact ‘Meteor’ and prolific ‘Feltham First’. We also recommend ‘Twinkle’ for downy mildew tolerance. And for a crunchy nutrient boost, ‘Anubis’ (available from Dobies) produces shoots in three weeks, and you can enjoy a second picking a few weeks later.

11. Radishes

September is your last chance this year for growing radishes, so take advantage of this final push for crunchy croppers through autumn.

Direct sow in the ground or sow in containers. If sowing in the ground, make short drills 15cm apart and sow 1cm deep. Sow summer radish seeds 2.5cm apart, and winter varieties 15cm apart. And keep the soil moist. As radishes are fast growers, try interplanting some between slower-growing veg like potatoes. You can harvest four weeks from sowing: these veggies are best eaten young.

Great varieties to try include sweet ‘Watermelon’ with its bright magenta flesh and peppery ‘China Rose’ (available from Dobies), which is cold-tolerant and can be left in the ground over winter. Not forgetting bold purple ‘Felicia’ (from Thompson & Morgan) with its slender roots, and ‘Rainbow Mix’, a colourful crunchy blend (from Suttons).

12. Spring cabbage

Tasty, tender, nourishing and bulging with goodies like vitamin C, spring cabbage is a reliable staple for the kitchen garden – and September is the key time to start off crops for next year. Time to overwinter is crucial in order to produce those bulky heads.

Pick an open, sunny or semi-shaded spot with an alkaline soil type. Start some off both in modular trays and direct in the ground using a seed bed, to hedge your bets. Once planted out, give plants a soak every eight to 10 days. As you see heads expand, water generously to improve bulk. You can pull up some crops as greens when the leaves are tender. Four to six months later, the main heads should be ready to harvest. Cut through the stem with a sharp knife just above ground level. For a bonus crop, cut a cross in the stump. You’ll get several small cabbages a few weeks later.

Great varieties include tender sweetheart ‘Wheelers Imperial’ (available from Suttons). Then there’s ‘Duncan’, with its dark upright leaves. ‘April’ (from Thompson & Morgan) is an early spring variety with compact heads.

Another good September gardening job is to order new fruit bushes for planting in November to March. Organic expert Bob Flowerdew recommends buying a blackcurrant bush.

To boost your returns, take a few cuttings from the main bush and root them in situ. Other options include red/white currants and gooseberries. Blackcurrants are also a good choice if you're interested in growing fruit in pots and containers.

For one final task – don't forget about the key plants to prune in September before it's too late.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Top of your ‘what to plant in September’ list should be spring bulbs, as they start being available this month and it’s good to buy them early before the best ones sell out. They are an easy and versatile way of adding colour to the garden, and happy to grow in borders, rock gardens, containers, and even in your lawn.

But it's not all about bulbs – there are lots of other lovely options for planting this month, too. The round-up below has plenty of tips on what to plant when, so you can prepare a bloom-filled garden design for next year.

1. Nectaroscordum

One of my favourite alliums for garden edging is Nectaroscordum siculum or Sicilian honey garlic.

Unlike most members of the onion family that produce circular heads of purple or white flowers, this allium opens up into umbrellas of pale cream blooms that are flushed with pink and have green tips.

Growing to almost 1.2m in ideal situations, they continue to delight when flowers fade, producing arrow-head seed pods that grow upright from the tall, straight stem.

Plant the bulbs in free-draining soil in a sunny spot that has been enriched with well-rotted compost or farmyard manure. Set them at two to three times their own depth and a bulb’s width apart, ideally in clusters of odd numbers because even numbers of plants can look too regimented.

Firm the soil down gently over the top of the bulbs and water well and they should flower next spring.

Top tip: Nectaroscordum siculum can also be grown from seed but they will take around six years to flower.

2. Red hot pokers

For a bit of late summer heat, add some red hot pokers to your borders. Though traditionally tall, dwarf varieties look lovely planted towards the front of your beds.

Also called kniphofias, these drought-tolerant plants have strap-like leaves and tall spires of glowing red florets, though they are also widely available in yellow and cream.

To plant, dig a hole that’s as deep as, but slightly wider than the plant’s root ball, and fork in some well-rotted organic matter.

Stand the plant in water for around 30 minutes to saturate the root ball, then gently slide it from the pot and use your thumbs to loosen any roots that are constricted or circling the pot.

Then, set the red hot poker in the hole, and infill around the roots with soil and compost, firming it down as you go to knock out air pockets. Water well and mulch the root area with compost or manure to retain moisture.

Top tip: If you are planting in clay soil, fork up the sides of the planting hole to improve drainage so the roots don’t drown in an impermeable ‘bucket’ of water.

3. Sedum

Sedum, or stonecrop, are the perfect flower for autumn colour and also provide essential late nectar for foraging bees and butterflies, making it a great choice for eco-friendly gardens.

Also known as ice plants, they have fleshy leaves in shades of green and purple and spreading, flat clumps of flowers in various shades of pink.

Perfect plants for a low-maintenance garden border, they like a sunny spot and are one of the best drought-resistant plants, though young plants do need protection from slugs and snails. I find that a ring of wool deterrent pellets such as Slug Gone (available from Amazon) around plants keeps the pests at bay and also works as a mulch, keeping moisture in the soil.

Plant stonecrop at the front of a border or in containers of multipurpose compost with added grit to improve drainage.

Top tip: The Chelsea chop, when you remove one stem in three, will keep sedum plants neat and long-flowering through summer, and their faded flowerheads are attractive enough to leave attached in the fall.

4. Iris reticulata 

Iris reticulata are early-blooming spring flowers, grown from bulbs in a sunny spot with rich, free-draining soil.

A dwarf variety, their flowers are traditionally violet with yellow markings. However, newer varieties such as ‘George’ have striking pinky-purple petals while ‘Natascha’ has blue petals that are so pale they almost look white.

Iris reticulata, or reticulate irises, originally came from dry areas of Europe and work well at the front of borders as well as in pots. They are also worth considering as plants for rockeries.

Top tip: Plant the bulbs in autumn for spring flowers or if you can’t wait, buy ready-to-flower plants in late winter for an instant hit of colour.

5. Verbascum

If you’re looking to add height to a border, look no further than verbascum varieties, stately perennial or biennial plants with spires of clustered flowers in all shades from deep purple to creamy yellow.

They like neutral to alkaline soil that drains well and look wonderful as part of cottage garden planting schemes, but will also fit in well with more contemporary borders. Try them with a range of ornamental grasses and bright hardy annuals such as poppies and cornflowers.

Verbascums (available from Thompson & Morgan) enjoy sun but will also thrive in partial shade and are perfect additions if you are creating a wildlife patch as they attract lots of beneficial pollinators.

However, they are susceptible to attacks by mullein moth caterpillars – yellow, black, and white-striped grubs that can do serious damage to your plants. The best defence is to pick them off and add them to the bird table.

Top tip: Verbascum flower early in the summer. If you cut back their flowered stems you should be rewarded with a second flush of blooms later in the summer.

6. Chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums, also known as ‘chrysanths’ and ‘mums’ were all the rage for a while, then fell out of favour and gained a reputation for being a bit boring and fuddy-duddy.

Now they are back in vogue and a top garden trend, so more people are enjoying the benefits of growing them. It's easy to see why too. Easy-going and with a wide range of colours, flower sizes, and heights, they are the slightly less flashy cousin of the dahlia and just as beautiful.

Although most chrysanthemums are bought as rooted cuttings and small plants in spring, garden centres and online suppliers (such as Gardening Express) will have lots of fantastic, bright bedding varieties in stock now, making them an easy addition to your list of what to plant in September.

These are usually dwarf plants that form clumps of gem-shade flowers in pinks, reds, russets, and oranges. They will flower long into the winter and again next spring.

Top tip: Deadheading flowers regularly will keep the blooms coming and the plants in a neat shape.

7. Biennial seedlings

If you sowed a selection of biennials in spring and summer, the seedlings should be ready to move to their final growing place.

Biennials are plants that are sowed year and flower the next, and they include foxgloves (available at Dobies), wallflowers (available at Suttons), and honesty (available at Suttons).

Many of these plants will happily self-seed around the parent plant so if you are already growing them you may find seedlings springing up in unexpected (and unwanted) spots in your garden.

Carefully dig them up, keeping soil around the roots, and plant them where you wish, at the same depth as they were growing before. Keep them well-watered.

Alternatively, pot them up in peat-free compost and overwinter them in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse. Next spring, when the soil warms up, you can plant them out where you want.

Top tip: If pink and white honesty has self-seeded, either leave it where it is or add it to the compost heap if you don't want it. These plants have long, thick tap roots and don’t transplant well.

8. Cyclamen

With their jewel-coloured flowers and interestingly patterned leaves, jaunty little cyclamen are an excellent choice for what to plant in September.

As great shade-loving plants, they seem to glow out of the gloom, and their corms will multiply over the years. They also boost their numbers by self-seeding.

The best outdoor varieties are Cyclamen coum (available at Thompson & Morgan), which have green leaves with white streaks and pretty little flowers in shades of pink, red, and white, and Cyclamen hederifolium (available at Suttons), with their pink and white flowers and leaves patterned like ivy.

Both varieties thrive in humus-rich soil and are lovely under trees and shrubs.

Top tip: After flowering, cyclamen seedpods are held on curled stems that slowly unwind as they ripen, lowering the precious seeds down to the soil.

9. Dierama

If you have the patience, this month is a good time to sow the seeds of Dierama pulcherrimum, or angel's fishing rods.

You need to be patient because the plants can take up to five years to reach flowering maturity, but the end result is delicate and beautiful plants with thin, strap-like leaves and gracefully drooping skeins of bells – hence their name – in shades of deep pinks and mauves.

If you are already growing the plant, collect the seeds as soon as they are ripe. When you sow, scatter seeds thinly on the surface of a tray of seed compost and don't cover with more compost or vermiculite as light is needed for germination.

Prick out the seedlings when large enough and grow on until they reach a size that will cope with being planted out somewhere sunny with free-draining soil.

Although dierama look wonderful growing among ornamental grasses close to water, the corms that develop from their seeds as they mature are prone to rotting and need a dry site.

Top tip: Dierama will grow in containers, but are much happier in the soil. In winter, mulch corms with well-rotted compost or manure if very cold weather is forecast.

10. Violas

Violas are a spring bedding stalwart. Smaller than pansies, they are less likely to have their petals damaged by winter weather and will happily hunker down and sit out the worst of the weather before springing back to life when conditions improve.

There are many varieties to choose from if you're thinking about what to sow in September, from the purple and yellow old-fashioned favourite ‘Johnny Jump Up’ (available on Amazon) to the multi-coloured ‘Pink Halo' (available from Gardener's Dream).

Sow the seeds in a tray of dampened seed compost, cover with a little more compost and germinate on a warm, light windowsill. Prick out seedlings when they are large enough to handle and pot them on in peat-free compost.

Harden off plants in spring and plant them out when the weather warms.

Top tip: Violas and pansies are prone to a fungal disease called leaf spot, which causes oily dark patches to appear on the leaves, and weakens the plants. Avoid it by planting homegrown plants in areas of the garden where violas and pansies have not grown before.

11. Poached egg plants

Easy to grow and with sunny faces, poached egg plants (Limnanthes douglasii) are the cheeky, cheerful chappies of the spring and summer garden.

Low-growing, with vibrant green leaves and white flowers with yellow centres, they self-seed with ease and are ideal for the front of borders, as ground cover, and as path edging plants.

They like full sun and are hardy, so sow them now in soil that has been cleared of weeds and stones, raked until it is fine and crumbly, and watered.

Scatter the seeds thinly, cover them with a little more soil and label the site so you don’t accidentally disturb them. It’s also worth sprinkling some pepper dust over the top to keep off cats and pests.

The seeds will spend winter in the soil and start to germinate when the weather warms up next spring, and will flower all summer and into the fall.

Top tips: Poached egg plants are popular with pollinators as well as insects that prey on garden pests such as aphids, so use them as a companion planting aid and sow a few seeds around your fruit and veg patch.

12. California poppies

California poppies, also known as Eschscholzia californica, are cheery annuals that spread pops of colour wherever they are sown.

Hailing from – you guessed it – California, where they are the State Flower, their orange variant is the most commonly seen, though they also come in shades of brilliant red, yellow and cool cream.

Glossy flowers ride high above soft ferny leaves, and their furled petals open as the sun passes over, following it on its daily course.

Sow now in well-prepared soil and look forward to long-lasting colour well into autumn. The great thing about these flowers is they don’t mind poor soil, as long as they get lots of sun, so they are perfect for dry areas of the garden.

13. Malope Trifida 'Vulcan'