I love a heatwave for the simple reason that it means long balmy evenings spent round the fire pit and the chance to eat dinners al fresco. But what I don't love is the effect it's having on my home.

First I noticed an outdoor cushion had faded from a beautifully printed design to a barely-there smudge. Next, my beloved houseplants started crisping at the edges, no matter how much time I took to mist them. Then, when I finally moved my favourite armchair away from the window in my living room, the back of it was a whole shade lighter than the front, having bleached away for weeks while I sat there none the wiser.

I'd been closing the odd curtain on the worst afternoons and telling myself that counted as doing something about it, but clearly it wasn't enough. So instead of watching everything in my house fade and crisp around me, I went to find out what was actually going on, and what could be done about it before it got any worse.

1. Exterior paintwork and render

I started outside my home, on the assumption that whatever was fading my cushion was probably doing the same to the paintwork and render too. It turns out I wasn't wrong.

Joe Burton, materials specialist at The Brick Tile Co, confirmed my suspicions. "For exterior paints and renders, prolonged exposure leads to fading, chalking and cracking as UV breaks down the polymer bonds in the resin," he explains. "This process is cumulative and accelerates when combined with temperature changes and moisture."

The good news is that a lot of this is avoidable with the right products. "UV-resistant paints and coatings formulated with high-quality polymers or acrylics offer better resistance to chalking and fading," Joe tells me.

2. Windows, fascias and frames

It was a similar story with my windows and doors, according to Darren Coates, sales director at SolarFrame.

"South and west-facing elevations usually take the worst of it, because they tend to get the strongest sun later on in the day," he says. "With lower-quality or older uPVC windows, you can sometimes see discolouration over time, particularly on elevations that get hammered by the sun every afternoon."

It's not just the glass and frames either. "Door slabs, trims, seals and external finishes can also start to look worn if they've had years of UV exposure, heat and bad weather working against them," Darren adds.

His advice is to think about this when selecting windows and specifying these details, not after. "At the planning or specification stage, homeowners should think about where the sun hits the property hardest. If a side of the house gets strong sun for hours every day, that's where frame material, window colour choice, glazing specification and roof design really matter."

But for anyone like me, already living with older frames, he adds that maintenance matters too.

"Don't attack frames or doors with harsh chemicals, abrasive pads or pressure washers right up close, because you can damage the surface and make weathering look worse. A gentle clean with the right products is usually all they need."

3. Cladding and roof coverings

Thankfully, my home is made of stone, so I don't have any external cladding to worry about, but plenty of homeowners do, so I asked Lisa Grosse, regional product and marketing lead at Cedral, what she sees most often.

"UV exposure can cause exterior materials to fade, bleach or discolour, while high temperatures can make them expand, contract or warp," she says. "South-facing elevations are particularly vulnerable because they receive the most direct sunlight."

Timber cladding tends to bear the brunt of it, changing colour and moving over time. "If that movement damages the facade or creates gaps, it could also increase the risk of water ingress later in the year," she warns.

Roofs aren't spared either. "Roofing materials can also be affected by heat and sun exposure. Rising temperatures may cause blistering or cracking on roof tiles and slates, and can also affect sealants," Lisa says.

Her advice is to think about durability as much as appearance when specifying materials. "Materials with good thermal stability are particularly important on exposed elevations because they are less likely to warp or crack."

Fibre cement is one option worth asking about, since it's designed to withstand years of heat and direct sun without warping.

It's also worth remembering that garden rooms and sheds are usually built from the same cladding and roofing materials as the house itself, so they're just as exposed, sometimes more so, given how little shelter most gardens offer.

4. Decking and fencing

My own garden doesn't include decking, but, according to the experts, it's one of the areas that takes the most obvious hit. "Exposure to UV rays from direct sunlight over time can inflict cosmetic damage, causing wood to lighten and discolour," explains Jimmy Englezos, resident DIY expert and senior brand manager at Ronseal.

"These rays can also strip away the natural oils in the wood, leading to cracking, which allows water to seep in and cause rot and decay," he adds.

The fix depends on what state your decking or fencing is already in. "The best way to protect exterior wood from UV damage is with a specialised protector like a decking restorer or fence protector," Jimmy explains.

If yours is already discoloured, it's not necessarily a lost cause. "A decking restorer can be used to refresh it back to its original state," Jimmy says, before reapplying an oil, stain or paint to protect it going forward.

Thankfully for me, paving and stone courtyards fare much better. Stone and concrete are far more UV-stable than timber, though even paving can lose some colour intensity after years of being exposed to direct sunlight.

5. Fabrics and upholstery

I'll admit I assumed the real damage was outside, until I looked properly at my armchair and realised the sun had been working on my interiors just as steadily.

This issue, it turns out, was entirely predictable. "The biggest risk to our sofa during a heatwave isn't actually the heat itself, it's prolonged exposure to direct sunlight," explains Sergiu Tulbur, head of product innovation and design at OPA Living.

"UV rays gradually break down the dyes used in upholstery, causing colours to fade or become uneven, particularly on the side of the sofa that faces the window." It's not just colour either. "Heat can also dry out natural materials such as leather, making them more prone to cracking over time, while repeated periods of high temperatures can affect the resilience of foam fillings, meaning cushions may not spring back quite as well."

Some fabrics fare worse than others. "Upholstery made from cotton, linen or velvet is generally more prone to fading because natural fibres absorb dyes differently to synthetic fabrics," Sergiu explains.

"Performance fabrics and many synthetic upholstery materials are designed to be more resistant to fading, but no sofa is completely protected if it's left in direct sunlight day after day."

The solution isn't always as simple as moving a sofa either. "Rotating seat and back cushions regularly will help prevent one area fading faster than another, while leather should be conditioned every few months to maintain its natural moisture," Sergiu advises.

For anything too large or heavy to reposition, he points to another option. "UV filtering solar window film is another effective option many homeowners don't consider. It helps reduce the amount of harmful UV entering the room without significantly reducing natural light, offering year-round protection for both your furniture and other home furnishings."

6. Original art and prints

My hallway prints and paintings also had every reason to fade. "UV radiation breaks down the pigments in your prints slowly, and heat speeds the whole thing up," says Julia Kindermann, print industry specialist at Custtom.

"Blues and yellows go first, so the image starts looking a bit 'off' colour-wise before it looks obviously faded. It hits canvas prints, photo prints, framed art, and, to be honest, anything hanging in a room that gets direct sun. South-facing rooms and conservatories are the worst, as they trap heat and basically cook whatever's on the walls."

I found the fix was simple. I now keep valuable pieces off direct-sun walls where I can, and the same UV window film protecting my furniture does the same for my artwork.

7. Flooring

It hadn't occurred to me to check the floor until I read what Ian Tomlinson, managing director of Chauncey's Timber Flooring, had to say about it.

"As much as we love sunlight streaming into our homes, it's inevitable that any natural materials in your home will change colour with prolonged contact with the sun's rays," he says. "The sun's ultraviolet light is generally the biggest culprit when it comes to colour changes in wood flooring."

Like most sun damage, it's slow enough to go unnoticed until something forces the comparison. "In most cases, you probably won't even notice the change in your floor's colour as it will happen so gradually, but it can be noticeable when you move a piece of furniture which has been blocking the sun for a long time." That's a familiar story by this point.

Not every floor reacts the same way, either. "Different wood species react differently to sun exposure. Some will lighten, some will darken, and each species reacts at different rates." If you're choosing flooring with this in mind, Ian's advice is to keep it simple. "I advise opting for a light hardwood species such as oak or ash. These species are less prone to significant or sudden colour change."

Uneven fading is the more common complaint though, the patch under a rug or sofa staying its original shade while the rest of the room moves on without it. Ian recommends, "balancing out the fading by rearranging furniture and floor coverings from time to time. This helps the floor age more evenly and reduces noticeable differences in colour."

Can sun damage ever be undone?

After everything I’d heard, this was the question I most wanted answered. The answer was mixed and proves that prevention really is everything when it comes to UV damage.

It depends entirely on the material, according to Joe Burton. "Paint that has faded or is chalking can be repainted, though the underlying surface might still be brittle. Severely cracked or rotted wood will need replacing."

Fabric and photographs are the least forgiving of all. "Faded leather or fabrics are extremely difficult to restore to their original colour, and replacement is often the only practical option once the colour has been significantly bleached," he says.

"Similarly, photographs cannot be repaired once they have faded. The key is prevention, as restoration is limited once the damage has set in."

FAQs

What can I do if I'm building or renovating this summer?

There's a less obvious risk worth knowing about if you're currently rendering, painting or finishing an exterior. Neil Reed, owner of Lime Render Southwest, argues the sun itself often isn't the real culprit.

"For many exterior building materials, sunlight itself isn't usually the problem once the product has fully cured," he says. "However, if it's exposed to intense heat or strong sunshine before it's had enough time to cure properly, it can dry out too quickly.

"That interrupts the curing process, meaning it may never develop the strength it was designed to have," he explains. "You won't always see the effects immediately, everything can look perfectly fine when the job is finished, but over time it may not perform as expected because it never fully hardened in the first place."

I'm not building or renovating myself, but for anyone who is, it's worth thinking about UV resistance at the design stage too, not just the timing of the work.

"Specifying materials with inherent UV resistance from the outset is the most effective strategy," says Joe Burton.

"This means choosing paints and cladding formulated with UV-resistant pigments and stabilisers." That thinking can extend to the design itself. "Shade provided through eaves, pergolas or strategic landscaping can also reduce direct sun exposure on the most vulnerable walls and windows, protecting both the external materials and the interior from UV-A penetration."

What can I do to stop my old glazing letting in UV light?

It turns out the glass in my ancient windows was doing far less to protect my interiors than I realised. "Older glazing can allow rooms to take the full force of the sun day after day, especially where you've got big panes of glass, patio doors, French doors, bi-folds, or bay windows," says Darren Coates.

"Natural light is great, but uncontrolled sunlight can be brutal on interiors," he confirms. Conservatories tend to come off worst, particularly older ones with a polycarbonate roof rather than a solid one, taking the sun's full force from above as well as through the walls.

Simon Browne, national training manager at Luxaflex UK, points to shading as the fix. "External shading solutions such as awnings and exterior screens intercept the sun's rays before they reach the glass, reducing both heat and UV exposure indoors," he says. Honeycomb blinds are one of the more effective indoor options, he adds, capable of reducing "UV rays by up to 99.9%."

By the time I'd spoken to everyone, I'd ordered UV film for my windows, moved that armchair for good, and I'm eyeing up a set of external blinds for the room that gets the worst of the afternoon sun.

My garden cushion, sadly, is beyond saving. But everything else in the house has a fighting chance now that I'm actually paying attention. For more advice on managing your home in a heatwave, find out what you can do to prevent overheating when designing one, and if you're struggling to keep cool right now, here's what's involved if you're thinking of installing air con.

Timber cladding brings a natural warmth, texture, and enduring elegance to the outside of a home. It helps create an appealing, natural, organic connection with its surroundings, while also providing durability, versatility, and sustainability.

However, over time, poor installation and lack of maintenance can cause timber cladding to fade, and ugly, unwanted streaks appear around fixings. Here we look at the reasons why timber cladding spoils, suggestions for fixing them, and expert tips to help protect and maintain it for a longer life.

Reasons why timber cladding gets ruined

There are several reasons timber cladding gets spoiled. Some are mistakes in the fitting, whilst others are nature taking its course. The type of problem is a good indicator of the issue.

Tom Barnes, managing director of Vastern Timber, shares one of the most common problems: ”The most common culprit is the fixings. Galvanised or zinc-plated nails and screws are not designed for external timber.”

He adds, “Once moisture gets through the protective coating, corrosion begins. That corrosion reacts with the natural tannins in the wood, leaving dark streaks running down from every fixing point.”

Another common reason is a lack of maintenance and nature taking its course. Barnes says, “Greying is a different matter entirely. Left untreated, timber weathers naturally to silver-grey.” He adds, “In polluted areas or on north-facing elevations, the boards may darken to black rather than grey. That is not a failure. It is timber doing what timber does outdoors.”

Shop these to help restore timber cladding

The best fixings for timber cladding

Choosing the wrong fixing is a common cause of ugly, unwanted streaks, so it's essential to use the right one. Martin Dooley, carpentry specialist and the founder of MD Carpentry Workshop, says, “There’s no shortcut here. People try to save money with galvanised nails, but you risk cracking the protective zinc coating. Once that's breached, the nail rusts and the wood gets stained.”

To make sure this doesn’t happen, Barnes says, “Always use stainless steel. A2 grade for most exterior environments, A4 for coastal or high-exposure locations.” He explains why, “Stainless steel does not corrode and does not react with tannins. It costs a little more than galvanised, but compared to the cost of the timber and installation, it is a small price to pay.”

Does it make sense to replace fixings?

Replacing fixings is an option to help ensure they don't cause any further damage. However, it's not always a viable or sensible option, explains Barnes, “Removing fixings from installed cladding is risky.”

He adds, “If the boards have been nailed rather than screwed, recovery is unlikely. The boards will split during extraction and will need to be replaced entirely.”

However, the real issue isn’t replacing the fixings, but the timber itself continues, Barnes, “The bigger problem is that by the time staining appears, the damage runs through the full depth of the board. The tannin reaction is not surface-level.”

How to replace fixings on timber cladding

If you decide that replacing fixings is the way forward for your timber cladding, there are a few options available. But it is worth noting that this isn’t a quick or easy job and can be risky.

However, if you do want to go ahead, Dooley suggests one approach: “Don't try to yank out with a claw hammer, you'll crush the wood fibres and leave a scar.” He adds, “I use a 'punch-and-fill' method. Drive the old nail about 5mm deeper into the batten using a pin punch and fill the hole.”

Once this has been done, Dooley says, “Place your new stainless steel screw (or nail) slightly above or below the original hole.” However, he warns, “It’s a tedious job, but it can save the face of the timber.”

Restoring timber cladding

How you restore timber cladding will depend on the state of the wood, Barnes says, "For heavy staining, oxalic acid is the most effective treatment for drawing out discolouration from the surface of the wood."

He adds, "For deep staining, expect improvement rather than full restoration. Once timber has been in contact with the wrong fixings, it has been permanently altered. Your best outcome is cosmetic improvement, not a return to new."

However, for lighter marks, Dooley says, "I always recommend a wood reviver power gel. You apply it to the damp wood, scrub it with a stiff nylon brush, and it chemically lifts the greyed cells and neutralises the black iron stains."

He adds, "After a gentle rinse, the wood looks raw and fresh again. That’s your window to apply a high-quality UV oil to stop the cycle from starting over.”

Barnes adds, "For lighter marks, Osmo Wood Reviver Power Gel is worth trying. Allow whatever product you use to dry fully before assessing what remains. "

Ideally, you want to avoid sanding if at all possible. However, if needed Buckley says, "Only use light sanding if the surface is rough or uneven, not as a first step." A fine sandpaper grade (120 grit) is typically a good choice. Remember to feather the edges for a smooth finish.

5 tips to maintain timber cladding

Prevention is better than repair, so maintenance is critical to keep your timber cladding looking good. Here, the experts offer some smart tips.

1. Deal with issues early

Joe Buckley, Director of Heritage Joinery Solutions, says, “Keeping airflow behind the cladding and dealing with small issues early is what really extends its lifespan, rather than waiting until the damage is obvious."

2. Keep it clean

Barnes recommends regular cleaning: “The single best thing you can do is clean your cladding with a wood reviver every one to two years. It keeps the surface in good condition and deals with any discolouration before it takes hold."

3. Avoid pressure washers

While using a pressure washer may seem like a good idea its not recommended. Barnes says, “They can damage the surface of the wood and leave unsightly patterns that are difficult to reverse.” Dooley suggests what you should do instead: “A garden hose and a soft brush are all you need for a yearly clean.”

4. Protect bottom of cladding

The base of the boards, nearer the ground, needs more attention. Dooley says, "It takes the most abuse from rain bouncing off the ground. Give this area an extra coat of protection every couple of years.”

Barnes adds another smart move, “Keep plants clear of the base of the boards. Ivy and overgrown borders hold moisture against the lower courses, and the timber never dries out properly between wet periods.”

5. Protect the end grain

The end grain of timber cladding is more vulnerable and therefore needs extra protection. Dooley says, “Make sure the end grains are heavily sealed with a wax or end-grain protector to prevent splitting and rot.”

FAQ

How long should timber cladding last?

Several factors affect the longevity of timber cladding. However, if installed and maintained correctly, it should last for decades, as Joe Buckley shares, “Well-installed timber cladding should last 40 to 60 years, but the type of wood makes a big difference."

Buckley continues, “Hardwoods like oak or larch tend to be more durable and weather-resistant, lasting up to 60 years. Softwoods such as pine or spruce require proper treatment to achieve a similar lifespan.”

Without treatment, the lifespan can be severely reduced. “Typically, they'd last only 15 to 25 years unless they’re pressure-treated and maintained regularly, which can extend them closer to 30 to 40 years.”

Tom Barnes reinforces the point, “Installed correctly with stainless steel fixings and proper ventilation, timber cladding is a long-term investment.” He adds, “Larch, British cedar and sweet chestnut will last at least 30 years. More durable options, such as Canadian cedar and Brimstone, will last as long as 60 years.”

And it's not always the timber that is the weak point, “Where cladding fails sooner, it is almost never the timber itself. In our experience, it comes down to the battening system or the wrong fixings”, shares Barnes.

He also suggests an alternative, “If you want maximum longevity with minimum maintenance, Brimstone cladding is worth a serious look. It is the specification choice for people who want to fit it and forget it.”

If you are looking to add new timber cladding or replace your old timber cladding, check out our timber cladding ideas for inspiration. An alternative to standard timber cladding is shou sugi ban, a traditional Japanese wood-burning technique that creates a dramatic black finish. To find out how much you can expect to pay for timber cladding (and other cladding options) in our house cladding costs guide.

A popular choice for finishing the outside of your roof-level extension, loft conversion cladding serves a dual purpose. As well as creating an aesthetic exterior that can contrast or complement your existing home, it also creates a weatherproof finish to protect the inside.

But, with a wide range of options available to choose from, how do you pick the right type of loft conversion cladding, are there any constraints on using it and what mistakes should you avoid when selecting the right finish?

Find out what a leading architect and director of a specialist loft conversion company advise, so you can be confident you make the right decisions regarding cladding materials for your loft conversion.

What to consider when choosing loft conversion cladding

While it's easy to fall in love with architecturally striking loft conversion ideas, where contemporary cladding for example is used to complete a stunning extension, choosing it isn't just about cherry-picking something you find visually appealing and hoping for the best.

Instead it's a balancing act between aesthetics, practicality, ensuring your loft conversion cladding works on your existing home, and doesn't disrupt the surrounding environment in a negative way.

All these elements need to be considered before making your final choice, and which order you tackle them in may come down to who you speak to first about your plans..

"It’s always a balance between aesthetics and performance but if I had to prioritise, the practical considerations come first," says Rob Wood, Simply Loft’s director. "Cladding isn’t just about how the loft looks; it plays a key role in weatherproofing, insulation performance, longevity and maintenance.

"That said, appearance absolutely matters," he continues. "A loft conversion should feel like a natural extension of the existing property. The right cladding can either help it blend in seamlessly or create a striking architectural feature, depending on the homeowner’s goals and the style of the house."

So what does an architect say when asked how do you choose loft conversion cladding?

"There are many practical materials for loft conversion cladding, but our approach starts with considering what will work best within the existing built context – reference found materials on the original building – and what materials work best to reinforce the design ideas we are pursuing in the scheme," says Tom Shelswell, senior associate at William Tozer Associates.

"For example, often a loft conversion will for part of a larger house refurbishment and extension project, and we might choose materials that complement or match new elements found elsewhere (rear ground floor extensions, for example)," he continues. "It can be interesting to pick up on background materials found in the original building for example, and foreground these in the new loft conversion too."

Types of loft conversion cladding

When it comes to house cladding ideas, there are a whole host of options to choose from, but are you faced with the same variety when selecting loft conversion cladding?

There are certainly plenty of choices, says Rob Wood, listing the following as candidates for your mood board:

• Tile hanging (clay or concrete) – very common, especially when matching existing roof tiles
• Natural slate or artificial slate – great for traditional homes
• Timber cladding – popular for a contemporary look, though it requires maintenance
• uPVC cladding – low-maintenance and cost-effective, but less premium aesthetically
• Composite cladding – durable and increasingly popular due to low upkeep
• Zinc or aluminium – often used in modern designs for a sleek finish
• Render systems – sometimes used on larger loft conversions

However, there's also some practicalities to take into mind, not least of all the fact that your loft conversion cladding won't be as easy to access as a ground level single storey extension exterior for example.

"Taking a typical dormer roof extension, these are most often a timber-frame structure. You are therefore most likely to use a sheet material (for example, small format slate tiles or large-format zinc metal cladding) to act as the rainscreen or exterior protection," says Tom Shelswell, "or breathable waterproof membrane over an insulated timber frame.

"Robust materials are essential given the exposed nature of the location, and difficult access for future maintenance. The weight of the material is also a key consideration given it’s location," he adds, "with lighter-weight materials more favourable, in order to minimise the impact on structural loads, and to ease the installation of the cladding."

Ultimately, as well as aesthetics and practicalities, "the loft conversion cladding choice depends on budget, property style, planning constraints, and how much maintenance the homeowner is prepared to commit to," notes Rob Wood.

Matching your cladding and type of loft conversion

But what about the type of loft conversion you are building? From velux loft conversions to dormer loft conversions and mansard loft conversions there's a whole host of shapes, designs and formats to consider too. Does one type of loft conversion cladding work better than another or is there a one size fits all approach?

Both our experts agree that it's important to not take a uniform approach to choosing your loft conversion cladding. The reality is while you may love how a certain type of cladding looks, it might not suit your proposed rooftop room.

"The proportions and massing of the loft conversion need to be considered, and these will determine the format of the cladding," explains Tom Shelswell. "Larger-format cladding may work better on more complex and larger forms, to simplify the appearance and avoid looking to heavy or cluttered for example.

"Mansard roof conversion will often be required to match the existing roof finish of the host property and surrounding area too," he adds, "whereas a standalone dormer extension outside of a conservation area may be clad in a material that treats the structure as a new, modern intervention, whilst remaining sympathetic to the host property."

"Dormer loft conversions often use lightweight cladding systems because of structural considerations," continues Rob Wood. "Materials like hanging tiles, slate, or composite cladding are common choices for dormer cladding.

"In conservation areas or on period properties however," he notes, "we often match the existing materials, such as natural slate or clay tiles, to ensure the dormer doesn’t look out of place."

Planning and building regulations considerations

Of course, as well as practicalities and personal preferences, when it comes to any type of house extension idea or exterior makeovers, there's also the issue of planning permission and loft conversion building regulations to take into account. Choosing your loft conversion cladding isn't just a decision made by you, your architect and or contractor. There will likely be other parties involved in the process too.

"Planning considerations can heavily influence your choice," confirms Rob Wood. "If the loft conversion falls under permitted development, there are rules about materials being “similar in appearance” to the existing house. That can limit how adventurous you can be.

"In conservation areas or on listed buildings, material choice becomes even more restricted," he warns, "and may require specific approvals.

"From a building regulations perspective, fire performance is also a big consideration – especially in attached or semi-detached loft conversions," continues Rob. "Certain cladding materials must meet fire resistance standards, and that’s something we always factor in at the design stage."

So how can you arm yourself with some foresight on whether your loft conversion cladding will be under extra scrutiny?

"The main planning considerations will depend on the approach taken and location of the property," explains Tom Shelswell, expanding on the points Rob makes about permitted development.

"Outside of conservation areas, on single dwelling houses, you might look to construct a roof extension through permitted development rights, which require that the materials used are similar to those found in the construction on the exterior of the existing building.

"Within conservation areas, where the permitted development rights for roof extension are removed, the context and character of the surrounding area needs to be considered in more detail, and an approach agreed with the local authority conservation officer."

In general, regardless of the type of house and loft conversion you are considering, it's always best to contact your local planning officer in advance and discuss your ideas. You can also take a look at the surrounding properties and see what cladding is used on any loft conversions, as this may give you some indication of what will and won't be signed off.

Loft conversion cladding mistakes to avoid

Given your loft conversion cladding will impact your loft conversion costs, and getting it wrong could lead to both cost and time delays, it's also important when planning any home improvement project to be aware of the pitfalls before you start.

So how do the experts recommend you avoid making loft conversion cladding mistakes?

"As touched upon above, a key consideration is making sure you understand the robustness of the material," says Tom Shelswell. "Timber and painted finishes need to be well-prepared and protected to minimise the ongoing maintenance requirements. Exposure to sun and rain also require materials that are not prone to discolouration or weathering in an inappropriate manner that might affect the appearance or performance of the material," he adds.

Rob Wood also encourages clients to consider similar issues, encouraging them not to be swayed by cost, neglecting the reality of longevity in the process.

"One of the biggest mistakes we see is homeowners choosing purely on cost without considering long-term performance and maintenance," he confirms. "Another mistake is failing to think about how the dormer will look from different angles. A loft conversion is highly visible, especially from the rear, and poor material choices can make it look like an afterthought rather than a well-designed extension."

Still in the process of deciding if a loft conversion is the best way to extend a home? Find out what experts say in the loft conversion vs extension debate, and if you're working to a tight time schedule, make sure you also understand how long does a loft conversion take to ensure any loft conversion cladding choices you make, won't impact your timeline.

All too often, not enough thought is given to dormer cladding ideas, with homeowners focussing all their efforts on the new internal spaces they'll be creating in their loft conversion instead. Big mistake.

While dormer loft conversions and dormer windows can both really enhance the external appearance of a house, the wrong choice of cladding can utterly ruin the whole thing.

With this in mind, we're here to bring you some beautiful cladding ideas for your dormer, no matter what style of house you live in, from those designed to catch the eye to designs that blend in seamlessly.

1. Create a distinctive addition with zinc cladding

There are so many reasons why using zinc cladding for a dormer is a good idea, not least that it can last up to 60 years.

In addition, it is low maintenance, won't rust (ideal for coastal properties) and offers tonnes of design flexibility – not to mentioned the fact that it suits both modern and traditional properties.

This project, by Delve Architects, features a strikingly modern dormer loft conversion, clad in zinc, which has been paired with a timeless Crittal-style window.

2. Match clay roof tiles with a tile hung dormer

If you want your loft conversion to look like a seamless extension of the rest of your home, it can be a good idea to use the same materials for your cladding as those on the roof.

Both clay tile hanging and slates are good for this. While handmade clay tiles can be an expensive option, machine-made versions offer a more cost effective route, while some concrete replicas will also look surprisingly convincing when viewed from below.

This project, by Absolute Lofts, manages to both tie in with the existing house as well as looking modern thanks to the choice of windows.

3. Pair modern grey windows with a slate dormer

Slate is a brilliant, cost-effective, option for cladding a dormer.

"When it comes to dormer cladding, the key is to strike a balance between the look, durability and planning compliance," points out Rob Wood, MD at Simply Loft, the company responsible for the above project. "We often recommend materials like slate tile or zinc cladding for a sleek, modern look that ages well and requires minimal maintenance."

You should be aware that not all slate roofs are created equal. Take care to check where your slate originated as not all will be suited to the UK climate.

4. Use Shou Sugi Ban for a low maintenance option

Timber cladding offers a warmth and beauty that can be hard to achieve with other materials, yet it isn't without its issues – mainly that it requires some maintenance to stay looking its best.

For this reason, Shou Sugi Ban, or charred timber, is a brilliant option. For this project, designed by Bloom Architects, it made so much sense.

"The cladding was charred on-site by the principal contractor," explains Bloom's director, Chris Jackson. "We discovered that Yakisugi (sometimes referred to in the west as ‘Shou Sugi Ban’)is quite complex and ought to be done by a specialist if following traditional methods.

"We especially like it because it is an environmentally friendly alternative to timber preservation and, paradoxically, improves the fire-resistant properties of the timber."

5. Withstand the elements with lead cladding

Lead has been used for centuries as a cladding material and for covering flat roofs.

While it is not the most budget-friendly option, it offers a timeless beauty and, if installed correctly, should last for a great many years – in fact, lead has one of the longest lifespans of any roofing and cladding material.

Despite being expensive (and not the most environmentally friendly) choice, when used to clad small dormers, it looks very striking.

6. Consider red zinc to create a showstopper

One of the best things about metal cladding, and in particular zinc, is that it comes in a variety of colours other than the commonly-seen dark grey.

For this project, by Fraher & Findlay, red zinc was used to clad the new dormer, which has been topped with a sedum roof.

"Zinc is weatherproof, corrosion-resistant and is not degraded by sunlight, meaning it has a long life and is fairly low in maintenance," explains Rob Wood. "Another plus is that most zinc cladding is 100% recyclable."

7. Embrace the weathering process with steel

If you want your new dormer loft conversion to stand out for all the right reasons, you should seriously consider using steel as a cladding material, as was done for this eye-catching project, by DEDRAFT.

"The original red facing brickwork led us to lean towards a material that patinates and weathers over time allowing it to embed itself into its environment," explain the architects. "Following much research, we settled on the most appropriate material to achieve this aesthetic – weathering steel, also known as Corten®"

The result is a striking structure that will only get better with time.

8. Enjoy design flexibility with fibreglass concrete

If you want incredible flexibility from your cladding ideas in terms of design, form and colour, look no further than fibreglass reinforced concrete.

For this project, by DEDRAFT, öko skin from Rieder was chosen. Unlike timber cladding, the product never needs to be painted or sanded and it is supplied in slats which are easy to install.

In addition to timber-look panels, it also comes in those that resemble bricks and stone making it suitable for a wide range of projects.

9. Let in the light with a fully-glazed front

If you want to ensure your new loft conversion ideas are flooded with natural light, a fully-glazed dormer might just be the way to go.

If you love the idea of a glazed facade, do consider that you will need to look into how to prevent overheating. Depending on the orientation of your loft conversion, this might not be the best option.

Additionally, think about how you will ensure privacy – and remember too that all that glass will need regular cleaning to stay looking its best.

10. Create contrast with your cladding choice

If you want to ensure your new dormer loft conversion really stands out as a modern addition to your home, using a cladding material that is in complete contrast to the those used elsewhere on your home is a great idea.

This project, by Simply Loft, has been clad in slate and teamed with dark grey windows and doors, giving it a decidedly modern look.

Note, that despite the contrast between old and new, the form and proportions of the windows has been mirrored.

FAQs

Which is the most expensive dormer cladding?

If you are keen for your loft conversion costs not to spiral, you are probably wondering what each type of cladding is going to cost.

Zinc and lead cladding tend to be the most expensive options, with zinc coming in at around £100-£150/m².

Timber and slate are both more budget-friendly choices.

Don't forget, that a dormer isn't your only option – there are lots of other types of loft conversion to consider to ensure your new addition suits your house perfectly.

Emily and partner Jack had ideas for building an extension as soon as they viewed their east London Victorian terrace. In fact, they sketched out some initial ideas on the back of a pub menu straight after they had visited the property.

The house needed extensive renovation work, but that didn’t put them off as they were looking for a project, plus it had a 30 metre-long south-facing garden.

“It actually had a huge amount of space, lovely high ceilings and still had a lot of the original features, which really appealed to us,” says Emily. “There had been lots of people living there previously and little work had been done lately, so it needed a facelift,” adds Jack.

Getting stuck into the challenge

The couple received the keys to their new home at the start of 2021 and moved in straight away. They did a lot of work in the first year to make the home liveable – removing wallpaper and carpets, ripping out a very old jacuzzi bath and painting, while plans were drawn up for the rear extension as well as a loft conversion to add two additional bedrooms and a shower room.

“We also had to take out a leaking shower that the previous owners had remarkably installed into the downstairs hallway, which was causing a damp problem,” explains Emily. “To top it all, the roof started leaking in the final weeks before we moved out for the build, so the construction work started just in time.

However, having a whole year in the house really gave us a good sense of the space and an understanding of how light moves around the building. This really helped to inform us about what we wanted from the new design.”

Finding an architect

It made sense for Emily and Jack to do the construction work for the loft conversation at the same time as the rear extension while they were working with their architect and builder.

“We considered a number of architects on the RIBA website who worked on projects we liked in the area,” says Emily. “Studio Manifest was founded and run by a mutual friend Ben Powell and we really liked their portfolio, pragmatic approach and focus on sustainability.”

“The architect came up with drawings for the whole house including wiring diagrams and window/fenestration drawings throughout,” says Jack. “The first floor of the original house layout was to be altered to make a larger bathroom and make space for the loft extension. We vaulted the ceiling in the master bedroom and lowered the first-floor ceiling.”

Drawing up plans

The couple already had ideas on what they wanted to achieve in terms of the layout. The house is very narrow and the only access to the garden was through the kitchen. Extending into the side return would make the back of the house feel wider and create a stronger connection with the garden as well as improve access to it.

“We were also looking to modernise the house – both its building fabric and energy efficiency and also make the layout and flow of the house better suited to a 21st-century modern family. As we entertain a lot, we wanted to use the new space to create a large communal kitchen/living space."

Forging relationships

Planning permission went through fairly smoothly and was achieved in around six months. The couple has a good relationship with both adjoining neighbours and kept them informed and updated on the schedule as much as possible – the only slight hiccup was when the party wall agreements were held up because the structural engineering drawings were late.

When it came to the building work, Emily and Jack appointed Omni-Construction, not before approaching two other builders for quotes. “Studio Manifest had previously worked with Omni-Construction so we knew they were reliable. We also chose them based on cost and their availability.”

Saving money on labour

Emily and Jack were pretty hands on and the couple did as much as they could themselves to help keep costs down. “Jack has some experience in project and contract management and we even did some of the non-structural demolition ourselves before the build started,” says Emily.

“We’ve also done as much of the finishing as we could in terms of decorating. Completing the house in stages since the main construction work finished has certainly helped with cash flow.”

The building work took seven months and during this time the couple stayed in a relative’s flat nearby, which luckily was vacant during the time of the build. Once the bulk of the construction work had been completed, they moved back while the loft was still being fitted out and set about redecoration.

Compromising on big-ticket items

The couple managed to stay very close to their budget but had to compromise on a number of things to achieve this, such as opting for an off-the-shelf loft staircase rather than a bespoke one.

“We would have also liked to have included solar panels and an air source heat pump but couldn’t stretch to those,” says Emily. “But we installed wood wool fibre insulation and tried to use low embodied carbon materials and reused materials from the house, where possible. We recycled the timber roof joists that we took out for the loft extension to build vegetable beds and a green roof helps to retain water and improve biodiversity.”

Decisions on the exterior

Emily and Jack explored different types of exterior timber cladding that would reduce embodied carbon and complement the original Victorian housing stock, eventually opting for Siberian Larch over Shou Sugi Ban, as they felt it would provide a lighter, more natural look.

“The architect recommended installing drop-down beams over the triangle windows in the back room and windows in the loft conversion,” says Emily. “However, we were concerned that these might feel like bars over the windows from the inside, so we decided not to proceed with this idea. They work well over the back room windows, though, and provide wonderful light and shadows in there on sunny days.”

Our favourite spaces

One outstanding feature of their project is the internal courtyard in the original side return, which they included to help provide light and airflow to the double reception at the front of the house, which is accessed via a set of French doors. “It did make designing the kitchen a lot trickier,” says Emily. “But we felt it added more interest to the shape of the back room rather than creating one large rectangular room.”

Local company Plykea provided the kitchen fronts and the bespoke joinery for the kitchen island as well as a pantry-style cupboard. The worktops are a combination of stainless steel and a rubberised cork material.

“We came across the rubberised cork while eating at one of our favourite restaurants in Margate and both fell in love with its bar top material,” she explains.

“After some research, we discovered that the restaurant’s furniture designer, Herb Palmer, lived locally. He doesn’t usually do residential projects but kindly offered to create a custom island top for us as he had some of the rubberised cork left over.”

Although to all intents and purposes, the project is complete, Emily and Jack see it as an ongoing project.

“We are considering insulating underneath the floorboards downstairs where a lot of heat escapes – or even taking them up, installing underfloor heating and replacing them with the quarry tiles used in the patio to connect inside and out more closely.”

For advice on how to keep your energy bills down look at our guide on how to insulate a house.

After having looked after her elderly and infirm parents for many years, retired architect, Susi, was looking for a fresh start. Her current home wasn’t suitable for a renovation or remodel, so she decided to search for a site on which to build a new house.

“I wanted a home that was sustainable, comfortable and would look after me,” says Susi. The design therefore would need to be considerate of any future life changes which might impact Susi in the years to come.

Another huge want of Susi's was for her new home to achieve Passivhaus standards. A highly prized accolade, which would require an architect who was well-versed in designing to this standard.

Finding the perfect plot

“When I mentioned to some close friends that I wanted to do a self-build with space for a weaving studio, they told me they were interested in buying a property with existing planning permission for an ‘eco’ home on the site. So we entered into a parallel purchase.

"They bought the house, which I rented for the duration of the building programme, and then I bought the site from them. We all exchanged contracts and completed at the same time.”

The sloping site has views across rolling countryside, which Susi wanted to maximise without impacting on her neighbours' views. This was particularly important to her as the original design that had been granted planning permission had blocked these, but had been passed at appeal.

To overcome this, Susi, along with her friend and fellow retired architect, Marc Medland, designed a house where the roofline sits at the ground level of the neighbouring building.

“As the site already had permission for a house, there were no planning issues at all and the new proposal was welcomed by the neighbours,” she says.

Achieving Passivhaus standards

The duo designed the two-storey house – with an adjacent single-storey studio – taking it to the planning permission stage. “We saw the sloping site as a positive feature in that it gives the house environmental shelter and privacy and provides robust thermal protection,” says Susi. “Although the neighbours are quite close, it feels private and sits modestly into the hillside.”

Through her teaching at Sheffield University School of Architecture, Susi was familiar with HEM Architects and knew of their expertise in Passivhaus home design. She contacted director Paul Testa at an early stage before submitting the planning application to ensure that the design would be feasible for Passivhaus certification.

Following planning approval, she appointed them and JAM Structural Design to complete the project. “I was very much aware that the self-build project management was their remit and that something of this complexity was more than I would be able to commit to.”

Planning for the future

For Susi, it was essential that her eco house could be adapted to deal with any potential life changes such as diminishing mobility or care needs, so movement around the building is generous and gentle.

“The openings are wide as are the internal and external stairs, and the thresholds are level,” she says. “There is also an allocated area on the first floor that could take a lift, should it ever be required.”

The stone for the spine wall was sourced locally and was chosen to reference the dry stone walls that are so prominent in the area. Other raw materials include the precast concrete external walls, which are visible in the lower rooms of the house and in the studio, and the floors are a sealed concrete screed.

“I wanted the house to feel comfortable and welcoming so the finishes and colour are natural and warm,” says Susi.

Standout features

From the driveway, the house appears as an unassuming single-storey black box, but while modest in scale it is generous spatially. The main entrance is at first-floor level where there are two bedrooms, one of which is a multifunctional space. “It can also be used as a place to exhibit my work,” explains Susi.

The timber cladding is Siberian larch, which is charred using the process known as shou sugi ban. The house has been named Sort Trae, which means ‘Black Wood’ in Danish and is a reference to the Viking roots of the area.

Stairs lead down to the ground floor where the space opens up to reveal a large kitchen and dining area with a living area and study on the other side of a handcrafted sandstone spine that forms the centrepiece of the house.

Controlling the interior temperature

Thanks to the considered design, every room in the house reveals expansive valley views while being protected from the weather by the building’s high-performance envelope – the mass of the building absorbs and holds the heat, emitting it in the evening.

Triple-glazed windows and rooflights as well as deep reveals help to balance summer heat gain and winter losses. “The air test achieved an air change of 0.54 ACH (air changes per hour), which is well within the 0.6 ACH required to meet the Passivhaus Standard, ” says architect Paul Testa.

Overheating is reduced by means of internal blinds in the upper rooms and the house is naturally cross-ventilated. “The stairwell acts as a vertical stack, which pulls cool air up through the house to the north elevation and through the upper rooms,” Susi explains.

Tackling the weather conditions

“The site is exceptionally windy, so overheating has not proved to be an issue so far. During winter, when the external temperature is below freezing, but the sun is shining, the solar gain means that the internal temperature can reach 20 degrees with no heating.”

Both the house and studio successfully fulfilled the requirements for Passivhaus airtightness standards. “This was critical from the very start of the project and the builder pre-tested the building for any potential leaks before it was tested officially,” says Susi.

Obstacles along the way

The project ran fairly smoothly, considering it was carried out during Covid restrictions, with the only main delay at the beginning during the groundworks. “I was aware that lead times were likely to be longer than usual and made decisions regarding the procurement of materials in good time,” Susi explains.

“It was a wet and stormy winter, though, and this interrupted some of the work. On Boxing Day there was a gale-force wind and I found myself chasing slabs of insulation the size of mattresses down the driveway. Only when I’d finally managed to tie them down could I laugh about it!”

Another element of the house that proved somewhat of a challenge was the suspended precast concrete stair that is situated between the house and the weaving studio. Part of it forms a section of roof to the studio so it needed to be insulated and watertight as well as have Passivhaus ventilation.

“When it was being installed, by crane, it swung alarmingly over the roof of the neighbouring garage, but thankfully it slotted into space without a problem.”

“I would never change the experience of building my own home,” says Susi, adamantly. “It’s comfortable, hospitable, calm and beautiful – and it has my physical and mental wellbeing at its heart.”

If you're interested in building a similar project, our guide to what it's like to live in a Passivhaus home has some great insights on what to expect if you go down this route.

Living in a property with no gas central heating was one of the main targets for Peter and Liz Bosson when they decided to build a new home. They adopted a self-sufficient approach, aiming for an airtight structure that wouldn’t leak heat.

They wanted the replacement self build of their beachfront property near Chichester to be future-proofed with clever design features that look beautiful while remaining functional.

After selling their family company Peter and Liz had some money to invest in building a new holiday home to replace the one they had, which was falling apart. “It had been expensive to run and that’s why we chose to build an ultra-low-energy house,” explains Peter. “We also wanted to challenge ourselves and see whether we really could do it. Looking back, it seems like the best decision we could have made.”

Formulating the new plan

The original house was badly designed and had poor use of space. Architecturally the circulation wasn’t well thought-out so around a third of the space was lost.

The couple wanted a four-bedroom house, with bedrooms all of the same size, that could hold 10 people if it needed to. The beach is just a stone's throw away from the front of the property, with completely uninterrupted views, so maximising this in the design for their coastal house seemed a no-brainer.

Researching the design for inside and out

The project has been six years in the making as the couple invested a lot of time researching the types of building methods and self-build routes that could help them achieve what they wanted. ”We went to building shows for research and slowly it became clear to us what we needed to do.”

They worked with Milan-based architect Caroline King on the initial drawings and designs and then engaged Hatch + Mason to help them with detailing the interior elements.

The team advised on everything for the project, from the installation of the insulated beam and block foundation and posi-joists for the floor structures, which enabled them to run ducting and other services through, to the fitting of the bespoke contemporary picture rail that runs through the property.

Opening up the space

The couple went against the idea of an upside-down house, which is a popular style in the area. “We wanted our design brief to connect us to the landscape and leave the doors open in the summer so people can come in and out of the communal areas freely,” says Peter.

“People are able to have privacy when they want it and can come together, too. It was a brief that everybody in the family contributed to," he adds.

The kitchen design features reclaimed timber that has been stained and waxed. Eight people carried in the concrete worktop and patinated it down. It’s proving itself to be a robust material.

“We decided to have drawers instead of cupboards so that we can more easily see everything we have in there," says Peter. "We all like to cook here and there’s room for us all to be in here at once.”

Smart design for future living

Once the working drawings were established, questions were raised about the couple's choices. “For instance, we were asked whether the staircase design is in the correct position because I wanted to be able to install a lift in the future,” says Peter.

This led them to install a plywood flight that has been bolted together and can be removed and reconfigured to make space for a lift. Other smart home design features include the picture rail that runs through the house.

“We hang our pictures up and can move them around the property whenever we feel like it. This way the pictures don’t start to feel like wallpaper,” says Peter. “It’s how dado rails were traditionally used in Georgian properties.”

A super-speedy build

Construction only took one week as the structure was a prefabricated construction system done off-site. “The first thing we did was to make it airtight, which is the most effective way to stop heat pouring out. The project only slowed down when we started the internal fit-out with the wiring, plastering and tiling,” says Peter.

“We also changed our mind on a few things, such as the layout of the bathroom, which delayed the timings a little."

Energy-efficient choices

“We went for a gas boiler alternative," explains Peter. 'There is electric underfloor heating that’s powered by solar PV, but it’s rarely ever on." The prefabricated four-bedroom property also has an MVHR system, which helps retain heat and makes the building work efficiently by removing moist air from the building and drawing fresh air back in, which is then passed over a heat exchanger. “The house basically looks after itself. It’s 20 degrees year-round,” says Peter.

Having an abundance of glazing ideas, the Bossons’ house benefits from thermal glazing, which helps to negate any reliance of conventional heating. With such glazing, it’s less that the glass has special properties and more about how the window pane is constructed – basically, whether it is double or triple-glazed.

"The thermal efficiency of glass sealed triple glazed units has improved so much that the frames are now the least efficient part of the window – whereas once upon a time it was the glazing," says Edward Stobart, sales manager at IDSystems.

Permanent home

As work was completed before the start of the pandemic Peter and Liz were able to move into the property and use it full-time when the country went into lockdown. This had always been a weekend home as they actually lived in Greenwich, but during lockdown their daughter moved into that house while her house was being built and the couple have remained here ever since.

The couple have received mixed responses about the modern style. “Some people are very positive and some ask: ‘why did you build a box and clad it in pine’,” says Peter. “The timber cladding is Sweet English Chestnut, we bought some trees from the South Downs, which have weathered down really nicely."

Creating such a contemporary self-build has certainly paid off for the couple. "The house fits like an old pair of slippers, it’s not imposing like a grand period property, which is exactly what we wanted," says Peter. "It feels like you can walk in and put your feet up."

Arbor House, situated in the suburbs of Aberdeen, is thoughtfully designed to put an eco-friendly conscience at its core.

With its striking board-marked concrete walls, larch cladding, eco-friendly heating systems and a 'secret garden', Arbor House offers a different look to traditional eco homes.

Designed by Brown & Brown Architects and built by Coldwells Build it combines innovative design with energy efficiency for a unique home.

Bespoke board-marked concrete

One of Arbor House’s defining elements is its board-marked concrete, used extensively inside and outside the home.

When a concrete specialist withdrew from the project, Coldwells Build’s team devised their own method of hand-pouring and setting concrete on-site.

The result is strikingly textured surfaces that capture the grain of the wooden moulds, adding depth and character to the design to provide an example of an inspiring eco home.

Ross Booth, Director of Coldwells Build, noted: “This home is a testament to our team’s innovation, attention to detail, and dedication to craftsmanship. The hand-poured concrete exemplifies the care and ingenuity we bring to every build.”

Larch cladding and 'secret garden' blend house into environment

The house seamlessly blends into its surroundings with its larch cladding, green roofing, and retained stone walls from the original site structure.

These elements create a natural aesthetic that respects the local landscape. An inviting entrance colonnade leads to a secluded “secret garden,” a tranquil space shielded by the building itself.

This design creates a private haven, blurring the lines between rural retreat and urban home, while ensuring the property is both peaceful and functional.

Spiralised central staircase at the heart of the house

Inside Arbor House, the central, spiralised staircase serves as a focal point of expert craftsmanship on show.

Designed with clean lines and natural wooden materials, the staircase embodies the home’s balance of modernity and warmth.

Its open, airy structure enhances the flow of light throughout the interior and emphasises the minimalist elegance that defines the entire property.

Eco conscience at the forefront of the project

At its core, Arbor House is an eco-conscious home. A ground source heat pump provides efficient heating, while the ventilation is done using a mechanical ventilation heat recovery (MVHR) system ensures optimal indoor air quality.

Coldwells Build also prioritises airtight construction, reducing energy loss and maximising the efficiency of the home’s heating systems.

Combined with the green roofs, which enhance insulation and integrate the structure into its environment, these features reflect a forward-thinking approach to sustainable living.

The homeowners, deeply impressed by the final result, remarking: “From the day Brown & Brown showed us the design, we loved everything about it. They’ve delivered a house that takes our breath away every day. It’s truly a wonderful place to live.”

A father claims he installed external wall insulation to prevent mould from spreading in his house, but he has now been given six months to remove it by the council.

The man from Corsham says he is concerned for his family's health due to the black mould that he tried to get rid off through other methods but failed so tried to improve the home's insulation.

We look at why the council rejected the man's application for the external wall insulation and whether this was the best option the man had to stop the mould.

Father claims he was trying to treat the mould

To address existing damp and mould issues the father installed insulation on the front of their home before rendering and cladding the house.

He claimed the insulation effectively resolved a mould problem that had persisted for over two decades. He said: “We’ve done all of the things that you do, the anti-mould treatment, frequently applied the mould-proof paint…

“We’d consistently failed to do anything more than keep it under control in the whole time that we’d lived here.”

Expressing worries about the potential return of mould and its effects on his children, Mr Stephenson emphasised the need for collective action to address similar issues in the community.

He added: “My desire would be to say, well, look, we've got streets of houses like this that are all cold and damp and that are all emitting tons of carbon... How are we collectively as a society going to solve this problem?"

Council said cladding was in breach of planning

Wiltshire Council have ordered for Mr Stephenson to remove the rendered cladding from his home after the planning permission for the work had expired.

Initially granted in 2009, the permission included works for an extension and replacing the exterior render of the house. 

While Mr Stephenson completed the extension as planned, the rendering of the original home was delayed. Nearly a decade later, Mr Stephenson completed the work and subsequently applied for retrospective planning permission.

Wiltshire Council rejected this however, as they ruled: "By reason of its scale and appearance, the colouration, detailing and proportions, the proposed development is highly unsympathetic and will harm the Corsham Conservation area."

They added that the “additional layer means that the walls project further than the eaves of the roof and the coping stones on the verges” and as a result of the vivid colouring" the home "stands out".

Mr Stephenson claimed he informed the council of his willingness to alter the colouring and appearance of the cladding, yet this was also rejected.

Was the external wall insulation the best solution?

External wall insulation can provide relief from damp and mould but was potentially not the best solution to solving the issue.

Ian Rock, Chartered surveyor and Director of Rightsurvey, stated: "It appears that the homeowner has lined the main walls externally with rendered insulation (EWI). Here the works appear to have been carried out without planning consent specifically for EWI which is significantly thicker than simply re-rendering.

"EWI needs to be carefully designed to overcome the inherent problem that it significantly increases the thickness of the main walls which normally requires the roof to be extended along with alterations to guttering and eaves detailing etc.  The photos suggest that the necessary roof detailing has not been carried out.

"Houses of this age generally have solid brick main walls which tend to be colder than more modern cavity walls. This can potentially make them more at risk of issues like condensation and mould. But there are many factors that contribute to mould and damp including occupants’ lifestyles."

Rock suggested an alternative solution to reduce the risk of damp and mould would be to improve main wall insulation by lining the walls internally (IWI), which would not have required planning permission, and he explains how to do this in his Haynes Victorian House Manual.

In Devon's picturesque landscape, a remarkable transformation has unfolded as this stone cottage has undergone an incredible timber-frame extension.

Despite its unassuming size, this extension "vastly improved the usability and flexibility of the existing cottage" as well as the eco-performance of the cottage with its contemporary innovation and use of interesting materials.

The 69m2 extension called "Made of Sand" (named after a historic sandpit the property sits on), provides an example of how building an extension can drastically alter your home for the better.

Adding a modern layer to history

The architects, Studio Weave, substituting a worn-down garage and workshop, in order to adopt an L-shaped wrap around extension positioned at the rear of the existing house, where a one-storey kitchen takes its place. 

The two-storey extension ascends along its gable end, featuring a ground-floor bedroom and an upper-level living room. 

Large glazed openings connect the interior to the picturesque landscape, framing views of the surrounding Blackdown Hills.

Thermal performance improved 'enormously'

The collaboration between the builder, joiner, and architect is evident in the extension's construction, which not only created a comfortable living space, but also helped improve the energy saving potential of the house. 

The heavily insulated timber frame extension, both exposed internally and externally, lends the new spaces a strong and distinctive character.

Je Ahn, founding director of Studio Weave, stated his favourite feature of the house was "warmth and craftsmanship" but also "how the new extension vastly improved the usability and flexibility of the existing cottage while increasing its thermal performance enormously".

Handmade terracotta pamment tiles and red western cedar cladding used throughout

A warm palette of materials ties the old and new structures together seamlessly.

Handmade terracotta pamment tiles (reddish-brown clay tiles) and rust-coloured clay plaster walls are found throughout the extension. Douglas fir infill panels serve a dual purpose, forming wall linings and creating built-in shelving and window seats.

Externally, red western cedar timber cladding, adorned with a playful geometric design, provides high durability as well as resistance to decay.

Weathering a silvery hue, the cottage extension now sits within the landscape, whilst blending with the existing stone cottage.

Project shows 'why you should employ an architect'

The success of "Made of Sand" lies in the collaborative approach taken by the client, local craftsmen (including a cob building specialist), and the architect.

The project won the RIBA South West Small Project of the Year Award 2023, for an extension built for under £500,000, with the House of the Year jury stating: "This project is a fantastic example of why you should employ an architect.

"The extension is not only successful in its own right, but offers huge benefit to the host cottage, massively reducing heat loss through the existing fabric. Materials and craft play a key role in anchoring Made of Sand in its setting."

A Lincolnshire self build on the site of an old quarry has gone onto the market for £1million.

The 'Glasshouse' is a four-bedroom home in Upgate, Louth, which uses a Mechanical Ventilation and Heat Recovery system (MVHR) as well as other eco-friendly features to provide an example of a contemporary self-build home.

The home was built by housing developer Alex Holdsworth, 40 – who has lived at the property for the last two years and who described the house as "like being at Center Parcs". Take a tour through the house and its features with us.

A 'perfect contemporary family' home

The Glasshouse combines construction materials like Siberian larch timber cladding, buff brickwork, and floor-to-ceiling windows and doors. 

It uses features such as a cantilevered first floor with outdoor seating and entertainment space, as well as a second floor with 360-degree glass walls and a balcony, from which the home gets its name.

Alex Holdsworth stated: "The setting and views are stunning, you can see so much and look out onto everything in the area.

"Louth is a very nice place with good schools and plenty to do, it's a very good town and the surrounding beauty makes it perfect for a contemporary family."

MVHR and solar panels help the home gain a 'B' EPC rating

An 'Airflow' MVHR system provides fresh air throughout the house by using bathroom and kitchen extractors.

It also recovers heat from the home to warm incoming air, contributing to the home's 'B' EPC rating, along with the assistance of photovoltaic solar panels and underfloor heating reducing energy bills.

White theme running throughout the home's features

The home's four bedrooms includes two en suites, with the master bedroom also including a dressing room.

The kitchen-diner includes a white marble kitchen island and leads onto the balcony area. The bathroom continues the white marble theme with white marbled walls and flooring.

Block-paved drive and triple garage with inbuilt gym

The property features gardens that blend into the hillside of the former quarry, offering an example of how to build on a sloping site.

Large trees at the back overhang the rear of the house, whilst a wide, block-paved driveway leads to the triple garage, which includes a gym, and the drive is bordered by raised gardens, enclosed with gabion walls.

The home has been listed at a guide price of £1million by estate agents Robert Bell & Company.

House cladding costs can take up a large part of any build or renovation budget so it is really important that you understand the kind of prices you are likely to be facing. 

House cladding is a term used for the process of adding a layer to the outside of a building. It can greatly enhance the appearance of your home and also provide valuable functional purposes — such as protecting your home from the adverse effects of weather and improving insulation. Types of cladding include timber, uPVC, stone, brick, render, composite, fibre cement, metal and tiling. 

Here, we look at the various costs involved, together with the factors that influence those costs and any potential issues that can impact costs in the longer term.

What are house cladding costs in 2023?

There are a multitude of different cladding materials and products on the market, with a variety of different qualities, installation methods and costs. The most common materials and average costs are set out in the table below as a guide. 

Once you’ve chosen a material type, there’s still a wide range of cost options to consider. You can get a basic cement render from around £10/m2, but expect to pay £30-£60/m2 for monocouche render and £40-70/m2 for the latest self-coloured silicon versions such as K-Rend or Parex.  

Timber cladding costs are equally variable – according to the wood and profile selected – with larch from £15 to £30/m2, western red cedar from £20 to £50/m2 and oak from £25 to £60/m2. 

Thermally modified woods (such as Thermowood) can offer good value for money at around £45/m2. They are generally cheaper than most hardwoods but have been heat treated to reduce moisture content, improve longevity, stability and resistance to rot etc. 

What is the cheapest external cladding material?

Softwood timber is one of the cheapest cladding materials (from around £8/m2). However, this price will be for rough sawn edged untreated timbers, which will require preparation (in the form of priming/undercoating), finishing (painting or staining depending on your preference) and ongoing maintenance (preservatives, re-painting). Initial material costs can therefore be misleading. Softwood can actually end up being more expensive than hardwood or uPVC cladding, because of its maintenance requirements — something worth bearing in mind when planning out your cladding ideas. 

The most cost-effective cladding option if you’re on a tight budget
is basic white uPVC cladding, as it’s comparatively more durable and lower maintenance over time. Your budget will naturally dictate the options available to you but if you can stretch a little on the material quality, it can cost you less in the long run.

Is render cheaper than cladding? 

We’ve already seen that both house rendering and cladding come with a wide range of pricing options, so it really depends on the quality of the material you are choosing within each category, and the look you want to capture. 

A high-end modern render will be more expensive than if you selected a basic white uPVC cladding. Similarly, a premium hardwood cladding will be far more expensive than a basic render. The final cost of each option will depend on numerous factors that are specific to your home. 

Ultimately, when looking at ‘which is cheaper’, you should always consider the overall cost including maintenance over time and not just the initial outlay. Consider the durability of the product — how long will it be before it will need replacing? What guarantees are available for longevity/colourfastness etc? What are the ongoing maintenance requirements, frequency and costs? 

Which type of cladding should I choose?

Your choice between render or cladding will be influenced by a number of factors. Each finish can produce entirely different aesthetic results and you need to select the one that works for you and importantly the area your home
is in — it’s always sensible to run your choice past your local planning authority, especially if your choice is dramatically different to the appearance of surrounding homes because you may be required to blend in. 

Your existing construction system will also be a factor. Traditional masonry construction or timber frame are equally suitable for cladding. However, if you are starting with a timber-framed building, rendering is still an option but there will be more work involved in comparison to rendering straight to a masonry construction. So costs will increase in that respect.

Your home’s location and exposure to the elements will also impact your choice of cladding material. For example, a coastal property will require a finish that can withstand corrosion. 

How much does cladding installation cost?

Installation costs will vary depending on who will be undertaking the work, the size and nature of the job required, their skills and experience. Your choice of material will also influence the cost of installation. 

At the more expensive end, should you choose stone cladding you can expect to pay around £250/£300 a day for a specialist such as a stonemason. Alternatively, if you’re opting for standard stretcher bond brickwork and engage a general bricklayer, you can expect a lower cost at around £200/day. 

For general trades, such as a plasterer, carpenter or general builder, you can expect to pay between £175 and £250/day. Be aware that not all trades have the skills required for all cladding types, so you will need to choose a material in order to identify the correct installer and establish costs.

Doing it yourself is certainly a cost-saving opportunity if you have the right skills and experience.

Which factors could push cladding costs up?

When calculating your likely house cladding costs, there are several factors that will strongly influence what you end up paying. These are:

• Size of house: Inevitably, the larger your home, the higher the cost to clad it. However, you may not want or need to clad your property in its entirety. You could consider a mix of timber/uPVC cladding with other exterior wall materials such as render or stone according to the elevations on show and your preferred design style. 
• Complexity of shape of house: A conventional square bungalow built on one level will naturally be cheaper to clad than a complex design with multiple elevations/extensions. More intricate installations will result in higher labour costs. Multiple storeys will also add to scaffolding costs.
• Listed building/protected house types: If your property is listed or within a protected area (National Park/AONB) you will not only have to add the cost of applying for planning permission but the permitted options are likely to be more expensive specialist materials requiring skilled application. 
• Preparation required: Removal of your home’s existing finish may reveal additional repair or preparatory works to be undertaken before the cladding works can commence, which can add to the total costs. 
• Existing construction system: In some cases, walls will need to be framed with either wood or steel studs to take the cladding. However, for timber-framed buildings you will need additional plywood or other type of board covering to strengthen the frame. This won’t be necessary if your home is of concrete or masonry structure. For timber-framed houses, the walls should also have a breather membrane which prevents moisture penetration, but again, this won’t be necessary if your home is brick built with cavity walls. 
• External wall insulation: If you are introducing EWI, this will increase costs. The insulating cladding boards will be fixed to the external walls first, before your chosen finish layer is applied (mineral or synthetic through-colour render or brick slips can also be used). The additional cost should be considered against the improved thermal performance, which is increasingly important with current energy prices.
• Required cladding finish: Always check if your pricing includes any finish required. Basic cement renders will require external masonry paint and your chosen timber may require staining, varnishing etc.  
• Access and scaffolding issues: Costs can increase if there are access issues which can lead to double handling of materials. Similarly, scaffolding labour costs can increase if your external walls are close to your boundaries as erecting scaffolding takes longer in narrow spaces.
• Number of window or door openings: This can impact cost in several ways, such as­ increased material costs due to level of wastage, but also increased labour costs as it will be more time consuming to deal with the intricate finishing required.
• DIY involvement: Costs can be saved if you are experienced and competent at DIY — basic timber or uPVC solutions are relatively easy to install. Remember that ‘amateur’ work can devalue your home, and if there’s anything wrong with the fitting it will be your responsibility. Note that some of the more specialist cladding products are only available on a ‘supply and fit’ basis in order to obtain the full guarantee offered. 
• Skilled labour: If your chosen cladding material requires specialist skills to fit it, this will push up the labour costs. Skilled stonemasons are expensive and becoming harder to source, which drives cost up even further. 
• Complexity of patterning:  If you’ve chosen a cladding material with pattern options, such as bricks, the more complex the detail, the more time it will take and so labour costs will be higher. 

A fusion of cultures led to the creation of a striking black flint-clad family home in the Chess Valley in the Cotswolds.

City workers Matt, from Australia, and Davi, from Zimbabwe, spent £800,000 on a bungalow in the picturesque suburb with an initial aim of refurbishing it.

However, the pair, who have two children, instead decided on a far more ambitious ‘black box’ design and tore down the original structure.

Matt and Davi decided to project manage the build themselves, despite never having  tried building a house before and working full-time, and set themselves a timeframe of nine months and a budget of £550,000 to realise their shared dream.

A flint clad 'House of Stones'

The three-bedroom self build property was designed to evoke the heritage of both their homelands, particularly through the flint cladding – which in Zimbabwe means ‘House of Stones’ in the Shona language.

The two-storey home was featured on Channel 4’s Grand Designs and host Kevin McCloud was visibly sceptical the ambitious project could be realised on-time and on-budget – and he was right.

Numerous setbacks, including two weeks of torrential rain, a sewer tunnel being found beneath the property, and spiralling material prices pushed the final cost to build the house up to £710,000 and the timetable to 17 months, almost double the amount of time the couple planned.

Davi admitted the process was ‘brutal’ and put pressure on the family, but the end result of a clean, airy, and sunlight-soaked modern design was dubbed ‘glorious, first-rate’ and a ‘multicultural international triumph’ by McCloud.

Dual level with a contemporary design

As the property lies on a steep slope, it is built on two levels leading to a circular pond overlooked by a spacious kitchen featuring lacquered birch ply. The property also features a small bridge to the weather metal front door.

The full wall windows and large skylights created a clean and sharp environment, but the ambitious and contemporary design ruffled feathers among some of the neighbours, with one calling the cladding ‘ugly’.

But McCloud praised the way the property forged a connection to Matt and Davi’s arid homelands and concluded: “If you don’t change, you wither.”

A community self build group is tackling the housing crisis in a rather unique way — by releasing blueprints to build tiny eco homes made from cannabis plants.

The idea is that with the blueprints, anyone will be able to build one of the homes, for the price of the materials. The total cost is estimated to come in at under £50,000
— around £30,000 for the shell, £10,000 for the interior fit out.

It's all part of a not-for-profit scheme by Common Knowledge designed to teach people "the lost art of building a house". The first blueprint drop, released at the end of this article, gives the blueprint of the structural design of the tiny homes, with the full blueprints and DIY guide to follow in the next few weeks (watch this space).

The design of the homes is deliberately simple and made from renewable and sustainable materials. Those who are still a little unsure have the added option of attending community build workshops that teach families the skills they might need, such as bricklaying, carpentry and welding. 

The hope is that these skills can be 'transferred' down the generations to help future self builders too.

1. They can be moved in minutes

Fionn Kidney, co-founder of Common Knowledge, explains that the home is entirely mobile, and while it does have legs for standing in situ, it can be made ready to move in 10 minutes.

The tiny homes are not a permanent structure so, in theory, there may be no need for planning permission in some areas, or a plot of land, aside from organising where you plan to keep your home. This does of course vary in places, so it's best to double check with your local planning authority.

The tiny self build homes also meet EU building standards.

2. Built sustainably with locally-grown hemp 

Hemp as a building material is officially a thing — and apparently an incredibly environmentally-friendly material, with a little celebrity sparkle too.

Film Director Steve Barron grows the hemp used in these tiny homes at one of only 20 legal cannabis hemp farms in the UK, at Margent Farm in Cambridgeshire. The farm is totally organic, with his farmhouse, designed by architect Paloma Gormley (daughter of Angel of the North sculptor Antony Gormley), naturally made from hemp too.

The hemp used in the tiny homes is a corrugated hemp-fibre cladding panel found on the exterior of the house. These natural panels are not only lightweight but they are also said to be fantastic insulators for both sound and heat. It is waterproof and can be used inside and outside.

Cannabis plants have a high cellulose content (60%-70%), making the hemp panels flexible and strong. The panels are bound together with a sugar-based resin made from agricultural waste like corn cob, oat hulls and bagasse. The hemp fibre panels lighten in colour like timber over time if exposed to UV.

Hemp is considered environmentally friendly due to its sequestered carbon, i.e. the cannabis plant captures carbon as it grows. This is environmentally friendly because it makes the embodied carbon (how much carbon is used) of a build far lower.

Margent Farm claims making their hemp panels generates 5.1 times less energy than aluminium panels, 2.6 times less energy than bitumen plastic panels and 1.5 times less energy than galvanised steel panels.

Other hemp building products include 'hempcrete', which is made from hemp mixed with lime.

3. Clever design to make use of 20m2 of space

The tiny eco houses make clever use of a fairly compact amount of space. Despite there being only 20m2 (6 metres long by 3 metres wide and 4.5 metres high) it still manages to have a living room area, kitchen, storage, private shower room and toilet as well as a bedroom tucked away in the loft upstairs. 

Common Knowledge has designed the tiny homes to be an affordable solution for individuals "caught in a rent trap" and giving those on a low income the ability to own their own home. They are also great for living in on site while building a larger home.

4. Marine ply kitchen units with an Iroko worktop

All the materials used to build the tiny homes are environmentally friendly, right down to the marine ply kitchen units and sustainably-sourced Iroko hardwood worktop. Fionn Kidney says throughout the project they struck a balance between "sustainability, affordability and conscious design".

And this Iroko worktop really does add a touch of luxury to the kitchen  with its dark hues and golden tones.

The flooring is natural linoleum, which is highly durable as well as practical for the multi-purpose space. There's no fridge in the kitchen due to being energy intensive, although there is space for one. Instead, Fionn Kidney explains that the tiny home is set up to use cold storage instead in the great outdoors.

The wiring in the tiny home is also dual purpose, being suitable for both off-grid living as well as mains connectivity. Off-grid, tiny home owners have the option of adding solar panels and solar batteries (to the roof or ground) or simply not using electric at all.

Everything is powered by a gas canister as it was the most flexible option for being off-grid, the same sort of one you get for your BBQ. 

5. Timber frame with raw cork insulation

The timber frame on the four existing tiny homes was built by Common Knowledge's community build team in Dublin, Ireland, overseen by experts. Each frame is made of planed pine and took around two days to construct, on top of a galvanised steel chassis (unfortunately there wasn't a more sustainable substitute for this due to safety), before being panelled out with plywood and handed over to professionals to complete the interior.

"Within two days of build school, the community builders saw the structure go up after cutting the wood and fixing it all together. It was really special and gave a sense of empowerment," explains Fionn Kidney.

The 50mm-thick raw cork was sourced as an alternative to man-made insulation and by leaving it exposed on the interior, it made the tiny home feel larger as well as providing surprisingly good acoustic absorption.

"One potential owner asked to bring her harp to test the acoustics. She did and said the acoustics were incredible as the cork absorbs the sound. Even if you are not playing a harp, it has a lovely feeling of peacefulness as there is no echo."

The cork is sustainable too and taken from trees without cutting them down. It was a little more expensive to include but the Common Knowledge team felt on balance it was worth the extra expense.

6. Large windows for solar gain and warmth

The windows in the tiny homes are double-glazed aluminium framed to allow plenty of light — but also solar warmth into the space. The natural cork insulation as well as the hemp panels and EPDM rubber roofing keeps this heat inside to provide warmth in the colder months.

"In terms of heating, we decided not to put a stove in and leave that for people to make their own decisions," said Fionn Kidney. "But due to the insulation the homes are pretty warm without it anyway."

The bedroom is situated up a ladder in the loft of the tiny home, with enough space for a kingsize bed and double side tables and shelving. 

There's also, surprisingly, a guest bed too as the sofa pulls out into a double bed with 100mm firm foam mattress.

7. Composting toilet for super eco living

Inside the tiny home's bathroom is a composting toilet, which was added as a great solution for something that is mobile, on land where there may not be infrastructure for drainage. It doesn't need any plumbing in, nor does it use electricity.

The toilet system, by German company Trobolo, cleverly separates the liquids from the solids with sawdust to be sprinkled on after use. 

The shower meanwhile is powered from the same gas canister used for the kitchen.

8. And free blueprints to build it yourself

The tiny home can be bought ready made for around £50,000 but there are only a few available. 

The maker of the tiny homes, Common Knowledge, has decided to also release the blueprints so that anyone can make the houses themselves for the price of the materials. They hope by making the blueprints "opensource" for these relatively affordable homes, more people will be able to escape the rent trap.

The first release includes the structural drawings, but a fuller blueprint release in the next few weeks (watch this space) will include a list of materials, recommended suppliers and a DIY guide.

Those who aren't comfortable with their building skills can also sign up to one of Common Knowledge's build schools in Ireland, which start again next year, although there is a waiting list.

Often overlooked, kitchen ceiling ideas have the ability to transform even the simplest room kitchen into an interesting and inviting hub of your home. 

While types of ceilings don't necessarily get the attention that flooring or wall coverings do, they're becoming more of a central focus and talking point. This is particularly the case thanks to the rise of features like vaulted ceilings and architectural cladding. 

Below, we've gathered a range of different ideas from real projects to inspire your own design. 

Kitchen Ceiling Ideas That Will Turn Heads

"Unfortunately, in the UK, the majority of our homes are mass produced to a fairly uninspiring standard, with very low ceilings and negligible design interest," begins Allan Corfield, founder of AC Architects. "When creating or remodelling your own home, you have an opportunity to forget the norm and create something special." 

Whether you're self building, extending or simply remodelling an existing space, plan your kitchen ceiling ideas as part of the wider kitchen design to ensure a cohesion of materials, colours and textures. 

1. Add a Rustic Touch to a Vaulted Ceiling

Vaulted ceilings are known for being impressive features and they can help present a light, airy kitchen. For a successful kitchen, integrate your vaulted design with the rest of your interior scheme — this could be through the lighting plan or creative paintwork, as shown here. The coastal style that the rest of the home enjoys is emulated in the white-washed tongue-and-groove pitched ceiling. 

The importance of lighting ideas for vaulted ceilings is also illustrated with the long-strung pendant lights which draw the eye up to the central apex — a truly dramatic and show-stopping feature to include in a kitchen design.

2. Paint High Ceilings in Small Kitchens a Bold Colour

The old belief that dark or bold colours aren't meant for ceilings has been disproved so many times over the last few years, it's surprising more homeowners aren't braver with their colour choices. 

While not every kitchen style can pull off an entirely black and green design, as shown here, continuing a wall colour overhead is a fantastic way to make a small kitchen feel really considered and interesting — although choose colours carefully as some will suit lower and higher ceilings differently.

Essential to this style is finding out how to light a kitchen correctly as nobody wants or needs any dark spots in a place with so much going on. The modern cluster chandelier (from Dowsing & Reynolds) makes the room feel much bigger by taking advantage of the high ceilings. 

3. Build in a Clever Lighting Scheme

While we tend to stay with classic plasterboard ceilings for our kitchens – and for good reason – that's not to mean they can't perform extra functions. 

Using a dropped or false ceiling enabled the couple behind this self build to create a recessed track for their downlights in the open-plan kitchen; they painted it black for a striking look. 

Pendant lights feel higher thanks to this design over the breakfast bar/island, while the rest of the room is neatly illuminated without visual clutter from too many ceiling lights. 

4. Clad a Kitchen Ceiling with Tongue-and-Groove Panelling

A style that will never go out of date, tongue-and-groove panelling is a great option for those whose kitchen ceilings are looking a bit tired and in need of maintenance. 

Installing ceiling cladding ideas like this can be done on a DIY basis and can possibly turn out cheaper (and less invasive) than hiring a plasterer to replaster. 

What's more, using kitchen ideas like this which can hide wiring easily (for new downlights) and other work will save time, money and effort from your electrician. 

5. Bring Light in From Above 

If you're extending your kitchen, or creating a new one during a self build, add extra-long rooflights to your wish-list immediately. 

We're seeing this feature more and more in kitchen ceilings as a way to introduce light from above, usually directly above the cooking or preparation areas so natural light can do all the work illuminating the places you need. 

"One of the first things people notice in a freshly extended property is whether it feels light and airy," says chartered surveyor Ian Rock. "Natural light is a fundamental part of the 'feel-good-factor' in any building and spaces endowed with plentiful amounts tend to be perceived more favourably by occupants."

This kitchen uses a large rooflight as the perfect antidote to the dark-painted cabinets below, ensuring the room is both contemporary and welcoming. 

6. Create a Modern Farmhouse Look with Exposed Beams

Use your ceiling to a stunning effect by exposing beams and roof trusses in a vaulted design.

"An advantage of building a double-height room is that it provides an opportunity to expose the structure," says Allan Corfield. 

"It's vital to use a construction method that can create a high space without a lot of roof structure getting in the way. There are a number of options for this, but the most common are timber cassette roof or a SIPs roof."

7. Leave an Interesting Building Material Exposed

From blockwork and formed concrete to bricks and cross laminated timber, there are all sorts of building materials that can be left exposed to create a visually rich kitchen ceiling aesthetic. 

Here, the homeowners left their cross laminated timber structure exposed on the ceiling and stained it in Osmo oil. The result is a scandi-inspired, open plan living space that has a real warmth. 

8. Use a Kitchen Ceiling to Zone an Open-Plan Space

Ceilings can be used to demarcate different areas in an open plan kitchen space. This is especially helpful if you're looking for a kitchen-diner which is connected, but still want spaces to feel like they have their own identities. 

A change in ceiling height is a great way to do this, either by vaulting the kitchen itself, or the living or dining areas. If you're knocking through during a kitchen renovation, using the steel to create distinct ceiling spaces is another popular (and fairly simple) idea. 

Or, as in this open-plan space, differentiate between a kitchen and dining space using ceiling textures. The exposed beams in the kitchen create a really dynamic space that flattens down above the dining space (also note the exposed steel beam painted in a contrasting dark grey running along the walls and along the top). 

9. Use a Ceiling to Hide a Kitchen Extractor

As our kitchens are becoming more versatile than ever, sinks, hobs and ovens are all migrating towards the centre of the room on islands and peninsulas. Unfortunately, this creates its own problem as kitchens require a certain amount of extraction around cooking areas and traditional chimney models can look odd when plonked above a social breakfast bar. 

Solutions like downdraft extractors help when designing a kitchen island, as do flat and wide extractor fans, like this one, as they can be installed along the ceiling so eyelines aren't disrupted. 

The key to making this style shine is the wood cladding around the border of the extractor unit which has been made to match the existing beams running the length of the kitchen. 

10. Take Wall Cladding Above and Beyond

One of the biggest kitchen trends of 2022 is to use timber cladding up walls and along the ceiling lines for a cosy, rustic cabin finish. 

This idea is easy to update – simply restain or repaint the internal timber cladding – and can be achieved using reclaimed wood for a sustainable and textured interior design. 

What Should I Put on My Kitchen Ceiling?

While kitchen ceilings tend to be finished with plasterboard and a skim of gypsum, this isn't the only thing homeowners can put on a kitchen ceiling. 

Interior timber cladding can provide a rustic or contemporary look, and decorative panelling is ideal for more traditional-style homes. 

What is the Cheapest Way to Cover a Ceiling?

The cheapest way to cover a ceiling is installing tongue-and-groove panelling on a DIY basis. Other popular ceiling covering estimates (based on an average kitchen size of 13.44m2) include: 

• Plaster costs between £280 and £360 according to Checkatrade
• A plywood covering (like this softwood board from B&Q) would cost £203
• Pinewood panelling would cost around £230 (Checkatrade estimate)
• Tongue-and-groove panelling installed on a DIY basis would be about £36 using these planed spruce planks from B&Q. 

Painting a ceiling is also a cost-effective and simple way to make a kitchen more interesting — try out colours other than white for a unique space, or even consider a pattered wallpaper. 

Finishing a room with ceiling cladding ideas is a lesser-seen but no less impactful way of introducing texture, warmth and interest to a space. 

Creating a feature ceiling through cladding will take some forethought as to the different styles available — the wrong application can make a mess of an interior scheme and you'll be left with something that draws the eye in the wrong way. 

Below, we go through the different ideas and types of ceiling cladding that are gaining traction in the home design world and show you how to apply them in your own home.

Why Use Ceiling Cladding Ideas?

"For a long time, timber cladding was seen only as a very traditional method of finishing off walls internally," begins associate editor Natasha Brinsmead. 

"The cladding comeback isn't just focused on traditional and classic design though — contemporary homeowners have got in on the act too, realising the scope of timbers, finishes and designs available provides the ideal solution for adding character and warmth to a modern home. And realising it's application for ceilings as well as walls."

"We're finding an increased interest in 'real' materials: walls and surfaces that are self-finished rather than covered over with plasterboard, skim and paint," adds architect Paul Testa.

Using house cladding on a ceiling can be used in isolation to capture the magic of a vaulted ceiling, or as part of a whole-room design. 

1. Give Yet More Character to a Vaulted ceiling

While vaulted ceilings are one of the most desired house design ideas of the last few years, many homeowners are not sure where to start when decorating them. Cladding will help personalise this already impressive feature.

Interesting cladding paired with good lighting ideas for vaulted ceilings will futher embrace the decadent shape and integrate it into the overall home design.

2. Use Wood Cladding as a Ceiling Motif

Rather than covering the whole ceiling, use cladding to create a running motif around the room.

This solution works best for flat ceilings, and can be a great option for spaces with low ceilings, too. Instead of drawing attention to the squat walls, cladding the ceiling directs attention higher, building the illusion of more space. 

In this stylish kitchen, strips of larch cladding have been installed alongside recessed LED strips and tube downlights. Lighting low ceilings by concealing the wires and services using cladding declutters the ceiling and finishes off a well-planned and stylish space.

3. Get an Industrial Style with Metal Cladding

We've certainly seen metal cladding come to the fore of exterior home designs which want to blend into agricultural settings over the last few years, and this trend is beginning to infiltrate interior design too. 

Materials like zinc cladding, corten (also known as weathered steel) and even corrugated metal are cropping up as unusual wall finishes — and now they're migrating to the ceiling!

In this home the walls and barrel vaulted ceiling have been covered in continuous painted corrugated metal, bringing texture and architectural oomph to an otherwise pared-back kitchen. 

4. Complete a Cosy Bedroom with Wood Ceiling Cladding

“As more and more homeowners look to achieve the modern country look there has been an increase in demand for rustic and reclaimed decor," explains Alex Main, director of The Main Company. "An alternative to traditional painted ceilings or walls, cladding is an ideal choice for those looking to add character and interest to a space. 

"Previously popular as an external wall covering, cladding has now become an internal fixture, from the more polished painted planks all the way to salvaged, raw designs. With an abundance of texture, salvaged planks benefit from inherent markings and dents which will add to an interiors unique charm.” 

For a truly cosy and characterful finish, use timber cladding ideas continuously around the room, as in the example above. 

5. Stay on Trend with a Ply-Lined Ceiling

"Birch-faced plywood is a common choice; it's dense, robust and adds natural texture and warmth to a space," explains Paul Testa. "It's been traditionally used as a low cost wall finish, but it's not cheap to buy and it's time expensive to install and finish well. It is a lower carbon choice than a gypsum-based plasterboard, too." 

Ply was used to line the walls and ceiling in this vaulted ceiling extension alongside cork flooring to create a practical, warm family space. "We wanted to evoke the feeling of a wooden hut," say the homeowners. 

6. Cover a Bathroom Top to Bottom

Textured plaster wall covering ideas such as clay, Venetian plaster or Tadelakt can be also used on ceilings. 

"Tadelakt is a Moroccan plaster finish that has actually been around for centuries," says deputy editor Michelle Guy. "This lime-based plaster is water and mould resistant, making it excellent for bathrooms. What's more it's low maintenance – there's not a single grout-line in sight – and aesthetically pleasing."

This high-end shower room uses the Tadelakt on the ceiling to create a seamless wetroom. 

7. Leave Construction Materials Exposed

If you're using a construction material such as stone, brick or CLT, why not leave it raw to really show off its beauty?

This extension by Studio Ben Allen used local, handmade York bricks that were too interesting to cover up. "The L-shaped extension celebrates brick as a structural load-bearing material, rather than just as a cladding," says director Ben Allen. 

8. Achieve a Classic Look with a Tongue-and-Groove Ceiling

Endlessly charming, tongue-and-groove panelling on the ceiling had been used for decades to conceal imperfect ceilings. 

They can be painted, oiled or stained to suit any interior style. In this traditional sitting room, the panelling has been painted to match other joinery, such as the door and built-in dresser unit on the right. 

Can You Put Cladding on a Ceiling? 

Cladding can be used on the ceilings of the majority of homes, but different projects may require different levels of preparation. 

In renovations, where cladding can be useful to conceal less-than-perfect ceilings, the surface may still need attention before being covered. 

How Do You Clad a Ceiling with Tongue and Groove?

"Most internal cladding comes in the form of tongue-and-groove boards that can be nailed and glued together or as straight-edge boards," says Natasha Brinsmead. 

In most cases cladding can be fixed directly to the ceiling, just as you would a wall. If your ceiling features timber joists, be sure to find and use these to secure the cladding. Alternatively, nail or screw softwood battens at right angles to the wall, spaced around 400-600mm. 

If you're cladding the ceiling on the underside of a roof, you will need to use a vapour barrier placed behind the battens — this will prevent condensation and rot from damaging any structural timber. 

Where the cladding will be painted, simply fill in the nail/screw holes, sand and paint over. If not, use secret nailing (where the boards are nailed at an angle through the 'tongue' section of the wood) to achieve a flawless finish.  

Can You Have Cladding on a Kitchen Ceiling? 

Cladding can be installed on a kitchen ceiling, but you may want to choose a style that is easily cleaned or low-maintenance, such a uPVC cladding. Good home ventilation may be key too. However, if your cladding will be placed away from cooking areas, timber and metal cladding can also be used. 

Although you may assume cladding ideas are only those featuring unusual or alternative materials, the fact is most self builds, extensions and external makeovers involve house cladding of some kind.

And while the purpose of choosing the best cladding ideas can also be practical in that cladding can provide an opportunity to better insulate your house, it's the aesthetic finish that will have the most impact on how your house looks.

So whether you're looking for a contemporary contrast or a more traditional take on brick or stone, we've rounded up 14 cladding ideas to help you achieve the finished design of your dreams.

1. Use timber cladding to update a timber frame house

Timber cladding is a popular choice when it comes to cladding ideas, and as the before and after images of this timber frame house show, mixing and matching colours can be a great way of updating a tired exterior. However, it can also be a way of improving energy efficiency in a home to protect it for the future.

“The home had reached a point where repairs and adaptations were needed to ensure its longevity,” says Rob Mawson, architect and director at MAP Architecture who designed and oversaw the house extension and full house refurbishment.

“Luckily the original ‘Segal approach’ of this home was one based on practicality and flexibility - with a timber frame and dry construction preferred over the more complicated wet trades of concreting and masonry. This meant we were able to remove the original panelised construction to create larger rooms, renew the roof with EDPM rubber roofing and add a thick layer of environmentally friendly woodfibre insulation around the building to minimize drafts and improve energy efficiency,” Rob explains.

Timber cladding in different colours was then chosen to cover the exterior of the house and extension, while the home’s glazing also received a much needed upgrade, and again focused on increasing solar and thermal gain.

“The existing double-glazed windows with a predicted U-value of 3.8 W/ m2K were replaced with new Velfac windows with an installed U-value of 1.14 W/m2K,” says Rob. “The additional glazing included rooflights which increased the amount of natural daylighting to the spaces and thus reducing the amount of energy needed to light and in the summer heat.”

2. Combine finishes for a striking exterior

A variety of cladding ideas can often be combined to striking effect, as this project from Adrian James Architects demonstrates well.

Previously home to a bungalow, the existing property was demolished and replaced with two homes. One a luxury four bedroom family home, the other a two bedroom city pad offering the sense of a rural retreat.

On the exterior, a combination of buff brickwork and zinc cladding clearly define the first floor, while at ground level, black engineered bricks give the impression of a solid base, supporting the floor above.

And, as with the previous project, sustainability was again at the core of this design. Deep cavity walls were packed with mineral wool insulation, with the depth used architecturally to create the deep chamfered zinc clad window reveals.

3. Be bold with contemporary copper and a splash of colour

Cladding alternatives, such as metal, are common in contemporary home design, but are also now widely used in traditional-style, projects.

"Metal cladding is often made from and can be recycled into other materials," explains Atelier Ochre's, Daryl Fitzgerald. "It is suitable in some of the harshest conditions and perfect for building envelopes, but one of its most appealing traits is its ageing process and the patina that forms over time."

This building, which sits on a residential street in a conservation area but is in fact a yoga centre (but could well be a home), was designed by Adrian James Architects. With the planner's approval, the design is respectful but clearly contemporary – something that was partly achieved through the deep hue of the recycled copper cladding making it less 'loud.'

The beauty of this material also lies in its full cycle properties – it is both recycled and can be recycled at the end of its life. Although that said, it potentially has an infinite lifespan as it doesn't corrode and is very durable.

The pop of green also adds a fresh finish to window and door reveals, but will blend in over time as the copper naturally develops its own green patina.

4. Use timber but vary its direction

Brick houses are often the subject of extension plans, and timber cladding ideas work particularly well with them, offering the potential to create cohesion with wood tones and hues blending well with the warm rich shades of brick.

But, that doesn't mean you can't also create some visual variance with your cladding ideas.

This modern double storey extension from Adam Knibb Architects, uses a combination of render, timber and aluminium to create a crisp clean cladding palette. But, rather than sticking to one linear direction, the second storey features vertical timber cladding, while below, horizontal sections of timber slats frame the large sliding patio doors and serve to increase the overall feeling of width.

5. Take your cladding inside too

While brick slips are often used in cladding ideas, they are often placed and laid in such a way as to replicate the appearance of a brick finished wall. Another way of using brick however, is through creating a relief style cladding idea instead.

This home was extended with a dormer loft conversion and single storey extension by William Tozer Associates who used the brick cladding in two different ways.

On the loft conversion, it features on all external walls, giving it sense of solidity and contrast with the original slate roof, while on the ground floor it was used in a different way.

Here, the brickwork cladding was used on one exterior wall of the extension, creating a sculptural plane that runs along the walls length, both outside of the property, and also inside, creating a striking feature wall with its own unique internal cladding finish.

6. Tie your extension and home together using cladding

While the previous cladding idea took the brick cladding finish into the home, this project from ID Architecture uses cladding on external finishes in a clever way to unite old and new.

Built in the early 1900's, the Edwardian Villa was extended using a minimal palette of materials to allow both old and new to feature in equal prominence.

A red-brick chimney mirrors the brickwork of the existing structure, while the timber cladding idea was chosen to complement the original building’s decorative string course, and painted black to emulate the Tudor style of neighbouring properties.

White render unites the second floor with the rest of the home, yet still manages to successfully link to the extension by featuring black timber cladding on one exterior wall. In addition, the strikingly long pergola that extends outwards from the new open plan kitchen and living area is also painted black, neatly uniting each different section of this family home.

7. Pair traditional stone with treated timber

In a rustic setting, timber cladding combined with stone cladding can give the textural finish that helps a home sit well within its surroundings. But what types of timber cladding can you consider and why is it such a popular choice?

"Timber cladding offers natural beauty and versatility, with options ranging from rough-sawn feather edge to smooth-machined halflap and shiplap profiles," explains Tom Barnes, managing director of Vastern Timber.

"Homebuilders can choose from rustic, knotty grades of wood or more expensive premium, knot-free boards. UK-grown species like Cedar, Larch and Sweet chestnut or imported favourites such as Canadian Red Cedar and Thermowood," he adds.

Its popularity is down to a number of reasons, says Tom.

"Timber cladding offers a warm, natural appearance that suits both rural and urban settings. It’s a sustainable option – particularly when using locally grown species – and adds a tactile, textured quality that enhances architectural character.

"Left untreated, timber will gradually weather to a silver-grey and some find this ageing process attractive, while others may prefer to maintain the original colour," he says. "However, to achieve this, regular re-coating every few years is required, so choosing the right timber species and finish is about striking a balance between natural beauty, long-term durability, and maintenance needs."

8. Stand out on a suburban street

Using timber cladding has been a long tradition in this country, but modern designs are experimenting with the material more than ever before.

"Wood cladding, can be used on the exterior of a home too to add texture and dimension," suggests Lisa Grosse, brand manager at Cedral. "It’s great for new builds, but also for those who don’t want to fully update the exterior of their property as timber cladding can work as an accent or half wall feature, breaking up solid colour and changing up the way it looks."

In this image, timber cladding is laid diagonally and combined with brick and zinc cladding, almost creating a home of two halves that has exemplary street presence and a can't help but look kerb appeal.

9. Use cladding that's in keeping with your location

Stone cladding can bring a real character to a project, as well as warmth. Think about the charming yellows in the Cotswolds and the visually delightful dry stone designs of the Lake District.

No matter what the project may be, most homeowners have an idea of how they would like their home to look from the outside. "However, your choice will also be influenced by materials used in local vernacular, and you'll need to demonstrate to the local planning authority that you've taken this into account," says editor of Homebuilding & Renovating magazine, Beth Murton.

"Look at surrounding areas to see what new projects have been approved and what style of cladding has been utilised. Also, be diligent to observe any local details that are repeated in older buildings – could these motifs or materials be incorporated into a new design?" she suggests

"Cladding plays a very important role in how the envelope can really lift the host building, and how it relates to, and is a part of, its local environment – now and over time," explains Daryl Fitzgerald. "We believe the best cladding is made from natural materials that exemplifies the architecture and will have a long lived discussion with its neighbours."

This extension to a traditional cottage was clad in cropped Cotswolds stone to embed the building comfortably within its surroundings while presenting a modern aesthetic when accompanied by the large sliding glass doors.

10. Use your cladding as a sculptural feature

Glass extensions are often striking enough design features in themselves, but the addition of sculpture like timber cladding to this double height kitchen diner take it too a whole new level.

Using a skin of Douglas fir battens as the main cladding idea, Paul Archer Design who created this scheme, also ran the cladding inside the new building as an interior wall lining. As well as creating connection between outside and in, it also extends partially over the glass to provide shading and create interesting patterns.

Wood is then used as an interior finish, linking all the different elements of the home, and providing visual warmth to counteract the more stark finish of the glass box roof.

11. Use large scale tiles for impact

While the tradition of tile hanging is not a new cladding idea, it is a wonderful option with more than meets the eye. Often used to clad the upper storey of a building, modern architects and homeowners are now choosing to clad an entire house with the material for texture and visual interest.

In this project from Paul Archer Design, this Victorian terraced house was reconfigured to include a two storey rear extension. But, wanting something visually striking to admire from the garden, a number of materials were used to help fulfill that need.

At the foot of the extension, raw concrete provides a solid base, whilst the overhanging glazing and slate rise vertically adding an extra sense of height. The Welsh riven slate also contrasts well with the lightness of the glass and is a subtle reference to the extensive use of slate in Victorian buildings.

12. Opt for a budget friendly cladding idea

If your house cladding costs are pushing the limits of your budget, uPVC cladding is generally considered the most cost-effective option.

Untreated softwood weatherboarding is also fairly cost-effective, but does require treating and painting to create a good quality finish and to ensure it's suitable to withstand the elements.

This stunning coastal home was once a red-brick bungalow. One timber frame extension later and the house is unrecognisable and is clad in white painted solid timber, given the appearance of a New England style home.

"Shiplap sidings is a New England style of wall cladding characterised by long planks, normally in white, that are mounted horizontally to evoke exterior ship walls," explains Lisa Grosse.

It's also A look that could be partially replicated with uPVC as a way of saving money and reducing long term maintenance.

13. Fibre cement cladding is a more sustainable option to uPVC

"One of the trends we are seeing now is towards more natural products with homeowners increasingly thinking about the environmental impact of the products they use," explains Lisa Grosse. "Fibre cement uses fewer raw materials and less energy in its manufacture, produces less waste than some traditional building materials and is fully recyclable.

"It’s a strong, versatile and sustainable material containing cement and fibres which comes in a variety of textures and colours. Fibre cement doesn’t rot, rust, warp or crack under extreme temperature change and has a minimum life expectancy of 50 years," says Lisa.

"Compared to uPVC façade cladding, fibre cement also does not expand in heat and is not affected by weather conditions unlike wood. Fibre cement cladding also has an excellent fire performance classification," she adds, "is easy to install and needs minimal maintenance. It is also possible to add an insulation layer with the cladding in order to improve the thermal and acoustic insulation of a building."

14. Chose the right render when using this as your cladding idea

House rendering is a great option for updating a dated brick exterior, using on a new extension or for renovating a period house which needs a breathable exterior covering (choose lime renders in this instance).

Render comes in a variety of colours, not just the stark white you often see paired with anthracite windows. Choose a monocouche or through-coloured render, which does not need re-painting, for a low-maintenance cladding idea.

Not sure how to go about deciding which cladding idea is right for your home? "Each material has its own nuances and methods of installation, and deciding on the most suitable material can often be difficult," agrees Daryl Fitzgerald.

"Different materials require different details and build ups and can cause many other knock on effects, so it's best to narrow down the search early on. Accepting and working with a particular material's limitations can often bring out great results – so it's always best to embrace it."

Looking for cladding ideas that will specifically suit a certain type of extension? Take a look at these dormer cladding ideas if you're extending upwards to make sure your new space is a standout.

CONTENT SUPPLIED BY JAMES HARDIE

If you’re building a new home or renovating your existing one then choosing exterior cladding should be a priority to help give your home a fresh, modern look. 

Cladding forms part of the exterior wall of your home and protects your home’s interior elements. It can be fixed vertically or horizontally (or even diagonally) and installed using a variety of materials, such as PVC, timber and glass cladding. 

If you’re looking to create a beautiful new space or you want to change the style of your home’s exterior, from traditional brick or render, for example, then read to discover the key benefits of installing exterior cladding. 

1. It adds aesthetic value

External cladding can give your home a modern look and feel which not only helps to beautify your home, but also increase your kerb appeal - this can be particularly useful if you’re considering selling your home down the line. 

2. It is low maintenance

PVC and fibre cement cladding are among the low-maintenance cladding materials which require only an occasional wash to ensure they continue to look new. Keep a look out for cladding products with a longer guarantee time of 15 years and utilise technology which means they won’t peel, crack, fade or need repainting. This will help you to save money and time spent on maintenance.

3. It is durable

External cladding adds an extra layer of protection to your home against rain, wind and snow, as well as corrosion. It also reduces the amount of moisture that comes into your home which can prevent the growth of mould and mildew over time.

4. It provides added insulation

External cladding can improve your home’s thermal performance by offering higher levels of insulation, depending on the thickness used. This extra insulation can help to make your home warmer and help to save you money on your long-term energy bills. 

Find out more about James Hardie’s Hardie VL Plank cladding here and keep up to date with James Hardie on Facebook (@JamesHardieUK), and Instagram (@JamesHardieUK).

Timber cladding has long been a popular method of finishing the exterior of a house. Where it was once the reserve of certain areas of the UK only, such as Kent, Sussex and Hampshire, these days the use of timber cladding is pretty prolific. 

There are plenty of reasons to choose timber as a house cladding, but how do you
know which wood species are best to use? 

In our guide, we take a look at the pros and cons of the most popular timber cladding types, along with styles of cladding and all the associated costs too. 

Timber Cladding Types: Which Are Best?

One of the main choices homeowners considering timber cladding face is which wood to choose. There are many different timbers suitable for cladding, each with their own set of advantages and disadvantages. 

Some are best left in their raw state to weather naturally, while others will benefit from treatment to ensure they stand the test of time and remain looking good. 

Different timbers also come with different price tags and although some can appear to be cheaper, over time their low maintenance requirements can actually make them a more cost-effective option. 

The main timber cladding types include:

• Western red cedar
• Larch
• Douglas fir
• Oak
• Sweet chestnut
• Iroko
• Modified timbers

Here, we delve into the various timber cladding types in a little more detail.

Western Red Cedar Cladding

Western red cedar is among the most popular softwoods used today. Aside from its relatively knot-free, ‘clean’ appearance, this softwood has a natural resistance to decay and moisture absorption, meaning it can typically be installed without treatment. It’s also the most stable of the softwoods, subject to little movement when installed.

If you did hope to apply a finish, its low resin content means it can be readily stained or painted. It can also be used to create a variety of profiles. 

On the downside it is comparatively low in density, meaning it can be dented. Also, it is often imported, although it is, increasingly being grown here in here in the UK. It is worth checking the durability of UK grown western red cedar as it can be a little lower than that of imported.

Scottish and Scandinavian Larch Cladding

Scottish and Scandinavian larch is denser than western red cedar, making it more resilient to knocks. It’s available in varying grades — the higher quality grades tend to contain fewer knots, being suitable for machined profiling, with lower grade sawn larch a cheaper option. 

Larch can however lose resin once installed, making it unsuitable with some finishes, and often requires pre-drilling before installation too; so check this with your supplier.

Douglas Fir Cladding

Douglas fir is another another good softwood for cladding. It is generally sourced from Canada and the USA, although sometimes now grown in the UK. 

This is a cost effective option that is strong and hardwearing. However, bear in mind that UK grown Douglas fir may require a protective coating to improve durability.

Sweet Chestnut and Oak Cladding

Temperate hardwoods, such as oak and sweet chestnut, are particularly hardy species. 

“Green oak will naturally weather with age to a silver-grey colour, and it has the advantage that no further maintenance will usually be required for anywhere between 25 to 100 years; this can be significant where cladding inaccessible areas such as the gable over a lower roof,” says Bill Keir of Oakwrights. “If, however, you want to keep it that initial golden colour, it will need regular and frequent treatment.”

Both oak and sweet chestnut contain high tannin levels (compared with some of the softwood options) which can leach out during exposure to the elements, resulting in dark streaks. Such marks do however disappear after a couple of years of weathering. Hardwood boards also need to be pre-drilled before being installed, which can add to installation costs. 

Iroko Cladding

Tropical hardwoods such as iroko are also incredibly durable, but do ensure that the products you choose are from a sustainable source.

Be sure to buy a product with a guarantee of at least 15 years. One way to help ensure quality is to opt for products endorsed under a scheme such as the TDCA-operated CladMark.

Heat Treated Timber Cladding

There is now an emerging group of thermally modified timbers such as ThermoWood, Accoya, Thor, Kebony, Keywood and PlatoWood. The latter are created by slightly different (patented) means, but the process typically involves heating lesser durable softwoods, such as pine, at high temperatures in order to remove moisture and resin and permanently enhance them. 

The timber may also be injected with chemicals. The result is a very durable, stable product. Many manufacturers also promote the sustainable benefits, with thermally modified softwoods offering a good alternative to depleting tropical hardwoods.

Shou Sugi Ban is another form of heat treated timber that is charred in order to colour, waterproof and preserve the wood, as well as making it resistant to fire, rot, insects and UV effects from the sun. 

Do check with the supplier whether the product will require treatment with installation.

Shakes and Shingles

Shakes and shingles are made from split logs and have an appearance more like timber tiles than boards. Although similar, shingles were originally sawn from a block, whilst shakes were split off using a chisel and mallet. Shingles tend to look neater and more precise than shakes, which give a more rustic appearance. 

As a cladding material they look fantastic on both contemporary and traditional homes. Shakes are usually made from Western red cedar, giving them good durability, and can also be supplied pressure treated with preservative for enhanced protection. In some areas, shakes or shingles are made from pine.

Low Maintenance Timber Cladding

"Cedar and thermally modified timber are less likely to move and allow you to use a more delicate joint," begins Tom Barnes, managing director of Vastern Timber.  

"Wood is made up of three things — cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin. When timber is heated at 210°C it reconfigures the structure of the wood and creates a mesh that prevents water entering. The hemicellulose is the part of the wood that bonds with water, and this decreases during the heating process so that the timber can’t bond with water. 

"As a result, the wood takes on the following properties:

• It becomes hygrophobic — it resists water and won’t take on any more.
• Is less likely to shrink or expand.
• Has increased stability and durability."

On the topic of maintenance, some timber types will require finishing in a paint or stain, and other can be left to weather naturally. However, for some, the different rates at which different elevations weather can be unsightly.

"All wood will weather and go silver over time unless it is treated, but treatment helps the upkeep of your cladding," explains Tom Barnes.

"Osmo provides a UV protection oil which will slow down the weathering process, but their clear version is less resistant to UV. The pigmented versions perform better, but change the colour of your wood.

"SiOO:X offers a product which accelerates the weathering process to turn the timber a pale silver. This means that you can ‘even out’ the silvering on different elevations, as they would otherwise naturally weather at different rates.

Timber Cladding: Getting the Details Right

It is crucial to get the corner details and those around windows and doors right when it comes to timber cladding, both for aesthetic purposes and to ensure moisture is not allowed to seep behind the boards. 

The most common way to deal with corners is to fix a length of timber which has been cut into at the back to form a V-shape that fits over the corner. The boards then fix into this piece of timber where they meet the corner. 

At windows and doors a vertical reveal should be used, protruding out slightly from the weatherboarding, which butts up to it. 

At all of these details, a mastic seal should be used to prevent moisture getting in.

Timber Cladding Costs

House cladding costs vary hugely, with stone cladding being one of the most expensive options, along with zinc cladding. 

When it comes to timber cladding, at the cheapest end of the market lies basic softwood boarding, coming in at around just £5-8/m². However, if left in its raw state it would deteriorate very quickly. It requires regular painting and staining and will need three coats of stain alone when it is installed. 

When all this is taken into consideration, it is no longer such a cheap option, which makes those timbers that require no staining or treatment, such as Western red cedar, European larch, Douglas fir and even European oak, much more appealing. 

Cedar will cost around five times the price of untreated softwood, but will last 60 years or so with little maintenance. Larch is often now used in place of cedar or other hardwoods due to its cheaper price. 

The price of fibre cement boards varies, but expect to pay from around £45/m² fully installed.

Timber merchants, online stores and cladding specialists are all options when it comes to buying your timber cladding. Some claddings come pre-treated, stained or painted, whilst others are supplied ready for you to finish — the cheaper, but more time-consuming option. 

Installing Timber Cladding

Timber cladding can be – and often is – fitted on a DIY basis, but if you would prefer to leave it to the professionals, then your carpenter will carry out this task. Alternatively, some of the specialists, such as Marley Eternit, offer installation services.

How timber cladding is installed will invariably have an impact on the overall aesthetic.

Laying Styles

• Square edge: This type of boarding has a uniform thickness, usually between 12-18mm, whilst widths of boards vary from 125mm to 225mm. Many fibre cement boards are square edge.
• Feather edge: Boards are tapered across their width. This style of board produces a rustic, rural appearance that is perfect for more traditional homes, or barn-style self-builds.
• Shiplap: Shiplap has a shaped front face and profile so that the top of each board fits behind the bottom edge of the adjacent board. It gives a neat finish. Moulded PVC boards are often available in this style.
• Tongue and groove: These produce a uniform look that suits contemporary houses. They have a flat face and in the absence of any overlapping, rain is kept out by the way the groove covers the tongue of the board below.

Fixing Methods for Timber Cladding

Horizontally mounted boards are preferable to vertically mounted ones as they produce greater resistance to moisture penetration. In cases where vertical weatherboarding is used, the overlap should face away from the prevailing wind.

If you’re going for a style where the boards overlap, they should do so by 30mm. Boards are fixed to battens, which should measure 50mm deep and be spaced at a maximum distance of 600mm centres. Battens should be fixed to a breather membrane or vapour barrier.

When fixing the battens, start from the bottom up and leave a distance of 150mm between the bottom edge of the weatherboarding and the ground. Each board should be fixed to at least three battens to ensure stability.

Zinc cladding is popular for many reasons — it is not only attractive visually, but comes in many forms and is also suitable for a number of different house styles. 

It can be used to clad the entire façade of a home, one element of a home (such as new mansard loft conversion) or combined with another cladding material to striking effect.

If you are looking for house cladding, whether you are renovating or self building, we are here to explain why zinc might just be the right choice for you. Our guide explains the different types of zinc cladding available, as well as installation options and costs.

What is Zinc Cladding?

Zinc cladding is a type of metal cladding. It comes in many different forms and sheets can be formed into shingles, cassette panels and flat-lock panels to suit any type of building. 

Zinc is sometimes chemically treated in order to slightly alter its naturally shiny finish. These treatments are usually designed to weather it quickly, giving it a patina which would take between three and 10 years to develop naturally.  

Zinc is also sometimes combined with small amounts of other alloys, such as titanium and copper, in order to increase its malleability, durability and corrosion-resistance.

The material can also be used for roofing — combining a zinc roof with a zinc façacde is a great way to create an eye-catching contemporary home. 

Finally, zinc cladding can also be supplied as a rainscreen. This is a form of double-wall construction where an outer layer of zinc keeps the rain out and away from an inner layer of insulation. A cavity between the two provides drainage and prevents condensation issues. 

What Are The Benefits of Zinc Cladding?

Zinc cladding has many benefits, including:

• Design flexibility thanks to its malleability: It can be shaped into many forms, including curves and sharp angles
• Strength
• Great longevity: At least 60 years can be expected
• Corrosion resistance: Zinc does not rust, and it is a great option for coastal homes for this reason
• Aesthetics: Its natural grey appearance means it ties in with a number of other cladding materials, including render and slate roofs
• Low maintenance
• Recyclable: A good sustainable option

Zinc Cladding Systems

Although zinc cladding is most commonly supplied in sheets or coils, there are various systems to choose from:

• Composite zinc cladding: This has an integral foam insulation fitted between the inner and outer layers and be supplied with either a profiled or flush face. It tends to be supplied as ready-to-fit panels to be 'secret-fixed' into position. 
• Standing seam: A very popular form of zinc cladding, standing seam systems are sheets that are clipped together to form a projecting seam. This system is available in either pre-insulated panels or in sheet form to be assembled on site. 
• Built-up sheeting: This cladding system requires on-site assembly by a professional. It consists of a facing sheet supported on brackets with a layer of insulation and an internal liner for an airtight finish. It is sometimes used alongside structural trays, in which case there is no need for a separate liner — these are often specified where long spans need cladding.  
• Cassette cladding: Delivered ready-to-fit, cassette cladding comes with insulation and liners and is fitted using interlocking joints, making it a quick way to clad a house. 

Zinc Cladding Installation

It is always recommended to get your zinc cladding installed professionally in order to guarantee it performs well and withstands the test of time.

One of the most common zinc cladding systems is standing seam. This is usually fitted is to a layer of plywood, fixed to battens that have been fixed to insulation protected by a membrane. 

However, flat lock panels, bespoke shingles and diamond shingles are a little different, being fixed to the building using clips hidden behind the edge of the profiled tile.

In the case of zinc rainscreen façades, these are usually attached to metal framing that allows for an airspace between the insulation layer and the cladding. 

How Much Does Zinc Cladding Cost?

Zinc cladding is a more expensive option than either steel or aluminium cladding — although its impressive longevity goes some way to offsetting this. 

At the very lower end of the market you may see quotes for as little as £40/m² for basic zinc sheeting, while a figure closer to £100-£150/m² is more common. 

It is very difficult to give an exact figure for what zinc cladding costs, given that the systems all vary in price. The complexity of the project and its size, as well as the location of your house will all affect what you pay too. 

Whether you are self building, renovating or extending, metal cladding is a great way to ensure your home has a highly individual, eye-catching, appearance. 

Metal is still seen by many as a relatively unusual material to use for house cladding yet it is actually a practical option as well as being suitable not just for contemporary homes, but for traditional and more rustic style properties too. 

In this guide to metal cladding, we explain the main options you will find available, the best ways to use them, as well as providing you with likely costs and some handy installation tips.

Types of Metal Cladding

As with timber cladding, there are a number of different metal cladding types available to homeowners these days, although for most people, the choice comes down to four main materials:

• Steel
• Aluminium 
• Zinc
• Copper

All of these materials are available in various formats, from corrugated sheeting to composite products, which are supplied pre-formed, incorporating insulation. 

Steel Cladding

Steel cladding has a lot going for it. Firstly, it tends to be the cheapest type of metal cladding. 

Secondly, it affords excellent design possibilities — it can span long distances in one run and has a good life expectancy of at least 35 years (although some products will last up to 80 years), thanks to steel's resistance to both corrosion and water damage.

It is also possible to achieve a variety of visual finishes using steel cladding as there are a range of surface treatments it can be supplied in — although one of the most common is for it to be 'hot-dip' galvanised using a zinc alloy. In addition, it also comes in various colours and with some very striking surface finishes. 

On the downside, despite steel's impressive longevity, it is not quite as durable as the other types of metal cladding. 

Corten Steel

Corten steel is also known as 'weathering steel' or as its branded trademark, COR-TEN, is currently a very popular material for exterior cladding.

It doesn't require any painting as it is corrosion resistant. 'Cor' refers to the metals corrosion resistance, wile the 'ten' indicates its tensile strength. 

Over time, the steel gains a warm, rusty' surface finish.

Aluminium Cladding

Aluminium is a very popular material when it comes to metal cladding — being lightweight and malleable. This makes it very easy to work with and reduces any concerns regarding placing heavy loads on the structure of the building or its foundations — great for those retrofitting. 

Aluminium house cladding comes in a range of finishes and colours and has an expected lifespan of at least 40 years, during which time its surface will oxidise to produce a durable layer that will protect it from corrosion. 

Zinc Cladding

Zinc is a beautiful cladding material that is also highly practical. It is easy to work with thanks to its malleable properties, meaning it can be manipulated into a range of shapes and forms, from flowing curves to crisp angles. 

Appearance-wise, zinc starts off with an eye-catching silver finish, gradually weathering to a grey that is more like lead. That said, it is also available in a pre-weathered finish for those after a less shiny initial look. 

Zinc cladding is extremely durable and has an expected lifespan of up to 60 years — it is the ideal option for homes near the sea thanks to its hardwearing nature. 

On the downside, it is a more expensive option that steel or aluminium cladding — although its longevity reflects this. 

This material can also be used on roofs, and some contemporary self builds have combined zinc roofs with zinc-clad walls to stunning effect.

Copper Cladding

Copper lies at the very top of the price scale. But that is really its only downfall. 

Copper house cladding is ideal for all kinds of house styles, and offers a warm finish that will weather beautifully over time, from bright and bronze through to brown and blueish greens. 

It is very malleable, meaning it can be moulded into many different forms — plus the newest innovations in copper cladding have seen some very visually exciting results, such as delicate patterns and mesh sheets. 

Finally, this is the most durable of all the options, with a lifespan of 100+ years. 

How is Metal Cladding Installed?

It is not just the material you'll need to consider when choosing metal cladding — there are a number of different ways it can be supplied and fitted too. Each type has its own requirements and some systems are more suitable for certain applications than others.

The main ways metal cladding is supplied are: 

• Composite metal cladding: This type of cladding comes complete with a foam insulation core that sits between the inner and outer layers. Composite cladding comes with either a profiled or flush face. It is usually delivered to site as ready-to-fit panels that can be screwed or secret fixed into place — although professional installation is still recommended. 
• Standing seam: This is a visually distinctive type of metal cladding. Joints are clipped together so as to create a projecting seam. It comes as either pre-insulated panels or as sheets that are formed on site before being attached to a substrate, such as plywood. The beauty of this system lies in the design flexibility it affords, allowing for curves and long, unbroken expanses to be created. 
• Built-up sheeting cladding: This is a good system for both traditional and contemporary-style houses — although it has a profiled finish which won't suit everyone. This type of cladding is assembled on-site and it is important to get a professional to fit it as the success of the system very much hinges on perfect installation. It is made up of an outer facing sheet which is supported on brackets. Insulation will also be added (often in the form of mineral wool), along with an internal liner to provide an airtight finish. Built-up sheeting cladding can also be used with structural trays which remove the need for a separate liner and are ideal where long spans are being clad. The sheets can be fixed in a number of patterns and curved versions are also an option. 
• Cassette cladding: These are another product that are delivered ready-to-fit — much like composite cladding. Cassette cladding comes complete with insulation and liners and has interlocking joints, meaning quick installation times are possible. 
• Rainscreen cladding: As with other types of external cladding, metal cladding can be supplied as a rainscreen. This means that the the outer face is non-load-bearing. Although there is a layer of insulation, a ventilated cavity separates the facing from this layer to ensure moisture can drain away. This means condensation is prevented, making it a popular option with those retrofitting cladding when renovating. 

How Much Does Metal Cladding Cost?

The cost of metal cladding very much depends on the material you opt for, as well as your installer and the system you have chosen. 

Steel and aluminium cladding are both cheaper than zinc and copper, with prices starting from approx. £35/m2 — not including installation. 

Zinc costs more, and copper cladding lies at the very top end of the price scale.

Homeowners and designers sometimes offset costs by combining metal cladding with another cladding material, or choose to clad less prominent elevations in a material such as house render.

On the plus side though, metal cladding requires little in the way of maintenance — usually a simple hose down to wash the surface is all that is required.

Using timber cladding ideas on the inside and exterior of your home can be a fantastic way to add instant character and texture, as well as creating kerb appeal. 

Decisions concerning house cladding are key to the finished look of your home and should be given thought right from the beginning of a project. Many self builders building new homes choose timber cladding to complement surrounding homes, barns and structures, while extenders might choose a contemporary wooden cladding to contrast with a traditional brick home. 

Local vernacular, style, colour and installation will all affect if the planning department will approve your plans, while material and cost will be large factors in a feasibility of your cladding choices.

Here, we provide a run-down of some our favourite timber cladding ideas, together with key advice from experts and architects on how to achieve the look you're after. 

1. Timber Cladding Ideas for a Contemporary Home

Cladding a home entirely with a striking timber design produces an undeniably contemporary appearance that is both natural and beautiful. 

The Siberian larch timber cladding used on this new home, designed by Zone Architects, was supplied by Russwood and treated so it has an even colour right from the beginning, allowing it to embed within the setting instantly. 

To create visual detailing on the exterior, the practice chose to position alternate batons in relief so the daylight can create interesting patterns and shadows along the rectangular structure throughout the day.

2. Mix Stone Walls with a Timber-Clad Extension

Wooden cladding looks exceptional when installed alongside stone cladding or other natural home materials, such as flint or slate. 

When adding a single-storey extension to their 18th-century miners' cottage, Design Storey chose thin profile larch cladding in a dark colour to reference the coal mining history of the property. 

Crucially, the new extension features bifold doors that, when open, allow the original stone rear walls to be 'read' through the new addition. 

3. Combine Timber and Render for a Traditional Appearance

Recapture the graceful finish of period homes by creating a design that mixes both house rendering and timber cladding.

Lime render was chosen for the majority of this traditional-style self build's exterior, because of its soft, warm and tactile finish, while French grey-painted timber cladding details on the garage and under the windows further soften the appearance. 

4. Discover the Beauty of Charred Timber With Shou Sugi Ban

"The term Shou Sugi Ban effectively means charring the outside of the timber cladding, which forms a protective coating against the elements, although it's also good practice to then provide a seal using a product like linseed oil as well," explains Matt Loader. 

"This should produce a maintenance-free cladding material which lasts well. It also has a beautiful sheen in the sunlight, so while black, it can have quite a few appearances and characters as the light changes."

"The overall look of the cladding is dark and homogeneous, yet each timber is highly individual," Laura Jane Clark, founder of Lamp Architects continues. "The texture and grain of the wood is brought out by an incredible range of subtle purple, blue and silver tones appearing against the charcoal black. The finished surface texture can then be brushed or left raw."

5. Contrast Timber and Brick Cladding

Painting a house's timber cladding offers the chance for a truly individual appearance, be it in a classic New-England white, contemporary black or even a calming blue. 

The front of this self build (oak frame supplied by Border Oak) is unassuming to fit in with the predominantly brick houses of the surrounding areas, as per the planning conditions. Around the back however, pale blue horizontal weatherboard timber cladding is combined with the Cheshire red brick as a contemporary contrast.  

6. Use Thermally Modified Wood Cladding in Exposed Locations

"This project is coated thermopine from Russwood," Matt Loader says. "We did look at using Shou Sugi Ban, but due to the extremely exposed location, we decided against it. The coated timber, while it needs to be occasionally maintained, was far harder wearing on the hillside and more likely to maintain the pure black appearance. 

"Given the proximity of wood gurus Russwood (they are in the same town) it made sense to 'go local' as well, and they could provided the coated and thermally modified pine used."

7. Continue External Wood Cladding Inside

This house extension, designed by Yard Architects, was designed with a large vaulted rooflight over the banquette seating area. 

To avoid overlooking from the windows above, openable oak louvres have been placed on the underside of the roof while the oak panels lining the walls have been battened along the opening to the kitchen area to mimic the texture and design of the louvres.

"It brings together the inside and outside, so the extension feels almost like a piece of furniture," says project architect Simon Graham. "The timber adds a very warm and tactile surface to the interior, and all achieved in a natural material with no paint finishes."

8. Play Around With the Direction of Timber Cladding

"The clients for this project are rowers and it's quite a common insignia on the oars of rowers to have a chevron and so we started messing around with that as an idea on the cladding at a fairly early stage," begins Matt Loader of Loader Monteith Architects. 

"That became simplified down to become a diagonal because we were only looking at a small area but we think it provides a nice counterpoint to the linear nature of the rest of the house. The wood surround was formed to house the sliding frames of the glass doors and windows. 

"The planners did not want the wood to silver and to end up looking like concrete so they are formed in Kebony, a thermally modified timber with quite a knotty finish. While we think it's debatable that timber ever looks like concrete, the diagonal pattern, the knotty character and the thermally modified nature of Kebony means it will always be recognisably wood, and connect well with the garden space beyond."

9. Use Timber Cladding in Interior Spaces

A warm, welcoming appearance can be created using timber cladding in kitchens, bathrooms and living spaces using pretty much any type of wood. 

“Contemporary internal timber cladding can be used in many different ways on any wall internally,” says builder Andy Stevens, MD of Eclipse Property Solutions. “Cladding can be used to create a feature wall, bring an old wall to life, or if you’re really bold you can clad the entire room. The great thing with timber is every piece is different so you will never get two pieces the same.”

Here, inexpensive OSB was added to this dark blue kitchen to create texture in the room. 

"Any timber finishes which form internal wall finishes will need to have a fire proofing finish applied," cautions architect Simon Graham.

10. Address Inconsistent Weathering

Although some homeowners like the look of a naturally weathered timber home, some prefer timber cladding to weathered uniformly before installation, or to protect parts of the building that will silver at an inconsistent speed. 

Alternatively, plan for weathering in the design process. "The main consideration is good detailing to ensure the timber doesn’t get stained or weather at different rates," explains Yard Architects' Simon Graham. "Keeping it away from the ground is a good idea."

This self build, designed by Edgley Architects, features black-stained timber cladding on the first storey, and detailed brick design ideas on the ground floor. 

The tounge-and-groove exterior-grade Southern Yellow Pine cladding was stained black for a more agricultural look, while the red brick – chosen because the lower half of the building would weather differently to the top – is characteristic of the area.  

11. Remodel an Old Bungalow with New Timber Cladding

Bungalows are ideal for exterior makeovers and a fresh timber cladding can create the perfect modern look homeowners are craving. 

Sketch Architects wanted this bungalow extension to blend into the local sylvan environment so opted to clad it in Siberian Larch from Silva Timber. This will weather over time to a silver/grey colour. 

One word of advice from Yard Architects' Simon Graham: "Fire regulations stipulate that external cladding has to be fire rated within a certain distance of the boundary, which can add a lot to the cost, so its not always a good idea when you are very close to your neighbours."

12. Go All Natural with a Plywood Interior Finish

"The trend for ply wood walls continues," says Homebuilding & Renovating's Associate Editor Natasha Brinsmead. 

"Now frequently used in place of plasterboard, plywood not only looks fresh and contemporary, but it is also a comparatively affordable option. Be sure to look out for FSC certified and low VOC plywood is you are considering this wall covering idea to ensure it's sustainable."

13. Play with Painting Timber Cladding 

The external timber cladding of this self build is painted in Farrow & Ball's Down Pipe. The cladding was going to be left natural but the homeowners didn't like the idea of how the difference elevations would weather. So, they bought the cladding pre-painted. 

Why Use Timber Cladding?

"First off, timber cladding is sustainable," begins Matt Loader co-founder and director of Loader Monteith Architects. "It can be sourced locally, can have low embodied energy and timber also stores carbon in it. It's reasonably easy to install and it weathers well in harsh climates — the prevalence of its use in Scandinavia is evidence of this. 

"Depending on the style and areas, it can also be tremendously cost-effective as a solution to cladding a building. It has quite a lot going for it!" says Matt.

"Timber is a very versatile material and it works particularly well if you are constructing in timber frame, keeping the number of trades down," advises Simon Graham, director of Yard Architects. "Design wise, timber offers many different options in terms of species, colour, the shape of the cladding and fixing details, so you can create something very bespoke. It's also very sustainable if carefully sourced. 

"There are a few things to consider, durability, cost and appearance. Hardwood timbers and some softwoods will last longer than others but will likely be more expensive, so it's worth investigating. Firms like Russwood and Silva Timber or timber research agency ‘TRADA’ have lots of information."

Where is Timber Cladding Sourced?

"Because of the UK's temperate climate, the timber species tend to grow quite quickly and can be 'knotty' and open grained in comparison from species from abroad," advises Matt Loader. 

"If you look at the difference between Scottish larch and Siberian Larch, it's clear there's a difference in appearance with many more marks and knots on the Scottish cladding. The UK remains a huge net importer of timber, and it's important that we try and utilise our own products more than we presently do."

What is the Cheapest Type of Timber Cladding?

"Cheaper timbers tend to have more knots, so it's important to think about what you want the cladding to look like, and likewise some will take a stain better than others," Yard Architects' Simon Graham comments. "Larch and cedar will weather to an attractive silver grey over time so the timber can be left unfinished."

"If you are up for a bit of an adventure, then purchasing a gas blow torch is a very cost-effective but lengthy way to produce charred timber cladding," suggests Laura Jane Clarke. "Creating a simple blockwork kiln to pass your timbers through will help quicken the process and the speed of burning will give different effects."

Tile hanging is a method of cladding a house that is centuries old, yet it remains popular today. In fact, vertical hanging tiles have seen something of a surge in popularity in recent years, edging their way into contemporary house design and dispelling the myth that they are the preserve of the traditional homes of the South East of England only. 

Tile hanging was often used to clad the upper storey of a building and combined with another house cladding material, such as render or brick, on the lower storey. That said, modern-day architects are finding new and interesting ways to add this material to the façades of buildings.

In this guide to tile hung cladding, we explain everything, from its origins to the methods used to fix it as well as costs.

What is Tile Hanging?

Tiling hanging involves installing clay tiles (although other materials such as concrete and slate are used) vertically to act as a cladding, protecting the structure of the building from the elements. It also provides an aesthetically pleasing finish to a property.

The roots of tile hanging as a house cladding method can be traced right back to the end of the 17th century when clay tiles began to be widely used throughout the counties of Kent, Surrey and Sussex. 

House walls were, at this time, constructed using wattle and daub on the upper storeys and house builders were searching for a type of cladding that that would offer better weather protection. 

Clay tiles offered many benefits over bricks during this period, being lightweight enough for the timber framed houses prevalent at that time to hold them as well as becoming more and more widely available. 

In 1784 a brick tax was introduced in Britain, making brick cladding a more expensive option that builders were keen to avoid — plus the practice of hanging tiles required less skill than brickwork meaning it was easier to find labour.  

Further north in the UK, slate tiles were often used for tile hanging. 

Tile hanging is also a popular way to finish the cheeks (sides) of dormer windows and mansard loft conversions. This is because the material is often matched with the tile or slate used for the roof, providing a seamless look.

How is Tile Hanging Fixed to the Wall?

It is possible to fix tile hanging to pretty much any kind of exterior wall, although the method used varies a little. 

When the practice of tile hanging first began, tiles were hung on timber battens that had been plugged into the walls or fixed by wooden pegs, directly into the mortar beds. However, these days a different approach is taken that allows for ventilation under the tiles and free drainage of any water that might get into the membrane beneath.

Before tiles can be hung, an underlay layer is positioned so that it will sit between the battens or counter battens and the wall. 

Timber battens are fixed to the wall horizontally at regular intervals (of a maximum 114mm gauge). In the case of walls constructed of old bricks, very dense concrete blocks or stone, it is best to first fix counter battens vertically at 450 to 600mm centres.

Finally, once the battens are in place, each tile is fixed to a batten with two nails (usually alloy or stainless-steel nails or stainless-steel screws). A wind load calculation should be carried out to check that the fixings used are fit for purpose.

Tiles are fixed with the lower, exposed portion of each tile, laid in a header or stretcher bond pattern.

What Do Vertical Hanging Tiles Cost?

Compared to other types of house cladding, such as timber cladding, tile hanging is not necessarily a budget option.

You can expect to pay from around £46/m² right up to £80/m², including labour, depending on the type of tiles you choose, with concrete plain tiles lying at the lower end of the price scale and handmade feature clay tiles being the premium option. 

One way to keep the costs down is to minimise the use of tile hanging, and combine with another less expensive material such as house render.

Can Roof Tiles Be Used For Tile Hanging?

It is fine to use standard plain clay roof tiles for tile hanging, providing they meet the requirements of BS EN 1304 (a British Standard that all roof and cladding tiles need to adhere to). It will also be necessary to combine them with special tiles to fix at internal and external corners. 

When it comes to slate tile hanging it is best to use a smaller size slate (405 x 205mm is often recommended) as they are less likely to to be lifted in high winds than longer slates. These are then head nailed to 50 x 25mm battens to overlap two slates below. 

In addition to plain tiles, feature tiles are often mixed in to add interest to the façade — fishtail, club, bullnose and arrowhead are all popular. 

Can Concrete Tiles be Hung Vertically?

During the 1960s it wasn't unusual to use concrete tiles for vertical tile hanging. Sometimes people still choose to use concrete tiles and, despite them being heavier than clay and slate, meaning not all are suitable, there are some products out there which will do the job nicely, including Marley's Edgemere interlocking tiles which give a slate effect and Forticrete's plain vertical hanging concrete tiles.

However, many people still opt for natural materials such as clay for tile hanging, given the fact that, unlike roof tiles, hung tiles are viewed closer up — plus, when used up alongside clay bricks, any fading would be very obvious. 

Contemporary Tile Hanging Ideas

Many architects and owners of contemporary style properties are now using some really eye-catching cladding ideas, including brick slips. 

When it comes to using tile hanging as a form of contemporary house cladding traditional materials, such as clay and slate, are still often used, but in more imaginative ways. 

From expanses of rich clay arrowhead tiles to smooth plain tiles in shades of blue and grey — the results can be striking. When the tile hanging matches the tiles on the roof a sleek, streamlined look can be achieved.

As a cladding material for a contemporary extension tile hanging is great too — adding an eye-catching contrast that looks fantastic combined with aluminium-framed glazing.

It isn't just traditional materials that are being used either — porcelain tile hanging is being used more widely in this country now too.

As an alternative to real bricks, brick slips are a great way to achieve a traditional finish on the inside or exterior of your home. If your wall can't take bricks because it can't support them, or there isn't enough space, brick slips come in very handy. 

They are a fantastic way to add an exposed brick wall like finish in a room, such as a kitchen or bathroom. Also, for those building an extension or entire home using timber frame, or adding external wall insulation, brick slips are a common house cladding choice. 

We've gathered together answers to your questions with expert advice and industry opinion to help you decide if brick slips are right for your home. 

What are Brick Slips? 

"A brick slip is a thin slice of brick; it can be either made this way or cut from the face of a full-sized brick," explains Joe Burton, brand director of Brick Tile Company. "Essentially as the 'face' of the brick is cut off to create a tile, you only use the bit you see, brick slips are there to provide the look without the structural aspect of full bricks."

"Brick slips provide the opportunity to have seamless transitions between volumes without interrupting the clean form with different materials," adds Vladimir Krastev, project leader for Bradley Van Der Straeten Architects. 

How Much Do Brick Slips Cost?

The cost of manufactured brick slips is usually a little higher than conventional types of brick. At the lower end you can expect to pay around £18/m2 — and over £60/m2 for premium products. 

For context, cheap bricks tend to cost between £250 and £400 for 1,000 wire-cut facing bricks. (Around £12.5/m2 to £20/m2.)

You also need to take into consideration the mortar mix, backing boards and adhesive. In addition to this, details like corner brick slips are expensive to produce, and all the laying adhesives are more expensive than cement mortar. 

"They can be pre made and laid as tiles, which is pretty straight forward," advises Vladimir Krastev. "But for some of our projects we have needed the builder to cut them on site from existing London stock bricks, and even make custom pieces, which requires many more labour hours, naturally adding to the overall cost." 

Brick slips made from reclaimed bricks will also be more expensive, but there is a great range of size, colour and variation to get an established finish.

How are Brick Slips Made?

Brick slips, as cladding alternatives, can be made one of two ways: 

• Fired in ovens, just like conventional bricks  
• Sliced off the face of standard-width bricks, which is most common 

The directly-fired brick slips are cheaper, but the range of finishes is very limited. 

"You tend to find those pre-moulded as brick slips have a little less character as the clay doesn't have as much room to create creasing and texture," comments Joe Burton.

How Thick are Brick Slips?

"Brick slips are usually 20-22mm thick where they are cut from full bricks," Joe Burton explains. "They can be as thin as 10mm when moulded as slips. 

"The difference here is two-fold, in cutting there is breakage and 22mm is the optimum for keeping as many as possible intact, but also the creasing and texture you get from many full bricks exacerbates that, meaning that potentially a crease can leave only a few mm thickness in it's centre."

Because brick slips are thinner this can mean they weigh less too — ideal when renovating a house and when normal, conventional bricks won’t work.

What are the Advantages of Brick Slips?

Brick slips are used on walls where modern brick design ideas are desired but conventional bricks won’t work, either because they are being fixed to a wall where there is no support for bricks, or because space doesn’t permit conventional brickwork. 

Brick slips are much lighter than conventional brickwork, so they don’t require deep foundations which can potentially save you money. If you don't need to dig deeper foundations to support a wall clad in brick slips you can save on labour costs.

"They also provide the unique opportunity for ‘impossible’ details in brick houses that cannot normally be constructed with ordinary bricks," says Vladimir Krastev.

What's more, they can be used in for interior walls in kitchens, bathrooms or even to accomplish favoured brick fireplace ideas without taking up too much space in an existing room. 

Are Brick Slips Easy to Fit?

"Brick slips are easier to fit than you'd think," comments Joe Burton of Brick Tile Company. "A tiler or bricklayer should be able to do it easily, but it's something that a DIYer can do to a very good standard."

There is no reason why brick slips can't be laid on a DIY basis, provided you have a decent level of competence, as the process is similar as tiling a wall. 

"It's just tiling that is more forgiving, and then piping mortar into the gaps essentially," Joe Burton continues. "The only specialist tools you'd need would be a tile cutter, angle grinder or multi tool to cut them, and a mortar gun and mortar jointing tool to complete the pointing."

As a construction process, the skills required to build a good-looking brick slip wall are rather different to conventional bricklaying. Where a conventional brick wall is self-supporting, brick slips have to be stuck onto some sort of base with an adhesive. 

The joints between the brick slips are then filled or grouted, so that they resemble the spacing of conventional brickwork.

While most brick slips are sold individually, you can get them set in panels which are much quicker to lay.

What Adhesive Should I Use with Brick Slips?

Once you know what surface you are applying your brick slips to, you can choose your adhesive.

Choosing the correct brick slip adhesive can be confusing but there are a few options when it comes to attaching your brick slips:

• A cement-based adhesive, which is similar to that used for tiles. It is often cheaper to buy and better for heavier brick slips and external walls
• An epoxy-based adhesive, which is oil based and ideal for internal walls that won't get wet

Can I Install Brick Slips Over External Wall Insulation?

If you are installing external wall insulation to your house during a renovation, bricks slips can provide the appearance of brick cladding without the expense of building a foundation to support a brick wall. 

This is a very common application for brick slips. There are a range of insulated cladding systems on the market, and several are designed especially for brick cladding.

Where Can I Buy Brick Slips? 

Brick slips tend to be the province of specialists and there are a number of online merchants who have very helpful websites that supply all the accessories required as well as the slips themselves. Many suppliers will send free samples for you to see first.

Brick slips are usually sold in packs of 30, which is enough to cover 0.5m2 of wall. 

Corners, headers and reveals are sold separately. 

What is the Difference Between Brick Slips and Brick Tiles? 

"Brick tiles can be a way to describe brick slips, as a synonym, along with brick veneer, brick facade, thin brick and slim brick. However, confusingly it can also be used to refer to a ceramic tile that is coloured like a brick [as above]. These won't give the same look and feel, but they do provide a cheap replica as brick wallpaper would," says Joe Burton.

As an alternative, the process of cutting thin strips of a face material isn’t limited to brick. It can also be done with attractive facing stone cladding. 

House rendering is one of the most common forms of cladding used on contemporary homes, and for good reason. There are many types of render, each lending themselves to certain uses, ensuring there's a render perfectly suited to virtually any type of property – from lime renders helping old properties breathe to contemporary, crisp Monocouche renders.

When it comes to contemporary ideas for house cladding, rendering is often used as part of a range of materials to create interesting, striking homes. Properties that also use the likes of timber or stone cladding rely on rendered finishes as a supporting character, balancing the look of the house and adding areas of relief to intense, busy finishes.

However, with so many types of render available and so many applications for the external design of your house, you may find it hard to know where to begin in investigating the right render for your project.

Read on for our complete guide to render, alongside advice for the likes of planning permission, maintenance, cost and more. Plus, we've included some incredible self build and renovation inspiration to help showcase what render is capable of as an external finish.

What is house rendering?

Think of house rendering as a type of cladding for the exterior of the house – applied to the exterior of a home, much like plaster is applied to the interior walls.

There are two main reasons for house rendering:

• To protect the underlying house walls from weathering and rainwater penetration
• To provide an attractive appearance to the house

House rendering is largely chosen for its aesthetic value. It's a simple texture, and can be applied in any colour, making it a versatile choice for mixing and matching, or using by itself, on a property. However, it can also be used to help protect walls from damp caused by adverse weather, and acrylic insulated renders can help to make your home more energy efficient.

But, it's not a cheap option for your home, especially over a large property. Make sure you choose the right type of render for your needs and give it proper weather protection to ensure it lasts as long as possible, or else you'll find yourself spending more money on removing it, or on costly render repair. This is particularly the case with cement renders, which have a tendency to crack and may lead to damp issues if water penetrates into these cracks.

These days there is an ever-growing range of house rendering products, from the more traditional lime renders, popular with renovators and those extending period houses, to those that also provide insulation and through-coloured renders.

Applying house render

Render is applied in several coats using a metal trowel. Screed battens are used to level out the render when applied.

When applying render, the base coats (or scratch coats) are scored when they are still wet to give a key for the next layer. The top coat is applied more thinly.

When the render has dried to a putty-like state (or touch dry), it can then be floated to remove any high points and tips, also removing any residual air bubbles.

Types of render

Below are the types of house render to choose from:

1. Cement render

Cement render is usually mixed on site before being applied in two or three coats. Cement render tends to be cheap in terms of materials, but a little more expensive on labour due to the numerous coats.

Modern cement renders are notoriously rigid and prone to developing small cracks over time that allow rain to penetrate, opening the door to frost blowing hollow voids under the surface, loosening the bond.

They will also require regular repainting if they are to continue to look good.

2. Polymer render

Polymer render is usually sold pre-mixed in bags with either white cement or lime as a base. Polymers and other plastic-based products added to them to make the render less prone to cracking. They are available in a variety of colours and are often through-coloured, which does away with the need for painting.

3. Acrylic renders

Acrylic renders are most often applied as a thin finish coat to seal and enhance the appearance or the underlying coat. They also bring colour and texture. Fibres are added to prevent cracking and give a durable, lasting finish.

4. Silicone render

Silicone render is also used as it promises even longer life and the capacity to be self-cleaning – some claim that when it rains, the silicone will allow rainwater to wash away any dirt!

5. Monocouche renders

Monocouche renders (French for ‘single layer’ or ‘bed’ renders) are relative newcomers to the world of house rendering. These products originated in Europe, so many of the big names – Sto, Knauf, Marmorit and Weber – are European.

Monocouche renders have the texture and flexibility of traditional lime renders, helping to eliminate cracking, combined with a hard-wearing, low-maintenance finish that’s weather resistant and visually appealing.

These attributes are probably why mainstream housing developers now use through-coloured renders, usually with a traditional white or sandy lime-coloured finish.

Monocouche render is supplied in bags, ready for mixing with water. It can be applied by hand trowel or sprayed on.

It uses white cement and is pre-coloured (in any colour you want). It can be applied in one coat (typically around 15mm thick), so is quicker and therefore less labour intensive than traditional house rendering products.

The main disincentive for using monocouche render is probably cost.

Conventional sand and cement renders are made with cheap materials and mixed on site before being applied in two or three coats – an established process that’s very familiar to small builders. Premixed monocouche renders are dearer and, although they are quicker to apply (needing only a single coat applied by hand or machine), it can be hard to find trades who are familiar with them.

A 25kg bag of Monocouche render costs between £8-£10/m², while the same size bag of traditional cement render costs around £1/m²

The cost is mitigated by the savings from not having to re-paint, and over time there will be additional savings from not having to redecorate. This is particularly significant with extensions with two or more storeys, where access is difficult and expensive.

6. Lime render

Lime render is really the best option for old houses, where a breathable finish is essential for the house to work as it was originally intended. It is a little more expensive than standard cement renders, but doesn't usually take any longer to apply and is a must for many period properties if problems with damp are to be avoided.

Although lime-based plaster tends to be a little harder to apply than regular Portland cement – meaning it is more commonly used in renovation projects and for conservation work – both Baumit and K Rend now supply polymer-enhanced lime renders which aim to overcome any related difficulties.

The advantages of lime render in include:

• It is more flexible than cement
• It is breathable so prevents problems with moisture getting trapped within the wall – a common problem where cement renders are applied to old walls
• It looks very attractive and enhances the exterior of period homes in particular – though it does require regular coating with lime wash

Lime house rendering products come in many different formats, including:

• Traditional lime putties (bought wet, by the tub)
• Bagged hydraulic limes, which behave rather like a weak cement. They need to be mixed on site with sand, and are hand trowelled in the traditional way
• Monocouche lime renders – try K-Rend and Baumit

7. Coloured house render

While not a specific type of render, coloured render is also worth a mention here too. Render can either be painted or supplied as a through-coloured mix. Although through-coloured render tends to be a little more expensive, it is lower maintenance, requiring no subsequent re-painting. Aim for a tone that either fits in with the materials used on the rest of your home or those used in the local area.

Bear in mind that certain colours, such as a crisp white, will need cleaning or repainting more often in order to stay looking crisp. That said, there are now self-cleaning renders out there, such as PermaRock’s Nano-Quartz technology renders.

These have a surface designed to make it hard for dirt to stick, meaning rain and wind will naturally wash them off.

Using house render with cladding

If you plan on using a combination of cladding materials on your house – great for visual appeal and to avoid a look that is too clinical on contemporary homes – there are a few factors to consider:

• The junction between two different cladding types give rise to potential waterproofing and airtightness problems
• It increases costs due to the requirement for separate suppliers and trades – it is also important to schedule each trade so they don’t overlap
• You need to consider the difference between those claddings which are self-supporting (brick and stone, for example) and those which need to be attached to something, such as render

Using house render and external wall insulation

In the UK, much of the insulation upgrading has been done via the cavity wall, but cavity construction is uncommon in other countries. There the preference has been to add insulation to the outside of the existing walls, and then render over the insulation.

In cases where there is no cavity wall insulation (and no way of adding it in this way, in houses with solid walls, for example) it is useful to consider external wall insulation (EWI) systems. These are made up of insulation layers, meshes and top coat renders.

External wall insulation promises a modern, clean-looking finish and is a great idea for those worried about adding insulation internally to solid walls, due to reducing internal spaces.

While these new systems are more expensive than traditional cement renders, they can often be applied in one coat – greatly reducing labour costs. They can also be applied directly to blockwork or some other substrate, and this has proved popular with those seeking a clean, contemporary finish.

Planning permission for house rendering

If you live in a terraced or semi-detached house chances are you won't need planning permission to render your house, but you will need to think about how the new look render will affect your neighbours.

Most exterior updates such as render, cladding, stone, pebble dash, timber fall under Permitted Development. However it is not permitted under Permitted Development on any dwelling house located on Article 1(5) land which includes designated areas like an AONB, National Park, World Heritage site or Conservation Area.

It's always best to check with your local planning department before starting work.

FAQs

Does house rendering stop damp?

External house rendering is often used when looking at how to fix damp, especially when it is caused by water trapped in cracks between the render and brickwork. However, it should only be used alongside measures to fix the causes of the damp. This may be roof issues or broken guttering and fascia boards, for example. It may even be worth repointing brickwork before rendering in some instances.

Can I render my house DIY?

It's not recommended. Rendering a house is a job best left to the professionals as you will want to get a wonderful, smooth finish for the render to look its best.

Doing it at speed and with enough precision to make it look good is very skilled work, and much like plastering walls, it takes time and expertise.

How often should you render your house?

House rendering should last between 20-30 years on average. Many professional renderers offer a guarantee on your render job of up to 25 years, so look to this for peace of mind.

Can I render a house when it's raining? 

If attempting to render an elevation that's exposed to the elements while it's raining, you may end up with problems, including lime bloom, colour inconsistencies and textural issues. Keep an eye on the weather, as your render will need to be protected during the drying period using constructions of tarpaulin. Your renderer should handle this for you.

Rendering and frost also don't mix, so your renderer shouldn't work with frosted materials, and rendering shouldn't be undertaken when low temperatures are expected during the drying/curing stages.

For more ideas on how to finish the exterior of your home, take a look at your options for zinc cladding, and start to build your budget plans with our guide to external house cladding costs.

The exterior of your home leaves a long-lasting first impression, which means making the right house cladding choice is a matter requiring your time and attention.

However, along with looking at the appearance of house cladding, there's also the matter of how it's installed, how it will weather over time and if it will require a lot of maintenance. Plus, your local planning department may lean towards approving materials typically used in the local area, which could also narrow down your options.

Add to this the all important matter of budget and it's clear that choosing house cladding isn't a quick decision. In this guide to house cladding we take a look at how the experts recommend you choose the best material for cladding a house.

What is house cladding and what is its purpose?

"House cladding is simply a skin of a certain material we use to either protect the property from the elements or to improve the aesthetics of the core structural elements," says Rob Elkins, creative director and chairman of Artel31.

The term can be used to describe any facing material designed to be fixed to either all or part of the outer walls of a house. However, its purpose is not structural.

All houses used to be built with solid walls, using materials that were available nearby, such as stone or brick. But, in the 20th century, things began to change and standard wall-building practice began to use cavities between the inner and outer walls, often referred to as 'leaves' or 'skins'.

This meant that the load-bearing duties were now carried out by the inner leaf, while the weatherproofing was the responsibility of the outer leaf, with heat retention achieved by adding insulation between the two leaves.

As the outer wall no longer had to rest on the ground, instead being hung off the inner skin, it could now be made of much thinner sections with the sole purpose of providing protection from the elements, such as wind and rain.

House cladding ideas therefore often feature materials other than brick and stone, such as timber, tile, render, metal and uPVC amongst others.

Depending on the material, there are also different ways to fix house cladding which can also influence your decision. Sometimes it is attached directly to the wall (as is the case with brick slips, render and stone cladding, for example) or nailed on to timber battens (as with timber cladding).

However it's not just new homes or extensions that can benefit from house cladding. "Increasingly it’s also used as a retrofit solution to add external wall insulation to houses," adds Rob.

Types of house cladding

When it comes to house cladding materials, there is a vast range of options available, with more detailed information on some of the most popular types available in our individual guides.

However, as an overview, the following are the main types of house cladding to consider when choosing how the exterior of your house will be finished:

• Timber cladding
• Brick cladding
• Stone cladding
• Render
• Tile hung cladding
• Flint
• Metal cladding
• uPVC
• Shou Sugi Ban cladding
• Cladding alternatives, such as fibre cement

Each type of house cladding will have its own own pros and cons, costs and methods of installation, but if you're not sure where to start and how to choose, there are some simple steps you can take to kick-start the process.

How to choose house cladding

When cladding a house, the main concern for many homeowners tends to be how it will impact on the appearance of their house and whether it will suit its overall style. That said, your choice may actually be dictated by local planners, particularly if you are taking on a self build project. Often you might be expected to choose a material that fits in with your surroundings or neighbouring properties.

"As an architect I would obviously put aesthetics and performance at the top of the list," adds Rob Elkins, but you should also make sure you think about how it’s installed and maintained to maximise its sustainability.

"We use two hierarchies to help with this – zero waste and eco-toxicity (including Lifecycle Carbon Analysis). Often these can contradict each other with low carbon materials being of higher toxicity, so we end up with a mixed material palette to allow for the different areas."

When it comes to deciding on the aesthetics of house cladding, Rob also offers the following advice.

"Start with a strategy, decide if you want to celebrate vernacular materials or contrast them, then look to enhance the features of value on the property and diminish those of lower or negative value.

"Even simple cladding finishes like render can be improved by varying the finish or creating details to reduce it uniformity," he says. "Finally, always consider how to incorporate improved thermal efficiency as part of the works. Adding insulation makes financial sense, it won’t need to be done again until the cladding is next replaced."

When looking at house cladding, make sure you also consider who will install your house cladding (some timber cladding can be fitted on a DIY basis, for example.)

Weighing up the pros and cons of house cladding types

When weighing up the pros and cons of different types of house cladding, it's worth starting with the bigger picture and then narrowing it down to the specific material in question.

"I would just suggest that everyone starts by thinking about longevity and end of life for the cladding, more than just initial appearance and cost," suggests Rob Elkins.

"If you chose a product that will need regular maintenance you need to ensure its accessible, if it has a short life it needs to be easily replaceable. Length of useful life is often not considered in house cladding cost evaluations."

Once you've narrowed down your options, you can then start to dig into the individual details of each different type, weighing up aesthetics and practicality in equal measures.

Then, if you're looking at timber cladding ideas for example, Tom Barnes, managing director of Vastern Timber offers the following advice.

"Choosing timber cladding can feel overwhelming, with so many factors and options to consider. However, after years of helping clients with their projects, we’ve found that the decision-making process becomes much clearer when you break it down.

"Following this simple five-step approach makes it easier to navigate your options with confidence," says Tom.

1. Wood species and grade
2. Orientation of the boards
3. Fixing method
4. Cladding profile
5. Cladding board width

Cladding and planning permission

Do you need planning permission for external house cladding? Not always. If you are replacing like for like on an existing home, most people re-cladding a house find that the job falls under permitted development.

However, this won’t apply to listed buildings, or on any house on specially protected types of land such as those within a National Park or AONB.

If you live in a terraced or semi-detached house, whilst planning permission might not be a concern, you will also need to think about how the new cladding will affect your neighbours.

"I would always check with your local authority or a professional as although you have certain rights for maintaining your home, there are lots of caveats and local rules that can alter that position," adds Rob Elkins.

"Generally, if you’re thinking of re-cladding your home you should also be looking at options to increase the insulation of the walls at the same time," he advises, "and that should help weigh in your favour, in any application."

FAQs

Is uPVC house cladding a good choice?

uPVC house cladding is often one of the cheapest options when compared to other materials, although it should be noted that some of the top-quality versions may cost no less than timber.

uPVC cladding comes in white, coloured and timber-effect versions and is made from cellular PVC using a process that creates two layers. The outer skin contains UV-resistant titanium-dioxide – meaning that good quality uPVC is long lasting and requires minimal maintenance.

It is easy to fit on a DIY-basis, thanks to its lightweight properties and being sold as interlocking boards. However, the detailing is not always as delicate as that of timber and although lower maintenance than timber equivalents, uPVC can, over time, discolour – unless you are willing to pay more for those higher quality versions. These often come with up to 20-year discolouration guarantees.

What is Shou Sugi Ban cladding?

This is a charred timber cladding that originates from Japan. It might seem like a new idea, but is in fact a practice that has been around for hundreds of years in Japan.

It involves running a blowtorch across the surface of the timber boarding to blacken it, but not to burn it. The resulting look is a very attractive, black finish with lots of visual interest.

How are vertical hanging tiles used as cladding?

Tile hanging can be a great cladding option and it isn't just for those after a traditional-style home either.

A prominent feature of many houses in the South-East of England, tile hanging doesn’t come in cheap, at around £46/m², depending on the tiles (handmade clay will be considerably more expensive than concrete) but adds a great deal of character to a building.

There are contemporary tile hanging options too – large format porcelain tile cladding is also now available.

What types of house render are there?

There are many house rendering ideas to consider when it comes to external house cladding. As well as the standard cement-based renders there has been fresh interest in lime and clay plasters, as well as ‘monochouche’ (French for ‘single layer’ or ‘bed’) renders.

Monocouche renders use white cement and are pre-coloured, so that what you are applying is as much a decorative finish as a weatherproofing layer. They can be applied in one coat (typically around 15mm thick) and so, even though they will increase your house rendering costs initially, are less labour intensive than traditional renders. They'll also mean lower maintenance in the long-run — you won't need to re-paint them five to 10 years.

What is fibre cement cladding?

Pre-finished fibre cement board cladding is a long-lasting and very 'hands-off' option. It is available in a wide variety of colours and finishes and has many benefits.

"One of the trends we are seeing now is towards more natural products with homeowners increasingly thinking about the environmental impact of the products they use," explains Lisa Grosse, brand manager at Cedral. "Fibre cement uses fewer raw materials and less energy in its manufacture, produces less waste than some traditional building materials and is fully recyclable.

For some, the uniform, ‘perfect’ appearance of fibre cement cladding appeals, while others prefer the more natural, rustic appeal of real timber. Glass reinforced concrete cladding panels are another option.

Are brick slips an option when cladding a house?

Brick is often laid as a self-supporting, ground-bearing skin. However, brick slips are also an option and can be used both inside and outside the home when looking at your cladding options.

These are hung off a metal base that is fixed to an inner wall and, due to their thin profile, they can be a good option when installing external wall insulation to a home. However, although they are quick to lay, bear in mind that brick slips are an expensive house cladding option.

What types of stone cladding are there?

Stone house cladding is a popular choice with those after a warm, classic appearance, although, depending on the stone used, it can also create a very contemporary look.

It is considerably cheaper than using solid stone for the construction of a house, with some types coming in at around the same price as render.

Stones suitable for cladding include sandstone, slate and even limestone. Often, local planners will dictate they type of stone that can be used depending on what the local stone is in the area you are building.

What is 'rainscreen cladding'?

A rainscreen is a term that applies to an integrated system, complete with a concealed steel framework on which the external cladding material is fixed. It is also known as curtain walling and can be made from metal, glass or a modern take on traditional materials, such as tiles.

Ask the manufacturer about warranties for the cladding, and check that the material is acceptable to your structural insurance provider, to ensure that you’re covered.

How can I increase kerb appeal with house cladding?

If you are looking to make a quick profit from your home or just want to update the look of your house on a budget, consider simply improving on what you already have.

There are several ways to improve the appearance or 'kerb appeal' of a house without fully cladding it. For instance, painting any ugly brickwork or dirty grey pebble-dash a fresh new shade may well suffice.

Bear in mind, too, that it may not be necessary to clad the entire house – often focusing on just the upper storey or including a feature panel will smarten up an exterior.

Rob Elkins' final advice when choosing a material for cladding a house?

"From a design perspective, I tend to favour natural or honest materials that age gracefully and suit the building’s context, such as stone and charred/thermally treated timber.

"They offer a rich appearance and improved durability without the use of chemicals. I then love to contrast them with small areas of metal for its contrasting uniformity and elegance.

"That said," he adds, "the best choice always depends on context, budget, and design intent."

For inspiration take a look at our guide to zinc cladding ideas and if you've ever found yourself intrigued by the rich tones of steel, find out all you need to know about corten steel as a potential cladding choice.

There’s a lot to be said for the benefits of living walls for the right home. What may seem like style over substance to some can be a valuable addition to others. This is especially the case in urban properties where space is in short supply and there’s no natural connection to, well, nature, or when replacing lost green space to ensure an eco house retains its biophilic credentials. 

Living walls are available both as professionally installed systems and on a DIY basis, and having had experience in installing both in projects, I can tell you there’s quite a difference between the two in terms of the sophistication of their systems and the likelihood of their eventual survival. 

However, the DIY approach can succeed if you’re comfortable with what grows well in your garden, and where. 

But no matter what your approach is, choosing a living wall requires a certain level of investment. They also present their own, individual challenges when it comes to maintenance which, if underestimated, could leave your living wall looking rather less than living. 

What are Living Walls?

Living walls, sometimes referred to as vertical gardens or plant walls, are systems that are used to create a planted area on a vertical surface. These systems are usually made up of individual pockets or planters, which carry up the entire wall, meaning that the chosen plants are planted in the soil (or other planting medium) entirely up the wall, while alternatives such as climbing plants trailed up a house’s façade are rooted in the earth at ground level. 

Usually, these systems are attached to solid walls and due to the nature of their maintenance, fitted with irrigation systems. 

Where can a Living Wall be Installed?

As previously mentioned, living walls are perfectly suited to homes with limited outdoor space, however, they can also be used as a feature in a larger garden design.  

Plant walls are particularly effective in courtyard gardens, where there isn’t a vast amount of space for planting, as well as internal courtyards, balconies and for lining light wells. 

(MORE: Explore More Small Garden Design Ideas in our Gallery)

Likewise, they make an effective feature on boundary walls, especially when used in coordination with large windows and doors, creating a green sightline rather than a standard brick wall or the like. 

They can also be used as a form of house cladding for the exterior of properties, in a similar way that a green roof is used as a roof covering. You’ll often see this used in modern commercial properties, but there are smaller scale design options for contemporary houses. 

What are the Benefits of a Living Wall?

 Benefits of living walls include: 

• Increasing or replacing biodiversity. If removing a lawn for hard landscaping, for example, a living wall can provide insect-friendly planting as a replacement. 
• Acoustic benefits include exterior living walls reducing noise pollution from outside and reducing noise transfer indoors. 
• Living walls retain rainwater, reducing the amount that waste water reaching over-burdened drains.
• There are health benefits related to biophilic design principles that a living wall can contribute to.

While it’s often stated that plants are a great way to improve air quality, especially inside your home, some studies have shown that the improvement of air quality is in negligible amounts, and that much more research is required. However, a living wall means a lot of plants, so there’s some hope that this concentration of air purifying qualities may be more effective than the odd houseplant scattered about.  

Are There Any Drawbacks to a Living Wall?

Professionally installed living walls are expensive, both to install and maintain. While DIY systems are available, it’s the professional systems with planting designs by experts that are most likely to succeed and thrive. 

A poorly planned and specified plant wall is unlikely to look its best for long, and if large swathes of plants die, you’ll be left with a prominent eyesore in your outdoor space. Bear in mind that you’re likely to have to replace plants regularly — let’s say around 5 to 10% a year. 

Maintaining a plant wall is also more difficult than a horizontal garden as you may require specialist equipment to be able to tend to the higher reaches of the wall. 

Are There any Locations Which are More Favoured for Living Walls?

 The success of your plant wall will largely depend on what you plant versus where you plant it, but certain locations will work better overall than others. “Ideally, the living wall should get 10 hours of daily light,” suggests Henry Scott, Director of Pehrrson Scott Landscape & Garden Design. “If you can't find a spot with that much sunlight, pick a wall that receives roughly 4 hours of midday/morning light — at the same time, keeping it safe from the scorching afternoon sun.” 

Can you Introduce a Living Wall Within a Home? 

There are options for interior plant walls too; however, drainage is something you’ll need to consider if using an irrigation system. I’ve seen examples of interior living walls that have been incorporated as part of an extension design, including drainage or building in a recirculation tank. Alternatively, there are DIY systems that are fine to use internally, but that rely on careful manual watering so that there’s no dripping of excess water (hopefully). 

Installing a living wall internally will also, of course, have an effect on the types of planting used, as well as factoring in the potential for lower light levels indoors. Having had an interior living wall installed in my own living room for several years, I found that tropical plants that require low light levels such as Monstera and Calathea are particularly well suited and thrive in a plant wall setting. 

You could also consider the following for use indoors as they're relatively low maintenance:

• Anthurium
• Dracaena
• Pothos
• Philodendron

Are There any Additional Requirements to consider During Installation? 

Living walls tend to be installed for instant gratification, meaning that plants used on installation are mature and full. The size and spread of your choices for the plant wall are important, as this will affect how visible the system is. Systems are usually clad in natural finishes or coloured black or green to help the infrastructure fade into the background. 

Recirculating irrigation systems have a feed tank kit that you’ll need to find room for. 

If creating a feature with a living wall, you should also consider outdoor lighting to highlight it during the evenings. Uplighters are an effective way to highlight a plant wall. Your best choice is hardwired in lighting controlled by an internal switch for convenience, but solar powered lights can also look good. 

What are the Different Types of Living Wall Systems?

There are several types of living wall systems, but the majority that are installed in homes are modular systems, which can be adapted to different sizes and shapes. These can take different formats, from long tray-like planters which contain multiple plants to individual pocket planters. Others, such as freestanding and tray living walls are more used for applications like office spaces. 

Geotextile living wall systems are also available. In these systems, plants can be directly placed into small, non-biodegradable fabric pockets. Some are soil-free, meaning the roots of the plant are allowed to travel through the geotextile, while some use soil. These systems are often cheaper than structured living wall systems and are much lighter.

What Plants Lend Themselves to Living Walls? 

The nature of a living wall system means plants chosen need to offer volume that will fill out the pockets or trays and obscure the infrastructure from view. Consider texture and colour in your choices too. A living wall using a single type of plant will look monotonous in terms of texture, and adding some contrast, whether that’s flowering plants or darker-leaved varieties (something like a deep purple Heuchera looks great), can really add depth and interest. 

In terms of plant species that will thrive in a living wall setting, it depends on the aspect of the wall and whether it’s in sun or shade. However, Henry Scott has several suggestions: “Pachysandra is an evergreen that grows in full or part shade. Erigeron is an invaluable living wall plant that loves the sun, while Heuchera would thrive with some sun and part shade.”

“If the wall you are trying to decorate obtains less than half a day of sunlight in the middle of summer, then choose a plant selection that prefers the shade. In other words, pick a spot that’s best suited for the plant, not somewhere you think would look better.”

Living wall systems are often used to create vast expanses of green leafy plants, but they lend themselves to all kinds of uses. You could create vertical flower beds for a cottage garden for example, or how about a herb garden adjacent to your kitchen doors? From coastal-style grasses to jungle-esque ferns, the sky’s the limit.

How do you Water a Living Wall?

There are two primary types of irrigation systems for a green wall: direct irrigation and recirculating irrigation,” says Pehrrson Scott’s Henry Scott. Recirculating systems, as the name suggests, recirculates the water through the wall via a pump, similar to what you’d expect to see in a water feature, however the water is stored with nutrient supplements in a feed tank.  

“The direct system is a bit more complex,” says Henry. “The water often comes from a city water line and is given to the plant with the help of water pressure. It can come with a fertiliser injection and water filter.” In this instance, water is removed via a drain, either directly or via a drip tray which is later diverted to your drainage system. 

How do you Maintain a Living Wall? 

Maintenance of a living wall incorporates the basics of garden upkeep, plus a few extra elements. This means it's not necessarily a low maintenance garden idea. 

Upkeep includes:

• Keeping the wall appropriately irrigated
• Pruning plants as required
• Preserving the quality of the soil
• Protecting against pests 

Further maintenance for a living wall with an irrigation system includes checking that this is functioning correctly and there are no blockages. 

Due to the nature of a living wall, and the cost of installation, most professional installers offer a maintenance contract for regular upkeep, often including plant replacement, to keep a living wall looking its best. This will include servicing of the irrigation system and checks to ensure the structural integrity of the plant wall system. 

Maintenance contracts tend to be quarterly or monthly. You can expect to pay 10% of the overall cost of your plant wall per year on maintenance. 

When it comes to preventing a living wall from dying, there’s no magic trick. A well-specified set-up with plants appropriate for the conditions of the plant wall, along with proper maintenance is the only way. 

How Long do Living Walls Last? 

While a living wall, with the right care, shouldn’t necessarily have a shelf life at all, you can expect to have to replace plants regularly and invest heavily (whether that’s time or money) in maintenance.   

How Much Does a Living Wall Cost to Install? 

The larger the wall, the less cost per square metre of installing a vertical garden. When using a living wall kit, you can expect to spend £250 per square metre. An irrigation system will cost around £350 altogether. Plants are an additional cost, which will depend on the type of planting you choose and the maturity of those plants, but budget for around £100 per square metre. 

For a large living wall, you can expect to see prices of £15,000 plus all in. 

Can I Create a Living Wall on a Budget? 

DIY and self install living wall kits are widely available, and the kits themselves are relatively inexpensive. These systems won’t include irrigation systems as such, but they often feature a drip down watering function, which means that the planters are designed in a way that the water filters down from the top to the bottom. I’m not sure how effective this drip down is in reality, but I’ve only used these systems indoors, so they might work better with rainfall as the source of irrigation. 

Much of the cost for these living wall systems come from the plants themselves, as each pocket requires an individual plant. For an effective finish, these plants need to be large enough for the foliage to cover the system itself, however, if you have the time to wait for the living wall to establish, you can make savings by buying young plants. 

This small interior living plant wall I once had in my own home is made up of 30 plantable pockets. Take an average cost of between £5-£8 for each plant and this living plant wall costs £150-£240 in plants, on top of the system cost. Across a larger plant wall, you can expect to easily spend several thousand on plants, no matter how budget-friendly the installation system is.

New government commitments to improve cladding fire safety have been announced to ensure stricter regulation of high-rise buildings in England. 

The Building Safety Bill was published by the government this week, two years after it was initially included in the 2019 Queen's Speech.

Most of the changes were announced in the Queen's Speech earlier this year, including the appointment of a new Building Safety Regulator for building safety will be appointed, but we now know how this role will work. 

The new Building Safety Regulator will aim to introduce a better safety system and impose sanctions and regulations to ensure the 2017 Grenfell tragedy, in which 72 residents died, never happens again. 

There will also be significant reforms for regulating the safety of high-rise buildings, and inspecting construction sites.

(MORE: Cladding a House: Everything You Should Know)

New Pledges for Cladding Fire Safety

These are the key points from the Building Safety Bill which will set the pathway for how residential buildings are constructed and maintained.

The Building Safety Regulator

The Building Safety Regulator will have three main functions: 

• Overseeing the safety and performance system for all buildings
• Encouraging the improvement of competence in the built environment sector
• Leading the implementation of the new regulatory regime for higher-risk buildings

The regulator will also have a variety of enforcement powers to ensure the maintenance of high-rise buildings. And if developers fail to meet these requirement, they could be prosecuted, while manufacturers could have their construction products taken off the market.

The role will be operational within 12 to 18 months, but until then Peter Baker, the director of building safety and construction at the Health and Safety Executive, will lead the work to set up the role.

Extended time to pursue claims

Residents will now have 15 years to pursue a claim against a developer or builder for sub-standard or unsafe work.

New regulatory measures

The Bill will ensure clear identification of people responsible for safety during the design, build and occupation of a high-rise residential building.

But Many Residents Still Have Huge Cladding Bills

Unfortunately for many leaseholders, there was nothing included in the Building Safety Bill to help with the bills they must pay for the removal of unsafe cladding and other fire safety work.

The new Bill requires building owners to demonstrate they have explored alternative ways to meet remediation costs before passing them on to leaseholders, but does not ensure leaseholders will be protected from charges for remedial safety work. 

It is feared that as many as 700,000 people are living in high-rise blocks with flammable cladding, and face huge costs to remove it. A committee of MPs estimated in February that the total cost of the so-called cladding scandal could run to £15bn.

Earlier this year, the government announced an additional £3.5bn to repair hundreds of thousands of potentially unsafe buildings, adding to the £1.6bn previously pledged in the Building Safety Fund in 2020. 

This £5bn funding will be used to pay for removal of unsafe cladding for all leaseholders in high-rise residential buildings which are 18 meters and higher, or above six storeys.

In buildings below 18m, housing secretary Robert Jenrick said that the risks from unsafe cladding are "significantly lower", but where cladding needed to be removed, a long-term scheme will protect leaseholders to ensure they pay no more than £50 a month for the removal of unsafe cladding.

He also confirmed that the government would develop a levy targeted at developers seeking to build certain high-rise buildings in England. And there will be a new tax for the UK residential property sector from 2022, which will raise money to help pay for the removal of cladding.

"I Wish More Developers Had Paid Up"

Fury remains among campaigners who claim the government has not protected leaseholders enough amid spiralling costs for fire safety measures.

Discussing the new 15-year timeframe to sue developers, The UK Cladding Action Group said this offers little help because leaseholders cannot afford to pay solicitors up front.

Mr Jenrick said earlier this week on BBC One’s The Andrew Marr Show: “I wish we hadn’t reached this point. I wish more developers had paid up.”

The government has also been criticised for rejecting an amendment to the Fire Safety Act 2021 passed into law in May, which would have protected leaseholders from fire safety bills.

Housing minister Christopher Pincher said the proposed protection for leaseholders was too widely drawn and "lacked clarity". But is now feared that the legislation could see hundreds of thousands of leaseholders face fire safety bills of up to £100,000. 

Homeowners trapped in unsellable flats have since threatened protests and campaigning throughout the summer.

A spokesman for End Our Cladding Scandal, a coalition of homeowners from across the country, said in May: “We are feeling deflated but we have been here before. We have got a band of Conservative MP supporters now and there will be no end to campaigning. We are taking some time to regroup and then plan a rally and protest in the summer."

What is the So-Called Cladding Scandal?

Following the Grenfell Tower fire in 2017, round-the-clock fire patrols were established in hundreds of buildings. Fixing safety faults has seen costs surge for leaseholders, while residents have experienced rocketing insurance costs on buildings with fire safety problems.

The Daily Mail reported earlier this year that insurance claims have soared by £1.6bn a year for those living in unsafe homes, and the Sunday Mirror revealed that a residents group of leaseholders in Greenwich experienced an insurance quote increase of £535,000. 

Government data released in July 2020 revealed that cladding removal and repair work has been completed on just 58% of social housing blocks and 30% of private sector buildings.

To speed up the pace of removing unsafe cladding from high rise residential buildings, Labour has called for a National Cladding Taskforce to be established, a move which has been backed by the British Safety Council.

Earlier this year the government launched a consultation on a new code of practice (which closed in June) for assessing buildings’ external walls and cladding system.

Stone cladding is a popular choice for many self builds and extensions, especially in rural settings and areas where stone is a large part of the vernacular of local buildings —  a quick and effective alternative to traditional methods of building with natural stone. 

However, stone cladding is also a great choice for a modern home design that’s sympathetic to its surroundings, with many sleek and contemporary options for cladding your home with stone available. 

(MORE: House Cladding)

In our guide to stone cladding, we look at the types of products available to buy on the market, the benefits and challenges, and how much it costs. 

What are the Benefits of Using Stone Cladding?

The main benefits of stone cladding come in the comparison to the alternative — building with natural stone. 

"Traditional stonework requires a reputable stone mason for installation however, there is often a shortage of available skilled tradesmen in this field," explains Lorraine Davis, Lorraine Davis, Internal Sales and Marketing Co-ordinator at LBS Products. "This along with the high level of wastage associated with using quarry stone can make traditional stone masonry a very expensive option."

Modern stone cladding systems eliminate the need for specialist labour and create virtually no waste. Stone cladding is also a fraction of the weight of natural stone built on bed, plus it's quick to install. "There's the productivity potential in excess of 25m2 a day," says Wild-Stone's Peter Bayliss. 

In relation to other types of cladding, stone cladding also has all the benefits of natural stone, including being relatively maintenance free. Natural stone cladding also offers an attractive option for homes that are required to be sympathetic to their surroundings, especially for homes in designated areas such as Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty and conservation areas, which tend to be more rural or focus on more traditional building products. 

(MORE: Matching Materials)

What Types of Stone Cladding are Available?

Stone cladding tends to be available in two formats:

• Panels
• Individual slip veneers

Panels are quicker and easier to install, and don't require you to plan the layout of individual slips ahead of time. Stone cladding panels tend to be used for highly textured designs such as split-face cladding, where panel joins will be less noticeable. 

Some panels will also have extra fixings for attaching panels at heights, minimising the risk of panels dislodging and falling from a great height, causing damage or the risk of harming someone standing nearby. "We recommend that Z Stone SKY Panel is used at heights above 3m," says LBS Product's Lorraine Davis. Each of these panels has stainless steel clips built in to it, providing a secondary fixing to secure each panel. 

Individual slip veneer cladding is more time-intensive to install, but more customisable, allowing you to plot out individually how the stone cladding will sit. A good stone cladding system with individual slips will all be cut to the same thickness, but be in random heights and widths, and also feature corner pieces, if desired, to recreate the look of stone-built houses,

Another option for corners is to include quoin stones in your cladding design. These tend to be more structured, contrasting rectangular stone or brick cladding, recreating the idea of cornerstones used in traditional stone masonry builds.

What Types of Stone can be Used for Cladding?

Stone cladding is available in a number of types of stone, but the most common are:

• Granite
• Sandstone
• Limestone
• Slate 
• Marble
• Quartz

Knapped flint is also often used for cladding, but is less likely to be found in a cladding system. Using flint as a cladding is more of a specialist skill in comparison to the simpler nature of installing a stone cladding system. 

How Easy is Stone Cladding to Maintain?

Stone cladding requires very little maintenance. Sealing isn't a necessity, however, it will offer extra protection and make cleaning easier if areas do become dirty.
Consider sealing in high traffic areas or when used in water features. 

"When cleaning stone cladding do not use hydrochloric acid as it can cause minerals present in the stone to react," warns LBS' Lorraine. 

Stone cladding is very durable, and will last a long time, depending largely on the construction system it's installed on. "We offer a 25-year system warranty for solid brick, stone, or concrete construction and a 15-year warranty using timber Quoin frame construction," says Peter from Wild-Stone. 

Is Stone Cladding Expensive?

Stone cladding is one of the more expensive cladding options for your build, however, it's far cheaper than building with traditional stonework. 

While stone cladding can cost from as little as £40-£70/m2 on its own, your choice of panel or individual slip will affect the final cost, including installation. Expect to pay from £100/m2 for stone cladding panels and up to £150/m2 for individual stone slips, both installed. 

Corten steel, or weathered steel cladding, is corrosion resistant while maintaining tensile strength. By adding alloying elements (copper, chromium and nickel), the rust film congeals on the surface and virtually stops all further rusting.

How does Corten Steel weather?

While other metals used in construction are designed to resist corrosion, Corten invites rust to form on its surface. The rust itself forms a film which covers the surface and forms a protective layer. You don’t need to treat it and you certainly do not paint it: it’s all about making rusty steel look attractive.

When it’s supplied to site, it looks just like you’d expect sheet steel to look, all black and shiny. Put it up against the elements and the rust gradually takes hold. It first turns a streaky yellow, which tones down to orange and after a decade or two this all goes a gorgeous dark-brown purple colour.

How long will Corten Steel last?

Rusting Corten should in theory last a couple of centuries, provided the climate is not too hostile — it doesn’t like sea salt, as this tends to eat through the congealed rust layer.

What are the drawbacks to using Corten Steel?

While it is largely rust-proof, there are inevitably small amounts of rust which tend to pool underneath the installation. It is worth therefore paying attention to locating it above surfaces that don’t stain or will be disfigured in any way.

Is it practical to use as a wall cladding?

Yes – it’s no longer the preserve of the cutting edge and it is beginning to move mainstream. In fact, it can be fixed in a number of ways, depending on its use.

How can I be sure I am getting the real thing?

The name Corten (also written Cor-ten) is trademarked to US Steel, the inventors of the alloy. US Steel sold the Corten business to the Indian multinational ArcelorMittal in 2003 and no longer produces any Corten, but the company maintains the rights to the name.

There are many producers around that produce weathering steel that is often referred to as Corten. Specifiers wanting the real thing have to pay a little more and for this they get a stamped receipt.

How much does Corten cost?

Corten is around three times as expensive as ordinary mild steel plate. Yet looks identical when new, so it’s perhaps not a bad idea to get some verification as to what you are paying for, as the finished look won’t reveal itself for a decade or two.

As a base metal, Corten sheet is similar in price to metals like zinc or copper. It will never compete with the usual claddings like brick, timber and render, but is perhaps comparable with stone or glass.

If the term Shou Sugi Ban isn’t one you’re familiar with, you’ll undoubtedly recognise the style of this charred timber cladding when you see it. 

The ancient Japanese wood charring art has grown in popularity in recent years as a dark, dramatic and contemporary exterior treatment for self builds and extensions. 

Charred timber may also be used internally, as a wall covering or even for furniture, and it can be oiled in a variety of finishes. 

As it’s popularity has grown, so have the options for sourcing materials to achieve the charred timber look. Here we take a look at the essentials of Shou Sugi Ban and how it can be used to add a unique spin to your project.

What is Shou Sugi Ban?

Shou Sugi Ban originated in 18th-century Japan as a method of charring cedar in order to colour, waterproof and preserve the timber, as well as making it resistant to fire, rot, insects and UV effects from the sun. 

The overall look of the cladding is dark and homogeneous, yet each timber is highly individual. The texture and grain of the wood is brought out by an incredible range of subtle purple, blue and silver tones appearing against the charcoal black. The finished surface texture can then be brushed or left raw.

Shou Sugi Ban can be treated with a fire rating of class 1 and 0. 

Which Kind of Wood do You Use for Shou Sugi Ban?

Timber species suitable for charring include:

• Oak
• Douglas fir
• Western red cedar

The harder the timber (i.e. oak or larch) the more durable it will be, and the longer it will withstand the weather and retain its looks. “The most commonly used timber is Siberian larch, and there are two other timbers we recommend that are hands down the best in terms of durability and aesthetic,” says Venetia Harrison of specialist company Shou-Sugi-Ban. “Accoya carries a 50-year warranty against rot, and Kebony a 25-year warranty, and they are among the most eco-friendly timbers available.”

How Does the Shou Sugi Ban Process Work?

The process starts by charring the wood evenly on both sides to avoid it bending out of shape from the heat. Excess carbon can then be removed to clean the wood and add texture.

Once the timber has cooled down it may be finished with a natural oil to seal and protect it from dirt, water and changes in humidity.

The process is not an exact science and there will be slight surface burn variations throughout the board length, which adds to the unique characteristics.

Charring the outer surface brings out the richness of the wood and the grain structure, while varying the intensity of the burning process produces different finishes – from a traditional highly charred look to a sleeker, more contemporary brushed effect.

Some finishes are more durable than others, with brushing resulting in a smooth board. If brushed further, the natural timber will be exposed.

Traditionally, charred products which are untreated can be fragile and need to be handled and stored carefully. Boards which have been brushed and/or treated will still need to be handled with care.

Is Shou Sugi Ban Expensive?

Prices starting from around £120/m2 plus VAT, depending on the finish, quantity, timber and profile.

This represents a significant expense in comparison to the approximate costs of other timber cladding, such as uncharred cedar from £30/m2 and even timber effect fibre cement board from £45/m2.  

How Long Does Shou Sugi Ban Cladding Last?

In some cases, charred timber can last up to 120 years, due to the protective layer created by carbon released during the charring process. 

Can I DIY Shou Sugi Ban? 

“What I love about charred timber is that you can do it yourself,” says architect Laura Jane Clark. While Shou Sugi Ban refers to a specific, specialist technique, there are ways to create a similar look on a DIY basis. 

Although it is labour intensive and obviously safety is paramount when working with fire, the end results on anything from cedar cladding to scrap pine can be spectacular. If you are up

for a bit of an adventure, then purchasing a gas blow torch is a very cost-effective but lengthy way to produce charred timber cladding. 

Creating a simple blockwork kiln to pass your timbers through will help quicken the process and the speed of burning will give different effects.

A quick, light burn will give good surface charring, bringing out the colours of the timber, while a longer burn time will deepen the texture and depth of the charcoal colour range. Cedar is by far the superior wood to use, and the most authentic. You can often get uneven pink or red toned runs of cedar cladding as cheaper seconds from timber yards.

However, some say it’s a skill best left to the professionals. “We don’t recommend that anybody tries charring timber on a DIY basis, as the process is potentially dangerous,” suggests Venetia Harrison.

How to Get the Shou Sugi Ban Look for Less

There are composite boards that are manufactured to give the appearance and texture of charred wood available from companies such as Millboard. 

The approximate cost for such boards for decking and cladding is around £50/m2.

Such cladding is fuss free and gives a similarly harmonious and unique look to Shou Sugi Ban. 

As this option is usually a proprietary system, it also comes with the advantage of easy installation.

Content supplied by James Hardie

Kerb appeal counts when it comes to houses, for the people that live there as much as for visitors. When it comes to home improvements, it can be easy to overlook the external in favour of internal improvements as we redecorate or restructure the space into the home we want it to be, that works best for our needs – whether that’s for more room, places where families can come together or decoration that expresses our personality and lifts our mood.

But that sense of achievement should be extended to the outside of the house. The exterior can have just as much potential for updating and elevating its looks as the inside.

The transformed facade won’t just hide or replace the more tired aspects of a home, like the battered brickwork or crumbing render, it can make the dated seem modern, give a bland building personality or make an architectural statement that helps your home stand out among its neighbours.

Cladding can transform

Cladding is an excellent way to achieve this. Whether it is the whole house or just part of it, cladding can add an extra dimension to a home and make the ugly look lovely. Traditionally wood planks or strips were used for cladding, with evidence of its use dating back as far as the fifth century. Now cement weatherboard, a 20th-century creation, has become a popular and practical alternative that can very convincingly mimic the look of wood or even stone.

In most cases, cladding is an update you can make to your exterior without needing to apply for planning permission. There are exceptions if your house is listed, in a Conservation Area or an Area of Outstanding National Beauty, so check with your local authority to make sure. 

Long-lasting and protective

Fibre cement weatherboard is a very affordable option that can result in an upscale look. It is durable and low maintenance, not requiring the same upkeep as some natural cladding. Quick to install, it also comes in a variety of colour options, baked on at the factory rather than painted when on site, so no VOCs are released into the atmosphere. 

And they come in different textures for additional interest up close – whether you prefer a rougher more rustic appearance, or something smooth and contemporary. Coupled with moisture-preventative products, such as flashing and tape, it can also form an effective barrier to inclement weather.

Full of design possibilities

The decision of how much cladding you use and the way it is laid is about much more than pattern, it is about the feeling they can give to a house. A classic look is where the horizontal planks overlap or have an open joint. Or they can be laid vertically in a hit and miss style, with every other plank standing out while its neighbour is shallower. 

If you prefer a more seamless modern style, the planks can link smoothly together. Timber-effect cladding all over a larger house can give a colonial appearance or evoke a New England feel. The instantly recognisable homes along the American east coast were actually inspired by the architecture and design of English houses, the ideas brought across and recreated by the 17th century settlers.

Add a modern twist

Laying fibre cement weatherboard in differenr colours or in different patterns, whether that’s horizontally, diagonally or vertically, can give a fresh modern look to a mid-century house.

Using the timber-look cladding on the top floor of a property can be a popular option, it can highlight particularly features, such as windows, or create a pleasing contrast with the brick or render on the first floor. The possibilities are as endless as your imagination.

The HardiePlank® Product Family

HardiePlank® cladding by  James Hardie® is a versatile, low-maintenance weatherboard that looks like natural cedar or larch. It comes pre-made in an array of durable, fade-resistant finishes with a choice of 21 colours and two textures (smooth and natural cedar mill). The colour is actually baked on in the factory so it won’t be affected by the weather. 

The new HardiePlank® VL fibre cement board is an easy to fit interlock weatherboard with a chic design and timeless flat finish. Beautiful and durable, it can be installed horizontally or vertically, perfect for a contemporary design.

Available in a natural cedarmill finish, HardiePlank® VL comes in a timeless colour palette of six colours to maximize architectural features from graphic monochrome and soft pastels to muted greys.

For more information or to make an enquiry, please email info@jameshardie.co.uk

Content supplied by James Hardie

How can you take a boring brick house and make it beautiful? Home transformation shows have demonstrated that it is possible to breathe new life into a tired façade and disguise a dated design with the application of some colourful cladding.

Whether it covers the whole of the exterior or is just used on one level to create contrast between the floors, the impact it has can be dramatic.

But the function of cladding isn’t simply decorative, it is also protective, insulating and low maintenance.

Originally cladding would have been made from wood, a traditional and plentiful building material. Now cement weatherboard can produce the same classic look of overlaid planks, but they are lighter and more hardwearing, and can weather the elements while the colour remains bright.

Five Reasons to Choose Fibre Cement Weatherboard

Versatile Patterns

The fibre cement weatherboard planks can be laid horizontally, vertically and even diagonally to create arresting designs. The laying style includes traditional shiplap, where the edges of the plank overlap; open joint, with a defined gap between the planks; and hit and miss which has alternating raised and recessed planks.

Fade Resistance

As welcome as hot, sunny days might be, your enjoyment of them shouldn't be marred by seeing your cladding being damaged by the sun’s ultraviolet rays. James Hardie's ColourPlus™ Technology has been engineered to provide up to 30 per cent more fade resistance than many alternative cladding finishes or coats of paint. So whatever the shade, from rich browns to classic creams, it will remain looking fresh.

Colour Consistency

Patchy paintwork can make cladding look worn and weather-battered. Multiple coats of paint applied at optimal thickness and then fully cured ensure an high quality consistent finish across all of the weatherboard, and one that will remain constant even when battered by wind, rain or frost, and resistant to being bleached by the sun.

Green Colours

Paints applied to cladding on site can be harmful to the environment if they contain VOCs (volatile organic compounds) – gases which can be released from certain household products, including paints and wood preservatives, that can pollute the air and cause health problems. However, if the colour is baked on in the factory, it is a more eco-friendly choice with no risk of VOCs. The finish also doesn’t require regular repainting.

Fire Safe

Cladding can not only dramatically transform the look of your house, it can insulate it, helping to stop heat from escaping. It is also reassuringly safe in the event of a fire. The highest possible rating for coloured fibre cement cladding is A2, s1 d0. That means that it is a non-combustible cladding and will not ignite when exposed to direct flame or extreme heat, nor will it contribute fuel to a fire.

HardiePlank® Product Family

HardiePlank cladding by  James Hardie® is a versatile, low-maintenance weatherboard that looks like natural cedar or larch. It comes pre-made in an array of durable, fade-resistant finishes with a choice of 21 colours and two textures (smooth and natural cedar mill). The colour is actually baked on in the factory so it won’t be affected by the weather. 

The new HardiePlank VL fibre cement board is an easy to fit interlock weatherboard with a chic design and timeless flat finish. Beautiful and durable, it can be installed horizontally or vertically, perfect for a contemporary design.

Available in a natural cedarmill finish, HardiePlank® VL comes in a timeless colour palette of six colours to maximize architectural features from graphic monochrome and soft pastels to muted greys.

For more information or to make an enquiry, please email info@jameshardie.co.uk

Content supplied by James Hardie

Fibre cement cladding is a long-lasting and durable choice of cladding material. Usually available in a wide range of colours and finishes, this man-made option is a great alternative to natural timber and hung slate tiles. 

Both budget and eco friendly, choosing fibre cement cladding for a self-build or extension project offers flexibility and efficiency to help achieve the perfect home aesthetic.

A Low-maintenance Choice Which Offers Durability

Fibre cement cladding was initially created as an realistic substitute for timber, offering a similar, characterful look but with fewer demands on upkeep. 

The aches and pains of re-fixing and repainting other cladding options is much reduced and fibre cement products are not only frequently fire, weather and pest resistant, but also resilient to age-related defects such as warping, scuffs and chips.

Versatile Cladding for Any Project

Whether it’s a contemporary extension to a period home or a traditional-inspired self-build, fibre cement cladding is available in both natural, rustic looks and smooth and sleek finishes. 

Fibre Cement Cladding is Quick to Install

Cladding should be the cherry on top of a project where the exterior elements come together, rather than a headache to fit and organise. 

While heavier than natural timber cladding, fibre cement is generally a light material, making it easy and speedy to install. 

The neat edges as a result of the manufacturing process also means panels are simple for contractors to fit together, and can in some instances be installed by an experienced DIYer.

 Expressing Personality onto a Bespoke Home

Fibre cement cladding is available in a whole host of different colours and finishes so homeowners can match their home to their personal tastes. 

As a result of it’s pliable nature during manufacturing, panels, planks and tiles can be formed to any size (although larger products could require more time to install) and are painted or stained in the factory for a long-lasting and vibrant colour. 

For more information on the HardiePlank® product family visit the James Hardie website and to make an enquiry, email info@jameshardie.co.uk.

Content supplied by James Hardie

How do you take a house from bland to beautiful? The best place to start is on the outside. First impressions count, and just because your property is a basic or aging brick that gives away the decade it was built in, it doesn’t have to stay that way.

Instead you can create a frontage that has the period presence of Tudor, the fresh coastal chic of New England, the grace of Georgian or the sharp lines and dramatic contrasts of modern contemporary.

The secret to transforming a home completely is simple, and it lies in cladding and render.

Cladding

Cladding involves laying another material on the façade to insulate, protect and improve the look of the house beneath. The most familiar material for cladding is wood, used as far back as the 5th century in Britain. 

Today cladding still comes in timber, but also many other more modern materials, such as metal, brick, vinyl, composite or recycled materials or even fibres of wheat/straw. An excellent substitute for wood is fibre cement weatherboard. It gives the natural look of timber, but is durable, weatherproof and low maintenance.

Render

Render is a plastered finish sprayed onto walls made of brick or block so it appears smooth and clean. It has its roots back in a time when clay was used to fill in cracks and crevices in a lattice of woven wood – a technique known as wattle and daub.

Lime was used later, but it wasn’t until Portland cement was developed in the 19th century that this coating became truly weatherproof and able to withstand our rainy weather.

The Art of Transformation

Adding another material or skin to the exterior of your home can make it seem like it comes from another era or belongs on another continent.

Mock Tudor

Beams were originally used as support in Tudor buildings, but left exposed so people could appreciate the patten they made. In a mock Tudor design, boards that look like beams can be attached to the walls in simple designs, most often on the first floor or at the apex. The brick beneath can be left exposed or covered with a pale render that lets the ‘timber’ stand out.

New England

Timber cladding has become synonymous with traditional New England homes. Overlapping planks, known as clapboard, cover part or even the whole of the building in a style familiar on the east coast, for an effect that seems as American as white picket fences.

Colonial Style

This developed from the architectural styles that Europeans took with them when they settled abroad. It is similar, though perhaps a little grander, than the design of New England homes. Again wooden planks, or siding, can cover the whole of the building for an effect that was cooler in the hotter, more tropical climates that these emigrees found themselves living in.

Modern Contemporary

In modern contemporary exterior design, different claddings and renders can be used together on the outside of buildings, creating a striking contrast in materials, laying patterns and colours. Natural wood or wood-look planks might be laid over one section and next to it large metal panels that give an industrial edge, or a pale render will frame a picture window. The mix of materials adds different dimensions to the house and emphasises individual parts, adding interest to otherwise flat walls.

Georgian Style Ashlar

Render can be used to create the elegance of Georgian buildings. Ashlar stonework was much favoured by architects of the period. Influenced by classical Greek design, they replicated it in square cut stone and deep cuts of parallel lines on the façades of the town houses of the wealthy. However, the stone was expensive, so builders would use plaster instead and draw lines into it before it set, making it look like the pricey stone. The same effect could be achieved today on render.

HardiePlank® Product Family

HardiePlank cladding by James Hardie is a versatile, low-maintenance weatherboard that looks like natural cedar or larch. It comes pre-made in an array of durable, fade-resistant finishes with a choice of 21 colours and two textures (smooth and natural cedar mill). The colour is actually baked on in the factory so it won’t be affected by the weather. The new HardiePlank VL fibre cement board is an easy to fit interlock weatherboard with a chic design and timeless flat finish. Beautiful and durable, it can be installed horizontally or vertically, perfect for a contemporary design.

The HardiePlank product family provides the ultimate design flexibility, opening a world of possibility to update traditional housing styles with modern, long-lasting materials.

The key to getting modern brick house ideas spot on is to get creative while still working within typical local parameters — taking traditional styles and adding interesting bonds or colour choices into the mix. 

With so many different types of brick available, selecting the right one for your self build or extension project can seem a pretty daunting task. While listed buildings or projects in designated areas might be more restricted when it comes to the options, those working on extension projects that fall within permitted development are often free to choose from a wide range of colours, shapes and patterns to really pack a visual punch or create drama — although it is perhaps wise to consult with your neighbours if you have your heart set on something really radical.

Even if you find that your local planning department want a say in your brick choices, working within guidelines and opening up a conversation can lead to beautiful results. 

What are modern brick house ideas?

Just how do modern bricks differ from traditional bricks? This tends to have more to do with the style and how they are formed rather than the material they are made from. 

Clay bricks, for example, can look very modern if you choose extruded or wire-cut as they have a nice, uniform smooth finish, while reclaimed and handmade clay bricks have a far more rustic, traditional look to them.  

Colour too will play a large part in the look of a brick and the choice of shades is huge. From white to cream, yellow and bright reds, you can also choose from browns, greys and blue tones.

Then there is the bond in which the bricks are laid, as well as their shape. Stack bond, made up of rows of stretchers with each stretcher centred on the stretcher below it, looks very neat and modern. For something more unusual 3D effects can be created by laying bricks at various protruding angles, and a basketweave pattern (a little like herringbone) can look very striking too. 

1. Take inspiration from your surroundings

Even though you might want to take a contemporary approach to your brickwork, it still pays to acknowledge your surroundings and the area in which you are building — very often this is where the most inspiration can be found. 

The design of this beautiful self build, by Ayre Chamberlain Gaunt, drew inspiration from the old brickworks and clay pits that are located nearby and features pale-coloured long-format bricks which form a reassuringly solid base for the slatted timber cladding of the first floor. 

2. Mix and match bonds

Very often, contemporary design is all about throwing out the rulebook and nowhere is this more true than when it comes to cladding a house and, in particular, the choice of brickwork.

Don't feel you have to work within the constraints of just one type of bond — instead, explore the idea of using several together over one elevation. 

This self build, designed by Edgley Design, features standard clay bricks that have been laid in a traditional stretcher bond as well as in a vertical stack bond beneath and above the window openings. 

3. Fully embrace the warm beauty of brick

The warmth and character that bricks can add to a building is undeniable and this can be invaluable when ensuring that contemporary style self builds and extensions, however modern in their form, look natural in their surroundings.

This low-lying courtyard house, designed by PAD Studio, was built to replace a dark Victorian cottage. 

The architects were keen to give a nod to the local red brick vernacular and so Danish bricks in a similar shade were chosen to "add a feeling of crafted texture and solidity." This brickwork has been left exposed internally, where it sits in contrast to oak panelling.

4. Create a 3D effect with staggered brickwork

Laying bricks in unusual patterns can lead to some really eye-catching effects — ideal for those building an extension who might be keen to create a sense of evolution when it comes to the design of their home.

For this two storey, staggered extension, textured brickwork was used. At ground floor the engineered black headers of the Flemish bond brickwork cast varying shadows throughout, while at first floor they are recessed to create a woven structure. It is a very simple and cost-effective way of achieving maximum impact. 

5. Use brickwork to tie in a cottage extension

If you like the idea of creating a modern cottage extension but are keen that it still ties in architecturally with your existing home, then your choice of brickwork can be the ideal starting point. 

The owners of this once run-down cottage decided to add an entire barn-style wing to the existing building, mirroring the outline and proportions of the cottage. It has been clad with brick and flint and finished off with a pigmented zinc roof. 

6. Take a sideways approach to your brickwork

A popular way to create a more contemporary feel with brickwork is to use a vertically stacked laying pattern as opposed to the more commonly seen horizontal bonds — or, even better, to combine the two.

This interesting staggered extension, designed by Mulroy Architects, has been set over a number of levels, with a sunken living area. The brickwork used to clad the new addition was laid in a vertically stacked bond, with a horizontal pattern used for the upright elements of the walls. 

7. Use traditional materials in a modern way

Cottage extensions are notoriously difficult to get right and this can be made even tricker in the case of those that are listed. 

The owners of this newly extended cottage, built in the 17th century, faced a whole host of challenges, including the fact that it was Grade II listed and classed as a building at risk. 

They decided to take on the hugely ambitious project, with the help of Mole Architects, to build a new extension that linked with the old property, the idea being that they would renovate the original cottage to retain its 17th-century identity while also making it completely usable as traditional room spaces for work, leisure and guests and also to increase the size of the cottage in a contemporary way.

“It was clear the materials needed to reflect those of the original house, so the oak frame of the original cottage has been matched by the oak cladding on the new extension,” says architect Ian Bramwell. “Even though the form is different, there’s still a resonance there with the materials.”

A variety of cladding materials have been used, including modern blue grey bricks for the elevation featuring the striking chimney stack. 

8. Consider brickwork as a way of visually expanding a house

Sometimes brickwork can be used to make a small house feel bigger than it really is, drawing the eye towards interesting features and focal points and away from the proportions of the building. 

This house was built to fit on to a tiny plot of just 130m2 located in a conservation area in London. Having looked at many different build systems, the owners settled on traditional brick due to the complex shapes required. Within the courtyard, shown here, bricks have been laid in both vertical and horizontal bonds for a 3D effect.

9. Choose a 'monk' brick bond for a striking effect

The bond in which bricks are laid has as much of an effect on the end appearance of a house as the bricks themselves.

A monk bond can work really well when it comes to contemporary house design. As a variant of the Flemish bond, a monk bond has two stretchers followed by a header repeated with overlapping midway courses above and below. The headers are centred over the join between the two stretchers in the course below.

The local handmade bricks on this Nash Baker Architects-designed self build were laid in a monk brick bond for a contemporary take on a traditional aesthetic. White iron-free sand lime mortar was also used to create a more distinctive look. 

10. Use brick slips for a modern extension 

Using brick slips is a great way to finish off a timber frame extension or self build. 

"A brick slip is a thin slice of brick; it can be either made this way or cut from the face of a full-sized brick," explains Joe Burton, brand director of Brick Tile Company. "Essentially as the 'face' of the brick is cut off to create a tile, you only use the bit you see, brick slips are there to provide the look without the structural aspect of full bricks."

This stunning timber frame extension (by Nimtim Architects) was clad in a narrow red brick using a stack bond with a light, recessed mortar to highlight the geometry of the design.

The brick cladding was also used internally in the kitchen and living spaces for an extra addition of contemporary warmth.

11. Choose a shade of brick to create an impact

Choosing a bolder shade of brick, such as a blue or dark grey, is a great way to add wow and architectural interest to a modern house.

The local planners made it clear that the owners of this self build should build using brick. 

“We then did a lot of research into the bricks we wanted and looked at black, purple and grey reclaimed bricks as we wanted to create something different – not a London stock brick – and chose reclaimed bricks which were uneven in size and colour, and used black mortar instead of cream," they say. "It was also important to us to use real bricks and not brick slips, which I think just looks like decorative cladding.” 

12. Create a clear definition between old and new

While choosing matching materials for an extension can sometimes be the only option in the eyes of the planners, if not then using a totally different shade of brick to that used on the original house can be a fantastic way to visually chart the evolution of the building.

For this striking side extension, despite being able to source matching bricks to the original house, Stuart Archer (of Archer and Braun Architects) chose a contemporary contrast for his side-return extension. Inexpensive Ibstock Atlas bricks were used for their consistent, smooth appearance.  

13. Play around with pattern

It can be really nice to use brick in the design of a new house to mirror some details of the brick detailing of the surrounding properties.

This new home, with its dramatic homogenous red-brick facade, was designed by 31/44 Architectsand reflects the period details and motifs seen on the adjacent houses, but in a more distinctive, modern way. The vivid shade of the bricks give the property its name — Red House. 

14. Conjure up interesting shadows with brickwork

With careful planning, research and design, brickwork can be used to create all kinds of interesting effects — perfect when building a modern home or extension. 

Within the design of this new house, by Vint & Smith Architecture + Design, both pale timber cladding and a combination of white and grey bricks have been used. The way in which the materials have been used is a great example of how bricks can really elevate a façade, creating shadows and texture. 

The weathered grey and white bricks are from BEA Clay Solutions.

15. Stretch the imagination with long bricks

Longer-than-standard bricks are the perfect choice for those looking to create a sleek, eye-catching home or extension.

This stunning two storey extension, designed by Bradley VanDerStraeten, has been constructed using beautiful long grey bricks. Despite the complete contrast between the modern, pale bricks of the new addition and the more traditional red brick used on the existing house, the two sit happily side-by-side thanks to the double-height glass link that joins them together.

Content supplied by James Hardie

Not only will the type of house cladding you choose determine its appearance, it will also have a big effect on the maintenance required in your home's upkeep. Here, we give you five of the best cladding options, looking at aesthetics, durability and cost.   

1. Natural Timber Cladding

There are many different types of timber house cladding, including softwoods, hardwoods and engineered. 

Softwood cladding, such as that made from pine, lies at the lower end of the price scale. However, bear in mind that it will require priming, painting and a fair amount of regular maintenance to keep it looking its best, meaning its initial low price can be deceptive.

Hardwoods, such as oak and cedar, can be left unstained to weather naturally and are a durable option, although they will cost you more than softwood. 

2. Fibre Cement Cladding

Fibre cement cladding offers a durable beauty, that is low maintenance and flexible in the way it can be used. 

It comes in a huge variety of pre-painted colours, two textures and can be installed horizontally, vertically or even diagonally. It can also be supplied as a traditional shiplap design, open joint or hit and miss effects, meaning it suits a range of house styles, from New England style homes and classic designs to contemporary houses. 

As well as being diverse in its uses, fibre cement cladding is also non-combustible, comes pre-primed and factory painted and can withstand everything the British weather may throw at it, as well as resisting fire, pests and rot to boot. 

3. Shou Sugi Ban Cladding

Offering a striking and characterful cladding option, shou sugi ban is timber that has had a blowtorch run across its surface to give a charred, blackened look. This is an ancient Japanese method of treating timber and is certainly a choice worth considering for those after an individual, visually striking option for their home. 

4. Tile Hung Cladding

Those after a traditional finish might want to consider tile hanging as a cladding option. In some areas, tile hanging is a large part of the local vernacular too.

This is a relatively expensive option, particularly if you opt for handmade clay tiles, but certainly adds a wealth of character in the right setting and on the right house. 

It is often used only for the upper storey of a house, with brick below. 

5. Render

Render is a popular option for self-builders and renovators alike. 

Standard cement-based render does require some maintenance in the form of regular painting and patching up.

However, for an extra cost many people opt for through-coloured render that requires no subsequent painting. 

Combining Cladding Materials

Don't feel as though you have to use just one type of house cladding — combining two or more materials adds interest and breaks up the design of a house. Here, low-maintenance fibre cement cladding has been combined with brick, perfectly complementing the traditional design of the house. 

Request a sample of HardiePlank by James Hardie to see how your self build or renovation project could benefit.

Cladding doesn’t have to mean a choice between brick, stone, timber or render. Whilst these materials remain popular options, there are now some cladding alternatives on the market which are well worth considering.

Using Corian for Exterior Cladding

Corian is a composite material (a blend of natural minerals and acrylic polymer) that is often used for worktops, but can also be used as an exterior cladding method.

It comes supplied as large panels that can be built up to achieve any shape or form required. The panels are fixed to provide a ventilated facade that allows for thicker levels of insulation and can also be used on renovations to improve upon existing insulation levels.

The material is:

• durable
• long lasting
• resistant to humidity
• resistant to fungi and bacteria
• UV stable

Corian panels use a mechanical fixing system based on an aluminium grid system, mounted on aluminium squares connected to the substrate. They can be installed by cladding contractors or professional cladding installers.

High Pressure Laminate

High Pressure Laminate (HPL) is a material which consists of 70% wood fibre and 30% resins.

According to Trespa, HPL has two key benefits over timber cladding:

• it requires no routine maintenance
• it won’t fade. (The Meteor panels have a global guarantee for 10 years, but in the UK climate, can last more than 20 years with no change in colour)

Although wood effect panels are popular, HPL isn’t restricted to wood lookalikes — there is a large choice of other colours and finishes, including a metallics range.

For those after cladding boards as opposed to panels, Trespa’s Pura planking system is well worth a look. This comes as preformed planks, available in flush and overlapping finishes and can be installed either vertically or horizontally.

A typical installed price for the complete Pura system would be approximately £130/m², including materials and labour.

Porcelain Tiles as Cladding

Tiles have long been used as an exterior cladding material in many parts of the world, although this is a relatively new system in the UK.

In addition to internal tiles, Porcelanosa now produce facade cladding systems, in conjunction with their high-tech division, Butech.

The substrate is prepared before being clad with porcelain tiles, using mechanical fastenings as an extra form of reinforcement along with suitable adhesives, before being grouted, with a minimum 5mm joint.

Customers can choose between a bonded facade or a ventilated facade, with the ventilated facade being the more expensive of the two.

Timber Cladding Finishes

With the continued popularity of timber as a cladding material, products which enhance its natural beauty and protect it from the elements are constantly being developed.

Sioo has come up with siOO:X, an environmentally-friendly, water-based wood protection system.

The treatment promises to give protection against:

• uneven, patchy weathering and discolouration
• algae, fungus, spore and surface rot
• splintering and curling of the timber’s surface

A wood protector is first applied to penetrate the fibres of the cell walls of the wood, where it forms a network of silica crystals to create a barrier which is bonded to the surface. The surface protector is then applied, binding with the wood protector to prevent water penetration.

As the mineral silicate cures over time it starts to turn the timber an even silver/grey tone within around 10-16 weeks. SiOO:X Mid Grey and Light Grey versions have been developed to give an immediate and long-lasting colour specifically for use with sawn surfaces and are only available as factory-applied coatings.

Both parts of the treatment are available from Russwood. 250ml sample pots cost from £6.00.

What is Shou Sugi Ban Timber?

Shou Sugi Ban is a charred timber cladding. It is produced through the ancient Japanese technique of charring timber and no two boards will be the same, producing a highly individual appearance.

It is currently enjoying huge popularity amongst self-builders and renovators alike, offering a rich and dramatic appearance, full of character. 

Benefits of Shou Sugi Ban include:

• natural protection from UV rays
• extremely tough and durable end result
• resistant to fire and pests

Yukari is a new type of Shou Sugi Ban — being 100% FSC and with new textures to those previously seen. With a smooth, sanded surface, Yukari has a unique contemporary appearance that can really enhance both period properties as well as being suitable for contemporary new builds.

Available through James Latham and manufactured exclusively by Shou Sugi Ban.

The Yukari range costs from approx. £125/².

Is Glass a Suitable Cladding Alternative?

Glass reinforced concrete (GRC) is a high-strength material which can be made into thin cladding panels. As the name suggests, it is made from concrete, reinforced with glass fibre — creating a rust-resistant, lightweight material.

Low-Maintenance Fibre Cement

Fibre cement cladding is not only low maintenance, but it can also look great. It withstands corrosion and so is great in coastal areas. A product such as Cedral’s fibre cement profile sheet has a life expectancy of around 50 years too.

Developments in Timber Cladding

Timber cladding is now available in many more profiles that the traditional ship-lap and featheredge. A popular way to use it now is in narrow profiles, with some being pre-mounted on larger panels for ease of installation.

Additionally, owners of contemporary homes are now often opting for vertical as opposed to horizontal cladding, or a combination of the two.

Brick Cladding Options

Brick has always been a popular cladding choice for its ready availability and low maintenance. But contemporary brick-clad builds are moving away from reds, browns and yellows, towards a more monochrome palette.

Bricks which are considerably longer and narrower than the standard format have seen a resurgence in contemporary design, with brick manufacturers introducing products to suit.

Corten, or weathered steel cladding, is corrosion resistant while maintaining tensile strength. By adding alloying elements (copper, chromium and nickel), the rust film congeals on the surface and virtually stops all further rusting.

How does Corten weather?

While other metals used in construction are designed to resist corrosion, Corten invites rust to form on its surface. The rust itself forms a film which covers the surface and forms a protective layer. You don’t need to treat it and you certainly do not paint it: it’s all about making rusty steel look attractive.

When it’s supplied to site, it looks just like you’d expect sheet steel to look, all black and shiny. Put it up against the elements and the rust gradually takes hold. It first turns a streaky yellow, which tones down to orange and after a decade or two this all goes a gorgeous dark-brown purple colour.

How long will Corten last?

Rusting Corten should in theory last a couple of centuries, provided the climate is not too hostile — it doesn’t like sea salt, as this tends to eat through the congealed rust layer.

What are the drawbacks to using Corten?

While it is largely rust-proof, there are inevitably small amounts of rust which tend to pool underneath the installation. It is worth therefore paying attention to locating it above surfaces that don’t stain or will be disfigured in any way.

Is it practical to use as a wall cladding?

Yes – it’s no longer the preserve of the cutting edge and it is beginning to move mainstream. In fact, it can be fixed in a number of ways, depending on its use.

How can I be sure I am getting the real thing?

The name Corten (also written Cor-ten) is trademarked to US Steel, the inventors of the alloy. US Steel sold the Corten business to the Indian multinational ArcelorMittal in 2003 and no longer produces any Corten, but the company maintains the rights to the name.

There are many producers around that produce weathering steel that is often referred to as Corten. Specifiers wanting the real thing have to pay a little more and for this they get a stamped receipt.

How much does Corten cost?

Corten is around three times as expensive as ordinary mild steel plate. Yet looks identical when new, so it’s perhaps not a bad idea to get some verification as to what you are paying for, as the finished look won’t reveal itself for a decade or two.

As a base metal, Corten sheet is similar in price to metals like zinc or copper. It will never compete with the usual claddings like brick, timber and render, but is perhaps comparable with stone or glass.

CONTENT SUPPLIED BY VASTERN TIMBER

Timber cladding is not only a natural way to improve your home’s exterior, but also offers insulation and protection against harsh weather.

When it comes to choosing the right timber for your cladding, there is much to consider. While imported options such as Siberian larch or Canadian western red cedar are popular, it’s wrong to assume that the timber has to be imported to be of the right quality or price. 

Traditional choices include British grown larch for a rustic look, and English oak for a classic, premium finish.  Modern thermal treatment transforms homegrown hardwoods like sycamore, poplar and ash, into ‘Brimstone‘ cladding, which offers a durable, contemporary and cost-effective cladding option. 

Benefits of Choosing Locally-Sourced Timber

Choosing local timber reduces environmental costs of long transportation. This is especially pertinent if you are looking to put sustainability and ecology at the heart of your build.

Buying British wood cladding also benefits local woodlands. Buying British encourages the planting of more woodland areas and managed woodland provides cleaner air, reduces flooding and enhances wildlife habitats. Only 13% of Britain’s land area is wooded (compared to 37% in Europe), and only 55% of woods are properly managed. Buying British will help increase the number of managed woodlands, offering both environmental and economical benefits. 

Tom Barnes, Managing Director of Vastern Timber said: “I passionately believe that choosing locally grown timber helps support our woodlands, financing their development and management. When a homebuilder chooses timber they are choosing a natural building material that is durable, beautiful and renewable.”

Vastern’s timber cladding options cover all styles and budgets. Prices range from £15/m² to £60/m² depending on your specification. For more information, check out the website.

While it’s easy to focus on the interior of your home when renovating or extending, an exterior makeover could in fact be the finishing touch that your home’s facade is crying out for.

And, with one of the benefits of an exterior makeover being that it’s not just limited to one style of home, whether you’re renovating a tired post-war, red-brick property with uPVC fascias and single-glazed windows, or a period building that’s been unsympathetically extended, there are a variety of techniques you can employ.

Only have a limited budget to spare? This doesn’t exclude you. There are also several low-cost exterior makeover design tricks you can use to ensure your home’s external makeover is still impactful, but kinder to your bank balance.

Start with an external audit of your home

Before diving into the more extensive exterior makeovers such as changing your external cladding, or upgrading your windows, it’s important to start with a full audit of the exterior of your home and your surrounding.

“Start by looking at your home holistically,” says managing director and principal designer at Back to Front Exterior Design, Alexandra Hull. “Before thinking about aesthetic upgrades, take a walk around the property and note any maintenance issues such as roofing, drainage, cracks, insulation gaps or weatherproofing, so they can be addressed as part of an overall scheme.

“Then, rather than asking yourself what you dislike, consider what would help the house function better and feel more balanced overall,” she suggests. "Seeking experienced professional advice is also the key to saving you a lot of time and money on unnecessary or ill-thought-out interventions that might not be suitable for your building," she adds.

Once you bring in an expert, you can then expect them to take not only the exterior of your house into account, but also the surrounding area.

“When approaching the exterior of a building with the intention of reimagining it, I begin by understanding its fundamentals, the bones of the structure, its proportions, massing, and overall rhythm,” says Lindsay Mattinson, principal architect and director at Mattinson Associates.

“From there, I study neighbouring buildings, where relevant, to derive appropriate geometries and scales, and undertake a detailed site analysis to determine where extensions should be located,” she explains.

“Guided by this analysis and the client’s intended direction, whether traditional or contemporary, I then block out the primary massing and establish the overall architectural language. By this stage, I will also have considered the wider context, which helps inform an early understanding of suitable materials and reinforces the design direction.”

If you’re planning on a large external makeover idea, it’s also important not to get bogged down with small details before you look at the bigger picture, recommends Lindsay.

“A common mistake is to focus too early on solving isolated issues, which often results in a piecemeal outcome. Starting with the bigger picture allows you to set a clear masterplan from the outset. Once this is in place, the design can be broken down into manageable parts and executed with confidence, avoiding unnecessary rework, compromised decisions, and significant wasted cost later on.”

Include energy efficiency measures where you can

Modernising or updating the exterior of your home isn’t just about the aesthetics though. Undertaking bigger projects such as adding new external cladding is also the perfect opportunity for upgrading the energy efficiency of your home - particularly if you are including heating upgrades such as switching to an air source heat pump.

“If scaffolding is going up, adding external insulation, upgrading glazing, improving roof insulation or installing solar panels becomes far more practical and cost-effective,” says Alexandra Hull. “These changes don’t just lower running costs – they make a home warmer, quieter and more comfortable to live in. Energy efficiency is increasingly expected in modern housing, so including it during exterior works is a sensible way to future-proof the property.

“Improving thermal performance will always deliver greater long-term value than cosmetic upgrades alone,” adds Lindsay Mattinson. “But, I personally recommend avoiding the use of spray foam insulation in any part of the property,” she says, “as it prevents the building from breathing and can lead to a range of costly issues over time.

“Equally important is attention to the building’s envelope,” she adds. “Any new external finish must be compatible with the existing wall construction. It should allow the building to breathe, be properly ventilated, and, where neighbouring buildings are concerned, comply with fire safety regulations. Getting these fundamentals right is critical to the long-term performance and safety of your home.”

As adding external insulation can change where and when the dew point (where moisture condenses) occur, every cladding system will be different and so you’ll need to engage with your supplier who’ll advise on the appropriate steps to take.

Exterior makeover options

While big changes will naturally have the most impact on your exterior makeover, if you only have a small budget allocated for this element of your home renovation costs, there are still some lower-price tickets available to you.

“Remodelling the exterior of your home is a spectrum, and small changes often deliver big impact,” says Alexandra Hull. “Something as simple as painting the front door, improving external lighting or tidying the garden can dramatically change how a home feels from the street."

“For mid-range upgrades, repainted facades, a new garage door or driveway improvements can go a long way, whilst larger projects such as changing the geometry of the building, building an extension, along with new cladding, windows or a roof upgrade can have a dramatic effect on the kerb appeal and functionality.”

Low cost: For a simple cost-effective fix, upgrade your front door

Even if you’ve spent a sizeable sum renovating your home inside, if the first impression of your home is a tired front door, it can form someone’s opinion on the rest of your home before they’ve even stepped foot inside.

Restoring your front door and painting it in a fresh new shade is one of the simplest exterior makeovers you can do, and one that doesn’t need professional help either.

“Your front door is part of the home’s kerb appeal and it’s amazing how a simple lick of paint can transform the look and feel of your home’s entrance,” confirms Victoria Yardley, founder of Victory Colours. “Front doors are all about making a statement, and if yours has seen better days, now is the time to revamp.”

According to Victoria, the best front door colours are the ones that work with your home’s character while offering a welcoming feel. “Classic navy is always a winner – it’s elegant, works with any style, and never looks dated,” she suggests. “Deep green shades such as heritage or olive green, are also a fantastic nod to nature and feel wonderfully grounding.

“If you want something soft yet stylish, muted sage green or warm clay tones create an inviting entrance without being overpowering. And of course, for that timeless touch, you can’t go wrong with a rich, black – it’s the little black dress of front doors!”

Or, perhaps your door has seen better days and not even a lick of paint will fix it, in which case you may be seeking new front door ideas, or considering replacing a uPVC door with a composite door – particularly if as previously mentioned, your door is letting heat escape. Even if you don’t replace it, make sure you check it doesn’t need any seals replacing or additional draught proofing measures added.

Low to mid cost: Replacing or changing rainwater goods

Another element you may look to update during an external makeover is old rainwater goods. The material you opt for will not only have an impact on aesthetics, but lifespan too, as Martin Bell, managing director of Transform Architects explains.

“Cast iron has an average lifespan of 50 years, PVCu 30 years, aluminium 40 years, zinc 50 years, and timber, depending on the species, will last on average for 40 years providing the timber has been maintained correctly.

“PVCu is of course the most cost-effective option, although it has a limited colour palette, while the more expensive options are aluminium, steel or zinc, but will give a much nicer finish to the house. Modern makeovers, as well as heritage dwellings, tend to go for these choices, unless replacing like for like, or if budget is an issue.”

For a low-cost upgrade you could also consider replacing your downpipes with rain chains, that offer a more decorative option for a practical task.

Mid range: Maybe your exterior could benefit from a new porch?

Have slightly more budget and think that it’s more about the placement of your door rather than how it looks? You’ll often find that older houses will have been subject to a number of extensions over the years and this can shift the balance of the property – the front door might no longer be centred, windows placement might be unsymmetrical and even the roofline might be jagged.

Adding a bolt-on addition, like a new porch, to emphasise the entrance is also a popular way of pin-pointing the front door. Always double check with your local authority first whether your proposed works can be done under permitted development or whether you need porch planning permission.

Mid range: Window upgrades can bring external and internal benefits

If you’re intending to give your exterior a facelift, the chances are you’ll be looking to replace or revamp your windows too – either on a like-for-like basis if you’re after a period-style look, or perhaps you’re trading in single-glazed or uPVC windows for contemporary powder-coated aluminium frames with acoustic or triple glazing.

Choosing the right style of windows for your exterior makeover project involves looking at all the different types of windows, frame colours and of course how much window costs will set you back.

But, in all instances, again check if you will need planning permission to do so. And, when replacing windows, make sure that your supplier is registered with Fensa, the window authority body. Not having the correct certification in place if you ever sell your home will be an issue and one you want to avoid.

Mid to high budget: If your roof is in need of repair, would it benefit from a complete overhaul?

If the problem with your current exterior lies with the roof, then whether you upgrade it or not may come down to need rather than want. If your roof is in a poor state of repair and at the end of its life, replacing the roof structure and/or adding a new roof covering will, of course, look more attractive but may well be a decision that’s out of your hands. If it’s leaking or unsafe, it will have to be an exterior makeover project you deliver on.

The downside to this will usually come down to new roof costs, which in some cases could make the difference between including a new high-end kitchen in your renovation plans, or even adding a small extension.

High cost: Change or replace your external cladding

One of the most transformative changes you can make to the exterior of your home is to add, replace or upgrade your external cladding. And, it can have additional benefits if your home renovation includes adding more space.

“If, as part of your remodel, you’re planning to add an extension, cladding the new and existing building in the same materials will make the whole property look singular and read as one,” notes Darren Bray, founder and director at Studio BAD.

But, as any exterior job is one that impacts the exterior of your home, your neighbours and the surrounding area, as well as taking up time and money, it’s important to make a number of checks before defining your final design brief.

Ask these questions before finalising your material choices

Will the materials suit the local vernacular?

“When selecting a palette of exterior materials, the key to success is understanding the building’s context,” explains Lindsay Mattinson. “ Look beyond the immediate neighbours and draw inspiration from the wider surroundings, then reinterpret those cues in a way that supports your building and the changes you’re making to it. Avoid simply copying what’s next door but also resist introducing materials that feel out of place or disconnected from their setting,” she advises.

Are they suitable for the local climate?

“When reinterpreting materials, we also consider finishes found in the surrounding landscape, not just those used on nearby buildings and structures. It’s then important to ensure the selected palette works harmoniously as a whole, with thoughtful detailing bringing the materials together and giving the design its coherence,” continues Lindsay.

And, if your location is rural or near the coast, don’t forget to take weather into account when choosing your finishes. Generous exterior makeovers will come at a cost, and you don’t want to be repeating that in a few years time because you made uninformed choices now.

“Studying existing materials and how they weather in their natural context will also offer valuable insight into their long-term performance,” she confirms. “Seeing how materials have aged in situ helps inform choices that will endure; finishes that will still look good in 25 years’ time and won’t demand constant maintenance.

Will the exterior makeover materials work together?

When it comes to combining materials, there are those that naturally sit well together and there are combinations which are best avoided, both for aesthetic and practical reasons – placing cedar above zinc for instance, as tannins in the timber can rot the zinc.

Similarly, clashing colours such as a red brick with the blues of zinc or slate can look jarring.

“Ideally, to keep it simple you should keep your palette to three materials: your primary material perhaps taking up 70% of the façade, your secondary material taking up the remainder of the cladding ratio, and then your third material might be for the details,” advises Andy Ramus founder and director of AR Design Studio.

And finally, make sure you are clear on if there are any distinctions between how you will approach the both the front and the rear of your property. Creating kerb appeal and ensuring the house fits within the streetscape will be priorities for the front elevation, while the rear will be all about the connection between the interior spaces and the garden.

Pros and cons of an external makeover

While working outside your home, rather than renovating the inside may seem like a less disruptive makeover, upgrading, changing or improving the exterior of your home isn’t without its pros and cons.

On the plus side, “an exterior makeover can strengthen kerb appeal, improve protection from the weather, reduce maintenance and give a renewed sense of pride in your home,” explains Alexandra Hull.

“It’s easy to forget, when a neighbour undertakes work on their home, that the benefits also often extend beyond the individual property,” adds Lindsay Mattinson. “Improving one house can enhance the character and feel of an entire neighbourhood, adding value not just for the owner but for those around them as well.”

“The downsides on the other hand are largely practical: cost, disruption and the pressure of making big decisions,” notes Alexandra Hull. “However, with realistic expectations and good planning, the long-term benefits tend to outweigh the short-term inconvenience. Viewing the project as a long-term investment rather than a quick cosmetic fix helps keep the experience grounded and manageable.”

For these reasons, we also strongly recommend engaging an architect where budgets allow, notes Lindsay. “An architect brings invaluable expertise to the process, helping to guide decisions, manage complexity, and ultimately deliver a home that justifies the time, effort, and investment involved.

“Equally important is the choice of builder,” she advises. “Working with a trusted and experienced contractor even if their quote is higher, can significantly reduce risk and anxiety. A well-executed build, with proper attention to detail, far outweighs the ongoing cost and frustration of repeatedly fixing work that should have been done correctly in the first place.

“With construction costs in the UK at an all-time high, our advice is simple: if you choose to build, do it properly, and do it with skilled professionals who know what they are doing,” says Lindsay. “In the long run, the results will speak for themselves and the investment will be worth it.”

FAQs

How much will an exterior makeover cost?

“Budgets for external makeovers vary widely depending on the scope of work,” says Lindsay Mattinson. “Replacing doors and windows, enlarging openings, upgrading external materials, and improving insulation is a very different undertaking from simply applying a fresh coat of paint and adding shutters.

“We recommend consulting a professional early in the process. This ensures your brief is fully understood and allows budgets to be defined more accurately, helping you plan with confidence,” she suggests.

How much value will an exterior makeover add to your home?

With budgets for exterior makeovers being so wide, while adding a coat of paint won't necessarily make you feel that you need a payback in the future, some of the larger ticket items could. So how much value will an exterior makeover add? And, is it always monetary or could there be other value too?

“A well-planned exterior makeover almost always improves how a property is perceived. Buyers respond positively to homes that look cared for and visible upgrades suggest good maintenance behind the scenes,” says Alexandra Hull.

“Addressing neglect, updating dated features and improving performance can significantly strengthen saleability. Even modest improvements can shift first impressions, and in property terms that early emotional response often translates into real financial value,” she adds.

“The right approach to adding value to your home with an external makeover depends heavily on your budget, the team you engage, the extent of the work, and the overall outcome you are aiming for,” expands Lindsay Mattinson.

“In some cases, it may be more effective to improve the appearance of your home by leaving the external fabric largely untouched and focusing instead on the surrounding landscape.

Thoughtful landscaping can dramatically change how a building is perceived. A well-designed garden can create visual breaks, frame views, and subtly segment the building so the eye reads it in a more considered and appealing way.

“When re-inventing a home, we believe it’s essential to look beyond the building fabric alone,” she advises. “The relationship between the interiors and the surrounding landscape should form part of the same design conversation, working together to shape how the home is experienced as a whole.”

In summary, our experts share their final advice if you’re planning an exterior makeover.

“Look to tailor aesthetic improvements specifically to the property, making it the best version of itself, rather than trying to mould it into something it doesn’t naturally lend itself to,” says Alexandra Hull. “Choose quality materials and avoid overly trend led styles, so the result is a timeless home that will stand the test of time.”

“Always check whether your property or location requires planning permission, listed building consent, or building regulations approval,” continues Lindsay Mattinson. “Understanding these requirements upfront can save time, cost, and frustration later.

“Next, engage a skilled professional, she reiterates. “The value they bring to a project is tangible and often measurable. For complex projects, involve them throughout the entire process. If your budget is more limited, consider commissioning an overall masterplan from someone experienced, then manage the execution yourself with that clear framework in place.”

Recently, painted tongue-and-groove cladding has seen something of a resurgence, adding a touch of country-chic for those looking for a quick, cost-effective decorating solution.

This cladding comeback isn’t just focused on traditional and classic design though — contemporary homeowners have got in on the act too, realising internal timber cladding provides the ideal solution for adding character and warmth to a modern home.

Why Should I Use Internal Timber Cladding?

Timber panelling is simple to install and to retrofit, is cost-effective and can be fitted on a DIY basis too. It is also easily adaptable — painted, stained, white-washed or left in its natural state.

“Contemporary interior timber cladding can be used in many different ways on any walls internally,” says Andy Stevens, MD of Eclipse Property Solutions. “Cladding can be used to create a feature wall, bring an old wall to life or if you’re really bold you can do a whole room. The great thing with timber is every piece is different so you will never get two pieces the same.”

Which Timber Should I Choose?

There is not just one type of wood panelling: it actually comes in many different forms and can be bought off-the-shelf or custom made.

Unlike exterior timber cladding, there are no rules when it comes to the timbers you can use — your choice will more likely be dictated by your budget and the look you are aiming for.

The trend for classic and more traditional properties is to paint cladding, meaning softwoods and MDF products are wholly suitable. However, contemporary timber cladding tends to embrace the timber in its natural state and so the choice of timber is of the upmost importance.

“All types of wood can be used, from softwood to hardwood, from old pallets to fine American white oak,” says Andy Stevens.

According to the experts at timber cladding specialists NORclad, it is not so much the species of timber that you opt for, but its moisture content.

“Within reason you can choose any wood you like the look of,” say NORclad. “Internal moisture in the air can cause the timber to swell and crack so you want a stable timber — green oak, for example, would not be advised.

“We’d recommend using a species of timber that is easy to work with. You don’t need to worry as much about the durability of the timber as it won’t be put under the same environmental pressures as timber cladding used outside.”

Softwoods, such as pine, are a cost-effective option and quite suitable for internal cladding. “Pine is a popular choice — as long as it is dry with a moisture content of around 10-12%,” say NORclad. “It should also be finished with a suitable coating capable of absorbing and releasing a small amount of moisture.”

Softwoods also tend to be lightweight and easy to work with, absorbing any finishes and preservatives more readily that hardwoods — plus they are more sustainable than hardwoods.

Engineered floorboards, as well as solid, are options. Engineered boards do tend to have greater stability than solid wood but can also cost more.

In terms of auesthetics, walnut, maple and cherry are all popular contemporary options, as are oak and teak.

OSB (oriented strand board), and plywood, are now also being used as cladding solutions.

It is important to ensure they are well-sanded. Also, a finish will be required to avoid ‘flaking’. While some choose to paint OSB for some very striking results, others opt for a clear polyurethane finish.

How to Choose the Right Internal Timber Cladding

Most internal cladding comes in the form of tongue-and-groove boards that can be nailed and glued together or as straight edge boards. This is much the same as wooden flooring — in fact the majority of wooden flooring suppliers state that their boards can also be used on walls.

In the case of tongue-and-groove boards, the outer edges are often chamfered, forming a V-shaped groove where the boards meet.

In contemporary homes, a sleeker look is often preferable, so ensure the baords you choose are straight-edged if this is the look you are after. If using tongue-and-groove boards choose those with a ‘shadowgap’ or ‘channel’ profile’. These boards have a flat face and a clean, square-edged cut out and are usually suitable for secret nailing.

Split face timber cladding and randomly formed designs add a 3D element. Supplied in packs of varying sizes, textures and even timber types, these can be more time-consuming to fit than regular cladding, but are still often supplied with tongue-and-groove edges.

Other options include larger panels of wooden cladding. In this case, the cladding is supplied in sheets that are designed to fit up to one another for a seamless finish.

Whilst it is possible to order your timber cladding in the exact sizes you require, this will be a more expensive option than buying pre-cut packs and trimming them to fit. Standard lengths are usually 1800mm, 2400mm and 3000mm.

Perhaps the most commonly seen type of wood panelling, tongue-and-groove, is usually sold in packs and is designed to be fitted on a DIY basis, costing from £6/m². It is usually made of softwood planks.

There are also lots of tongue-and-groove look-a-like products on the market made from either timber or MDF. These have the appearance of panels that have been clicked together but actually come as continuous sheets, making them quicker and less fiddly to fit. They come ready to be primed and painted.

Choosing Period-Style Wood Panels

There are various styles of wood panelling out there, from those labelled ‘Georgian’ and ‘Victorian’ to sleeker, more modern designs. Most can be found in either MDF, MDF with a real wood veneer, or as solid timber. Aim to be true to your property when choosing the timber.

• MDF panelling is designed to be painted
• Hardwood panelling such as oak can be varnished or left as it is for a more natural look
• If you are considering softwood, it will need to be treated with a primer and painted if you don’t want issues with movement — particularly in bathrooms and kitchens

There is also the option for ‘open-backed’ panelling. This produces a square or rectangular panel design using sheets of MDF with the squares cut out — these panels are then glued directly to any flat surface and painted. This creates a traditionally panelled look at a fraction of the cost of timber, and it can be done easily on a DIY basis.

How Much Does Timber Cladding Cost?

Softwood tongue-and-groove cladding, is usually sold in packs and is designed to be fitted on a DIY basis, costing from £7-8/m².

However, bear in mind that a softwood such as pine will require the application of a knotting solution and either primer and paint, or a sealant or stain, which ultimately adds to its cost.

Hardwoods such as oak and walnut cost more, but usually come finished and require little to no maintenance.

How to Fit Internal Timber Cladding

In renovation projects, your walls may require a little attention before cladding is fixed, although cladding is actually a good way to deal with uneven surfaces. So long as the surface is sound and not falling away, there should be no problem.

In some cases, cladding can be fixed directly to the wall. This is a good option if you are very conscious of working with a small space, or if you have timber stud walls, where cladding can be nailed directly to these — just be sure you mark where the studs are before you begin.

In most cases, cladding is fixed on to 50 x 25mm softwood battens that have been nailed or screwed to the existing solid wall.

In the case of cladding fixed to the inside of an external wall, using a vapour barrier, placed behind the battens can prevent condensation or rot affecting the new timber. This is also a good opportunity to add in extra insulation in the case of renovation projects.

Battens must run at right angles to the cladding and be spaced around 400-600mm apart, depending on the size of the wall. The first and last battens should be at either end of the wall and further battens will be required around doors and windows, as well as under any joints between the ends of boards. 

In a contemporary setting, skirting boards are often not required. If fitting your cladding vertically, simply finishing the bottom edge of the cladding off with a square edged strip of matching wood is a neat solution.

In order to reduce the risk of cladding splitting, warping or cracking, have it delivered or buy it at least two weeks before you plan on fitting it. Keeping the cladding in the room it will be used it will acclimatise it, reducing the amount of moisture in the wood. Store it laid flat.

CONTENT SUPPLIED BY CUPA PIZARRAS

Slate rainscreen cladding systems are a great option for both contemporary and modern homes — here we explain why.

1. It is a great sustainable option

Whether building from scratch or renovating your existing house, your choice of cladding will play a huge role in the eco credentials of your home. 

Choosing a natural product such as slate rainscreen cladding, ensures no chemical or heat treatments will have been used in its production, therefore it will have minimal environmental impact.

In addition, a product such as CUPACLAD natural slate rainscreen cladding from CUPA PIZARRAS – something of a game-changing product in the world of ventilated façades –  will work well with other external insulation systems, helping to keep your home cool in summer and warm in winter — ideal for those aiming to keep an eye on their overall energy consumption as well as their energy bills. 

2. Minimal maintenance will be required

Some forms of cladding require a lot of input from homeowners in terms of maintenance — for example repainting, staining or cleaning.

Choosing slate rainscreen cladding is a great way to avoid this — perfect for those after a hands-off approach when it comes to the upkeep of their homes. The colour of slate cladding will not fade over time either.

Incidentally, other great options for those looking to minimise the maintenance requirements of their homes include rainwater goods, windows and doors made from aluminum and through-coloured render. 

3. Slate cladding is perfect for contemporary and traditional homes alike

Whilst using slate within home design might be nothing new, the ways in which it can now be applied definitely are. When used as a rainscreen cladding slate can open up a whole range of design possibilities, from the unusual shapes it is available in, such as CUPACLAD’s striking hexagon Honeycomb range, to the way in which it can be adapted to suit almost any wall shape or configuration.  

It is also lightweight and quick to install, reducing build times and therefore installation costs. 

4. Slate pairs perfectly with other materials

Combining two or more cladding materials is a great idea, adding visual interest to both new and renovated homes and working to break up large buildings or aesthetically zone them.

Natural slate rainscreen cladding sits beautifully alongside render, timber cladding and even traditional materials such as brickwork.

It also partners well with large expanses of glazing, such as sliding doors, picture windows and glass balustrades around balconies, not to mention metals often used on or around roofs, such as zinc, lead and even copper. Its ability to both blend in as well as make a statement is hard to match. 

5. It is incredibly durable

When used as rainscreen cladding, natural slate forms a highly durable external envelope for houses. In fact, CUPACLAD systems were developed alongside architects and installers to ensure more than 100 years of durability, along with being fireproof, waterproof and highly resistant to the external elements. 

A ventilated façade such as this also means that moisture is quickly, reducing any risks of condensation forming.

CUPA PIZARRAS are the world leaders in natural slate and have over 125 years of experience in the field. For further information the CUPACLAD website.