Investing in a mitre saw is a smart move if you're a serious DIYer. It takes the hard work out of crosscuts and delivers accurate cuts for consistency across projects. They're ideal for getting clean cuts on decking boards, fencing, and studwork.

But there is so much more to a mitre saw. It's the perfect companion for creating precise, reliable bevels and mitres too. It's also ideal for ensuring architrave, trim, and skirting boards always fit as expected.

Here I run the Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw through a host of tests to see if it's ready to tackle your DIY projects precisely and accurately.

Specifications and features

• Motor: 1500W
• Max mitre: 50 degrees / -50 degrees
• Max bevel: 45 degrees
• Weight: 11.2kg
• Cord length: 3m
• Blade diameter: 210mm
• Max cut depth: 65mm / 45-degree - 38mm
• No load speed: 3750 min
• Warranty: 3-year limited
• Features: Multi-material blade included, laser guidance, trench cut facility, 230mm slide and integrated carry handles

Shop the Evolution Mitre Saw today

UNBOXING & FIRST IMPRESSIONS

The first thing I noticed was the box size. It was impressively compact for a product I was hoping would be one of the best mitre saws with a slide. This made it easy to carry (even at nearly 14kg), and as the box itself was adorned with plenty of product photos and info, I felt like I already knew the Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw before the box was even opened.

Opening the box revealed a host of cardboard components securely holding the all of the various parts in place. One thing I immediately noticed the blade wasn't attached; this came separately. The box included Evolution's Multipurpose TCT (Tungsten Carbide Tipped) blade, available from Screwfix, which is designed to cut wood, mild steel, aluminium, and plastic, and has 24 teeth.

As an extra addition to review, Evolution provided me with a general wood blade for comparison, but this doesn't come in the box. However, the Evolution Power Tools HTC210WRAGE Wood Carbide-Tipped Blade from Amazon is a good option.

Removing all the components revealed the various parts, including the blade, a dust bag, dust bag adapter, slide rail cover, machine table extensions, a three-piece hold-down clamp, a front clamp, and a double-ended hex key.

The build felt solid and sturdy, with a mix of mainly metal and plastic components, which wasn't surprising given the Evolution's very reasonable price point. However, most of the plastic parts felt well-made and up to the task they were designed for.

While the box and packaging were recyclable, they weren't really reusable. Once I had removed all the components and put them together, I couldn't fit the saw back in the box. It's a small point, but I would have liked to store the saw in the box. Instead, it ended up in my recycling bin.

SETTING UP

You might think that setting up a mitre saw is quick, and simply a case of taking it out the box, plugging it in and you're ready to go. It's rarely that simple though, as you usually need to add a few extras, such as a dust bag and extensions for holding longer lengths of wood. However, with the Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, you do need to follow a few more steps to get this particular type of saw up and running.

The saw comes in parts, so it requires some minor assembly. For instance, you need to install the sliding carriage and blade, and add machine table extensions. There's also the option to add a slide rail protector and, of course, the dust bag.

Admittedly, this didn't take long, but the instructions could have been clearer, and I struggled to get the flange bolt (which helps hold the blade in place) moving. A supplied double-ended hex key helps remove it, but I needed a squirt of WD-40 (available from Amazon) and extra leverage to get it out. The next time was thankfully easier.

In the manual, it says that by "assembling the machine, the owner/operator will gain valuable insight into its many advanced features." I can see this from both sides. It's ideal for DIYers who haven't yet had the joy of owning a mitre saw – and admittedly, its price point directs it towards this market. However, I would have been much happier if I could have taken it straight out of the box, made a few minor adjustments and started using it straight away.

There are a few quick, easy tweaks to make to make sure everything is accurate, but the tools aren't included. But I only needed an Allen key (try this Hi-Spec Small Metric Hex Allen Key Wrench Set from Amazon) and a spanner. And what DIYer doesn't have these? Not many.

Once I set up the saw (and checked it as the manual suggested), I liked a lot about it. And the more I thought about the quality on offer for the price, the more I liked it.

Simple features like the placement of handles for carrying, the large bevel lock handle, the quality lower blade guard, the slide rail protector, the blade guard locking trigger, cable guides and the easy-to-use arbor lock button, to name a few, were all elements that won me over.

How well did it work?

With everything secure and a few minor tweaks made, the Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw was ready to get down to business. As mentioned, the blade it's supplied with is standard for most mitre saws. It is a jack-of-all-trades blade and a smart choice for most DIYers. To test it, I made a host of cuts on plastic pipe of various thicknesses, along with cuts to thin, soft metal strips. It handled all of them with relative ease and left very little burr.

Next on the list was a host of woods, which is what I typically use a power saw for. To start, I tried simple crosscuts with plywood, MDF, softwood, and hardwood. Everything went smoothly, although at one point a short piece of timber went astray; but that was my fault for not securing it properly. To ensure this didn't happen again, I made good use of the hold and front clamps.

The hold-down clamp was easy to set up and worked a treat. The front clamp involved more work and didn't hold thinner wood as well as I'd hoped. It still did the job, but I think a rectangular head would have worked better. The cut was pretty clean, although it left a little breakout on one edge, but nothing drastic.

The Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw has a max cutting width of 230mm and 65mm depth, which is enough for shelving, fencing, and floorboards or similar. I measured up to see how true the claim was, and it matched pretty much as expected. When cutting, the slide rail protector was a smart addition, helping to keep wood dust from clogging up the rails.

Next up were mitres and bevels. I tested this with all the woods I mentioned previously. The bevel lock handle was big, making it easy to adjust and secure your chosen angle (from 0-45 degrees). I tested at 15, 30, and 45 degrees; all cuts were easy and accurate.

Setting up the mitre was simple with stops at 0, 15, 22.5, 30, and 45 degrees. However, you can stop anywhere between 50 and -50 degrees. Everything was accurate and much the same as crosscuts. I can't continue without mentioning the laser guide either which is ideal and accurate for wood placement.

To finish testing, I replaced the Evolution multipurpose blade with an Evolution general wood blade with a saw TPI of 30. I performed the same tests as with the multi-purpose blade, obviously on wood only. The cuts were again clean and smooth, with less breakout. As I expected, this blade was a better choice for wood than the multi-purpose blade.

As with all types of power tools, remember to protect your hearing. The Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw isn’t particularly loud, but at over 100 decibels, I suggest investing in ear defenders like these Dr.meter Ear Defenders from Amazon.

Should you buy the Evolution R210SMS+ mitre saw?

The Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw should be on your to-buy list if you're a serious DIYer looking to replace your current saw, or invest in your first mitre saw. It sits at a price point that belies the quality, features, and finish you get for the money.

Many elements like the carry handle placement, cable management, slide rail protector and arbour lock button, are simple examples of the thought that went into the design of the saw and this further demonstrated with its performance.

Admittedly, you have to assemble the saw yourself and add the supplied general-purpose blade. So, if you have never owned a mitre saw, it does help to get to know it before you start using it. If you do a lot of wood cutting, I suggest investing in a specialist wood blade for more finesse.

The Evolution R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw isn't perfect, but it offers a lot at a price point that is hard to resist. In my opinion, you can't go far wrong with it and I'm sure you wouldn't be disappointed if you went ahead and purchased it today.

When you need smart, crisp, clean edges when sanding wood, or want to turn rough timber into smooth, flat surfaces, you'll need to call upon the talents of an electric planer. It's the perfect power tool for removing small amounts of wood to get a precise finish or fit.

While you can do the job by hand, power tools generally make the job easier and an electric planer is no exception. Here I take a look at the Titan TTB876PLN electric planer, an own-brand, budget-friendly power tool from Screwfix.

Will it match more expensive tools, or will its budget status be its undoing? I take it for a test drive to find out.

SPECIFICATIONS AND FEATURES

• Motor: 900W
• Cord length: 2.5 metres
• Weight: 3.6kg
• Cutting depth: 0-3mm
• Cutting width: 82mm
• Rebate cutting depth: 0-12mm
• Dust port size: 35mm
• No load speed: 16000 min
• Guarantee: 2 years
• Features: Guide fence (aka rip fence), rebate depth gauge, right and left dust ejection, dust bag, park rest to protect the blade, trigger lock button

Get the Titan Electric Planer today

UNBOXING & FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Like most budget-friendly power tools, the Titan TTB970NST 3mm electric planer wasn't big on packaging. A single bold colour, a photo of the product and snippets of essential information. Opening the box, the theme continued: the planer fits neatly inside, helping keep it steady. It also came with a plain white box and a zip-up dust bag. Inside the box are the parts for a guide/rip fence, a rebate depth guide, and a couple of basic tools: a hex key and a small wrench which were a welcome addition.

Gazing at the various parts, I wasn't quite sure what was what, but as an experienced DIYer, I thought I'd have a go at assembling it. It took a while to work out, so even if you are a regular to DIY, take note that a quick glimpse at the instruction manual means you will get it set up a lot sooner.

The guide/rip fence comprises two parts, held together with a wing nut and mounting bolt. This in turn is held in place by a wing screw. The guide/rip fence is easy to adjust, but you need to screw in the wing screw by hand. This is easy and works well. The same principle applies to the rebate depth gauge. This wasn't as easy to install, but still straightforward.

Hard to miss was the dust extraction crossover lever on the front of the planer. This was basic but functional. I wasn't sure how well it would work, but I was interested to find out.

The planer's general build felt basic, but still sturdy, weighty, and solid – pretty much what I'd expect of a budget-friendly planer. The cutting depth adjustment knob wasn't as smooth as I hoped, and the measurement marks didn't stand out that much, although they were easy enough to see.

Unfortunately it didn't include a carry-case or bag to transport and protect the Titan planer, but it did have a basic park rest (most do). This is like a mini stand that stops the planer from lying flat on a surface. This prevents the blade from damage, and the surface it's place on. My first-ever electric planer didn't have one, which proved to be its undoing and I ended up having to purchase a new one.

SETTING UP

Electric planers are pretty much set to go straight out of the box, but there are a few things to note before you head into a project, especially with budget power tools. A plane consists of two plates: front and back. The blade needs to be level with the back plate, so check before you start. A simple way to do this is to adjust the cutting depth knob to 1 or 2mm. This will raise the front plate.

Next, get a straight edge, place it on the back plate and rotate the blade to make sure it lines up with the back plate. The Titan was perfectly lined up, so no adjustments were needed. However, if you do, it's straightforward (just follow the manual) and the necessary tools are included.

After checking the blade, I attached the supplied dust bag. You can attach it left or right, depending on what you are working on. Don't forget to adjust the dust extraction crossover lever so it directs debris straight into the bag. It's incredibly simple to use: push left or right. It's basic but effective. Also, make sure the bag is zipped up or you'll find yourself needing to use one of the best vacuums for builder's dust to clear up the mess.

You can use the planer freehand; the front plate has a V-groove for 45-degree bevels. However, for accuracy, use the supplied parallel guide. You just need to assemble and attach it. This gives you enough flexibility to make straight cuts across the full 82mm cutting width. I wasn't quite sure which side to put it on, as both sides had very similar moulded guides and a thread to attach.

On closer inspection, it became obvious where it was meant to go. The opposite side was for the rebate depth gauge. The only problem I had was that it wasn't easy to get the depth accurate. More obvious marks would have been a welcome addition. With everything attached and set up, it was time for the fun part: testing.

PERFORMANCE

The corded Titan comes with a 2.5m cord, which is perfectly adequate, but you'll likely need an extension cord like this IONOS 2 Socket Cable Reel from Amazon to work wherever you want. While cordless drills and other power tools have their advantages, the benefit of no battery is that I wouldn't need to worry about how long the planer would run for. I could keep going as long as I needed to.

The first test was to smarten up the edges of the wooden top of my old dining table. To start, I set the cutting depth adjustment knob to 0.5mm as I prefer to take a slower and steady approach. Trying to remove too much wood in one go isn't good for the planer motor, and can give you a rough finish.

Setting up the parallel guide was quick and simple, and it was straight into action. Using the lock button, the blade breezed through the softwood edge and gave me a neat finish. I did a couple of runs to get the finish I wanted. I upped the depth to 1mm and got the same finish. To finish the job, I used the 45-degree chamfer groove integrated into the front plates. This is a simple guide, but it worked effectively.

The next test was creating a rebate in 18mm plywood. Setting the depth accurately could have been easier. The rebate gauge has measurements for millimetres and inches. I don't use inches but the millimetre marks are set at 2mm intervals, although 1mm would have been nice. They line up with a notch on the planer which means there's a little bit of guesswork here, but nothing that will make a big difference for most DIY projects.

I went for a 4mm rebate, and the planer struggled a little when I went across the grain, so I had to give it a few runs, but the Titan still did a good job. As you might expect, going with the grain was easier.

The final test was planing rough 70mm timber fence posts to get a smoother finish. I started with 1.5mm, and the Titan went through with ease. Then I tried 2mm and 3mm to get a better idea of the planer. No problem at either depth; admittedly, timber fence posts aren't the toughest test, but it did a good job.

Final verdict

For the price tag, you can't go far wrong with the Titan TTB970NST 3mm electric planer. It obviously lacks the quality and features - such as a brushless motor - of a more expensive model. However, if you're an everyday DIYer who only needs an electric planer for the odd DIY job, it fits the bill nicely.

The inclusion of a parallel guide, rebate depth gauge and dust bag means you're ready to go straight out of the box. Plus, it includes a couple of tools to make any adjustments or change the blade.

The park rest was a basic but much-appreciated addition, helping protect the blade when you put the Titan down. If you don’t want to spend big on an electric planer, I'd certainly recommend adding this to your to-buy list.

A circular saw is an essential addition to any DIYer's tool collection. It's the perfect companion for crosscuts and getting neat, straight edges on wooden boards. It makes labour-intensive sawing quick, easy and accurate.

A cordless version like this Einhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL will sit neatly alongside a jigsaw and the other types of power saws in your collection. Having a variety of options means you have something to tackle whatever DIY or home renovation project you're working on now, or in the future.

Read on to find out how good this model is, if I'd recommend it, and more importantly, if it sounds like one you need to add to your tool kit.

SPECS AND FEATURES

• Motor: Brushless
• Bore size: 20mm
• Blade size: 190mm
• Weight: 3.4kg
• Cutting depth (90 degrees): 65mm
• Cutting depth (45 degrees): 45mm
• Blade thickness: 1.6mm
• Warranty: 10 years
• Features: 1 x parallel stop, LED light, tool for removing blade, locking button

UNBOXING & FIRST IMPRESSIONS

I've worked with various circular saw brands, and used other Einhell power tools, so I was intrigued to see what the EEinhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL had to offer.

The recyclable cardboard packaging gives a quick window into what lies ahead, including a clear image of the tool, blade size, cutting depth and brushless motor. But the battery sticker is more prominent; it tells you the saw uses an Einhell PXC battery, and that the battery and charger aren't included. While I wish it had them, at least it's clear from the start that you can't unbox it and use it straight away.

Inside the box, the saw sits neatly in a cardboard insert that holds it in place, with a cutout for the already-attached blade, so that it sits securely. After removing the Einhell circular saw, I was curious if anything else was in the box.

Under the insert, I found the shiny and sturdy metal parallel stop (also known as a rip fence). This had incremental measurements up to 20 cm and seven inches. It fits easily, though I would have liked to see millimetre marks between the whole and half markings.

Now to the best bit: the saw itself. Picking up the unit, it felt well-built and well-balanced, with and without a battery. It wasn't the lightest, but the soft-grip handle felt secure in the hand. The aluminium soleplate looked solid, and the plastic blade guard felt sturdy and up to the job.

Finally, I tried the locking lever for cutting depth, the locking screw for the parallel stop and the locking lever for the mitre setting. These were all plastic, and while sturdy enough, I can't help but wonder how long they will last.

SETTING UP

As a cordless tool, the Einhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL is easy to set up, and like the other best circular saws, there are a number of uses for a circular saw.

To start, I left it at the default settings: max cutting depth and 0 degrees on the soleplate for 90-degree cuts to ensure I got straight cuts. All I needed to do was slip in the battery.

When I did make a few adjustments, I removed the battery. A lock button ensures the ON/OFF trigger cannot be used, as an extra precaution. But after my previous experiences with circular saws, I always remove the battery.

The Einhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL has a TCT 190mm blade (the largest you typically find on consumer circular saws) with a 20mm bore hole and 24 teeth, which is pretty standard for most circular saws aimed at DIYers. If you want a more subtle cutting blade. It's easy to change the blade.

A neat feature is the saw blade wrench that's integrated into the saw body. I didn't spot this immediately, but thankfully I did before I started testing the blade-change feature.

To keep the wrench company, a spindle lock sits on the front of the body. You need to engage this before changing the blade. This wasn't the easiest feature to use. It took a few tries to get comfortable, and it needs some muscle to hold the button in place.

Once I did, removing the spindle was simple enough. To finish, move the blade guard out of the way and take out the blade. I did this purely to test the feature. I replaced the blade, ready to start testing.

How well did the Einhell perform?

As I've already mentioned, the Einhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL doesn't come with a battery or charger. For testing, I used an Einhell PXC 4.0Ah Sealed battery and an Einhell 2.0Ah Power X-change battery (available from Toolstation) as I already owned these.

The saw comes with a TCT 190mm blade with 24 teeth already installed. So the quality of the cuts in this test are based on this blade. For smoother cuts, consider a blade with more teeth like this Saxton TCT19080T20B TCT Circular Wood Saw Blade from Amazon.

The first test involved some simple crosscuts and straight long cuts with the parallel stop on 18mm plywood. For the crosscuts, I went freehand, which was no problem. The cuts were straight and cleaner than I expected, and were almost good enough for more jobs that need more finesse.

Next, I did the same again, but this time on some 9mm MDF and 27mm hardwood. The results were similar – clean edges and cuts, though not so much on the MDF. The parallel stop was sturdy and easy to use, with a max of three slots to help steady the stop. A minor niggle was that tightening the locking screw shifted the stop slightly.

Next up, it was time to test the cutting depth. By default, the saw is set to the max cutting depth of 65mm. This gives the opportunity to try anything in between. The measurement marker has 5mm increments, which is ideal for most DIY projects. However, if you needed something in between, such as 18mm, it required a bit of guesswork. I tried 10 and 15 mm, and both were pretty accurate. A sturdy plastic lever made it simple to choose a depth.

Next, I tested the mitre settings. Located near the front, it has 5 degree notches and a maximum angle of 50 degrees. The plastic lever to release the mitre feature was sturdy enough, but it was loose-fitting on the metal spindle underneath.

What I did like about the lever was that I could lift and move it on the spindle so it was always in a position to ensure a tight fit. I tested 15, 30 and 45 degree cuts, all giving clean, accurate results. I continued using the Einhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL until the battery ran out, which was over 100 cuts, and each cut was very similar to the first.

One final point to make is the noise level. The saw isn't particularly loud, but you should still wear ear protection, especially if you use it for extended periods. This Site SEP313 Ear defender with Adjustable headband from B&Q is worth considering.

BATTERY LIFE

Although the Einhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL isn't supplied with a battery or charger, as I already owned an Einhell PXC 4.0Ah Sealed battery (available on Amazon) and an Einhell 3A Power X Charger (available from B&Q), I was able to use these to get the saw up and running. Alternatively, you can purchase both together when you buy this Einhell 18V 4.0Ah Plus Lithium-Ion Battery and Charger Set from Amazon.

The official runtime for a 4.0Ah battery (according to their website) is around 68 minutes. Obviously this depends on usage; thinner boards use less power than denser, thicker boards. So while battery life isn't an exact science, this one definitely made it past the 60-minute mark, so pretty close to the manufacturer's suggestion.

For comparison, I used my 2.0Ah Power X-change batteries that came with my Einhell cordless drill. These lasted around 15-20 minutes. So, as expected, more power equals more minutes.

As I mentioned before, I have an Einhell Power X-Charger 3A; this took around 70 minutes to charge the battery. The charger is straightforward to use. Red and green LEDs indicate whether the battery is charging or fully charged. The battery has a trio of lights to show the current battery level.

If you want more power for faster charge times, you can try the Power X-Fastcharger 4A, available from the Einhell site for £30.

FINAL VERDICT

A decent circular saw is definitely a smart addition to any DIYer's tool collection, and that is exactly what you get with the Einhell Professional Cordless Circular Saw TP-CS 18/190 Li BL. Admittedly, it doesn't come with a battery or charger, which will add to the price, and it's not the cheapest on the market. However, you are getting a quality circular saw that is well-built, sturdy, and packed with features that work well.

It operates smoothly, feels secure in the hand, has a handy lock button, and is relatively quiet (compared to some circular saws I've used). Cuts were neat and accurate, and I found no problem sawing through softwood or hardwood. I have to say, there's little I didn't like about the Einhell, and I'd definitely add it to your to-buy list.

If you do decide to add this one to your collection, find out more of my tips in getting the best out of it, in how to use a circular saw.

Fitting cane webbing to cupboard doors is one of those quick DIY projects that can transform the finished look of a space.

As well as boosting the aesthetics of a room, its perforated design means it can also offer a practical solution if the contents of your cupboard require a small, but steady flow of air.

To find out how to fit it in your home, I'm sharing a step-by-step guide from my own project, along with advice from a joiner and interior designer to help ensure your DIY goes goes to plan.

Types, tools and cupboard doors

Cane webbing is a mesh material that’s popularly used in cabinetry and chair-making. It is sold by the sheet and delivered as a roll.

Traditionally produced from natural rattan, cane webbing was introduced to Europe from South-East Asia in the 17th century, leading to its adoption by Western furniture-makers and cabinet-makers. It is still produced and made in Vietnam, Indonesia, and other countries with the right specialist craftspeople and a tropical climate.

However, before starting your project, it's important to understand what type of cane webbing you will use, and which type of cupboard doors are most suitable to use it on.

A natural rattan webbing, such as this Cane Webbing sold by DecorbyTony on Etsy, will typically give the best look and feel. However, these products are often expensive, so if your budget is tight, you might prefer to choose a synthetic cane webbing like this ALLINKIT 16 inch X 6.6ft Cane Webbing from Amazon instead.

Door front styles that work best

Cane webbing can be installed in cupboard or kitchen cabinet doors of various designs, including (but not limited to):

• Doors with a rectangular cut-out – the webbing fills the cut-out, as shown in my cupboard doors below. This is the type of installation we’ve focused on in this guide.
• Doors with a shaker-style recessed panel – the webbing could be installed over the solid panel.

Tools for installing cane webbing

The good news is, installing cane webbing in cupboard doors requires only a minimal selection of tools and materials.

How to fit cane webbing to a cupboard door

1. Cut the cane webbing to size

The most important consideration is to get the right type and amount of cane webbing. Carefully measure the spaces in your cupboard door(s). You should buy enough to fill the spaces, with around 5cm excess material in each dimension so that you’ll be able to secure the webbing in place.

Once it arrives, you will need to cut your cane webbing down to size, as it is usually supplied in sheets with standard dimensions.

“Natural square cane webbing is supplied in rolls, and it should be cut oversized ready for fitting,” confirms Oliver Bryan, director of Foxstow Kitchens & Cabinetry.

Allowing some excess on each side, cut a piece of webbing to fit each space that needs covering in your cupboard doors. Make sure that the rectangles you cut are aligned correctly with the pattern of the webbing.

Use a good pair of scissors or shears, and double-check your measurements before you start cutting.

2. Soak the cane webbing

Cane webbing also needs to be soaked before installation. This makes it more flexible and less likely to break, and it will cause the material to shrink tight after installation.

“Before installation, we soak the webbing in lukewarm water for approximately 20 to 25 minutes,” says Oliver Bryan. “We typically roll it up and submerge it in a bucket or sink until it becomes pliable, and easier to work with.”

3. Attach the webbing

If possible, remove your cupboard door and lay it out across a couple of joiner’s benches (or on another worksurface). It should have the rear side facing up. Make sure that the cupboard doors are also painted and finished to your liking, before you start.

Lay the webbing out over the space it will cover. “Align it to ensure the weave pattern runs straight,” says Oliver Bryan, “and make sure the cane is secured while it is still damp, so that it can dry out and tighten afterwards.”

Once you’re happy with the placement of the webbing, use a staple gun to fix it to the door, installing plenty of staples on each side – about one staple every few inches. I found that the finish was neatest when I stapled one of the shorter sides first, then both longer sides, and finally the remaining shorter side.

4. Finishing touches

For a really secure installation and a neat finish, you might choose to glue thin strips of wood beading, such as this Wickes Pine Parting Bead Moulding to the back of the door and around the edge of each opening, providing an extra place to secure the webbing with staples. This isn’t essential, and I didn’t need to do it as my cupboard doors were custom-made with a recessed lip where the webbing could be attached.

Neatly trim off the excess cane webbing around the edges of each door opening or panel, taking care not to nick the webbing or door. I used scissors, though you might achieve a neater finish using a very sharp craft knife.

Leave the cane webbing to dry fully and tighten up before reinstalling the doors in your cupboard. This may take around 4 to 8 hours.

Pros and cons of cane webbing

There are two sides to the appeal of installing cane webbing in cupboard doors: aesthetic and functional. Many home renovators and interior designers choose this feature for its light, organic and textured look, which can break up the flat expanse of a door panel.

Cane webbing can also be practical. If installed without a solid backing (so it covers a cut-out), it allows slight visibility of stored items, which may be useful in cupboards where occasional or seasonal items are kept, for instance.

“It also has an effect on airflow and natural ventilation, for example in media units where electronics get warm, wardrobes, laundry cupboards or pantries,” says Samantha-Jane Agbontaen, interior designer and founder of House Designer. Plus, webbing is easier than solid wood for signals from WiFi devices (like internet routers) to pass through.

If you have an antique cupboard or cabinet where the glazing is missing or needs to be replaced, cane webbing is a glass alternative that could also transform the look of the piece.

“It also softens cabinetry,” continues Samantha-Jane. “A run of solid doors can feel heavy and flat, but cane breaks it up with texture, without adding pattern or colour.

“We have designed bespoke joinery and wardrobes with cane webbing added to the design for a mid century modern space,” she adds. “Think Thonet, 1950s and 60s cabinetry. It adds texture and layers to the materials and the look.”

“At Foxstow, we use natural square cane webbing on our shaker and slimline shaker door ranges,” adds Oliver Bryan. “It fits perfectly with the growing interest in mid-century inspired interiors," he agrees, "as well as the wider trend towards bringing natural textures and materials into the home.”

The downsides of cane webbing

The most immediate downside to using cane webbing as a cupboard door panel is the cost of the material. A roll of natural cane webbing can cost anywhere from around £10 to over £70 per square metre – so the materials cost to add cane webbing to a large cupboard can run to several hundred pounds.

A longer-term disadvantage could be the effort required to clean cane webbing. “Some webbing is so fine that dust settles in the weave, so it needs a brush rather than a wipe,” says Samnatha Jane Agbontaen. It's also a case of you get what you pay for she explains, telling us that, “if the quality isn’t great it can sag and fray.”

FAQs

Can I fit cane webbing if I don't have much DIY experience?

As we’ve seen, it’s certainly possible for you to install cane webbing in your own cupboard door as a DIYer.

However, a professional joiner or furniture-maker will usually achieve a finer finish than the average amateur. “While there are plenty of tutorials available online, achieving a professional result definitely requires a craftsman’s eye,” says Oliver Bryan.

“The weave pattern needs to run straight, tension needs to be consistent across the panel, and every door needs to match the next. Small inaccuracies that might go unnoticed on a single door can become very obvious when several doors are installed together. As with many traditional materials, it’s the attention to detail that makes all the difference.”

Doors and entrances can make a dramatic difference to the finish and feel of a home. If you’re feeling inspired after installing cane webbing in your cupboard doors, explore how to create a hidden utility room entrance, the best front door ideas for a combination of style and security, and how to choose bifold doors vs sliding doors for patio access.

A nail gun is a smart and simple way to speed up a DIY project. They're much faster than the old-school hammer method and generally more effective. They use a burst of power to drive a nail or staple into wood in a split second. This lets you quickly move on to the next fixing point.

There are two common types: first fix and second fix. Nail guns and stapler combos, known as second fix (which we are reviewing here) are ideal for securing wooden boards to frames, nailing fence panels to timber, fixing skirting boards, fitting architrave and fastening fabric to wooden furniture frames.

Here, I run the Titan TTB970NST second-fix nail gun/stapler through a series of tests to see how well it tackles the DIY jobs I had in store and if it makes it onto my list of must-have tools.

SPECS AND FEATURES

• Motor: 1900W
• Magazine volume: 100
• Cord length: 2 metres
• Weight: 1.45kg
• Fixing sizes: Nails - 15mm-32mm / Staples - 15mm-25mm
• Nail/Staple type: 18ga
• Firing rate: Max 30 per minute
• Guarantee: 2 years
• Features: Adjustable impact control, Nail - 2 x 32mm strip x 50, Staples - 2 x 20mm strip x 50 / 4 x 25mm strip x 50

UNBOXING & FIRST IMPRESSIONS

My first impression was that it was a basic piece of kit, but it didn't surprise me as the Titan TTB970NST 32mm Second Fix Electric Nail Gun Stapler is a Screwfix own-brand tool. This means it's offered at a very respectable, budget-friendly price of under £35.

There was a distinct lack of packaging – just the box, which held the corded nail gun/stapler, a small box of brad nails, and 20mm and 25mm staples. I like the fact that there was little packaging to get rid of, but a bit more would have kept the contents from moving around in the box.

I also would have liked more nails in the box, but there are plenty to start a DIY project. You can also purchase an additional pack of 2000 for around £5. One thing missing from the box was a carry or hard case to store the tool. But that's par for the course for power tools that sit at the budget end of the market.

The unit is solid enough, with a functional soft grip, but it doesn't match the more expensive power tools I've used. The trigger is a little clunky, and the plastic elements of the magazine suggest they weren't built to last, but time and testing will reveal more. The impact control slider was simple and straightforward, nothing too fancy here.

My overall impression was that I was getting a budget-friendly tool, so my expectations weren't as high as they might have been if I were investing in a high-end power tool. However, I headed into testing with an open mind.

SETTING UP

Setting up the Titan TTB970NST itself wasn't too involved. However, you do need to choose the right fixing for the task you are tackling. Introducing the supplied brad nails (nails with tiny heads similar to panel pins) was straightforward. Simply pull back the fastener retainer and twist it onto the retainer holder. Then place the nail or staple strip into the magazine. Just make sure you follow the insertion instructions. It's pretty simple, but if you've never used a nail gun, it's easy to get wrong.

To finish, pull back and twist the retainer back into place to hold the nails or staples in place. The plastic retainer didn't fill me with confidence; it wasn't a heavyweight piece of kit, but it did the job. But I'm not sure how long it will last.

To finish, set the adjustable impact control slider button. The handle has '+' and '-' moulded into it to help you choose, but they're the same colour as the body, so they're hard to see. If you're using it for the first time, it's recommended to set it to the lowest setting and test it on the material you're using for the project. You can adjust accordingly while testing.

Don't forget to wear the appropriate safety gear before you start. I recommend safety goggles (such as these Site SEY550 Slimline Safety Goggles from Screwfix), work boots and sturdy work gloves at the very least. I'd also suggest ear defenders such as these Dr.Meter Ear Defenders from Amazon.

PERFORMANCE

To test, I used the supplied fixings - nails and staples. To start, I did some quick tests on 18mm plywood and 12mm softwood I had lying around to get a feel for the Titan TTB970NST. The gun has a 2m cord, so you will need an extension - such as this 10m IONOS 2 Socket Cable Reel from Amazon to do most jobs safely.

As recommended, I started on the lowest setting and tried the 32mm nails in 18mm plywood. This was a no. There simply wasn't enough force to drive them all the way in, but this wasn't unexpected. So I turned up the impact control to full and tried again. This time no problem.

Next I nailed together two scrap pieces of 18mm plywood. A job well done; the two pieces were going nowhere, they were securely fastened. I tried the same with some 9mm, 12mm and 18mm MDF and got very similar results. To finish up the nails, I fitted a few feather edge fencing boards I hadn't got round to putting up. Once again, impact control was at full, so there was no problem fixing them in place.

The only issue was that with impact control at full, marks were left in the wood next to the fixing. Not a problem generally, but in some cases, fewer marks are better. Fine-tuning the impact control helped to some degree, but not completely.

Next it was time to test the 20mm and 25mm staples. These are commonly used to attach materials to wood, often for upholstering. Again, I tested both on plywood, MDF and some 9mm and 12mm softwood. Once more, everything worked a treat.

To finish, I decided to give the Titan TTB970NST a sterner test and see how it worked on some 15mm and 35mm hardwood I've kept forever. This proved a step too far, with the nails struggling to fully penetrate the wood. But it was still worth trying.

During testing, I used all the nails supplied (100); they went much quicker than I expected, but new nails such as these Erbauer Galvanised Straight Brad Nails 18ga x 32mm 2000 Pack from Screwfix are relatively cheap - £5.49 at the time of testing. Smaller 15mm nails such as this Easyfix Galvanised Brad Nails 18ga x 15mm 2000 Pack from Screwfix were even less - £2.99.

Finally, a word of warning: if you are adding more than a few nails or staples, I strongly recommend ear defenders. While the Titan TTB970NST is on a par with similar nail guns (the manufacturer's sound pressure level states 95.3 dB(A)), anything above 85db is considered a hearing risk. So keep those ears covered.

FINAL VERDICT

If you're an occasional DIYer who doesn't want or need to spend big on a nail fun or stapler, I would definitely put the Titan TTB970NST on your to-buy list. I was pleasantly surprised at how well it worked, which was better than I expected. All the supplied fixings powered through the plywood, MDF, softwood, and other materials I tried.

I didn't experience any jams, though I've read a few reviews that have. So my only real reservation is the build quality of certain components. Some plastic parts, like the fastener retainer, worked well but felt a bit flimsy. Only time will tell how well it lasts. But at such a budget-friendly price point, it's hard to resist. And if it fails outside its warranty, you won't need to spend much to replace it.

Any serious DIYer needs a jigsaw in their power tool collection. It's a multi-talented piece of kit that can cut wood, worktops, plastic and metal with the right blade, and its real talent lies in cutting curves and shapes that aren't straight.

Effectively, there is no other saw that can do what a jigsaw can do. Its versatility makes it one of the best types of power saw and an essential item for anyone looking to renovate or update their home.

Here, I put the DeWalt DCS331N XR cordless jigsaw through its paces to see just how good it is, and help you decide if it's the tool for you.

Specs and features

• Motor: Brushed
• Weight: 2.2kg (bare tool) 2.8kg (with battery)
• Stroke rate: 0-3,000 spm
• Stroke Length: 26mm
• Bevel angles: 0°, 15°, 30°, and 45°
• Batteries: 2 x 4.0Ah DeWALT XR batteries
• Charger: 1 x 12v 4A XR LI-ION charger
• Max cutting depth: Wood -135mm / Aluminium - 25mm / Steel - 10mm
• Warranty: 3 years
• Features: Lever-action keyless blade change, adjustable dust blower, multi-position pendulum action, variable speed trigger, lock switch, removable shoe cover

Where to buy

Body only – view at Toolstation

Body and toolbox - view at Amazon

Body and blades - view at Toolden

UNBOXING & FIRST IMPRESSIONS

DeWalt is a big name in the world of power tools, so I was expecting big things from the DeWalt DCS331N XR cordless jigsaw. First impressions count, and the DeWalt made a good one. The DCS331N came in a sturdy, hard plastic case emblazoned with DeWALT in bright yellow brand colour, with smart metal latches to keep it closed on the move.

With no packaging to worry about, I cracked open the case and looked inside. Neatly laid out were the jigsaw, a decent-sized charger, two 4.0Ah XR batteries (one installed on the jigsaw and one packaged in plastic), and an attachable dust blower. All held in place thanks to the moulded inserts.

While everything was in place to unleash the beast, one key element was missing. No blades. And let's be honest, a saw with no blades…well, you know what I'm saying. DeWalt offers a wide range of jigsaw blades, so it would have been good to see a few branded blades in the box. For context, I bought this 10-piece set of Erbauer Multi-Material Jigsaw Blades from Screwfix to test out the jigsaw. The set includes a combination of 75mm and 52mm blades suitable for metal, wood and plastic.

The unit was solid, well-built, and well-balanced, but it wasn't lightweight, with the bare tool weighing 2.2kg, slightly heavier than average. However, for me this reinforces the quality you are getting. I like the battery placement on the back of the handle as well which is nice and easy to use.

The handle fitted neatly into my palm and the soft rubber grip gave me a sense of security. Sitting next to my thumb was a lock button and a variable-speed trigger (more on this later). This meant there was no speed dial. If this is something you can't live without, you could upgrade to the DeWalt DCS334N (available from B&Q) for a little more. It's worth mentioning that the DCS334N has a brushless motor, whereas the DCS331N has a brushed motor. A brushless motor is typically more durable and energy efficient.

There are plenty of other features to contend with though. The lever blade change looked a breeze to use; there was an easy-to-attach dust blower (no bag though), a quick-to-remove shoe cover, a bevel lever for predetermined angles, and an orbital action lever.

SETTING UP

Remember, when using a cordless tool, the smart and safe thing to do is add the attachment – in this case a blade – before the battery. I of course remembered to heed my own advice and did just that.

To test, I added the 52mm and 75mm blades I had bought, and loved the way that the blades slid into the holder. All you need to do is pull up the metal lever on the front of the tool, slide in the blade and release. Quick and easy. Repeat, give the jigsaw a wiggle and the blade should fall out. It doesn't get much better than this.

With the blade ready to go, it was time to slip the battery in. Its positioning made it really simple, and it didn't affect the balance. There's more you can do depending on the job being tackled. I left the anti-scratch shoe cover on, but this means you get about 3mm less depth on the blade. Finally, I attached the dust blower and was ready to go.

PERFORMANCE

As the DCS331N doesn't come with any blades, I used the Erbauer blades I'd purchased for testing it. It's worth pointing out that the blades you use can affect the cut and finish. Cheap blades rarely last long, while higher-quality blades typically deliver better cuts. The Erbauer blades had good reviews, so I was hoping they would be up to the task.

To start, I decided to go with common cutting tasks: straight, curved and angled cuts on 18mm plywood. The saw (and blade) breezed through the plywood for all cuts, leaving a neat, clean finish. Little vibration and no pushback. Releasing the easy-to-use bevel lever brings the bevel angles into play. You can choose between 0 (the default), 15, 30 and 45 degrees. A dull click and etched angles on the shoe plate help ensure accuracy.

For my safety and ease, I pushed the trigger lock into place with my thumb, rather than removing the battery every time I needed to adjust the jigsaw.

Each angle was accurate, according to my old-school protractor, combination square and speed square. Cutting the 45-degree angle was more challenging than the other angles, but still pretty straightforward.

To help with cuts, the DeWalt offers a three-position orbital action lever. I unusually stick with zero (default) for most cuts. Position 3 is good for quicker, more aggressive cuts, but as you might expect, the cut isn't as smooth or clean. Position 1 or 2 sits somewhere in between.

Elsewhere, there is a dust blower controller that works with the easy-to-attach dust blower. I tried this in various positions and didn’t notice much difference while working outside. If indoors (especially), you can attach a vacuum attachment to the dust blower to remove much of the dust produced.

To continue testing, I cut through 12mm MDF, similar-sized hardwood shelves, trimmed up my laminate worktop, shaped some old plasterboard to fit a small piece of ceiling that needed replacing, and cut plastic waste pipe and some laminate flooring that needed shaping.

The DeWalt DCS331N XR cordless jigsaw didn’t struggle at any point, unless you count the period at the end of the battery runtime. But, a quick changeover and it was back to normal. The variable-speed trigger gives good control over blade speed, but in reality there are only two speeds: full on and half speed; anything in between is hard to control. However, this will have little effect on most DIY projects.

BATTERY LIFE

Owning a cordless tool means the battery plays a major part in its working life. Ideally, no DIYer wants slow charging times or short runtimes. Thankfully, the DeWALT comes with two 4.0 Ah batteries and a powerful 4A charger. The batteries are part of DeWalt’s premium XR (eXtreme Runtime) range. According to DeWALT, "This is our claim that these batteries last longer than our non-XR versions. They are the higher amp hour batteries and have a larger fuel tank." So it seems they are built to last; time will tell.

Both batteries come partially charged (as they should be), according to the 3-LED indicator on the battery. So that did mean I could use both straight away. To test, I used the first battery until it ran out, then fully charged it for a more thorough test. While using the fully charged battery, I powered up the spare to full capacity, ready to be called into action.

The charger is a simple single-battery affair with a couple of hard-to-miss lights next to the battery, and below, a user-friendly usage chart. The lights represent battery charging progress, which I really liked. When the smaller light starts flashing, you know it won't be long before the battery is fully charged. When it switched to solid red, the battery is ready to go.

A (very) small point, but I would have liked to see it switch to green. If the battery is too hot or cold, a yellow light will also come on as a warning. It didn't happen for me, but is useful to know.

The supplied 4.0Ah battery was quoted as taking 60 minutes to charge on the manual. So how long did it take to charge? Around 60 minutes, which, while not super fast, is very reasonable and obviously what I expected. The second battery charging time, as you might expect, matched the first very closely.

Now to the last and important part. How long does the battery last? This is based on a variety of tasks and, obviously, not on continued use. But around 40-45 minutes seemed to be the average runtime before the battery started to falter. Which I would say is definitely better than average.

FINAL VERDICT

If you are looking for a step-up in quality but don't want to spend all your budget, then the DeWalt DCS331N XR cordless jigsaw provides a happy balance. While it would be considered a budget model by DeWalt standards, you are still getting a durable, hard-working jigsaw with a set of useful features to tackle any DIY project.

Ideally, you want to buy the DeWalt DCS331N XR cordless jigsaw as a set with the battery and charger. However, if you can't find the set anywhere, you'll need to add the cost of a charger and battery.

The DeWalt 18V XR Charger 4 Amp and a DeWalt XR 18V Battery 4.0Ah (both from Toolstation) will double the cost. However, you will be investing in a top-quality jigsaw that will be with you for years.

TikTok is full of tempting quick DIY fixes, short sound bites, time-saving tricks, hacks and shortcuts. Everyone wants to save money, and why not? But with the average video lasting around 60 seconds, how much information can really be crammed into this short space of time that took a tradesperson years to learn?

Something simple might work, but for any serious DIY tasks, short-form video simply skips over too many of the important parts. And what about credibility? What makes them an expert? You really need to pick and choose what you watch before diving in.

There’s plenty of DIY tips on social media in general for home renovations that I think should be consigned to the bin. Here are a few of my personal pet hates, backed-up by others in the know.

1. Sock for painting spindles

I’ve seen this DIY advice/hack not just on TikTok, but across other platforms as well. Personally, I’m not a fan. It seems like a smart idea, but it definitely doesn't do a better job than a decent paintbrush or mini roller (for flat surfaces). I've tried it, and I won't ever be trying it again. It's no quicker, creates a mess, and the finish is no better.

Lucy Steele, senior brand manager and resident colour expert at Valspar Paint, agrees. “Socks absorb far more paint than a brush and releases it much less evenly, so you often end up using significantly more paint than you actually need.

“Not only does this create more mess," she confirms, "but it can also mean buying extra paint to finish the job, making what seems like a money-saving hack more expensive in the long run."

A sock doesn't give as much control over application either. “A sock tends to deposit paint in patches, and can push excess paint into grooves and decorative details," warns Lucy, which can easily lead to paint runs and a streaky finish.

Some might disagree, but I say avoid. Get a small trim brush such as this Harris Trade Fine Tip Emulsion & Gloss Paint Brush from Amazon instead and take your time. "Two light coats with a brush will always produce a smoother, more durable finish,” confirms Lucy.

On the other hand, one DIY trick that does seem to work for the Homebuilding & Renovating team is a tanning mitt. Brand director, Laura Crombie swears by this for painting fiddly areas, if want to try something else other than a paintbrush or roller.

Shop these products to help get your DIY right

2. Safety last rather than safety first

Safety gear often seems to be an afterthought when tackling DIY tasks for a lot of TikTokers. Not sure why; I've seen people working with angle grinders, sparks everywhere. I've seen people trying to break up concrete with power tools. Wearing goggles? Of course not. At the most they may be wearing gloves.

Paul McFadyen, chairman and resident metals specialist at Metals4U, reinforces why this is never a good idea. "Angle grinders can be incredibly useful tools for renovation projects, but they need to be handled with extreme care, and often on TikTok we see people encouraging bad and extremely dangerous practices.

“If a disc catches or shatters while cutting, fragments can be projected at high speed, potentially causing serious injury," he warns.

"Before starting any job, make sure you're using the correct disc for the material, inspect it for signs of damage, wear appropriate PPE including gloves, eye, and hearing protection, and only take on work you feel confident carrying out safely," says Paul.

3. Painting worktops is false economy

A quick and cheap refresh is very tempting. What you'll typically see on TikTok are before-and-after shots, not what it looks like 12 months down the line. Painting worktops is a short-term solution, even if done well. It's something you can do if selling your house and need an instant refresh, but it won't offer you a long-term solution.

For a start, laminate worktops are designed to be hard-wearing, so paint doesn't bond that well. Even if you are careful and rarely put hot pans on the surface, it will need regular cleaning. Kieran Nagle, a DIY expert on Airtasker, backs this up.

"Just using a kitchen day-to-day means paint can chip quite quickly. Those little chips and cracks can collect dirt and bacteria, which isn’t ideal on a surface where you're preparing food.

“However, if you really want to paint them, make sure you're using a product specifically designed for worktops," he continues, "rather than leftover paint from the shed.”

Personally, I never paint a laminate or wooden worktop. If I want a quick and relatively cheap worktop makeover, I always use self-adhesive vinyl such as this d-c-fix Walnut Self-adhesive Vinyl Wrap from B&Q. This is easy to apply, lasts longer, has plenty of design options and the end result always looks much better.

4. Tiling on top of tiles without checking if you should

Is this the worst advice I've seen on TikTok? No. If done correctly, it can be a real time-saver; I’ve tiled over tiles, but always followed some simple rules which is rarely the case on TikTok. A lot of TikTok videos focus on the aesthetic taking the view that it looks great, so all is good. No, it's not.

As Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements points out, “videos rarely talk about ensuring that the existing tiles have been properly assessed for their integrity or for being hollow or loose."

Too much weight on a surface and the harsh reality is that everything will come tumbling down. This is even more likely if working with a plasterboard sub-base.

“I've seen tiles peel off en masse in one year due to not being checked for what you were tiling onto," confirms Angelo.

In short, get it wrong, and you're heading for a DIY disaster, and an expensive one at that. Imagine a couple of months in, and the tiles start to fall off the wall. You can't replace them, as the same problem is going to happen again. You'll need to remove the remaining new tiles, remove the old tiles, re-plaster the walls, buy new tiles, and pay to get them installed. That's not going to be cheap.

And even if a wall is fit for purpose, there's rarely any mention of the effect of the double thickness. How will this affect doorways, doors, sockets, worktops and half-tiled walls? It can be hard to create a decent aesthetic and integrate the new surface well. Double-layer floors for example can lead to trimming the bottom of doors, which is very irritating, and you could fund under-counter kitchen appliances will struggle to fit under a countertop. Be warned if you're considering this technique in your home.

5. Mixing plumbing materials the wrong way

Messing up painting a wall is a relatively easy fix, but botched plumbing can have serious and expensive consequences. I'm good with simple plumbing jobs such as replacing a tap or adding a new isolation valve like this Flat Faced Male Straight Isolating Valve from Toolstation. But I try to avoid anything more complicated before asking one of my plumbing mates; it's easy to make mistakes (as I know from experience).

"One of the biggest risks we’ve seen in the TikTok DIY community is people carrying out plumbing repairs and not understanding how different metals interact together,” expands Paul McFadyen.

“A common example is connecting older galvanised steel pipes directly to new copper pipework. This will solve the problem initially, but further down the line problems will lead to premature failure,” he warns.

If you are going to do any DIY plumbing, get expert advice before you start as generally, in classic TikTok fashion, all looks good to start, with little thought for the consequences.

“Seeking professional advice before making alterations can help avoid costly repairs and extend the lifespan of your plumbing system," advises Paul. You have been warned.

6. Confusing US advice with UK advice

It's easy to forget that there are no physical borders on social media platforms, so you can easily be watching content created in the USA. A lot of advice simply won't work, or work as well in the UK. There are distinct differences between construction methods, such as those required when building a house in the UK compared to America, so it makes sense that you check the location of the TikToker before you start following any DIY advice.

Angleo Patrizi points out a few of the more common issues to look out for. "As well as different types of building construction (timber frame vs masonry construction), there are different ways of insulating and protecting against damp, and different pipework standards.

"Something that would work fine on an American stud wall construction might not work well at all on a UK solid wall in a Victorian terrace, or a cavity wall."

Then there's terminology to think about, which can make everything more complicated. You probably know that drywall is plasterboard, but do you know what latex paint is? It's emulsion. What about baseboard? Skirting boards. All something to watch out for. And don't forget, the US use imperial measurements, not metric like the UK.

Whatever DIY project you're looking to tackle, as well as the right methods for the job, you also need to make sure have the right tools. Find out the tools I recommend for decorating, and if you're on a limited budget, these are the 5 budget power tools I'd always buy.

When tackling a paint project, you need to choose the right paint tool to ensure you get the best finish. Will you need a paint sprayer? Or will a brush or roller be the best choice?

In reality, I find you usually need a combination to complete a project. However, you still need to choose the right combination.

Different scenarios often dictate which paint tool is the best option. Sometimes it's easy to decide; other times it's not so simple. The best paint sprayers work well on certain surfaces, but not others; the same for rollers and brushes. Here I reveal what works well and where, so you always get the best finish.

Where to use a sprayer, brush and roller

The simple answer to 'which tool should I use?', is paintbrushes for woodwork such as skirting boards, door frames, doors, and windows. Rollers for painting walls and ceilings, and paint sprayers for cabinets, cabinet doors and fences. This is what I typically use each for, but as always, it's not that straightforward.

Brushes and rollers are typically more flexible and cost-effective than paint sprayers and can be used on interior woodwork and walls. For exterior projects, Paul Kerr, building specialist at Beatsons Building Supplies, says, “rollers can be utilised for outdoor stucco and masonry, while brushes are great for intricate deck railings or woods." Another DIY task they are commonly used for is applying wallpaper paste. Brushes are also essential for cutting in around edges.

Paint sprayers are commonly useful for more specific surfaces and jobs. Timothy Evans, founder of Tess Construction, explains out what they are ideal for. “Paint sprayers come into their own on large exterior surfaces such as fences, cladding and render, as well as spraying kitchen cabinet fronts where a factory-smooth finish is the goal.

"Sprayers are also the best choice for rough or textured surfaces where a brush or roller would struggle to get into every crevice," he adds.

Shop these paint tools for the best finish

Where not to use a sprayer, roller or brush

You can technically use a brush, roller or sprayer for any surface indoors or outdoors, but common sense directs you in a more obvious direction.

For example, Paul Kerr says, "A sprayer doesn't do well on windy days, so when using one outdoors, try to pick a gentle sunny day for it, as they can waste a lot of excess paint in overspraying.”

Timothy Evans points out where rollers aren't a suitable choice: "A roller isn’t suited to small, detailed areas where its size prevents good contact. A brush gives you maximum control here.”

Paintbrushes can be used anywhere, but again, it often makes sense to use an alternative option, as Jack Reading from exterior paint specialists, Emperor Paint, explains.

"There aren't many surfaces where you simply can't use a brush, but it becomes impractical across large areas and makes decorating a much bigger job than it needs to be.”

Pros and cons of spray, brushes and rollers

Speed of application is a key benefit for paint sprayers, which means as a general rule, a paint sprayer is the quickest tool, closely followed by a roller, with a brush typically being the slowest.

“The obvious appeal of spraying is speed, where on large enough projects it can save a lot of application time,” says Jack Reading. But, sprayers need a lot more prep time and use more paint, pushing up paint costs.

As an example, I used a 5L tin of Cuprinol Garden Shades from B&Q (watered down as recommended by the manufacturer) and this covered around 30% less than when I used a brush.

The obvious benefit of rollers is that they are more cost-effective than paint sprayers, and faster than brushes for large flat areas. However, they absorb more paint and create a mist spray when used, so you do need to make sure areas are covered before starting.

There are parts of the job where nothing beats a brush,” says Jack “You have much more control around edges, details, and awkward areas. But, a brush is always slower," he warns.

For most jobs, including cutting in, I like to use a 3-inch brush such as this ProDec Premier Trade Professional Brush from Amazon, as it holds paint well, and lets you cover more area in one go.

For applying to woodwork, I typically use a 2-inch brush, as it holds paint well, has a smooth release, and gives good coverage. For oil-based paints, I always use a natural bristle brush.

Is the preparation work the same for every painting tool?

Typically, surface preparation remains much the same whether you are using a brush, roller, or paint sprayer. For example, if painting a wall, you will need to prepare the wall for painting so it's clean, smooth and free of loose debris. The same principles will apply when preparing woodwork.

However, while you'll only need dust sheets such as these ARVO Extra Large Plastic Dust Sheets for Decorating to cover floors and furniture with brushes and rollers, more protection will be needed when spraying.

Spraying is also more time-consuming when it comes to prep, explains Paul Kerr. “You need to make sure the room is completely bare of furnishings and anything that can't be moved needs to be covered up, or apray will float all over the room/space and settle everywhere," he warns.

To avoid overspray, I use a painter's tape such as this ScotchBlue Multi-Surface Premium Masking Tape from Amazon to tape down the edges of my dust sheets.

You'll also need personal protection, especially for interior spray paint jobs notes Paul, recommending, "eye protection, a mask/respirator and some coveralls for your clothes.”

Do sprayers, brushes and rollers work with all paints?

While technically most paint types work with all paint tools, each works slightly differently.

“Brushes and rollers work with most paints, but choosing the right matches makes the job much easier for yourself," expands Jack Reading.“For brushes, synthetic bristles are best for water-based paints, while oil-based paints work well with natural or suitable synthetic brushes."

Rollers are much the same, but you will need to think about the surface they are being used on, he continues. “With rollers, smooth walls need a shorter pile, while rough surfaces need a longer pile to reach into the texture.”

Paint sprayers are different again, explains Timothy Evans. "Sprayers require paint to be thinned to the correct viscosity, and not all paints thin appropriately for spraying. Very thick masonry paints, and some specialist coatings need an airless sprayer, rather than a standard HVLP unit.”

I’ve got a standard HVLP paint sprayer - The Wagner W100 Paint sprayer - available from B&Q. I only ever use fence paint or watered-down emulsion, so effectively only water-based paints. I never bother with oil-based paints. If I do, I hire an airless sprayer. Whatever you use, make sure to check the manufacturer's dilution recommendation.

Common mistakes to avoid when choosing and using paint tools

1. Wrong roller pile

For smooth walls, it's easy, as all piles work. The shorter the pile, the smoother the finish. However, if you have a heavily textured surface, make sure to use an extra-long-pile roller to get into the gaps.

2. Thinning paint incorrectly

“A common mistake when using a paint sprayer is thinning the paint incorrectly, which causes runs or blockages,” says Timothy Evans. Always check the manufacturer's recommendations and test on an out-of-the-way area. I usually try it on a piece of waste cardboard or wallpaper first.

3. Too much paint and pressure

To get a smooth, even finish, Timothy Evans recommends avoiding overloading a paint roller. “With rollers, overloading the roller causes spatter and uneven coverage,” he explains.

“Be careful also not to apply too much pressure when applying the paint,” adds Paul Kerr, as this causes paint overload on the edges, leaving ridges of paint.

Paul's final piece of advice? "Avoid very cheap rollers as they can shed after a couple uses.”

4. Not cleaning your paint tools properly

At the end of a job, it's easy to skimp on the cleaning. But it needs to be done properly. Brushes and rollers will go stiff and not apply paint as well the next time they are used. If you can't clean your paint brushes or rollers immediately wrap them in cling film to keep moist if using the next day.

You’ll also need to think about the paint type you've used when it comes to cleaning rollers. Water-based paints are easy to clean. Run up a tap until the water runs clear, squeeze and leave to dry. Removing oil-based paints isn’t as simple. First, I use a scraper like this Purdy Contractor brush and roller cleaner from Amazon to remove as much paint as possible.

I follow this up by soaking the roller in white spirit or brush cleaner, and then squeezing the paint out. Repeat with clean white spirit until clear. To finish, I wash the roller sleeve in warm soapy water, rinse the soap out with clean water, stand it up, and leave it to dry.

For paint sprayers, pay extra attention to the nozzle. They have fine holes that can block easily, causing uneven spray patterns and a patchy finish.

Once you've taken on board this advice, find out what you’ll need for painting new plaster, painting a house and painting over water stains. Or, for paint inspiration, check out our guides on how to choose a paint colour and the latest paint trends.

As your DIY aspirations grow, so will your tool collection. Every time you take on a new DIY project, I guarantee that you'll be adding new tools to your collection. It could be something small or even perhaps a smart new power tool – but whatever it is, you need to find a space to house them.

Storing your tools correctly will extend their lifespan, even budget power tools that may not always last as long. And if your space is limited, it's not always easy finding solutions, but choosing the right location will make a big difference and stop them failing sooner than they should.

Combine this with essential and regular maintenance and your tools will be your friends for years to come. I know, because this is how I manage my own personal (and somewhat large) collection.

How to store tools

How you store your tools will have a big bearing on how long they last. Poorly stored and maintained tools will deteriorate much quicker than tools stored and maintained correctly. This means you're be replacing them sooner than you should, which will be costly in the long run. This is especially true of power tools which can involve substantial investment.

The best ways to store power tools

For individual power tools, I like to keep them stored in a hard case if at all possible. Better quality (and more expensive) power tools often come with a hard case, which is the perfect solution for ensuring they don't get bashed or broken.

“One mistake I see is people throwing different tools together in one large box,” shares Matthew O'Grady, director of Thomas Matthew Kitchens & Furniture. "What they don't realise is that every time that box is moved, the tools will knock into each other and that damages cutting edges, and can knock precision tools out of alignment.”

You can purchase hard cases separately, such as this Dewalt 18v SDS Power Tool Case Black from B&Q. However, you will need to do your online research to get a hard case that matches your power tool, especially if the manufacturer doesn't make hard cases. Generic cases like this Plastic Power Tool Storage Case are available from Amazon.

Budget-friendly power tools rarely come with a hard case (this helps keep the price down). DIY-friendly Black & Decker tools often come with a canvas carry case though, which offers a level of protection, especially from dust, and makes them easier to transport.

The alternative is to store the power tool in the cardboard box it came in. This is a short-term solution, as the box will absorb moisture and start to degrade if kept in damp or condensation-prone areas.

Ideally, you also want to store power tools (even if in hard cases) off the ground. Shelving units such as this Essentials 5-Tier Metal Garage Shelving Unit from Screwfix are a good choice.

I like to organise my power tools so I have easy access to the more frequently used ones. These are placed at shoulder height, with regularly used tools above, and the less frequently used at the bottom. However, don't overload the top shelves. Nick Smith, owner of NJS Sash Window Restoration, adds a note of caution (which I try to follow): “To help avoid injury, heavier tool boxes should be placed lower on the shelves.”

Shop these storage solutions

The correct way to store hand tools

The options for storing hand tools depends on what tools you have, what size they are and how many you have. I have various-sized toolboxes from small to large, and they are divided into specific tools, with my largest holding my decorating tools such as wallpaper brushes, rollers (for paste) etc. One of the smaller toolboxes keeps all my plumbing-related tools, such as this HAUTMEC Copper Pipe Cutter Set from Amazon.

Another small toolbox holds screwdrivers, hammers, pliers, and similar tools. My top tip is to invest in stackable toolboxes so you can neatly fit them on top of each other. Modular toolbox systems such as this Stanley Modular Rolling Toolbox from Screwfix are a reliable alternative.

Beyond toolboxes, I use plastic storage towers like this Tontarelli 3 Drawer Plastic Storage Tower Unit from Amazon as a cost-effective alternative. However, they don't last as long, but are cheap to replace. To help keep everything organised, label the drawers with a permanent marker or stickers.

If you have the space, a wall pegboard system such as this VonHaus Tool Pegboard from B&Q is also ideal for storing hand tools on the wall.

Storing the small stuff

Every DIYer has a collection of small stuff such as nails, screws, rawl plugs, and various other fixings – I know I do. Organising these makes it much easier to find what you need, when you need it.

I use a simple set of drawers such as this Really Useful Storage Drawer Unit from Amazon to store them at home. I also have a collection of small plastic bins where I store them for quick, easy access. Try something like this DIY Organiser from VonHaus. Another option is a carry case such as this DEKO Screw Storage Organiser Tool Box from Amazon which is ideal if you need to take a selection wherever you are working.

Garage or shed? The best location for storing tools

Your storage location can be dictated by circumstances. For example, I don’t have the luxury of a garage with good garage storage, so the majority of my tools are stored in my shed, with most of my power tools stored indoors.

A shed might not be the ideal solution, but if you are going to store your tools in one, Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements, says, “a shed with good shed insulation and ventilation that stores tools off the ground is okay, but cheap sheds are likely to be the worst places for metal items,” he warns.

That's why most of my power tools and a lot of my hand tools are stored inside. However, I am on the lookout for a decent shed and am thinking of investing in this Tubby 19mm Log Cabin Apex Work Shed from Dunster House as a potential solution.

But, if like me, you rely on storing your power tools indoors, what are your best options?

“Cupboards, areas under stairs or even a utility room are acceptable for tools,” advises Angelo. Advice I was already following as mine are stored under the stairs where I built my own shelving unit, especially for that reason.

“Power tools and batteries should be stored away from heaters and direct sunlight through windows," continues Angleo, a firm believer in the fact that, “dry always wins over warm, and ventilation is better than an airtight box.”

Keep the temperature constant

Wherever you store your tools, you need to think about temperature and humidity, says Nick Smith.

"A dry garage is better because the temperatures are more constant there than in a garden shed, where the temperature may be extremely hot in the summer and extremely cold in the winter. Just as you don't want your tools to be exposed to high temperatures, you also don't want to expose them to freezing temperatures," he explains.

But, there's also a bigger problem to bear in mind, warns Nick. Areas prone to moisture are the least suitable place to store tools. "Damp is of bigger concern than the temperature, as the constant presence of moisture will promote rust," he warns. "Condensation will also damage the wiring and circuitry of the tools and a tool's batteries."

A potential solution where temperature and moisture isn't always even? "Throw in a few Silica gel packs or moisture absorbers,” with your storage suggests Nick. This will help combat any moisture that does exist. “Air circulation is important," he adds, noting how a workshop that gets damp in the winter may also benefit from purchasing a small dehumidifier.

And, if you have been in a different location with your tools, (perhaps at your self-build but are living off-site and have bought them back with you), and you park on a driveway at night, Angleo Patrizi offers another warning. “Don’t store tools in a van overnight during winter," he says, "as a van gets wet and cold rather quickly, which is the quickest way to spoil a power tool.”

5 essential tips for maintaining tools

Storing tools correctly helps keep them in good condition, but constant maintenance is the key to longevity. There are a few things that I try to do after every use, no matter the tool.

1. Clean them

All tools need to be cleaned after use. Leaving dust, paint, or debris on a tool will lead to corrosion and failing parts. For example, I brush and wipe down all my power tools after use. The same goes for blades, if the tool has one. Decorating tools such as rollers and brushes need to be paint-free and left to dry.

2. Lubricate regularly

Some tools will be more obvious and easier to clean than others. For example, I have a few hand saws. I wipe them clean and use a cloth to add a thin layer of oil to help stop moisture forming on the surface. If you have exposed elements on a power tool, such as rails on a mitre saw, wipe them clean and lubricate them.

Ideally, give any moving parts like a drill chuck regular lubrication too. A squirt of WD-40 is a short-term solution. Check the manufacturer's recommendation on what lubricant to use.

3. Sharpen or replace

Any tools with a blade or cutting edge will dull over time. There are typically two options: sharpen or replace. Tools like chisels, pipe cutters, planer blades and lawnmower blades will need regular sharpening to keep working efficiently.

Blades for circular saws, mitre saws, jigsaws, reciprocating saws and angle grinder discs are easier to replace than sharpen. So always keep spare blades or discs so you can replace them when needed.

4. Battery care

A wipe and clean of contacts is simple aftercare when you swap out a battery. If you are not going to use a battery for a while, Angleo Patrizi says, “batteries should be kept charged at about 40-50% if not used for some period of time.” Personally, I wait until a battery is fully drained, charge for half the usual time of a full charge and then store it away.

5. Power cord care

Try not to wrap long power cords tightly around your elbow or arm. A music technician once told me off for doing that. Apparently it twists internal wires and shortens the life of the cable. For extension cables, it is recommended to unwind completely so there is less chance of overheating. Occasionally wipe the sockets clean and always pull out plugs by the casing, not the cable.

Keeping your tools in good condition means that you tackle a whole host of DIY projects for years to come. But, before you dive into your next project, follow my advice on the 10 DIY mistakes to avoid, and find out what essential tools you need and where to buy them.

You can never just assume that a wall or household fitting is straight and true. Structures move over time, and both DIYers and tradespeople can make mistakes.

One thing you can trust is that gravity will always pull a suspended object towards the centre of the planet. There’s a cheap, simple, traditional tool that uses this natural law to establish a true vertical reference: a plumb bob and line. This type of tool has been used since antiquity, and it’s still popular in the present day.

Whether you buy a plumb bob and line from a hardware retailer, or make your own using household items, it should help you to establish exactly which way is up. This can ensure neat, straight edges in DIY projects, which makes using a plumb bob one of the most effective wallpaper hacks you can learn.

What is a plumb bob and line?

A plumb bob is a weighty object, typically made of metal and featuring a pointed tip. The line is simply a piece of string, cord or another flexible material which the plumb bob can dangle from. Together, they’re a highly effective tool for plotting a perfectly vertical reference line onto a wall.

When the end of the line is tied to a fixed point such as a nail or hook, the bob should dangle exactly vertically, as it is pulled towards earth’s centre of gravity. This holds the line taut, straight down the wall.

“A plumb bob and line is one of the oldest and most dependable tools in DIY and despite the growing popularity of laser levels, it’s still an excellent way to establish a true vertical reference line,” says Laura Nicholson, head of buying at B&Q.

“The tool relies on gravity rather than batteries and calibration, so it’s highly accurate when used correctly. It’s especially handy for everyday DIY jobs where a straight vertical guide is needed, from hanging wallpaper and aligning shelving to checking door frames, fitting wall panelling or making sure posts and stud walls are upright.

“It’s also particularly useful when tiling, helping to establish a true vertical starting line, especially as walls, corners and bathtubs aren’t always perfectly level or square,” she says.

An affordable, effective plumb bob and line:

How to use a plumb bob and line

1. Tie the line to a fixed point

“Securely attach the line to a fixed point above the area you’re working on, and allow the weighted bob to hang freely,” says Laura Nicholson.

In most cases, you will need to install a small fixing into the wall in order to suspend the plumb bob. I drilled a hole and installed a small hook into a suitably sized Rawlplug.

Choose the place from which you hang your plumb bob carefully. If you’re tiling the wall or wallpapering it, then it would make sense to use the horizontal centre of the area being decorated, so that the reference line can line up with where your laying or papering pattern starts.

Do not allow the plumb bob to dangle down past a skirting board or similar obstacle, as this can disrupt its accuracy. “Make sure the line can hang freely without touching the wall or anything else,” Laura advises.

2. Be patient

A plumb bob will inevitably swing or spin for a while after you’ve hung it up. It will stop moving after a minute or two (unless there’s a disruption such as excessive airflow through the space).

“It’s important to wait until the bob has completely stopped moving before taking your measurements, because even the slightest swing can affect the accuracy,” says Laura Nicholson.

“Once completely still, the string will provide a true vertical line that you can use as a guide for marking, aligning or checking surfaces.”

3. Mark along the line

You’re now ready to make your perfectly vertical reference marks, but, "rather than measuring against the bob itself, mark alongside the string once it has settled,” says Laura Nicholson.

“If you’re marking a finished wall, applying a strip of masking tape first allows you to make pencil marks without marking the surface directly,” she suggests. This Status IONOS Masking Tape from Amazon is light in colour, making it easy to see any marks that you make.

Try not to knock the line while making your pencil marks, as this can cause the bob to start swinging or spinning again.

4. Align your project materials

Use a ruler or straight-edge tool to join up the pencil marks you’ve made using the plumb bob and line. Try this White Aluminium Cutting Ruler from Amazon to create a straight line between your pencil marks.

You can now use this pencil line as a reference point for your project. If applicable, place your materials (such as tiles or a section of wallpaper) along the line, and work outwards across the wall.

If your materials are perfectly square, then the accurate verticality should carry through across the laying pattern. However, you will often benefit from drawing multiple vertical references across the wall so that you can keep checking your pattern as you work, especially if you are decorating a wide area, as no material or DIYer is perfectly accurate.

FAQs

Can you make your own plumb bob and line?

Plumb bobs can be one of those makeshift tools that you cobble together at home from commonplace items (such as a washer and a piece of string), although it won’t cost you much to get a good, purpose-made plumb bob and line set from a DIY retailer.

For most people, the maximum length of line you could need will be the height of the highest-ceilinged room in your home (or the stairwell). Cut your line to suit and tie it securely to an object that is heavy enough to pull the line taut.

What does ‘plumb bob’ mean?

The term ‘plumb bob’ refers to the material that was historically used to make these tools: lead (which is called plumbum in Latin and also gives us the word ‘plumbing’). Plumb bobs are also sometimes called ‘plummets’.

The same type of tool and the same principles have been used in construction and decorating since antiquity.

What has replaced traditional plumb bob and lines?

The plumb bob and line hasn’t been replaced, but other, more modern measurement tools have been designed to do similar or slightly different tasks – in some contexts more effectively than a plumb bob and line.

“Modern laser levels such as the selection we have at B&Q are ideal for larger projects, but a plumb bob remains an affordable and dependable addition to your DIY toolkit,” says Laura Nicholson.

“Plumb bobs are simple to use and can provide excellent accuracy for everyday home improvement tasks, making them a reliable alternative when a laser level isn’t needed.”

Nowadays, you can also get relatively sophisticated plumb bobs, including models with pins and/or magnets that can be attached rapidly to walls or steels for quick, convenient measurement.

What are the drawbacks to a plumb bob and line?

A plumb bob and line is by no means perfect. It can only show you a vertical line (unless used with a tape measure and multiple lines of reference), whereas a good laser level will provide both vertical and horizontal references.

Another downside to this tool that we’ve already touched upon is that a plumb bob and line can be rendered inaccurate by disruptions (such as breezes) or obstacles (such as skirting boards or dado rails).

Yair Meshoulam, founder of Wallpaper Hangers, avoids using a plumb bob and line, although he does find the tools interesting. “A spirit level is more accurate,” he says. “The longer it is, the more accurate it is, and the more truly straight the line will be. You don’t have to wait for it to stop swinging before you make your line, and you can draw your line along its straight edge, which is much easier.

“I do have a plumb bob and level from about 40 years ago, but I haven’t used it in years,” he adds. If you would prefer to use a spirit level in the way Yair describes, you will need one that has a plumb vial for vertical measurement.

Small and cheap tools like plumb bob and line sets are sometimes overlooked, but they can make a dramatic difference to your DIY projects. For more toolbox inspiration, read our guides to tile spacers and masking tape vs painter’s tape.

The beauty of a multi tool is that you get good value for money. It can tackle a whole host of DIY jobs with a single tool, so no need to splash out on multiple power tools. It's a smart and sensible choice for any DIYer, but even more so for those just getting started.

But it's not just novice DIYers that can benefit from a decent multi tool. Seasoned do-it-yourselfers will find a use for it as well. All you need is the right blades or attachment to tackle the task at hand.

Here, I run the Einhell TP-MG 18 Li BLCordless Multifunctional Tool through a gamut of tests to see just how well it works, and whether it's worth your hard-earned cash.

Where to buy

Specification and features

• Motor: Brushless motor
• Weight: 0.8kg
• Sandpaper size: 93 x 93 x 93mm.
• Angle of oscillation: 3.2 degrees
• No load speed: 11000 - 22000/min
• Oscillating speed: 22000 - 40000/min
• Warranty: 10 years
• Features: 1 x sanding shoe with hook-and-loop fastening, 1 x diamond segment saw blade for tile grouting, 1 x segment saw blade (HSS) for wood, plastic, soft metal, 1 x plunge saw blade (BIM) for metal, 1 x plunge saw blade (HCS) for wood and plastic, 1 x scraper, 9 x sandpapers (3 x P60, 3 x P80, 3 x P120).

First impressions

I say the same thing almost every time, but the excitement of unboxing a power tool for the first time never leaves me. It’s been a while since I’ve had a new multi tool, which added to the excitement, and my interaction with Einhell power tools has always been positive… so far.

First impressions were good; the packaging was recyclable, and there wasn’t much of it. Just enough to protect the tool, along with a simple cardboard box to store the accessories. A QR code on the box redirected to the Einhell website for more info, prices and available accessories. Simple, but effective.

First out of the box were the accessories. Included were blades for wood and metal, a scraper blade, segment (round) saw blades for removing tile grouting and for cutting wood, plastic, and soft metal, and a sanding pad with 9 sandpaper pads in three different grades. Pretty much everything you’ll need to start using the multi tool immediately.

What I did notice before I even lifted the multi tool out of the box was a lack of a carry bag or case. I would have been happy with either. The box will be taking up that mantle for now. More importantly, there’s no battery or charger, so there will be additional costs for those who don’t already own a tool from the Einhell Power X-Change collection, many of which you can find on Amazon.

The unit itself was solid, lightweight and well-balanced. The well-placed rubber grip gave the impression that the Einhell would be secure and comfortable to use. Subtly etched into the grip were the words 'anti-vibration'. This heightened my anticipation and hope that it would work well.

Another feature neatly placed on the top of the tool was a speed dial. This ranged from 1-6. I set it to one to ease myself into using the tool. Keeping it company was a well-placed and sizeable on/off button. Finally, there was the quick-release handle at the front of the tool. I had a quick play with it, and it wasn’t the easiest to use; you've got to put some effort in to get it working. It's worth noting that other brands use different connection methods, I would say some easier than the Einhell. However, once I got used to it, it wasn’t an issue.

Set up

There are pretty much only two steps to setting up a cordless multi tool. Add battery then your preferred blade or attachment and you're ready to go.

If you’re new to using a cordless multi tool, make sure to add the blade or attachment first. You don’t want the tool to burst into life when your hands or any other body part are in the vicinity. It will be painful, I promise you. The quick-release handle is there to enable toolless attachment, but it's not the easiest option I’ve seen for attaching a blade. You need to give the handle some muscle power to get it into the unlock position.

Once you have, adding a blade to the 12-pin tool adapter is straightforward and allows you to choose the position you want. Ideal when tackling harder-to-reach areas. When in position, simply close the quick-release handle to secure it. There is a bit of snap back on the handle, so be careful. However, once I got used to it, it was easy to use.

There is a small metal disk supplied to help hold open back blades and attachments in place. This offers greater compatibility and the option to buy other brands. The only problem I had was that I was convinced that I was going to lose it. Luckily, I haven’t yet.

It's worth noting that the Einhell is incompatible with the Starlock system you get on other tools. But don’t panic, this won’t be an issue for DIYers. And it's easy enough to buy compatible blades and attachments, such as the Original Einhell XL-Plus-CASE 35-Piece Multi-Tool Set from Amazon.

Finally, before I added my 4.0Ah battery, I gave it a full charge to get the most out of the tool. Adding the battery is as simple as it gets. Slide in, and it clicks into place. You’re ready to go.

Performance

The Einhell TP-MG 18 Li BL multi tool comes with a collection of blades and attachments, pretty much something for every DIY job you’ll need a multi tool for.

To kick off, I used the wood/plastic blade to cut through architrave at ground level, ready for new flooring. I started with the speed dial set at one (the lowest level). The Einhell worked effectively, if not efficiently, so I upped the speed dial to three. This cut through the architrave with ease. Upping the speed to six (the highest level) made it even quicker. But assuming this would use more battery power, I was keen to keep it at a mid-range level. It's worth noting that the Einhell isn’t excessively loud for a multi tool, but it's not quiet either.

Next, it was cutting out a few shapes to get a couple of lengths of timber to fit around my side gate lock and ensure my garden fencing fitted well. Again, this was a breeze. Next, I tried it on some plastic plumbing pipe, no problems. A switch to the metal blade saw easily cut through some thin metal sheeting. It took more effort for thicker metal, but in reality, when cutting a lot of metal, you would use a more specialist tool.

For the larger-segment wood saw blade, I cut into a hardwood plank to fit around some pipework. This took more effort, even with the dial set at six, and created a little smoke. However, this would be the same for any multi tool.

This left me with the grout removal blade, scraper and sander. The grout removal blade did its job with no fuss, quickly and neatly removing narrow grout lines. To give the blade a more thorough test, I tried removing mortar ready for repointing. This was a slow process, but again, another tool is better suited to heavier-duty work. In this case I would typically use my angle grinder.

The scraper and sander worked exactly as I expected. I tried it to help remove self-adhesive vinyl planks and paint from door frames and doors, then sanded the floors and frames. Again, this was effective and efficient. What I noticed when tackling a job, whatever the blade or attachment, was how well the anti-vibration feature worked. It was more prominent at the lower levels, but at the top end, it was hardly noticeable, allowing longer working time without feeling the effects.

The last thing to mention is the neat thin LED light on the front. It lights up the blade or attachment well, but there’s no option to switch off. Which means it's always on, even when there’s no need. It’s a small point, but I would have liked the option.

Battery lfe

As with any cordless power tool, battery life is important. No DIYer wants a battery that takes forever to charge, can’t hold its charge or is underpowered. As I already mentioned, this Einhell multi tool doesn’t come with a battery or charger. So, for clarity and context, I am using an Einhell PXC 4.0Ah SEALED battery (available on Amazon), but it will add significantly to the multi tool's cost.

There are other options, such as the Einhell 18V 4.0Ah Plus Lithium-Ion Battery and Charger Set from Amazon. However, if you already own a compatible Einhell power tool, you can ignore this cost.

The official runtime for a 4.0Ah battery (according to their website) is around 68 minutes. So how did this compare with my experience? I'm not sure the battery hit 68 minutes, but it wasn’t far off, so plenty of runtime. I always recommend you have a second battery charged so you can swap when needed. Which, if you did have the same, you’ll have over three hours of runtime, plenty for any DIY tasks you’re tackling.

Once I had drained the battery, it was time to recharge. I used an Einhell Power X-Charger 3A, which conveniently has a charging time overview chart on the back. This indicated 75 minutes for a 4.0Ah battery. My battery took around 70 minutes to fully charge. Good to see accurate timings. A similar charger - the Power X-Fastcharger 4A - is available from the Einhell site for £30. The charger is easy to use with red and green LEDs indicating whether the battery is charging or fully charged. A trio of blue lights - activated by a quick push of a button- lets you know what's happening.

Final verdict

A multi tool is a great addition to a DIYer's toolkit, and I have no hesitation in recommending the Einhell TP-MG 18 Li BL Cordless Multitool. Admittedly, it doesn’t come with a battery or charger, so this will add nearly 50% to the overall cost. Obviously, not an issue if you already own another Einhell tool in the Power X-Change family. But I wouldn’t recommend a single battery for more than one tool. I would invest in at least a second, which would add to the cost again. However, it is ideal if you own other Einhell tools, such as this Einhell TP-CD 18/50 cordless drill that I also tested and found to be a great addition to my tool box.

The tool itself is straightforward to use; however, while the quick-release system does the job, I’ve seen easier-to-use options on some of the other best multi tools. But don’t let this put you off what is a good all-round multi tool.

The anti-vibration setup worked a treat, especially at higher speeds, and the inclusion of blades and attachments means you can tackle the tasks the tool was intended for. There’s little to dislike, though a carry case/bag would have been a simple addition, and apart from a few minor flaws, you are getting a great multi tool.

If you’re a DIYer, you might find some of the best reciprocating saws quite intimidating, due to their extreme power or complicated features. Yet on the other hand, you’ll sometimes find that the most basic models lack the power or quality to excel at chopping or plunge cutting all sorts of materials including wood, metal and plasterboard.

The Worx Nitro WX501 is a compact, cordless model that’s pitched somewhere in-between the two extremes. It’s certainly powerful, with a 20V motor driving its blade at up to 3,000 strokes per minute – but it’s also approachable, with a minimal form factor and simple controls.

It sounds good on paper, but how does the Worx Nitro WX501 perform when faced with wood or metal? I set up a series of DIY tests to find out.

Where to buy the Worx Nitro WX501

Key specifications

• Cordless tool family: Worx PowerShare
• Intended uses include: plunge-cutting; cutting workpieces including metal bars and wooden beams
• Battery capacity: 2.0Ah
• Voltage: 20V
• Blade speed: 0 - 3,000/min
• Stroke length: 26mm
• Weight: 1.8kg

Alongside the tool itself, you get a 2.0Ah lithium-ion battery to power it, and a Worx WA3880 battery charger, both of which can also be used with compatible ‘bare tools’ from the Worx Powershare range. All of the components come with a good-quality hard case for storage and transportation (provided you choose the retailer carefully – some sell the same tool with a soft storage bag).

Last but not least, two reciprocating saw blades are bundled in with the tool. One of these is designed for cutting metal; the other is intended for wood. You can also buy other types of reciprocating saw blades, including these Masonry Reciprocating Saw Blades from Screwfix that can saw through brick and concrete – though I would recommend using these with a contractor-grade reciprocating saw.

How I tested

I reviewed the Worx Nitro WX501 Cordless Brushless Compact Reciprocating Saw by testing it across an appropriate range of tasks, including cutting clean through wood or metal, and plunge-cutting holes in MDF.

1. Cutting timber

I was blown away by the power of the WX501 when I used it to cut various pieces of wood. Running at up to 3,000 strokes per minute, the blade made its way through hardwood and softwood battens in a matter of seconds, producing fairly clean cuts that needed only a little tidying up using a sander. (With that said, you should always cut wood fractionally over the required length when using a reciprocating saw, so that you can adjust the finish without making the piece too short).

It took next to no manual effort to cut wood with this saw, so I could focus on directing the saw blade accurately, while the weight and cutting action of the tool did the hard work. As well as cutting wood to size for woodworking projects, I found that this tool was very useful for cutting scrap wood into pieces to make firewood or kindling.

2. Cutting metal

With its metal-cutting saw blade attached, the WX501 did a good job of cutting through metal tubing. It completed this task quickly, although not as rapidly as it was able to cut through wood, and the maximum cutting capacity is lower (10mm for steel or 15mm for aluminium, versus 80mm for wood).

When cutting any workpiece with the WX501, I would recommend bracing the pivoting shoe at the front of the saw against the workpiece, as this makes it easier to keep everything stable and produce an accurate cut. Secure clamping is very important, and you may need to weight your workbench if it is light, as the action of the saw is very powerful.

3. Plunge-cutting

During my testing, plunge-cutting holes into MDF board proved to be the WX501’s most impressive capability. The saw was able to cut through the material with absolute ease and excellent control, even when I really tested it by cutting gently curved shapes.

I was able to tweak the cutting depth slightly by adjusting the saw’s movable shoe, which would be a handy capability when you’re cutting into a stud wall, for example. As this saw is relatively light, compared to other reciprocating saws, it was easier to control when plunge-cutting from below.

Ease of use

One of the selling points to this reciprocating saw is its compact format, and this does make it easy to hold with one hand around the grip, and the other supporting the tool from underneath. However, it’s still pretty heavy, and there’s not much for your non-trigger hand to grip while supporting the tool from beneath. When you’ve been using it for a longer-duration task, your forearms will know about it.

The saw is activated with a variable speed trigger. Pressing this lightly gives a slow, controlled cutting action, and I found that it was highly responsive when I wanted to press harder for a higher cutting speed. This is the only way to control the cutting speed – there are no selectable gears of the sort you sometimes find on tools like the best cordless drills. You can use the lock button next to the trigger to prevent it from being pressed down inadvertently and activating the saw.

Changing the saw blade is very simple – you just turn the blade release lever, push the blade into the blade clamp slot and allow the release lever to return to its original position, now holding the blade in place.

Battery performance

I was pretty impressed with this saw’s runtime. On a single charge of the 2.0Ah battery, it was able to complete a few hours’ worth of testing across various cutting tasks, as described above. However, I did need to recharge it in order to complete the process, and I believe that DIYers embarking on heftier tasks such as demolition work would benefit from buying a spare battery (available from Worx) to swap in whenever the original battery needs recharging.

The charger couldn’t be much simpler. It’s lightweight and provides just the right level of feedback via its status lights, which tell you when the battery is charging, fully charged, broken or at the wrong temperature for charging (the latter two were never needed during my testing). I was pleased to find that it could charge the 2.0Ah battery within around one hour.

Who should buy it?

I see the WX501 as a tool mainly for DIYers, rather than for professional tradespeople. It’s very handy for a variety of home improvement tasks, from rough-cutting timber and chopping shower rails down to size, to plunge cutting holes in the wall for electrical sockets (provided you know how to avoid cutting into wires!) I’d find it difficult to imagine the DIYer who wouldn’t find plenty of uses for a reciprocating saw – and this one is among the best in its class.

You might also find it useful for outdoor tasks such as cutting up wood for firewood, or cutting pruned tree branches into smaller pieces so that these can fit into the garden waste bin. (I use proper secateurs for the pruning itself, as these can produce cleaner cuts that are healthier for the tree.)

If you have a lot of structural work ahead of you (e.g. cutting through brick), then this saw might just about do the job, but you’d probably be better off choosing a contractor-grade reciprocating saw for tasks of this type – perhaps with corded power.

Final verdict

This is a very good tool for the lighter-duty work that’s typically tackled with a reciprocating saw. If what you need is a saw that will conveniently cut wood and metal, or plunge-cut into relatively soft materials (probably not brick or stone), then the WX501 is a superb option.

I was highly impressed with this saw’s cutting performance across a variety of tests. It was excellent at plunge-cutting, great at cutting wood, and good enough at cutting metal to suit most DIY scenarios. Perhaps best of all, its cutting capabilities are delivered in a compact, uncomplicated format that will help many DIY users get to grips with using a reciprocating saw.

If you’re working on a DIY project where you need to fix an object to a wall, I can guarantee you’ll need to use a Rawlplug to make it the fixing secure. Also known as wall plugs, Rawlplugs are a key component in the fixing process, but you need to choose the right ones for them to be effective.

When drilling into brick or masonry for example, you can’t simply screw straight into the drill hole. The screw simply won’t grip, and the fixing will fail. A Rawlplug will add the holding power needed to support it.

But you still need to choose the appropriate option. Find out what types are available and what will work for your next DIY project.

Rawlplugs, rawl plugs or wall plugs?

If you're wondering why you might hear the term Rawlplugs, rawl plugs and wall plugs in reference to just one type of product, there's a reason why, as Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements explains.

“A rawl plug, properly called a wall plug, is also called a 'Rawlplug' as it's the brand name that has become generically associated with it – a bit like a 'Hoover' is used to describe a vacuum cleaner. It's a small tube made of either plastic or nylon, inserted in a hole that's been drilled in masonry, into which you insert a screw.”

They are typically used in walls to provide a secure fix. "Brick, block, or concrete does not provide sufficient friction on its own for the thread of the screw to grip,” he expands. The plug expands to fit in the hole as the screw is inserted, and this expansion helps create a stronger hold between the screw and the wall.

Types of rawl plug

Rawlplugs are effectively designed the same, with slight variations for different DIY tasks. The key difference is the size. Scott Godfrey, trade consultant for Black Hammer and owner of SG Carpentry, explains further.

“The most common differences are the diameter and length of the plug. A larger diameter plug can generally support heavier loads because it creates a stronger grip inside the wall, and longer plugs are useful when you need extra support or when fixing into softer materials where a deeper anchor is needed,” he says.

“The sizes typically correspond to the diameter of the drill bit,” adds Angelo Patrizi. For example, a 6mm Rawlplug commonly fits a hole drilled with a 6mm bit.

Beyond the standard, there are also specialist plugs designed for different wall types, “Plasterboard fixings, cavity wall plugs and heavy duty masonry plugs all work differently because the materials they grip behave differently,” explains Scott.

What rawl plug colours mean

“The colours are a simple way to identify the size of the plug, although it’s worth remembering that colour coding can vary between brands,” explains Scott Godfrey. “Traditionally, red, brown and yellow plugs are commonly seen in DIY shops, with each colour representing a different diameter.”

Angelo Patrizi explains the common sizes for colours and what screw is needed.

“5mm plugs are yellow and need a no. 6-8 screw, 6mm is red and needs a no. 8-10, 7/8mm is brown and a no. 10-14 is needed. Large or heavy-duty for bigger fixtures are typically grey or blue plugs,” he adds.

Don’t forget to check sizes with the individual retailer before you buy or use though as colours, especially yellow, red and brown, may differ slightly.

Shop these Rawl plugs and tools for DIY projects

How to use a Rawlplug

It's pretty straightforward to use a Rawlplug, but there are a few simple rules to follow.

“To use one correctly, you first need to choose the right plug and screw for the job, then drill a hole that matches the size of the plug," says Scott Godfrey.

“The plug should fit snugly into the hole without being forced in, and it should sit flush with the wall surface,” he adds. Make sure the drilled hole is also deep enough for the plug's length.

A simple tip I use is to line up the Rawlplug alongside the drill bit to be used, add 5mm and mark this by wrapping masking tape around the drill bit

When to use Rawlplugs

Rawlplugs are used to attach items to masonry, typically walls. I use them mainly to put up shelves and hang pictures and hooks, but I have also used them to hang wall cabinets.

But these are not the only jobs where they will be called upon. Angelo Patrizi suggests a few other tasks, including, “hanging curtain rails and mirrors, fixing TV mount brackets and kitchen cabinet mounts, fitting radiators, rain gutter mount brackets and house numbers.”

“They’re particularly useful whenever you need a secure fixing in brick, concrete or plasterboard,” adds Scott Godfrey.

But, one word of warning. Remember, if fixing into plasterboard, Rawlplugs will not work; you will need specialist plasterboard fixings. "A small pack of plasterboard fixings (self-drilling or toggle) are needed for anything not going into masonry," confirms Angelo Patrizi.

For ease of reference, if you're wondering what colour Rawplugs will suit common DIY jobs, Anglo explains.

"Yellow (5mm) is ideal for lightweight fixings like picture hooks and small brackets. Red (6mm) is the most commonly used size, which is good for curtain poles, mirrors, and light shelving. Brown (7/8mm) for heavier shelving, radiators, kitchen units."

“A useful DIY toolbox should therefore include a few common sizes (5mm, 6mm and 8mm plugs are good ones) along with matching screws,” advises Scott.

Rawlplug hacks

A poorly drilled hole can mean a loose-fitting plug. The obvious solution is to drill a new hole nearby, but this isn't always possible.

If you do have a loose fitting, Scott Godfrey says, “don’t just force a larger screw into it and hope for the best If you don’t have the right plug available, it’s usually better to wait and buy the correct fixing, rather than risk damaging the wall or having the item fall.”

However, if you are only putting up a lightweight item, such as a shelf, Angelo Patrizi suggests a few hacks to help. “Take a small piece of insulation tape or even a strip taken from a plastic bag to fill up an undersized plug.”

Another option I’ve used over the years is matches. Break a couple of matches into the hole next to a loose plug in order to increase the friction; it’s an old trick but very effective.

How to remove a Rawlplug

If you’re lucky, you can remove a Rawlplug by hand. However, if this isn’t the case, there are a few options.

A simple way to remove is to get a larger screw and screw into the Rawlplug. Then get a pair of pliers such as these Draper 200mm Combination Pliers from Amazon to pull it out. Alternatively, use the claw on a claw hammer.

If you are struggling to remove a Rawlplug, I simply tap it in further and fill the hole with a decent wall filler. I use a patching plaster such as this Bartoline Patching Plaster from Amazon, as it sets quickly and is easy to rub down. Another option I’ve also used is to drill out the Rawlplug.

Rawl plugs are a key component when hanging items on the wall. Find out how they are used in our how to hang a picture guide. If putting up shelves and you need some inspiration, make sure you check our kitchen shelving ideas and bedroom shelving ideas before you start.

When kicking off a new DIY project, you almost always have to decide between nails or screws as the primary fixing. But which one will you need? Choosing between the two may seem obvious, and in some cases it will, but in other scenarios it won’t be.

For example, what will you need if you’re drilling into brick to put up a shelf? You’ll need a fixing that will bear the load and one that will provide better holding power. In this case, a screw.

However, it's not always that obvious, and there are times when you will need to decide. Based on my years of DIY experience, here's how to make the right choice.

Nails vs screws – how to choose

When it comes to how nails and screws look, it's pretty straightforward and easy to identify which is a nail and which is a screw.

“Nails have smooth shafts and are driven in by hammering," explains explains Tom Armenante, director at GTSE UK. "They rely on friction and wood compression to hold, install fast, and have some flex to absorb shock.

"Screws have a helical thread and are driven in by turning," he continues. "They grip better and resist pulling out, but are more rigid, slower to install, and easy to remove and reuse without damage.”

Rules for choosing

Choosing screws or nails for a project isn’t always easy, but there are some rules and guidelines that can help make the process simpler.

“There isn't a strict rule, but most tradespeople ask a few practical questions to help make their decisions,” shares Tom Armenante, explaining how one of the most important questions is, "will it be load-bearing or structural? If so, go with screws for better holding power," he says. "And, if it might need to come apart in the future, then screws again are the best choice, since they remove cleanly.

“If speed or volume is the priority however, then nails are a good choice, especially for things like first fix stud walls," Tom continues. "For jobs like timber settings where some flex or movement is expected, then nails are also a good choice, since they will flex rather than snap.

"For finishing work like fitting skirting boards and architrave, using nails, usually with a pin nailer, will give a clean finish,” he adds.

Scott Godfrey, trade consultant for Black Hammer and owner of SG Carpentry, notes how, “it's also worth thinking about the material you're fixing into. Plasterboard, decking, kitchen cabinets, shelving and flat pack furniture are generally better suited to screws, while timber framing, roof battens and some types of fencing often rely on nails.”

Also consider the project's weight and whether it is internal or external. “Always consider the weight the fixing needs to support and whether the project is indoors or outdoors," says Scott. “For external work, use corrosion-resistant fixings such as galvanised or stainless steel so they don't rust when exposed to the weather.”

Quick reference guide

Shop these tools for your next project

5 common mistakes DIYers need to avoid

The effects of choosing the wrong fixing may not always be immediately obvious. However, there can be longer-term consequences, explains Tom Armenante.

“Choosing the wrong fixing can compromise both structural integrity and aesthetics, leading to early failure and expensive repairs. In load-bearing applications, using nails instead of screws inevitably causes components to loosen, sag, or fail under weight.

"Meanwhile, using rigid screws where timber needs room to flex causes the wood to split and crack.”

As well as picking nails instead of screws, and vice versa, there are also common mistakes that DIYers often make that it helps to avoid if you want your DIY to stay together.

1. Don’t assume nails and screws are interchangeable

“One of the biggest mistakes is assuming nails and screws are interchangeable (they aren't),” says Scott Godfrey. "Using nails where screws are needed can mean your shelves, brackets or furniture gradually work loose because nails don't provide the same pull-out resistance.

"Or equally, using screws for some structural timber jobs where nails are specified can create problems because certain screws aren't designed to cope with movement in the same way.”

2. Choosing the wrong size

A common mistake is choosing the wrong size. Tom Armenante says, “don’t ignore the length and gauge of the fixing. If they are too short, they won't hold; too long and it can split the material or poke through the other side.”

3. Not choosing the right finish

“People also overlook the importance of using the correct finish,” warns Scott Godfrey. For example, “Standard steel fixings used outside will eventually rust, staining timber and weakening the fixing.” Tom Armenante adds, “A proper corrosion-resistant or stainless option will work better.”

4. Overdriving screws

It's easy to do, but try not to overdrive screws and Tom Armenante reveals why. “Avoid overdriving screws into the material as it could strip the head, sink too deep and crack the material by not stopping at the right torque.”

5. Not pre-drilling when needed

Pre-drilling, especially in wood, can help with installation. “Pre-drilling isn’t always needed," says Tom Armenante, "but with hardwoods or near edges, skipping a pilot hole causes splitting.”

Key sizes and types for a DIYer's toolbox

The types and sizes of nails and screws you will need will depend on what type of DIY projects you regularly tackle. However, as a general rule, Scott Godfrey recommends the following.

“A range of countersunk wood screws in common sizes such as 3.5 x 30 mm, 4 x 40 mm and 5 x 60 mm, as these cover many everyday jobs around the home.”

These Wirox Universal Screws from Amazon are a good choice, and make sure that you have Rawl plugs to match.

However, there are a lot of options to choose from says Scott.“For outdoor work, keep some galvanised or stainless steel wood screws in similar sizes. For nails, a packet of lost-head nails (such as these ForgeFix Lost Head Nails from Amazon), for trim work, oval wire nails for general timber jobs, and galvanised round wire nails for outdoor projects will handle most basic DIY tasks.

“If you regularly work with timber," he adds, "panel pins are also useful for lightweight mouldings and decorative trim.”

Tom Aramante also suggests a few other options. “Plasterboard screws have a finer thread, for stud walls and drywall fixing. The most common size is a 3.5 x 38mm. For outdoor timber, you might need decking screws," he notes. "These are typically corrosion-resistant and have a coarse thread. The common size is a 4.5 x 75mm.”

The tools you’ll need to install nails and screws

There’s a range of tools that you need to install nails and screws, some more obvious than others. “A good quality claw hammer is the most useful tool for nails because it allows you to drive them in and remove them if needed,” says Scott Godfrey.

However, if you are tackling larger construction projects, a nail gun will be useful, he continues. “Nail guns can speed up repetitive work, but they aren't essential for most homeowners. A nail punch (such as this 3Pcs Centre Punch Set from Amazon), is also useful when fitting trim because it allows you to sink the nail head below the surface before filling.”

For screws, the obvious tool is a screwdriver. However, “most DIYers will benefit from a cordless drill driver because it makes driving screws much quicker and less tiring,” advises Scott.

But if you are doing a lot of screw work, an impact driver such as this Ryobi Cordless Impact Driver from Amazon can be advisable to purchase. “Impact drivers are particularly useful for long screws or harder timbers because they provide extra turning force with less effort,” says Scott.

The final piece in the screw puzzle is the drill bit. But make sure you have the right ones for the screw being used, otherwise, you could find yourself in trouble.

“Driver bits must match the screw head correctly," warns Scott. "Using the wrong bit is one of the quickest ways to damage both the screw and the tool.”

A handy addition is a countersink bit, such as this 3 Piece 1/4 Inch Hex Shank Countersink Drill Bit Set from Amazon. These allow screw heads to sit neatly below the timber surface, creating a cleaner, more professional finish.”

Nails and screws are key components of a wide range of DIY projects. Check out our kitchen shelving ideas, how to install coving, and driveway fence ideas that will all need nails or screws.

When removing old paint from woodwork, it's tempting to rush the preparation and cover it with a new coat of paint. Who’s going to know? However, if I plan to stain or varnish the wood, I always make sure it's completely paint-free to achieve the finish and reveal the natural beauty of the wood below. Leaving any paint behind can spoil the appearance.

I could use less preparation, particularly if I'm repainting, but I believe doing the job properly gives better results. I’m probably a bit of a perfectionist, but using the right tools to remove old paint and sand wood guarantees the right finish.

In this guide, I explain what tools I use, how to use them (in the order suggested) and where you can buy them, so that you too can make sure your woodwork is easy to redecorate.

1. Use a heat gun to soften paint

When you have layers of paint to remove, a heat gun like this budget-friendly VonHaus Heat Gun from Amazon can be your best friend. It's a fast, efficient way to soften old paint before it's removed.

It works really well with oil-based paints, and you might read that it doesn’t work as well with water-based paints, but I’ve never had a problem. For thin layers of paint on wood, a sander is often a better choice as it's a one-step process. No need to heat, remove and then sand. Test an area first to determine which is the best approach, as each task is rarely the same.

Using a heat gun is straightforward to use. It will typically have one or two settings - high and low – and nozzles to direct the heat. For removing paint, use the high setting and the surface nozzle (or no nozzle at all). I generally don't use a nozzle for open areas of wood. If using near glass or an area you don’t want heated, use a thin nozzle to concentrate the heat where needed.

Hold the heat gun about 50mm from the surface and turn it on. Hold in position, gently move it back and forth across the area and wait until the paint starts to bubble. Then move on to the next area. As soon as you have heated a decent-sized area – around 200mm – get your scraper (more on this below) to remove the paint and repeat the process until finished.

A word of warning: when putting down the heat gun while removing paint, make sure to place it on a surface that won’t be affected by heat, e.g., wood. Place it on carpet or vinyl flooring, and it can melt a hole in the material (I know I’ve done it). Also, place it in front of you so you can see it. You don't want to accidentally lean on it and burn yourself (I’ve done that as well).

2. Start removing paint with a scraper

A paint scraper is key when removing paint, and there are a few options to choose from. If I’m removing paint from a mainly flat surface like a door, windowsill, wall, or panelling, I like to use a larger paint scraper, like this 50 mm heavy-duty wood scraper from Screwfix.

Simply place the scraper on the heated paint, apply gentle pressure, and drag it to remove the paint. You may need to go back over the area a few times to remove all paint. Make sure that the blade is clean after use. Typically, the paint will fall off the scraper, but occasionally it will need to be removed.

For more intricate/narrower flat areas, you can use a smaller scraper such as this Bahco 625 Pocket Hand Scraper from Amazon.

3. Use a shave hook for scraping curves

A shave hook is a different type of paint scraper. It typically has a triangular head and includes a straight edge, a small straight edge, a curved inset, and a curved edge. It's this combination that helps remove paint from intricate areas. The long shaft and wooden handle help minimise heat transfer.

I use my shave hook to remove paint from architraves, skirting boards, stair bannisters, and hard-to-reach grooves and corners. How you use it depends on what you are working on. The inset curve is ideal for rounded contours, while the point is great for tight corners and 90-degree joins.

However, be careful when working on intricate areas; take your time to ensure the shave hook doesn’t slip and gouge the wood.

4. Introduce wirewool for delicate or difficult paint removal

Wirewool (or metal scourer) is a finishing tool for removing paint. When I can’t quite get into a groove or an intricate curve on a moulding with any of the other tools I have at my disposal, I often revert to using wire wool to remove it (fine grade is good).

It's a little more flexible than sandpaper and is good for just about getting into anywhere. For deeper grooves, I sometimes combine it with the thin edge of a scraper, like this Dekton 2" Professional Scraper from Amazon. This helps to reach further into a groove or crevice.

It's also a good option if you're using a paint stripper. Sandpaper is more prone to clogging quickly, so you need to use more of it. However, when using wirewool (or a metal scourer), you can clean and carry on.

5. Finish off with sandpaper

Sandpaper is the classic finishing tool; whether sanding wood by hand or with one of the best hand sanders, it's the perfect tool for removing any remnants of paint and improving surface adhesion for a coat of paint or varnish.

For flat areas, a random orbital sander works for most surfaces. A detail sander like this BLACK+DECKER 55W Compact Electric Mouse Sander from Amazon is a good choice for getting into 90-degree corners and sanding stair spindles.

For heavy paint removal, start with a coarse sandpaper grade, such as 60 or 80-grit. Then use a finer grit, such as 180 or 220, to finish. Find out more in our sanding wood guide.

6. Unleash paint stripper for intricate areas

I’m not a fan of paint stripper for most paint removal jobs, simply because it slows the removal process and, in many scenarios, doesn’t do a better job than the other tools in this article. Typically, you’ll need to apply and leave for 30 minutes on thin layers of paint before it's effective. For lots of layers, it will need to be left for hours, and in some cases covered.

However, there are times when it can be a sensible choice, typically when removing paint from moulding, or furniture where you want to keep the detail.

To use, apply as instructed, usually with a brush; leave, then remove with a scraper, and wipe clean with white spirit or soapy warm water to remove any residue.

Why removing all paint is a good idea

There are a few reasons why removing all paint from woodwork is a good idea. David Baines, Technical specification manager at Johnstone's Paint, reveals why it's particularly essential if you'll be using a non-paint finish after stripping.

“If the aim is to restore the natural finish or the original look of a surface, any old paint needs removing in order to stain, oil, or varnish the exposed timber correctly. That way, any finish will penetrate evenly and bring out the beauty of the natural grain more clearly," he says.

David also says there's another, more practical reason. “Stripping back to the bare wood also allows you to inspect the surface substrate for any hidden issues such as moisture damage, rotting or repairs like holes or scratches that may need attention.”

The risks of leaving paint in place

Leaving old paint on woodwork is not a smart move as it can cause issues with the new top coat, David continues.

“Any new paint applied over a surface will only be as strong as the layer underneath. If the existing coating has started to peel, flake, blister or crack, applying a fresh coat of paint over the top will only disguise the problem temporarily and in time, the problems will get worse,” he warns.

"Any poorly adhered paint left on a surface could result in newly applied paint also peeling and cracking.”

However, this isn’t the only issue, he continues. “Painting over the top of existing paint also increases the likelihood of an uneven finish, with visible differences in old and new paint coats. These imperfections are often more noticeable when painted with certain types of paint such as modern satin, eggshell, or gloss finishes, which tend to reflect more light.”

And finally, if varnishing or staining wood, any paint left will almost certainly lead to poor adhesion and spoil the finished aesthetic.

FAQs

Do different types of paint require different tools?

It depends, says David Baines, agreeing that, "the most effective paint removal method can vary depending on the type and condition of the existing paint coating."

"Oil-based paints tend to form a harder, more durable film so may require more thorough removal tools such as heat guns, specialist paint strippers or more intensive sanding down," he advises.

"Water-based paints are often softer in texture, therefore generally easier to remove. Therefore, rubbing or sanding is usually recommended."

Are there any alternatives you can use to remove paint?

The selection of tools already mentioned in this article should be more than enough to get the job done. I've never needed any other tools to remove paint.

However, there are a couple of eco-friendly alternatives available. Vinegar is often touted as a paint remover and is useful for cleaning away paint residue left after scraping. However, it’s not a viable alternative to heat guns, scrapers and sandpaper.

For outdoor jobs where old, flaking paint needs to be removed, a pressure washer is a quick and effective method. However, be careful as the water jet can damage the surface of more delicate wood.

Once you have removed any paint from wood and prepped the surface, you need to take the next steps. Check out our guides on painting skirting boards, how to paint a panel door, and painting wooden doors to make the most of your freshly prepared surfaces.

Choosing the right board for a DIY project is typically a toss-up between OSB and plywood. Both have a lot to offer, are readily available and offer strength, versatility, and value.

While there is crossover in that both are suitable for some home renovation or DIY projects, there is typically a choice to be made between the two.

OSB and plywood have distinct characteristics, so it’s important that you choose the right one. Make the wrong choice, and you could be revisiting and fixing a lot sooner than you should be. No one wants that, and this guide will ensure you make the right choice.

How do OSB and plywood differ?

OSB and plywood are popular options for DIY projects and do share similarities, but the main difference is in how they area made. Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb, explains. “OSB (Oriented Strand Board) is an engineered wood panel that is made from compressed layers of wood strands bonded with adhesives.”

"Plywood on the other hand is a flat sheet of wood veneers that have been bonded together," he continues, "with the grain of each layer rotated up to 90° relative to the previous one.”

The difference in their make-up and construction is the main reason why you could choose one over the other for your DIY projects, as we'll come on to explain.

How to choose between OSB and plywood

Martin Dooley, a carpentry specialist and the founder of MD Carpentry Workshop, offers a quick summary of how to choose which board you need. "If the board is going to be hidden and you need a strong, budget-friendly sheet, OSB is often the sensible choice.

"However, if the board will be visible, painted, stained or turned into furniture or shelving, plywood is usually worth the extra money because it's easier to finish and looks better," he advises.

“Start by asking whether the board will be seen and what sort of wear it's going to get, and the right choice usually becomes fairly obvious," he adds.

Shop tools and boards for your next DIY project

Pros and cons of OSB vs plywood

Understanding the strengths and drawbacks of each type of board can help you figure out which is more suitable for your intended use. Here we break down the pros and cons of OSB vs plywood using some key characteristics:

1. Strength

“The structure of the wood strands in OSB gives it high strength and a good load-bearing capability along the length of a panel," notes Mark Irving, although plywood is equally as strong. "The pattern creates nearly equal strength in all directions, as the crossing veneers in plywood make it very rigid and capable of spanning gaps without sagging," he notes.

That said, while OSB has high strength, it can struggle with mis-handling. “The unprotected edges of OSB can be easily damaged," explains Mark, especially during transportation or installation.

2. Resistance to water

“Modern adhesives have made OSB highly resistant to delamination or deterioration when exposed to moisture for short amounts of time," says Mark Irving. "But, although it can be water resistant, it is not waterproof. Ideally, OSB should still be kept dry," he notes.

Martin Dooley adds, “if the edges are left exposed to a lot of moisture for long periods of time, they can swell.” This affects the board integrity.

Compared with OSB, plywood is less susceptible to moisture, but for higher-moisture areas, marine plywood is better. Plywood can also be prone to delamination, especially when exposed to excessive amounts of moisture; which means it can begin to separate.

3. Appearance

Martin Dooley says of OSB, “the downside is that it's not the prettiest board in the world, as the surface is rougher. It is less suitable where appearance matters,” he adds.

Whereas on the other hand, the smooth finish of plywood is a big plus. Higher grades have fewer natural defects, and there are also different wood finishes to choose from.

4. Weight

Knowing the weight of each item also matters as it might make a difference on where you want to use it and be carrying the boards.

OSB is typically heavier than standard plywood, making it more difficult to transport and handle. As such, plywood can be more suitable if you need to move several boards upstairs to a loft conversion or bedroom for example.

5. Sustainability

In the sustainability stakes, OSB is usually considered the more eco-friendly of the two, as well as usingsmaller, faster-growing trees for its timber, Mark Irving notes how, “OSB efficiently uses raw materials, produces a low amount of waste and can potentially incorporate recycled content.”

Plywood on the other hand uses timber that relies on trees that take longer to mature than OSB.

Costs and sizes for OSB and plywood

Like for like on size and thickness, OSB is typically cheaper than plywood, as Mark Irving confirms. “OSB tends to be cheaper than plywood, and can cost between 15% and 30% less for the same sheet size and thickness.

As an example, this 2440mm x 1220mm x 12mm Hardwood Plywood from B&Q is currently £27. This comparable OSB3 Board from B&Q is currently £22. A difference of around 20%, which can make a big difference on larger projects.

A common size for both OSB and plywood is 2440mm x 1220mm, though both are available in smaller sizes. In relation to the thickness, Mark says, “OSB is available in sizes ranging from 9mm to 40mm, with thicker sizes usually made for heavy-duty uses and special applications. Plywood is usually available in thicknesses of 3mm to 25mm, with thicker panels being better for structural applications."

Beyond size and thickness, OSB and plywood are available in different grades. OSB is rated from 1 - 4, while plywood is graded from Class 1 - 3 for the performance of standard plywood. There is also marine plywood, which is bonded to stricter standards and is more resistant to moisture.

OSB3 is usually a popular choice. Mark describes it as, “load-bearing OSB for use in humid conditions." Effectively, this means most DIY projects. Plywood is also graded on appearance. AB plywood is the highest grade in terms of appearance, with CC grade being the lowest.

When buying OSB or plywood, check the grade and rating to ensure it meets the needs of your project. As a general rule, what you buy in hardware stores is fine for general DIY projects. However, if you need something specialist, make sure to check before purchasing.

Where to use OSB

OSB is a popular choice for many DIY projects where appearance is not critical. This makes it a good choice for the following:

• Subflooring – OSB is the better choice for subflooring when constructing timber frames for example. It's cheaper and more flexible, and it can be covered with more aesthetically pleasing flooring.
• Wall and roof sheathing – Both OSB and plywood are acceptable, but Mark Irving recommends OSB. “OSB tends to perform better, provided that you use a moisture-resistant grade and avoid direct exposure to water.” For example, if tiling on wood, i.e, OSB, you need to add a backer board like this HardieBacker Backerboard from B&Q.
• Shed floor and roof – Martin Dooley says, “for sheds, I'd happily use OSB. It's strong, practical and extremely cost-effective, particularly for the roof and floor because nobody will see it.” It is commonly used in cheaper sheds.

If you are putting together a new shed using OSB, I recommend treating the outside-facing surfaces of it before you start building. A sealer like this Siramico Coatings Liquid Rubber Roof Coating from Amazon will help protect against moisture and prolong your shed's lifespan. Don't forget to seal the edges too.

Where to use plywood

Plywood is a popular choice for many DIY projects where appearance is important, and can be used as an alternative to OSB in some cases. This makes it ideal for the following:

• Furniture and shelving – Plywood's smooth appearance makes it an ideal choice for furniture and shelving. Mark Irving says, “it can be practical and cost-effective when building furniture, and can be used to make cabinet carcasses in kitchens and bedrooms.”
• Walls and floors – It can be used for walls on timber frames and exterior walls, as long as the right type of plywood is used. For subflooring, it can be an alternative to OSB. Ceilings are also a choice, offering a natural look or a painted finish.
• Bathrooms and kitchens – You can use plywood in high-moisture areas if it is treated/sealed and will be covered, for example with tiles. Alternatively, you can use marine-grade plywood. However, marine plywood is more expensive than standard plywood.

If you are using plywood for your DIY projects, you’ll need to know how to treat it to achieve the best finish. Our guides on painting plywood and waterproofing plywood will help prolong its life. Alternatively, you can use it as a plasterboard alternative for an interior finish.

There's no doubt that water pouring from your washing machine's detergent tray can be worrying. It can quickly flood your floor and put your washing machine out of action, leaving you without your much-needed laundry facilities.

But what causes it and is it always easy to fix? I was really hoping my problem would be straightforward, and simply be a case of cleaning the right parts. Unfortunately, it wasn't quite that simple, but it still was a job I could fix myself.

So, before you start looking at how long washing machines last and invest in a new one, or pay for expensive plumber call-out charges, follow the steps I took to resolve my leak and get my machine working like new.

Reasons why your washing machine detergent tray is leaking

The first thing you need to do is find out why water is leaking from the detergent tray. As you might expect, there can be a number of reasons, so it is often a process of elimination. I typically start with the simple, less time-consuming option if I’m unsure.

1. Blocked detergent drawer or housing

Ian Palmer-Smith, appliance repair expert at Domestic & General, reveals one of the most common causes: “A blocked detergent drawer or housing is a common cause of overflow, typically due to a build-up of detergent, fabric softener, or mould restricting water flow.”

I took my detergent tray out (a simple job we can all do) to see if it made any difference – but it didn't.

Water was still pouring out, but now I could see more of what was happening with the detergent tray removed.

My top tip at this stage? Make sure you have someone with you who can switch off the washing machine at the power point to immediately stop the water flow. Also, keep a bath towel nearby to stop any stray water from dripping onto the floor.

2. Blocked dispenser hose

Now I could see what was actually happening inside, I could see water flowing from the top of the tray, as it should. However, after a few seconds, the drain to the drum filled, and water once again flowed from the tray area onto the floor. Once again, make sure you have someone next to the power point for a quick switch off.

The fact the leak continued suggested the problem with my machine was down to a blockage somewhere else (and which I subsequently discovered to be in the dispenser hose).

Ian Palmer-Smith confirms this is another common problem. “A blocked or partially blocked dispenser hose can prevent water from draining properly into the drum, causing it to back-up and spill.”

3. Less common problems

There are also a few other issues that can cause water to spill out from the detergent tray, says Ian Palmer-Smith.

“Overuse of detergent or the use of an incorrect type, such as non-HE detergent (a non high energy product is more suited for older top-loading machines), in modern machines can also contribute to the issue by creating excessive suds, leading to foam overflow from the tray.”

“Other contributing factors include low water pressure or uneven water flow, which can prevent the drawer from flushing cleanly and cause water to spill forward," he adds, "as well as clogged spray jets that misdirect water towards the front of the dispenser.”

Shop these tools to fix washing machine tray issues

Cleaning the dispenser tray

If you have identified the leak is down to a dirty dispenser tray, cleaning it is an easy job and starts with you removing the detergent drawer and drawer compartment. Take a look at your instruction manual if it doesn't come out easily as there may be a certain method to follow for your particular machine.

Michael Forbes, lead product trainer at AEG, shares what to do next. “Warm water and a soft brush are usually enough to clear away detergent build-up.” To help keep it free from limescale, he also suggests you, "regularly run a maintenance wash using a dedicated washing machine cleaner, particularly in hard water areas.”

Keen to prevent the problem reoccurring? “Using the correct amount of detergent for the size of the load and your local water hardness is an important part of keeping your washing machine running efficiently,” advises Michael.

Even if the problem lies elsewhere, it's worth doing this job as well as any others you need to do to stop the leak.

Removing and cleaning a blocked dispenser hose

Before I started removing parts, I thought I'd try pouring hot water down the dispenser hose, combined with pushing a flexible pipe cleaner along the inside. This may work for you, but didn't for me as the blockage turned out to be caused by bits of foam lodged inside, so I had no choice but to access the innards of the washing machine.

Here's the steps I took to remove, clean and re-attach the hose.

1. Unplug from power and move

The first step was to switch off and unplug the washing machine before I did anything else. Safety first. Most washing machines also don’t sit out in the open, so, like me, you’ll need to drag it out to access the top cover. Instead of stretching the drain hose and risking damage, I simply put the end of mine into a bucket so the water didn't go on the floor.

2. Remove the top

The top or lid of a washing machine is typically held in place by a couple of Philips screws at the back of the machine. Undo these with an appropriate screwdriver and place them in a container. Slide off the top to see inside the machine.

3. Access the dispenser hose

To access the dispenser hose, you’ll need to undo the screws that hold the detergent tray in place (again, place the screws in the container you have to hand for this reason).

Now manoeuvre the tray to access the dispenser hose. You might also need to remove the water pipes on the back of the tray. I didn’t have to do this, but if you do, the holding clips are typically removed by pushing them together by hand.

4. Remove the dispenser hose

My dispenser hose is attached to the underside of the detergent tray so I unclipped it, pulled off the hose and moved the tray out of the way. You'll then need to remove the bottom of the dispenser hose. I needed a small spanner to loosen the clip holding it in place. Put the clip with the screws you've put to one side so you don't lose it.

Another quick tip is that if a clip is difficult to squeeze together, use a pair of pliers to make the job easier.

5. Clean hose and replace

Next, take the hose and remove any debris by hand. Mine was full of bits from foam padding that had broken up in the wash. However, generally, the blockage will be from a buildup of detergent. If this is the case, squeeze the hose to break up the detergent, then rinse through with warm water until it runs clear.

Now comes the fun part. Replace the dispenser hose and make sure any clips are in place. One option I often do is to take pictures of the removal and unclipping process to help your remember how the parts were fitted.

Also remember that he dispenser hose needs to be secure when you re-attach it otherwise, you'll be coming back to do the job again. Make sure you attach any pipes to the back of the detergent tray and put the tray back in place. Finally, secure the detergent tray and lid with the screws you put to one side.

Before you start the machine, make sure to check and clean the washing machine filter, as this could well have debris inside as well – mine did.

Where do you keep your washing machine? Could it be time to move it? Check out our utility rooms guide and small utility room ideas to make the most of your space. Or, how about an upstairs laundry room? It's becoming more popular with home renovators and it's easy to understand why once you look into it.

A cordless drill and DIY go hand in hand, but there will be a time when even the best cordless drill simply doesn’t have the power to cope with a project. That’s when it's time to call in an SDS drill. This boasts what is known as a Slotted Drive System (hence the SDS moniker), which works differently from a standard cordless/corded drill with a grip chuck.

To keep it simple, it uses a different type of drill bit that gives the drill more hammer action. Making it ideal for heavy-duty tasks that a standard drill can’t handle.

Like most Black + Decker tools, this SDS hammer drill is aimed at DIYers and not professionals. So how would it tackle the DIY jobs I had lined up? Read on to find out.

Specification

• Motor: 650W
• Impact energy: 1.4J
• Cord length: 2 metres
• Weight: 2.3kg
• Chuck capacity: 2mm-13mm
• Chuck type: SDS+
• Guarantee: 2 years
• Features: 1 x keyed chuck, 8mm SDS-PLUS bit, 1 x 6mm SDS-PLUS bit, 1 x adjustable and removable side handle, Depth stop, 3 x drilling and hammer modes.

First impressions

The unboxing of a power tool is always a highlight for me, but it didn’t take long with this Black & Decker BEHS01 hammer drill. The drill itself sits in the box, no plastic wrap, along with a handle, gauge stop and a small cardboard box containing a drill chuck and SDS+ drill bits. From an environmental perspective (which, in my opinion, matters), there is little packaging to get rid of, and what little there is is 100% recyclable and chlorine-free.

The lack of a hard case or carry case is a minus point. All my other Black & Decker tools have always come with at least a carry bag. I’ve noted that some sellers show the drill with a carry case, but I’ve not seen one that actually comes with one. A shame as I would have liked a hard carry case.

The Black & Decker BEHS01 is weighty, but in SDS drill terms, it is relatively lightweight. It is well-balanced and has a soft-grip handle that holds the drill firmly in the hand. Other notable features are the thick 2m cord (generally means more power), the mode selector that locks into place (I liked that), a reverse switch, and a small mystery button, which I suspected would be a power lock button, but we will find out later. Overall, I liked what I saw.

Set up

A corded drill like the Black & Decker BEHS01, means you don’t have to worry about charging up a battery before you can get started. One less step in the setup process. And, as it comes with a UK plug you can plug it in straight away, hit the trigger, feel the power, and appreciate the noise.

Like most drills, there are three modes on the Black & Decker BEHS01. You’ve got drill, drill and hammer and hammer. You simply need to choose the one most appropriate for the job. The selector is a decent size, and operation is easy. A push button releases the selector and locks it in place when you reach your chosen mode. For me, I liked the added extra peace of mind.

Elsewhere, the keyless chuck is a breeze to use. Pull back the sleeve, insert your bit, and you are ready to go. It's the same process to release it. And let's not forget the side handle included to help steady the drill. This fits behind the chuck and can be placed in your favoured position thanks to the inbuilt notches. A small plastic nut tightens the handle in position, ready for action.

Finally, an interesting addition was the chuck adaptor for use with standard drill bits. I can see that Black + Decker are trying to add value and purpose, but I’ve already got my newly acquired Einhell cordless drill that does what I want so wasn't sure if this was necessary.

It does mean you can get extra power without having to splash out on SDS-friendly drill bits, but it looked awkward, and I just wasn’t sure about it.

Performance

The Black + Decker BEHS01 came with a couple of 6mm and 8mm SDS drill bits, which immediately limited how I could use it. So I invested in this 3-piece Erbauer SDS Plus Shank Chisel Set from Screwfix to test the Black + Decker BEHS01 more thoroughly. This included a 250 mm point chisel and 2 x flat chisels (20 x 250 mm and 40 x 250 mm).

To kick off testing, I decided to use my new chisel bits to break up some large blocks of concrete that I had dug out of the ground a while ago. I originally tried smashing them up with a lump hammer and a cold chisel, but without much success.

The mystery button turned out to be a lock button, which I decided to call into action straightaway. The hammer mode and the smaller chisel did a good job of breaking off chunks. It still took me a good 15 minutes to break up one large piece of concrete, but with no need to worry about swapping batteries, the drill didn’t miss a beat. A return visit a couple of days later got the same results on the remaining blocks.

Next, it was time to try the supplied drill bits. First up was drilling into concrete, which it handled with ease. Next, it was drilling into exterior brickwork for hooks, an absolute breeze. Then it was indoors to drill into walls in order to put up some shelf brackets; it couldn’t have been easier. All the masonry I tried, the drill powered through.

Next, it was back to the chisels and tile removal. I had two layers of tile on tile to tackle and the first layer came off pretty easily, but the original layer (stuck to the wall) was more challenging. But again, the Black + Decker BEHS01 was up to the task.

The final test was using the keyed chuck with standard drill bits. While it looked and felt awkward, (and I’m not a fan of keyed chucks, especially when I’ve lost the key), it worked fine and gave extra power where needed. In some cases, too much power compared to my trusty cordless drill.

The one issue I had with the Black + Decker BEHS01 was the attachable side handle. It was easy to fit, but no matter how much I tightened it, it still slipped off when tackling tougher tasks. For lighter tasks, I did however get to use the handy depth gauge that slips into the handle.

Who shoud buy it?

The Black + Decker BEHS01 is a great choice for DIYers who need extra power for projects that their cordless drill simply can’t handle. It's easy to struggle through using a cordless drill when it doesn’t quite have the power you need, but this isn’t good for your cordless drill and will shorten its working life.

An SDS type of drill is a smart addition for DIYers, and the Black + Decker BEHS01 is an affordable, easy-to-use tool that provides enough power to tackle most home DIY and home renovation projects. All you need to do is fit your chosen SDS bit, choose your mode and hit the power trigger.

Final verdict

I’d definitely recommend the Black & Decker BEHS01 to any DIYer who likes tackling lightweight demolition and drilling masonry jobs, and needs a bit more power than their favourite cordless drill offers. This is a great starting point for anyone who doesn’t own an SDS drill, or an occasional DIYer who wants to replace an old, worn-out drill.

The addition of the keyed chuck seems like an odd choice, but it works and lets your SDS drill double as an everyday drill that uses standard drill bits. Personally, I prefer to use my Einhell cordless drill for standard drilling and an SDS drill when a project calls for the extra power.

I would have liked to see at least a couple of chisel bits and a carry bag or hard case included, especially as it is aimed at DIYers. I think this would have made it the complete package. However, these are small points as you are getting an affordable SDS drill that will get stuff done, in fact, almost anything a DIYer will tackle.

Whenever you buy one of the best cordless drills, you’re often also paying for the potential to use the same battery and charger with other tools from the maker’s range. This Makita bundle gets you off to a flying start, giving you the DTD157 impact driver along with the DHP490 combi drill in a two-piece combo kit.

The two tools offer wide-ranging drilling and driving capabilities. With the DHP490 combi drill, you get drill, hammer drill and screwdriver modes, plus two gears, a variable speed trigger and torque up to 65Nm. Meanwhile, the DTD157 impact driver has a hex. 1/4" drive shank and can turn a wide range of machine screws and bolts, with hard impact and soft impact modes ranging up to a mighty 140Nm of torque. Both tools boast a brushless motor and Makita’s famously on-point ergonomics.

In theory, this two-in-one combo should therefore offer the best value for money, and strong performance of both tools. As an experienced DIYer, I put them both through the ropes to see if the investment was worth it.

Where to buy the Makita DLX2539ST 2-Piece Combo Kit LXT

Key specifications

• Cordless tool family: Makita LXT
• Intended uses include: drilling wood, plastic, metal and masonry; driving screws and lugs
• Battery capacity: 5.0Ah (x2)
• Voltage: 18V
• Drill speed: 0 - 500 / 1,900 min⁻¹
• Impact driver torque: 140Nm (max)

What's included

• Makita DHP490 cordless combi drill
• Makita DTD157 impact driver
• 2 x 18V, 5.0Ah lithium-ion batteries
• DC18SD battery charger
• Hard carry case

Both tools included are 18V models from Makita’s LXT range, and they can also be bought individually. The Makita DHP490Z 18V Cordless Brushless Combi Drill costs £68.50 from B&Q as a bare unit without the battery, while the Makita Impact Driver DTD157Z, also from B&Q and again as a bare unit, costs £62.99.

However, buying both tools together as the DLX2539ST kit could represent the best value, as also included in the set are two 18V, 5.0Ah lithium-ion batteries, the Makita Battery Charger LXT DC18SD (which can also charge 14.4V Makita batteries), and a slimline hardcase to store and carry the set.

How I tested

I tested the Makita DLX2539ST 2-Piece Combo Kit LXT by using it for an appropriate selection of DIY tasks, including drilling into brick and installing fixings.

1. Hammer-drilling holes in brick

Among the dozens of cordless combi drills I’ve tested, the Makita DHP490 from this kit is one of the very best at drilling into hard, dense materials like brick and breeze blocks. I’ve used many different models to drill holes in my home’s walls, which are built from very hard brick, and this has proven difficult with some drills. The DHP490 took around 30 seconds to perform the same job that demanded several minutes of struggle with competing models. My only gripe was that the chuck struggled to keep a secure hold of certain narrow drill bits.

You can see the sort of project that’s easily achievable with this drill in my article on how to hang shelves.

2. Driving screws

Both of these tools can drive screws. The DHP490 combi drill performs the task perfectly well, with its choice of 20 torque settings, two gears and the variable speed trigger collectively giving you excellent control over the force applied to the screw.

But it’s the DTD157 impact driver that really excels in this area. With a hex screwdriver bit securely installed in the collar, it turns fastenings with impressive power. I found this tool extremely helpful when working with long or stubborn screws that had proven impossible for me to turn using a screwdriver or combi drill. Just take care not to apply excessive force, as this can strip the drive on a screw – especially if the screw is relatively low-quality.

3. Drilling into wood

This is another job for the DHP490 cordless drill. I found that it worked quickly and powerfully when drilling into test pieces of hardwood and engineered board, boring neat holes with minimal effort. Where holes needed to be especially neat, I used the gear selector to choose the lower rev range for highly controlled drilling.

Ease of use

Even though this power tool kit is aimed at the more experienced end of the DIY market, it’s no more difficult to use than an equivalent set for occasional users or beginners. The controls, such as the direction selectors on both tools, and the mode selection collar on the cordless drill, work fluidly and intuitively. Charging the batteries is as easy as slotting one onto the charger.

If you’re new to using impact drivers, then you might face a slight learning curve with this component of the Makita kit. An impact driver typically has higher torque than a comparable cordless drill, which means drill bits and screws are subjected to stronger force. That’s generally a good thing, but it means you should use high-quality screws and extras such as this Makita E-12011 10 Piece Impact Black Bit Set from Amazon to minimise the risk of these components breaking, or the screws being stripped. In routine use, the DTD157 impact driver is even simpler to use than the DHP490 combi drill.

Battery performance

The Makita DLX2539ST kit never let me down in terms of battery life. Between the two included batteries you have ten amp-hours of work potential, which proved more than enough to get me through a day of DIY. I found that the included charger could recharge one of these hefty batteries within less than two hours, so there’s scope to power one of them back up during a mid-renovation meal break.

As with all lithium-ion batteries, the ones supplied with this kit will noticeably degrade after a number of years (or after sustained heavy use). You’ll maximise their good performance by following good battery maintenance practices, such as keeping the batteries charged to a moderate level and storing them at room temperature.

Who should buy it?

Clearly, this twin-set of tools is most relevant to users who will make good use of an impact driver, as well as a cordless combi drill. If you’re a keen DIYer and you often need to drive large or awkward screws, then using the impact driver will make this easier.

With this Makita bundle, you can work quickly by using the drill to make holes, and the impact driver to install fastenings into them. As there are two batteries included, you won’t even need to switch this component between actions (unless one battery is recharging).

On the other hand, I wouldn’t recommend this kit to casual DIYers who would rarely use the impact driver. If this sounds like you, then you might be better off buying the Makita DHP490SFX2 18V 1 x 3.0Ah Li-Ion LXT Brushless Cordless Combi Drill & Drill Bit Set from Screwfix that comes with the same drill, plus a high quality set of drill bits and other accessories in place of the impact driver.

Final verdict

True to form, Makita has delivered an impressive and capable power tool kit. The combi drill and the impact driver are both excellent tools in their own right, and when used together during complicated DIY projects they can bring a welcome boost in speed and convenience. Battery life and recharging are excellent, and the hard carry case is a smart and practical solution for keeping the set in good and orderly condition.

I have only a few gripes to mention – a drill chuck that’s not ideal for the narrowest drill bits, and a price that will put off some occasional DIYers – but neither is a deal breaker. The Makita DLX2539ST 2-Piece Combo Kit LXT is another powerful piece of evidence that Makita is the ultimate ‘prosumer’ brand for DIYers who are taking their home renovations seriously.

When it's time to hang that designer wallpaper you’ve had your eye on for ages, there’s guaranteed to be one obstacle with the potential to spoil a professional-looking finish – a power socket – and usually more than one.

Every home has them, so there’s no getting away from the fact that you will need to cut into your precious wallpaper when trying to paper around them.

To ensure a successful cut, you will need the right wallpaper tools and techniques, and a slow, methodical approach. Trying to rush through the process with a blunt tool will only lead to rough cuts, unsightly gaps, and the distinct possibility you’ll have to start over again. Follow this guide to make sure that doesn't happen.

Tools you’ll need to wallpaper around sockets

The right tools are essential for success when wallpapering around sockets. Nischal Pomu, Director at Platinum Paints, points out the two main factors you need to take into account.

"The main thing is to have sharp tools and take your time rather than trying to force cuts quickly,” he says, listing the following essential tools:

• Sharp snap knife - try this wolfcraft Metal Snap-Off Blade Knife from Amazon
• Wallpaper scissors - try these Harris Seriously Good Paperhanging Scissors from Amazon
• Screwdrivers
• Wallpaper smoother
• Seam roller – like this Stanley Dynagrip Soft Seam Roller from Amazon
• Spirit level or laser level
• Steel trimming edge/wallpaper guide
• Clean cloth and sponge – try the Spontex Decorators Sponge from Amazon
• Good quality adhesive suitable for the wallpaper type

How to wallpaper around sockets

1. Turn off the electricity and loosen faceplate

The key step is to switch off the electricity before you start any work. Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb, says. “I would recommend using a voltage tester afterwards to fully ensure that the socket is dead.” Alternatively, plug in a phone charger or a lamp to check if the socket is live.

Once you are sure the power is no longer live, “carefully unscrew the socket so that it is a few millimetres away from the wall," says Mark.

2. Hang the wallpaper

Now you can start to hang wallpaper. I always make sure the strip of wallpaper fully covers a socket to ensure a clean finish. Measure up before you start wallpapering to ensure you get a drop in the right place. Paste the paper, or wall, and hang. “Smooth out the wallpaper as normal," says Mark, "and allow it to fully cover the socket’s area.”

3. Locate socket and cut wallpaper

Once the paper is hung, the next step is to locate the socket. “Gently feel for the edges of the socket through the wallpaper,” says Mark, making sure you locate the middle of the socket and its corners.

Using a sharp knife, "cut an X shape diagonally from corner to corner across the centre of the socket," he suggests.

Alternatively, cut from the middle to the edges using wallpaper scissors. This is less likely to mark the face of the socket and might be a good idea if you have a metallic or painted finish.

4. Trim the excess

With your cuts in place, you will have four flaps of wallpaper. Get a pair of wallpaper scissors and start trimming. “Carefully trim the flaps back towards the edge of the socket, making sure to leave enough paper to neatly tuck behind the faceplate," says Mark, recommending you leave around 5mm to be sure.

5. Finish up

With the wallpaper trimmed, it's time to finish the job. “Use a wallpaper smoother to flatten the wallpaper around the socket," says Mark, "making sure to remove any air bubbles.”

However, for safety reasons, be careful not to squeeze any excess paste behind the faceplate. Give it a wipe if needed, re-tighten the faceplate and wipe down the wall and socket with a dry microfibre cloth such as these MR.SIGA Microfiber Cleaning Cloths from Amazon. Check there’s no excess paste left before you consider using the socket again.

Common mistakes to avoid when wallpapering around sockets

1. Overcutting

There is nothing more annoying than cutting away too much wallpaper and having to start again. "The biggest mistake DIYers make is overcutting too early," warns Nischal Pomu. "If you remove too much wallpaper around the socket, gaps can remain visible permanently. It’s always better to trim smaller amounts gradually," he says to prevent it from happening.

2. Using blunt blades

“I would recommend always using a sharp blade, as even the highest quality wallpaper can snag or tear if the knife isn’t incredibly sharp," advises Mark Irving. “Change the blade every few cuts, if possible," he adds, "to ensure that you are accurate with every try.”

3. Using stiff wallpaper

If you are working in awkward areas with stiff wallpaper, it's more prone to tearing, which can be hard to hide. A simple trick is to use a hairdryer, suggests Mark Irving, “Warming up any stiff wallpaper using a hairdryer can help the paper to flex around any awkward spaces.”

4. Ending up with uneven patterns

Hanging patterned wallpaper adds another level of difficulty to wallpapering around a socket. Get it wrong, and you’ll waste wallpaper and take more time. “For patterned wallpaper, it helps to dry-position the sheet beforehand so important parts of the pattern do not end awkwardly through sockets or light switches,” advises Nischal Pomu. This will help the wallpaper line up with adjacent sheets.

FAQs

Should I cover sockets before wallpapering?

“If the electricity has been safely isolated and the faceplate slightly loosened, you generally don’t need to fully wrap or cover the socket itself,” says Nischal Pomu.

However, it's never a bad idea to protect sockets against paste or moisture, especially if you're using traditional wallpaper paste. “Although a small amount of paste isn’t particularly a problem," says Mark Irving, "any moisture that gets into the plug holes or sockets could be very dangerous.”

There are a couple of options you can use to protect a socket. “Use painter’s tape over any openings," says Mark, noting how, "it is also possible to use cling film lightly wrapped around the socket, which will help to keep everything protected.”

Another way to prevent paste from seeping behind a loose faceplate, says Mark, :"is to carefully use a microfibre cloth behind a loose faceplate to catch any excess.”

The most simple and preventative method is to avoid overloading the wallpaper with paste around sockets in the first place. ”Instead, use a thin coat to reduce any mess," he advises.

How long before I can switch the electricity back on?

Electrical outlets and moisture don’t mix well. However, Nischal Pomu says you can switch the electricity back on almost immediately. “In most cases, once the wallpaper has been fitted, trimmed cleanly, and any obvious moisture around the socket has been wiped away properly, the electricity can usually be switched back on safely.

“You generally do not need to wait for the wallpaper paste to fully dry overnight before restoring power," he adds, "providing the socket area itself is clean, dry, and not saturated with adhesive.”

However, if there is excessive paste or moisture around the socket, it's best to leave it for a few hours. “If there’s any uncertainty around moisture entering the electrical fitting, it’s always safer to allow additional drying time or seek advice from a qualified electrician before switching the power back on," confirms Nischal.

Personally, I leave it for at least three or four hours to be safe. Even if I’ve covered a socket, I remove the covering and wipe it dry, but still leave it for an hour to be on the safe side.

If you don’t need the socket because you aren't living in your property while renovating or extending it, you can of course leave it longer. I always err on the side of caution when working with electricity, after having a few unwanted incidents.

When wallpapering around sockets, you need to get your cuts right. But getting this wrong isn’t the only wallpapering mistakes you can make. Try these wallpaper hacks to help avoid issues when wallpapering your home.

If you're asking should you wallpaper over damp, the most obvious and simple answer is no. Why would you? If you have a recurring damp issue, then wallpapering over it will rarely solve the problem. However, it's not always that straightforward.

Covering a constant source of damp will of course only make the problem worse. However, if you have dealt with the issue, or it's only an infrequent visitor and you know why, then knowing how to wallpaper the damp area correctly could be successful.

Here, we explore the reasons for wallpapering over damp areas, and the specialist products and tools you’ll need to ensure your efforts aren't in vain.

Why you shouldn't wallpaper over damp

Wallpapering directly over damp surfaces is generally not recommended, as Nischal Pomu, director at Platinum Paints, notes. “In most cases, I would say no, not until the cause of the damp has been properly identified and resolved. Wallpapering over active damp usually only hides the issue temporarily.”

George Edwards, managing director of Timberwise, shares the issues that can arise if you do wallpaper over damp.

“You will be masking a problem that will only get worse," he warns. “Moisture will be trapped behind the paper, and mould will grow in the dark between the paper and the walls.” This can lead to serious issues, especially if the damp is constant.

“Within weeks or months, you’ll see patches bleeding through and may notice a musty smell,” explains George. "You will have to strip the damaged wallpaper, and you will be back to square one, except it will be worse.”

“Any ongoing rising damp, penetrating damp, or constant moisture problems should always be fixed before decorating,” agrees Nischal.

Reasons why wallpapering over damp could be an option

Once damp has seeped into walls and ceilings, it can cause cracks, defects and discolouration, and this may make wallpapering seem like a good idea rather than painting over damp.

“A lot of homeowners wallpaper over damp mainly for cosmetic reasons," agrees Nischal Pomu. "Damp staining, hairline cracking, and uneven surfaces can make a room look tired very quickly, so wallpaper is sometimes seen as a quicker way to improve appearance without major repair work.”

However, wallpapering over damp is typically a temporary fix while the issue is being investigated. “The problem is that wallpaper rarely solves damp itself; it usually only hides the symptoms for a period of time," notes Nischal.

That said, “there are situations where wallpapering can still work once the wall has stabilised and dried out,” he continues. “For example, an old chimney breast may leave historic staining after the original issue has already been repaired. In those cases, after proper stain blocking and preparation, wallpaper can sometimes be used successfully.”

Wallpapering can also be an inexpensive option compared to removing any plaster, dealing with the issue and getting the wall/ceiling re-plastered. Keeping your house temperature at the right level can also be a way to help prevent the damp returning once the main problem has been resolved.

Shop these tools to wallpaper over damp

Best wallpaper for damp walls

If you have got walls that have suffered from damp, or are currently suffering from it, you certainly don’t want to use standard wallpaper when papering over damp. Alisdair Simpson, managing director at Retford Wallcoverings Limited explains why.

“Standard pulp-based wallpapers are generally unsuitable for damp-affected walls, as continual moisture exposure can cause the material to break down, often leading to staining, mould growth and adhesion failure.”

If you are going to wallpaper over damp areas, you will need to use a specific type of wallpaper to address the issue. “Specialist systems such as Wallrock Dampstop Thermic are designed to help block the appearance of penetrating damp and associated staining," explains Alisdair, "whilst creating a durable surface suitable for further decoration using paste-the-wall lining papers on top.

“When using Wallrock Dampstop Thermic, it is particularly important that dimensionally stable PTW wallcoverings are used, as traditional wallpapers may be more susceptible to movement and adhesion issues over the non-porous metallic surface.”

However, once the Wallrock system is in place, “standard wallpaper can be used if you’ve covered the area with damp-proof foil and/or thermal lining paper,” says Alasdair.

Wallpapering over damp with Wallrock Dampstop

If you are going to wallpaper over damp with the Wallrock Dampstop system, there is a specific process to follow advises Alisdair Simpson.

“Wallrock Dampstop Thermic is applied directly to the wall using Wallrock Dampstop Thermic Adhesive, with the grey polypropylene surface facing the wall.” But before you start, "the wall should first be cleaned, repaired and primed where necessary," notes Alisdair.

“Once dry, the metallic surface can either be left exposed to help reflect heat back into the room – making it particularly useful behind radiators,” he shares. However, the more common option is to cover it.

“Overhang with dimensionally stable PTW lining papers such as this Wallrock Fibreliner from Amazon, insulating wallcoverings such as this Wallrock Thermal Liner from Amazon, or paste the wall decorative wallpaper,” suggests Alasdair.

A key component of a successful job is the right adhesive. “For best performance, Wallrock Dampstop Thermic Adhesive should continue to be used for all subsequent papers applied on top," he notes.

However, “as with any damp-related issue, the underlying cause of the moisture should always be properly identified and resolved alongside any cosmetic treatment,” Alisdair concludes.

FAQs

Will PVA seal a damp wall?

PVA glue is often suggested as a cost-effective sealant, but in damp conditions, it's not a wise idea, explains Nischal Pomu. “PVA is not really designed to solve damp problems. In fact, sealing moisture into a wall can sometimes make issues worse over time because the wall cannot breathe properly.”

“PVA breaks down on contact with damp, becomes sticky and then causes plaster and paint to fail,” adds George Edwards.

Can I use a dehumidifier to help remove damp from walls?

The best dehumidifiers can help combat damp confirms Nischal Pomu. “A dehumidifier can definitely help reduce moisture levels within a room and speed up drying conditions, especially after condensation or minor humidity-related issues.”

However, they are not the solution to persistent damp problems, he continues. “If the damp is being caused by an ongoing issue such as rising damp, leaking gutters, failed pointing, plumbing leaks, or penetrating moisture, a dehumidifier alone will not fully solve the problem.

“It may improve the symptoms temporarily, but the source still needs to be repaired properly for a long-term solution," says Nischal.

Damp can strike anywhere and spoil walls and ceilings in any room. Make sure you know exactly how to treat damp in older houses before you start on any wallpapering project. Then, once the correct base layer has been applied, make sure you avoid these wallpapering mistakes when applying the top and final wallpaper layer.

Despite its uninspiring name and haphazard appearance, there is much more to OSB than meets the eye. It is in fact a versatile timber-based board suitable for a wide range of DIY and home renovation projects.

It's commonly used as an alternative to plywood and, in some cases, as a plasterboard alternative, adding an industrial aesthetic to interior design projects. While it could be argued that it's less visually appealing, its composition still makes it a very attractive option for many DIY builds where aesthetics aren’t the number one priority.

Here, we delve into where it can be used, its benefits and drawbacks, and how much you can expect to pay.

What does OSB stand for?

OSB stands for Oriented Strand Board. Paul Kerr, building specialist at Beatsons, explains its makeup. “It's basically a wood panel made by heat pressing wood strands with glue.”

Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb, explains what makes it appropriate for use in a variety of DIY projects. “The boards are strong and durable, which means they are commonly used for construction projects.”

Shop OSB board and tools to protect it

Popular uses for OSB

OSB is a popular choice for a lot of DIY and home renovation projects, but it's typically used inside the home explains Mark Irving. “OSB is most commonly used in internal construction projects, as it is incredibly strong and durable. Typically, it will be used for wall sheathing, roofing, loft boarding and site hoarding.

“OSB can also be used for subfloors, partition walls, and shelving" he adds, "as it provides a solid, stable surface.”

OSB is rarely used for work outside the home notes Paul Kerr, “as the boards are usually not weatherproof, and unless treated specifically, should not be used for external projects.”

If however the boards are protected or treated, they can be used on a range of projects, continues Mark. “OSB can be suitable for large-scale building projects such as timber-frame construction, sheds and DIY renovations.”

And, while it's often covered over, it can also be left exposed says Paul. “You sometimes see the odd interior design project using OSB for rustic shelving and tables,” he agrees. It’s also sometimes left bare on walls to create a more industrial aesthetic.

Pros and cons of OSB

Mark Irving reveals the key benefits and drawbacks of OSB:

What sizes does it come in and how much does OSB cost?

As well as its strength and durability, there’s another reason why it's so attractive for DIYers and that's the cost. However, the price is determined by several factors, including size, thickness, and grade.

“OSB is one of the more affordable options for construction, with prices ranging between £15 and £35 per sheet,” says Mark Irving.

“The industry standard is 2400mm x 1200mm, and the thickness varies from 9mm up to 18mm," expands Paul Kerr. “The thinnest OSBs usually start from around £10, and usually don't sell for more than £25.”

As an example of price, this OSB 3 OSB 2440mm x 1220mm x 9mm from B&Q sells for just under £20. The smallest size sells for around £11. This 18mm OSB 3 OSB 2440mm x 1220mm x 18mm from B&Q sells for £24.

The cost of OSB is also why it's considered an attractive alternative to plywood in certain situations, continues Mark.

“Typically, OSB is cheaper, which makes it the ideal choice for structural applications where the appearance of the project is less important than the budget or the performance.“

“It's usually about 20% cheaper than a plywood board," adds Paul, "which is the reason why it's taken over as the most popular board for internal framing work.”

FAQs

Should I use nails or screws to fit OSB?

Both nails and screws can be used to install OSB. Which one you use can depend on the project. If installing OSB on internal walls, ceilings, and floors, screws are a popular choice because they are much easier to remove if you need to replace any OSB. Screws will also pull OSB tight against any frame and hold well.

These Single Thread Countersunk Pozi Screws from Toolstation will do the job. The screw length should be approximately twice the OSB thickness. If you are using 18mm OSB, 40mm or 60mm screws will suffice.

Nails are quicker to install, especially with a nail gun, and are often used for fixing to exterior framing as they offer more give.

If using nails, galvanised or stainless-steel ring-shank nails are recommended. Galvanised nails such as these Tacwise Extra Galvanised Framing Nails from Amazon are good for general DIY projects, as long as they aren’t regularly exposed to moisture.

Can I paint or tile directly onto OSB?

Yes to painting, no to tiling.

OSB is porous, which means it absorbs a lot of liquid. If you are going to paint OSB, you will need to start with a primer/sealer, such as this Zinsser B-I-N from Screwfix, to seal the surface and create a stable base for subsequent coats of paint.

When it comes to tiling, it's important to know that the board will absorb the moisture if you apply the tile adhesive directly to the board, causing it to fail. Tiles can fall off walls or start to shift and crack. However, it can be used as a substrate for tiles, provided you install a cement backer board (such as this HardieBacker 6mm Backerboard from B&Q) over the OSB.

You’ll also need to make sure that the OSB is secure and doesn’t flex. This is more applicable to floors than walls or ceilings. If it does, you’ll end up with adhesion issues.

How long does OSB last?

It depends very much on its usage. If installed correctly and protected, e.g., with wall sheathing, it can last for 20+ years. However, if left unprotected and exposed, it will depend on the environment. Internally, it can last for years, as long as it is not exposed to moisture.

If used externally and left exposed to the elements, OSB will be lucky to last a year. However, if well protected, with a sealant such as Siramico Coatings Liquid Rubber Roof Coating from Amazon, it can easily last five years. To extend its lifespan, make sure to seal the edges and reapply any sealant/paint every 3-5 years.

OSB is a multi-talented board; not only can it be used on its own, but it is also part of SIPs (structural insulated panels), which are a popular product for building extensions and homes.

Is skimming over wallpaper wise? While it might not always seem like the most obvious choice, and sometimes it's not, remember that with any DIY or home improvement project, there’s rarely just one perfect solution. Sometimes, skimming over wallpaper really can be the best option.

However, getting your preparation correct is crucial to success. Skip past this stage, and it's almost pointless plastering a wall. The plaster will fail to adhere to the surface, and it won’t be long before it starts to crack and fall away from the wall or ceiling.

Here, the pros reveal when it's a wise choice to skim over wallpaper, and how to prep well to ensure your efforts aren't in vain.

Should you skim over wallpaper?

The simple answer is you can do it, but it's rarely the recommended option. It's more of a last resort.

Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements, shares his thoughts. “You can, but honestly, I wouldn’t recommend it most of the time. After 15 years doing this kind of work, I’ve seen people try it again and again – and I’ve seen it fail just as often.

“Plaster requires a stable, porous surface to adhere properly, which wallpaper doesn’t provide," he explains. This means a poor skim coat can lead to more work later. “If it’s not done correctly, you might have to redo everything in six months," warns Angelo.

Shop these tools for skimming over wallpaper

Reasons when skimming over wallpaper is a good idea

While skimming over wallpaper isn’t a first choice, there are reasons why you might need to. “If you’ve got only one layer of paper, it’s stuck down well, and the edges aren’t lifting, and if the customer’s desperate for a quick fix, skimming over wallpaper can make sense,” says Angelo Patrizi, also citing the following additional reasons why you might find it a suitable option.

• To keep the wall intact – “Usually it’s about what’s underneath," says Angelo. "In older homes, the wallpaper sometimes holds the wall together, and stripping it can turn into a nightmare."
• To get rid of textures and imperfections – Skimming over wallpaper can also saves the hassle of removing textured wallpaper and treating any imperfections in a wall. Prep properly, and all these issues can disappear behind a skim of plaster.
• It can be quicker and easier – If you have stubborn wallpaper that will take a lot of steaming and scraping to remove the wallpaper, then a skim coat is a much quicker and easier alternative.

Can I skim over any type of wallpaper?

Certain types of wallpaper work much better than others for being hidden underneath a skim coat. “Heavy lining paper is easiest as it gives a decent grip for the plaster. Standard printed wallpaper works if it’s properly glued down,” shares Angelo Patrizi.

However, other types of wallpaper are to be avoided, he warns. “Vinyl wallpaper is a lost cause; plaster just won’t stick to its non-porous surface. Anaglypta or any heavy textured wallpaper – forget it. The texture shows through, adhesion is unreliable, and the finished look is awful once painted.”

Steps for prepping wallpaper for skimming

If you decide to go ahead and skim over wallpaper, you need to get your preparation right. The more time spent on preparation, the better the outcome. Scott Godfrey, construction trade consultant for Black Hammer, shares where to start.

“Start by proving the wallpaper is genuinely sound. Pick an inconspicuous corner or seam and try to lift it. If it wants to come away with light effort, it needs stripping rather than skimming,” he says.

However, if it is a suitable candidate for skimming. Follow these steps for the best end result.

1. Secure loose sections

“Walk the wall and press along joints and overlaps," says Scott. "Any loose seam should be re-adhered and flattened before going further. Next, cut out any blisters and soft bubbles back to firm edges so you're not trapping a void under plaster.”

2. Clean surface

Next you need to ensure the surface is completely clean. “Get rid of any surface contamination like grease or polish residue with a suitable degreaser and allow it to dry," advises Scott. "Lightly sand the surface to knock back any sheen and high spots, as a slightly dulled surface is easier to bond to than a slick one.”

3. Prime surface

This is the key step to providing a proper bonding surface so the plaster does not soak in, re-wet the paste, or slide off.

“Use a problem-surface sealer or grit-bonding primer (such as this Sika Febond Blue Grit Plasterers Grip Coat from Screwfix) that is rated for difficult backgrounds like wallpaper," explains Scott. "The aim is to lock down the paper face and paste, and also give the skim coat a consistent key.”

4. Add skim coat

After priming, you then need to reinforce any weak lines. "Bed scrim tape over wallpaper seams and any cracks in the substrate that are visible or suspected" recommends Scott, "then apply plaster in two thin coats, rather than trying to cover everything in one heavy pass.

“Keeping coats tight reduces the amount of water sitting on the wall and reduces the load while the plaster is green, which is when failure often starts,” he explains.

To apply the skim coat, use a textured roller, such as the ROLLINGDOG 9 Inch Drywall Skimming Roller from Amazon, and a skimming blade.

5 . Dry naturally

“Finally, allow steady drying with gentle ventilation rather than forcing heat," advises Scott. "Rapid drying can encourage cracking, especially where wallpaper joints sit beneath the finish,” he warns.

Following this final step is important if you want to ensure a secure finish of skim to wallpaper.

FAQs

Will it be as good a finish as skimming a bare wall?

“It will never be as stable as skimming over a properly prepped wall," says Angelo Patrizi, "but if you do everything right, it can last years. However, it’s always weaker than starting afresh.”

Walls aren’t the only surface where you can skim over wallpaper; wallpapered ceilings can be tackled in the same way, but proceed with caution, says Angelo.

“Ceilings are a whole different story; if the bond fails there, gravity takes over, and you end up with a disaster," he warns. “I’m much more cautious about skimming ceilings than walls. On walls, you’ve got a little more wiggle room.

“Any movement or damp issue behind the skim on walls or ceilings will cause trouble sooner or later,” he adds, so it's vital to make sure any prep is done thoroughly.

What can go wrong?

In the short term, the skim can start to fail almost immediately, shares Angelo Patrizi. “The usual problem is the skim coming away from the wallpaper as it dries, because the paper shifted or wasn’t stuck down properly.” This can be dangerous and messy, particularly on a skimmed ceiling.

“Ceilings are risky; sections can fall, and that’s a nightmare to clean up," advises Angelo, adding the other issues that can occur include, “seeing bubbles appear from trapped moisture, and hollow spots where the plaster never got a good grip.”

Skimming can also trap moisture, leading to long-term issues, including damp patches that can cause mould growth and staining. Eventually, this can lead to plaster failure.

“If you ever need to redo the wall, you're also dealing with a fused mess of plaster and paper," says Angelo. "It’s much harder to strip back. Skipping steps at the start usually means triple the work later,” he concludes.

Skimming over wallpaper will leave you with a smooth, smart wall, ideal for a variety of decorating options, but you will still need to prep the plaster before painting or re-wallpapering. Check our guides on wallpapering over new plaster and painting new plaster to get it right.

When you enter a colour drenched room, you’ll know about it, as the walls, ceiling, woodwork and perhaps other features will all be painted in the same hue. For immersive impact, this decorating technique is a popular paint trend and one that stands the test of time.

Whether you’ve visited a stately home with a colour drenched interior, or you’re aware of the cost and effort savings that come with this technique, you may be curious about how to colour drench a room in your own home. After all, as well as simplifying painting, there’s also a design incentive for colour drenching. When done effectively in a suitable space, this technique can add character, impact, and a point of distinction from the rest of the property.

If you’re in need of guidance on how to colour drench your space, find out how I colour drenched my spare room, along with the products I used to achieve the look.

Things to consider before you start

Naturally, the key consideration before colour-drenching a room is deciding which colour you’ll paint it. A light or moderately light shade of paint can make a room feel airy and spacious, while darker tones are often cosy, or even dramatic.

“Colour drenching is one of the most liberating decorating techniques because it simplifies the process,” says Lauren Shaw, head of marketing for DIY at Harris. “Working with a single colour across all surfaces – including walls, ceiling, woodwork, skirting and radiators – removes many of the usual headaches around cutting in between contrasting areas."

However, choosing the right paint colour is key. “Test your colour on every surface before committing,”advises Lauren. “Paint behaves differently on a ceiling versus a flat wall, and versus a primed door, and a shade can look very different once it’s on all surfaces. So, always test samples in situ, in both natural and artificial light.”

You might also consider including a few pops of a different colour in the space using the 'peek-a-boo' paint trend. This arguably detracts a little from the colour drench effect, but in my case, we thought that it broke up the look of the space nicely. Leaning into a contrast colour, we had our radiator powder-coated yellow at a local motorcycle respraying shop (some of these businesses will paint all sorts of metal objects).

It’s also well worth mulling over whether colour drenching is the right approach to decorating a particular room, as it may suit some spaces better than others. “Colour drenching is more powerful in smaller or awkward spaces, like hallways, cloakrooms and compact bedrooms,” Lauren advises.

Patrick O’Donnell, a brand ambassador for Farrow & Ball, recommends using colour drenching in spaces that are rich in architectural detail. “Colour drenching can be a useful tool when your room has a lot of decorative embellishments such as plasterwork detailing or panelling on walls,” he says. “It allows these details to register beautifully, without the need to pick them out in a separate colour to enhance them.”

What I used to colour drench my spare room

How to colour-drench a room: step-by-step

1. Select a colour drench-suitable paint

“One area where colour drenching does require extra care is paint finish selection,” says Lauren Shaw. “Using a single flat emulsion on every surface is one approach and works well for a solid, matte look. But for woodwork and high-traffic areas, you may prefer to introduce a slightly different sheen – eggshell or satin – to add durability and a subtle texture, while keeping the colour consistent.”

For our project, we used Farrow & Ball’s ‘Arsenic’ paint colour in a ‘Dead Flat’ finish, which is suitable for coating a wide range of surfaces including walls, woodwork and radiators. This helped to create a consistent look, while minimising cost and hassle.

2. Prep the walls and ceiling with undercoat

Apply one or two coats of primer to the walls and ceilings. If you’re painting over fresh plaster, you might need to decant some of the primer into a bucket and water it down slightly for the first application. This creates a ‘mist coat’ that should adhere successfully to ‘thirsty’ plaster.

Some modern paints are self-priming. If you’re using a self-priming paint to create the final look of your colour-drenched room, you might be able to skip this step.

3. Prep and undercoat the woodwork

First, sand the woodwork throughout the room – including skirting boards and architraves – as this will help paint adhere to the wood. Apply knotting solution to any knots in the wood (this limits sap bleed), and use wood filler to fill any gaps or blemishes.

Using a tube of caulk and a skeleton gun, caulk along edges of woodwork where it meets a wall or ceiling. Remove excess caulk with damp cloth while you work (and before the caulk sets).

Finally, undercoat the woodwork as required. Protect your floor using painter’s tape and/or dust sheets, and try not to overload your paintbrush.

Products to prepare your room for colour drenching

4. Paint the room with your top colour

It’s then time to bring your colour-drenched vision to life with your top colour. Begin with the corners of the room where walls and ceiling meet, then paint the flat expanses.

“We’d always recommend starting with painting the ceiling, moving to the walls and finishing with woodwork and any smaller details,” says Lauren Shaw. “This way, any paint spatter or drips are painted over as you work down the room.” As you can see in the photos, we used paintbrushes as we like a brushed finish in our house, but you could use a roller to speed up the process.

Use painter’s tape to avoid lapping paint onto protruding features such as plug sockets, switches and light fittings, and take care over painting the detail on woodwork, as this can easily become hard to see in a colour-drenched room. For this, use a finer paintbrush, and avoid loading the bristles with too much paint.

FAQs

Is colour drenching a traditional technique?

“Colour drenching has had an editorial drive for the last three years in the interiors press, but versions of ‘colour drenching’ have been used since the 18th century,” says Patrick O’Donnell.

“Back then, great houses would often paint large halls in versions of stone shades creating very subtle differences, where now, due to the variety of colours available, any colour can be used.”

The term ‘colour drenching’ originated much more recently. Some publications have stated that the term was first used in 2022, but Google Trends data shows that people were researching colour drenching as early as 2021.

Is colour drenching just a trend?

There’s no doubt that colour drenching has been especially popular in recent years. Some homeowners might fairly wonder whether this will turn out to be a short-lived fad, or an approach which stands the test of time.

“Remember, colour drenching as we now call it is an interior design trend, and trends do pass, so think about why you want to do it,” says Patrick O’Donnell. “It does ultimately add a simplicity to a scheme, and also it doesn’t have to be in a strong colour – colour drenching can also be very beautiful in off-whites and neutrals.”

Some would say that colour drenching is a passing fancy, while others might argue that the technique’s centuries-long history suggests otherwise. What really matters is how well the colour drenching fits the room, and how well a colour-drenched space suits your home.

Still need to brush up on your painting and decorating? Read our guides on how to paint over lime plaster, tips for painting skirting boards and sanding walls before painting.

If you're renovating a compact room, colour, storage and lighting will probably demand your attention before tiles do. But the choice of tile, and specifically how it's laid, can do more for a room's proportions than almost any of those decisions.

The advice you'll most commonly encounter – use large tiles, keep it light, stick to neutrals – isn't wrong. But it barely scratches the surface of what tile choice can actually do. The variables that really determine how generous a space feels are pattern direction, grout density, and the relationship between floors and walls.

We asked two tile designers to go beyond the basics and reveal which tile patterns work hardest in a small space, which ones to avoid, and where the conventional wisdom breaks down.

It's all about the grout lines

"It comes down to grout lines more than anything else," says Damla Turgut, founder and creative director of Otto Tiles. "Large format tiles across walls and floors can help create the illusion of space because there are fewer grout lines breaking up the surface. This reduces visual clutter and allows the eye to move more continuously across the room, rather than constantly stopping and starting between individual tiles."

Maria D Arráez, director at Tile of Spain UK, agrees, adding: "Large-format tiles laid in an unfussy, continuous pattern create a sense of openness. They help visual flow and draw the eye through the space, rather than interrupting it."

The reverse is equally true. Very small format tiles have the opposite effect, and Damla cautions against coin-shaped mosaic tiles or small checkerboard designs in compact rooms.

"The combination of bold pattern repetition and excessive grout lines can make a room feel visually fragmented and overly busy," she warns. The exception being something like traditional zellige, where tiles sit together with minimal grout lines, giving you smaller scale and texture without the same visual noise.

How the direction you lay tiles affects the size of a room

"The direction of your tiles has a huge psychological impact," explains Damla Turgut. "Running a pattern towards a window naturally pulls the eye towards the light source, which can elongate a room and make it feel more open. Vertical layouts can exaggerate ceiling height, while horizontal lines can visually widen narrow spaces."

Linear formats do particularly heavy lifting here. Striped or stacked layouts, alongside elongated Kit Kat tiles, draw the eye upwards or outwards, depending on the effect you're after, while a traditional offset brick pattern laid horizontally can visually widen a room. Chevron and herringbone work similarly, the direction of the lay determining whether the room feels taller or wider.

Even the smallest decisions make a measurable difference. Laying rectangular tiles lengthways through a corridor, rather than across it, can completely shift its proportions.

"People often underestimate how much tile orientation affects spatial perception," Damla says, "but it's one of the most effective tools available when working with smaller rooms."

Shop for tiles for smaller rooms

Why using the same tones and tile on floors and walls makes a room look bigger

One of the most consistently effective techniques in a small room is eliminating the visual break between floor and wall. When different materials or colours meet at that junction, the eye registers the room's true edges. Remove that contrast, and the room reads as much larger than it is.

When choosing tiles for a small bathroom, "wrapping the same tile across floors and walls can blur boundaries and make the room feel much larger because the eye isn't constantly stopping and starting between surfaces," says Damla Turgut. And Maria D Arráez extends this to internal thresholds too. "Run floor tiles seamlessly into walk-in shower areas or onto walls," she advises, "as this helps blur the boundary and makes smaller rooms feel more expansive".

Can dark tiles make a room look bigger?

"Colour and pattern go hand in hand, so it's vital to consider both when choosing tiles," says Maria D Arráez. "Softer, more tonal palettes reflect the light better and help create a welcoming, airy feel, especially when paired with a complementary grout colour." But she is clear that bold colour is far from off the table.

"An earthy palette of rich greens, terracottas and deep blues can work beautifully in small rooms when used consistently. Cocooning a small space in a darker colour can actually make it feel bigger, as the enveloping effect feels intentional rather than overwhelming."

The key, she adds, is harmony: the tile finish, grout and surrounding materials need to work together rather than compete. Damla Turgut takes a similar view on finish, noting that deeper tones with reflective surfaces can create a genuine sense of depth and atmosphere in a low-ceilinged room, particularly when paired with good lighting. "Smaller spaces don't always need to feel minimal or white to feel expansive," she says – a useful reminder that pale and plain is a choice, not a rule.

The rooms where standard rules don't apply

Pair these plain and patterned tiles together

Every renovator eventually has a room that refuses to behave like the others. Whether it's a narrow hallway or a low-ceilinged bathroom, these are also the spaces where the most interesting decisions get made.

Damla Turgut's instinct is to lean into the character of the room rather than fight it. In a narrow hallway, for instance, she would embrace a strong directional tile pattern rather than try to disguise the proportions as, "it creates real impact rather than fighting against them."

And for rooms with decorative tiles on the floor, she makes the case for keeping the walls relatively calm. "A decorative motif can help ground the scheme and set the tone for the interior," she says. "If the walls and ceiling are colour-capped, or kept relatively neutral, it allows the eye to move more naturally around the space without interruption. That balance can make a smaller room feel cohesive and larger."

Of all the individual tips and techniques, Damla's overarching point is perhaps the most useful to take away.

"Scale, layout and grout all work together," she says. "It's rarely one single factor that changes how spacious a room feels." Tile pattern is a design tool, not just a decorative choice – and the better you understand each variable, the more effectively you can use them.

The principles covered here apply to any room in the home. Whether you're choosing bedroom floor tiles or living room tiles, the same thinking around pattern direction, grout density and scale will help any space feel larger and more considered.

Robot vacuum and mop technology has taken a major leap in recent years, with brands competing on suction power, navigation and automated cleaning systems.

I own a range of models, but the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete Robot Vacuum Cleaner (available from Curry's) is meant to stand out from the crowd with stronger suction, extended mop reach and improved obstacle handling.

I put it through real-world testing to see how it performs in a typical home environment and whether it really stacks up against the best on the market.

Design, specs and key features

The MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete is positioned as a high-end robot vacuum and mop with a focus on deep cleaning and edge coverage.

It features a high suction system rated up to around 28,000Pa, placing it among the strongest on the market and ahead of many competitors in its class. For comparison, models like the eufy Omni C28 (which I also tested) typically sit around 15,000Pa, while Roborock and Ecovacs' flagship units often range between 7,000–12,000Pa.

A key differentiator is its extendable mop arm system, which actively pushes outward during cleaning to reach edges and corners. This is something most circular robot vacuums struggle with due to their fixed round mop footprints.

The Z60 Ultra Roller Complete includes a full self-maintaining docking station handling dust emptying, mop washing, drying and water refilling.

A nice added feature was that it also came with replacement dust bags, mop pads, cleaning solution, filters and rollers, reducing early running costs compared with many rivals where consumables often need replacing within months.

Cleaning performance and real-world testing

I tested the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete on a range of floors and I have to say it delivered strong results, with deep cleaning performance that was noticeably more effective than its competitors.

It handled dust, fine debris, and pet hair effectively, and the mop system provided consistent water distribution without obvious streaking.

However, where it stood out most was edge and corner cleaning. The extendable mop arms allowed it to reach into areas that circular systems typically miss, giving a more complete clean along walls and furniture edges compared with standard robotic mops.

In testing on thick black carpet and hallway transitions, the vacuum demonstrated strong adaptability across different floor types and obstacles. It is capable of climbing thresholds of around 4.5cm, with manufacturer claims suggesting up to 8cm in multi-step configurations, placing it well above many competing robot vacuums.

This makes it particularly effective in homes with mixed flooring and higher doorway transitions, where many circular robot vacuums can struggle or become stuck.

That said, cleaning time could be slow. A single 10m² room on deep clean mode took up to 30 minutes, particularly when the robot was performing repeated scanning passes or re-checking layout data.

Navigation, limitations and usability issues

Despite its strong cleaning ability, navigation is where the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete shows its weaknesses.

In testing, it frequently bumped into objects and occasionally struggled with tight spaces, with wheel entrapment happening more often than expected for a premium model. This is less common in systems such as Roborock Qrevo (available on Amazon) and Ecovacs' Deebot X11 (also on Amazon), which typically use more advanced obstacle avoidance.

It also had a tendency to re-clean areas unnecessarily, even outside of deep clean mode, which increased total cleaning time and reduced efficiency in smaller spaces.

Mapping and scanning were also slow, especially in unfamiliar environments, making initial setup and first runs noticeably longer than rival systems. Battery drain was also significant under high-power or deep clean modes, meaning it performed best in open-plan layouts where it could return to its dock more easily.

Is the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete the best robot vacuum cleaner?

This model delivers strong deep cleaning performance, impressive edge coverage and one of the most complete automation packages currently available on the market.

Its extendable mop system and high suction power give it a clear advantage over circular rivals in detailed cleaning tasks, particularly along edges and hard-to-reach areas.

However, its navigation inconsistencies, occasional object collisions and slow cleaning cycles mean it is not the most efficient option for every home. While it performs best in open-plan spaces where it can operate continuously from its dock, it may feel less refined in cluttered or complex environments.

Overall, the MOVA Z60 Ultra Roller Complete Robot Vacuum Cleaner is a powerful cleaning system that competes strongly at the top end of the market, but whether it is the “best” depends on whether you prioritise deep cleaning power over speed and navigation precision.

Found this helpful? You may also want to read our buying guide on the best vacuum cleaners for builder's dust or our review of the Henry HVR160.

Tiling around a toilet isn’t easy. The curves and bends provide a challenge for any DIYer. Get it wrong, and you will have to break out a new tile and start over. Or you could be spending forever removing tiny slivers of tile to get a good fit.

Whether you are laying floor tiles, wall tiles or using peel-and-stick tiles, the principles remain very much the same. But the techniques to achieve the curve and fit you need can differ depending on different factors.

Here, I explain the three steps you need to follow and the different methods you can use to try and achieve the perfect fit when cutting tiles around your toilet.

Step one: marking the curve

Cutting curves in a tile needs to be done accurately in order to ensure a good fit, and it all starts with marking out the curve correctly

These are the four tried and tested methods I've tried and tested.

1. Create a cardboard template

Creating a template is an old-school method, but it works well. However, you need to be patient to get the best results. Stephen Russell, independent tiler of Ashley Cross Tiling, says, “use a piece of cardboard to mark the curve and cut to shape. Don’t rush the process. If you do, you might need to start again.”

First, place the tile onto the cardboard, mark it with a pencil and then cut the cardboard with large wallpaper scissors. Alternatively, you can use a sharp steel snap-off knife, such as this Wolfcraft Metal Snap-Off Blade Knife from Amazon.

Now measure from the edge of the tile you are laying next to the toilet or object. Start at one end of the tile, take measurements every 50mm, and mark them on the template. This gives you a rough outline of the curve.

Next, make a cut on the template from the edge to be removed, just past the marks you made previously. Do this every 10mm. You’ll now have a set of strands that are flexible. Place the template where the tile is going to go, and don’t forget the gap for the grout if using stone or ceramic tiles.

Finally, press around the area (I use the end of a pencil) where the template meets the curve to create a crisp crease. Mark the shape with a pencil, pick up the template and cut along the mark. Put the template in place and check that it matches up as expected. If too tight to the curve, trim and check again. When happy, transfer to the tile.

An alternative is to use construction paper; the process is the same, but the material is usually slightly easier to cut. This method works a treat as long as you take your time. And don’t forget the grout gap.

2. Use a contour gauge

A contour gauge, such as this Dodowin contour gauge profile tool from Amazon (which I have), is a quick and easy way to get an accurate curve. Simply hold in place and push against the curve. Then transfer to a tile and mark with a pencil.

A contour gauge doesn’t have much depth; mine is around 70mm. However, you can turn and use the full length (in my case, 25cm) of the gauge to profile a longer curve.

Shop these tools for great curved tile cuts

3. Measure and mark

If you don’t have a piece of cardboard or a contour gauge handy, you can go freestyle and just measure and mark. I simply take a measurement every 20mm and mark on the tile. Then, join the marks freehand.

This method works well, but you need to take your time, as there’s no room for error. And don’t forget the grout gap. I use a straight edge and a pencil and mark the gap on the floor (or wall), so I don’t forget where to measure from.

4. Homemade hack

I’ve also used a child's school compass as a quick way to create a curve on a template, which you can transfer to a tile. I’ve also used it to mark plank-style tiles directly. This works well on the long side of an object (like a toilet) with a gentle curve.

I generally use a pencil to mark the curve, but a felt tip can work if the pencil isn’t working well, and the tile doesn’t stain.

Step two: Marking the tile to cut

There are a few options to mark a tile so you know where to cut. This will depend on the type of tile. “Use a pencil, as a felt tip pen can sometimes stain certain types of tile," warns Stephen Russell.

Felt tips are typically used on glazed tiles because they can be easily wiped clean. "Make sure you double check they wipe off cleanly on a test tile first," adds Harriet Goodacre, interiors and tiling expert from Topps Tiles, "as you don’t want any unsightly marks left on your brand new tiles."

The other option is to use a tile scribe. “A tile scribe can be used to lightly score the surface of the tile where you need to cut it, explains Harriet. "It’s especially useful when you want a guide that won’t rub away during the cutting process.

“The key is visibility without going too deep," she notes, "as too heavy scoring can lead to chipping.”

Step three: cutting the curve on the tile

There are a few options for cutting a curve once the tile has been marked out. “For curved cuts, it all comes down to how tight the shape and bend is and what the tile’s made from,” advises Harriet Goodacre.

For small curves, a pair of tile nippers is usually sufficient. For larger curves, both our experts, and I, recommend an angle grinder.

“Ease the angle grinder through the marked line using the weight of the angle grinder; do not use added force,” says Stephen Russell.

“Keep running through the angle grinder several times, don’t cut right through the tile when you start," he adds, noting how you also need to make sure you use a masonry disc to cut with.

Alternatively, you can use an electric tile cutter such as this Titan Electric Tile Cutter from Screwfix. This only allows straight cuts, so the technique is to make cuts every 10-20mm from the edge of the tile to the marked-out curve. Ideally, use a tile scribe to mark the curve, then you can snap off each thin tile strand and finish with tile nippers and a metal file such as this TARIST Half Round Metal File from Amazon, for smooth edges

For small, more intricate curves, you can use a tile saw. Good for wall tiles, but you might find you struggle with thicker floor tiles.

You might have seen a few videos online where a tiler uses a manual tile cutter, such as this Vitrex Heavy Duty Tile Cutter from Toolstation, to cut a curve. I can promise you this takes plenty of practice and is best avoided for most DIYers.

If you’re tiling a bathroom floor, you’ll need to know how many tiles you'll need. Especially if cutting curves around a toilet. Find out where to get the best deals with our where to buy bathroom floor tiles guide, or, for inspiration on what to buy, check out our bathroom floor tile ideas.

A cordless drill is an essential tool for any DIYer, so choosing a good one is important. Invest in a poor choice, and it won’t be long before you’ll be looking at spending again. The latest cordless drill to cross my path is the Einhell TP-CD 18/50, an everyday drill aimed at DIYers.

This is the first time I’ve encountered an Einhell drill, so I was excited to see what it had to offer. As a package, it’s making all the right noises, and it comes in at a very tempting price point.

Would it finally be time to say goodbye to my faithful old Black and Decker cordless drill and let the Einhell take its place? Time to find out.

Buy the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 drill today

Spec and features

• Motor type: Brushless motor
• Torque: 50 Nm
• Gears: 2
• Battery type: Lithium Ion
• Battery voltage: 18v
• Weight: 2.35kg
• Chuck capacity: 2mm-13mm
• Features: LED work light, torque adjustment collar, battery level indicator, 1 x hard carry case, 1 x drill body, 1x battery charger, 2 x 2.0Ah batteries, 1 x belt clip, instruction manual

First impressions

Who doesn’t love a power tool that comes with its own hard case? Any type of case is a winner, as it helps protect a power tool, but the Einhell hard case gives the impression of being a long-term friend to the Einhell drill.

It's a solid plastic case with a bright red lid emblazoned with the brand name. At least it will be easy to find. Inside, it is lined with egg box foam padding (one side) and flat foam padding on the other. This ensures that the drill, batteries and charger aren’t thrown around and damaged when on the move.

The drill body feels sturdy and well-built, and sits neatly in the hand, with the rubberised grip giving a secure feel. The LED light instantly makes an appearance when the trigger sets the drill into life (my battery was charged and ready to go). Can I switch this off? Not sure (yet), but it might be good if I could switch it off when not needed as it would help save battery life.

Setting up

As you might expect, there’s not much work involved in setting up a cordless drill. Slide in the battery and you’re ready to go. The battery was already charged, so it could be used straight out of the box which is a nice touch.

What you do need to do is familiarise yourself with the torque selector and the selector switch. The selector switch lets you choose between driving, drilling and impact drilling (the hammer function).

You will need to combine this with the most suitable torque setting to help ensure you get the best from the Einhell TP-CD 18/50. To add a little more to the mix, there are two gears which help you fine-tune performance. There’s a lot going on, so if you are an inexperienced DIYer, you should read the instruction manual fully before you start.

Performance

The fun part of any review is using the product itself, and a new cordless drill is always going to see plenty of action. To kick off, I thought I’d ease myself into using the Einhell TP-CD 18/50with some simple wood screwing tasks. There are no drill bits or a bit holder included, so I used what I already had. The 13mm chuck is easy to use, but slightly different from other drills I’ve used. But it did what it needed to do, without any problems.

I started with 100mm screws for screwing fence panels into wooden posts. With the screw selector in position and the torque setting set to 11, off I went. This worked as expected, but on tougher parts, I had to turn the torque up to the maximum level to finish.

I struggled with one screw in particular, so I switched over to my old cordless drill to see how it compared. The Einhell TP-CD 18/50 was definitely doing a better job, probably thanks to its extra torque (50 Nm compared with 40 Nm).

Like all good drills, the drill stops when it reaches its managed torque level. This ensures you have more control over the drill and don’t go too deep with a screw, which could split the wood. So start low and turn up the torque until you get the level you want.

Tackling heavy duty DIY drilling tasks

Switching the selector to drill or hammer mode eliminates the need to choose a torque setting, with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 automatically switching to maximum output. Perfect for the next set of DIY tasks I had in mind.

Next up was drilling into exterior brickwork, and using my spade drill bit to create recesses in a fence post, ready for the concrete screws. The Einhell TP-CD 18/50 zipped through the timber with no problem.

Switching over to my DeWALT masonry drill bits, putting it into second gear, the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 powered into the brickwork with relative ease. At one point, the drill bit did stick, but I simply retightened the chuck and carried on.

Next up was a move indoors to put up some heavy-duty shelf brackets. Drilling into my interior walls has been hard work in the past. But the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 provided all the power I needed to drill deep enough for the Rawl plugs and screws to be inserted.

I also managed to do all the tasks mentioned without having to swap over the battery. So, I decided to keep going on other DIY tasks to get a better idea of battery life. Overall, I have to say I was very happy with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50's performance so far.

Shop these tools to use with a cordless drill

Battery life

Battery life is key for any cordless tool, and the 18V 2.0Ah batteries supplied with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 didn’t disappoint. The charger features a set of easy-to-understand icons that make it clear what stage the charging is at. Red and green LEDs make sure you don’t get confused.

Charging times using the supplied charger were pretty swift, taking just 40 minutes to reach a full charge and be ready to go. This would be ideal if you only had one battery, but with two batteries on offer, I always had a fully charged battery ready to replace the other when needed.

You might think that quick charging times mean short working times, but this wasn’t the case with the Einhell TP-CD 18/50. A fully charged battery lasted around 45 minutes to an hour. In real terms, that meant I tackled a whole host of DIY jobs over the weekend and didn’t need to replace the battery. And when I did, I had a fully charged battery ready to replace.

A trio of LED lights on the battery can be activated with a quick press of a button to indicate remaining power. Confusingly, the lights were red, rather than green, but I can live with that.

Final verdict

If you’re looking for an everyday drill that can tackle pretty much any DIY task that you can throw at it, then the Einhell TP-CD 18/50 Cordless Brushless Combi Drill is definitely one you need to add to your list. It offers plenty of torque (50Nm) for a standard cordless drill, which sits at the top end of what you usually get at this level.

For less than £100, you get a solid drill, two batteries, a charger, and a hard case, which, in my opinion, makes it good value for money. You might not get any drill or screwdriver bits with it, which would have been nice, but a charger and two batteries more than make up for this. On the plus side, you can choose the bits you need rather than getting a bunch you may never use.

Throw in quick charge times and decent working times, and there’s little that I didn't like about the Einhell TP-CD 18/50. How long it stays as my number one drill, only time will tell.

Ask me a few years ago and I’d have probably turned my nose up at the idea of wallpapering. It would have conjured up flashbacks of my nan’s dated ‘Eternal Beau’-inspired chintzy borders, or my gran’s bold-but-questionable devotion to psychedelic 1970s florals. For a long time, wallpaper was firmly filed under “decor best left in the past”.

But then I moved into a Victorian house and realised that wallpaper might actually be the decorating equivalent of a good concealer. Uneven walls or dodgy plasterwork? Covered. Wonky chimney breast? Distracted from. Instant results? Absolutely!

I've since had several attempts at wallpapering through my home – with mixed results. So, in the interests of saving you from peeling seams, mismatched patterns and paste-related regret, here are the wallpapering mistakes I’ve learned the hard way, as well as some expert tips on how to resolve them.

1. Not using enough paste

Wallpapering our narrow hallway was quite the challenge due to our steep staircase, but we were happy with our paper choice and results, at least for a while. Then we started to notice that it was peeling in a couple of places at the edges, but couldn’t work out why.

It’s a common issue, according to Ulams Mazulis, co-owner of Fancy Walls. “Many first-time wallpaper installers run into this problem,” he says. “It often means there was not enough glue on the wallpaper or the wall. To fix it, lift the peeling edge, use a small brush to add more wallpaper glue underneath, press the wallpaper back down, and smooth it with a wallpaper roller.”

We used traditional wallpaper, but this problem can also occur with peel-and-stick variations. “This typically indicates that the wall was not cleaned well enough before installation, leaving dust and residue behind,” says Ulams. “But again, you can buy wallpaper glue and apply it to the peeling area, just like with traditional wallpaper. Another option is to use thin double-sided tape around the edge that is coming loose.”

2. I didn’t cover every wall straight away

This is a particular regret in my guest bedroom, where I picked out a lovely Mid-century Scion Khadi design in grey, but only used it in the room’s alcoves. While the paper wasn’t cheap, (which probably explains why I was so timid at the time), I regret not covering all my walls for a stronger design statement. Especially now that the wallpaper has been discontinued.

"We definitely see defaulting to a single feature wall or perhaps a couple of alcoves as a wallpapering mistake," says Sophie Smith, director and co-founder of The Living House.

"People are now much braver with their interior choices, wallpapering every wall, even papering the ceiling, which creates a cosy, cocooning feel and brings real character to a space. In fact, a feature wall in a long narrow room can actually work against you," she adds, "making the wall feel like it's coming toward you, and the room feel smaller as a result."

3. Drying washing on radiators with wallpaper behind them

Full disclosure – this is an issue my best friend had rather than myself, as my decorator had already had some stern words for me as he wallpapered behind radiators. My big takeaway from his lecture was never to dry washing on a radiator with wallpaper behind it, as the moisture and steam created is bound to cause issues.

But that’s not the only possible culprit.

"Bubbling behind the radiator often happens because the radiator’s heat slowly dries out the wallpaper glue," says Ulams Mazulis. "As the glue dries, the wallpaper can stretch or expand, which causes these bubbles."

Wallpapering in the summer months when the radiators are turned off can give more time for the glue to adhere more strongly, but if the advice comes too late for you and you've spotted bubbles appearing, you can try the following method to fix it.

Start by gently smoothing the bubble with a wallpaper smoother. "Move slowly from the edge of the bubble toward the centre to push the air out," says Ulams Mazulis. "If the bubble stays after smoothing, use a needle to make a tiny pinhole in the centre, then gently press the air out through the hole."

4. The small-scale pattern I chose looks too fussy

Now, this is a mistake I definitely won’t make again, and I’ve been much bolder with my more recent wallpaper ideas. But why do small-scale patterns fail in many spaces?

"Many people assume a small room needs a small print, but a large scale pattern can actually trick the eye into making a space feel bigger," says Sophie Smith. "It's also worth thinking about what other patterns you will be pairing the wallpaper with, such as your soft furnishings, light shades, cushions and accessories."

Fussy patterns with too many colours in them can actually be quite tricky to mix and match with soft furnishings and paint colours. So something with a bolder print and more limited palette can make life easier – especially in the long run, when you want to change up other accessories.

5. Excess paste has left dirty marks on my ceiling

As first-time wallpaperers, we definitely encountered this issue. And I can attest that if you don’t deal with wiping up the excess paste, you’ll be staring up with regret at marks on your ceiling for years, rather than admiring your lovely wallpaper pattern.

It’s best to tackle the issue as you’re decorating. "To clean excess paste from your ceiling, use hot water and a microfibre cloth," says Ulams Mazulis. "Usually, wiping the area will fix the problem. If that does not work, you, or the person who installed the wallpaper, may need to return and repaint the spot."

6. Poor pattern placement is distracting

Not getting your pattern matching right is one of those details you can’t un-see once you’ve spotted it. A poorly positioned wallpaper repeat can turn an otherwise beautiful design into something oddly distracting – whether that’s a flower awkwardly sliced in two or a poor animal or bird missing its head altogether.

"Hanging patterned wallpaper requires thinking about where the motifs start and stop," explains Sophie. "If it's a design featuring animals or flowers, you really don't want the motif chopped in half at the top of the wall where it will be the first thing people notice."

"Take the time to plan your drops before you begin, positioning the pattern so that the most prominent motifs fall in the most visible and flattering parts of the wall."

If you're nervous, go for a more forgiving patterned design, like this B&Q GoodHome Nivosa plaster-effect embossed wallpaper in teal that I've used in my hallway. It's been part of the range for years and we were impressed by the quality – it feels just as thick as some very expensive lookalikes, and hides a multitude of sins.

FAQ

Why is the wallpaper peeling on my new-build walls?

If you’ve recently wallpapered your new-build home, you might see gaps emerging between your lengths of wallpaper despite your best efforts. But this won’t necessarily be due to your pasting skills.

"If you’ve just moved into a new build, the building materials will still adjust to their new environment for up to 12 months," says interior design expert, Hannah Prescott of Diamond Interiors. "Wood, concrete, and plaster need about 12 months to dry and settle properly, so if you paint or apply wallpaper prematurely, you could end up dealing with cracks and gaps as the materials adjust to temperature changes and settle in."

Our guide to wallpapering new plaster can help ensure nothing goes wrong.

Now we've dealt with any potential disasters and hopefully renewed your confidence in wallpapering, brush up on some wallpapering hacks that will help you get a pro finish, and make sure you invest in the best wallpaper tools to make the job eaier.

Not every DIYer has the same definition of budget when looking to buy power tools, so for clarity, in this article, I’m going to focus mainly on budget brands and power tools that sit at the low end of the price scale. However, I have included a well-known power tool brand for balance and curiosity.

Just remember that budget doesn’t have to mean bad. Better-known brands like Makita and DEWALT undoubtedly produce good-quality tools, but they are typically aimed beyond the DIY market and are built for everyday use, meaning they cost more. Budget power tools rarely have the same build quality, but you can still find quality for DIY use.

Here I share the 5 budget tools I've been using for years and what to consider when shopping for your own affordable tool kit.

Five power tools I didn’t spend big on and are still going today

1. Black+Decker cordless drill

A drill is the king of power tools for DIYers. It’s one tool that every level of DIYer owns, and it's often the first power tool they buy. It's been a while since I bought my first power tool, but my current cordless drill from Black+Decker has been with me for over ten years. And it didn’t cost big bucks back when I bought it.

However, it's been with me so long that the specific model I have is no longer available. But the current incarnation (see below) is well-priced and a great choice for basic drilling and screwing.

If you want something more powerful, then I can recommend the Einhell TE-CD 18 Cordless Combi Drill (available from Screwfix). I’ve just got this, and I’m liking it. Hopefully, it will last as long as my existing Black+Decker model.

2. Black+Decker detail sander

I know it's another Black+Decker power tool, but I’ve always found them to be a good choice for DIY jobs, and this handy little detail sander works a treat and costs just over £20. I’ve had mine for over five years, and it’s done my stairs, spindles and bannisters. It’s also sanded dozens of doors, door frames, architraves, window frames, window sills and skirting boards. In fact, most of the woodwork in my home – and it's still going strong.

The only things I've had to change are the plug (I broke it) and the sandpaper pads. And if it does go wrong, I‘ve only got to shell out another £22.

3. Von Haus orbital sander

I had never heard of VonHaus before their orbital sander made its way into my hands. But I needed a new sander, read a few reviews, and thought I’d take a chance. I can’t remember how much I paid for it, but it wasn’t a lot, and I’ve had it for around four years. It’s been a faithful companion to my detail sander, so it's seen a lot of action.

Alongside all the jobs my detail sander has tackled, this orbital sander has done even more. It has sanded plywood and MDF sheets, refreshed my garden furniture, and even helped sand floorboards.

Its easy-to-use variable-speed feature is very helpful when sanding and probably helps prolong its life, as it's not always in top gear. And, like my Black+Decker mouse, it's still going strong, and the current price point (just under £30) makes it worth considering.

4. MacAllister circular saw

MacAllister was another brand I had never heard of when I bought their circular saw. But my thinking was a little different. I needed a circular saw, and on one of my many trips to B&Q, I spotted the Mac Allister 190mm corded circular saw at a very affordable price. So I bought it.

Here we are over three years later, and it's still working fine. It has cut through numerous sheets of plywood and MDF, helping me build wardrobes, shelving units, shelves, flooring, and timber partitions.

As you might expect, it's not cordless, so you’ll need an extension lead (like this STATUS 2 Socket Cable Reel from Amazon) to ensure you’re in the right place when you need to be. The blade is an all-rounder with 24 teeth which is great for ripping through timber and board, but you might need something more subtle if looking for a finer cut.

5. Makita mitre saw

I have to be honest and say that my Makita mitre saw isn’t at the budget end of the price scale, but I think it's definitely good value for money. This is one of my most recent acquisitions, and I decided to invest a bit more as I had the budget to do so. And I was curious, and wanted to see the quality I would get from a well-known brand.

It's fair to say I wasn’t disappointed. This saw is sturdy and well-built, with a general air of quality. The Makita LS0714N/1 190mm Sliding Compound Mitre Saw (available from Screwfix) has helped me build custom fence panels and lay wooden floors, ensuring I get crisp, clean and even edges, and angles where needed.

If you don’t want to spend a lot, there are plenty of cheaper alternatives that will do a decent job. Worx and Metabo (like this Metabo KGS 216 Slide Compound Mitre Saw from Amazon) are good mid-range options, while Evolution power tools are a good budget option as well.

How to choose budget power tools

If you are an occasional DIYer, you will probably use your power tools only a few times a year. Even if you’re a keen DIYer, it's unlikely all your power tools will be called into action every weekend.

And, when you do call upon your power tools, some will be called into action more than others. For example, a drill is probably going to get a lot more use than an angle grinder, so it makes sense not to buy really cheap tools that you use the most. Read reviews and take a chance; most of the time you won’t be disappointed.

I’ve bought a lot of budget power tools, and they rarely let me down. And when they have, it's been very soon after purchasing, so I’ve been able to take them back under the warranty and get them replaced.

My general advice is always to consider how much use a power tool will get and buy accordingly. If it's going to get a lot of use, spend at the top end of your budget. If unsure, buy a budget brand and see how it goes. What's the worst that can happen? It might only last a couple of years. Alternatively, it could last for years like my budget power tools have.

Also, compare budget brand prices with cheaper versions of well-known brands. You might get something that costs a bit more, but may last longer and offers more features.

Finally, I suggest you buy high-quality accessories such as drill bits and sanding discs. Accessories supplied with budget models are, as a general rule, low in quality.

FAQs

Who makes budget power tools?

Take a search on Amazon, and we guarantee that you’ll find a whole range of power tool brands you have never heard of alongside the more established ones. Take a trip to your local B&Q, and you’ll notice some very competitively priced power tools under the MacAllister name. They also have a brand called Erbauer. Screwfix has a brand called Titan, and even Lidl has some smart power tool bargains under the Parkside banner. These are all own-brand power tools.

Most budget tools come from manufacturers that already make power tools. As an example, the Parkside brand (found in Lidl) is owned by the Einhell group, based in Germany, which produces its own power tools. B&Q and Screwfix are both part of the Kingfisher group. So it's safe to assume many of their power tools come from the same source.

Brands like B&Q with their own brand power tools still want a good reputation, so it makes sense that you are still getting a decent product when you opt for a more budget price tag.

The right power tools make any DIY project go that bit smoother. Call your sanders into action and get your prep right for must-see paint trends, matching skirting boards with your interior style and making the most of some smart wall panelling ideas.

Mosaic tiles can instantly elevate a room’s appearance. Their versatility and design diversity make them a perfect companion for floors and walls in any living space. They can enhance your hallway flooring, elevate your kitchen design and underline any smart bathroom designs you desire.

However, there are some subtle differences to standard tiles that any DIYer needs to know, whether you're using mosaic tiles when tiling a wall, or any other kind of surface.

Most mosaics conveniently come with a mesh backing to take the hard work out of spacing, but you’ll still need the right tools and techniques to get a professional-looking finish.

Tools you’ll need to install mosaic tiles

The tools you need to install mosaic tiles will differ slightly from a standard tiling kit. For example, you will need the right size trowel, shares Lorenzo Smith, Head of Product at Ca’ Pietra. “A smaller-notched trowel is important, as it helps control the adhesive bed and prevents it from pushing up through the finer joints.”

Another key essential to get right is adhesive to make sure that your tiles stay in place. "A flexible tile adhesive is the safest and most dependable choice," says Lorenzo. "White adhesive is often preferred for glass, marble, or lighter finishes," he adds, "so that the tone beneath does not interfere with the final appearance.”

In addition to the right trowel and adhesive, you’ll also need scissors to cut the backing mesh, tile nippers to cut the actual tile (a standard tile cutter won’t work), a rubber grout float, and a large sponge such as these GADLANE Jumbo Car Wash Sponges from Amazon.

A spirit level and a straight edge such as this ZZTX 12 Inch Stainless Steel Ruler from Amazon are also essential to ensure straight lines.

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How to install mosaic tiles

1. Apply adhesive

To apply the adhesive, you will need a 4mm notch trowel.

"Spread in smaller sections so that it remains workable and applied at a consistent angle to ensure an even bed," says Lorenzo Smth.

One smart tip is to slightly flatten the ridges before placing the tile. Once the tile is in place, press down with a grout float or a similar-sized piece of board to help ensure good adhesion and a level surface.

2. Lay from the centre outwards

Although it can depend on the area being tile, as a general rule, start in the centre recommends Lorenzo Smith.

“With mosaics, beginning from the centre and working outwards often delivers the most composed result. This is especially true on splashbacks or feature walls, where symmetry is more apparent.

“That said, everything depends on a reliable starting point," he adds. “A perfectly level guide line is essential before any tile is fixed in place. Whether you begin from a central axis or a key edge such as a worktop, taking the time to establish that reference will define the accuracy of everything that follows.”

If you do start centrally, make sure to measure up (or dry-lay if possible) and see where the tile edges will fit against walls and surfaces. Luckily, mosaic sheets are pretty flexible, so you often don’t need to cut the tile, just the mosaic mesh, to get a good fit.

“It is also worth checking each sheet before installation," adds Lorenzo, "as small irregularities can sometimes occur during manufacturing, and these are far easier to correct before the tiles are fixed in place.”

3. Keep a consistent gap

The backing sheet of a mosaic ensures consistent spacing between the individual mosaics. However, when a sheet is placed on the adhesive and pressed into place, the mosaics can shift and twist slightly, so they are not always perfectly aligned.

Check by eye to see whether any of the mosaics are out of line. To ensure consistent alignment, I use a straight edge, a 30cm steel ruler, and place it in the gap and adjust any mosaic. I do this vertically and horizontally if needed.

Time spent at this point will ensure you don’t need to adjust later, which will be more difficult and time-consuming.

4. Cut in the correct way

When dealing with mosaic tile sheets, you rarely need to cut the actual mosaic tile, but if you do, there is a process to follow.

The first step is to, "cut the mesh backing first with scissors or a craft knife to separate the tiles you need," says Harriet Goodacre, interiors and tiling expert at Topps Tiles.

Make sure to measure and double-check before you cut so you don’t remove too many tiles. I can tell you from experience that it gets fiddly if you do, and have to start adding individual mosaics to complete a job.

If you need to make small cuts, you’ll need tile nippers, confirms Harriet. “For shaping, tile nippers are the easiest option, especially for curves or small adjustments. You simply cut away at the mosaic little by little, then smooth any rough edges with a file," she says.

I suggest a round file for curves and a flat file for straight edges. This will make sure your bathroom tile ideas look much more professional.

If however you need to make a straight cut across a full mosaic sheet, the best option is an electric tile cutter. To help ensure a straight cut, I apply wide masking tape to the front and back of the mosaic sheet where the cut will be made. This helps stop the mosaics from moving while being cut.

“It’s also worth remembering to wear gloves and safety glasses while cutting, particularly with glass mosaics, as small shards can break away," advises Harriet.

Shop these mosaic tiles for walls and floors

FAQs

Should I use tile spacers?

Tile spacers are a must when installing standard tiles, but mosaics are slightly different. Lorenzo Smith points out where best to use, saying, “tile spacers can be useful between sheets, particularly if you are less familiar with mosaic installation, though they are rarely needed within the sheets themselves.”

Personally, I think it’s easier to judge the gap by eye. But if in any doubt, use a spacer at both edges of the mosaic tile sheet to get an even gap.

The common gap between the mosaics is 2mm, so invest in a pack of 2mm tile spacers like these OX Trade Cross Shaped Tile Spacers from Amazon.

How do I choose the right mosaic tiles?

Choosing the right mosaic tile is the key to a smart finish. Alex Woods, bathroom expert at Victorian Plumbing, shares how to choose the right mosaic tile for your project.

“When deciding on your tiles, I would recommend holding a few options up against your wall or floor first to see how they look in the actual lighting of the room. Natural and artificial light can change how colours appear, so it’s worth checking before you commit.” Consider investing in a few different samples before you commit to purchasing.

“Mosaic tiles are typically small, busy patterns that can make a space feel more detailed and textured, while larger or simpler designs create a cleaner, more modern look," says Alex, "so it’s also important that the tile design suits the space. For example, lighter colours can make small bathrooms feel bigger, while darker tones can add contrast and style in larger areas.”

Lorenzo Smith's final tips for installing mosaic tiles? It's a simple tip, but it's essentially don’t rush.

“Take the time to step back and assess your progress at regular intervals," says Lorezo. This allows you to maintain a consistent finish, ensuring the final result feels cohesive and carefully executed.”

Mosaic tiles work well in bathrooms and kitchens and can add a whole new nuance to a room. Check out how to make the most of them in in these spaces with this range of kitchen wall tile ideas, and bathroom tile ideas for small bathrooms.

When you need new tiles in your home, but don't necessarily have the budget or time for a major tiling project, peel and stick tiles (also known as self-adhesive tiles) offer a practical, budget-friendly solution.

And, as they also don't require the specialist knowledge needed to lay traditional tiles, they are the ideal option for DIYers looking to lend their hand to an easy refresh.

There are still some must-follow rules to ensure that your newly laid peel and stick tiles stay looking good for longer. But if you follow these, you can end up with a stylish design, a tiling pattern you love, and a finish that looks professional. That’s why I use them – and why they could be the right choice for you too.

Benefits of peel and stick tiles

Peel and stick tiles, like their ceramic and stone counterparts, can be used almost anywhere in the home, confirms David Turner, head of product at Leader Online. “The flexibility of peel and stick vinyl makes it suitable for everywhere except staircases," he notes. "The adhesive will not withstand the pressure of vertical forces, making it a potential safety hazard.”

Peel and stick tiles have excellent durability and longevity too he adds. “With a clear scratch-resistant layer, high-quality vinyl (the material peel and stick tiles are made of) can withstand pet claws, furniture scrapes and everyday wear.

“On average, vinyl flooring can last up to 10 years if properly installed, with high-quality tiles lasting more than 15 years.” Wall tiles are slightly different though he explains.

“Wall tiles can last between 3 and 10 years, depending on how well they were installed, and the environmental conditions they are in. High-moisture areas, such as when they are used for bathroom tiling ideas may make them lift sooner.”

Plenty of design options

In terms of how they look, peel and stick tiles can also be found in a variety of options to suit most interior design trends and individual tastes.

“Advances in technology mean peel and stick tiles are now available in a range of high-quality designs," confirms David Turner. “A popular modern design is stone-effect, which gives the look of natural slate or concrete, without the cold feel of real stone.

“Stylish geometric designs with Moroccan influences, or bolder patterns like mosaics and hexagons that give the impression of hand-painted designs also sell well," he adds.

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