The overall kerb appeal of a house is hinged on getting certain elements just right – the windows, cladding, driveway and, of course, the front door.

As the entrance to the rest of house, your front door ideas really matter and part of ensuring yours looks smart and stylish (and stays that way) is hinged on the paint you choose for it.

Your choice of front door paint shouldn't just be based on colours – although obviously this is an important consideration – but also needs to take into account durability and its suitability for withstanding the elements. We asked the experts for their advice on the best options.

Which type of paint is best for a front door?

There are lots of different types of paint, each offering various qualities that make them suitable for a range of applications. In the case of front doors, though, the variety you select needs to be suitable for exterior use as well as hardwearing enough to take the knocks and bangs this element of your home has to endure.

"When choosing an exterior paint, it’s important to find a product that can resist the elements and won’t easily fade or chalk, as well as one that is breathable and allows moisture to escape so it doesn’t blister in damp conditions," explains Benjamin Moore's Helen Shaw.

"Exterior woodwork will also flex with changes in temperature and humidity throughout the year, so choosing a specialist exterior paint for these areas is essential," continues Helen. "Products like Benjamin Moore Element Guard or Aura® Exterior can be mixed into a vast range of colours and resist the toughest of climatic conditions, like wind driven rain, so you can be as creative on the outside of your home as inside."

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Is gloss or matte paint best for a front door?

These days there is a huge range of exterior woodwork paints available – in all kinds of finishes. If you are weighing up oil vs water-based paints, while oil-based gloss paints are undeniably durable, they can be tricky to apply and the high shine finish they give isn't for everyone. That said, dead flat emulsion paint often won't be durable enough for this use.

"We offer four sheen levels for exterior paints with satin, semi-gloss and gloss recommended for front doors as they offer a shinier, more reflective look with greater levels of durability and better stain resistance than lower sheen," says Helen Shaw. "They are also ideal for areas that crave definition where architectural details like bevelling and panelling are customary for a rich, lustrous look."

Stick to water-based eggshell, satin or semi-gloss paints, and double check they are suitable for exterior use.

How can you ensure your paint finish lasts?

Just as when painting a wall, Preparation is key to a good, long-lasting paint finish. At a basic level, what that means is sanding it, ensuring it is free of dust and debris and using a good primer beneath your chosen paint. However, there are other factors to take into account if you don't want to find yourself repainting the door a few months down the line.

"When it comes to decorating your door, we would not recommend painting in the winter months, as painting in cold conditions can present problems," advises Sara D’Souza, content strategist and creator at Frenchic Paint. "Cold temperatures can slow down the drying and curing process of paint which can lead to a variety of problems which can affect long term durability of the surface as well as white 'bloom' appearing, which is a clouding of the paint.

"We recommend waiting until the warmer months to repaint your front door and make sure the temperature is above 10°C during application and the initial curing period of 48 hours (don’t forget that even in spring temperatures can drop at night!)."

What paint colours are best for front doors?

Obviously you will want to choose a colour you love for your front door colour, but certain shades can work better than others when it comes to boosting kerb appeal. Your house style should play a big part in the colour you choose, but it doesn't hurt to brush up on the current trends either – you might just be inspired to try something a little different.

"When choosing your door colour, think about how it will respond to your brick, stone or render," advises Patrick O’Donnell, brand ambassador at Farrow & Ball. "Sampling is really important before you invest in your top coat colour. We are loving ox blood reds such as Deep Reddish Brown in Full Gloss against red brick, and Inchyra Blue in Exterior Eggshell looks beautiful against most stonework.”

"There has been a significant increase in the popularity of bold and bright colours such as yellow and blue rather than the more traditional black or white," picks up Helen Shaw. "Consider drawing on the natural environment and choosing tones which mimic the setting, such as sky blue or forest green, as this not only adds familiarity and comfort to the home but complements nature rather than distract from it.”

And, finally, Patrick O'Donnell has a useful trick for really making your front door stand out.

“Quite often front doors will have a thin wooden frame around them and most people leave this white – don’t! Painting the frame in the same colour as your door will help give a greater sense of scale and proportion."

FAQs

Can you paint a front door in hot weather?

I speak from experience here when I say that it is not a good idea to paint any exterior woodwork in extreme heat. Last summer, I picked one of the hottest days of the year to repaint our front door – bad idea.

Avoid painting your door when the temperature is above 30°C if you want to stop paint peeling as it will cause the paint to dry too quickly, potentially leading to blistering and flaking.

What colours should you avoid painting a front door?

While some colours are universally popular for front doors, there are others that, according to the experts, you should steer clear of.

"Given it’s one of the highest traffic areas of the house, white is probably best avoided, as it will show up dirt and grime so easily," points out Sara D’Souza. "Although, if you do want a monochromatic look, greys are always popular for front doors. The deep mid-grey of Greyhound by Frenchic is particularly popular for front door transformations. Then you can bring a bright white on the door frame for an eye-catching contrast."

At the same time as addressing your front door be sure to look into window colours – ideally the two need to be chosen at the same time to ensure they sit well together.

Congratulations on your shiny, new Ring doorbell… and commiserations on now having to install it.

Over 1 in 5 Brits now have a video doorbell at home, but the devices are still relatively new to most households. Not many of us will have installed more than one in our lifetimes.

This guide will take you through the process of installing a Ring doorbell, with expert tips to help you get the best out of your new home security system. Most of the steps are simple, but there are some considerations and potential errors to be aware of before you start the set-up.

Installing a wired Ring video doorbell requires expertise in working with household electricity. Wiring in should not be attempted by DIYers who are not properly trained in electrical work.

Powering your Ring doorbell: wired vs. battery

There are two ways to power a Ring doorbell: via a wired connection, or using a rechargeable battery. Different models from the brand’s range are designed specifically for one power source or the other.

With wired Ring doorbells, the doorbell is hardwired to a low-voltage doorbell transformer, which takes power from your mains electricity supply and feeds it to the doorbell continuously.

A battery-powered Ring doorbell has a removable, rechargeable lithium-ion battery, which must be taken out and recharged when it gets close to depletion. You’ll be able to see on the Ring app when the charge level is low.

“Battery powered Ring doorbells are far easier to install for most households – you simply mount the bracket, charge the battery, and connect this to your Wi-Fi through a mobile phone app,” says Hayley Brown, a smart home expert at AO.com.

“Wired models are much fiddlier, particularly if your home doesn’t already have a doorbell circuit. If you’re not confident with electrics, then a battery powered model is the lower-stress option.”

The major benefit to a wired installation is that the doorbell should always be powered, with no need for occasional charging. Even if you go travelling for several weeks, the doorbell should keep working and capturing footage. Wired Ring doorbells are also slimmer and arguably better-looking.

“A wired installation is the more reliable option in the long run because you don’t have to worry about recharging batteries or losing power at the wrong moment,” says Clive Holland, a property expert and Fix Radio presenter.

“Once it’s fitted, it’s a set-it-and-forget-it job, which appeals to many homeowners.”

How to install a Ring video doorbell: Step-by-step

1. Doorbell placement

Placing your Ring doorbell in the ideal spot will ensure it’s easy for visitors to use and able to capture the footage you need.

If you’re going to use the doorbell with a wired electricity supply, you’ll need to choose a spot where wiring can be conveniently connected to the device through the wall. You might already have this wiring in place from a previously installed doorbell.

Otherwise, positioning should be guided by getting the right viewpoint for the doorbell’s camera.

“Ring recommends placing your device around 1.2 metres from the ground – not at eye level,” says Brown.

“By doing this, you’ll capture faces as well as packages left at the doorstep, making both visits and deliveries handy for you to check on using your phone.”

If you need to position your doorbell at an angle to get the required viewpoint, you’ll be able to do this using the wedge mounts provided with your Ring doorbell.

“Try to tilt the camera slightly downwards or sideways to avoid pointing straight at a busy street,” Brown advises.

“Also consider your Wi-Fi and be sure to test the signal strength at the front door before you install your doorbell. If the signal is weak then perhaps consider getting a Wi-Fi extender or Ring’s very own Chime Pro, which serves this purpose as well as acting as a door chime.”

Turn the doorbell on and check its viewpoint using the Ring app before settling on a final position.

2. Mounting the doorbell

For installation of a wired Ring doorbell, this step should be carried out by a qualified electrician. Mains electricity supply to the affected area should be turned off at the consumer unit before drilling.

All Ring doorbells come with a mounting kit and specific instructions on how this should be installed by the door to your home. This might include a choice of mounts, including a wedge mount or corner mount.

Mark holes on the building where the mount will be screwed into place, then drill these to the specified width. If you’re drilling into a hard material such as brick or stone, you’ll need to use a hammer drill with a masonry drill bit, and then insert the supplied wall plugs (also known as anchors) into the drilled-out holes. With softer materials such as wood, you can simply drill the holes using an ordinary drill bit.

You can now screw your mount into place using a screwdriver and the supplied screws. The doorbell should slot into it securely.

3. Electrical setup

For installation of a wired Ring doorbell, this step should be carried out by a qualified electrician. Mains electricity supply to the affected area should be turned off at the consumer unit before drilling.

If you’re installing a battery Ring doorbell, electrical setup should be straightforward. Just make sure the device’s battery is charged sufficiently before slotting it onto the mount.

Meanwhile, wired installation is an expert job.

“While some confident DIYers might be tempted to tackle a wired installation themselves, I always recommend bringing in a professional,” says Holland.

“Working with electrics carries risks, and a qualified installer can get the job done quickly, safely, and to a high standard. Most local electricians or even smart home specialists will be familiar with fitting video doorbells, and many can be booked at short notice.”

4. Configuration

With your doorbell fully installed, you can move onto configuring the device via the Ring app, which you’ll use to control and manage the device on your smartphone or tablet.

Your Ring doorbell’s specific set of features and capabilities will vary depending on the model, and also whether you pay for a subscription to Ring Home, which has three subscription tiers giving access to different advanced features such as video playback, doorbell calls and A.I.-assisted video search.

In any case, you can configure settings such as motion zones (areas of the camera’s viewpoint that do not trigger alerts or recording, such as a busy road), a connected chime that will sound inside the home when someone presses the doorbell, and shared users for the device.

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Does setup vary between Ring doorbell models?

Broadly speaking, setting up one Ring doorbell model is similar to setting up another. You’ll always need to follow the positioning, mounting, power setup and configuration processes outlined above. (Of course, there are different electrical requirements for battery-powered and wired models.)

With that said, Ring doorbell models do sometimes have slight differences in their setup processes. For instance, some models have additional wedge or corner mounts to choose between. Read the instruction manual for your chosen model to ensure you’re following the correct steps:

• Battery Video Doorbell Pro instructions
• Battery Video Doorbell Plus instructions
• Battery Video Doorbell instructions
• Door View Cam instructions
• Wired Video Doorbell Pro instructions
• Video Doorbell Wired instructions
• Video Doorbell Elite instructions

FAQs

Which Ring doorbell is the easiest to install?

Brown advises that the battery powered models in the Ring video doorbell range are the easiest choice for DIY setup.

“They’re far easier to install and can simply be recharged indoors every couple of months,” she says.

“While wired Ring doorbells do not need to be recharged, the faff of installation can be an obstacle. You’d be far better off getting a battery Ring doorbell for the best balance of convenience and flexibility.”

Holland agrees that wired Ring doorbells are more difficult to install – although they can be more convenient in the longer term.

“It takes more time, tools, and confidence to get the wiring right, and not everyone wants the hassle,” he says.

“Battery-powered units, on the other hand, are much simpler to fit, and you can usually get them up and running in under an hour.”

Who can professionally install a Ring video doorbell?

Installing a wired video doorbell is outside of many DIYers’ comfort zone, due to the wiring involved. If you lack the necessary training in electrical work, you should get the job done by a professional electrician.

“You can use one of Ring’s own approved installers who often partner with local trusted trades, or look for an electrician registered with NICEIC or NAPIT. These accreditations ensure they’re qualified to fit your Ring doorbell,” says Brown.

“Take into account customer reviews to make sure others have had good experiences with your chosen sparky,” she adds.

If you want to install a Ring battery doorbell but you’re not confident with the mounting process or setup, then a local handyman should be more than capable of doing the job. Alternatively, you could ask a DIY-confident friend to do it for you.

What are some common mistakes to avoid when installing a Ring doorbell?

“A key mistake is poor positioning – too high, too low, or pointing at the wrong angle – which can mean you don’t get the footage you actually need,” says Holland.

“Another common one is not checking the Wi-Fi signal before fitting, leading to connection dropouts and frustration.

“With wired installations, you come across people attempting to connect without properly shutting off the power, which is a real safety hazard,” he adds.

Installing a Ring video doorbell is one step towards creating a sophisticated smart home setup. For further inspiration, see our guides to smart lighting, smart locks and home security system costs.

Pointing is the process of creating the mortar joints between bricks in a piece of brickwork. When old mortar is partially removed and replaced, this is called repointing.

If you’ve looked closely at more than a few brick walls, you’ll know that pointing can look quite different from one structure to the next. Not only are there variations in the colour of mortar, its condition and the quality of pointing – the finish of the pointing can also take various forms. These different profiles are known as ‘pointing styles’.

Each pointing style has its own history, look and structural properties. We spoke to expert bricklayers to learn about six of the most notable styles, from flush and tuck to weather struck.

Read on for their insight, plus guidance on how to choose the right pointing style for repointing your property.

6 brickwork pointing styles to consider

Many styles of pointing have been used in brickwork through the centuries. We’ve picked out six of the most popular, significant and interesting types – ranging from the most common pointing styles today to a few lesser-known styles that may be of interest if you’re renovating a historic property.

Third-generation bricklayer, Marcus Clark of Heritage Brickwork Restoration, will talk us through each of the pointing styles throughout this section.

Don’t skip the FAQs at the end of the article, where Charlie Hill of Hill House Brickwork offers his guidance on which pointing styles are best for historic and contemporary properties – or for a trainee bricklayer.

1. Flush pointing

Pros: relatively easy; suits some contemporary properties

Cons: can overshadow the bricks

Flush pointing is currently one of the most popular styles of pointing, commonly used in new builds where efficient work and a contemporary look are desired. The mortar comes neatly to the edges of each brick, so that the faces of the bricks and the mortar-filled joint form a flat, ‘flush’ surface.

According to Clark, this pointing style has got to be done just right – if at all.

“You're bringing the mortar just that little bit further out than structurally necessary, which can make it stand out more than the brickwork does,” he says.

“If you can imagine the brick being laid and the mortar being cut off with the trowel and left as it is, that is a true flush finish.”

While Clark’s definition of flush pointing is correct, in practice, some bricklayers create a flush joint where the mortar is actually slightly recessed from the brick faces, which tends to give the bricks themselves more visual prominence.

If you’re getting your property repointed flush, it’d be a good idea to ask the bricklayer about their specific approach so that you can ensure it matches your intention.

2. Recessed pointing

Pros: pleasing shadow effect; emphasises high-quality bricks in internal brickwork

Cons: reveals imperfections in bricks; lower weather resistance

In recessed pointing (also known as ‘raked pointing’), the front edge of the mortar is even and vertical, as is also true of flush pointing. It differs in that some of the mortar is raked out to a uniform depth, so that it is set back from the faces of the bricks.

“It’s not actually a style that you see very much on site anymore, but was fashionable from around the late 1970s to the mid 80s,” says Clark.

“Nowadays it’s not always considered sufficient for an external building finish because there is more chance of water penetrating the brickwork, but you can still use it on internal brickwork such as corridors.”

Recessed or raked pointing is often used to highlight the form and textures of bricks.

“It gives you hard edges and definition, which looks nice if you’ve got a very uniform brick that allows for perfect spacing,” says Clark.

“But for the right balance between weather protection and aesthetics, I would usually aim for somewhere between a flush joint and a raked joint, using a heritage mortar with aggregate.”

3. Weather struck pointing

Pros: moisture-resistant; heritage finish

Cons: difficult and expensive

Weather struck pointing was widely used in Victorian structures, and remains prized for its elegant finish and protectiveness against severe weather.

The mortar slopes from top to bottom, so it is significantly recessed at the top of the joint and almost meets the arris (outer edge) of the brick below. This profile encourages water to run down the mortar and off the wall, rather than remaining in the joints.

“You should see an angle and a suggestion of protrusion at the bottom of the joint – but without the mortar actually protruding,” Clark explains.

“By staying just behind the top and bottom edges of the brick, you’ll always be defining all of the brick and can apply your finish within that parameter.”

Weather struck finishes are created using specialised pointing tools such as a Frenchman knife.

4. Tuck pointing

Pros: beautiful trompe-l'œil effect

Cons: rarely practised and highly expensive

Tuck pointing involves applying two different colours of mortar. The larger base layer matches the colour of the bricks, while a thinner but more prominent layer adds a contrast colour within scribed lines at the front of the joint.

“It’s what’s known as a trompe-l'œil, which is French for a trick of the eye,” says Clark.

“When you look at the top, you’ve got no more than a 5mm ribbon joint on the brickwork. It's supposed to look like rubbed and gauged brickwork, which is a highly specialist finish mostly seen on old bank buildings and affluent properties.”

“During the First World War, the country lost so many men that the art of gauged brickwork almost died out completely.”

Homeowners seeking the rubbed and gauged look will likely find that tuck pointing is the nearest achievable alternative.

“For a red brick wall, the joints are raked out after it’s been built, and the joint is then filled with a red mortar to match the bricks, and that is called your stopping mortar,” says Clark.

“You would score a line along the dead centre of the joints (both horizontal and vertical), use a special tuck pointing tool to apply your white ribbon mortar, and then go back over it with a Frenchman knife to cut either side of that line that you’ve just applied.

“When you stand back and look, you’ve completely blinded out wherever the edges of the brick were, because that thin white line looks like the full mortar joint. It's probably the slowest and most difficult pointing style.”

5. Concave pointing

Pros: easy, quick and cost-effective

Cons: although widely used, it’s not considered a fine finish

Concave pointing is a simple style that’s commonly used on new builds, where the mortar curves inwards from the edges of the bricks.

“We call it ‘the bucket handle finish’, and it was created just because it’s much faster to do than any of the other styles of pointing we’ve discussed,” says Clark.

“You go over the mortar with a metal tool, and as long as you get the timing right and there’s enough water still left in the mortar, you end up with a completely slick, smooth finish.

“It’s like when you're at the beach playing with wet sand and you score a line: you get that really fine finish on it because of the water content.”

6. V-joint pointing

Pros: used to preserve the heritage of very old (e.g. Tudor) buildings; minimises the perceived width of large joints

Cons: rarely practised and highly expensive

Also known as ‘double struck’ or ‘bird’s beak’, v-joint pointing is a traditional style of pointing seen mostly in historic buildings. The mortar has a v-shaped profile, coming to its highest point along the centre of the joint.

“Bird’s beak was one of the very first actual finishes that was created for brickwork,” Clark explains.

“It dates back to the Tudor period, when brick-making technology was in its absolute infancy and the bricks were very irregular, so walls were built using a much much wider bed joint.

“The pointing style almost halves the joint size you see, because you’ve applied two strikes to the joint that lessen its impact on the eye. You could fill quite a large void of mortar and it would still look half-decent.”

Clark is among a minority of working bricklayers who have repointed walls in the v-joint style.

“I’ve done it mostly on redstone walling with very irregular material, where you can’t flow from one end to another and you’ve got to try and find some way of finishing it.”

An original example of v-joint pointing can be seen at Hampton Court Palace.

Learning how to point? Here’s where to start

FAQs on pointing styles

Which pointing style is most commonly used in modern properties?

According to Charlie Hill of Hill House Brickwork, flush pointing with a very slight recess is considered ideal for modern properties.

“It’s achieved by filling the mortar joints flush with the brick and then shallow raking it out (2mm deep),” he explains.

“This highlights the shape of the brick whilst giving it a sleek and contemporary look.”

Which pointing styles are most commonly used for repointing historic properties?

“Two of the most common pointing styles seen in historical properties are ‘weathered’ and ‘weather struck’,” says Hill.

“Weathered pointing involves using a pointing trowel to angle the mortar joint so it slopes forward. Weather-struck pointing follows the same process however requires an additional ‘striking’ motion with the pointing trowel, to trim the bottom edge for a more defined finish.”

Do traditional pointing styles require an expert bricklayer?

“Yes, homeowners should seek a professional to achieve advanced traditional pointing styles such as weather-struck,” says Hill.

“Weather-struck pointing is very time-consuming and the technique can take a while to master. You’ll find some bricklayers will avoid this style as they find it challenging.

“Each pointing style requires a particular tool to achieve the desired finish. For example, to achieve styles such as concave (also known as ‘half-round’) you will need a jointing iron. I carry a variety of different pointing tools in my collection, which are a mix of types and sizes,” he adds.

Which are the easiest and most difficult common pointing styles to master?

According to Hill, weather-struck is by far the most time consuming and expensive style in common use.

“It can take twice as long as the half-round technique but can make a massive difference to the appearance of a wall or house,” he says.

“The easiest pointing style for trainees to master would be concave, as the shape of the jointing iron does most of the hard work. Beginners need to make sure that the ratio of sand and cement stays consistent throughout, or the colour from mix to mix will be off and the mortar will dry patchy. Also, make sure that the existing mortar joint is raked out to a sufficient depth.”

Repointing is one of many steps you can take to improve the condition of your property's brickwork. For further guidance, see our articles on removing paint from brick and weep vent installation.

The Pivot House is a rare example of a Paragraph 84 home – one of the few in the country to meet the stringent planning requirements for exceptional architecture in rural settings.

Designed by Studio Bark, the five-bedroom self build, is an innovative off-grid dwelling, blending sustainable technologies with biophilic design principles.

What makes Pivot House truly distinctive is its gabion-walled exterior, an architectural statement that merges modern construction with traditional materials, allowing the home to settle seamlessly into its natural surroundings.

A house rooted in nature: The gabion wall and charred timber exterior

The Pivot House’s exterior is a sculptural fusion of gabion walls, charred timber cladding, and undulating green roofs, creating a façade that feels both modern and organic.

The gabion walls, constructed using locally quarried flint, act as a natural buffer between the house and its landscape. The varying sizes of flints within the wire mesh not only create an eye-catching textural finish but also serve as an ecological feature, providing shelter for insects and small wildlife.

Complementing the flintwork is the use of charred timber cladding, which enhances the home’s weather resistance while lending a dramatic contrast to the paler stone. This Shou Sugi Ban technique, a traditional Japanese method of charring wood, increases the material’s durability and creates a striking visual interplay with the gabion walls.

Above, the home’s monopitched sedum roofs echo the gentle rise and fall of the surrounding landscape, further embedding the building into its environment. The overall effect is a home that feels like an extension of the land itself, blurring the boundaries between architecture and nature.

Why ‘Pivot House’? The story behind the name

The name Pivot House is a direct reference to its bio-inspired structure and the way it interacts with its setting.

The home is anchored by a central courtyard, with living spaces radiating outward in a parabolic arrangement – a design directly influenced by the random yet structured growth of trees.

At the heart of the design is a single existing tree, around which the architectural plan pivots, mirroring the natural branching of woodland canopies. This courtyard spine floods the interiors with light while serving as a focal point that connects the home’s various wings.

Pivot House is not just a name – it reflects a fundamental design principle that ties the building to its environment, reinforcing its status as a truly site-responsive home.

A sustainable vision: Inside the off-grid home

While Pivot House’s exterior is a striking architectural statement, its off-grid performance is just as impressive. The home was designed to be self-sufficient, with a range of sustainable energy systems in place:

• EPC ‘A’ rating thanks to its highly insulated timber-framed construction
• Triple-glazed windows and doors for superior energy efficiency
• Biomass boiler and underfloor heating to reduce reliance on fossil fuels
• Solar panels with battery storage mounted on the garage roof, powering the entire home
• Private borehole water supply and an on-site drainage system for full water self-sufficiency

Inside, the home embraces a restrained material palette of smooth plaster, timber and stone, creating a calm, contemporary aesthetic. Expansive floor-to-ceiling glazing ensures a seamless flow between indoor and outdoor spaces, reinforcing the home’s connection to nature.

With its sustainable ethos, innovative design, and Paragraph 84 status, Pivot House is a rare and exceptional example of rural contemporary architecture mixed with an eco house, proving that low-impact living and high design can go hand in hand.

The self build is for sale on The Modern House for £1.4 million.

Painting exterior window sills well can transform the outside of your house and help ensure your home makes the best first impression. The good news is it’s a quick and relatively easy painting project that any keen DIYer can tackle over a weekend.

In this easy to follow 4 step guide we tell how to get your prep right, choose the right paint and apply it to your window sill.

And if you're keen to say goodbye to flaking paint, unflattering colours and introduce a new contemporary hue that you can match up with your front door, why not think about painting windows at the same time to create a smart, harmonious colour scheme that will add kerb appeal. 

Painting exterior window sills - what you'll need

As with any DIY job, having the right tools to hand is part of the trick to getting the job done well. Here's what you'll need:

• Stiff brush
• Bowl of water and washing up liquid solution
• Kitchen scourer
• Fungicidal wash (if required)
• Dry, clean towel
• Paint stripper
• Sander/sandpaper
• Filler
• Filling knife
• Painter's caulk
• Paintbrushes
• Primer (depending on choice of paint)
• Masonry paint

Try these items for painting exterior window sills

Step one: Sweep and clean sills

Exterior windows sills collect dirt and debris so the first thing you need to do is give them a good brush down. Get a stiff hand brush and get rid of as much dirt and debris as possible. Now get a bucket of warm water, add a squirt of washing up liquid and wash down the sill with a kitchen scourer. 

Clean and wash down the surrounding window frame, if needed. This will stop first and debris falling onto the fresh paint later on. Wipe dry with a clean cloth or towel.  

Step two: Prep the window sill

Start by using a paint scraper to remove as much loose or flaking paint as possible. Use a wire brush to help get rid of old paint if needed. Sills will typically have caulking or a sealant between the window frame and the sill. 

It should be easy to remove old caulk with a scraper, but if proving difficult to get rid of, use a sharp Stanley knife to cut. Now brush away dirt, debris and old paint from the sill and surrounding area and clear away.

If stripping the sill back to bare concrete use a paint stripper to help remove the old paint. If there is any algae or fungi ingrained in the sill, use a suitable fungicidal wash to wipe away and leave to dry. 

Step three: Fill and sand sill

When refreshing a window sill prior to painting, it often needs filling to give it a smooth finish. Spread a suitable exterior filler with a filling knife and smooth out. Spray with water to help get a smooth finish. Leave the filler to dry and then set to with sanding the surface.  A medium grade – 120 grit should do the job – and rub down until the sill is smooth. 

Use a hand sander or a detail sander like this DOVAMAN Detail Sander from Amazon to speed up the process.  

Step four: Prime and paint sill

Before you start painting exterior window sills, lay down dust sheets to stop drips and use painters tape on windows and brickwork if not confident in your cutting in skills. If adding new caulk, use painters caulk like this Soudal Decorator Caulk from Amazon and add before painting. 

If you have stripped your window sill back to bare concrete/masonry you will need to add a primer to help seal the sill ready for the top coat. A lot of exterior/masonry paints are self-priming so you can avoid adding a primer, but typically you will have to add an extra coat or two. Find out more about the different types of paint before you start so that you are confident in purchasing the right product.

Start with a 2-3 inch brush and cut in along the edges to create a border and then fill in the rest of the unpainted areas. Apply a thin coat and leave to dry as recommended. 

Once dry make sure the sill is free of any dust, dirt, debris and add a second coat. Remove the tape and admire your newly painted sill. 

Do not put any flower boxes or similar on the sill until the paint is fully dry, typically around 24-48 hours.

Painting exterior window sills FAQs

What kind of paint should I use for painting exterior window sills? 

You need to use a paint formulated for the outdoors for painting exterior window sills, as they are exposed to a host of different conditions. Sandtex specialise in exterior masonry paints and offer a range of options in different finishes and different colours. 

Dulux Weathershield like this Dulux Weathershield Smooth Masonry Paint from Amazon is another popular choice for house exteriors and is available in a host of colours. Another good option is Zinsser AllCoat Exterior paint (available from Amazon) which is available in Gloss and Satin and is recoatable in one hour. 

Should I use gloss, satin or matt for painting exterior window sills? 

Which finish you choose for painting exterior window sills is very much personal taste. Matt is a popular option for most homes, while satin and gloss finishes both offer a sharp finish, but they reflect more light meaning they show up any imperfections. However, if you have a super smooth finish on your sill a gloss finish will stand out, is easy to wipe clean and looks good.

How do I paint uPVC window sills? 

The process of painting uPVC windows is very similar to painting concrete/masonry windows sill. You will need to clean and wash down the sill. 

Sugar soap is a cleaner and degreaser and will do a good job of making sure that a uPVC window sill is free of any dirt, debris and grease. 

Then you will need to rub down the sill with a fine sandpaper - 180 grit will be ideal for uPVC - to give better adhesion for the paint. To finish you will need a paint that works well on uPVC and is self priming such as Zinsser AllCoat Exterior paint.

When sprucing up your exterior windows sills it's a good time to think about tackling other outside paint projects. Why not think about painting a front door to add extra kerb appeal. Make sure to choose the best paint brushes and the best paint rollers to get the job done properly.  

The best exterior wood paints are specially formulated to not only make your doors, windows, shed, fences and decking look good but also offer good all-round weather protection. 

Exterior wood will be exposed to a host of weather conditions such as sun, rain, wind, cold and maybe even snow. So a paint that helps protect the natural beauty and strength of wood is essential for a good finish. 

But alongside the substance you also want style, so make sure to choose a colour that complements the natural nature of your garden or one that matches the outside of your home to get a good look. 

Check out this collection of exterior wood paints that will help your doors, windows, decks, sheds, fences and furniture look good for longer.

(MORE: How to Paint a Room)

Best Exterior Wood Paints

If you have exterior wooden doors and windows and need a paint that will keep them looking good for years then this weatherproof offering from Ronseal could be just what you are looking for. 

Ideal for bare or previously painted wood, this long-lasting paint is available in a gloss or satin finish, and specially formulated to flex with the movement of wood, making it resistant to cracking, peeling and blistering. If prepped properly you should get a good 10 years of use before you have to paint again. 

It is dry and rainproof in an hour, making it perfect for painting in changeable weather conditions. You will need two coats for previously painted wood or three coats for bare wood - no primer needed.

Buy the Ronseal 10-Year Weatherproof Exterior Wood Paint

Fancy giving your garden shed or fence a neutral or vibrant colour that blends or complement its natural surroundings, looks good and offers plenty of protection for your wood? 

The Cuprinol Garden Shades range comes in over 30+ ready mixed colours, but you can get more than double the colour choice when using its colour mixing options. 

It’s easy to apply with a brush or perfectly suitable to spray with. Two coats will give a strong matt weatherproof finish that should last for at least five years and bring out the natural texture of the wood grain. 

It should be dry and ready to recoat in around an hour, so you can add a third coat in no time for a deeper richer finish. Note that if applying to rough sawn wood you will only get around half the coverage of planed wood. 

Buy the Cuprinol Garden Shades Exterior Woodcare

Do you want to give your garden furniture a new lease of life and a bright new look that will keep it looking good for years to come? Touch dry in an hour and ready to recoat in four, this garden paint is easy and quick to apply. 

You can choose from eight matt soft-touch colours and paint directly onto bare or previously painted wood.  

Add two coats to get a contemporary durable chalky matt finish that will offer protection from the rain. It's also resistant to mould and algae, which will help your outdoor furniture stay looking good for longer.

It’s easy to wipe clean - or scrub for more stubborn stains - if and when needed. 

Buy the Rust-Oleum Chalky Finish Garden Furniture Paint

Long-lasting weatherproof protection is exactly what you want when you are painting your exterior wooden windows and doors. And this durable satin finish from Dulux is definitely a paint to put on your wish list.

Dulux Weathershield Quick Dry Exterior Satin fulfils all the criteria and more. It is easy to apply with a brush, or even a small roller, and it provides excellent coverage. It's mould resistant too - minimising staining - and is crack resistant to help keep your doors and windows looking good for longer. 

One small downside is that it says quick-drying on the tin but it takes around six hours before it’s fully dry.

Buy the Dulux Weather Shield Quick Dry Satin Paint

Specially formulated for the rough sawn finish of sheds and fences, this offering from Cuprinol is less of a paint and more of a stain. It is easy to apply with a brush - not a roller - thanks to its non-drip formula and is showerproof within an hour. 

Once fully dry - which takes around 2-4 hours - its wax-enriched finish will help repel water, giving your outdoor timber a longer life. You will need at least two coats to fully weatherproof your shed or fence - coverage is limited - and bring out the colour of which there are nine available. 

But be warned - you will need to apply a second coat within two days to stop the additional coat from being repelled - just like the rain. If you leave it for longer you will need to prepare the surface before painting. 

Buy the Cuprinol 5-Year Ducksback Matt Shed & Fence Treatment

Decking by its very nature will get a lot of use and will start to look tired and worn as time goes by. A good decking paint will bring it back to life offer whilst providing long-lasting, all-weather protection at the same time. And this is exactly what this specialist paint from Ronseal will do. 

Prepare your deck - softwood or hardwood - as described by the manufacturer and the paint will cover grey wood comprehensively, It will fill any small cracks and make sure that splinters are stuck down and will be dry within a couple of hours. 

You can brush on - or use a decking pad - another coat in around four hours to get a tough feet-friendly finish. Just make sure you leave it for 48 hours for it to fully dry.   

Buy the Ronseal Ultimate Decking Paint

How to Choose the Best Exterior Wood Paint 

If you are looking for exterior wood paint the first consideration is what are you looking to paint. This will determine what type of paint you will need. If you are painting your wooden front door and windows you will need a different type of paint than if you were painting garden furniture, decking, shed and fences.

If you are looking to paint your front door and exterior wooden windows you want a tough durable finish that looks much like the finish you get indoors. Look for paint with a satin or gloss finish and one that is crack and stain-resistant. This will make it easy to clean and stay looking good for longer. 

If you are looking to paint garden furniture you want to choose a specialist paint that can withstand a lot of traffic and can be scrubbed clean. The same principle applies when looking for decking or shed paint. Pick a specialist paint that is tough, durable, looks goods and offers great all-round weather protection. 

Alternatively, you can use a stain for decking, sheds and fences. Stain differs from paint in that it doesn’t sit on top of the wood - like paint - but it soaks into the wood. It colours the wood but still offers good weather protection and helps display the natural grain of the wood. Once again, pick a specialist product and make sure that it offers strong protection and of course a colour that you like. 

Whatever paint/stain you choose make sure that you get enough for two coats to give proper protection to whatever you are painting. 

More Best Buys for Painting Jobs

• Tackle walls and ceilings with the best paint rollers
• Decorate your home with the best paint brushes
• Transform your deck with the best decking paints 
• Speed up your next project with the best paint sprayers

Building brick houses is a long-held tradition in the UK, thanks to the material's wide availability and versatility to suit a broad range of styles and designs. 

While budget and local vernacular often play a large part in choosing the types of brick that will face your home, there are still many considerations to make  — including how they're made, the subtle hues and variations in colour, and the shape and form. Plus, inherent simplicity of bricks often leads to playful creativity in terms of laying patterns and bonds in contemporary and traditional homes alike. 

So, no matter if you're looking to extend a period building in a sympathetic style, or self build using cutting-edge design, we have plenty of ideas to get you inspired for your project

Replicating a Traditional Style in a Brick House

When adding to this 16th-century cottage, attention to detail was key when choosing the bricks to clad the oak frame extension. 

The homeowners wanted the new addition to mirror the old section of the house with the timber frame visible, meaning the bricks were sawn and stick onto blocks fitted between the beams. This job was made more time consuming thanks to the herringbone patterns essential to the overall aesthetics of the extension.

(MORE: Matching Materials for an Extension)

Using Reclaimed Brick for a Contemporary Home

This small, contemporary home was built on a site of old garages using brick-clad timber frame. During the pre-application stage, the planners made it very clear they wanted to see a brick house, given that the site was in a conservation area. However, the homeowners were keen not to use a London stock brick to create something that looked different. 

Eventually, reclaimed bricks, uneven in size and colour, were chosen with a black mortar mix. 

A Contrasting Extension to a Terrace House

It's not uncommon to see contemporary designs incorporate a contrasting extension and that's how Stuart Archer (of Archer and Braun) chose to face his side return addition.  

"There are hundreds of brick types to choose from with many different finishes — smooth, sandy, textured or rough," says Stuart. "In this project we chose an inexpensive engineering brick – Ibstock Atlas – as we were after a smooth and consistent appearance that suits the contemporary style".

(MORE: Modern Brick Design Ideas)

Traditional Laying Patterns in a Brick House

Brick bonds, the patterns the bricks will be laid in, can be a bit of a rabbit hole of information and choices, but doing research to incorporate a more interesting bond will add form and character to a home design.

In this manor-style home, delicate details have been added to the traditional stretcher bond (shown below) of the main elevations. Namely, a herringbone raking bond either side of the porch and a dog's-tooth course marking the first floor. 

Brick Laying Patterns to Create a Textured Extension

Just as traditional styles can be elegantly replicated, cutting-edge brick design can turn a seemingly simple extension into a work of art. 

"Textured brickwork was used in the design of the staggered two-storey extension," says architect Trevor Brown. "At ground floor the engineered black headers of the Flemish bond brickwork cast varying shadows throughout the day while at first floor they are recessed to create a woven surface."

A dark mortar mix further enhances the dynamic design. 

Cladding Timber Frame Homes with Brick Slips

Great for homes build with limited plot size, brick slips are a great way to create a brick look without the need for extra support and space. 

This Passivhaus-certified self build on a tiny garage plot was constructed from structural insulated panels and clad in brick slips to meet planning requirements. The brick and steel façade has been softened with red cedar louvres. 

(MORE: Cheap Bricks)

Painting an Existing Brick House for a New Lease of Life

Often during extension projects the existing house can feel tired and dated by comparison so painting exterior brickwork is a sure-fire way to bring a fresh perspective. 

Masonry paint is available in a wide range of colours and generally comes in smooth (easier to apply in large areas) and textured (to help cover cracks and uneven surfaces). 

Mixing Red Brick and Black Timber Cladding

Modern home designs rarely use one type of cladding and bricks are definitely versatile enough that they can be matched with pretty much any cladding alternative. 

In this contemporary self-build red brick, characteristic of the area, was chosen to pair with the exterior grade black-stained timber cladding. The detailing around the windows was inspired by a nearby pub, meaning that while the house is undoubtedly modern, it suits the surroundings flawlessly. 

Using Reclaimed Brick to Blend with an Existing Home

Respecting the character of this old coach house in Edinburgh was a priority during the conversion project so the crumbling existing wall was repointed where possible, while the new two-storey extension has been clad in reclaimed bricks. 

Tinting is another option for brick houses, in which bricks are stained to change their colour, usually where repairs have been made or to help to unite an extension with the existing main house.

(MORE: Brick Tinting)

Brick and Render for a Manor-style House

In order to achieve a traditional farmhouse appearance, this self build features a characterful exposed oak frame with lime rendered infill panels and a brick-clad ground floor. 

(MORE: House Rendering)

White Brick for a Traditional House

In order to ensure this traditional-style self build fitted within the local vernacular, the exterior takes its cue from nearby barns and has been clad in brickwork painted white to match buildings within the village. 

A Handmade Brick House with a Modern Timber Rear

After having their planning permission application initially rejected, the homeowners of this modern farmhouse were told by the council that as their self-build was to replace a derelict structure, the new design should replicate the original in size and appearance. 

A fairly traditional and unassuming front elevation was essential, but the Border Oak design beautifully showcases the old building's heritage with handmade, red Cheshire bricks. These are softened by locally inspired inky-grey timber windows, fitted with brick arch lintels of a design seen throughout the local area. 

Around the back however (below), the homeowners were allowed a little more freedom and spiced up their design with some playful blue weatherboarding. 

Brick tinting is by no means a new phenomenon, but you may not be aware that it's an option open to you to help remedy brickwork repairs and new brick extensions that don't match your existing property. 

Brick remains a staple in British housebuilding as it is low maintenance, cost-effective, and widely used by the trade; however, colour and finish vary depending on the type of brick used, while reclaimed bricks cannot always be found in sufficient quantities. 

This is where brick tinting comes in. But what exactly is it? We look at the process, cost and more with this quick guide. 

What is Brick Tinting?

Brick tinting is a process whereby bricks are stained to match existing brickwork, or their colour altered for more visually appealing results. Colour pigments are combined with a fixing agent (potassium silicate in the main) and once this saturates the brick, the tint is permanent. 

How long does brick tinting last? As long as the bricks do. The colour is not lost as bricks weather or are exposed to UV so there’s no on-going maintenance. The popularity of brick tinting has particularly taken off in the States with some homeowners changing the colour of their entire house. It can even be used to emulate a sooted look; a good option when extending urban homes subject to pollution over the years. 

Tints are free from volatile organic compounds (VOCs) —  given off by chemical-based substances such as some paints —  which can potentially impact on health.

How Does the Brick Tinting Process Work? 

The tint consists of a three part system which includes water, iron oxide colour pigments and a fixing agent. 

A brick tinting specialist will first carry out a sample to give a good indication of the end result. At this point, the tint is created without the fixing agent; meaning the sample can be washed off with a pressure washer. 

Once a colour match has been made, the fixing agent is added to the mix; it’s this agent which bonds the tint permanently to the brick. This agent should allow the bricks to breathe.

When Should Brick Tinting Be Undertaken?

Work is ideally carried out in the summer, but the only real conditions to avoid are those below approximately 4°C and/or driving rain

How Much Does Brick Tinting Cost?

Most brick tinting companies charge between £450-550 + VAT per day.

If the job is a straightforward brick darkening, then one professional should do between 30-40 sq m per day.

If the job is more detailed, or requires lightening and application of more artistic after-tones, then expect the cost to double. 

If you're undertaking brick tinting on a DIY basis, brands such as Dye Brick offer a coverage calculator to help you work out how much product you need. 

What Types of Bricks can be Tinted?

Tints cannot be applied to bricks which have been treated with any sort of waterproofing solution.

Where it is possible, it’s not just a case of choosing a colour which appears a good match on paper. Other factors can affect the results such as:

• the porosity of bricks (which varies greatly)
• texture — heavily textured bricks cast shadows depending on the angle from which you view the house so pick the most important view, and then keep checking from this stance

If you're unsure on whether your property is viable, or how to achieve the desired effect, your best bet is to work with professional applicators on your project. 

Brick Tinting to Colour Match a New Extension

If you intend to extend and are unable to source a brick to match, then specifying bricks with a view to tinting them can be a good solution.

Choose a brick which is identical, or at the very least similar in size and finish to the existing bricks. Tinting will alter the colour, but up close, differences in texture and size will be a tell-tale sign.

(MORE: Matching Materials for an Extension)

Tinting bricks a darker colour is a more straightforward task than lightening them, so choose a brick slightly lighter than the original.

New bricks should be laid in alignment with the old and in the same brick bond. 

Using mortar of the same colour and texture is also vital and you can tint this too (but care must be taken when tinting lime mortar).

(MORE: Mortar Mix: How to Choose the Right One)

At Homebuilding & Renovating, we’re lucky enough to see some of the best homes in the UK on a daily basis. Here we celebrate the design ingenuity behind some of the most memorable exteriors we’ve come across.

1. Fantasy made self build reality

This remarkable custom built home stretches the imagination to its limits. Built without formal plans on a DIY basis, it’s an astonishing example of self build vision and enthusiasm. And we can’t think of any other self build that features a decorative dragon.

2. Gold star extension

This traditional detached home in Devon got a striking new look following a extension by architect Stan Bolt. The abstract canopy provides shelter and shade to the decked terrace that sits over the basement extension.

Clad in gold-coloured copper-aluminium alloy interlocking shingles, the wing-like structure was a first for Stan, and received full support from neighbours and planning officers.

3. Boundary-pushing extension

A contrasting extension and remodelling project has turned this banal post-war detached property in Hampshire into a remarkable contemporary home.

Working within planning constraints, the existing house was turned into the open-plan living area, while a radical, contemporary extension was added to house the bedrooms. From the front, the house looks relatively unchanged, but it’s impossible to forget this imaginative extension.

4. Stunning steel cladding

Encouraged by the planners to come up with a bold design, this riverside self build does not disappoint. Roughcast concrete was used for the ground floor, with grey ash-glazed bricks used on the road-facing facade.

The roof and first floor walls have been built using SIPs and wrapped in an expanded Corten steel mesh which acts as a rainscreen while allowing water to filter through to the gutters hidden beneath the metal sheets.

With the chalk cliff backdrop, this steel-clad home looks even more striking.

5. Concave curve design

With a backdrop of rolling countryside, it can be difficult to build a modern home that works harmoniously with the landscape.

This noteworthy project not only fits with its surroundings, but manages to look both futuristic and traditional at the same time.

The contemporary concave design mirrors a dewdrop-shaped lake at the front of the property, and features both modern glazing and natural materials, including local stone and exposed beams.

6. The Yorkshire chalet

Chanelling the Swiss vernacular, you could be forgiven for not believing that this chalet-style self build is actually located in South Yorkshire.

7. The self build with sails

Imported from Lithuania as a prefabricated timber frame kit, this timber, steel and glass eco home features extraordinary textile ‘sails’ which shade the enormous gable windows under the eaves.

8. Contemporary courtyard

You might think this home unforgettable due to the fact clever design has afforded the homeowners a peaceful and private courtyard in the Shepherd’s Bush district of west London.

However, it is the distinctive orange-red metal cladding that really makes this home something to remember.

While it’s easy to focus on the interior of your home when renovating or extending, an exterior makeover could in fact be the finishing touch that your home’s facade is crying out for.

And, with one of the benefits of an exterior makeover being that it’s not just limited to one style of home, whether you’re renovating a tired post-war, red-brick property with uPVC fascias and single-glazed windows, or a period building that’s been unsympathetically extended, there are a variety of techniques you can employ.

Only have a limited budget to spare? This doesn’t exclude you. There are also several low-cost exterior makeover design tricks you can use to ensure your home’s external makeover is still impactful, but kinder to your bank balance.

Start with an external audit of your home

Before diving into the more extensive exterior makeovers such as changing your external cladding, or upgrading your windows, it’s important to start with a full audit of the exterior of your home and your surrounding.

“Start by looking at your home holistically,” says managing director and principal designer at Back to Front Exterior Design, Alexandra Hull. “Before thinking about aesthetic upgrades, take a walk around the property and note any maintenance issues such as roofing, drainage, cracks, insulation gaps or weatherproofing, so they can be addressed as part of an overall scheme.

“Then, rather than asking yourself what you dislike, consider what would help the house function better and feel more balanced overall,” she suggests. "Seeking experienced professional advice is also the key to saving you a lot of time and money on unnecessary or ill-thought-out interventions that might not be suitable for your building," she adds.

Once you bring in an expert, you can then expect them to take not only the exterior of your house into account, but also the surrounding area.

“When approaching the exterior of a building with the intention of reimagining it, I begin by understanding its fundamentals, the bones of the structure, its proportions, massing, and overall rhythm,” says Lindsay Mattinson, principal architect and director at Mattinson Associates.

“From there, I study neighbouring buildings, where relevant, to derive appropriate geometries and scales, and undertake a detailed site analysis to determine where extensions should be located,” she explains.

“Guided by this analysis and the client’s intended direction, whether traditional or contemporary, I then block out the primary massing and establish the overall architectural language. By this stage, I will also have considered the wider context, which helps inform an early understanding of suitable materials and reinforces the design direction.”

If you’re planning on a large external makeover idea, it’s also important not to get bogged down with small details before you look at the bigger picture, recommends Lindsay.

“A common mistake is to focus too early on solving isolated issues, which often results in a piecemeal outcome. Starting with the bigger picture allows you to set a clear masterplan from the outset. Once this is in place, the design can be broken down into manageable parts and executed with confidence, avoiding unnecessary rework, compromised decisions, and significant wasted cost later on.”

Include energy efficiency measures where you can

Modernising or updating the exterior of your home isn’t just about the aesthetics though. Undertaking bigger projects such as adding new external cladding is also the perfect opportunity for upgrading the energy efficiency of your home - particularly if you are including heating upgrades such as switching to an air source heat pump.

“If scaffolding is going up, adding external insulation, upgrading glazing, improving roof insulation or installing solar panels becomes far more practical and cost-effective,” says Alexandra Hull. “These changes don’t just lower running costs – they make a home warmer, quieter and more comfortable to live in. Energy efficiency is increasingly expected in modern housing, so including it during exterior works is a sensible way to future-proof the property.

“Improving thermal performance will always deliver greater long-term value than cosmetic upgrades alone,” adds Lindsay Mattinson. “But, I personally recommend avoiding the use of spray foam insulation in any part of the property,” she says, “as it prevents the building from breathing and can lead to a range of costly issues over time.

“Equally important is attention to the building’s envelope,” she adds. “Any new external finish must be compatible with the existing wall construction. It should allow the building to breathe, be properly ventilated, and, where neighbouring buildings are concerned, comply with fire safety regulations. Getting these fundamentals right is critical to the long-term performance and safety of your home.”

As adding external insulation can change where and when the dew point (where moisture condenses) occur, every cladding system will be different and so you’ll need to engage with your supplier who’ll advise on the appropriate steps to take.

Exterior makeover options

While big changes will naturally have the most impact on your exterior makeover, if you only have a small budget allocated for this element of your home renovation costs, there are still some lower-price tickets available to you.

“Remodelling the exterior of your home is a spectrum, and small changes often deliver big impact,” says Alexandra Hull. “Something as simple as painting the front door, improving external lighting or tidying the garden can dramatically change how a home feels from the street."

“For mid-range upgrades, repainted facades, a new garage door or driveway improvements can go a long way, whilst larger projects such as changing the geometry of the building, building an extension, along with new cladding, windows or a roof upgrade can have a dramatic effect on the kerb appeal and functionality.”

Low cost: For a simple cost-effective fix, upgrade your front door

Even if you’ve spent a sizeable sum renovating your home inside, if the first impression of your home is a tired front door, it can form someone’s opinion on the rest of your home before they’ve even stepped foot inside.

Restoring your front door and painting it in a fresh new shade is one of the simplest exterior makeovers you can do, and one that doesn’t need professional help either.

“Your front door is part of the home’s kerb appeal and it’s amazing how a simple lick of paint can transform the look and feel of your home’s entrance,” confirms Victoria Yardley, founder of Victory Colours. “Front doors are all about making a statement, and if yours has seen better days, now is the time to revamp.”

According to Victoria, the best front door colours are the ones that work with your home’s character while offering a welcoming feel. “Classic navy is always a winner – it’s elegant, works with any style, and never looks dated,” she suggests. “Deep green shades such as heritage or olive green, are also a fantastic nod to nature and feel wonderfully grounding.

“If you want something soft yet stylish, muted sage green or warm clay tones create an inviting entrance without being overpowering. And of course, for that timeless touch, you can’t go wrong with a rich, black – it’s the little black dress of front doors!”

Or, perhaps your door has seen better days and not even a lick of paint will fix it, in which case you may be seeking new front door ideas, or considering replacing a uPVC door with a composite door – particularly if as previously mentioned, your door is letting heat escape. Even if you don’t replace it, make sure you check it doesn’t need any seals replacing or additional draught proofing measures added.

Low to mid cost: Replacing or changing rainwater goods

Another element you may look to update during an external makeover is old rainwater goods. The material you opt for will not only have an impact on aesthetics, but lifespan too, as Martin Bell, managing director of Transform Architects explains.

“Cast iron has an average lifespan of 50 years, PVCu 30 years, aluminium 40 years, zinc 50 years, and timber, depending on the species, will last on average for 40 years providing the timber has been maintained correctly.

“PVCu is of course the most cost-effective option, although it has a limited colour palette, while the more expensive options are aluminium, steel or zinc, but will give a much nicer finish to the house. Modern makeovers, as well as heritage dwellings, tend to go for these choices, unless replacing like for like, or if budget is an issue.”

For a low-cost upgrade you could also consider replacing your downpipes with rain chains, that offer a more decorative option for a practical task.

Mid range: Maybe your exterior could benefit from a new porch?

Have slightly more budget and think that it’s more about the placement of your door rather than how it looks? You’ll often find that older houses will have been subject to a number of extensions over the years and this can shift the balance of the property – the front door might no longer be centred, windows placement might be unsymmetrical and even the roofline might be jagged.

Adding a bolt-on addition, like a new porch, to emphasise the entrance is also a popular way of pin-pointing the front door. Always double check with your local authority first whether your proposed works can be done under permitted development or whether you need porch planning permission.

Mid range: Window upgrades can bring external and internal benefits

If you’re intending to give your exterior a facelift, the chances are you’ll be looking to replace or revamp your windows too – either on a like-for-like basis if you’re after a period-style look, or perhaps you’re trading in single-glazed or uPVC windows for contemporary powder-coated aluminium frames with acoustic or triple glazing.

Choosing the right style of windows for your exterior makeover project involves looking at all the different types of windows, frame colours and of course how much window costs will set you back.

But, in all instances, again check if you will need planning permission to do so. And, when replacing windows, make sure that your supplier is registered with Fensa, the window authority body. Not having the correct certification in place if you ever sell your home will be an issue and one you want to avoid.

Mid to high budget: If your roof is in need of repair, would it benefit from a complete overhaul?

If the problem with your current exterior lies with the roof, then whether you upgrade it or not may come down to need rather than want. If your roof is in a poor state of repair and at the end of its life, replacing the roof structure and/or adding a new roof covering will, of course, look more attractive but may well be a decision that’s out of your hands. If it’s leaking or unsafe, it will have to be an exterior makeover project you deliver on.

The downside to this will usually come down to new roof costs, which in some cases could make the difference between including a new high-end kitchen in your renovation plans, or even adding a small extension.

High cost: Change or replace your external cladding

One of the most transformative changes you can make to the exterior of your home is to add, replace or upgrade your external cladding. And, it can have additional benefits if your home renovation includes adding more space.

“If, as part of your remodel, you’re planning to add an extension, cladding the new and existing building in the same materials will make the whole property look singular and read as one,” notes Darren Bray, founder and director at Studio BAD.

But, as any exterior job is one that impacts the exterior of your home, your neighbours and the surrounding area, as well as taking up time and money, it’s important to make a number of checks before defining your final design brief.

Ask these questions before finalising your material choices

Will the materials suit the local vernacular?

“When selecting a palette of exterior materials, the key to success is understanding the building’s context,” explains Lindsay Mattinson. “ Look beyond the immediate neighbours and draw inspiration from the wider surroundings, then reinterpret those cues in a way that supports your building and the changes you’re making to it. Avoid simply copying what’s next door but also resist introducing materials that feel out of place or disconnected from their setting,” she advises.

Are they suitable for the local climate?

“When reinterpreting materials, we also consider finishes found in the surrounding landscape, not just those used on nearby buildings and structures. It’s then important to ensure the selected palette works harmoniously as a whole, with thoughtful detailing bringing the materials together and giving the design its coherence,” continues Lindsay.

And, if your location is rural or near the coast, don’t forget to take weather into account when choosing your finishes. Generous exterior makeovers will come at a cost, and you don’t want to be repeating that in a few years time because you made uninformed choices now.

“Studying existing materials and how they weather in their natural context will also offer valuable insight into their long-term performance,” she confirms. “Seeing how materials have aged in situ helps inform choices that will endure; finishes that will still look good in 25 years’ time and won’t demand constant maintenance.

Will the exterior makeover materials work together?

When it comes to combining materials, there are those that naturally sit well together and there are combinations which are best avoided, both for aesthetic and practical reasons – placing cedar above zinc for instance, as tannins in the timber can rot the zinc.

Similarly, clashing colours such as a red brick with the blues of zinc or slate can look jarring.

“Ideally, to keep it simple you should keep your palette to three materials: your primary material perhaps taking up 70% of the façade, your secondary material taking up the remainder of the cladding ratio, and then your third material might be for the details,” advises Andy Ramus founder and director of AR Design Studio.

And finally, make sure you are clear on if there are any distinctions between how you will approach the both the front and the rear of your property. Creating kerb appeal and ensuring the house fits within the streetscape will be priorities for the front elevation, while the rear will be all about the connection between the interior spaces and the garden.

Pros and cons of an external makeover

While working outside your home, rather than renovating the inside may seem like a less disruptive makeover, upgrading, changing or improving the exterior of your home isn’t without its pros and cons.

On the plus side, “an exterior makeover can strengthen kerb appeal, improve protection from the weather, reduce maintenance and give a renewed sense of pride in your home,” explains Alexandra Hull.

“It’s easy to forget, when a neighbour undertakes work on their home, that the benefits also often extend beyond the individual property,” adds Lindsay Mattinson. “Improving one house can enhance the character and feel of an entire neighbourhood, adding value not just for the owner but for those around them as well.”

“The downsides on the other hand are largely practical: cost, disruption and the pressure of making big decisions,” notes Alexandra Hull. “However, with realistic expectations and good planning, the long-term benefits tend to outweigh the short-term inconvenience. Viewing the project as a long-term investment rather than a quick cosmetic fix helps keep the experience grounded and manageable.”

For these reasons, we also strongly recommend engaging an architect where budgets allow, notes Lindsay. “An architect brings invaluable expertise to the process, helping to guide decisions, manage complexity, and ultimately deliver a home that justifies the time, effort, and investment involved.

“Equally important is the choice of builder,” she advises. “Working with a trusted and experienced contractor even if their quote is higher, can significantly reduce risk and anxiety. A well-executed build, with proper attention to detail, far outweighs the ongoing cost and frustration of repeatedly fixing work that should have been done correctly in the first place.

“With construction costs in the UK at an all-time high, our advice is simple: if you choose to build, do it properly, and do it with skilled professionals who know what they are doing,” says Lindsay. “In the long run, the results will speak for themselves and the investment will be worth it.”

FAQs

How much will an exterior makeover cost?

“Budgets for external makeovers vary widely depending on the scope of work,” says Lindsay Mattinson. “Replacing doors and windows, enlarging openings, upgrading external materials, and improving insulation is a very different undertaking from simply applying a fresh coat of paint and adding shutters.

“We recommend consulting a professional early in the process. This ensures your brief is fully understood and allows budgets to be defined more accurately, helping you plan with confidence,” she suggests.

How much value will an exterior makeover add to your home?

With budgets for exterior makeovers being so wide, while adding a coat of paint won't necessarily make you feel that you need a payback in the future, some of the larger ticket items could. So how much value will an exterior makeover add? And, is it always monetary or could there be other value too?

“A well-planned exterior makeover almost always improves how a property is perceived. Buyers respond positively to homes that look cared for and visible upgrades suggest good maintenance behind the scenes,” says Alexandra Hull.

“Addressing neglect, updating dated features and improving performance can significantly strengthen saleability. Even modest improvements can shift first impressions, and in property terms that early emotional response often translates into real financial value,” she adds.

“The right approach to adding value to your home with an external makeover depends heavily on your budget, the team you engage, the extent of the work, and the overall outcome you are aiming for,” expands Lindsay Mattinson.

“In some cases, it may be more effective to improve the appearance of your home by leaving the external fabric largely untouched and focusing instead on the surrounding landscape.

Thoughtful landscaping can dramatically change how a building is perceived. A well-designed garden can create visual breaks, frame views, and subtly segment the building so the eye reads it in a more considered and appealing way.

“When re-inventing a home, we believe it’s essential to look beyond the building fabric alone,” she advises. “The relationship between the interiors and the surrounding landscape should form part of the same design conversation, working together to shape how the home is experienced as a whole.”

In summary, our experts share their final advice if you’re planning an exterior makeover.

“Look to tailor aesthetic improvements specifically to the property, making it the best version of itself, rather than trying to mould it into something it doesn’t naturally lend itself to,” says Alexandra Hull. “Choose quality materials and avoid overly trend led styles, so the result is a timeless home that will stand the test of time.”

“Always check whether your property or location requires planning permission, listed building consent, or building regulations approval,” continues Lindsay Mattinson. “Understanding these requirements upfront can save time, cost, and frustration later.

“Next, engage a skilled professional, she reiterates. “The value they bring to a project is tangible and often measurable. For complex projects, involve them throughout the entire process. If your budget is more limited, consider commissioning an overall masterplan from someone experienced, then manage the execution yourself with that clear framework in place.”