If you’re a DIYer, you might find some of the best reciprocating saws quite intimidating, due to their extreme power or complicated features. Yet on the other hand, you’ll sometimes find that the most basic models lack the power or quality to excel at chopping or plunge cutting all sorts of materials including wood, metal and plasterboard.

The Worx Nitro WX501 is a compact, cordless model that’s pitched somewhere in-between the two extremes. It’s certainly powerful, with a 20V motor driving its blade at up to 3,000 strokes per minute – but it’s also approachable, with a minimal form factor and simple controls.

It sounds good on paper, but how does the Worx Nitro WX501 perform when faced with wood or metal? I set up a series of DIY tests to find out.

Where to buy the Worx Nitro WX501

Key specifications

• Cordless tool family: Worx PowerShare
• Intended uses include: plunge-cutting; cutting workpieces including metal bars and wooden beams
• Battery capacity: 2.0Ah
• Voltage: 20V
• Blade speed: 0 - 3,000/min
• Stroke length: 26mm
• Weight: 1.8kg

Alongside the tool itself, you get a 2.0Ah lithium-ion battery to power it, and a Worx WA3880 battery charger, both of which can also be used with compatible ‘bare tools’ from the Worx Powershare range. All of the components come with a good-quality hard case for storage and transportation (provided you choose the retailer carefully – some sell the same tool with a soft storage bag).

Last but not least, two reciprocating saw blades are bundled in with the tool. One of these is designed for cutting metal; the other is intended for wood. You can also buy other types of reciprocating saw blades, including these Masonry Reciprocating Saw Blades from Screwfix that can saw through brick and concrete – though I would recommend using these with a contractor-grade reciprocating saw.

How I tested

I reviewed the Worx Nitro WX501 Cordless Brushless Compact Reciprocating Saw by testing it across an appropriate range of tasks, including cutting clean through wood or metal, and plunge-cutting holes in MDF.

1. Cutting timber

I was blown away by the power of the WX501 when I used it to cut various pieces of wood. Running at up to 3,000 strokes per minute, the blade made its way through hardwood and softwood battens in a matter of seconds, producing fairly clean cuts that needed only a little tidying up using a sander. (With that said, you should always cut wood fractionally over the required length when using a reciprocating saw, so that you can adjust the finish without making the piece too short).

It took next to no manual effort to cut wood with this saw, so I could focus on directing the saw blade accurately, while the weight and cutting action of the tool did the hard work. As well as cutting wood to size for woodworking projects, I found that this tool was very useful for cutting scrap wood into pieces to make firewood or kindling.

2. Cutting metal

With its metal-cutting saw blade attached, the WX501 did a good job of cutting through metal tubing. It completed this task quickly, although not as rapidly as it was able to cut through wood, and the maximum cutting capacity is lower (10mm for steel or 15mm for aluminium, versus 80mm for wood).

When cutting any workpiece with the WX501, I would recommend bracing the pivoting shoe at the front of the saw against the workpiece, as this makes it easier to keep everything stable and produce an accurate cut. Secure clamping is very important, and you may need to weight your workbench if it is light, as the action of the saw is very powerful.

3. Plunge-cutting

During my testing, plunge-cutting holes into MDF board proved to be the WX501’s most impressive capability. The saw was able to cut through the material with absolute ease and excellent control, even when I really tested it by cutting gently curved shapes.

I was able to tweak the cutting depth slightly by adjusting the saw’s movable shoe, which would be a handy capability when you’re cutting into a stud wall, for example. As this saw is relatively light, compared to other reciprocating saws, it was easier to control when plunge-cutting from below.

Ease of use

One of the selling points to this reciprocating saw is its compact format, and this does make it easy to hold with one hand around the grip, and the other supporting the tool from underneath. However, it’s still pretty heavy, and there’s not much for your non-trigger hand to grip while supporting the tool from beneath. When you’ve been using it for a longer-duration task, your forearms will know about it.

The saw is activated with a variable speed trigger. Pressing this lightly gives a slow, controlled cutting action, and I found that it was highly responsive when I wanted to press harder for a higher cutting speed. This is the only way to control the cutting speed – there are no selectable gears of the sort you sometimes find on tools like the best cordless drills. You can use the lock button next to the trigger to prevent it from being pressed down inadvertently and activating the saw.

Changing the saw blade is very simple – you just turn the blade release lever, push the blade into the blade clamp slot and allow the release lever to return to its original position, now holding the blade in place.

Battery performance

I was pretty impressed with this saw’s runtime. On a single charge of the 2.0Ah battery, it was able to complete a few hours’ worth of testing across various cutting tasks, as described above. However, I did need to recharge it in order to complete the process, and I believe that DIYers embarking on heftier tasks such as demolition work would benefit from buying a spare battery (available from Worx) to swap in whenever the original battery needs recharging.

The charger couldn’t be much simpler. It’s lightweight and provides just the right level of feedback via its status lights, which tell you when the battery is charging, fully charged, broken or at the wrong temperature for charging (the latter two were never needed during my testing). I was pleased to find that it could charge the 2.0Ah battery within around one hour.

Who should buy it?

I see the WX501 as a tool mainly for DIYers, rather than for professional tradespeople. It’s very handy for a variety of home improvement tasks, from rough-cutting timber and chopping shower rails down to size, to plunge cutting holes in the wall for electrical sockets (provided you know how to avoid cutting into wires!) I’d find it difficult to imagine the DIYer who wouldn’t find plenty of uses for a reciprocating saw – and this one is among the best in its class.

You might also find it useful for outdoor tasks such as cutting up wood for firewood, or cutting pruned tree branches into smaller pieces so that these can fit into the garden waste bin. (I use proper secateurs for the pruning itself, as these can produce cleaner cuts that are healthier for the tree.)

If you have a lot of structural work ahead of you (e.g. cutting through brick), then this saw might just about do the job, but you’d probably be better off choosing a contractor-grade reciprocating saw for tasks of this type – perhaps with corded power.

Final verdict

This is a very good tool for the lighter-duty work that’s typically tackled with a reciprocating saw. If what you need is a saw that will conveniently cut wood and metal, or plunge-cut into relatively soft materials (probably not brick or stone), then the WX501 is a superb option.

I was highly impressed with this saw’s cutting performance across a variety of tests. It was excellent at plunge-cutting, great at cutting wood, and good enough at cutting metal to suit most DIY scenarios. Perhaps best of all, its cutting capabilities are delivered in a compact, uncomplicated format that will help many DIY users get to grips with using a reciprocating saw.

If you’re working on a DIY project where you need to fix an object to a wall, I can guarantee you’ll need to use a Rawlplug to make it the fixing secure. Also known as wall plugs, Rawlplugs are a key component in the fixing process, but you need to choose the right ones for them to be effective.

When drilling into brick or masonry for example, you can’t simply screw straight into the drill hole. The screw simply won’t grip, and the fixing will fail. A Rawlplug will add the holding power needed to support it.

But you still need to choose the appropriate option. Find out what types are available and what will work for your next DIY project.

Rawlplugs, rawl plugs or wall plugs?

If you're wondering why you might hear the term Rawlplugs, rawl plugs and wall plugs in reference to just one type of product, there's a reason why, as Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements explains.

“A rawl plug, properly called a wall plug, is also called a 'Rawlplug' as it's the brand name that has become generically associated with it – a bit like a 'Hoover' is used to describe a vacuum cleaner. It's a small tube made of either plastic or nylon, inserted in a hole that's been drilled in masonry, into which you insert a screw.”

They are typically used in walls to provide a secure fix. "Brick, block, or concrete does not provide sufficient friction on its own for the thread of the screw to grip,” he expands. The plug expands to fit in the hole as the screw is inserted, and this expansion helps create a stronger hold between the screw and the wall.

Types of rawl plug

Rawlplugs are effectively designed the same, with slight variations for different DIY tasks. The key difference is the size. Scott Godfrey, trade consultant for Black Hammer and owner of SG Carpentry, explains further.

“The most common differences are the diameter and length of the plug. A larger diameter plug can generally support heavier loads because it creates a stronger grip inside the wall, and longer plugs are useful when you need extra support or when fixing into softer materials where a deeper anchor is needed,” he says.

“The sizes typically correspond to the diameter of the drill bit,” adds Angelo Patrizi. For example, a 6mm Rawlplug commonly fits a hole drilled with a 6mm bit.

Beyond the standard, there are also specialist plugs designed for different wall types, “Plasterboard fixings, cavity wall plugs and heavy duty masonry plugs all work differently because the materials they grip behave differently,” explains Scott.

What rawl plug colours mean

“The colours are a simple way to identify the size of the plug, although it’s worth remembering that colour coding can vary between brands,” explains Scott Godfrey. “Traditionally, red, brown and yellow plugs are commonly seen in DIY shops, with each colour representing a different diameter.”

Angelo Patrizi explains the common sizes for colours and what screw is needed.

“5mm plugs are yellow and need a no. 6-8 screw, 6mm is red and needs a no. 8-10, 7/8mm is brown and a no. 10-14 is needed. Large or heavy-duty for bigger fixtures are typically grey or blue plugs,” he adds.

Don’t forget to check sizes with the individual retailer before you buy or use though as colours, especially yellow, red and brown, may differ slightly.

Shop these Rawl plugs and tools for DIY projects

How to use a Rawlplug

It's pretty straightforward to use a Rawlplug, but there are a few simple rules to follow.

“To use one correctly, you first need to choose the right plug and screw for the job, then drill a hole that matches the size of the plug," says Scott Godfrey.

“The plug should fit snugly into the hole without being forced in, and it should sit flush with the wall surface,” he adds. Make sure the drilled hole is also deep enough for the plug's length.

A simple tip I use is to line up the Rawlplug alongside the drill bit to be used, add 5mm and mark this by wrapping masking tape around the drill bit

When to use Rawlplugs

Rawlplugs are used to attach items to masonry, typically walls. I use them mainly to put up shelves and hang pictures and hooks, but I have also used them to hang wall cabinets.

But these are not the only jobs where they will be called upon. Angelo Patrizi suggests a few other tasks, including, “hanging curtain rails and mirrors, fixing TV mount brackets and kitchen cabinet mounts, fitting radiators, rain gutter mount brackets and house numbers.”

“They’re particularly useful whenever you need a secure fixing in brick, concrete or plasterboard,” adds Scott Godfrey.

But, one word of warning. Remember, if fixing into plasterboard, Rawlplugs will not work; you will need specialist plasterboard fixings. "A small pack of plasterboard fixings (self-drilling or toggle) are needed for anything not going into masonry," confirms Angelo Patrizi.

For ease of reference, if you're wondering what colour Rawplugs will suit common DIY jobs, Anglo explains.

"Yellow (5mm) is ideal for lightweight fixings like picture hooks and small brackets. Red (6mm) is the most commonly used size, which is good for curtain poles, mirrors, and light shelving. Brown (7/8mm) for heavier shelving, radiators, kitchen units."

“A useful DIY toolbox should therefore include a few common sizes (5mm, 6mm and 8mm plugs are good ones) along with matching screws,” advises Scott.

Rawlplug hacks

A poorly drilled hole can mean a loose-fitting plug. The obvious solution is to drill a new hole nearby, but this isn't always possible.

If you do have a loose fitting, Scott Godfrey says, “don’t just force a larger screw into it and hope for the best If you don’t have the right plug available, it’s usually better to wait and buy the correct fixing, rather than risk damaging the wall or having the item fall.”

However, if you are only putting up a lightweight item, such as a shelf, Angelo Patrizi suggests a few hacks to help. “Take a small piece of insulation tape or even a strip taken from a plastic bag to fill up an undersized plug.”

Another option I’ve used over the years is matches. Break a couple of matches into the hole next to a loose plug in order to increase the friction; it’s an old trick but very effective.

How to remove a Rawlplug

If you’re lucky, you can remove a Rawlplug by hand. However, if this isn’t the case, there are a few options.

A simple way to remove is to get a larger screw and screw into the Rawlplug. Then get a pair of pliers such as these Draper 200mm Combination Pliers from Amazon to pull it out. Alternatively, use the claw on a claw hammer.

If you are struggling to remove a Rawlplug, I simply tap it in further and fill the hole with a decent wall filler. I use a patching plaster such as this Bartoline Patching Plaster from Amazon, as it sets quickly and is easy to rub down. Another option I’ve also used is to drill out the Rawlplug.

Rawl plugs are a key component when hanging items on the wall. Find out how they are used in our how to hang a picture guide. If putting up shelves and you need some inspiration, make sure you check our kitchen shelving ideas and bedroom shelving ideas before you start.

When kicking off a new DIY project, you almost always have to decide between nails or screws as the primary fixing. But which one will you need? Choosing between the two may seem obvious, and in some cases it will, but in other scenarios it won’t be.

For example, what will you need if you’re drilling into brick to put up a shelf? You’ll need a fixing that will bear the load and one that will provide better holding power. In this case, a screw.

However, it's not always that obvious, and there are times when you will need to decide. Based on my years of DIY experience, here's how to make the right choice.

Nails vs screws – how to choose

When it comes to how nails and screws look, it's pretty straightforward and easy to identify which is a nail and which is a screw.

“Nails have smooth shafts and are driven in by hammering," explains explains Tom Armenante, director at GTSE UK. "They rely on friction and wood compression to hold, install fast, and have some flex to absorb shock.

"Screws have a helical thread and are driven in by turning," he continues. "They grip better and resist pulling out, but are more rigid, slower to install, and easy to remove and reuse without damage.”

Rules for choosing

Choosing screws or nails for a project isn’t always easy, but there are some rules and guidelines that can help make the process simpler.

“There isn't a strict rule, but most tradespeople ask a few practical questions to help make their decisions,” shares Tom Armenante, explaining how one of the most important questions is, "will it be load-bearing or structural? If so, go with screws for better holding power," he says. "And, if it might need to come apart in the future, then screws again are the best choice, since they remove cleanly.

“If speed or volume is the priority however, then nails are a good choice, especially for things like first fix stud walls," Tom continues. "For jobs like timber settings where some flex or movement is expected, then nails are also a good choice, since they will flex rather than snap.

"For finishing work like fitting skirting boards and architrave, using nails, usually with a pin nailer, will give a clean finish,” he adds.

Scott Godfrey, trade consultant for Black Hammer and owner of SG Carpentry, notes how, “it's also worth thinking about the material you're fixing into. Plasterboard, decking, kitchen cabinets, shelving and flat pack furniture are generally better suited to screws, while timber framing, roof battens and some types of fencing often rely on nails.”

Also consider the project's weight and whether it is internal or external. “Always consider the weight the fixing needs to support and whether the project is indoors or outdoors," says Scott. “For external work, use corrosion-resistant fixings such as galvanised or stainless steel so they don't rust when exposed to the weather.”

Quick reference guide

Shop these tools for your next project

5 common mistakes DIYers need to avoid

The effects of choosing the wrong fixing may not always be immediately obvious. However, there can be longer-term consequences, explains Tom Armenante.

“Choosing the wrong fixing can compromise both structural integrity and aesthetics, leading to early failure and expensive repairs. In load-bearing applications, using nails instead of screws inevitably causes components to loosen, sag, or fail under weight.

"Meanwhile, using rigid screws where timber needs room to flex causes the wood to split and crack.”

As well as picking nails instead of screws, and vice versa, there are also common mistakes that DIYers often make that it helps to avoid if you want your DIY to stay together.

1. Don’t assume nails and screws are interchangeable

“One of the biggest mistakes is assuming nails and screws are interchangeable (they aren't),” says Scott Godfrey. "Using nails where screws are needed can mean your shelves, brackets or furniture gradually work loose because nails don't provide the same pull-out resistance.

"Or equally, using screws for some structural timber jobs where nails are specified can create problems because certain screws aren't designed to cope with movement in the same way.”

2. Choosing the wrong size

A common mistake is choosing the wrong size. Tom Armenante says, “don’t ignore the length and gauge of the fixing. If they are too short, they won't hold; too long and it can split the material or poke through the other side.”

3. Not choosing the right finish

“People also overlook the importance of using the correct finish,” warns Scott Godfrey. For example, “Standard steel fixings used outside will eventually rust, staining timber and weakening the fixing.” Tom Armenante adds, “A proper corrosion-resistant or stainless option will work better.”

4. Overdriving screws

It's easy to do, but try not to overdrive screws and Tom Armenante reveals why. “Avoid overdriving screws into the material as it could strip the head, sink too deep and crack the material by not stopping at the right torque.”

5. Not pre-drilling when needed

Pre-drilling, especially in wood, can help with installation. “Pre-drilling isn’t always needed," says Tom Armenante, "but with hardwoods or near edges, skipping a pilot hole causes splitting.”

Key sizes and types for a DIYer's toolbox

The types and sizes of nails and screws you will need will depend on what type of DIY projects you regularly tackle. However, as a general rule, Scott Godfrey recommends the following.

“A range of countersunk wood screws in common sizes such as 3.5 x 30 mm, 4 x 40 mm and 5 x 60 mm, as these cover many everyday jobs around the home.”

These Wirox Universal Screws from Amazon are a good choice, and make sure that you have Rawl plugs to match.

However, there are a lot of options to choose from says Scott.“For outdoor work, keep some galvanised or stainless steel wood screws in similar sizes. For nails, a packet of lost-head nails (such as these ForgeFix Lost Head Nails from Amazon), for trim work, oval wire nails for general timber jobs, and galvanised round wire nails for outdoor projects will handle most basic DIY tasks.

“If you regularly work with timber," he adds, "panel pins are also useful for lightweight mouldings and decorative trim.”

Tom Aramante also suggests a few other options. “Plasterboard screws have a finer thread, for stud walls and drywall fixing. The most common size is a 3.5 x 38mm. For outdoor timber, you might need decking screws," he notes. "These are typically corrosion-resistant and have a coarse thread. The common size is a 4.5 x 75mm.”

The tools you’ll need to install nails and screws

There’s a range of tools that you need to install nails and screws, some more obvious than others. “A good quality claw hammer is the most useful tool for nails because it allows you to drive them in and remove them if needed,” says Scott Godfrey.

However, if you are tackling larger construction projects, a nail gun will be useful, he continues. “Nail guns can speed up repetitive work, but they aren't essential for most homeowners. A nail punch (such as this 3Pcs Centre Punch Set from Amazon), is also useful when fitting trim because it allows you to sink the nail head below the surface before filling.”

For screws, the obvious tool is a screwdriver. However, “most DIYers will benefit from a cordless drill driver because it makes driving screws much quicker and less tiring,” advises Scott.

But if you are doing a lot of screw work, an impact driver such as this Ryobi Cordless Impact Driver from Amazon can be advisable to purchase. “Impact drivers are particularly useful for long screws or harder timbers because they provide extra turning force with less effort,” says Scott.

The final piece in the screw puzzle is the drill bit. But make sure you have the right ones for the screw being used, otherwise, you could find yourself in trouble.

“Driver bits must match the screw head correctly," warns Scott. "Using the wrong bit is one of the quickest ways to damage both the screw and the tool.”

A handy addition is a countersink bit, such as this 3 Piece 1/4 Inch Hex Shank Countersink Drill Bit Set from Amazon. These allow screw heads to sit neatly below the timber surface, creating a cleaner, more professional finish.”

Nails and screws are key components of a wide range of DIY projects. Check out our kitchen shelving ideas, how to install coving, and driveway fence ideas that will all need nails or screws.

When removing old paint from woodwork, it's tempting to rush the preparation and cover it with a new coat of paint. Who’s going to know? However, if I plan to stain or varnish the wood, I always make sure it's completely paint-free to achieve the finish and reveal the natural beauty of the wood below. Leaving any paint behind can spoil the appearance.

I could use less preparation, particularly if I'm repainting, but I believe doing the job properly gives better results. I’m probably a bit of a perfectionist, but using the right tools to remove old paint and sand wood guarantees the right finish.

In this guide, I explain what tools I use, how to use them (in the order suggested) and where you can buy them, so that you too can make sure your woodwork is easy to redecorate.

1. Use a heat gun to soften paint

When you have layers of paint to remove, a heat gun like this budget-friendly VonHaus Heat Gun from Amazon can be your best friend. It's a fast, efficient way to soften old paint before it's removed.

It works really well with oil-based paints, and you might read that it doesn’t work as well with water-based paints, but I’ve never had a problem. For thin layers of paint on wood, a sander is often a better choice as it's a one-step process. No need to heat, remove and then sand. Test an area first to determine which is the best approach, as each task is rarely the same.

Using a heat gun is straightforward to use. It will typically have one or two settings - high and low – and nozzles to direct the heat. For removing paint, use the high setting and the surface nozzle (or no nozzle at all). I generally don't use a nozzle for open areas of wood. If using near glass or an area you don’t want heated, use a thin nozzle to concentrate the heat where needed.

Hold the heat gun about 50mm from the surface and turn it on. Hold in position, gently move it back and forth across the area and wait until the paint starts to bubble. Then move on to the next area. As soon as you have heated a decent-sized area – around 200mm – get your scraper (more on this below) to remove the paint and repeat the process until finished.

A word of warning: when putting down the heat gun while removing paint, make sure to place it on a surface that won’t be affected by heat, e.g., wood. Place it on carpet or vinyl flooring, and it can melt a hole in the material (I know I’ve done it). Also, place it in front of you so you can see it. You don't want to accidentally lean on it and burn yourself (I’ve done that as well).

2. Start removing paint with a scraper

A paint scraper is key when removing paint, and there are a few options to choose from. If I’m removing paint from a mainly flat surface like a door, windowsill, wall, or panelling, I like to use a larger paint scraper, like this 50 mm heavy-duty wood scraper from Screwfix.

Simply place the scraper on the heated paint, apply gentle pressure, and drag it to remove the paint. You may need to go back over the area a few times to remove all paint. Make sure that the blade is clean after use. Typically, the paint will fall off the scraper, but occasionally it will need to be removed.

For more intricate/narrower flat areas, you can use a smaller scraper such as this Bahco 625 Pocket Hand Scraper from Amazon.

3. Use a shave hook for scraping curves

A shave hook is a different type of paint scraper. It typically has a triangular head and includes a straight edge, a small straight edge, a curved inset, and a curved edge. It's this combination that helps remove paint from intricate areas. The long shaft and wooden handle help minimise heat transfer.

I use my shave hook to remove paint from architraves, skirting boards, stair bannisters, and hard-to-reach grooves and corners. How you use it depends on what you are working on. The inset curve is ideal for rounded contours, while the point is great for tight corners and 90-degree joins.

However, be careful when working on intricate areas; take your time to ensure the shave hook doesn’t slip and gouge the wood.

4. Introduce wirewool for delicate or difficult paint removal

Wirewool (or metal scourer) is a finishing tool for removing paint. When I can’t quite get into a groove or an intricate curve on a moulding with any of the other tools I have at my disposal, I often revert to using wire wool to remove it (fine grade is good).

It's a little more flexible than sandpaper and is good for just about getting into anywhere. For deeper grooves, I sometimes combine it with the thin edge of a scraper, like this Dekton 2" Professional Scraper from Amazon. This helps to reach further into a groove or crevice.

It's also a good option if you're using a paint stripper. Sandpaper is more prone to clogging quickly, so you need to use more of it. However, when using wirewool (or a metal scourer), you can clean and carry on.

5. Finish off with sandpaper

Sandpaper is the classic finishing tool; whether sanding wood by hand or with one of the best hand sanders, it's the perfect tool for removing any remnants of paint and improving surface adhesion for a coat of paint or varnish.

For flat areas, a random orbital sander works for most surfaces. A detail sander like this BLACK+DECKER 55W Compact Electric Mouse Sander from Amazon is a good choice for getting into 90-degree corners and sanding stair spindles.

For heavy paint removal, start with a coarse sandpaper grade, such as 60 or 80-grit. Then use a finer grit, such as 180 or 220, to finish. Find out more in our sanding wood guide.

6. Unleash paint stripper for intricate areas

I’m not a fan of paint stripper for most paint removal jobs, simply because it slows the removal process and, in many scenarios, doesn’t do a better job than the other tools in this article. Typically, you’ll need to apply and leave for 30 minutes on thin layers of paint before it's effective. For lots of layers, it will need to be left for hours, and in some cases covered.

However, there are times when it can be a sensible choice, typically when removing paint from moulding, or furniture where you want to keep the detail.

To use, apply as instructed, usually with a brush; leave, then remove with a scraper, and wipe clean with white spirit or soapy warm water to remove any residue.

Why removing all paint is a good idea

There are a few reasons why removing all paint from woodwork is a good idea. David Baines, Technical specification manager at Johnstone's Paint, reveals why it's particularly essential if you'll be using a non-paint finish after stripping.

“If the aim is to restore the natural finish or the original look of a surface, any old paint needs removing in order to stain, oil, or varnish the exposed timber correctly. That way, any finish will penetrate evenly and bring out the beauty of the natural grain more clearly," he says.

David also says there's another, more practical reason. “Stripping back to the bare wood also allows you to inspect the surface substrate for any hidden issues such as moisture damage, rotting or repairs like holes or scratches that may need attention.”

The risks of leaving paint in place

Leaving old paint on woodwork is not a smart move as it can cause issues with the new top coat, David continues.

“Any new paint applied over a surface will only be as strong as the layer underneath. If the existing coating has started to peel, flake, blister or crack, applying a fresh coat of paint over the top will only disguise the problem temporarily and in time, the problems will get worse,” he warns.

"Any poorly adhered paint left on a surface could result in newly applied paint also peeling and cracking.”

However, this isn’t the only issue, he continues. “Painting over the top of existing paint also increases the likelihood of an uneven finish, with visible differences in old and new paint coats. These imperfections are often more noticeable when painted with certain types of paint such as modern satin, eggshell, or gloss finishes, which tend to reflect more light.”

And finally, if varnishing or staining wood, any paint left will almost certainly lead to poor adhesion and spoil the finished aesthetic.

FAQs

Do different types of paint require different tools?

It depends, says David Baines, agreeing that, "the most effective paint removal method can vary depending on the type and condition of the existing paint coating."

"Oil-based paints tend to form a harder, more durable film so may require more thorough removal tools such as heat guns, specialist paint strippers or more intensive sanding down," he advises.

"Water-based paints are often softer in texture, therefore generally easier to remove. Therefore, rubbing or sanding is usually recommended."

Are there any alternatives you can use to remove paint?

The selection of tools already mentioned in this article should be more than enough to get the job done. I've never needed any other tools to remove paint.

However, there are a couple of eco-friendly alternatives available. Vinegar is often touted as a paint remover and is useful for cleaning away paint residue left after scraping. However, it’s not a viable alternative to heat guns, scrapers and sandpaper.

For outdoor jobs where old, flaking paint needs to be removed, a pressure washer is a quick and effective method. However, be careful as the water jet can damage the surface of more delicate wood.

Once you have removed any paint from wood and prepped the surface, you need to take the next steps. Check out our guides on painting skirting boards, how to paint a panel door, and painting wooden doors to make the most of your freshly prepared surfaces.

Choosing the right board for a DIY project is typically a toss-up between OSB and plywood. Both have a lot to offer, are readily available and offer strength, versatility, and value.

While there is crossover in that both are suitable for some home renovation or DIY projects, there is typically a choice to be made between the two.

OSB and plywood have distinct characteristics, so it’s important that you choose the right one. Make the wrong choice, and you could be revisiting and fixing a lot sooner than you should be. No one wants that, and this guide will ensure you make the right choice.

How do OSB and plywood differ?

OSB and plywood are popular options for DIY projects and do share similarities, but the main difference is in how they area made. Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb, explains. “OSB (Oriented Strand Board) is an engineered wood panel that is made from compressed layers of wood strands bonded with adhesives.”

"Plywood on the other hand is a flat sheet of wood veneers that have been bonded together," he continues, "with the grain of each layer rotated up to 90° relative to the previous one.”

The difference in their make-up and construction is the main reason why you could choose one over the other for your DIY projects, as we'll come on to explain.

How to choose between OSB and plywood

Martin Dooley, a carpentry specialist and the founder of MD Carpentry Workshop, offers a quick summary of how to choose which board you need. "If the board is going to be hidden and you need a strong, budget-friendly sheet, OSB is often the sensible choice.

"However, if the board will be visible, painted, stained or turned into furniture or shelving, plywood is usually worth the extra money because it's easier to finish and looks better," he advises.

“Start by asking whether the board will be seen and what sort of wear it's going to get, and the right choice usually becomes fairly obvious," he adds.

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Pros and cons of OSB vs plywood

Understanding the strengths and drawbacks of each type of board can help you figure out which is more suitable for your intended use. Here we break down the pros and cons of OSB vs plywood using some key characteristics:

1. Strength

“The structure of the wood strands in OSB gives it high strength and a good load-bearing capability along the length of a panel," notes Mark Irving, although plywood is equally as strong. "The pattern creates nearly equal strength in all directions, as the crossing veneers in plywood make it very rigid and capable of spanning gaps without sagging," he notes.

That said, while OSB has high strength, it can struggle with mis-handling. “The unprotected edges of OSB can be easily damaged," explains Mark, especially during transportation or installation.

2. Resistance to water

“Modern adhesives have made OSB highly resistant to delamination or deterioration when exposed to moisture for short amounts of time," says Mark Irving. "But, although it can be water resistant, it is not waterproof. Ideally, OSB should still be kept dry," he notes.

Martin Dooley adds, “if the edges are left exposed to a lot of moisture for long periods of time, they can swell.” This affects the board integrity.

Compared with OSB, plywood is less susceptible to moisture, but for higher-moisture areas, marine plywood is better. Plywood can also be prone to delamination, especially when exposed to excessive amounts of moisture; which means it can begin to separate.

3. Appearance

Martin Dooley says of OSB, “the downside is that it's not the prettiest board in the world, as the surface is rougher. It is less suitable where appearance matters,” he adds.

Whereas on the other hand, the smooth finish of plywood is a big plus. Higher grades have fewer natural defects, and there are also different wood finishes to choose from.

4. Weight

Knowing the weight of each item also matters as it might make a difference on where you want to use it and be carrying the boards.

OSB is typically heavier than standard plywood, making it more difficult to transport and handle. As such, plywood can be more suitable if you need to move several boards upstairs to a loft conversion or bedroom for example.

5. Sustainability

In the sustainability stakes, OSB is usually considered the more eco-friendly of the two, as well as usingsmaller, faster-growing trees for its timber, Mark Irving notes how, “OSB efficiently uses raw materials, produces a low amount of waste and can potentially incorporate recycled content.”

Plywood on the other hand uses timber that relies on trees that take longer to mature than OSB.

Costs and sizes for OSB and plywood

Like for like on size and thickness, OSB is typically cheaper than plywood, as Mark Irving confirms. “OSB tends to be cheaper than plywood, and can cost between 15% and 30% less for the same sheet size and thickness.

As an example, this 2440mm x 1220mm x 12mm Hardwood Plywood from B&Q is currently £27. This comparable OSB3 Board from B&Q is currently £22. A difference of around 20%, which can make a big difference on larger projects.

A common size for both OSB and plywood is 2440mm x 1220mm, though both are available in smaller sizes. In relation to the thickness, Mark says, “OSB is available in sizes ranging from 9mm to 40mm, with thicker sizes usually made for heavy-duty uses and special applications. Plywood is usually available in thicknesses of 3mm to 25mm, with thicker panels being better for structural applications."

Beyond size and thickness, OSB and plywood are available in different grades. OSB is rated from 1 - 4, while plywood is graded from Class 1 - 3 for the performance of standard plywood. There is also marine plywood, which is bonded to stricter standards and is more resistant to moisture.

OSB3 is usually a popular choice. Mark describes it as, “load-bearing OSB for use in humid conditions." Effectively, this means most DIY projects. Plywood is also graded on appearance. AB plywood is the highest grade in terms of appearance, with CC grade being the lowest.

When buying OSB or plywood, check the grade and rating to ensure it meets the needs of your project. As a general rule, what you buy in hardware stores is fine for general DIY projects. However, if you need something specialist, make sure to check before purchasing.

Where to use OSB

OSB is a popular choice for many DIY projects where appearance is not critical. This makes it a good choice for the following:

• Subflooring – OSB is the better choice for subflooring when constructing timber frames for example. It's cheaper and more flexible, and it can be covered with more aesthetically pleasing flooring.
• Wall and roof sheathing – Both OSB and plywood are acceptable, but Mark Irving recommends OSB. “OSB tends to perform better, provided that you use a moisture-resistant grade and avoid direct exposure to water.” For example, if tiling on wood, i.e, OSB, you need to add a backer board like this HardieBacker Backerboard from B&Q.
• Shed floor and roof – Martin Dooley says, “for sheds, I'd happily use OSB. It's strong, practical and extremely cost-effective, particularly for the roof and floor because nobody will see it.” It is commonly used in cheaper sheds.

If you are putting together a new shed using OSB, I recommend treating the outside-facing surfaces of it before you start building. A sealer like this Siramico Coatings Liquid Rubber Roof Coating from Amazon will help protect against moisture and prolong your shed's lifespan. Don't forget to seal the edges too.

Where to use plywood

Plywood is a popular choice for many DIY projects where appearance is important, and can be used as an alternative to OSB in some cases. This makes it ideal for the following:

• Furniture and shelving – Plywood's smooth appearance makes it an ideal choice for furniture and shelving. Mark Irving says, “it can be practical and cost-effective when building furniture, and can be used to make cabinet carcasses in kitchens and bedrooms.”
• Walls and floors – It can be used for walls on timber frames and exterior walls, as long as the right type of plywood is used. For subflooring, it can be an alternative to OSB. Ceilings are also a choice, offering a natural look or a painted finish.
• Bathrooms and kitchens – You can use plywood in high-moisture areas if it is treated/sealed and will be covered, for example with tiles. Alternatively, you can use marine-grade plywood. However, marine plywood is more expensive than standard plywood.

If you are using plywood for your DIY projects, you’ll need to know how to treat it to achieve the best finish. Our guides on painting plywood and waterproofing plywood will help prolong its life. Alternatively, you can use it as a plasterboard alternative for an interior finish.

There's no doubt that water pouring from your washing machine's detergent tray can be worrying. It can quickly flood your floor and put your washing machine out of action, leaving you without your much-needed laundry facilities.

But what causes it and is it always easy to fix? I was really hoping my problem would be straightforward, and simply be a case of cleaning the right parts. Unfortunately, it wasn't quite that simple, but it still was a job I could fix myself.

So, before you start looking at how long washing machines last and invest in a new one, or pay for expensive plumber call-out charges, follow the steps I took to resolve my leak and get my machine working like new.

Reasons why your washing machine detergent tray is leaking

The first thing you need to do is find out why water is leaking from the detergent tray. As you might expect, there can be a number of reasons, so it is often a process of elimination. I typically start with the simple, less time-consuming option if I’m unsure.

1. Blocked detergent drawer or housing

Ian Palmer-Smith, appliance repair expert at Domestic & General, reveals one of the most common causes: “A blocked detergent drawer or housing is a common cause of overflow, typically due to a build-up of detergent, fabric softener, or mould restricting water flow.”

I took my detergent tray out (a simple job we can all do) to see if it made any difference – but it didn't.

Water was still pouring out, but now I could see more of what was happening with the detergent tray removed.

My top tip at this stage? Make sure you have someone with you who can switch off the washing machine at the power point to immediately stop the water flow. Also, keep a bath towel nearby to stop any stray water from dripping onto the floor.

2. Blocked dispenser hose

Now I could see what was actually happening inside, I could see water flowing from the top of the tray, as it should. However, after a few seconds, the drain to the drum filled, and water once again flowed from the tray area onto the floor. Once again, make sure you have someone next to the power point for a quick switch off.

The fact the leak continued suggested the problem with my machine was down to a blockage somewhere else (and which I subsequently discovered to be in the dispenser hose).

Ian Palmer-Smith confirms this is another common problem. “A blocked or partially blocked dispenser hose can prevent water from draining properly into the drum, causing it to back-up and spill.”

3. Less common problems

There are also a few other issues that can cause water to spill out from the detergent tray, says Ian Palmer-Smith.

“Overuse of detergent or the use of an incorrect type, such as non-HE detergent (a non high energy product is more suited for older top-loading machines), in modern machines can also contribute to the issue by creating excessive suds, leading to foam overflow from the tray.”

“Other contributing factors include low water pressure or uneven water flow, which can prevent the drawer from flushing cleanly and cause water to spill forward," he adds, "as well as clogged spray jets that misdirect water towards the front of the dispenser.”

Shop these tools to fix washing machine tray issues

Cleaning the dispenser tray

If you have identified the leak is down to a dirty dispenser tray, cleaning it is an easy job and starts with you removing the detergent drawer and drawer compartment. Take a look at your instruction manual if it doesn't come out easily as there may be a certain method to follow for your particular machine.

Michael Forbes, lead product trainer at AEG, shares what to do next. “Warm water and a soft brush are usually enough to clear away detergent build-up.” To help keep it free from limescale, he also suggests you, "regularly run a maintenance wash using a dedicated washing machine cleaner, particularly in hard water areas.”

Keen to prevent the problem reoccurring? “Using the correct amount of detergent for the size of the load and your local water hardness is an important part of keeping your washing machine running efficiently,” advises Michael.

Even if the problem lies elsewhere, it's worth doing this job as well as any others you need to do to stop the leak.

Removing and cleaning a blocked dispenser hose

Before I started removing parts, I thought I'd try pouring hot water down the dispenser hose, combined with pushing a flexible pipe cleaner along the inside. This may work for you, but didn't for me as the blockage turned out to be caused by bits of foam lodged inside, so I had no choice but to access the innards of the washing machine.

Here's the steps I took to remove, clean and re-attach the hose.

1. Unplug from power and move

The first step was to switch off and unplug the washing machine before I did anything else. Safety first. Most washing machines also don’t sit out in the open, so, like me, you’ll need to drag it out to access the top cover. Instead of stretching the drain hose and risking damage, I simply put the end of mine into a bucket so the water didn't go on the floor.

2. Remove the top

The top or lid of a washing machine is typically held in place by a couple of Philips screws at the back of the machine. Undo these with an appropriate screwdriver and place them in a container. Slide off the top to see inside the machine.

3. Access the dispenser hose

To access the dispenser hose, you’ll need to undo the screws that hold the detergent tray in place (again, place the screws in the container you have to hand for this reason).

Now manoeuvre the tray to access the dispenser hose. You might also need to remove the water pipes on the back of the tray. I didn’t have to do this, but if you do, the holding clips are typically removed by pushing them together by hand.

4. Remove the dispenser hose

My dispenser hose is attached to the underside of the detergent tray so I unclipped it, pulled off the hose and moved the tray out of the way. You'll then need to remove the bottom of the dispenser hose. I needed a small spanner to loosen the clip holding it in place. Put the clip with the screws you've put to one side so you don't lose it.

Another quick tip is that if a clip is difficult to squeeze together, use a pair of pliers to make the job easier.

5. Clean hose and replace

Next, take the hose and remove any debris by hand. Mine was full of bits from foam padding that had broken up in the wash. However, generally, the blockage will be from a buildup of detergent. If this is the case, squeeze the hose to break up the detergent, then rinse through with warm water until it runs clear.

Now comes the fun part. Replace the dispenser hose and make sure any clips are in place. One option I often do is to take pictures of the removal and unclipping process to help your remember how the parts were fitted.

Also remember that he dispenser hose needs to be secure when you re-attach it otherwise, you'll be coming back to do the job again. Make sure you attach any pipes to the back of the detergent tray and put the tray back in place. Finally, secure the detergent tray and lid with the screws you put to one side.

Before you start the machine, make sure to check and clean the washing machine filter, as this could well have debris inside as well – mine did.

Where do you keep your washing machine? Could it be time to move it? Check out our utility rooms guide and small utility room ideas to make the most of your space. Or, how about an upstairs laundry room? It's becoming more popular with home renovators and it's easy to understand why once you look into it.

A cordless drill and DIY go hand in hand, but there will be a time when even the best cordless drill simply doesn’t have the power to cope with a project. That’s when it's time to call in an SDS drill. This boasts what is known as a Slotted Drive System (hence the SDS moniker), which works differently from a standard cordless/corded drill with a grip chuck.

To keep it simple, it uses a different type of drill bit that gives the drill more hammer action. Making it ideal for heavy-duty tasks that a standard drill can’t handle.

Like most Black + Decker tools, this SDS hammer drill is aimed at DIYers and not professionals. So how would it tackle the DIY jobs I had lined up? Read on to find out.

Specification

• Motor: 650W
• Impact energy: 1.4J
• Cord length: 2 metres
• Weight: 2.3kg
• Chuck capacity: 2mm-13mm
• Chuck type: SDS+
• Guarantee: 2 years
• Features: 1 x keyed chuck, 8mm SDS-PLUS bit, 1 x 6mm SDS-PLUS bit, 1 x adjustable and removable side handle, Depth stop, 3 x drilling and hammer modes.

First impressions

The unboxing of a power tool is always a highlight for me, but it didn’t take long with this Black & Decker BEHS01 hammer drill. The drill itself sits in the box, no plastic wrap, along with a handle, gauge stop and a small cardboard box containing a drill chuck and SDS+ drill bits. From an environmental perspective (which, in my opinion, matters), there is little packaging to get rid of, and what little there is is 100% recyclable and chlorine-free.

The lack of a hard case or carry case is a minus point. All my other Black & Decker tools have always come with at least a carry bag. I’ve noted that some sellers show the drill with a carry case, but I’ve not seen one that actually comes with one. A shame as I would have liked a hard carry case.

The Black & Decker BEHS01 is weighty, but in SDS drill terms, it is relatively lightweight. It is well-balanced and has a soft-grip handle that holds the drill firmly in the hand. Other notable features are the thick 2m cord (generally means more power), the mode selector that locks into place (I liked that), a reverse switch, and a small mystery button, which I suspected would be a power lock button, but we will find out later. Overall, I liked what I saw.

Set up

A corded drill like the Black & Decker BEHS01, means you don’t have to worry about charging up a battery before you can get started. One less step in the setup process. And, as it comes with a UK plug you can plug it in straight away, hit the trigger, feel the power, and appreciate the noise.

Like most drills, there are three modes on the Black & Decker BEHS01. You’ve got drill, drill and hammer and hammer. You simply need to choose the one most appropriate for the job. The selector is a decent size, and operation is easy. A push button releases the selector and locks it in place when you reach your chosen mode. For me, I liked the added extra peace of mind.

Elsewhere, the keyless chuck is a breeze to use. Pull back the sleeve, insert your bit, and you are ready to go. It's the same process to release it. And let's not forget the side handle included to help steady the drill. This fits behind the chuck and can be placed in your favoured position thanks to the inbuilt notches. A small plastic nut tightens the handle in position, ready for action.

Finally, an interesting addition was the chuck adaptor for use with standard drill bits. I can see that Black + Decker are trying to add value and purpose, but I’ve already got my newly acquired Einhell cordless drill that does what I want so wasn't sure if this was necessary.

It does mean you can get extra power without having to splash out on SDS-friendly drill bits, but it looked awkward, and I just wasn’t sure about it.

Performance

The Black + Decker BEHS01 came with a couple of 6mm and 8mm SDS drill bits, which immediately limited how I could use it. So I invested in this 3-piece Erbauer SDS Plus Shank Chisel Set from Screwfix to test the Black + Decker BEHS01 more thoroughly. This included a 250 mm point chisel and 2 x flat chisels (20 x 250 mm and 40 x 250 mm).

To kick off testing, I decided to use my new chisel bits to break up some large blocks of concrete that I had dug out of the ground a while ago. I originally tried smashing them up with a lump hammer and a cold chisel, but without much success.

The mystery button turned out to be a lock button, which I decided to call into action straightaway. The hammer mode and the smaller chisel did a good job of breaking off chunks. It still took me a good 15 minutes to break up one large piece of concrete, but with no need to worry about swapping batteries, the drill didn’t miss a beat. A return visit a couple of days later got the same results on the remaining blocks.

Next, it was time to try the supplied drill bits. First up was drilling into concrete, which it handled with ease. Next, it was drilling into exterior brickwork for hooks, an absolute breeze. Then it was indoors to drill into walls in order to put up some shelf brackets; it couldn’t have been easier. All the masonry I tried, the drill powered through.

Next, it was back to the chisels and tile removal. I had two layers of tile on tile to tackle and the first layer came off pretty easily, but the original layer (stuck to the wall) was more challenging. But again, the Black + Decker BEHS01 was up to the task.

The final test was using the keyed chuck with standard drill bits. While it looked and felt awkward, (and I’m not a fan of keyed chucks, especially when I’ve lost the key), it worked fine and gave extra power where needed. In some cases, too much power compared to my trusty cordless drill.

The one issue I had with the Black + Decker BEHS01 was the attachable side handle. It was easy to fit, but no matter how much I tightened it, it still slipped off when tackling tougher tasks. For lighter tasks, I did however get to use the handy depth gauge that slips into the handle.

Who shoud buy it?

The Black + Decker BEHS01 is a great choice for DIYers who need extra power for projects that their cordless drill simply can’t handle. It's easy to struggle through using a cordless drill when it doesn’t quite have the power you need, but this isn’t good for your cordless drill and will shorten its working life.

An SDS type of drill is a smart addition for DIYers, and the Black + Decker BEHS01 is an affordable, easy-to-use tool that provides enough power to tackle most home DIY and home renovation projects. All you need to do is fit your chosen SDS bit, choose your mode and hit the power trigger.

Final verdict

I’d definitely recommend the Black & Decker BEHS01 to any DIYer who likes tackling lightweight demolition and drilling masonry jobs, and needs a bit more power than their favourite cordless drill offers. This is a great starting point for anyone who doesn’t own an SDS drill, or an occasional DIYer who wants to replace an old, worn-out drill.

The addition of the keyed chuck seems like an odd choice, but it works and lets your SDS drill double as an everyday drill that uses standard drill bits. Personally, I prefer to use my Einhell cordless drill for standard drilling and an SDS drill when a project calls for the extra power.

I would have liked to see at least a couple of chisel bits and a carry bag or hard case included, especially as it is aimed at DIYers. I think this would have made it the complete package. However, these are small points as you are getting an affordable SDS drill that will get stuff done, in fact, almost anything a DIYer will tackle.

Whenever you buy one of the best cordless drills, you’re often also paying for the potential to use the same battery and charger with other tools from the maker’s range. This Makita bundle gets you off to a flying start, giving you the DTD157 impact driver along with the DHP490 combi drill in a two-piece combo kit.

The two tools offer wide-ranging drilling and driving capabilities. With the DHP490 combi drill, you get drill, hammer drill and screwdriver modes, plus two gears, a variable speed trigger and torque up to 65Nm. Meanwhile, the DTD157 impact driver has a hex. 1/4" drive shank and can turn a wide range of machine screws and bolts, with hard impact and soft impact modes ranging up to a mighty 140Nm of torque. Both tools boast a brushless motor and Makita’s famously on-point ergonomics.

In theory, this two-in-one combo should therefore offer the best value for money, and strong performance of both tools. As an experienced DIYer, I put them both through the ropes to see if the investment was worth it.

Where to buy the Makita DLX2539ST 2-Piece Combo Kit LXT

Key specifications

• Cordless tool family: Makita LXT
• Intended uses include: drilling wood, plastic, metal and masonry; driving screws and lugs
• Battery capacity: 5.0Ah (x2)
• Voltage: 18V
• Drill speed: 0 - 500 / 1,900 min⁻¹
• Impact driver torque: 140Nm (max)

What's included

• Makita DHP490 cordless combi drill
• Makita DTD157 impact driver
• 2 x 18V, 5.0Ah lithium-ion batteries
• DC18SD battery charger
• Hard carry case

Both tools included are 18V models from Makita’s LXT range, and they can also be bought individually. The Makita DHP490Z 18V Cordless Brushless Combi Drill costs £68.50 from B&Q as a bare unit without the battery, while the Makita Impact Driver DTD157Z, also from B&Q and again as a bare unit, costs £62.99.

However, buying both tools together as the DLX2539ST kit could represent the best value, as also included in the set are two 18V, 5.0Ah lithium-ion batteries, the Makita Battery Charger LXT DC18SD (which can also charge 14.4V Makita batteries), and a slimline hardcase to store and carry the set.

How I tested

I tested the Makita DLX2539ST 2-Piece Combo Kit LXT by using it for an appropriate selection of DIY tasks, including drilling into brick and installing fixings.

1. Hammer-drilling holes in brick

Among the dozens of cordless combi drills I’ve tested, the Makita DHP490 from this kit is one of the very best at drilling into hard, dense materials like brick and breeze blocks. I’ve used many different models to drill holes in my home’s walls, which are built from very hard brick, and this has proven difficult with some drills. The DHP490 took around 30 seconds to perform the same job that demanded several minutes of struggle with competing models. My only gripe was that the chuck struggled to keep a secure hold of certain narrow drill bits.

You can see the sort of project that’s easily achievable with this drill in my article on how to hang shelves.

2. Driving screws

Both of these tools can drive screws. The DHP490 combi drill performs the task perfectly well, with its choice of 20 torque settings, two gears and the variable speed trigger collectively giving you excellent control over the force applied to the screw.

But it’s the DTD157 impact driver that really excels in this area. With a hex screwdriver bit securely installed in the collar, it turns fastenings with impressive power. I found this tool extremely helpful when working with long or stubborn screws that had proven impossible for me to turn using a screwdriver or combi drill. Just take care not to apply excessive force, as this can strip the drive on a screw – especially if the screw is relatively low-quality.

3. Drilling into wood

This is another job for the DHP490 cordless drill. I found that it worked quickly and powerfully when drilling into test pieces of hardwood and engineered board, boring neat holes with minimal effort. Where holes needed to be especially neat, I used the gear selector to choose the lower rev range for highly controlled drilling.

Ease of use

Even though this power tool kit is aimed at the more experienced end of the DIY market, it’s no more difficult to use than an equivalent set for occasional users or beginners. The controls, such as the direction selectors on both tools, and the mode selection collar on the cordless drill, work fluidly and intuitively. Charging the batteries is as easy as slotting one onto the charger.

If you’re new to using impact drivers, then you might face a slight learning curve with this component of the Makita kit. An impact driver typically has higher torque than a comparable cordless drill, which means drill bits and screws are subjected to stronger force. That’s generally a good thing, but it means you should use high-quality screws and extras such as this Makita E-12011 10 Piece Impact Black Bit Set from Amazon to minimise the risk of these components breaking, or the screws being stripped. In routine use, the DTD157 impact driver is even simpler to use than the DHP490 combi drill.

Battery performance

The Makita DLX2539ST kit never let me down in terms of battery life. Between the two included batteries you have ten amp-hours of work potential, which proved more than enough to get me through a day of DIY. I found that the included charger could recharge one of these hefty batteries within less than two hours, so there’s scope to power one of them back up during a mid-renovation meal break.

As with all lithium-ion batteries, the ones supplied with this kit will noticeably degrade after a number of years (or after sustained heavy use). You’ll maximise their good performance by following good battery maintenance practices, such as keeping the batteries charged to a moderate level and storing them at room temperature.

Who should buy it?

Clearly, this twin-set of tools is most relevant to users who will make good use of an impact driver, as well as a cordless combi drill. If you’re a keen DIYer and you often need to drive large or awkward screws, then using the impact driver will make this easier.

With this Makita bundle, you can work quickly by using the drill to make holes, and the impact driver to install fastenings into them. As there are two batteries included, you won’t even need to switch this component between actions (unless one battery is recharging).

On the other hand, I wouldn’t recommend this kit to casual DIYers who would rarely use the impact driver. If this sounds like you, then you might be better off buying the Makita DHP490SFX2 18V 1 x 3.0Ah Li-Ion LXT Brushless Cordless Combi Drill & Drill Bit Set from Screwfix that comes with the same drill, plus a high quality set of drill bits and other accessories in place of the impact driver.

Final verdict

True to form, Makita has delivered an impressive and capable power tool kit. The combi drill and the impact driver are both excellent tools in their own right, and when used together during complicated DIY projects they can bring a welcome boost in speed and convenience. Battery life and recharging are excellent, and the hard carry case is a smart and practical solution for keeping the set in good and orderly condition.

I have only a few gripes to mention – a drill chuck that’s not ideal for the narrowest drill bits, and a price that will put off some occasional DIYers – but neither is a deal breaker. The Makita DLX2539ST 2-Piece Combo Kit LXT is another powerful piece of evidence that Makita is the ultimate ‘prosumer’ brand for DIYers who are taking their home renovations seriously.

When it's time to hang that designer wallpaper you’ve had your eye on for ages, there’s guaranteed to be one obstacle with the potential to spoil a professional-looking finish – a power socket – and usually more than one.

Every home has them, so there’s no getting away from the fact that you will need to cut into your precious wallpaper when trying to paper around them.

To ensure a successful cut, you will need the right wallpaper tools and techniques, and a slow, methodical approach. Trying to rush through the process with a blunt tool will only lead to rough cuts, unsightly gaps, and the distinct possibility you’ll have to start over again. Follow this guide to make sure that doesn't happen.

Tools you’ll need to wallpaper around sockets

The right tools are essential for success when wallpapering around sockets. Nischal Pomu, Director at Platinum Paints, points out the two main factors you need to take into account.

"The main thing is to have sharp tools and take your time rather than trying to force cuts quickly,” he says, listing the following essential tools:

• Sharp snap knife - try this wolfcraft Metal Snap-Off Blade Knife from Amazon
• Wallpaper scissors - try these Harris Seriously Good Paperhanging Scissors from Amazon
• Screwdrivers
• Wallpaper smoother
• Seam roller – like this Stanley Dynagrip Soft Seam Roller from Amazon
• Spirit level or laser level
• Steel trimming edge/wallpaper guide
• Clean cloth and sponge – try the Spontex Decorators Sponge from Amazon
• Good quality adhesive suitable for the wallpaper type

How to wallpaper around sockets

1. Turn off the electricity and loosen faceplate

The key step is to switch off the electricity before you start any work. Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb, says. “I would recommend using a voltage tester afterwards to fully ensure that the socket is dead.” Alternatively, plug in a phone charger or a lamp to check if the socket is live.

Once you are sure the power is no longer live, “carefully unscrew the socket so that it is a few millimetres away from the wall," says Mark.

2. Hang the wallpaper

Now you can start to hang wallpaper. I always make sure the strip of wallpaper fully covers a socket to ensure a clean finish. Measure up before you start wallpapering to ensure you get a drop in the right place. Paste the paper, or wall, and hang. “Smooth out the wallpaper as normal," says Mark, "and allow it to fully cover the socket’s area.”

3. Locate socket and cut wallpaper

Once the paper is hung, the next step is to locate the socket. “Gently feel for the edges of the socket through the wallpaper,” says Mark, making sure you locate the middle of the socket and its corners.

Using a sharp knife, "cut an X shape diagonally from corner to corner across the centre of the socket," he suggests.

Alternatively, cut from the middle to the edges using wallpaper scissors. This is less likely to mark the face of the socket and might be a good idea if you have a metallic or painted finish.

4. Trim the excess

With your cuts in place, you will have four flaps of wallpaper. Get a pair of wallpaper scissors and start trimming. “Carefully trim the flaps back towards the edge of the socket, making sure to leave enough paper to neatly tuck behind the faceplate," says Mark, recommending you leave around 5mm to be sure.

5. Finish up

With the wallpaper trimmed, it's time to finish the job. “Use a wallpaper smoother to flatten the wallpaper around the socket," says Mark, "making sure to remove any air bubbles.”

However, for safety reasons, be careful not to squeeze any excess paste behind the faceplate. Give it a wipe if needed, re-tighten the faceplate and wipe down the wall and socket with a dry microfibre cloth such as these MR.SIGA Microfiber Cleaning Cloths from Amazon. Check there’s no excess paste left before you consider using the socket again.

Common mistakes to avoid when wallpapering around sockets

1. Overcutting

There is nothing more annoying than cutting away too much wallpaper and having to start again. "The biggest mistake DIYers make is overcutting too early," warns Nischal Pomu. "If you remove too much wallpaper around the socket, gaps can remain visible permanently. It’s always better to trim smaller amounts gradually," he says to prevent it from happening.

2. Using blunt blades

“I would recommend always using a sharp blade, as even the highest quality wallpaper can snag or tear if the knife isn’t incredibly sharp," advises Mark Irving. “Change the blade every few cuts, if possible," he adds, "to ensure that you are accurate with every try.”

3. Using stiff wallpaper

If you are working in awkward areas with stiff wallpaper, it's more prone to tearing, which can be hard to hide. A simple trick is to use a hairdryer, suggests Mark Irving, “Warming up any stiff wallpaper using a hairdryer can help the paper to flex around any awkward spaces.”

4. Ending up with uneven patterns

Hanging patterned wallpaper adds another level of difficulty to wallpapering around a socket. Get it wrong, and you’ll waste wallpaper and take more time. “For patterned wallpaper, it helps to dry-position the sheet beforehand so important parts of the pattern do not end awkwardly through sockets or light switches,” advises Nischal Pomu. This will help the wallpaper line up with adjacent sheets.

FAQs

Should I cover sockets before wallpapering?

“If the electricity has been safely isolated and the faceplate slightly loosened, you generally don’t need to fully wrap or cover the socket itself,” says Nischal Pomu.

However, it's never a bad idea to protect sockets against paste or moisture, especially if you're using traditional wallpaper paste. “Although a small amount of paste isn’t particularly a problem," says Mark Irving, "any moisture that gets into the plug holes or sockets could be very dangerous.”

There are a couple of options you can use to protect a socket. “Use painter’s tape over any openings," says Mark, noting how, "it is also possible to use cling film lightly wrapped around the socket, which will help to keep everything protected.”

Another way to prevent paste from seeping behind a loose faceplate, says Mark, :"is to carefully use a microfibre cloth behind a loose faceplate to catch any excess.”

The most simple and preventative method is to avoid overloading the wallpaper with paste around sockets in the first place. ”Instead, use a thin coat to reduce any mess," he advises.

How long before I can switch the electricity back on?

Electrical outlets and moisture don’t mix well. However, Nischal Pomu says you can switch the electricity back on almost immediately. “In most cases, once the wallpaper has been fitted, trimmed cleanly, and any obvious moisture around the socket has been wiped away properly, the electricity can usually be switched back on safely.

“You generally do not need to wait for the wallpaper paste to fully dry overnight before restoring power," he adds, "providing the socket area itself is clean, dry, and not saturated with adhesive.”

However, if there is excessive paste or moisture around the socket, it's best to leave it for a few hours. “If there’s any uncertainty around moisture entering the electrical fitting, it’s always safer to allow additional drying time or seek advice from a qualified electrician before switching the power back on," confirms Nischal.

Personally, I leave it for at least three or four hours to be safe. Even if I’ve covered a socket, I remove the covering and wipe it dry, but still leave it for an hour to be on the safe side.

If you don’t need the socket because you aren't living in your property while renovating or extending it, you can of course leave it longer. I always err on the side of caution when working with electricity, after having a few unwanted incidents.

When wallpapering around sockets, you need to get your cuts right. But getting this wrong isn’t the only wallpapering mistakes you can make. Try these wallpaper hacks to help avoid issues when wallpapering your home.

If you're asking should you wallpaper over damp, the most obvious and simple answer is no. Why would you? If you have a recurring damp issue, then wallpapering over it will rarely solve the problem. However, it's not always that straightforward.

Covering a constant source of damp will of course only make the problem worse. However, if you have dealt with the issue, or it's only an infrequent visitor and you know why, then knowing how to wallpaper the damp area correctly could be successful.

Here, we explore the reasons for wallpapering over damp areas, and the specialist products and tools you’ll need to ensure your efforts aren't in vain.

Why you shouldn't wallpaper over damp

Wallpapering directly over damp surfaces is generally not recommended, as Nischal Pomu, director at Platinum Paints, notes. “In most cases, I would say no, not until the cause of the damp has been properly identified and resolved. Wallpapering over active damp usually only hides the issue temporarily.”

George Edwards, managing director of Timberwise, shares the issues that can arise if you do wallpaper over damp.

“You will be masking a problem that will only get worse," he warns. “Moisture will be trapped behind the paper, and mould will grow in the dark between the paper and the walls.” This can lead to serious issues, especially if the damp is constant.

“Within weeks or months, you’ll see patches bleeding through and may notice a musty smell,” explains George. "You will have to strip the damaged wallpaper, and you will be back to square one, except it will be worse.”

“Any ongoing rising damp, penetrating damp, or constant moisture problems should always be fixed before decorating,” agrees Nischal.

Reasons why wallpapering over damp could be an option

Once damp has seeped into walls and ceilings, it can cause cracks, defects and discolouration, and this may make wallpapering seem like a good idea rather than painting over damp.

“A lot of homeowners wallpaper over damp mainly for cosmetic reasons," agrees Nischal Pomu. "Damp staining, hairline cracking, and uneven surfaces can make a room look tired very quickly, so wallpaper is sometimes seen as a quicker way to improve appearance without major repair work.”

However, wallpapering over damp is typically a temporary fix while the issue is being investigated. “The problem is that wallpaper rarely solves damp itself; it usually only hides the symptoms for a period of time," notes Nischal.

That said, “there are situations where wallpapering can still work once the wall has stabilised and dried out,” he continues. “For example, an old chimney breast may leave historic staining after the original issue has already been repaired. In those cases, after proper stain blocking and preparation, wallpaper can sometimes be used successfully.”

Wallpapering can also be an inexpensive option compared to removing any plaster, dealing with the issue and getting the wall/ceiling re-plastered. Keeping your house temperature at the right level can also be a way to help prevent the damp returning once the main problem has been resolved.

Shop these tools to wallpaper over damp

Best wallpaper for damp walls

If you have got walls that have suffered from damp, or are currently suffering from it, you certainly don’t want to use standard wallpaper when papering over damp. Alisdair Simpson, managing director at Retford Wallcoverings Limited explains why.

“Standard pulp-based wallpapers are generally unsuitable for damp-affected walls, as continual moisture exposure can cause the material to break down, often leading to staining, mould growth and adhesion failure.”

If you are going to wallpaper over damp areas, you will need to use a specific type of wallpaper to address the issue. “Specialist systems such as Wallrock Dampstop Thermic are designed to help block the appearance of penetrating damp and associated staining," explains Alisdair, "whilst creating a durable surface suitable for further decoration using paste-the-wall lining papers on top.

“When using Wallrock Dampstop Thermic, it is particularly important that dimensionally stable PTW wallcoverings are used, as traditional wallpapers may be more susceptible to movement and adhesion issues over the non-porous metallic surface.”

However, once the Wallrock system is in place, “standard wallpaper can be used if you’ve covered the area with damp-proof foil and/or thermal lining paper,” says Alasdair.

Wallpapering over damp with Wallrock Dampstop

If you are going to wallpaper over damp with the Wallrock Dampstop system, there is a specific process to follow advises Alisdair Simpson.

“Wallrock Dampstop Thermic is applied directly to the wall using Wallrock Dampstop Thermic Adhesive, with the grey polypropylene surface facing the wall.” But before you start, "the wall should first be cleaned, repaired and primed where necessary," notes Alisdair.

“Once dry, the metallic surface can either be left exposed to help reflect heat back into the room – making it particularly useful behind radiators,” he shares. However, the more common option is to cover it.

“Overhang with dimensionally stable PTW lining papers such as this Wallrock Fibreliner from Amazon, insulating wallcoverings such as this Wallrock Thermal Liner from Amazon, or paste the wall decorative wallpaper,” suggests Alasdair.

A key component of a successful job is the right adhesive. “For best performance, Wallrock Dampstop Thermic Adhesive should continue to be used for all subsequent papers applied on top," he notes.

However, “as with any damp-related issue, the underlying cause of the moisture should always be properly identified and resolved alongside any cosmetic treatment,” Alisdair concludes.

FAQs

Will PVA seal a damp wall?

PVA glue is often suggested as a cost-effective sealant, but in damp conditions, it's not a wise idea, explains Nischal Pomu. “PVA is not really designed to solve damp problems. In fact, sealing moisture into a wall can sometimes make issues worse over time because the wall cannot breathe properly.”

“PVA breaks down on contact with damp, becomes sticky and then causes plaster and paint to fail,” adds George Edwards.

Can I use a dehumidifier to help remove damp from walls?

The best dehumidifiers can help combat damp confirms Nischal Pomu. “A dehumidifier can definitely help reduce moisture levels within a room and speed up drying conditions, especially after condensation or minor humidity-related issues.”

However, they are not the solution to persistent damp problems, he continues. “If the damp is being caused by an ongoing issue such as rising damp, leaking gutters, failed pointing, plumbing leaks, or penetrating moisture, a dehumidifier alone will not fully solve the problem.

“It may improve the symptoms temporarily, but the source still needs to be repaired properly for a long-term solution," says Nischal.

Damp can strike anywhere and spoil walls and ceilings in any room. Make sure you know exactly how to treat damp in older houses before you start on any wallpapering project. Then, once the correct base layer has been applied, make sure you avoid these wallpapering mistakes when applying the top and final wallpaper layer.

Despite its uninspiring name and haphazard appearance, there is much more to OSB than meets the eye. It is in fact a versatile timber-based board suitable for a wide range of DIY and home renovation projects.

It's commonly used as an alternative to plywood and, in some cases, as a plasterboard alternative, adding an industrial aesthetic to interior design projects. While it could be argued that it's less visually appealing, its composition still makes it a very attractive option for many DIY builds where aesthetics aren’t the number one priority.

Here, we delve into where it can be used, its benefits and drawbacks, and how much you can expect to pay.

What does OSB stand for?

OSB stands for Oriented Strand Board. Paul Kerr, building specialist at Beatsons, explains its makeup. “It's basically a wood panel made by heat pressing wood strands with glue.”

Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb, explains what makes it appropriate for use in a variety of DIY projects. “The boards are strong and durable, which means they are commonly used for construction projects.”

Shop OSB board and tools to protect it

Popular uses for OSB

OSB is a popular choice for a lot of DIY and home renovation projects, but it's typically used inside the home explains Mark Irving. “OSB is most commonly used in internal construction projects, as it is incredibly strong and durable. Typically, it will be used for wall sheathing, roofing, loft boarding and site hoarding.

“OSB can also be used for subfloors, partition walls, and shelving" he adds, "as it provides a solid, stable surface.”

OSB is rarely used for work outside the home notes Paul Kerr, “as the boards are usually not weatherproof, and unless treated specifically, should not be used for external projects.”

If however the boards are protected or treated, they can be used on a range of projects, continues Mark. “OSB can be suitable for large-scale building projects such as timber-frame construction, sheds and DIY renovations.”

And, while it's often covered over, it can also be left exposed says Paul. “You sometimes see the odd interior design project using OSB for rustic shelving and tables,” he agrees. It’s also sometimes left bare on walls to create a more industrial aesthetic.

Pros and cons of OSB

Mark Irving reveals the key benefits and drawbacks of OSB:

What sizes does it come in and how much does OSB cost?

As well as its strength and durability, there’s another reason why it's so attractive for DIYers and that's the cost. However, the price is determined by several factors, including size, thickness, and grade.

“OSB is one of the more affordable options for construction, with prices ranging between £15 and £35 per sheet,” says Mark Irving.

“The industry standard is 2400mm x 1200mm, and the thickness varies from 9mm up to 18mm," expands Paul Kerr. “The thinnest OSBs usually start from around £10, and usually don't sell for more than £25.”

As an example of price, this OSB 3 OSB 2440mm x 1220mm x 9mm from B&Q sells for just under £20. The smallest size sells for around £11. This 18mm OSB 3 OSB 2440mm x 1220mm x 18mm from B&Q sells for £24.

The cost of OSB is also why it's considered an attractive alternative to plywood in certain situations, continues Mark.

“Typically, OSB is cheaper, which makes it the ideal choice for structural applications where the appearance of the project is less important than the budget or the performance.“

“It's usually about 20% cheaper than a plywood board," adds Paul, "which is the reason why it's taken over as the most popular board for internal framing work.”

FAQs

Should I use nails or screws to fit OSB?

Both nails and screws can be used to install OSB. Which one you use can depend on the project. If installing OSB on internal walls, ceilings, and floors, screws are a popular choice because they are much easier to remove if you need to replace any OSB. Screws will also pull OSB tight against any frame and hold well.

These Single Thread Countersunk Pozi Screws from Toolstation will do the job. The screw length should be approximately twice the OSB thickness. If you are using 18mm OSB, 40mm or 60mm screws will suffice.

Nails are quicker to install, especially with a nail gun, and are often used for fixing to exterior framing as they offer more give.

If using nails, galvanised or stainless-steel ring-shank nails are recommended. Galvanised nails such as these Tacwise Extra Galvanised Framing Nails from Amazon are good for general DIY projects, as long as they aren’t regularly exposed to moisture.

Can I paint or tile directly onto OSB?

Yes to painting, no to tiling.

OSB is porous, which means it absorbs a lot of liquid. If you are going to paint OSB, you will need to start with a primer/sealer, such as this Zinsser B-I-N from Screwfix, to seal the surface and create a stable base for subsequent coats of paint.

When it comes to tiling, it's important to know that the board will absorb the moisture if you apply the tile adhesive directly to the board, causing it to fail. Tiles can fall off walls or start to shift and crack. However, it can be used as a substrate for tiles, provided you install a cement backer board (such as this HardieBacker 6mm Backerboard from B&Q) over the OSB.

You’ll also need to make sure that the OSB is secure and doesn’t flex. This is more applicable to floors than walls or ceilings. If it does, you’ll end up with adhesion issues.

How long does OSB last?

It depends very much on its usage. If installed correctly and protected, e.g., with wall sheathing, it can last for 20+ years. However, if left unprotected and exposed, it will depend on the environment. Internally, it can last for years, as long as it is not exposed to moisture.

If used externally and left exposed to the elements, OSB will be lucky to last a year. However, if well protected, with a sealant such as Siramico Coatings Liquid Rubber Roof Coating from Amazon, it can easily last five years. To extend its lifespan, make sure to seal the edges and reapply any sealant/paint every 3-5 years.

OSB is a multi-talented board; not only can it be used on its own, but it is also part of SIPs (structural insulated panels), which are a popular product for building extensions and homes.

Is skimming over wallpaper wise? While it might not always seem like the most obvious choice, and sometimes it's not, remember that with any DIY or home improvement project, there’s rarely just one perfect solution. Sometimes, skimming over wallpaper really can be the best option.

However, getting your preparation correct is crucial to success. Skip past this stage, and it's almost pointless plastering a wall. The plaster will fail to adhere to the surface, and it won’t be long before it starts to crack and fall away from the wall or ceiling.

Here, the pros reveal when it's a wise choice to skim over wallpaper, and how to prep well to ensure your efforts aren't in vain.

Should you skim over wallpaper?

The simple answer is you can do it, but it's rarely the recommended option. It's more of a last resort.

Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements, shares his thoughts. “You can, but honestly, I wouldn’t recommend it most of the time. After 15 years doing this kind of work, I’ve seen people try it again and again – and I’ve seen it fail just as often.

“Plaster requires a stable, porous surface to adhere properly, which wallpaper doesn’t provide," he explains. This means a poor skim coat can lead to more work later. “If it’s not done correctly, you might have to redo everything in six months," warns Angelo.

Shop these tools for skimming over wallpaper

Reasons when skimming over wallpaper is a good idea

While skimming over wallpaper isn’t a first choice, there are reasons why you might need to. “If you’ve got only one layer of paper, it’s stuck down well, and the edges aren’t lifting, and if the customer’s desperate for a quick fix, skimming over wallpaper can make sense,” says Angelo Patrizi, also citing the following additional reasons why you might find it a suitable option.

• To keep the wall intact – “Usually it’s about what’s underneath," says Angelo. "In older homes, the wallpaper sometimes holds the wall together, and stripping it can turn into a nightmare."
• To get rid of textures and imperfections – Skimming over wallpaper can also saves the hassle of removing textured wallpaper and treating any imperfections in a wall. Prep properly, and all these issues can disappear behind a skim of plaster.
• It can be quicker and easier – If you have stubborn wallpaper that will take a lot of steaming and scraping to remove the wallpaper, then a skim coat is a much quicker and easier alternative.

Can I skim over any type of wallpaper?

Certain types of wallpaper work much better than others for being hidden underneath a skim coat. “Heavy lining paper is easiest as it gives a decent grip for the plaster. Standard printed wallpaper works if it’s properly glued down,” shares Angelo Patrizi.

However, other types of wallpaper are to be avoided, he warns. “Vinyl wallpaper is a lost cause; plaster just won’t stick to its non-porous surface. Anaglypta or any heavy textured wallpaper – forget it. The texture shows through, adhesion is unreliable, and the finished look is awful once painted.”

Steps for prepping wallpaper for skimming

If you decide to go ahead and skim over wallpaper, you need to get your preparation right. The more time spent on preparation, the better the outcome. Scott Godfrey, construction trade consultant for Black Hammer, shares where to start.

“Start by proving the wallpaper is genuinely sound. Pick an inconspicuous corner or seam and try to lift it. If it wants to come away with light effort, it needs stripping rather than skimming,” he says.

However, if it is a suitable candidate for skimming. Follow these steps for the best end result.

1. Secure loose sections

“Walk the wall and press along joints and overlaps," says Scott. "Any loose seam should be re-adhered and flattened before going further. Next, cut out any blisters and soft bubbles back to firm edges so you're not trapping a void under plaster.”

2. Clean surface

Next you need to ensure the surface is completely clean. “Get rid of any surface contamination like grease or polish residue with a suitable degreaser and allow it to dry," advises Scott. "Lightly sand the surface to knock back any sheen and high spots, as a slightly dulled surface is easier to bond to than a slick one.”

3. Prime surface

This is the key step to providing a proper bonding surface so the plaster does not soak in, re-wet the paste, or slide off.

“Use a problem-surface sealer or grit-bonding primer (such as this Sika Febond Blue Grit Plasterers Grip Coat from Screwfix) that is rated for difficult backgrounds like wallpaper," explains Scott. "The aim is to lock down the paper face and paste, and also give the skim coat a consistent key.”

4. Add skim coat

After priming, you then need to reinforce any weak lines. "Bed scrim tape over wallpaper seams and any cracks in the substrate that are visible or suspected" recommends Scott, "then apply plaster in two thin coats, rather than trying to cover everything in one heavy pass.

“Keeping coats tight reduces the amount of water sitting on the wall and reduces the load while the plaster is green, which is when failure often starts,” he explains.

To apply the skim coat, use a textured roller, such as the ROLLINGDOG 9 Inch Drywall Skimming Roller from Amazon, and a skimming blade.

5 . Dry naturally

“Finally, allow steady drying with gentle ventilation rather than forcing heat," advises Scott. "Rapid drying can encourage cracking, especially where wallpaper joints sit beneath the finish,” he warns.

Following this final step is important if you want to ensure a secure finish of skim to wallpaper.

FAQs

Will it be as good a finish as skimming a bare wall?

“It will never be as stable as skimming over a properly prepped wall," says Angelo Patrizi, "but if you do everything right, it can last years. However, it’s always weaker than starting afresh.”

Walls aren’t the only surface where you can skim over wallpaper; wallpapered ceilings can be tackled in the same way, but proceed with caution, says Angelo.

“Ceilings are a whole different story; if the bond fails there, gravity takes over, and you end up with a disaster," he warns. “I’m much more cautious about skimming ceilings than walls. On walls, you’ve got a little more wiggle room.

“Any movement or damp issue behind the skim on walls or ceilings will cause trouble sooner or later,” he adds, so it's vital to make sure any prep is done thoroughly.

What can go wrong?

In the short term, the skim can start to fail almost immediately, shares Angelo Patrizi. “The usual problem is the skim coming away from the wallpaper as it dries, because the paper shifted or wasn’t stuck down properly.” This can be dangerous and messy, particularly on a skimmed ceiling.

“Ceilings are risky; sections can fall, and that’s a nightmare to clean up," advises Angelo, adding the other issues that can occur include, “seeing bubbles appear from trapped moisture, and hollow spots where the plaster never got a good grip.”

Skimming can also trap moisture, leading to long-term issues, including damp patches that can cause mould growth and staining. Eventually, this can lead to plaster failure.

“If you ever need to redo the wall, you're also dealing with a fused mess of plaster and paper," says Angelo. "It’s much harder to strip back. Skipping steps at the start usually means triple the work later,” he concludes.

Skimming over wallpaper will leave you with a smooth, smart wall, ideal for a variety of decorating options, but you will still need to prep the plaster before painting or re-wallpapering. Check our guides on wallpapering over new plaster and painting new plaster to get it right.

When you enter a colour drenched room, you’ll know about it, as the walls, ceiling, woodwork and perhaps other features will all be painted in the same hue. For immersive impact, this decorating technique is a popular paint trend and one that stands the test of time.

Whether you’ve visited a stately home with a colour drenched interior, or you’re aware of the cost and effort savings that come with this technique, you may be curious about how to colour drench a room in your own home. After all, as well as simplifying painting, there’s also a design incentive for colour drenching. When done effectively in a suitable space, this technique can add character, impact, and a point of distinction from the rest of the property.

If you’re in need of guidance on how to colour drench your space, find out how I colour drenched my spare room, along with the products I used to achieve the look.

Things to consider before you start

Naturally, the key consideration before colour-drenching a room is deciding which colour you’ll paint it. A light or moderately light shade of paint can make a room feel airy and spacious, while darker tones are often cosy, or even dramatic.

“Colour drenching is one of the most liberating decorating techniques because it simplifies the process,” says Lauren Shaw, head of marketing for DIY at Harris. “Working with a single colour across all surfaces – including walls, ceiling, woodwork, skirting and radiators – removes many of the usual headaches around cutting in between contrasting areas."

However, choosing the right paint colour is key. “Test your colour on every surface before committing,”advises Lauren. “Paint behaves differently on a ceiling versus a flat wall, and versus a primed door, and a shade can look very different once it’s on all surfaces. So, always test samples in situ, in both natural and artificial light.”

You might also consider including a few pops of a different colour in the space using the 'peek-a-boo' paint trend. This arguably detracts a little from the colour drench effect, but in my case, we thought that it broke up the look of the space nicely. Leaning into a contrast colour, we had our radiator powder-coated yellow at a local motorcycle respraying shop (some of these businesses will paint all sorts of metal objects).

It’s also well worth mulling over whether colour drenching is the right approach to decorating a particular room, as it may suit some spaces better than others. “Colour drenching is more powerful in smaller or awkward spaces, like hallways, cloakrooms and compact bedrooms,” Lauren advises.

Patrick O’Donnell, a brand ambassador for Farrow & Ball, recommends using colour drenching in spaces that are rich in architectural detail. “Colour drenching can be a useful tool when your room has a lot of decorative embellishments such as plasterwork detailing or panelling on walls,” he says. “It allows these details to register beautifully, without the need to pick them out in a separate colour to enhance them.”

What I used to colour drench my spare room

How to colour-drench a room: step-by-step

1. Select a colour drench-suitable paint

“One area where colour drenching does require extra care is paint finish selection,” says Lauren Shaw. “Using a single flat emulsion on every surface is one approach and works well for a solid, matte look. But for woodwork and high-traffic areas, you may prefer to introduce a slightly different sheen – eggshell or satin – to add durability and a subtle texture, while keeping the colour consistent.”

For our project, we used Farrow & Ball’s ‘Arsenic’ paint colour in a ‘Dead Flat’ finish, which is suitable for coating a wide range of surfaces including walls, woodwork and radiators. This helped to create a consistent look, while minimising cost and hassle.

2. Prep the walls and ceiling with undercoat

Apply one or two coats of primer to the walls and ceilings. If you’re painting over fresh plaster, you might need to decant some of the primer into a bucket and water it down slightly for the first application. This creates a ‘mist coat’ that should adhere successfully to ‘thirsty’ plaster.

Some modern paints are self-priming. If you’re using a self-priming paint to create the final look of your colour-drenched room, you might be able to skip this step.

3. Prep and undercoat the woodwork

First, sand the woodwork throughout the room – including skirting boards and architraves – as this will help paint adhere to the wood. Apply knotting solution to any knots in the wood (this limits sap bleed), and use wood filler to fill any gaps or blemishes.

Using a tube of caulk and a skeleton gun, caulk along edges of woodwork where it meets a wall or ceiling. Remove excess caulk with damp cloth while you work (and before the caulk sets).

Finally, undercoat the woodwork as required. Protect your floor using painter’s tape and/or dust sheets, and try not to overload your paintbrush.

Products to prepare your room for colour drenching

4. Paint the room with your top colour

It’s then time to bring your colour-drenched vision to life with your top colour. Begin with the corners of the room where walls and ceiling meet, then paint the flat expanses.

“We’d always recommend starting with painting the ceiling, moving to the walls and finishing with woodwork and any smaller details,” says Lauren Shaw. “This way, any paint spatter or drips are painted over as you work down the room.” As you can see in the photos, we used paintbrushes as we like a brushed finish in our house, but you could use a roller to speed up the process.

Use painter’s tape to avoid lapping paint onto protruding features such as plug sockets, switches and light fittings, and take care over painting the detail on woodwork, as this can easily become hard to see in a colour-drenched room. For this, use a finer paintbrush, and avoid loading the bristles with too much paint.

FAQs

Is colour drenching a traditional technique?

“Colour drenching has had an editorial drive for the last three years in the interiors press, but versions of ‘colour drenching’ have been used since the 18th century,” says Patrick O’Donnell.

“Back then, great houses would often paint large halls in versions of stone shades creating very subtle differences, where now, due to the variety of colours available, any colour can be used.”

The term ‘colour drenching’ originated much more recently. Some publications have stated that the term was first used in 2022, but Google Trends data shows that people were researching colour drenching as early as 2021.

Is colour drenching just a trend?

There’s no doubt that colour drenching has been especially popular in recent years. Some homeowners might fairly wonder whether this will turn out to be a short-lived fad, or an approach which stands the test of time.

“Remember, colour drenching as we now call it is an interior design trend, and trends do pass, so think about why you want to do it,” says Patrick O’Donnell. “It does ultimately add a simplicity to a scheme, and also it doesn’t have to be in a strong colour – colour drenching can also be very beautiful in off-whites and neutrals.”

Some would say that colour drenching is a passing fancy, while others might argue that the technique’s centuries-long history suggests otherwise. What really matters is how well the colour drenching fits the room, and how well a colour-drenched space suits your home.

Still need to brush up on your painting and decorating? Read our guides on how to paint over lime plaster, tips for painting skirting boards and sanding walls before painting.

If you're renovating a compact room, colour, storage and lighting will probably demand your attention before tiles do. But the choice of tile, and specifically how it's laid, can do more for a room's proportions than almost any of those decisions.

The advice you'll most commonly encounter – use large tiles, keep it light, stick to neutrals – isn't wrong. But it barely scratches the surface of what tile choice can actually do. The variables that really determine how generous a space feels are pattern direction, grout density, and the relationship between floors and walls.

We asked two tile designers to go beyond the basics and reveal which tile patterns work hardest in a small space, which ones to avoid, and where the conventional wisdom breaks down.

It's all about the grout lines

"It comes down to grout lines more than anything else," says Damla Turgut, founder and creative director of Otto Tiles. "Large format tiles across walls and floors can help create the illusion of space because there are fewer grout lines breaking up the surface. This reduces visual clutter and allows the eye to move more continuously across the room, rather than constantly stopping and starting between individual tiles."

Maria D Arráez, director at Tile of Spain UK, agrees, adding: "Large-format tiles laid in an unfussy, continuous pattern create a sense of openness. They help visual flow and draw the eye through the space, rather than interrupting it."

The reverse is equally true. Very small format tiles have the opposite effect, and Damla cautions against coin-shaped mosaic tiles or small checkerboard designs in compact rooms.

"The combination of bold pattern repetition and excessive grout lines can make a room feel visually fragmented and overly busy," she warns. The exception being something like traditional zellige, where tiles sit together with minimal grout lines, giving you smaller scale and texture without the same visual noise.

How the direction you lay tiles affects the size of a room

"The direction of your tiles has a huge psychological impact," explains Damla Turgut. "Running a pattern towards a window naturally pulls the eye towards the light source, which can elongate a room and make it feel more open. Vertical layouts can exaggerate ceiling height, while horizontal lines can visually widen narrow spaces."

Linear formats do particularly heavy lifting here. Striped or stacked layouts, alongside elongated Kit Kat tiles, draw the eye upwards or outwards, depending on the effect you're after, while a traditional offset brick pattern laid horizontally can visually widen a room. Chevron and herringbone work similarly, the direction of the lay determining whether the room feels taller or wider.

Even the smallest decisions make a measurable difference. Laying rectangular tiles lengthways through a corridor, rather than across it, can completely shift its proportions.

"People often underestimate how much tile orientation affects spatial perception," Damla says, "but it's one of the most effective tools available when working with smaller rooms."

Shop for tiles for smaller rooms

Why using the same tones and tile on floors and walls makes a room look bigger

One of the most consistently effective techniques in a small room is eliminating the visual break between floor and wall. When different materials or colours meet at that junction, the eye registers the room's true edges. Remove that contrast, and the room reads as much larger than it is.

When choosing tiles for a small bathroom, "wrapping the same tile across floors and walls can blur boundaries and make the room feel much larger because the eye isn't constantly stopping and starting between surfaces," says Damla Turgut. And Maria D Arráez extends this to internal thresholds too. "Run floor tiles seamlessly into walk-in shower areas or onto walls," she advises, "as this helps blur the boundary and makes smaller rooms feel more expansive".

Can dark tiles make a room look bigger?

"Colour and pattern go hand in hand, so it's vital to consider both when choosing tiles," says Maria D Arráez. "Softer, more tonal palettes reflect the light better and help create a welcoming, airy feel, especially when paired with a complementary grout colour." But she is clear that bold colour is far from off the table.

"An earthy palette of rich greens, terracottas and deep blues can work beautifully in small rooms when used consistently. Cocooning a small space in a darker colour can actually make it feel bigger, as the enveloping effect feels intentional rather than overwhelming."

The key, she adds, is harmony: the tile finish, grout and surrounding materials need to work together rather than compete. Damla Turgut takes a similar view on finish, noting that deeper tones with reflective surfaces can create a genuine sense of depth and atmosphere in a low-ceilinged room, particularly when paired with good lighting. "Smaller spaces don't always need to feel minimal or white to feel expansive," she says – a useful reminder that pale and plain is a choice, not a rule.

The rooms where standard rules don't apply

Pair these plain and patterned tiles together

Every renovator eventually has a room that refuses to behave like the others. Whether it's a narrow hallway or a low-ceilinged bathroom, these are also the spaces where the most interesting decisions get made.

Damla Turgut's instinct is to lean into the character of the room rather than fight it. In a narrow hallway, for instance, she would embrace a strong directional tile pattern rather than try to disguise the proportions as, "it creates real impact rather than fighting against them."

And for rooms with decorative tiles on the floor, she makes the case for keeping the walls relatively calm. "A decorative motif can help ground the scheme and set the tone for the interior," she says. "If the walls and ceiling are colour-capped, or kept relatively neutral, it allows the eye to move more naturally around the space without interruption. That balance can make a smaller room feel cohesive and larger."

Of all the individual tips and techniques, Damla's overarching point is perhaps the most useful to take away.

"Scale, layout and grout all work together," she says. "It's rarely one single factor that changes how spacious a room feels." Tile pattern is a design tool, not just a decorative choice – and the better you understand each variable, the more effectively you can use them.

The principles covered here apply to any room in the home. Whether you're choosing bedroom floor tiles or living room tiles, the same thinking around pattern direction, grout density and scale will help any space feel larger and more considered.

Robot vacuum and mop technology has taken a major leap in recent years, with brands competing on suction power, navigation and automated cleaning systems.

I own a range of models, but the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete Robot Vacuum Cleaner (available from Curry's) is meant to stand out from the crowd with stronger suction, extended mop reach and improved obstacle handling.

I put it through real-world testing to see how it performs in a typical home environment and whether it really stacks up against the best on the market.

Design, specs and key features

The MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete is positioned as a high-end robot vacuum and mop with a focus on deep cleaning and edge coverage.

It features a high suction system rated up to around 28,000Pa, placing it among the strongest on the market and ahead of many competitors in its class. For comparison, models like the eufy Omni C28 (which I also tested) typically sit around 15,000Pa, while Roborock and Ecovacs' flagship units often range between 7,000–12,000Pa.

A key differentiator is its extendable mop arm system, which actively pushes outward during cleaning to reach edges and corners. This is something most circular robot vacuums struggle with due to their fixed round mop footprints.

The Z60 Ultra Roller Complete includes a full self-maintaining docking station handling dust emptying, mop washing, drying and water refilling.

A nice added feature was that it also came with replacement dust bags, mop pads, cleaning solution, filters and rollers, reducing early running costs compared with many rivals where consumables often need replacing within months.

Cleaning performance and real-world testing

I tested the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete on a range of floors and I have to say it delivered strong results, with deep cleaning performance that was noticeably more effective than its competitors.

It handled dust, fine debris, and pet hair effectively, and the mop system provided consistent water distribution without obvious streaking.

However, where it stood out most was edge and corner cleaning. The extendable mop arms allowed it to reach into areas that circular systems typically miss, giving a more complete clean along walls and furniture edges compared with standard robotic mops.

In testing on thick black carpet and hallway transitions, the vacuum demonstrated strong adaptability across different floor types and obstacles. It is capable of climbing thresholds of around 4.5cm, with manufacturer claims suggesting up to 8cm in multi-step configurations, placing it well above many competing robot vacuums.

This makes it particularly effective in homes with mixed flooring and higher doorway transitions, where many circular robot vacuums can struggle or become stuck.

That said, cleaning time could be slow. A single 10m² room on deep clean mode took up to 30 minutes, particularly when the robot was performing repeated scanning passes or re-checking layout data.

Navigation, limitations and usability issues

Despite its strong cleaning ability, navigation is where the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete shows its weaknesses.

In testing, it frequently bumped into objects and occasionally struggled with tight spaces, with wheel entrapment happening more often than expected for a premium model. This is less common in systems such as Roborock Qrevo (available on Amazon) and Ecovacs' Deebot X11 (also on Amazon), which typically use more advanced obstacle avoidance.

It also had a tendency to re-clean areas unnecessarily, even outside of deep clean mode, which increased total cleaning time and reduced efficiency in smaller spaces.

Mapping and scanning were also slow, especially in unfamiliar environments, making initial setup and first runs noticeably longer than rival systems. Battery drain was also significant under high-power or deep clean modes, meaning it performed best in open-plan layouts where it could return to its dock more easily.

Is the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete the best robot vacuum cleaner?

This model delivers strong deep cleaning performance, impressive edge coverage and one of the most complete automation packages currently available on the market.

Its extendable mop system and high suction power give it a clear advantage over circular rivals in detailed cleaning tasks, particularly along edges and hard-to-reach areas.

However, its navigation inconsistencies, occasional object collisions and slow cleaning cycles mean it is not the most efficient option for every home. While it performs best in open-plan spaces where it can operate continuously from its dock, it may feel less refined in cluttered or complex environments.

Overall, the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete Robot Vacuum Cleaner is a powerful cleaning system that competes strongly at the top end of the market, but whether it is the “best” depends on whether you prioritise deep cleaning power over speed and navigation precision.

Found this helpful? You may also want to read our buying guide on the best vacuum cleaners for builder's dust or our review of the Henry HVR160.

Tiling around a toilet isn’t easy. The curves and bends provide a challenge for any DIYer. Get it wrong, and you will have to break out a new tile and start over. Or you could be spending forever removing tiny slivers of tile to get a good fit.

Whether you are laying floor tiles, wall tiles or using peel-and-stick tiles, the principles remain very much the same. But the techniques to achieve the curve and fit you need can differ depending on different factors.

Here, I explain the three steps you need to follow and the different methods you can use to try and achieve the perfect fit when cutting tiles around your toilet.

Step one: marking the curve

Cutting curves in a tile needs to be done accurately in order to ensure a good fit, and it all starts with marking out the curve correctly

These are the four tried and tested methods I've tried and tested.

1. Create a cardboard template

Creating a template is an old-school method, but it works well. However, you need to be patient to get the best results. Stephen Russell, independent tiler of Ashley Cross Tiling, says, “use a piece of cardboard to mark the curve and cut to shape. Don’t rush the process. If you do, you might need to start again.”

First, place the tile onto the cardboard, mark it with a pencil and then cut the cardboard with large wallpaper scissors. Alternatively, you can use a sharp steel snap-off knife, such as this Wolfcraft Metal Snap-Off Blade Knife from Amazon.

Now measure from the edge of the tile you are laying next to the toilet or object. Start at one end of the tile, take measurements every 50mm, and mark them on the template. This gives you a rough outline of the curve.

Next, make a cut on the template from the edge to be removed, just past the marks you made previously. Do this every 10mm. You’ll now have a set of strands that are flexible. Place the template where the tile is going to go, and don’t forget the gap for the grout if using stone or ceramic tiles.

Finally, press around the area (I use the end of a pencil) where the template meets the curve to create a crisp crease. Mark the shape with a pencil, pick up the template and cut along the mark. Put the template in place and check that it matches up as expected. If too tight to the curve, trim and check again. When happy, transfer to the tile.

An alternative is to use construction paper; the process is the same, but the material is usually slightly easier to cut. This method works a treat as long as you take your time. And don’t forget the grout gap.

2. Use a contour gauge

A contour gauge, such as this Dodowin contour gauge profile tool from Amazon (which I have), is a quick and easy way to get an accurate curve. Simply hold in place and push against the curve. Then transfer to a tile and mark with a pencil.

A contour gauge doesn’t have much depth; mine is around 70mm. However, you can turn and use the full length (in my case, 25cm) of the gauge to profile a longer curve.

Shop these tools for great curved tile cuts

3. Measure and mark

If you don’t have a piece of cardboard or a contour gauge handy, you can go freestyle and just measure and mark. I simply take a measurement every 20mm and mark on the tile. Then, join the marks freehand.

This method works well, but you need to take your time, as there’s no room for error. And don’t forget the grout gap. I use a straight edge and a pencil and mark the gap on the floor (or wall), so I don’t forget where to measure from.

4. Homemade hack

I’ve also used a child's school compass as a quick way to create a curve on a template, which you can transfer to a tile. I’ve also used it to mark plank-style tiles directly. This works well on the long side of an object (like a toilet) with a gentle curve.

I generally use a pencil to mark the curve, but a felt tip can work if the pencil isn’t working well, and the tile doesn’t stain.

Step two: Marking the tile to cut

There are a few options to mark a tile so you know where to cut. This will depend on the type of tile. “Use a pencil, as a felt tip pen can sometimes stain certain types of tile," warns Stephen Russell.

Felt tips are typically used on glazed tiles because they can be easily wiped clean. "Make sure you double check they wipe off cleanly on a test tile first," adds Harriet Goodacre, interiors and tiling expert from Topps Tiles, "as you don’t want any unsightly marks left on your brand new tiles."

The other option is to use a tile scribe. “A tile scribe can be used to lightly score the surface of the tile where you need to cut it, explains Harriet. "It’s especially useful when you want a guide that won’t rub away during the cutting process.

“The key is visibility without going too deep," she notes, "as too heavy scoring can lead to chipping.”

Step three: cutting the curve on the tile

There are a few options for cutting a curve once the tile has been marked out. “For curved cuts, it all comes down to how tight the shape and bend is and what the tile’s made from,” advises Harriet Goodacre.

For small curves, a pair of tile nippers is usually sufficient. For larger curves, both our experts, and I, recommend an angle grinder.

“Ease the angle grinder through the marked line using the weight of the angle grinder; do not use added force,” says Stephen Russell.

“Keep running through the angle grinder several times, don’t cut right through the tile when you start," he adds, noting how you also need to make sure you use a masonry disc to cut with.

Alternatively, you can use an electric tile cutter such as this Titan Electric Tile Cutter from Screwfix. This only allows straight cuts, so the technique is to make cuts every 10-20mm from the edge of the tile to the marked-out curve. Ideally, use a tile scribe to mark the curve, then you can snap off each thin tile strand and finish with tile nippers and a metal file such as this TARIST Half Round Metal File from Amazon, for smooth edges

For small, more intricate curves, you can use a tile saw. Good for wall tiles, but you might find you struggle with thicker floor tiles.

You might have seen a few videos online where a tiler uses a manual tile cutter, such as this Vitrex Heavy Duty Tile Cutter from Toolstation, to cut a curve. I can promise you this takes plenty of practice and is best avoided for most DIYers.

If you’re tiling a bathroom floor, you’ll need to know how many tiles you'll need. Especially if cutting curves around a toilet. Find out where to get the best deals with our where to buy bathroom floor tiles guide, or, for inspiration on what to buy, check out our bathroom floor tile ideas.

A cordless drill is an essential tool for any DIYer, so choosing a good one is important. Invest in a poor choice, and it won’t be long before you’ll be looking at spending again. The latest cordless drill to cross my path is the Einhell TP-CD 18/50, an everyday drill aimed at DIYers.

This is the first time I’ve encountered an Einhell drill, so I was excited to see what it had to offer. As a package, it’s making all the right noises, and it comes in at a very tempting price point.

Would it finally be time to say goodbye to my faithful old Black and Decker cordless drill and let the Einhell take its place? Time to find out.

Buy the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 drill today

Spec and features

• Motor type: Brushless motor
• Torque: 50 Nm
• Gears: 2
• Battery type: Lithium Ion
• Battery voltage: 18v
• Weight: 2.35kg
• Chuck capacity: 2mm-13mm
• Features: LED work light, torque adjustment collar, battery level indicator, 1 x hard carry case, 1 x drill body, 1x battery charger, 2 x 2.0Ah batteries, 1 x belt clip, instruction manual

First impressions

Who doesn’t love a power tool that comes with its own hard case? Any type of case is a winner, as it helps protect a power tool, but the Einhell hard case gives the impression of being a long-term friend to the Einhell drill.

It's a solid plastic case with a bright red lid emblazoned with the brand name. At least it will be easy to find. Inside, it is lined with egg box foam padding (one side) and flat foam padding on the other. This ensures that the drill, batteries and charger aren’t thrown around and damaged when on the move.

The drill body feels sturdy and well-built, and sits neatly in the hand, with the rubberised grip giving a secure feel. The LED light instantly makes an appearance when the trigger sets the drill into life (my battery was charged and ready to go). Can I switch this off? Not sure (yet), but it might be good if I could switch it off when not needed as it would help save battery life.

Setting up

As you might expect, there’s not much work involved in setting up a cordless drill. Slide in the battery and you’re ready to go. The battery was already charged, so it could be used straight out of the box which is a nice touch.

What you do need to do is familiarise yourself with the torque selector and the selector switch. The selector switch lets you choose between driving, drilling and impact drilling (the hammer function).

You will need to combine this with the most suitable torque setting to help ensure you get the best from the Einhell TP-CD 18/50. To add a little more to the mix, there are two gears which help you fine-tune performance. There’s a lot going on, so if you are an inexperienced DIYer, you should read the instruction manual fully before you start.

Performance

The fun part of any review is using the product itself, and a new cordless drill is always going to see plenty of action. To kick off, I thought I’d ease myself into using the Einhell TP-CD 18/50with some simple wood screwing tasks. There are no drill bits or a bit holder included, so I used what I already had. The 13mm chuck is easy to use, but slightly different from other drills I’ve used. But it did what it needed to do, without any problems.

I started with 100mm screws for screwing fence panels into wooden posts. With the screw selector in position and the torque setting set to 11, off I went. This worked as expected, but on tougher parts, I had to turn the torque up to the maximum level to finish.

I struggled with one screw in particular, so I switched over to my old cordless drill to see how it compared. The Einhell TP-CD 18/50 was definitely doing a better job, probably thanks to its extra torque (50 Nm compared with 40 Nm).

Like all good drills, the drill stops when it reaches its managed torque level. This ensures you have more control over the drill and don’t go too deep with a screw, which could split the wood. So start low and turn up the torque until you get the level you want.

Tackling heavy duty DIY drilling tasks

Switching the selector to drill or hammer mode eliminates the need to choose a torque setting, with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 automatically switching to maximum output. Perfect for the next set of DIY tasks I had in mind.

Next up was drilling into exterior brickwork, and using my spade drill bit to create recesses in a fence post, ready for the concrete screws. The Einhell TP-CD 18/50 zipped through the timber with no problem.

Switching over to my DeWALT masonry drill bits, putting it into second gear, the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 powered into the brickwork with relative ease. At one point, the drill bit did stick, but I simply retightened the chuck and carried on.

Next up was a move indoors to put up some heavy-duty shelf brackets. Drilling into my interior walls has been hard work in the past. But the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 provided all the power I needed to drill deep enough for the Rawl plugs and screws to be inserted.

I also managed to do all the tasks mentioned without having to swap over the battery. So, I decided to keep going on other DIY tasks to get a better idea of battery life. Overall, I have to say I was very happy with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50's performance so far.

Shop these tools to use with a cordless drill

Battery life

Battery life is key for any cordless tool, and the 18V 2.0Ah batteries supplied with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 didn’t disappoint. The charger features a set of easy-to-understand icons that make it clear what stage the charging is at. Red and green LEDs make sure you don’t get confused.

Charging times using the supplied charger were pretty swift, taking just 40 minutes to reach a full charge and be ready to go. This would be ideal if you only had one battery, but with two batteries on offer, I always had a fully charged battery ready to replace the other when needed.

You might think that quick charging times mean short working times, but this wasn’t the case with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50. A fully charged battery lasted around 45 minutes to an hour. In real terms, that meant I tackled a whole host of DIY jobs over the weekend and didn’t need to replace the battery. And when I did, I had a fully charged battery ready to replace.

A trio of LED lights on the battery can be activated with a quick press of a button to indicate remaining power. Confusingly, the lights were red, rather than green, but I can live with that.

Final verdict

If you’re looking for an everyday drill that can tackle pretty much any DIY task that you can throw at it, then the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 Cordless Brushless Combi Drill is definitely one you need to add to your list. It offers plenty of torque (50Nm) for a standard cordless drill, which sits at the top end of what you usually get at this level.

For less than £100, you get a solid drill, two batteries, a charger, and a hard case, which, in my opinion, makes it good value for money. You might not get any drill or screwdriver bits with it, which would have been nice, but a charger and two batteries more than make up for this. On the plus side, you can choose the bits you need rather than getting a bunch you may never use.

Throw in quick charge times and decent working times, and there’s little that I didn't like about the Einhell TP-CD 18/50. How long it stays as my number one drill, only time will tell.

Ask me a few years ago and I’d have probably turned my nose up at the idea of wallpapering. It would have conjured up flashbacks of my nan’s dated ‘Eternal Beau’-inspired chintzy borders, or my gran’s bold-but-questionable devotion to psychedelic 1970s florals. For a long time, wallpaper was firmly filed under “decor best left in the past”.

But then I moved into a Victorian house and realised that wallpaper might actually be the decorating equivalent of a good concealer. Uneven walls or dodgy plasterwork? Covered. Wonky chimney breast? Distracted from. Instant results? Absolutely!

I've since had several attempts at wallpapering through my home – with mixed results. So, in the interests of saving you from peeling seams, mismatched patterns and paste-related regret, here are the wallpapering mistakes I’ve learned the hard way, as well as some expert tips on how to resolve them.

1. Not using enough paste

Wallpapering our narrow hallway was quite the challenge due to our steep staircase, but we were happy with our paper choice and results, at least for a while. Then we started to notice that it was peeling in a couple of places at the edges, but couldn’t work out why.

It’s a common issue, according to Ulams Mazulis, co-owner of Fancy Walls. “Many first-time wallpaper installers run into this problem,” he says. “It often means there was not enough glue on the wallpaper or the wall. To fix it, lift the peeling edge, use a small brush to add more wallpaper glue underneath, press the wallpaper back down, and smooth it with a wallpaper roller.”

We used traditional wallpaper, but this problem can also occur with peel-and-stick variations. “This typically indicates that the wall was not cleaned well enough before installation, leaving dust and residue behind,” says Ulams. “But again, you can buy wallpaper glue and apply it to the peeling area, just like with traditional wallpaper. Another option is to use thin double-sided tape around the edge that is coming loose.”

2. I didn’t cover every wall straight away

This is a particular regret in my guest bedroom, where I picked out a lovely Mid-century Scion Khadi design in grey, but only used it in the room’s alcoves. While the paper wasn’t cheap, (which probably explains why I was so timid at the time), I regret not covering all my walls for a stronger design statement. Especially now that the wallpaper has been discontinued.

"We definitely see defaulting to a single feature wall or perhaps a couple of alcoves as a wallpapering mistake," says Sophie Smith, director and co-founder of The Living House.

"People are now much braver with their interior choices, wallpapering every wall, even papering the ceiling, which creates a cosy, cocooning feel and brings real character to a space. In fact, a feature wall in a long narrow room can actually work against you," she adds, "making the wall feel like it's coming toward you, and the room feel smaller as a result."

3. Drying washing on radiators with wallpaper behind them

Full disclosure – this is an issue my best friend had rather than myself, as my decorator had already had some stern words for me as he wallpapered behind radiators. My big takeaway from his lecture was never to dry washing on a radiator with wallpaper behind it, as the moisture and steam created is bound to cause issues.

But that’s not the only possible culprit.

"Bubbling behind the radiator often happens because the radiator’s heat slowly dries out the wallpaper glue," says Ulams Mazulis. "As the glue dries, the wallpaper can stretch or expand, which causes these bubbles."

Wallpapering in the summer months when the radiators are turned off can give more time for the glue to adhere more strongly, but if the advice comes too late for you and you've spotted bubbles appearing, you can try the following method to fix it.

Start by gently smoothing the bubble with a wallpaper smoother. "Move slowly from the edge of the bubble toward the centre to push the air out," says Ulams Mazulis. "If the bubble stays after smoothing, use a needle to make a tiny pinhole in the centre, then gently press the air out through the hole."

4. The small-scale pattern I chose looks too fussy

Now, this is a mistake I definitely won’t make again, and I’ve been much bolder with my more recent wallpaper ideas. But why do small-scale patterns fail in many spaces?

"Many people assume a small room needs a small print, but a large scale pattern can actually trick the eye into making a space feel bigger," says Sophie Smith. "It's also worth thinking about what other patterns you will be pairing the wallpaper with, such as your soft furnishings, light shades, cushions and accessories."

Fussy patterns with too many colours in them can actually be quite tricky to mix and match with soft furnishings and paint colours. So something with a bolder print and more limited palette can make life easier – especially in the long run, when you want to change up other accessories.

5. Excess paste has left dirty marks on my ceiling

As first-time wallpaperers, we definitely encountered this issue. And I can attest that if you don’t deal with wiping up the excess paste, you’ll be staring up with regret at marks on your ceiling for years, rather than admiring your lovely wallpaper pattern.

It’s best to tackle the issue as you’re decorating. "To clean excess paste from your ceiling, use hot water and a microfibre cloth," says Ulams Mazulis. "Usually, wiping the area will fix the problem. If that does not work, you, or the person who installed the wallpaper, may need to return and repaint the spot."

6. Poor pattern placement is distracting

Not getting your pattern matching right is one of those details you can’t un-see once you’ve spotted it. A poorly positioned wallpaper repeat can turn an otherwise beautiful design into something oddly distracting – whether that’s a flower awkwardly sliced in two or a poor animal or bird missing its head altogether.

"Hanging patterned wallpaper requires thinking about where the motifs start and stop," explains Sophie. "If it's a design featuring animals or flowers, you really don't want the motif chopped in half at the top of the wall where it will be the first thing people notice."

"Take the time to plan your drops before you begin, positioning the pattern so that the most prominent motifs fall in the most visible and flattering parts of the wall."

If you're nervous, go for a more forgiving patterned design, like this B&Q GoodHome Nivosa plaster-effect embossed wallpaper in teal that I've used in my hallway. It's been part of the range for years and we were impressed by the quality – it feels just as thick as some very expensive lookalikes, and hides a multitude of sins.

FAQ

Why is the wallpaper peeling on my new-build walls?

If you’ve recently wallpapered your new-build home, you might see gaps emerging between your lengths of wallpaper despite your best efforts. But this won’t necessarily be due to your pasting skills.

"If you’ve just moved into a new build, the building materials will still adjust to their new environment for up to 12 months," says interior design expert, Hannah Prescott of Diamond Interiors. "Wood, concrete, and plaster need about 12 months to dry and settle properly, so if you paint or apply wallpaper prematurely, you could end up dealing with cracks and gaps as the materials adjust to temperature changes and settle in."

Our guide to wallpapering new plaster can help ensure nothing goes wrong.

Now we've dealt with any potential disasters and hopefully renewed your confidence in wallpapering, brush up on some wallpapering hacks that will help you get a pro finish, and make sure you invest in the best wallpaper tools to make the job eaier.

Not every DIYer has the same definition of budget when looking to buy power tools, so for clarity, in this article, I’m going to focus mainly on budget brands and power tools that sit at the low end of the price scale. However, I have included a well-known power tool brand for balance and curiosity.

Just remember that budget doesn’t have to mean bad. Better-known brands like Makita and DEWALT undoubtedly produce good-quality tools, but they are typically aimed beyond the DIY market and are built for everyday use, meaning they cost more. Budget power tools rarely have the same build quality, but you can still find quality for DIY use.

Here I share the 5 budget tools I've been using for years and what to consider when shopping for your own affordable tool kit.

Five power tools I didn’t spend big on and are still going today

1. Black+Decker cordless drill

A drill is the king of power tools for DIYers. It’s one tool that every level of DIYer owns, and it's often the first power tool they buy. It's been a while since I bought my first power tool, but my current cordless drill from Black+Decker has been with me for over ten years. And it didn’t cost big bucks back when I bought it.

However, it's been with me so long that the specific model I have is no longer available. But the current incarnation (see below) is well-priced and a great choice for basic drilling and screwing.

If you want something more powerful, then I can recommend the Einhell TE-CD 18 Cordless Combi Drill (available from Screwfix). I’ve just got this, and I’m liking it. Hopefully, it will last as long as my existing Black+Decker model.

2. Black+Decker detail sander

I know it's another Black+Decker power tool, but I’ve always found them to be a good choice for DIY jobs, and this handy little detail sander works a treat and costs just over £20. I’ve had mine for over five years, and it’s done my stairs, spindles and bannisters. It’s also sanded dozens of doors, door frames, architraves, window frames, window sills and skirting boards. In fact, most of the woodwork in my home – and it's still going strong.

The only things I've had to change are the plug (I broke it) and the sandpaper pads. And if it does go wrong, I‘ve only got to shell out another £22.

3. Von Haus orbital sander

I had never heard of VonHaus before their orbital sander made its way into my hands. But I needed a new sander, read a few reviews, and thought I’d take a chance. I can’t remember how much I paid for it, but it wasn’t a lot, and I’ve had it for around four years. It’s been a faithful companion to my detail sander, so it's seen a lot of action.

Alongside all the jobs my detail sander has tackled, this orbital sander has done even more. It has sanded plywood and MDF sheets, refreshed my garden furniture, and even helped sand floorboards.

Its easy-to-use variable-speed feature is very helpful when sanding and probably helps prolong its life, as it's not always in top gear. And, like my Black+Decker mouse, it's still going strong, and the current price point (just under £30) makes it worth considering.

4. MacAllister circular saw

MacAllister was another brand I had never heard of when I bought their circular saw. But my thinking was a little different. I needed a circular saw, and on one of my many trips to B&Q, I spotted the Mac Allister 190mm corded circular saw at a very affordable price. So I bought it.

Here we are over three years later, and it's still working fine. It has cut through numerous sheets of plywood and MDF, helping me build wardrobes, shelving units, shelves, flooring, and timber partitions.

As you might expect, it's not cordless, so you’ll need an extension lead (like this STATUS 2 Socket Cable Reel from Amazon) to ensure you’re in the right place when you need to be. The blade is an all-rounder with 24 teeth which is great for ripping through timber and board, but you might need something more subtle if looking for a finer cut.

5. Makita mitre saw

I have to be honest and say that my Makita mitre saw isn’t at the budget end of the price scale, but I think it's definitely good value for money. This is one of my most recent acquisitions, and I decided to invest a bit more as I had the budget to do so. And I was curious, and wanted to see the quality I would get from a well-known brand.

It's fair to say I wasn’t disappointed. This saw is sturdy and well-built, with a general air of quality. The Makita LS0714N/1 190mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw (available from Screwfix) has helped me build custom fence panels and lay wooden floors, ensuring I get crisp, clean and even edges, and angles where needed.

If you don’t want to spend a lot, there are plenty of cheaper alternatives that will do a decent job. Worx and Metabo (like this Metabo KGS 216 Slide Compound Mitre Saw from Amazon) are good mid-range options, while Evolution power tools are a good budget option as well.

How to choose budget power tools

If you are an occasional DIYer, you will probably use your power tools only a few times a year. Even if you’re a keen DIYer, it's unlikely all your power tools will be called into action every weekend.

And, when you do call upon your power tools, some will be called into action more than others. For example, a drill is probably going to get a lot more use than an angle grinder, so it makes sense not to buy really cheap tools that you use the most. Read reviews and take a chance; most of the time you won’t be disappointed.

I’ve bought a lot of budget power tools, and they rarely let me down. And when they have, it's been very soon after purchasing, so I’ve been able to take them back under the warranty and get them replaced.

My general advice is always to consider how much use a power tool will get and buy accordingly. If it's going to get a lot of use, spend at the top end of your budget. If unsure, buy a budget brand and see how it goes. What's the worst that can happen? It might only last a couple of years. Alternatively, it could last for years like my budget power tools have.

Also, compare budget brand prices with cheaper versions of well-known brands. You might get something that costs a bit more, but may last longer and offers more features.

Finally, I suggest you buy high-quality accessories such as drill bits and sanding discs. Accessories supplied with budget models are, as a general rule, low in quality.

FAQs

Who makes budget power tools?

Take a search on Amazon, and we guarantee that you’ll find a whole range of power tool brands you have never heard of alongside the more established ones. Take a trip to your local B&Q, and you’ll notice some very competitively priced power tools under the MacAllister name. They also have a brand called Erbauer. Screwfix has a brand called Titan, and even Lidl has some smart power tool bargains under the Parkside banner. These are all own-brand power tools.

Most budget tools come from manufacturers that already make power tools. As an example, the Parkside brand (found in Lidl) is owned by the Einhell group, based in Germany, which produces its own power tools. B&Q and Screwfix are both part of the Kingfisher group. So it's safe to assume many of their power tools come from the same source.

Brands like B&Q with their own brand power tools still want a good reputation, so it makes sense that you are still getting a decent product when you opt for a more budget price tag.

The right power tools make any DIY project go that bit smoother. Call your sanders into action and get your prep right for must-see paint trends, matching skirting boards with your interior style and making the most of some smart wall panelling ideas.

Mosaic tiles can instantly elevate a room’s appearance. Their versatility and design diversity make them a perfect companion for floors and walls in any living space. They can enhance your hallway flooring, elevate your kitchen design and underline any smart bathroom designs you desire.

However, there are some subtle differences to standard tiles that any DIYer needs to know, whether you're using mosaic tiles when tiling a wall, or any other kind of surface.

Most mosaics conveniently come with a mesh backing to take the hard work out of spacing, but you’ll still need the right tools and techniques to get a professional-looking finish.

Tools you’ll need to install mosaic tiles

The tools you need to install mosaic tiles will differ slightly from a standard tiling kit. For example, you will need the right size trowel, shares Lorenzo Smith, Head of Product at Ca’ Pietra. “A smaller-notched trowel is important, as it helps control the adhesive bed and prevents it from pushing up through the finer joints.”

Another key essential to get right is adhesive to make sure that your tiles stay in place. "A flexible tile adhesive is the safest and most dependable choice," says Lorenzo. "White adhesive is often preferred for glass, marble, or lighter finishes," he adds, "so that the tone beneath does not interfere with the final appearance.”

In addition to the right trowel and adhesive, you’ll also need scissors to cut the backing mesh, tile nippers to cut the actual tile (a standard tile cutter won’t work), a rubber grout float, and a large sponge such as these GADLANE Jumbo Car Wash Sponges from Amazon.

A spirit level and a straight edge such as this ZZTX 12 Inch Stainless Steel Ruler from Amazon are also essential to ensure straight lines.

Shop for tile tools to install mosaic tiles

How to install mosaic tiles

1. Apply adhesive

To apply the adhesive, you will need a 4mm notch trowel.

"Spread in smaller sections so that it remains workable and applied at a consistent angle to ensure an even bed," says Lorenzo Smth.

One smart tip is to slightly flatten the ridges before placing the tile. Once the tile is in place, press down with a grout float or a similar-sized piece of board to help ensure good adhesion and a level surface.

2. Lay from the centre outwards

Although it can depend on the area being tile, as a general rule, start in the centre recommends Lorenzo Smith.

“With mosaics, beginning from the centre and working outwards often delivers the most composed result. This is especially true on splashbacks or feature walls, where symmetry is more apparent.

“That said, everything depends on a reliable starting point," he adds. “A perfectly level guide line is essential before any tile is fixed in place. Whether you begin from a central axis or a key edge such as a worktop, taking the time to establish that reference will define the accuracy of everything that follows.”

If you do start centrally, make sure to measure up (or dry-lay if possible) and see where the tile edges will fit against walls and surfaces. Luckily, mosaic sheets are pretty flexible, so you often don’t need to cut the tile, just the mosaic mesh, to get a good fit.

“It is also worth checking each sheet before installation," adds Lorenzo, "as small irregularities can sometimes occur during manufacturing, and these are far easier to correct before the tiles are fixed in place.”

3. Keep a consistent gap

The backing sheet of a mosaic ensures consistent spacing between the individual mosaics. However, when a sheet is placed on the adhesive and pressed into place, the mosaics can shift and twist slightly, so they are not always perfectly aligned.

Check by eye to see whether any of the mosaics are out of line. To ensure consistent alignment, I use a straight edge, a 30cm steel ruler, and place it in the gap and adjust any mosaic. I do this vertically and horizontally if needed.

Time spent at this point will ensure you don’t need to adjust later, which will be more difficult and time-consuming.

4. Cut in the correct way

When dealing with mosaic tile sheets, you rarely need to cut the actual mosaic tile, but if you do, there is a process to follow.

The first step is to, "cut the mesh backing first with scissors or a craft knife to separate the tiles you need," says Harriet Goodacre, interiors and tiling expert at Topps Tiles.

Make sure to measure and double-check before you cut so you don’t remove too many tiles. I can tell you from experience that it gets fiddly if you do, and have to start adding individual mosaics to complete a job.

If you need to make small cuts, you’ll need tile nippers, confirms Harriet. “For shaping, tile nippers are the easiest option, especially for curves or small adjustments. You simply cut away at the mosaic little by little, then smooth any rough edges with a file," she says.

I suggest a round file for curves and a flat file for straight edges. This will make sure your bathroom tile ideas look much more professional.

If however you need to make a straight cut across a full mosaic sheet, the best option is an electric tile cutter. To help ensure a straight cut, I apply wide masking tape to the front and back of the mosaic sheet where the cut will be made. This helps stop the mosaics from moving while being cut.

“It’s also worth remembering to wear gloves and safety glasses while cutting, particularly with glass mosaics, as small shards can break away," advises Harriet.

Shop these mosaic tiles for walls and floors

FAQs

Should I use tile spacers?

Tile spacers are a must when installing standard tiles, but mosaics are slightly different. Lorenzo Smith points out where best to use, saying, “tile spacers can be useful between sheets, particularly if you are less familiar with mosaic installation, though they are rarely needed within the sheets themselves.”

Personally, I think it’s easier to judge the gap by eye. But if in any doubt, use a spacer at both edges of the mosaic tile sheet to get an even gap.

The common gap between the mosaics is 2mm, so invest in a pack of 2mm tile spacers like these OX Trade Cross Shaped Tile Spacers from Amazon.

How do I choose the right mosaic tiles?

Choosing the right mosaic tile is the key to a smart finish. Alex Woods, bathroom expert at Victorian Plumbing, shares how to choose the right mosaic tile for your project.

“When deciding on your tiles, I would recommend holding a few options up against your wall or floor first to see how they look in the actual lighting of the room. Natural and artificial light can change how colours appear, so it’s worth checking before you commit.” Consider investing in a few different samples before you commit to purchasing.

“Mosaic tiles are typically small, busy patterns that can make a space feel more detailed and textured, while larger or simpler designs create a cleaner, more modern look," says Alex, "so it’s also important that the tile design suits the space. For example, lighter colours can make small bathrooms feel bigger, while darker tones can add contrast and style in larger areas.”

Lorenzo Smith's final tips for installing mosaic tiles? It's a simple tip, but it's essentially don’t rush.

“Take the time to step back and assess your progress at regular intervals," says Lorezo. This allows you to maintain a consistent finish, ensuring the final result feels cohesive and carefully executed.”

Mosaic tiles work well in bathrooms and kitchens and can add a whole new nuance to a room. Check out how to make the most of them in in these spaces with this range of kitchen wall tile ideas, and bathroom tile ideas for small bathrooms.

When you need new tiles in your home, but don't necessarily have the budget or time for a major tiling project, peel and stick tiles (also known as self-adhesive tiles) offer a practical, budget-friendly solution.

And, as they also don't require the specialist knowledge needed to lay traditional tiles, they are the ideal option for DIYers looking to lend their hand to an easy refresh.

There are still some must-follow rules to ensure that your newly laid peel and stick tiles stay looking good for longer. But if you follow these, you can end up with a stylish design, a tiling pattern you love, and a finish that looks professional. That’s why I use them – and why they could be the right choice for you too.

Benefits of peel and stick tiles

Peel and stick tiles, like their ceramic and stone counterparts, can be used almost anywhere in the home, confirms David Turner, head of product at Leader Online. “The flexibility of peel and stick vinyl makes it suitable for everywhere except staircases," he notes. "The adhesive will not withstand the pressure of vertical forces, making it a potential safety hazard.”

Peel and stick tiles have excellent durability and longevity too he adds. “With a clear scratch-resistant layer, high-quality vinyl (the material peel and stick tiles are made of) can withstand pet claws, furniture scrapes and everyday wear.

“On average, vinyl flooring can last up to 10 years if properly installed, with high-quality tiles lasting more than 15 years.” Wall tiles are slightly different though he explains.

“Wall tiles can last between 3 and 10 years, depending on how well they were installed, and the environmental conditions they are in. High-moisture areas, such as when they are used for bathroom tiling ideas may make them lift sooner.”

Plenty of design options

In terms of how they look, peel and stick tiles can also be found in a variety of options to suit most interior design trends and individual tastes.

“Advances in technology mean peel and stick tiles are now available in a range of high-quality designs," confirms David Turner. “A popular modern design is stone-effect, which gives the look of natural slate or concrete, without the cold feel of real stone.

“Stylish geometric designs with Moroccan influences, or bolder patterns like mosaics and hexagons that give the impression of hand-painted designs also sell well," he adds.

Shop for peel and stick tiles

How to install peel and stick tiles

1. Buy well before you start

Patterned peel and stick tiles won't always have a perfect match-up on the edges. For example, if your tiles have a narrow border, they might not be equal due to the cutting process at the factory.

Plan ahead and try to match up a wider border with a narrow border for a more consistent look. Be warned, I’ve tried this, and you don’t always get the perfect finish. In this case, I put the worst of the edges in areas that won’t be seen so much.

Ideally, you want to buy all the tiles you need at once. Aim for around 10% more than you need, which often amounts to an extra packet. If you’ve got a lot of corners and curves, I tend to add 20% more.

And finally, try to buy from the same batch if possible, much the same as when buying wallpaper. Packaging should have a batch number. I’ve bought tiles from different batches (without realising), and there has been a notable difference, which becomes even more noticeable when laid.

If you do choose to buy from different batches, remove them from the packaging and place them side by side to compare before you fit them.

2. Get your surface prep right

Like all floor projects, preparation is key and peel and stick tiles are no different. Install them on a poorly prepared, dirty surface, and it won’t be long before they shift and start to pull away from the surface below.

If you have floorboards or an uneven wooden floor use sheets of 6mm-12mm plywood such as this Arranwood Hardwood Plywood from B&Q as a base. Ideally, add a primer/sealer to the plywood to help with adhesion.

Diluted PVA is a cheap option for indoor areas, but if laying tiles in a bathroom, use a more specialist product such as this BAL Bond SBR Multi-Purpose Bonding and Primer Agent from Victorian Plumbing.

Alternatively, if you have reasonably flat floorboards or floor hardboard, this will be a suitable surface. Or, if you have a concrete floor, make sure it is sealed with a suitable sealer such as this Bostik Cempolay Universal Primer from Screwfix.

3. Ensure you have the right tools

You will need a sharp utility knife ike this Shark-Tuff® Heavy Duty Folding Utility Knife from Amazon, a strong straight edge, such as this Aluminium Cutting Ruler with Handle from The Range, a tape measure, and a board to cut the tiles on.

If you are replacing old peel and stick vinyl tiles, you’ll also need a few extra tools to make the removal process quick and easy.

You can use a wide wallpaper or paint scraper, but I find it time-consuming, it quickly clogs with glue, and is hard on the palms of your hands. To speed up the process, I use a heavy-duty scraper such as this CCA Flooring and Wallpaper Scraper available from Amazon. This has a long handle and is much quicker, and you can change the blades.

Removing peel-and-stick tile will leave glue residue on the floor. This will need to be removed and cleaned before any tiles can be added. Combine the scraper with a heat gun like this SEEKONE Professional Heat Gun from Amazon. This softens the glue and makes it much easier to remove.

Finally, wash the floor with a dedicated floor cleaner, such as this Flash Direct To Floor Cleaner from Amazon, to remove any remaining dirt and glue. You are now ready to add your new tiles.

4. Lay from the centre outwards

Start in the centre of the room and work outwards. Dry lay the tiles to check that you don’t have narrow or awkward cuts at the edges and corners. Check out our guide on how to lay vinyl tiles for other advice as the process is much the same. I always start with a new blade and have a couple of spare blades on hand if needed.

A tip for cutting the tiles is to first ensure your straight edge is in the right place and secure. Then run the blade lightly against the straight edge and along the tile a couple of times. This helps create a straight cut. If you put too much pressure on and go astray, you won't get as neat a cut. Once the cut is deep enough, you can simply snap off the excess.

How does the price of peel and stick tiles compare to other types of tile?

Peel and stick tiles are the perfect option for those on a tight budget, particularly as they are an all-in-one solution, meaning you don’t need to think about additional costs like tile adhesive and grout.

Budget peel and stick tiles can be bought as little as £8m2, with average prices being £15-20m2 (such as these Floorpops Daphne Pink Peel & Stick Floor Tiles from B&Q).

Costs for ceramic floor tiles on the other hand are typically almost double. Expect to pay between £20 and £50 per square metre, although you can get some budget options such as these Wickes Urban Grey Ceramic Wall & Floor Tile from Wickes for £12/m2.

If you aren't proficient at tiling, you will also need to add installation costs when budgeting for other types of tiles, which can significantly raise the price.

For peel and stick tile inspiration, take a look at our kitchen floor tile ideas, and you could even consider if they could be a good fit as bedroom floor tiles, instead of wooden flooring or carpet.

You might think that owning four electric sanders is just plain greedy. Surely one is enough? Or maybe two if you are feeling extravagant. But it's not how many sanders you own that matters. What matters is that you have the right sander for whatever sanding project you are working on.

Use the wrong sander, and you will make the task more difficult and most likely not get the finish you should. I’ve built up my collection of sanders as DIY projects have come and gone, and my advice to you would be to do the same.

The following types of sander are what I have in my collection, and I find that each one is perfect for a different type of DIY task.

Orbital sander – my go-to option

If you only have one sander in your DIY toolkit, I’d make it an orbital sander.

The best orbital sanders are a great choice for most sanding jobs, especially on flat areas such as doors, window sills, tabletops and wooden kitchen worktops. It's also a good choice for sanding skirting boards.

For decorative items, such as architrave or ogee skirting boards, I use an orbital sander to tackle the flat areas before switching to an alternative option.

A key feature of random orbital sanders is that the sanding pad spins and oscillates simultaneously, which helps produce a smoother finish with fewer sanding marks. However, you will notice the marks if using coarser grits.

The best way to get rid of these is to progressively use finer grades if you need a smooth, mark-free finish for surfaces that will be varnished or polished rather than painted. I suggest you use an 80- or 120-grit for the first run, followed by a 240-grit to finish.

Great for: doors, tabletops, wooden kitchen worktops, sanding down wall filler.

Detail sander – when detail comes calling

An orbital sander may be a great all-rounder, but when it comes to 90-degree angles, its round sanding pad simply doesn’t fit. This is when you need to embrace the triangular sanding pad of a detail sander.

A detail sander is perfect for a whole host of DIY jobs. The most common jobs I use it for are stairs and doors. My latest detail sander is a BLACK+DECKER Mouse (available from B&Q), which has a compact design and fits neatly in the hand, making it easy to get into corners and edges on stairs and ideal for panels on a door.

But these are not the only areas I use it. I’ve used it on flat stair spindles, bannisters, furniture, corners and edges on walls and ceiling, for sanding MDF edges and small filled wall holes, among others.

Some detail sanders, including mine, have an extension (known as a ‘finger’ or similar). These fit on top of the pad, making it easier to get into tight corners and areas like door slats. If you don’t have one, check whether your sander has the capability, and check online for one like this OTOTEC 2PCS Sander Finger Platen on Amazon.

Great for: door panels, board edges, stairs, small filled holes.

Sheet sander – ready to finish up

The beauty of a sheet sander is that it typically has a larger sanding pad than other sanders (like this Makita BO3710 Sheet Sander from Amazon). This covers more area with each pass, effectively removing more material faster. However, some sheet sanders have a smaller square pad, which makes them great for straight edges and corners.

My sheet sander, which has the larger rectangular pad, is used much less than my orbital or detail sander. I typically use it for sanding plywood and MDF to get a fine finish on the face of the board and to smooth out the edges to match.

Another bonus is that I don’t need specific sanding discs to fit the sander, like an orbital sander, detail sander, or belt sander. I just buy sheets of sandpaper in the grits I want and cut them to fit the pad. This works out cheaper.

Great for: large flat areas such as doors, walls, boards (plywood, MDF, OSB), corners and edges.

Belt sander – when you need more power and speed

Belt sanders are not for fine finishing, and while a useful sander to have, in my opinion, they are not a necessary purchase unless you have a DIY project that benefits from what they have to offer. And that's exactly why I have a belt sander.

The reason I purchased a belt sander (like this Lumberjack 4" Belt Sander from B&Q) was to give my old parquet floor a refresh. I didn’t want the cost of replacing the floor or destroying the original floor. There’s an art to using a belt sander to sand floors, so I suggest you get a few practice runs in before starting on flooring that will be on display. It's easy to get unwanted ridges.

Since then, I’ve used my belt sander to level out floorboards, remove paint from old doors (again, wanted to keep costs down and retain the original doors), and finish off old boarded floors (remove leftover glue debris and rough areas, ready for new flooring). They are typically more expensive than other sanders, but I would say they are definitely worth the investment.

Great for: levelling floorboards, smoothing out rough timber, material removal on larger areas. It can also be used to sand engineered wood flooring.

Shop these sanders and add to your toolbox

Multi-tool sander attachment – a bonus addition for greater flexibility

I know I’ve already covered most bases when it comes to sanding, but alongside my four sanders, I do have a multitool with a sanding attachment. The sanding pad on my Black + Decker MultiEvo Multitool is very much the standard triangle shape, making it ideal for small detail jobs.

Do you need one? Not if you already own a detail sander. However, if you already own a multitool, it will most likely have a sanding attachment, so you don’t need to invest in a detail sander. I’m lucky to have both, so I use whichever is closest at hand and has the right grit sandpaper for whatever I’m working on.

Great for: panelled doors, wall repairs, shelf edges, window sills, door frames, skirting boards

Do you really need four different sanders?

There isn’t a simple yes or no answer to this question. What you do need is a sander that fits the job you are doing. If looking to remove material, fast, from a surface, a belt sander is a more obvious choice than a detail sander.

However, as a general guide, for most common DIY projects, I would recommend a random orbital sander and detail sander as the best combo. This deals with most flat surfaces, corners, and edges. However, if you are straying into larger, more heavy-duty DIY tasks, then sheet sanders and belt sanders will be needed.

I would start with an orbital and detail sander and add as needed. Also, if you do a lot of sanding, I would suggest stepping up the quality ladder and making a larger investment in your tools. Brands such as DeWalt and Makita are quality DIY products. If you really want to spend big, Festool and Mirka are good brands to consider.

Sanding is all part of the preparation process, commonly used to get wood ready for painting. Sanding walls can also be a smart move to ensure the surface is smooth and ready for paint application.

Sanding can obviously be a messy job, but there are ways to make sanding less dusty, such as using a sander that captures dust at source.

Spring is when most households start cleaning up their homes ready for summer – but there is one job I tend to strongly dislike, and that is pressure washing.

I've found it often difficult to find all the parts when you first get it out of the garage, before ending up being a job that takes all day, leaves you soaking wet and filthy dirty.

So when I was offered the chance to try a fancy new pressure washer from Kärcher that claimed to be "comfortable", I must admit I was suspicious about whether it really could make this particular task less nasty.

The Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium, which was launched in January, certainly looked smart from all the promotional material online. With its black and yellow ergonomic look, five-year warranty and 145 bar of pressure, it seemed to have an edge compared to some of other best pressure washers in a similar high-end price bracket.

Unboxing

The box the pressure washer came in was substantial, but despite being heavy, I was able to move it myself from where the delivery man left it, using the plastic straps.

The bright, yellow design was smart and immediately identifiable as holding a Kärcher pressure washer. This was great in terms of visual appeal, but worth noting to be aware of perhaps not leaving a newly-delivered box unattended outside a property in any crime-prone areas. You wouldn't want your expensive new machine being stolen before having the chance to even use it.

When it came to unboxing, this was straightforward and I was especially impressed that there was very little plastic inside, just one sheet, plus the straps to hold the box together on the exterior. The pressure washer was thoughtfully cushioned with cardboard to avoid any damage in transit instead, with all the different parts wedged together so they didn't move around too much. The instruction manual was on top, and easy to find on opening.

Ease of setting up

The Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium came with an instruction manual that was reasonably easy-to-follow from the diagrams, although it was a little unclear which part of the pressure washer to start constructing first, possibly because it didn't actually matter in what order it was put together. This took around 30 minutes.

Overall I found the assembly straight forward, with the only slightly fiddly bit being affixing the hose to the trigger gun, which is designed to be removable for storage. I didn't fully understand the need for the yellow pouch on the front, but suspect this might be to do with storing additional features that can be purchased.

I was liked the way the universal cleaner slotted straight into the machine ready for automatic dispersal through a specific setting on the rotating nozzle on the lance. I was looking forward to giving this a go.

First impressions

Once the Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium was fully constructed, I gave it a good look over before putting it to the test by cleaning my very dirty patio. It didn't fail to impress, being just as slick in person compared to how it looked online.

The build-quality was excellent – made from 25% recycled materials – with no sign of any flimsy parts, or anything that looked weak enough to break. The fixings were well oiled, and all the buttons had a nice firm feel to them as they were pressed. One thing to watch was the grey trigger on the lance did catch my skin once, which nipped a bit.

The product has been well thought out in its design. The grey hose can be removed from the trigger gun (although this took some fiddling around with to work out how), with a reel for tidying it away when not in use. Meanwhile, the lance itself could be broken down into two sections with two holders on the front to slot them into when packed away.

My only slight surprise was how heavy the machine was at 13.8kg, making it rather cumbersome to lift over the gravel and steps in my garden, without bashing it into things accidentally. The handle on the top was useful for lifting, and any flat surfaces were easy to tackle as the K5 had a decent pair of wheels, and the ability to extend the handle to pull it or push it along.

Ease of use

I had a very dirty patio to test the Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium on, but this pressure washer is suitable for all sorts of things, from cleaning decking, removing weeds from a patio or even washing your car on a lower setting.

You generally aren't advised to use pressure washers on some patios, due to the chance of too much force blowing any crumbling mortar or grout away, or even causing damage to the slabs themselves. However, we only laid this patio last year and it was a robust limestone, so I was fairly confident that the grout and slabs were in good shape.

Despite the slabs being fairly newly-laid, I was surprised by just how dirty they had become over winter, which was in part because we have lots of trees overhanging it, it is fairly low lying, and we have lots of animals unleashing their business on it (the dachshund and chickens being the worst offenders).

Wheeling out the Kärcher K5 for the pressure washing

I used an outdoor plug socket to plug in the K5, and was relieved to find that the cable had enough length (five metres) to not need a series of extension leads, as I have found with cheaper models in the past. The cable tidy on the machine was also well designed, enough to be able to undo just enough length for what I needed, rather than having to pull the whole lot off. This made it much easier to use.

I struggled to attach the trigger gun to the grey hose until I turned the electric supply off, which I don't know if that was a safety feature, or just me failing to put it together. I then connected my yellow garden hose water supply to the black hose pipe connector on the machine and turned the tap on. This is where I have ended up making myself soaking wet with cheap pressure washers in the past, and was thrilled to see that the connection held perfectly with the K5 Comfort Premium. My garden hose didn't ping off, or come loose to squirt water in my face.

Making a start on washing the patio

Finally, I was ready to give the pressure washer a go on the dirty patio.

I started with the lowest pressure washer setting – the "reduced pressure flat jet", selected by turning the nozzle on the end of the lance. This wetted the patio but didn't really cut through the grime, not the fault of the pressure washer I might add, but it did show just how tough the dirt on the patio was going to be to remove.

Next, I gave the "rotary nozzle" a go, which is like a circle of water and I guess the best setting to use when you have a patio cleaning accessory brush attached, that can be purchased separately. This was a little more powerful than the previous setting, but again not quite powerful enough to lift the sludge and algae off.

Deploying the detergent

The next symbol on the nozzle had bubbles on it and was the detergent setting. After twisting it to the bubbles and hitting the trigger, the product automatically flowed out in a flat jet that wasn't too powerful, or too gentle.

This enabled me to easily and quickly cover the already wet patio slabs with the universal detergent, which I could tell worked well as you could smell the detergent.

It's worth noting that this universal detergent is included with the K5 Comfort Premium, but you can also buy specific detergents that fix to the pressure washer for stone, wood, and cars.

Using the high pressure setting

When I finally got to it, the high-power setting really was a beast, pumping out an impressive 145 bar of pressure in a flat jet, and whipping any dirt, algae and other nasties right off the stone. The grime came off quickly too, leaving a clear line between the cleaned and uncleaned areas. Afterwards, I switched to a lower pressure setting to wash the dirty water off the slabs and finish the job.

The hose pipe connector on the pressure washer held firm throughout, and I didn't get squirted in the face with water once throughout the job, which was a win.

I did have a bit of difficulty when I fully uncoiled the grey pressure washer hose from the reel, as it was a little stiff, making it tricky to straighten out. This meant it did tangle with my yellow garden hose water supply a little. That said, I have yet to find a pressure washer that doesn't do this. Importantly, the hose was very robust and well-made with a rubber-like texture, and therefore unlikely to ever split with normal use.

Final thoughts

My patio is fairly large, and cleaning it with the K5 Comfort Premium pressure washer was actually very speedy, taking an hour maximum to do the whole thing. It was sparkling clean too, with no damage – plus even the dog decided it was so clean she went off to the grass to do her business there instead.

As someone who does not enjoy pressure washing, I did find it surprisingly satisfying blasting the jet at the patio and making nice clean lines in the dirt as I went. And while you will still get a mild arm ache at holding the lance, I did not get soaking wet and dirty for once (whoop), plus it was easy to pack away afterwards. I gave the K5 unit a clean by spraying it over on a low pressure setting, before reeling up the grey hose, tidying the electric cable away, and wheeling it back to the garage.

It was much faster to clean the patio with the Kärcher K5 Comfort Premium compared to the faffing around with models I've used in the past. This meant the body ache I usually feel was hugely reduced, and I saved far more time in setting it up, carrying out the job and also packing it away.

For me, this absolutely justified how the machine gets its name as the "comfort premium", because getting any pressure washing job done swiftly is a lot more comfortable (both physically and mentally) than spending hours and hours trying to finish the job, and clean yourself up afterwards.

Can you ever really get rid of the smell of paint when decorating? According to the many hacks you can find on social media you can. But, do any of them actually work?

While some of them make some sense, we asked leading paint experts if there's any truth in what we're told, or if it's just something you have to put up with if you want to paint a room?

From the ridiculous to the realistic, we reveal what works when you're trying to get rid of the smell of paint, and what's just a cover-up that's a waste of your time, money and effort.

Why does paint smell?

So why does paint smell? You may have noticed yourself that not all types of paint are as pungent as others, so why is that?

"The smell present in some paints is due to higher VOC levels in paint," explains Anna Hill, brand director and colour consultant at Fenwick & Tilbrook.

VOCs, or Volatile Organic Compounds, are generally man-made chemicals that used in paint manufacture. It's what mainly gives paint its distinctive smell. They do fall under regulations in terms of how much paint should contain, but the level of VOCs can also impact how you get rid of any leftover paint, which you need to consider when recycling or disposing of your waste. Oil-based paints for example tend to contain more VOCs along with other types of solvents, so check with your local recycling centre if they will take empty or partly-filled tins of paint you no longer require, as they can't simply be poured down the sink.

In terms of what this means regarding paint smell, the higher the VOCs, the longer the paint smell may linger. "Whilst most off-gassing happens within the first 48 hours or so, some paints can continue to off-gas during a longer curing process," advises Anna.

Paint smell hacks uncovered

1. Place bowls of baking soda or activated charcoal in the room ✅

Some hacks suggest baking soda and activated charcoal as a means of removing paint smell, but do they work?

In theory, yes. Both products have odour absorbing qualities which can mean they could reduce the smell of paint if you place them around your room. Activated charcoal in particular is often used in kitchen extractor fans for odour removal, so it's not a complete myth that it could help to reduce the paint smell if you've been decorating.

The general advice is to place either baking soda or activated charcoal in bowls and distribute them around the places where you have been painting. Leave them overnight and then dispose of them the next day.

“Bowls of baking soda may absorb some odours in small, enclosed spaces," confirms Victoria Yardley, founder of Victory Colours, "while activated charcoal is generally more effective because it is specifically designed to trap airborne compounds."

“Some traditional odour-removal tricks can help a little," she continues, "but most of them only have a limited effect because they are dealing with the smell in the air rather than the cause of it."

The success rate of these hacks? It will help, but is unlikely to remove the smell entirely, but certainly won't do any harm to your air quality in the process. Activated charcoal can also be pricey compared to baking soda, so it may be that budget will need to play a part in deciding which product you try to help remove paint smell.

Shop for baking soda or activated charcoal

2. Use bowls of white vinegar or onion ❎

It's no surprise that these hacks gets mixed reactions when shared with experts.

While white vinegar can have some short term efficacy in jobs such as removing mould from washing machine seals, removing mould from grout, and I often use it with baking soda to help unblock bathroom sinks without having to use a plunger, the fact is, vinegar has its own distinctive odour.

“White vinegar can also help neutralise smells to a degree," says Victoria Yardley, "but as for some of the more old-fashioned suggestions, onions are really more of a decorating myth than a reliable solution. In practice, you are likely to end up with a room that smells faintly of onion rather than solving the paint smell properly," she advises.

The risk with both of these ideas, is that using them is simply a way of replacing one smell with another, and given whenever they are discussed, they come with the caveat of keeping windows open when doing so, it's highly likely that the natural ventilation is doing the hard work here, rather than the white vinegar or onion. The general consensus from the Homebuilding & Renovating team? They're not hacks we've ever tried, or even ones we'd consider using.

3. Add vanilla extract to the paint before use ❎

While this sounds like a nice idea, the risks outweigh the short term benefit of a less offensive smell, says Anna Hill.

"Although there are a lot of ‘solutions’ out there, we would never advise adding anything to paint that hasn’t been recommended by the manufacturer, as you run the risk of altering the chemistry or colour balance of the paint."

"Adding vanilla extract to paint is also not something I would recommend," agrees Victoria Yardley, "as it can interfere with the paint’s formulation and potentially affect the finish."

The best way to get rid of paint smell

In a nutshell, the reality is, there is no way of totally removing the smell of paint when painting walls, ceilings or woodwork. But, there are two main ways of reducing the smell, and helping it dissipate sooner.

1. Shop carefully

The first relates to careful shopping when buying paint and paying attention to what the label say.

“The best way to reduce the strong, headache-inducing paint smell when decorating is to use a high-quality paint with low, trace levels of VOCs, which makes them virtually odourless," says Anna Hill. "Using paint from manufacturers whose products contain only trace levels of VOCs will help to avoid this unpleasant smell or one that lingers."

And Victoria Yardley is in full agreement. “The best way to reduce paint smell is to tackle the issue at source by choosing the right type of paint in the first place," she confirms. "Most of the strong smell people associate with decorating comes from solvents and higher VOC levels, so opting for a modern ultra-low VOC, water-based paint can make a huge difference."

Shop for low VOC paints

2. Use fresh air — it's also free

And secondly, it's about using what nature provides us free of charge – fresh air. Whatever types of windows you have, "keeping windows open to ensure good ventilation will help when painting," says Anna.

“The most reliable way to clear paint smell is good airflow during and after decorating," agrees Victoria. Keeping windows open, encouraging cross-ventilation where possible, and allowing the room to breathe will always be more effective than relying on household hacks alone.

"In combining ventilation with low COV paint, you are reducing the number of odorous compounds being released into the space in the first place, rather than trying to mask them afterwards," she concludes.

With the jury well and truly out on some of these hacks, the solution is clear, the right paint and some good old-fashioned fresh air is the best way to get your home smelling sweeter more quickly.

You could also try using an air purifier such as the Molekule Air Pro to remove any lingering toxins, and to make sure you don't double up on whiffy walls, check out the 5 rules to follow when choosing paint colours.

I don't know whether I have just got a little bit lazy lately, but increasingly I seem to have been putting off all the home improvement jobs that desperately need doing when, in the past, I would have just cracked on and got them done and dusted. It might be that life just got so busy, or maybe, having renovated numerous houses on a DIY basis over the years, I am just done with all that now.

It is 10 years since we completed the extension and renovation of the Edwardian cottage we now call home and the place is definitely in need of a bit of a makeover – particularly the walls and woodwork. The open plan kitchen diner is painted white and, in all honesty, the paintwork has always bugged me a bit. It's not like I don't know how to paint a room but, as I recall, we used a pretty cheap paint and it was a bit of a rush job meaning you can see the brushstrokes, plus bright white really was a bad choice – around cooking areas where there are grease splatters and sauce stains that really let the whole space down.

It isn't just this room that needs repainting though, the whole house could do with a fresh coat – which seems a little daunting. For this reason I am thinking of calling in a professional to get the job done – but I know I could probably save a considerable amount of money by just doing it myself. I decided to ask the experts what they think the best course of action is.

Is DIY painting worth it?

In the past I have happily pulled out the paintbrushes and got on with it. Recently, I redecorated my daughter's room, realising that I need to up my teenage bedroom ideas and, I don't mind saying, that the results were pretty good. However, that was just one room – when it comes to the rest of the house, will the time and effort be worth it?

Jack Reading, marketing manager at Emperor Paint, had some useful advice for me. “The cost saving of going DIY is the obvious benefit, but what people don't always consider is what you can do with that saving," says Jack. "When you're not paying for a service, you can put that money into a better quality product, and that genuinely changes what's available to you. A professional decorator will typically use whatever they're familiar with. When you do it yourself, you get to make that decision. You know your home better than anyone ever will, so you know where the problems are, what needs attention before, and what you want to achieve."

There are other benefits to be had from a DIY approach too, as Cathryn Sanders, head of creative at Earthborn explains.

“Taking on a painting project yourself can be a really enjoyable way to connect with your home," points out Cathryn. "It offers the freedom to explore colour at your own pace, refresh a room over a weekend and feel a genuine sense of satisfaction in the finished result. With thoughtful preparation and a good quality paint, many homeowners can achieve a beautiful outcome, particularly in smaller spaces or on straightforward walls."

What can the professionals do that DIY can't?

The master bedroom was the last room we decorated here and by that time we had kind of run out of steam so we called in a professional to paint – he made it look so easy and the results were perfect which did make me question when to DIY and when to call in the pros.

"Sometimes calling in a professional is simply the right decision," says Jack Reading. "If the scale of a job is beyond what you can realistically manage, if significant remedial work is needed before you can even think about painting, or if the job requires specialist equipment, that's exactly what professionals are there to help with. They're well-versed in getting surfaces to the right condition and have the tools to do it efficiently. Knowing when to bring in help is just as valuable as knowing when you can do it yourself.”

"There are times when calling in a professional decorator can feel like the right choice," picks up Cathryn Sanders. "Larger projects, detailed cabinetry or older walls that require specialist preparation can benefit from experienced hands. Professionals often work more efficiently and bring a level of consistency that helps everything feel seamlessly finished."

How much can you save by DIY painting?

The main driver behind my DIY efforts in the past has been the savings that can be made by tackling jobs like this yourself. According to Checkatrade, the average painter and decorator's day rate currently sits at £325 and while how long it takes to paint a room varies, I'm guessing there's at least three to four days work here meaning I could make considerable savings if I do the job myself.

That said, you still need to factor in buying not just the paint, but also the tools for the job – and this really is no place to scrimp on quality.

"Don't underestimate the difference that good tools and a quality product make," says Jack Reading. "People can spend a lot of time and effort on the preparation and process, and then try to save money on the paint or tools, but that's where it can unravel. The product you choose determines how it looks, how easy it is to apply, and ultimately how long it lasts. Get that right, and everything else you've put into it is really worthwhile.”

"Ultimately, it is less about one option being better than the other, and more about what suits your time, budget and confidence," adds Cathryn Sanders.

How can you achieve professional painting results?

While painting walls on a DIY basis might save you money, will the results ever be as good as the pros can achieve?

"DIY painting does require more than simply opening a tin," says Cathryn Sanders. "Achieving the desired effect requires having the right tools for the job and preparing the walls properly before you start applying paint. For tools, you’ll need a good paint brush for cutting in, a short pile roller, roller tray, sandpaper to prepare uneven surfaces, low adhesive tape to create clean lines, dust sheets and some old clothes for painting in.

"To ensure an even coat, it is worth putting in the prep work before you start painting, including filling any slight cracks or small holes in the walls to allow for an even surface and much smoother result."

“The biggest tip I'd give anyone is to approach it as a process rather than just picking up a brush and getting started," adds Jack Reading. "Decorators achieve professional results because they follow a method. Surfaces are properly prepared, everything is covered and the right tools are used for the job. It can feel tempting to skip those steps and get straight to the painting, but the finish you achieve is only ever as good as the surface you're painting onto. Take the time to do it properly, and the actual painting becomes the easy part."

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FAQs

Does the type of paint you use really make a difference?

While taking a DIY approach to painting can definitely save you money, it is really important to realise that trying to make further savings by buying the least costly paint you can find is not a wise idea at all – there is a difference between expensive and cheap paints.

"When painting an interior yourself, I recommend using a high quality paint to ensure a professional, long-lasting finish," says Laura Hammett, creative director of design studio and homeware brand, Laura Hammett Living. "One of the main differences between premium and trade paints lies in the formulation. Premium paints typically contain a much higher pigment concentration and finer quality binders, which means the colour appears richer, more consistent, and more resistant to fading over time. They also tend to have better coverage, so fewer coats are needed to achieve a flawless result.

"The finish is another important distinction," continues Laura. "Premium paints create a smoother, more refined surface with minimal visible brush or roller marks, which can completely elevate the look and feel of a room. They’re also more durable and washable, making them ideal for busy homes where walls need to stand up to everyday wear without compromising on appearance."

Along with deciding whether I am going to take the DIY or professional route when it comes to repainting, I also need to make a choice on which kitchen wall colours to opt for this time round. White is definitely out for me – I'll be looking for something that adds a little more warmth yet also hides the inevitable stains and smudges that will appear over time.

I always find it fascinating how quickly some interior trends come and go, while others endure, looking as fresh and relevant today as they did when they first burst onto the scene – Shaker kitchens, natural stone flooring and good-quality built-in storage being amongst these timeless choices.

Wallpaper is a funny one here. While it has never exactly been struck off the list of interior design trends in any one year, its popularity has definitely fluctuated and certainly the patterns it comes in are constantly on the move. Paint, on the other hand, never falls out of favour, although certain shades move in and out.

I am aware that my house is in desperate need of redecorating and am toying with the idea of wallpapering certain areas – something I have to admit I have never done before. Paint just seems such an easy way to finish off the walls. With this in mind, I reached out to the experts for their opinions on whether wallpaper or paint is seen as the better option these days – here's what they had to say.

Wallpaper vs paint – is one better than the other?

While both paint and wallpaper are methods of finishing off walls, I realise that they are quite different. But is one of these wall covering ideas better than the other – and why?

"It’s a question I’m asked often, and in reality, the most successful homes use both wallpaper and paint, but in very intentional ways," reveals interior designer Holly Scott, founder of Holly Scott Interior Design. "Wallpaper vs paint isn’t about which is better – it’s about what the space needs."

"Both paint and wallpaper are beautiful ways to shape the mood and style of a room, and choosing between them often comes down to the atmosphere you want to create as well as the level of practicality required," explains Cathryn Sanders, head of creative at Earthborn.

When is paint a better option than wallpaper?

Painting a wall is a job well within the capabilities of most DIYers, making it the go-to option for many – available in a mind-boggling array of shades and in all kinds of finishes to suit every setting you can think of.

"Whether you’re new to painting or a DIY expert, painting tends to be easier than hanging wallpaper as this can require more skill," picks up Cathryn Sanders. "Paint tends to feel more adaptable and approachable, it is usually quicker to apply and it requires fewer specialist tools.

"Paint also allows homeowners to refresh or change a scheme with relative ease, whereas hanging and removing wallpaper can be quite time consuming," continues Cathryn. "Maintenance is also simpler, particularly in busy or humid spaces where washable finishes are easier to look after and can simply be wiped clean. Finally, paint tends to be more affordable than wallpaper, plus you don’t need as many tools which adds to it being more cost-effective overall."

James Mellan-Matulewicz, creative director and interior designer at Bobbi Beck, points out that certain areas of the home are more suited to paint than wallpaper.

"Paint is often better suited to hallways, kitchens and utility rooms than wallpaper," says James. "These are high-traffic areas where marks and scuffs are more likely, and being able to touch up or refresh with paint makes it a much more practical choice over time."

Pros of paint:

• More affordable overall than wallpaper
• Quicker to apply
• Perfect for creating subtle backdrops
• Easy to paint over if you change your mind
• Huge range of colours
• Scrubbable finishes available for high-traffic areas

Cons of paint:

• Multiple coats required
• Cutting-in can be tricky
• Can be messier to apply
• Will chip over time – many experts say wallpaper is the more durable option

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When is wallpaper a better option than paint?

Next up, wallpaper. In the past, it garnered a bit of a bad reputation, mainly due to the slew of quick-fix makeover shows of the 1990s that saw designers using it to create bold feature wall ideas that you just knew would look dated a few months down the line. However, according to the experts, things have changed.

"Wallpaper works beautifully in bedrooms, dining rooms and lounges, where you tend to unwind and spend more time. Even though these can be busy spaces, they’re places to switch off, and adding pattern to the walls injects a more personal, contemporary feel," explains James Mellan-Matulewicz, who goes on to point out that even when it comes to how to hang patterned wallpaper, this task is no longer such a fiddle thanks to modern developments.

"With the rise of paste-the-wall papers, the process has become far more straightforward," says James. "Applying adhesive directly to the wall makes it easier to position and adjust, and overall it can feel less fiddly than expected. Each drop covers a good amount of surface area, and any excess paste is generally easier to clean away than paint splashes."

"Wallpaper comes into its own when you want to add depth, character and a clear design statement," agrees Holly Scott. "I most often use wallpaper behind a bedhead to create a focal point and anchor the room, behind a sofa in a living room to define the seating area and add interest and in cloakrooms to create a sense of drama and personality in a smaller space. I also use it in areas that feel flat or lack character, particularly after a renovation. Wallpaper brings pattern, texture and movement into a space, which is often what’s missing when a room doesn’t quite feel finished."

Wallpaper pros:

• Durable – can last for a decade if applied properly, according to James Mellan-Matulewicz
• Perfect for creating a focal point
• Will help add depth and personality to a characterless space
• Now available in moisture-proof versions

Cons of wallpaper:

• Takes a little practice and patience to hang
• You need the right tools for the job
• Can peel and bubble if walls are not prepared properly
• Bold patterns can be more likely to date

Is wallpaper more expensive than paint?

Overall, paint came out on top in the affordability stakes, but actually, it is important to be aware that there is a difference between cheap and premium paints and, if you want a quality finish, you might find there isn't too much in it when comparing costs between wallpaper and paint.

"In terms of cost, there isn’t a huge difference at the higher end. Premium paints can range from £60 to over £100 per tin, with wallpapers sitting at similar price points," points out James Mellan-Matulewicz. "While paint will cover a larger area initially, it often needs refreshing more regularly. Wallpaper, if chosen well, tends to stay in place for much longer, making it a worthwhile investment."

"Paint is generally more cost effective, particularly in larger spaces," says Holly Scott. "Wallpaper can feel more expensive upfront, but it often delivers more impact in a smaller area. A single wallpapered wall can completely transform a room without the need for multiple layers of styling."

Is paint or wallpaper more durable?

If you are going to the effort of buying materials and spending time carrying this job on a DIY basis, you want to know your chosen finish is going to stand the test of time. So does paint or wallpaper promise a longer lifespan?

"When it comes to longevity, wallpaper often has the edge," reveals James Mellan-Matulewicz. "A good-quality paper, properly applied, can last well over a decade, whereas painted walls typically need refreshing every few years, even with premium finishes. Many wallpapers are now wipeable too, making them a practical option for family homes or busier areas.

"Preparation is key for both, whether you’re painting a house or wallpapering, properly cleaning and priming the walls will make all the difference to the final finish."

Shop timeless wallpapers

Wallpaper or paint – the conclusion

After looking at the pros and cons of both paint and wallpaper, I think that there is no right or wrong option here. In fact, in many cases, a combination of both seems to be the most attractive route.

"Rather than viewing them as competing options, many homeowners now combine the two," picks up Cathryn Sanders. "Paint can create a calm, cohesive backdrop across larger areas, while wallpaper adds focal points, personality and layered interest within a space.”

"The best results come from layering both," agrees Holly Scott. "Paint creates the structure of the scheme – wallpaper or creative detailing is what makes it feel designed. From a design perspective, the biggest decorating mistake I see is relying on paint alone and wondering why the space still feels unfinished. That’s usually where wallpaper, texture or pattern is needed to add depth and interest."

"Ultimately, it comes down to personal style and how you use the space," adds James Mellan-Matulewicz. "Paint is ideal for a quick, easy refresh, but if you’re looking to bring in character and make more of a statement, wallpaper offers far greater impact."

FAQs

Is paint easier to apply than wallpaper?

One of the things that has put me off wallpapering in the past has been the idea that wallpaper is rather unwieldy, making it time-consuming and difficult to hang – one of those DIY jobs best left to the professionals. But am I right or is this just a myth?

"Paint is far more forgiving and is usually the easiest option for homeowners to take on themselves," says Holly Scott. "Wallpaper requires precision. Pattern matching, alignment and finishing details make a big difference to the end result. Paste-the-wall papers have improved accessibility, but for a polished finish, I would still often recommend bringing in a professional."

"While paint has traditionally been seen as the quicker option, wallpaper is shedding its reputation for being overly time-consuming," adds James .

That said, if you’re working to a tight timeline or tackling smaller, more awkward, spaces like cloakrooms or utility areas, paint is usually the more straightforward and practical route.

Spring is the ultimate time for redecorating so if your home is in need for an update be sure to check out these easy DIY projects to get your home looking shipshape in no time.

Putting up a shelf is often cited as one of the easiest DIY jobs you can do – but as I discovered when I first attempted this task, a few fine details of the process can mean the difference between a sound, elegant installation and a wobbly, worrisome bodge job.

So, it’s worth learning how to hang shelves properly. When they’re considerately placed and neatly installed, these fixtures can make an outsized contribution to a room’s function and aesthetic, sharing the work of storing items and elevating prized possessions to your eyeline.

To help you hang shelves successfully, I’ve put together this step-by-step guide with photos of each stage. Whether you’re exploring utility room shelving ideas, kitchen organisation upgrades or shelving for pretty much any other household space, the process below should do the trick.

The security of a shelf is crucial to your safety, as an improperly installed shelf is at risk of falling. If you are not fully confident in your ability to install a shelf securely, seek assistance from a professional.

What to consider before hanging your shelf

Understanding what type of shelf are you going to install is perhaps the most important thing to consider before you make a start. There are several options that you can choose from, usually categorised by the method for attaching them to a wall.

Bracketed shelves are the most common type (and they’re the type shown throughout this walkthrough guide). These shelves are made up of brackets – supporting structural elements which attach to the wall – and the shelf board, which is mounted on top of the brackets.

Floating shelves are also supported by wall-mounted brackets, but the brackets are hidden inside the shelf board for a clean, contemporary look.

Picture ledges are usually smaller and shallower than the average shelf, with a vertical lip that’s intended for keeping framed photos or artworks in place.

Tools and materials you'll need

Once you’ve chosen a type of shelf, it’s time to pick up some tools and materials ready for installation.

“You’ll need to determine the type of wall you have,” says Beth Dale, hardware buying manager at B&Q. “Brick or concrete walls need the right drill bit, wall plugs and screws to make sure the brackets hold firm. In stores, screws and plugs are organised by material, so you can easily pick what you need.

“Other basic tools you’ll need include a spirit level, tape measure, pencil and safety goggles,” she adds.

Here’s a list of tools and materials that I used to hang the shelves shown below:

• Wire detector
• Stud finder (if mounting onto a stud wall)
• Wood* (hardwood, softwood or boarding, appropriately sized)
• Shelf brackets*
• Paint
• Knotting solution
• Sandpaper or sanding tool
• Paintbrush
• Paint stirrer
• Pencil
• Spirit level or laser level
• Tape measure
• Cordless drill (you’ll need a combi drill or hammer drill if drilling into brick or stone)
• Masonry bits (if drilling into brick or stone)
• Screws* (suitable type for the wall material)
• Wall plugs (suitable type for the wall material)
• Safety goggles

*Starred items may not be required if you’re purchasing a ready-made shelf kit instead.

How to hang shelves: Step-by-step

Step 1: placement and anchoring

Choose where your shelf will be mounted. Placing a shelf around head height, or slightly higher, gives good visibility of display items, while lower shelves are often preferred for easy access – especially where a shelf is placed above a kitchen worksurface.

Next, identify where your brackets can be safely anchored. “We recommend that you space brackets 500-700mm apart, depending on the weight of your shelf and the structure of your wall, leaving a 100-150mm overhang at each end,” says Stephanie O'Leary, Metalware Operations Manager at deVOL Kitchens. “You will then be able to fix the brackets into wooden joists or solid masonry using suitable wall plugs for a secure installation.”

It’s crucial to avoid drilling into the wall where wires or pipework are beneath the surface. Use a wire detector to scan the relevant section of wall and identify any areas where you cannot install brackets.

If hanging your shelves from a brick wall, any place that’s free of wires or pipes should be safe for mounting the shelf. If hanging shelves from a stud wall, then it’s best to screw the shelf brackets into studs. These are the framing components that give the wall its strength and structure. Use a stud finder to locate the studs and mark their positions with tape.

For stud walls where the positions of the studs will not accommodate the shelf brackets, installing drywall anchors into the wall is a potential solution. “If you use appropriate plasterboard fixings designed to support the weight of the shelf, it shouldn’t sag or come away from the wall when you start adding belongings to it,” says Dale.

Hold the shelf board against the wall in the desired position, and check its level with a spirit level or laser level. This isn’t just an aesthetic consideration – it will need to be level so that items can stand on it. Use a pencil to mark a line on the wall where your shelf will go.

Shop wood, brackets and stud detector

Step 2: preparing the shelf

If you’ve bought a ready-made shelf kit, you can skip this step. Personally, I prefer assembling my own shelves from timber and brackets, as this gives me full control over the dimensions, paintwork and finished look of the shelf.

First, you may need to cut the board to the desired length. Use a tape measure, pencil and ruler to mark a line to cut along, then use a cutting tool to cut the shelf to size. I did this using a Ryobi circular saw.

Next, sand the edges of your shelf board to achieve the desired finish. I used an Erbauer orbital sander to do this quickly and effectively. Drill pilot holes into the underside of the shelf where the brackets will screw into the wood.

If painting your shelf, you’ll now need to do a few extra steps before application. “Good prep really is the secret to a great finish – it makes all the difference to how your paint looks and lasts,” says Anna Hill, brand director and colour consultant at Fenwick & Tilbrook Paint. “If you’re working with softwood, seal any knots first with a water-based knotting solution or stain blocker, especially on woods prone to tannin bleed.”

You might also need to undercoat the shelf with primer before applying your chosen topcoat – although some paints, including the Fenwick & Tilbrook Interior & Exterior Eggshell paint shown in the photos, are self-priming and can be applied directly to wood. (I accidentally undercoated before realising this!)

“When you’re ready to paint, start with a thin first coat, then build up with an additional coat (or two for more vibrant colours) for a durable, even finish,” says Hill. “A light sand between coats will help everything bond nicely. Once you’re done, try to give the surface a few days to properly harden before using it. Around four to seven days is ideal, particularly for shelves or areas that will see regular use.”

Shop tools, wood treatment and paint

Step 3: installing the brackets and shelf

Screw your brackets securely into the pilot holes in your shelf board, then hold the shelf up to the wall where you marked your pencil line previously. Check that the shelf is level, then use your pencil to mark the wall through the mounting holes in the brackets, before putting the shelf back down. (This is a job for two people.)

Drill holes in the wall where the wall plugs (or drywall anchors, depending on the wall material as discussed above) will go. My wall is brick, so I had to use masonry bits and a hammer drill setting on my combi drill in order to bore into the material. Drill to the appropriate depth and width for your plugs or anchors, then tap these soundly into place using a hammer.

You can now mount your shelf. Hold it up to the wall, and use screws to fix it into place through the brackets. Tighten the screws well so that the brackets secure firmly to the wall.

Step 4: finishing touches

Your shelf is now ready to use (provided that the paint is dry), but you might choose to take some extra steps for a superior finish.

If the shelf board has picked up any gouges or scrapes, you can fill these using wood filler, then sand the filled surface and touch it up with your chosen paint. Some DIYers also protect their shelves by treating the wood with a water-repellent wood protector.

Now’s the time to adorn your shelf with your chosen items. Bear in mind the strength of your shelf when selecting which belongings to store on it. Because my shelf is securely fixed into a brick wall, I felt confident enough to load it with heavy cookbooks and drinks bottles.

FAQs

Can you paint reclaimed wood to use as shelving?

Yes, if the wood is in sturdy enough condition to hold your belongings and does not have a critical issue such as rot.

“For previously painted or treated wood, a little more prep is needed,” says Hill. “Give the surface a light sand to create a key for the new paint to grip onto. If the existing coating is oil-based (or if you’re not quite sure what’s on there) then it’s best to use a water-based multi-surface primer first, just to be safe.

“After priming, lightly sand using a fine paper. Then apply a thin first coat of eggshell, followed by one or two additional coats, sanding lightly in between. Once everything’s painted, allow a few days for the finish to fully harden before putting the shelf to work – it’s worth the wait for a long-lasting result.”

What is the best material to make a shelf from?

Several types of wood and board can lend themselves well to use as a shelf. The best option to choose depends largely on how the shelf will be used.

“Picking the right shelf material matters just as much as the fixings,” says Dale. “For lightweight decorative shelving, such as “floating” shelves, MDF or laminated boards work well, and you can paint them to match your room. But if you’re storing books, kitchenware, or anything heavy, go for thicker boards or solid timber.”

Once you've successfully hung your first shelf, you might find yourself wondering which other parts of your home could be enhanced with a little elevated storage. For inspiration, see our guides to bedroom shelving ideas and how to build pantry shelves.

You can’t make your loft storage ideas a reality without installing a loft hatch. More than just a hole in the ceiling, this feature brings together a panel, frame, and sometimes an integrated ladder to make the loft space accessible.

The standard of installation is important – not only for safe access to the loft space, but also to the aesthetic of the room below and for your home’s energy efficiency. Get your loft hatch installation wrong, and you could render this feature unsightly, ineffective and perhaps even unsafe.

Many households choose to have their loft hatch installed professionally, but if you’re thinking of installing your own loft hatch, this article is here to help.

Pre-installation considerations

Types of loft hatches

There are a few different types of loft hatches, with different installation requirements and loft access methods.

“Hinged drop-down hatches with integrated ladders are a popular choice, particularly if you plan to use your loft regularly,” says Ben White, Ladders Buyer at B&Q. “When installing one, it is important to fix the frame securely to the ceiling joists, take time over your measurements, and follow all of the manufacturer’s instructions carefully so the ladder opens smoothly and the hatch closes flush and tight.

“Ladders that are sold as complete kits – including both the hatch and the ladder in one unit – are often more DIY-friendly than buying a ladder on its own, as everything is designed to fit together and typically comes with comprehensive installation guidance. By contrast, installing just a ladder may require a separate hatch to be fitted first, adding extra steps and complexity.”

Of course, some households prefer to access their loft by using a standalone ladder and a simpler loft hatch. “A common option for people looking to install their own loft hatch is a simple push-up hatch.” says White. “These are slightly easier and quicker to install, but usually need a separate ladder for access, so they can be slightly storage dependent.

Similar to push-up hatches, a hinged loft hatch can be swung open, rather than relying on a push-up panel.

Some loft hatches are insulated, mostly to prevent heat from escaping into the loft from the floor below. Loft hatches sometimes hinder a building’s thermal performance, so choosing an insulated model could be a smart move.

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Safety requirements

If you’re doing your own loft hatch installation, it’s important to ensure your safety before the work starts.

You must be aware of the structural implications of cutting into the ceiling, especially where load-bearing joists within the loft may be affected. If adjustments to joists are unavoidable, you must consult with a structural engineer before undertaking the alternations. As a rule, it is safer and much simpler to position a loft hatch between loft joists, avoiding structural changes to the roof.

The ceiling material should also be considered. “Before any ceiling work, pause and make sure you’ve had appropriate professional advice or testing for asbestos, particularly in older homes, as disturbing materials can pose serious health risks,” says White.

Learn how to use a wire detector and check for wires or piping in the ceiling where your loft hatch will be situated, then turn off the mains electricity supply before commencing the work. Use a good stepladder or stable platform while working at height, and handle tools carefully. (Always familiarise yourself with new tools at ground level before you use them at height.)

What you’ll need

• Dust mask
• Goggles
• Stepladder
• Plunge-cutting power tool (e.g. reciprocating saw or oscillating multi-tool)
• Tape measure
• Set square
• Pencil
• Loft hatch kit (or you can make your own, using architrave and MDF)
• Timber
• Wall plugs
• Hammer
• Screws
• Drill-driver or combi drill
• Caulk
• Skeleton gun
• Wood filler
• Sandpaper
• Sub-floor insulation (optional addition for uninsulated panels)

Installing a loft hatch is difficult, and incorrect installation can endanger your own safety and the building’s structural integrity. Before starting this challenging project, assess your own capabilities realistically, and seek professional help from a carpenter or structural engineer if you’re in any doubt. If you have purchased a loft hatch kit that came with instructions, prioritise the manufacturer's guidance over the advice below.

How to install a loft hatch step-by-step

1. Planning and preparation

First, choose the spot where your loft hatch will be located. “As a rule, I try to position the hatch over a hallway or landing, between two ceiling joists (to avoid unnecessary structural work), and where it won’t clash with doors or stairs when open,” says carpenter, Mark Mansfield.

The best spot for a loft hatch is usually close to the apex of the roof where trusses and diagonal supports are not in the way. If your loft already has a boarded section for storage, it clearly makes sense to position your loft hatch where it can allow access to the boarding.

For loft hatches with an integrated ladder, you’ll need enough floorspace below to accommodate the ladder. “Measure your ceiling height carefully, and make sure to bear in mind where your ladder will go,” says White.

The maximum width of a loft hatch is generally dictated by the space between joists in the loft space (these gaps are called ‘centres’). You’ll need to buy (or make) a loft hatch to suit your ceiling. Loft hatches with an integrated ladder are generally longer than a standard 22" x 30" hatch.

Before confirming your loft hatch position, use a wire detector like this Bosch wall scanner from Screwfix to check the relevant section of ceiling for underlying wiring or pipes. “The big mistake DIYers make is cutting first, then checking the structure and electrics or pipework second,” says Mansfield.

Using a tape measure, ruler and pencil, mark where the four-sided opening for your loft hatch will be.

2. Cut the opening

Cutting into ceiling plaster is messy, so make sure you’re covered safely by your PPE before you start, and place a dust sheet on the floor.

First, cut a small pilot hole in the centre of your marked loft hatch, to ensure you are able to cut through the material freely. Next, cut along your marked pencil lines using your plunge-cutting tool of choice (such as an oscillating multi-tool with a plunge blade fitted). The edges of the space might look slightly ragged after cutting, but these will ideally be covered by the loft hatch frame.

3. Adding noggins (and adjusting joists, if unavoidable)

To ensure your new loft hatch has a robust and level perimeter, you’ll need to install new timber framing (pieces of wood called ‘noggins’) on the insides of the joists where they will meet the hatch. Cut pieces of softwood timber to size so that they can meet the joists and form a frame around the loft hatch opening, then attach these noggins to the joists using structural screws and something like the Ryobi One cordless impact driver.

It’s best avoided, but in a minority of cases, adjustments to joists in the loft space might be required to make space for a loft hatch. You should only take this extreme measure after consulting with a structural engineer.

“Only alter a joist if it’s unavoidable and you are confident and competent, because structural integrity matters,” says Mansfield. “If you have no choice but to cut a joist, you must support the existing joist, cut it cleanly and install doubled trimmers at either side.”

4. Fitting the frame

The exact steps involved in fitting your loft hatch frame will depend partly on the type of hatch you’ve chosen. Loft hatch kits and integrated loft hatches will often have additional requirements, but in most cases, the key step is fitting the frame.

To do this, take the frame from your kit (or make frame pieces out of architrave with 45-degree cut ends) and position this around the loft hatch opening. Depending on the type of loft hatch, this could be either on the inside of the opening, or on the ceiling surrounding it. If you’re installing a push-up loft hatch, bear in mind that the frame must overlap the opening far enough to support the door panel.

Drill through the wood and slightly into the supporting ceiling or internal timber to mark the places where the frame will be fixed with screws. (I personally would use two or three screws to hold each piece of a standard-size push-up loft hatch frame).

Put the frame back down and drill narrower holes in the places where the frame will be fixed. Soundly install wall plugs into these holes, and then screw the frame into place. If you have made your own frame, countersink the holes on the face of the frame before installing it, so that they can be neatly filled over later. Where relevant, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to complete the loft hatch installation.

“The lining frame must be flush and square, level and securely fixed into the joists or trimmers,” says Mansfield. “I always pack and shim where required, use PU adhesive as well as screws to ensure there’s zero movement, and I seal gaps with expanding foam (minimal expansion type). A sloppy frame equals cracked plaster and draughts.”

5. Finishing

Finally, you can add the door element to your loft hatch. Push-up loft hatches need only a simple wooden panel, which you can rest on the frame. Hinged loft hatches are somewhat more complicated: the hinge must be mounted according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Meanwhile, installing an integrated ladder system is far more difficult – and arguably best left to a professional. “Integrated ladder systems are heavier and need two-person installation,” says Mansfield. “They also require accurate squaring and strong fixing points.”

With your loft hatch door and/or integrated ladder installed, you can move onto finishing. Caulk around the edges of the frame to ensure a tight seal, fill over any visible screws with wood filler, and consider painting the hatch to suit your interior design scheme.

FAQs

What are some of the key mistakes to avoid when installing a loft hatch?

Installing a loft hatch is a challenging DIY project with many potential pitfalls.

“I regularly see hatches that have been cut off-centre and not square, cases where no trimmers have been installed around cut joists, or massive air gaps leading to cold draughts,” says Mansfield.

“Other common problems are a lack of insulation above the hatch, warping of the hatch door, and some instances where the frame has been fixed only to plasterboard – yes, really.”

In some cases, it’s probably best to commission a professional to install your loft hatch for you. “Call a carpenter if your loft hatch needs enlarging, you’re installing a ladder system, you’re cutting across joists or if you’re unsure about the structural layout in your loft,” says Mansfield. “If it involves structure, it’s not just a DIY weekend job.”

Which building regulations relate to loft hatches?

Several parts of the UK building regulations relate to loft hatches and access to the loft space.

“Part L – Conservation of Fuel and Power states that loft hatches must be insulated and draught sealed, achieving similar thermal performance to the surrounding ceiling – old, uninsulated hatches fail this today,” says Mansfield.

“Under Part A – Structure, any joist modification must not weaken the structure, and proper trimming is required, while under Part K – Access, safe access to the loft space is required if it is intended to be used as storage space or for other purposes.”

Looking to improve your existing loft hatch for better access? Read out guide on how to make a loft hatch bigger for specific guidance. And while you're up there, consider adding these types of loft ventilation to stop condensation in the attic.

During a period of time living overseas when I could only work on a freelance basis, I decided to hone my interior skills by undertaking an interior design course. It was during this time I learnt about the 60:30:10 rule and from that point on, I've never looked back.

I'd always followed the rule of three when choosing colours, or displaying items, but the 60:30:10 rule helped me understand even more about getting the proportions and scale right. It's not just a passing fad either, it's a philosophy you can use across your interiors, regardless of what colours or interior design trends are in fashion.

It's certainly stood the test of time in my homes, and it's a rule I'm still using 20 years later. Here's how you can apply it when renovating or building a home.

Using the 60:30:10 rule for colour selection

The 60:30:10 rule recommends that you choose three main colours when decorating a room, and then give each of these colours a purpose, and percentage of coverage in your plans.

Your main colour is naturally assigned to the 60% category and is known as the dominant colour. This is the colour you choose for your walls, or larger items such as flooring and pieces of furniture – your sofa and living room carpet colours for example if you're considering living room ideas. In essence it's designed to be your backdrop.

The 30% colour, also referred to as the secondary colour, is for use in elements such as feature wall ideas, window coverings or upholstery. It should complement your dominant colour, but equally can be used to provide contrast and depth to your scheme.

And finally, the 10% colour choice is where you can often have some fun with your ideas. It's the accent colour that you can use to add some fun or magic to your interiors and can be used in less permanent ways, such as with cushions, artwork or general decor.

But, as with any paint trend, it's important not to get too hung up on the exact science of the numbers. "Think of it as a framework rather than a formula," recommends Katerina Tchevytchalova, founder of K'Arte Design. "Use it as a starting point when deciding how colour should be distributed across walls, furniture, soft furnishings and accessories."

Choosing your 60:30:10 colours

So how do you choose your paint colours and decide which proportion you assign to each one?

“Look to create a visual balance within your scheme," says Helen Shaw, director of marketing (international) at Benjamin Moore. "The main colour should be 60% of the scheme, 30% the secondary and 10% an accent.

"The accent colour can help to break up an ultra-contrasting scheme and allows the look to be tied together," she explains. " Rich and dramatic, or pale and interesting, you can look at all variants of shades to create a balanced design scheme.”

"It's about creating a sense of visual hierarchy, so a room feels cohesive rather than overwhelming," adds Katerina Tchevytchalova. "One element takes the lead, another supports it, and the final layer adds contrast and interest. When the proportions are right, everything feels intentional, and that last 10% is often where the personality of a room really comes through."

Here are some examples of it at play, with the 60:30:10 colour breakdown explained. It's not always an exact mathematical equation, but understanding how you can use the rule is what results in a completed and cohesive interior design scheme.

1. Using the 60:30:10 rule in hallways

Distinguishing between the 60 and 30 colours can often be harder where bold colours are at play, as shown in this hallway idea. In this instance, while the staircase is a massive feature, it's the blue which clearly dominates this space, and around which the scheme has been designed. The subtle shot of green as the accent colour is also perfectly referenced in the hallway flooring, neatly tying the whole scheme together.

2. Doubling down in bedrooms

If you're a fan of colour drenching or colour capping, it doesn't mean you can't still follow the 60:30:10 colour rule. In fact when using such a bold bedroom colour as red, it's often wise to have some lighter and contrasting shades to break up the overall look.

Here, the red dominates, but is softened by the paler wooden tones of the flooring and furniture. It's then complemented with a bolt of bright yellow on the bedside lighting, bedding and curtains. A warm and sunny bedroom idea that would work perfectly in a loft conversion bedroom with a balcony.

3. Using it in a light and airy living room

The ratios in this living room scheme are weighted more heavily in favour of two main shades – white and blue. The neutral flooring links well to the white, making this the dominant or 60% colour. However, look carefully and you will see signs of an accent colour in the form of ochre. It's subtle but enough of a pop of contrast to make this modern living room with its bespoke media wall both interesting, and sophisticated.

Shop for 60:30:10 painting tools

Other ways of using the 60:30:10 rule

So does the 60:30:10 rule only apply to paint colours? No, say the experts, citing how it can apply to most elements of interior design and decor.

“The 60-30-10 rule isn’t limited to paint, it can be applied across all elements of a room," says Helen Shaw. "The main 60% is often your walls and larger, more permanent features, such as flooring or key pieces of furniture.

"The 30% acts as your accent colour – this could come through chairs, bedding, rugs or window coverings such as curtains. From a paint perspective, you might use it on an accent wall or even the ceiling, but textiles and furnishings work just as well to introduce contrast and visual interest without dominating the space," she explains.

Katerina Tchevytchalova agrees, telling us that, "the same principle can be applied to materials, finishes and textures. You might have a dominant stone running through a kitchen on the worktops and kitchen island, a secondary timber element adding warmth, and a smaller proportion of metal as the accent. Approached that way, it becomes a much more versatile and relevant tool for the way designers actually work today."

FAQs

Does using more than one shade still count as one colour?

The jury is out on this one, as personally I've always taken the approach that one colour can include different shades. In my open plan kitchen for example, it had blue walls and a navy kitchen when I moved in. Some walls were white and there was a wooden floor. I've added blue sofas, chairs, cushions and accessories, but not in the exact same shade. This to me is my 60% colour – even if the blue is lighter or darker in certain places.

However, if you're after a more tonal finish, Helen Shaw suggests different shades should be considered as new colours.

“When you’re following the 60-30-10 rule, different shades of the same colour are typically treated as a second and third colours, as seen in a monochromatic scheme," she says.

"While a monochromatic palette is built from one base hue, the variation in shades introduces enough contrast to read as separate elements within a space," Helen continues. "That means a lighter or darker version of your main colour can effectively take on the 30% portion, rather than being grouped entirely into the dominant 60%.

"This approach is a great way to keep a scheme cohesive while still adding depth and visual interest," she notes. "By layering shades of the same colour, you create subtle contrast and dimension, without needing to introduce a completely different hue.”

Is this the only interior design rule I should use?

"I'd recommend treating the 60:30:10 rule more as a point of reference rather than a strict rule," notes Katerina Tchevytchalova. "It's a helpful tool to revisit if a scheme feels slightly off, but it's rarely something designers apply rigidly from the outset.

"Interiors today tend to focus on subtle layering rather than clearly defined colour blocks," she continues. "Materials such as timber, stone and natural fabrics already introduce their own tonal variation, so the balance and flow feel more organic and less strict and formulaic.

"Layer materials and textures to create depth and warmth, and mix old and new pieces to give a space character and longevity," recommends Katerina. "Those two things together are what make a room feel genuinely considered rather than simply decorated."

Looking for ways to adopt the 60:30:10 rule in your home, perhaps in a new kitchen extension? Before you finalise the colours you want to use, take a look at what experts recommend for getting the perfect kitchen flooring and cabinet colour combination. It can help you ensure that the colour proportions in such an important space are balanced in the best way.

Professional carpenters tend to have many types of saws in their workshop – but if you’re a keen DIYer or hobbyist woodworker, budget or space restrictions might mean you need to choose: track saw vs table saw.

There are similarities between these tools – both options are among the easiest ways to get straight cuts with a circular saw blade. However, you’ll also find important differences between the two, and using the most appropriate option will contribute to the safety, ease and success of your projects.

This article is here to help you choose the right type of saw for your projects: track saw or table saw. Read on for expert advice provided by a saw brand and a power tool retailer, plus some recommended tools of each type.

Table saws

A table saw has a fixed circular blade, which is mounted into a table that provides a worksurface to rest your workpiece (e.g. a wooden board). These tools incorporate a fence and mitre gauge to help guide your cuts.

“The blade sticks up through a flat tabletop surface and cuts material being passed across it – so instead of moving the saw through the material, you push the material through the blade,” says James Curran, head of D2C marketing at Evolution Power Tools. “

“Table saws can make long, straight, accurate cuts (rip cuts) in timber or in sheet materials like plywood, MDF or OSB. They produce consistent repeated cuts and handle crosscuts with a mitre gauge or sliding table.”

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Track saws

A track saw is a portable type of circular saw, mounted on an aluminium guide rail.

“Unlike a standard circular saw that is guided by hand, the track saw locks onto its rail to produce perfectly straight, splinter-free cuts,” says Curran.

“They can work on the floor, on a workbench or on-site, and you can use them to make long, clean, precise straight cuts, or make plunge cuts in the middle of a panel.”

In many cases, a standard circular saw can be converted into a track saw when used with a compatible track accessory.

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Which is better: track saw or table saw?

Precision and finish

Either a track saw or a table saw can cut precisely with a very good finish. Which is best largely comes down to the workpieces you’re cutting (as well as your cutting technique).

Table saws are particularly effective at neatly cutting smaller pieces – although you must take great care while guiding the workpiece towards the blade. Meanwhile, track saws are regarded as a good choice for making long cuts with clean edges. “Their anti‑splinter strips and fine‑tooth blades give very clean cuts with less tear-out, which makes them great for cutting kitchen worktops, plywood and laminate panels,” says Curran.

Winner: it depends what you’re cutting

Power and speed

If you have some repetitive woodworking tasks on your hands and you’d like to maximise the power and speed of cutting, then a table saw is likely your best bet.

“They are typically more powerful than track saws, and their larger motors and higher torque make them better for repeated heavy ripping,” says Curran.

“Table saws are faster and more consistent for cutting cabinetry or furniture, and for ripping long boards such as hardwoods or construction timber.”

Of course a good track saw will still be far quicker than alternatives such as a handheld saw or even an ordinary circular saw.

Winner: table saw

Ease of use

Using either a table saw or a track saw is achievable for many DIYers, but Dave Prime, procurement director at Power Tool World, believes that track saws are best for beginners. “They edge the table saw in terms of ease of use and safety, and they make it easier to get a higher quality finish to your work,” he says.

“Track saws require minimal set up, whereas a table saw will take more time to set up and adjust. There is also a safety element as the table saw has an exposed blade that requires guards and demands better technique.”

It’s worth bearing in mind that a table saw will take up far more space in your workshop (or shed!) than a track saw would. “Table saws are obviously bulkier and they’re usually designed to be the centrepiece of your workshop, whereas track saws are more portable,” says Prime.

Curran adds that with a table saw, “there’s worse risk when the saw is used incorrectly, due to the exposed blade”.

Winner: track saw

Versatility

With either a track saw or a table saw, the size and material of the blade arguably has a greater impact on versatility than the type of saw. The larger the blade is, the thicker the material it can cut, while multi-material blades open up the possibility of cutting materials such as steel and aluminium, as well as wood.

With that said, one type of saw is definitely superior to the other when it comes to cutting wide workpieces. “Track saws are the more versatile choice for sheet materials,” says Curran, “They’re perfect for cutting down large boards such as full 8 x 4 (2,440 x 1,220mm) sheets, which you wouldn’t be able to manoeuvre over a table saw without using extensions.”

Winner: track saw

Which saw should you choose?

“Buying the right saw is one of the more considered decisions you’ll make when kitting out your workspace or jobsite, and a lot of the time it comes down to specific applications,” says Prime. “Think carefully about the material you’re going to be cutting, and the types of cut you need to make before purchasing. Table saws are generally more suited to repeat cuts whereas track saws tend to be used for more unique cuts.”

Both track saws and table saws have their benefits. If you can spare the money and space, and if you do a lot of DIY or craft (especially carpentry), then it might be worthwhile having both of these tools handy for your projects.

If you’re only going to buy one of these types of saws, here are our recommendations:

Buy a track saw if…

• You’d prefer the most user-friendly option
• You’re low on storage space
• You want a tool that’s similar to a regular circular saw, but with better accuracy

Buy a table saw if…

• You want the best possible tool to use as the focal point of a workshop
• You want to cut lots of pieces quickly for major DIY or craft projects
• You’re aiming for an excellent finish with little need for sanding after cutting

FAQs

How to choose the right blade for a track saw or table saw?

Most track saws come with a standard circular saw blade, designed for cutting various wood products including softwoods, hardwoods, plywood and MDF, as well as certain other materials including plasterboard. If these are the types of materials you’ll be cutting, the standard blade should do the job – but for other materials, you may require a different type.

“We recommend using one of our Evolution multi‑material TCT blades, which cut materials including metals, composites and laminates, and wood with embedded nails, so you can move confidently between different tasks without constantly swapping blades,” says Curran.

For high-quality carpentry, you might also use a fine-tooth blade. “This type has a thinner curve and more teeth, so it causes less splinters,” Curran notes. “You’d use them to make furniture such as cabinets.”

Are track saws and table saws better than circular saws?

Track saws and table saws are somewhat similar to circular saws. They also use a circular blade, and they’re used for many of the same cutting tasks, especially in woodworking projects.

Typically, the advantage to a track saw or table saw is greater accuracy and a finer finish, compared to the results of cutting with a circular saw without a track. They are preferred by professionals, but they tend to come at a higher price and take up more storage space.

There are all sorts of cutting tools out there. If you're still in doubt over which type to use in your DIY projects, our jigsaw vs circular saw and best reciprocating saws guides could help get you on the right track.

No one wants stains spoiling their smart and attractive wallpaper. But removing them isn’t always easy. Much will depend on the type of wallpaper adorning your walls and the source of the stain. You might be lucky and have a stain that's easy to remove, but you might not.

Matching the right stain removal solution to the wallpaper type is key to success. The method of application is important. Get overexcited with your cleaning tools, and your wallpaper will suffer. Here you find expert advice, tips and techniques to save your wallpaper. Or you’ll have to learn how to wallpaper pretty quickly.

How wallpaper gets stained

Wallpaper can see a lot of action in certain parts of the home, but not so much elsewhere. This means that there can be a wide range of stains to deal with.

Heather Nixon, sustainability, NPD and regulatory manager at eco-friendly cleaning product manufacturer Bio-D, points out a few scenarios that can lead to unwanted stains: “Scuffs from moving furniture and larger items around the home, alongside felt tip pen stains are common.” And let's not forget, “Pets regularly brushing against walls can also create general buildup on wallpaper.”

However, there are plenty of other possibilities, says James Mellan-Matulewicz, CEO & Creative Director at Bobbi Beck: “Common wallpaper stains include condensation water marks, coffee spills, hand prints or grease marks, mould or mildew and installation wallpaper paste stains.”

Shop these produce to help remove wallpaper stains

Options for wallpaper stains

With a wide variety of wallpaper stains to contend with, it makes sense that you will need different solutions to deal with them. Here, cleaning experts reveal a range of options for cleaning wallpaper.

1. Dry wipe cleaning

Before you start its a good idea to clean the surrounding areas so you're not making matters worse. James Mellan-Matulewicz says, “Before trying any damp sponges or cleaning solutions, try using a vacuum with a brush attachment or a feather duster to remove any light debris.”

2. Warm water and soap

A mixture of warm water and a mild soap is the go-to option, shares Georgina Shepherd, cleaning expert at Housekeep, “It’s ideal for everyday cleaning and general marks like fingerprints and light dirt.”

She adds, “Mix a few squirts of washing-up liquid into a bowl of warm water. Lightly damp your micro-fibre cloth with the soapy solution and gently blot the area till the stain lifts.”

3. Talcum powder

This is a good choice when moisture can ruin the wallpaper, shares Shepherd, “Talcum powder is a great way to get rid of grease marks on delicate wallpaper that can't handle moisture.” She adds, “Sprinkle a small amount onto greasy marks and leave it to absorb the oil. Once dry, gently brush it away with a soft cloth or brush.”

4. Baking soda paste

Natural and safe baking soda is a great multipurpose cleaner shares James Mellan-Matulewicz, “Baking soda mixed with a small amount of water can create a gentle cleaning paste. This works well for slightly tougher stains such as grease marks, food stains or light scuffs, acting as a mild abrasive."

He continues, “Apply the paste lightly with a soft cloth, gently rub the affected area, then wipe clean with a damp cloth. This is not recommended on non-vinyl wallpapers.”

5. Sugar soap

Mellan-Matulewicz says, “Sugar soap is a strong cleaning solution commonly used to remove grease and heavy dirt from painted walls before decorating.” However, use a concentrated option so you can dilute to suit your needs.

Mellan-Matulewicz continues, “It can occasionally be used on durable vinyl or washable wallpapers where there are stubborn grease stains. In these cases, it should be well diluted and applied gently.”

6. White vinegar

A popular and budget-friendly cleaning solution. Shepherd shares where it works best, “It is effective on light stains, odours, mould and mildew.” Mellan-Matulewicz adds, “The natural acidity helps break down these types of stains.”

To use, Shepherd says, “Mix equal parts water and white vinegar. Dip your microfibre cloth into the solution so it's lightly damp and blot the area.”

Mellan-Matulewicz adds, “It should be applied sparingly with a soft cloth and tested on a small hidden area first, as it may affect traditional or non-washable wallpapers.”

7. Specialist cleaning sprays

“For tougher staining like crayon or ink, a specialist wall or upholstery cleaner can be more effective,” shares Shepherd.

But be warned, they can ruin wallpaper. Shepherd says, “Make sure to follow the instructions on the bottle and test a small area first to ensure it doesn't strip any colour.”

Cleaning wallpaper stains

A simple suggestion before you start cleaning comes from Mellan-Matulewicz: “It’s important to test any cleaning product on a small, hidden area first when removing a wallpaper stain, and always start with the gentlest option.”

He continues, “To avoid any damage to your wallpaper, always clean it carefully and make sure you are using the right tools, starting with the least abrasive method first. A soft sponge is one of the softest and safest tools to use on stained wallpaper. Ensure the sponge is lightly damp rather than overly saturated.”

Heather Nixon suggests a solid bar product like Bio-D’s Laundry & Stain Remover Bar. She says, “Simply wet the bar and gently rub onto the affected area, before wiping with water and a clean cloth. This works as the surfactants in the bar help to lift dirt.”

Shepherd offers some simple advice to follow, “Lightly blot the affected areas. Don’t scrub as this can remove colour, damage the pattern or even tear the wallpaper!”

Mellan-Matulewicz’s final piece of advice is, “Never use a wet microfiber cloth on wallpaper as it becomes incredibly abrasive.”

What not to do when cleaning wallpaper stains

There are a few things to avoid when cleaning wallpaper stains, as they will simply ruin the wallpaper. The experts are very much in agreement with what you shouldn’t use and do.

Avoid abrasive tools and harsh scrubbing

Shepherd from Housekeep shares the tools not to use: “Scouring pads, stiff brushes or rough cloths can scratch and permanently damage wallpaper.” Heather from Bio-D adds, “Avoid scrubbing too vigorously as this could damage the wallpaper, worsening the damage.”

This can flatten the wallpaper's texture, remove the printed layer, and create shiny patches that will be clearly visible in certain lighting.

Be careful with chemicals

Shepherd says, “Mould cleaners & bleach can strip colour and weaken the adhesive.” Do not spray cleaning products directly onto wallpaper. Spray onto a cloth or sponge. The liquid will run down the wall, leaving marks, and can get into seams and behind the paper.

Keep water to a minimum

Shepherd says, “Too much water can cause bubbling, peeling, or staining. Always use a lightly damp cloth to avoid this.” Mellan-Matulewicz adds, “Use a damp sponge and don’t overly wet it. If the wallpaper is soaked, the adhesive can begin to soften, and the wallpaper will peel away from the wall and can show a water stain. This can be particularly apparent on traditional non-vinyl, matte wallpapers.”

Say no to magic erasers

“I would personally avoid magic erasers,” shares Heather Nixon, “These work like micro sandpaper and can remove the top layer of your wallpaper." Only try on stubborn stains on vinyl wallpaper, and use a light touch.

FAQ

Can I use a steamer to clean wallpaper?

On the face of it, a steam cleaner might seem a viable option, but in reality, it's rarely a good choice. Mellan-Matulewicz explains why, “Steam creates a large amount of heat and moisture and when introduced to wallpaper, it can easily cause damage.”

He adds, “It can also soften the adhesive behind the paper, causing it to loosen and start to peel away from the wall.” Other issues, including water marks and discolouration, can also occur, particularly on PVC-free wallcoverings.

However, Mellan-Matulewicz points out that it could be used in specific situations: “Steam cleaning is not something we would ever recommend; however, it may only be suitable in very limited situations, such as durable vinyl or commercial-grade washable wallcoverings.”

He adds, “Even then, it should be done with extreme care and from a distance so the wall is not saturated with steam.”

Cleaning wallpaper stains is a cost-effective solution to restore the wallpaper. However, there may be a time when new wallpaper is the only answer. Check out our hallway wallpaper ideas, bedroom wallpaper ideas and kitchen wallpaper ideas for inspiration for your next wallpaper project.

If the thought of flat pack furniture fills you with dread, I hear you. I've put countless pieces of it together in my lifetime, and not always to great success. Experience combined with a lack of spare time meant I invested in furniture for my mum's new living room that claimed to be 'partially built'.

I'll admit to not investigating what this term really meant due to the fact I ordered the items late one night on my mobile, so when the boxes of furniture arrived, I was surprised to see them clearly looking like flat pack.

Feeling duped, I opened the boxes to find what I'd refer to as flat pack inside – but with a twist. The pieces included a fixing from a brand called OVVO that I'd not seen before. Could this be the key to improving my relationship with flat pack, or would we remain as necessary acquaintances rather than friends?

What is Ovvo?

So what exactly are OVVO connectors? Essentially, they are small plastic fittings that are including in the furniture manufacturing phase, and designed to replace the need for using lots of tools and different fixings.

One piece of furniture has a receiver section, the other a small plastic strip with ridges that slots into the receiver. The idea is that you insert one into the other and click into place.

It sounds simple, but was it as easy to use?

My experiences of building furniture with OVVO connectors

OVVO fixings were included in four different items of furniture. All of them were from the Next Malvern Oak effect range and included a coffee table, tv unit, side table with storage and a wide shelf unit with cupboards and drawers.

I tackled the first three items alone as the size was manageable as a solo job. And, I'll confirm that assembling them saw me singing the praises of the connectors in a team meeting, saying how I'd never build another piece of flat pack that didn't have them.

It didn't remove the need for DIY tools, or different types of screwdriver heads, particularly on items that had more design details and features such as drawers, compartments and cupboards (or at least it didn't with the pieces of furniture I built), but there's no doubt it improved the process overall.

In fact, on more simple items such as the side table, it went together in rapid time and without any issues, making me convinced it was going to revolutionise flat pack.

But, as is always the risk with items designed to be put together at home, things don't always go to plan. There's a clear warning on the instructions that once the OVVO fixing is in place it is permanent and this is very true – as I discovered the hard way.

There are no margins for human error

When it came to assembling the largest and final piece of furniture, the large shelving unit, I knew it would be a two person job and one that would likely be more complicated. The amount of additional screws, fixings and components in the packaging made it clear I was right – as did the instructions.

It all started well, and I began work before help arrived, working on the first steps that I thought I could do solo. And then disaster struck, when assembling two pieces that had two OVVO fixings, I accidentally pushed one of the pieces too hard to one side.

The fixing is that strong, instead of it breaking, or the pieces of furniture popping apart, the fixing pushed through the wood and broke off a small section of laminate. It meant the fixing was still in place, but the section of furniture was now only attached with one OVVO fixing rather than two, and there was a missing piece of laminate.

And therein lies part of the problem. Whereas with most flatpack fixings you'd be able to remove them and remedy the problem, in this instance I couldn't. Thankfully it's in a location whereby there are other fixings in place around it, and the broken piece is inside a cupboard. Had it been anywhere else, I'd potentially have needed to buy a new piece of furniture, and dispose of the whole unused unit which would have been a terrible waste – particularly given the new rules around bins and recycling that are coming into place.

Thankfully I was able to continue assembling the unit, and have added some additional fixings at the rear to ensure it is fully secure. But, inside the cupboard (where the damaged fixing is) I'm going to have to use some glue and wood filler to attach the broken section over the fixing and disguise my mistake.

Shop for essential DIY flat pack tools

Is OVVO the only way or just some of the way?

Having now tested the OVVO fixings on four different pieces of furniture, I'm not quite as excited as I first was when I tried it. It certainly made fixing simple pieces together easier, but in my experience, once you go beyond the realms of a piece of furniture having more than sides, top, base and a few shelves, it only removes a small part of the process.

Yes this helps, but given the scope for error there is when building flat pack, be this not following instructions properly, using the wrong fixings, or as in my case, physical error, it means you have to be fully in control of the process.

Would I buy furniture that had it again? Yes, as anything that sees me having to use one less alan key is always a bonus, but I'd be hyper-vigilant in terms of following every single step of the process to the letter.

And, I'd make sure there was plenty of space for building the items and remind myself not to make the final connection until I was completely confident I had it right.

For more DIY advice from the professionals, make sure you avoid these other DIY mistakes, and if you're considering installing your kitchen yourself (another place where flat pack style items exist), find out what our interiors expert learnt when she and her partner installed a kitchen from Wickes themselves.

If you need steady and secure access to your loft space, planning the cost of a loft ladder is a sensible option as they provide a quick and convenient entrance to the roof space. But loft hatches, and loft ladders are not all made equal so the costs involved for installing a loft ladder might not be as simple as you might think.

A straightforward like-for-like loft ladder swap is the most cost-effective option. And it's even a job you can tackle yourself. But it might not fit with your new loft conversion ideas, and more work will need to be done to get what you need.

Whatever you want, here you'll find out how much you can expect to pay for a loft ladder and its professional installation.

Can I fit a loft ladder myself?

This very much depends on how confident and competent a DIYer you are. Scott Godfrey, Carpenter and trade consultant for Black Hammer, explains when a DIYer can tackle installing a loft ladder themselves. “If it's a straightforward swap into an existing loft hatch that's already the right size and properly framed, there's no reason a competent DIYer couldn't fit a loft ladder themselves.”

However, it’s not typically a job you can tackle by yourself, continues Scott, “You'd be looking at a 2-4 hour job most likely, but should definitely treat it as a two-man job, so you're handling everything safely and accurately.”

Liam Hobbs, of More Than Loft Ladders, suggests when it might be time to call in a professional, “I would always recommend a professional where the hatch needs enlarging, the ceiling is uneven, the loft floor is awkward, or you are fitting a heavier timber or insulated system.”

Shop these loft ladders, hatches and doors for loft access

Types of loft ladder and costs

When you're installing a loft ladder, you'll find there are various types to choose from, making it easier to find the perfect fit for your needs. Godfrey points out the common budget-friendly option, “Sliding aluminium ladders are a common budget choice and typically cost around £60 to £150 for the ladder only.”

He adds, “Telescopic ladders typically sit around £120 to £300 and pack away neatly where space is limited.”

Joe Dudley, construction and DIY specialist from LB Supplies, shares an alternative loft ladder option, “A concertina loft ladder typically costs between £180 and over £1,000, but this can vary depending on the maximum height, weight capacity and material.”

He adds, “They are ideal for lofts that have a limited amount of space around the hatch, and the way that they fold means that they take up very little space when stored. Some models also have springs, making them easier to pull down and push up.”

Godfrey shares a few more types and costs, “Folding timber ladders, often supplied with an insulated hatch, commonly cost around £200 to £450.” He adds, “Motorised options are available for frequent access or reduced mobility, usually from roughly £800 up to £2,500 or more depending on specification.”

Cost to install a loft ladder

The cost of a loft ladder installation will vary depending on different factors. Hobbs says, “The cheap jobs are the simple ones. Once you start enlarging openings, trimming joists properly and improving the hatch, the cost goes up, as you’d expect.”

If you already have a loft ladder and only need to pay for installation, Hobbs says, “For labour only, you are typically looking at around £185 to £380 for a straightforward installation, depending on the ladder type and whether it is going into an existing suitable hatch."

As you might expect for the whole package (labour and ladder), you will be charged more. Hobbs says, “If you are including the ladder and standard materials, many homeowners will land somewhere around £250 to £450 for a basic aluminium setup.”

However, better quality systems and alterations will push the price up, shares Hobbs, “Better timber systems or jobs involving hatch alterations can push that figure higher to around £500 to £750,” He adds, “Electric ladders are available from £1200 fitted.”

Time to install a loft ladder

How long it takes to install a loft ladder depends on the complexity of the job. A straightforward installation won’t take long, shares Hobbs, “A simple loft ladder fitted into an existing hatch can often be installed in around an hour.”

However, if there is the need for alterations, it will take longer, explains Hobbs, “If the hatch needs enlarging, the frame needs altering, or you are fitting a more substantial timber access kit, allow nearer half a day.” He adds, “Most straightforward domestic jobs are done in one visit.”

FAQs

Are there any building regulations to follow when installing a loft ladder?

“No,” states Hobbs, “In practical terms, the ladder and opening need to be safe to use, properly fixed and suitable for the space.” However, it's not quite as simple as that, continues Hobbs, “If you are just adding retractable access for storage, that is usually different from creating a habitable loft room, which is a whole different animal with much stricter rules.”

If installing a loft ladder for access to a habitable room, there are a few building regulations that will need to be followed, says Dudley: “The ladder needs to have secure handrails on both sides, with a minimum headroom clearance of two metres.” He continues, “The ladder needs to support a load of at least 150kg to meet weight and stability standards (e.g. EN14975).”

In addition, “Retractable ladders are generally not allowed for accessing a permanent, habitable loft room.” Hobbs adds, “If electrics are being altered for loft lighting, Part P may come into play. Scotland and Wales can differ, so local rules should be checked.”

How much room do you need for a loft ladder?

Loft ladders and hatches aren’t all built the same, so how much room is needed will depend on what you have, as Dudley shares, “A loft ladder usually needs a hatch that is a minimum of 600mm by 1200mm, with 1.1m of vertical clearance.”

He adds, “It will need a swing clearance arc of 1.5m to 2m when being unfolded, but this will depend on the ladder type and ceiling height.”

However, circumstances will dictate the size shares Hobbs, “It depends on the ladder type, the floor-to-ceiling height, and the hatch size. Some compact loft ladders will work with openings around 400mm to 460mm long, while larger timber ladders may need around 1.15m by 0.57m and can even be as large as 1.4m by 1m.”

He finishes with some words to note, “Be careful, though, because loft ladders are not one-size-fits-all, no matter what the box might try to tell you.” If unsure, consult with a professional about what is needed for your circumstances.

If you're thinking of moving into your loft space, you need to check out our loft conversion beginner's guide to get you started. Follow this up with our guides on loft conversion ideas and loft conversion windows ideas for insight and inspiration.

Sharpening a drill bit is rarely a second thought for most DIYers. It's straight out of the case, into a chuck and start drilling. But drill bits are not indestructible and are prone to wear and tear like every other tool. Eventually, the crisp and clean drill holes you once admired are no longer up to scratch.

You’ll have to work harder, regardless of the type of drill bit you have. So it makes sense to give your drill bit a quick sharpen when needed to bring it back to life. Plus, it will save you the cost of replacing your bits regularly. Here you’ll find out what tools you’ll need and how to do it yourself.

Why you need to sharpen a drill bit

A new drill bit works better than a used one, so sharpening it will bring it back to its best. Leigh Start, MD of Metal Store, says, “A sharp drill bit cuts cleanly and efficiently, while a dull one forces you to apply more pressure, generates excess heat and is far more likely to wander off your mark.”

Paul McFadyen, MD of Metals4U, suggests regular sharpening is key: “Sharpening a drill bit is an essential part of drill maintenance, and improves both safety and performance of the tool.” He adds, “A blunt drill bit is less effective at drilling into material, particularly when drilling into metal and masonry, taking longer to drill to the required depth.”

Leigh Start explains what can happen with a blunt drill bit. “When drilling into metal specifically, a blunt bit can also work-harden the surface, making it even harder to cut through. Regular sharpening helps protect both your drill bits and the workpiece.”

He adds, “A dull bit also increases the risk of grabbing or snapping, particularly with smaller diameters, which can damage both the drill and the material being drilled.”

Shop these tools to sharpen a drill bit

Tools needed to sharpen a drill bit

There are a couple of options when sharpening a drill bit, explains McFadyen, “You can choose to sharpen a drill bit by hand or using an angle grinder or bench grinder.”

Sharpening by hand

Manually sharpening a drill bit only needs a few tools, as McFadyen shares, “When sharpening by hand, you will need a diamond hand file for most drill bits, particularly those made for masonry or metal drilling, which are typically made from harder materials.

He adds, “A fine file is also useful for softer drill bits or for minor finishing improvements.”

Using sharpening tools

“If you’re confident and have the tools, a bench or angle grinder can be used,” shares McFadyen. Start adds, “A bench grinder with a fine-grit wheel is the most common workshop tool for sharpening HSS twist bits.”

Start offers an alternative for DIYers: “For more consistent results - and a more accessible option for most DIYers - a drill-mounted sharpening jig or dedicated drill bit sharpener can help maintain the correct angles and keep both cutting edges symmetrical.”

PPE protection

Whether you're sharpening a drill by hand or using machinery, you need to wear protective gear, McFadyen says. “Eye protection is especially key, whilst gloves can also be worn when sharpening using power tools. A well-ventilated area and a dust mask are also recommended to avoid inhalation of dust.”

Sharpening a drill bit

There are two common methods for sharpening a drill: by hand or with a power tool. McFadyen points out, “There are key differences between the processes, but many of the techniques remain the same for both.”

Start adds, “Wood bits are usually easier to sharpen with a file or small stone, while masonry bits with carbide tips generally require a diamond wheel and are often replaced rather than sharpened in a home workshop.”

Get the right angle

McFadyen shares how to start the sharpening process: “Start by cleaning the drill bit and inspecting it to see exactly where it needs to be sharpened.” He adds, “When sharpening, take your time and frequently check the bit to ensure you are sharpening it at the correct angle.”

Ensuring you have the right angle is important. Start says, “For standard HSS twist bits used on metal, sharpening is typically done on a bench grinder by restoring the original 118° point angle while ensuring both cutting lips remain the same length.”

Start explains how, “The bit is lightly touched against the wheel and rotated to recreate the relief behind the cutting edge.” To help get the right angle, try an inexpensive tool like this Drill Bit Grinder Tool Manual from Amazon.

Alternatively, if you regularly need to sharpen drill bits, invest in a suitable machine, such as this Drill Doctor DD500X Twist Drill Bit Sharpener from Amazon.

Tips and techniques

If sharpening by hand, McFadyen says, “For the cutting edges, follow the curve of them with your file, moving it away from the edge in short controlled motions.” He continues, “Start with one edge, and then move onto the other once you are satisfied.”

Finally, “For the chisel, simply ensure that the tip is honed and clean. Do not aggressively sharpen the point, as this can shorten the life of the bit.”

If using a powered sharpener like a bench grinder, McFadyen shares the process: “The same principles apply for using powered grinders. Take things slowly and maintain a firm grip on the drill bit. Ensure the angle is correct and frequently check the bit every few seconds.”

He adds, “Importantly, when using a powered tool, you will need to control the heat generated from the grinding process. Keep a cup of water on hand and dip the bit into it every time you inspect it.”

Once sharpened, make sure to check your handiwork, shares McFadyen, “Before using the drill, visually inspect it to ensure that the edges are sharp and of equal length.” He adds, “Following this, gently test it in some soft scrap material and keep an eye out for signs that it is not drilling correctly, such as squealing, wandering or refusal to bite.”

FAQs

How often should I sharpen a drill bit?

Start says, “There's no fixed rule, but it's good practice to inspect your bits before use and after any tough job.” He continues, “Common signs that a bit needs sharpening include squealing during use, needing to apply excessive pressure, heat discolouration and ragged or imprecise holes.”

McFadyen shares, “Much will depend on how often you use your drill, what you use it for, and the quality of the drill bit itself.” He adds, “Drilling into wood, for example, will require less frequent sharpening than drilling into stainless steel or masonry.”

How much does a professional charge to sharpen a drill bit?

If you are not confident in sharpening a drill bit, you can take it to a professional. This is inexpensive for single drill bits, as McFadyen shares, “This can vary, but typically the price per drill bit will be under £5.”

And it can be a quick job as well, continues McFadyen, “Depending on availability and demand, professional sharpening can be done fairly quickly, and you will most likely be able to pick up your sharpened tools on the same day.” Search for local services to see what's available nearby.

How many times can a drill bit realistically be sharpened?

This can vary by type and use, but as a general rule, McFadyen says, “Drill bits can be sharpened frequently, but after a while it is advisable to replace rather than repair them.”

He adds, “The main restriction is the condition of the chisel head. If this becomes broken or damaged, or is filed too thin, the bit will need to be replaced.” Start explains what happens each time a bit is sharpened: “Each sharpening removes a small amount of material, so the limiting factor is typically the overall length rather than the condition of the steel itself.”

He adds that the quality also affects sharpening: “Cheaper bits often don’t respond as well to resharpening, which is another reason why investing in higher-quality drill bits can pay off over time.”

Try these drill bit sets to replace your old ones: DEWALT Titanium Nitride Coated, 21-Piece Titanium Pilot Point Drill Bit Set, fischer 561649 D-U Hex Universal Drill Bit Set and this DEWALT Masonry Drill Bit Set (all available from Amazon).

Drill bits come in many guises and can handle many DIY tasks, including drilling into walls and drilling into metal. If you are tackling any of these tasks or taking on a house renovation project, make sure your drill bits are sharp and fit for purpose.

Whether it’s the result of DIY mistakes or natural movement over time, a sagging internal door is a problem that needs fixing. It can cause a door stick to stick, rub against the frame or fail to latch – which is a nuisance every day, and a potential safety hazard when reliable access is critical.

“Internal doors sag for a handful of reasons, and most of them come down to either the hinges or the building itself,” says Luke Bowes of The Door Company UK.

“Loose or worn hinges and screws are probably the most common culprit – over time they can wear or lose their grip, and the door starts to drop. You’ve also got things like seasonal movement, where timber expands and contracts with changes in humidity, which can gradually throw a door out of alignment.

“Older properties especially tend to suffer from general building settlement, where the frame shifts slightly and takes the door with it. And poor installation from the outset is another cause worth mentioning,” he adds.

According to Guy Davies, Owner of GLD Joinery, many of the problems leading to a ‘dropped door’ that sags in the frame are down to installation errors.

“If you look at the hinge and see that it’s failed, that’s often because the joiner has fit the wrong hinges,” he says. “In other cases, they might not have put the right fixings in, so the screws have come loose. Swelling in the door is another potential cause, especially if the room has been freshly plastered after installation.”

The solutions for a sagging door range from quick fixes with a screwdriver to challenging carpentry tasks. This article explains how to fix some of the most common causes of a door sagging – and when you might need to call in a professional.

Diagnosis: how to identify why your internal door is sagging

First, visually check the door and identify exactly where it is rubbing against the door frame. Is the point of friction on the jamb (the side of the frame where hinges are mounted), at the opposite side, or at the top or bottom of the frame?

“Open and close the door slowly and see where it’s catching or dragging,” says Bowes. “If it’s scraping along the bottom or catching at the latch side, that’s usually a sign that the door has dropped at the hinge side.”

Next, inspect the hinges and check for loose screws, gaps between the hinge and the door or door frame, or other signs that the hinge is not securely attached. The top hinge of a door takes more weight than the lower hinge(s), so this is a likely problem area. “Give the hinges a visual inspection and then try to wiggle the door gently; any movement when it shouldn’t move suggests loose screws or worn hinge leaves,” says Bowes.

In some cases, the door might not be perfectly sized for the frame. This can occur for various reasons, including imperfect installation of the door frame or movement in the surrounding structure (especially in period properties). “It’s worth checking the frame with a spirit level to see whether the issue is the door itself or the structure around it,” Bowes advises. “Shining a torch around the edge of the door in a darkened room can help you spot uneven gaps, which tells you a lot about where the misalignment is coming from.”

Step-by-step fixes for a sagging internal door

Method 1: tighten or replace the screws

The simplest solution for a sagging door is to adjust the screws where the hinge attaches to the door frame.

“This is always the first port of call because it’s the quickest fix and it solves the problem more often than you’d expect,” says Bowes.

“Remove one hinge screw at a time, and if it spins freely rather than biting, the hole has stripped. A short-term fix is to pack the hole with matchsticks and wood glue, let it dry, then refit the screw; it sounds a bit old school but it genuinely works.”

If the drive of a screw has become stripped, so you cannot gain purchase on it to turn the screw, then you might need to drill out the screw using a metal drill bit (meaning a drill bit that’s designed for drilling into metal).

“For a more robust repair, rather than going straight for longer screws (which come with larger heads that can create their own alignment issues), a better option is to reposition the hinge slightly on the frame, provided the frame itself is in good condition – even moving it by 10-15mm gives you fresh timber to bite into and a much cleaner result,” says Bowes.

“Fill the old screw holes with wood filler, let it dry, and you’re good to go. If the hinge leaf itself is worn or bent, just replace it; they’re cheap and it’s not worth trying to work around a hinge that’s past its best.”

Method 2: shim the hinges to improve alignment

Surprisingly often, the best solution to a household problem is to pack an ill-fitting component with a thin sliver of material called a shim. You can make your own shims by cutting off thin pieces of timber, or you can buy ready-made shims from a hardware retailer.

“Shimming is useful when the hinge recesses have been cut too deep, causing the door to sit proud on the hinge side and bind on the latch side,” says Bowes. “The fix is straightforward: remove the hinge, cut a thin piece of card or hardboard to the same size as the hinge leaf, and place it in the recess before refitting.

“You may need to experiment with the thickness to get the alignment right, so it’s worth starting thin and building up. It’s a small adjustment, but getting it right makes a noticeable difference to how the door hangs and closes.”

Davies suggests an alternative solution: refitting the hinge. “If there’s an even gap around the casing and there’s enough room in the frame, you can knock the hinge further in or replace it. Or, you can chop a bit of timber out of the casing to make room to refit the hinge – I do this with a hammer and a 25mm Marples chisel,” he says.

Method 3: adjust the strike plate

The strike plate is the metal panel on a door jamb that accepts the latch or bolt from the door itself. In some cases, this component causes problems with a door’s fit.

“If the door is catching on the latch or not closing properly but the door itself seems reasonably well aligned, the strike plate is often the issue rather than the hinges,” says Bowes.

“First, check whether the latch bolt is lining up with the hole in the plate; putting lipstick or chalk on the latch face is an old trick for marking exactly where it’s hitting.

“If it’s slightly out, you can often just file the strike plate opening to give a bit more room. If it’s more significantly misaligned, remove the plate, chisel out the recess a little in the right direction, and refit it in the corrected position. Fill the old screw holes if they no longer line up, and you’re good to go.”

Method 4: plane or sand the door

If you’ve considered all of the above options and you’ve concluded that the reason for your door’s fit issue is the dimensions of the door itself, then you might choose to plane or sand the door.

“Planing or sanding should really be a last resort once you’ve ruled out hinge and hardware issues, because you’re removing material you can’t put back,” says Bowes.

“If you do need to go down this route, take the door off its hinges and mark clearly where it’s binding – chalk or a pencil rubbed along the frame works well. Use a hand plane or belt sander and work gradually, checking frequently to avoid taking off too much material. If you’re planing the bottom of the door, a belt sander on the floor can be easier than using a plane.

“Bear in mind that if the sagging is caused by seasonal movement, the door might free up on its own in drier conditions, so it’s worth waiting a season before you start removing material permanently,” he adds.

Useful tools for fixing issues with internal door fit:

FAQs

When should I call a professional to fix a sagging internal door?

Many joiners, carpenters and door specialists provide door maintenance services, and in some cases it’s best to get this household problem fixed by one of these experts.

However, Davies of GLD Joinery recommends giving this DIY project a go, before you call in the pros.

“Always have a go yourself before calling someone in, because you can save some money if you can manage it DIY,” he says. “If you can’t sort the hinge out or there’s another problem that you can’t figure out, that’s when to get help.”

Can a sagging internal door get worse or lead to other problems?

“A sagging door definitely has knock-on effects,” says Davies. “It can start taking paint off where the door is rubbing, and it might start loosening the handle, causing the fixings that hold the handle together to fail.”

When a door sags, this tends to place additional strain (through gravity) on the successfully installed fixings that are bearing its weight, so these may also be affected.

Are there cases where a sagging internal door needs to be replaced rather than fixed?

In some cases, sagging is a sign that a door requires replacement, rather than repairs.

“If the door frame itself is rotten, badly warped, or structurally compromised, no amount of adjusting the door will fix the root cause, and in these cases, you may need to look at replacing the frame,” says Bowes.

“Similarly, if there’s significant building movement or damp driving the issue, you need that addressed. Also, very old or damaged doors that have been planed repeatedly over the years can reach a point where there simply isn’t enough material left to work with, and replacement is the practical call.

“If you’re dealing with fire doors, it’s especially important to get a professional involved; they need to meet specific performance standards, and a poorly hanging fire door could be a safety and compliance issue.”

If you can fix a sagging door, then you're more than capable of solving all sorts of DIY problems for yourself. For more guidance on common fixes, read our guides on how to replace a door lock, fitting a toilet seat and how to change a light switch cover.

Replacing door locks has cost me a small fortune over the years. Hiring different locksmiths to do what often turns out to be a relatively simple job on my doors and windows made me realise just how much money I’ve wasted.

However, after watching a few UK-based videos showing me how to replace a door lock myself, I realised I could have saved £100s and a huge amount of time with just a bit of research.

It’s a skill that almost everyone will need at least once in their life, so learning from these videos will serve you well. Take it from me - you’ll want to see these before you spend a single penny on someone else.

Best advice for replacing a Euro cylinder lock

Euro cylinder locks are one of the most common types you’ll find on UK doors, and I’ve learned that replacing them yourself can save a surprising amount of money.

Dad Showed Me demonstrates how to save around £150 in locksmith costs with just a Phillips head screwdriver and a tape measure, and he makes it look completely doable.

All it takes is a few simple steps: remove the old lock, pull out the cylinder, measure to find the right size, buy the replacement, and fit the new locking mechanism. Simple.

Changing the lock cylinder is straightforward when you know what to do, and watching the video made me feel like, as Dean Commodore says in the video, like I had a “DIY dad” guiding me every step of the way.

Best advice for replacing a Yale or nightlatch lock

Why not go straight to the horse’s mouth when it comes to replacing locks? I went to the Yale YouTube channel, and their video really gave me everything I needed for this slightly more complicated lock type.

The video walks through every step clearly and shows all the tools you need: “Before starting, you’ll need the following tools: a drill, 3mm drill bit, chisel, hammer, crosshead screwdriver, flat-ended screwdriver, fine-tooth hacksaw, pencil and ruler.”

It then explains how to remove the existing lock safely: “Firstly, you’ll need to remove your existing nightlatch by taking out the connecting screws and removing the lock case. Remove the two screws retaining the cylinder in position while supporting the cylinder so it doesn’t drop out.”

Once the old lock is out, the video shows exactly how to fit the new one, including adjusting the connecting bar: “Measure the connecting bar, then use a fine-tooth hacksaw to shorten the flat connecting bar so that it projects 12 millimetres beyond the surface of the mounting plate.”

I hope I won’t need this video often – I only have one of these locks - but it’s great to know it’s there if I do. Having this step-by-step visual guide makes me feel confident that I could tackle a Yale nightlatch myself without paying a locksmith.

Best advice for multi‑point UPVC door lock replacement

Easily the most common type of lock I've had to replace are multi‑point UPVC door lock, so seeing this Ultimate Handyman video will probably be the one which will save me the most going forward.

Chez Rossi, managing director of Ultimate Handyman LTD, shares advice that applies to almost any multi-point lock in a UK home. Here are the key steps and practical tips I learned from him:

• Remove the Euro cylinder first: “We need to put a key in the door, remove the screw which holds in the Euro cylinder, turn until the cam lines up and we can remove the Euro cylinder.”
• Keep moving parts secure while working: “We need to ensure the bottom shoot bolt doesn’t drop down and prevent us from opening the door again.”
• Remove screws in order: “There’s a series of screws that we need to remove before we can pull the lock out from the door.”
• Test the lock before closing the door: “Before I actually close the door, I lift it to the locking position, lock with the key and make sure that works.”

By following these four steps, I'll now be able to comfortably replace the locks on my conservatory doors and windows whenever they get stuck or break, which will probably be in the next week or so.

Shop the best door locks

Best advice for replacing a mortice lock

You may recognise the person giving the next advice. Ben Hillman, from A Place in the Sun. He previously worked for B&Q, and his 2013 video, although slightly older, is just as useful today for replacing this pesky lock.

Ben starts by explaining the types and measuring: “There are two types of mortice lock: the mortice sash lock… and the mortice deadlock… They’re both fitted in the same way.” He explains: “First measure the backset of your existing lock… for a sash lock, measure from the keyhole to the handle spindle. Note the faceplate height.”

When it comes to actually swapping the lock, the key points are simple: “Remove the screws from the lock faceplate, handles and spindle… use pliers to grip the bolt and pull the lock from the door”, “Push the new lock into the mortice hole, fit the faceplate, and fix it” and then “Fit the new keep into the frame and check the lock with the door open.”

Even though it’s only a 3-minute video, Ben packs in all the essentials. Following his guidance made replacing a mortice lock feel straightforward, and it’s a skill that can save you a lot of money.

I’ve paid someone to replace each one of these locks at some point, so it stands to reason that I’ll probably need to do it again in the future.

Although I’ve already spent over the odds on jobs I could have done myself, I now have all the information I need to avoid repeating the same mistake - and now, so do you.

There are several ways to mount a TV on a wall in your home, depending on where you decide to put one. Do you want to recess the TV so it sits flush to the wall, or are you happy for it to be mounted on the surface? Or, perhaps you even want to be able to hide it completely from view in your living room design when not in use.

While there are plenty of different ways to mount a TV on the wall, there are some practical considerations to take into account when making your selection, not least of all regarding how your wall is constructed.

In this article we'll explore the options you have for mounting a TV as well as looking at ways of making your TV less of a feature, and more of a hidden extra.

Ways to mount a TV in your home

While mounting a TV onto a wall is a popular choice amongst homeowners, there are also other places to put it, for instance if you have sloped walls or walls with beams om not a large enough space. Here are the options.

It's also worth being aware that you need to make sure the bracket you use is compatible with your TV. The key information you'll need for your bracket is the VESA dimensions. These are guidelines that match flat screen TVs to suitable wall mounts and can usually be found in your TV specification or manual. You can then match your TV to the correct mount, although be sure to check it matches the screen size and can support the weight of your TV too.

1. Mount the TV straight onto the wall

If you're happy for your TV to be visible in the room, your main choice for mounting a TV is straight onto the wall with a specialised TV mount. These come in a range of different options ranging from fixed mounts that mean the TV stays in one position, through to ones that have a full range of movement, allowing you to pull the TV in and out from the wall, and angle it in a different direction.

I've personally used several different types, and currently have a fully flexible TV mount in my living room. As it's an open-plan space, being able to pull the TV out and tilt it towards some of the seating is particularly helpful.

Shop for TV mounts

2. Create a recess in the wall

For a more streamline finish, creating a recess in a stud wall and mounting the TV inside it also has other advantages.

As well as helping to visually disguise your TV but pushing it back into the wall's structure, it also creates an opportunity to hide cables and plugs. If you're building the wall from scratch, your power source and any type of connectivity cables for internet or streaming can be run directly to the back of the recess, pulled through, and located out of sight behind the TV.

Homebuilding & Renovating's content director, Laura Crombie, created a recess in her home along with a flexible mount to allow her to hide items behind the TV, but still be able access them when needed.

"We created two recesses when mounting our TV," explains Laura "The TV is mounted just over a recess which has a hidden alcove inside for games consoles. As well as giving us a more streamlined finish, it also meant we could hide away some of the less attractive family entertainment essentials such as gaming consoles."

I f your want to create a recess for your TV, your wall structure will need consideration, as well as there being a few extra factors to think about as well, namely:

1. Ventilation: Your TV gets hot, so you'll need to make sure there is sufficient airflow around the back and sides of the TV to prevent overheating. A few mms won't be enough so don't try and make the recess too snug
2. Access: As well as needing space for ventilation, you'll also need to be able to get your hands inside the recess to access the TV itself, including mounting it, removing it or dealing with any electrical faults. Therefore when sizing your recess, make sure you take this into account.

It's this second point that leads me to encourage you to use a flexible mount, rather than a fixed one when installing a TV inside a recess, much like Laura Crombie did. However, I had to learn the hard way from my mistakes.

In one property I owned, recesses had been built into the walls by the developer. They weren't exactly right for the size of TVs I owned, but nonetheless were a nice feature. However, I made the mistake of installing one of them with a fixed mount, and then realised it was nigh on impossible to remove it from fixed mount when it came to moving out. Damage to the wall and the TV mount was inevitable but could have been avoided by using the right mount to start with.

3. Mount to the ceiling

Another option can be to purchase a mount that means your TV is attached to the ceiling, rather than the wall. This can be an option if you are looking at options for a loft conversion bedroom for example, where a sloped ceiling may be the only available location for a TV.

Once again, VESA dimensions on your bracket can be used to find the right type of ceiling mount, and it will be once again a case of understanding how to attach it to the ceiling using the correct fixings.

Amazon has a range of ceiling TV mounts to choose from.

4. Build a media wall

If you are looking for feature wall ideas to house your TV, another way to mount your TV is to include it within a media wall. This gives you the option to create storage for other media equipment and entertainment such as toys and books.

While the appearance of it will depend on personal taste and the overall look you are hoping to achieve in the room, some homeowners choose to create them so they look like a full piece of furniture, while others still mount the TV directly to the wall and build storage around the TV instead.

In Laura Crombie's case, it was the former. "We mounted one of our TVs onto an MDF-backed media wall. But, relying on the MDF alone wasn't enough to provide us with a secure fixing. This meant we had to reinforce it behind with timber struts so we had a stable base to screw the mount into."

Try this freestanding media cabinet for an alternative solution

5. Use a floor standing mount or TV furniture

Not keen to drill or screw into your new, pristine walls? There is of course always the option of using furniture to house your TV. These can range from floor standing mounts, such as this artist's easel style Hoxton Tripod TV Stand with Mount from John Lewis, through to TV cabinets or stands.

For floor mounted options, you'll again need to consider your TV size and weight to match it to the right mount. With furniture, it's more about weight and screen size. Most TV stands will state what size it's suitable for, such as this Cream Malvern Oak Effect Up to 80 inch Slim TV Unit from Next, that I've just purchased for my mum's new flat.

Where to mount your TV

Where you mount your TV will depend on the layout of your room. Bedrooms, living rooms, kitchens and snugs can all potentially house a TV, but where?

"The obvious place is the wall opposite your favourite sofa, where you will spend most of your time watching TV," says Steve Jenkins, Homebuilding & Renovating's DIY expert. "Make sure it's at a comfortable height, roughly eye level when sitting down.

"However, if you have kids or pets, you might want it slightly higher," he notes. "One tip is to stick a similar-sized piece of cardboard on the wall in the preferred position and then sit in your favourite seats and check it's a comfortable viewing position. Alternatively, if you’ve got helpers, you can have them hold the TV in place."

Being practical about it helps too, adds Steve, and can save extra DIY jobs in the process.

"Also, think about how far from a power point and a TV aerial point the TV will be," he says, "as the fewer wires on display, the better."

Make sure you think about the focal points in your room and where the TV best fits in, and at at the same time, don't forget to take into consideration your doors and windows, and where light enters the room. Having windows or large sliding patio doors facing the TV will lead to glare and the need for window coverings to potentially be pulled in the middle of the day.

Drilling into a wall or ceiling to mount a TV

Decided on where to mount your TV? Now comes the important part of making sure it's mounted securely and safely. Steve Jenkins explains the type of kit and tools you'll need if you're undertaking the job yourself.

"The first thing to note is what type of wall you are mounting to. For drilling into brick walls, you’ll need Rawl plugs and screws. As a general guide, 80-100mm screws with appropriate Rawl plugs should be sufficient for most TVs. You will typically need six fixing points to ensure a secure fix.

"Drilling into plasterboard walls will need plasterboard fixings, and these typically can’t hold as much weight as brick wall fixings," notes Steve. "Ideally, locate the studs in a stud wall and screw into them. And, if you have a very large or heavy TV, you may need larger screws or more fixing points regardless of wall type.

"You will need a cordless drill and masonry drill bits for brick walls. For plasterboard, you may need a drill and a spade bit. Some kits like this Plasterboard Fixing Kit from Amazon come with the bit. Or, this TV Fixing Kit, also from Amazon, is good for brick walls," he adds.

Ways to hide your cables — and your TV

Hiding cables

Building a stud wall from scratch and including a recess for your TV means you can run cables behind the plasterboard for the neatest solution. But you also have options if you're mounting to a finished wall.

"A simple solution is to place furniture in front of cables, but this may not be viable or aesthetically pleasing," says Steve Jenkins. "Another option is to use cable covers like this Paintable Trunking from Amazon. Run them from behind the TV to the floor, and either choose a colour that matches the wall colour or paint them to suit.

"Alternatively, to completely hide any cable, you can chase them into the wall. But this is time-consuming, messy and more expensive. If you have plasterboard walls, you can cut a hole in the wall behind the TV and another at the bottom of the wall, drop the cables down the gap, and pull them through at the bottom. However, this is not a quick, straightforward solution like a cable cover."

And, if you have brick or stone walls, I can confirm that chasing out walls for cables is also a very messy, noisy and time-consuming job, with lots of repair work required afterwards to reinstate the plaster finish on your walls. It's not for the faint-hearted, but if you're renovating and want a sleek finish everywhere, it can be worth it in the long run.

Hiding your TV

If recessing your TV into the wall doesn't hide it enough for you, there are also a number of different ways you can cover it as well. Choosing to install doors on your media wall is one of the easiest ways to cover it. Adding a sliding door just in front of the TV section can allow you to still display accessories and decor either side on shelving.

Another option when it's mounted on a wall, or in a recess, is to mount sliding rails above and below the TV and add a piece of artwork on doors that can be pulled across to cover the TV when not in use.

Some homeowners choose to 'frame' their TV instead, using a custom made frame and then displaying an image on the TV screen so that it looks like artwork, while products such as Samsung's The Frame TV are designed entirely with this approach in mind.

For a more cost effective option, dust covers with an artwork style appearance are also available and simply fit snugly over the TV when not in use. As an aside, if you're considering a TV in an outdoor kitchen area, using a waterproof TV cover such as xxxx from xxxx is a must.

Or, if your smart TV can display your photos, creating a collage or rolling display of images as a screensaver can be a very low cost way of turning your TV into a giant photo frame. It's of course not zero cost as leaving it on, rather than on standby will incur some minimal energy costs.

Try these covers for disguising your TV

Feeling confident to proceed with mounting a TV as part of your DIY plans this weekend? If you're looking to mount a TV above a fireplace, find out what the experts recommend before you make a start. Then, once you're equipped and ready to go, take a look at these stylish TV mounting ideas for making sure your TV and fireplace combined wall looks the best it can.

When your kitchen tiles start to lose their appeal, but you don’t have the budget for a complete makeover, what’s the solution? Do you wait until you take on a full kitchen renovation? Or do you look for a smart short-term solution?

Painting your kitchen tiles will definitely give them a lift and elevate the surrounding areas, but how long will it last? The question is, is it worth the time and effort? Here, the pros reveal if it's a good idea, the benefits it can bring and how to do it if you decide to go ahead.

Is painting kitchen tiles a good idea?

There isn’t a simple answer to this question; there are positives and negatives, so you need to be aware of what lies ahead. Steve Larkin, kitchen expert at Kitchen Door Hub, explains the obvious benefit: “Painting kitchen tiles is budget-friendly.” He adds, “Buying paint and primer is much cheaper than completely retiling your kitchen walls or flooring.”

Another benefit, Larkin shares, is that “Painting allows you to add a personal touch to your space, as you can customise the colour of the tiles or even add a pattern.”

However, a coat of paint doesn’t have the durability of kitchen tiles. Michael Rolland, MD at The Paint Shed, explains what works and what doesn’t. “Painting tiles is not advisable as tiles are made from very different materials, and it becomes dependent on the type of tile you’re working with.”

He adds. “Some tiles, like ceramic, can be painted with a special primer and topcoat. But paint on tiles won’t work everywhere," shares Rolland, “Tiles that get wet, such as splashbacks, or more porous tiles, are very hard to paint successfully.” He adds, “For a long-lasting, flawless finish, we’d usually recommend replacing the tiles rather than painting them.”

The same principles apply to floor tiles, shares Rolland, “Painting floor tiles is generally not a good idea. Foot traffic and the variety of tile types make it difficult to achieve a durable finish, so replacing them is usually the safer option.” He finishes by saying, “Paint is great for a lot of projects, but we find that tiles and paint don’t tend to go hand in hand.”

Try these to help paint kitchen tiles

How long will painted kitchen tiles last?

Well-prepared and painted kitchen tiles will last longer than poorly prepared tiles, but painted tiles still don’t have a long shelf life. Larkins says, “Painted wall tiles can potentially last for up to 5 or 6 years, but this will be reliant on the paint quality.” He adds, “Walls near sinks may not last as long as dry walls, so they may begin to show signs of wear faster."

Floor tiles are a different proposition, continues Larkins, “Painted floor tiles can last up to 2 years, but this will depend on the amount of foot traffic and maintenance the tiles receive, as kitchen floor tiles will need to be sealed and touched up regularly.”

Methods for painting kitchen tiles

If you decide to paint your kitchen tiles, you need to choose a method. Here we look at the quick and easy to the more realistic and time-consuming.

1. Paint everything

The straightforward option is to paint all. Larkin says, “You can paint the tiles and the grout all the same colour to save yourself time.” This is the quick, easy option, but it lacks any finesse.

2. Get the traditional look

While painting over grout lines gives a uniform look, the wall or floor won’t appear tiled. To help redefine the tiles, Larkin suggests, “Go back in with a grout pen to redefine the grout lines after painting for a traditional look.” This is very much a temporary solution that will look good for months, not years.

3. Regrout

If you are looking for a realistic makeover, Larkins suggests removing the grout before painting. He says, “Use a specialist grout removal tool or blade to scrape the grout out from between the tiles, but work carefully and make light passes to avoid damaging the tiles.” He adds, “After this, scrub the joints between the tiles to ensure that all remaining grout is removed before painting, and vacuum the area to remove dust.”

To finish paint the tiles and leave them to dry for at least 24 hours. Check out our How to grout tiles guide to complete the job.

4. Add tile decals

Adding tile decals can elevate painted tiles to new heights. However, you can’t apply straight away, says Larkin. “You should wait a few weeks after painting to allow the paint to fully cure.” He adds, “Decals will adhere best to smooth surfaces, so tiles that have a rough or matte finish may need to be lightly sanded with a fine-grit sandpaper.”

How to prep kitchen tiles for painting

Good preparation is key to a successful paint project. The first thing to do is clean the kitchen tiles and grout to ensure they are free of dirt, dust, and grease. Larkin says start by scrubbing the grout, “Scrub the grout between tiles using a toothbrush and gentle cleaner.” Sugar soap is a popular and cost-effective choice. Mix up the sugar soap accordingly and ‘Scrub the tiles with a scouring sponge,” adds Larkins.

To improve adhesion on smooth tiles, sand first, says Larkins, “A fine grit sandpaper grade is best for this (between 120 and 220 grit), and then vacuum the area to remove dust.”

How to paint kitchen tiles

To start, you need a high-quality primer to provide a stable base coat. Nick Parsons, technical manager at Harris, tells you how, “Apply a quality tile primer and topcoat with an angled brush, such as this Harris Seriously Good Walls & Ceilings Angled Paint Brush from Amazon." He adds, “For the main areas, use a mini roller with a low‑pile sleeve to achieve a smooth, professional finish."

If you are painting floor tiles, thoroughly clean the floor before applying primer. Parsons says, “Use an all-purpose paintbrush to work primer into grout lines and edges.” He adds, “For the main floor, a roller (like this Harris Seriously Good Walls & Ceilings Twin Medium Pile Paint Roller Set from Amazon) with a medium or long‑pile sleeve on an extension pole will provide even coverage and help you build a smooth, durable finish suitable for everyday interior use.”

Just remember to start opposite a doorway so you don’t paint yourself into a corner.

Alternatives to painting kitchen tiles

As already mentioned, painting kitchen tiles isn’t a long-term solution. Other options will provide a better solution. Kitchen wall panels (such as B&Q's Pattern Concrete: Decorative Ceiling and Wall Panels) can quickly cover large areas of wall space, are budget-friendly, and easy to fit.

Another viable alternative is to tile over tiles, Larkin says, “You can try tiling over tiles instead of painting them, but the current tiles must provide a solid, stable surface for this to work effectively.”

He adds, “You will also need to check that there will be sufficient clearance for the additional tile thickness around doors and windows, and check that your walls will be capable of handling the additional weight.”

If you decide not to paint your kitchen floor tiles, explore our kitchen floor ideas and modern kitchen tiling ideas for inspiration. When you decide what you want, save money by installing the kitchen floor tiles yourself.

If you’re doing your own tiling project, don’t forget to use tile spacers. These inexpensive tools slot in between tiles during the laying process, ensuring your grout joints are even and that you get a neat finish.

Tiny, plastic tile spacers can cost £5 or less for a pack of 1,000, but you shouldn’t just purchase the first product you spot. Differences in size and type will affect a spacer’s suitability for a particular tiling task.

We asked tiling experts how to choose the right tile spacers for your project – and how to use them effectively when tiling a wall.

What are tile spacers for?

Whether you're tiling a kitchen wall or tiling a bathroom floor, tile spacers are a small tiling tool, used in large quantities during the tile laying process to ensure the grout gap between tiles is consistently at the desired width.

Whichever of the many tile laying patterns you choose, from straight lay to herringbone, suitable tile spacers can be used to create a uniform, professional-looking effect.

“I couldn’t live without tile spacers,” says Kevin Bailey, owner and director of Tiler Required?, a Buckinghamshire-based tiling company. “They do a good job of holding tiles level and straight, with a consistent grout gap.”

During laying, spacers also perform the essential role of limiting movement in the tiles, as your tile adhesive sets them in place. “Wherever you’re butting tiles up together, spacers ensure they won’t decouple from the substrate if the wall expands or contracts,” says Kevin.

Achieving the correct grout joints in a tiled area is not just an aesthetic goal. In some cases, BSI guidance stipulates that grout joints between tiles must fall within a specific range of widths.

“The grout joints exist for a purpose,” says Nathan Rees, Commercial Sales Representative of RUBI UK, a manufacturer of tiler spacers and other tiling products. “They are there to allow some flexibility or movement in the wall or floor, and the spacer size determines the width of the joint.”

Spacers can be placed into the corners where tiles meet in a pattern, or sticking out between the faces of two tiles, depending on your preferred method.

Common sizes and types of tile spacers

There are three main types of tile spacers: cross spacers, T-shaped spacers and wedge spacers.

• Cross spacers: "These are the standard type," says Nathan Rees. "They’re available in sizes from 1 to 10mm in increments of one millimetre and they’re used for your standard tiling set out with tiles in a grid."
• T-spacers: "These have three legs and also come in various sizes," explains Nathan. "They are used for certain laying patterns, especially a brick bond effect where the corners of the tiles form a ‘T’ shape rather than a cross."
• Spacer wedge: "These can be looked upon as an adjustable-size spacer, with the joint width depending on how far you push a wedge in," adds Nathan. "They help with laying irregularly shaped tiles, and they come in 5mm or 7.5mm sizes, both of which taper to zero. You’d use them for slight adjustments rather than standard jobs."

Another important point of difference is the length of a spacer’s legs. “You can get ones with short legs or ones with long legs,” Kevin Bailey notes. “I use long because they go a bit further along the joint, which helps to make sure it’s straight and consistent.”

Most tile spacers are made by a handful of brands. “I usually use RUBI spacers, which are easy to find at shops like Topps Tiles, although I occasionally use Vitrex spacers (available from Screwfix) instead, if their spacers are more convenient to get hold of,” says Kevin.

“There isn’t much difference between makes, but you do get used to using what you use – some spacers feel a bit more brittle and snap more easily than others," he adds.

Shop tile spacers for your tiling project

How to choose the right tile spacers

They key point to remember is that choosing the right tile spacers for a tiling project comes down to how wide your grout joints will be.

“The correct grout joint width (and therefore spacer size) will often depend on the size of the tile,” says Nathan Rees. “Large tiles tend to require larger grout joints, but also if you’ve got tiles that aren’t perfectly calibrated – so their sizing is slightly off – then using different sizes of spacers can allow the tiler to make up for imperfections in the size of certain tiles.”

Grout gaps of around 3mm for wall tiles and around 6mm for floor tiles are common, but there are exceptions. For instance, relatively small, rectangular metro tiles tend to look best with the narrowest compatible grout gap, while large-format tiles often require an especially wide gap to account for stresses caused by movement in the underlying floor or wall.

Some tile laying patterns dictate that T-shaped tile spacers with three ‘legs’ will be easier to use than a conventional cross-shaped spacer.

“If you’ve got brick-style subway tiles set out in a running bond laying pattern, the T-shaped spacers are fairly handy,” says Kevin Bailey. “We certainly go through a few of them on metro wall installations, and anything else that’s on a brick bond.”

Fitting tile trim is another way to ensure your tiling project has a professional looking finish.

How to use tile spacers

Using tile spacers is pretty straightforward: you place them into the gaps where the edges of tiles come close to others, allowing the legs of the spacer to determine the gap between the tiles. You can do this throughout the laying process, adding spacers with every new tile you lay.

However, one tiling mistake DIYers sometimes make is removing spacers at the wrong time, while the tiles are setting in place with your chosen tile adhesive. Remove them too early, and the tiles may shift or fall.

How long your tile adhesive takes to dry depends on the product you are using. “The right time to remove them depends on your adhesive,” says Kevin Bailey. “We tend to use either a rapid set or a standard set tile adhesive. Rapid set is usually set after three hours, but it is secure enough for spacers to be removed within about 30 minutes. With standard set adhesive, leave the spacers in place for 24 hours.”

In some cases, you might not need to remove the spacers at all. “If you push the spacer down far enough then you can grout straight over the spacer, provided it is 2-3mm below the face of the tile,” Kevin notes.

It's important you work out the amount of tile adhesive you need too.

FAQs

Are tile levelling kits better than tile spacers?

Tile levelling kits are a more advanced tile laying solution, often used by professional tilers and sometimes favoured by DIYers who have plenty of tiling to do.

“We use levelling kits and systems with larger format tiles,” says Kevin Bailey, owner and director of Tiler Required?. “They’re made up of a baseplate that goes under the tiles, and a clip and wedge system that holds the tiles in place from above and ensures the gaps are the right width.”

“For anything with tiles over 300 x 600mm, we would tend to use this system,” he adds.

What did tilers use before tile spacers?

Tilers have long aspired to achieve uniform grout joints, but tile spacers are a fairly recent invention, patented by Bob Joos in 1989. Before then, tilers had to make do with less specialised items.

“Around 25 years ago, when I first started in the industry a lot of the older tradesmen used matchsticks or dowels, and they asked me why I used spacers,” says Kevin Bailey. “But for me, it’s always been a plastic spacer.”

The same cross-shaped and T-shaped spacers have dominated the market for decades, but manufacturers have designed newer types more recently, securing some uptake among tilers.

“Some people use horseshoe spacers now which are a larger, U-shaped spacer,” says Kevin. “I haven’t moved on to these yet, as I feel that the old cross or T-spacers do a job that’s not broken and doesn’t need fixing.”

Small tools and materials such as tile spacers are sometimes overlooked, but they can make a vast difference to DIY projects at minimal expense.

Our guides on masking tape vs painter’s tape and how to avoid drilling into wires by using a wire detector will help you to top up your home renovation know-how.

Despite its thick consistency, you might be surprised with the answer to the question, 'does paint freeze?' While there can be some differences depending on the type of paint, the fact is, paint can, and does freeze.

So, to help you avoid a DIY disaster this winter, we asked paint experts to explain why does paint freeze, how you can avoid it happening and if you've already discovered a frozen tin of paint, is there anything you can do to salvage it?

From where not to store your paint, to solutions for bringing it back to life, here's what's recommended.

Do all types of paint freeze?

"Paint can certainly freeze, and it mainly happens if it’s stored in conditions that are too cold," confirms Anna Hill, brand director and colour consultant at Fenwick & Tilbrook.

As with any item that freezes, the key number is when the temperature reaches 0°C or 32°F. Go below this and it's almost inevitable that the freeze will set in. However, not all paints will immediately freeze at this temperature.

"Water-based paints are the most affected and will certainly freeze given half a chance!" says Anna. "This is because of the water content, and when the water freezes, it expands and breaks down the structure of the paint, causing the binders and pigments to separate," explains Anna.

"Once that structure is damaged, it can’t always be put back together," explains James Knighton, Victory Colours' technical director. "In short: freezing disrupts the chemistry that makes paint behave like paint. Solvent-based paints on the other hand are far more resistant and rarely freeze in normal UK conditions," James adds.

That said, cold conditions can still have the potential to make oil-based paints thicken. Plus, if the temperature of the space where you store your paint repeatedly drops way below freezing, even oil-based paints may potentially succumb to damage.

How can I make sure my paint doesn't freeze?

The key to paint not freezing? Storing it in the right place, something Homebuilding & Renovating's brand director and experienced renovator, Laura Crombie, discovered to her peril.

"We purchased around 15 litres of premium paint to use in our home renovation and happily popped it in the garage without a second thought," she tell us. "It stayed there throughout the winter, and when we were finally ready to paint, we bought it inside.

"Popping off the lids was a big shock," she continues. "Instead of beautifully smooth emulsion that just needed a quick stir, it had all completely separated inside the tin. Even stirring it well made no difference. It was ruined and we had to dispose of it."

So how you can avoid making the same mistake?

"Paint should always be stored somewhere dry, frost-free and temperature-stable, ideally between 5 and 20°C," recommends James Knighton. "If you wouldn’t be comfortable sitting in the space in winter without a coat, your paint won’t be either," he adds.

"We recommend that when it comes to storing paint, it is kept upright in dry conditions above 5°C and protected from frost," agrees Anna. "This means the garden shed, van, or garage is not an advisable home for your paint as they are more exposed to extreme temperatures."

"The best places are: a utility room, a cupboard under the stairs or a heated garage or workshop," advises James. A stable temperature is the key to paint not freezing, which also means you might also want to avoid the attic if your loft insulation isn't up to scratch.

"We've since made the decision to store our paint under the sink in the utility room," confirms Laura. "It's not too hot, or too cold and we've not had any issues since we made the switch."

What can you do if your paint has frozen?

The good news is, "that if paint is stored above about 5°C, then generally good quality paint will keep for a good few years," Anna Hill tells us.

However, and this is where you need to take note. "Store it somewhere too cold and let it freeze for an extended period of time and I would say there really is no coming back from that," she warns. But, how long it's been cold can make a difference to whether you get to use your paint or not.

"If paint has been lightly frozen once or twice and allowed to thaw slowly at room temperature, it may still be usable," says James Knighton. "However, if paint has frozen solid, frozen multiple times, or separated into lumps, it’s usually beyond saving. The structure of the paint breaks down, which affects performance, durability and finish. At that point, it’s best not to risk it."

"If it’s only been exposed to extreme cold for a short time, I’d recommend letting it thaw out indoors, mechanically stirring it, and then checking for a smooth, creamy consistency," Anna says.

"Do remember though you don’t want cottage-cheese texture or sour-smelling paint," she adds. "If this is what you see when you open the tin, they're clear signs your paint has gone off and shouldn’t be used at all," she warns.

Keen to know the other signs that the paint you've been storing might have seen better days? Find out how to tell if your emulsion paint has gone off, and then make sure you know how to dispose of paint the correct way to avoid any environmental impact.

If you have toilet flush problems, they are hard to ignore and need to be addressed as soon as possible. If they are left, they will only get worse, and no one wants to be without a working toilet.

Thankfully, regardless of the type of toilet you have, toilet flush issues can be fixed on a DIY basis. Even the more complicated issues, such as a broken flush valve, can be replaced by a competent DIYer. And the new parts are not expensive.

Here, you'll find what you need to know to resolve any annoying flush issues.

Common toilet flush problems

There are many reasons you may be experiencing toilet flush problems. Still, some problems are more common than others, as Jamie Heath, plumbing & heating expert from Build & Plumb, reveals, “The most common toilet flush problems typically involve a broken flush button or the cistern not filling.”

He continues, “A broken flush handle or button can be caused by multiple issues, one being that the button is getting stuck due to a buildup of dirt and debris.” But this isn’t the only reason, explains Heath. “It can also be caused by the connection between the button and flush valve being disengaged.” He adds, “More simply, it could just be a faulty button or mechanism due to wear and tear over time.”

Alongside a broken flush button, another common problem is low water levels, shares Heath, “Low water levels in your cistern can be a main cause of toilet flush problems, as a toilet needs a full tank of water to create enough force to empty the toilet bowl.” He adds, “When the water level is too low, it doesn’t provide enough water, often resulting in a weak flush. Water levels can typically be too low due to a problem with the fill valve and float mechanism”.

Try these to help fix toilet flush problems

Other reasons for toilet flush problems

Toilet flush problems are not exclusive to broken flush handles and low water levels. There are other issues that can be the cause, as Heath shares, “A constant flow of running water from the toilet tank is a fairly common problem that is typically caused by a faulty fill valve.”

He adds, “A fill valve is responsible for refilling the water tank after you flush the toilet; however, if it becomes faulty, clogged, or misaligned, water can continue to flow into the tank.” If you are having this issue, he says, “It’s important to replace your fill valve as soon as possible to prevent wasting large amounts of water and increasing your water bill”.

Another issue is worn, damaged, or clogged flush valve seals. Heath explains, “These valves create a tight shut-off at the bottom of the cistern to prevent water from leaking into the toilet bowl. Therefore, when they are damaged or clogged, they won’t seal properly, resulting in low water levels in the cistern and a weak flush”.

If you live in a hard-water area, scale can be an issue, explains Laurence Barwick-Smith, a wastewater and drainage specialist at KEE: “A buildup of limescale can cause a toilet float to stick, which can affect how the toilet flushes.” He adds, “If this is happening, you need to clean the float and fill valve with an acidic cleaner like white vinegar or a descaler. If the problem persists after cleaning, you may need to replace the float mechanism.”

How to fix toilet flush issues

Different toilet flush problems require different solutions. Fortunately, most of these can be fixed by yourself. Here, we look at some simple solutions to resolve any flushing issues.

Flush mechanism

If the flush handle/button feels loose, it's simple to sort. Barwick-Smith says, “You should tighten the nut that holds this in place.” He adds, "However, if you have a chain, this should only be tight enough so that there is a small amount of slack when the handle is not in use, as too much slack can prevent the flapper from lifting fully.”

Another issue could be that it needs a clean, says Heath, “It could be that the button is getting stuck due to a buildup of dirt and debris. If this is the case, you must isolate your water supply, remove the button and clean it using a soft cloth.”

Faulty fill valve

A common issue is a hissing noise. Barwick-Smith explains why, “A hissing noise coming from the toilet can suggest that it is the fill valve causing flushing issues. Check that the valve is fully open and not clogged with debris or scale.” He adds, “The valve can be cleaned, but they are usually inexpensive to replace completely."

Low water level

If the water level is low, the first step is to remove the cistern lid and check the level. Barwick-Smith says, “Ideally, it should be a centimetre or two below the top of the overflow tube. He adds, "If it is too low, adjust the water level using the float mechanism."

Heath explains how to do this: “Take a flat head screwdriver and turn the screw anti-clockwise to raise the water level or clockwise to lower the water level.” To finish, he adds, “Then with the lid still off, flush your toilet and see if the water level rises; it should be around an inch below the top of the overflow tube.”

Blockage

If you have a minor blockage, you can use a plunger. Barwick-Smith says, “Ensure that there is enough water in the toilet bowl to cover the head of the plunger, and create a seal around the opening of the drain before plunging vigorously.”

If a plunger doesn’t sort out the issue, you may have a larger blockage. Barwick-Smith adds, “Larger clogs may require the use of a toilet auger to break up and remove the blockage.” Check our what is a drain snake guide for more on this.

How to replace a flush valve unit

Replacing a flush valve is something a DIYer can tackle, but there are a few steps to follow to ensure you don’t flood your bathroom. Jamie Heath runs through the initial step. “When replacing a flush valve, it’s crucial to start by isolating the water supply to the cistern.”

He adds, “Once the water supply has been isolated, you must flush the toilet to empty it. If the cistern doesn’t refill after flushing, then the water has successfully been isolated."

The next step is to remove the tank/cistern. Heath says, “Remove the toilet tank so you can access the old flush valve. Once you have access to the old flush valve, you can remove it and install a new flush valve.”

But he adds a note of caution, “It’s important to note that this process isn’t the same for all types of toilets and their specific flush mechanisms.” He continues, “Flush valves can differ depending on whether you have a single or dual flush, so you must ensure that your new flush valve is suitable for your toilet.”

If unsure about anything, consult a professional. Alternatively, a simple option is to take a pic of the unit and go to your local hardware store for advice on a like-for-like replacement.

Replacing an inlet valve

An inlet valve is connected to the water supply and fills the cistern. But if it's not working you can just replace this part rather than the flush valve unit. Heath explains, “Replacing a toilet inlet valve, also known as a fill valve, is typically considered to be easier than replacing a flush valve unit.”

He adds, “This is because inlet valve replacements don’t require the removal of the entire toilet tank. However, you will still need to isolate the water supply and empty the cistern before replacing an inlet valve.”

If you can’t fix your toilet flush issues, it might be time to replace your old toilet with a new one. Check out our toilet dimensions guide to ensure you get the right size and new toilet costs to see how much to budget. If you're planning a full toilet renovation, our small downstairs bathroom ideas will offer inspiration.

Want to know how to lay kitchen floor tiles? There’s plenty to consider and many choices to make to ensure your kitchen floor looks good and lasts. Before laying any tiles, you’ll need to decide which type of tile suits your style and budget.

Then, you must make the right design decisions. Will your selected tiles match your kitchen ideas? Getting it wrong can be an expensive mistake. After that, check and prepare the floor correctly. If you skip this step, you might find yourself replacing tiles sooner than you'd like. Here, we guide you to make the right choices to achieve the kitchen floor you desire.

Best type of tile to use on a kitchen floor

There are several options for kitchen floor tiles, but porcelain tiles are a popular choice. Abbas Youssefi, managing director of Porcelain Superstore, shares why. “For most modern kitchens, porcelain tiles are the go-to choice. They’re dense, durable, and handle everyday family life without easily marking. They also work brilliantly with underfloor heating, and the latest designs convincingly mimic the look of natural stone without the upkeep.”

Isabel Fernandez, director of Quorn Stone recommends porcelain or natural stone, “Porcelain is durable, low-maintenance and water-resistant, while natural stone adds timeless character and texture.”

But, points out Stephen Russell, tiler at Ashley Cross Tiling, “ Choice is a complete personal preference.” He adds, “Porcelain and stone are both hard-wearing, but ceramic tiles are typically the budget option.”

Youssefi suggests an alternative budget option, “If you're on a tighter budget, LVT tiles are typically the most affordable option; but for longevity, porcelain is hard to beat.”

Try these to help lay kitchen floor tiles

How to prep the floor for kitchen tiles

How you prep the floor depends on the type of floor you have. The easiest floor to work with is typically concrete. Russell explains how to prep, “If a concrete or screeded floor is flat, no preparation is needed. However, if the floor is uneven, use self-levelling compound to even out the floor and use powdered floor adhesive for all these types of floors.”

If you have a wooden floor or floorboards, you need to prep differently, explains Colin Lincoln-Evans, Buyer at Tile Mountain, “In the UK, tiling directly onto old floorboards is a common cause of cracked grout and loose tiles. The best practice is to use a high-quality cement-based tile backer board, securely fixed and fully supported, to create a rigid, stable surface.”

Russell says, “Use cement board screwed down every six inches.” He adds, “Use a mask if cutting it with an angle grinder.”

If you are tiling over underfloor heating, Russell says, “Use self-levelling compound to cover the wires. Then use floor tile adhesive to lay the tiles as normal.” He adds, “At no point should you use nails or screws for any reason as these could damage the heating wires.”

Lincoln-Evans adds, “It’s essential to use flexible tile adhesive and grout to cope with thermal movement, with larger format tiles, an anti-fracture membrane should be considered.”

Where to start laying kitchen floor tiles

The shape of the room can have a bearing on where you start, but Isabel Fernandez points out the common option, “A common starting point is the centre of the room. This ensures the pattern stays balanced and cut tiles are positioned along the edges where they are less noticeable, giving a neat, considered finish.”

To ensure that you get the best finish, Russell says, “Measure out the room to gauge where you will get the biggest cut tiles to walls and units.” He adds, “Small cuts look bad and are hard to cut. Avoid at all costs.”

After measuring up, Youssefi says, “It’s worth dry-laying a few tiles first; it only takes a minute and gives you a clear feel for the best place to begin.”

What you’ll need to lay kitchen floor tiles

To tile a kitchen floor properly, Youssefi suggests the following gear.

• Tile adhesive and grout - use a powdered adhesive
• Notched trowel - the size depends on tile size (often 10mm for floors)
• Tile spacers or levelling clips - to keep joints even
• Tile cutter - manual for straight cuts, electric wet cutter for more awkward cut-outs (thy thos for heavy duty tiles (Excel 920mm Bridge Wet Tile Cutter from B&Q)
• Rubber mallet & spirit level - to keep tiles flat as you go - (try this Tough Master Spirit Level Set from Amazon)
• Grout float - to work the grout into the tiles (try this QEP Molded Rubber Grout Float from Amazon)
• Silicone - for movement joints around the edges
• Buckets, sponge and mixing paddle - simple but essential

Stephen Russell recommends the following tools, “Wet cutters are best for DIYers as floor tiles can be very hard to cut.” He adds, “A deep-notch trowel is needed as tiles need to be buttered on the back as well as putting adhesive on the floor.”

He adds, “Use a gauge trowel (like this OX Pro Brick Trowel from Amazon) to knock up the adhesive if you don’t have a drill with a mixer (like this Silverline Mixing Paddle from Amazon). In addition, he adds, “Buckets, grout float, pencil and sponges to clean as you go, and for wiping of excess grout when grouting.”

Tips for laying kitchen floor tiles

1. Choosing the right pattern

This can depend on the tile chosen; some are more straightforward than others. Fernandez says, “Classic patterns like a straight grid or running bond work well in kitchens.” If doing the floor DIY, it's best to stick to simple straight-line patterns. But herringbone and stretcher bond patterns add interest.

2. Open up space with large tiles

Fernandez extols the virtues of larger floor tiles: “Larger tiles can make a space feel more open.” However, she adds, “Consider the room size."

Lincoln-Evans adds, “Larger format tiles can make a kitchen feel more spacious because there are fewer grout lines breaking up the floor, but they do demand a flatter subfloor and benefit from a tile-levelling system to keep lippage to a minimum.”

3. Applying adhesive

Adding adhesive is straightforward, Russell says, “Apply adhesive to the floor using a deep-notch trowel and butter the back of the tile to form a good bond.” If new to tiling, have a few practice runs first.

4. Clean as you go

“Clean as you go” is Fernandez's advice. Russell adds, “Clean the face of tiles and the joints as you go, as this is easier than trying to clean set tile adhesive.” Make sure you have a sponge and a bucket of clean water with you when working.

FAQs

How long does floor adhesive take to dry?

This will depend on what floor tile adhesive has been used, explains Youssefi, “If you’ve used rapid-set adhesive, you can normally walk on the tiles later the same day. With standard adhesive, it’s best to wait until the next morning, and avoid placing heavy furniture on the floor for at least 24 hours.”

What is the ideal spacer size for kitchen floor tiles?

Abbas Youssefi suggests a variety of spacer sizes, “For most modern rectified porcelain tiles, a 2mm spacer provides the neatest, most contemporary finish. These tiles are cut with precise edges, so they sit closer together without appearing cramped.”

However, if you have a different tile or layout, he suggests an alternative, “For other styles - such as modular layouts, herringbone patterns or tiles with chipped or wavy edges - a slightly wider joint often works better.”

He adds, “A 3mm joint gives these patterns better definition and allows for the small variations that come with this style of tile.”You can use larger spacers if you prefer this style; 10mm is the maximum recommended size.

If you’re undecided about what kitchen floor tiles you want, then you need to check out our kitchen floor tile ideas. Alternatively, see our kitchen vinyl flooring ideas. If thinking of what else you can do in your kitchen, check our kitchen island ideas for inspiration.

Any tiler will tell you: the best time to fix a tiling mistake is before it happens. Correcting errors with tiling becomes very difficult once the tiles have adhered, often requiring the removal and breakage of tiles and adhesive.

To reduce the risk of costly setbacks when implementing your kitchen, hallway or bathroom tiling ideas, we asked professional tilers about some of the most common tiling mistakes DIYers are likely to make – and how to avoid them.

“A tiled floor or wall is a finished surface, and if you’re attempting it DIY, there are so many jobs that can ruin it if they’re done badly,” says Ryan Renforth of R.I Tiling Specialists.

“If a homeowner calls up and tells us they’ve made mistakes that need fixing, we request that they remove everything and get the walls or flooring put good before we get involved – because it could affect our reputation if we were associated with a project where tiling mistakes have been made.”

1. Poor substrate preparation

The substrate is the surface which the tiles go onto. It needs to be prepared carefully so that the adhesive and tiles can be laid properly.

As Renforth puts it: “if you start with the right foundations, you’ll get the right outcomes. So, if the wall isn’t flat, it should be plastered to be made as flat and plumb as possible, while uneven floorboards should be removed and replaced.”

Make sure the substrate is clean, dry and free of dust and debris before you apply adhesive. If you fail to do this, it might struggle to stick.

2. Using the wrong laying pattern

Naturally, you’ll want to set out your tiles in a laying pattern that you find visually pleasing. However, it’s sometimes overlooked that certain shapes of tiles can be laid more neatly in certain layouts.

For instance, with rectangular ‘brick tiles’, choosing the wrong layout may lead to ‘lippages’, where the edge of one tile protrudes over the edge of another.

“I’ve seen a lot of customers laying these tiles on a half bond [with the pattern for each row starting half a tile offset from the previous row], but a lot of manufacturers are now saying to use a third bond [one third of a tile offset] so you don’t get any lippages,” says Pino Mazzafiore of Terranean Tiles.

3. Using ready-mix adhesive for bathroom tiles

Tile adhesives come in various types, and the best one to use depends on the project specifics. Using a poorly suited type could lead to failed adhesion and cracked or broken tiles.

“A lot of people use a ready-mixed adhesive, which is an easy option but shouldn’t be used in a bathroom as it is not waterproof,” says Renforth. “If you use it in this room and a fitting starts to leak, or if silicone has been applied incorrectly, then the tile will fail and come off quicker.

“To tile a bathroom, you should use a standard-set adhesive that you’d mix with a drill and paddle.”

Shop tiling accessories

4. Choosing a poorly matched grout

You might be surprised at the range of grout colours available at specialist tile showrooms. Choosing the right shade and formulation matters to the finished look of your tiling.

“Long gone are the days of using white grout with every tile,” says Mazzafiore. “The trend we’re seeing at the moment is using a grout that’s the same colour as the tiles. Colour matching creates a flawless look.”

It’s also important to mix your chosen grout carefully. “Make sure you mix it in the same ratio from one wall to the next,” Mazzafiore advises. “For example, if you’re doing 2:1 grout and water, keep that consistent so the colour of the grout will be the same on each wall.”

If tiling a bathroom or another wet space, we would recommend using a water-resistant grout.

5. Skipping the decoupling membrane (in some cases)

According to Renforth, you don’t always need to use a decoupling membrane – but for some tiled floors, it’s essential. This layer of material limits the motion transfer between a flexible substrate (such as wood or screed) and the tiles above. Without this membrane, excessive movement can cause cracks, delamination (the tiles come unstuck), and cracked or crumbling grout.

“A decoupling membrane is important on new screeds and over new underfloor heating systems which might be covered with a tongue-and-groove cement board,” says Renforth. “It’s only needed where movement beneath floor tiles is likely; not on every single install.”

6. Neglecting waterproof tanking in the bathroom

Before a professional tiler tiles a bathroom, they will protect the wall and floor surfaces with a waterproof membrane. This process of ‘waterproof tanking’ is strongly recommended for wet spaces by the British Standards Institute – and by Renforth.

“Shower areas in particular should be waterproof tanked,” he says. “The surface preparation for a shower costs around £50-60. You paint it on, you seal it, and it adds 10-15 years of life to your bathroom.

“For the sake of saving that money, your bathroom could leak, your ceiling could cave in and you could end up having to redo the bathroom.”

7. Not making enough allowance for wastage

Most DIYers understand that they need to buy a greater quantity of tiles than they would need to perfectly fill the required dimensions. This allows for wastage of tile area that will happen when you cut edge pieces for the boundaries of the tiled area. Nonetheless, it’s easy to buy too few.

“My advice is that you should always allow 20% wastage,” says Mazzafiore. “If you try to save money by getting only 10% extra, you might not have enough tiles for the job, depending on the cuts required. If you find yourself one box short, there’s no guarantee that the supplier will still be making the same tiles.

“When you’re buying a job lot of tiles online, make sure the seller has accounted for the wastage,” he adds.

FAQs

Is tiling suitable for DIYers?

Many DIYers do their own tiling, but there are many common tiling mistakes you’ll need to avoid, including the ones listed above. There’s no doubt that hiring a professional is likely to give you a better finish and less risk of mishaps. “That’s my best advice for any DIYer: try to find a decent tiler, check their credentials and use them if possible,” says Renforth.

If you are taking on your own tiling, remember to purchase plenty of tiles to allow for wastage, choose well suited grout and adhesive, and prepare your substrate (perhaps with a decoupling membrane) before you start laying the tiles.

Are wall tiles and floor tiles the same?

Most tiles are designed specifically for use on a certain type of surface – usually either a floor or a wall. Floor tiles are generally thicker and more durable than wall tiles, as they must bear the weight of people and furniture. Wall tiles are lighter, which helps them to stay in place.

Using wall tiles on the floor is likely to result in breakages, while floor tiles adhered to the wall are at risk of falling off. “This is why it’s important to check what type of tiles you’re buying and whether they’re suitable for walls or floors,” says Mazzafiore.

The best way of all to avoid tiling mistakes is to do plenty of research before your start tiling. Start by reading our guide on tiling a bathroom wall, how to tile a hallway floor and how long does tile adhesive take to dry.

Knowing how to cut a clean, precise hole in wood is a skill every DIYer should have in their toolkit. Whether you’re constructing a stud wall, fitting shelves, or threading cables through cabinets, many DIY projects require creating holes of the correct size.

To ensure success, you’ll need to invest in the right tools and employ the appropriate techniques. The best cordless drills and the correct drill bit will go a long way in ensuring a precise clean hole.

Here, we take a close look at the tools – and how to use them – to cut small, large, and irregular holes for a successful project.

Cutting small holes in wood

Small holes in wood are often used for dowels to join sheets of wood, pilot holes for screws, or to pass small cables through. A quick, simple way to make small holes is to use a wood drill bit. A standard wood drill typically comes in sizes up to 10mm. To drill a small hole in wood, simply select a suitable-sized drill bit. Common sizes for wooden dowels used in furniture and shelving are 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm. Mark the drilling spot, place the bit tip on the mark, ensure it is at 90 degrees, and start slowly before increasing speed.

Scott Godfrey, Construction trade consultant for Black Hammer, shares an alternative option, “For clean, accurate small holes in visible work, use a sharp brad‑point bit (like this Bosch Professional Brad point from B&Q). Its centre spur stops wandering, and the spurs score the fibres to leave a crisp rim.” He continues, “Mark the centre, clamp the work, and support the exit with a sacrificial backer to prevent tear‑out. Start square, use steady pressure, and ease off as the point is about to break through.”

However, successful hole cutting relies not only on the tool but also on the right technique, explains Godfrey. “Adjust speed and feed to the material.” He adds, “Softwoods tolerate higher speeds, while dense hardwoods and laminates prefer a slower speed and lighter feed to avoid burning or chipping.”

He adds, “On veneered or melamine panels, tape the face, score the layout with a knife, and always drill from the show face into a backer. For multiple holes, use a depth stop for blind holes and a simple jig or guide to maintain consistent spacing."

Try these tools to cut holes in wood

4 Tools to cut large holes

There are several options for cutting larger holes in wood. These are the ideal choice if you are looking to cut holes larger than a standard wooden drill bit can. Here, we look at the different tools you can use and reveal what they are typically used for and what sizes they usually cut.

1. Auger bits

These look similar to a standard drill bit, but their design has a few subtle differences, as Godfrey explains: “Auger bits have a screw point and a deep spiral that pulls the bit through, clearing chips efficiently.” He adds, “They are typically used for deep, straight holes in studs, joists, and beams where you need reach and good chip ejection, such as services and fixings.” These are typically available in sizes up to 32mm, like this Meccion Wood Drill Bit.

Godfrey explains what they are best for, “They are about depth and efficiency rather than producing the widest or neatest diameters on a show face.” He adds, “Use a slower speed in dense hardwoods and reduce feed as the screw point approaches the exit to limit breakout. Support the far side with a backer if you can, or stop short and finish from the other face for a cleaner edge.”

2. Spade drill bits

“Spade bits are flat paddle cutters with a centre point, designed to remove material quickly”, explains Godfrey. “They are typically used for fast through holes in framing and other hidden locations, where a crisp rim is not required.” Spade bits like this DEWALT Extreme Flat Wood Drill Bit 9 Piece Set from Amazon range in size from 12mm to 32mm.

He continues, “They can cover larger diameters than common small‑hole work, but they tend to tear fibres, especially in plywoods and laminates.” To get a cleaner result, Godfrey says, “Clamp a backer, tape the face, and slow down for the last few millimetres. For visible work, step over to a Forstner or hole saw to get a clean rim and reduce sanding.”

3. Hole saws

“Hole saws are cylindrical saw cups mounted on an arbour with a pilot bit, used for clean circular cut‑outs in sheet goods and thin timber,” shares Hargreaves. “They’re the go‑to for locks, pipe penetrations and downlights, and they cover a broad span of diameters with changeable cups.”

Hargreaves explains the best way to use a hole saw. “Slow the drill as the diameter increases, keep the saw square, and clear dust regularly to avoid burning.” He adds, “Tape the face, clamp a backer, and stop as soon as the pilot breaks through so you can finish from the other side for a neat edge.”

4. Forstener bits

Forstener bits (like this 30mm Forstner Bit Wood Drill Boring Hinge Hole Cutter from B&Q) are slightly different to other bits, explains Hargreaves, “Forstner bits cut very clean, flat‑bottomed holes guided by a rim rather than a long point, so they excel in cabinetry and furniture where the edge needs to be crisp.”

They are typically used to create recesses for hinges and dowel holes. Hargreaves continues, “They let you overlap holes, bore partial depth, and work close to edges with control.”

To use a Forstener bit, Hargreaves says, “Use lower speed and firm support, ideally with a drill guide or drill press for accuracy and repeatability. Back the work, peck to clear chips, and lightly chamfer the edge if the hole will be touched or finished.”

Shop tools for cutting a hole in wood

How to cut round and irregular shape holes

There are a few options for cutting large and irregularly shaped holes. Godfrey explains a popular option for large round holes, “A router with a circle jig (like this Milescraft 1219 Circle Guide Kit from Amazon) or a template gives very clean, repeatable holes and arcs, provided you use a sharp cutter and take shallow passes rather than trying to remove all the material at once.”

To help ensure a clean hole he adds, “Clamp the work firmly, guide the router smoothly, and use dust extraction because routers generate fine chips.”

Irving shares his thoughts, “A router can also be used to cut non-round holes in wood, using different wood cutting jigs.”

For irregularly shaped holes, like countertop holes for sinks, Irving says, “A jigsaw can be used for cutting both large round holes or irregular shapes in wood.” He adds, “These saws have fine-toothed blades that are good for cutting around outlines of shapes. A jigsaw takes more concentration and control than a hole saw, as you will have to move slowly to ensure your cut is precise.” Try this Makita DJV180ZX LXT Cordless Top Handle Jigsaw from Amazon to cut holes and shapes.

FAQs

What is the largest commonly used wood drill bit size?

Hargreaves says, “Ten millimetres is a common everyday size for fixings and hardware.” He adds, “But 'small' in practice runs up to the top end of what you’d comfortably do with standard bits before switching to spade, Forstner, or a hole saw.”

Hargreaves adds more definition to the term small, “I treat anything needed for screws, plugs and light fittings as small, and step up to the next tool family when the hole needs more control or cleanliness.” He adds, “If the face is on show, I’ll choose the bit style that gives the neatest rim and drill from both sides using a pilot to keep the hole centred.”

Should I drill into wet wood?

Yes, you can, but it's not advised for a number of reasons, as Irving notes, “It’s typically advised against as the wet wood fibres can clog together, increasing friction and making the drill bit feel like it’s sticking.”

He adds, “Heat and friction when drilling can lead to worn and blunt drill bits. Furthermore, when the wood dries, it can shrink or warp, which leads to misaligned holes and problems with structural integrity”.

Should you lubricate drill bits before drilling?

Lubricants are not commonly used when drilling into wood. Irving explains why, “Lubricants, like cutting oil, can stain wood and cause problems when painting or staining wood after drilling.” He adds, “Furthermore, the oil can even cause the wood chips to clog in the grooves of the drill bit and ruin its effectiveness.”

If you are struggling to drill wood, Irving suggests a suitable alternative: “Use a small amount of wax, like beeswax, on your drill bit to prevent it from sticking when drilling. Wax can act as a dry lubricant to prevent staining or clogs, whilst reducing friction”

If you are fitting a kitchen worktop or fitting a kitchen sink, there’s a good chance you will need to trim or cut a hole in a worktop. If you’re thinking of fitting a new bathroom sink in a vanity unit, check out our bathroom sink ideas for insight and inspiration.

When Arnold Schwarzenegger first started demonstrating Lidl's power tools a while back, you couldn't help but notice. And Lidl’s reputation for offering quality at low prices made this partnership a hard-to-ignore combination.

The Terminator actor certainly packed a punch armed with his Lidl chainsaw, cutting muscles into a wooden sculpture of himself in their advert, all while exclaiming "power in the palms of your hands" is needed to make a success of something.

But clever advertising aside, as a seasoned DIYer I wanted to see if Lidl's power tools really were a bargain compared to the offerings from its bargain basement competitor: Amazon. I’ve used own-brand tools before and have rarely been disappointed, but who will win in our head-to-head? Surely Arnie – who used to be a bricklayer (yes, really) – can't lose, right?

Lidl's drill versus similar on Amazon

Every DIY enthusiast needs a drill. It’s usually the first power tool that any aspiring DIYer acquires. The Parkside Performance Cordless Drill Driver Starter Set is the ideal starter kit for any DIY novice. It has everything – with a regular price of just £39.99 – including two rechargeable batteries with a charger, 20 torque settings, an integrated LED light, a keyless chuck, 25 screwdriver bits, and a variety of wood and masonry drill bits.

And like all good modern power tools, it’s compatible with any other cordless Parkside power tool that uses the X 12V TEAM series rechargeable batteries. For peace of mind, it comes with a 5-year warranty. I’d say that’s impossible to ignore at such a low price point.

Can you buy it on Amazon? No, but the highly rated Parkside PABS 20-Li X20V Cordless Drill is yours for £33, with no battery or charger. A more powerful Parkside option is the Parkside Cordless 20v Drill at £65. This includes a better battery and a charger, but nothing else. An alternative at a similar price point is the well-received Einhell Power X-Change Drill, available for £45 including battery and charger.

Winner: Lidl, those batteries being includes is a brilliant saving

Lidl's sander versus what you can find on Amazon

Another frequent visitor to a DIYer's toolbox is a sander. If you paint, and let's be honest, what DIYer doesn’t, a sander is the perfect tool if you're painting skirting boards, doors, windows or architrave. The Parkside Multi Sander from Lidl comes in at a very respectable £23. Features a hook-and-loop fastener, an integrated dust-collection box, a soft-grip ergonomic handle, and a 3-year warranty.

This isn’t available on Amazon, but there are some very smart alternatives like this BLACK+DECKER Mouse 55W Detail Sander for just £22. It fits neatly in the hand, is lightweight, and its teardrop-shaped sanding pad allows it to get into all corners.

Winner: It's a tie

Lidl tile cutter versus Amazon

If you’re a keen DIY tiler, Lidl's Parkside Wet Tile Cutter is almost a must-have at £45. It includes one diamond-cutting disc, a tool for changing the saw blade, and a three-year warranty. For a little extra, you can get the Vitrex torque master power tile cutter from Amazon. It's highly rated, cuts tiles up to 25mm thick and includes a 110mm diamond blade

Winner: Lidl

Lidl's wet and dry vac versus similar on Amazon

When you're done, don’t forget to clean up. A wet and dry vac speeds up the process, and once again, Lidl have a very competitively priced model – Parkside Wet & Dry Vacuum Cleaner – at £40. You’ll struggle to do any better at this price point, but the Draper 1250W 15L Wet and Dry Vacuum Cleaner from Amazon comes close, or even better when on offer at £35.

Winner: Amazon

Power tools to buy on Amazon

Lidl's power tool accessories versus Amazon

Every power tool needs accessories, and Parkside haven’t forgotten this. You can get your hands on the Parkside Performance Hexagonal Wood Drill Bit Set and Parkside Performance Hexagonal Masonry Drill Bit Set, both for £4.99. These are hard-to-beat prices, but the Bosch 15-Piece Drill Bit Set on Amazon features both wood and masonry bits for just over £6.

When you need help with a DIY project, a small stepladder like the Parkside Folding Stepladder at £17.99 is perfect for a quick lift to reach the top of walls for painting and wallpapering. If you’re looking for something a little more robust, try the StepIt Premium 2 Step Ladder from Amazon.

If you need an extra pair of hands, but no one’s available to help, I find bar clamps are the perfect assistant. The Parkside Large Bar Clamps have a jaw width of 300mm and come as a 2-pack for just £6.99. Can you get them cheaper on Amazon? No, but these IRWIN QUICK-GRIP 150mm Mini Clamps are the perfect companion for smaller jobs, and they're less than a tenner.

Winner: Lidl

Lidl or Amazon?

Like Arnie famously said, “I’ll be back”, the next time I need a well-priced power tool. But will it be Amazon or Lidl? The boring answer is that it is most likely both depending on which tool I need, but if Arnie is really pinning me down on an either or answer, it's obviously going to have to be Lidl.

Power tools are the lifeblood of any good DIY project, so you need to make sure you have the right selection. Check out our best cordless drills, essential tools I buy on Amazon and jigsaw vs circular saw guides to make sure you are ready for your next DIY project.

When my partner and I decided to replace our tired galley kitchen with a new Wickes design, I assumed it would be fairly straightforward. We’d start with a bit of measuring, spend an hour or so making colour and unit choices at the showroom, and then after a couple of flat-pack building sessions (one of my specialities), we’d be done. Spoiler alert: I was wrong.

In reality, fitting a kitchen – even a budget-friendly one – requires better-than-average carpentry skills, the right tools, some out-of-the-box thinking and a lot of patience. Don’t get us wrong, the end result is beautiful (we’re still proudly showing it off to visitors a year later). It looks far more expensive than it actually was, fits our space like a glove and has the timeless Shaker look and splash of colour we craved. But that’s not to say we didn’t have a few issues along the way.

Here are all the things we wish we’d known before we started.

1. Measure absolutely everything

It sounds obvious, but accurate measurements will make or break your design. We measured the walls and existing units several times before we headed to the store for our design appointment, but made an educated guess at the position of our window and door openings. Things could have gone badly wrong if we hadn't opted for a simple galley kitchen idea similar to the kitchen it replaced.

If you’re planning wall units or integrated appliances, make sure every dimension is precise – including the width and height of any windows, cooker hood placement (we kept our existing extractor and range cooker to cut costs), and even how far your fridge doors will open. Our integrated fridge freezer housing and 500mm drawer unit to the left of our range cooker just about squeezed in, but with just millimetres to spare.

Top tip: Even if you’re replacing your kitchen like for like, measure again anyway. Even small inaccuracies can throw off the alignment once you start fitting.

2. Take full advantage of the in-store design service

Working with our Wickes designer, Jamie at the Milton Keynes store, one of the best parts of the whole process. He was brilliant from the word go.

We started with a quick showroom tour. We made it clear we were pretty set on the Ohio, so he didn't waste too much time on showing us more expensive cabinetry, but Jamie did show us a few fittings we weren't sure would be available in this budget range, such as a pull-out bin unit. He also explained the importance of symmetry in the design, suggesting we flank our range cooker with drawer units for a smarter look.

Jamie really came into his own when it came to actually conjuring up our kitchen plans. The speed at which he brought our design to life was so impressive. We would have been struggling for hours to generate the same design, but his CAD plans were ready in minutes.

Top tip: If possible, stick with the same designer throughout. We decided to make a last-minute amendment – adding in an integrated fridge-freezer unit – when Jamie was on holiday. The extra unit and decor panels needed arrived as expected, but we forgot to factor in the extra handles (more on that later). I suspect that detail wouldn't have been missed with the amazing Jamie on the case.

3. Ask about discounts

Wickes runs promotions all year round – not just in January. We ordered in mid-August and ended up stacking discounts, saving more than 30% overall.

Ask your designer when the next promotion period is coming up. They’re often happy to tell you honestly whether waiting a week or a month might save you money.

We mostly used our existing appliances, and sourced our integrated fridge freezer, tiles and tap separately. However, our kitchen cabinets, plinths, cornicing, fascias, worktops, handles, integrated waste bins and ceramic sink came in at £3,024, which felt like exceptional value for the quality.

4. You can mix budget units with higher-end details

We chose one of Wickes’ most affordable DIY ranges, which was great for keeping costs down. But we deliberately upgraded some details to give it a more premium look.

Our faux Calcutta Marble laminate worktop has squarer edges than the rounded “bullnose” style of the most affordable options, and it makes all the difference. We also picked ceramic farmhouse sink for £219, rather than a budget stainless steel one.

Combined with Elgin Brushed Brass Square handles from a higher-end range, the kitchen looks more expensive than it actually was.

Incidentally, each Ohio unit comes with standard chrome handles included, which will arrive regardless of whether you upgrade or not. We chose to sell these on eBay to recoup some of the cost of the new ones.

5. But prepare for more measuring

If you’re using non-standard kitchen handles, at least with the Ohio, you’ll need to mark out new holes before drilling them. The supplied markings are set for standard fittings that come with the units.

This wasn't such a bother on the vertically attached handles, as you're able to use the pre-marked bottom drill hole and just re-mark the top. But we spent an age measuring and re-measuring with our tape measure (like this one from Amazon) to make sure the drawer and dishwasher handles lined up. A small paper template helps, as does a good spirit level.

It’s slow work, but it’s worth doing properly – misaligned handles are surprisingly noticeable, especially on a drawer unit.

6. Be well prepared for your delivery

We ordered our kitchen in mid August 2024, but it wasn't actually delivered until January 2025. There was a bit of a wait on delivery, plus we needed to factor in time for the room to be gutted, re-plastered, the floor tiled and walls painted. You set your delivery by calling Wickes as soon as you've paid for your order, but we'd definitely advise booking in as soon as possible to avoid a long wait, especially during peak times.

On delivery day, everything was well organised – the two-man team were super polite and friendly, and every item was ticked off and checked as they brought it into the house.

But you will need to be prepared for the dimensions of the pieces and how you'll get them into the house. The 3-metre worktops, for example, wouldn’t fit around corners, so they lived in the hallway until we could cut them down. If your kitchen isn’t directly off a straight hallway or you have tight turns, think carefully about how you’ll manoeuvre large panels and worktops inside.

Another key thing to do is to check every item as soon after delivery day, as you'll only have a few weeks' grace period to exchange any damaged or missing parts. The only issue we had was that one extra piece of plinth from a more expensive, darker green kitchen arrived. Other than that, there was nothing missing or damaged.

Tip: Measure your access routes, not just your kitchen. Worktops and tall larder units can be surprisingly awkward to move through standard doorways.

7. The carcasses are relatively easy to build

I love a flatpack, so was more than happy to spend a weekend building carcases. This is simple enough to do. Most units will require just a Phillips and flat-head screwdriver. I'd advice lying the unit pieces on the floor, but put down a sheet first, like this cotton dust sheet on Amazon, so they don't get stretched And it's better if there's two of you when building the tall cabinets as they are quite heavy to lift.

You will also need to have a good aim when screwing the back panel down, but other than that, it's a breeze. But that's not to say there aren't bigger challenges up ahead.

8. Don’t underestimate decor panels

Decor panels might not sound that exciting, but they make a big difference. These narrow panels go at the ends of units to hide the exposed white carcasses and give the kitchen a properly “built-in” look.

We didn’t order quite enough and later wished we’d added one more where the fridge freezer unit meets the wall. You don't really notice that it's not there, but it would have give the whole thing a tiny bit more symmetry.

9. But expect to have to trim them!

The biggest surprise for us when fitting the kitchen? The decor panels are slightly deeper and taller than the carcasses. It’s designed that way, apparently, so you can choose whether you want the panel to sit flush or create a framed “lip” around the doors.

We wanted ours flush, so it looked neater, more modern and less distracting, which meant carefully shaving millimetres off the back. It worked, but it was nerve-wracking – you only really get one go.

Tip: Double-check the front and back before cutting. We almost trimmed the wrong edge once, which would have been an expensive mistake.

10. Wall units take patience (and a steady hand)

Mounting the wall cabinets was by far the hardest part of the build. The brackets that hold them up need to align perfectly with the ones on the back of the unit – and the fixing point sits a few centimetres below the top edge, which is easy to misjudge.

A laser level is invaluable here. Our first attempt ended up about 3–4cm too low, and there’s only so many times you can re-drill a wall.

Tip: If you’re not confident with this stage, it’s worth paying a fitter to install the wall units. The base cabinets are relatively forgiving – the wall ones are not.

11. You'll probably spend hours tweaking the doors

Once the wall units are in place, you can start attaching your doors, which was where my hubby got a little fixated.

To start, you'll need to screw the hinge plates into the side of the cabinet, and the hinges to the door itself. The holes for these are pre-drilled, so it's another simple job.

Next you'll need to attach the hinge and hinge plates with another two screws. It's now that the obsessing begins as tightening these two screws and those attaching the hinge plate to the cabinet allow you to align the door perfectly. We were there until the early hours one night trying to get them all just right – and we did feel like we were going a little crazy at one point!

12. You might need a pro to fit the worktops

Given their weight, fitting the worktops is not a one-person job, and all though we did it ourselves, you will need decent tools. We used a circular saw, guide rail and two sets of a-frame saw horses to support both ends of the worktop.

The standard laminate worktops supplied by Wickes are 600mm deep, so you do need to make sure your cabinets (and those pesky fascia panels) are fixed tight against the wall, or you'll end up with a gap at the back.

We also used a normal cordless drill driver and then a jigsaw to cut out a hole for the inset sink, which again, involves a lot of measuring and patience as you don't what to make the hole any bigger than it needs to be. If you don't have the tools or confidence, we'd suggest you fit the units yourself but get a professional carpenter to handle the worktops.

Shop power tools to use

Would we fit our own Wickes kitchen again? Absolutely. Everything feels solid, that beautiful grey-green colour is timeless, and the overall look definitely doesn't scream weekend DIY project (well, we don't think so).

All in at under £4,000 including tiles, grout, sealant, and other little extras – our Wickes kitchen has truly transformed our home. And whenever someone admires it or wildly overestimates how much it cost us, it just reinforces how proud we are of the result.

If your pipes are making noise when the water is turned on, don’t panic; you are not alone. It’s not an uncommon occurrence when taps are turned on or a heating system kicks in. Most of the time, banging, rattling and whistling pipes are not a big issue.

However, noisy pipes can indicate problems that need attention. Radiators not heating up properly and spluttering taps can be caused from air in the system. But it might be something more serious. Here, we explore the common causes, how to fix them, and whether it’s time to call a professional.

Pipes making noise: Common causes and solutions

Noisy pipes can be caused by a host of different issues. Here, we look at the most common causes and possible ways to fix the problem, so your ears can get a rest.

1. Water hammer effect

This is a common reason for noisy pipes. Lincoln Smith, managing director of Custom Heat, explains: "Water hammer is that loud banging noise you hear when you turn a tap off quickly. It's caused by long runs of pipework where the water at the far end stops instantly when you shut off a quarter-turn tap, but the water further back in the pipe is still travelling forward, creating that hammering sound.”

Smith continues, “The most effective solution is to avoid excessive single lengths of pipework when designing a system.” He adds, “You can also fit devices like non-return valves and shock arresters that absorb the pressure difference caused by the sudden shut-off.”

However, there could be a simpler and cheaper solution to try first, suggests Smith, “Water hammer tends to happen more with quarter turn lever taps than traditional screw down taps because the shut off is more abrupt." So a change of taps might help with the issue.

Try these to help stop noisy pipes

2. High water pressure

High water pressure can be an issue, as Smith explains, "High water pressure doesn't usually cause noise issues on its own, except when taps are running. " He adds, "If your taps sound like a fireman's hose when they're open, that's a sign your water pressure may be too high and worth checking."

Jess Thomas, managing director of Drainage Central, adds, “However, high water pressure can cause whistling or humming in pipes.” He adds, “This is a result of the pipes vibrating, which can cause leaks or damage fixtures.”

A solution is to call in a professional, Thomas suggests, “Ask a plumber to install a pressure regulator as this can be adjusted to lower the water pressure.”

3. Loose fittings

Poor installation or general wear and tear can lead to loose fittings, but there is a simple solution, shares Smith, “Inspect the pipework runs, make sure all clips are secure and any nuts and bolts are properly tightened.”

He adds, “Anywhere a pipe passes through something or comes into contact with another surface, there should be a barrier material, whether that's rubber, felt, or a copper sleeve. This allows for expansion and prevents the pipe from rattling against solid surfaces."

4. Blockages

Blockages can occur in any pipework, but a kitchen waste pipe is particularly prone to food waste accumulation. This can be quickly dealt with, says Thomas, “If you think there is a blockage causing noisy pipes, you can try to use a plunger or drain snake to dislodge or manually break up the blockage.”

Smith points out another telltale sign if the issue is with your heating system: “If radiators have partial debris buildup rather than complete blockages, you can get hissing noises coming from them.” He adds, “Another telltale sign is a really foul smell when you bleed a radiator, which indicates a buildup of debris that's giving off gas."

5. Air in the pipes

If there is air in pipes, Thomas says, “You can expect to find that water sputters when the taps are turned on, the pipes make unusual noises, or there is inconsistent water pressure. He recommends the following steps to remove air from your pipework.

• Drain water Turn off the mains water supply by locating the stopcock valve, usually beneath the kitchen sink. Turn on all of the taps to drain the water, starting on the top floor of your home. Repeatedly flush the toilets until no water remains.
• Turn off and on Turn off all of the taps, and then turn on each tap again. Turn them on just enough to allow a small amount of water to escape, as this will let trapped air escape when the system is turned back on. At this point, you should not actually see any water running out of the taps.
• Flush out any air Turn the mains water supply back on, and water should begin to flow through the slightly opened taps. Beginning on the top floor of your home, turn on all taps until they are half open. Then turn all of the taps back on full to flush to release any remaining trapped air. When each tap is successfully dispensing water, they can be turned off as air should no longer be trapped in the system.

If there is air in the heating system, Smith says, “Air in the system can cause clattering and banging noises, particularly when the heating first starts up," he adds, "This is especially common with older traditional heating systems. When the boiler fires up and the pump kicks in, if air is trapped in the pump, you'll hear a distinctive, bubbly, gurgling noise, sometimes accompanied by clattering.”

These noises should clear naturally after a few weeks into the heating season as the air works its way out. However, if the noises continue, Smith says, “If you're still hearing them after that period, it's best to call a heating professional because the system might be drawing air in from somewhere. There could be a blockage on an outlet causing it to pull air in on an inlet, and that needs investigating."

6. Thermal expansion

The temperature of the water in pipes will fluctuate, and this causes specific noise, as Smith explains, “Ticking or clicking noises are another common issue we see. These are usually caused by thermal expansion.”

He adds, “Heating pipes, whether they're copper or plastic, naturally expand as they heat up. As they pass through wooden joists or plasterboard in your home, this expansion causes them to rub against the building fabric, creating that distinctive ticking sound.”

To help stop the noise, Smith says, "The solution is to use proper protection where pipes pass through structural elements.” He adds, “We use a felt-based product called hair felt anywhere pipes pass through wood or plaster.”

For other materials, he suggests something else: “Where pipes go through brickwork, they should have protective sleeves. This cushioning material allows the pipes to expand freely without making noise."

Costs to call out a plumber to fix noisy pipes

If you need to call out a plumber to inspect, Smith says, "Callout costs vary depending on your location and the complexity of the issue.” He adds, “As a general guide, you're typically looking at anywhere from £80 to £200.”

Smith continues, “The final cost depends on what needs doing, whether it's something simple like bleeding radiators and checking for loose fittings, or something more involved like fitting shock arresters, replacing worn components, or power flushing a system with debris buildup."

Thomas reveals the typical rates for a plumber: “Expect to pay an average of around £50 an hour or up to £350 a day.” He adds, “If it is an emergency call out, you can expect to usually pay around double the plumber's normal rate.”

How to bleed pipes

If you have trapped air in a heating system, it's simply a matter of bleeding the radiators, as Smith explains: "Air in a heating system always rises to find the highest point, which is why you bleed it through the radiators."

He continues, "If you've got upstairs towel rails, particularly the vertical ladder type, those are usually the most likely radiators to have air trapped in them because they're at the highest point in your system. It's worth checking these first if you're experiencing air problems."

If you want to know more about pipework, check out our copper vs plastic pipes guide. If you're thinking of changing taps or pipes, check out our guides on fitting a kitchen tap and fitting a kitchen sink.

Deciding which tape to use for a task can be a sticking point for DIYers. From precise painting to light repairs, there are lots of projects that will benefit from a well-suited tape.

“When it comes to achieving clean edges and protecting surfaces while decorating, choosing the right tape makes all the difference,” says Nick Parsons, Technical Manager at Harris, which produces masking tapes as well as paint brushes.

“Many people see masking tape and painter’s tape as the same, and while they share a similar purpose, there are small distinctions that affect the end look when painting or prepping a space,” he adds.

“Painter’s tape is formulated with a slightly different adhesive that reduces paint bleed and works well on more delicate or textured surfaces, making it ideal for precision work or longer projects, while masking tape is a decorating essential, trusted for its versatility across a wide range of tasks – from securing dust sheets and covering trims, to marking off edges for neat lines.”

Here's our guide on which to choose for either DIY or painting a room and why.

Essential tapes for your toolkit

What’s the difference between masking tape and painter’s tape?

Masking tape was invented in the 1920s by Richard Gurley Drew, a lab technician at 3M (which still makes the popular ‘Scotch tape’ range). It was designed to cleanly mask areas where paint shouldn’t touch – and a century later, many DIYers, craftspeople and artists still use masking tape for this purpose. Its formulation of cabinetmaker’s glue and crepe paper makes it a flexible and (usually) low-mess option for many household surfaces.

People soon came up with additional uses for masking tape, such as labelling items, temporarily putting up decorations and holding dustproof coverings in place.

Since the 1980s, painter’s tape has emerged as a subcategory of masking tape. These specialised tapes vary from one product to the next, but most of them have more suitable properties than ordinary masking tape for household painting. They are often water repellent and less likely to mark your surfaces.

Painter’s tape vs. masking tape: What are the benefits of each type?

1. Adhesion

Generic masking tapes usually have stronger adhesion than specialised painter’s tapes. Simply put, they’re stickier. This makes masking tape better suited for weight-bearing applications, such as light repairwork or holding a plastic dust door over a doorway.

“It offers dependable adhesion without being overly strong, meaning it holds firmly in place during painting but peels away cleanly once dry,” says Parsons.

“For the best result, use a high‑quality option like the Harris Seriously Good Masking Tape alongside the best paint brushes, which is available in two different widths, 19mm and 38mm. Both sizes adhere smoothly, tear neatly by hand, and help achieve crisp paint lines without leaving sticky residue behind.”

The downside to some masking tapes (especially lower-quality ones) is that the glue can bond with the underlying surface and leave a mess, especially if the tape is left in place for a long time.

Painter’s tape adheres far less strongly, and can therefore be left in place for longer periods (up to two weeks or even longer in some cases) without marking the surface. Of course, this makes it unsuitable for weight-bearing uses where stronger adhesion is desirable.

2. Use in painting and decorating

Painter’s tape was developed in response to some of masking tape’s shortcomings – and it has clear advantages in painting and decorating applications. It is less prone to leaving a gluey mess after removal, and often has a water-repellent outer surface to prevent wrinkling (a cause of messy lines in masking tape).

The most common use for painter’s tape in home decorating is ensuring paint is applied only to the intended surface. For instance, while painting a wall which adjoins contrast-coloured woodwork, you might apply painter’s tape to the edge of the panelling to prevent unwanted overlap.

Theo Jones, director at London architecture and interior design firm, Fynn, also advocates for using painter’s tape more creatively, especially when it comes to painting a ceiling.

“We use it to choreograph where colour starts and stops,” says Jones. “One trick is to drop the colour change to partway down the wall instead of at the ceiling line, so the ceiling reads as taller and more dramatic. A crisp, taped line can visually divide a room, frame a bed or desk, or create a band of colour that wraps around the space without feeling like a theme wall.”

Some DIYers make do with masking tape (rather than painter’s tape) for painting, but this approach carries a greater risk of mess and remedial work.

3. Cost and versatility

Painter’s tape is usually more expensive than masking tape, but in the context of a home renovation, the cost of these products is a drop in the ocean. It’s worth getting tapes of both types to ensure you have a suitable option for every task – and you’ll often find that paying a little extra for a high-quality product improves the finished results.

“Do not cheap out on the tape when painting, because you can see the difference immediately,” Jones urges. “A good quality, low-tack tape gives you sharper lines, less bleed and far less damage when you peel it off. It is a tiny percentage of the project cost, but it is the difference between “DIY weekend” and a really polished finish.”

If you’re watching the pennies and you just want to buy one roll of tape, then a generic masking tape would be the more versatile option thanks to its greater adhesive strength. However, you’d have to be extra-careful while using it in painting projects.

Tips on using painter’s tape

Using masking tape for general household applications is simple, but there’s more skill involved in using painter’s tape for delicate painting.

“Proper usage can make a huge difference in getting clean, professional-looking paint lines,” says Richard Gurdin, senior buyer for workshop at Robert Dyas.

Preparation

There are four basic steps to applying painter’s tape:

1. Before applying the tape, make sure the surface is clean and dust-free. This is important for the tape’s adhesion and the finish of the paint. “Use a damp cloth and let it dry completely before applying,” says Gurdin.
2. Apply the tape smoothly and gently along the edge or line you wish to paint up to.
3. Seal the edge of the tape by pressing it down using a flat tool (a bank card or even your finger will do the trick). “This prevents paint bleeding underneath,” Gurdin notes.
4. Leave the tape to set in place (this usually takes around 30 minutes, but brands vary).

Following this process will stand you in good stead – though you can take an additional step for a more professional finish.

“There is a decorator’s trick we love to borrow: once your base colour is dry and you’ve applied the tape, first paint along the tape edge with the base colour to seal it, let that dry, then paint your second colour,” says Jones.

“Any bleeding happens in the base coat, so when you peel the tape you get a razor-sharp line.”

Painting

As long as your tape is sealed, straight and correctly positioned, painting right up to its edge (and not beyond it) should create the desired effect. However, Gurdin notes that you should use your brush to “angle paint away from the tape edge, as this helps prevent paint being pushed under it”.

Again, you can use more elaborate methods to elevate the finished results.

“One easy trick with a simplistic but striking style is using one colour in two finishes,” says Patrick O’Donnell, brand ambassador for Farrow & Ball. “Paint the lower half of the wall (to chair rail height) in full gloss, and consider carrying this over to painting the skirting too for even more drama and accentuated height. Above this, use an ultra-matt finish such as our ‘Dead Flat’ to create a contrast.”

If your room feels excessively high-ceilinged, O’Donnell suggests splitting the wall colour.

“Using a darker colour on the lower half will ‘ground’ the space, while a complementary or tonal colour above will help soften the scale,” he advises. “This is especially effective in a hallway, where the wall can feel vertiginous on the stairs.”

Removal

O’Donnell stresses the importance of removing tape carefully.

“Peel off the tape while the paint is still slightly wet by pulling gently and slowly at an angle of 45°,” he advises.

“If the masking tape is left on too long, then trimming along the edge with a sharp blade may be required.”

Masking tape recommendations from Robert Dyas' head buyer:

FAQs

How long can masking tape be left stuck on?

This depends on the type of tape and the specific product. Almost all masking tapes and painter’s tapes will leave a mess on the surface after being left stuck on for an excessive period, but the timeframe varies greatly.

Generic masking tapes are more strongly adhesive, and most of these products should be removed within 24 hours of application to limit the risk of bonding with the underlying surface finish.

Painter’s tapes, especially high quality ones, can be left stuck onto the surface for far longer, without causing a mess. Very good examples can stay in place for up to 14 days, or even longer periods.

Can masking tape be used with water-based paints?

It’s generally not recommended to use an ordinary masking tape with water-based paints, as the water content can cause the masking tape to wrinkle, which compromises the neatness and straightness of paintwork.

Use a water-repellent painter’s tape instead, as these products are engineered to work perfectly well around moisture.

Looking to top up your toolshed with useful items that will make a difference to your DIY projects? Get clued up with our guides to wire detectors, tenon saws and the world’s first professional digital tape measure.

In this Henry HVR160 review I share my experience of using it for more than five years, to tidy up after DIY successes (and disasters) and general use around the home.

It's a canister vacuum cleaner, which means that the main unit and cleaning head are connected by a long hose. This makes it perfect for getting into difficult spaces, and useful for getting replacement parts since they are all easily accessible. With powerful suction, dust-free emptying and a robust design, is there anything it can't do?

Over the years I have tested a lot of vacuum cleaners, and I haven't held back in stretching their capabilities – especially with this one. As a mum-of-two and someone who likes stripping wallpaper, knocking through walls and sanding skirting, let me tell you how it made the cut onto our list of the best vacuum cleaners for builders' dust. You can then weigh up if it's the one for you.

Unboxing and setting up the Henry HVR160

The Henry HVR160 arrives by courier, and it takes no second guesses as to what is inside the box. Clearly branded and labelled, the cardboard box is purpose made for shipping this Henry. The only plastic used was a bag that contained a Tapered Adapter, Crevice Tool, Dusting Tool and Brush and Mattress Tool, which will come in handy when cleaning the home – rather than clearing up after a DIY success or disaster.

There's a set of owner instructions that explains how everything fits together, but if you've seen a Henry before then familiarity trumps.

A bag is already in place to collect the dust from your DIY project or house renovation, so the only set-up required is to connect the three-piece tube set, attach it to the hose and then screw said hose onto the main unit. With no battery to charge and no fancy smart features, the Henry HVR160 is ready to use within minutes.

First impressions

When the Henry HVR160 is put together it looks like a useful piece of kit, with all the tools secured onto the on-board storage and the otherwise gangly floorhead secured by a clip at the back of the canister.

It's on a set of wheels so I can either push it by foot or pull it by a hand on the hose to move it around. There is also a retractable handle on the top that I used to carry it into different rooms or up the stairs, or hauled up a ladder to the attic.

I like that there is some discreet cable management underneath the handle, so that the 10m power cable can be wound away when I've finished a job. The generous 6L bag is also neatly contained in the canister so all the dust and debris will be out of sight and out of mind, that is until it's full and needs replacing.

Henry HVR160 specifications

• Power: 620w
• Capacity: 6L
• Cable length: 10m
• Hose length: 2.2m
• Cleaning range: 25.7m
• Weight: 7.5kg
• Dimensions: 320 x 340 x 345mm
• Additional tools: Crevice Tool, Dusting Tool, Brush & Mattress Tool

Using the Henry HVR160 for DIY

The Henry HVR160 has helped us out in two home renovations and continues to be a reliable companion through all our DIY successes, and failures. What we love about it is that no mess is too big or too small – it will literally suck up everything (provided it is not a liquid). Dust, stones, chipped bricks, plasterboard, insulation and wood shavings are just some examples of how much it has tidied up for us.

It's currently sat in our attic. We (my husband) are in the throes of insulating the loft and boarding out the space, to prevent heat loss from the bedrooms below and maximise the area for loft storage. A lot of dust comes with chipboard and rock wool insulation, as well as flyaways as the main bulk of the insulation is laid.

We've removed the floorhead and three-piece stainless tube set so we're more agile in the somewhat cramped space. This means that we're only using the hose with tapered adapter to suck up the mess, and the Henry takes it in its stride. The hose doesn't get blocked and the canister bag is filling up nicely.

The wheels on the canister make it easy to pull into a tight spot. I just need to remind my husband to unplug and rewind the 6m power cable so that the attic isn't anymore treacherous than it already is.

Switching to home use

As well as tidying after a DIY project, the Henry HVR160 can also be used to clean the carpet, floors, skirting, crevices and upholstery around the home.

The Combi Floor Tool attaches to the three-piece stainless steel tube set. On the top of this tool is a paddle which can be pressed down for hard floors, and up for carpets. I found that it did a great job of cleaning both floor types, but the fluff from our new wool carpets did quickly build on the underside of the tool so I need to stop and start a few times to keep clearing it. This floor tool transitioned well between rooms too.

For cleaning skirting boards you can either use the Crevice Tool or Brush, but I found it easier to remove the tube set from the hose and just run the Tapered Adapter along the top. I personally found these tools more useful when cleaning the car.

Through a house move and general lack of organisation, I have unfortunately misplaced the tools but it's good to see that a replacement kit comprising the tools, hose and stainless-steel tube set can be bought from Amazon for £44.99.

If you think that you'll be scaling back on the DIY ambitions and using the Henry HVR160 more around the home, it would be worth considering the noise levels. I recorded 82dB during testing which is equivalent to heavy traffic or loud singing.

Cleaning, maintenance and storage

The Henry HVR160 is one of the easiest vacuum cleaners I have had to maintain in all my years of owning a vacuum cleaner. You'll just need to check the nozzle and floorhead for blockages, and replace the canister bags when full. A pack of 10 Henry replacement bags are £12 [Amazon] so while you do have an ongoing cost, what I will say is that this Henry will stuff the bag full before it needs swapping out.

To store, the cable can be wound in and the tools can be stowed on the on-board storage. The floorhead with three-piece stainless-steel tube can also be clipped onto the back of the canister in an upright position, but I found that this clip is a weak spot and the height of the floorhead clipped on could make it difficult to fit into a space out of the way.

How does it rate online?

Looking at TrustPilot reviews, the Henry HVR160 (and his friends) has 1767 reviews and has been awarded 4.8 out of 5 stars. Reviewers speak highly about how easy it is to fit together, the powerful suction and the useful attachments. It's not easy to find any negative comments but I have managed to find one who says that they find it a bit cumbersome to move around and the suction adjuster on the handle is difficult to turn on.

Over on Argos, 98% of customers recommend the HVR160. It's received high praise for its powerful suction, ease of use and excellent value for money. Users appreciate its performance on both carpets and hard floors, along with its long cord and generous dust bag capacity. However, some users report that they struggle to move the floorhead around and that the hose gets blocked.

And on Currys, 4 out of 5 stars has been awarded out of 10,747 reviews. The performance, ease of use and value for money is all spoken highly off. Yet some users struggle with pet hair removal (there's a separate tool for this) and that it keeps falling apart.

How does it compare?

While the Henry HVR160 is fantastic for dry messes, you may need to call in Charles CVC370 for the big stuff. This is a wet/dry vacuum cleaner which is ready to clean up plumbing disasters or clean out the garage. It has a larger 1000W motor and a larger 9L capacity for dry stuff, and 15L capacity for wet stuff.

Another option is the Karcher WD4 Wet & Dry vacuum cleaner (available on Amazon) which has a 2.2m long hose as standard. This is longer than Charles' 1.8m hose. The extra length would be beneficial when clearing blockages, although an extra long 6m long hose can be bought for Charles for £16.99 on Amazon if you already own one.

The 10m power cable on the HVR160 may be too restricting for other fellow DIYers too. The Makita DVC750LZ (available on Amazon) is a lightweight, portable cordless vacuum cleaner. Like Charles, it can also clean wet and dry messes but on a smaller scale because it has half the capacity.

In terms of price, the Henry HVR160 offers excellent value for money. It's priced at £119 which is cheaper than Charles CVC370 (RRP £169), Karcher WD4 (RRP £139.98) and Makita DVC750 (RRP £159.99). Whist it's not a wet and dry vacuum cleaner, it can be used anywhere in the home which may be the better option for you if you tend to dip in and out of projects.

Should you buy the Henry HVR160?

The Henry HVR160 is a brilliant buy if you need a vacuum cleaner that is robust, reliable and low maintenance. It has ample suction to clear away dust, wood shavings, small pieces of rubble, plasterboard scraps and insulation flyaways. Yes, the bags are an ongoing cost but you'll rarely need to replace them and, honestly, it's well worth containing the dry DIY messes in this way so you don't make the mess again when emptying.

It is noisy compared to other household vacuum cleaners, but the performance outweighs this in my mind. I did also find that when storing the floorhead and hose in an upright position it felt flimsy, although after years of use it will find its own safe space in whatever configuration – as it has done at our house.

Looking to clear up the mess from other DIY and renovation projects? Our favourite window vacs will clear dust and dirt from windows and doors in no time, while the best pressure washers are perfect for messy outdoor jobs.

Why do I need a multi-use power tool? This is exactly what I was thinking when the Black & Decker MultiEvo Multi Tool arrived. Surely it can’t be as good as my single-use power tools. But at the same time, I was prepared to give it a go without any preconceptions.

As an experienced DIYer, I’ve used a lot of Black + Decker tools (I still have my drill from over 10 years ago), and they haven’t disappointed, so I thought it could be a real winner. Offering plenty of versatility at a price point that occasional DIYers will like.

But there’s always one point of contention with cordless tools: battery life. How will the MultiEvo Multi Tool perform compared to other best multi tools in our tests? Read on to find out.

Specs and features

• Battery voltage: 18v
• Battery type: Lithium Ion
• Weight: 4kg
• Guarantee: One year
• Speed: Variable - up to 7500rpm
• Features: Magnetic bit holder, LED work light, Torque adjustment collar
• In the box: 1 x hammer drill head, 1 x Jigsaw head, 1 x sanding head, 1 x 1.5Ah battery, 1 x charger, 1 x 16" toolbox, 5 x drill bits, 5 x Jigsaw blades, 5 x sander sheets.

BUY THE BLACK & DECKER MULTIEVO MULTI TOOL FROM ARGOS TODAY

Unboxing and first impressions

The Black & Decker MultiEvo Multi Tool is neatly packed in its own sturdy 16-inch toolbox. All I needed to do was remove the cardboard wrapper, and I was ready to go. Unlike some carry cases that come with kits or sets, this wasn’t a cheap add-on. It was well-made and seemed built to last, I reckon, as long as the tool itself.

The toolbox provided the perfect carry case for the multi tool body, attachments, and battery charger, with just enough room for an extra attachment if needed. It also features a couple of neat storage compartments integrated into the lid, perfect for storing the included drill bits and jigsaw blades.

The body of the tool felt sturdy, and I liked the rubber handle, which offered a good grip. I also noticed a magnetic drill bit holder positioned on top of the body. The double-ended bit was definitely staying put until needed – a simple but neat touch that shows thought has been put into the design of the MultiEvo.

Setting up drill, sander and saw attachments

A multi-tool requires more effort to prepare your preferred attachment, but luckily, the process is straightforward and intuitive. Each attachment slides and clicks into place neatly, and changing them is as simple as pulling back the quick-release button and extracting the attachment.

The drill attachment offers various options, including torque and hammer settings, which are easy to understand. The sander attachment only needs a pad attached, while the jigsaw involves a bit more work, but remains simple to change blades. One safety feature I particularly liked is that the trigger locks when an attachment is removed, so there's no need to remove the battery to swap heads. If you're unsure how to use any of the attachments, each one comes with a manual included in the set.

How well did the Black & Decker MultiEvo work?

Unlike a single-use power tool, there’s more to consider with a multi-tool. First, the body and attachments need to be put together. This was easy for all, and the first attachment we tested was the detail sander. Included are five good-quality pads in various grits – P60, P80, and P120 – that cover most sanding DIY tasks. The pad's position relative to the body made it really easy to use.

I tested by sanding stairs, walls, door frames and plywood shelving, which I am putting together. The pad ensured I got into all corners and did a decent job. There is an easy-to-use exhaust attachment to help redirect dust. No bag, though.

Next up was the drill attachment. Again, easy to attach, set up and use. We tried the typical tests with the provided drill bits. The wood bits were better than the masonry bits, a small point, and you can buy drill bits like this BLACK+DECKER 50 Pc. Mixed Drill and Screwdriver Bit Set from Amazon, if you need. There were various torque settings and a hammer setting that gave a little extra oomph when drilling into walls.

We made good use of the Phillips and flat-head double-end drill bit. There’s only one included, so you will need to invest in new screwdriver bits quite quickly, but you can buy reasonably priced sets like this DEWALT Screwdriver Bit Set from Amazon to keep you going.

Last up was the jigsaw attachment. This came with five 10 TPI wood blades (also usable on plastic), making it a good all-round choice. Inserting the blades was quick and easy. A small handle at the back of the attachment needs to be pushed down for a quick fit. I suggest inserting the blade before adding the attachment, it's just easier and safer in my opinion.

To test the saw, we kicked off by cutting 18mm plywood. The MultiEvo provided enough power to slowly cut through the plywood. It was pretty straightforward to use; the blade worked as well as any other jigsaw blade I've used. Next, we tried it on 6mm hardboard, which, as you might expect, was easier to cut through than the plywood. Finally, it was a plastic plumbing pipe which it breezed through.

Battery life

Battery life is critical on cordless tools, and with the Black & Decker MultiEvo Multi Tool we were left wanting more. Included is a small, lightweight 1A Charger and a 1.5Ah battery. These are the minimum requirements for a cordless tool. There’s no doubt that a larger battery and faster charger would have pushed the MultiEvo towards five stars.

Straight out of the box, the battery took three to four hours to reach full capacity, which lasted 30-45 mins (depending on the job). This makes it ideal for small DIY projects, but if you’ve got a sanding project, the battery time wouldn’t be enough to complete it, which can be annoying.

My recommendation for any cordless tool is to get a backup battery and keep it fully charged so you can continue working when you want. And, this is definitely the case for the Black & Decker MultiEvo Multi Tool.

THE FINAL VERDICT

If you don’t own a cordless drill, electric sander or jigsaw – or are in the market for a replacement – this multitool is a budget-friendly, multi-talented tool that is a top choice, especially for novice and occasional DIYers.

Not only do you get the three attachments (typically the most commonly used in my opinion), but you get the extras you need (drill bits/sanding pads/jigsaw blades) to use the multi-tool straight out of the toolbox

And you are not restricted to the three attachments; Black + Decker has a whole range of attachments (like this BLACK+DECKER Multievo Multi-tool Impact Driver Attachment from Amazon) and this Black and Decker MULTiEVO Multi Tool Oscillating Attachment from Tooled-Up, that can make the tool even more valuable. There are even attachments outside the DIY sphere.

It's this versatility and the toolbox that make the MultiEvo the complete package. But there is a downside, admittedly one that can be easily remedied. The battery life is limited, and the charging times are long. But invest in an additional, larger Ah battery (like this BLACK+DECKER 18V 4.0Ah Lithium Ion Battery from Amazon), or even a couple, and charge overnight, and you will get much improved battery life and a lot less time waiting between charges.