There are only a handful of materials and finishes for a home that bring with them a sense of the past, bags of character and plenty of fresh, modern appeal – and terrazzo is one of them.

With a bathroom and kitchen remodel in the pipeline, I have already begun thinking about surface finishes – walls, types of flooring, worktops and so on. The uninspiring white wall tiles in the bathroom really don't do anything for the space, while the blue and white patterned floor tiles are beginning to look a little dated. And don't even get me started on the battered wooden kitchen work surfaces.

What I want from the new bathrooms and kitchen are not just finishes that are hardwearing, easy-to-clean and low-maintenance, but also a visual statement – which is why I'm set on terrazzo. I asked the experts to tell me everything I need to know about this material before I make my final choices.

What is terrazzo?

Despite having its roots in 16th Century Italy, it isn't until people start looking for new kitchen or bathroom flooring that they tend to start researching what terrazzo is. The name comes from the Latin work 'terra', meaning ground, and the material was originally made using stone and marble off-cuts, set into cement or lime.

These days, the manufacturing techniques, as well as the materials that go into making terrazzo, have changed a little, as Mubeen Patel, MD of Terrazzo Worktop, explains.

"Terrazzo is a composite. Chips of marble, quartz, granite or glass are set into a binder and then ground back and polished so the chips sit flush. The speckled look is just the cross section of all those chips. The binder is either cement- or resin-based, and that matters more than the look does. It's this that decides where you can use it, and how much looking after it needs."

"It has this natural confetti effect that feels playful, but still grown-up enough for a proper floor or surface," adds Grazzie Wilson, head of creative at Ca’ Pietra. "Marble terrazzo is especially interesting because it gives you the beauty of marble in a much more broken-up, usable way; you still get the colour, veining and richness, but it feels less formal than a full marble slab."

Are there different types of terrazzo?

Over the years, both the materials used to make terrazzo, as well as the formats it is available in, and the way it is installed have all evolved.

Mubeen Patel explains that there are three main types of terrazzo available today. "Poured in-situ terrazzo is the traditional method, laid wet then machine ground and polished. This gives a seamless finish, but is a specialist job and definitely not cheap.

"Next are terrazzo blocks or tiles, which are precast and laid like any other tile. This is the option most homeowners use on their floors," continues Mubeen. "Lastly is terrazzo-effect porcelain, which isn't real terrazzo – it's more like a printed tile. The good ones look the part for a fraction of the price, and I'll happily point someone in that direction if they want a floor on a tight budget, even though we sell the real thing."

"I would usually steer people towards terrazzo tiles or terrazzo-effect porcelain rather than a poured floor, unless they are doing a much bigger project," agrees Grazzie Wilson. "Tile format makes it much easier to use in real houses, whether that is across a hallway, bathroom, cloakroom, kitchen or utility room, and it also means you can bring it onto walls, kitchen splashbacks, shower areas and vanity spaces without it becoming a huge undertaking. It is one of those materials that works just as well as the main floor as it does in a smaller hit."

Shop terrazzo-effect tiles

What areas of the home does terrazzo perform best in?

While I know I want terrazzo on my bathroom floors, I am keen to find out where else it works well.

"You can really put it anywhere – it's hardwearing, which is why you'll often find it in public buildings such as airports and town halls," explains Mubeen Patel. "Because of its robustness it can be used in hallways, for bathroom floors, kitchen worktops and splashbacks – increasingly it is also being used for kitchen islands with waterfall edges as a feature too.

"Cement-based terrazzo suits floors well and period or outdoor settings," he continues. "For worktops we nearly always go resin, as it's denser, less porous and copes better with a working kitchen."

Choosing pattern and colours

While I love the idea of terrazzo floors, worktops and splashbacks, I am aware that its relatively busy pattern could appear overwhelming if I over-use it.

"The thing to watch is scale," says Grazzie Wilson. "A fine fleck will sit back and feel almost neutral, whereas a larger chip gives you much more personality. That is where the choice becomes quite fun, because terrazzo can be soft and creamy, bold and graphic, colourful, earthy, or much more stone-like depending on the base colour and the aggregate used.

"The trend now is definitely moving away from cold grey terrazzo and into warmer, softer versions," she adds. "Think creamy bases, clay tones, pinks, greens and bigger marble fragments that feel much more at home in kitchens and bathrooms."

Mubeen Patel agrees that warmer shades of terrazzo are the way to go right now in terms of interior design trends. "Sand bases with terracotta, ochre and soft pink chips – and definitely matt finishes over high gloss are popular. We're seeing more terrazzo on walls as well.

"My personal opinion is that the big chunky colourful stuff that you see on Instagram looks great in a photo, but it ages badly and, eventually, will look dated," he warns. "A worktop or floor is something you live with for fifteen or twenty years, so nine times out of ten I steer people towards the more tonal, subtle end of the scale."

Is terrazzo easy to maintain and clean?

One of the things that bugs me most about our current kitchen worktops and bathroom tiling is how needy they are in terms of maintenance. I'm really keen that this time around the finishes we choose require a more hands-off approach.

Grazzie Wilson explains what to expect from terrazzo.

"In terms of practicality, real terrazzo needs respect. A terrazzo-effect porcelain tile is the easier everyday option, particularly in bathrooms and kitchens, because it is simple to clean, less precious around water and far more forgiving for busy homes. Day-to-day, you want to keep cleaning gentle rather than throwing anything too acidic at it, especially with real marble terrazzo, but looked after properly, it is a surface that can last beautifully."

"Use a warm soapy water or a pH neutral cleaner," advises Mubeen Patel. "Keep acidic stuff off it – lemon, vinegar, limescale removers, especially on cement which is more porous and can etch. As with stone flooring, cement also needs resealing now and then. Resin is more forgiving."

This Asevi Concentrated Floor Cleaner Liquid from Amazon is pH neutral and suitable for delicate surfaces.

How much does terrazzo cost?

One of the things that worries me most about terrazzo flooring is the cost. Poured terrazzo is definitely one of the more expensive options, with prices coming in at at least £250-£300/m², professionally installed and finished. Thankfully, the bathrooms in my home aren't huge which takes the edge off those figures a little.

However, if you were to opt for terrazzo tiles (real, not 'terrazzo-effect'), costs would be less, albeit still with a starting price of at least £100/m².

If you opt for tiles, find out how to tile a bathroom floor if you are considering taking a DIY approach towards fitting. But if youare considering a poured version – don't.

"It has to be laid properly, by someone who knows what they are doing, and it may need sealing depending on the type," explains Grazzie Wilson. "I would not make it a first-time DIY project, especially on a floor or in a wet area."

What are the lookalike terrazzo alternatives?

As explained, porcelain terrazzo-effect tiles are one option, and come with lower costs and less maintenance.

“For anyone who loves the terrazzo look but wants the simplest route into it, terrazzo-effect porcelain is a very sensible choice," advises Grazzie Wilson. "It gives you that lovely flecked, marble-chip appearance, but in a material that is much easier to live with day-to-day. You don't have the same worries around sealing, staining or specialist upkeep. That is exactly why we are seeing so much appetite for it now. People want surfaces with character, but they also want to be able to spill toothpaste, muddy water or a glass of wine without feeling like they have ruined the room."

Another option well worth considering, according to Sarah Escott, design manager at Amtico Flooring, is LVT flooring. "While traditional terrazzo tiles can be cold underfoot and susceptible to cracking, an LVT terrazzo floor removes any potential wear and tear risks. It is warm and comfortable underfoot, splash-resistant and low maintenance."

FAQs

Can you lay terrazzo flooring over underfloor heating?

I am really keen to have underfloor heating in our new bathrooms and the great news is that terrazzo flooring works brilliantly with both wet and electric systems.

Porcelain floor tiles also work well with underfloor heating so, if you decide to take the lookalike route, it'll still be fine.

It is always well worth checking with your supplier that your chosen product is fully suitable with UFH, and ask about any specialist installation techniques that might be required.

Is terrazzo flooring an eco-friendly option?

If you are keen to install eco flooring, terrazzo is one of the best options around – after all, it was originally developed as a way of making use of stone off-cuts that would otherwise have gone to waste.

“There is a good sustainability conversation around terrazzo, because it has always had this clever way of making use of smaller pieces of stone and marble that might otherwise be wasted," explains Grazzie Wilson.

"That does not mean every terrazzo is automatically sustainable, as it still depends on the materials, the base and how it is made, but as a design idea it is about celebrating fragments rather than hiding them," adds Grazzie. "I think that is part of why people are warming to it again; it has character, but it also has a sense of resourcefulness."

If you are considering poured terrazzo as a way of achieving a seamless finish, you might also like to look into polished concrete – it works well for both flooring and worktops and is ideal for anyone after a modern, minimalist look. Or, for a completely seamless and luxury look in bathrooms, you could also consider micro-cement.

Just lately, the carpet in our bedrooms has really been bugging me. Thanks to two teenagers who love nothing more than a good preen which seemingly involves spraying themselves (and clearly missing) with numerous lotions and potions, splattering make-up all over the place and constantly knocking over drinks, they are starting to look really grim. Then there is the dog who, in his old age, seems to have decided that he can have his run of the house, and who I often find curled up in the master bedroom leaving behind a mound of fur.

Increasingly, I have been thinking that other types of flooring – namely wooden floors – would be so much easier to keep clean but, practically speaking, is it a good idea?

The carpet is soft underfoot and protects downstairs from the noise of footsteps and the loud phone conversions between the teens and their friends. Even with it, you can clearly hear noises from overhead when sitting downstairs, so I reached out to the experts for their advice.

Is wooden flooring upstairs a good idea?

We have engineered wood flooring in a number of rooms on the ground floor of our house and I love how easy it is to keep clean, as well as the fact that it doesn't absorb pet odours. I really like the idea of using it for our bedroom flooring but am worried that it will mean that downstairs becomes really noisy when anyone is walking around up there.

Ian Tomlinson, MD at Chaunceys Timber Flooring, has some reassuring words for me. "Wood flooring can work exceptionally well upstairs, but the key is thinking about acoustics from the outset, rather than treating it as an afterthought. One of the biggest misconceptions is that choosing a hard floor automatically means you'll have to live with increased noise transfer throughout the home, when in reality the right installation approach can make a significant difference."

Adam Robertson, MD at Urbane Living, agrees that, when installed properly, wooden flooring can be a great option for upstairs spaces. "Wood flooring can work very successfully on upper floors, provided the installation is approached correctly from the outset. The biggest factor in managing noise is not necessarily the flooring itself, but what sits beneath it."

How do you soundproof wooden flooring properly?

One of my main concerns is that taking up the carpet and fitting engineered wooden flooring will mean that the noise of anyone clattering about upstairs is going to be louder than it is already. Is this something I'll just have to accept?

According to Ian Tomlinson, if I want peace and quiet downstairs, I should be concentrating on the underlay. "The most important factor in reducing sound transfer is the underlay. A high density acoustic underlay helps isolate the flooring from the subfloor, limiting the vibration that carries noise into the rooms below."

Adam Robertson points out that the way the flooring is laid matters too when it comes to soundproofing a ceiling. "For the highest quality installation, I would always recommend fully bonding the wood floor to the subfloor rather than opting for a floating installation. This makes a real difference to both the feel underfoot and the acoustic performance."

What type of underlay is best for wooden flooring upstairs?

Just as when choosing the best underlay for carpets, the underlay you use beneath wooden flooring matters more than ever when installing it on the upper storeys of a house.

"There are two main options worth considering," picks up Adam Robertson. "The first is a cork and rubber underlay, though it's worth knowing that this requires double the amount of adhesive because you will need to glue the underlay to the subfloor.

"The second option is a premium acoustic panel, which typically has a hard top surface, often MDF, that allows you to bond the wood floor directly to it," he explains. "Both are effective, but the choice will often come down to the specifics of the project and the subfloor you're working with."

"Standard foam underlays may seem like a cost effective option, but they rarely provide the level of acoustic performance needed upstairs," adds Ian Tomlinson. "Look for high quality rubber, compressed fibre or cork based acoustic underlays that have been specifically designed for upper floor installations and independently tested for impact sound reduction."

Does wooden flooring require a different sub-base to carpet?

Our carpet upstairs is laid over the old timber floorboards, which have a void beneath them. While fitting underlay sounds pretty straightforward, I'm wondering whether there are other steps I should take too.

"When homeowners are looking to reduce noise travelling from children's bedrooms or busy family spaces above – which is a very common concern – the overall floor construction becomes just as important as the flooring itself," explains Adam Robertson.

"A floor build up that incorporates mineral wool insulation between the joists, plywood over the joists and a fully bonded wood floor on top will provide excellent sound insulation for most households," continues Adam.

"Add a few well-placed rugs and soft furnishings, and there is no reason why you can't enjoy the character and practicality of wood flooring upstairs, without compromising on comfort or acoustics."

Shop bedroom rugs

FAQs

Is solid or engineered wood flooring better upstairs?

There are two main types of wood flooring: solid and engineered.

Solid wood flooring, as the name suggests, is made up purely of solid wood, sawn into planks. Engineered, on the other hand, is made up of a top layer of solid wood veneer – the thickness of which varies – bonded to several layers of high-density fibreboard (HDF) or plywood.

"We generally recommend engineered wood flooring for upper storeys as it offers excellent stability and is less prone to movement over time, which can help minimise the risk of creaks developing," says Ian Tomlinson. "Installation methods also play an important role, with glued installations typically delivering better acoustic performance than mechanical fixing methods."

Whatever type of flooring you decide to lay in the upper storeys of your home, make sure you are aware of the most common flooring mistakes people make so that you can avoid doing the same. And, if you already have squeaky floors upstairs, make sure you rectify the issue before fitting new flooring.

If you had told me last year that a corded vacuum cleaner would be my favourite model, I wouldn’t have believed you. As someone with zero arm strength and two flights of stairs, I had remained as loyal as ever to my cordless vacuum – until I met the Henry Allergy (available on Amazon).

Yes, it’s a little bulky, weighing 7.7kg, but its powerful suction and reliable performance outweigh this drawback every time, making it one of the best vaccum cleaners. Thanks to the two-metre hose, I can vacuum half of my stairs from the top and half from the bottom without having to lug the body up and down with me.

To find out whether the Henry Allergy Vacuum Cleaner could be right for you, keep reading – I’ve shared the good, the bad, and the type of home it’s best suited for below. Plus, I asked an allergy expert whether HEPA filters are all they’re cracked up to be.

Henry Allergy Vacuum Cleaner specs

Here's a round-up of the specs you need to know:

Henry Allergy Vacuum Cleaner: set-up

One thing I love about a Henry vacuum is how simple it is to set-up and use. It might not have 100 flashy features like many cordless models do, but if you just want to get on with your cleaning without solving a technical riddle, it’s just the trick.

Plug it in, switch it on, and you’re good to go. The attachments are pretty self-explanatory – they click on with ease, and the instruction manual clearly explains what each one is best for.

Henry Allergy Vacuum Cleaner: ease of use

Whether you have carpets, hard flooring, or want to dust off fabric sofas, this vacuum works wonders on all types of surfaces and comes with all the attachments you need for each one, so you don’t cause any damage.

I’ve tested it on all three, and while it works fantastically on each of them, it definitely scored top marks on my hard wooden flooring – it glides across like a dream, without missing a speck of debris. I love finishing off skirting boards and cabinet tops with the crevice tool.

From crumbs and dirt to hair and food clumps, nothing gets past the powerful suction of this vacuum. Due to this high grip power, you do have to put in a bit of effort when it comes to cleaning carpets – but rest assured, the results are always worth it.

I previously mentioned that this vacuum is a little bulky, so when I discovered that it comes with a handy built-in stand to rest the hose, I couldn’t have been more excited. This, combined with the handle on top, makes it easier to carry around.

Talking of useful features, the Henry Allergy Vacuum Cleaner also comes with its classic cord rewind feature, making it easy to store away.

Cleaning out my vacuum is one of my least favourite chores, but thankfully, due to its six-litre capacity, I only need to do this around once a month. The vacuum bags are cheaper than I expected too, costing under £15 on Amazon for 10 dust bags.

Despite other vacuum cleaners claiming to have a 'tangle-free' design, I always ended up cutting my hair out of the vacuum head with a pair of scissors, which was so frustrating. To my delight, I haven’t had to do this with the Henry Allergy – only once did I just have to brush it into the suction. So, if you have pets or shed a lot of hair yourself, I highly recommend it.

Henry Allergy Vacuum Cleaner: HEPA filter

The HEPA filter is, of course, the standout feature of this vacuum cleaner, making it a great choice for those with allergies and pets (or anyone looking to improve their indoor air quality).

As a hayfever sufferer, running this around the house in the summer gives me peace of mind that pollen isn’t collecting on surfaces and aggravating my allergies even further at home.

I was initially sceptical that a HEPA filter would make that much of a difference, but after speaking with Dr Stephanie Kayode, Allergy Physician at Allergy Care London, I changed my mind.

"HEPA filters are made up of multiple small, crisscrossing fibre layers that are great at trapping and collecting the smallest particles," she explains. "In non-HEPA vacuums, these tiny particles can escape the filters, travelling out of the vacuum and back into the home."

"It has been demonstrated that HEPA filter vacuums, when used over time, are better at retrieving dust, pollen and animal allergens than non-HEPA vacuums. Over the long term, vacuuming removes allergens and debris from carpets and soft furnishings. HEPA-filter vacuums can successfully reduce airborne allergen levels."

Henry Allergy Vaccum Cleaner: final verdict

Henry vacuums are a classic for a reason – they're long-lasting, reliable, and offer high suction without unnecessary faff. The Allergy model is no exception, and after a year of testing it on all kinds of surfaces (hard flooring, carpets and furniture), it has always delivered flawless results.

Although this model is marketed towards those with allergies, I think all households are better off having a HEPA vacuum. While the standard model is a little cheaper, for the sake of a £20 difference, you may as well opt for the higher-grade filter.

It might be clunkier than some of the cordless models out there, and it is a bit of a pain that you have to buy filters separately, but this is the vacuum I’ll always turn to when I need a deep, thorough clean. And, if the other Henrys I’ve tested in the past are anything to go by, I know it’s going to last me a very long time.

If you're feeling undecided, read our Henry HVR160 review – a popular choice for DIYers. Or, for low-maintenance robot cleaning, check out our review of the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete.

I've never tried an all-in-one vacuum mop before, so I tested the Beldray All-in-One Multi-Surface Floor Cleaner to see just what all the fuss was about. Positioned as a one-stop-solution for busy homes where dirt and spills on flooring are a regular occurrence, it's designed to do the job of two machines in one.

While my children are no longer young, they are still more than capable of dropping food and spilling liquids. Add into the mix a small dog, and my own somewhat clumsy nature, and it seems it would be the perfect fit.

The only downside as far as I could see prior to testing was that I'm short on storage space for it to live in, as I own a relatively small flat. Nonetheless, I put it to the test to see if it was something I'd find the space for if it was that good.

Specifications

The Beldray All-In-One Floor Cleaner has the following spec:

• Colour: Black
• Type: Wet and Dry
• Cordless: Yes
• HEPA Filter: No
• Maximum Runtime: 25 mins
• Power: 180W
• Speed Settings: 1
• Capacity: 0.65 Litres
• Dimensions: 25.2 x 28 x 108.85 cm

First impressions

The Beldray All-in-One Multi-Surface Floor Cleaner arrived in a large brown box. It wasn't particularly heavy and I was able to carry it upstairs to my flat alone. Unboxing it revealed a similarly sized box inside, branded with the product images and text describing its key features.

Opening it wasn't difficult, and it was well packaged inside to prevent damage during transit. Once unpacked, it was already pre-assembled other than the handle. The clean and dirty water containers were already in place, but as it didn't arrive fully charged, I had to assemble it and plug it in for the recommended 5.5 hours before I was able to use it.

Luckily I had assumed this might be the case, so had allocated time to do the initial set-up and test across two days. I'd also timed it to coincide with the need to clean my home, so was hoping I would be able to see exactly what it was capable of from the off.

The instruction manual was clear and easy-to-follow (and is also available online via the Beldray website if you ever lose it), so once the handle was inserted, I placed it on the base tray, plugged it in and left it to charge. A blue indicator on the front of the cleaner shows when it's charging, which makes it easier to know when it's ready for use.

During operation, these lines turn to green.

Using the Beldray All-in-One Multi-Surface Floor Cleaner

Before using the Beldray All-in-One Multi-Surface Floor Cleaner for the first time, you need to remove the clean water dispenser and fill it with water. The instructions advise that you can also add some mild detergent in for extra cleaning power. Unlike the Philips OneUP 5000 Series Electric Mop, which I had previously tested and comes with its own supply of cleaning solution, there is none provided with the Beldray cleaner, or details provided of any recommended ones.

I therefore decided to add a small amount of multi-purpose cleaner into the water so that I wasn't cleaning the floor purely with water.

To remove the water container, you have to press down on it and then pull it away from the main unit. It took a couple of attempts to get the right action, but once I'd mastered it, it was relatively easy. You then fill the container, pop it back on, and push into place.

Trying out the cleaner on different surfaces

The Beldray cleaner is designed for use on hard floors such as LVT, engineered wood flooring, tiles and vinyl flooring, rather than carpeted areas. I have LVT in my kitchen, living room and tiny utility room, tiled floors in the main bathroom and en-suite and then engineered wood flooring on the staircase leading from the front door to my flat which gave me a good variety of surfaces on which to try the cleaner.

As the instructions state the cleaner is not designed to pick up larger debris, I did vacuum the floors a couple of days before as they were needed a thorough clean. However, there was still plenty of daily debris and dust, and as the floors hadn't been mopped for a week, I was anticipating that there would be a decent level of dirt that needed lifting.

1. Cleaning the tiled bathroom floors

First up was the tiled floors in the bathroom. These had some general dust and a few sticky spots from spilled toiletries. The Beldray All-In-One Multi-Purpose Floor Cleaner dealt with these smoothly and the floor was soon sparkling. And, unlike having to tiptoe over a wet floor after using a standard mop, the floor was almost dry by the time I'd finished.

2. Using the cleaner on LVT flooring

My open plan kitchen diner living room floor has to deal with everything in one go. Cooking, eating, relaxing, snacking, dog zoomies and even the odd football being bounced around when they boys think they can get away with it.

As it's the only living space we have, if there's spills and sticky spots in the kitchen, they need to be removed pretty quickly so that they don't track over to the seating areas. A floor cleaner such as this one kept close to hand could be a great solution to stop me having to tell the boys not to step in certain spots until I can get the mop out.

Much the same as using it on the tiled floors, the Beldray All-In-One Multi-Purpose Floor Cleaner glided over the floor quickly and easily. Spots on the kitchen floor lifted and underneath the dining table the crumbs and marks were gone.

The only downside? I love the fact my Shark Anti Hair Wrap & Flexology Cordless Vacuum Cleaner is flexible enough to lower and slide underneath the sofas easily. The Beldray All-In-One Multi-Purpose Floor Cleaner doesn't have the same feature and so if I wanted to give the whole floor a clean I'd have to move the furniture.

Not necessarily a deal-breaker as the cleaner feels more like a daily life product than one for a full spring-clean.

3. Tackling the engineered wood flooring

Although the Beldray All-In-One Multi-Purpose Floor Cleaner doesn't come with any attachments that would make it slightly easier to use on stairs, I wanted to try it on as many hard surfaces as possible. The entrance stairwell has engineered wood flooring so I worked my way up and down each step to see how the cleaner performed.

There's a small flat section at the top and bottom of the stairs that's mainly inlaid with a doormat, but the area as you come in through the front door gets particularly dirty. Once again, no complaints with how the cleaner lifted the existing dirt and debris. Full marks again in terms of performance, but again, further confirmation that in terms of design and getting the most out of it, this is a cleaner best used on large flat spaces.

Dismantling and cleaning the cleaner

When you've finished using the Beldray All-In-One Multi-Purpose Floor Cleaner, you need to then clean the brush that sits in the base and essentially does all the dirty work.

However, there's the added bonus of a self-clean function that removes some of the hassle with this. It's recommended you do this after every use so that the cleaner stays prepped for use.

After emptying the clean and dirty water tanks, you refill the clean one with clean water and place both back in situ. Make sure the cleaner is not plugged into mains power, is sitting on the base tray and then press the self-clean button at the top of the handle.

Once the cleaning cycle has run for around two minutes, follow the instructions to remove the brush head and if it's clean, pop it on the handy slot that's part of the tray and leave it to dry. Then, put it back into position and you're good to go next time.

However, as it's also recommended you clean the foam filter inside the cleaner each time, you may decide to give the brush a final rinse in the sink as well – something that may be sensible if you've been cleaning particularly dirty floors.

Final verdict

Does the Beldray All-In-One Multi-Purpose Floor Cleaner do what it claims? Absolutely. It vacuums, mops and dries far quicker than using a separate vacuum and mop. The motorised turbo head also means it deals with stubborn spots, sticky marks or spills efficiently – saving repeated scrubbing with a mop. Floors are drier in rapid time making them safer to walk on, and avoiding that post-clean soggy foot feeling.

The downsides are limited, but in the interests of a fair review, I'm mentioning the following.

The 25-minute run time was fine for my small apartment, but I wonder if in larger homes it may not cover all of the hard flooring in one go? If you wanted it to hand for unexpected spills, you also may need to charge it on a very regular basis.

As there are no attachments, it's best used on expanses of flooring that have less clutter or items to move. And of course, there's the issue of storage. Unless you had a large cupboard for your cleaning kit or good utility room storage, it's another small appliance you need to store, as while it may replace a mop, I feel you'd still need a vacuum cleaner for larger volumes of dry dirt and debris.

That said, as I said in the headline, had I owned this product 10 years ago when I lived in a larger property and had two younger children and dogs running around, I'm fairly sure it would have been used on a daily basis.

It would have saved countless kitchen roll sheets clogging up my kitchen bins, the vacuum and mop both being dragged out, and bought me back some time to spend doing other things. Would I recommend it to friends with this kind of home and life? Yes. For me, with older children and a smaller property, not so much, but I've enjoyed testing it and imagining what could have been!

Vinyl planks are a popular choice for DIYers. They are comparatively inexpensive, offer plenty of design options, and are easier to install than other types of flooring. If you want a new floor, and to do it yourself, it's a fairly straightforward process.

However, you’ll still need the right tools and techniques to ensure a successful installation. Get it wrong and you could be left with a floor that looks worse than when you started.

I know exactly what's involved as it's a job I recently tackled myself, so I'm sharing the tools you’ll need, the time it will take (so you can plan ahead) and some smart tips and tricks to make the process easier.

Why I’m pulling up my old vinyl planks

Vinyl planks don’t last forever, so I decided it was time to get rid of the old, usher in the new, and give my kitchen floor a new look. There were a few reasons for saying goodbye, but the most obvious was that the top layer had worn away. The once-pristine wood-effect layer no longer existed in places and was showing through as white instead. It was not a good look.

But I have to say these were bought on sale, so it seems the old adage you get what you pay for rings true here. That said, I have had seven years out of them which isn’t bad. Although I would note that the quality wood-effect vinyl planks I bought around the same time for my hallway flooring are still going strong, and see more traffic.

Besides the lack of a top layer, a few of the planks had also cracked and pulled apart, and the glue was attracting dirt and food, and becoming difficult to clean. The last reason for changing them was the pattern. When I originally installed them I was trying to replicate the look of floorboards, but it didn’t work as well as I'd hoped.

The tools you’ll need to pull up vinyl planks

To get the job done effectively and efficiently, you will need the right tools to lift the planks, clean the subfloor, and prep it for the new vinyl planks.

• Scraper - like this Amazon Basics Soft Grip, Heavy-Duty, Bent Scraper
• Long-handled scraper
• Heat gun
• Floor cleaner
• Metal scourer – like these Marigold Scrub Away Stainless Steel Scourers from Amazon
• Sander
• Knee pads (optional) – try these Thunderbolt Knee Pads from Amazon

Shop for tools to help remove and replace vinyl planks

How to pull up the existing vinyl planks

Pulling up vinyl planks is relatively simple, but it can be hard work. If you’re lucky, the tiles may already be lifting, making them easy to remove with a basic paint scraper. My glued-down vinyl planks unfortunately weren’t easy to remove.

To start the removal process, I found an edge in a corner and eased up the first tile with a narrow scraper like this Dekton 2" Professional Scraper from Amazon. Once I had prised up enough of the first plank, I unleashed my secret weapons, a heat gun and a long-handled scraper.

Using the heat gun to warm the vinyl and the long-handled scraper to lift the planks makes the removal process much easier and quicker. Methodically heat the vinyl plank, use the small scraper to start and then the long-handled scraper to get under the plank. Keep the scraper at a shallow angle to avoid cutting into the floor (if wood).

As I’ve got a small kitchen floor – around 5m2 – I was done in just over an hour. But don't forget to factor in moving furniture, washing machines, cookers, etc as this will add more time.

Preparing the floor for the new planks

Lifting vinyl planks (mine were the peel-and-stick variety) will leave glue residue on the floor. This will still be tacky for a while, so you will stick to the floor while working. One tip is to fold a lifted plank or join two together - glue side to glue side – and place these where you are working to create a non-sticky surface.

To remove the glue residue, heat it up and scrape it off. You could keep a lifted plank nearby to wipe the glue residue from the scraper onto. The glue will stick to the scraper, so I occasionally warmed up the residue and wiped it off with a cloth to keep it clean.

Scraping rarely removes all the residue. But with a bit of elbow grease, a metal scourer, and a bucket of hot water with floor cleaner (I used this Method Floor Cleaner from Amazon), I managed to remove most of the residue. To finish – my subfloor is wood – I used a sander with 60-80-grit sandpaper. This helped remove any debris, levelled the floor, and improved adhesion for the new planks.

Choose a pattern

There are a few options when it comes to vinyl flooring laying patterns, so I decided to ask a few experts to see what they recommended.

Christof Schirlbauer, managing director of Waxed Floors, suggested a popular option. “A standard straight lay, also called a linear or brick bond pattern, where each row is offset by around a third to a half of a plank length, is the most straightforward to install and works well in most rooms.” I decided to go with a linear pattern, but wasn’t sure which way to lay it.

“As a general rule, lay planks parallel to the longest wall in the room or in the direction of the main natural light source," advised Christof. “Running planks towards the main window draws the eye down the length of the room and makes the space feel longer and more open.”

I decided to follow this advice, especially after Christof revealed what can go wrong. “Avoid running planks perpendicular to the light source where possible," he advises, "as this tends to highlight any unevenness in the subfloor."

The final decision I wasn’t sure about, was whether I should blend my new flooring layout, type and pattern with the next room. Yarl Christie, founder and managing director of Stories Flooring, shared his advice.

“Maintaining the same direction and pattern through adjoining rooms creates a more seamless and spacious appearance. However, it is not always necessary," he adds. "Changes in room shape, transitions between different flooring types, or practical installation considerations may justify changing direction between spaces. The decision should ultimately balance aesthetics with the layout of the property.”

My final decision? To match with the adjoining room as I had no issues with how this looked.

Laying new vinyl planks

The first thing I needed to decide was where to start. There are several options for this. Personally, I like to dry-lay the vinyl planks in the direction I've decided on. I move all the whole planks until there is an even gap on each side (on the long side). For extra accuracy, I then measure the gap to make sure it is uniform.

I adopted this approach with my new planks, and once this was done, I made sure the entire plank nearest the wall was aligned with the wall and marked the long edge with a pencil.

This gave me a starting point, from where I laid a full tile, and then continued to lay all the full-length tiles in my chosen pattern. Using a long straight edge (like a spirit level) is advisable when laying each new plank. Place it halfway along the edge of the laid plank and mark; this will give you a guide for laying the next plank.

Next came the fun part, cutting the tiles to fit and finish the pattern. For 90-degree cuts, simply measure the gap. I measured both the left and right edges of the gap where the tile was going and marked them on the plank. Using a straight edge, I lined it up with both marks, and used a sharp knife to cut.

Alternatively, you can use a laminate cutter such as this NAACOO Laminate Floor Cutter from Amazon. Note, these are much more expensive than a sharp utility knife, such as this OX TOOLS Pro Heavy Duty Folding Knife from Amazon.

If you need to cut along the length of a plank, place a plank against the wall, place a plank on top, line up the edges of the laid plank underneath, draw a line and cut. Leave a small gap around the edges of the walls and cupboards. I also use 2mm or 3mm tile spacers like these OX Trade Cross Shaped Tile Spacers from Amazon to make sure the gaps remain even.

FAQ

How many planks will I need?

This is pretty simple to work out. I measure the largest square/rectangular area and multiply the two lengths to get the square meters. Do the same for smaller areas (not the main area). Add the totals, then add 10% to make sure you have enough planks for awkward cuts, mistakes and general wastage.

Small packs such as these Rustic oak Natural Wood effect Self-adhesive Vinyl plank from B&Q are commonly around 1sqm, while larger packs such as these Wood Grain Effect Self-adhesive Vinyl Floor Planks from B&Q typically cover around 5sqm.

Replacing the flooring in your home gives you the perfect excuse to think about other renovations and updates. Check out our vinyl flooring ideas for every room for inspiration for your next project, and where to buy different types of vinyl flooring to suit your home improvement plans.

Are you a strict shoes-off household or do you, like me, cringe at the idea of asking guests to leave their footwear at the door? It's a controversial topic, I know.

I totally understand the logic behind the no-shoes rule some households abide by, and I would certainly never refuse to take off my shoes if asked – but I just don't like it. There's something that feels a bit insulting about the whole thing. I mean, what's wrong with my shoes? Obviously if they were caked in filth, I'd take then off without being asked. I wouldn't go ruining your beautiful carpet with clumps of mud. I used to have a friend who insisted that shoes were left at the front door, despite sharing her home with three very hairy, slobbery dogs – my socks would be covered in fur and drool when I left. It just didn't make sense.

To put the issue to bed, I decided to speak to a range of experts, both from the world of good etiquette as well as a top cleaning guru. So, just who is in the right in the great shoes-off debate?

Is it rude to ask guests to remove their shoes?

Whichever camp you fall into, let's start by looking at what the experts had to say about asking guests to remove their shoes at the front door, before allowing them into your home. To my mind, it could be seen as a little unwelcoming.

Etiquette expert Laura Windsor, aka 'The Queen of Etiquette', advisor for Netflix's Bridgerton Series and a Queen Elizabeth II Commonwealth Trust Leader, offers her take on the matter.

"Taking shoes off when entering someone’s home is not traditionally considered a cultural norm in the UK. However, many people are now adopting this practice, as it helps keep the home clean and prevents outside dirt from being brought indoors.

"If you are inviting guests to your home and would prefer shoes to be removed, it is wise to mention this in advance," adds Laura. "Doing so helps avoid embarrassing situations for guests who may not expect it – particularly if they happen to have holes in their socks."

Jo Hayes, a world-leading etiquette expert and founder of EtiquetteExpert.Org, agrees that homeowners are quite entitled to ask guests to remove their shoes, with one exception.

"This rule usually only applies to individual guests, or, perhaps, a very small number of guests. If you’re having a big party at your home, this rule is not going to fly. It’s a bit off to invite 80 people to your home for a cocktail party, and then ask them to leave their shoes at the door. It ruins the whole vibe.

"If your home isn’t suitable for a shoe-wearing cocktail party crowd, don’t host such a party – or host it outdoors or in an area of your home where shoes are okay," adds Jo.

How do you ask guests to remove their shoes politely?

If you want guests to remove their shoes, you are likely going to be keen to do so in a way that comes across as polite, after all, causing offence before visitors have even stepped into your hallway is never a good thing.

Jo Hayes has some tips on how homeowners can approach the matter in a way that won't offend. "Demonstrate with your own behaviour. Welcome them at your door with no shoes on. Additionally, a shoe rack at the front door (either inside or outside) sends a clear message that this is likely a ‘no-shoes’ house. It also provides a spot for guests to deposit their shoes.

"When you greet them at the door, after initial niceties, a kind, calm and clear request is needed if the guests haven't already taken off their shoes, or asked if they should," continues Jo. "Something like 'I hope you don’t mind, we’re a no-shoes household’ is usually enough for the guests to respond with, ‘Oh! of course, no problem’. Really, no guest should balk at this request. It’s perfectly reasonable. Depending on the situation, you may offer a set of house slippers if this will make the guest more comfortable."

Shop for shoe storage

Should visitors offer to take off their shoes?

If asking guests to remove their shoes isn't rude, how about when the tables are turned. Should, as a visitor to someone else's home, I be offering to take my shoes off? I actually do this, but I still feel a little disgruntled when they say yes.

"Do unto others as you would have them do unto you. This means, for guests, take into consideration the house standards and rules that your host has in place, and behave accordingly," picks up Jo Hayes.

"Use common wisdom, intuition, be courteous and considerate. If in doubt, ask, 'would you like me to take my shoes off?' Many homes operate with this rule – and for good reason. Shoes bring in a huge amount of dirt and grime – and, especially for carpeted areas of the home, shoes-off helps keep everything nice and clean."

Good point. But, doormats are there for a reason. Surely a thorough wipe suffices? And even then, surely cleaning a carpet once in a while in a bid to keep your guests happy isn't too much of an effort?

Stylish doormats to encourage cleaner footwear

Is wearing shoes indoors unhygienic?

Which brings us nicely on to this next point. If your guests are checking their shoes and giving them a good wipe before trampling on in, how much harm does wearing shoes indoors actually do?

Lynsey Crombie, the UK's No1 home expert and TV presenter, is well-placed to advise here. "From a cleaning point of view, I completely understand why many homeowners prefer a no-shoes policy. Shoes can bring in all sorts from outside including mud, bacteria, grass, pollen and general dirt, especially during wetter months. If you’ve just cleaned your carpets or mopped the floors, the last thing you want is muddy footprints straight through the hallway.

"For homes with babies crawling around, allergy sufferers or light-coloured carpets, asking people to take their shoes off can definitely help keep things cleaner for longer," continues Lynsey.

"I also think people are much more conscious nowadays about hygiene in the home. We spend so much time cleaning and creating calm, comfortable spaces that naturally many homeowners want to protect that environment," she says. "In homes with carpets, rugs or soft furnishings, outdoor shoes can quickly make things look tired and worn, particularly in high-traffic areas."

I'll admit that the carpet in my living room is looking a little worse for wear thanks to this being the main route from the front door to the rest of the house. But how about in homes with hard floors?

"If you have tiled, laminate or wooden floors, I personally think it matters a little less, because those surfaces are generally much easier to clean," says Lynsey. "A quick sweep, vacuum or mop usually sorts things out, and many modern floors are designed to handle everyday wear and tear. In those homes, asking people to simply wipe their feet properly on a good-quality doormat can often be enough to prevent most dirt coming indoors."

Shoes on or off? Who's in the right?

I'm starting to think there is no right or wrong here. I guess it is just personal opinion and Lynsey Crombie's point about the effect shoes can have on carpet is a good one. However, she is also keen to point out that you do need to weigh up hygiene vs hospitality.

"For some people, asking guests to remove their shoes can feel a little uncomfortable or overly formal, especially if visitors feel self-conscious about their socks or simply weren’t expecting it," says Lynsey. "Hospitality is about making people feel relaxed and welcome, so some homeowners would rather guests feel comfortable than worry about taking their shoes off at the door.

"I think there’s definitely a middle ground too," she continues. "Some families have a strict no-shoes rule upstairs or on carpets, but are more relaxed in kitchens or dining rooms with hard flooring. Others keep indoor slippers or spare socks available for guests, which can make the whole thing feel more welcoming, rather than awkward.

"Personally, I think homeowners should do whatever works best for their household without feeling guilty about it," adds Lynsey. "If removing shoes helps you maintain a cleaner, calmer home and reduces cleaning time, then it’s absolutely reasonable to ask politely.

"Equally, if you’re happy for guests to keep their shoes on and you don’t mind the occasional extra sweep or mop, that’s completely fine too," she notes. "At the end of the day, homes are there to be lived in and enjoyed. Whether shoes stay on or come off, it’s about finding a balance between cleanliness, practicality and making people feel at home."

If you feel uncomfortable about asking guests to remove their shoes but don't want to be cleaning more often than is needed, take a look at the hallway flooring ideas that offer the most resilience to dirt. Or, if shoes off is a non-negotiable, make sure your hallway storage ideas have spare space for additional footwear.

If you're renovating a compact room, colour, storage and lighting will probably demand your attention before tiles do. But the choice of tile, and specifically how it's laid, can do more for a room's proportions than almost any of those decisions.

The advice you'll most commonly encounter – use large tiles, keep it light, stick to neutrals – isn't wrong. But it barely scratches the surface of what tile choice can actually do. The variables that really determine how generous a space feels are pattern direction, grout density, and the relationship between floors and walls.

We asked two tile designers to go beyond the basics and reveal which tile patterns work hardest in a small space, which ones to avoid, and where the conventional wisdom breaks down.

It's all about the grout lines

"It comes down to grout lines more than anything else," says Damla Turgut, founder and creative director of Otto Tiles. "Large format tiles across walls and floors can help create the illusion of space because there are fewer grout lines breaking up the surface. This reduces visual clutter and allows the eye to move more continuously across the room, rather than constantly stopping and starting between individual tiles."

Maria D Arráez, director at Tile of Spain UK, agrees, adding: "Large-format tiles laid in an unfussy, continuous pattern create a sense of openness. They help visual flow and draw the eye through the space, rather than interrupting it."

The reverse is equally true. Very small format tiles have the opposite effect, and Damla cautions against coin-shaped mosaic tiles or small checkerboard designs in compact rooms.

"The combination of bold pattern repetition and excessive grout lines can make a room feel visually fragmented and overly busy," she warns. The exception being something like traditional zellige, where tiles sit together with minimal grout lines, giving you smaller scale and texture without the same visual noise.

How the direction you lay tiles affects the size of a room

"The direction of your tiles has a huge psychological impact," explains Damla Turgut. "Running a pattern towards a window naturally pulls the eye towards the light source, which can elongate a room and make it feel more open. Vertical layouts can exaggerate ceiling height, while horizontal lines can visually widen narrow spaces."

Linear formats do particularly heavy lifting here. Striped or stacked layouts, alongside elongated Kit Kat tiles, draw the eye upwards or outwards, depending on the effect you're after, while a traditional offset brick pattern laid horizontally can visually widen a room. Chevron and herringbone work similarly, the direction of the lay determining whether the room feels taller or wider.

Even the smallest decisions make a measurable difference. Laying rectangular tiles lengthways through a corridor, rather than across it, can completely shift its proportions.

"People often underestimate how much tile orientation affects spatial perception," Damla says, "but it's one of the most effective tools available when working with smaller rooms."

Shop for tiles for smaller rooms

Why using the same tones and tile on floors and walls makes a room look bigger

One of the most consistently effective techniques in a small room is eliminating the visual break between floor and wall. When different materials or colours meet at that junction, the eye registers the room's true edges. Remove that contrast, and the room reads as much larger than it is.

When choosing tiles for a small bathroom, "wrapping the same tile across floors and walls can blur boundaries and make the room feel much larger because the eye isn't constantly stopping and starting between surfaces," says Damla Turgut. And Maria D Arráez extends this to internal thresholds too. "Run floor tiles seamlessly into walk-in shower areas or onto walls," she advises, "as this helps blur the boundary and makes smaller rooms feel more expansive".

Can dark tiles make a room look bigger?

"Colour and pattern go hand in hand, so it's vital to consider both when choosing tiles," says Maria D Arráez. "Softer, more tonal palettes reflect the light better and help create a welcoming, airy feel, especially when paired with a complementary grout colour." But she is clear that bold colour is far from off the table.

"An earthy palette of rich greens, terracottas and deep blues can work beautifully in small rooms when used consistently. Cocooning a small space in a darker colour can actually make it feel bigger, as the enveloping effect feels intentional rather than overwhelming."

The key, she adds, is harmony: the tile finish, grout and surrounding materials need to work together rather than compete. Damla Turgut takes a similar view on finish, noting that deeper tones with reflective surfaces can create a genuine sense of depth and atmosphere in a low-ceilinged room, particularly when paired with good lighting. "Smaller spaces don't always need to feel minimal or white to feel expansive," she says – a useful reminder that pale and plain is a choice, not a rule.

The rooms where standard rules don't apply

Pair these plain and patterned tiles together

Every renovator eventually has a room that refuses to behave like the others. Whether it's a narrow hallway or a low-ceilinged bathroom, these are also the spaces where the most interesting decisions get made.

Damla Turgut's instinct is to lean into the character of the room rather than fight it. In a narrow hallway, for instance, she would embrace a strong directional tile pattern rather than try to disguise the proportions as, "it creates real impact rather than fighting against them."

And for rooms with decorative tiles on the floor, she makes the case for keeping the walls relatively calm. "A decorative motif can help ground the scheme and set the tone for the interior," she says. "If the walls and ceiling are colour-capped, or kept relatively neutral, it allows the eye to move more naturally around the space without interruption. That balance can make a smaller room feel cohesive and larger."

Of all the individual tips and techniques, Damla's overarching point is perhaps the most useful to take away.

"Scale, layout and grout all work together," she says. "It's rarely one single factor that changes how spacious a room feels." Tile pattern is a design tool, not just a decorative choice – and the better you understand each variable, the more effectively you can use them.

The principles covered here apply to any room in the home. Whether you're choosing bedroom floor tiles or living room tiles, the same thinking around pattern direction, grout density and scale will help any space feel larger and more considered.

Dining rooms tend to fall into two broad camps these days. You have those set in a space all of their own, quite separate from the kitchen and living space, often found in older houses, where they were used only sporadically, for special occasions. Then you have dining room ideas that are either completely, or partially, open to the kitchen which undeniably make more sense on a day-to-day basis. Perhaps the ideal is to have both.

Either way, these are spaces that have to multitask, being up to the job of seating the household for meals, dealing with inevitable spills, food odours and so on, all at the same time as feeling welcoming – somewhere everyone looks forward to coming together to dine.

Being a room that has to be both practical as well as warm and inviting means your flooring needs careful consideration. Our collection of ideas are here to show that dining room flooring can be easy-to-clean, durable and beautiful, all at the same time.

1. Enjoy the best of both worlds with engineered timber

Engineered wood flooring is such a practical option for all kinds of spaces within the home and, where both warmth and practicality are the order of the day, which they are when it comes to dining room design, it just makes sense.

"For dining room flooring, the ideal choice balances durability with visual warmth," picks up Paul Moody, global marketing and insights director at Havwoods. "Engineered wood flooring is particularly well suited, offering the natural character of real wood alongside enhanced stability – an advantage in spaces that see regular use and occasional spills."

"Engineered flooring is incredibly hardwearing and can handle everything a busy dining area throws at it," agrees Adam Robertson, MD at Urbane Living. "Spills wipe clean in seconds, and with a lacquer finish, you get added protection against scratches and stains without compromising on style."

2. Create a bright and breezy space with pale large format tiles

Large format floor tiles, in a fresh, pale shade, are perfect for creating a bright and breezy dining space and work particularly well in orangery kitchen extensions thanks to how easy they are to clean.

If you are worried that tiles might feel a little sterile, María D Arráez, director of Tile of Spain UK, has some advice. "To ensure tiles don’t feel cold or sterile, it’s important to focus on finish and styling. Warmer tones, textured surfaces and designs that replicate natural materials such as wood or stone can instantly soften the look.

"Pairing tiles with underfloor heating also enhances comfort, while adding a rug beneath the table helps to introduce softness and define the dining zone," adds María."

3. Soften the scheme with a large area rug

Rugs come in handy for so many things around the home – for helping to visually zone a room, to protect carpets, add a welcoming touch to your hallway flooring and, in the case of dining rooms, to soften the overall look and help add a cosy feel.

"A better solution than overall carpet is engineered wood flooring paired with a large area rug," advises Adam Robertson. "This approach gives you the best of both worlds: the warmth and comfort of a soft surface underfoot, combined with the durability and easy maintenance of timber."

"An area rug is a smart alternative to a fitted carpet beneath the dining table," adds Kirsty Barton, brand storytelling manager at Alternative Flooring. "It’s a perfect way to define the space, either layered over carpet or placed on top of wooden floors to protect the flooring below. Adding a protective rug pad underneath allows you to avoid the hassle of buckling, wrinkling and sliding. Not only does it secure your rug in place, but it also extends its lifespan and protects your floors."

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4. Combine practicality with on-trend visual appeal

Some interior trends seem to burst onto the scene and then just stick – and terrazzo flooring and finishes is one of them.

Terrazzo is a type of stone flooring made using marble chippings which, while traditionally set into cement are now more often embedded into epoxy resin or polyacrylate.

As a dining room flooring, terrazzo works perfectly – it has a naturally busy look which is a life saver when it comes to hiding crumbs and spills – plus it is super hardwearing and easy-to-clean too.

5. Soften the whole look with natural flooring

While there is no denying the fact that carpets are a little more high maintenance than most hard floorings, you shouldn't rule them out altogether if you have your heart set on this route.

Natural flooring is a great option here, although not all are created equal. You need to do your research. Materials such as jute, made from plant fibres, are beautifully soft underfoot, but tend to be pretty absorbent, making them better for low-traffic.

Kirsty Barton has some advice on the best options. "Sisal is great at bringing organic depth into dining spaces. Its tactile, woven appearance helps to soften the look of everyday wear. It benefits from quick attention to potential stains, but choosing flecked tones or patterned weaves may make marks seem less noticeable, helping maintain its natural charm."

6. Vary floor laying patterns to zone an open-plan room

Where your dining room is either fully, or partially, open to another space, such as is often the case with open plan kitchens, you can use your flooring to zone the areas.

With tile, engineered timber and even LVT, changing the laying patterns or directions is a subtle, yet really effective, way of doing this. Alternatively, consider using a different tile or laying pattern beneath the dining table to turn the whole area into a feature.

Herringbone is a particularly popular pattern in dining rooms and Ian Tomlinson, MD at Chaunceys Timber Flooring, reveals why. "Parquet flooring options such as herringbone can work well because there is more colour variation across the floor and any scratches are more difficult to spot."

7. Achieve a minimalist look with 'seamless' tiles

Large format, stone, porcelain or ceramic floor tiles are perfect for achieving the sleek, minimalist polished concrete look without spending a fortune – plus they are far easier to lay on a DIY basis, particularly in the case of porcelain, which is more lightweight than natural stone.

Both rectangular and square tiles work well here and by matching the colour of the grout to the tiles, you can achieve a seamless look which is perfect if you are after a modern finish overall.

Tiles are also a highly practical choice, as María D Arráez explains. "Dining room flooring needs to strike a balance between practicality and atmosphere. Porcelain and ceramic tiles are a strong choice, thanks to their durability and resistance to spills, stains and everyday wear – ideal for a space centred around dining and entertaining."

8. Open up the design options with LVT

LVT flooring, also known as luxury vinyl tile, is such a practical choice in dining rooms – plus it also happens to be very affordable.

Lauren Levy, design manager at Amtico Flooring, explains why this is an option to consider. "In a multifunctional space used for everything from relaxing to playing games to socialising, LVT flooring is a great option. Built to withstand it all, without compromising on style, it’s a practical and affordable choice for busy households where design and durability go hand in hand."

LVT also comes in all kinds of colours, patterns and finishes, including wood effect, making it perfect for kitchen flooring too.

9. Take steps to protect your new flooring

While certain types of flooring are undoubtedly more prone to damage than others, it makes sense, particularly in the dining room where chairs get pulled in and out, furniture tends to be on the heavier side and all manner of spills and stains occur, to take precautions.

Paul Moody has some tips on protecting an engineered wood floor. "Practical steps, such as using pads on chair legs and quickly wiping up spills will help preserve the floor's appearance."

Ian Tomlinson also points out that some types of wood flooring are a better choice than others in a dining room. "Be careful when selecting the finish. Lighter floors for example show wear more quickly, and therefore require more care to maintain the look. In general, darker wood flooring will be more forgiving in the long run. Shiny finishes, such as gloss or satin, can highlight scratches, especially on darker floors. For a more discreet look, we recommend an ultra matt finish.

"A textured floor can also help conceal scratches," he adds. "Consider options like brushed, sawn and brushed, or distressed wood for added durability and a rustic appeal."

10. Play around with parquet designs for added interest

The popularity of parquet flooring and herringbone patterns seems to be enduring, and in a dining room, these kinds of designs work so well.

Firstly, they are great at masking dents and dirt, and secondly, they open up the possibility of playing around with pattern, mirroring their chevron design elsewhere in the space for a fully cohesive end result. If you like this idea, be sure to look into how to lay parquet flooring first – it can be a tricky task.

If you are worried about the durability of this type of floor, it is worth noting that engineered timber is usually well-placed to withstand daily dining room life, as Ian Tomlinson explains. "One of the key advantages is its superior structural stability. The multi-layer construction, featuring a hardwood top layer bonded to a birch plywood base, resists natural expansion and contraction caused by heat and moisture, making it suitable for most environments including kitchens, and dining rooms."

11. Add a little grandeur with traditional tiles

If you have the luxury of a separate, 'special occasion' dining room, you might like to consider decking it out in a more traditional, grand style, complete with floor-length curtains, richly-coloured walls and, of course, a stone, or stone-effect, floor.

If you love the idea of furnishing your dining room so that it looks fit for a banquet, flagstone or chunky square tiles, interlaid with smaller coloured tiles work brilliantly.

Worried stone flooring will feel cold underfoot? Sophie Chapman, associate and interior designer at The Vawdrey House has some advice. "Stone or tiled floors can work beautifully, but it’s important to soften them with rugs or underfloor heating so the space feels comfortable rather than cold."

12. Think about how your furniture will tie in

Your flooring ideas and the colour and finish of your walls will form the backdrop of your dining room, but do consider how your furniture choices are going to sit alongside them, just as you would when designing a living room.

Dining room furniture is usually pretty sizeable, with the dining tables and chairs and perhaps a sideboard or dresser, being the most prominent items in the room. It pays, therefore, to consider how they'll sit against your flooring from a visual perspective.

One approach is to match materials and colours, while the other is to choose something in complete contrast in order to allow each element to fully stand out. The choice is yours, but make sure your decision results in a space that looks considered.

13. Choose a carpet with extreme care

As we've already said, fitting carpet in a dining room is probably the least practical option, but that doesn't mean you have to give up on the idea altogether. The key thing here is to understand a little about the different types of carpet out there.

When choosing a carpet, Kirsty Baton recommends a 'faux carpet', meaning one that is made from synthetic, as opposed to natural materials. "A faux carpet is a great choice as its easy maintenance offers peace of mind against spills and stains. With so many great options to choose from, whether it’s plush velvety finishes or sisal look-a-likes that bring texture and a natural aesthetic to the room. These smart materials deliver impressive stain resistance, are easy to clean, and remain soft and stylish underfoot.

"Keeping to a regular cleaning routine tailored to your carpet type is the best way to stay ahead of everyday crumbs, chair movement and the occasional spill," adds Kirsty. "This helps maintain its appearance and prolongs the life of your flooring, even in high-traffic dining spaces. Choose products that are designed specifically for the fibre – whether that’s a WoolSafe or a CleanSeal approved kit."

What is the best type of flooring for a dining room?

This very much depends on your individual needs, the look you are aiming for and the type of space you are working with. For example, in a more formal, rarely used, space, you could get away with something less durable, purely chosen for its aesthetic appeal. If this is a dining space that will form past of your family kitchen ideas, however, something hardwearing will be the best option.

Sophie Chapman sums up the options. "Timber is often a strong choice as it brings warmth and character while standing up well to daily wear, particularly when properly finished. Stone or tiled floors can also work beautifully, but it’s important to soften them with rugs or underfloor heating so the space feels comfortable rather than cold.

"Finally, carpets can be used, particularly in more formal settings, but it’s worth choosing a texture or pattern that will age well over time. Ultimately, the flooring should feel cohesive with the wider scheme while supporting how the room is really used."

Whether you are dealing with a hardworking space, such as a hallway or kitchen, or one designed to sink back and relax in, make sure you know the most common flooring mistakes homeowners make – that way you can avoid doing the same. And, if you're still not convinced you need a separate space, find out just why dining rooms are back in fashion.

Tiling around a toilet isn’t easy. The curves and bends provide a challenge for any DIYer. Get it wrong, and you will have to break out a new tile and start over. Or you could be spending forever removing tiny slivers of tile to get a good fit.

Whether you are laying floor tiles, wall tiles or using peel-and-stick tiles, the principles remain very much the same. But the techniques to achieve the curve and fit you need can differ depending on different factors.

Here, I explain the three steps you need to follow and the different methods you can use to try and achieve the perfect fit when cutting tiles around your toilet.

Step one: marking the curve

Cutting curves in a tile needs to be done accurately in order to ensure a good fit, and it all starts with marking out the curve correctly

These are the four tried and tested methods I've tried and tested.

1. Create a cardboard template

Creating a template is an old-school method, but it works well. However, you need to be patient to get the best results. Stephen Russell, independent tiler of Ashley Cross Tiling, says, “use a piece of cardboard to mark the curve and cut to shape. Don’t rush the process. If you do, you might need to start again.”

First, place the tile onto the cardboard, mark it with a pencil and then cut the cardboard with large wallpaper scissors. Alternatively, you can use a sharp steel snap-off knife, such as this Wolfcraft Metal Snap-Off Blade Knife from Amazon.

Now measure from the edge of the tile you are laying next to the toilet or object. Start at one end of the tile, take measurements every 50mm, and mark them on the template. This gives you a rough outline of the curve.

Next, make a cut on the template from the edge to be removed, just past the marks you made previously. Do this every 10mm. You’ll now have a set of strands that are flexible. Place the template where the tile is going to go, and don’t forget the gap for the grout if using stone or ceramic tiles.

Finally, press around the area (I use the end of a pencil) where the template meets the curve to create a crisp crease. Mark the shape with a pencil, pick up the template and cut along the mark. Put the template in place and check that it matches up as expected. If too tight to the curve, trim and check again. When happy, transfer to the tile.

An alternative is to use construction paper; the process is the same, but the material is usually slightly easier to cut. This method works a treat as long as you take your time. And don’t forget the grout gap.

2. Use a contour gauge

A contour gauge, such as this Dodowin contour gauge profile tool from Amazon (which I have), is a quick and easy way to get an accurate curve. Simply hold in place and push against the curve. Then transfer to a tile and mark with a pencil.

A contour gauge doesn’t have much depth; mine is around 70mm. However, you can turn and use the full length (in my case, 25cm) of the gauge to profile a longer curve.

Shop these tools for great curved tile cuts

3. Measure and mark

If you don’t have a piece of cardboard or a contour gauge handy, you can go freestyle and just measure and mark. I simply take a measurement every 20mm and mark on the tile. Then, join the marks freehand.

This method works well, but you need to take your time, as there’s no room for error. And don’t forget the grout gap. I use a straight edge and a pencil and mark the gap on the floor (or wall), so I don’t forget where to measure from.

4. Homemade hack

I’ve also used a child's school compass as a quick way to create a curve on a template, which you can transfer to a tile. I’ve also used it to mark plank-style tiles directly. This works well on the long side of an object (like a toilet) with a gentle curve.

I generally use a pencil to mark the curve, but a felt tip can work if the pencil isn’t working well, and the tile doesn’t stain.

Step two: Marking the tile to cut

There are a few options to mark a tile so you know where to cut. This will depend on the type of tile. “Use a pencil, as a felt tip pen can sometimes stain certain types of tile," warns Stephen Russell.

Felt tips are typically used on glazed tiles because they can be easily wiped clean. "Make sure you double check they wipe off cleanly on a test tile first," adds Harriet Goodacre, interiors and tiling expert from Topps Tiles, "as you don’t want any unsightly marks left on your brand new tiles."

The other option is to use a tile scribe. “A tile scribe can be used to lightly score the surface of the tile where you need to cut it, explains Harriet. "It’s especially useful when you want a guide that won’t rub away during the cutting process.

“The key is visibility without going too deep," she notes, "as too heavy scoring can lead to chipping.”

Step three: cutting the curve on the tile

There are a few options for cutting a curve once the tile has been marked out. “For curved cuts, it all comes down to how tight the shape and bend is and what the tile’s made from,” advises Harriet Goodacre.

For small curves, a pair of tile nippers is usually sufficient. For larger curves, both our experts, and I, recommend an angle grinder.

“Ease the angle grinder through the marked line using the weight of the angle grinder; do not use added force,” says Stephen Russell.

“Keep running through the angle grinder several times, don’t cut right through the tile when you start," he adds, noting how you also need to make sure you use a masonry disc to cut with.

Alternatively, you can use an electric tile cutter such as this Titan Electric Tile Cutter from Screwfix. This only allows straight cuts, so the technique is to make cuts every 10-20mm from the edge of the tile to the marked-out curve. Ideally, use a tile scribe to mark the curve, then you can snap off each thin tile strand and finish with tile nippers and a metal file such as this TARIST Half Round Metal File from Amazon, for smooth edges

For small, more intricate curves, you can use a tile saw. Good for wall tiles, but you might find you struggle with thicker floor tiles.

You might have seen a few videos online where a tiler uses a manual tile cutter, such as this Vitrex Heavy Duty Tile Cutter from Toolstation, to cut a curve. I can promise you this takes plenty of practice and is best avoided for most DIYers.

If you’re tiling a bathroom floor, you’ll need to know how many tiles you'll need. Especially if cutting curves around a toilet. Find out where to get the best deals with our where to buy bathroom floor tiles guide, or, for inspiration on what to buy, check out our bathroom floor tile ideas.

Choosing the right flooring for your kitchen is one of the most important decisions you'll make. Unlike other spaces in the home, the kitchen demands a floor that can handle constant moisture, temperature changes, heavy foot traffic and the inevitable spills that come with daily cooking.

While it can be tempting to choose based on looks alone, the wrong choice can be a costly one, both to repair and to replace. And with so many options on the market, it's not always obvious which materials to steer clear of.

To help you avoid an expensive mistake, we asked flooring designers and kitchen experts to share the worst kitchen flooring choices you can make, and why you should think twice before laying them.

What are the worst types of flooring for a kitchen?

Aside from installing carpet in a kitchen – which virtually every expert agrees is a hygiene and moisture disaster waiting to happen – two materials come up time and again as the worst kitchen flooring choices: solid wood and low quality laminate. Both are popular choices that can look great, but in a working kitchen, both tend to disappoint.

Why solid wooden floors may not be right

Stephen Latham, managing director at J2 Flooring, explains why solid wood struggles in kitchens. "As a natural material, solid wood responds to changes in heat and humidity, which are hard to avoid with regular cooking and cleaning. Over time, that movement can lead to gaps forming, slight warping, or the finish starting to look uneven."

Christof Schirlbauer, managing director at Waxed Floors, agrees: "Installing solid hardwood is the most common mistake we see in kitchens. It looks beautiful in a showroom, but solid wood is highly susceptible to moisture and humidity, and kitchens are one of the most demanding environments in any home. Steam from cooking, water from the sink and the constant thermal cycling from ovens and dishwashers cause solid boards to expand, contract and cup over time."

Laminate flooring can be impractical in kitchens

Laminate flooring has its own set of problems. While it's a cheap kitchen flooring choice, Stephen Latham points out that it comes with its own limitations.

"The joins between boards are more vulnerable," he explains. "Even small amounts of moisture from spills or cleaning can work their way into those edges, which can affect the core of the board and lead to swelling or lifting."

And Christof Schirlbauer adds a practical warning for anyone already living with laminate in a kitchen. "Once a laminate kitchen floor is damaged, the whole floor tends to need replacing rather than spot-fixing, which is a costly lesson to learn."

The flooring finishes that never live up to expectations

Some of the worst kitchen flooring finishes are also some of the most visually striking. High-gloss surfaces, polished porcelain, and kitchen floor tiles with very light grout can all look stunning at the point of purchase, but life in a busy kitchen quickly tells a different story.

Stephen Latham explains more. "High-gloss finishes can look very clean and polished initially, but in day-to-day use, they tend to highlight everything from watermarks and grease splashes to footprints and general traffic. That contrast can catch people off guard once they start living with it."

"Highly polished porcelain can also be incredibly slippery when wet, which is a major safety concern in a kitchen," adds Will Frankling, co-founder of Kitchen Makeovers. And he also flags a subtler issue. "Very light-coloured grout often discolours quickly, ruining the aesthetic."

The problem, as Stephen notes, is that wear rarely happens evenly. "Materials that rely on a very uniform appearance can also change quite quickly in a kitchen setting. Wear tends to develop in specific areas, like near the kitchen sink or along main walkways," he explains, "so over time you can end up with visible variation across the floor rather than a consistent finish."

The kitchen floors that are hardest to keep clean

Some of the most popular kitchen flooring choices are also the most demanding to maintain, and, once again, the problem often only becomes apparent once you start living with them.

Will Frankling points to texture as a key culprit here: "Deeply textured kitchen floor tiles or rough natural stone can trap dirt and grease in the crevices, making them difficult to mop. High-gloss dark tiles are also a challenge as they show every water mark and smear."

Neel Bradham, CEO of Parador Flooring, also highlights the issue of porosity. "Unsealed wood, natural stone with porous finishes, and some budget laminates without proper water resistance struggle with humidity and liquid exposure." The result is a floor that not only stains easily but becomes harder to clean over time as residue works its way into the surface.

And Stephen Latham adds that the cleaning products you use can compound the problem. "Some materials are also less forgiving when it comes to cleaning products. Using the wrong solution repeatedly can affect the finish, which is something people don't always realise until the floor starts to lose its original look."

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The most common kitchen flooring mistakes

Even with the best intentions, homeowners often make the same mistakes when choosing kitchen flooring. The root cause, as Neel Bradham explains, is a tendency to lead with looks.

"Common mistakes include prioritising appearance over water resistance, underestimating how often spills happen, choosing materials that aren't properly sealed, and overlooking ease of cleaning in textured or grout-heavy surfaces."

That same mindset can extend to practical oversights too. Will Frankling notes that when laying kitchen floor tiles many homeowners fail to consider the subfloor at all, with heavy tiles laid on an unreinforced base often leading to cracking further down the line.

But perhaps the most overlooked mistake is one that has nothing to do with the floor itself. Christof Schirlbauer urges homeowners to think beyond the kitchen when making their choice.

"A kitchen that flows into a living or dining area needs flooring that reads as cohesive across the whole space. Choosing a separate material for the kitchen creates a visual break that makes both areas feel smaller and less connected than they could be."

What are the best alternative kitchen floors?

While solid wood, laminate and textured tiles are out, the good news is that better options are widely available. Most experts point to luxury vinyl tile (LVT), such as Karndean flooring as the best flooring for kitchens.

Neel Bradham puts it simply: "Kitchen vinyl is water-resistant, comfortable underfoot, and easy to clean. High quality choices can also offer a convincing wood look, but with better scratch resistance and improved spill tolerance."

Stephen Latham has seen enough cautionary tales to know what works. "LVT flooring is designed with a sealed surface and a stable core, so it doesn't react in the same way to moisture or temperature changes. It also offers a more consistent, easy-to-maintain finish, which is often what people are looking for once they've experienced the limitations of other materials."

Planning a kitchen renovation or rethinking your kitchen layout? Flooring is one of the most impactful decisions you'll make, and one of the most expensive to get wrong. Getting it right from the start will save you both money and stress further down the line.

When you need new tiles in your home, but don't necessarily have the budget or time for a major tiling project, peel and stick tiles (also known as self-adhesive tiles) offer a practical, budget-friendly solution.

And, as they also don't require the specialist knowledge needed to lay traditional tiles, they are the ideal option for DIYers looking to lend their hand to an easy refresh.

There are still some must-follow rules to ensure that your newly laid peel and stick tiles stay looking good for longer. But if you follow these, you can end up with a stylish design, a tiling pattern you love, and a finish that looks professional. That’s why I use them – and why they could be the right choice for you too.

Benefits of peel and stick tiles

Peel and stick tiles, like their ceramic and stone counterparts, can be used almost anywhere in the home, confirms David Turner, head of product at Leader Online. “The flexibility of peel and stick vinyl makes it suitable for everywhere except staircases," he notes. "The adhesive will not withstand the pressure of vertical forces, making it a potential safety hazard.”

Peel and stick tiles have excellent durability and longevity too he adds. “With a clear scratch-resistant layer, high-quality vinyl (the material peel and stick tiles are made of) can withstand pet claws, furniture scrapes and everyday wear.

“On average, vinyl flooring can last up to 10 years if properly installed, with high-quality tiles lasting more than 15 years.” Wall tiles are slightly different though he explains.

“Wall tiles can last between 3 and 10 years, depending on how well they were installed, and the environmental conditions they are in. High-moisture areas, such as when they are used for bathroom tiling ideas may make them lift sooner.”

Plenty of design options

In terms of how they look, peel and stick tiles can also be found in a variety of options to suit most interior design trends and individual tastes.

“Advances in technology mean peel and stick tiles are now available in a range of high-quality designs," confirms David Turner. “A popular modern design is stone-effect, which gives the look of natural slate or concrete, without the cold feel of real stone.

“Stylish geometric designs with Moroccan influences, or bolder patterns like mosaics and hexagons that give the impression of hand-painted designs also sell well," he adds.

Shop for peel and stick tiles

How to install peel and stick tiles

1. Buy well before you start

Patterned peel and stick tiles won't always have a perfect match-up on the edges. For example, if your tiles have a narrow border, they might not be equal due to the cutting process at the factory.

Plan ahead and try to match up a wider border with a narrow border for a more consistent look. Be warned, I’ve tried this, and you don’t always get the perfect finish. In this case, I put the worst of the edges in areas that won’t be seen so much.

Ideally, you want to buy all the tiles you need at once. Aim for around 10% more than you need, which often amounts to an extra packet. If you’ve got a lot of corners and curves, I tend to add 20% more.

And finally, try to buy from the same batch if possible, much the same as when buying wallpaper. Packaging should have a batch number. I’ve bought tiles from different batches (without realising), and there has been a notable difference, which becomes even more noticeable when laid.

If you do choose to buy from different batches, remove them from the packaging and place them side by side to compare before you fit them.

2. Get your surface prep right

Like all floor projects, preparation is key and peel and stick tiles are no different. Install them on a poorly prepared, dirty surface, and it won’t be long before they shift and start to pull away from the surface below.

If you have floorboards or an uneven wooden floor use sheets of 6mm-12mm plywood such as this Arranwood Hardwood Plywood from B&Q as a base. Ideally, add a primer/sealer to the plywood to help with adhesion.

Diluted PVA is a cheap option for indoor areas, but if laying tiles in a bathroom, use a more specialist product such as this BAL Bond SBR Multi-Purpose Bonding and Primer Agent from Victorian Plumbing.

Alternatively, if you have reasonably flat floorboards or floor hardboard, this will be a suitable surface. Or, if you have a concrete floor, make sure it is sealed with a suitable sealer such as this Bostik Cempolay Universal Primer from Screwfix.

3. Ensure you have the right tools

You will need a sharp utility knife ike this Shark-Tuff® Heavy Duty Folding Utility Knife from Amazon, a strong straight edge, such as this Aluminium Cutting Ruler with Handle from The Range, a tape measure, and a board to cut the tiles on.

If you are replacing old peel and stick vinyl tiles, you’ll also need a few extra tools to make the removal process quick and easy.

You can use a wide wallpaper or paint scraper, but I find it time-consuming, it quickly clogs with glue, and is hard on the palms of your hands. To speed up the process, I use a heavy-duty scraper such as this CCA Flooring and Wallpaper Scraper available from Amazon. This has a long handle and is much quicker, and you can change the blades.

Removing peel-and-stick tile will leave glue residue on the floor. This will need to be removed and cleaned before any tiles can be added. Combine the scraper with a heat gun like this SEEKONE Professional Heat Gun from Amazon. This softens the glue and makes it much easier to remove.

Finally, wash the floor with a dedicated floor cleaner, such as this Flash Direct To Floor Cleaner from Amazon, to remove any remaining dirt and glue. You are now ready to add your new tiles.

4. Lay from the centre outwards

Start in the centre of the room and work outwards. Dry lay the tiles to check that you don’t have narrow or awkward cuts at the edges and corners. Check out our guide on how to lay vinyl tiles for other advice as the process is much the same. I always start with a new blade and have a couple of spare blades on hand if needed.

A tip for cutting the tiles is to first ensure your straight edge is in the right place and secure. Then run the blade lightly against the straight edge and along the tile a couple of times. This helps create a straight cut. If you put too much pressure on and go astray, you won't get as neat a cut. Once the cut is deep enough, you can simply snap off the excess.

How does the price of peel and stick tiles compare to other types of tile?

Peel and stick tiles are the perfect option for those on a tight budget, particularly as they are an all-in-one solution, meaning you don’t need to think about additional costs like tile adhesive and grout.

Budget peel and stick tiles can be bought as little as £8m2, with average prices being £15-20m2 (such as these Floorpops Daphne Pink Peel & Stick Floor Tiles from B&Q).

Costs for ceramic floor tiles on the other hand are typically almost double. Expect to pay between £20 and £50 per square metre, although you can get some budget options such as these Wickes Urban Grey Ceramic Wall & Floor Tile from Wickes for £12/m2.

If you aren't proficient at tiling, you will also need to add installation costs when budgeting for other types of tiles, which can significantly raise the price.

For peel and stick tile inspiration, take a look at our kitchen floor tile ideas, and you could even consider if they could be a good fit as bedroom floor tiles, instead of wooden flooring or carpet.

Most people don’t give much thought to insulating between floors – at least not until it becomes a problem. The thud of footsteps, noisy TVs and the pitter patter of someone having a shower. The fix is often seen as simple – thick carpets, maybe more insulation, or learn to live with the nuisance.

The reality is a bit more nuanced than that, and intermediate floor insulation installed correctly will deal with three problems at once. It reduces sound transfer between floors, slows the spread of fire through the structure, and helps control how heat moves around the house.

If you don’t understand what intermediate floor insulation does, it’s easy to spend money without really solving the problem, but the way you approach it starts with understanding the problems at hand.

The noise problem

Historically, most traditionally built older homes in the UK have a timber intermediate floor between storeys. Timber joists span from wall-to-wall, with floorboards or chipboard on top, and plasterboard ceilings underneath.

This leaves a hollow void which can act like a drum. Sound resonates within the void, amplifying footsteps, voices and music. If the floorboards are slightly loose, or there are gaps around the edges, the noise problem gets worse.

There are two distinct types of noise at play here, and both behave very differently.

• Airborne noise – This is what you hear when someone is talking upstairs or a television is on. It travels through the air and into the structure. The best way to deal with it is by adding insulation to absorb and disrupts sound waves, which would pass through the void.
• Impact noise is different – This is the sharp, physical transmission of energy through the structure: footsteps, dropped objects, kids running across a bedroom. You can almost feel the noise just as much as hear it. This is where people often get caught out, because stuffing insulation between joists does very little to stop it.

Fire safety

The building regulations and Approved Document B, set out the requirements for fire resistance between floors, and as such, fire-stopping between floors is often treated as a building regs compliance issue.

But as timber intermediate floors typically have the least level of fire integrity of any building element, compromising the fire integrity of an intermediate floor has real-world consequences.

Whilst the correct selection of materials, and filling the floor void with non-combustible insulation will help to slow fire spread, gaps are a weak point. Any openings around pipes, cables or at the edges of floors can allow fire to bypass the insulation layer entirely. Fire-stopping products and careful sealing around penetrations are essential, and where attention to detail matters.

In reality, building control officers tend to focus on whether the overall construction provides adequate protection, rather than the specific insulation product used. While this gives some flexibility, it also means responsibility sits with the designer and installer to get the details right. Therefore always consult a competent designer before making any alterations that may impair fire performance.

Insulating intermediate floors

It’s worth being clear that insulating intermediate floors is a very different exercise from insulating a ground floor in older houses.

Ground floors are primarily about controlling heat loss and managing moisture, particularly in suspended timber floors where ventilation is critical to avoid damp and decay.

Intermediate floors, on the other hand, are more about comfort and separation. You’re not dealing with ground moisture or significant heat loss, but with sound transfer, fire protection and internal heat movement.

This changes the priorities, and in intermediate floors, acoustic performance and airtightness often matter much more than thermal resistance.

Insulation options for intermediate floors

The joist void offers the main opportunity to improve performance, particularly in retrofit situations. And provided the work is done properly, it offers an easy win.

Mineral wool or glass wool insulation is typically used here. It’s relatively inexpensive, non-combustible, and dense enough to absorb airborne sound effectively. When fitted correctly between joists, it provides an acoustic break within the empty cavity that would otherwise allow sound to resonate through.

Sounds simple but for the insulation to be able to perform, it needs to sit snugly between joists without being compressed. If it’s squashed around pipes or cables, its performance drops. Equally, if it’s loosely fitted, it won’t do its job properly as air gaps will completely undermine its effectiveness. So don't make this insulation mistake.

Another detail that often gets overlooked is support. Insulation in floors that need to be suspended must be properly supported, typically using netting or timber battens. Without support, insulation will sag over time, creating gaps where sound can penetrate.

It's also worth remembering that electrical cables running through insulation can overheat if they’re completely surrounded. While this isn’t a problem in new homes, older circuits may not have the same current-carrying capacity as modern cables. This doesn’t mean you can’t insulate a floor void, it just means it needs to be done with a bit of care, especially in older properties.

Shop for insulation materials

Insulating from above

If you have the option, insulating from above when insulating between floors is the easiest approach, depending on how the floor has been constructed. Working from above usually means lifting floorboards or removing chipboard decking, which isn’t always possible or convenient, especially if the boards are glued down, or walls are built off them.

If the floor can be lifted, insulation can be cut and fitted tightly between joists with no gaps. And, whilst the floor is up, it’s also possible to deal with another acoustic issue – air gaps.

Gaps around the perimeter of the floor, between floorboards, or where pipes pass through, allow air to move freely between floor levels. This airflow carries both heat and sound, bypassing whatever insulation is installed. Sealing these gaps with insulation, or a flexible acoustic sealant will make a noticeable difference.

Once the floorboards are back in place and sealed up, impact noise can be dealt with. This is where acoustic underlays are popular, with layers of rubber, foam or felt installed beneath the final floor finish. This creates a resilient layer that absorbs the energy of footsteps before it enters the structure.

Insulating from below

Where lifting floors isn’t practical, the only real option is to work from below, which usually requires the ceilings to be replaced.

With the plasterboard ceilings removed, insulation can be installed between the joists before new plasterboard is fixed. It’s a destructive and disruptive process, but possibly the only way to properly retrofit floor insulation.

When taking this approach, it’s worth upgrading the plasterboard ceiling to a different type of plasterboard with better acoustic, or fire performance properties. Acoustic plasterboard, or even doubling up on plasterboard layers will significantly improve airborne sound reduction. Fire-rated plasterboard is also worth considering, particularly in two-storey homes where separating floors form part of the fire strategy.

Insulating a floor from below doesn’t address impact noise in the same way as working from above, so acoustic underlays may still be required.

Choosing the right materials

The correct material choice isn’t about finding a miracle product, but is more about understanding what each material does well.

Mineral wool insulation and glass wool remain the go-to options for most inter-floor insulation. They strike a good balance between how much insulation costs, fire resistance and acoustic performance. High-density acoustic mineral wool products go a step further, offering better sound absorption due to their increased mass, but are without doubt harder to install, especially around existing services.

For impact noise, acoustic underlays are designed specifically to absorb vibration. These sit directly beneath floor finishes such as laminate, engineered timber or even carpet. Whilst specialist acoustic floor systems are available, these are rather technical, expensive and not easy to retrofit within an existing house, especially where headroom is limited.

The key point when choosing materials is that no single material solves everything. In practice, good results come from combining layers, filling mass within floor voids, installing acoustic resilience at the surface, and achieving airtightness with a good level of workmanship.

Insulating between floors is one of those jobs where small details make a big difference. It’s not complicated and is often one of the best ways to insulate a home, but it’s easy to get wrong.

Over the years I’ve seen many projects, and even new build ones where expensive materials were installed poorly and delivered very little performance. I’ve also seen relatively simple upgrades such as well-fitted mineral wool, combined with decent airtightness transform how a house feels.

In my experience, getting things right requires a focus on the system as a whole, and not just the insulation. Think about how sound, air and heat move through the floor, and deal with each of them, not forgetting that exceptional standards of workmanship and quality are essential to achieve the desired outcome.

Bedroom flooring doesn't usually spark much debate. Carpet, wood, maybe herringbone if you're feeling adventurous. And then someone mentions tiles, and suddenly everyone has an opinion. Bedroom design is supposed to be about softness and warmth, after all – and tiles belong in kitchens and bathrooms, surely? Well, that thinking is shifting.

Bedroom floor tiles are appearing in more homes than ever, and not just in the kind of minimalist interiors that look better in magazines than in real life. Done well, they're practical, beautiful and surprisingly cosy. Done badly, they feel like a mistake you'll be reminded of every morning when your bare feet touch the ground.

So we asked tile experts exactly what works, what doesn't, and how to get it right. Here's what they said.

What are the advantages of bedroom floor tiles over carpet or wood?

Before the mood boards and material samples, bedroom flooring comes down to one unglamorous question: will it last? Bedroom carpet, however cosy it feels underfoot, is essentially a dust trap. It holds allergens, shows wear, and has a finite lifespan that no amount of professional cleaning can indefinitely extend. Wood is better, but it scratches, it dents, and it reacts to changes in humidity in ways that can leave you with gaps, warps and a floor that looks older than it should.

Floor tiles, by contrast, just get on with it. "Unlike carpet, which inevitably holds dust, allergens and general wear from daily life, a tiled floor stays beautifully consistent year after year," explains Lesley Taylor, founder at Baked Tiles.

Damla Turgut, founder at Otto Tiles, agrees: "Tiles are far more resistant to wear and tear than carpet or wood. Once properly sealed, they're very easy to maintain and deal much better with spillages or everyday marks."

For allergy sufferers in particular, the argument becomes even more compelling. Carpet fibres are notorious for harbouring dust mites and pet dander – neither of which tiles have any interest in collecting. In warmer climates, tiled bedroom floors have always been the norm for exactly this reason. The rest of the world is slowly catching up.

Will a tiled bedroom floor feel cold?

This is the question that stops most people in their tracks, and it's a fair one. Nobody wants to swing their legs out of bed on a cold morning and meet an icy floor. But the cold-tile problem is largely solved, and has been for a while.

Underfloor heating is the most straightforward answer. "It completely transforms the feel of a tiled bedroom floor," says Lesley Taylor, "creating a gentle, even warmth that rises through the room rather than concentrating around radiators."

No underfloor heating? Area rugs do more work than people give them credit for. "The addition of generous rugs, woven runners or layered textiles around the bed brings that softness people associate with a bedroom while still allowing the beauty of the tile pattern to lead the design," says Lesley Taylor.

Which tile finishes work best on bedroom floors?

When it comes to finishes, the experts are consistent on one point: avoid high gloss. "Highly reflective surfaces tend to feel more suited to bathroom floors or kitchens and can make the space feel colder visually," says Damla Turgut. Lesley Taylor echoes this: "Highly polished tiles can sometimes feel a little too formal or slippery for a bedroom environment." The consensus is firmly in favour of matte finishes and subtle surface textures. These surfaces absorb light rather than bounce it back at you, and feel warmer and more tactile underfoot.

Colour undertones are worth thinking about more carefully than the colour itself. Damla's advice is particularly useful here: "Rather than focusing on the colour itself, look at whether the tile has a warm undertone rather than a cool one. Even grey or blue can feel warmer in a room if their undertone leans warm rather than cold."

Materials like imitation stone ceramic, cement tiles and textured porcelain tend to earn their keep on bedroom floors precisely because they have that softer, more natural quality that polished surfaces simply can't replicate.

Are there structural considerations for upstairs bedrooms?

The short answer is yes, but don't let it put you off. It's a conversation worth having early rather than a reason to abandon the idea altogether.

Weight is the main consideration. Tiles, particularly natural stone, marble or traditional cement, can be heavy, and upper floors have load limits that are worth checking before you commit to anything. "It's important to speak with your builder or contractor beforehand to make sure the floor structure can support the weight of the tiles you're considering," says Damla Turgut. "An uneven substrate can lead to issues such as cracking over time, so it's worth confirming the floor is level and suitable for tiling before work begins."

Thankfully the tile industry has largely anticipated this problem. Lighter formats and engineered options have made it considerably easier to achieve the look of stone or cement upstairs without the structural headache. Otto Tiles, for example, offers a slimline version of their cement tile range made with a more advanced cement composition – lighter, but with the same aesthetic result.

Ca' Pietra's Minérale collection, as a floating floor, sidesteps much of the issue entirely. "The floating installation means the floor can often be laid over existing surfaces without extensive structural alteration," says Grazzie Wilson, Ca' Pietra's Head of Creative.

How to style a tiled bedroom floor?

Start with the tile itself. A bedroom floor doesn't need to make a statement in the way a kitchen splashback might, but it should have some character. Cement tiles with a subtle pattern, a large-format stone-effect porcelain, a warm-toned matte ceramic — these are floors that provide a considered backdrop without demanding all the attention. The tile should feel like it belongs in the room, not like it wandered in from somewhere else.

Rugs are non-negotiable, and not just for warmth. A well-placed rug defines the space and softens the whole room in a way that's immediately felt. Go generous with the size – a rug that's too small will make the room feel unresolved. Layering a runner at the foot of the bed alongside a larger rug works particularly well with patterned tiles, letting the floor design breathe while still adding texture.

The rest follows naturally. Soft textiles, warm lighting, tactile materials on the bed and walls. All of these do the job of making a tiled bedroom feel like a bedroom rather than a showroom. "A well-chosen tile floor creates a beautifully grounded backdrop to the room," says Grazzie Wilson, "holding colour and pattern in a way that fabrics cannot always achieve."

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Are you planning on tiling your own bedroom floor? Make sure the groundwork is right before you commit to anything. As Damla Turgut highlighted, an uneven subfloor is one of the most common causes of cracking and long-term tile failure, so read our guide to tiling an uneven floor before you start.

Underfloor heating is the kind of luxurious feature that everyone wants in their bathroom and kitchen. But for homeowners renovating existing properties, particularly older homes, the major disruption of retrofitting a traditional underfloor heating system, such as digging up floors, pouring screed, and significantly raising floor levels can turn a dream into a nightmare.

One alternative is to consider an electric system, but this may not always be the most cost effective solution, which is when overlay underfloor heating may be a suitable solution.

Designed to work in the same way as a traditional system, but without the disruption, here's what to consider if you're thinking of it for your home renovation.

How does overlay underfloor heating work?

Rather than being embedded within the floor structure, overlay underfloor heating systems are designed to sit directly on top of the existing subfloor and beneath the finished floor surface.

They use low-profile, pre-routed boards, typically made from high-density insulation materials, which house smaller diameter pipework, allowing the system to operate effectively without the need for thick screed. This approach dramatically reduces issues with installation, and removes the worry of floor height build-up, which with overlay systems typically sits at around 15-35mm.

Overlay underfloor heating is becoming increasing popular because it’s cheaper than traditional underfloor heating system costs, and designed to simplify installation while maintaining strong performance.

And, much like a traditional system, “correctly installed and zoned overlay underfloor heating will result in reduced energy usage and a lower heating bill,” says Sam Jump, head of business development at Wunda Group. “Our low temperature water-based system allows for efficient heating where you want it, and when you want it, offering an energy-efficient heating solution.”

When should you use overlay underfloor heating?

Overlay underfloor heating is ideal for retrofits and renovations

Overlay underfloor heating is particularly well suited to retrofit and home renovation projects, where removing existing floors, or significantly increasing floor height isn’t practical. It works especially well when retrofitting underfloor heating into a property with existing concrete slabs, in kitchens and bathrooms where fast heat-up times are desirable, and in renovations that use hybrid heating systems.

Overlay systems also offer good compatibility with other modern heating systems such as heat pumps, explains Sam Jump.

“Air source heat pumps generally heat the water to about 35 - 50°C, so it’s important to make sure you are pairing your heat pump with a low temperature central heating system, such as overlay underfloor heating that can utilise lower temperature water, but still heat the home comfortably.”

Benefits of overlay underfloor heating

Overlay systems avoid the need for extensive structural work, and in most cases the process involves laying pre-routed boards onto a prepared, level floor, then pressing the pipework into the channels before connecting the system to a manifold.

“The thought of installing underfloor heating can seem daunting, especially doing it yourself. But with guided technical support, or the help of a professional, the system can be set up correctly for your home,” confirms Sam Jump. “What many might not realise is that the entire downstairs footprint of a three-bedroom home could be retro-fitted over the course of a weekend with minimal disruption.”

This reduced disruption is one of the system’s biggest advantages, particularly for homeowners living in the property during renovation.

Performance of overlay systems is also very good. Because the heating elements sit much closer to the floor surface than in traditional screeded systems, they respond far more quickly.

“Thanks to the rapid response of the system, heat is distributed evenly from across the entire floor surface, turning floors into giant radiators that start to heat rooms in just 30 minutes,” says Sam. “This provides a consistent, evenly spread heat, from the floor up.”

Suitable for a range of flooring types

Overlay systems are also designed to work with a wide range of flooring types. Tiles are particularly effective due to their ability to conduct heat efficiently, while laminate and engineered wood can also perform well if installed correctly.

Underfloor heating with carpet is possible, but the combined tog rating should typically remain below 2 to avoid restricting heat output.

Low-risk and low-maintenance

When installed correctly from the outset underfloor heating is widely regarded as a low-maintenance, long-term heating solution – with no joints under the floor from which water could leak and very little maintenance besides an occasional purge of the central manifold.

“Electric underfloor heating requires virtually no routine servicing, and while water-fed underfloor heating benefits from occasional checks such as reviewing manifold pressure levels, ensuring flow rates are balanced, and confirming there is no air within the system by bleeding underfloor heating, it is still minimal when compared to other systems,” says Jade Pederigan, retail marketing executive at Warmup.

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How much does overlay underfloor heating cost?

Costs for overlay underfloor heating will naturally vary depending on the system type, specification and installation method.

“For a water overlay system, material costs commonly start from around £40 - £60 per m² depending on the panel type and specification, with additional costs for the manifold and controls,” explains Jade Pederigan.

“Installation for a 40m² area typically takes 2 - 3 days with labour charged at around £200 - £300 per day, giving an estimated installation labour cost of £400 - £900.”

Could an electric underfloor heating system be cheaper?

Electric underfloor heating systems, with entry-level heating elements can start from around £15 per m². However a full specification including insulation boards and a smart thermostat will increase overall material costs. The biggest opportunity for saving money when installing overlay underfloor heating comes from DIY installation.

“You can reduce labour costs considerably if you are confident preparing the subfloor and laying panels or membranes,” says Jade Pederigan. “However, electrical connections, testing and commissioning must always be completed by qualified professionals to ensure safe operation and warranty protection.”

FAQ

Can you use it in conjunction with radiators?

In short, yes. Homeowners can choose to install underfloor heating on the ground floor while retaining radiators upstairs. This can be even more beneficial when combined with renewable heating.

“Water overlay UFH works particularly effectively with air source and ground source heat pumps, as both technologies operate at lower flow temperatures (typically 30 - 40°C). This improves overall system efficiency and can reduce running costs compared to traditional radiator-only setups,” says Jade Pederigan.

Overlay underfloor heating removes many of the barriers associated with traditional underfloor heating making it a practical option for a wide range of renovation projects.

With minimal disruption, fast response times, compatibility with modern renewable and hybrid heating systems, and low maintenance requirements, overlay systems offer homeowners a way to significantly upgrade their heating system, without the need for major structural work.

For more advice on using and installing underfloor heating, make sure you know the main underfloor heating mistakes to avoid, and find out what is the optimum temperature for underfloor heating.

I've seen a rise in the trend of robot vacuums, and I wanted to test the next generation and give a robot mop and vacuum a go to see if they're worth the hype.

I got the newly released eufy Omni C28 to test the latest model of robot mops and I tested it out to see how it performed on every type of flooring in my house.

I reveal the results below and give my opinion on whether it's worth the cost and clarify some misconceptions that I and maybe you have had about them.

How the robot mop was tested

I decided to try the eufy Omni C28 on every type of flooring in my house to see how it performs on each one.

This focused on wooden flooring in my lounge, limestone tiles in my kitchen, the carpet in the living room and the terracotta tiles in the drawing room.

With each of these, I wanted to test the Omni C28 on its most powerful function on the 'Deep' cleaning function, the 'High' water level and the 'Max' suction power. I also used the same washing-up liquid.

I also tried some other tests to really put it through its paces, and I can reveal the results for each flooring type.

Alongside the cleaning performance, I was also interested in how the robot handled navigation and maintenance. The C28 uses iPath 2.0 navigation, which maps the room layout and helps it avoid obstacles, even in darker areas or under furniture.

Testing the robot on wooden floors

The lounge uses basic wooden flooring, which was a good starting ground to test the eufy Omni C28.

With the mapping feature, it was able to assess the room size, surface type and where it could, and couldn't clean.

With the vacuum at the front and the mop behind it, the robot first pulled up dust and debris before mopping. The roller mop system – which applies around 1kg of downward pressure while cleaning – continuously washes itself as it goes, meaning it’s not just pushing dirty water around the floor.

This was a surprise as, despite its size, it performed well compared to my larger Dyson vacuum to give a very good finish. Dare I say, I couldn't have done it better myself.

Testing the robot on limestone tiles

I wanted to give a significantly tougher test, so I took it to the kitchen next. This Italian tumbled limestone flooring proved much tougher to clean for the eufy Omni C28.

Due to the bumpy surface, some stains were tougher to clean than others and this room definitely needed a couple of goes to achieve a full clean. However, I did deliberately leave some trickier stains.

On the first run the vinegar was spread slightly and the beetroot stain only partially lifted. However, the self-cleaning roller mop kept washing itself during the process, which meant the second cleaning pass was far more effective. After another run, both stains were removed.

This is where the automation really helped. Since the robot can return to its docking station to wash the mop, refill water and empty dust automatically, it’s designed to clean areas multiple times without you needing to intervene.

Testing the C28 on terracotta tiles

sq ftIt should be pointed out that after cleaning both the lounge and kitchen, the eufy Omni C28 did need to clean itself and reload its water. This was after 300 sqft of cleaning.

The next room was the largest of the lot, with the drawing room and an adjacent connecting room giving the C28 a workout. These open-plan style rooms are really where robot vacuums/mops come in handy.

The result in this room was the best yet with the flat surface glimmering by the end, and even though I set the function to the highest water level, it was a real bonus that the floor was not too wet, meaning it dried almost instantly, a problem I often get when mopping.

If I was being really picky some water marks were left behind but that is me being very harsh.

Testing the robot on carpet

,Finally, I moved the robot onto the living room carpet, which is a thick, deep-pile carpet and therefore a good test.

This is where the 15,000 Pa suction power came into its own. The robot automatically recognised the change in flooring and lifted out of mopping mode so the mop wasn’t used on the carpet.

It also navigated easily underneath sofas, footstools and chairs – areas that often get missed in regular cleaning.

Another useful feature here is the DuoSpiral detangling brushes, which are designed to prevent hair and fur from wrapping around the rollers. For households with pets or long hair, this could save a fair bit of maintenance.

Despite working through several rooms, the robot was also very quiet. At times I barely noticed it running.

By the end, the entire ground floor of my house had been cleaned in around 45 minutes, and the robot only needed to recharge and service itself once.

FAQs

Does the eufy Omni C28 need much maintenance?

One of the main selling points of the Omni C28 is that most of the maintenance is handled automatically by the docking station. The all-in-one base station empties the dustbin, washes the mop roller, refills the clean water tank and collects dirty water.

However, you will still need to occasionally empty the wastewater tank, buy new dustbins, refill the clean water tank and clean the filters and brushes every so often to keep the robot running efficiently.

How loud is the eufy Omni C28 when cleaning?

The Omni C28 is relatively quiet compared with traditional upright vacuums. The maximum level it can reach is 67 dBs.

Does the robot work in low-light conditions?

The Omni C28 uses its iPath 2.0 navigation system, which allows it to detect obstacles and map rooms even in low light or under furniture. This means it can clean effectively at night or in darker rooms without needing the lights on.

Can you control the robot remotely?

Yes. The robot connects to the eufy Clean app, which allows you to start or stop cleaning cycles, adjust suction or water levels and set cleaning schedules remotely.

You can also use the app to see the robot’s room mapping and direct it to specific areas if you only want one room cleaned.

Will the eufy Omni C28 fall down the stairs?

I did also test the eufy Omni C28 upstairs and I did worry that it could fall down the stairs. However, it will scan if it is near an edge and stop itself everytime to prevent it falling an damaging itself.

Can the eufy Omni C28 go up slopes?

It can go up slopes as high as 45 degrees, however it cannot go up edges that are larger than an inch.

Is the eufy Omni C28 worth it?

If you’re looking for a robot vacuum that can both vacuum and mop with minimal maintenance, the eufy Omni C28 Robot Vacuum and Mop is one of the more compelling mid-range options currently available.

It also performs strongly for a robot in this price bracket. With 15,000Pa suction, it has enough power to lift dust, pet hair and debris from both hard floors and carpets. The HydroJet roller mop continuously cleans itself while scrubbing floors, helping prevent the streaking that some robot mops struggle with.

Originally launched at around £649, it is currently available for about £499 during Amazon’s Spring Deal promotions, making it considerably more affordable than many robot vacuums with similar automation features.

Pity our poor kitchen floors – they do have a tough job. When they're not coping with spilled sauces, a confetti of toast crumbs or splashes from the sink, they're putting up with chair legs scraping back and forth, mucky pet (and human) paws wandering through, and maybe even the odd glass or mug being accidentally dropped from above. That's a lot more action than say, a bedroom or bathroom.

And when it comes to materials that will handle that kind of punishment, two hardwearing surfaces usually dominate the conversation: ceramic/porcelain floor tiles and laminate flooring.

While wood threatens to warp in a hot and often damp kitchen environment, and sheet vinyl can easily dent, tear or even separate at the seams, both tiles and laminate promise to make the space look good while standing up to everyday challenges.

But which, ultimately, is the best kitchen floor? Both make a convincing case in terms of style, cost and resilience, so let's take a deeper dive into what might work for you and why.

Which is more water resistant? Tiles or laminate?

We'll start with a key consideration in a kitchen – water resistance. Not only will a kitchen floor have to deal with splashes from the sink or pans of water, but also the steam from cooking and boiling the kettle.

"Floor tiles are generally considered the safer choice when it comes to water resistance, as porcelain and ceramic are naturally resistant to moisture," says Harriet Goodacre, style and interiors consultant at Topps Tiles.

"That said, laminate has come a long way, and the better-quality options can be suitable for use in kitchens, too, provided they’re specifically designed to cope with moisture," Harriet adds. "Not all laminates are made this way, and standard versions can still swell or warp if water seeps into the joins, so look for products that clearly state they’re water resistant and suitable for areas where spills or water are likely."

Quickstep, for example, sells a selection of '100% waterproof laminates'. These have a closed surface (created with a special Uniclic & Unizip system) and 'indestructible' edges with a Hydroseal coating that stop moisture from getting into the construction. Prices start from £15.49 per square m.

Shop water-resistant laminates

"Tiles will always outperform any laminate flooring idea when it comes to water resistance," says Lee Thornley, Founder of Bert & May. However, you should check if they require any sealing. "Bert & May’s encaustic tiles are suitable for use in kitchens, both on the walls and the floors, and are highly water resistant once sealed."

Grazzie Wilson, Head of Creative at Ca’ Pietra, would also recommend tiles over laminate in this regard. “Unlike laminate, which is built around a fibreboard core that can swell if moisture penetrates the joints, porcelain has an exceptionally low water-absorption rate and, when installed correctly with suitable adhesives, grout and waterproof preparation in wet zones, offers long-term protection against spills, steam and humidity."

Verdict: A win for porcelain and ceramic tiles, provided they are properly sealed.

What’s best for durability, tiles or laminate?

This is a closer competition, but again, tiles tend to come out on top, according to our experts.

"In terms of durability, tile is fired at extremely high temperatures, producing a dense, hard-wearing surface that resists scratching, fading and denting far more effectively than most laminate systems. And crucially, it does not rely on a thin wear layer that can be compromised over time," insists Grazzie Wilson.

"If you choose the appropriate specification for the space, particularly in higher traffic areas, a tiled floor can last decades without losing its integrity, whereas laminate, while practical and cost-effective, will usually have a defined lifespan and cannot be refinished once damaged."

“Both tiles and laminate can work well in a busy kitchen, but they offer slightly different levels of longevity,” admits Harriet at Topps. “Tiles are incredibly hardwearing and, when properly installed, can last for decades. They cope well with heavy furniture, splashes, spills and high footfall.”

That said, tiles aren't infallible. The main thing to be mindful of is impact, as dropping something very heavy on tiles can cause cracking. “Choosing a good-quality tile and having it laid on a properly prepared floor helps reduce that risk,” Harriet assures us.

"Modern laminate is tougher than many people expect and good-quality options have a durable wear layer that resists scratches, making them practical for everyday family life," Harriet adds. "Laminate can last for many years, particularly in well-used kitchens, but it generally won’t have the same lifespan as tiles do."

Verdict: Another victory for tiles, although laminate is improving as technology advances.

What’s the best material for a range of colour, textures and patterns?

Three of our experts are on 'Team Tiles' here. "Tiles offer an enormous amount of design and interiors flexibility," says Harriet. “Whether you’re drawn to wood, marble, stone and concrete effects, bold geometric patterns, a range of colours, or textured finishes, there’s a huge variety to pick from. You can keep things understated and pared back, or create something decorative and bold depending on the look and feel you’re after.”

"Advances in digital printing and surface structuring mean porcelain can convincingly interpret timber, stone, terrazzo or decorative pattern, while also offering formats from slim planks to large-scale slabs, allowing a room to feel expansive and cohesive," agrees Grazzie.

"Tiles still win in terms of sheer design variety. You can achieve everything from stone and terrazzo to concrete and decorative patterns. That said, laminate has evolved hugely in recent years and now offers very convincing wood tones, varied plank widths and more nuanced textures," argues Nick Cryer, founder of high-end residential construction company Berkeley Place. "The gap between the two has narrowed significantly, particularly in the mid-to-high end of the market."

Verdict: For the sheer number of styles available, it's a third win for tiles,

What comes closest to the look or texture of real wood?

So far, tiles have looked like the superior option all round. but there are some areas where laminate excels, not least in mimicking real wood.

"Laminate tends to be best when it comes to wood-inspired styles," says Harriet. "Advances in printing and surface technology mean many ranges now replicate natural grain patterns quite convincingly, often at a more accessible price point than the real thing. If a timber aesthetic is your priority, laminate gives you that warmth visually without the associated cost of solid wood."

Nick Cryer agrees. "High-quality laminate has become incredibly realistic," he says. "They way they are embossed means the surface texture now aligns with the printed grain, which makes a big difference visually and underfoot. Some newer laminates also incorporate matte finishes and varied plank repeats, avoiding the overly uniform look older products had. While engineered timber is still the gold standard, premium laminates can now offer a very convincing alternative."

If you must have tiles, however, timber-look styles shouldn't be dismissed. "Wood-effect porcelain tiles have become much more detailed, capturing the variation, knots and tonal shifts found in real wood, and 'super relief' technology now allows pattern and texture to be perfectly aligned so they feel as realistic as they look," Harriet explains.

"Our Southwold tile collection has the same warm tones and natural grain of real wood but replicated in a practical porcelain tile. Designed to be waterproof and scratch-resistant, wood-effect tiles are excellent for frequently used areas like kitchens,” says Carly Allison, head of brand and product at Fired Earth.

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What's going to look best in my kitchen?

Ultimately, what's going to look the most beautiful is in the eye of the beholder. But our experts do think certain materials suit certain styles and layouts of kitchen.

"In open-plan kitchens, where the flooring needs to flow into living or dining areas, we often lean towards laminate because it creates visual continuity and warmth," says Nick Cryer at Berkeley Place. "In more defined or architectural rooms, particularly contemporary ones, tiles can feel more intentional and design-led. Neither is inherently better – it’s about how the flooring supports the broader spatial story."

But is one material better suited to certain aesthetics? "Yes, very much so," Nick tells us. "Tiles tend to suit contemporary, Mediterranean or minimalist interiors beautifully especially large-format porcelain with subtle texture. Laminate works particularly well in country, Scandinavian-style and transitional homes where warmth is key. We’re also seeing a rise in herringbone laminate in period renovations, where clients want the look of parquet without the cost or maintenance."

"Overall, trends are moving towards softer, more natural finishes regardless of material."

Verdict: A tie, all dependent on the look and feel you're trying to achieve.

How does each feel underfoot? And which works best with underfloor heating?

Not surprisingly, tiles tend to feel cooler underfoot, especially in winter if there’s no underfloor heating (UFH) to keep them feeling toasty. "That cool feel can be welcome in the warmer months, but it’s worth considering how you’ll feel about them all year round," says Harriet.

“Underfoot, tile will feel cooler than laminate because it conducts heat efficiently, which many homeowners value in warmer months, and when paired with underfloor heating it becomes one of the most effective floor finishes available, transferring warmth evenly across the space," agrees Grazzie. "Laminate, by contrast, provides a slightly softer and warmer initial feel but acts as more of an insulator, which can reduce heating efficiency depending on the system used."

Harriet suggests choosing a laminate that’s recommended for use with underfloor heating and pairing it with the correct thin underlay. "That way, the heat can pass through it properly," she says.

Which is easiest to install?

At last – we have a very firm agreement for our experts; that installing laminate is hands-down easier than tackling tiles.

“From a practical perspective, laminate is often quicker to install due to its click-lock construction, making it attractive for short renovation timelines," says Grazzie.

“While both products can be laid by a homeowner, laminate is usually the more straightforward option for DIY-ers," agrees Harriet. "Many systems use a click-fit method, meaning no specialist tools are required, and it can be laid relatively quickly. You’ll still need to allow for expansion gaps and use the correct trims around edges and doorways, but it’s more manageable for confident homeowners."

Tiling is undoubtedly more technical. Preparing the subfloor properly is essential, and planning the layout carefully will give you a much more professional looking finish. It often takes more time and, in many cases, benefits from professional installation to achieve a high-quality appearance. "It should be carried out by a skilled professional to ensure longevity," says Grazzie. "However, that additional investment at the beginning typically translates into greater long-term performance, easier cleaning in wet areas, and a finish that is widely perceived as more permanent and higher value within the context of the home."

Verdict: Laminate wins this round.

Which is easiest to maintain?

Interestingly, this is where our experts don't agree. "Long term, I’d say tiles are easier to maintain thanks to their durable nature,” says Carly Allison at Fired Earth. “But to ensure their appearance doesn’t grow tired, it’s important to properly preserve them, as the build-up of dirt in grout lines can make your kitchen tiles appear older than they are. Unlike laminate, porcelain tiles are fully waterproof, giving you one less thing to worry about when spillages occur.”

Harriet recommends wiping your grout down regularly with a specialist grout cleaner to help maintain then. “Choosing a slightly darker coloured grout can help disguise everyday marks, and sealing grout properly from the outset makes it easier to maintain. In areas where water and spills are common, tiles often prove to be the more forgiving option in the long run,” she says.

“For day-to-day cleaning, laminate is easy to care for,” says Harriet. "There are no grout lines to worry about, so a regular sweep using a soft brush or a vacuum on the correct hard floor setting, usually keeps dust and crumbs under control. When it comes to mopping, a well wrung-out cloth or mop is all you need. Even with water-resistant options, it’s important not to soak the floor, as too much moisture can cause issues over time. It’s also best to avoid steam cleaners, as the heat can damage the layers within the plank."

Verdict: This is a close-run thing. Tiles are easier in that you are likely to have a wider range of compatible cleaning options like steamers and, in the case of ceramic tiles, more potent detergents. BUT laminates don't have grout lines to negotiate. We'll call it a tie.

Which is cheaper, tiles or laminate?

We've left the biggest question until last, namely because this is a little like asking 'how long a is a piece of string?'

In simple terms, you could buy a semi-decent laminate floor for around £15 per sq m, although you're likely to pay closer to £30 per sq m for a quality waterproof design.

A Quick Look at Topps Tiles' website suggests the cheapest tiles you can buy that are suitable for a kitchen floor cost £16.80 per sq m. But you could easily spend upwards of £100 per sq m for a beautiful encaustic design. So on that basis, both can be affordable, but tiles have a broader cost bracket, depending on the design you pick.

The other main cost will be installation. Check-A-Trade quotes the UK average of laminate flooring installation as costing between £30 and £60 per sq m, with an average of £45 per sq m. Tiles, on the other hand, cost far more, at £110 per sq m according to Check-A-Trade.

Verdict: When you factor in material costs, and the fact that laminate installation is an easier DIY job, we say laminate is generally much cheaper as an option than tiles. If you're a skilled DIYer and choose affordable tiles, they can be fitted to a small budget, but ultimately, laminate wins.

Tiles vs Laminate: the overall verdict

Hopefully our guide has given you some flooring food for thought. But here's our final verdict, based on what our experts have told us:

Choose tiles if:

• You want maximum water resistance for a spill-prone kitchen.
• Durability is your top priority and your kitchen suffers from. heavy people and pet traffic, perhaps because it leads directly from your garden.
• You have underfloor heating – tiles conduct and retain heat very well.
• You prefer a premium, long-lasting finish that can last decades if installed properly.
• You like the look of patterned flooring for a more design-led space.

Choose laminate if:

• You’re working with a tighter budget but still want a stylish finish.
• You want a warmer, softer feel underfoot compared with hard tiles.
• Quick and easy installation matters – laminate is often DIY-friendly.
• You love the look of wood flooring but want something more affordable.
• Your kitchen is relatively low-spill and you’re careful about wiping up water quickly.
• You want a faster renovation without the mess of tile adhesive and grout.

If you've made a decision, make sure you don't make any mistakes in installing laminate flooring or why not borwse our kitchen floor tile ideas?

But we'll leave the last word to our expert, Harriet. "Ultimately, homeowners are spoilt for choice," she says. "Both tiles and laminate can offer stylish, versatile and hardwearing flooring for a kitchen. It really comes down to how you use the space and what matters most to you, whether that’s warmth underfoot, ease of installation, a seamless look or maximum resistance to moisture. Taking the time to weigh up those priorities will help you find the right fit for your home."

When budgets are under pressure, it’s tempting to see flooring as a place to cut corners. But as one of the hardest-working surfaces in your home, choosing the best kitchen flooring is still something that deserves careful thought, even if you’re renovating on a tight budget.

Kitchens today don't only serve as functional work zones. They frequently double as dining rooms and entertaining spaces all rolled into one, which means your flooring needs to cope with heavy foot traffic, dropped utensils and the occasional red wine spill. Thankfully, cheap kitchen flooring options have come a long way in both durability and design.

From realistic wood-effect vinyl to characterful ceramic tiles, there are plenty of cost-effective materials that don’t look or feel ‘budget’. Below, we break down the best affordable kitchen flooring options, along with expert advice on installation and where homeowners often go wrong.

What is the best affordable kitchen flooring?

1. Luxury Vinyl Flooring (LVT)

“When selecting affordable kitchen flooring, I’d choose either LVT flooring (luxury vinyl tile) or SPC (stone plastic composite, which is also a type of vinyl),” says Graeme Shelley, managing director at Factory Direct Flooring. “Both are very easy to clean, deal with moisture very well, and the thicker varieties are ideal for kitchens with heavy foot traffic. LVT is the better option of the two if budget is at the top of your priority list, but SPC typically lasts longer and is stronger than standard LVT, making it cope better with everyday use.”

Depending on thickness, LVT typically lasts 10–25 years if properly maintained. “Thicker varieties are particularly worthwhile in high-traffic areas, which is almost always true for kitchens,” Graeme adds. “I’d recommend LVT around the 6mm thickness mark for kitchens, which should last 20+ years.”

SPC, thanks to its rigid core made from limestone, stabilisers and polymer, can last even longer – around 25–30 years when well maintained. Roll vinyl, meanwhile, generally lasts 10–20 years.

Costs:

• Vinyl flooring typically starts from around £8.50 per m²
• LVT from £16.99 per m²
• SPC from £19.98 per m²

Shop LVT flooring

2. Ceramic Floor Tiles

“Ceramic kitchen floor tiles tend to be one of the most budget-friendly and practical options for kitchens,” says Camilla Masi, interior designer at Otto Tiles & Design.

There’s often a perception that ceramic means glossy or flat-looking, but many contemporary designs now feature nuanced, artisanal matt finishes that feel far more considered. “These finishes add subtle depth and texture, which helps the floor feel much more expensive than it actually is,” Camilla explains.

Ceramic tiles are also hard-wearing and easy to clean, making them well suited to high-traffic areas. Many matt finishes are naturally slip-resistant, which is a valuable practical feature in busy kitchens.

A well-made ceramic floor tile can last for decades with minimal maintenance – just be sure to clean them with pH-neutral products to preserve the surface.

Costs: Expect to pay from around £15–£35 per m² for standard ceramic floor tiles, depending on size and finish.

3. Porcelain Floor Tiles

“For kitchens, we most often recommend porcelain tile,” says Grazzie Wilson, head of creative at Ca' Pietra. “It remains one of the most practical and cost-effective materials available because it combines durability, low maintenance and strong design flexibility at an accessible price point.”

In a space that sees regular footfall, spillages and temperature fluctuations, porcelain performs consistently well. Plus, it’s denser and less porous than its ceramic cousin, which makes it particularly resistant to moisture.

What's more, even affordable porcelain tiles can convincingly replicate terracotta, marble or encaustic patterns, allowing homeowners to achieve a high-end look without the cost or maintenance of natural materials.

“A well-made porcelain floor, even at an accessible price point, should last decades if correctly installed and maintained,” Grazzie adds. With proper preparation, quality grout and routine cleaning, cheap porcelain flooring can remain stable and visually consistent for many years.

Costs: Budget porcelain tiles often start from around £20–£40 per m².

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How much should you spend on cheap kitchen flooring?

How much you should budget for your kitchen floor ideas depends on several factors: the type of flooring you choose, the size of your kitchen, how much preparation the subfloor requires and whether you plan to install it yourself.

Most kitchen flooring is priced per square metre, so the overall cost will largely depend on the size of your space. With the average UK kitchen measuring around 14m², and allowing an additional 10% for wastage, homeowners could expect to spend roughly £130–£310 on materials alone at the lower end of the price spectrum.

DIY installation can keep costs down, particularly for click-fit LVT or straightforward tile formats. However, it’s important to be realistic about the time, tools and physical labour involved. If mistakes mean starting again, any initial savings can quickly disappear.

If hiring a professional installer, expect to pay approximately £225–£300 per day, depending on location and complexity. While it adds to the upfront cost, professional fitting can significantly extend the life of your flooring.

How to choose cheap tiles for a luxury finish

The hidden costs

“The most common mistake is focusing purely on cost per square metre,” warns Camilla Masi. When budget becomes the sole driver, important considerations like the subfloor, tile finish and maintenance requirements can be overlooked.

Additional costs such as sealing, specialist adhesives, levelling compounds or underlay should always be factored in. “Even on a tight budget, it’s important to balance cost with performance and usability,” Camilla explains. "Speaking with a knowledgeable tile showroom about how a tile will wear, how it should be sealed or cleaned, and whether it’s suitable for floor use can make a significant difference to your overall costs and how well it performs over time.”

Prioritising appearance over practicality

“Another common mistake with tiles is trying to replicate the look of a more expensive material without considering how it will actually function as a floor,” says Camilla Masi.

“Large formats, slippery finishes or tiles that don’t suit the scale of the space can all cause problems. Likewise, many porcelain tiles are designed to imitate other materials, such as marble or timber, and can end up feeling visually flat or inauthentic once installed.”

Installation issues

Laying kitchen floor tiles on a DIY basis can help keep costs down, but cutting corners during installation can prove expensive later down the line.

“Kitchens are unforgiving environments for poor installation,” warns Grazzie Wilson. . “An uneven subfloor, inadequate adhesive coverage or rushed setting times can lead to issues that are expensive to rectify. If the space is large, open-plan or includes underfloor heating, professional installation is often advisable. The cost of fitting is typically a smaller proportion of the overall project than people assume, and it protects the longevity of the floor.”

How to give LVT flooring an expensive look?

Don't choose low-grade options

“Very low-grade laminates or soft vinyl products can be problematic in kitchens,” warns Grazzie Wilson. While they may appear cost-effective initially, she says they’re often vulnerable to moisture, particularly around joins and edges. Once water penetrates, swelling and lifting can follow. Investing slightly more in a thicker, more durable product can significantly extend the life of your flooring.

Opt for good preparation and installation

“Skipping prep is a big mistake,” warns Graeme Shelley. “Your subfloor must be level, dry and clean before laying new flooring, and materials should be allowed to acclimatise for around 48 hours prior to installation.”

Laying flooring on an uneven surface can result in misaligned planks, gaps and premature wear. “It’s not just an aesthetics issue,” Graeme explains. “Gaps can allow moisture and debris in, undermining the integrity of the floor.” Taking the time to properly prepare the base will ensure even the most budget-friendly flooring looks professional and lasts longer.

FAQs

Is cheap kitchen flooring less durable?

Not necessarily. Price doesn’t always reflect performance, especially with modern materials like LVT and porcelain. Many affordable options can last 15–30 years when properly installed and maintained. The key difference tends to be thickness, wear layer (for vinyl) and installation quality, rather than whether a product sits in a “budget” collection.

What is the easiest budget kitchen flooring to maintain?

Vinyl flooring, including LVT and SPC, is generally the easiest to maintain, as it’s water-resistant, doesn’t require sealing and can be cleaned with a simple sweep and mop. Porcelain tiles are also low maintenance due to their low porosity, just make sure grout lines are properly sealed and cleaned regularly to prevent staining.

What is the cheapest way to floor a kitchen?

Sheet vinyl (also known as roll vinyl) is typically the lowest-cost option upfront. It can start from around £8–£10 per square metre and is relatively DIY-friendly. However, homeowners should factor in subfloor preparation and lifespan. Paying slightly more for a thicker LVT or entry-level porcelain tile may offer better long-term value

Is laminate flooring suitable for kitchens on a budget?

Laminate can work in kitchens, but it must be moisture-resistant and properly installed. Lower-grade laminate is vulnerable to swelling if water seeps into the joins. If spills are common or the kitchen is heavily used, waterproof LVT or porcelain is usually a safer long-term choice.

Can you use engineered wood in a budget kitchen renovation?

“Engineered flooring is considered one of the best and most suitable for the kitchen," says Natalie Mudd, co-founder of Knot & Grain. "The top layer is made entirely of solid wood, bonded to a layer of extremely strong plywood beneath and a stabilising backing layer. This layered design balances out the tensions in the wood and in turn, prevents the wood from bending or swelling in areas of changing moisture, such as the kitchen."

However, engineered wood is not usually a budget option, costing around £40-£75m². "For those looking to reduce costs while maintaining an aesthetically pleasing floor should consider long planks," adds Natalie. "Quicker to install and requires less cutting and therefore less wastage.”

What flooring should never be used in a kitchen?

“For me, carpet is a no-no in a kitchen,” warns Graeme Shelley. “You need something that can withstand spills, splashes and frequent cleaning, and carpet simply isn’t designed for that kind of environment.”

In kitchens, natural flooring and absorbent materials can quickly become unhygienic and difficult to maintain. Instead, opt for water-resistant, easy-clean options that are designed to cope with these conditions.

Because the kitchen sees so much daily wear, it pays to take your time when selecting flooring. For more guidance, explore our guide to laminate flooring, as well as our in-depth comparison of vinyl vs laminate options.

Basements have come a long way from their dark, dingy reputation. Today, they’re just as likely to house home offices, guest bedrooms or gyms – which means the finishes you choose matter just as much as those elsewhere in the house.

Flooring, however, is one area where basements still play by slightly different rules. Being below ground means cooler temperatures and higher moisture levels, so materials that work beautifully upstairs don’t always perform as well below. Thankfully, there are plenty of options that balance good looks with the durability a basement conversion demands.

From sleek concrete finishes to realistic engineered wood, this guide explores the best basement flooring. We weigh up the pros and cons of each, look at typical costs and expected lifespan, and explain how the way you plan to use your basement should shape your final decision.

What to consider before choosing basement flooring

Basements behave very differently from rooms above ground, which is why the types of flooring you consider should be guided by performance first and appearance second. Because they sit below ground level, basements are more exposed to moisture, fluctuating humidity and cooler temperatures, all of which can have a direct impact on how well flooring performs over time.

Sue Taylor, director at Complete Construction Products, says basements are often underestimated. “They don’t always get the same level of consideration as other rooms in the house, but they really should,” she explains. “Cheaper flooring options can struggle if the conditions aren’t right – low-end engineered wood or laminate can swell if moisture gets in, budget vinyl can wear quickly in high-traffic areas, and cheaper porcelain tiles may crack if the subfloor isn’t perfectly level.”

Moisture management is one of the most important factors to get right from the outset. According to property care expert Barrie Francis from Timberwise, many basement flooring failures can be traced back to poor waterproofing design or inadequate preparation. Moisture vapour rising through concrete slabs can break down adhesives, cause warping and encourage mould growth, while plumbing leaks, seasonal humidity swings and missing vapour barriers can all accelerate problems.

That’s why preparation matters just as much as the flooring finish itself. “Proper waterproofing design and installation creates a stable, dry foundation that allows the flooring system to perform as intended long term,” Barrie explains. In practical terms, this means moisture testing, addressing drainage issues, ensuring the slab is level and sound, and using the correct membranes or underlays where required.

As a final sense check, Graeme Shelley, managing director at Factory Direct Flooring, advises homeowners to think beyond the product alone. “Basements typically run colder and can be prone to damp if they’re not well ventilated,” he says. “Measuring moisture levels, insulating the space properly and using a moisture barrier underlay – unless the flooring already has one built in – can make all the difference.”

How you plan to use the basement matters when choosing flooring

How you plan to use your basement should be one of the first considerations when choosing flooring. According to Barrie Francis, different uses place very different demands on the floor. “A storage or utility basement can handle basic, inexpensive options like sealed concrete or rubber flooring,” he explains. “But a basement used as living space needs flooring that feels warm, quiet and comfortable underfoot.”

Sue Taylor from Complete Construction Products, agrees that function should guide both specification and budget. “If a basement is properly tanked, insulated and ventilated, and used mainly for storage with low foot traffic, it may be possible to save on flooring,” she says. “But spaces converted into offices, busy family rooms or home gyms have much higher demands.”

Ultimately, matching the flooring to how the basement will be used – as well as how it’s built – is what determines how well it performs over time. Get that balance right, and the space is far more likely to feel comfortable and fit for everyday life.

Should you stick with concrete floors in a basement?

Practical, resilient and naturally suited to life below ground, concrete flooring works well for workshops and contemporary conversions alike. Whether left exposed, sealed or as polished concrete, it offers a clean, pared-back look that doesn’t try to fight the realities of a basement environment.

“Concrete floors are much more tolerant of basement conditions than organic materials,” explains Sue Taylor. “They cope well with moisture and movement, provided the base and finish are done properly.”

What you need to know

While concrete itself is robust, the quality of preparation and finishing still matters. “Poor-quality mixes or coatings can crack or stain over time and may need repairs,” says Sue. She explains that surface preparation, levelling and sealing are all essential to ensure long-term performance, particularly in basements that experience fluctuating temperatures or heavier use.

Concrete floors can feel hard and cool underfoot, so they’re often paired with underfloor heating, rugs or soft furnishings in living spaces. But in more utilitarian areas, that toughness is often part of the appeal. Insulating concrete floors can also be a consideration.

Costs and long-term value

Concrete can be one of the most cost-effective basement flooring options if the existing slab is in good condition, as it avoids adding extra layers or floor build-up. Higher-quality finishes, such as polished or resin-coated concrete, come at a higher upfront cost but offer excellent longevity. As Sue explains, “Better-quality options generally cope better with moisture, movement and everyday wear, which means they last longer and perform more reliably over time.”

Should you use floor tiles in a basement?

Porcelain and ceramic floor tiles are a natural fit for basements, where durability and moisture resistance are a top priority. Available in a huge range of style and colours, this type of flooring offers a clean, hardwearing surface that won’t be affected by damp or humidity levels. With the right finish, tile can also feel surprisingly refined.

“Hard finishes like porcelain cope very well with moisture,” explains Sue Taylor. “They don’t swell, warp or deteriorate when humidity levels change, which makes them a reliable choice for basements.”

What you need to know

“Cheaper porcelain tiles can crack more easily if the subfloor isn’t perfectly level,” cautions Sue. A flat, stable base is essential – so if you plan on DIYing your basement tiling it’s important to swot up on how to tile an uneven floor first. In many cases an uncoupling membrane is also recommended to help absorb minor movement in the slab below and reduce the risk of tiles cracking over time.

Costs and long-term value

If you want to keep your basement conversion costs down, ceramic tiles tend to be more affordable than porcelain (which sits at a much higher price point due to its density and durability). Installation costs can also be higher than vinyl or laminate floors, but tile offers excellent longevity with minimal maintenance.

Can you use luxury vinyl flooring in a basement?

"If you want a floor that feels polished and pulled together without demanding perfect conditions, luxury vinyl flooring is one of the best-performing options for basement environments,” says Neel Bradham, CEO of flooring brand Parador. “It’s dimensionally stable, moisture-resistant and designed to cope with fluctuating conditions without compromising on design.”

Modern LVT has also come a long way aesthetically. With increasingly convincing wood and stone finishes, it offers the look of natural materials while delivering a level of practicality that’s far better suited to life below ground. As Neel puts it, “It gives homeowners the confidence to prioritise design without taking on unnecessary risk.”

What you need to know

“One of the biggest mistakes we see time and again is assuming waterproof flooring removes the need for proper preparation,” says Neel. “Getting the subfloor right is what ensures the floor performs as it should long term.” He says the subfloor should be clean, level and dry, and a suitable damp-proof underlay is often recommended to protect against residual rising moisture.

Unlike laminate or real wood, luxury vinyl won’t swell or warp if humidity levels rise, making it a far safer option in basements where moisture control is good but not perfect. Many LVT products are also compatible with underfloor heating.

Costs and long-term value

Luxury vinyl's durability and low maintenance requirements mean it holds up well over time, even in high-traffic basement spaces. “By choosing a floor that’s engineered for challenging conditions,” says Neel, “homeowners can achieve a high-end aesthetic while avoiding costly replacements further down the line.”

Does laminate flooring work well in basements?

Laminate flooring can work in basements where budgets are tight and moisture levels are well managed – but it’s a choice that needs a little more care than some alternatives. When used in hobby rooms or lightly used living spaces, it can offer a warm, finished look without the higher upfront cost of real timber or LVT.

That said, laminate isn’t naturally suited to damp conditions. “One of the biggest mistakes homeowners make is assuming laminate is waterproof,” explains David Turner, head of product at Leader Flooring. “Most laminate is only water-resistant, meaning it can cope with spills for a short time but not prolonged humidity or moisture.”

What you need to know

Laminate is not suitable for basements with unresolved damp, poor ventilation or a history of water ingress. It’s also less forgiving than LVT if conditions change later on. For laminate to perform well below ground, a high-quality damp-proof underlay is essential and all joints should be carefully sealed to help protect against rising damp and humidity.

“Checking the subfloor’s moisture content before installation is non-negotiable,” says David Turner. “Even small amounts of moisture can cause boards to swell, lift or separate over time.”

Costs and long-term value

Laminate is one of the more affordable flooring options, making it appealing if you're converting a basement with a limited budget. However, its lifespan below ground is typically shorter than vinyl or tile, particularly in spaces that see regular use. As David notes, “Laminate can be a sensible short- to medium-term solution, but it’s important to be realistic about longevity if moisture control isn’t perfect.”

Can you use engineered wood flooring in a basement?

A well-designed basement doesn’t have to feel separate from the rest of your home – and engineered wood can play a big part in achieving that. When used in family rooms, home offices or guest bedrooms, “its natural warmth helps soften what can otherwise feel like a cool, enclosed area,” explains Christof Schirlbauer, owner of Waxed Floors. “Lighter tones are particularly effective in basements, as they reflect light and help brighten spaces with limited natural daylight.”

What you need to know

Engineered wood flooring is still an organic material, so it’s best reserved for basement conversions where moisture levels are well controlled. It’s less suited to storage areas, utility spaces or rooms where damp hasn’t been fully resolved.

“For engineered wood to perform well below ground, the subfloor needs to be fully dry and stable,” explains Christof Schirlbauer, "So moisture testing should always be carried out before installation". As a general guide, he says traditional sand and cement screeds should be below 2% moisture content or under 75% relative humidity, while anhydrite screeds require even lower levels.

Costs and long-term value

Engineered wood typically costs more upfront than alternatives, but it can offer reassuring long-term value in a basement conversion. “Natural oil finishes allow the floor to be refreshed and re-oiled over time rather than replaced,” says Christof. “For homeowners creating a basement they plan to live in for years, engineered wood can age beautifully.”

What other flooring alternatives do experts recommend?

Alongside the main flooring options, experts often point to a handful of more specialist alternatives that work well in basements with specific demands.

For home gyms, playrooms or workshop spaces, rubber flooring is a common recommendation. Its shock-absorbing surface makes it practical for high-impact use, while its moisture resistance suits below-ground conditions.

For homeowners leaning into a more industrial or contemporary look, epoxy or resin coatings applied over concrete are another option – these specialist finishes create a seamless, hardwearing surface that copes well with moisture.

Cork tiles are sometimes recommended for basement living spaces thanks to their warmth and sound-absorbing qualities, but most experts advise caution. “Unless moisture levels and ventilation are very well controlled, organic materials and natural flooring – including carpet – can struggle below ground,” explains Graeme Shelley from Factory Direct Flooring.

Another space in the home that requires careful thought is the garage. If you’re planning a garage conversion, our guide to garage conversion flooring explains the best options to use, helping you choose a floor that’s practical, durable and suited to everyday living.

You may have identified your dream tiles for tiling a kitchen wall, splashback or floor in your home – but choosing the ideal tiling patterns when laying your tiles will be just as important to the finished look of the space.

There are several popular tiling patterns, including straight lay, running bond, diagonal, herringbone, basketweave and chevron. Each option has implications for the laying process, finished look and function of the tiled surface.

We asked tiling experts about the pros and cons of the most popular tile patterns – and how each layout could play into your home renovation.

1. Straight lay

In a straight lay pattern, square or rectangular tiles of equal size are laid in a simple, continuous grid, with all of the joints lining up perfectly.

“We call this pattern ‘square bond’, and it’s normally the easiest to lay because you just lay each tile to follow the joints of the last,” says Ryan Renforth of R.I Tiling Specialists. “You can work out your cuts for the edge tiles easily, because they’ll all be one size.”

Ryan advises that a straight lay pattern tends to look best with large tiles. “If you’re using smaller tiles, I’d usually recommend a brick bond layout instead,” he says.

According to Kate Cadman, Collections Curator at the Ironbridge Gorge Museum Trust, which runs Jackfield Tile Museum, the availability of square tiles boomed during the industrial revolution, as mass producers set up shop in areas including Shropshire and Staffordshire.

“Manufacturers offered mix-and-match square tiles, often 6 x 6 inches, with certain standard colours and repeating patterns that could be put together in different arrangements,” she says. “This provided options for doing hallways, square rooms, tiling a wall and various other uses, depending on how the tiles were laid out.”

2. Running bond (brick or offset)

Running bond tiling is set out like brickwork, with a few variations offering slightly different looks and structural qualities. You’ll recognise this category of tiling patterns from public spaces such as underground stations, as well as home interiors.

“It’s often done using subway-style metro tiles, which are normally rectangular and straight,” says Ryan Renforth.

The key variants of running bond are:

• Brick bond – each row is offset by 50% of a tile’s width from the row above
• Offset bond – each row offset by less than 50%
• Third bond – each row is offset by one third

Traditionally, running bond patterns are laid horizontally, but vertical arrangements are increasingly popular.

Whatever the orientation, these patterns are mostly used on walls, often when tiling bathrooms or kitchens. This is linked to their structural strength, with each tile supported by two tiles beneath it, as well as by adhesive. With that said, running bond is sometimes used with floor tiles too – especially with large kitchen floor tiles.

“Wall patterns like brickwork with alternate courses give you a stronger bond onto the wall,” says Kate Cadman. “If the tiles were in a grid, one tile getting loose means the tile above it is not supported.”

If using a running bond laying pattern, think carefully about the size of the tiles. “Doing it with big tiles can make a room feel smaller, whereas using smaller tiles can make the space feel large,” advises Ryan Renforth.

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3. Diagonal

Much like tile materials or tile decoration, a tile laying pattern can be an aesthetic feature which adds beauty, interest or movement to an interior design.

One popular option for visual impact is a diagonal (or ‘diamond’) laying pattern, which is essentially a straight lay pattern on a tilt.

“We call this pattern ‘on the 45’, as the tiles are at a 45-degree angle,” says Ryan Renforth. “Over the last 20 years or so it has fallen out of fashion in wall tiling, but it’s really effective for traditional floor tiling with natural stone tiles, or in a checkerboard pattern with two colours.”

A diagonal or diamond laying pattern is commonly used in small spaces such as in hallway flooring ideas, with its diagonal lines producing the illusion of a larger area. The main downside is that cutting the triangular edge pieces is relatively difficult and can lead to considerable wastage.

4. Herringbone

Herringbone tiling has made a style statement in lovingly decorated homes since ancient times, seeing spikes in popularity in the Victorian period and the early 20th century.

“You see little bits of herringbone in Medieval tiling, and I think in some cases it’s actually practical in that it gives you a better surface, especially on floors,” says Kate Cadman. “If tiles are in a grid of straight lines you can get faults running through them, whereas with herringbone the pressure is spread differently so you get a stronger surface.”

Traditionally, a herringbone pattern is made up of diagonally zig-zagging rows of tiles which nest vertically into angled columns, reminiscent of a herring’s ribs.

“It’s all the rage at the moment, but it’s also one of the most difficult patterns to lay – a lot of tilers don’t do it because they find it too tricky, particularly when it comes to wrapping the pattern around corners on walls,” says Ryan Renforth.

“You can make the job easier by doing a straight herringbone pattern which is at 90 degrees, so all of the cuts that meet the walls are straight. But the traditional 45-degree herringbone with angled cuts at the sides is probably the more popular option.”

5. Basketweave

Among the more sophisticated tiling patterns currently favoured by many interior designers, a basketweave layout uses multiple tile sizes to create a weave or lattice effect.

“This style seems to be getting a little more popular – we’ve done a few basketweave floors in recent years,” says Ryan Renforth. “It’s a lot easier to lay than herringbone or chevron. Assuming you’re using rectangular tiles, it’s just a repetitive pattern and straight cuts for the edge tiles.”

Basketweave is a traditional pattern, previously popular in arts and crafts homes. Some homeowners simply straight lay a grid of tiles printed with a basketweave design to approximate the look of this laying pattern with minimal effort.

6. Chevron

Not to be confused with herringbone, a chevron laying pattern is made up of zig-zag rows where each tile meets the tiles on either side with a vertical join, creating a V-shaped pattern.

“This pattern came into fashion a while back, but seems to have disappeared over the last five years while a lot of people been going for herringbone instead,” says Ryan Renforth. “It looks good but is possibly the most difficult of all patterns to lay, because getting the angles right is really tricky.”

The history of chevron patterns in tiling and household decoration goes back centuries, possibly with chivalric roots, according to Kate Cadman.

Key considerations when choosing a laying pattern

Above all, choosing the best tile pattern for your flooring or wall is a matter of personal taste. A tiled surface can be purely functional, or it can be for a decorative feature wall, providing opportunity to put your stamp on large areas of the home.

“Sometimes the reasons to lay tiles in a certain pattern are practical, sometimes they’re aesthetic, and it’s often a combination of both,” confirms Kate Cadman.

With that said, there are some practical factors to bear in mind. More complicated laying patterns such as chevron or diagonal tend to add cost, due to increased tile wastage and labour (and possibly a smaller choice of willing tilers!) Some patterns require tiles in a specific shape, as is true of herringbone, which must be made up of rectangular tiles.

Also consider the grout lines that will be created by your chosen laying pattern, as these may stand out more than the tiles themselves. The lines can draw the eye or make a space feel larger, so you might choose to highlight them with a contrasting grout colour for heightened effect.

FAQs

What’s the best way to choose a tiling pattern to suit a period property?

If you're renovating a Victorian house or period property, you might choose to lay tiles in patterns that match trends from the building’s era. Kate Cadman recommends seeking advice from an expert source such as the Tiles & Architectural Ceramics Society, as it can be difficult to find clear information on how certain laying patterns have been used during specific periods.

Where a historic property has retained original features that you’d like to make a focus, architect, Theo Jones, of Fynn suggests taking a ‘less is more’ approach to choosing a tile laying pattern.

“Always focus on what best supports the architecture, not just what looks good on Pinterest,” he says, “and consider that you’re often paying for the glaze, colour, texture or material of the tiles. Over-complicating the pattern can distract from that material quality rather than elevating it.”

How can I make a complicated tiling pattern blend into an interior design?

Elaborate tiling patterns such as herringbone or chevron can make a positive aesthetic impact, but Theo Jones advises that it’s important to account for how the pattern is assimilated into the home.

“If a pattern ends into a corner and stops abruptly, it can look unresolved, so consider adding a border, a plain margin or a deliberate frame,” he says. “The Victorian tiled hallway is a classic reference because it nearly always uses a simpler border to make the pattern feel intentional. If the pattern can’t turn a corner without awkward cuts or obvious discontinuity, it may be the wrong pattern for that space, or it needs a border to handle the transition.”

Need more tiling inspiration? Read our roundups of the best bathroom tiling ideas, kitchen floor tile ideas and before you start, make sure you know the most common tiling mistakes so you can avoid them.

Want to know how to lay kitchen floor tiles? There’s plenty to consider and many choices to make to ensure your kitchen floor looks good and lasts. Before laying any tiles, you’ll need to decide which type of tile suits your style and budget.

Then, you must make the right design decisions. Will your selected tiles match your kitchen ideas? Getting it wrong can be an expensive mistake. After that, check and prepare the floor correctly. If you skip this step, you might find yourself replacing tiles sooner than you'd like. Here, we guide you to make the right choices to achieve the kitchen floor you desire.

Best type of tile to use on a kitchen floor

There are several options for kitchen floor tiles, but porcelain tiles are a popular choice. Abbas Youssefi, managing director of Porcelain Superstore, shares why. “For most modern kitchens, porcelain tiles are the go-to choice. They’re dense, durable, and handle everyday family life without easily marking. They also work brilliantly with underfloor heating, and the latest designs convincingly mimic the look of natural stone without the upkeep.”

Isabel Fernandez, director of Quorn Stone recommends porcelain or natural stone, “Porcelain is durable, low-maintenance and water-resistant, while natural stone adds timeless character and texture.”

But, points out Stephen Russell, tiler at Ashley Cross Tiling, “ Choice is a complete personal preference.” He adds, “Porcelain and stone are both hard-wearing, but ceramic tiles are typically the budget option.”

Youssefi suggests an alternative budget option, “If you're on a tighter budget, LVT tiles are typically the most affordable option; but for longevity, porcelain is hard to beat.”

Try these to help lay kitchen floor tiles

How to prep the floor for kitchen tiles

How you prep the floor depends on the type of floor you have. The easiest floor to work with is typically concrete. Russell explains how to prep, “If a concrete or screeded floor is flat, no preparation is needed. However, if the floor is uneven, use self-levelling compound to even out the floor and use powdered floor adhesive for all these types of floors.”

If you have a wooden floor or floorboards, you need to prep differently, explains Colin Lincoln-Evans, Buyer at Tile Mountain, “In the UK, tiling directly onto old floorboards is a common cause of cracked grout and loose tiles. The best practice is to use a high-quality cement-based tile backer board, securely fixed and fully supported, to create a rigid, stable surface.”

Russell says, “Use cement board screwed down every six inches.” He adds, “Use a mask if cutting it with an angle grinder.”

If you are tiling over underfloor heating, Russell says, “Use self-levelling compound to cover the wires. Then use floor tile adhesive to lay the tiles as normal.” He adds, “At no point should you use nails or screws for any reason as these could damage the heating wires.”

Lincoln-Evans adds, “It’s essential to use flexible tile adhesive and grout to cope with thermal movement, with larger format tiles, an anti-fracture membrane should be considered.”

Where to start laying kitchen floor tiles

The shape of the room can have a bearing on where you start, but Isabel Fernandez points out the common option, “A common starting point is the centre of the room. This ensures the pattern stays balanced and cut tiles are positioned along the edges where they are less noticeable, giving a neat, considered finish.”

To ensure that you get the best finish, Russell says, “Measure out the room to gauge where you will get the biggest cut tiles to walls and units.” He adds, “Small cuts look bad and are hard to cut. Avoid at all costs.”

After measuring up, Youssefi says, “It’s worth dry-laying a few tiles first; it only takes a minute and gives you a clear feel for the best place to begin.”

What you’ll need to lay kitchen floor tiles

To tile a kitchen floor properly, Youssefi suggests the following gear.

• Tile adhesive and grout - use a powdered adhesive
• Notched trowel - the size depends on tile size (often 10mm for floors)
• Tile spacers or levelling clips - to keep joints even
• Tile cutter - manual for straight cuts, electric wet cutter for more awkward cut-outs (thy thos for heavy duty tiles (Excel 920mm Bridge Wet Tile Cutter from B&Q)
• Rubber mallet & spirit level - to keep tiles flat as you go - (try this Tough Master Spirit Level Set from Amazon)
• Grout float - to work the grout into the tiles (try this QEP Molded Rubber Grout Float from Amazon)
• Silicone - for movement joints around the edges
• Buckets, sponge and mixing paddle - simple but essential

Stephen Russell recommends the following tools, “Wet cutters are best for DIYers as floor tiles can be very hard to cut.” He adds, “A deep-notch trowel is needed as tiles need to be buttered on the back as well as putting adhesive on the floor.”

He adds, “Use a gauge trowel (like this OX Pro Brick Trowel from Amazon) to knock up the adhesive if you don’t have a drill with a mixer (like this Silverline Mixing Paddle from Amazon). In addition, he adds, “Buckets, grout float, pencil and sponges to clean as you go, and for wiping of excess grout when grouting.”

Tips for laying kitchen floor tiles

1. Choosing the right pattern

This can depend on the tile chosen; some are more straightforward than others. Fernandez says, “Classic patterns like a straight grid or running bond work well in kitchens.” If doing the floor DIY, it's best to stick to simple straight-line patterns. But herringbone and stretcher bond patterns add interest.

2. Open up space with large tiles

Fernandez extols the virtues of larger floor tiles: “Larger tiles can make a space feel more open.” However, she adds, “Consider the room size."

Lincoln-Evans adds, “Larger format tiles can make a kitchen feel more spacious because there are fewer grout lines breaking up the floor, but they do demand a flatter subfloor and benefit from a tile-levelling system to keep lippage to a minimum.”

3. Applying adhesive

Adding adhesive is straightforward, Russell says, “Apply adhesive to the floor using a deep-notch trowel and butter the back of the tile to form a good bond.” If new to tiling, have a few practice runs first.

4. Clean as you go

“Clean as you go” is Fernandez's advice. Russell adds, “Clean the face of tiles and the joints as you go, as this is easier than trying to clean set tile adhesive.” Make sure you have a sponge and a bucket of clean water with you when working.

FAQs

How long does floor adhesive take to dry?

This will depend on what floor tile adhesive has been used, explains Youssefi, “If you’ve used rapid-set adhesive, you can normally walk on the tiles later the same day. With standard adhesive, it’s best to wait until the next morning, and avoid placing heavy furniture on the floor for at least 24 hours.”

What is the ideal spacer size for kitchen floor tiles?

Abbas Youssefi suggests a variety of spacer sizes, “For most modern rectified porcelain tiles, a 2mm spacer provides the neatest, most contemporary finish. These tiles are cut with precise edges, so they sit closer together without appearing cramped.”

However, if you have a different tile or layout, he suggests an alternative, “For other styles - such as modular layouts, herringbone patterns or tiles with chipped or wavy edges - a slightly wider joint often works better.”

He adds, “A 3mm joint gives these patterns better definition and allows for the small variations that come with this style of tile.”You can use larger spacers if you prefer this style; 10mm is the maximum recommended size.

If you’re undecided about what kitchen floor tiles you want, then you need to check out our kitchen floor tile ideas. Alternatively, see our kitchen vinyl flooring ideas. If thinking of what else you can do in your kitchen, check our kitchen island ideas for inspiration.

Choosing the right flooring for a dining room isn’t always straightforward. Carpet might sound appealing – it’s soft underfoot and instantly makes the space feel warm and inviting – but the dining area sits right at the crossroads of spills, crumbs and constant footfall, which can make it feel like a risky choice.

If you’ve ever wondered whether cosy underfoot comfort is worth the cleaning trade-off, you’re in good company. To help you decide, we spoke with flooring specialists who’ve seen the best – and the worst – of what happens when fabric meets food.

The benefits of carpet in a dining area

Carpet isn’t the first type of flooring most people consider for a dining space, but it does come with a few distinct advantages. Softness underfoot instantly makes the dining space feel more relaxed and can help turn an everyday eating area into a more defined, atmospheric zone.

Johanna Constantinou, interior trends expert at Tapi Carpets & Floors, agrees. “Carpet can absolutely work in a dining room – it simply depends on your lifestyle and priorities,” she says. “For families with young children, smooth flooring is often the most practical choice because spills can be wiped away in seconds. But for singles or couples, carpet can introduce warmth and softness into the dining room without the same level of worry around spills.”

When it comes to choosing a carpet that performs well in dining rooms, you should focus on a carpet that is hardwearing and suitable for a high-traffic area. It should also be easy to clean and stain-resistant. Low-pile or flat-weave options in polypropylene or nylon offer the best everyday durability, while wool carpet is a strong natural choice thanks to its inherent stain resistance – provided spills are cleaned up promptly.

Expert tip: Using felt pads under table legs – such as the Argos Home Felt Gard 25mm Round Pads – will help prevent fibres from crushing and keep the carpet looking good for longer.

The Practical Drawbacks of Carpet in Dining Areas

Much like carpet in a bathroom, carpet in a dining area comes with some unavoidable downsides, and Adam Robertson, managing director at Urbane Living, is clear about these limitations. “While carpet can feel luxurious underfoot, I'd generally steer clients away from it in dining areas,” he says.

“Dining spaces are prone to spills, stains and crumbs, and carpet simply isn't designed to withstand the inevitable wear and tear,” Robertson adds. “Even with stain-resistant treatments, red wine, coffee and food spills are difficult to remove completely. Plus, over time the area around the dining table will show visible wear and discolouration that's almost impossible to restore.”

There is also the practical reality of daily use. Chairs being pulled in and out can flatten or dent the pile, even on more durable loop constructions. For families with young children, or anyone who entertains regularly, the constant cycle of wiping, scrubbing and spot-cleaning can start to feel like more effort than it is worth.

From a long-term maintenance perspective, carpet simply demands more hands-on care than hard flooring. Regular deep cleaning is essential to stop food particles embedding in the fibres, yet the material remains vulnerable to staining, odours and gradual dulling.

Taken together, these factors mean carpet is not only harder to look after, it can also age faster in a dining space than elsewhere in the home. This is why many experts recommend flooring solutions that offer similar warmth without the same level of upkeep.

Alternative Flooring Options That Still Feel Warm

If you're not convinced carpet will stand up to daily life, there are plenty of alternatives to try. “A far better solution is engineered wood flooring paired with a large area rug,” says Adam Robertson. “This gives you the best of both worlds: the warmth and comfort of a soft surface underfoot, combined with the durability and easy maintenance of timber.”

With flooring such as engineered wood or luxury laminate, spills can be wiped away in seconds, and a rug can be cleaned professionally or even replaced, without the cost or disruption of swapping out fitted carpet. Robertson adds that a generously sized rug also “anchors the dining table and chairs, defines the eating zone within an open-plan space, and adds that layer of comfort that makes a room feel welcoming and finished.”

From a design perspective, engineered wood, laminate and vinyl floors also offer something carpet cannot: continuity. “Engineered wood flooring provides a clean, cohesive look that works across adjoining spaces,” Robertson explains, “which is particularly important in open-plan layouts where dining areas flow into living or kitchen zones.”

It is not only about aesthetics, though. Engineered wood is also known for its stability, something Ian Tomlinson, managing director at Chaunceys Timber Flooring, emphasises. “Engineered wood flooring is the best choice for dining rooms due to its structural stability,” he says. Unlike solid wood floors, engineered boards are designed to cope with changes in temperature and humidity, which makes them well suited to areas where moisture and spills are more likely. They're also suitable for installation over underfloor heating systems.

Shop engineered wood flooring

FAQs

What carpet is best for a dining room?

A dining room needs a carpet that can cope with crumbs, chair movement and the occasional spill. A low-profile design is usually the most practical, as it’s easier to vacuum and less prone to looking worn. Synthetic fibres tend to be the most forgiving day-to-day, while wool is a good natural option if you’re happy to keep on top of maintenance. Subtle patterns or heathered tones will also help the carpet stay looking fresher for longer.

What is the 'rule of thumb' for a dining room rug?

A dining room rug should be large enough for all the chair legs to sit comfortably on it, even when the chairs are pulled out. This stops the edges catching and creates a more grounded, intentional look beneath the table. A low-pile, easy-clean rug works best in busy homes, and choosing a flecked or subtly patterned design can help disguise everyday crumbs or marks.

Wondering what professional carpet installation costs look like? Our pricing guide has you covered. If you are planning a DIY approach instead, our expert guide on how to lay carpet will help you avoid common flooring mistakes from the start.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

Choosing where to buy bathroom flooring can make or break your renovation. With so many materials, finishes and retailers to explore online, knowing where to start can feel overwhelming.

The best bathroom retailers help your budget go further, offering designs that look bespoke without breaking the bank. And if you’re after something more luxurious, there’s no shortage of places to browse handmade tiles and beautifully engineered luxury vinyl flooring.

Your bathroom design deserves flooring that not only looks great but also stands up to moisture, heat and everyday use. So before you order samples or head to the checkout, take a look at our guide to the best places to buy bathroom flooring online.

Before you buy, decide which type of bathroom flooring is right for you

Before you decide where to buy bathroom flooring, take a moment to think about the type of finish that will really suit your space. Wooden flooring in a bathroom isn’t the best choice – as moisture can cause it to warp or swell over time – but there are plenty of wood-effect designs that offer the same warmth and texture without the worry. Bathroom vinyl flooring, on the other hand, is practical and easy to live with, especially if you’ve got kids splashing about.

For a more classic look, you can’t go wrong with bathroom floor tiles. From timeless marble-effect designs to bold patterned options, there's a finish to suit every style and personality . And while few people choose carpet in a bathroom these days, it still has its fans for creating a cosy, homely feel in low-moisture areas.

Where to buy bathroom flooring for every budget and style

Below is a selection of the best UK retailers that sell bathroom flooring. Prices are correct at the time of publication, but it’s worth checking each retailer’s website for the latest updates and any current offers.

• Wickes: A solid range of water-resistant vinyl, laminate and tile flooring designed for busy bathrooms.
• Mandarin Stone: High-end natural stone and porcelain tiles in timeless, design-led finishes.
• B&Q: Affordable, DIY-friendly vinyl, laminate and tile options suited to bathrooms of all styles.
• Tapi: Stylish and practical vinyl flooring in wood and stone effect designs made for wet areas.
• Porcelain Superstore: Contemporary ceramic and porcelain floor tiles that balance style with durability.
• Amazon: A wide mix of vinyl planks, peel-and-stick tiles and affordable flooring options.

Wickes

Wickes is a trusted name for practical bathroom updates, and their range of large format floor tiles is ideal for creating a spacious modern bathroom feel. With plenty of stone and marble-effect options to choose from, they're a smart choice for anyone looking to achieve a sleek but low-maintenance finish.

Mandarin Stone

Mandarin Stone is known for its high-end finishes and exceptional quality, offering natural stone and porcelain tiles that bring a truly luxurious feel to any bathroom. With beautiful textures and timeless colour palettes, it’s a go-to for design-conscious renovators.

B&Q

B&Q combines affordability with an impressive range of options, making it easy to find bathroom flooring that suits both your budget and your style. From water-resistant laminate to classic porcelain floor tiles, there’s something for every project size and price point.

Tapi

Tapi’s varied range of flooring includes realistic wood and stone effect vinyl tiles that deliver a premium look without the premium price tag.

Porcelain Superstore

Porcelain Superstore sells a curated collection of bathroom flooring that can be filtered by size, colour, shape and style, making it easy to find the perfect fit for your space. They also stock a great range of coloured grouts and tiling tools, ideal for anyone taking the DIY route and tiling a floor themselves.

Amazon

Online retail giant Amazon has a surprisingly wide choice of bathroom flooring, including convenient peel-and-stick tiles for quick and affordable makeovers. It’s an easy option for DIYers looking for instant results.

For something a bit more contemporary, microcement bathrooms are gaining attention for their smooth, seamless finish and soft, tactile feel. These modern floors are compatible with underfloor heating and a stylish alternative to traditional tiles.

I'll admit to feeling sceptical about trying the Philips OneUp 5000 Series Electric Mop, wondering if it was an indulgence I just didn't need. It falls on the side of expensive, and it wasn't something I'd ever thought of purchasing.

But, with my love of a clean home ever present, the fact the clean and dirty water don't mix in the mop system started to tempt me. It's always been my biggest bugbear when mopping floors, but lugging around two buckets of water (one clean and one for rinsing) is never going to be a practical solution.

So, with my reservations front of mind, I took delivery of the Philips OneUp 5000 Series Electric Mop with interest. Would it see me popping on my cleaning crown with pride, or make me feel it was just an expensive cleaning accessory I didn't need?

What are the key features of the Philips OneUp 5000 Series Electric Mop?

The Philips OneUp 5000 Series Electric Mop has a number of features to consider if you are weighing it up against other products on the market.

As well as including one cartridge of concentrated cleaning solution, one mop pad and a charging lead, it has the following specification:

• Cordless
• 70 minute battery run time
• 2 wetness settings
• 281 ml clean water tank
• 178 ml dirty water tank
• Empty weight 1.9kg
• Dimension: 35 x 12 x 140 cm

What were my first impressions of the mop?

My first thoughts when unpacking the Philips OneUp 5000 Series Electric Mop were ones of slight scepticism. The water containers were very small and I felt there was no way they could hold enough water to clean all my flooring in one go.

That aside, there was very little to dislike about the product. It's a clean and simple design in a lovely shade of blue. It only has a few components which always gets a big tick from me – particularly as I'd already cleaned vacuumed the floors and wanted to use the mop immediately.

So, despite my worries (which would only be either proved or disproved once in use) on the whole, there really was nothing overly negative to say. A great first impression.

Is setting up and using the Philips OneUp 5000 Series Electric Mop difficult?

As mentioned, there are only a few parts that need assembling on the Philips OneUP 5000 Series Electric Mop. First up is the handle which easily slots into the main body of the mop and is secured in place with one screw.

Then, the cleaning solution cartridge is secured to the head of the clean water tank with a simple twist and click into place. I'll admit I wasn't expecting it to come with cleaning solution, and had assumed I'd need to add my own, or use a spray on floor solution.

One cartridge contains 40 doses and replacement cartridges are available on Amazon for £16.99. While this may seem a lot, it equates to around 42p per use. Depending on which type of floor cleaning solution you buy, this may or may not be comparable. But either way, I like the fact it's a dosed delivery as I know I'm personally guilty of pouring more cleaning product than I need to into a bucket when mopping.

Having a dispensed dose can only mean I don't waste or use more than is necessary.

Once you've attached the cartridge, you then fill the top water container with clean water, and press the button on the top to dispense one dose of solution. Pop the container back into the mop body, make sure the dirty water tank is in place too, and there's only one more step until you're ready to press the start button.

Once you're ready to mop, the final step is to wet the mop head under a tap and then reattach it to the base of the mop.

According to the instructions, once you've finished mopping, you can wash it in the washing machine, ready for the next use. It's recommended to replace it once every 6 months and a pack of two replacement pads can easily be purchased from the Philips website for £34.99.

How did I use the Philips OneUP 5000 Series Electric Mop?

It's entirely accurate to say that using the mop is as simple as the set-up. There are just two buttons. One which controls the wetness settings, and the other to turn it on and off. I opted for the lower wetness setting as there were no obvious stains or debris to remove.

An LED display shows clearly how much battery power you have, and it's a case of press and go. With the mop head already wet, it simply glides across the floor.

The way the mop works is that it dispenses the clean water containing the cleaning solution onto the floor via the mop pad. It then then sucks up the dirty water into a separate container. The two never mix, meaning only clean water touches your floor – unlike a traditional mop where once you've mopped one section, you have no choice other than to put the dirty mop back into the clean water, rinse and repeat.

Instantly it felt like I was cleaning more deeply, and the 360° angled head meant it was easy to reach under chairs, tables and sofas without having to move too much furniture.

In terms of where I cleaned, I used it on bathroom floors, both of which are tiled, and also on the luxury vinyl flooring in my open plan kitchen, dining and living room and then on the wooden stairs leading to the front door.

The mop head was easy to move across all the different surfaces, and there are two things worth noting that are related to time.

Firstly, there's no doubt that it took a fraction of the time to mop the floors than it normally takes me. Secondly, the claims of a 50% quicker drying time are definitely true.

It can often take at least 30 minutes for the floors to dry fully once I've mopped. Using the Philips OneUP 5000 Series Electric Mop it was probably less than 10 minutes before they were clean and ready to walk on again.

And of course, there's also the matter of how much dirt the mop cleaned. It was more than I'd imagined it would be, to the point where I'm really not happy sharing this picture of the dirty water container! However, in the interests of editorial content it's featured below.

But what really deserves space on the page is how little water it has taken to clean my floors. Normally I'd have at least one, if not two mop buckets to discard. With the Philips OneUP 5000 Series Electric Mop, it's reduced to one small container.

In fact the mop specifications say that one container of clean water will clean up to 50m of floor and offer a 90% water saving. Based on my experience, I'd say those numbers are very accurate indeed.

Did the mop convert me or do I still think it's too much of an indulgence?

At the risk of repeating myself, from ease of set up, speed of use, fast drying times and eco-friendly low water consumption, there's very little I didn't like about the Philips OneUP 5000 Series Electric Mop.

While it of course costs more than a normal mop and bucket, and you have to buy branded replacements such as cleaning solution and mop pads to use with it, it's surprised me just how good this product is.

I was genuinely sceptical before I started testing it, feeling it would undoubtedly work, but certainly not see me waxing lyrical in our morning meeting about just how great it was. Normally the last stage of mopping sees me moaning at the fact the cleaning still isn't finished, but since using the mop, it now feels like the best part of it, knowing just how quick it will be, and just how clean my floors will look at the end.

While I don't have a large home, as it cleans the floors quickly, I barely came close to using much of the battery. Plus, with a full charge lasting 70 minutes, it should easily be sufficient for most homes, even those with larger expanses of hard flooring.

If I had any minor niggles at all, it would be that if you like a strong scent when mopping floors, this cleaning solution doesn't offer it. But as I know from the results shown when testing the Molekule Air Pro, this isn't a bad thing. Cleaning products cause a big spike in poor air quality, making the pet and family friendly Philips OneUP 5000 Series Electric Mop cleaning solution undoubtedly better for use inside my home.

Do I still consider it a luxury rather than must-have item? It's a premium priced product, so I guess you could argue it's not accessible to everyone, but is it worth it? For efficiency, results and water saving quality, then yes, it definitely is.

Skirting boards rarely get a second glance, but look closely and you’ll see they’re doing more than you realise. They protect walls, frame floors, and, inevitably, gather a fair bit of dust in the process. In fact, skirting boards might be one of the most overlooked details in a home.

Clean trim can completely change the feel of a room, brightening walls and floors and giving your whole space a 'just-finished' look. The trick is knowing how to do it properly without ruining your paintwork or spending an afternoon on your hands and knees.

From smart tools that save you bending down to expert-approved cleaning methods that really work, here’s how to clean skirting boards the right way.

The best way to clean skirting boards

To find out the best way to clean skirting boards without damaging paint or spending hours on your knees, we asked experts Heather Nixon, sustainability manager at Bio-D, and Michael Bogoyavlenskiy, CEO of Cleaning Express, to share their tried-and-tested methods. Here are the steps they both recommend:

1. Start with a vacuum
   Use the nozzle brush or crevice tool to vacuum up any dust that may have collected on the top of the skirting board. This helps prevent dust from smearing when you start wiping down. If you have pets or a busy household, go over your skirting boards with your vacuum’s upholstery attachment each week to stop build-up.
2. Mix a gentle cleaning solution
   Before you begin cleaning, slip an old towel or dust sheet along the base of the wall to protect your flooring from drips. Then, fill a bowl or bucket with warm water and add a few drops of washing-up liquid. This mild solution is perfect for lifting dust, grease and light scuffs without dulling paint or varnish.
   "I would recommend Bio-D's Pink Grapefruit Washing Up Liquid from Ethical Superstore for this job," says Heather Nixon. "As well as being tough on dirt and grease, it's gentle on skin and has a lovely fragrance."
   "If your skirting board is really dirty, you could also use sugar soap," adds Michael. "It shouldn’t have any impact on the paint or finish, but make sure you do a patch test first."
3. Wipe from top to bottom
   Dip a microfibre cloth into your soapy water, wring it out thoroughly, and work your way along the boards from top to bottom. This prevents streaks or splashes from running down onto clean areas. For detailed profiles or decorative mouldings, a soft brush or old toothbrush will help reach into grooves.
4. Use a mop or duster for hard-to-reach spots
   If you’d rather not bend down, attach a microfibre cloth to the end of a mop or use an extendable duster. Both make it easy to reach behind furniture or cover long stretches of skirting in open-plan spaces.
5. Dry and finish
   Finally, buff each board with a clean, dry microfibre cloth to remove any moisture and bring back a light sheen. Once they’re clean, a quick weekly vacuum or dust is all that’s needed to keep them looking freshly painted.

A word of caution: If you painted your skirting boards in standard matte paint, be gentle when cleaning them. Michael Bogoyavlenskiy explains:

"Kitchen and bathroom paints should be water-resistant, but many standard matte paints aren’t. If you’re concerned about this, try to limit the amount of washing you do. Instead, you’ll just need to be as careful as possible when wiping down the skirting board."

How often should you clean your skirting boards?

There’s no need to add “scrub skirting boards” to your daily checklist, but leaving them for months on end isn’t a great idea either. How often you clean skirting boards really depends on how lived-in your home is. In busy spaces like hallways and kitchens, where movement and cooking fumes stir up more grime, a quick wipe or vacuum every couple of weeks can make all the difference. In quieter rooms, once a month is usually plenty.

Heather Nixon recommends making cleaning skirting boards part of your regular routine rather than a separate task: “Wiping down skirting boards every few weeks will help to keep dust at bay,” she says. "Even a quick once-over with the vacuum nozzle can help prevent that dull grey line from forming along the edge of your floors."

Shop these cleaning essentials

FAQs

What should you not clean wood with?

According to Michael Bogoyavlenskiy, harsh chemical cleaners or anything abrasive should be avoided on wooden skirting boards, as they can strip varnish and dull the finish. Stick to mild washing-up liquid diluted in warm water, and always use a well-wrung cloth to prevent moisture damage, as excess water can cause timber to swell or leave tide marks on stained finishes.

Can you use vinegar to clean skirting boards?

Eco-friendly doesn’t always mean gentle on surfaces. So, while vinegar works well on glass and tiles, its natural acidity can damage paint or varnish on skirting boards over time. For a safer, sustainable clean, try a plant-based washing-up liquid or mild soap instead.

How do you clean skirting boards without bending over?

If kneeling isn’t ideal, Heather Nixon suggests attaching a microfibre cloth to the end of a mop or using an extendable duster to reach along the boards. These tools make it easy to clean behind furniture and across long runs without straining your back, which perfect for a quick once-over during your weekly vacuum.

We like this OXO Good Grips Extendable Microfibre Duster from Amazon UK, as it traps and holds dust without the need for cleaning chemicals, and extends up to 137cm with a quick twist.

If cleaning no longer cuts it and your trim needs a full refresh, you can remove skirting boards carefully with a crowbar, then fill and repaint for a smooth skirting board alternative. Or, for an easier update, read our guide to skirting over skirting.

To the untrained eye, polished concrete and microcement flooring appear similar. Both of these hard floor surfaces are easy to clean, should withstand significant wear, and can lend a contemporary, industrial-tinted aesthetic to living spaces.

Look more closely you’ll start to notice significant differences between the two types of flooring, from their ease of installation and versatility throughout the home to their aesthetics and longevity.

We interviewed a hard floor installer and an architect to find out the pros and cons of these two popular flooring materials. If you’re weighing up polished concrete vs microcement for your floor, this article is here to help you make an informed decision.

Polished concrete vs microcement: Composition

Polished concrete floors are of ancient origin, although the material achieved new popularity in domestic contexts in the 20th century. Favoured by postmodernist architects including Tadao Ando and Zaha Hadid, the material has become a byword for understated sophistication.

Concrete is made from a mixture of cement, sand and water (sometimes with application-specific additives, such as chemical densifiers for polished concrete floors). These materials set hard when mixed and left to dry. The set surface is polished through a sequence of grinding, buffing and treatment processes which ultimately create a smooth and smart-looking floor.

Microcement is a newer material, invented in the mid-20th century and rarely used in European homes until the 1980s. It’s made up of cement, fine aggregates and polymers. To form a floor surface, it is built up in multiple thin coats over a subfloor such as screed. The final thickness of the microcement floor is as little as 2-3mm.

“It has been around for a while, but iterations have changed over the years,” says Simon Heslop, owner and MD of DirectStone Ltd.. “The Forcrete brand microcement we use is fully waterproof, epoxy based and sealed in wax, so it becomes a very stable finish.

This is a marked improvement over some earlier microcement products.

“In the old days you used to seal it, and when the sealant degraded the surface would start to get marked,” says Heslop. “Now that it’s epoxy-based, every layer is waterproof and it’s much harder.”

Microcement flooring is used in some of the same contexts as polished concrete flooring, although the two materials have distinct strengths and weaknesses.

Polished concrete vs microcement: Cost and ease of installation

If you’re able to pour it to the required depth of around 100mm, concrete tends to require minimal subfloor preparation, as it is not greatly affected by the underlying material (technically known as the ‘substrate’) provided this is solid and compacted. This removes one of the costliest and most significant obstacles to laying a new hard floor.

“Concrete can form part of the structural ‘sub floor’ make up of the floor, meaning you would omit using concrete below the insulation and screed above,” says Chris Lawson, Managing Director of CK Architectural. “Like microcement flooring with underfloor heating, polished concrete is also compatible with underfloor heating.”

Microcement is more sensitive to its substrate, and usually requires a perfectly smooth and level subfloor to be laid directly beneath where it will be applied.

“It can be put over very stable tiles that have no cracks or movement – but if the tiles start to delaminate or move, the microcement floor is affected,” Heslop explains.

Installing either type of floor comes at significant expense (with disruption to daily life throughout the process). Cost estimates for professional microcement floor installations are currently around £140 to £160 plus VAT per square metre, while Checkatrade pegs current pricing for polished concrete floor installation at £120 to £150 p.s.m..

“Laying a concrete floor is quite an involved process, but because you’re not screeding it works out at similar price to getting a high quality wooden or tiled floor installed,” says Heslop.

“Microcement is a tiny bit more expensive because you have to factor in putting down screed or a layer of self-levelling compound before the microcement itself goes on. It needs that smooth, level surface underneath.”

Lawson concurs: “With microcement, the full subfloor would be installed and this would be an additional cost to finish, so you might have a solid concrete subfloor with four more layers added on top.”

Winner: polished concrete

Polished concrete vs microcement: Aesthetic appeal

According to Lawson, polished concrete is a versatile choice in terms of the finished floor’s aesthetic.

“The concrete can be of various different patterns and colours, and there are many effects available including marble and quartz textures,” he says. “Patterns are not always balanced and uniform, so ensure the installer guarantees the frequency of the pattern details.”

If you’re not a fan of grey floors (and plenty of people are), both polished concrete and microcement have plenty of alternative tones to offer.

“Microcement can come in pretty much any colour, including your choice of RAL colour,” says Heslop. “The producers can also copy most of the colours sold by paint brands, such as Farrow & Ball and Little Greene. Concrete is available in a lot of colours too, but not as many.”

The two materials also vary in their texture.

“There are more options with microcement as the specialist can trowel in different finishes, much like the old school renderers with Artex, Venetian plaster, tadelakt or stucco,” says Lawson. “Polished concrete generally is a high-shine, glazed, smooth finish.”

Winner: it’s a question of taste

Polished concrete vs microcement: Longevity

“Because microcement is only around 2-3mm thick, it’s only as good as the screed beneath it in terms of robustness,” says Heslop. “We put a fibreglass mesh over it, but it can only hold for so long. It will last for ten years plus, as long as the screed stays stable. However, newer microcements such as the Forcrete products we use are very, very good, and I could see them lasting for 20 or 30 years.

“Ultimately, a microcement floor’s lifespan will depend on what it’s on top of, and how well it is looked after.”

A polished concrete floor will usually last far longer, subject to occasional resealing to preserve its condition.

“The concrete is 100mm thick and poured with a 6-8mm mesh within it, which is made with a steel rated at around C35,” says Heslop. “So, even if underfloor heating below the concrete causes cracks, these tend to be hairline. It’s a very durable layer.”

Winner: polished concrete

Polished concrete vs microcement: Ease of upkeep

According to Heslop, polished concrete and microcement floors are fairly similar in terms of their upkeep requirements.

“Concrete is probably a little easier to clean because it’s polished – it feels like marble – whereas microcement has more texture, so dirt or moisture can sit in the tiny depressions across its surface,” he says.

Both microcement and polished concrete floors will require refinishing from time to time, which usually involves sanding and reapplication of sealant. Heslop provides this service for both materials.

“Concrete can be refinished many times without changing appearance, whereas microcement can only be refinished a few times due to its limited depth,” he says.

Winner: polished concrete

Polished concrete vs microcement: Versatility

You can use polished concrete or microcement flooring throughout much of the home, but there are a few exceptions in each case.

“For a garage floor you’d want concrete, because it’s a solid layer rather than screed plus that thin layer of microcement,” says Heslop. “This applies especially if you’ve got heavy car traffic in and out, which would mean you’re parking and turning your wheel in one place repeatedly.”

Meanwhile, Heslop recommends microcement for areas which are often wet, such as bathrooms.

“It’s perfect for shower trays – as well as for bathroom walls – because it’s waterproof and practically stainproof,” he says. “Concrete is porous and can be marked and stained by the water when the sealant starts to wear off.”

DirectStone Ltd started offering microcement floors because customers wanted a concrete finish, but couldn’t put it in due to their existing floor materials.

“It’s perfect for renovations or refurbs where you’re not digging out your floors, because it’s a far shallower layer,” says Heslop. “On the other hand, polished concrete is my recommendation for the main floor areas of new builds under construction. In my opinion, it will last longer and has a slightly more natural look. If I were building a new house, I’d go for polished concrete in the main living areas and microcement in the bathrooms.”

This tallies with Lawson’s thoughts on polished concrete floors.

“They can be slippy when wet,” he says, “whereas microcement flooring comes in many different textures which allow for more non-slip arrangements.”

Winner: microcement

Shop hard floor cleaning products

FAQs

Do microcement and polished concrete look the same?

Floors of these types look fairly similar to one another, but polished concrete tends to be smoother and shinier whereas microcement typically has a more textured appearance.

Both microcement and polished concrete come in a variety of colours and finishes. Talk to your installer to agree on the ideal finished look of your flooring, whichever of the two materials you choose.

Can microcement or polished concrete flooring be installed DIY?

Whether you choose polished concrete or microcement, laying a hard floor is usually best left to a professional. Many steps of the process, from mixing the material to pouring it evenly and safely through a room, will benefit greatly from the experience and equipment of a specialist installer.

Some intrepid DIYers might consider self-installing a microcement floor in certain cases, especially where a limited area is being refloored and professional installation costs are therefore inflated. For instance, you might attempt laying your own microcement shower tray.

Getting your floors right provides the basis for your home’s aesthetics and livability. Avoid these common flooring mistakes, and take a room-by-room approach with special consideration for bedroom flooring ideas, garage flooring ideas, and so on.

Regardless of the type of flooring you chose to cover the ground in your home, you'll be keen to avoid costly and time consuming flooring mistakes. Not only can they result in you going over-budget, but can also add time and stress to your build or renovations.

But, with such a wide variety of flooring available, are there any common mistakes that can be applied across the board? Yes say the experts, citing 12 of the top flooring mistakes they see time and time again.

So, whether you're choosing cosy carpet or more contemporary tiles, these are the flooring mistakes to avoid if you want a floor that looks good, lasts well and is the best choice for your home.

1. Choosing the wrong flooring type

Making sure you avoid flooring mistakes starts at the very beginning of the process say flooring experts, and involves you making sure that you've chosen the right product for your home, your floor and the main use of the room it's being fitted in.

Avoiding making the mistake of buying the wrong flooring comes down to consideration of a number of factors says Yarl Christie, founder of Stories Flooring, citing the following as prime examples of when general mistakes are made:

• Choosing looks over practicality: Dark or glossy floors look stunning in the showroom, but in reality they highlight every speck of dust, hair and scratch. Always think about the day-to-day upkeep before you buy.
• Ignoring room conditions: Putting wood in a bathroom or carpet in a damp basement is asking for trouble. You’ll end up with warping, mould and premature deterioration.
• Choosing the wrong material for your lifestyle: Soft woods and pets don’t mix; glossy laminates show every smudge; some vinyls can feel cold underfoot. Match your choice to how you actually live.
• Overlooking comfort features: Hard, cold floors without underfloor heating can make a space uncomfortable to live in. Comfort is just as important as style.

2. Buying tiles that aren't fit for purpose

“Tiles are a love affair waiting to happen but only if you pick the right ones for the right space," says Grazzie Wilson head of creative at Ca' Pietra. "People often fall in love with a tile in a showroom but don’t stop to think about how it will behave day-to-day.

"A busy entrance for example needs hallway flooring ideas that can stand up to daily traffic, while natural stone in a shower needs sealing so it stays beautiful instead of waterlogged," she says.

"Porcelain, on the other hand, is the all-rounder we always recommend. It’s hardwearing, versatile enough for indoors and out, and comes in every colour and finish you could wish for. Think of it as your no-regrets option.

"Slip resistance is also a detail many homeowners overlook," she adds. "If your tiles are going on the floor, check the R rating. For bathroom flooring ideas, kitchens and hallways, R10 is a safe starting point. Go higher in wet rooms where surfaces will get slippery. A small bit of texture underfoot makes a big difference day to day. For example, polished stone in a busy kitchen or bathroom can be slippery, while textured finishes or R11-rated porcelain are far more practical for high-traffic or wet areas."

Why not try these Pumice Porcelain Off White Ca' Pietra tiles from Hyperion Tiles as a starting point when renovating a bathroom? They have a lovely terrazzo finish and come with an R10 rating.

3. Selecting the wrong underlay

Opting for carpet as part of your flooring scheme? Don't forget to choose the right type of underlay too, warns Johanna Constantinou, interior trends expert at Tapi Carpets & Floors.

“Underlay plays a crucial supporting role in carpet performance, and selecting the wrong type undermines both comfort and durability. It's also important to considering tog ratings, in a similar way to duvet warmth. A high tog carpet over underfloor heating, without a low tog underlay, can block heat flow. We recommend a maximum of 2.5 tog over underfloor heating," says Johanna, "such as our Unity underlay which has a tog rating of 2.4."

4. Not picking underfloor heat compatible wooden flooring

"When installing wood flooring over underfloor heating, a common mistake is not checking compatibility," says Ian Tomlinson, managing director of Chaunceys Timber Flooring. "Solid wood can be prone to movement in these conditions, so engineered wood flooring is often a better choice for stability.

"Many people also focus on choosing the right wood but forget about the finish and how it will be maintained," he adds.

"Some finishes offer more protection against spills and scratches, while others highlight the natural beauty of the wood but require more upkeep. Picking the right finish for your lifestyle and knowing how to care for it is essential for keeping the floor looking its best."

5. Not testing how your floor will look

In the same way as you'd use tester pots to try out the newest paint trends on your walls, it's a mistake not to do the same when it comes to your flooring ideas too.

And, it can be particularly advantageous when tiling a floor, says Grazzie Wilson.

"Our recommendation is to never buy tiles without ordering samples first. Light, shade and texture can completely change how a tile looks once it’s in your home. We always tell customers to live with a sample for a few days before committing," says Grazzie.

"With patterned tiles, scale is often overlooked. A bold design might look beautiful on a sample, but if the repeat is too large or too small for the room, it can feel overwhelming or lose its impact. Always mock up a few pieces at home before ordering, to make sure the proportions work," she advises.

But it's not just tiles that need testing. "Lighting changes everything," adds Yarl Christie. "A floor that looks perfect under bright showroom lights might feel completely different in your own home, so always order samples."

6. Making colour mistakes

Once you've decided on type, then colour, pattern and finish will all need to be considered, and if you're running the same flooring through a number of different rooms, you'll want to make sure your choice doesn't end up as an unpleasant flooring mistake.

One way to do this is by trying not to chase short-lived trends, says Yarl Christie. "Bold colours or patterns might be fun now, but they can date quickly and even hurt your home’s resale value."

So why do we make flooring mistakes when it comes to colour and pattern?

"Too often people see flooring as purely practical, but the right colour, texture or finish can completely transform a space," says Darwyn Ker, managing director of Woodpecker Flooring. In the same way as designers often refer to the ceiling being the fifth wall, "your floor can be considered the fifth wall of your home too," he says.

Grazzie Wilson agrees that picking the wrong colour can indeed be a common flooring mistake.

“Colour choice can also trip people up," she states. "Pale tiles can make a room feel wonderfully bright for example, but will show up every speck of dirt in a hallway, while very dark tones may hide mess, but can leave a space feeling smaller.

The same goes for grout too, adds Grazzie. "Choosing the wrong grout shade can also completely change the look of a floor. A tonal grout gives a seamless, calm finish, while contrast grout highlights the pattern and adds drama. Think about light, layout and lifestyle before committing to your flooring colour."

7. Compromising cost over quality

With floors in every room of your self build or renovation project, it's understandable that it can feel a little overwhelming when your flooring costs start to mount up. But, as the most well-used surface in your home, taking a budget-led approach to your flooring isn't always the best idea.

"One of the most common mistakes we see is homeowners focusing too heavily on cost when choosing flooring," confirms Adam Robertson, managing director at Urbane Living.

"While budget is of course a consideration, opting for the cheapest option often means compromising on quality. In the case of wood flooring costs, and engineered wood in particular, a lower price point can indicate a much thinner wear layer, which is the top layer of real wood that can be sanded and refinished over time.

"A floor with a substantial wear layer not only looks more luxurious, it will stand the test of time and can be restored multiple times, making it a far better long-term investment," he explains. "Choosing a very thin wear layer might save money initially, but it can limit the floor’s lifespan to only a few years before it needs replacing entirely.

"The finish applied to protect the floor is also an essential consideration," he adds. "A good-quality finish can last decades. If opting for an oil finish the maintenance will require frequent maintenance oil, so if you are not in a position to apply the maintenance oil consider a quality lacquered finish which requires minimal maintenance."

It's not just the main product where cutting on costs can turn into an issue either. It can extend to the materials you use with it, or the way in which your flooring is installed.

For example, when it comes to underlay, "it isn’t just an optional extra," warns Yarl Christie. "It impacts warmth, noise, and the lifespan of your floor. Skimping here is a false economy."

Likewise opting for an unbalanced spending approach won't work either," he says. "Overspending on premium wooden flooring for example, but cutting corners on labour – or the other way around – usually compromises the end result."

8. Not ordering enough flooring materials

Next on the list of flooring mistakes is the crucial stage of ordering your materials. The main error people make in this instance? Not ordering enough.

"Homeowners often underestimate wastage allowances when ordering wooden flooring," confirms Ian Tomlinson. "Not ordering enough means you risk running short mid-installation, and because timber batches can vary, topping up later can lead to visible differences in colour or grain.

"We generally suggest 5-10% for planks, 12–15% for parquet patterns like herringbone or chevron, and 15–20% for reclaimed boards."

It's the same for floor tiles too," says Grazzie Wilson.

“Once you’ve found ‘the one’, don’t cut it too fine," she suggests. "Order at least 10% more tiles than your exact measurements to cover cuts and breakages, and bump it to 15% if you’re going bold with herringbone or chevrons."

Bit it's not just the tiles to take into account, "the same goes for grout," she warns. "Colour matches can be surprisingly tricky if you run out halfway. Trust us, future-you will thank present-you for being generous."

And, while carpet costs will normally be calculated based on a professional installer quoting and pricing the job, make sure they haven't forgotten to consider the potential wastage you might need to accept when using a wider carpet roll.

“Many of Tapi’s carpets max out at 5m width, and larger areas require precise joins, ideally placed where they’ll be least noticeable, such as near the furthest wall or under furniture," says Johanna Constantinou.

"A mistake here is failing to position the join strategically, which can make seams obvious and visually disruptive, so make sure there's enough allowance included for the right joins," she says.

Try these 5m wide carpets for larger rooms

9. Rushing sub-floor preparation

Next on the list of flooring mistakes is rushing the preparation or getting it wrong, and it's of particular importance if you're laying flooring on a new subfloor. "A floor is only as good as the surface beneath it," warns Yarl Christie. "If the base is uneven or damp, you’ll end up with squeaks, swelling, and gaps."

"One of the biggest mistakes we see is neglecting proper subfloor preparation," agrees Ian Tomlinson. "If the base isn’t clean, dry and level, it can compromise both the look and longevity of the floor.

"Skipping moisture checks is particularly risky as hidden damp in the subfloor can lead to swelling, warping or cupping immediately during acclimatisation, and even months down the line. A good installer will always test and manage moisture levels before starting work," he says."

"A subfloor can take months to completely dry out," warns Darwyn Ker, "and if you rush, you’ll run into problems later. Taking the time to get the preparation right is every bit as important as the product you choose."

It's also the same for tiles and even carpet, meaning this flooring mistake is one to avoid, regardless of the product you've chosen to lay.

"With tiles, the base has to be sound, level and dry before installation,' says Grazzie Wilson. Skip this step and you risk cracks, uneven finishes or tiles lifting over time. A little extra care at the start saves a lot of stress later."

Johanna Constantinou agrees that in all cases, "a subfloor must be dry, smooth, structurally sound, and debris-free, especially before fitting laminate or other flooring types. If it's in poor condition, repair or replacement is required first. Similarly, with carpets, failing to ensure proper surface preparation can lead to poor adhesion, unevenness, or premature wear.”

10. Skipping the acclimatisation step

Although not all flooring needs acclimatising prior to being laid, some types do, and failure to do so is a flooring mistake that can lead to costly repair or replacement.

"Timber is a natural material and needs time to adjust to the temperature and humidity of the room," says Ian Tomlinson and this is the process known as acclimatisation.

"If you lay it straight away, the boards may expand or contract afterwards, causing gaps or buckling," he warns. "For kiln-dried boards, we recommend 10-14 days; for reclaimed timber, it might be four weeks,' he adds. "Regular checks with a hygrometer and protimeter will tell you when the boards have reached their equilibrium moisture content."

Not all flooring needs as long though, which may be something to bear in mind when looking at your extension planner. For example, “laminate must acclimatise for at least 48 hours in the room where it will be laid so it can adjust to temperature and humidity," says Johanna Constantinou.

11. Incorrect or poor installation

Although you may have decided to splash out on expensive flooring, the reality is poor or incorrect installation will reduce the quality. So, when it comes to getting your flooring laid, make sure you know what's involved so that you don't make a flooring mistake at this late stage in the game.

"Choosing the wrong installation method is a pitfall with wood or engineered wood flooring," says Ian Tomlinson. "Nail-down, glue-down, and floating floors all have different requirements and benefits, and using the wrong approach can lead to an uneven finish or a floor that doesn’t perform well.

"Another easily overlooked detail is the expansion gap," he adds. "Wood naturally moves with changes in humidity, so without a proper gap around the room’s perimeter, the floor can press against the walls and buckle. It’s a small step that can prevent a big problem."

It's also one I experienced with floor tiles, where a big enough expansion joint hadn't been allowed in a hallway. As it also had underfloor heating, which resulted in frequent temperature changes, long cracks appeared in the tiles and were clearly visible.

With all flooring materials, it's also important to ensure the transition between rooms and different materials is accounted for in the installation process, adds Yarl Christie. "Threshold strips aren’t just cosmetic," he explains, "they prevent trip hazards and create a professional finish between rooms."

And, while it's certainly possible to lay flooring yourself to save money, if your DIY skills aren't up to scratch, it's not always a good idea to take on the job yourself.

"Patterns like herringbone or rooms with uneven subfloors really need a professional," says Yarl Christie. "Poor DIY can lead to movement, gaps, and potentially even void your warranty."

"Floor installation is a highly skilled job," agrees Darwyn Ker. "Over 90% of problems arise from poor fitting rather than the floor itself, so it’s worth investing in a professional installer from the outset." For intricate designs or specialist products, a professional fitter is usually worth every penny and will leave you with a floor to be proud of.

12. Forgetting room flow

Keen to make sure when your flooring is installed you can sit back and look at it with pride? Don't forget to consider room flow say the experts.

"One of the biggest mistakes we see is not thinking about the flow between rooms," says Darwyn Ker. "A floor doesn’t exist in isolation – it runs throughout a home – so choosing a product that offers matching elements such as planks and trims makes a huge difference to how cohesive your space feels."

Also be careful not too add too many different types or colours, warns Yarl Christie, particularly if you're dealing with a more petite property.

"Mixing too many floor types in one sightline disrupts the visual flow," he warns, "and can make spaces feel smaller."

Keen to know what you can expect to pay for professional installation to make sure you avoid flooring mistakes? Check out our guide to carpet installation costs, and if you are going to embark on a DIY project to save on your renovation costs, follow the expert tips for tiling an uneven floor to make sure the end result is a smooth, flat and even finish.

If you’ve ever tiptoed downstairs in search of a midnight snack, only to be betrayed by a tell-tale creak underfoot, you’ll know how frustrating squeaky floors can be. For many homeowners, it’s simply part of living in an older property with timber floors – an irritation that comes and goes with the seasons. But when do those squeaks stop being just a nuisance and start hinting at something more serious?

While the majority of squeaky floors aren’t a cause for alarm, there are occasions where noise can be a symptom of underlying issues with the joists, subfloor, or even the structure itself. Being able to spot the difference is key to knowing whether to reach for a screwdriver or call in a surveyor.

Below, we explore the common causes of squeaky and creaking floorboards, how to tell if they signal a structural problem, and when to call in the professionals.

When is a squeaky floor nothing to worry about?

“Most squeaky floors are not a structural crisis,” explains Frank Petersen, head of product development at Parador. "In wooden flooring or click-lock systems – like engineered wood, laminate, or vinyl floors – squeaks typically come from boards moving slightly against each other or the subfloor – often due to seasonal shrinkage or loosely secured joints.”

Humidity is often the hidden culprit. As Petersen adds: “Wood-based products are hygroscopic, meaning they expand or contract with humidity variations. That can open tiny gaps between floorboards or subfloor, causing friction and creaking noises as you move around."

Even new-build homes aren’t immune. While the majority of squeaks are caused by wear and tear or natural material movement, small imperfections in installation – such as an uneven subfloor or insufficient fixings – can also leave boards with a little more freedom to move than intended, creating that tell-tale creak.

So, while squeaky floors can be irritating, they’re rarely a sign of wider structural problems, and in most cases stopping wooden floors from creaking is a straightforward DIY fix.

When are squeaky floors a cause for concern?

“In most cases, squeaks are a nuisance rather than a sign of serious structural problems,” says Scott Godfrey, carpenter at Black Hammer. “However, squeaky floors can sometimes point to more significant concerns, especially if accompanied by other signs such as uneven floors, cracks in walls, or doors and windows that stick. These symptoms could indicate issues with joists, subfloor movement, or even subsidence issues with your home. If a floor feels unstable or there’s noticeable movement beneath the boards, it’s wise to get a professional structural survey.”

You can also check for signs of woodworm and rot. Woodworm leave tiny holes in the timber, and rot can usually be identified by discolouration and softening.

When should you bring in the professionals?

While many squeaky floors can be silenced with a quick tightening of screws, there are times when it’s best to step back and call in the experts. Homebuilding's website editor Amy Willis says: "If you've just had a new wooden floor laid and your floor wasn't squeaky before they did the job, it's entirely reasonable to call them back in to fix the problem. It's only when the squeak isn't caused by their work, that this would be an unreasonable ask."

Professional help is also essential if the squeaks are accompanied by wider signs of stress in the building. Scott Godfrey explains: “If a floor feels unstable or there’s noticeable movement beneath the boards, it’s wise to get a professional structural survey. Squeaks alone are usually a nuisance, but when paired with instability, they can suggest more serious concerns.”

In short: DIY makes sense for simple, accessible fixes, but if the squeaks come with bounce, sloping, cracks in plaster, or coverings that make access difficult, it’s time to bring in a surveyor, structural engineer, or flooring expert before you risk causing further damage.

3 DIY fixes for squeaky floors

Once you’ve tackled those squeaky boards, it might be time to bring back their shine with our guide on how to revive wooden floors. Or, if you’re considering a full replacement, take a look at our breakdown of wood flooring costs and the costs to lay laminate flooring.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

There’s a reason why microcement flooring has become a go-to in modern homes. It offers a seamless, contemporary look that works across open-plan spaces, kitchens and bathrooms alike, and it’s compatible with underfloor heating too. But getting this combination right takes more than a good eye for design. Subfloor prep, moisture control, heating protocols and product choice all play a crucial role in its long-term performance.

We asked industry experts to explain what you need to know before combining microcement flooring with underfloor heating, including common mistakes to avoid and the secret to a crack-free finish that lasts.

Can you use microcement flooring with underfloor heating?

"Microcement is thermally efficient and works brilliantly with underfloor heating systems,” explains Kieran Gunn, owner of Options 4 Surfaces. “Its fast heat response and low thermal resistance make it an ideal surface finish for energy-efficient heating, especially in modern interiors.”

"Thanks to its slim profile and excellent conductivity, microcement allows warmth to spread quickly and evenly across the floor," Kieran says. "It’s also well suited to the low, consistent temperatures that underfloor heating is designed to deliver."

The Importance of Subfloor Preparation

When pairing microcement with underfloor heating, what lies beneath is just as important as the finish you see on top. A perfectly prepped subfloor is essential. Skip this step, and you’re likely to run into issues like cracks, delamination or uneven heating later on.

Richie Butt, founder of Relentless Microcement explains that cracks most commonly occur in screeds when the underfloor heating is turned on for the first time. “This is because the heat causes expansion and then contraction in the screed,” he says. “Microcement is very strong, but it's only as strong as the substrate that it is applied to, so if there is movement in the subfloor this could transfer through to the surface of the microcement. This is why we always recommend that underfloor heating is turned on and put through a full cycle before the microcement is applied. This will force out any cracks, allowing them to be repaired in advance."

Ideally, your screed should be left to cure for at least three to four weeks. Before applying microcement, it’s also crucial to check that the moisture content is low enough (typically under 5%). A good installer will use a hygrometer to be sure.

The surface itself should also be level, clean, and free from cracks or dust. Kieran Gunn notes: “Substrate preparation is paramount. This involves making sure the surface is level, clean and free from cracks and dust. It also needs to be completely dry and cured before microcement can be applied.”

And don’t overlook the importance of good documentation either. As Lincoln Smith, managing director at Custom Heat, points out: “Choosing a reputable, high-quality installer minimises the risk of issues further down the line, but it’s also vital to keep a record of your underfloor heating layout. Holding on to the original designs and graphics means you can refer back to them if you ever need to drill into the floor or carry out maintenance. This can help avoid costly repairs and accidental damage.”

Pre-Heating Protocol Before Applying Microcement

One of the most important steps in this process is how you warm up the floor before the microcement goes down. This isn’t just a flick-the-switch-and-go situation, as heating the floor too early or too quickly can lead to serious issues later, including trapped moisture and hairline cracks in your lovely new surface.

Here’s how to do it properly:

• Wait at least 3 to 4 weeks after your screed is poured before turning the heating on. The floor needs to fully cure first.
• Then slowly ‘commission’ the heating system. This means starting it at around 25°C for a couple of days, then gradually increasing to around 40–45°C over the following days.
• Turn the heating off at least 48 hours before applying microcement. The floor should be no warmer than 18°C when work begins.

This gradual process helps remove any hidden moisture from the screed and stabilises the surface, which is essential for preventing movement or cracking once the microcement is applied.

Correct Application Techniques

Once your screed has been properly cured and the underfloor heating system has gone through a full commissioning cycle and been switched off, you’re ready to apply the microcement.

Richie Butt recommends applying the product in thin, even layers for the best visual results. However, while neat application is important, he explains that it won’t have much impact on how well your underfloor heating performs: “Microcement is applied at 3–4mm finished, so it's not thick enough to affect the thermal performance of underfloor heating in any significant way,” he says. “This will come down to the insulation and screed thickness more than the microcement.”

After application, the sealing process is just as important. The sealant used should be durable, resistant to wear, and ideally non-slip, as this helps to protect the floor in high-traffic areas like kitchens, bathrooms or hallways.

How to choose the right product

“Not all microcement systems are suitable for use with underfloor heating,” explains Kieran Gunn. “They all differ in terms of thermal flexibility and adhesion strength.” In other words, what works perfectly well on a standard floor might struggle to cope with the heat cycles and movement that underfloor systems naturally produce.

That’s why it’s essential to choose a microcement product that’s been specifically designed – and tested – for use with radiant heat. According to Richie Butt, “The products need to be able to withstand and remain stable in temperatures of around 40 to 50°C. That includes the primers and sealers as well as the microcement itself."

So, if you want a flawless finish that lasts, product choice matters just as much as installation. Speak to your microcement installer about systems that are proven to work with UFH.

Choosing the right type of flooring is a big decision in any renovation or self-build, but when it comes to microcement, the success of your finish depends heavily on what’s underneath. If you're early in the planning stages, it’s worth brushing up on the basics. Our guide to floor screed is a great place to start.

Tiling an uneven floor is a challenge, so it's essential to ensure that your subfloor is as flat and level as possible before laying any floor tiles. Leave any high points or low points across a floor and you could be heading for trouble. You’ll get uneven grout lines, raised tile edges and subtle dips in the floor.

A floor doesn't need to be perfectly level, but it does need to be very close when tiling a floor. Regulations allow for slight variation, but the closer a floor is to flat and level, the better the finish. Here, the pros reveal the maximum slope allowed, the tools to get a flat floor and how to prep a surface ready for tiling.

Check floor is flat and level

Paul Hambidge, Managing Director at Factory Direct Flooring, points out that before laying a new floor, it's essential to check the subfloor first. "No matter what type of flooring you're about to lay, it's very important that your subfloor is flat and level.” He adds, “This ensures no sagging and gaps in your new floor.”

To check if the floor is level, Hambidge suggests, “Use a carpenter's level (typically longer than a spirit level), marking out any uneven areas with chalk. You can then measure how uneven it is by lifting one end of the level until the bubble is central, then measuring the difference between the lifted end and the floor.”

But a floor doesn’t need to be perfectly level, but close, continues Hambidge, “The standard for a level surface is no more than 3mm variation over a straight edge of two metres.” He adds, “The extra length you get with a carpenter's level (like this Spear & Jackson SL2000 Spirit Level) will be helpful here."

Try these tools to help tile an uneven floor

Preparing an uneven concrete floor

The preparation of a subfloor will depend on the state of the floor. If you have just a few low spots across the floor, you can address them by hand. However, if the entire floor need levelling, you’ll need to use a self-levelling compound.

Hambidge goes into more detail about the process, “To level a concrete subfloor, remove all the furniture and clean the surface by scraping and vacuuming away all debris and dust.” With the floor clean, Hambidge says, “Check your floor's moisture levels to check whether you need a moisture barrier (like this Damp Proof Epoxy Resin Water Based Paint from Amazon) before anything else. He adds, “A good way to check your floor's moisture level is with a moisture measuring meter, and you're looking for less than 75% humidity." Apply if needed.

Start by filling any large cracks with concrete and leave to dry completely before continuing. Hambidge adds, “Mark any uneven areas with chalk, then use a concrete grinder to file down the high spots, before vacuuming away all the dust.” Alternatively, a concrete grinding disc (like this SHDIATOOL Diamond Grinding Cup Wheel from Amazon) on an angle grinder is a cheaper option.

With a flat and level floor, the next step is to prime it with a primer, such as Palace SBR Bond from Amazon, which will seal the floor. Hambidge points out how to apply, “It should be applied with a soft roller, applying pressure to work it into the floor and evening out any puddles.” He adds, “Once dry, apply a second coat in the opposite direction. Drying time will vary between three and 24 hours depending on the climate.”

The final step is to use a levelling compound, such as Ultra Level IT 2 Self Levelling Compound, available on Amazon. Hambidge says, “It should be mixed with water as per the instructions on the tub, and mixed thoroughly.” He adds, “Do this in small batches, because it will only take 15-30 mins before it becomes unpourable.”

Once mixed, Hambidge adds, “The compound should be spread evenly and pushed right into the corners and edges with a spiked roller (like this 10-inch Spiked Floor Roller from Amazon) or squeegee. Let this dry completely according to the packet's instructions.” He finishes by saying, “Once dry, your new flooring is ready to lay."

Preparing an uneven wooden floor

If you have an uneven wooden floor the first step is to secure every board. Keen says, “Replace anything rotten and drive in screws where planks squeak.” He continues, “Plane or sand down crowns, and skim coat little dips with patching compound.” Use an orbital sander like this SKIL 5” Random Orbital Sander from Amazon, with a coarse sandpaper grade, 40-60 grit is good.

If you are still having issues Keen suggests, “Screw down a cement backerboard (like this HardieBacker 6mm Backerboard from B&Q) to give a rigid, even platform for tiles."

FAQs

Do you need to prime a newly prepared floor?

“In most cases, yes,” shares Keen. Adding a primer will help with a host of issues and ensure the longevity of a newly tiled floor. He adds, “Primer keeps thirsty substrates from stealing water out of the mix. Always read the manufacturer’s label, but skipping primer is a common cause of bond failure.”

It is essential to seal porous concrete surfaces and screeds to prevent further issues from arising. The same principle applies to wooden floors, but a different type of primer will be needed. Ensure the floor is clean, free from dust, and secure before priming.

Can I put floor tiles over floor tiles?

Yes, you can lay floor tiles over floor tiles, but a lot will depend on the current state of the floor. If it's in poor condition and requires extensive repair work, then it makes no sense to tile on top of it. However, if the floor is solid and only has superficial damage, it can be a good choice. But Hambidge adds a word of warning, “A lot depends on what your tiles underneath are made of.”

He adds, “For example, I wouldn't recommend laying vinyl tiles on top of old tiles that are also made of vinyl – that's because it will 'sweat'.” Instead, you should remove the old tiles and prepare your subfloor before installing the new tiles."

Is there a floor tile pattern that helps hide an uneven floor?

While it makes sense to get a floor as flat and level as possible, there are a few tricks that you can use to help counteract any subtle dips and troughs. Keen suggests a staggered brick or running bond design. “These help hide small waves better than grid lines that are precisely straight.”

He adds, “Avoid tiles that are too big and grout joints that are too thin, as they make flaws stand out.” To finish, he says, “When the substrate isn't ideal, smaller sizes or mosaics (like these Ashford Hexagon Black & White Mosaic Tile Sheets from Victorian Plumbing) can bend and hide small highs and lows.”

Unsure about which floor tile to choose for your flooring project? Check out our bathroom flooring ideas, best flooring for kitchens and where to buy bathroom floor tiles guide for insight and inspiration.

There’s nothing more annoying than a cracked or broken floor tile spoiling the aesthetic of a beautifully tiled floor. You’ll notice it every time you walk into the room and wish it weren’t there. It’s not just unattractive, it can be damaging to you and the floor underneath.

If you’re lucky enough to have a spare tile from tiling a floor previously, then it won’t be long before you can bring a floor back to its former glory. All you’ll need are a few simple tools, a bit of muscle power and the help of this guide to make it happen.

Why replace a broken floor tile

A broken floor tile will need to be replaced, but the timing depends on its location and the severity of the break. Here we look at the common reasons and the problems that can cause.

• Aesthetic appeal Cracked or chipped floor tiles are unappealing and will spoil the aesthetic of a floor. If obvious, it will draw the eye and be hard to ignore.
• Trip hazard A broken tile can raise the profile of the tile surface, creating a potential trip hazard. When walking barefoot, it is easy to catch the edge of a tile and cut your foot.
• Subfloor issues Cracks will allow water to ingress into the subfloor beneath the tile. If left unaddressed, the issue will only worsen and could lead to damage that may be expensive to repair.

Tools you’ll need to replace a broken floor tile

There are a few tools that you'll need to make the removal process easier. Here we list what you'll need, along with some recommendations.

• Hammer (like this Magnusson Carbon Steel Claw Hammer from B&Q)
• Chisel ( like this Silverline Bolster Chisel with Guard from Amazon)
• Angle grinder (optional - like this DEWALT XR Brushless 125mm Angle Grinder from Amazon
• Notched trowel
• Tile adhesive
• Tile spacers (choose the right size to match)
• Vacuum (check out our best vacuum cleaners for builders' dust guide)
• Grout and grout float

Shop tools to replace a broken floor tile

How to replace a broken floor tile

Before you dive in and start replacing a broken floor tile, ensure you have a replacement tile or tiles. Ensure they fit in terms of width, height, and depth, and place them next to the current tiles to assess how well the colour or pattern matches.

1. Remove the old grout

Floor tiles are held in place by adhesive and grout, so the first step is to remove the grout. Paul Kerr, building specialist at Beatsons, points out, “Grout can get stronger over time and becomes brittle and difficult to remove.”

To remove the old grout, you’ll need to use a specialist tool, continues Kerr, “Use a grout rake to pull out the grout and be sure to wear eye protection as grout can spit off in any direction.” He adds, “I choose to rake the grout across the lines in a long, slow motion; it can take some time to clear grout this way.” A tip to help speed up the removal process is to use a sharp utility knife to run it along the edges of the grout before using the rake.

An alternative option is to use an angle grinder if you own one. Make sure that the grinding disc is not thicker than the grout; otherwise, you can start cutting into the tile. Kerr shares, “Be sure to cover your eyes and mouth as these grinders can create a lot of dust.” He adds, “A vacuum is helpful here to remove dust as you go along.”

2. Break up and remove the tile

With the grout removed, the next step is to break up the tile and remove the fragments. Kerr says think safety. “Safety glasses and long sleeves are advised here.” There are several options for breaking up a tile. Kerr says, “You want to create a weak spot in the middle of the tile, you can do this by drilling into the centre of the tile, and chiselling at the hole that’s made. He adds, “If the bond is weak, it may pop up quite easily in one or two pieces.”

Thomas Oldham, co-founder, UK Construction Blog, suggests a slightly different approach: “If it’s a thinner tile, a hammer and chisel will do the job.” He adds, “Position the chisel in the centre and tap it with the hammer to crack the tile into smaller pieces. For thicker stone or porcelain, scoring it first with an angle grinder makes breaking it up easier.”

Alternatively, you can start by just tapping the middle of the tile with a hammer. To remove the broken tile, place the chisel under the tile and tap out with a hammer.

3. Clean up subfloor

Once the tile has been broken up and removed, you need to clean up the area. Kerr says, “You want to chisel away the mortar so the base surface is as level as possible so the tile doesn’t appear higher than the rest.” He warns, “Be careful not to chisel too heavily close to the other tiles.” Take your time and make sure all mortar is removed.

To help the clean up process, Kerr adds, “An angle grinder is great at clearing up mortar close to the edges.” Again, take your time as you don’t want to damage the surrounding tiles. Finally, Kerr says, “Clear away the debris with a vacuum.”

4. Add new tile

Once the surface is level and clean, check that your tile fits properly. Oldham says, “Dry laying the tile before sticking it down is worth the extra time.” He adds, “This lets you check the fit, make any cuts, and line it up with the pattern around it.”

Remove the tile and prep the area. Kerr says, “You want to wet it with a damp sponge (this stops the dry base absorbing too much of the moisture out of the mortar once applied.”

He adds, “Apply a pre-mixed thin set mortar (tile adhesive) into the space, go round all the edges to ensure the mortar is evenly spread, don’t use too much mortar as you need your tile to remain level with the rest of the floor.” Use spacers to get even and consistent gaps around the tile.

Press the tile into the mortar and use a level to make sure that it’s level with the surrounding tiles. Remove any excess tile adhesive to ensure you have room for the grout.

5. Add finishing touches

Leave the tile to set, check the manufacturer's instructions, but 24 hours should be sufficient. Choose a grout colour that matches your current grout and begin regrouting the tiles. Use a grout float to work in the grout around the tile (or tiles). To finish, Kerr says, “Wipe away any extra grout with a damp sponge.” Make sure to rinse out the sponge regularly in clean water. Leave the grout to dry. This will leave a film on the tile. Use a dry cloth to polish off.

Finally, if you’re laying a porous tile, you’ll need to apply a sealer to protect against damage and make it easier to clean.

FAQ

How do I match tiles?

The ideal situation is a spare tile, as Oldham points out, “If you have a spare tile left over from the original installation, that’s perfect because it means a guaranteed match.” But if you don’t have a spare, the first step is to see if the tile is still being manufactured. Start by trying the store where you originally bought the tiles. If unavailable, do an online search.

If you can’t find a perfect match, then think outside the box. Oldham says, “Think about replacing a small section to create a feature instead.” Choose a complementary colour or use an abstract pattern to create something different.

If you are on the lookout for new floor tiles, make sure to check out our Where to buy bathroom floor tiles guide. If looking for new tile ideas and inspiration, make sure to check our Bathroom floor tile ideas and Kitchen floor tile ideas.

When it comes to hardworking areas of the home, your boot room flooring might just top the list. It’s the first line of defence between the great outdoors and your carefully curated interiors, working diligently to catch the worst of the mud, mess and mayhem that life (and British weather) throws at it.

Benches and coat hooks are all well and good, but if the floor can’t handle muddy boots and wet dogs, the whole setup falls apart. That's why your choice of floor needs to be tough and durable, while still looking stylish and working with the rest of your home.

From materials that can withstand heavy traffic and moisture, to clever flooring ideas that help define the space, this guide covers everything you need to know before making that all-important flooring decision, including practical tips from industry experts who know exactly what works (and what doesn’t).

Why your choice of boot room flooring matters

A boot room floor has a lot to live up to. As well as looking good, it needs to deal with footprints (often both animal and human), moisture, dirt and whatever else your daily routine throws at it.

Claire Ryan at Karndean Designflooring agrees: “A boot room floor needs to work hard – really hard.” The key, she says, is choosing something not only hardwearing, but also moisture-resistant and easy to maintain. “It has to stand up to scratches, pet claws, and be easy to clean after a day outdoors.”

Why is it important to prepare your subfloor?

Even the most hardwearing boot room floor will fall short if the surface beneath it isn’t properly prepared. A damp, uneven or neglected subfloor is one of the quickest ways to undermine your investment.

“Damp proofing is an absolute must before installing any type of flooring,” says Paul Kerr, building and flooring specialist at Beatsons. “If damp sets in underneath, you’re in for trouble down the line, no matter what style of flooring you install.”

Paul Hambidge, managing director at Factory Direct Flooring, agrees – and stresses the importance of checking moisture levels before laying anything new. “Subfloors should be dry before you install flooring… look for less than 75% humidity.” He adds that concrete can take up to a day per millimetre to dry, so allowing enough time is essential. A handheld moisture meter (also called a hydrometer) is a worthwhile tool for the job – the Dryzone Moisture Meter Detector from Amazon is an affordable choice at just £19.99.

If your subfloor is uneven or damaged, sorting it out before installation will pay off in the long run. “The subfloor needs to be level to ensure the new flooring can be fitted correctly,” says Colin Lincoln-Evans, buyer at Tile Mountain. “If you’re installing floor tiles, uneven surfaces can be corrected with a self-levelling compound. But if you fail to do this beforehand, even minor irregularities can be magnified in the finished floor.”

For laminate and similar floating floors, underlay can help mask minor imperfections and protect against moisture. “Underlay, especially one with a moisture barrier, can help prevent your top floor from mould, mildew, and moisture that may come through the subfloor,” says Paul.

And if you’re opting for luxury vinyl, your installation method matters. “If you're installing a gluedown LVT, it requires a completely smooth and even surface,” explains Claire Ryan. “Click-lock LVT can be a bit more forgiving, but proper prep is still essential for performance and longevity.”

What are the best flooring options for boot rooms?

Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT): Low maintenance, high durability

“Luxury vinyl flooring (LVT) is such a smart choice for bootility rooms,” says Claire Ryan. “This type of flooring is designed to be durable, waterproof and low maintenance, making it perfect for busy family homes.”

LVT mimics natural stone or wood beautifully, but without the upkeep. It’s warm underfoot, ideal for homes with pets or children, and won’t scratch easily. For those seeking a quick install, click-lock systems are forgiving and fast, but if you want a sleeker, glued-down finish, it’s best to hire a professional installer.

Maintenance tip: Cleaning vinyl flooring is fairly straightforward. Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove daily mess, and mop weekly with a mild floor cleaner. Avoid steam mops, as they may damage the adhesives.

Porcelain tiles: Tough and timeless

“Porcelain floor tiles are an excellent choice,” recommends Colin Lincoln-Evans. “They’re denser and less porous than ceramic, making them resistant to water, stains and scratches. They're also generally available in slip-resistant finishes, which can be essential in wet weather.”

Isabel Fernandez, marketing director at Quorn Stone, agrees: “Porcelain benefits from being near enough stain resistant and does not require sealing, making it an increasingly popular option for high-traffic areas.”

If aesthetics top your list of concerns, porcelain tiles are available in a huge variety of styles, from classic stone effects to decorative patterned designs. “Opting for patterned porcelain tiles, such as encaustic-look or geometric motifs, can instantly add character and make the room feel like a considered part of the home,” adds Colin.

Maintenance tip: Porcelain tiles are easy to keep clean. Sweep regularly and mop with warm water or a pH-neutral cleaner. Avoid bleach-based products, which can erode grout over time.

Natural stone: Beauty with backbone

"Natural stone flooring is a durable and practical choice for a boot room, loved for its hardwearing nature and forgiving surface,” explains Isabel Fernandez. “These floors are relatively low maintenance to clean and provide the longevity of a floor that will last for years to come.”

Stone finishes – like slate, limestone or travertine – look especially beautiful in period properties. But Isabel cautions that it’s important to ensure the substrate is flat and even before installation, as this guarantees a proper finish without lippage or weak points.

“Natural stone will need sealing upon installation and resealing approximately every 4–6 years,” she explains. “However, its dense surface and natural detailing are very forgiving when it comes to hiding day-to-day dirt and mud.” In return for a little TLC, you get a floor that ages gracefully and hides mess well.

Maintenance tip: Use a stone-safe, non-acidic cleaner, and clean up spills promptly to prevent staining.

Rigid Core Click Flooring: Affordable and reliable

“For boot rooms, durability is everything,” says Paul Kerr. “Rigid Core Click is a bit more of an affordable option and has similar benefits to hardwood, while also being waterproof and durable – perfect for heavy foot traffic!”

These interlocking panels are quicker to lay than stone or tile, and they offer the waterproof resilience of LVT with the appearance of more traditional flooring. It’s a solid mid-range choice that balances performance and price.

Maintenance Tip: Clean these floors just like LVT flooring – with regular sweeping or vacuuming followed by a damp mop and gentle detergent floor cleaner.

Brick Slip Tiles: Traditional and textural

For heritage homes, rustic options like brick or matt ceramic tiles can beautifully complement the property's character. Limestone, travertine tiles, brick or matt ceramic tiles are all suitable choices.

Colin Lincoln-Evans notes that brick flooring adds warmth and texture to a boot room, and that, “using a herringbone or brick-bond layout adds visual interest that can help elongate the space or make it feel wider, depending on direction.”

Maintenance Tip: Seal porous materials like brick during installation. Sweep regularly and clean with a neutral cleaner. Avoid acidic products, which can break down sealants and damage surface finishes.

Shop boot room flooring ideas

Final touches

Once you’ve settled on your flooring material, a few smart finishing touches can help it perform even better.

“An outdoor boot scraper and door mats placed outside and inside the doorway can significantly reduce dirt and moisture being brought in,” says Colin Lincoln-Evans. This layered approach helps trap the worst of the mess before it ever hits the floor.

If you want the space to work a little harder in colder months, underfloor heating is well worth considering. As well as giving instant warmth underfoot in the winter, it can help dry out any wet clothes or shoes too.

FAQs

Can you use hardwood flooring in a boot room?

While undeniably beautiful, wooden flooring isn’t the most practical choice for a boot room. It needs careful sealing, especially around wet areas, and regular upkeep to stay looking its best. These floors may therefore be better suited to well-ventilated spaces or homes where mud and mess is the exception, not the norm.

Do I need to seal my boot room flooring?

It depends on the material. Natural stone and brick must be sealed to prevent staining and moisture damage. LVT and porcelain tiles usually don’t require sealing, although grout lines may benefit from sealing to avoid discolouration over time.

What should you consider when it comes to cleaning and maintaining boot room floors?

"You should always keep an eye out for moisture when it comes to maintaining your floors in boot rooms and similar spaces," says Paul Kerr. "Even if your flooring is water resistant, as most LVTs claim to be, they aren't totally waterproof. Cleaning up large pools of water and mud as soon as possible just makes it last that bit longer. Stone and tile flooring can fade/dull over time if any dust and dirt isn't cleaned away, sweeping and mopping with mild detergents and floor cleaners will help these surfaces keep their form."

Looking for more ways to maximise your space? Pair your chosen flooring with clever boot room storage solutions to keep shoes, coats and muddy kit organised and out of the way.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

A garage floor puts up with a lot. Whether you're storing high-end motors, DIY gear or simply housing bins and bikes, this hardworking space deserves a surface to match. And with so many garage flooring ideas available – from sleek resin finishes to affordable concrete floor paints – it’s easier than ever to combine practicality with a little polish.

Garage conversions may get the design spotlight, but sometimes a garage should stay just that – a functional space for cars and DIY. With the right flooring, you can upgrade a plain concrete slab into a cleaner, tougher, and more usable surface. From budget-friendly floor paints to hard-wearing resin and tile finishes, we explore garage flooring ideas built for cars, tools and everything in between.

Garage flooring ideas – what you need to know

"Before installing a new garage floor, particularly in older properties, thorough surface preparation is essential," explains John Foster, outdoor installation manager at Hillarys. "This involves cleaning the floor to remove oil, grease, old paint and debris, as well as repairing any cracks or holes with the appropriate concrete filler. The surface should be levelled by grinding down any high spots and filling in low areas to ensure a smooth, even base."

"It’s also important to make sure the floor is completely dry, as moisture can cause floor coatings to fail," John continues. "Proper preparation is crucial to achieving a long-lasting, durable garage floor, especially in properties that have seen years of use or neglect."

Painted concrete

If your garage is more functional than flashy, a coat of paint might be all you need. Garage-specific floor paints are easy to apply and give instant results – brightening the space, protecting the surface and cutting down on dust.

For added grip, Luke Rowberry, technical manager at Mapei, advises: “You can mix quartz sand into paint or sealants to enhance grip. Coarse quartz can be mixed with the topcoat to create a textured surface; the size of aggregate can be selected to achieve the required slip resistance.” He adds that “some coatings, like Mapecoat TNS Fast, come pre-mixed with anti-slip additives, making them a convenient option for DIY projects.”

But before you commit to painting a concrete floor, you’ll need to make sure the concrete is sealed to avoid any moisture seeping through and you should also consider the fact that it will likely need to be topped up every few years.

3 of the best specialist garage floor paints

Polished concrete

For a finish that’s both contemporary and hard-wearing, polishing your concrete floor might be the perfect solution. This process enhances the natural character of the concrete and leaves it dust-free and easy to maintain. It costs more than paint but less than epoxy, making it a great middle-ground option for garages that need durability without leaning too heavily into that industrial, showroom-style finish.

If you're tackling this project yourself, hire a concrete grinder and start with a coarse grit to smooth out any imperfections, gradually working your way up to finer grades for a sleeker finish. Once polished, apply a densifier and sealant to protect it from stains and moisture. For a flawless result that lasts, it’s worth calling in the professionals – especially if your floor is uneven or showing signs of age.

Top Tip: A polished concrete floor also pairs very nicely with underfloor heating – as long as you insulate properly beneath the slab.

Interlocking tiles

If you’re after a flooring solution that’s quick to lay, easy to clean and designed to handle daily wear and tear, interlocking tiles are a brilliant option. Made from hard-wearing rubber, PVC or polypropylene, these modular tiles simply snap into place over your existing concrete floor – no adhesives or special tools required.

“We usually recommend our clients install either solid PVC tiles or vented PVC tiles. Both options are extremely durable, capable of withstanding the weight of vehicles, and are well-suited to wet conditions," says Jamie Swales, owner and director at GarageLux Ltd.

Vented tiles, in particular, are ideal for spaces prone to moisture. “One of our customers experienced a full garage flood, and the vented tiles came through completely unscathed,” Jamie shares. It’s this ability to drain and dry quickly that makes them such a practical option – especially if you often bring in a wet car or use the space as a utility or workshop area.

Installation is straightforward, too. “In most cases, minimal surface preparation is required before installing garage tile flooring,” Jamie explains. “As long as the concrete subfloor is relatively smooth and level, the tiles can usually be laid directly on top.” But for newly built or unsealed garages, he recommends applying a concrete sealant first to help prevent dust and create a stable base.

Floor tiles also offer a more bespoke finish, allowing you to play with colour and pattern if you’re after a custom look. “Our tiles come in 12 colours, allowing you to mix and match to create unique patterns, borders, or zone areas for different uses,” Jamie adds.

Epoxy and resin finishes

If you’re looking for a garage floor that can truly stand the test of time – and look good doing it – epoxy and resin finishes are top of the list. These coatings form a seamless, high-performance layer that resists oil, moisture, and heavy impact.

“Epoxy coatings are tough, chemical-resistant and easy to clean,” explains Luke Rowberry at Mapei. “They create a seamless, polished surface that can handle heavy loads and spills. You can customise the finish with different colours, textures or decorative elements – even go glossy if you want something that really stands out.”​

You’re not limited to epoxy, either. Polyurethane and acrylic resins each have their own advantages. “Polyurethane is more flexible than epoxy,” Luke Rowberry explains. “That makes it less likely to chip if tools are dropped, and it copes better with fluctuating temperatures – ideal for garages that aren't heated year-round.” Acrylic resin, meanwhile, is a fast-curing option that minimises downtime – a bonus if you want your garage back in action quickly.

Be aware that the quality of the installation will impact the long-term performance of these floor coverings. “Epoxy needs a clean, dry, level surface to bond properly,” says Stuart Murray, founder of Retrovintage. “If you’re working on an older property, deal with any cracks or moisture issues first – skipping this step can cause the finish to fail before its time.”​

While resin flooring comes at a higher upfront cost than paint or sealant, it’s a solid investment. It won’t flake, peel or stain, and a professionally applied resin floor could last for decades with minimal upkeep.

Self-levelling floors

If your garage floor has significant unevenness, cracks or damage, applying a self-levelling compound before your final finish is a smart move. "Self-levelling compounds create a smooth, uniform surface that's essential for durable finishes like epoxy, resin or tiles," explains Luke Rowberry at Mapei. "Properly applied, it helps the flooring adhere better and prevents future cracking or peeling."

Application is straightforward – after thoroughly cleaning and priming the concrete, you simply pour the compound onto the floor, where it naturally settles to form an even surface. Once dried, usually within 24 hours, it’s ready for paint, resin coatings, or tiles. While DIY-friendly, larger garages or particularly uneven floors are best tackled by professionals.

Underfloor heating in a garage

“Underfloor heating can be a great idea for a garage, especially if you already intend to use the space as a workshop, hobby area or even a home gym,” says Luke Rowberry at Mapei. “It provides consistent warmth, eliminates the need for bulky heaters and keeps the floor comfortable during colder months."

If you’re upgrading your garage floor and want to make it more usable year-round, it makes sense to consider UFH at the same time – especially if you’re laying resin or polished concrete. These finishes are two of the best flooring for underfloor heating, thanks to their ability to conduct and retain warmth.

That said, getting the installation right matters. “Proper insulation is crucial to prevent heat loss,” Luke Rowberry adds. “Without it, the system may not be as efficient.” So it’s always a good idea to consult a professional before going ahead with installation.

FAQs

What is the cheapest type of garage flooring?

A sealed and painted concrete floor is your most affordable option. While not as long-lasting as resin, it offers a quick, budget-friendly refresh and helps control dust. For extra durability, a self-levelling compound followed by floor paint is a practical upgrade.

How long does garage floor paint last?

Typically, garage floor paint will last around 2–5 years before needing a refresh, depending on usage and surface preparation. Areas used for car storage or heavy footfall may show wear sooner and need more frequent touch-ups.

Can I tile over an existing concrete floor?

Yes – especially if you're using interlocking garage tiles, which are designed to sit directly on top of a concrete base. However, if the surface has bumps or hasn’t been sealed, make sure you first smooth out any leftover lumps and apply a concrete sealant to help prevent dust and ensure a stable base​.

Thinking beyond parking? Explore garage conversion ideas that turn underused space into something truly functional and surprisingly stylish

There are certain choices when it comes to final finishes in any home improvement project that require a little more consideration if you want them to stand the test of time – garage conversion flooring being one of them.

While garage conversions are undoubtedly one of the best ways to gain extra space and to add value to a property, the fact that they were not originally constructed to be used as habitable spaces means extra care needs to go into choosing the surface choices, such as walls and floors.

Here, we look at the best types of flooring for garage conversions, as well as the steps you can take to ensure they fit in with what you intend on using the new space for.

Steps to prepare for installing garage conversion flooring

Before getting too carried away with the garage conversion ideas that will take your space from functional to beautiful, there are a few practical considerations to bear in mind.

As part of the conversion, your garage floor should have been properly insulated and damp-proofed – both vital steps for ensuring not only that your flooring feels comfortable underfoot, but also that it won't be affected by moisture or wildly fluctuating temperature levels.

Creating a level threshold between spaces

In many cases, a garage floor will be lower than that of the main house, in which case you will need to look into how to level a floor as well as ways of adding to its height or navigating this change in levels.

Often, adding a damp proof membrane, your insulation and screed, topped with your choice of flooring, will deal with these height differences.

Where there is a bigger level change, creating a suspended timber floor within the conversion is a good way to overcome this.

In cases where the garage conversion will form an open plan space with existing rooms, it is a good idea to match the flooring throughout for a seamless finish.

How to choose garage conversion flooring

The types of flooring you choose for your newly converted garage need to suit the purpose of the space. For example, if you plan on using it as a guest bedroom, the materials and styles you go for are likely to be quite different from someone designing a garage home gym.

That said, whatever you are going to be using the space for, you should focus your attention on selecting something hardwearing and easy to clean.

“When considering flooring for the garage, durability and functionality should be at the forefront," advises Jon Flaningan, head of product at Crucial Trading. "However, that needn’t mean sacrificing style."

Underfloor heating in a garage conversion

Another consideration before deciding on the final floor covering for your garage conversion is whether or not you would like to have underfloor heating installed.

This is a great way to heat a garage conversion as it can be fitted at the same time as the insulation and new screed are being put into place. It also means you have more freedom with how you will use the new room as no wall space will be taken up by radiators.

Not all types of flooring are suitable for use with underfloor heating so take this into account when choosing.

Can you use wooden flooring in a garage conversion?

Wooden flooring is hugely popular in all kinds of spaces within the home, offering visual warmth and being available in a massive range of tones and styles, suitable for all kinds of budgets.

Engineered wooden flooring is a perfect option, for several reasons, as Ian Tomlinson, MD of Chaunceys Timber Flooring explains.

"One of the key advantages is its superior structural stability," begins Ian. "The multi-layer construction, featuring a hardwood top layer bonded to a birch plywood base resists natural expansion and contraction caused by heat and moisture, making it suitable for most environments and over underfloor heating systems. This stability ensures an extremely long-lasting and dependable floor.

"Engineered wood flooring is also easier to install than solid wood," continues Ian. "This flexibility makes it suitable for DIY projects, although professional installation is recommended for the best results. Durability is another strongpoint. High-quality engineered planks have a thick oak top layer that can be sanded and refinished multiple times, ensuring they remain a beautiful feature in your home for years to come."

Is carpet suitable for garage conversions?

If you plan on using your garage conversion as a bedroom, extra living room, snug or even as a home office, you might be wondering whether carpet is a suitable choice. While in many cases it can be, some types of carpet will be better than others.

"Carpet in the garage is a safe bet which will never go out of style, as well as injecting some pattern and colour in what can otherwise be a bland space," says Jodie Hatton, design manager at Brintons. "A cut-pile carpet is the most practical in garages. Other constructions, such as flat weave runners or tufted loop carpet, can become slippery over time as the pile wears with heavy footfall, creating a hazardous surface. Using a cut pile carpet ensures some grip underfoot.

"Where an alternative flooring, like wood or tiles, might make a room feel stark and bare, a soft woven wool carpet, layered with accessories in cashmere, mohair and linen will all work to soften the overall look,” adds Jodie.

Using tiles for garage conversion floors

Tiled floors, including those made from natural stone, porcelain and ceramic, all work well in garage conversions, depending on what you plan on using it for.

In a bedroom, they can feel and appear a little cold, but as a flooring material for a home office, playroom or, of course, bathroom, they are ideal. Plus, they work really well with underfloor heating.

If you are trying to keep your garage conversion costs down, then it is worth noting that ceramic tiles are cheaper than natural stone or porcelain.

Will natural floor coverings work in a garage conversion?

If you are after something really hardwearing and easy to keep clean for your converted garage space, a natural flooring material could be just thing.

"This is a sophisticated way to elevate this often-overlooked space, especially when the garage is being transformed into a home office, gym or creative studio," advises Jon Flanigan. "Hardwearing natural fibres such as sisal, coir and seagrass are particularly well suited to this environment. They offer exceptional strength and resilience underfoot, making them ideal for high-traffic areas where practicality is key.

"Sisal, in particular, strikes a smart balance between toughness and texture, delivering a clean, structured aesthetic with subtle warmth," continues Jon. "For a more rustic, organic feel, coir – with its rich, tactile quality – is a robust choice.

"We recommend opting for darker, grounding tones, such as charcoal, mocha or natural flax, to help disguise marks and to lend a sense of refined utility. Patterns like herringbone or fine bouclé can also introduce visual interest while maintaining a functional, pared-back style."

FAQs

What is the best flooring for a garage conversion home gym?

If, like many others, you are using your garage extension ideas to create a home gym, you need to be looking for a flooring that is durable, non-slip and easy to clean – as well as one that can withstand the weight of heavy gym equipment.

Both rubber flooring as well as vinyl are great options, as are most engineered timbers. There are also some really great products made from a polypropylene top layer that are very worth looking into.

Before settling on a floor covering for your garage conversion, be sure to investigate the type of floor insulation you will need for the space.

There's no denying that a solid wooden floor looks and feels great. But, when it comes to wooden flooring in a bathroom, the chances are it's not all it appears to be on the surface.

With water and humidity making a constant appearance in your washroom, your bathroom flooring ideas have a lot to live up to. As well as looking good, they need to perform well, last and ideally not need constant maintenance or repairs.

So, with solid wooden flooring one of the more expensive flooring options, is it worth investing in for your bathroom, or are you best spending your money on something else instead?

Wooden flooring in a bathroom: The basic rules

When it comes to wooden flooring in a bathroom, we've all seen images of bathrooms with what appears to be luxurious wooden floors, topped with luxurious freestanding bath ideas or providing a simple finish to a busy family bathroom.

So why are we saying that you can't have wooden flooring in a bathroom if you've seen it as a concept? It comes down to a basic understanding of the different types of wooden flooring.

“Hardwood is generally considered a poor choice for a bathroom as it is highly susceptible to water damage. It can warp or swell when exposed to moisture," advises Neel Bradham, CEO at global flooring brand, Parador.

Ian Tomlinson, MD, Chaunceys Timber Flooring agrees, telling us, "I would strongly advise against using solid wood flooring in bathrooms as it will soon distort due to the high humidity levels."

So, even though solid or hardwood flooring in bathroom is usually described as a no-no, what are the options to achieve the effect of wooden flooring in a bathroom without the risks?

The good news is there are plenty of options available that will offer the look and feel of wood but are designed and fitted in such a way as to reduce the chance of water permeating into the planks and destroying your bathroom design ideas.

"Despite the common misconception that wood flooring is unsuitable for rooms where water is frequently present, it can look fantastic in bathrooms as long as the correct type of wood flooring is chosen," confirms Ian Tomlinson, "and homeowners accept they need to take care to avoid leaving puddles on the floor, and to keep the room as well-ventilated as possible."

Engineered wooden flooring in a bathroom – pros and cons

For a product that looks and feels like solid wood, your main option is engineered wood flooring. Made using layers of high density fibreboard or plywood, the planks are topped with a solid wood veneer, which means when made well, it's often confused for solid wooden flooring in a bathroom.

But, unlike solid wood, it's more resistant to the wear and tear of daily life explains Ian Tomlinson.

"High-quality engineered wood flooring is specifically designed to be extremely stable and tolerant to environmental changes. It is manufactured using state-of-the-art methods, allowing it to be used in a wide variety of situations, including installation above underfloor heating systems and in bathrooms," he says.

"Products such as our Bristol Tectonic® planks are perfect for a bathroom space as they combine a durable, high-quality European oak top layer with a high-grade birch ply base to create sustainable engineered oak flooring with exceptional stability."

Of course, as with any flooring system that has gaps – however small – there is the chance that water can permeate through and it's the same with engineered wood flooring. It's essential to ensure it's fitted well and any water spills or excess moisture are removed from the area. Good bathroom ventilation is essential to help increase the product's longevity which is costlier than other wood effect products such as laminate.

Laminate wooden flooring must be waterproof

If your bathroom costs are spiralling, but you still want a wooden floor finish, you may be considering laminate flooring as a cheaper option for your bathroom renovation.

However, in most instances, flooring experts will tell you this could turn out to be false economy, especially if you choose a budget option as the answer to 'is laminate waterproof?' is generally no, with some exceptions.

While it's certainly cheaper than engineered wood, a non waterproof version will always be prone to water ingress and you could end up replacing it far sooner than any other options. Once water works its way into the seams of laminate flooring it will start to warp, making daily bathroom life a minefield, let alone keeping it clean.

However, if you pick a laminate flooring that's waterproof, such as this Quick-Step Salto Mayfair Light Grey Oak from Wickes, it's considered suitable for use in bathrooms.

Luxury vinyl tile flooring – wood effect but without the risk

If you've ever researched types of vinyl flooring, you'll have discovered the world of luxury vinyl tile (LVT) flooring where all is not as it seems – but in a good way.

Design and technology has advanced in such a way that LVT flooring is hard to distinguish from other products such as wood and tiles when you look at it – although once you set foot on it it's of course easier to establish.

"Known for its resistance to moisture and climate, LVT is ideal for both bathrooms and kitchens," explains Neel Bradham. "It provides the patterns, colours, and textures of natural wood (and concrete or marble) while being suitable for areas that may often endure excess moisture and spills.

"Vinyl flooring is still struggling to shake off its passé reputation, but beautiful, natural-looking LVT designs are now commonplace, and modern manufacturing techniques allow the flooring to be made in different formats, such as tiles and planks, making it ideal for those looking to have the look of wooden flooring in a bathroom."

Wood effect tiles – hardwearing and visually appealing

Bathroom floor tile ideas are generally considered the most suitable when choosing your bathroom flooring. Water resistant, easy to maintain and clean, hard wearing and ready to deal with most bathroom activities, they are again another potential option if you're looking to create the wooden flooring in a bathroom vibe.

Although, as with LVT, if the feel of wood underfoot is top of your list, you won't really get this from a tile. But, if longevity and appearance matter most, this could be another great option to consider.

Shop for wooden flooring in a bathroom

Installation and maintenance tips for wooden flooring in a bathroom

If you are forging ahead and installing wooden flooring in your bathroom, how can you make sure it's installed correctly and cared for in the right way?

"Firstly, ensure installation is carried out by a professional – this is no job for a DIYer," says Darwyn Ker, managing director of Woodpecker Flooring. "A professional will ensure the wood is properly acclimatised to the bathroom’s humidity levels before installation. This will prevent shrinkage and warping.

"Homeowners also need to ensure the subfloor is completely dry and level so moisture doesn’t seep into the flooring from below," he adds.

"A moisture barrier between the subfloor and flooring may also be applied, and a waterproof sealant will need to be added to the wood. This will need to be reapplied to maintain its effectiveness. Any spills and excess water from the shower or bath will also need to be cleaned immediately. But don’t use abrasive cleaners, as this could damage the sealant," he warns. "Waterproof sealants will also need to be applied regularly to ensure it remains effective in humid conditions."

However, in line with our other experts, Darwyn confirms that, "solid wood floors are not suitable for bathrooms. And while engineered wood flooring may be a consideration, as long as it is installed properly and regularly maintained, realistically, composite boards with a wood-effect finish are the best option."

Other flooring options such as vinyl and tiles also require less cleaning, although extra advice is available for cleaning LVT and sprucing up your tile grout.

Wondering what are your options for updating your bathroom flooring in the future if you change your design ideas? Find out the answer to can you sand engineered wood flooring and if you're embarking on a DIY bathroom remodelling project, follow the advice in how to fit an engineered wood floor.

Should you put flooring under kitchen cabinets? It’s a question that raises a lot of discussion between trades, interior designers and DIYers. And there’s no definitive answer, circumstances dictate how you approach the issue.

After you’ve chosen the best flooring for your kitchen, it's all about making a choice of adding flooring under your cabinets or not. Here we get the thoughts of a flooring contractor and interior designer to help you make the decision that will work best for you.

When to put flooring under kitchen cabinets

There’s a lot of debate about whether you should or shouldn’t put flooring under kitchen cabinets and the popular option is to put flooring under kitchen cabinets. But it’s not always necessary as Magda Callery, Interior Designer at Style By Magda shares, “Flooring under kitchen cabinets is like wearing matching socks – it’s not always necessary, but it sure looks polished”

But there will be times when it makes sense as Callery continues, “If you like to “change it up,” flooring under cabinets makes future renovations easier.” Plus, she adds, “Continuous flooring creates a clean, uninterrupted aesthetic, especially in open-plan kitchens.”

Putting flooring under kitchen cabinets also has more practical benefits as Ryan Meagher, Business Development Manager at BVM Contracting explains, “For all types of flooring system (apart from a floating system like a luxury vinyl plank) we prefer installing them underneath the cabinets.” He adds, “ It is much easier to install the kitchen cabinets above if the flooring is consistent throughout the kitchen.”

The reason for this is that everything will be at the same level which means less work as Meagher shares, “You do not have to worry about making the cabinets taller than they need to be to account for the loss in height from a thicker flooring material that is being installed around the cabinets.”

Try these flooring options for your kitchen

When flooring under kitchen cabinets is a no

While putting flooring under kitchen cabinets is considered the better option, there are scenarios when it's not so a wise choice as Meagher explains, "The only time we do not consider installing flooring under kitchen cabinets is if we are working with a floating system.”

He continues and explains why, “Floating flooring systems require the ability to expand and contract since they are not nailed or set in place (like hardwood and tile floors).”

There are other reasons as Callery shares, “If you’re watching the budget, why pay for flooring no one will ever see?” She suggests, “Use the extra cash for fancy drawer organizers instead.”

Also, if you are retrofitting new flooring and working with an existing subfloor and new cabinets she says, “Leaving out flooring saves time and effort.”

Pros and cons of flooring under cabinets

Here Meagher and Callery share the plus and minus points for putting flooring under kitchen cabinets.

Pros

• Consistency Meagher is a keen exponent of a level floor, “ A consistent level throughout the kitchen makes installing the cabinets and appliances so much easier.”
• Easier to do Meagher says, “Putting down flooring before the kitchen cabinets are installed means way fewer cuts will be required. And, if you ever make changes to the kitchen in the future it will be easier to do with an existing floor underneath.”
• Seamless style Callery suggests it leads to a better aesthetic, “Your kitchen floor will look flawless, even if only you know about the flooring hiding under the cabinets.”
• Moisture defense Callery says, “With flooring in place under cabinets, it can protect the subfloor from sneaky spills or leaks that may find their way under a cabinet.”

Cons

• Budget burner Meagher says, “Installing more flooring material is more expensive.” A point reiterated by Callery, “Those hidden planks aren’t cheap.”

Flooring types to avoid under cabinets

“Luxury vinyl plank or any other type of floating flooring system is not recommended to install under kitchen cabinets” shares Meagher, explaining the reasons earlier in the article.

But, there are other types of flooring, though not as popular as other flooring, best not to put under cabinets as Callery explains, “Soft materials such as cork flooring or rubber might compress over time, leaving your cabinets slightly lopsided.”

FAQS

Is it OK to put kitchen cabinets on bare floors?

The simple answer is yes you can. Meagher says, “There is no issue with installing kitchen cabinets directly on plywood or concrete floors, so it is entirely allowed if you have a tight budget or are using a floating flooring system.” But he does add anote of caution, “Just be very sure about your layout because it is going to be a pain to redo the kitchen if you do it this way.”

Callery says, “Just make sure the surface is level and sealed to avoid future drama with moisture or uneven cabinets.”

Does flooring go under appliances?

Appliances in a kitchen, typically ovens, refrigeration and dishwashers are typically treated in the same way as standard kitchen cabinets as Meagher explains, “Always put flooring under floor appliances like dishwashers and ovens,”

He adds, “It will make it so much easier to install and remove by having the flooring at the same level as the rest of the kitchen.”

Callery adds that it helps create a smooth slide, which, “Makes appliances easier to pull out for repairs or replacement.”

If you are adding or replacing kitchen flooring check out our Best wood flooring for kitchens, Kitchen flooring ideas and 13 kitchen floor tile ideas guides for insight and inspiration.

If you love your kitchen layout, knowing how to replace kitchen flooring without moving cabinets means you get to keep it, with the added bonus of a new look floor. But this isn’t the only benefit it brings.

Not having to move cabinets can be a real time saver and it means much less work for you. This will leave you with just the current floor space to contend with. You won't have to think about how to remodel a kitchen – unless you want to.

Here the experts run through the reasons, the why’s and the process to replace your old flooring without moving your kitchen cabinets.

Why replace kitchen flooring without moving cabinets?

When it comes to replacing kitchen flooring you effectively have two options, clear out the kitchen and start from scratch, or replace the visible flooring.

Here Matthew O'Grady, Director at Thomas Matthew Kitchens & Furniture reveals the reasons to take up the second option, “It can save time and money to replace kitchen flooring without having to move cabinetry. Restricting materials to visible places will speed up installation and mean less work by ditching the time and energy-consuming process of cabinet removal."

He adds, “It's not wise to break the bank for a design that will be hidden behind cabinets.” And as an added bonus this method, “Reduces the chances of damaging cabinetry or other parts of the kitchen during the removal and reinstallation.”

What is the easiest kitchen flooring to replace?

Kitchen flooring comes in many variations from self adhesive vinyl tiles right through to real wood. Some flooring is easier to replace than others as O’Grady explains, “Vinyl flooring is the easiest to replace, whether it's peel-and-stick, sheet or individual tiles, because you can just peel it off, lift or cut and replace it one by one.” Check out our how to lay vinyl tiles guides for more tips.

He adds, “Laminate flooring tails closely as it uses a click-lock system that can function without the need for adhesives or nails, which makes it easy to replace.”

If you have tiled floors they can be easy to replace especially if they are older as O’Grady shares, “Ceramic or porcelain tiles come next as they're easily replaceable when cracked, but can be time-consuming if they're newer because they're generally harder to remove.” Check out our tiling a floor guide if you decide to DIY.

Try these for great looking kitchen flooring

How to replace kitchen flooring without moving cabinets

1. Clear and clean

O’Grady says, “Start by removing all movable items in the kitchen area, from small appliances to rugs, and mop after sweeping off dirt on the floor.” This helps ensure that less dirt and debris falls onto the subfloor.

2. Remove old flooring

O’Grady says start by, “Checking whether the previous flooring was fastened down or floating.” He adds, “You can pull the boards up from the edges by using a scraper to cut glue-down flooring into tiny pieces. In this case, prying up can be easily achieved.”

If you have wooden flooring that runs under cabinets Ian Tomlinson, MD at Chaunceys Timber Flooring says, “Use a circular saw or plunge saw set to the correct depth, to cut the old flooring close to the cabinet edges, leaving a small gap (usually hidden by the kickboard or new trim).” He adds, “A multi-tool or pry bar can help remove flooring from hard-to-reach areas.”

3. Sort the subfloor

The next step is to check your subfloor as O’Grady shares, “Check for signs of water damage or rot in the subfloor. Replace damaged parts as necessary and if appropriate use a leveling compound if it's uneven.”

Tomlinson adds, “Ensure the subfloor is clean, dry, and level before installing the wood flooring. This is crucial for a smooth and durable installation.”

4. Measure and cut

The next step is to measure up the area for the new flooring as O’Grady shares, “Measure the area that will be covered by the new flooring and start cutting the new flooring material appropriately.” He adds, “Use spacers to leave an expansion gap around the edges to accommodate the material's contraction.”

Tomlison says , “Make sure to protect cabinets and appliances.” He adds, “Use painter's tape and protective coverings to avoid scratches or dust build-up.”

5. Install flooring

Installing flooring will differ for different types. Here O’Grady gives a quick overview of what needs to be done for the common types, “Apply adhesive for glued-down choices, or click-lock devices for floating floors.”

He adds, “When installing vinyl or linoleum, use a trowel to apply glue then carefully push the flooring into position. You can also use a seam roller if necessary.” If choosing the popular option of laminate or hardwood he says, “Start in the corner and work your way out to lock the pieces together.”

Tomlinson suggests, “Slide flooring boards under the cabinet kickboards to create a seamless look. If the space is too tight, you may need to trim the tongue-and-groove joints of the boards to fit up to the counters.”

And don’t forget, “Leave an expansion gap (usually 10–12 mm), and cover or fill as attractively as possible.” O’Grady adds, “Trim any baseboards and caulk any joints where the flooring sticks to the wall for a professional look."

Check out our How to fit an engineered wood floor guide for more detail.

Tips for getting a decent cut and finish around cabinets

When fitting a new floor it's important to get a neat and tidy finish on the flooring to get a good fit that won’t leave ugly gaps and leave a professional looking end product. Here Matthew O'Grady offers up a selection of tips to help.

1. Invest in quality tools

Use a high-quality jigsaw or a circular saw with a fine-tooth blade to get a precise cut and make sure the blade is sharp to prevent splintering. To help hide any flaws, always take precise measurements of the area and, if at all feasible, cut from the back or underside of the flooring material.

2. Choose the right finish

The easiest way to finish flooring around cabinets is to use a mix of trim and caulk. Trim or baseboards may help hide any flaws and give a polished effect, while caulk is perfect for gaps since it offers a paintable seal that can tolerate movement.

3. Tuck under cabinets

It’s best to leave the cabinetry in place when installing new flooring. If you're set on tucking the flooring under the cabinets, you can raise them slightly using a cabinet jack or wooden shims.

O’Grady finishes with smart general advice, "Once the flooring is installed, fill any gaps with caulk or trim, and finish off the edges with new kickboards or toe kicks for a seamless look. To get a clean cut and finish around the cabinets, be meticulous and pay attention to detail during both the cutting and finishing stages."

FAQs

How much does new kitchen flooring cost?

This depends very much on the type and quality of kitchen flooring you are using to replace your old flooring. Vinyl flooring and laminate are usually the lowest priced. Prices typically range from around £10m2 at the lower end of the scale, like these Self Adhesive Floor Planks from B&Q, to £30m2. But higher quality vinyl and laminate can easily cost £40-£50m2.

Ceramic tiles are slightly higher in price, expect to pay around £20m2 - £40m2. Engineered wood flooring and solid wood flooring are commonly the most costly. Expect to pay around £30m2 - £60m2, while solid wood flooring like this GoodHome Skanor Natural Dark Brown Oak Solid wood flooring from B&Q starts at around £50m2. But prices can drop if choosing a cheaper wood like pine or bamboo.

How much does a pro charge to install new flooring?

An experienced DIYer should be able to tackle laying self-adhesive vinyl tiles or even a floating floor system, but you will need the right tools and know-how. If you don’t have the time or are not confident in your floor laying skills then you should call in a professional.

The labour costs will depend on what flooring is being used, how large the area is and how experienced the professional is. As a general guideline expect to pay around £100 to £200 a day plus the cost of materials. An average sized kitchen will take one to two days. But, if the fitter has to take up the old floor this will be an additional cost.

If you’re going to lay a new floor it’s a good time to think about the rest of your kitchen. Check out our modern kitchen design ideas and painted kitchen ideas for inspiration. And on a more practical level take a look at our best kitchen extractor fan guide.

Choosing loft conversion flooring can be a little tricky. Not only do you want to select something that will do the new space justice in terms of aesthetics, but you also need to take into account the particular nuances of loft conversions.

Alongside picking out a floor covering that works for what you intend to use the newly converted room for, you need to consider soundproofing, comfort levels, cost and installation.

We reached out to the experts to get the lowdown on choosing the best loft conversion flooring for a range of different spaces, whether you plan on using the conversion purely for storage or as a smart new bedroom suite.

Top considerations for loft conversion flooring

When choosing flooring for a loft conversion there are several factors to pay attention to. The main one is how you are going to use this space and the type of conversion you are considering.

"Before going into the particulars of loft flooring it's important to clarify that there is a clear distinction between transforming a loft space purely for storage use – and sometimes for light hobby use – and a full-blown loft conversion, which typically involves bringing in a building firm who will need to reinforce the loft floor for heavy usage and provide a proper finish," explains Dean Taylor, founder and MD of The Loft Boys. "That also typically includes building a set of loft conversion stairs rather than what we do which is to install various types of ladders. We do get asked a lot if we do conversions and some folks can be confused as to what that actually entails.

"What we provide can be a really cost-effective alternative to a conversion though and a typical install would take 1.5-2 days and cost under £3,500," further explains Dean.

How do you prepare a loft floor?

Before choosing flooring for your loft conversion you need to carry out a little in the way of preparation.

"We would prepare the disused loft by first clearing out any old insulation or unwanted items through our removal and disposal service," says Dean Taylor. "If the property was built before 2000 we’ll also require that an asbestos management survey be conducted before we proceed with any work. This ensures that any asbestos-containing materials are tested and removed to allow our teams to work in safety. It also gives the homeowner extra peace of mind."

Insulating a loft conversion floor

Looking into how thick should loft insulation be is key to ensuring your loft conversion feels comfortable as well as helping with heat loss.

"It’s important to pick the right insulation to reduce heat loss and keep the space cosy," explains Steve Britchford, senior partner at Polycote UK. "I usually use rigid foam boards, spray foam or mineral wool since they are effective without being large."

"We install blanket insulation up to the recommended thickness across the loft floor," says Dean Taylor. "We’d construct a frame or add stilts so the flooring can sit on top whilst retaining a small air gap above the insulation. This is vital because it helps to retain airflow and avoid humidity and condensation (and it’s associated problems with damp and mould). We’ll then lay the plywood flooring in a staggered formation for extra support."

What is the best flooring for soundproofing a loft conversion?

Given that the loft is at the top of the house, you need to be sure that by converting it you won't be causing an almighty racket in the rooms below every time you walk around up there.

"Carpet is great for soundproofing with a good underlay, and if it's a first-time conversion, insulating between the joists (rockwool works well) is essential," advises Zak Gilby, managing director and co-founder of DeVis Architecture. "With timber floors, rockwool also helps reduce sound transfer to lower floors, though sound may echo a bit in the loft room itself. Thoughtful furniture placement and rugs can help with that."

"When working on loft conversions, to reduce sound transfer, you want to start with a solid foundation by placing an acoustic underlay directly on the subfloor," explains Steve Britchford. "I recommend using rubber or dense foam, as they are excellent at absorbing sound vibrations. Next, you want to layer plywood or a soundproofing mat over the underlay to increase the blocking of noise.

Royale Sonic Gold 5mm Acoustic Underlay from Amazon can be used under laminate and wood flooring and is great for reducing noise transfer.

"For lofts, I find that installing floating floors is really effective," continues Steve. "These floors basically lie over the subfloor without the need for nails or glue, which reduces sound transmission. Always make sure to leave a small gap along the edges of the room, which you can later cover with skirting boards or baseboards. This small step prevents sound from escaping through the floor seams, turning the loft into a more private and quieter space."

Which type of flooring is best for a loft conversion?

Once the subfloor is sorted you can turn your attention to the floor coverings that will give the final finish.

"From our experience, most clients tend to choose one of two flooring types: either carpet or wood (or wood-like) flooring, making up about 80-90% of preferences," says Zak Gilby.

"In general, we find many clients prefer consistent flooring from the ground floor up to the loft," continues Zak. "Timber or engineered wood is currently the top choice, and herringbone is in high demand when budgets allow, though plank-style is a great alternative."

That said, carpet and types of wood flooring are not your only options.

"For flooring, I prefer laminate and vinyl," says Steve Britchford. "They are not just light and easy to install, but they also hold up well against changes in temperature and moisture, unlike solid hardwood, which can warp."

Steve also has a warning to those considering certain types of carpet for their loft conversion.

"If you're considering carpeting for your loft, you might want to think again, especially if your loft experiences important temperature swings or if you're concerned about dust and allergens," he points out. "Carpet in lofts, especially oddly shaped ones, can also be a headache to install."

FAQs

What colour flooring works best in loft conversions?

Even once you have chosen the best material for your loft flooring, there is still the matter of style to consider.

"We usually suggest opting for lighter, warmer tones as they reflect light better, adding a welcoming feel to loft spaces that may have limited natural light," advises Zak Gilby. "That being said, a lot of our clients choose darker or more spa-inspired colours in the bathroom, especially if the loft is being converted for a master suite."

Tying your loft conversion ideas into the style and materials used elsewhere in the house is also a popular option.

Is engineered timber a good option for lofts?

If you are wondering how to choose engineered wood flooring that will be right for your conversion, you can feel pretty confident that this will be a good option.

"For timber, engineered wood is popular because it offers the look and feel of solid wood at a lower cost," says Zak Gilby. "It’s also more compatible with underfloor heating, which is becoming increasingly popular, not just on ground floors but throughout the home. Lastly, it's also a smaller profile than natural wooden planks, meaning if height isn't that great you can win back some valuable millimetres."

Converting a loft is a great way to add value and space to a house without extending its footprint, but be sure to explore loft conversion costs to ensure you know how much to budget.

It comes as no surprise that all types of flooring harbours germs. Whether it's dirt from outside or the debris from daily living, we subject our flooring to a lot. But what may come as a shock is the most common type of bacteria found on floors is mould.

What's even more disturbing is that while it's easy to tackle the dirt you can see, when it comes to our flooring, there's a fair chance it's invisible. Prefer the feel of carpet underfoot? Be warned – this is the surface where mould likes to hide the most.

How do we know? Experts conducted a survey on the different types of bacteria found on floors and of the six strains they discovered, mould came out on top.

How the tests were conducted

Factory Direct Flooring commissioned microbiologists at BioLabTests to analyse 100 swabs from floors in UK homes, taken immediately before and after cleaning the floors using common techniques (including vacuuming, steaming, mopping, sweeping, white vinegar and water, and floor wipes).

The swabs were monitored and measured for bacterial growth under lab conditions over 28 days and different types of flooring ranging from vinyl flooring through to carpet were tested as part of the experiment.

Where mould on flooring occurs the most

In order of most discovered, the top three bacteria found on floors were:

• Yeast/mould (142 CFUs, or colony forming units, on average)
• Staphylococcus (136 CFUs on average)
• Bacillus (131 CFUs on average)

“The bathroom floor was the worst for mould, followed by the hallway/stairs, then the bedroom," reveals Paul Hambidge, managing director at Factory Direct Flooring.

"In fact, mould was present on half of all the floors we swabbed, but where carpets were concerned, mould was found on all of them – but not visible to the naked eye," he warns.

And if you needed a reason to invest in some new hallway storage ideas, this may be it. Mould was also more prevalent in households where shoes were worn indoors – 181 CFUs, compared to 132 CFUs on average where shoes were never worn indoors.

Why carpet attracts the most mould

Although it's fair to assume you'd spot a bad case of mould on carpets, the early stages are not always so visible. So why is carpet such a hotspot when it comes to mould?

“Carpets can end up harbouring bacteria and other nasties that are trampled in from elsewhere and they can also end up trapping moisture within the fibres," explains Henry Paterson, Cleaning Expert at Housekeep.

"There are also mould spores in the air naturally, which can land and settle on carpets," he adds. "Add in the moisture from household spillages that aren't cleared up properly, and it's not surprising that carpets can become a hotspot for mould growth.”

Noticed mould on your skirting boards which are in close proximity to your carpet? While your carpet may not be the direct cause, it's worth checking out the signs of mould under flooring to help find the root of the problem before it gets bigger.

How to combat invisible mould on floors

The good news is, your trusty vacuum cleaner can be a great start in the fight against mould. When testing in the laboratory it was found to reduce mould on all types of flooring, by up to 99% on real wood and LVT flooring, 96% on laminate flooring and 66% on carpets.

In fact it was the best method in most cases, with floor wipes on hard flooring only having a 30% reduction rate, with steaming coming just below at 28%.

And although removing mould from carpet may require additional methods if you already have a problem, tackling the invisible spores is the best way to prevent it from spreading.

"Vacuuming is a highly effective method for removing all sorts of dirt, bacteria and allergens that are trapped in carpets, so it’s not altogether surprising that the same’s true for mould,” says Henry Patterson.

But, as well as regularly vacuuming, it's also important to remove any spores from your vacuum cleaner that you may have extracted from your carpet, advises Paul Hambidge.

“The best way to prevent dirt and bacteria from building up in your vacuum cleaner is by emptying the container, and cleaning or replacing the filter after each use – depending on the type of vacuum you have," he suggests.

"Reusable filters can usually be cleaned out by rinsing it in water, but make sure to check your specific appliance's manual first. If you regularly empty the container and change the filter, and dirt or smells are still lingering, try cleaning the bristles or even the inside of your vacuum's hose.”

Shop these robot vacuum deals to keep your floors effortlessly clean

Why mould on flooring is a problem

Although any bacteria needs to be kept at bay in your home, the impact of mould on your home and its inhabitants can lead to more serious problems if not tackled at source.

"Moulds, such as penicillium, are often found in damp homes. Yeasts and mould are opportunistic infections, meaning they are generally harmless for healthy people, but can cause serious infections in those who have a weakened immune system," explains Dr. Deborah Lee from Doctorfox.co.uk.

"Candida, [another type of mould], can also be found on work surfaces and floors, and in sinks, drains and on sheets, but traditionally the floor has been rather overlooked as a source of infection," she adds, "whereas in fact it is a holding ground for numerous infecting organisms.

"There are crevices and cracks between floorboards or tiles which are nooks and crannies where bacteria and other organisms can grow. Carpet fibres offer a great opportunity to harbour dirt and pathogens. Meanwhile, bathrooms and toilets are full of moisture and provide an ideal environment for mould. Good floor hygiene is essential for controlling the spread of infections to humans.”

Wondering what else you need to know about mould? Find out what are the different types of mould and try these budget friendly products to get of mould on some of the other surfaces around your home.

If you're thinking about your hallway ideas, it's likely flooring is high on your priority list. After all, it's the first point of contact for your feet when you get home each day and the last before you leave.

But therein lies the main issue when asking – should I have carpet in a hallway? With nothing but a door mat and threshold separating the outdoors from indoors, your hallway flooring has a lot to live up to. Can a carpet withstand the rigours of daily life?

Getting the right balance between aesthetics and practicality is key in this high-traffic area so we asked the experts, should I have carpet in a hallway to decide if the pros outweigh the cons.

Should I have carpet in a hallway?

Should I have carpet in a hallway is a bit like the question is carpet in a bathroom always a bad idea. It's likely to divide opinion and even when you weigh up all the pros and cons, it will probably come down to personal choice when you finalise your hallway design.

I can still recall damp, mouldy carpet in student bathrooms and can safely say it's never something I'd consider myself. Give me a soft bathmat I can regularly pop in the washing machine any day. And it's much the same when it comes to my views on hallways. While the idea of stepping onto something soft is appealing, the risk of dirty shoes, wet pets and heavy wear and tear has always made other options seem more sensible.

But, what do the flooring experts say? Are we a nation of hallway carpet lovers or should practicality always win when it comes to hallway flooring ideas?

Pros of carpet in hallways

Whether you live in a renovated Victorian terrace or a sleek and modern self-build, the chances are you've got at least one main entrance into your home that you enter and exit from.

Visited numerous times on a daily basis, it's an area of considerably high traffic and one where outdoor clothings, shoes, bags and deliveries collide with the indoors. If you're seeking an immediate warm welcome, the thought of stepping into a cosy carpeted hall could therefore be appealing. But are there any additional benefits beyond its soft appearance?

“Carpet in a hallway can be a great choice for adding warmth and comfort to your hallway," says Johanna Constantinou, interiors trends expert and floorologist at Tapi Carpets & Floors. "It creates a soft, welcoming environment and provides extra grip underfoot when compared to vinyl and other smooth flooring types.

“From a design standpoint," she adds, "carpet also offers an opportunity to introduce colour, texture, or pattern, creating more cohesion with adjoining rooms and stairs, if you choose the same material.

When it comes to additional practical benefits, "the softness and warmth underfoot also adds a cosy touch while helping to reduce noise – ideal for bustling households," adds Kirsty Barton, brand storytelling manager at Alternative Flooring.

Cons of carpet in hallways

Of course, while looking at your new carpet may bring you joy, the question is how long its pristine finish will last and if it really is the best option for your home. "As the hallway is a high-traffic area, it's important to select the right material, to ensure lasting durability and style," says Kirsty Barton.

Johanna Constantinou agrees: “While carpets can be a great stylistic choice for your hallway, the reality is they can be difficult to clean and require frequent maintenance due to the high foot traffic. Stains, moisture, and wear will show faster, particularly in areas exposed to outdoor shoes or pets."

And while you may have a house rule to remove shoes before you come inside, without a covered porch area or a front door canopy idea, the chances are on rainy days, everyone will clamber to get indoors at the same time, resulting in wet shoes, clothes or bags ending up on your carpet.

Dirt, stains, marks and general wear and tear are inevitable in a hallway – regardless of your flooring finish.

Doormats to help protect hallway flooring

Best carpets for hallways

But, if despite the negatives, you're still keen to press ahead with carpet in a hallway, what are the best choices you can make when it comes to choosing the right type of carpet?

Is the best carpet for stairs the same as hallways, or can you choose something different? While stair carpets often include hardwearing options such as jute or sisal, if you're barefoot or in socks by the time you reach the stairs, can you afford yourself the luxury of choosing something a little softer?

"It’s important to consider some practical factors," suggests Johanna Constantinou. "Opting for neutral or darker tones for example will help hide dirt and stains that are common in hallways, and durable, loop-pile carpets like this Jagger carpet are often the better choice for hallways as they are designed to stand up to wear and tear."

"Wool carpets are a brilliant option for hallways, offering a luxurious, warm touch while remaining hardwearing," says Kirsty Barton. "Naturally resilient, wool can withstand heavy footfall, combining both elegance and function. Available in an array of patterns and colours, wool carpets are a great choice if you wish to add a little personality to your design scheme – from stylish stripes to bold florals, carpeting your stairs with a decorative wool design is sure to make the best first impression.

"For busy families, synthetic fibres are worth considering too," she adds. "Highly durable and stain-resistant, they're an ideal choice for households with younger children or pets. Our newly launched Anywhere Ca-rPET collection for example, is a standout eco-friendly yet stylish option.

"Made from 100% recycled fibres, it mimics the look of sisal while offering softness and little maintenance, making it a great option for high-traffic areas like the hallway and stairs, either as a runner or fitted carpet.

"Finally, if a natural fibre is your preferred choice," says Kirsty, "then look to sisal and coir. Hardwearing and versatile, both fibres complement a range of interior styles and can also be made into a bespoke runner or stair runner.”

Alternative hallway flooring options

If however the need for a clean and practical floor finish weighs still weighs heavy on your mind – even with a sturdier or darker coloured carpet choice – what are your alternative options?

"While you can't stop people walking on the carpet," says Johanna Constantinou, "what you can do is add a protective barrier in the form of rugs, runners and mats.

Or, if carpet really feels like a step too far, then it's time to widen your flooring search.

“In some cases, hard flooring options like this Richmond Dana Oak Flooring, may be more practical, offering durability and easier upkeep," says Johanna Constantinou. Other options include wood flooring ideas, laminate flooring ideas, LVT flooring and of course tile or stone flooring ideas.

You can still add a rug or runner to tie in with your stair runner ideas, but will likely feel more secure in the knowledge that your hallway flooring will be more equipped to deal with the daily tread of everyday life.

Soften your wooden or tiled hallway floor with washable runners

FAQs

How much will hallway in a carpet cost?

Carpet costs can vary from £10 per m2 for a budget range up to in excess of £100 per m2 for more expensive types of carpet. Then, you'll also need to factor in carpet installation costs which is where the fitting and extra sundries such as underlay, carpet grippers all come into play. The size and shape of your hallway will also play a part, with unsually shaped rooms or awkward angles all influencing the cost.

Always make sure you get a carpet fitter to visit prior to install in order to get the most accurate quote.

Can I lay hallway carpet myself?

If your entrance hall is a fairly uniform shape and you have good DIY skills, it's more than likely an area you could tackle yourself. Carpeting stairs is a little more complicated, although stair runners are certainly considered a DIY option.

Just be sure to measure carefully and make sure you follow the expert advice in how to lay carpet to find out not just how to do it, but what tools you need to complete the job like a professional.

Undertaking a full hallway renovation project? Check out these modern hallway ideas or find out just how to tackle smaller spaces with our range of narrow hallway ideas and small hallway ideas.

Fitting vinyl flooring in a new bathroom is a popular choice. Not only do its slip, scratch- and splash-resistant properties make it a firm competitor against natural materials, such as stone, but vinyl is typically more affordable, with a style and durability to suit every budget.

So when it comes to bathroom flooring ideas, it has much to offer. However, with such a wealth of options, colours and looks, it can be hard to pair the right vinyl flooring with your bathroom scheme.

Here, we offer our favourite vinyl flooring ideas, together with tips from flooring experts.

Boost your bathroom's style with these bathroom vinyl flooring ideas 

The three types of vinyl flooring for bathrooms, from the least to most expensive, are:

• vinyl roll (also known as sheet vinyl or lino);
• glue down rigid core tiles (SPC);
• and click-fit luxury vinyl tiles (LVT).

"We always recommend luxury vinyl because it mimics the appearance of natural materials so well, so you’ll achieve a high-end finish with texture and detailing," begins Richard Skeoch, director at Hyperion Tiles.

"For example, wood-effect often features knots and grains so it’s difficult to tell the difference between the real thing. However, it is more durable because this flooring type is waterproof, making it ideal for rooms with high moisture, such as the bathroom."

"LVT comes in individual planks, and offers a more premium, realistic look," adds Mo Osman, director at Floor Warehouse. "These options often come with embossed finishes that closely mimic natural materials like stone or wood, giving you the beauty of these textures while maintaining the durability and water resistance necessary for a bathroom."

That said, roll vinyl can provide a cheap alternative in bathrooms which require a quick, budget makeover. Rolls can be picked up from as little as £50+ from flooring suppliers.

1. Mimic a high-end look affordably with vinyl flooring

One of the best things about the movement towards vinyl flooring in bathroom designs over recent years has been the innovations in capturing the textures and intricacies of natural flooring alternatives.

"Vinyl flooring is more affordable than the natural materials it’s designed to replicate, such as wood and stone," says Richard Skeoch. "Some of the latest luxury vinyl styles replicate marble, wood, including timeless herringbone design, and terrazzo for those who are looking for a striking finish in their bathroom which will stand the test of time."

"Costs can vary depending on the type of vinyl flooring you choose," adds Mo Osman. "Vinyl rolls are generally the most budget-friendly option.

"At Floor Warehouse, we offer rigid click-fit LVT, SPC, and glue-down LVT at slightly higher price points, but the additional investment is well worth it for the enhanced aesthetics, durability, and ease of maintenance. For example, our LVT stick-down options are priced between £25-£30 per m² (including VAT), while our Rigid Core LVT SPC ranges from £25-£40 per m² (including VAT)."

2. Use a marble-effect vinyl for a luxurious sanctuary

"Marble is a much-coveted flooring and wall finish in bathrooms, synonymous with boutique hotel suites and opulent high-end homes. However, the material has it downsides: namely that it is prone to staining — not the most practical of flooring choices in a room where cosmetics, toiletries and cleaning products can easily be spilled," says Claire Lloyd, Homebuilding & Renovating's business development editor.

Step in vinyl flooring. Here, a marble effect has been replicated to create this finish. Remember, however, even the best vinyl products will be printed on repeat, so when laying this type of flooring, try to pay attention to the patina to create a natural-looking variation.

Again, be mindful of your choice of vinyl. "In my experience, it can be difficult to clean stains from a textured/raised roll vinyl. LVT is much more durable and forgiving," says Claire Lloyd.

3. Utilise vinyl as a practical alternative to real wood

Although real wood flooring ages well, this material is actually not the best option for bathrooms, where high humidity and splashes are part of everyday use.

"Luxury vinyl is resistant to wear, scratches and dents so this level of durability is ideal for a high-traffic area, such as a bathroom," says Richard Skeoch. "It’s also waterproof so water spills and high humidity won’t affect it. This vinyl tends to feel warmer than tile underfoot and its slip resistant too."

"In our experience, many homeowners and designers gravitate toward wood flooring for bathrooms, but it’s not the best choice due to the risk of moisture damage, even with engineered wood," adds Mo Osman of Floor Warehouse.

"Over time, moisture changes can lead to issues like buckling or warping in wood floors. LVT, on the other hand, provides the same warm, natural aesthetic without the same risks.

"Recently, we’ve seen a surge in demand for herringbone patterns in vinyl flooring, particularly in LVT and SPC (Stone Plastic Composite) products. These styles bring the wood flooring look to the UK market but with the added benefits of water resistance and durability," he adds.

4. Embrace the warmth of vinyl underfoot in the bathroom

LVT and other vinyl products can also be a little more comfortable underfoot — meaning when you arrive bare-foot on a cold winter's morning, you won't get the chill you would expect from porcelain or real stone tiles.

The material, particularly LVT, also works well with underfloor heating to achieve every bit of a luxurious experience in the bathroom. That said, you need to check with the flooring supplier or manufacturer the maximum temperature your flooring finish can withstand before specifying it with underfloor heating in a bathroom.

5. Stay on-trend with affordable vinyl

Although we would recommend you consider your bathroom vinyl flooring ideas with longevity in mind, the simple and cost-efficient nature of vinyl might encourage homeowners to be braver in terms of the styles and patterns they choose.

Keep a firm eye on the latest trends and you can make a real impact by choosing a bold option for your flooring when renovating a bathroom.

Opting for a style that is adaptable, such as this stylish concrete-effect rigid tile, will make it easier to update the look of the room further down the line as the classic black and white scheme can be updated with different colours and accessories.

6. Be bold with patterned vinyl in a cloakroom

Homeowners tend to feel emboldened with cloakroom or downstairs bathroom ideas, choosing brighter colours, braver wallpapers and bolder patterns, but don't always want to spend huge amounts to get the look.

Vinyl's budget appeal and customisable designs means you can create exactly what you want without breaking the bank in small spaces.

This stylish, neutral bathroom displays the effectiveness of simple, yet visually interesting design. The patterned flooring is highlighted by the artwork on the wall while a tongue and groove panelling makes the room feel welcoming.

7. Use LVT on floors — and walls!

Unbeknownst to many, rigid vinyl and LVT can both be installed not just on the floor, but also on walls.

Vinyl's properties as a floor material also make it great as a splashback behind vanity units and toilets. It can also be used to blend unsightly boxing in of pipework to make every decision feel intentional.

In this bathroom, a concrete-effect tile has been used on both the floor and walls to complete the industrial-inspired effect. The large-format tile replicates the appearance of poured concrete, while annoying grout lines of porcelain or ceramic tiles are eradicated.

8. Keep maintenance to a minimum

Another benefit of introducing vinyl flooring ideas in the bathroom is the ease of maintenance.

"Low level maintenance can be done by dry brushing every few days but for a deeper clean LVT flooring can be vacuumed and mopped," explains Lidia Cetrangolo-Kane, marketing manager at bathroom wall panel specialist Multipanel.

For more on the best ways to approach cleaning and removing stubborn stains, read our guide to how to clean vinyl flooring.

9. Keep a bathroom renovation simple with vinyl

Unlike other flooring types, the vast majority of vinyls can be installed over an existing floor materials. "It can be installed over existing flooring such as old tiles, without extensive prep work," confirms Richard Skeoch. This will keep any bathroom revamp quick and pain-free.

Doing the job on a DIY basis may be achievable for competent DIYers — just follow our guide on how to lay vinyl flooring for step-by-step instructions. (That said, bear in mind that some LVT suppliers/manufacturers require installation by an approved installer in order for their product warranty to remain valid.)

10. Inject colour with vinyl bathroom flooring ideas

This bathroom is a masterclass in how to introduce colour without creating a space that is overwhelming. The subtle pinks and blues of the patterned vinyl flooring have been expertly picked out in the wall panelling and vanity unit.

The result is a serene, yet charming room that anyone would covet.

Keen to know more about specifying vinyl flooring in your home? Check out our guides to fitting LVT DIY and how much LVT flooring costs to install.

Stain vs varnish is a choice you typically have to make when treating wood. For instance, are you looking to change the appearance of your wooden floors? Or perhaps you want to add a level of protection to help keep out moisture and dirt from your wooden furniture?

These are two common scenarios, but not only ones, where stain and varnish are the preferred choice. But what you choose may depend on what type of wood flooring, joinery or furniture you have, what finish you want, and how it's going to be used. Here the pros help you make the right choice for your project.

Stain vs varnish: When and where you should use them

Stain and varnish are both ideal for wooden floors and furniture, but they have different properties and uses. Brandon Walker, Construction manager at ASAP Restoration LLC delves into the best scenarios for both, starting with stain. 

Where and when should I use stain?

“You should use stain anytime you need to protect a wood surface but you don’t want to cover it up with paint," shares Walker. “That said, you can also use varnish in these scenarios if you don’t want to tint the wood a new colour that isn’t already present in the grain.”

So why use wood stain? “Stain is commonly used to change the appearance of a particular wood. This can mean making softwoods look like hardwoods, or just covering up defects and damage in hardwoods in general.”

Now you know why stain is used, what and where it is typically applied. Walker explains: “The applications for stain are nearly endless, but most of the time it is used to amplify or enhance a wood product that people see often, such as flooring, bannisters, furniture and mantelpieces.” 

What wood works well with stain?

Are all woods suitable for stain? What types of wood are best for staining? “Raw wood is a prime candidate for staining because it protects the wood, and it enhances the natural grain beauty that is already there to start.”

However, if you have an engineered wood floors or surfaces this will often already be stained as Walker explains: “Engineered hardwoods tend to come with a stain and sealant already embedded in them so this means that usually they don’t need any additional treatment.”

Elsewhere Walker suggests that: “Wood furniture will need a protective stain/sealant combo. It may require a varnish as well, to ensure that the outside layer of the wood doesn’t get damaged by the elements.”

He adds: “Hardwoods should really just be protected with sealant like varnish to allow the natural beauty of the wood to shine through, but softwoods will likely require both to make them look better and protect them from damage.”

Where and when should I use varnish?

Varnish is different to stain. “Stain penetrates the wood while varnish is a sealant that adheres to the top layer of the wood surface,” Walkers says, explaining the key difference. “Use varnish when you want to keep the natural colour of the wood intact without adding colour.”

Varnish is typically used on projects where, “people want to preserve the natural colours and grain of the wood surface.” He continues that: “It’s the common choice for projects like flooring, kitchen tables, end tables, desks, and anything else that requires protection, but not colour changes.”

Joseph Tauscher, production coordinator at remodelling company Lamont Bros adds: “Some varnishes can be tinted, but they are generally clear and protect against moisture, wear, and UV light. For any project involving wood, always add a protective finish like varnish to ensure longevity and durability.” 

Can stain and varnish be used together?

The simple answer is yes, with a host of scenarios you could use these two together. Why? Walker keeps it simple and to the point: “Stain will provide the colour and varnish will provide the protection.”

“A coffee table is a good example of a wood surface that may need both stain and varnish to get the best results. The stain may be needed if the wood is less than ideal looking, and the varnish will be needed to protect the surface because coffee tables get a lot of use.”

But how do you apply them so they work together cohesively? Tauscher explains: “Typically, you would first apply the stain to achieve the desired colour, let it dry for 12-24 hours, and then apply a varnish or other top coat to protect both the wood and the colour.” 

He adds: “It’s essential to ensure compatibility between the products, especially when mixing oil-based and water-based finishes. When done correctly, this combination can enhance the appearance and durability of wooden surfaces." 

FAQs

Do I need to remove varnish before staining? 

Varnish provides a hard-wearing protective layer that helps repel dirt, stain and water, so you cannot add a stain directly on top of a layer of varnish. If you do it will quickly flake off, or if on floors footfall will cause it to be scuffed off quickly.

Ideally you want to remove the layer of varnish before you add a stain to get the full effect of the stain. However, you can sand off the shine of the varnish and apply the stain, but it's unlikely you will get quite the same finish as going back to bare wood.  

Does stain and varnish make wood waterproof? 

Varnish provides a layer that sits on top of the wood which helps repel water, effectively making it waterproof. Stain works slightly different and soaks into the wood fibres, and will offer a level of water resistance rather than being waterproof.  

If you are going to stain or varnish wood there’s a very good chance you will be sanding wood before you add either. If refreshing a floor, again there’s a good chance you will be sanding floorboards ready for a new finish. Check out our staining wood floors guide if looking to add a new colour to your floor.   

If you're considering a new carpet, the chances are you've already done some research into the different types of carpet. If so, you'll already understand that not all carpet is made equally, and this means the price tag for some carpets is more than others.

As is the case with many of the products you purchase when home building or renovating, the price you see on the display doesn't always include fitting. So, as well as budgeting for the carpet cost per m2 – which can vary widely for different types of carpet – you'll also need to add on carpet installation costs.

But what exactly is included with carpet fitting costs and how much extra do you need to set aside? To help you plan your budget, here's what the experts have to say.

Carpet installation costs — how much does it cost to fit a carpet?

"Most carpet fitters charge around £150-£200+ per day and the price you end up paying will obviously depend on how large the area you are having carpeted is," says renovation expert Natasha Brinsmead. "For a single, standard-shaped room, a new carpet could take just an hour or two to lay, while a whole house may well take up to two days."

Carpet fitters may, however, provide a quote based on a per m2 or room basis, rather than a day rate.

However, there are many elements which influence carpet installation costs – from the complexity of the installation to the cost of the underlay – as we explain in detail below.

What affects your carpet installation costs?

Although visiting a carpet showroom or looking online will immediately give you carpet costs for a huge variety of carpet types and finishes, what it doesn't take into account is the extras that will need to be included.

“When calculating carpet installation costs, several elements come into play, including the type and quality of the carpet, which can vary significantly in price," says Johanna Constantinou, Tapi’s interior trends expert and keen floorologist.

“Additionally, costs are influenced by underlay material, labour rates, and any necessary preparation work for the subfloor, all of which contribute to the overall expense of the project," she explains.

"Of course, every and project is unique to its own set of installation house factors, and while you can use tools such as the Tapi carpet calculator to find an estimate of the carpet product costs, installation will be dependent on all of the aforementioned factors."

Carpet installation costs

Types of carpets and how this affects your carpet installation costs

Whether you're seeking the best carpet for living rooms or the best carpet for pets, you'll have come across a variety of carpet costs that start low, and in some cases, end at eye-wateringly expensive.

Johanna Constantinou explains why there's such a difference when it comes to different carpet types such as wool vs polypropylene.

“Carpets made from high-end materials like wool, tend to be more expensive because they often require more intricate manufacturing, installation techniques and specialised skills. Choosing carpets with intricate patterns or custom designs, as well as those with high-density constructions or advanced features like stain resistant carpets, can also drive up the cost," she explains.

“The least expensive type of carpet is typically made from polypropylene (olefin), a synthetic fibre that is budget-friendly due to its lower production costs. The material is known for being stain and moisture-resistant, though it may not be as durable as other materials like nylon," she adds.

"Another affordable option is loop pile (berber) carpet, especially when made from synthetic fibres, offering reasonable durability at a lower price point.”

The good news is that although the product price can be vastly different, as can indeed the underlay, the fitting costs won't be as inflated if you opt for a more expensive carpet.

"At Tapi, costs for carpets range from £6.99 to £109.99, underlay starts at £7.99 per square metre and in the UK, you are likely to find a carpet installer at the rate of £25 - £35 per hour,” says Johanna.

Some types may take longer to install

However, there may be different ways in which the carpets need to be fitted that could impact on the time it takes for carpet to be laid, and therefore increase your material and labour costs says Kirsty Barton, brand storyteller at Alternative Flooring.

“Certain floor coverings, like natural flooring made with plant fibres, are best installed using a 'double stick' method for long-lasting results. This process involves first adhering a suitable underlay to the subfloor before glueing the floor covering on top of the underlay, with a suitable gripper that’s also used around the room's perimeter," she explains.

"This method is crucial as plant fibre floor coverings can shift or shrink if not secured properly. The double-stick approach prevents these issues, ensuring a flawless fit."

In certain instances, you may also need to let the carpet breathe in the room before your installers arrive.

"Natural fibres also need to acclimatise to the room’s environment for at least 48 hours before installation," advises Kirsty. "They should be unwrapped and loosely rolled in the space to further adjust to the temperature. While this method requires more time, additional materials and preparation than a conventional carpet fitting, the investment results in a durable, beautifully installed floor covering that will stand the test of time.”

Other factors influencing installation costs

“Each carpet and flooring project is unique and there may be elements to your instalment that increase or decrease costs, like the shape of the project room for example," says Johanna. “Carpet thickness and labour costs in your area will also have an impact on the final bill."

"Beyond labour and the type of carpet, additional factors like the best underlay for carpet, grippers, and subfloor preparation all play a vital role," adds Kirsty Barton. "It's easy to overlook essentials such as adhesives (depending on the installation method) and door bars or thresholds, which can vary in price.

"Your fitter will guide you through these details and may recommend options that add to the initial cost," she says, "but will ultimately ensure your carpet looks and performs its best.”

In addition, it's worth checking if your quote also includes the delivery of the carpet, and the removal and disposal of the old carpet. Taking up and disposing of the latter yourself on a DIY basis, is one way to save on costs.

"Another associated cost, particularly if you're swapping a different type of floor covering, such as vinyl, for carpet, or you are specifying a thicker underlay – which is often the case when renovating – is the cost of trimming the door to accommodate the higher floor level," says Claire Lloyd, Homebuilding & Renovating's business development editor.

"This a task is well within the capabilities of a competent DIYer, but a carpenter may charge in the region of £40-£50."

Before you get a carpet installation cost, it's also worth asking yourself the following questions in order to identify additional areas that may increase or hopefully decrease the final amount you have to pay:

• Which rooms do I want carpeted? Having to carry the carpet upstairs, fit it to awkward shapes or encountering problems accessing the house e.g no parking, may all influence the final fee
• What is the condition of the floor? Is it an older floor with old glue or carpet gripper still in place for example? This could require more preparation and extra costs
• Have I picked a patterned carpet and does this need to be matched between rooms and doorways?
• Is the room I want carpeted empty? Having to move, or work around furniture can make it a longer and therefore more expensive job

Stair carpet fitting costs

If you're considering stair carpet ideas, be aware that, "installing carpet on stairs is a more intricate process compared to laying it on flat floors," explains Johanna Constantinou. "The stairs require careful measurements, precise cutting, and secure attachment to fit the contours and tricky angles of the staircase.

“This accuracy demands more time and expertise from the installer, meaning that it will cost a little bit more. Additionally, stairs often necessitate extra materials, such as stair nosings or edging, to create a neat and finished appearance,” she adds.

It's also worth bearing in mind, the more intricate the stairs, the more your costs will increase says Kirsty Barton.

“Turns and winders require thoughtful planning and expertise, particularly if your chosen carpet has a pattern or stripes. Precision is key to ensuring the carpet fits snugly around each step, avoiding looseness or bagging," explains Kirsty. "Achieving this level of detail takes extra care, time and attention compared to a flat surface area, or even a straight staircase, so you can expect to pay a slightly higher cost for the installation."

To make sure you have an idea of how much carpet you will need in order to add on underlay, follow our guide on how to measure carpet for stairs.

How to prepare for carpeting fitting

For a smooth and speedy job, it's worth investing some time in making sure your room is as ready as it can be before the carpet fitters arrive. This is easier to achieve when you are undertaking a self build project, but potentially more tricky if you are renovating or upgrading an existing room.

Nonetheless, there are several key steps you can take to take to make the process easier.

“To ensure your floor is ready for a beautiful carpet to be fitted, it’s important to make sure that the subfloor is dry, level, sound and dust-free and prepared to British Standards," says Kirsty Barton.

"Your carpet fitter should go through this with you and offer help and guidance if needed. It’s also important that before installation, there are no sources of excessive moisture in the area where the floor covering is going to be laid, such as damp walls, as this could damage your carpets overtime if fitted in unsuitable conditions.”

In order to help keep carpet installation costs down, Johanna also recommends the following.

“To prepare your floor for carpet installation, ensure the room is clear of furniture and clean it thoroughly. It’s also important to communicate any concerns you may have with the installer when you book them in for the job, so that they can prepare accordingly," she says.

“You can of course ask them if there is anything you need to do before they visit," says Johanna, "but ultimately, on the day, it is their job to carry out the installation, so don’t attempt any handy work yourself.”

My personal top tip? It's the same one I suggest for any tradesman you have hired to work in your home. Never underestimate how far the offer of a cup of tea and a biscuit goes in generating a good working relationship. Just make sure they don't spill it on your new carpet!

FAQs

When should I arrange for my carpet to be fitted?

“For the best results, install your carpet last when decorating a room," says Johanna Constantinou. "This helps avoid damage from paint or other decor, makes cleaning up easier, and ensures accurate measurements for the carpet.”

"The key is to choose what’s best for your home, while considering a few important factors," says Kirsty Barton. "Installing carpets first can minimise the risk of scratches or dust that might occur when fitting the carpet, with no need for touch ups. On the other hand, painting first protects your new carpet from any accidental paint spills, even with the dust sheets in place.

"Every professional has their preferred approach," she adds, "so it’s wise to ask for their input when planning your next steps.”

If you do have the misfortune of a painting accident post carpet fitting, find out how to get gloss paint out of carpet.

I'm on a budget — should I invest in good carpet or better underlay?

“Both carpet and underlay are crucial components of a successful flooring installation," says Johanna Constantinou. "However, if you're on a budget, investing more in the carpet is generally a better strategy.

“A higher-quality carpet will likely last longer, look better over time, and provide better insulation and comfort. It's a long-term investment that can save you money in the future," she adds.

However, it could also be worth considering a slight compromise so that the quality of your underlay matches the quality of your carpet.

"Installing an expensive carpet without the right underlay can lead to a lack of softness and durability," warns Kirsty Barton, "negatively affecting the overall experience. A quality underlay will not only add comfort and bounce but will also significantly improve how your carpet looks and performs overtime, making it an essential part of the investment.”

Can I lay carpet myself?

If you have a reasonable level of DIY skill and you're working on a new home where the floors are even and smooth, you could fit a new carpet yourself. Arm yourself with the right knowledge courtesy of our how to lay carpet guide and start by tackling a simply shaped room to practise your new skills without too much risk.

Bear in mind you may also need to invest in a couple of tools, including a carpet stretcher. Although carpet fitting kits, like this VonHaus carpet fitting set from Amazon, can be picked up relatively cheaply.

Of course, choosing the right flooring for your home doesn't just involve considering carpet. There are a wide range of options available to you and what you choose will depend on your budget, lifestyle and personal style preferences.

For more ideas, find out what is Karndean flooring to see if luxury vinyl tiles may be a more suitable option in a busy family home. Or perhaps you might want to consider stair runner ideas rather than a fully carpeted staircase. Runners can be a good solution if you've recently renovated a wooden staircase but want to add an additional layer to dampen the noise and improve the feel underfoot.

Stripping vs sanding wood floors is one decision you may need to make when it's time to give your wooden floor a makeover. Deciding which of these methods is going to work best for your surface will come down to a number of factors. Is the floor painted and needs stripping? Do you want to stain the floor a new colour? Fed up with the old colour and want to show off the natural grain of the wood?

Your new choice of finish and the current state of the surface will help determine which direction to take whatever type of wood flooring you have. Here you’ll get expert opinion to help you choose what’s right for your floor, and we recommend a few tools to help get the job done.

Stripping vs sanding wood floors: What's the difference?

When it’s time to update the surface of a wooden floor you’ll typically need to choose to strip or sand the floor to get the finish you want.

Here Kirk Evans, Technical Manager at Woodpecker Flooring, reveals the differences between the two: “Stripping involves the chemical removal of the existing finish on the wood, using a stripping agent to dissolve the old varnish or paint. This process requires tools like paint scrapers, stripping brushes, and protective gear to handle the chemicals safely.

“Sanding, on the other hand, physically removes the finish by grinding down the surface of the wood," he says. "You’ll need a drum sander, edger, and various grades of sandpaper. Sanding is more aggressive as it removes not just the finish but also a layer of the wood itself, allowing for a fresh surface to be exposed."

Is sanding or stripping wood easiest?

If you have the option to choose either method, which one should you choose? This can depend on what tools you might already own, but when it comes to ease of use. “Sanding generally takes the lead,” explains Evans. “Sanding is typically quicker as it combines both the removal of the finish and the smoothing of the surface into one step.”

He adds that, “Less preparation is needed because the sanders do most of the work, and modern equipment often comes with dust collection features, reducing the mess.”

Stripping is definitely more involved as Evans explains: “Stripping requires meticulous preparation and handling of chemicals, which can be more time-consuming. Although less messy in terms of dust, it involves careful application and scraping, making it a slower and sometimes more tedious process."

Try these tools when sanding or stripping a floor

When should you strip a wooden floor?

Different finishes work well with different removal methods and stripping is definitely a better option in certain scenarios as Evans shares. “Stripping is ideal when you want to remove multiple layers of paint or finish, especially if the surface is uneven or has intricate details that sanding could damage.”

But, it's also suitable, “When working on floors that have been finished with materials that are difficult to sand, such as certain types of varnish or wax.”

Evans also suggests that, "Stripping is often the best option if you’re dealing with a historical or delicate floor that you want to preserve without removing too much of the original wood."

When should you sand a wooden floor?

"Sanding is recommended when the floor is in relatively good condition but has surface scratches, dents, or a dull finish,” shares Evans. “It’s also the go-to method if you want to change the colour of the wood through staining, as it creates a clean, bare surface that’s ideal for absorbing new finishes.

“If your goal is to smooth out the wood and prepare it for a fresh coat of varnish or paint, sanding is usually the most effective approach," he adds.

How often can you strip or sand wooden floors?

Not all wooden floors are made equal, with solid wooden floors having a longer shelf life than engineered wooden floors as Evans explains, “Solid wood floors can be sanded several times over their lifespan, depending on the thickness of the wood. Typically, solid wood can handle three to five sandings before it starts to lose its structural integrity.”

But it isn’t the same for stripping. “Stripping can be done more frequently since it doesn’t remove layers of the wood itself, but it should still be done with care to avoid damaging the surface,” he says.

Engineered wood floors are different to solid wooden floors, in the fact that have a veneer of wood and can’t be sanded as often as Evans shares: "Engineered wood floors, however, have a thinner top layer of hardwood, so they can only be sanded once or twice, depending on the thickness of the veneer.

“Stripping is usually safer for engineered wood as it preserves the limited hardwood layer."

If you are sanding a wood floor to get the colour that you want, make sure to check out our staining wood floors guide. If you want to keep the natural grain check out our varnishing wood floor guide. If not sure what you want then check our wood flooring ideas to help you decide.

Vinyl flooring offers an affordable and durable alternative to hardwood floors, but unlike wood, it’s not as easy to refresh with a quick sanding and a new coat of paint. So, what’s the solution when your vinyl floors lose their lustre?

Before grabbing a paintbrush, it’s essential to ensure you have the right tools and know-how. While not all experts recommend painting vinyl floors, it is possible to give your space a fresh look with the right preparation and paint.

To help you tackle this DIY project with confidence, we consulted flooring experts and professional decorators to explore whether painting your vinyl flooring is a smart choice and how to do it properly.

Can you paint vinyl flooring?

Painting vinyl flooring may seem like a quick and budget-friendly way to breathe new life into your home, offering a fresh look without the hefty cost of replacing the entire floor. However, before you jump in, it’s important to understand that this project comes with its own set of challenges.

Vinyl flooring is celebrated for its durability and low maintenance, but these strengths can be compromised when you add a layer of paint. The very qualities that make vinyl resistant to stains and scratches also make it difficult for paint to properly adhere to the surface.

"Painting vinyl may not be the best idea for a DIY project," cautions Neel Bradham, vinyl flooring specialist and CEO of Parador.

"Painting this type of flooring requires careful preparation and the use of specific paints and sealants to ensure a durable finish. Despite these efforts, the painted surface may not be as resilient as the original vinyl, potentially leading to chipping and wear over time."

Steve Britchford, Senior Partner at Polycote, agrees: "Adding paint to these floors might just dial these advantages down. High-traffic areas can especially take a hit, with the paint wearing off faster than you'd like." While a fresh coat of paint can certainly enhance the appearance of your space, it’s likely to be a temporary fix rather than a long-term solution.

That being said, painting your vinyl flooring can be a great quick fix, especially if you're in the middle of a home renovation or just not ready to commit to a full floor replacement yet. It offers a budget-friendly way to refresh your space and gives you the flexibility to try a new look without a major investment.

Choosing the right paint for vinyl flooring

"When painting laminate floors or vinyl flooring, using a paint that's both tough and flexible gives you the best results," explains Steve Britchford from Polycote. "From my experience, water-based latex paint is the top choice. It adheres well to vinyl and can handle all the foot traffic your floor has to deal with.

"Specifically, look for paints that include acrylic resins. These are important because they help the paint stay intact without cracking as the flooring naturally flexes."

Emma Irving, Senior Product Manager for Tor Coatings, recommends Rust-Oleum's durable and washable Floor Tile Paints, as the water-based formula is water resistant, making it perfect for kitchens and other high-traffic areas such as hallways.

"The Floor Tile Paint range contains an activator that when mixed with the original formula creates even more durability," explains Emma. With the addition of the activator, this product does not require a sealer, Emma explains. "But we would recommend allowing the paint to achieve its full cure before using any abrasive cleaners and limiting water contact as much as possible during the curing period."

Preparation

"Proper preparation is the secret to a paint job that sticks," says Steve Britchford from Polycote. To give your project the highest chance of success, he recommends following these important pre-painting steps:

• Kick things off by giving your floor a good scrub with gentle detergent. This gets rid of any remaining dirt, grease, and wax.
• Next, it's sanding time. Go over the surface with a fine-grit sandpaper grade to rough it up a bit; this helps the paint cling better.
• After sanding, mop up all the dust with another round of cleaning.
• Then, lay down a primer made for vinyl/laminate. This will ensure your paint has a solid foundation to adhere to. Use products such as Trade Super Grip White Multi-surface Primer from Dulux, available from B&Q.

"It's always a good idea to protect your hands and eyes with protective glasses and gloves and prepare the area around you by removing all furniture, laying down dust sheets, and masking areas you do not wish to paint," adds Emma Irving from Tor Coating.

How to paint vinyl flooring: Step-by-step guide

Once you have prepared your vinyl floors for painting by thoroughly cleaning, sanding, and priming them, you can move on to the following steps:

1. Mix the paint

If you are using a two-part paint like Rust-Oleum’s Floor Tile Paints, begin by thoroughly mixing the activator with the base paint. This step is essential as it ensures the paint will have the durability needed for a high-traffic area. Mixing your chosen paint thoroughly will also ensure that the colour and consistency are even, which is essential for a smooth finish.

2. Start with the edges

Using a paintbrush, carefully paint the edges and any intricate areas of the floor first. This allows you to get a precise finish in the areas where a roller might not reach. Starting with the edges also helps prevent accidental smudging as you move to the larger areas.

3. Use a roller for large surface areas

For the larger sections of the floor, switch to a paint roller. This will allow you to apply the paint evenly, distribute the paint smoothly and quickly, and reduce the chances of streaks or uneven patches. You may also find it helpful to work in small sections.

4. Apply multiple coats

For the best finish, experts recommended applying at least two coats of paint. Allow the first coat to dry completely before applying the second. This step is crucial for achieving a uniform color and a durable finish. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for drying times between coats.

After the second coat has dried, inspect the floor for any missed spots or areas that might need a touch-up with your paintbrush.

5. Allow the paint to dry completely

While the paint might feel dry to the touch in just a few hours, it still needs time to fully cure. Curing is the process where the paint hardens and reaches its full strength, which can take several days. During this time, try to keep foot traffic light and avoid getting the floor wet or using harsh cleaners.

6. Seal the floor

Once your painting is done, don't forget to seal it with a clear polyurethane sealer. Steve Britchford suggests using a water-based sealer to prevent any yellowing over time. "It's best to apply several thin layers, letting each one dry completely before adding the next," he explains. "This step is important as it protects your efforts and extends the life of your painted floor."

A product such as Ronseal Clear Laminate Sealant from B&Q will work well for this task.

Maintenance and longevity

"How long your paint job will last depends on a few things: the quality of the paint, how well you prepared the surface before starting, and how much traffic the area gets," explains Steve Britchford. "In busier households, you might need to do some touch-ups or even a full repaint every one to three years."

To get the most out of your painted floors, keep them clean with regular dusting, avoid getting them wet, and don't use harsh cleaning chemicals on them.

Painting vinyl flooring can provide a quick and budget-friendly refresh, but it's important to understand that your newly painted surface may not withstand the daily wear and tear of household traffic. Over time, you may want to weigh the cost of LVT floors.

In the hunt for practical, low-maintenance floor finishes for our homes, one option which is pushing to the fore in modern homes is microcement flooring.

If you're looking at the different types of flooring available for your self-build or renovation, microcement flooring may be a good option to consider. With an appearance similar to polished concrete, it's called 'micro' as compared to other concrete flooring, it is laid in a far thinner layer of only around 2-3mm.

But what else is there to know about microcement and is it suitable for use across your whole home? Is it restricted to use on flooring or can it be used elsewhere? How is it laid and can you install it yourself?

We asked the experts all these questions and more in our guide to microcement flooring.

Microcement flooring isn't polished concrete flooring

While the finished appearance of both may be similar, the two types of flooring are not the same and there are a number of differences between microcement flooring and polished concrete flooring.

As previously stated, microcement flooring is laid in a much thinner layer compared to the 100mm layer usually required for polished concrete. It also requires less finishing, is laid by hand and is generally less prone to cracks.

"Polished concrete will require diamond polishing to get it to a certain gloss whereas microcement is finished by hand, and can also be applied to a much larger surface area before requiring expansion joints," explains Jason Hyatt, managing director at The Resin Floor Co.

"And of course, perhaps one of the most benefical reasons to homeowners for using microcement flooring," adds Jason, "is that it can be laid much later in the project as it requires less drying time."

"Polishing concrete can be a long, messy, costly process," agrees Richie Butt, Technical Director at Relentless Microcement, "and you will also have little control over the end result in terms of colour and patina."

Types of microcement flooring

Microcement is sometimes referred to as microtopping, microcemento, microscreed or microcrete, but is generally a product made from a mixture of cement, polymers, fine aggregates and additives.

However, Jason Hyatt says it is the addition of different items such as epoxy and acrylic which creates the different types, as follows:

• Mono-component microcement: This 'traditional' microcement is made from powder and water. It is suitable for most stable surfaces and can be mixed with pigment to create most colours, or to mimic the effect of polished concrete. It requires sealing but is low VOC, quick- drying and UV stable.
• Bi-component microcement is made from powder with the addition of polymer liquids which increase flexibility during application. It can be colour mixed and has more water and movement resistance. It is UV stable but may require comparatively longer drying times.
• Epoxy microcement, as the name suggests, is made from powder mixed with epoxy resin. Offering extra durability and resistance, it's well suited to high-traffic areas but is best applied by a professional. It's less environmentally friendly, has low UV stability and more costly to buy and apply.
• Acrylic microcement often comes as a pre-mixed product making for easier application on site. It has good resistance to water and stains, colour choices and a good option for DIY enthusiasts. It is, however, more expensive than mono or bi-component microcement. Some lower VOC versions available.

Installing microcement flooring

Suitable surfaces for installation

"Microcement is incredibly versatile, as long as you have a solid, stable surface, you can apply microcement to," says Richie Butt, with screed and self-levelling compound the most stable.

It's the stability of the substrate that is one of the most important elements of the installation process, says Jason Hyatt.

"If you are looking to lay it over tiles in a renovation project, for example, you would need to check for cracks, grind the surface of the tiles, apply mesh and epoxy and then the microcement," he explains. "You could also add a self-levelling screed prior to the microcement if you were unsure about any discrepancies in levels." Find out more about what's involved with this in how to level a floor.

"You can also apply microcement to composite timber flooring like ply and OSB," says Richie Butt. "However, we would always recommend using a high performance primer, which will help to bridge the joins and add strength to the surface."

Professional install vs DIY

Even with a suitable surface available, preparation is key in order to avoid any problems further down the line. With a smooth, crack-free and level surface your end goal, it's usually best applied by professionals. Although Richie Butt notes how there are a number of detailed training courses that are free online at Relentless Microcement, as well as a number of kits that are designed specifically for DIYers.

Using a professional is the preferred choice of Jason Hyatt, who recommends you also follow best practice when hiring an installer.

"Always be sure to ask which brand they will be using and if they are a qualified installer for that product," advises Jason. "Establish if the product is made of fine quartz or granite as this will have harder-wearing properties compared to those containing marble or ceramic powders.

"Also ask to see examples of their work — in person if possible," he adds, "and don't be swayed by cheaper quotes. They are unlikely to give you the finish you are hoping for."

Timings

If you're wondering at what stage of your build you should install microcement flooring, then this would rather depend on the project you're undertaking. "If you are using it in a new self build or extension, standard procedure would be for it to be applied once the screed had dried and cured and the underfloor heating had been commissioned," explains Jason Hyatt.

In a renovation project it would depend on which room you were installing it in and any other work taking place after it.

Drying times are relatively quick and dependent on the type of microcement used. "But in general, it's a five-day process," says Richie Butt, "with drying times in between each coat. After the final sealer is applied, we suggest it is left 48 hours before light use."

"We would also recommend protecting flooring for a further five days, or until any other work has finished in the area," says Jason Hyatt.

Pros and cons of microcement flooring

If you prefer clean lines and contemporary finishes, you will likely find microcement flooring appealing as the seamless finish is considered one of the main pros of the product. Other positives include:

• Easy to clean and maintain
• Can be colour matched to suit your scheme with added pigmentation
• Is durable and flexible
• Only laid to a depth of 2-3mm reducing the impact on floor levels (as a guide this would be the same depth of tile adhesive)
• Suitable for use with underfloor heating
• Less prone to cracking
• Hard wearing
• Fast drying
• Waterproof

However, if you are unsure about your floor's strength or substrate, this might be the product for you. Negatives include:

• If the surface is not prepped correctly it could lead to the system failing
• Will stain if the right sealant isn't used
• Needs extra care if used in bathrooms or wet rooms where there are joints between walls and floors
• Not generally considered suitable for outdoor use
• This is not generally considered a cheap flooring idea – although DIY kits are available – so it's suitability might come down to budget

The cost of microcement flooring

The total cost of your microcement flooring project will depend on a number of factors says Jason Hyatt.

"Your flooring substrate, size of the floor to be covered, your home's location in the UK and the finish required will all influence the final cost," he says.

Expect to pay around £140 - £160 plus VAT per m2 for a quality product and install. If you are considering a DIY option, kits start from £27.50 per m2 advises Richie Butt.

FAQs

How long does microcement flooring last?

"With the right cleaning and maintenance, you can expect microcement flooring to last around 8-10 years," says Jason Hyatt. "We often find that people are looking to change their floor for aesthetic reasons, rather than it needing replacing."

Be sure to use non-abrasive products and tools for cleaning microcement and a neutral soap-based cleaner. Check with your supplier for any specific advice as you may be advised to seal it again after a few years.

Can I use it anywhere other than floors?

In short, yes. As long as the substrate or surface is stable say the experts, then it can be applied to walls, columns, doors and wardrobes to create a seamless finish in the room of your choice.

Can you add any other decorative effects to it?

Although the seamless finish will appeal to many, there are other decorative effects you can also use. As well as the addition of pigments giving you plenty of options when it comes to being creative with your colour choice – Jason Hyatt notes how he's even installed a bright red microcement floor – there are other options to consider.

"We've had customers add items such as metallic strips," says Jason. "We can also create a tiled effect by cutting joints into the floor and then grouting the joints."

Can you lay other flooring on top of it?

If you decide to change your microcement flooring, you have plenty of options says Jason Hyatt. With sufficient floor height available, you could apply a new layer in a different colour, add tiles, carpet or different types of wood flooring.

Even if you have underfloor heating, it's so thin that it won't prevent heat being transmitted through an additional layer of flooring. (That said, when it comes to underfloor heating with carpet, you will need to check the tog rating of the new carpet to ensure capability.)

Getting your flooring choice right is essential in any new build or renovation project, but with products like microcement, it all starts with the basics of getting the substrate layer right. If you're just embarking on your project and still learning, read our guide to floor screed first to make sure you know where to start.

Stripping wood floors is a cost-effective and practical way to say goodbye to an old unwanted finish. Maybe it’s time for a floor refresh, or maybe you want something completely new to bring out the beauty of your wooden floor.

Different types of wood flooring typically come with different finishes with varnish, wax, paint and stain the most commonly used options. Stripping isn’t as simple as one option suits all, you need to choose the most appropriate method to get the best finish. Here we look at the different methods and which will work best for your floor finish.

Stripping wood floors: The tools you’ll need

Stripping floors can be a messy job, so not only will you need the right tools, but you will also need to make sure to invest in protective gear such as gloves, goggles and a respirator mask.

• Chemical stripper
• Paintbrushes
• Scraper
• Wire wool/Steel scourers
• White spirit
• Bin liners

Try these tools to help strip wood floors

5 steps to strip a wooden floor

Kirk Evans, Technical Manager at Woodpecker Flooring runs through the steps you need to take to strip a wooden floor with a chemical stripper.

1. Prepare the room 

The first step is to clear the area/floor that you are stripping. Begin by removing all furniture, rugs, and decorations from the room. Then protect the surrounding space by shielding any power outlets, vents, and doorways with plastic sheeting to keep dust and fumes contained.

Before applying any chemicals, wear protective gear like gloves, goggles, and a respirator like this 3M Maintenance Free Half Mask from Amazon.

2. Apply chemical stripper 

Select a chemical stripper suitable for your floor’s finish. Gel-based options are often preferred as they adhere well to the surface. Evans recommends Barrettine Peelaway 7 or Barrettine Peelaway 1. For a more cost effective solution he suggests No Nonsense Paint & Varnish Stripper.

Apply using a paint brush or roller, apply the stripper along the wood grain. Ensure an even, thick layer for effective penetration. Then let the stripper sit for the time recommended by the manufacturer, usually 15 to 30 minutes, longer for more stubborn finishes. You’ll know it’s ready when the finish begins to bubble or wrinkle.

3. Remove the finish 

When the stripper has done its job, use a plastic scraper or putty knife to gently lift the softened finish from the floor. For corners or detailed areas, a stiff-bristled brush or steel wool works well. Repeat if necessary, there may be multiple layers and you may need to reapply the stripper and repeat the process until all finishes are removed.

4. Clean the surface 

After stripping, clean the floor with a recommended neutralising agent, like white spirit or a vinegar-water mix, to remove any residue. When done, rinse the surface by wiping down the floor with clean water and a damp cloth to ensure all chemicals are removed. Finally, leave the floor to dry thoroughly.

5. Finishing touches 

When the floor is dry lightly sand the floor with a fine-grit sandpaper to smooth any rough spots and prepare the surface for a new finish. Next vacuum the floor to remove all dust and debris. To finish, inspect the floor and make sure it is clean, dry, and free from chemical residues before applying a new finish.

Common methods for stripping a wood floor

Not all wooden floor finishes will need a chemical stripper to remove the finish. There may be more suitable options depending on the type of finish. Here Evans gives a list of the benefits of the common methods and what floor finishes they best work with.

• Chemical strippers – These are ideal for intricate or detailed floors, especially when dealing with multiple layers. Ensure good ventilation and handle with care. These are typically used on polyurethane, varnish and shellac floor finishes and sometimes on painted wooden floors.
• Sanding – This method commonly uses a drum or orbital sander to remove the finish. It is fast and effective, but can be dusty and may remove a thin layer of the wood. It is a popular choice for stained wooden floors where you want to get back to bare wood.
• Heat gun – Best for small areas or stubborn finishes. It softens the finish for easier scraping but requires careful handling to avoid damaging the wood. This is a popular choice for painted wood floors and isn’t as messy as using a chemical stripper.
• Mineral spirits – This is typically used on waxed wooden floors. Combined with a cloth it helps remove the wax and isn’t as messy as a chemical stripper.

FAQs

Does vinegar strip hardwood floors? 

Yes and no. You can mix household vinegar with cream of tartar and water to create a solution that is acidic, that will help soften/clean a finish. But this method isn’t as effective as a chemical stripper. I suggest that you don’t bother using it as a stripper alternative, especially if you're looking to strip a whole floor.

However, a vinegar and water mix can be used as an homemade floor cleaner for wooden floors. But make sure to test the solution on an out of the way spot to see its reaction.

And if you do use the solution, don’t leave it on the floor for long. Use a damp mop to apply the solution, wring out a mop in clean water to rinse the floor and leave to dry. Don’t leave any standing pools of water on the surface.

If stripping your wooden floor, try your best not to damage it, but if you do check out our repair wood flooring guide. If you’re adding a new finish make sure to check out our staining wood floors and sanding wood floors guides to help you get the best finish.

Varnishing wood floors makes perfect sense if you want to retain the natural beauty of the wood grain for all to see. It adds a clear protective layer that will keep the floor looking good for longer. And you can choose what finish you want to ensure that it matches up with your decor.

Most types of wood flooring are a good choice for varnish, but not all. If yours is (most natural woods are), here you’ll find what you need to do to get it ready for varnishing, what varnish and tools to use, and how to apply for the best finish. 

Varnishing wood floors: Preparation and application

Whether you are tackling a new wooden floor or restoring an old wood floor to its former glory, you've got to do your prep first before applying any varnish. There will be a little more work when tackling an old wooden floor, but not too much I promise. 

How do you prepare floorboards for varnishing? 

Whatever the condition and finish of a floor, the preparation process is similar. Kirk Evans, Technical Manager at Woodpecker Flooring. Explains the general process, “Start by cleaning the floorboards thoroughly, removing any dirt or debris.” Follow this up by, “Sanding the surface with fine-grit sandpaper to smooth out imperfections and remove old finishes.” Finally, “Vacuum the dust, then wipe the boards with a damp cloth. Ensure the wood is dry before applying a primer or stain if desired.”

This method is a good choice for bare wood floors, but if you have waxed, painted, or stained floors you may need to consider stripping before sanding. Note, if you have a stained wooden floor it will be difficult to remove a dark stain and replace it with a lighter stain. You can add more stain to get a darker, richer tone and even a varnish to add a matt, satin, or gloss finish and an extra layer of protection. 

How do you apply varnish to wood floors? 

Adding varnish to a wooden floor is typically a choice between a roller, pad and paintbrush. But which should you use and where? Evans shares that, “A brush is ideal for precision around edges and corners, while a foam roller or pad is great for covering large areas quickly.” 

But, “The choice depends on the floor's size and your comfort level,” he adds. The ideal solution is to, “Combine both tools to ensure a smooth, even finish, with brushes handling detail work and rollers managing broader strokes.

But how do you get started? “Begin by stirring the varnish gently to avoid bubbles," explains Evans. “Use a high-quality brush or foam roller to apply the varnish evenly along the grain of the wood.” But where do you start? “Start from a corner and work your way out, maintaining a wet edge to prevent lap marks. Let each coat dry thoroughly before applying the next.”

What should I use to varnish wooden floors?

This may seem obvious – varnish, but there are different types of finish that work well on wooden floors as Evans explains, “Polyurethane varnish is a popular choice for wooden floors due to its durability and resistance to scratches and water.” 

He adds, “Traditional varnish provides a more natural finish but may require more maintenance.” What should you use? “We recommend using a water-based polyurethane varnish, for an eco-friendly option that dries quickly and offers excellent protection.” 

Try these to get a great varnished wood floor 

FAQs

How long after varnishing can you walk on it? 

Varnish needs to dry and cure before it can be fully appreciated. But there are a few factors that will determine how soon you can walk on it and add furniture and rugs. A key consideration is the varnish base. Water-based varnish typically dries quicker than an oil-based varnish.

But, as a general guideline Evans suggests that you, “Wait at least 24 hours before walking on the floor with socks or soft shoes. For heavier traffic or furniture placement, allow 72 hours to ensure the varnish has fully cured.” He adds that, “Patience ensures a flawless finish that lasts longer.” Make sure to take note. 

Can I put new varnish over old varnish? 

Yes you can. But the key factor is the condition of the current varnish. If the varnish is in good condition it will need a clean to ensure that it's free from dirt, debris and grease before you move on to the next step.

So what is the next step? Evans shares that you need to, “Lightly sand the existing varnish to create a surface that the new varnish can adhere to.” Use a fine sandpaper grade - a 120-180 grit is typically a good choice. He adds, “Clean thoroughly to remove dust and debris before applying the new varnish. This process revitalises your floor without the need for stripping.” 

Varnishing a wooden floor is one option for your home, but you may want to try something different before you add a coat of varnish. Check out our Wood flooring ideas and Best flooring for kitchen guides to get the best from your floor. And, if your looking to get a new wooden floor don’t miss out on reading our How to buy reclaimed wood flooring guide to get a unique and cost effective solution. 

Vinyl flooring repairs are an inevitable part of having vinyl flooring throughout your home. Alongside general wear and tear, accidents can leave gouges and stains and unwanted moisture issues can have an impact.

Whatever type of vinyl flooring you have installed, the same repair principles you’ll find in this article will work across all of them. Scratches are the most common problem, and typically the easiest to fix. But, here we also look at other repairs you might need to apply and reveal what you need and how to make it happen.

Vinyl flooring repairs: How to fix scratches and stains

There are several methods for fixing scratches and stains, depending on what type of scratches or strain you are looking to repair or remove.

Superficial scratches

Light surface scratches are generally caused by general wear and tear such as footwear walking across the floor, furniture being moved and pet claws. These are typically the easiest to deal with and get rid of.

Christoph Wellekoetter, Head of Product Management at Parador suggests that, “For superficial scratches, using a varnish retouching pen is very effective”. You can buy these in sets in various colours to match your vinyl flooring. These are like wooden coloured permanent markers, which you simply draw onto a scratch.

An alternative is to use a vinyl floor polish to help hide scratches and imperfections. Use a kitchen scourer and all-purpose floor cleaner, to get rid of dirt, debris and smooth out any rough edges. Wash down and leave to dry naturally. Finally, apply a laminate floor polish to the surface to give it a shine.

Deeper scratches 

If you have deeper marks in a vinyl floor that can’t be hidden with cleaning and polishing Wellekoetter recommends a, “Premium repair set for any serious damage to a floor's surface.” He adds, “ When applying the care product, always keep to the instructions on the packaging.”

Vinyl floor repair kits will include wood coloured wax sticks, which you need to match as close as possible as the colour of the vinyl floor. These can be rubbed on shallow scratches to fill the scratch. Then blended with a microfibre cloth.

For deeper scratches you need to melt the wax into the scratch or gouge, smooth out with a flat edge and leave to harden. Again you can use a cloth to help blend it when the wax cools down.

Stains and marks 

Getting rid of stains is pretty straightforward on vinyl flooring as Wellekoetter shares, “To remove stains on vinyl flooring, we advise applying a PU cleaner with a cloth to the area being treated and rubbing it dry after a few minutes. If necessary, repeat this process. To finish, wipe the area with a damp cloth.”

Try these to help restore your vinyl floor

Why is my vinyl floor lifting and how do I fix it?

If you have a floating vinyl floor – one that is placed on top of a subfloor but not fixed down – this can lift due to expansion/contraction. This can happen due to temperature changes in a room. How do you deal with it? Make sure that your vinyl flooring has a 5-10mm gap at the edges against the wall.

If you have a fixed floor – one that is glued to a subfloor – the reason could be that moisture has got under the floor to affect the bond. Or, there’s a dip in the subfloor where the glue hasn’t bonded properly. If moisture is the issue you will need to sort the moisture issue and then lay the floor again.

When should I replace rather than repair vinyl flooring?

There will come a time when it makes more sense to replace than try to repair your vinyl floor as Wellekoetter explains, “Vinyl is extremely durable and has a long life cycle of at least 20 years and in many cases, vinyl can be repaired. However, if the decorative layer is damaged in many places or over an extensive area, it may make sense to replace the floor rather than repair it.”

But there may be a more pragmatic reason as Wellekoetter adds, “It makes sense to replace the floor if you simply no longer like the appearance and want to change the look and feel of a space.”

How do you replace vinyl flooring?

This will depend on the type of vinyl flooring i.e. fixed, floating, and where the repair needs to be made. If the floor that needs replacing is in a position i.e. edge of room, you can slide under a scraper like this Titan Tools Stainless Steel Scraper from Amazon, (make sure it's not wider than the plank) and lift the flooring. Clean the area and lay a new plank.

If you need to repair laminate flooring where you can't use a scraper, i.e. middle of floor, get a sharp utility knife and make two cuts around 10-15mm in from the long edge and slide under your scraper to pull it up. Then clean the area and replace the flooring.

How do you fix gaps in vinyl flooring?

“If you choose vinyl with a click connection, you won't have the problem of gaps in the joints, as the planks are pulled tightly together by the click connection,” explains Wellekoetter.

He adds, “With dry back (glued) joints, problems only occur if installation errors have been made or the wrong adhesive has been used. But if you do encounter any issues he suggests that, “When small gaps do occur, they can be filled with hard wax.”

How do you fix a bulge in vinyl flooring?

Bulges in vinyl flooring can be fixed with a few simple methods. One quick method that often works is to place a towel over the bulge and place a hot iron on top and wait until the bulge disappears. Then take off the iron and use a heavy weight to ensure the bulge doesn't reappear.

How to protect your vinyl floor from scratching

Scratches are typically caused by footfall and furniture being dragged across a floor. In areas where there is heavy footfall the introduction of some sort of floor protection is a good idea.

This could be door mats for doorway entrances, strategically placed rugs in a hallway, lounge, bedroom. Or, you could introduce a heavy duty plastic carpet protector like this Extra Large Vinyl Plastic Carpet Protector from Amazon under furniture.

To stop the legs of furniture scratching a vinyl floor surface make sure to add felt pads like these SOFTTOUCH Nail-on Heavy Duty Felt Pads from Amazon.

Maintaining and cleaning a vinyl floor will help make sure that it stays looking its best. But if you decide it’s time for something new check out our Wood flooring ideas and Beautiful stone flooring ideas guides to help you make a choice.

Can you sand engineered wood flooring is a straightforward question that doesn’t have a straightforward answer. Different types of engineered wood flooring need to be treated differently.

It’s not the same as other types of wood flooring. Engineered wood flooring has a thin layer of wood, known as a veneer or wear layer, on the top of a wood core. This doesn’t come in one size, which means different scenarios and results apply to different thicknesses.

Here you can get expert advice on how to sand different sizes of engineered wood flooring, how often it can be sanded and the best tools for the job.

Can you sand engineered wood flooring?

Engineered wood flooring typically consists of solid wood core such as HDF (High Density Fibreboard) that's covered by a solid wood veneer. The core and the veneer differ in thickness which, “impacts its durability, stability, and insulation properties,” explains Ian Tomlinson, managing director at Chaunceys Timber Flooring.

But what sizes and thickness does engineered wood flooring come in?

Ian reveals that, “engineered wood flooring typically comes in thicknesses ranging from 12mm to 20mm, although there are other specifications of floorboard available.”

He adds, “generally, thicker boards offer a more substantial solid wood top layer and additional ply layers in the base, enhancing its durability and strength.”

Different thicknesses work differently says Ian. “For high-traffic areas, 20mm planks are ideal as they can be sanded and refinished multiple times. Thinner boards (12mm-15mm) are more cost-effective but will not offer the same longevity or load bearing strength.”

Which you choose will affect how long the engineered wood floor lasts and how often it can be sanded. “It's important to note that not all engineered floors are created equal," says Ian. "Understanding the materials used in your flooring is crucial to ensure it meets your durability and aesthetic needs.”

He recommends that you, “look for high-quality hardwoods in the top layer for durability, and a base made of high-grade birch plywood. Budget construction methods - often using a thinner top layer and plywood that mixes in layers of softwood, such as pine or poplar - offer a lower quality board that lacks the durability, strength and dimensional stability of an all-birch plywood.”

What sandpaper should I use on an engineered wood floor?

“When restoring or sanding an old finish off of a floor, you will always need to use a series of grit papers,” says Ian Tomlinson. Sandpaper grits sit under different sandpaper grades, for example, a coarse grade sandpaper has a grit of 60 or less, while a fine sandpaper is typically a 120 to 220 grit.

Ian recommends that you, “start at the lowest grit, which is coarse, giving the most aggressive sand. You then work up through the papers until you reach your finish sand grit, most commonly between 80 – 120 grit.

“You can use a floor buffer or orbital sander with a fine grit sandpaper screen (e.g. 120 grit)," he adds, "to remove any minor indentations or raised fibres to get the floor surface smooth and ready for refinishing.”

The most common option according to Ian is to start with a 36 grit paper, which works well on most floor finishes and conditions of timber. But be warned.“There are exceptions to this though, dictated by the condition of your wood flooring and its existing finish," adds Ian.

Finally, an additional word of advice. “It is worth noting that it’s usually a false economy to start with a higher grit paper as it takes a long time to remove the finish and scratches," says Ian, "and it will use a lot of sandpaper.”

Try these when sanding engineered wood flooring

What is the best way to sand an engineered wood floor?

There are a few different ways to sand an engineered floor. For a small floor, you could use a hand sander, belt sander or pole sander. But these options involve more effort, especially the manual approach. Ian Tomlinson suggests that, “the most effective way to achieve an evenly sanded floor is to use a professional quality belt sander and then a floor buffer or orbital sander for the final fine sanding.” Industrial floor sanders can be hired for around £50 a day.

To finish a floor, “use an edge sander along the edges of the room," says Ian, "and a hand-held detail sander or scraper for corners and any areas that can’t be reached with the edge sander.”

FAQ

Can you sand 2mm engineered wood? 

“This depends on the condition of the floor and whether you are fully restoring a very worn floor, or if you are wishing to change the colour,” says Ian Tomlinson. The veneer (aka wear layer) is typically thinner on less expensive engineered wood flooring. Often it will be 1-2mm thick which will affect the sanding process.

“As a rough guide, sanding will take about 0.5mm – 1.5mm of material from the wear layer," explains Ian. "This means that if you have a wear layer consisting of just 2mm, you'll probably only be able to sand and refinish the floor once. If the wood top layer of your engineered wood flooring is less than 3mm, " he adds, "this will limit your ability to sand back your floor and refinish it.”

If you are thinking of choosing new engineered wood flooring then you should consider a thicker wear layer if it fits within your budget. “That's why we only offer boards with a minimum of 3.5mm thick top layer,” explains Ian. “This gives you the ability to sand the floor a few times without any issues.”

“With that said, with proper care and maintenance," says Ian, "sanding your floor should be something that can be avoided.”

Does engineered wood work well in a kitchen? Read our how to choose the best wood flooring for kitchens guide to find out more. And don’t miss our wood flooring ideas and wood flooring cost guides.

There's nothing worse than admiring a beautiful wooden floor, only to suddenly hear it squeak as it’s walked across. But learn how to stop wooden floors creaking and you’ll hopefully never have to hear that irritating, unwanted sound again.

But how do you stop it creaking? Different types of wooden flooring typically need different solutions to solve the problem. Here our expert reveals the secrets to keep fixed floors, floating floors and bonded floors quiet.

Why does my wooden floor creak?

Creaking floors are annoying, inconvenient and usually a sign that something is amiss with your wooden floor. But what? There’s a host of reasons that your wooden floor could be creaking, but as Ian Tomlinson, MD at Chaunceys Timber Flooring explains, “Floorboards creak due to movement and may squeak or creak when the boards rub against one another, or commonly on a physical object.”

He suggests that, “The most common example in a historic floor would be the boards flexing up and down and the nail is either not seated correctly in the joist or rubbing up and down the board, whereas in a new floor it is more likely that the planks are rubbing against each other.”

Different types of wood flooring ideas often have different reasons for creaking. For example, “A properly installed engineered wood flooring shouldn't creak when you walk on it,” shares Tomlinson. “But if it does it suggests a lack of contact between the floor and sub deck, this could mean the sub deck wasn’t flat and level or an issue with the fixing method has left a gap between the two layers.”

He continues, “Fully bonded engineered wood flooring should not come loose, unless there is an issue with moisture, the adhesives or the subfloor condition.” But, if you have a floor that isn’t glued down the reason will be different, "With a nailed down floor you might find an issue where the nail hasn’t gone through the board and seated properly in the joist.”

While loose joists, substandard subfloors and poorly fixed flooring may be the reason for creaky floors there may be a simpler reason such as debris in the cracks between planks. If this is the case these are typically the easiest to fix.

Identity the cause of creaking floors

Identifying why wooden floors are creaking goes a long way to choosing the right solution to alleviate the problems. Is it the subfloor? Is it the joists? Tomlinson shares, “It is important to investigate the root problem i.e. rotten joists or a problem with moisture.”

How do you investigate? “If there is access, the best way to assess and fix the creaking is from the underside of the floor.” Why? “This reduces the risk of damaging the surface of the floor or hitting pipes,” adds Tomlinson.

But gaining access to the underside of your flooring isn’t alway a viable option. So you need to be careful when fixing a creaking floor as Tomlinson explains, “Plumbing or wiring could potentially run through joists or be lagged and running between batons in screeds. This could cause major leaks and plumbing issues or risk of electric shock and wiring issues.”

No-one wants to take up a floor unless they have to, so one simple solution is to place new screws or nails next to the old ones. Or for extra peace of mind you can invest in a pipe and cable detector.

Try these tools to stop creaky wooden floors

Three ways to fix creaky wooden floors

How you fix a wooden floor will depend on what type of flooring you are dealing with. Here Ian Tomlinson offers up solutions for three of the most common problems.

1. Fixed Flooring 

“If your floorboards are nailed down and do not have a tongue and groove, think period properties, then the boards are moving up and down and the creaking will be caused by either movement on the fixing or, between the neighbouring boards.”

Tomlinson suggests, “The simplest method would be to attempt to re-fix the board at the original points, assuming the floorboards are in good condition and not rotten.”

But what should you use? “The board could be refixed using the same traditional fixing or, we find the most secure fixings are flooring screws.” He adds, “The best ones have dual threads and are 2.5 times in length of the board thickness i.e. for a board thickness of 22mm, you should use a minimum screw length of 55mm to help pull the board tight to the subfloor.”

Finally, “Drill a pilot hole in the floorboard to help stop the wood surface splintering, then screw through the material. Depending on the size of the screw head used, these can then be filled with a wood filler, or a traditional wooden pellet could also be used.”

2. Floating floors 

Floating floors are where the flooring is not fixed to the subfloor. Laminate flooring is a common example. “It's likely that the joints of the timber are moving against one another, assuming it is not the subfloor itself creaking. In this case, you need to reduce the friction,” explains Tomlinson.

“One way to reduce the friction is to lubricate the joints,” he adds. “Use a graphite powder or floor lubrication kit over the joints, working it into the joints, flexing it as you go.”

If the cause of the noise is where the floor joins a neighbouring board but is mechanically fixed, you need to stop the movement and reduce the friction. Tomlinson says, “First use graphite powder or floor lubrication, and then refix using flooring screws.”

Finally, he warns, “If the board has become too tight, it might have been or could still be an issue with moisture, which needs to be dealt with at source and the floor boards will need to be lifted, resized and replaced.”

3. Bonded Flooring  

Bonded floors are flooring that is typically glued down to a timber or screed subfloor. “If the floor is creaking and it is glued down to a timber sub deck, you could try the methods for fixed and floating floors.” suggests Tomlinson.

Be warned, if the creaking is coming from movement from the subfloor, no amount of fixing will solve any issues. Unfortunately, you'll need to lift the floor to assess the issue. Hopefully this won't be the case.

However, “If there is no moisture issue, and the floor hasn’t expanded, then the cause is more likely a dip in the screed and the glue between the underside of the floorboard and the sub floor hasn’t achieved its bond, causing the boards to rub one another when they flex.” reveals Tomlinson.

He adds, “There are products on the market that you can inject through the timber to fill the gap. We use BONA R200 hollow spot repair, or a syringe glue applicator.” Why? “This method of glueing is less risky as you do not need to mechanically drive nails or screws deep into the subfloor. So what should you do? “Simply drill to the depth of the floorboard and fill it by following the instructions on the product.”

FAQs

Does talcum powder or WD40 fix squeaky floors? 

Adding talcum powder to gaps in squeaky floors is a commonly suggested solution and while it does work, it's only a temporary solution. There will still be movement in the floor, which will move the talcum powder meaning you’ll need to reapply again.

The same applies to WD40, it will work temporarily, but it's not a permanent solution. And, it will leave a distinct smell in the room.

How do you fix squeaky floorboards without removing carpet? 

Ideally you want to lift up carpet if you want to assess and deal with the creaky floors. But, as a stop gap for the odd squeaky floorboard you can invest in a special carpet repair kit like this Gbtdoface Stop Creak Squeaky Floor Repair Kit from Amazon.

This includes a tool to line up the screw and specialist screws which snap off once they have been screwed in. I suggest you only use a kit like this if you really don’t want to disturb your carpet.

After fixing your creaky wooden floor it could be the perfect time to get it back to looking its best by checking out our How to revive wood floors guide. Alternatively, if you’re thinking of replacing your current wood flooring, find out how much you can expect to pay with our wood flooring costs and costs to lay laminate flooring guides.