It can be tempting to put off air con maintenance if nothing appears to be wrong with your system, but experts warn that this could be a costly mistake.

From refrigerant leaks to clogged filters, there are plenty of things that can go wrong without any visible signs. But with air conditioning units starting at around £750, you'll likely want to do everything you can to extend its lifespan.

Below, we explain everything you need to know about air con maintenance, including what needs checking, how much it costs, and the damage that can occur if you put it off.

What maintenance does an air con unit need?

1. Filter cleaning or replacement

At the very least, Lucy Arnold, Maintenance and Servicing Manager at PRA Air Conditioning, recommends cleaning or replacing the filters regularly to ensure they are free from dust and debris. While this doesn't replace a professional service, this basic maintenance will help the unit run efficiently.

2. Professional service

In addition to regular cleaning, Lucy says you should also have your air conditioning professionally serviced by an engineer. They will clean the internal components, check the airflow and electrical connections, and inspect the system for refrigerant leaks.

"Plus, they can spot small faults before they develop into much bigger and more expensive problems," she adds.

How do I know if my air con needs maintenance?

Ignoring these warning signs is one of the biggest air conditioning mistakes you can make:

1. System is running for longer than it used to: "If it takes an hour to cool the room when it used to do it in 20 minutes, something is not right," says Martyn Fowle, Founder of Elite Renewables.

2. Increase in electricity bills: Noticed a sudden – and seemingly random – hike in your bills? Martyn says your unit could be working harder because the filter is blocked, the outdoor unit is restricted, or the system is not operating efficiently.

3. Unusual symptoms: If you've noticed anything out of the ordinary, such as strange noises, unpleasant smells, water leaks or weaker cooling, it's worth having it checked, says Lucy Arnold.

How much does air con maintenance cost?

Wondering the cost of air conditioning maintenence? Martyn says to expect the following:

• Single wall-mounted unit: £70 to £120
• Two wall-mounted units: £130 to £200
• Larger multi-split system: £300+ (depending on the number of units)

"The important thing is to check what the price actually includes. You want the coils, drainage, electrical connections, airflow and general performance checked as well as the filter," he says.

"I’d also be wary of automatically paying for a refrigerant ‘top-up.’ Air conditioning is a sealed system, so if refrigerant is low, the engineer should be looking for a leak rather than simply adding more gas."

What happens if I don't service my air con unit?

No one wants to fork out £300 on air conditioning maintenance, but leaving it too long can result in a build-up of inefficiencies (in other words, you'll end up paying more for electricity each month).

Martyn says you can also shorten the lifespan of the system and could even void the warranty if the unit requires regular servicing.

How often should I service my air con unit?

Both Lucy and Martyn recommend servicing your air conditioning unit at least once a year – potentially more often if it's used heavily for both heating and cooling. If you spot anything out of the ordinary, as mentioned above, you should have it checked in between services.

Can I service my air con unit myself?

No, you should not attempt to service your air conditioning unit yourself, as it can be both a safety hazard and a risk to your warranty. However, there are a few basic maintenance tasks you can try, according to Martyn Fowle:

"Skipping professional maintenance or attempting technical repairs yourself could leave you paying for a future repair that would otherwise have been covered," concludes Lucy Arnold.

Enjoyed this? Find out whether air conditioning is worth it in the UK and whether air conditioning can ever look good.

If there's one thing every household needs in the cupboard, it's one of the best cooling fans. We may not need to use them all year round in the UK, but they're an absolute must-have when a hot and sticky heatwave strikes, helping to keep your home comfortable.

While cooling fans won't exactly lower the room temperature like the best portable air conditioners, they do have the advantage of being quieter and cheaper to run, without the need to vent a hose through a window. However, it's also worth thinking about how you can prevent heat gain in the first place and plan for a longer-term solution.

We know how hard it has become to get your hands on an in-stock cooling fan, so we've highlighted the retailers where units are still available, along with the best models we've ever tested.

Where to find in-stock cooling fans

Struggling to find a cooling fan that's still in-stock? I'm here to help:

Very has a few models available, including this bladeless fan by Quipulse and this mini desktop cooler.

Wayfair has a decent selection of options, from Symple Stuff's Desk Fan to their portable misting fan.

Amazon has this portable cooling fan and this bladeless tower fan, which looks very similar to the Dyson Cool.

Debenhams is the place to go for cooling fans right now. You'll find a range of models including this Air Pro Smart Fan and this heavy-duty floor fan.

The Quick List

Short on time? Here's a speedy overview of the best cooling fans we've tested, along with quick links to more details.

Top tip: If any of these fans are out of stock, check whether they're available for pre-order. Alternatively, you can shop the cooling fans currently in stock from the list above.

Best cooling fan overall

As a light sleeper, Homebuilding's editor Beth Murton thought she could never have a cooling fan in her bedroom, but Duux's Whisper Flex 2 Fan changed her mind. With noise levels as low as 13 decibels and a Quiet Mark accreditation, Beth said, "I had no issues falling asleep" and "the fan was so quiet that I barely noticed it."

Not only did this cooling fan score top points for noise (or, rather, its lack of it!), but it also features a night mode that dims the LED display and prevents any beeps from sounding when you change the settings.

Another advantage of this device is that it can be converted from a 54cm desk fan to a 92cm standing fan in just a few seconds, making it the perfect choice whether you're working, watching TV, or going to sleep.

If electricity costs are always in the back of your mind when you run a fan, you'll be happy to know that the Whisper Flex 2 costs just 1p per hour to run on the lowest setting, according to Duux.

While the fan can be controlled using either a remote control or an app, Beth wasn't able to connect it to her Wi-Fi, so she couldn't set it up. For that reason, it lost half a star. However, according to online reviews, the app is very easy to use, so the issue may simply have been with the internet connection itself.

If you're looking for a cheaper alternative, we'd also recommend the MeacoFan Sefte 6" Air Circulator.

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Best tabletop cooling fan

I've been using corded cooling fans for years, but after testing this portable model from Meaco, I'm never going back. Weighing just 3.2kg and featuring a built-in handle, the Sefte Pro 10" is a breeze to carry from room to room, and you won't have to worry about pesky cables getting tangled or in the way. This thing follows me everywhere during the summer.

When it comes to battery life, this fan lasts up to 40 hours on a full charge and takes just 3.5 hours to recharge. I also like that the battery is replaceable, meaning you don't need to chuck the whole thing out when it eventually dies. You can simply replace the battery instead, which is a more sustainable option.

Offering 12 speeds along with horizontal and vertical oscillation, this fan did a fantastic job of keeping my bedroom cool. Even when placed on the other side of the room, I could still feel the airflow (it can reach up to 32 metres).

Like Beth, I was sceptical about using a fan in my bedroom because I hate any kind of noise while I sleep, but I was pleasantly surprised by how quiet it was on the lower settings. I also appreciated the night mode, which dimmed the LED display and stopped the beeps when changing settings.

If you like the sound of this fan but were hoping to spend a little less, I would recommend the MeacoFan Sefte 6" instead, which is essentially a smaller, more affordable version.

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Best pedestal cooling fan

This cooling fan comes highly recommended by our assistant editor, Sarah Harley, who was seriously impressed by its modern design and low noise levels. She awarded it a strong 4.5-star rating and says, "If I urge you to do one thing this summer, it's to invest in this."

Operating at just 25 decibels on its lowest setting, this fan is another great choice for light sleepers, with Sarah saying, "I slept soundly and woke fresh as a daisy." Like the previous two options in this guide, this model also features a night mode that dims the LED display and mutes beeping sounds when you change the settings.

The fan can be controlled via either an app or a remote control, which glows in the dark for easy use at night. It also offers 12 speed settings, along with both vertical and horizontal oscillation.

The height can be adjusted to three different levels, making it versatile whether you're working at a desk, lying in bed, or moving around the house. However, Sarah notes that it isn't the quickest fan to adjust.

As for running costs, this fan will set you back just 1p per hour, which we think is a total bargain considering how well it cools you down.

While Sarah believes this fan is well worth the investment, if you're hoping to spend less than £199 on a cooling fan, you may want to consider the MeacoFan Sefte Pro 10" Table Air Circulator instead.

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Best air circulator

After testing the LUME Quiet Air Circulator Fan during a heatwave, our former News Editor, Joseph Mullane, was impressed by how effectively it cooled both his bedroom and home office.

Unlike other cooling fans he'd tested, which often left hot and cold spots, he found that this model kept the room consistently cool and comfortable. That's thanks to its 3D circulation system, which directs airflow in multiple directions simultaneously.

Like the DUUX Whisper Flex 2, which we also tested, this fan can be used as either a pedestal or tabletop fan and is easy to switch between the two modes, making it a versatile option for any room in the house.

The device offers 12 speed settings, along with horizontal and vertical oscillation. It operates at noise levels as low as 36 decibels, which Joseph said "blends into the background while I work" and "doesn't distract" him while he tries to sleep.

This fan also features a dimmable ambient light that gives it a warm, inviting glow, making it ideal for bedside use. It also includes a timer and sleep mode.

While Joseph was more than happy with the noise levels, this isn't the quietest option in this guide. If ultra-quiet operation is your top priority, you may want to consider the Duux Whisper Flex 2 Fan instead.

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Best portable cooling fan

If you're looking for a fan you can carry from room to room (or even pack in the car for UK staycations), this is the model I'd recommend. It's so lightweight (weighing just 1.7 kg) that I can carry it using one finger via the built-in handle – and it scores bonus points for being both cordless and portable.

Having tested Meaco's Sefte Pro 10" Table Air Circulator (which is essentially a larger version of this fan), I was doubtful that I'd want or need another one. However, despite its compact size, which measures just six inches, I was surprised at just how powerful the cooling was.

While the battery isn't as long-lasting as the Sefte Pro 10", it still delivers an impressive 26 hours of life after three hours of charging, and you can run it while it charges, so you never get caught out. The battery is also replaceable, which gives me reassurance that it will last a long time.

There are 12 speed settings and three modes (normal, eco, and night), with the latter dimming the LED display and muting control sounds. Vertical oscillation is adjusted manually, while horizontal oscillation can be activated at the touch of a button – though I have noticed that it rattles and squeaks quite a lot, so I rarely use it.

If the rattling oscillation is a deal-breaker, I would opt for the Meaco Sefte Pro 10" Table Air Circulator, which I have never had this problem with.

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How we tested the best cooling fans

To help you find the best cooling fan, we tested each device in this guide and considered the following:

Airflow: How powerful is the fan? How far does the breeze reach? How many speed settings and modes does it offer?

Noise level: How loud or quiet is the fan during operation? Is it distracting while you sleep or work?

Price: Is the fan good value for money, or is there a cheaper alternative that performs just as well?

Ease of use: How easy is it to set up and operate? How is it controlled? Is it easy to transport and adjust?

Wondering who's behind these reviews? Meet the team below:

For more information on our procedure, read our dedicated page on how we test products.

How to choose the best

With thousands of models on the market, choosing the best cooling fan can feel a little overwhelming. Here’s what to consider:

Type of fan: First things first, think about how and where you intend to use it. If it’s primarily for work, a tabletop model (like MeacoFan Sefte Pro 10" Table Air Circulator) is your best bet. If it’s for sleep, a pedestal option (like the Duux Whisper Flex 2 Fan) may be a stronger choice.

Airflow: It’s also worth considering how many speed settings the device has, as well as how far the breeze will reach. For larger spaces, you’ll want something with a wider reach, such as the MeacoFan Sefte 10" Pedestal Air Circulator, which can circulate air across spaces of up to 32 metres.

Noise level: This is a big one – especially if you’re a light sleeper or need near silence while you work. We’ve never tested a fan as quiet as the Duux Whisper Flex 2 Fan, which operates at just 13 decibels on its lowest setting.

Weight and size: If you plan on moving your fan from room to room, weight and size are important factors. You may even want to consider a cordless option, like the MeacoFan Sefte 6" Air Circulator.

Feeling undecided? Here’s a quick overview of all the specs you need to know from this buying guide:

For more advice on staying cool this summer, read our comparison of air conditioning vs fans or find out whether air conditioning is worth it in the UK.

Edited by Beth Murton.

Savvy shoppers feeling the heat can breathe a small sigh of relief. Despite multiple stores and online sites selling out of portable air conditioners and fans in the heatwave, Lidl is set to score a last-minute winning goal with the launch of 9 cooling products in store from 25 June 2026.

Including a portable air con unit for just £149, fans, bedding and pet items, we predict a sell-out, so don't hang around.

Here's what you could pick up if you get to the middle aisle on time.

Air con and fans

There are six products available in the cooling range.

First up is the Tronic 3-in-1 Air Conditioner that will retail for an unbelievable price of £149. Featuring three operating modes – air conditioning, fan cooling and dehumidifying it claims to deliver a powerful performance to suit a range of needs.

It also has two fan speeds and wheels meaning you can move it around your home with ease.

Also in the range are a Tronic Tower Fan (£17.99), a Tronic Large Bladeless Fan (£59.99), Tronic Portable Air Cooler (£14.99), Tronic Bladeless Mini Desk Fan (£14.99) and a Tronic Portable Fan (£7.99).

While Amazon Prime Day still has a range of fans and personal cooling items available, not all are available on next day delivery, meaning a quick trip to your nearest Lidl could be a quicker way to get cool for less.

B&Q also has a range of air con units showing as available for home delivery, and Screwfix is still providing a check for stock levels in your area service on their air con range.

But, if you want guaranteed cooling from 8am in the morning, Lidl might be your best bet.

Shop for cooling products

Cooling bedding

If, like us, keeping your bedroom cool at night is proving problematic, you may be looking at bedding that will help.

Lidl are again coming to the rescue with two items that could turn your sleepless nights into slumber-filled ones. The Livarno Coldtouch Pillowcase will be available for £3.99 and the Livarno TopCool Pillow for only £6.99.

Homebuilding & Renovating's Content director, Laura Crombie, rates this Silentnight Restore Cooling Lightweight Blanket, to complete your summer bedding selection.

Don't forget your pets

Of course, it's not just humans who are struggling in the heat either. Pets are struggling too (I currently have three fans on the go trying to keep my pooch from overheating – including the MeacoFan Sefte 10" Pedestal Air Circulator and two Honeywell QuietSet Whole Room Oscillating Tower Fans, available on Amazon).

I'll certainly be running to Lidl to pick up the final item in the cooling range, the Zoofari Dog Cooling Mat for £4.99. Although this Dog Cooling Mat is available on Amazon Prime with delivery showing as next day, it may not arrive until later in the day, whereas I could have this Lidl one home and set up by 8.30am.

We know that not everyone is able to grab these deals, so if like the rest of the UK you're desperately trying to find ways to keep cool, follow the advice in how to keep cool without air con, and if you do want to protect yourself from future heatwaves, take a look at what's involved in installing air conditioning in your home.

I’ll admit it, I initially had my doubts about the MeacoFan Sefte 6" Portable Air Circulator. After all, how much power could a six-inch fan really deliver? However, it’s safe to say that after testing it for over a week, I’ve completely changed my mind.

I’ve recently been using the MeacoFan Sefte Pro 10" Air Circulator, which I’m absolutely obsessed with, so this smaller version had a lot to live up to if it was going to replace my current setup.

To find out whether this is one of the best cooling fans on the market – including how well it performed, how easy it is to use, and how it compares to its bigger sister – read my honest review below.

MeacoFan Sefte 6" Portable Air Circulator: specs

MeacoFan Sefte 6" Portable Air Circulator: first impressions and set-up

The fan arrived in a cardboard box and was well-protected with paper pulp as well as a reusable storage bag, which will come in handy over the winter when it is not in use.

The device came with everything I needed to get started: a charging cable, an instruction manual, a battery for the fan, and the remote. I put the battery in, placed it on charge, and within a few hours it was good to go. I barely needed to read the instructions as it was all pretty self-explanatory.

As someone who constantly loses chargers, I would have preferred a USB-C port. However, I am impressed that the battery is replaceable, making it more eco-friendly and longer-lasting than other cheaper models I’ve seen.

I was pleasantly surprised at how lightweight the fan was, weighing just 1.7 kg with a built-in handle for easy transportation. I can even carry it with just two fingers. As for the design, its simple black and white colours blend in nicely with my bedroom.

How the MeacoFan Sefte 6 Portable Air Circulator performed

The good

Like I mentioned, I was skeptical that this tiny fan would be able to deliver any impressive results, but to my surprise, its powerful cooling reaches 16 metres – that’s roughly the size of a lorry for scale! It also offers up to 70° vertical and horizontal oscillation to ensure the whole room is cooled evenly.

There are 12 different speeds to choose from, which can be controlled either manually on the device or via the remote control – which, by the way, magnetically attaches to the fan so you never lose it (genius!) It also glows in the dark, which I found very cool.

The fan has three different modes: Eco, Normal, and Night. The latter is a game-changer for light sleepers, turning off the LED display to ensure your sleep remains undisturbed.

Measuring just 32.4 x 21.0 x 18.0 cm, I’ll be packing this fan for summer UK staycations when I’m unsure whether the hotel will have air conditioning or adequate cooling. Plus, my car’s air conditioning is currently broken, so I can easily put this on the passenger seat if a heatwave strikes.

The bad

One thing I was a little disappointed in was the noise. Meaco says the levels are as low as 22 decibels, which, for reference, is slightly louder than a whisper. However, from about speed level three onwards, the noise can become a little distracting and sounds like it's rattling. The rattling noise increases when it's set to horizontal oscillation – even when I placed it on various surfaces.

Perhaps my expectations for noise were just too high, given that it’s a smaller device...

MeacoFan Sefte 6" vs MeacoFan Sefte Pro 10" Air Circulator

Final thoughts

All in all, I was really impressed with this latest offering from Meaco. It might not be the cheapest mini fan out there, but even the fact that the battery is replaceable shows me that it’s going to last a long time, rather than something you chuck out after a few years when it breaks.

If the MeacoFan Sefte Pro 10" Table Air Circulator is out of your price range, having tested both, I can confirm that there isn’t a huge difference between the two. Obviously, the 10" has more power and a greater range, but you can get away with this smaller version if you need to and save a bit of money.

It’s lightweight, simple to use, and does a fantastic job of cooling me down – whether I’m working at my desk, trying to sleep, or baking in the kitchen. I love the fact that I can carry it around from room to room without it being a faff, and the long-lasting battery life and short charging time are a great bonus.

You may also want to read our review of the Dyson Pure Cool Activated Carbon Fan and Air Purifier, which helped our former news editor with his allergies. Or, for something with a little more oomph, read our round-up of the best portable air conditioners.

For the majority of the year, my Edwardian cottage, is bordering on Arctic temperatures. It doesn't matter whether it's finally 'shorts weather' outside and the sun is shining, inside remains undeniably nippy. That said, for two or three months of the year when things really warm up, trying to sleep upstairs becomes an experience that, I imagine, is akin to hanging out in a pizza oven. In short, it becomes unbearably hot.

This has lead me to look into installing air conditioning or, at the very least, investing in a portable unit – anything to get a good night's sleep and reduce the horribly stuffy atmosphere that develops in the bedrooms.

The thing is, I have rarely been bowled over by the appearance of air con units – so do I really want one in my home? To help me decide whether or not to take the plunge, I reached out to the experts to find out if there is a way to get air conditioning units to blend in a little, while still doing their job.

Is air conditioning always an eyesore?

When I think of air conditioning, I think either of those great big wall-mounted units you see in offices that have slightly yellowed over time, or hulking great portable beasts that require you to hang an unsightly pipe out of your window for all to see. Is this what you have to give into if you want to cool down a room in your house this summer?

"Ugly AC is a personal obsession of mine," picks up Kevin Pennington, owner and MD of Lancashire Air Conditioning. "But air conditioning does not need to be ugly. It is ugly because we do not have a fully developed air-conditioning market in this country and most people are just buying units in an emergency from anywhere. They're not thinking about the design, just about how to get their kids to be able to sleep when the house is boiling hot."

Sam Carter, heating and cooling appliances expert at Appliances Direct, agrees that the issue often comes down to a lack of research, rather than a complete absence of attractive options. "In the UK, home air conditioning popularity is growing, but there is still a little education needed on the types available, and the pros and cons of each. However, a little research before purchasing should help you find the right appliance to fit your needs."

Can you vent portable air conditioning units subtly?

Let's start by looking at portable air conditioning units, usually the go-to for UK homeowners who use them in summer and store them in winter. I actually tested one out not too long ago and, while it cooled the room quickly, the fact that the ducting needed to be hung out of the window ruined things a bit. So, what's the solution?

"In the UK people tend to start with loud, ugly portable units and they fling the hose out of the window," says Kevin Pennington. "The next step up from this would be to core a hole through the wall and fit an exterior vent. This should cost around £200-£300, plus the cost of the unit.

"It leaves the outside looking better and makes these units more effective because you don’t have a window open, but ultimately you are still left with a loud – and arguably 'ugly' – portable unit," he continues. "Once people have got fed up with the noise and appearance, they tend to upgrade to a properly fitted unit."

That said, Sam Carter is keen to point out that the design of the best portable air conditioning units has really progressed in recent years meaning they aren't always the hefty eyesores they once were.

"Portable air conditioning units don’t need to be bulky or get in the way – modern units come in a variety of sizes, colours and styles, so you can usually find one that fits into your space in a more subtle way.

"Modern top-end portable units are designed with a smaller footprint and in premium finishes," adds Sam. "Manufacturers are utilising matte textures, minimalist digital displays, and sleek, vertical silhouettes. Instead of looking like a jarring appliance, modern portables are designed to blend into the room like a high-end air purifier or smart speaker, allowing them to sit discreetly alongside furniture or houseplants."

Shop portable air conditioning units

Are all wall-mounted air con units big white boxes?

If you want something a bit more permanent then it is worth looking at wall-mounted vs portable air conditioners. Wall-mounted is usually seen as the next step up. Again, the examples I've seen have not been too inspiring up until now, but is that changing?

"Of the all the standard white units, I’ve always preferred the Worcester Bosch 3200i series and I also like the LG Standard Plus units," reveals Kevin Pennington. "The LG unit is particularly attractive because it has a chrome strip across the bottom which makes it look slightly less industrial. However, we have to be realistic – both units might work incredibly well but they are still white boxes."

The positive here is that if you are prepared to pay a little more in the name of aesthetics, wall units do come in colours other than white, and in some sleeker designs too, as Kevin points out. "There are some really beautiful units available to members of the public if they are willing to just spend a little more money.

"The LG Artcool mirror is a very attractive unit, with smoked black glass on the front. Taking it up a notch is the Toshiba Haori," he suggests. "This unit has an interchangeable fabric cover and with either the default fabric or a custom fabric chosen to complement the room it can look phenomenal. You can even get units that look like photo frames now."

Daikin have also recognised the need for something more aesthetic with the new, design award-winning Stylish range of air con units. Available in a range of finishes, including silver, black, fabric, wood effect, a bright blue and even a leather effect, the kit comes with everything you need for a more blended interior approach. It's also once of the slimmest models meaning the size is less obtrusive too.

So, while there's no getting away from the fact that you will still need to mount a box at high level on your wall, there are at least now options other than white that can help you blend air con into your interior slightly more seamlessly.

That said, if speed is more your priority than appearance, then some retailers, such as BOXT pride themselves on a fast quote to installation process, so it could be a case of weighing up what matters most to you. The company has also partnered up with B&Q to offer customers extra discounts when purchasing through the DIY store.

What is the best way to blend in an air conditioning unit?

If you don't love the idea of your air conditioning costs spiralling, there are still ways of blending in more affordable designs, as Tom Houlker, director and air conditioning expert at Houlk Air, explains.

"Air conditioning can blend in as long as you don’t treat it like an afterthought. The worst installs are those where the unit is just installed onto the nearest spare wall. If it’s lined up properly, kept clear of clutter, and placed somewhere that makes sense with the room, it can look neat and blend in," says Tom.

"The best-looking jobs are usually planned early, before the room is finished," continues Tom. "That gives you a chance to hide pipework, choose a better position and avoid awkward runs across walls. With retrofits, I’d focus on a clean install rather than trying to make the unit disappear completely.

"A slim wall-mounted unit in the right place will often look better than badly boxing something in," he recommends. "Tidy pipework, straight trunking and sensible positioning make a huge difference, because people notice messy work far more than they notice the unit itself."

What is the most attractive type of air conditioning?

There are several different types of air conditioning available, each with their own set of pros and cons. There tends, however, to be one clear winner when it comes to good-looks.

"If you don't mind spending a good amount of money, nothing is better than a hidden ducted system," states Kevin Pennington. "This is the gold standard of systems. The air conditioning unit is hidden in an attic or in a plastered space like a bulkhead. Most of these units use plastic or metal grills to allow the airflow to enter and be removed from the room and these can look very nice.

"For a really great finish, however, we use gypsum vents," he continues, "which are plastered into the ceiling directly and can be almost invisible. That said, these systems are expensive and only a few companies are able to install them to a high standard."

Tom Houlker agrees that, for a sleek finish, ducted systems are the best option but points out that careful air conditioning installation is required for it to be worthwhile. "Before choosing one, check that you actually have enough ceiling or loft space to properly house the ductwork," he advises.

"You still need proper airflow and service access, because if a unit is boxed in too tightly or hidden behind joinery, it can struggle to cool, collect dust, become harder to clean, and cost more to repair because engineers can’t get to it as easily."

FAQs

What is the best way to duct portable air conditioning to the outside?

For many people in the UK, using air conditioning to keep a house cool is not often required, meaning portable units are ideal. That said, knowing how to vent them to outside in a way that doesn't ruin the kerb appeal of your home or get in the way inside, can be tricky.

There are several ways to approach this and Sam Carter explains the most common (and simplest). "Most portable air conditioners are supplied with a window kit which allows you to neatly fix your portable AC to your window without looking messy from outside. There are options for all window types including window seals that neatly zip around your window."

If, however, you don't relish the idea of your window having to be open to run your air conditioning, it might be better to run the ducting through a hole in your exterior wall, with a neat vent on the outside.

Air conditioning isn't for everyone – and if you have decided to give it a miss, there are plenty of very effective natural ways to cool a house for you to consider instead. Or, if you think a fan will be sufficient, check out our review of the Duux Whisper Flex 2 Fan or the MeacoFan Sefte 10" Pedestal Air Circulator – which was tested during a heatwave.

At first glance, it doesn’t seem there should be much difference between a fan and something like the LUME Quiet Air Circulator Fan (available on Amazon).

But after a few days of using it in two very different spaces – my bedroom at night and my office desk during the day – the experience started to feel noticeably different.

The key question, though, is whether that difference actually makes a noticeable improvement when you’re living with it day to day, especially during a heatwave.

LUME Quiet Air Circulator Fan vs standard fan

A standard fan works by pushing a concentrated stream of air in one direction. That’s useful if you’re sitting directly in front of it, but it doesn’t really solve the wider issue of a warm or stagnant room.

The LUME Quiet Air Circulator Fan takes a different approach. Instead of focusing airflow into one spot, it keeps air moving continuously around the space. With its 3D oscillation system – combining horizontal and vertical movement – this device helps distribute air more evenly throughout the room.

In my bedroom, that means fewer noticeable warm patches overnight. At my desk, it avoids that “hot corner/cold corner” feeling you often get with a typical fan.

LUME Quiet Air Circulator Fan noise levels

One of the most noticeable things about the LUME Quiet Air Circulator Fan is how quiet it is in use.

Like the MeacoFan Sefte Pro we also tested, this model carries Quiet Mark certification, which is given to products designed to reduce noise without sacrificing performance.

Even when turned up to higher speeds, the LUME Quiet Air Circulator Fan avoids the harsh mechanical hum you normally associate with fans.

In the bedroom, that makes overnight use more realistic without distraction. At my desk, it simply blends into the background while I work.

Airflow control and 3D circulation system

The LUME Quiet Air Circulator Fan includes 12 speed settings and three airflow modes (Normal, Natural, Sleep), allowing it to be adjusted depending on how intense the heat feels.

The key feature is the 3D circulation system. Rather than pushing air in a straight line, it directs airflow across multiple directions simultaneously providing cooling while also helping to improve indoor air quality.

This helps reduce still air pockets in the room and creates a more consistent overall cooling effect. It also means I don’t need to constantly reposition it between sleep and work setups.

Flexible 2-in-1 design

One of the reasons the LUME Quiet Air Circulator Fan works for my setup is that it easily switches between a pedestal fan and a desk fan.

At my office desk, I use it in desk mode for more direct airflow while working, allowing me to improve the ambient temperature. In the bedroom, I switch it to pedestal mode so it can circulate air more broadly while I sleep.

That flexibility makes it easier to use one device across two completely different environments without compromise.

Ambient backlight

The LUME Quiet Air Circulator Fan also includes a dimmable ambient backlight with three brightness levels.

It’s not essential for airflow, but it does add a secondary use as a subtle night light or ambient glow in the evening.

A remote control makes it easy to adjust settings without getting up once the unit is positioned, while the timer and sleep mode features make it more practical for overnight use or longer work sessions without requiring constant adjustments.

Final thoughts

Using the LUME Quiet Air Circulator Fan in both my bedroom and office setup has made the difference between “feeling a fan” and actually improving the overall airflow in a room.

It’s not a dramatic change at first, but over time, the consistency and quiet operation make it feel like a more complete approach to cooling during a heatwave.

Want to browse around before making your purchase? Our buying guide on the best cooling fans is a good place to start. Or, read our review on the MeacoFan Sefte Pedestal Air Circulator, praised by our assistant editor for its "whisper-quiet" design.

There was a point, some time last summer, when there was serious talk in our household about getting air conditioning. The bedrooms upstairs become unbearably hot when temperatures rose, largely due to the fact that there is little in the way of insulation in the either the walls or the roof, but also because a couple are south-facing.

We toyed with the idea of getting a couple of portable units, as well as mulling over whether or not, when we come to extend, getting something more permanent might be a good plan.

However, the expense involved was a deterrent, as was the fact that, just a few months later, I was complaining about being too cold to sleep at night. That said, with summer now upon us once more, I am again wondering whether air con should be on our agenda. But, before parting with any money, I asked the experts for their opinions – and their answers took me by surprise.

Is fitting air conditioning a good idea?

First things first, in an area of the world that really struggles when it comes to any kind of sustained warm weather, is spending money on air conditioning to keep a house cool for a few months of the year a wise thing to do?

Mike Bain, marketing manager at iHeat, told me that I was not alone in considering it. "We had a huge spike in enquiries during last year's heatwaves, especially when temperatures started creeping towards 40°C in parts of the UK, and we expect this year to be the same. The bedroom is probably the biggest area of demand for us," he explains. "Once people go through a few nights trying to sleep in 30°C heat, installing air conditioning suddenly starts to feel a lot less like a luxury."

Kevin Pennington, owner and managing director of Lancashire Air Conditioning, was also keen to highlight the positives. "When it does get ridiculously hot in the summer, air conditioning is phenomenally good to have in your home. This country is generally quite cold, but the changes to the building regulations have made houses much warmer, even in mild weather, especially when the house gets lots of solar gain through the windows.

"Imagine not having to lose sleep and not having your kids upset because they’re too hot," says Kevin. "When you get air conditioning, that problem goes away forever."

Why install air conditioning in the UK?

Undoubtedly the idea of being able to cool down our bedrooms in the midst of summer is appealing. But with hot weather such a rarity, is it worth the money?

"A lot of people still think of it as something you’d only use for a couple of weeks a year, but that’s not really how customers are looking at it anymore," explains Mike Bain. "Most modern systems both heat and cool, so homeowners are using them all year round to keep rooms at a comfortable temperature rather than just blasting cold air during a heatwave."

Given that air conditioning could also heat my bedrooms, which are freezing cold in the winter, it is starting to sound even more appealing.

"Air conditioning is the single most efficient form of heating that exists. Modern A+++ units are actually air-to-air heat pumps and they are so efficient that they use a very small amount of electricity to generate good amounts of heat," explains Kevin Pennington.

"Because we live in a temperate climate, it is very rarely below zero and often it is only between 6-10°C outside. This means that heat pumps work very well. In this country we need lots of heating, and I specifically use air conditioning for the purpose of heating rooms that I spend most of my time in," he continues.

"I have air conditioning only in my lounge and my bedroom. I am either at work or I’m generally in one of those rooms meaning I don’t have to put my central heating on to heat the whole house if it’s just me in and I’m only in one room. It is a phenomenal way of heating, and saves a fortune on gas."

Shop portable air conditioning

What type of air conditioning is best in the UK?

It's clear then that air conditioning, particularly units that can heat a house as well as cool it down, do make sense. But what are the best options for the UK specifically?

In terms of the different types of air conditioning, portable units are the most obvious, and certainly the cheapest option, but how do they compare to fixed or ducted systems?

"The biggest shift for us is that people aren’t really asking 'do I need air con?' anymore. They’re asking questions about what type of system is best for their home and how many rooms they should cover," says Mike Bain. "There's very little selling for us to do, and it's more just a case of giving customers a good price and fast installation turnarounds."

If speed is your priority yhen some retailers, such as BOXT pride themselves on a fast quote to installation process, in some cases even installing next day when ordered before 3pm.

"In the UK people usually start with portable air conditioning units that need the hose to be vented to outside," adds Kevin Pennington. "Once people have got used to having a level of cooling but have had enough the noise at night, they tend to upgrade to a fitted unit vs a portable one.

"Because a fixed unit is an A+++ heat pump, it is incredibly attractive to people looking for energy efficient homes. A two room system using one single multi split unit is a good idea. Air conditioning in the master bedroom and the main living space leads to a much better quality of life, especially in homes that suffer from overheating due to solar gain."

"What we’re also seeing now is more multi-room installations," adds Mike Bain. "Instead of cooling one room, customers are having a single outdoor unit connected to multiple indoor units around the home, all controlled separately. It’s becoming much more of a whole-home comfort product."

How much does air conditioning cost to install and run?

Obviously, before shopping around, it is a good idea to have an idea of air conditioning costs. So what should homeowners expect to pay?

"To give you a brief idea of cost, a fully installed, good quality wall-mounted unit usually costs somewhere around £1,500 to £2,500, depending on the model and the complexity of the job," advises Kevin Pennington. "A two-room system, using one single multi-split unit would cost somewhere between £3,500 and £6,000 roughly, depending on the complexity and the quality of the unit units."

"A fixed air conditioning system for a bedroom or single room will usually land somewhere around £1,500 to £3,000 installed, depending on the set-up, brand and so on," says Mike Bain. "Portable units are obviously cheaper upfront (roughly £300 to £700 for a decent one) and can work fine short term, but they’re generally noisier and nowhere near as efficient or effective as a proper fixed system. Plus, you normally have to run a pipe to the outside."

If you're looking for current offers, then BOXT has also partnered up with B&Q to offer customers extra discounts.

Will installing air conditioning add value to a house?

At the same time as enjoying the obvious cooling benefits of air conditioning, many people, myself included, are interested to know whether it is likely to add to their value of their house.

In modern houses, according to Kevin Pennington, it could well contribute to an uplift in value. "It absolutely adds value to a house. Buyers are becoming very aware of how hot newly insulated houses get in the summer, and an A+++ heat pump is incredibly attractive to people looking for energy efficient homes."

That said, Mike Bain goes on to point out that we are still a way off air conditioning being a deal breaker for buyers here in the UK.

"I don’t think air conditioning is at the point in the UK where it massively adds value to a property in estate agent terms, but it definitely makes homes more desirable," he says, "especially newer properties, or those with loft conversions and south-facing bedrooms that get unbearably hot in summer."

Is it worth UK homeowners installing air conditioning in existing homes?

Plenty for me to think about then. Heat pumps that allow for both cooling and heating are a great idea and certainly something well worth considering for those self-building or carrying out extensive renovation work, but how about for someone like me, living in an old house, who is considering retrofitting?

"When you realise you will realistically use it all winter for cheap, zoned heating and all summer for cooling, it is one of the best investments you can make," says Kevin Pennington, although he goes on to explain that choosing the right system is crucial to make it worth it.

For my home, Kevin suggests sticking to a smaller scale system that cools just a couple of rooms rather than the whole house.

"Being realistic, unless you are prepared to spend a considerable amount of money, installing air conditioning in your entire house is not a great idea," explains Kevin. "We have some clients who have done this, but they generally live in large architect-designed properties and their budget allows them to have hidden ducted systems. Systems like this cost £50,000+ and they’re not realistic for the average homeowner."

FAQs

What is the difference between air conditioning and air source heat pumps?

This can cause some confusion. Fixed air conditioning units are a type of air-to-air heat pump. While people often think of air conditioning as something that only cools a room, they can also work in reverse, delivering warm air to heat it.

Not all air conditioning units can both heat and cool – those that can are known as air-to-air heat pumps.

Air conditioning with no heating function is a little cheaper than air-to-air heat pumps, but there is little difference in terms of running costs. However, if you were to opt for an air-to-water heat pump, which works a little differently and can be linked to your radiators or underfloor heating, costs will definitely rise.

If you are still unsure whether to take the plunge and install air conditioning, portable options are certainly worth a look. The best portable air conditioning can cool a room really quickly, are quick to set up and can be stored away when not needed.

Or, if it's simply not on your budget for this summer, try these 7 heat-busting tips for keeping a house cool, even without air con.

As the weather gets warmer, we all need a trusty fan to get us through those hot summer nights. Since my bedroom is located in a top-floor loft conversion that gets absolutely baking, I jumped at the chance to test out Meaco's brand-new offering: the MeacoFan Sefte Pro 10" Table Air Circulator (available on Amazon).

What caught my attention most about this new “whisper-quiet” model wasn’t just the fact that it’s completely portable (goodbye, pesky cables!), but also that the battery is rechargeable and replaceable, making it more eco-friendly than others I’ve seen.

To find out whether this fan is as good as the previous non-Pro version we also tested – and whether it was up to the job of cooling my oven-of-a-bedroom despite its compact size – keep reading.

MeacoFan Sefte Pro 10" Table Air Circulator: specifications

MeacoFan Sefte Pro 10" Table Air Circulator: first impressions and set-up

Sleek and simple, the Sefte Pro Table Air Circulator exceeded all my expectations when it came to design – its modern appearance blends in perfectly with my white bedroom walls, so I’m happy to leave it out all summer long.

However, thanks to its built-in handle, lightweight build, and compact size – measuring just 432 x 305 x 227 mm – it would be easy enough to tuck away in a cupboard if you’d prefer it out of sight.

The fan comes with an instruction manual that’s pretty simple to follow, though it did take me a while to work out how to remove the battery lid. The device also comes with a charging cable and remote control, which I was very excited to later discover is glow-in-the-dark and magnetically connects to the fan! My only negative is that I wish the charger was USB-C, as I’m forever losing cables.

On the subject of charging, it only takes 3.5 hours to reach 100% battery, which delivers an impressive 40 hours of use – keeping my house cool all day long.

How the MeacoFan Sefte Pro 10" Table Air Circulator performed

The Sefte Pro series comes in two models: pedestal and table. I opted for the latter because it’s easier to carry from room to room, while the cordless design means I can place it anywhere in my home with ease.

Since the battery is replaceable, the device should last much longer than many of its competitors, which is good news for both the planet and my bank account. You can still operate the fan while it’s charging, so even if the battery runs flat, you won’t be left sweltering without it.

I hate any sort of noise when I’m trying to sleep, so I always dreaded using my old fan whenever summer rolled around. Even with earplugs in, I could always hear the hum, and it drove me nuts. So, when I tested the MeacoFan Sefte Pro, I was pleasantly surprised that I couldn't hear anything. Even without earplugs, my partner confirmed that it makes “very little noise” and “certainly doesn’t stop me from sleeping.”

As someone who gets cold during the night, I was also pleased to see that it comes with a remote control, saving me from having to switch it off manually and fully waking myself up at 4am. The remote can control the speed, oscillation (both vertical and horizontal), timer, pause function, and more. These settings can also be adjusted via the mobile app.

This thoughtfully designed fan also features a night mode, which turns off the LCD display and mutes the beeps so your sleep remains undisturbed – something more appliance brands should take on board.

It offers 12 speeds and can project airflow up to 32 metres – roughly the length of a Boeing 737. It also oscillates from 30° to 120° horizontally and 20° to 65° vertically. If you want the room to feel cool and crisp for your arrival home, you can set auto start and stop timers anywhere between one and 12 hours.

Final thoughts

Suitable for sleeping, working, or chilling around the house, the portable and whisper-quiet design of this fan makes it an excellent all-rounder for wherever you want to use it. It's the best cooling fan I've ever tested and I've been raving about it to my friends and family.

While I have seen rechargeable fans with a lower price tag (like this one from Dunelm for £36), I haven’t seen any with such long battery life, as much oscillation, app control, or a replaceable battery. However, it all depends on whether these features are important to you or if you simply want something affordable that gets the job done.

For me personally, I’d rather invest in something a little more expensive that I know is going to last – and I love the fact that I can pack it with me on UK holidays if my hotel doesn’t have air conditioning.

As someone who often wonders about the quality of the air we're breathing in – primarily down to the fact we live on a busy high street – when I was offered the chance to test the Aranet4 HOME monitor, I was more than happy to give it a try.

While I have a carbon monoxide detector, and use an air purifier in the main living space, I was interested to just how clean my air was, how humidity was affecting my home, and if there were any problems in particular rooms.

Everywhere is single-glazed and the only means of ventilation are opening the windows – which at the front of the property open onto the street – and extractor fans in bathrooms. I dry my washing indoors, and am a frequent dehumidifier user, so it's no surprise I've been wondering what the air in my home is really like.

Buy the Aranet4 HOME monitor today

How the Aranet4 HOME monitor works

The Aranet4 HOME is a small, screen-based indoor air quality monitor that tracks CO₂ temperature, humidity and air pressure in real time.

It provides lab-grade CO₂ measurements using a NDIR (non-dispersive infrared) sensor, and the CO₂ levels are measured in parts per million (ppm). CO2 levels are commonly used as an indicator of ventilation effectiveness, with rising levels generally suggesting insufficient air exchange – or in other words, stale air being present.

While it's impossible for no C02 to be present given it's in the air we breathe out, good home ventilation naturally keeps air flowing, and therefore reduces the amount of CO2 that is present.

According to the makers of the Aranet4 HOME monitor, a well ventilated indoors should register around 400 – 800 ppm. 800 – 1200 ppm indicates moderately raised levels, while anything above 1200ppm would suggest poor and insufficient ventilation.

The reasons levels matter is because breathing poor quality air can have a number of implications. As well as reducing your cognitive abilities (particularly concerning if you have a home office, or a multi-generational household), higher levels can also increase the risk of airborne infections circulating.

In addition to the CO2 readings, temperature readings are taken so you can check if your home is at the recommended levels throughout the year, particularly helpful in winter when the minimum house temperature should be 18°C to help prevent mould and damp.

Humidity levels are taken as this is usually a key concern for homeowners due to high humidity again being associated with related moisture build-up problems. And, the one reading that I didn't realise also contributed so much to your home's health is the atmospheric pressure number.

Imbalances in pressure can impact a number of conditions in your home. In the winter, negative pressure – when the levels inside are lower compared to outside – can lead to cold air and pollutants being drawn inside. This can impact energy bills and could change your air quality.

Positive pressure – when it's higher inside than out – can then push dry air out and pull warm, moist air inside, pushing it into your home or even into cavity walls rising interstitial condensation.

How to read the results

In terms of how you read the results, while the on-screen display is clear and simple to read, the monitor also connects with the Aranet app via bluetooth and also lets you pull up graphs to compare the results over time.

The front of the monitor – or the app screen shows all four readings on a constant basis, and they are updated to a time setting of your choice. Mine updates every 5 minutes.

Subscription free, it's designed to give you clear indicators when air quality drops and ventilation is needed. This is achieved in two ways. Firstly the bar on the monitor display moves between the red, yellow and green strips to show where your CO2 levels sit, but you can also activate a buzzer which will alarm if your levels exceed 1400 ppm. This can also be adjusted to a lower amount via the app.

The constant humidity display is particularly handy during the winter months when you might be wondering if you need to partake in some house burping in order to prevent condensation and mould building up in your home. Or, if like me, you have more moisture than normal due to drying clothes indoors.

And, if you don't have a smart thermostat installed, the temperature function will identify if your house is getting too hot or too cold, potentially helping you to be more energy-efficient as a result.

Atmospheric pressure, is also clear and can again be seen in an easy-to-read graph, which, like the other figures, can be set to show daily, weekly or custom date readings.

Setting up the Aranet4 HOME monitor

The Aranet4 HOME arrived in small box, and at first glance was pretty unassuming. It looked more industrial in appearance than I was expecting, but given its compact size – 70 x 70 x 24mm and only 104g in weight – it's discreet enough that you wouldn't really notice if it was on display. Plus, as it can also be wall-mounted, it could also be located somewhere that wasn't in full view.

Once opened, a guide is inside with a QR code that when scanned leads you to the set-up instructions. All that you physically need to do is remove the stickers on the front of the monitor and add batteries to the rear. These are provided, but even replacing them when they run out won't be expensive as they are standard AA batteries. I don't know about you, but I always have some floating around in my kitchen drawers, and often stock up on bulk packs such as this pack of 40 AA Amazon Basic alkaline batteries as my sons always seem to need them for gaming controllers.

Once the batteries were in, I scanned the QR code which led me to this clear, simple guidance regarding the next steps. It was an easily scrollable PDF on mobile (also available via the website) which explained what the display showed, how to configure settings on the monitor if you didn't want to connect via the app, or how to get the app to connect your monitor using bluetooth.

Set-up, including pairing to the app took around 6 minutes in total, which meant that from unboxing to getting real-time results took less than 10 minutes. Not bad for a piece of kit that could be boosting the well-being of my family, and the health of my home.

How I've tested the Aranet4 HOME monitor

One of the things I've liked the most about testing the Aranet4 HOME monitor is just how easy it is to move it around my home. I've used it in my bedroom, my ensuite bathroom, my son's bedroom and the main open plan kitchen, dining and living room area in order to see how each room differs from the other.

In each room, I've placed it on a shelf or unit where I can easily see it, but it's the app I've checked the most when I want to see just what's going on with the air. And, while I'm only monitoring the results of one Aranet4 HOME monitor, you can add more to your network, name them using the room where they are located, and then toggle through each different set of readings. Something that could be handy in a larger home, or if you want to keep an eye on your basement ventilation for example.

What results have I seen to date?

The temperature in my home is less of a concern for me as despite the single glazing, using the window shutter tip that's helped me stay warm in winter and cooler in summer means we're never really cold. I've set my Hive smart thermostat to manage heat output through the day, and using the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater tops up a room if I don't need to boost all of the radiators. Then, last summer, when it got particularly hot, the Meaco Fan 10" Sefte Pedestal Air Circulator helped keep me cool.

So, when reviewing the Aranet4 HOME monitor, I've been more interested in the CO2 levels and humidity, although the atmospheric pressure reading shows imbalances that I need to keep an eye on as well. Ideally as it should match the outdoor level, the line needs to be more consistent than it currently is.

1. CO2 levels and readings

While the buzzer has never gone off on the Aranet4 HOME monitor to indicate the CO2 levels are above 1400ppm in a room, it has crept into the mid, and even high range more times than I thought it would.

I've only noticed this on the monitor screen once as I don't spend my whole day looking at it. But, the appeal of this monitor for me is the fact it I can check everything on an app when I want to.

While I've not spotted any obvious patterns yet in terms of why the CO2 rises sometimes, I suspect over time I may as I continue to trial it around my home. As I've only got one monitor, I have had to note the times and dates when it is moved into a different room to try and establish where the problem may be, but for the purposes of reviewing the product that's fine. If I was considering them on a permanent basis, more monitors named to each room would certainly be a more sensible solution.

As we're moving into the warmer weather with windows being opened more frequently, I would hope to see less yellow and more green readings on the graph results but only time will tell.

2. Humidity levels

Overall, given the weather continues to be changeable and I continue to dry washing indoors as I have no outdoor space, I'm pleased with the humidity levels in the property. Most experts say that normal humidity levels in a house should be in the 40-60% range and so far, the monitor has only registered one day when it exceeded those numbers.

While I already use the DeLonghi DEX212F 12L Tasciugo AriaDry Dehumidifer to help dry laundry, I also have the MeacoDry ABC 12L dehumidifier in my bedroom and it's made me question whether I should maybe still be using this a little more to prevent any condensation until the warmer weather has fully arrived as it's only in bedrooms we are still noticing the odd appearance of window condensation.

As I have sash windows, I don't have trickle vents that could help with some natural air flow to avoid this. So for now, it's back to some house burping and a few more dehumidifier sessions to keep the air cool and fresh.

Final verdict

So, has the Aranet4 HOME monitor made me feel more comfortable about the air in my home? Overall, the answer would certainly be yes. It's raised a few questions regarding CO2 levels, but given I live in an older, listed property on a high street I'm not surprised that the air isn't as clean and fresh as it could be in a new home, where building regulation rules around ventilation would alleviate these issues.

The humidity readings have reassured me that I'm managing this fairly effectively, but that there's always room for improvement. It's easy to assume that once winter is over you don't need to worry, but I think I do need to pay more attention while the weather is still so unpredictable. And, as mentioned, the atmospheric pressure has made me realise just how much there is to keep an eye on with home air quality.

In terms of the negatives, I'd say the first is that the appearance of the monitor is less appealing than it could be for a product that's meant for a home. What's perhaps more frustrating is that there is a solution in the form of a sticker set that can be applied to the front of the monitor. They have space so that the display is clear, but cover the internal workings. But, the problem is they aren't yet available in the UK.

And then of course there's the price. It's not cheap, and a quick internet search pulls up considerably lower priced alternatives such as this Air Quality Monitor from Amazon that appears to do much the same job. That said, without investigating it or testing it, it's impossible to compare.

However, the Aranet4 HOME monitor has been developed alongside a range of professional products designed for the workplace and far bigger settings than a home. It's this expertise that has been used on the home products that make me more confident it's reading the air to a higher standard than other options. Plus, with a range of additional sensors available, it would be easy to create a whole home system to give you total control over your home.

If I'd invested in a hefty home renovation of an older property, adding these throughout the home would probably be an investment I'd consider. Monitoring the results could help give advance warning if there were problems with excess moisture from damp for example. If a building survey had noted radon below ground, you could also add a radon monitor to check if levels were problematic.

Would I buy one for a brand new home? It's unlikely unless I started to have concerns that the levels of ventilation weren't up to standard, but, it's good to know that high-level monitoring is available for a residential setting if needed.

And, if I was to buy them, I'd certainly want stickers to make them look that little bit more aesthetic.

After discovering that we spend 80 to 90% of our lives indoors, I decided it was time to improve my home’s air quality with an air purifier. What I found out really shocked me and even changed a couple of habits I had previously been firm on.

For this experiment, I tested the Vitesy Portable Air Purifier (available on Amazon), which measures VOCs, carbon dioxide, temperature, and humidity. As a reference, VOC levels measure the amount of chemical vapours in the air and should ideally be under 1 mg/m³. A perfect carbon dioxide level is around 400 ppm, but anything under 1,000 ppm is optimal.

To find out what I learned and what I'll be changing going forwards, keep on reading.

1. Candles are bad news for my indoor air quality

Lighting a candle is one of my favourite evening rituals, so I was disappointed to discover that they can reduce the quality of your indoor air.

While my soy wax candles are definitely cleaner to burn compared to paraffin, they still release traces of formaldehyde, acetaldehyde, and acrolein, as well as other compounds found in fragrance oils. From now on, I'll be switching to beeswax, which is even cleaner, and burning candles less often – or at least with the window open.

"Candles would be classed as a VOC, and therefore there would be a negative impact on air quality," confirms Chris Michael, co-founder of Meaco.

2. My bedroom needs better ventilation

As someone who is prone to feeling the cold, I would usually avoid opening windows at all costs during the winter and spring. However, after noticing how much carbon dioxide levels rise in my bedroom overnight, I’ve started cracking them open while I sleep.

My air purifier revealed that carbon dioxide has reached as high as 4,408ppm, which for context, is eleven times higher than perfect levels. To find out whether this was normal, I asked Michael Zahouri, a ventilation expert from Pyramid Eco.

"That’s very normal and something people usually notice when they start using air quality monitors. CO2 rises overnight because people are breathing in confined spaces for several hours," he assures.

"Every time we breathe out, we release carbon dioxide. At night, there’s less ventilation because the windows and doors are closed, so it builds up. It just means the room isn’t getting much fresh air while you sleep, which is very common in modern homes that are more airtight."

Unfortunately, an air purifier won't help with reducing carbon dioxide levels, so I'll just have to settle for a colder bedroom until the summer.

3. I need to run the air purifier constantly

Prior to using an air purifier, I naively thought I could simply turn it on and off when needed, but that’s not the case. According to Chris Michael, you need to run your air purifier continuously throughout the day to reap the benefits – something I wasn’t aware of.

Thankfully, my air purifier has a ‘quiet’ mode, which means it doesn’t disturb me during focused work or at bedtime. This is something to consider before buying one if you’re as sensitive to noise as I am.

When I turned my air purifier off, I noticed that the indoor air quality score dropped, so I now keep it running in the background.

4. My VOC levels rise at night

I thought that VOC levels would stay relatively similar if there were no changes in the room, so it took me by surprise when I saw them peak during the night – especially since everything appeared to stay the same.

Michael Zahouri explains, "VOC levels tend to rise at night simply because the air in the room is not being refreshed. When the room is closed up, anything that gives off small amounts of chemicals will build up over time. You get VOCs from furniture, carpets, paint, cleaning products or even bedding. Bedrooms usually show the biggest change because the door and windows stay closed for hours."

I never thought I’d reduce my beloved candles or resort to keeping the window open on cold nights, but my air purifier has highlighted the importance of air quality – and it now feels like a competitive challenge to achieve the best conditions possible.

To learn more about improving your indoor air quality, read our guide on how to reduce toxins during a renovation and what an eco paint is.

Reach for the best dehumidifier on the market and you might expect it to tackle everything from damp walls to dusty shelves. But the reality is a little more nuanced. While a dehumidifier is a genuinely powerful tool for improving indoor air quality, its relationship with dust is indirect and understanding the difference could save you money and a lot of frustration.

The culprit behind most dust-related allergies is not the dust itself, but the microscopic droppings left behind by dust mites – creatures that depend on humidity to survive. That is where a dehumidifier enters the picture. To find out exactly how, we asked three air quality experts to explain where dehumidifiers help with dust and where they fall short. Here is what they told us.

Does a dehumidifier help with dust?

The short answer is: not directly. A dehumidifier does not filter or hoover dust out of the air. What it does is remove excess moisture and in doing so, it dismantles the humid environment that allows dust mites and mould to thrive.

"A dehumidifier is not going to suck dust out of your air," explains Sam Carter, radiator and dehumidifier expert at Appliances Direct. "What it does is tackle the environment that lets dust mites and mould settle in the first place. Dust mites don't drink water – they absorb moisture from the air – so when you drop the humidity of your home they shrivel up and stop breeding."

Chris Michael, co-founder of Meaco, echoes this. "A dehumidifier's job is moisture control," he explains. "Most models include a basic dust filter, but it mainly protects the machine by catching larger particles before they reach internal components – it isn't there to clean your air. However, by reducing humidity, it helps reduce the conditions in which dust mites and mould thrive, which can reduce allergen build-up over time."

At what humidity level do dust mites and mould become a problem?

If you want to use a dehumidifier effectively against dust mites, it's important to know the ideal humidity for your home.

“Dust mites thrive when the relative humidity of your house is over 60%,” says Sam Carter. “So, set your dehumidifier to target 45–50% humidity, and this will make it dry enough to shut down mite breeding and to stop mould in its tracks – but not so dry that you’re waking up with static hair and cracked lips.”

Chris Michael adds that the UK climate plays a significant role. “During prolonged periods above around 65% relative humidity, conditions become much more favourable for dust mites and mould growth,” he warns, “especially in cooler rooms and areas with limited airflow and daylight such as bedrooms, bathrooms, corners and behind furniture.” Many UK households, he says, aim for around 50–55% RH as a practical target for comfort and damp control.

But there is such a thing as too dry. Push humidity too low and you create a different problem entirely. According to Noel Fok, co-founder of EcoAir, overly dry air irritates the throat and worsens symptoms for people with existing respiratory conditions – making 40% RH the floor, not just a guideline.

Can a dehumidifier help with allergies or asthma?

For the millions of people in the UK living with dust allergies or asthma, the good news is that a dehumidifier can genuinely help. The key is knowing what it actually does. It removes the conditions dust mites need to survive, which tackles the problem at its source. What it cannot do is clear the allergens already circulating in the air around you.

Once humidity settles at a healthy level, Noel Fok explains, allergens will gradually become inactive and stop posing a threat. Just be careful not to overcorrect. Air that is too dry can irritate the throat and nasal passages, which may end up making allergy symptoms worse rather than better.

If you want to go a step further, it is worth looking at models with integrated HEPA filtration. As Chris Michael points out, these work on two fronts, controlling humidity while also trapping airborne particles. So, for anyone serious about managing allergies at home, they are well worth considering.

Dehumidifier vs air purifier: Which one do you need?

If dust and allergens are your main concern, you may find you need an air purifier rather than a dehumidifier – or at least an understanding of how the two differ. Because while both can improve how your home feels, they work in very different ways.

"Unlike a dehumidifier, an air purifier actively cleans the air of existing airborne allergens by capturing them in a filter as air passes through," explains Noel Fok. "But the two can work very well together – one prevents the proliferation of allergens, the other purifies the air of those already present."

In practice, the best starting point comes down to your biggest bugbear. Struggling with condensation on your windows or damp patches on the wall? A dehumidifier should be your first port of call. If it is more a case of sneezing fits, pet dander or seasonal pollen making life miserable indoors, an air purifier with a true HEPA filter will likely make a more noticeable difference, more quickly. And if your budget stretches to both, running them in tandem is the most thorough approach of all.

When a dehumidifier won’t help with dust at all

A dehumidifier is not always the answer and knowing when to reach for something else (or simply the vacuum) can save you both money and frustration.

If your indoor humidity already sits in a healthy range, running a dehumidifier harder will not make a dent in your dust levels. And if the root cause has nothing to do with moisture – pet dander, carpet fibres, pollen drifting in through an open window – then humidity control is largely beside the point. "Those allergens don't care about humidity," says Sam Carter, "they just need a source and some breeze."

Settled dust is a whole other matter. No appliance, however powerful, will lift dust from your shelves or skirting boards. "Once it's sitting there, no machine is going to suck it up," Sam points out. "You need to vacuum – preferably with a HEPA machine, so you're not just blasting it back into the air."

The dehumidifier takes care of what is airborne and moisture-driven. Everything else still comes down to a good old-fashioned clean.

If you've spotted ice forming on your dehumidifier's coils, our guide to why your dehumidifier is freezing up is the first place to look. Getting the right model for your home's temperature range – and keeping on top of a few simple dehumidifier maintenance habits – should stop it from happening again.

But if your dehumidifier has started making strange noises or just isn't performing the way it used to, it might be worth checking how long dehumidifiers typically last. Sometimes, an upgrade is simply the most sensible solution.

I can't count how many times I've had to rewash laundry because it developed that horrible damp smell after air-drying indoors. On a mission to solve this weekly frustration, I turned to my colleagues here at Homebuilding & Renovating to see if they had a solution.

Below, they've revealed their favourite methods for drying laundry indoors – from using one of the best dehumidifiers as an energy-efficient alternative to a tumble dryer, to a traditional pulley rack to save valuable floor space (while also putting a rustic spin on your utility room).

To find out the best way to dry laundry (without the need for a tumble dryer or outdoor space), keep reading.

1. Traditional pulley rack

🏆Best for saving floor space

Our web editor, Amy Willis, swears by her traditional pulley rack for drying her laundry, praising its space-saving design that frees up valuable floor space in her utility room. While she initially bought it for aesthetic reasons, she has found it to be very practical too – keeping her laundry up and out of the way, while drying it quickly.

"We had a bit of difficulty finding the joists when fitting it (meaning we now have a collection of holes we need to fill), but once that was out of the way, it's become a laundry essential for us.

"I tend to leave it hoisted and reach up to put wet clothing on it to dry. I've actually been surprised how quickly things dry on there too. I don't know if it is because heat rises or because it is well spaced between the rails but I've never had a damp clothing problem – even with my hand washing."

2. Dehumidifier

🏆Best for energy-efficiency

You've probably heard of using a dehumidifier to tackle condensation and damp, but what about drying laundry with a dehumidifer? These moisture-busting machines are an excellent, energy-efficient alternative to tumble dryers and could save you up to £664.30 annually, according to Chris Michael, co-founder of Meaco.

Dehumidifiers are also quieter, take up less space, and are gentler on clothes in comparison. The only real caveat is that they are significantly slower, taking around five hours longer to dry.

Homebuilding's editor Beth Murton recommends Meaco's DD8L dehumidifier for drying wet clothes, which she uses on its dedicated laundry setting. When placed next to her clothes airer, she likes how it keeps her clothes free of damp smells and her home free of excess moisture, while also reducing the energy costs of drying.

"It's made a huge difference to how quickly my washing dries indoors," says Beth. "It also means I don't have to have the central heating on all the time to get clothes dry. Getting large items like duvet covers dry quickly without a tumble dryer can be particularly problematic, but I've found my dehumidifier makes light work of those too."

3. Heated airer and dehumidifier combo

🏆Best for quick results

One of the biggest problems with drying clothes indoors is the risk of damp and mould growth in your home. To tackle this common dilemma, our assistant editor, Sarah Harley, runs her dehumidifier and heated airer at the same time – a powerful combination that ensures excess moisture is removed from the air while her clothes dry nicely on the rails.

She explains, "Although it means running two devices at once, they both have a relatively low energy consumption. I also do all my drying on a small landing where there's a radiator, and close the bedroom doors while the airer and dehumidifier are on. It ensures both products are working hard on drying the clothes, rather than heating or absorbing moisture from the rooms around the landing.

"Although nothing beats drying outside in the fresh air, in flats or during winter, I'd always recommend this double-pronged approach as the quickest way to dry items, and more importantly, reduce excess moisture permeating into your home."

While a tumble dryer is the obvious solution for drying laundry quickly, these options are excellent alternatives for saving money and electricity while avoiding damp smells and cumbersome rails.

For more expert advice, read our comparison of dehumidifiers vs tumble dryers or browse our favourite laundry room ideas.

Green mould is a familiar issue in many UK homes, especially during colder months when condensation levels rise. It often appears in corners, around windows, or tucked behind furniture, and while it may not seem as serious as dreaded black mould, it’s still a clear sign that excess damp is present. Although it isn’t usually dangerous, prolonged exposure can irritate airways and trigger symptoms for those with asthma or allergies.

Like other types of mould, green mould forms when warm, moisture-laden air meets cold surfaces. Poor ventilation, uneven heating, and gaps in insulation can all create the right conditions for spores to settle and grow.

Thankfully, green mould is usually a symptom rather than a structural problem. In this guide, we’ll show you how to identify the source of excess moisture, remove the mould safely and effectively, and put the right preventative measures in place – so it stays gone.

What is green mould and how can you identify it?

Green mould isn’t one single species but a broad term for several fungi that appear green due to the colour of their spores. As Jess Thomas, director of Drainage Central, explains: “Green mould is a type of fungus, but it is not one particular type of mould. Usually, green mould is Aspergillus, Penicillium or Cladosporium."

"It occurs in places where there are high levels of moisture and organic matter, such as bathrooms, kitchens, windowsills, walls and even food," says Jess. "Unlike black mould, which is associated with water damage, green mould can grow in a wider range of places and is fuzzy or powdery instead of slimy and wet.”

However, according to Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco, "the colour is less important than the cause. Whether it looks green, black or even slightly pink in some cases, mould is always a sign of excess moisture. Greener variations tend to show up more clearly on walls and fabrics, which is why people notice it."

What causes green mould on internal walls?

When it comes to green mould on walls, moisture / damp is almost always at the root of the problem. In the UK, our cooler temperatures and frequent rainfall make condensation a common culprit, particularly during autumn and winter.

Mark Irving, expert at Build & Plumb, explains that a build-up of excess moisture inside the home creates the ideal conditions for mould spores to settle and spread. "From everyday activities such as cooking and showering to hidden leaks and insulation gaps, there are several reasons why green patches might start appearing on your walls":

• Condensation from cooking, showering and drying clothes indoors.
• Poor ventilation, including ineffective extractor fans and closed trickle vents.
• Rising damp, often linked to a failed damp-proof course.
• Penetrating damp, caused by damaged guttering, leaking pipes or faulty pointing.
• Poor heating and insulation, particularly where cold spots allow moisture to settle on surfaces.

Condensation or damp problem – how can you tell?

It’s crucial to establish whether green mould is being caused by everyday condensation or a more serious structural damp issue, as the best way to treat and remove the mould will depend entirely on the underlying source.

According to Mark Irving, mould caused by everyday condensation tends to form in predictable places, such as corners of rooms, around window reveals or behind furniture positioned against external walls. It's often worse during the colder months, when warm indoor air meets cooler surfaces and moisture settles.

More serious damp issues, however, usually leave additional clues. Penetrating damp may show itself through blistered paint, damaged plaster or staining that corresponds with external defects such as faulty guttering or cracked pointing. Rising damp often creates tide marks along the lower portion of walls, accompanied by peeling wallpaper or deteriorating skirting boards.

Mould linked to structural moisture problems is typically more persistent, forming in larger patches and often accompanied by visible water marks or ongoing damp patches. If mould returns quickly after cleaning – even after steps have been taken to improve air quality and airflow – it may indicate that the issue runs deeper than simple condensation and warrants further investigation.

Is green mould dangerous?

“Whilst not all mould exposure can lead to illnesses, indoor growth should still be considered a potential health concern," cautions Mark Irving. "As mould reproduces, if inhaled, the spores can irritate the respiratory system. Even short-term exposure can cause symptoms such as coughing and wheezing. Those with recurring health issues, such as asthma sufferers or those with weakened immune systems, will be particularly vulnerable.”

Green mould isn’t typically toxic in itself, but that doesn’t mean it should be ignored. Over time, living with it and sleeping in the same room can increase exposure to airborne spores and potentially aggravate respiratory issues.

How to get rid of green mould on walls

The fast DIY method of removing green mould

Small areas of green mould (under 1m²) can often be treated on a DIY basis. Here's how the experts recommend cleaning it on your own:

• Ventilate the room by opening windows and close internal doors to limit spread.
• Wear gloves and a mask.
• Lightly mist the area with a specialist mould spray or a solution of white vinegar and water, and leave to sit for the specified amount of time before wiping.
• Use a damp cloth and avoid aggressive scrubbing.
• Dispose of cloths in a sealed bag.

A word of warning: “Wiping or disturbing mould can release spores into the air, especially if you disturb the mould when it is dry,” warns Jess Thomas “You should never dry scrub or dry brush mould. When cleaning mould, ensure that you are wearing the proper protective equipment such as a mask, goggles and gloves.”

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Longer term solutions

“The long-term solution is always moisture control,” says Michael Zohouri. “Mould is just the symptom. The real issue is that something in the house is staying damp for too long.”

He advises tackling leaks as a priority. “The first thing is to deal with any leaks straight away. Even a small drip under a sink or a slow pipe leak inside a wall can create the right conditions for mould to keep returning.

Ventilation, he adds, is just as important. “Use your extractor fans every single time you shower or cook, and make sure they are actually venting outside rather than into a loft space.”

Maintaining a steady ambient temperature through the colder months can also make a big difference. “When walls get very cold, condensation forms much more easily.”

Finally, he points to a common but often overlooked issue: furniture placement. “Something I see all the time is furniture pushed tight against external walls. Leaving a small gap behind wardrobes and sofas allows air to circulate. That can stop mould forming quietly out of sight.”

FAQs

Will green mould go away on its own?

Sadly, no. Mould won’t simply disappear once it’s made itself at home. While a spell of drier weather or improved heating might make it look less obvious, the spores remain and if moisture levels rise again, it will quickly return. The only way to get rid of it properly is to tackle both the visible growth and the source of the damp that’s feeding it.

Where is green mould most likely to appear?

"Bathrooms and kitchens are obvious mould hotspots because of steam," says Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco. "Basements are also common, especially if they are cool and slightly damp."

"Mould on window frames is another frequent location, as warm indoor air hits the cold glass and surrounding plaster, and condensation forms. Over time, mould can grow on seals and paintwork," Michael adds.

But bedrooms are actually one of the biggest problem areas. "People keep doors and windows closed overnight, and breathing alone releases moisture. If that room has a cold external wall and limited airflow, mould can form quite quickly."

Is it safe to sleep in a room with green mould?

“Although you can technically sleep in a room where green mould is present, it is not recommended due to the health risks associated with prolonged exposure to mould,” warns Jess Thomas.

Bedrooms are spaces where we spend hours at a time, often with doors and windows closed. Repeated exposure to airborne spores – particularly overnight – can aggravate asthma and other respiratory conditions. If mould is visible in a bedroom, it’s best dealt with promptly.

Can you paint over green mould?

Painting over mould might seem like a quick fix, but it rarely solves the problem. If the underlying moisture hasn’t been addressed, the mould will simply grow back through the new paint. Before redecorating, the area should be thoroughly cleaned and fully dried, and any ventilation or damp issues resolved. Anti-mould paint can help in high-moisture areas such as bathrooms, but they’re a preventative measure, not a cure.

When should you call for professional help?

If green mould keeps staging a comeback – or has spread beyond a small, manageable patch – it may be time to call in the professionals. A qualified surveyor or damp specialist can dig a little deeper to uncover what’s really going on, whether that’s a hidden leak, insulation gap or persistent condensation issue. Simply scrubbing away what you can see might tidy things up for now, but unless the moisture source is tackled, it’s likely to be a short-lived victory.

How can you tell if it's green mould or mildew?

Telling green mould vs mildew apart can be tricky, as both thrive in damp conditions. Mildew is usually lighter in colour – white, grey or pale yellow – and tends to sit on the surface, making it easier to wipe away. Green mould is typically darker, often green-grey or almost black indoors, and can look fuzzy or velvety, spreading more quickly if moisture persists. Outside, green growth on walls is often algae rather than mould, appearing brighter and more slimy due to rain and shade rather than indoor humidity.

If you suspect excess moisture is behind green mould on your walls, it could be worth investing in one of the best dehumidifiers and brushing up on how to test for mould and how to treat damp properly to prevent it returning.

Did you know that, on average, people spend 80 to 90% of their lives indoors? That’s why having good air quality at home is so important – especially since it has a direct impact on your health.

It’s common knowledge that you shouldn’t smoke inside and that installing a carbon monoxide alarm is best practice, but there are plenty of other ways you can help improve the air quality in your home, like upgrading your insulation and investing in an air purifier.

To find out what they are – and how to tell if your air quality is poor – we spoke with ventilation experts to hear their advice on what you can do about it.

How to improve indoor air quality

1. Install sufficient ventilation

To lower the risk of respiratory problems, you’ll need to ensure your home is properly ventilated, according to Simon Redfearn, Managing Director of Redfearn Experts.

By combining the methods below, you’ll help remove pollutants (such as nitrogen dioxide and carbon monoxide) and reduce moisture build-up that can cause dust mites and mould growth.

• Open windows for purge ventilation
• Use extraction fans in wet rooms, such as kitchens and bathrooms
• Use trickle vents in windows for constant background airflow

2. Improve insulation in your home

To maintain a steady, controlled temperature (which will help prevent cold spots, damp and subsequent mould), make sure your home is sufficiently insulated. Here are some methods that Simon Redfearn recommends:

• Airtightness measures: "While making a home 'airtight' with better insulation can improve energy efficiency, it requires modern ventilation systems – such as mechanical ventilation with heat recovery (MVHR). This ensures air is still replaced, preventing air quality from degrading."
• Double/triple glazing: When paired with trickle vents, double or triple glazing can help prevent condensation, reduce draughts, and support controlled ventilation.
• Cavity wall and loft insulation: Cavity wall and loft insulation can also reduce cold spots on walls and prevent condensation – as long as there is proper ventilation.

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3. Invest in an air purifier and dehumidifier

Air purifiers are an easy way to clean the air in your home by removing unwanted particles. When “dirty” air is sucked in through the fan, it passes over a filter that neutralises contaminants before releasing sanitised air back into the environment.

"A unit fitted with a true HEPA filter captures fine particles such as pollen, dust, pet dander and mould spores. Air purifiers are built to circulate and filter the air continuously, often achieving multiple air changes per hour in a room," says Chris Michael, co-founder of Meaco.

Most models also come with air quality sensors and a display, so you can monitor your home and keep track of particulate levels, he explains.

If your home has high humidity levels, it may also be worth investing in a dehumidifier to remove excess moisture caused by daily activities such as showering and cooking. You can also buy one with a built-in air purifier.

Chris explains that while they won’t clean the air, the best dehumidifiers can improve the overall environment by preventing mould growth and dust mite activity. However, dehumidifiers can have a negative effect if mould is already present, as they may circulate airborne spores.

4. Follow air quality best practices

Here are some other indoor air quality guidelines, recommended by the NHS:

• Don't smoke or vape inside your home
• Use gentle, fragrance-free cleaning products
• Avoid plug-in fragrances
• Choose low VOC paints and varnishes when decorating
• Keep indoor burning to a minimum, including coal fires, candles and log burners
• Ventilate your home while cooking and cleaning
• Fit your home with a carbon monoxide leak alarm
• Ensure new appliances have proper ventilation
• Regularly service your heaters, cookers and boilers 
• Vacuum regularly (even better if it has a HEPA filter)
• If you live near a busy road, shut your windows during rush hour
• Test for radon in your home

Signs of poor air quality

If you're concerned about poor air quality in your home, Simon Redfearn says to look out for the following signs:

• Regular headaches, dry eyes, nasal congestion, or worsening asthma
• Persistent condensation on windows, damp patches on walls, or visible mould growth in corners or behind furniture
• Lingering smells from cooking, cleaning products, or a general 'stale' feeling in the air
• Moisture levels consistently above 60%

Indoor air pollution can cause short-term respiratory symptoms and long-term lung, heart, and blood vessel problems, so it’s worth making these small but important changes in your home.

If you found this helpful, you may also want to learn what damp smells like and whether air purifiers help with mould.

My partner has yet to finish his new build garage, built specially to house his pride and joy. Meanwhile, I was itching to use this new space to get rid of some clutter from the house, which is a very small, two-bedroom cottage.

But while my partner has added electric underfloor heating to the garage floor (apparently cars need such luxuries), he has yet to finish off the electrical work to connect it up and heat the space. This means the garage is very cold, raising the risk of stored items (and his car) becoming damaged by condensation, damp and mould while the weather is dank outside.

So when I was given the opportunity to test the Meaco DD8L pro desiccant dehumidifier I jumped at the chance. I wanted to see if this was the best dehumidifier to keep my stored items damp and mould free, while my partner was salivating at the thought of potentially giving his car optimum climate-controlled conditions.

Practicalities of using a dessicant dehumidifer in a cold space

It's important to understand why I chose to test this Meaco DD8L pro desiccant dehumidifier in a cold garage, rather than inside the main house.

When it comes to desiccant vs compressor dehumidifiers, desiccant dehumidifiers work better in colder spaces because they operate by absorbing moisture from the air with a desiccant material. Compressor dehumidifiers meanwhile use refrigerant to cool coils inside them so moisture can be removed from the air via condensation. For this condensation to occur, there needs to be a noticeable difference in coil temperature and room temperature, hence why compressor dehumidifiers tend to work better in warmer spaces like inside the house.

That said, a desiccant dehumidifier still needs a minimum temperature threshold of 1°C to make sure the machine doesn't freeze up. Given the lack of underfloor heating in the newbuild garage, to solve the problem for testing, I added an oil-filled radiator to the space to make sure the temperature was always higher than freezing.

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Unboxing the Meaco DD8L Pro

The Meaco DD8L pro desiccant dehumidifier arrived in a smart cardboard box that was well-packed, with protective inserts to stop the contents moving around and getting damaged.

The machine itself had a dust cover over it, meanwhile the information booklets on how to use the dehumidifier were easy to find when opening from the top. There was a large ergonomic indentation at the back of the machine for lifting the dehumidifier out of the box.

This particular model was fairly large so I would say it had a reasonable weight to it, but it was very easy to pull out of the box, even with the dust cover on it.

First impressions

The Meaco DD8L pro desiccant dehumidifier has all the hallmarks of a workhorse of a machine. And that's exactly what I needed for a large double bay garage with a concrete floor.

It has a decent 2 litre water collection tank, as well as having the option for continuous drainage, handy in a space that doesn't see regular footfall.

What's a nice touch with this particular dehumidifier is that it looks slick, with a dark top to it, so no dirty fingermarks show on areas where someone might be pressing buttons. It is fairly bulky owing to its 58cm x 36cm x 23cm dimensions, but this is to be expected if the machine is to be powerful enough to control humidity in larger spaces.

A smart-looking machine is of course ideal in a posh garage beside a fancy car. It might have been fun to be able to customise it in red to match the vehicle but, sadly, I don't think any dehumidifier offers this option.

What is cool about this particular machine though, is that it can be wall-mounted with the bracket designed by Meaco for this machine, making it ideal for space-saving in smaller garages. There's also a cable tidy on the back of the machine to hide away any unsightly wires when not in use. And, if you do decide to leave it on the floor, you can also buy separate castors on the Meaco website to be able to easily wheel it about.

Ease of use

Any dehumidifier will need to be left for 48 hours after delivery before attempting to turn it on. With compressor models this is to make sure compressor oil and refrigerant settles, much like a fridge, while desiccant dehumidifiers have a rotating desiccant wheel inside that also needs time to settle to avoid damage on start-up. You can read more this and how dehumidifiers work in our explainer on the topic.

Once I had waited, I plugged the Meaco DD8L pro desiccant dehumidifier in and pressed the "on" symbol. This was easy to find, to the bottom left of the control panel.

Immediately, the dehumidifier whirred into action, displaying the humidity reading of the room on the screen. Without having to adjust any settings, there was a clear indication of '55%RH' as the target room humidity setting it was aiming towards.

Despite a desiccant dehumidifier being ideal for colder spaces, I initially plugged in this dehumidifier inside the house so I could get a feel for the controls, before putting it into position beside the super car in the garage.

Overall, having used dehumidifiers before, I found this dehumidifier very easy to start up and use. It was literally one button to press after being connected to an electric source, before it started up and got to work instantly.

Using the control panel

The Meaco DD8L pro desiccant dehumidifier is impressively easy to operate, but does still have wide functionality. If you want a simple start, all you need to do is press the 'on' button after plugging it in and it will roar into action, with a target humidity reading of 55%RH, which is what you would usually want for normal humidity in a house.

Meanwhile, if you wanted to use this dehumidifier for laundry, you can easily press the T-shirt button to crank up the humidity setting to 35%RH which will whip more moisture from the air.

For my purposes in the garage, I found the ability to toggle between power settings very useful. I was able to set it at a low wattage with a slow fan speed to use minimal electricity. This was ideal for leaving the dehumidifier permanently on, controlling the humidity of the space at all times. Once its target humidity is reached – or the water tank is full – the dehumidifier also has an automatic shut off.

I loved that this dehumidifier had a germ and bacteria extraction setting too. While the new build garage doesn't have any damp or mould, I can see this being useful in older spaces. I have a damp wall in my house, and I often worry about airborne mould spores and bacteria around that space. Knowing my dehumidifier is removing these is added piece of mind.

Here's an overview of what all the different buttons on the DD8L do:

• On/off button. Turns the dehumidifier on or off. You'll find when you turn the dehumidifier off, it asks you to wait before unplugging the machine so it can cool down. This is little annoying, but I guess a helpful feature to avoid unintended damage.
• Large waterdrop button. Operate smart humidity mode by pressing this button once and automatically targeting a humidity setting of 55%RH. Pressing this button multiple times meanwhile will change the humidity to any required level.
• Small triple waterdrop button. Allows you to select the power of the dehumidifier and its fan speed. Select one drop for low fan speed and 200 watts of power, two drops for medium fan speed and 400 watts of power, and three drops for high speed fan and high power of 600 watts.
• T-shirt button. Pressing this button will activate smart laundry mode, giving the dehumidifier a target humidity setting of 35%RH. Press the smart humidity button (the large waterdrop) to stop laundry mode.
• Half-moon button. Press this button to activate night mode and child lock. This makes the dehumidifier much quieter by reducing the fan speed, fixing the louvre open, stopping the buttons from beeping and turning the lights off the display. Press the button twice to exit night mode.
• Clock button. You can switch a timer on with this button to make the dehumidifier start up at a specific time, or make it stop at a specific time.
• ++ and - symbol button. This is the ioniser and should be turned on when you want the dehumidifier to extract germs and bacteria from the air, as well as mould spores, odours and, apparently, ticks (yes really, apparently ticks become airborne and 'fly' through the air using static electricity to suck your blood). When this is on, it will show this same icon on the control panel.
• Louvre button. Operate the louvre on the top of the machine to either a fixed open position, or moving across a narrow, medium or wide position. The angle of the louvre will then display on the control panel.

Using the DD8L pro with a phone

I was looking forward to testing this dehumidifier on the Meaco app as it wasn't something I had done before. There wasn't much in the instruction manual about doing this, but a google-search found this YouTube video explaining how to set the dehumidifier up on the Meaco app.

After registering on the app, I went on to "add device". Both your dehumidifier and your phone need to be on the same WiFi network for this to be successful, and you need to know your WiFi password (a bit of a faff but I eventually found it). If this doesn't work, you can also follow the instructions to add the machine manually, but you'll still need to know your WiFi password.

I found using the dehumidifier with the app useful, mainly as it flagged when the water tank was empty, meaning I didn't need to keep checking in person. The app also tracked the humidity level in the garage, which allowed me to see how much work the dehumidifier was putting in to maintain the climate.

Overall the app was useful, but not essential, which probably is exactly what it should be.

Emptying the water collector

I've been using dehumidifiers a while and usually the removal of the water tank is a bit cumbersome, heavy to lift and fiddly to put back in. Generally you find access to the water tank is from the front, but the DD8L has a water tank that you pull out from the side.

This side-opening tank turned out to be much less cumbersome, and it even had a handle for carrying the tank to a sink for emptying. I was pretty impressed actually, perhaps because I've found them so annoying to handle in the past.

Like many desiccant units, this dehumidifier's water tank was on the smaller side, but I didn't find this a problem. I could still leave the dehumidifier for several days before needing to empty it – and the longer I used it in the space, the less attention it needed.

When the water tank is full, a full cup symbol appeared on the control panel and the dehumidifier switched itself off automatically.

Switching to continuous drainage mode

Unlike other machines, the continuous drainage on this machine is very easily accessible at the back, with its own removable rubber cover. This was perfect for use in a garage as there was no fiddling around trying to access it.

The spout, called the 'right angle adapter', meanwhile was hidden away in the water tank (ideal for not accidentally losing it) and slid easily into place. As with other Meaco dehumidifiers, it was annoying that no continuous drainage hose was included, although a piece of normal garden hose is apparently the right size for slotting onto the spout. You could also argue that sourcing one yourself means you can get the right length too.

It is worth noting that continuous drainage is gravity fed, so you do need a drain at the same level or below the machine for this to be workable, as well as a suitable outfall (drain, sink etc).

How did the dessicant dehumidifer perform?

This particular dehumidifier is absolutely perfect for use in a garage. Not only does this model perform efficiently in colder temperatures (as you would expect with a desiccant dehumidifier), but its adjustable power settings really tailor this machine for your space.

This gives users the choice to save on dehumidifier running costs by selecting a low watt setting, or cranking it up to max power for more needy spaces, and even whacking on the germ exterminator too.

But the DD8L Pro Desiccant dehumidifier, which is now available on Amazon, offers so much more; features that might not be useful inside a home, but are super useful in a garage or outbuilding. You can add wheels to move it around a large space, or a wall mount to increase useable floor space. Meanwhile, stick a hose on it and you've got yourself a secure, permanent drainage system.

Add to that the ability to control the dehumidifier remotely on your phone, or your Google Home Hub or Alexa, and you can give yourself a setup that rarely needs any input, saving you valuable time and effort.

While the Meaco DD8L pro desiccant dehumidifier is on the pricey end of the cost spectrum (desiccant dehumidifiers often are), I'd argue that for all the functionality it offers, this unit is well-worth the investment.

So, was the Meaco DD8L pro desiccant dehumidifier the perfect companion for the super car? Absolutely. Not only does this machine look cool next to the car, it is giving the garage (and the car) a steady 55%RH climate at all times. My partner is also more than happy to volunteer to look after it, which I take as a clear sign that the DD8L pro is doing an excellent job at giving his car the perfect storage climate while it is tucked up over winter.

If you are considering buying a dehumidifier for your home, don't make the dehumidifier mistake of skimping on your model. When it comes to budget vs premium dehumidifier, you'll end up getting a lot more value for money by investing in a unit that is powerful enough for the job.

Bathrooms are one room in the house that really need to offer a consistently comfortable environment – after all, you are likely to spend much of your time in this space in a state of partial or total undress. Not the place for sub-zero temperatures.

You might think you are doing all the right things – installing one of the best bathroom extractor fans, fitting correctly sized heated towel rails and radiators or even an underfloor heating system – yet if you are still finding yourself shivering when you step out of the shower, something is not right.

It might surprise you to learn that your extractor fan could be the culprit here – we spoke to the experts to explain why this might be and how to put a stop to this icy issue once and for all.

Can bathroom extractor fans make a room feel colder?

Many people have never considered that their extractor fan might be interfering with their bathroom heating, causing their room to feel chilly yet, according to the experts, this is a far more common problem than you might think.

"Extractor fans play an important role in controlling moisture, but if they're not correctly specified or set up then they can make a much bigger impact on heat loss than homeowners may realise," explains Ryan Marshall, director of Marshall Clean Heat and Power. "Bathrooms are usually small, highly heated spaces, so even a modest extraction rate can replace warm air with cold air very quickly – especially in colder months."

Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables, elaborates. "The fan changes how air behaves in a controlled space. When an extractor fan runs, it creates negative pressure in the bathroom. That means air has to come from somewhere to replace what’s being pulled out.

"If the door is open, it might pull warm air from the rest of the house," continues Martyn. "If the door is closed and the room is sealed, it can draw in colder air through gaps in the building envelope, such as trickle vents or even the fan duct itself if there’s no backdraught damper."

There are actually several reasons why bathroom extractor fans might end up causing more problems than they solve – we're here to reveal them.

1. Fans that are left to run for too long

Bathrooms can become steamy places meaning the temptation can be to leave your extractor fan running at full blast long after it has been used in order to dispose of all that damp, hot, muggy air – but this could be a big mistake.

"One of the most common issues we see is fans running for longer than necessary," reveals Ryan Marshall. "Long overrun times or continuous-run models can remove more warm air than your heating system can comfortably replace, which leaves the room feeling noticeably colder."

"The most common issue is fans that run constantly or stay on far longer than they need to," agrees Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco. "If the fan keeps pulling air out after the moisture has cleared, you’re just removing warm air and replacing it with cold from other parts of the house."

The solution: "Start by checking how the fan is controlled," says Michael. "If it’s wired to the light switch, think about upgrading to a humidity-sensing model. These only run when moisture levels are high and switch off when things are dry again. So you don’t lose any heat just because someone forgot to turn it off."

2. Faulty or missing backdraught damper

All extractor fans used for bathroom ventilation should be fitted with a backdraught shutter, a valve that opens when the fan is running to let stale air out but that should then automatically close when the fan is not in use.

"It’s really important that the fan has a proper backdraught shutter that seals fully when the fan is off," explains Martyn Fowler. "Without that, the duct can act as a pathway for cold air to move back into the bathroom."

"If the fan hasn’t got a working backdraught damper, or if the ducting around it isn’t sealed properly, cold air can come back in from outside," adds Michael Zohouri. "Sometimes you’ll actually feel the chill coming straight through the fan."

The solution: Take a look and check that the backdraught flap is working and sealing properly when the fan is off.

"Insulated ductwork and a good-quality non‑return valve will make a big difference by preventing cold air being pulled or blown back into the bathroom when the fan isn’t operating," says Ryan Marshall.

3. Choosing a fan that's too powerful

Choosing an extractor fan that is not specified correctly for the size of you bathroom can cause all kinds of problems, heat loss included – if it is not powerful enough it won't pull the stale air and steam out properly, but if it is too powerful you could find yourself wasting both heat and energy.

"One of the most common issues is excessive air extraction – if a fan is too powerful for the room size, it can pull warm air out faster than it’s replaced, creating a noticeable chill," explains Ruth MacEachern, product manager at ventilation specialists EnviroVent.

"Bigger isn’t always better," agrees Michael Zohouri. "If the fan is rated for a much larger room it will pull out too much air too quickly and take the heat along with the steam."

The solution: Choose an extractor fan with the correct extraction rate for your bathroom's size. Calculate its volume by multiplying it length by its width by its height (L x W x H). It is advisable to have at least four air changes per hour so you would then multiply the figure you got by four. This would give you the required extraction rate of your fan in m³/h.

Shop our favourite bathroom extractor fans

4. Bad extractor fan positioning

It is no good just sticking your extractor fan in any old position within your bathroom layout – while you might not want it ruining your bathroom design ideas, you really need to give some thought to its location if you don't want it to be the cause of post-bath shivering.

"Layout matters," states Martyn Fowler. "If the extractor is positioned directly above the shower or bath and runs for long periods, it can strip warm air very quickly and cause a noticeable drop in temperature."

The solution: "In compact bathrooms, drawing air from a higher corner or slightly away from the shower can still remove moisture effectively, but in a more controlled way," advises Martyn.

5. Speed settings are being overlooked

Running your extractor fan flat out in a quest to beat mould in the bathroom is not the best method of getting the most out of it – just another way in which it could make your bathroom feel cold.

"Fan speed plays a key role," says Martyn Fowler. "Many newer models offer variable speed settings, which makes a big difference in smaller bathrooms. Instead of running flat out all the time, the fan can operate at a lower rate for background ventilation and only ramp up when steam levels rise. That reduces how much warm air is removed and helps keep the room temperature more stable."

The solution: Choose an extractor fan with variable speeds and that responds to the moisture levels in your space.

"A humidity-controlled fan works on demand," explains Martyn Fowler. "It switches on when moisture levels rise, and switches off once the air has dried out. That means you’re removing steam when it’s needed, but you’re not continuously pulling warm air out of the room once the job is done."

6. Uninsulated fan ducting

It is crucial, if you want to maintain a comfortable temperature in your bathroom, that you check the way your extractor fan is ducted to outside. It is also really important to ensure that the ducting you use is insulated.

"Poorly sealed ducting or gaps around the fan housing can allow cold air to enter from outside," explains Ruth MacEachern.

The solution: "Make sure your ducting runs properly to an outside wall or roof vent, and that it’s insulated if it goes through a cold loft," advises Michael Zohouri. "That stops condensation forming in the duct and helps prevent cold air from being pulled in."

7. Drawing fresh air from a cold spot

Along with checking that ducting seals are intact and that insulation has been considered, do think about how the source of your fresh air could be affecting bathroom temperatures.

"When a fan pulls humid air out, it has to be replaced from somewhere else in the property," picks up Ryan Marshall. "If that 'make-up' air is being drawn from unheated areas, such as hallways, loft voids or through draught points, the temperature drop can be significant, especially in older or less airtight homes."

The solution: Along with making sure your fresh air is not coming from an unheated area, and addressing draught proofing throughout your home, Michael Zohouri has another solution.

"Keep the door closed when the fan is running," he says. "This allows the fan to draw air from under the door rather than from the rest of the house."

FAQs

Do bathrooms need extractor fans?

If you are renovating a bathroom that currently has no extractor fan, you may well be keen to avoid any extra disruption – but is an extractor fan a legal requirement?

The UK Building Regulations state that bathrooms must have some form of ventilation, although this can be provided in the form of either an extractor fan or an openable window. However, in the case of new builds, bathrooms are required to be fitted with mechanical ventilation (due to them being more airtight).

Even if you are not building a new house, it is still highly recommended to fit an extractor fan. Opening a window for prolonged periods in the depths of winter to deal with humid, stale air is impractical, plus mechanical ventilation is a great way to avoid issues with damp or mould arising.

If you have found damp in the bathroom you should not only address your ventilation methods, but also be on the lookout for leaks in pipework or behind tiles. If you can, opening windows for a few minutes every day will help too.

While the visible signs of damp are more easy to spot, if there's a whiff of something unpleasant lingering in your home, you might be wondering what damp smells like in case it's the cause of your problematic odour.

After all, even though the word 'musty' is the one we most commonly associate with damp and mould, is this the only smell it gives off or could it be a case of mistaken identity?

We asked experts what does damp smell like, why does it smell and how to identify if your offensive odour is actually being caused by damp or something else.

What does damp smell like and is it always the same?

Ask the person next to you, 'what does damp smell like?', and there's probably a common thread of replies. Eau de dog, musty, earthy, yesterday's gym bag and wet clothes are all phrases you'll probably hear bandied around.

But, is this the only smell it can give off, or are there other smells associated with damp?

"Damp generally has a musty, stale smell," says Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco. "I’d describe it as similar to that earthy scent you get if clothes are left wet in the washing machine. It tends to hang in the air and doesn’t go away with normal cleaning or air fresheners. Once you’ve smelled it, you tend to recognise it straight away," he adds.

And, while you may experience some variation in the smell, it's generally where the damp is coming from that makes the difference, not what type of damp or mould it is.

"The character and intensity of the odour vary depending on the source of moisture, such as condensation, rainwater penetration or below-ground dampness, as well as the material affected, duration of the problem and any microbial growth it may support," explains Douglas Kent, technical and research director at The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB).

"Trapped dust, organic matter and the type of surface can also subtly influence the smell, making each situation unique," he adds.

Why does damp smell?

The next point to tackle is why damp smells.

"The smell comes from mould and bacteria growing in areas where moisture has built up," explains Michael. "What you’re actually smelling is the spores and gases being released into the air as materials like plaster and fabric are being broken down.

"It also usually means the area has been damp for a while. If you can smell it, there’s a moisture problem that needs sorting."

Damp smell vs mould odour

Before you start calling in a damp specialist, it's also important to consider if the smell you are experiencing is caused by damp or mould. And, while it's easy to think that they may have the same pungent pong, you might be surprised to find that they don't.

"Mould and general dampness do not smell the same," says Douglas Kent. "While dampness is typically described as musty, earthy or slightly sour, the smell of mould is usually stronger, more pungent and often mushroom-like.

"This distinctive odour arises from volatile organic compounds produced by mould as it grows. A musty smell does not always indicate visible mould, but a stronger, mushroomy odour can signal that mould growth is already occurring – even if it isn’t yet visible – highlighting the need to identify and address the underlying moisture source," he warns.

"Black mould (Stachybotrys) is the type of mould that most homeowners will encounter," expands Michael Zohouri. "It’s the type of mould you get around uPVC windows and in bathrooms and it tends to have a slightly stronger, more sour smell. White moulds are usually milder but still give off a damp, musty scent."

"Mould growing on wood or plasterboard, however, usually smells quite sharp compared to mould growing on carpets," he adds.

Tackle mould and damp smells

Can you smell damp before you see it?

So at what point does damp smell? Is it before or after we see it appear on our walls or notice damp patches on ceilings?

"It is possible to notice dampness through smell before any visible signs appear," confirms Douglas Kent. "Even when surfaces look dry, moisture within walls, floors or ceilings can interact with materials and organic matter, releasing subtle volatile compounds into the air.

"This early odour may indicate hidden moisture or developing microbial activity that hasn’t yet caused staining, peeling or decay. Paying attention to such smells enables early investigation and intervention, potentially preventing more serious structural or health problems later."

It's why early investigation is key. But where to look?

"In terms of mould, growth tends to start behind furniture, under flooring and in other places you don’t tend to look," says Michael. "So if you can smell it and can’t immediately see the source, it’s a good idea to investigate the hidden mould hotspots that are out of sight," he suggests.

"Check the areas that are most likely to trap condensation," he continues. "Look behind any large furniture that’s up against an outside wall. These walls are colder and more prone to condensation. Look in corners, around window frames, and under units.

"If the smell is stronger upstairs it could be due to poor insulation or another issue in the loft space," he adds. "You’d be surprised how often we find bathroom extractor fans that have been vented into the loft by mistake.

"But, if you still can’t find anything obvious, it might be inside a wall or you could have mould under the floor or damp. At that point, it’s worth getting a damp survey before the problem spreads," advises Michael.

Could the damp smell be something else?

If you are sure you don't have a problem with damp, it could also be that your odour is actually caused by something else say the experts.

"Several non-dampness sources can produce smells easily mistaken for dampness," confirms Douglas Kent. "Drains can frequently smell sulfurous or rotten and are worse after water use. Blocked or wet chimneys give stale or acrid odours, especially in rain.

"Old furnishings, carpets or curtains can retain musty, dusty smells," he adds, "and modern materials like MDF, vinyl or sealants may also give off sharp, chemical odours. And don't forget that animals or insect infestations also create musky, earthy smells.

"To identify the true source, localise the smell in the building, note when it appears, ventilate the area, check surfaces and voids, and consider moisture pathways," suggests Douglas. "Real dampness usually coincides with visible signs or repeatable moisture patterns."

Managed to sniff out the location of your damp and discovered you need some extra damp proofing? Find out what you can expect to pay for damp proofing costs, and once the problem is resolved, check out the dos and don'ts for painting over damp inside your home.

Finding mould in your loft can be pretty alarming, especially if this is a space you rely on to store precious belongings or items such as Christmas decorations or out of season clothing – things you really don't want to pull out and find covered in the stuff.

While there are plenty of mould removal tricks you can employ to deal with the issue in the short term, it is really important to discover the root of the problem if you want to ensure it doesn't become a recurring issue that could, eventually, lead to serious damage, not just to the items you keep up there, but also to the structure of your home.

The good news is that there are steps you can take to resolve mould in the loft and, with the help of some top experts in the field, we're here to to explain exactly what they are.

Why does mould appear in lofts?

It might be reassuring to know that mould in lofts is actually quite common, caused by a number of things, although there tends to be one main culprit: poor loft ventilation.

"In most cases, warm, humid air from the living areas below rises and enters the loft through gaps in the ceiling, around the light fittings or through poorly sealed hatches" explains HVAC and ventilation expert David Miloshev from Fantastic Services. "When that warm air meets the colder surfaces of the roof timbers or underlay, the moisture condenses, creating the perfect environment for mould spores to thrive.

"Insufficient ventilation is a key factor," continues David. "If the loft lacks adequate air movement from soffit, eaves or ridge vents, the moisture becomes trapped and remains in contact with those cold surfaces for long periods."

"Mould in lofts is nearly always caused by trapped moisture and poor ventilation," agrees Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco. "Warm, moist air from bathrooms and kitchens rises into the loft. If there’s nowhere for that air to escape, it condenses on cold surfaces such as roof timbers and insulation. It's much more noticeable in the winter because the loft is cold and the temperature difference increases condensation. It creates the perfect environment for mould to grow."

Why do some homes suffer from mould in the loft more than others?

Not all homeowners experience the problem of mould in their loft. This is not just down to them having better home ventilation measures in place. In some cases, the way in which people live in their homes can exacerbate the problem.

"In some homes, the issue is made worse by bathroom extractor fans or tumble dryer vents discharging moist air directly into the loft instead of outside," reveals David Miloshev. "Poor insulation, or insulation that’s been pushed right up to the eaves can also restrict airflow and exacerbate the problem."

How can you prevent mould in the loft?

Thankfully there are preventative measures you can take to put a stop to mould forming in your loft.

"Preventing mould in loft spaces requires controlling the moisture levels and ensuring proper ventilation throughout the area," explains David Miloshev. "The first step is to stop warm, humid air from the living spaces below from entering the loft. This can be achieved by sealing any gaps around the light fittings, ceiling hatches and any service penetrations, and ensuring loft and roof insulation is correctly installed without blocking airflow from soffit or eaves vents.

"Ventilation itself is critical," continues David. "Soffit vents, ridge vents or additional roof vents should allow a continuous flow of air that carries moisture out of the loft. Any appliances that produce moisture, such as bathroom extractor fans or tumble dryers, should be correctly ducted to the outside instead of discharging into the loft.

"It’s also important to maintain a temperature in the loft that minimises condensation," adds David. "This can be supported by ensuring insulation is adequate but not obstructing airflow. Finally, regular inspections are also useful. Checking for blocked vents, signs of leaks or condensation buildup for early intervention before mould can establish itself."

What should you do if you find mould in your loft?

If you have noticed any mould in your loft, what should you first steps be?

"First you need to stop the source of moisture," says Michael Zohouri. "That might be a ventilation issue, a leaking roof tile, or an extractor fan that’s not vented properly. Once the area is dry and the airflow is working as it should, you can treat the mould."

"If you find mould in a loft, the first step is to identify and address the underlying cause instead of just removing the visible growth," picks up David Miloshev. "Start by inspecting the space for sources of moisture, such as roof leaks, blocked or inadequate ventilation or warm, humid air escaping from the rooms below. Once the source is identified, it should be corrected. Repair any leaks, unblock or install proper ventilation and make sure to look into how to insulate a loft correctly to allow airflow.

How do you remove mould in a loft?

Of course even once you have found the cause of your mould and put measures in place to prevent it from returning, you still need investigate how to remove mould from walls and the space in general once it has taken up residence.

"If the mould is only in a small area and caught early, you can clean it yourself," says Michael Zohouri. "White vinegar works well as a natural mould remover. Spray it directly onto the surface, leave it for an hour, then scrub with a cloth and wipe the area dry. There are also specialist mould treatments available from DIY shops if you prefer a ready-made solution. Always wear gloves and a mask while cleaning, and avoid dry brushing as that can release mould spores into the air."

"Large or persistent infestations will require professional remediation, particularly if the mould has penetrated the insulation or roof timbers," advises David Miloshev. "After cleaning, monitor the loft over time to make sure that moisture levels are controlled and the ventilation is functioning correctly. Failure to fix the source of the problem will almost always result in the mould returning."

Shop mould removal essentials

FAQs

Is mould in the loft dangerous?

Mould can pose a serious health risk if left untreated in a home, particularly if any of the residents suffer from skin or respiratory problems. But how about when it is up in the loft?

"Mould in lofts can be hazardous, although the level of risk depends on the type of mould, the extent of the infestation and the exposure of occupants," explains David Miloshev. "Many loft moulds release spores into the air, which can enter the living spaces through gaps or ventilation, potentially causing allergic reactions, respiratory irritation or exacerbating conditions such as asthma. Prolonged exposure to certain types of mould, particularly black mould, can be more serious and can lead to persistent respiratory issues, skin irritation or other health problems.

"The affected structural materials themselves are usually not immediately in danger, but mould can weaken timber over time if left untreated, especially if it’s combined with ongoing moisture issues," continues David. "The primary concern is controlling the moisture and preventing the spores from spreading into the home. Anyone cleaning mould should take precautions with protective equipment to minimise inhalation or contact."

If you have found mould in your loft you might be wondering where else in your home it might be lurking. Our guide on hidden mould hotspots is a must-read to ensure you're not missing anything.

Damp in basements is a common problem in many households, but that doesn’t mean it should be ignored. Most often found in older houses, it is caused by poor drainage, high humidity levels and moisture seeping through cracks in the structure.

While severe cases of damp require professional intervention to ensure they are correctly treated, there are several things you can do yourself to help get rid of the damp.

To learn about the causes to avoid, the signs to watch out for, and how to eliminate damp from your basement, keep reading – we’ve asked the experts for their top advice.

How to get rid of damp in basements

1. Address the cause
Before you try to remedy the problem, Rob Girling, Owner of HGS Plumbing and Heating, says you need to find out what's causing it, such as checking for leaks in pipework or heating systems.

2. Improve drainage outside
Look into your drainage and decide if it needs improving, advises Ben Snape, a damp expert at IntelOptic. A poor system will cause rainwater to collect outside your home or in the soil around your foundation, which can seep into the basement.

3. Improve ventilation
By ensuring your basement has sufficient ventilation, you’ll help keep humidity levels normal and discourage moisture from forming. Opening windows, installing trickle vents, or using an extractor fan are all steps in the right direction.

4. Use a dehumidifier
One of the easiest ways to reduce moisture in the air is by using one of the best dehumidifiers, and it’s something that both Rob and Ben would recommend. If your basement is below 1°C, you’ll want to choose a desiccant model, which can withstand cold temperatures without your dehumidifier freezing up.

5. Seal any cracks
Rob says, "Any cracks should be sealed, and where water is regularly pushing through, it may be that you need something called tanking. This is a specialised waterproof membrane or coating applied to walls and floors to stop water getting in."

6. Keep gutters clear
By keeping your gutters clear and free of debris, you prevent water from overflowing and running down the walls, where it can soak into the foundation and increase the risk of damp in your basement.

Our top shopping picks to prevent basement damp

Signs of damp in basement

If you're unsure whether you have damp in your basement, watch out for these tell-tale signs:

• Mouldy, musty smells
• Staining on your walls
• Peeling paint and bubbling wallpaper
• Warped flooring
• Condensation and damp spots
• Visible mould and mildew
• Rotting wood
• Rusty metal
• Cardboard boxes that feel damp and soft
• Furniture that feels damp

What causes damp in basements?

"The main reason that basements are prone to damp is that they sit below the ground," explains Ben Snape. "Naturally, this means they’re surrounded by soil, which almost always holds moisture. If that moisture finds a way through, either through a small crack in the wall or floor or because rainwater has built up around the foundations, it can seep inside."

Rob Girling adds that high humidity levels inside the house can also contribute to the problem, which is why using a dehumidifier (such as this VonHaus dehumidifier from Amazon) can be beneficial.

Should I worry about damp in my basement?

Damp in a basement shouldn't be left untreated. Rob Girling says it can not only indicate a bigger issue with drainage or waterproofing, but also lead to mould growth and musty smells that no one wants lingering in their home.

Ben Snape adds, "Damp can also affect the structure of the building, weakening timbers or masonry and even cause damage to anything near it. The damp can travel outside of the basement into upper floors, which is another reason that early attention and action are crucial."

House issues aside, mould can cause serious health problems – such as hypersensitivity pneumonitis – and can trigger allergic, respiratory, immune, and inflammatory reactions.

The longer you leave damp in a basement, the harder it becomes to rectify, so it’s best to treat it as soon as possible. By following the steps above, you'll be on your way to resolving the problem.

To learn more about this common household issue, read our explainer on what causes damp and how to treat damp in general.

If you're struggling with damp and condensation, most experts will advise you to invest in one of the best dehumidifiers, which tackle the problem at its root.

These appliances work wonders at removing excess moisture from the air, but they do have one downfall: they can get very expensive if you're looking for one that's any good. So, when I saw that the Kalorik 12L Dehumidifier is on sale for less than £100 on QVC this morning, I knew I couldn't gatekeep.

For reference, this model is usually £150, so you'd be getting a substantial £50 discount. I'm not sure how long this deal will stick around, so if I were in the market for a new dehumidifier, I'd be snapping it up quickly.

I appreciate that even on sale, £99 is still a lot of money to fork out, but I wouldn't recommend this if it wasn't going to be worth it. Using a dehumidifier can save you money in the long run – whether as a more energy-efficient way to dry your laundry or by reducing condensation damage to your structure and belongings.

Laura Crombie, QVC presenter and homes expert confirms, "This dehumidifier is an absolute steal at this price. It's super compact, quiet, and efficient. It wouldn't be right for huge spaces, but for reducing dampness and condensation in an average-sized room, it's perfect."

One of the coolest features is the three-colour light, which lets you monitor your home's conditions at a quick glance. It also has a digital display where you can check whether your humidity levels are normal, helping you maintain the perfect environment.

The Kalorik Dehumidifier has three settings: Auto (it starts working when humidity is higher than 3%), Dryer (works continuously with adjustable wind speed), or Sleep (the indicators gradually dim and wind speed is low) – giving you total control depending on how you want to use it.

As a handy safety feature, the device will automatically shut off when the water tank is full. There is also an auto-defrost mode to stop your dehumidifier from freezing up, as well as a child-lock function.

If you don't fancy splashing out on a dehumidifier for every room, you'll be happy to hear that this model features wheels, making it easy to glide from your living room to your kitchen as needed.

I don't know about you, but before I buy anything, I always check the reviews, and I saw that this dehumidifier has a five-star rating on QVC. Reviewers have been praising its portability, ease of use and how effectively it collects moisture from the air.

Since it's a compressor, this machine works optimally in temperatures from 5°C to 35°C, so if you're looking to put one in a chilly room like a basement or garage, this isn't going to be your best buy. Instead, you'll need a desiccant dehumidifier that works well in cold rooms.

Other dehumidifiers we recommend

If the Kalorik dehumidifier isn't quite what you're looking for, here are some other picks recommended by the Homebuilding team.

When you compare the Kalorik Dehumidifier to other similar models on the market, £99 is a bargain you’re unlikely to find cheaper elsewhere. With all the features you could possibly need for an average-sized room, it’s a deal I would jump on.

If you want to do more research before making your decision, I recommend learning the difference between a compressor and a desiccant dehumidifier, as well as how dehumidifiers work.

It's no surprise that damp in bathrooms is a common issue. But where does it most commonly appear and what can you do to avoid major problems?

Building expert, Ian Rock explains the three main weak spots in your bathroom so you can make sure you're doing all you can to prevent damp from taking over.

While good bathroom ventilation is an essential, it won't necessarily fix everything. So here's how to make sure damp in bathrooms doesn't turn your bathroom into an unwanted wet room.

Three weak spots that can cause damp in bathrooms

There are no prizes for guessing which room in a typical home is most likely to harbour unpleasant damp smells. Bathrooms have multiple weak points that can wreak havoc over time.

But, with walls often covered with bathroom tiles, unlike other rooms, where most ‘damp problems’ are initially spotted as distinctive brown staining that appears on internal plasterwork, sometimes accompanied by a smattering of white salts or patches of mould, damp in bathrooms can be a little harder to identify.

However, when you understand where to look, it can be easy to spot damp in bathrooms, so make sure you are regularly checking these areas to ensure the only damp in your bathrooms are the people stepping out of the shower or bath.

1. Siliconed areas

Mastic seals around the edges of baths and showers are prime candidates for allowing water to seep through, and shower trays are notorious for springing leaks.

Make sure you always use the best bathroom sealants and if you spot any signs of decay or damage, it's time to learn how to remove and replace it.

If your bathroom ventilation isn't doing the best job, it's likely you'll need to do this on a regular basis as it's also one of the key locations where mould in bathrooms appears.

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2. Hairline cracks

Almost invisible to the eye, it may surprise you just how much hairline cracks in your bathroom wall tiles can cause. While they may not immediately problematic, hairline cracks in the grouting to bathroom wall tiles combined with power showers are a classic recipe for damp.

Even a small but consistent amount of water from other types of showers, or a build up of condensation over time can cause damage. So, make sure you regularly inspect your grouting for cracks and gaps. Learn how to re-grout your tiles, or if your DIY skills aren't up to the job, call on an expert to get you a watertight finish.

3. Dodgy pipework

As well as tiles covering damp problems on bathroom walls, fitted bathrooms with concealed cisterns, wall mounted vanity units and all the bathroom plumbing hidden out of sight may look good, but can equally conceal damp in bathrooms right beneath our eyes.

Everyone knows someone who's discovered the hidden horrors of DIY pipework, where small leaks remain hidden over time until timber decay has taken hold resulting in suspiciously soft and springy floors.

If you're renovating a bathroom, make sure your plumber checks all the joints are tight, secure and sealed where required. Regularly check under sinks for hidden leaks, and keep an eye on the area around the base of your shower tray and toilet.

And don't forget your bathroom heating too. It's easy to mistake water on the bathroom floor as drips from inhabitants using the shower or bath. But, always check your radiator valves for any sign of damp or wetness too.

Preventing damp in bathrooms

Much like the rest of the home, whether it's condensation in lofts or on internal walls, while leaks and dodgy plumbing can be the root of some cases of damp, one of the main culprits is people like us: innocent occupants unwittingly emitting large amounts of humidity in hermetically sealed modern homes.

The enemy in this scenario is condensation caused by moisture-laden warm air hitting cold surfaces (where relative humidity at wall surfaces is greater than 80%).

Picture a WC cistern in a hot, steamy bathroom, its surface dripping with beads of moisture. Worse, condensation on cold surfaces can start to attract patches of black speckled mould, which in time can potentially contribute to occupants’ lung-health issues.

Window and door reveals are especially prone to ‘cold-bridging’ making them vulnerable to attracting mould. To help prevent this problem, cold surfaces can be lined with a suitable type of insulation, and humid air expelled by fitting the best bathroom extractor fans, such as the Eintax Quiet Bathroom Extractor Fan from Amazon.

Ventilation can also be improved by making sure you have trickle vents on your bathroom windows. Ensure natural ventilation airflow in your bathroom is given priority too, by adding house burping – the act of opening your windows for a short period of time in the mornings – part of your daily routine.

One final note of warning, while you may be eyeing up your dehumidifier, wondering if you can use a dehumidifier in your bathroom to help remove moisture, the answer is you can't.

Instead, place it outside the bathroom door where it can draw out the humidity in that way. Not sure which model to buy? Check out our guide to the best dehumidifiers and select the one that best meets your needs.

If your home has high humidity levels, you might be hosting a family of booklice without even realising it. These tiny insects thrive in warm, damp conditions, feeding on mould and mildew that commonly form on cardboard, wallpaper and books.

The fastest way to tackle the problem is by investing in one of the best dehumidifiers, which remove excess moisture from the air and help prevent further mould, dampness and condensation from forming.

To find out how to banish these critters for good, we consulted three pest control experts for their top tips. Below, you’ll discover the most effective methods for eliminating them from your home, as well as the causes to prevent and the signs to watch for.

How to get rid of booklice

1. Reduce the humidity levels
I’ve spoken with three pest control experts, and they all recommend one thing: reducing the humidity levels in your home. You can do this by using a dehumidifier and fixing any leaks, as well as checking your kitchen and bathroom extractor fans are working properly.

Make sure your home has sufficient airflow by keeping furniture slightly away from your walls and opening windows – this will prevent moisture from building up and mould from forming (which booklice love to feed on).

To ensure your home maintains normal humidity levels, you can buy a hygrometer that displays the percentage.

2. Wipe down affected areas
As well as managing the moisture levels, you'll also want to thoroughly wipe down the affected areas with a mild cleaning solution, according to Deepak Shukla, CEO of PL Pest Control.

3. Throw away mouldy, damp objects
If you have mouldy, damp objects lying around your home – such as cardboard boxes or books – make sure you throw them away immediately.

Darren Backhouse, Partner at MJ Backhouse Pest Control, says, “Most infestations can be dealt with within a few weeks once the moisture levels are controlled.”

Prevent booklice with these expert-approved products

What are booklice?

Booklice (also known as psocids) are tiny insects that thrive in warm, moist and mouldy conditions. According to Deepak Shukla, they appear in homes when there is damp and excess humidity, which allows microscopic mould spores to grow on surfaces such as books, cardboard and wallpaper paste.

Tony King, pest control expert at The Pied Piper adds, "Though their name might suggest otherwise, they are not actually lice and do not digest books in the way most people think.

"They are most likely to be found in places where their favourite foods are present: mould, mildew and microscopic fungi that grow on paper, cardboard, stored food or moist walls. Their size is extremely small, usually one millimetre or less, so they often go unnoticed by homeowners until they gather in groups."

What are the signs of booklice?

If you've noticed tiny, translucent bugs in humid areas of your house, chances are they are booklice. Deepak Shukla recommends checking behind your kitchen appliances, around shower frames and inside cupboards that don’t get much ventilation, as these are common places for these pests to gather.

He says, "When I first saw them years ago, I honestly thought it was dandruff moving on its own, which was mildly horrifying. You’ll also see them clustering near mould spots or damp cardboard. If you see tiny insects disappearing into cracks when the light hits them, that’s usually your clue."

Are booklice harmful to humans?

No, booklice aren’t harmful to humans. Tony King explains that while they won’t bite, sting or transmit any diseases, they do indicate excess moisture and mould, “which is the real problem people should tackle.”

Mould can cause long-term conditions such as hypersensitivity pneumonitis and trigger allergic, respiratory, immune and inflammatory reactions, which is why mould removal is so important for your well-being.

To conclude, booklice aren't going to do you any harm, but they do signal a humidity issue that needs to be addressed. By following the steps above and taking preventative measures, like ensuring your home has proper ventilation, they’re relatively easy to remove.

If you’re struggling with other pests, our guides on how to kill silverfish or how to get rid of dust mites might also be helpful.

I've always opted for larger dehumidifier models when choosing units to review for this magazine, simply because I don't live in an apartment and have always assumed something more substantial is needed to make a difference to the humidity levels in my small cottage in East Anglia.

So when I was sent this tiny MeacoDry Arete One 6L Compact dehumidifier quite by chance when the larger dehumidifier I was meant to review sold out, I wasn't expecting much. But after putting this machine, which is only 40cm high, through its paces, I found myself questioning my previous assumptions about the best dehumidifiers.

Rarely do I come across a product that impresses me so much as this compact machine, which is pitched as a dehumidifier best suited to be used on a room-by-room basis. Here's why.

Unboxing the 'half-size' dehumidifier

This 6L dehumidifier is nearly half the size of its parent dehumidifier; the MeacoDry Arete One 25L dehumidifier, meaning when the box arrived, it was much smaller and lighter, making it less difficult to handle.

The packaging opened with no problems at the top, and the operating instructions were positioned as the first thing you saw. These were useful and easy to follow, reminding first-time dehumidifier users to ensure the dehumidifier had rested for at least six hours before switching on.

I did find it a bit of effort easing the dehumidifier out of the box as there were no handles on the side of the machine as I expected. But after I removed the plastic bag, I discovered the handle cleverly tucked into the top of the unit. Not helpful for the initial removal, but fantastic for everyday use and portability.

In terms of parts, there were two sets of instructions (full manual and a quick start guide) and the dehumidifier to unbox, plus a free HEPA filter affixed to the machine. Overall, I found the unboxing experience very easy and simple.

First impressions of the MeacoDry Arete One 6L

I've only used larger dehumidifiers before, so I didn't really know what to expect from this much smaller size dehumidifier unit. I've always found the larger units very good and the larger tank a huge benefit.

However, once this smaller "half-size" unit was unpacked, I was immediately impressed by its size and look rather than finding it at all inferior as I was expecting. Being smaller, it was less dominant in the room, meaning it was far less noticeable.

Once I'd worked out how to pull up the handle, it dawned on me how much more portable this dehumidifier was compared to the larger models. Typically, with larger models, I've ended up avoiding moving them too much as it's a bit of a faff lugging it up and down stairs, especially if there is any water in the tank. But this smaller unit lifts up to transport so easily, without being at all heavy, I can imagine moving it fairly regularly from room to room, depending on where it might be needed.

The design is also pretty slick. My model was the "charcoal" one, which is nice because all the areas where dirt and grime might accumulate (the rear air filter area and the top where you press the buttons) are darker meaning unsightly marks are disguised.

How I tested the dehumidifier

When testing the MeacoDry Arete One 6L Compact dehumidifier, I wanted to find out the answer to the following questions:

• Was it easy to operate?
• Was it effective in laundry mode?
• How quiet was it?
• How effective was it as an air purifier?
• How energy efficient and affordable is it?

I decided to test the small dehumidifier in three different settings in my home. First on a damp spot in the bathroom, second for drying laundry in the utility room, and lastly in a bedroom with single pane windows while sleeping.

Ease of operating the 6L dehumidifier

Turning the dehumidifier on for the first time was easy. All I needed to do was put it in the room I wanted to target, plug it in and press the "on" button.

I started off testing in the bathroom, where we had installed a glass shower panel during renovations rather than a shower enclosure. The glass panel hadn't been as effective as hoped, meaning spray from the shower regularly finds itself on the wooden skirting board, wall and limestone tiles outside the tray, causing a minor damp issue.

While an annoying problem, it was a good test for the half-size dehumidifier to see if it could make a difference by bringing down the humidity in the room.

The initial start-up

After positioning the dehumidifier in the bathroom and pushing down on the "on" button, the unit started dehumidifying the air without needing to press any of the other three buttons. The screen also lit up and helpfully gave me a room humidity reading of 65% on the screen, with a target humidity level of 55% already set automatically. Overall, I found the ease of initial start-up fantastic and unfaultable.

Setting the target humidity level

The quick start manual took me as far as turning the machine on, so it was time to take a deeper dive into the fuller instruction booklet to have a play around with adjusting the target humidity level.

I discovered this was achieved by pressing the water drop button either once for setting a "smart" target humidity of 55% or repeatedly pressing to scroll through target humidity options from 40% through to 70%. There was also a "CO" option available to set the dehumidifier to continuous.

A droplet with two arrows pointing upward shows on the screen when the dehumidifier is in dehumidifying mode. I found this moderately easy to operate, but definitely needed the instruction manual to understand how to do it.

Overall, I found the ease of operating the MeacoDry Arete One 6L Compact dehumidifier excellent. Despite needing the instruction manual to find my way around in the first instance, it was easy to remember how to make the adjustments after that.

In terms of how effective the dehumidifier was on the damp in the bathroom, it dropped the humidity down to a sensible level of 55% with ease when left in there overnight. I was impressed this tiny dehumidifier managed it, without the tank becoming full before the target level was reached.

Using the dehumidifier in laundry mode

After testing the dehumidifier in the bathroom, I moved it into the utility room to see if the dehumidifier would help speed up drying the handwashing on my drying rack. There is also a degree of humidity in this room anyway as I regularly have the washing machine, tumble dryer and handwashing sinks in action at the same time.

Setting laundry mode was fairly self explanatory for anyone that has used a dehumidifier before, it was the button with the T-shirt on it. Pressing this button once, set the target humidity level to 35% with a high fan speed, and the dehumidifier automatically switched itself off after six hours meaning it could be left on overnight without fear of sucking up too much humidity and wasting energy unnecessarily. A quick look at the instruction manual revealed that you can check how many hours are left on the timer by pressing the T-shirt button twice.

One thing I really loved was that I could easily lift and position the dehumidifier on the worktop. We don't have a large amount of floor space in our utility room, and it is a bit of a walk-through area, so being able to do this was incredibly useful.

Placing the dehumidifier on the worktop also gave me the chance to test its continuous drainage function and I quickly found that while a spout was included, tucked cleverly away in the water tank, it was a bit disappointing that there wasn't a hose pipe included with the unit. When I fixed the spout to the correct outlet, it wasn't long enough to drain straight into the sink. As a result, without a handy piece of hose, I had to abandon testing this and stick to using the water tank.

Overall, the dehumidifier surprised me at how effective it was in laundry mode, arguably just as effective as a larger model. I left the unit for the full six hours and found my clothing nicely dried afterwards – saving me the hassle of dealing with any nasty damp smells and needing to do any rewashing.

Noise levels when using the dehumidifier at night

After testing the dehumidifier in both the bathroom and laundry room, I was confident about sleeping in the same room as this small unit. The MeacoDry Arete One 6L Compact dehumidifier had already proven itself to be extremely quiet when running, as low as only 32 decibels (the quietest Arete One dehumidifier), even with the full fan speed turned on in laundry mode.

Even so, I dutifully switched the unit to "night mode" to avoid any chance of the dehumidifier being loud by pressing the half moon button, to trigger a slower, quieter fan speed and the screen lights to turn off. This would create optimal sleeping conditions so I could wake up the next morning with no condensation on the single pane windows in the room without it being disruptive in the night.

A quick check over of the guide showed that the humidity level could still be checked while the screen light was off by pressing the half moon button once. There was also a child lock mode (indicated with a padlock) set by holding this half moon button down for two seconds.

The next morning, I woke to condensation-free windows after an undisturbed sleep so it got a resounding thumbs up. There was certainly no need for a more powerful machine in my double-sized bedroom.

Using the dehumidifier as an air purifier

I didn't actually realise this dehumidifier was also an air purifier at first, but it turns out, air purifying happens automatically while dehumidifying if a HEPA filter is fitted.

A read of the instructions highlighted that this clever little unit can also be used exclusively as an air purifier on its own. Is that actually useful? Well, yes because in times when there might be low humidity, like the summer, you might want air purifying in your room to ease allergies without having to run the dehumidifier simultaneously.

Air purifying mode was selected using the same water drop button but holding it down for two seconds to select "AP" mode. This was easy once I'd read up on how to do it, but in all honesty I probably wouldn't have worked it out without doing that.

You can confirm the dehumidifier is in air purifier mode by checking the icon with the arrow pointing right with a line cutting through it, is visible on the screen. Overall, I found this function most useful at night to avoid waking up stuffy. I always find air purifiers difficult to test conclusively, but can confirm I had a comfortable night's sleep with it switched on.

Affordability of the MeacoDry Arete One 6L

The energy efficiency of this 6L unit is something to really shout about at only 101 watts, compared to 151 watts for the 12L model and 267 watts for the 25L model. This gave it a 3p per hour cost based on 26.35p/kWh energy pricing. There is also an argument that by targeting a home room-by-room, this can also keep down the running time of the dehumidifier, thus lowering dehumidifier running costs.

Affordability of the unit however was where I was initially a little disappointed. With an almost half-size model, I naturally expected a half-size price tag. Yet this 6L model was priced at £129.99 on the Meaco website, while the larger 12L version was £179.99 on the Meaco website in comparison; only a £50 difference. However, the larger 25L version was a larger jump up in price at £299.99 on the Meaco website.

But on further reflection, you could argue that a smaller dehumidifier should actually command a higher price tag if it performs the same job, with the same performance, while taking up less space. Certainly this can be true when it comes to other technology such as computers.

So is my initial disappointment over the price justified? Absolutely not when you take all this into account. Its smaller stature ended up being a huge benefit rather than a hindrance. I was able to move the unit far more easily from one room to the next, potentially saving on needing to buy a second unit, and it packed away easily into a kitchen cupboard when not in use. The MeacoDry Arete One 6L Compact dehumidifier was also much quieter and economical than a larger dehumidifier so all-in-all it is being sold at a hugely competitive price point.

Shop MeacoDry Arete One 6L dehumidifier

Final thoughts

It goes without saying that I definitely recommend the MeacoDry Arete One 6L Compact dehumidifier. It is not only excellently priced, it is highly portable (more of a plus than I realised before testing), yet also highly effective despite its tiny size.

And for that reason, I would snap up one of these small dehumidifiers, before it too is sold out like the other Meaco dehumidifier I was meant to review.

If you are looking to alleviate damp or stop mould in a garage, colder outbuilding or campervan or caravan with a power source, you would be much better opting for a desiccant dehumidifier specially designed to handle lower temperatures and this kind of environment.

You can read up on my review of the EcoAir DD2 desiccant dehumidifier, which I highly recommend, or if you prefer sticking to the Meaco brand, you can hold on for my review of the Meaco DD8L Pro Desiccant Dehumidifier in January when it is back in stock on the Meaco website.

Living in a damp Victorian home, with a lounge right next to a downstairs bathroom, I had almost given up on ever having a dry, comfortable space.

I had tried cheap moisture absorbers that barely made a dent in the problem, but then I got the Duux Bora dehumidifier.

It quickly showed why it’s the best dehumidifier for managing heavy moisture, keeping the air fresh and the room comfortable in ways I hadn’t experienced before.

Intelligent moisture control with integrated hygrostat

The standout feature of the Duux Bora dehumidifier is its combination of powerful water absorption, integrated hygrostat, and efficient R290 refrigerant technology, which removes moisture effectively while being environmentally friendly.

My lounge regularly reached 70–80% humidity, well above the government's Housing Health and Safety Rating System's recommended 40–60%, and the Duux Bora dehumidifier reduced my humidity levels to below 60%.

Its 20L extraction capacity (although it also comes in 12L and 30L options) also ensures it can remove large amounts of moisture efficiently, while the hygrostat adjusts the operation so the room stays perfectly balanced without the need for me to constantly monitor it.

Laundry-drying mode & practical design

The laundry-drying mode is fantastic for drying robes and towels straight from the shower, preventing them from staying damp for hours.

The Duux Bora dehumidifier also comes with a continuous drain hose, allowing for uninterrupted operation during heavy moisture periods.

On top of that, the smooth rollers make it easy to move the unit from room to room whenever needed, adding convenience and flexibility to its high-capacity performance.

Low-maintenance filtration

Because the lounge sits next to a bathroom, odours and damp smells used to linger. The carbon filter in the Duux Bora dehumidifier freshens the air as it removes moisture, leaving the room cleaner and healthier.

Maintenance is simple: cleaning the Duux Bora dehumidifier is easy thanks to its smooth design, plus I only need to wash the filter every two weeks, and it only needs replacing once a year.

I tend to empty the 4L tank every morning if it’s been left running overnight, and then once again during the day. But the Duux Bora dehumidifier also includes a drainage hose, so I can run it into a sink or larger container for continuous draining, which saves me from having to empty the tank as often.

Smart app control & Indoor Climate View

The new Duux app allows me to operate the Duux Bora dehumidifier from anywhere in the world, set up to seven schedules, and track indoor air quality over time.

The Indoor Climate View shows real-time humidity levels in each room where the unit is used, based on readings collected whenever I move it.

The Duux Bora dehumidifier also integrates with Google Assistant and Amazon Alexa, making it easy to adjust settings remotely or hands-free.

Is the Duux Bora dehumidifier worth it?

The Duux Bora dehumidifier has been a game-changer for my damp Victorian lounge, but it’s worth noting other dehumidifiers can offer different advantages.

The Meaco 20L Low Energy dehumidifier includes a HEPA filter that captures dust and mould spores, providing stronger air-purifying performance than the Duux Bora dehumidifier.

The ProBreeze 20L Premium dehumidifier shares features with the Duux Bora dehumidifier, including a 20 L tank, laundry mode, and continuous drain hose, but it is noted for slightly lower running costs when compared at the highest settings.

While these models have their strengths, the Duux Bora dehumidifier stands out for its smart hygrostat, app control, sleek design, portability, and overall convenience.

If you see any signs you might need a dehumidifier then don't hesitate like I did and get the best all-round solution for comfort, moisture control, and healthier air whilst it's still on offer.

Lidl is selling the Black+Decker 12L Smart Dehumidifier for under £80 in its middle aisle, and I doubt it will stick around for very long.

As someone who writes about the best dehumidifiers for a living, I know just how expensive they can get, and I’ve never come across this model so cheap before. In fact, after doing a little digging, I discovered that it’s actually £33 cheaper than on Amazon!

Capable of collecting up to 12L of water a day with four different settings (auto, continuous, dry clothes faster, and ventilation), this is an excellent piece of kit to have in your home. It can help tackle problems like damp, mould and condensation at the root cause, while also being a cheaper alternative to a tumble dryer.

After taking a deeper dive into the specs, the Black+Decker 12L Smart Dehumidifier is an absolute bargain.

Although full details about it can be found in the manual which is available online, one of my favourite features is the LED display, which shows the current humidity and lets you set your desired level between 30% and 80%. It can also be connected to the Black+Decker Home App, allowing you to control the dehumidifier via your phone, Amazon Alexa, or Google Home smart device.

The 2.1L water tank is a decent size, and you won’t need to worry about it overflowing, as the unit automatically shuts off when it gets too full. It also features built-in frost protection to prevent the dehumidifier freezing, as well as a child lock and a 24-hour timer shut-off for safety. And, if you have any problems, you can visit the Black+Decker website help page.

Winter energy costs have soared this year, so I was pleased to see that this unit only costs 9p per day to run (based on an electricity rate of £0.34 per kWh). So, if you’re tired of paying extortionate rates to dry your laundry in the tumble dryer, this dehumidifier could save the day and help you cut back. Yes, it will take much longer, but it will slash your bills.

Sometimes I’m skeptical when deals are this cheap, but I was reassured to see that this device comes with a two-year warranty, with a 4.1 star rating on Amazon.

If you're not local to a Lidl (or don’t fancy leaving your house in these freezing temperatures), the ELECCI 12L/Day Dehumidifier is a great alternative and is available for next-day delivery on Amazon Prime.

Just like the Black+Decker model, according to the manual, it can collect 12L of water per day and offers four settings: Standard (manually set your desired humidity level), Raining (maintains RH45%), Drying (continuously dries your room), and Sleep (operates at less than 45dB with RH50%).

There’s an LED display so you can monitor whether the humidity levels are normal, a timer setting feature, and it automatically shuts down when the tank is full. As you can see, there are a lot of similarities between these units, and the ELECCI model also costs under £80, making it very affordable for what you’re getting.

Lidl's middle aisle deals don’t tend to stick around for long – usually up to seven days or until stock sells out – so I wouldn’t wait too long before jumping on this one. However, if you do miss it, the ELECCI unit is an excellent alternative, with the added benefit of free next-day delivery for Prime members.

If you want to learn more before making your purchase, check out our feature on how dehumidifiers work and how many dehumidifiers you should have in your home.

If you’ve ever battled a damp corner or caught a whiff of musty air in your home, you’ll know just how stubborn mould can be. It’s a problem that thrives in cool, humid climates and one that many homeowners hope an air purifier can solve. But do air purifiers help with mould, really?

While air purifiers promise cleaner, healthier air, their ability to help with mould will depend on what’s actually causing the issue in the first place. Mould spores are tiny, airborne particles, and the right purifier can indeed trap and reduce them. But no gadget, however advanced, can replace the basics: tackling damp, improving ventilation, and keeping humidity under control.

So before you rush out to buy one, we’ve asked air quality experts to break down what air purifiers can – and can’t – do when it comes to mould in a house.

Do air purifiers help with mould spores?

Although mould appears like a surface problem, it starts in the air. Tiny spores drift around our homes all the time, waiting for a patch of damp or condensation to cling to, which is precisely why an air purifier can be a helpful tool in its prevention.

"Indoor air is a complex mix of particles from dust and pollen to mould spores, bacteria and pet dander. Breathing in this fine dust or PM2.5 (also known as fine particulate matter) can penetrate deep into the lungs and cause irritation in the eyes, skin, nose, throat and lungs,” explains Lars Dunberger, head of technology at Blueair. “Even if you have no underlying health issues, improved air quality is conducive to better productivity and a general sense of wellbeing.”

“The best air purifiers trap these microscopic particles – including mould spores – in the HEPA (High-Efficiency Particulate Air) filter," adds Chris Michael, CEO of Meaco. While HEPA filters don’t kill mould spores, they can stop them from recirculating through the air, making a noticeable difference to allergy symptoms and overall home air quality.

Just don’t forget to replace your filters regularly. As Chris warns, “Mould spores remain live inside the filter, which is why old HEPA filters should be disposed of in the waste system rather than recycled.”

Some air purifier models use more advanced technology to go a step further. Dr Dhau, VP of R&D at Molekule, explains that while HEPA is excellent for trapping particles, newer systems are designed to destroy them entirely:

“HEPA filters capture up to 99.97% of airborne particles as small as 0.3 microns, including mould spores," he says. "However, advanced purification technologies, such as PECO, destroy mould spores and other organic pollutants at a molecular level rather than simply trapping them.”

Other options include UV-C light, which can neutralise airborne spores by damaging their DNA, and activated carbon filters, which absorb odours and pollutants that often accompany damp conditions.

The verdict: Most air purifiers can make your home’s air feel noticeably fresher and cleaner, but only certain models are capable of destroying mould spores entirely. They work best as part of a wider mould prevention strategy that includes good ventilation and moisture control.

Shop the latest air purifier technology

Do air purifiers help with mould related allergies?

For anyone sensitive to mould, even a small amount of airborne spores can trigger sneezing, coughing, or itchy eyes. Air purifiers can help ease these symptoms by cleaning the air before those particles have a chance to circulate.

“Where the homeowner is allergic to mould spores and their allergy is being triggered, using a HEPA filter to capture the mould spores can ease their symptoms,” explains Chris Michael.

Dr Dhau agrees, adding that the difference is often most noticeable in homes where damp is difficult to manage: “Homeowners may notice a significant benefit in environments where humidity, ventilation, or climate make mould growth more likely,” he says. “Air purifiers can help reduce airborne mould spores and limit their spread, improving indoor air quality and potentially reducing allergy symptoms.”

The verdict: For households where mould-related allergies are a recurring issue, using an air purifier alongside proper ventilation and moisture control can make day-to-day living far more comfortable.

How do air purifiers fit into a wider mould prevention strategy?

If you want to stop mould for good, you need to go beyond what you can see. Scrubbing away the black spots or running an air purifier might make things look better temporarily, but unless you tackle the root cause of damp, it will find its way back, and often in the same hidden mould hotspots.

As Chris Michael explains, “Air purifiers cannot deal with the actual cause of damp, the mould growth or the underlying problem. They can only help to capture the mould spores that are in the air and prevent them from circulating.”

To make a real difference, combine your air purifier with one of the best dehumidifiers for your space. While the air purifier will improve the quality of the air you breathe, a dehumidifier will draw out excess moisture and help maintain normal house humidity levels. This will make your home far less inviting for mould and helps protect surfaces where damp damage often appears.

As Lars Dunberger notes, “The most effective mould prevention is to limit moisture levels – keeping humidity below 50% – and to maintain a well-ventilated environment. Some of the biggest culprits for excess moisture are air conditioning units, poorly ventilated bathrooms and even refrigerators.” He also recommends running extraction fans in kitchens and bathrooms to reduce moisture and condensation.

When mould takes hold in your home, it can be stubborn to shift. Explore our expert guides on testing for mould, how to get rid of mould in bathrooms, removing black mould from silicone sealant, and how to tackle mould on ceilings to banish it for good.

While I'm all for the aesthetics of a neat and tidy home, it's easy to fall into the trap of surrounding yourself with more of everything, particularly during the winter months. Blankets, cushions, books for reading by the fire and overflowing wardrobes stuffed with woolly jumpers are all part of our semi-hibernation mode.

But, and there's a big but. With winter weather comes the increased risk of condensation, damp and mould as the colder temperatures outside create the perfect atmosphere for moisture laden surfaces inside.

The more you have piled up, the more chance there is of moisture building up without you realising. We asked the experts where the worst clutter hotspots are and how to make sure your love for cosy corners doesn't cause problems.

How decluttering helps with damp and mould

One of the key tools in reducing the humidity in your home, high levels of which can lead to mould and damp, is ensuring there is sufficient airflow. This means the more stuff you have, the more the piles of clutter turn into a barrier to air moving around your home.

So, even if you perform house burping every day, the reality is the moisture will seep into your belongings, and if there's no obvious gaps, there's no room for air to flow. Before you know it, the moisture will take over and the unwanted presence of mould spores will start appearing.

“Decluttering helps combat damp by allowing your home to breathe,” confirms Max Wilson, co-founder of Pocket Storage. “Removing excess items improves air circulation, which prevents moisture from settling."

How to declutter to reduce the risk of mould and damp

Of course, the added problem is that certain rooms and areas in our home are natural depositories for our belongings. Wardrobes, boot rooms, utility rooms and so forth all have a valuable purpose in your homes.

But, even in these spaces less is more, so where and how can you declutter and organise your home is such a way that you avoid creating hidden hotspots for mould and damp?

1. Declutter your bedroom and the contents of your bedroom storage

Although it's easy to associate mould with bathrooms and kitchens where moisture laden air is more common, even with the best home ventilation methods in place, the reality is, mould in bedrooms is also an issue and one we need to avoid.

“Under beds, behind wardrobes and inside cabinets are prime spots for trapped moisture. These calm, stagnant spaces create the perfect environment for condensation and mildew," says Max Wilson.

"Old clothes, bedding and soft furnishings all trap damp air, particularly if they’re tightly packed into wardrobes or pushed under the bed," confirms Georgina Shepherd, cleaning expert at Housekeep.com.

"Avoid overfilling drawers and cupboards in general," she notes. "Packed spaces limit airflow and can trap moisture. Make sure you’re decluttering these regularly to keep the air moving."

Personally, I start the autumn months by sorting through clothes and items that I haven't ended up wearing or using in the summer before I even think of getting my winter woolies out.

Those items you do want to put away until it's warm again? "Use sealed storage boxes,” recommends Max. "And, if you wash clothes before storing them away for winter, make sure the items are full dry before you pack them up," recommends Georgina. Any slight level of dampness will linger once it's tightly packed away.

Make sure you also have enough space in between items that you leave in your wardrobe and consider adding wardrobe moisture absorbers. And finally, make sure air can move around the bedroom too. "Furniture should be slightly offset from walls and the tops of storage units kept clear to encourage airflow,” says Max.

Shop these items to help manage moisture

2. Make sure your boot, utility room and hallway aren't a haven for humidity

Wet wellies, soggy winter coats, damp furry pets and laundry left out to dry are all common in homes during the winter, but as well as being unsightly, they are also impacting the air you breathe.

"Shoes, particularly damp ones, are silent culprits for trapped moisture," confirms Max Wilson. "Overcrowded shoe racks can encourage mildew and musty odours. Declutter shoes you don’t wear often, let wet footwear air out and use breathable storage rather than sealed plastic boxes."

Take the same approach with outdoor coats in boot rooms or hallways. Make sure you have somewhere ventilated to dry them when they get wet, and don't let too many pile up on hooks where there is limited airflow and opportunity for them to dry.

And, on the subject of drying, if you do have to dry laundry inside, make sure you use the best dehumidifier for drying laundry such as the DeLonghi DEX212F 12L Tasciugo AriaDry Dehumidifier which I personally tested to great success. In the winter I use it in conjunction with the Dry-Soon Deluxe 3 Tier Heated Air Drier from Lakeland, to speed up the process.

3. Don't let papers, books and magazines build up

Whether you're a bedtime reader or a magazine by the fire kind of person, having piles of books close to walls or on the floor in any room may well give your home a country cottage vibe, but isn't always the best idea.

"Paper and cardboard are usually the biggest culprits when it comes to damp," says Georgina. "They absorb moisture easily, so aoid stacking paper or cardboard against walls, as they can soak up moisture and encourage mould growth on the surface behind them."

In living rooms for example, if there isn't a direct heat source such as a nearby log burner to dry them out, the damp will build up and your once treasured tomes will quickly turn into humidity filled horror stories.

Consider installing book storage ideas for the ones you simply can't part with, and if you opt for freestanding shelving over fitted, make sure there's a small gap between the wall and furniture to allow air to circulate – a rule which stands for all freestanding furniture within your home.

If you also have a home office and need to store paperwork, "store important documents in folders and get recycling out as soon as possible," says Georgina. And, stick to the minimum house temperature to avoid mould and damp for a clean and healthy workspace.

4. Regularly declutter your bathroom cabinet

While out of sight out of mind is an easy trap to fall into, in winter it's one you must avoid if you want to keep on top of your home's moisture levels. While you may have the best bathroom extractor fan working feverishly every time you shower or bath, the chances are you also have a bathroom mirror with lights and storage, and vanity units with drawers or shelves.

"In the bathroom, too many bottles, baskets or towels can absolutely trap condensation," confirms Georgina, meaning it's time to get rid of those samples and half used travel sized toiletries that are cluttering up the shelves inside.

"Also try to keep bathroom surfaces clear and avoid storing items directly on windowsills or around the bath or shower," advises Georgina. "Air out bath and shower loofahs and accessories after use, and avoid leaving them in damp corners where they can stay wet."

Try not to store too many towels in your bathroom as well. Make sure damp ones can be dried using a heated towel rail or bathroom radiator, and keep clean, dry ones in a linen or airing cupboard, rather than the bathroom itself.

Georgina's final advice for bathrooms, "don't forget moisture can spread beyond your bathroom, too, so keep an eye on hallways or spaces just outside bathrooms where condensation can linger (e.g. after a shower) and make sure you haven't got clutter in your corridors or on landings.

"Avoid storing clothes or laundry directly outside your bathroom, for example," she adds, "where moisture levels are highest."

Discovered mould while decluttering? Follow this expert advice for removing mould from walls and make sure you also check these other hidden mould hot spots as part of your efforts to keep the moisture levels in your home as low as they can be this winter.

Condensation can be a nuisance in the winter, and if left unchecked, it can develop into more serious problems, such as mould growth, property damage, and health issues.

While the best dehumidifiers are an obvious solution, many come with a hefty price tag, so it’s no surprise that people look for more affordable alternatives – or ones they already have in their cupboards – like a cooling fan, for example.

To find out whether this could work, or if it will simply spread the moisture around the window, I chatted with some air quality experts to hear their thoughts and tested it myself in my condensation-prone kitchen. Keep reading to find out what happened.

Can you get rid of condensation with a cooling fan?

Since my kitchen windows steam up almost every day in winter, I was eager to try this condensation hack after seeing it online. The next time I noticed the windows had misted up, I grabbed my trusty fan and placed it next to the glass – and, to my delight, the condensation quickly began to evaporate.

However, after speaking with Chris Michael, founder of Meaco, it seemed there was more going on than met the eye, and this wasn't a quick fix to my problem.

"A cooling fan won’t remove condensation," he explains. "You need a dehumidifier to extract moisture (water vapour) from the air."

It turns out that all a cooling fan will do is move the condensation around your window, rather than tackling the root cause of the issue (which is excess moisture in the air). If I wanted to stop window condensation from forming, using a dehumidifier or extractor fan would be a better solution.

In fact, if you live in a house with mould problems, you might make the situation worse – spreading the spores around your room. The best way to solve condensation is by ensuring your home has sufficient ventilation, controlling the humidity to a normal level, upgrading your insulation, and considering positive input ventilation.

The surface may appear to dry faster, but this doesn’t reduce the total moisture in the air. Instead, the moisture will simply redistribute elsewhere in the room, potentially settling on other surfaces and leaving you in the same situation you started with.

Laura Bradbury, Head of eCommerce at Vonhaus, adds, “Fans don’t remove moisture, but they can help reduce condensation when used alongside a dehumidifier or with proper ventilation. A fan with a strong airflow, such as a tower or pedestal fan, can help circulate air around windows and walls where condensation tends to build up. The goal is to keep the air moving and reduce cold spots where moisture collects.”

Michael tells me that there is one other thing a cooling fan could be handy with – and that's drying your laundry. "When used in conjunction with a dehumidifier, it can dry laundry in half the time without adding any real cost. This means that clothes can be dried in under two hours."

Our top dehumidifier picks

After testing this condensation hack on my windows, I hope it will save you from wasting time – or worse, making the problem bigger than it already is!

If you're struggling with condensation on your toilet cisterns, we've put together a helpful guide on how to deal with it and prevent it from happening in the first place. Or, if you're interested in finding the best extractor fans, our team of experts has rounded up their top picks.

We know dehumidifiers are great for tackling damp and condensation, but do they help with allergies? If you struggle with sensitivities at home, you might be wondering whether these machines can make a difference – and if they’re worth the investment.

Since most indoor allergens thrive in humid environments, the best dehumidifiers can significantly reduce symptoms by limiting common triggers such as mould and dust mites. They also help prevent dampness, which can irritate the airways.

Below, experts explain everything you need to know about using a dehumidifier for allergies – from whether sleeping with one can be beneficial to which sensitivities they can help with, as well as why high humidity levels can be so triggering.

Do dehumidifiers help with allergies?

Yes, dehumidifiers can help with allergies, according to Dr. Stephanie Kayode, Allergy Physician at Allergy Care London.

If your home has excessively damp air, you're likely to have high amounts of mould spores, bacteria, and dust mites which can be inhaled – triggering immune responses, infections, and allergic reactions.

Dr. Kayode says, "This is why high-humidity environments are linked to asthma flares, chronic cough, bronchitis, allergies, and increased respiratory infections."

To find out whether you have normal humidity levels, you can buy a hygrometer (like this one from Amazon) to monitor your home. Dr. Kayode recommends keeping the environment in the range of 40 to 60%. If you’ve noticed your levels are too high, it’s well worth investing in a dehumidifier to help bring them down.

She says, "In this range, damp, mould and dust mites are controlled, mucosal barrier defences are not impacted, and the lungs and skin function better. Since we spend most of our time indoors, breathing in higher concentrations of airborne allergens increases the likelihood of developing allergy symptoms, such as asthma, wheezing, chest tightness, coughing, runny nose, nasal congestion, sneezing, watery eyes and itchy eyes."

Which allergies can a dehumidifier help with?

Dehumidifiers can be especially beneficial for people with mould and dust mite allergies.

Dr. Hussain Ahmad, Consultant Practitioner at Click2Pharmacy, explains: "Dust mites need humidity above 40 to 50% to survive, so reducing moisture in your home makes it harder for them to thrive. Mould spores also love damp conditions, which is pretty common in UK homes unfortunately."

What is better for allergies: humidifier or dehumidifier?

By contrast, humidifiers add moisture to the air, which can help ease irritation and inflammation caused by allergies. So, are humidifiers or dehumidifiers better for relieving allergy symptoms?

Since damp air is a more common problem than dry air in the UK, Dr. Hussain Ahmad says that dehumidifiers are generally the better option. In fact, a humidifier can even worsen reactions to dust mites and mould.

He explains, "The only time a humidifier might help is if someone's got very dry nasal passages from over-heated homes, but that's less common. Get a cheap hygrometer and measure your humidity."

Does sleeping with a dehumidifier help allergies?

If your bedroom is damp or you have dust mite allergies, sleeping with a dehumidifier in the room can be helpful, says Dr. Hussain Ahmad. He explains that since we spend so much time in our bedrooms and bedding harbours dust mites, these spaces can be major problem areas.

Other ways to reduce allergies at home

Looking for other ways to reduce your allergy symptoms at home? Here's what Dr. Stephanie Kayode recommends:

1. Use an air purifier: Air purifiers with HEPA filters can reduce allergen concentrations by around 65% to 90%.

2. Consider airflow: Your air purifier will be more effective at reducing allergens if there are higher airflow rates in your home.

3. Cleaning: By vacuuming regularly, you will reduce exposure to dust and animal allergens that can trigger your symptoms. Don't forget to damp-wipe your surfaces and remove unnecessary soft toys and furnishings, which build up dust over time.

Dr. Hussain Ahmad concludes, "Make sure you clean your dehumidifier properly and empty it regularly, or you'll end up with mould growing in the unit itself, which defeats the purpose."

If you're torn about which machine is best for relieving your allergies, read our comparison of air purifiers vs dehumidifiers, which weighs the pros and cons of both devices.

Have you noticed your dehumidifier freezing up? If so, this isn’t something you should ignore, as it could indicate a problem with your device or that it's placed in an unsuitable environment that needs to be addressed.

A frozen unit has to work much harder to filter your air, which can cause it to overheat or burn out – potentially leading to a broken dehumidifier. Since it won’t be able to remove moisture from the air effectively, you’ll also waste energy and still have excess humidity in your room, so it’s best to get the problem sorted as soon as possible.

To learn why your dehumidifier is freezing up, keep reading. Our experts explain two common causes of this issue, what you can do to prevent it from icing up in the first place, and how to fix it if it happens.

Why is my dehumidifier freezing up?

There are two common reasons why your dehumidifier might be freezing up:

1. You've chosen the wrong dehumidifier
If you’re using a compressor dehumidifier in temperatures below 15°C, it’s highly likely to freeze up. Since this model uses a refrigerant, it will enter defrost mode if the coils get too cold – just like a fridge.

It will also spend more time defrosting than dehumidifying the air, reducing efficiency and wasting energy. Prolonged freezing could also damage your unit, which is why it’s important to choose a dehumidifier designed for cold rooms.

Katie Lilywhite, Category Buyer at AO says, “Most compressor dehumidifiers will struggle when the air temperature dips below 15°C as the moisture can freeze on the coils instead of dripping into its water tank."

2. There's poor airflow
Dehumidifiers can also freeze up due to poor airflow, such as a vent that’s blocked with dust or debris, or if the unit is placed too close to a wall or object. That's one of the reasons it's so important to regularly clean your dehumidifier.

When airflow is restricted, the coils don’t get enough warm air passing over them, making them colder than they should be and leading to a build-up of cold spots and ice. This ice can further restrict airflow, worsening the situation and reducing the unit’s efficiency.

How do I stop my dehumidifier from icing up?

To stop your dehumidifier from icing up in the first place, Katie Lilywhite says that choosing the right model is key. If you plan to use it in a cold room, such as an unheated garage or basement, then a desiccant dehumidifier is your best bet, as compressor models don’t work well in low temperatures.

To ensure your unit gets enough air circulation, move it away from walls and furniture to give it plenty of space to breathe.

Regularly cleaning your dehumidifier is another way to prevent restricted airflow, as Katie previously explained. Not only will this stop ice from forming, but proper maintenance will also extend the lifespan of your unit, improve its efficiency, and prevent mould and bacteria from developing inside.

Laura Bradbury, Head of eCommerce at Vonhaus, adds, "Many models have an automatic defrost setting that pauses operation until the ice melts, so the unit can get back to work safely without damage.”

How to fix a frozen dehumidifier

If you've noticed a little bit of frost on your dehumidifier, Laura Bradbury reassures that it will usually clear within 15 to 30 minutes, and most modern devices can manage this automatically. “Once the ice has melted, they’ll switch themselves back on and carry on as normal.”

However, if this isn’t the case, Viktor Velikov, Director at Elserve, recommends the following:

1. Turn your dehumidifier off
2. Let it fully defrost before switching it back on
3. Make sure the filter is clean as blocked air flow can cause icing
4. Ensure the room temperature stays above 15°C.

By choosing the right model for your home's temperature and following proper dehumidifier maintenance, you can prevent your unit from freezing up and causing serious damage.

However, if you've noticed other problems with your device – like unusual noises – and think it might be nearing the end of its life, it's worth learning how long dehumidifiers typically last to see if you're due for an upgrade.

As the weather gets colder and temperatures start to drop in your home, you might wonder which dehumidifier is best for cold rooms. These units are incredibly handy for removing dampness and condensation, but not all are designed for the same conditions – and you’ll face problems if you choose unwisely.

When selecting the best dehumidifier for your needs, it’s important to consider where you’ll be placing it to ensure it operates properly. While some models thrive in chilly conditions, others may freeze up, stop collecting water, or shut down completely to prevent damage.

Below, we’ve asked the experts which dehumidifier is best for cold rooms, why certain models don’t perform as well in these environments, and their top tips for using your machine during the winter season.

What is the best dehumidifier for a cold room?

Desiccant dehumidifiers are best for cold rooms, according to Chris Michael, Founder of Meaco. So, for rooms that rarely exceed 10°C, like a cold conservatory, utility room, garage, boat, or caravan, this is the model for you.

If you take a look at how dehumidifiers work, desiccant models use a moisture-absorbing material to capture water vapor. Since they don't rely on a cooling process (as compressor models do), they won't freeze up or cause related problems if they're in the cold.

Desiccant models also have the added bonus of extra warmth. "The air generated by a desiccant dehumidifier is 10-12°C warmer than room temperature, so this extra heat can be a welcome way to keep a room a little cosier," explains Chris. "Naturally creating this extra warmth has a cost, so it’s recommended weighing up whether this benefit offers you the best value for money for your needs."

Laura Bradbury, Head of eCommerce at Vonhaus, recommends finding a dehumidifier with a dedicated low-temperature or frost-protection setting, as these are made to work well in colder climates.

Why don't compressor dehumidifiers work in the cold?

You might think that desiccant and compressor dehumidifiers work in the same way, but that's not the case.

"Compressor units run on a refrigerant," explains Chris. "So, just like a fridge, if they get too cold, they go into defrost. While this is not a bad thing, and the units will do this cycle from time to time, you don’t want to spend your money on a machine that will defrost more than it will dehumidify."

To get the most out of your compressor dehumidifier, place it in a room where the temperature is 15°C or higher.

Do you need to use a dehumidifier differently during the winter?

Should you use your dehumidifier differently during the winter? The answer is yes, according to Laura Bradbury.

She explains, "In winter, rooms are often cooler and have less airflow, so it helps to move your dehumidifier to the areas where moisture builds up, such as near windows or laundry spaces. Closing doors and windows helps it work faster, and running it for longer periods can make up for the colder air."

Now that you know which dehumidifier is best for cold rooms, you can prevent your unit from freezing up, wasting electricity – or worse, malfunctioning and shutting down completely, which is one of the most common dehumidifier mistakes.

If you're wondering whether the colder seasons affect how much you'll pay to run your machine, read our explainer on dehumidifier running costs, which breaks it down.

Are dehumidifiers loud? If you plan to use one in your bedroom while you sleep or spend a lot of time at home, you’ll probably be asking yourself this question before buying one.

The best dehumidifiers are a lifesaver when it comes to removing dampness and condensation, but since they often run for long periods throughout the day, you might be wondering whether the noise will be bothersome.

To find out if dehumidifiers are loud and what you can do to reduce the sound, we asked the experts for their advice – plus, whether a noisy device indicates an issue and how to make them run even quieter so they don't become a problem.

Are dehumidifiers loud?

“While no dehumidifier, or indeed appliance, is ever truly silent, some models can come impressively close," explains Katie Lilywhite, Category Buyer at AO.

You can expect a dehumidifier to run between 35 decibels (similar to the sound of a whisper) and 50 decibels (comparable to the volume of a normal conversation). So, when choosing your device, try to opt for one with the lowest number possible.

If you plan to put your dehumidifier in your bedroom, Katie recommends choosing a model below 40 decibels to avoid disrupting your sleep – some even feature a special 'night' or 'quiet' setting that reduces fan speed. For example, the MeacoDry ABC 12L, which our Assistant Editor Sarah tested, features a sleep mode.

It's worth bearing in mind that desiccant dehumidifiers are usually the quietest, as they don’t have a compressor that produces a lot of noise.

Our favourite quiet dehumidifiers

How to make a dehumidifier quieter

While you won’t be able to make your dehumidifier run more quietly than it was designed to, there are a few ways to help it operate more efficiently – and therefore reduce noise.

Here's what Katie Lilywhite recommends:

1. Set your model to the quietest setting
2. Place it on a level surface to prevent extra vibrations
3. Position it away from walls and furniture to give it enough room to breathe
4. Clean your dehumidifier regularly to prevent dust build-up in the fan
5. Clean or replace the filter regularly
6. Vacuum the air intake vent

Why is my dehumidifier making a loud sound?

Every dehumidifier is bound to make some noise, but if you’ve noticed a change in volume, it could signal a problem.

Viktor Velikov, Director at Elserve, says, "Dehumidifiers make some noise by design. The compressor and fan both generate sound as they pull moisture from the air. But if yours has become noticeably louder or makes rattling, grinding, or humming noises, something’s off."

If you suspect your dehumidifier is broken, Viktor recommends unplugging it, cleaning the air filter, tightening any loose screws, and removing dust or debris around the fan. It might be worth finding out how long dehumidifiers typically last to see if yours is past the expiry date.

He adds, "However, if the noise still continues after this, the problem may be with the fan motor or bearings, which usually calls for professional repair or replacement."

While choosing a quiet model is your best bet, there are a few additional steps you can take to help reduce noise, like keeping up with regular dehumidifier maintenance.

To keep yours running smoothly and prevent noise-related issues, make sure to avoid these common dehumidifier mistakes too.

If you're prone to allergic reactions or asthma symptoms, you might be wondering how to get rid of dust mites. These seemingly harmless microscopic creatures don't bite or spread disease, but their waste and body fragments can trigger reactions in sensitive people.

Dust mites feed on dead skin flakes from humans and animals, making our mattresses, bedding and carpets the perfect places for them to live. They thrive in humid conditions and reproduce quickly, so it's important to keep humidity levels below 50%.

Just like their distant cousins – the spider and the tick – there are several things you can do to get rid of them, such as regular cleaning and using natural deterrents. To discover the best ways to banish them and spot the signs of an infestation, we asked pest control experts for their advice.

How to get rid of dust mites

1. Regular cleaning
To deter dust mites, make sure you're washing your bedding, sheets, pillowcases, and duvet covers once a week in hot water, advises Daniel Steward, Managing Director at Shield Pest Control.

If a hot wash isn’t possible, he recommends tumble drying on high heat for around 10 to 15 minutes. You'll also want to vacuum your mattresses, carpets and upholstery weekly, as well as steam-clean your soft furnishings.

2. Use protective covers
Your bed is one of the most popular spots for dust mites, so Daniel suggests protecting your pillows and mattress with a dust mite-proof cover (like the one below).

“Reduce the number of soft surfaces where mites can live – swap out heavy curtains for washable blinds, limit plush toys, and avoid wall-to-wall carpeting in bedrooms if possible," he adds. "Keeping your space simple makes cleaning easier and more effective.”

3. Keep the air cool and dry
Since dust mites thrive in warm, humid environments, try to keep the air as cool and dry as possible in your home. Daniel recommends maintaining temperatures below 21°C and humidity levels under 50%, which the best dehumidifier can help you to achieve.

4. Try natural treatments
In addition to the steps above, you can try a natural treatment such as sprinkling a mixture of baking soda and a few drops of essential oil on your mattress or carpet. Let it sit for an hour, then vacuum it up.

Top products to deter dust mites

What smell repels dust mites?

Using strong-smelling natural oils (like these essential oils from Amazon) is another great way to repel dust mites. Daniel Steward recommends tea tree, eucalyptus, lavender, clove, peppermint, and lemongrass.

Here’s how to apply them in your home:

1. Mix a few drops of essential oil with water or white vinegar in a spray bottle
2. Lightly mist your mattress, bedding, carpets, curtains and upholstery
3. Add a few drops of oil to your laundry when washing bedding in hot water
4. Let everything dry completely before use

How do you know if you have dust mites?

1. Skin irritation
Have you noticed mild rashes, itching, or eczema flare-ups? According to Daniel Steward, this could be a sign of dust mites – especially if your skin improves when you’re away from home. You might also see small red bumps or irritated patches on your face, neck, or arms.

2. Environmental clues
We can’t see dust mites with the naked eye, but you can look for signs in your home, such as dust buildup on furniture or musty-smelling bedding.

3. Allergy symptoms
If dust mites are present in your home, you might experience symptoms such as sneezing, a runny or stuffy nose, itchy or watery eyes, coughing, or wheezing. Daniel notes that these symptoms are usually worse at night or in the morning.

Where do dust mites live?

Dust mites are commonly found in bedding, mattresses, upholstered furniture and carpets, according to Tony King, pest control expert at The Pied Piper. He explains that pillows are the worst offenders, as they trap warmth and moisture from our breath and skin.

He says, "Studies indicate that a pillow's weight can escalate by as much as 10% after two years of usage, due to the presence of dust mites and their waste."

Dust mites are found in nearly all homes in the UK, and around one in five adults and one in twenty children are allergic to them, according to the NHS. However, by following the steps above, you can help reduce these symptoms.

For more pest control advice, check out our tips on how to get rid of silverfish – another unwanted creature that thrives in humid conditions.

How long do dehumidifiers last? If you own one of these moisture-busting machines, you've probably asked this question. Dehumidifiers can be expensive, so it's worth knowing when yours might reach the end and what you can do to make it run longer.

Just like any other appliance in your home, even the best dehumidifiers have an inevitable lifespan. However, there are steps you can take to help them run efficiently for longer – whether it’s using auto mode initially to prevent motor strain or thoroughly drying the unit after cleaning to prevent mould build-up.

Below, we explain how long dehumidifiers typically last (spoiler: there’s a difference between compressor and desiccant models) – plus expert advice on how to prevent them from burning out prematurely.

How long do dehumidifiers last?

Provided you treat them with proper care and follow standard dehumidifier maintenance advice, dehumidifiers can last between five and 10 years, according to Katie Lilywhite, a dehumidifier expert at AO.

However, it's worth bearing in mind that desiccant dehumidifiers can wear out faster than compressor models, as their absorbent material degrades over time. The lifespan also depends on the quality of your device, how you store it and how often you use it.

How to extend your dehumidifier's lifespan

1. Go easy after summer
If your dehumidifier has been sitting in a cupboard all summer, you'll want to go easy the first time you use it again. Rather than blasting it on maximum power, Katie Lilywhite recommends running it on gentle auto mode first. This will prevent straining the motor, causing wear and tear that could shorten its lifespan.

She adds, “You’ll also need to give it a little bit of TLC. Clean the dehumidifier's filter, as dust can build up in storage, and similarly, wipe down the exterior to prevent any further dust from hindering your appliance. Now’s the perfect time to check your dehumidifier’s water tank – give it a once-over and make sure it’s dry and mould-free.”

2. Keep the windows closed
If you keep the windows open while using your dehumidifier, not only are you increasing the dehumidifier's running costs, but you’re also forcing your unit to work much harder – which can eventually shorten its lifespan.

Katie explains that your dehumidifier will be constantly battling against fresh, damp air being blown in, which can have “detrimental effects” on the compressor, fan and motor (as well as your bank account!)

3. Store your dehumidifier correctly
If you’re not planning to use your dehumidifier for a while, it’s important to store it properly to prevent any damage. Laura Bradbury, Head of eCommerce at VonHaus, recommends emptying and drying the water tank, cleaning or replacing the filter, and wiping down the exterior before packing it away.

She adds, "Store it somewhere cool, dry and out of direct sunlight – a cupboard or utility room is ideal. Avoid garages or sheds, as damp conditions can damage the internal parts over time."

How do I know when to replace my dehumidifier?

Wondering whether it’s time to repair or replace your dehumidifier? Here are some signs it might be broken:

1. It fails to lower humidity
   If your unit runs continuously but fails to reduce humidity, this usually signals a problem with the compressor or refrigerant, explains Viktor Velikov, director at Elserve. "The appliance may seem to operate normally, yet moisture is not being removed because refrigerant pressure has dropped or the compressor valves are worn," he says. "These faults cause the system to overwork while performance steadily falls, showing that failure is imminent."
2. Reduced airflow or uneven cooling across the coils
   Reduced airflow or uneven cooling is another indication that your dehumidifier may be on its way out. If that's the case, Viktor recommends stopping operation, cleaning or replacing the filters, and having a professional inspect it. "Prompt maintenance restores efficiency and prevents the compressor from burning out – avoiding a complete breakdown and higher repair costs," he says.
3. It makes unusual noises
   If your dehumidifier is making peculiar sounds – like rattling, humming or buzzing – it could be a sign that it’s about to expire or that there’s an issue that needs to be resolved.
4. It has a musty smell
   A musty smell could be a sign of mould or mildew building up inside, which is why regular cleaning is essential.

Will running a dehumidifier all day damage it?

As long as you keep your dehumidifier well-maintained, it won’t be damaged by running it for long periods, assures Laura Bradbury, Head of eCommerce at VonHaus.

However, she advises that eight to twelve hours per day is usually enough for most homes (depending on humidity levels), and that short bursts often work better than running it all day long.

As long as you take good care of your unit, there's no reason a high-quality model shouldn't last between five and ten years. By avoiding common dehumidifier mistakes, you can help it last even longer without needing early repairs or replacement.

There are plenty of benefits to having a dehumidifier in your home – from preventing mould and mildew to improving overall air quality. With all these advantages, you might think it’s a good idea to collect as many as possible to maximise the effects – but can you actually have too many dehumidifiers?

According to experts, the answer is yes. While the benefits of the best dehumidifiers are undeniable, it is possible to have too much of a good thing. If you use more than you need, your indoor air could become overly dry, leading to damage in your home and irritation to your body.

To get to the bottom of how many dehumidifiers is too many and how it could impact your home and health, we spoke with experts.

Can you have too many dehumidifiers?

Yes, you can have too many dehumidifiers – most homes only need one per problem area.

"You might use one in a damp basement, another in a condensation-prone bedroom, or a utility room where you use a dehumidifier to dry clothes," explains Laura Bradbury, Head of eCommerce at Vonhaus."Even in a large home, two or three units is usually enough. Capacity matters more than quantity; a higher-capacity unit can often cover several rooms.”

How can too many dehumidifiers affect your home?

It's widely accepted that excess humidity can wreak havoc on your home – warping wooden furniture and floors and creating the perfect environment for mould and mildew to thrive. However, having too many dehumidifiers can be bad news too.

"When indoor air becomes overly dry, it can start to affect natural materials like wood and paper," explains Michael Zohouri, Founder of Pyramid Eco. "You might see wooden floors and furnishings start to shrink or crack, and any books and paperwork could become brittle. Your houseplants will also suffer as they need moisture in the air."

Is this the same for both compressor and desiccant dehumidifiers? According to Michael, the answer is no. While desiccant models continue extracting moisture even when the air is already dry, compressors are generally self-limiting and become less efficient as the air dries out or cools down, which helps prevent overuse.

While it's not common for UK homes to become too dry (especially during the colder months), Michael confirms that it is possible, and running more units than necessary can cause problems. This is particularly true for smaller, well-sealed homes.

As a rule of thumb, Michael says to avoid letting humidity drop below 40%, which the ProBreeze 20L Premium Dehumidifier allows you to monitor via its display.

How can too many dehumidifiers affect your health?

We now know that having too many dehumidifiers can potentially cause issues for our home, but what about our health?

"Using multiple dehumidifiers in the same home can dry the air too much. Our airways need a bit of moisture in the air so that they can trap dust, allergens, and germs," explains Dr. Praveen Bhatia, NHS Respiratory Consultant.

"Very dry air irritates your airways, nose, eyes and skin, and will worsen breathing rather than helping. This is especially true if you suffer from asthma – dry air can trigger flare-ups because the airways become more sensitive."

What matters most is keeping the humidity balanced, which you can do by monitoring the environment with a humidity monitor (also known as a hygrometer) and aiming for a sweet spot of 40 to 50%. Some dehumidifiers may display this information automatically.

If your whole home is damp, Dr. Bhatia notes that it might be useful to have one unit per affected area, but usually one or two units are sufficient to stay in the normal humidity range.

FAQs

Can having too many dehumidifiers damage the units?

While it won't do your dehumidifiers any damage by having too many, it certainly isn't efficient and can make your air uncomfortably dry, explains Laura Bradbury, Head of Ecommerce at Vonhaus.

She says: "It’s better to choose the right capacity for the space. That way you protect your home, your comfort, and your energy bills.”

Although there's no one-size-fits-all solution, choosing the right size dehumidifer for its intended use and space is the best place to start when making your product selection.

How much exposure should I have to a dehumidifier?

If humidity levels drop below 40%, the air can feel harsh and uncomfortable. Dr. Praveen Bhatia, NHS Respiratory Consultant, recommends running your unit for a few hours a day or setting it to stop automatically once the desired humidity level has been reached.

As we’ve learned, it’s definitely possible to have too many dehumidifiers, but that doesn’t mean we need to get rid of them altogether. They’re incredibly useful for preventing mould and mildew and for alleviating allergy and asthma symptoms – having them in excess is just one of the common dehumidifier mistakes.

As Laura Bradbury says, “The trick is balance – remove excess moisture without stripping the air completely.”

As a final point, remember that cleaning a dehumidifier is also essential to ensure it runs as efficiently as possible.

Dehumidifiers are brilliant for keeping damp and mould at bay, but while they’re great at managing humidity levels, they could be quietly working against your houseplants.

Most indoor greenery prefers a little moisture in the air, and when humidity levels drop too low, plants can start to show the strain. Crispy leaf tips, yellowing foliage and slow growth are all signs that your leafy companions may be feeling the effects of dry air.

Thankfully, you don’t need to choose between fresh, healthy air and thriving greenery. With advice from horticultural experts, we’ll explore how dehumidifiers affect houseplants and the simple steps you can take to keep your home humidity levels in check while ensuring your collection continues to flourish.

What do dehumidifiers do and why does this matter for plants?

Dehumidifiers work by pulling moisture out of the air to reduce humidity levels in your home. That’s excellent news if you’re trying to prevent damp patches on walls, reduce condensation on windows or cut down the risk of mould spores spreading.

But the problem is that most houseplants rely on a certain level of air moisture to stay healthy. While humans are comfortable with indoor humidity between 30% and 50%, many plants – particularly those that originate from tropical or woodland environments – prefer things a little higher.

When the air becomes too dry, they can lose water from their leaves faster than their roots can replace it, leading to stress and visible damage.

How could dehumidifiers harm your houseplants?

According to Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture, most houseplants don’t respond well when humidity levels get too low:

“Most houseplants do not like the air to be too dry, and some can suffer more than others if humidity levels are low," he explains. "However, this will depend on the settings of the dehumidifier and how much it is decreasing the level of humidity in the room, as a setting designed to dry laundry faster will lower humidity much more than the standard settings.”

According to Angelika Zaber, horticultural expert at Online Turf, the signs that your plants are suffering from low humidity can be quite easy to spot:

• Brown and crispy leaf tips and edges.
• Wilting or drooping foliage.
• Leaves that feel dry to the touch.
• Yellowing patches across the plant.
• Stunted or slow growth.

All of these issues stem from the same problem – the plant is losing water through transpiration faster than it can take it up, leaving it dehydrated and stressed.

Richard Barker notes that, “Plants that are most sensitive to dehumidifiers are those that would normally thrive in high humidity environments or naturally grow in tropical areas, including peace lilies, ferns, calatheas (prayer plants), orchids and English ivy.”

By contrast, hardier plants like succulents, cacti, or snake plants are more tolerant of drier conditions and less likely to show distress.

How to balance healthy air for people and plants

The key to keeping both your home and your houseplants happy is balance. Appliances like dehumidifiers and humidifiers can make a big difference to indoor air quality, but it’s worth understanding how they interact with your greenery. Here are some practical ways to keep both people and plants comfortable:

Consider your dehumidifier settings

Laundry-drying modes on dehumidifiers can strip moisture from the air quickly, so it’s better to use gentler, everyday settings if plants are nearby. Some appliances, such as The Meaco Arete® Two Dehumidifier from John Lewis, include a built-in humidistat that allows you to set a preferred relative humidity to prevent the air from becoming overly dry.

According to Chris Michael, MD of Meaco, the commonly repeated guideline of 40–60% relative humidity indoors may not be the best fit for the UK climate. With a background in humidity control for museums – where even small fluctuations can damage precious artefacts – he suggests aiming for 50–60% RH instead.

“It’s a waste of electricity to task a dehumidifier to work towards below 50% RH unless there’s a specific reason to do so,” Chris explains. Around 55% RH for the ideal balance, as it's dry enough to keep damp and mould at bay, but not so dry that your favourite plants suffer. This setting will also reduce dehumidifier running costs.

Likewise, if you're using a humidifier in your home, remember to keep the settings moderate. Too much moisture in the air can encourage mould growth and even cause harm to houseplants that prefer a drier climate. A hygrometer (a simple humidity monitor) can be a useful gadget for checking conditions in different rooms before you decide whether to run a dehumidifier or a humidifier.

Create a microclimate for your houseplants

According to Richard Barker, grouping plants together, misting leaves, or placing pots on a pebble tray can all help raise local humidity. You can even use a glass dome or cloche to trap moisture around delicate species.

It’s also worth thinking about houseplant placement. Kitchens and bathrooms tend to have higher humidity levels and can be ideal for tropical plants, provided there’s enough natural light. However, you should always avoid putting them near radiators, draughts or directly on underfloor heating.

Top Tip: If houseplants are sharing a room with a dehumidifier, they may need a little extra water. Just avoid leaving roots sitting in soggy soil.

Dehumidifiers can happily co-exist with houseplants as long as you keep an eye on settings and room humidity. If you’re unsure how to use a dehumidifier, start by checking for the signs you need a dehumidifier at home – condensation, lingering damp smells or patches of mould. Once you know the balance, you can keep both your plants and your indoor air in top condition.

Let’s face it, UK summers are warmer than ever before and finding a reliable way to keep cool at home has never felt more pressing. Fans and portable air conditioners offer some temporary relief, but they often fall short when it comes to keeping the house feeling fresh and comfortable, especially when a heatwave is on the cards.

If you’ve found yourself looking for a whole-home solution, experts say an HVAC system could be worth considering. These systems work by actively removing heat and maintaining an even temperature throughout the house, so there's no need to lug fans from room to room or only focus on cooling one space while the rest of your home bakes.

While HVAC setups were once thought of as something reserved for large or modern family homes, newer systems are far more adaptable and energy efficient than you might realise.

So, if you’re weighing up ways to future proof your home, here’s what you need to know about how HVAC cooling works and why it might just be the upgrade your space deserves.

What do we mean by HVAC cooling?

HVAC stands for Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning, and in the context of cooling, it refers to systems designed to regulate your home’s temperature, humidity and air quality. This could mean a central air conditioning system, a split-unit setup with indoor and outdoor components, or a ducted system designed to serve the entire house.

Unlike portable fans, which only circulate air, or portable air conditioners, which are limited to a single space, HVAC cooling works by actively removing heat from the indoor air and delivering a more consistent, controllable cooling experience across multiple rooms.

Modern HVAC systems use advanced heat pump technology to transfer heat. “They can move cold air from outside into the home or move warm air from inside to out,” explains Sachin Vibhute, HVAC and heat pump technical consultant at LG Electronics. “By transferring heat, HVAC systems offer a long-lasting solution to cooling the home when compared with fans and portable units, which only offer temporary, limited relief.”

Reasons To Consider HVAC Cooling For Your Home

HVAC can effectively heat or cool your home according to your needs.

There are different types of HVAC systems to suit different homes. For example, if you're renovating or live in an older property where installing ducts might be tricky, a split system could be ideal.

Many modern systems also offer zoned control, which means you can cool just the rooms you’re using and skip the ones you’re not. “Zoning technology ensures that only the spaces you are actively using are cooled, limiting energy waste in unoccupied rooms,” says James Allen, account manager at Airzone. “Some systems even use sensors to learn your habits and adjust cooling based on when rooms are typically in use.”

An HVAC setup can also work alongside your smart home tech. “Automated blinds can be programmed to close during the hottest parts of the day, helping to block out the sun and reduce the strain on the air conditioning,” explains James Allen. In fact, Airzone’s research suggests this type of setup can help cut household energy use by up to 50%.

Because the main components (like the compressor) are usually installed outside, HVAC systems tend to be much quieter indoors than portable fans. Add in features like air filtration, smart scheduling, and the ability to personalise each room’s temperature, and it’s easy to see why HVAC cooling is becoming such a popular choice.

Is HVAC cooling right for every home?

While HVAC systems offer plenty of benefits, they’re not the ideal solution for everyone, especially when you consider the unique quirks of UK homes (from solid wall construction to tight conservation rules). Whether or not HVAC is the right choice for your home will depend on a few key factors: property type, insulation levels, budget, and how often you actually need to cool your home.

“HVAC doesn't work the same way for everyone,” explains Alan Houghton, MD at Next Level Underfloor Heating & Screed Solutions. “A well-insulated home in a mild area where cooling needs aren't common or someone on a tight budget might not like it. The costs of installing an HVAC system can be high. In some situations, it may be enough to just improve the insulation and airflow to completely cool the house.”

Houghton also points out that older or historic properties may pose more of a challenge. If you live in a listed building or somewhere with strict planning rules, installing ductwork or outdoor units may be restricted. That said, new technologies like split systems and ductless configurations are making retrofitting HVAC much more manageable.

HVAC cooling Costs and Long-Term Value

Investing in an HVAC system is a big decision and naturally, one of the biggest considerations for homeowners is the costs involved. While the upfront expense of these systems can be significant, it's worth weighing this against the long-term benefits, including improved energy efficiency, better indoor air quality, and the potential to increase your home's value.

You will need to bear in mind the costs for everything from the equipment and installation of the system to any changes you might need to make to your home to fit it in the first place.

The most cost-effective option for retrofits is usually a split system, which doesn’t require ductwork and is relatively simple to install. Ducted systems, by contrast, tend to be more expensive and complex, and are typically best suited to new builds or large-scale home renovations.

Maintenance costs also need to be factored in. A well-maintained HVAC system can last 10–15 years or more, but regular servicing is essential. This includes filter changes, cleaning, and inspections, along with keeping the external condenser clear of debris. An annual service by a qualified engineer is recommended to keep everything running smoothly.

As for running costs, there’s good news on that front. Modern systems, particularly those using inverter technology, are far more energy-efficient than older models or standalone units. By adjusting power output based on the temperature needed, they avoid the stop-start inefficiencies of traditional systems. And don’t forget – an efficient HVAC setup can boost your Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) rating, which could add appeal (and potentially value) if you plan to sell in future.

Bonus tip: Setting your HVAC system to a steady 24–25°C is more energy-efficient than switching it on and off or blasting cold air. “This not only extends the lifespan of your HVAC system,” says James Allen, “but also keeps running costs down.”

FAQs

What are the alternatives to HVAC cooling?

While HVAC systems offer whole-home comfort and long-term benefits, they’re not the only way to prevent overheating. Depending on your space, budget or lifestyle, other solutions might make more sense. For example, if you’re renovating or extending, there are other passive cooling strategies that can be built into your designs. These include:

• Shading (like awnings or external blinds)
• Cross-ventilation through carefully placed windows
• Insulation upgrades to prevent heat gain
• High-performance glazing
• Green roofs or reflective roofing material

Can HVAC systems help reduce energy bills?

Yes, especially when paired with a well-insulated, air-sealed home. According to LG’s Sachin Vibhute, HVAC systems with heat pump technology use ambient air for up to 75% of their cooling output. That means only 25% of the energy needs to come from electricity, making them significantly more efficient than traditional units. Add in features like smart controls, occupancy sensors and zoned cooling, and you’ve got a setup that only uses energy when and where it’s needed.

Is HVAC cooling noisy?

Not compared to portable units or window air conditioners. In a typical split system, the noisy compressor lives outside the house, which means indoor units can run quietly, ideal for bedrooms or open-plan spaces.

What should I consider before choosing an HVAC system?

Start with a professional home survey or energy audit. This will identify areas of heat gain and help you make targeted improvements to insulation and airtightness, which could reduce your cooling needs or improve HVAC performance. Other things to factor in include:

• Property size and layout
• Your budget (both upfront and ongoing)
• Whether you want cooling in one room or across the whole house
• Planning or aesthetic considerations (especially for period or listed homes)

Homeowners thinking about installing an HVAC system should look beyond just the tech and consider how well-prepared their home is to support it. Proper insulation, airtightness, and draught-proofing are just as important as the system itself.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

Wall-mounted vs portable air conditioner – just which should you choose? We are living in a world where temperatures are on the rise meaning this is a question you should be giving some serious thought to if you want your home to remain at a comfortable temperature throughout the summer – and even beyond.

Both forms of air conditioning are actually brilliant ways to cool down a room, or an entire house in some cases, but they also offer very different things and come with various pros and cons that it really is important to understand before choosing one over the other.

To help you make an informed decision, we reached out to some experts in the field for their advice on the differences, similarities and cost implications of each type of system.

Wall-mounted vs portable air conditioner – what's the difference?

Before getting into the pros and cons of these types of air conditioning, it is important to understand how they differ.

First up, lets look at how portable air conditioners work. These are units, usually on wheels to help move them around, that come in all shapes and sizes. They are designed to be plugged into to a standard electrical socket and usually feature a water tank to collect the condensation from the air. They can be transported wherever needed, although it is necessary to duct them to outside – often through a window.

Wall-mounted, or 'fixed' air conditioning, on the other hand, stays where it is put – usually high up on a wall or sometimes within the ceiling or hidden at a lower level. They are made up of two parts – the indoor unit and a fan unit situated somewhere outdoors that is connected through copper pipes to the indoor section which will blow out cold air through vents and will often be remote controlled.

Pros and cons of portable air conditioners

There is a great deal to love about the best portable air conditioners, not least how easy they are to set up and start enjoying a cooler home.

"Easy to install and operate, they offer a convenient and portable solution for maintaining comfort and cooling wherever you need it," explains Chris Michael, Meaco's managing director.

"Portable units can be a great short-term option," picks up Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables. "They’re perfect for renters or for occasional use during a heatwave."

"Portable air conditioners offer a simpler, lower-risk alternative," further explains Chris Michael. "They don’t need structural changes, can be moved between rooms, and just need a window for venting. They're a practical option for cooling specific spaces like bedrooms or home offices during hot weather.

Pros of portable air conditioners:

• Flexible: Can be positioned wherever you need them at any given time.
• Simple set-up: No professional installation required.
• Cheaper: Initially they are cheaper to purchase than fixed systems.
• Temporary: No need to have them on show at all times.

Cons of portable air conditioning:

• Noisier: Although quiet-running models are available, on the whole they tend to be louder to run than wall-mounted.
• More expensive to run: Compared to most wall-mounted units, portable costs more to run day-to-day.
• Outdoor ducting required: Need a hose to be run from the unit to outdoors, either through a window or door.
• More hands-on: You will need to plug it in, move it around and remember to empty the water tank when it's full.

Shop portable air conditioners

Pros and cons of wall-mounted air conditioning

If you want a more permanent way to keep your house nice and cool and don't mind stumping up for air conditioning installation costs, then a wall-mounted unit is the way to go.

"If it’s a room you spend time in every day, especially at night, then a wall-mounted system will give you far better comfort and efficiency," explains Martyn Fowler. "They’re quieter, more powerful, and don’t need constant set-up or moving around. They cost more upfront, but they’re much cheaper to run over time."

"Wall-mounted air conditioning systems are effective and quiet, but they come with higher upfront costs and ongoing maintenance," points out Chris Michael. "Professional installation is required and usually involves both indoor and outdoor units, electrical work, and in some cases, planning permission. Once installed, these systems are permanent. Removing them often means repairing walls or ceilings."

Pros of wall-mounted air conditioning:

• Lower running costs: They are far more efficient to run than portable.
• Powerful: They also tend to be more efficient at cooling spaces.
• Fit-and-forget: Once installed, they are simple to operate and discreet – smart models can even be controlled using devices via an app.

Cons of wall-mounted air conditioning:

• Expensive initially: To purchase and install a wall-mounted unit costs more than a portable model.
• Externally visible: They require an outdoor unit which can, in some instances, require planning permission.
• Professional installation required: You will need to call in the pros to get the unit up and running.

How do fixed and portable air conditioning compare in cost?

In terms of air conditioning costs, there is no denying that wall-mounted air conditioning is initially the more expensive of the two.

"A decent portable unit might be £300 to £600, while wall-mounted systems start around £1,200 including installation," picks up Martyn Fowler. "But when you look at energy use, the wall-mounted models win.

"You’re talking around 20 to 30 pence per hour to run compared to 25 to 40 pence for a portable unit – and the cooling performance is much stronger."

Is portable or wall mounted air conditioning better?

Still struggling to decide between the two? It really comes down to what you, personally, want from the unit.

"I’d start with how the space is used," advises Martyn Fowler. "If you’re cooling a room regularly, go for wall-mounted. If it’s a now-and-then thing or you’re not ready to commit to an install, portable can do the job with a few compromises."

Chris Michael has some more advice for those weighing up the two types of systems, wondering how to prevent overheating.

"Using a portable unit is a good way to test whether air conditioning suits your needs before investing in a permanent system," he says. "While they’re usually louder than wall-mounted units, the trade-off in cost and flexibility is often worth it."

FAQs

Can I install a wall-mounted air conditioner myself?

In short, no, you can't.

The work needs to be carried out by an F-gas qualified engineer. This will ensure the system is working properly and is safe to use.

In addition to fitting an air conditioning unit, it is well worth looking into how to keep a house cool using other methods – there are lots of tricks to try.

They might be sleek, quiet, and promise to make your home feel fresher, but can an air purifier cool a room? It’s a question that crops up surprisingly often, especially as temperatures show no signs of dropping and we start to think more seriously about how to keep our homes cool in summer.

The answer? Not quite. While an air purifier might improve the feel of a room by filtering out pollen, dust and stale air, it won’t bring the temperature down. Knowing what an air purifier actually does – and what it doesn’t – can help you decide which appliances are really worth switching on when the heat sets in.

In this guide, we’ll unpack why so many homeowners confuse air purifiers with cooling appliances, and explore how combining them with an air conditioner or fan could give you the best of both worlds.

Can an air purifier cool a room?

“No, an air purifier can’t cool a room,” explains Nicholas Auckland, home energy expert at Trade Radiators. “An air purifier’s job is to clean the air, not cool it.”

Air purifiers work by drawing in air, passing it through internal filters that capture dust, pollen, pet dander and other particles, and then releasing that cleaned air back into the space. While this process might make a room feel fresher, it doesn’t have any impact on actual temperature.

“The movement of the air from its fan might create a very very slight breeze, but it doesn’t actually have any cooling mechanism,” Auckland adds. “In fact, the process of running the motor may even add a very minuscule amount of heat to the room.”

If you’ve seen products described as both air purifiers and coolers, it’s worth looking closely at the specifications. According to Auckland: “If a product is advertised as an ‘air purifier and cooler’, then it’s likely an air cooler (an evaporative cooler) that has a filter in it. Air coolers are not the same as air conditioners – they cool the air by evaporating water, which often tends to be less effective in the UK’s often humid climate and can actually make the room feel damp and moist.”

In short, while air purifiers contribute to comfort by cleaning the air, they don't provide relief from the heat, and confusing them with cooling appliances could leave you disappointed when temperatures rise.

Reasons to use an air purifier in summer

An air purifier might not bring the temperature down, but that doesn’t mean it won’t improve how your home feels when it’s hot outside. In summer, many of us keep windows closed to block out heat, noise or pollution, which can lead to stuffy, stale air indoors. This is where a purifier really earns its place.

“Air purifiers don’t cool a room down, but they do make it feel fresher,” explains Katie Lilywhite, air treatment expert at AO.com. “Your air purifier will clean the air and remove dust, pollen, smoke and any airborne nasties – this will go a long way to making your space feel less muggy during any heatwaves.”

If you have pets, live in a city or suffer from hayfever, summer can be especially challenging. As temperatures rise, so does pollen and pet shedding. An air purifier can help by removing allergens and airborne irritants from your home environment, meaning you can breathe easier without needing to rely on open windows.

What appliances actually cool a room down?

“To actually cool down a room, you need to remove the heat from it,” explains Nicholas Auckland. “Home air conditioning will do this by using a refrigerant cycle to absorb heat from the indoor air and transfer it outside.”

Some homeowners also turn to evaporative air coolers, which chill the air by passing it over water-saturated pads. These can work in drier climates, but are often less effective in the UK, where humidity levels are often higher. Auckland warns they can “actually make the room feel damp and moist” when used in the wrong conditions, which is the opposite of what you want during a heatwave.

Fans are another option to bring the heat down, though they don’t cool the air itself. Instead, they circulate it around the room to create a breeze that helps your body feel cooler. When paired with other appliances, they can still make a noticeable difference on warmer days though.

When to pair an air purifier with air conditioning

“You can combine an air purifier and air conditioning if you want to improve air quality and manage heat at the same time,” explains Chris Michael, CEO at Meaco. “The air conditioner controls temperature and humidity, while the purifier helps reduce allergens, dust, and other airborne particles.”

This combined approach is particularly useful in cities or during high pollen days when you want to keep your windows and doors closed.For the best results, it’s worth thinking about placement. “You need to position them in different parts of the room to promote better overall air circulation,” explains Nicholas Auckland. “The air conditioner cools and moves the air, and the purifier can then effectively capture any airborne particles.”

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If you're weighing up an air purifier vs dehumidifier, it helps to know they do very different jobs. Purifiers clean the air by removing allergens and pollutants, while dehumidifiers tackle excess moisture to help prevent damp and mould.

'How much air conditioning noise can I expect' is arguably one of the most common questions asked by anyone considering adding it to their homes. But, is it realistic to expect it to be whisper quiet?

With fixed air conditioning units comprising interior and exterior units, and portable air conditioners venting externally through windows, it's safe to assume you will experience some level of volume, but how much?

We explore air conditioning noise and whether one solution is quieter than another so you know what to expect when choosing a system or cooling solution.

Fixed air conditioning noise: How noisy is it?

If you're investing in the air conditioning costs for a fixed system, you'll want to be sure that it's money well spent. While the cooling breeze it will bring is guaranteed to bring relief from rising temperatures, if you can't bear to turn it on because it's simply too noisy, you will have wasted money, time and effort.

“One of the most common concerns people have about air con is noise," agrees Adam Knight, a lead engineer at heating and cooling experts, BOXT. "But modern systems are surprisingly quiet," he assures us.

"The indoor units BOXT installs, such as high-efficiency Bosch models, are designed to be whisper-quiet. They typically produce around 50 - 55 decibels of sound, which is comparable to low background music or a modern fridge running," he explains.

"Some Bosch units even come with a 'silent mode' feature which reduces the indoor sound even further to 21 decibels," he adds.

"Overall, air conditioning is certainly quieter than an oscillating fan whirring away in the corner of the room," says Adam.

It's a statement backed up by Hamid Salimi, residential product manager at Daikin UK.

"While it’s normal for air conditioning (otherwise known as air-to-air heat pumps) to make some noise, they are much quieter than most people think," says Hamid.

"Indoor units make a gentle whirring noise which measures around 30 decibels. For context, that’s quieter than a refrigerator and as soft as a whisper, meaning it’s very unlikely that an air conditioning unit will cause a noise disturbance to you or your neighbours," he explains.

Is the noise level from the outdoor unit more than the indoor one?

While on the subject of neighbours, you'll also need to remember that as well as indoor noise, fixed air conditioning installation will include an external unit that will be placed outside.

So is this as quiet as the indoor unit, or will it generate more noise?

"The outdoor unit does make more noise," confirms Adam Knight, "around 60 to 65 decibels – but again, it's important to remember this is similar to the level of background noise on a street. Because it’s installed outside, you’re also unlikely to hear much from indoors."

"A typical Daikin air-to-air outdoor unit is usually no louder than 60 decibels, just like an electric toothbrush or a normal conversation," agrees Hamid Salimi, noting how there are also industry regulations to protect you and your neighbours against the air conditioning noise produced by your system.

"Heat pumps are not permitted to produce more than 65-70 decibels, depending on their power," explains Hamid. " That’s the same noise level as a dishwasher."

Worried a nieghbour may question the noise level of your air con external unit? "For extra peace of mind, all heat pumps must have a CE label stating their sound level," says Hamid, meaning you can clearly show them what noise it's producing.

If however noise of any kind is a top concern, there are ways to help reduce it further.

"Choosing a premium brand with quieter technology, ensuring the unit is properly installed and serviced, and placing the external unit in a sensible location can all help," says Adam.

"Expert installers should always be trained to advise on the quietest, most efficient set-up for your space too," he adds.

Portable air conditioning noise levels

Not able to retrofit air con and instead find yourself looking at the best portable air conditioning units? Noise should again inform your buying decisions, so before you press buy, what should you expect once you've set it up?

“Portable air conditioners are not silent appliances as they compress air, circulate it, and expel heat," says Katie Lilywhite, air treatment expert at AO.com.

"You should certainly expect a bit of humming," she confirms, but how loud is this humming?

"Typically speaking, this is usually between 50-65 decibels depending on the model of your air conditioner and the setting you’re running," says Katie. "By comparison, this is about the same as a dishwasher, light traffic or even a normal conversation."

But, while kitchen appliances such as dishwashers and fridges are often integrated, which helps to partially reducing the noise produced, portable air con units need to be left in the open in order to work properly. Add to this any additional external noise from having a window open for the external vent, and there's no doubt that a portable model will be noisier than fixed air con.

But is it noisier than a fan which circulates air, even if it doesn't cool it? Again it depends on the model you buy and exactly what it is you need. Having tested the MeacoFan Sefte 10" Pedestal Fan, it certainly felt as if it was as whisper quiet as promised, whereas cheaper pedestal fans I've used are often equally as noisy as a portable air con unit.

To expect something that works so hard to be silent isn't realistic, but you can make sure you choose the quietest model by checking the decibel ratings on the product description before you buy, or looking for units that are Quiet Mark rated.

Shop these quiet cooling appliances

FAQs

Why is my portable air con unit so noisy?

“If your air conditioner is running at a much louder volume than expected, this could be the sign of problems," warns Katie Lilywhite. "It could indicate there is an obstruction in the filter or hose, or it might be struggling on an extra hot day.

"To keep things as quiet as possible, keep your filters clean and be sure to keep all windows and doors closed," she suggests, "which will stop your air conditioner from overworking and being any noisier than it needs to be."

Where you position your air con unit will form part of the advice given during installation, but make sure you also know what best advice is by reading our guide to the 7 places never to put air conditioning. And, if a portable air con unit is your only option, weigh up the differences first between air con vs air coolers to check you are buying the right product.

The UK government is considering expanding its Boiler Upgrade Scheme to include air-to-air heat pumps that offer both heating and cooling.

A consultation launched in July 2025 seeks views on whether these systems should be eligible for the £7,500 grant currently available for other types of heat pumps.

The proposal comes amid growing concerns over rising summer temperatures and the need for homes to adapt.

Government explores adding cooling to grant scheme

The Department for Energy Security and Net Zero has opened a consultation to assess whether air-to-air heat pumps should be eligible for support through the Boiler Upgrade Scheme.

These systems, which provide both heating and cooling, are not currently included in the heat pump grant scheme.

A government spokesperson said: “With extreme heat becoming more frequent, it’s right to consider how future-ready technologies can be supported alongside existing clean heat options.”

The department indicated that the change could be made using existing Boiler Upgrade Scheme funding, with no expected increase to overall costs.

Installers and manufacturers call for broader eligibility

Industry figures, including The Apprentice winner Dean Franklin, have called for the inclusion of air conditioning systems in grants schemes to reflect changing homeowner needs.

Franklin, whose business is backed by Lord Sugar, says customer demand has shifted: “Consumers want systems that work all year round - not just heating in winter.”

Several manufacturers, such as Daikin, NIBE and Baxi Heating, have also indicated that wider eligibility could help reduce costs through scale, supporting both affordability and adoption.

Consultation signals wider shift in home energy policy

The consultation also includes proposals to allow more flexible ownership and leasing models for air source heat pumps, and to support emerging technologies like heat batteries.

Experts say expanding the scheme to include cooling reflects a broader shift in policy toward climate adaptation.

Ed Miliband confirmed last month in Parliament: “In my Department, as we drive forward our plan to upgrade millions of homes, we have consulted on expanding the boiler upgrade scheme to include air-to-air heat pumps, which can offer cooling as well as heating.” 

A decision on the consultation is expected later in 2025, with implementation possible in 2026.

Picture this scene: it’s the end of a long day painting and you’re desperate to get the room finished. You’ve already cracked the windows open but the paint still feels tacky to the touch – so you reach for a dehumidifier to help speed things along. Sounds like a clever fix, right? Well, no. Not quite.

While it’s tempting to use a dehumidifier to make paint dry faster, experts warn that this shortcut could do more harm than good, and not just to your walls. From cracked paint finishes to uneven drying, this seemingly harmless shortcut can actually derail your decorating efforts. In some cases, it might even cause unnecessary strain on your appliance.

Below, we explain why a dehumidifier isn’t the best choice for drying paint, and share the simple steps that will get you better results.

Why you shouldn't use a dehumidifier to make paint dry

“While it may be tempting to think a dehumidifier can speed up paint drying times, this DIY trick can cause more harm than good,” cautions Katie Lilywhite, air treatment expert at AO.com. “Paint needs a little humidity to settle properly, and if you pull too much moisture from the air, this can lead to your paint peeling or cracking ahead of time.”

Chris Michaels, director at Meaco,agrees, explaining: “Using a dehumidifier to dry paint too early can cause the surface to dry faster than the layers underneath, leading to an uneven finish or cracks.”

What’s more, when you place a dehumidifier in a freshly painted room, it ends up working far harder than it should. All the lingering moisture from the wet paint can throw things off balance and force the machine to run constantly without much payoff. Over time, this kind of strain can wear out the internal mechanisms faster than you'd expect.

So, rather than speeding things up, you could actually be setting yourself up for an uneven paint finish, or a decorating job you’ll need to redo much sooner than planned.

What should you do instead?

So, if a dehumidifier isn’t the answer, what is the best way to help paint dry properly, especially in a space that’s cold, damp, or poorly ventilated? The simplest solutions are often the most effective. Instead of trying to force the process, focus on creating steady, natural ventilation and airflow. That means opening windows where possible, propping open internal doors, and using a fan to keep air moving in the room. Just avoid cranking up the heat, which can be just as damaging as over-drying the air.

“Paint needs to dry at a steady rate," explains Chris Michael. "So for the best results, follow the manufacturer’s drying times and ventilate the room with natural airflow or an air circulator fan.”

"A dehumidifier is great for laundry and damp control, but not for speeding up paint drying," Chris adds. The key is patience and trusting the product to do its job. Manufacturers test different types of paint to dry in typical conditions, so sticking to their guidance will give you the best finish. Trying to rush the process can result in exactly the issues you want to avoid, from visible brush strokes to paint bubbling.

Shop the best portable fans

Fed up of gloss paintbrushes feeling stiff and sticky? Follow this simple guide to cleaning paint brushes to keep your painting tools in top condition.

The recent heatwaves and sleepless nights have finally tipped me over the edge and made me consider getting a fan for our bedroom. I've previously been put off as I'm such a light sleeper that the slightest noise can wake me up, but a fan that promised to cool our room with less than a whisper of noise was something I was happy to put to the test.

The new Duux Whisper Flex 2 fan (available from Amazon) is endorsed by Quiet Mark, meaning it meets high standards for its low noise levels. Duux claims it comes in at only 13 decibels on the lowest fan settings, which is less than a whisper apparently as that measures around 30 decibels.

Having tried cheaper desk fans in the past and been disappointed by how noisy they were, I was keen to see if the Duux Whisper Flex 2 would make it onto our list of the best air cooling fans. More importantly though, would it save me from restless, sweaty nights in a heatwave?

Unboxing and setting up the fan

The fan arrived in a relatively compact package that was lightweight and easy for me to pick up. Once opened, I could see the different fan components were neatly packaged inside and would need assembling.

There were seven different packages within the box, and I was pleased to see that all of the packaging can be recycled, including the bags that hold the individual components as these can be composted.

There was also a small booklet with diagrams on how to assemble the fan. I think the instructions could have been slightly clearer and bigger, but then I'm never a fan of assembling anything ( I typically delegate that to my husband), so other people may find the instructions super easy to follow.

The first thing that threw me was that it showed you had to insert a battery pack in the base, but there was no battery included in the box. A quick look on the website and I realised this is an additional extra and only required if you want to use the fan without a mains power supply, so not essential for me.

Once I'd sat down and worked out how to put it together from the images, it was relatively easy to assemble. The first column should slot neatly into the base, followed by the second one with the fan head on top.

At first I couldn't get them to slot in, but soon realised that each column features one wide prong and one narrower one, so you have to make sure you have each column lined up correctly with the right-sized hole. Once I'd turned the column 180 degrees, it slotted in perfectly.

One thing to note is you will need to have a screwdriver to unscrew the main fan casing so you can insert the blades and it's a bit fiddly to do it.

All in, however, it probably only took around 15 minutes to fully assemble everything, although I needed a second pair of hands to hold the fan steady while I slotted the casing back into place and tightened the small screw that keeps it firmly closed.

The last thing you need to do is insert the power cable in the base, plug it in and you're good to go.

First impressions

I have to say I was pleasantly surprised by the Whisper Flex 2's stylish looks. The sleek base with its touch-activated LED display feels super modern, while the off-white finish (this is the Stone colourway) will suit any room scheme, although it's also available in black and grey if you prefer a different colour.

The remote control is compact, easy to use and has a smart matt finish, although if I was being super picky I would have preferred it to be in white rather than black to match the fan.

The LED display on the base of the Whisper Flex 2 is easy to understand and I had no problem switching on the fan and activating the different modes from there or by using the remote control.

It also has a sturdy handle at the back of the fan that makes it easy to carry from room to room, so you can use it where and when you need it most to help keep your house cool.

It's certainly a step up from pedestal fans I've used and seen in the past, and although it perhaps doesn't have the wow factor of bladeless tower fans from the likes of Dyson or Shark, it's cheaper and still packs a punch in the style stakes.

Just like the similarly priced MeacoFan Sefte 10" Pedestal Air Circulator that we've also reviewed for Homebuilding & Renovating, it's part of a new breed of pedestal fans that are sleeker and more style conscious.

Duxx Whisper Flex 2 specifications

The Whisper Flex 2 comes with a whole host of benefits:

• Super-quiet noise levels from 13dB – 55dB (depending on the setting you use)
• Two-year guarantee
• Vertical and horizontal oscillation
• 30 speed settings
• Remote control
• Compatible with Google Assistant and Amazon Alexa
• Timer function
• Night mode
• 15m range
• Adjustable height
• Child safety lock
• Air flow per hour of 1,750 m³
• Weighs 4.2kg

Using the Duux Whisper Flex 2 fan in my home

We haven't got air conditioning anywhere in our home, so the first place I was keen to try the fan was in my bedroom. I hate sleeping in a hot bedroom, so summer and heatwaves are always tricky when it comes to me getting a good night's sleep. I have the windows open at night whatever the time of year and I'm never happier than when our room is like an ice box in winter and I get to snuggle up under the duvet!

Whether it's summer or winter, I always seem to find the room far hotter than my husband does, and when you add perimenopausal hot flushes into the equation as well, I often feel like I'm sleeping in a sauna. I've lost track of the number of times I've woken up in the night feeling too hot and then struggle to get back to sleep.

The first night I used the fan in our room the daytime temperature had been in the mid-20s so our bedroom was still feeling warm by the time I went to bed. I set the fan up on my side of the bed near to the window with the hope that it would help to boost our ventilation by drawing cooler night air into the room as well.

Using the remote I set it on the night mode so it was a lower, quieter setting. Having it in this mode also means any beeps are eliminated if you change the settings during the night, plus the LED display dims so there are no bright lights to disturb your sleep.

The result? I had no issues falling asleep and even if I did briefly wake up during the night the fan was so quiet that I barely noticed it and had no problems falling back to sleep. If anything, the gentle movement of air that I could faintly hear proved to be quite relaxing. There's even a natural wind mode which Duux claims "adjusts fan speed to mimic the rhythms of real wind, for an incredibly relaxing cooling experience."

On subsequent nights the days have been even hotter as we approach another heatwave and the Whisper Flex 2 has done a brilliant job of keeping me cooler at night without disturbing my sleep.

I also haven't had to worry about how much all of this is costing me in terms of electricity. According to Duux, it costs less than 1p per hour to run the Duux on the lowest setting. Paying just 8p for a night of fan-cooled sleep sounds like a bargain to me!

Switching to a desk fan

One of the things I love most about the Duux Whisper Flex 2 is how you can convert it from a pedestal fan to a desk fan in just a few seconds. Simply release the top section, remove the bottom column and then insert the top section of the fan directly into the base. It turns it from a 92cm standing fan to a handy 54cm desk/table fan that can sit neatly in my workspace.

My home office area gets full sun mid- to late-afternoon and can therefore become uncomfortably hot. When my laptop starts sounding like a plane that's about to take off, you know it's getting too warm in the room.

Adding the fan to my home workspace has been brilliant on those sunny afternoons. Rather than feel overtired in the heat, it's helped me to stay energised and refreshed towards the end of the day. It's also quiet enough to have on in the background during video meetings without disturbing everyone on the call.

The kids have also got in on the fan action too. Both of their bedrooms get the hot afternoon sun through their windows so during heatwaves their rooms can become unbearably hot.

My son has loved having the fan alongside his desk to keep him cool while he does his homework after school, while my daughter has been pinching it to lower the temperature in her bedroom in the evenings while she's at swim training, meaning it's cooler in there when she gets home and wants to go straight to bed.

Should you buy the Duux Whisper Flex 2?

It's safe to say that the whole family is a fan of the Duxx Whisper Flex 2. It works brilliantly for a multitude of uses, easily switching from a home office set-up to a taller pedestal fan for a bedroom.

The night mode is a big bonus for me, ensuring I have the benefit of a fan without having to worry about being disturbed by an appliance. It's also easier to move around the house than a portable air conditioning unit would be – even my two kids can easily carry it from one room to the next.

The reason I've only given it 4.5 stars instead of 5? Although I was able to download the Duxx app and locate the fan via Bluetooth, it wouldn't connect to our Wi-Fi. I tried various troubleshooting options, but we just couldn't get it to connect so I haven't been able to test how you control it from the app. Other reviews I've read online have said that it's easy to use with the app, so it could be the issue is with our internet and not the fan itself, especially as we've recently changed our router. I'll be trying again and add an update here once it's sorted!

That small issue hasn't stopped us enjoying the benefits of having a sleek, modern fan in the house. It's easy to control from the remote control or the base and I love how quiet it is, even when on the higher settings, something other reviewers are also quick to point out, with many comments saying that it's "ultra quiet".

Do I think it's worth the price tag? Although it's not the cheapest fan you can buy, it's certainly less expensive than other designer models and not as expensive as installing air conditioning. And if you want a fan that delivers on the cooling front, is super quiet and looks good sat in the corner of your room or on a desk, then yes, this is a smart choice.

Next on my list? I'm off to put my fan through another test and try the latest TikTok hack on how to use a fan to remove hot air from a room.

Weighing up the differences in air conditioning vs fans will generally come down to looking at three main factors: performance, appearance and costs.

And while each appliance will have its own merits in different categories, and perhaps one category will be more important to you than the others, choosing the right air conditioning product is becoming even more important with heatwaves making a more regular appearance.

In this article, we break down the pros and cons of air conditioning vs fans so you can make the right purchasing choice.

1. Air conditioning vs fans: appearance

If you're particularly house proud and prefer your appliances and tech to be out of sight, choosing the right type of air conditioning will involve weighing up how the different systems will impact on the overall look of your home.

And while fixed air con systems with wall or ceiling mounted fans or vents can avoid the look of bulky appliances cluttering up your floor plan, if air conditioning costs are too prohibitive, a portable air conditioning unit may well be your only option.

Similar to the appearance of some of the best dehumidifiers, (a function also offered by many portable air conditioning units), they are nonetheless not the most attractive of home appliances – particularly as they can't be integrated.

Add to this the the fact a flexible section of ducting has to run from the back of the machine to an open window, and it could be a step too far for those of you with a keen eye for aesthetics.

That said, although some models look more like commercial machines than others, their plain white or black exterior does mean they can blend more easily into the background than first impressions might suggest.

So what about fans? There's no denying their appearance has received a general makeover in recent years, with the likes of Meaco, Shark and Dyson all pushing the boundaries of design, producing models such as the MeacoFan Sefte 8" Rechargeable Fan , and the Dyson Hot & Cool Jet Focus, both available from Amazon, that are a far cry from the clunky pedestal fans of old.

Sleeker design and smaller foot print models such as tower or blade fans can all sit more comfortably in contemporary homes, and with table top fans also receiving a similar makeover, you can pop them on tables or shelving so they can't as in obtrusive as floor standing products.

But, with air conditioning and fans both needing to fulfil the objective of cooling, it's the category of performance that should really be the strongest influence in choosing between an air conditioning unit vs a fan.

2. Air conditioning vs fan: performance

It's in the category of performance where there are even more marked differences between air conditioning vs fans.

"A fan doesn’t cool the room, it cools you," explains Hamid Salimi, residential product manager at Daikin UK. "By boosting airflow, a fan helps your body release heat and evaporate sweat, making you feel cooler."

Or, to put it more simply, "fans only circulate air whereas air conditioners cool and dehumidify the same air," adds Katie Lilywhite, air treatment expert at AO.com.

"What many people don’t realise is air conditioning is the same environmentally friendly technology as a heat pump and works much like a fridge, transferring energy using a refrigerant cycle," says Hamid.

"Unlike fans, an air conditioning unit cools the entire space by using refrigerant to absorb heat through evaporation and release it through condensation. Some fixed air conditioning systems such as air to air heat pumps can also provide much more than cooling," he expands.

"In heating mode, air conditioning units absorb energy from the outdoor air and release it as heat through the indoor unit. In cooling mode, the process is reversed: heat is extracted from inside your home and released outside.

Of course, there are ways to make a fan feel like it's moving cooler air around the room, such as placing an bowl of ice in front of it and making sure you've taken on board all the ways to make a room cooler, including keeping windows and curtains closed, so that the air your fan circulates is cooler than the air outdoors.

But, fans will never produce cold air, unless you opt for something in-between such as an air cooler which draws in hot air, blows it over cold water soaked pads and then returns this cooled air into the room.

3. Air conditioning unit vs fans: cost

While there is a vast difference between fixed air conditioning costs, both in terms of how much air conditioning installation costs and the running costs of a portable air conditioning unit vs a fixed system, comparing air conditioning vs fan costs is a little more complex.

Having paid both budget and premium prices for fans, it does seem to be you get what you pay for. I recently reviewed the MeacoFan Sefte 10" Pedestal Fan which costs around £180. Was it worth the price? Absolutely. It ticked plenty of boxes in terms of appearance and performance and I've no doubt it will last – unlike the cheap and cheerful budget pedestal fans I've panic bought in the past that were either unbearably noisy or only lasted one season.

Purchasing costs for air conditioning vs fans can therefore seem to vary wildly, with some budget fans coming in under £30, while portable air conditioning units can cost upwards from around £250. However, if you consider a more premium fan and compare this with the cost of a good quality air conditioner, the gap starts to shrink.

Running costs of each type again vary, but understandably so given a portable unit is cooling and distributing that air, whereas a fan is only moving the air that exists around the room.

An air con unit designed to heat a medium sized room, such as this Delonghi Pinguino PAC EL110 from the Air Con Centre, will cost around 28p per hour to run compared to the MeacoFan Sefte which my smart meter said was only costing 1p per hour.

Of course, if the air is being more effectively cooled, you may run the air con unit for less time than a fan, but it's never going to be as cheap as a fan in the long run.

Where to buy air con units and fans

The recent spate of heatwaves means some suppliers are already showing out of stock listings on many items. However, there are still products available at Amazon, B&Q, The Air Con Centre and AO.com, to name a few.

Katie Lilywhite's final tips for choosing between portable air conditioning vs fans? It's as you'd expect with one additional suggestion if you have the space and budget.

“Fans and air conditioners both have their place and ultimately it comes down to how hot and bothered you're feeling," she says.

"Some of the pros of fans are they’re cheap, cheap to run and much quieter than an air conditioner. However, for sheer power and performance look no further than an air conditioner," she advises.

"But," shares Katie, "a little-known fact is that when you run the two together, you’ll enjoy the best of both worlds. Fans are great for quick relief in well-ventilated spaces, and when combined with an air conditioner, this will result in a lovely cool breeze being blown around the whole room.”

Off to shop? Make sure you've worked out what size air conditioning unit you need before you press buy, and understand what are places never to put air conditioning which includes tips for the best location for your portable air conditioning unit.

When it comes to choosing a dehumidifier, capacity really does matter. Pick one that’s too low, and it’ll run constantly while barely reducing humidity. Go too high, and you could end up using more energy than you need. As with all things, the goal is to hit that Goldilocks number: the best dehumidifier that’s just right for your home and how you use it.

The right capacity depends on the size of your home, how damp the space is, and what you need the unit to do. Whether you’re trying to tackle window condensation, improve air quality or dry laundry indoors, knowing what size of dehumidifier you need will help you get better results with less waste.

Below, we’ll walk you through the basics of dehumidifier sizing, with expert tips on how to choose the right capacity for your needs.

What size of dehumidifier do I need?

When we refer to dehumidifier ‘size’, it’s important to know that we’re not talking about the physical dimensions of the machine, but rather how much moisture it can extract from the air over a 24-hour period. As Nicholas Auckland, home energy expert at Trade Radiators, explains: "The size of a dehumidifier is measured by its extraction rate, which is usually given in litres per day (often shortened to L/day). So, a 12L dehumidifier can generally extract up to 12 litres of water from the air over a 24-hour period."

It’s also worth noting that while a higher-capacity unit can remove more moisture, it won’t necessarily be more efficient. What’s more important is how well a unit is matched to your space and how it’s used.

How to work out what size of dehumidifier you need

Now we’ve established what we mean by dehumidifier ‘size’, the next step is matching that capacity to your home. There’s no one-size-fits-all solution and the right unit for a small utility room won’t necessarily cut it in a draughty conservatory or busy family home.

“First things first, measure up the room you’re looking to use a dehumidifier in,” says Katie Lilywhite, air treatment expert at AO.com. “You should consider how damp the space is, how much airflow it gets, and whether you’re drying your clothes inside. Each of these factors can impact how hard your dehumidifier will have to work.”

Small spaces: utility rooms, bedrooms and home offices

For compact rooms with low to moderate moisture – such as small bedrooms or utility rooms – a 10L to 12L dehumidifier is usually sufficient. According to Katie Lilywhite, these units are ideal for controlling everyday humidity levels and occasional condensation without taking up too much space or energy.

Medium spaces: lounges, conservatories and laundry areas

If you’re dealing with a medium-sized space or somewhere that tends to feel a little more humid – such as a living room, conservatory or anywhere you regularly dry laundry – Katie recommends buying a 15L to 20L model, as “these offer a more powerful extraction rate to manage fluctuating humidity throughout the day.”

Whole homes: choosing by property size

If you’re looking for a whole-home solution or something to reduce humidity across multiple rooms, it’s best to choose by property size. Chris Michael, CEO of Meaco, explains: “In smaller homes, such as a flat, a 10L or 12L unit is usually sufficient. For a three-bedroom home, a 20L model is more appropriate. Properties with four or more bedrooms will benefit most from a 25L machine.”

Drying laundry indoors? Go a size up

If you intend on using your dehumidifier to dry clothes indoors, consider going one capacity bracket higher than you would for the room size alone. Moisture from wet laundry can significantly increase humidity, and a more powerful unit will handle it more efficiently, without running non-stop.

“In instances where a property has significant damp issues and/or the need to frequently dry wet washing indoors, you should also buy one size up,” adds Chris Michael.

Shop the best dehumidifiers

FAQs

Can you ever get too big a dehumidifier?

Yes. Choosing a unit that’s too powerful for a small space may reduce the humidity quickly, but it’ll also use more energy than required, cost more to run and could be noisier than necessary

Do I need a bigger unit if I’m drying laundry indoors?

Absolutely. Wet washing adds a lot of moisture to the air, so opting for one capacity size higher than usual helps prevent your dehumidifier from running constantly and keeps drying times reasonable.

How do I size a dehumidifier for a basement or cold space?

If you're using a dehumidifier in a chilly space, such as in a basement or an unheated room, you’ll usually need a larger unit, ideally around 20–25L per day. Compressor dehumidifiers can struggle in cooler temperatures (below 16°C), so a desiccant dehumidifier is often a better choice. These work well in cold conditions and even add a bit of warmth to the space. Just be sure to check the energy rating, as they can use more power.

What factors besides size should I consider?

While capacity is important, other factors can affect how well your dehumidifier performs. Think about how damp your space feels, how much airflow it gets, and how often it’s used. Poor ventilation, internal walls with no insulation, or lots of occupants can all raise home humidity levels. Likewise, spaces with little natural airflow, like utility rooms or bathrooms without windows, will demand more from your unit. In scenarios such as these, it pays to go one capacity size up from the norm.

Choosing the right size of dehumidifier is a great first step, but regular dehumidifier maintenance is just as important. To keep your unit running efficiently, make sure you clean the water tank and air vents regularly, and check or replace the filter as recommended by the manufacturer.

Let’s face it, we Brits aren’t exactly made for 30°C + temperatures. So, when the country is gripped by a heatwave, we instinctively reach for a fan to try and keep our homes cool. But it turns out we may have been using them all wrong and TikTok has something to say about it.

Rather than pointing the fan directly at yourself and hoping for the best, users on the platform are flipping the script – quite literally – by positioning their fans to face out of their bedroom windows instead.

The idea is to push hot air outside of the room, rather than just swirling it around inside. And while it might sound counterintuitive, the results are surprisingly effective. Below, we asked experts why and how this social media 'hack' actually works.

The clever fan 'hack' shared on Tik Tok

This clever fan trick started gaining traction when home content creators –– such as @alexthecleaner (featured above) –– began sharing reels showing how they use a standard desk fan in a way most of us had never considered. Instead of pointing it into the room, they positioned the fan so it blows out of their bedroom window.

Naturally, the comments came flooding in, with many viewers admitting they’d never thought to use a fan this way. One follower wrote, “This feels wrong, but it works so well,” while another chimed in with, “Can you really call physics a ‘hack’?”

So, how does this reverse-fan method actually work? We asked the experts…

How and why does it work?

To understand what’s really going on, we asked Nicholas Auckland at Trade Radiators and Katie Lilywhite, air treatment expert at AO.com, to explain the science.

“Positioning a fan to face out of an open window works like an exhaust fan,” explains Nicholas. “It creates negative pressure inside the room, which actively pushes the warm, stale air out. As this air is removed, cooler, fresher air from outside is drawn in to replace it. You're essentially creating a ventilation system.”

Katie agrees, describing the process as “reverse ventilation.” “When you point your fan facing outwards through a window, you’re basically creating an exhaust system. Your fan pulls the warmer air from inside your room and pushes it outside, which can be surprisingly effective at lowering your room’s temperature – especially when it feels stuffy and stagnant during a muggy night.”

So how does this compare to using a fan the more traditional way?

“Pointing a fan at yourself doesn't actually lower the room's temperature at all,” Nicholas explains. “It creates a wind chill effect, which helps you feel cooler by evaporating sweat from your skin. But if you’re not in the direct path of the breeze, you won’t feel much benefit, as the fan isn’t cooling the air, it’s just moving it around.”

Katie adds: “You’ll enjoy a breeze, of course, but it doesn’t reach the root of the problem – the heat stuck in your room. Facing your fan outside can actually remove this heat and help create a genuinely cooler environment, especially in the early mornings or late evenings.”

When to try it

If you're tempted to try this hack at home, timing is everything. “This technique works best in the late evening or early morning when the outside air is noticeably cooler than the air inside,” explains Nicholas. “If the air outside is warmer or the same temperature, you're just drawing in more heat, which makes the whole thing pointless.”

Katie expands on this: “You’ll want to run your fan at these times before the sun ramps the heat up. However, you’ll struggle to pull off this trick during hot afternoons. If the temperature is hotter outdoors than it is in your home, then all you’ll do is pull hotter air in, making things worse.”

To get the most out of the method, both experts recommend creating a cross-breeze – a simple form of natural ventilation. “Open another window or door on the opposite side of the house,” suggests Nicholas. “This helps pull cooler air through the space and speeds up the cooling process. Of course, not all homes will allow for this depending on layout, but it can make a noticeable difference.”

During the peak heat of the day, the advice is simple: block the heat out. “Keep windows and curtains closed if the air outside is hotter,” Nicholas advises. “Blackout blinds are ideal. Use a fan to circulate air inside. Just make sure it’s facing you to create that cooling breeze effect.”

Shop the best fans for keeping cool

With energy costs on the rise and full-blown home air conditioning still a rarity in UK households, it’s easy to see why this clever fan trick is catching on. Most of us already have a portable fan on standby for summer, but it might be time to rethink how you’re using it. Still on the hunt for a reliable model? We’ve rounded up some of the best fans for cooling your home this summer:

Still too hot to sleep? Try this easy DIY air conditioning trick for an affordable way to cool down a room fast.

Understanding what size air con unit you need can make all the difference when it comes to keeping cool, or ending up feeling hot and bothered that your system isn't working as well as you thought it would.

But how do you figure out what size you need? Is it down to room size or do other elements such as how your home is constructed and how many rooms there are in total play a part too?

We asked experts what they recommend when it comes to choosing the right size of unit for your home, whether it's a permanently installed air conditioning solution, or a portable one, to help you avoid making any costly mistakes.

Choosing the right size fixed air con unit to install

Once you've decided on the right type of air conditioning unit to install in your home, choosing the size is normally something your chosen company and engineer will advise you on during the consultation process. But as a guide, here's what Adam Knight, lead engineer at BOXT explains regarding how they make that recommendation.

“It’s really important to make sure air conditioning units are correctly sized for your space," confirms Adam. "A smaller output will typically be cheaper to install and could be more cost-effective to run, but if the unit is too small, it won’t be able to cool or heat your space properly.

"Therefore, finding the right size ensures your system runs efficiently without wasting energy.

"At BOXT, we base the size of the air con unit on the specific room you’re cooling or heating," explains Adam. "It’s not a one-size-fits-all approach though," he warns. "We look at the exact dimensions of the space, but also other key factors like the number of windows, ceiling height, insulation, how much direct sunlight the room gets, and even the construction type of your home.

"A large, open-plan kitchen diner with a lot of architectural glazing, for example, will need a higher output than a smaller, shaded bedroom," he explains.

So while you may assume it's simply a case of measuring your room and that's enough, while this can give you an initial indication, it's a little more complex than that.

"When you get a quote through BOXT’s website for example," says Adam, "we ask a few questions to get this information, and then one of our expert review teams double-checks everything to make sure the recommended unit is the right size for optimal performance. Not too big, not too small. That way, you get consistent comfort without wasting energy.”

Choosing the right size portable air conditioning unit

While portable units may be cheaper to buy in terms of air conditioning costs, the running costs for a portable system can mount up, which is why understanding what size air conditioning unit you need is just as important for these short term solutions too.

And, in the same way as the size of a fixed air con unit is determined by more than just the size of the room it is cooling, other factors also come into play.

“Getting the right sized air conditioner is essentially about its cooling capacity," explains air treatment expert at AO.com, Katie Lilywhite. "Each air conditioner is measured in BTUs (British Thermal Units) and essentially if its too small it’ll struggle, too large and it’ll cycle off inefficiently.

“To calculate what size air conditioning unit you need for your home, you do need to think of the size of the space you want to run it in," confirms Katie, "but room specifics matter too," she says.

"Think of your ceiling height, insulation, windows and even the number of people in your given room. For instance, a sunny loft conversion will need far more power than a shaded ground-floor living room.

"As a rule of thumb, it’s always better to size slightly up rather than down," advises Katie. So consider buying a model that can more than adequately cover your room size, rather than just about being suitable.

“You’ll soon know if your air conditioner is too small for purpose too, as it’ll run constantly, attempting and failing to reach the target temperature," says Katie. "This is a waste of energy and can lead to higher energy bills.

“It’s also worth bearing in mind that portable air conditioners can’t cool multiple spaces at any given time," she adds, "so you will need one unit per key room. You can’t cool multiple floors with one unit as cool air doesn’t travel well up or down stairs, it settles in one space."

Shop these portable air conditioning units for your home

Convinced you have the right size unit but it's still not performing well? Check you're not making one of these air conditioning mistakes, and also ensure you haven't unknowingly located your fixed or portable unit in one of the seven places never to put air conditioning.

When the temperature starts creeping up, air conditioning feels like the ultimate home upgrade; but if you’re not using your AC unit properly, it could be working harder than it needs to (and running up your energy bills in the process).

From forgetting to clean the filter to plonking your portable AC in the worst possible spot, these air conditioning mistakes are surprisingly easy to make. And whether you’ve got a built-in system or a plug-in model, the small stuff really does matter when it comes to how well your AC actually performs.

We asked the experts to share the most common missteps they see, plus their no-nonsense tips on how to fix them so your space stays cool all summer long.

Air conditioning mistakes

Not all air conditioning is created equal, and neither are the mistakes people make when using it.

“Mistakes are different depending on whether you have a fixed air conditioning unit, or a portable air conditioner unit,” explains Nicholas Auckland, home energy expert at Trade Radiators. "The setup and day-to-day care can vary quite a bit depending on the type of system you have. For instance, built-in systems are more powerful and permanent, but they require professional servicing and space to circulate the air properly. Portable units, on the other hand, are easier to move but rely on proper venting and careful placement to work efficiently."

Understanding what your system needs is the best way to avoid wasting energy, hiking up bills, and unnecessary wear and tear on your device.

Built-in air conditioning mistakes

These common slip-ups with fixed systems can lead to higher energy bills and poorer performance. Thankfully, they’re easy to avoid with a little knowhow.

Skipping professional AC servicing

“Without getting your air conditioning unit professionally serviced, there’s a higher chance of filters getting clogged up, refrigerant levels dropping, and drainage lines blocking,” explains Nicholas Auckland. “This will lead to a major drop in efficiency and costly, bigger fixes.”

To avoid any potential issues like this, it’s a good idea to get your system serviced at least once a year, ideally ahead of the summer season when you’ll be relying on it most. A professional will check refrigerant levels, clean or replace filters, and make sure there are no hidden issues that could cause a breakdown later on. Between visits, you can help keep things ticking over by keeping vents clear of dust and checking for any unusual noises or drips.

Blocking AC vents (inside or out)

Good airflow is essential if you want your AC unit to keep functioning at its best. If you’ve accidentally placed furniture in front of the indoor vents, or your outdoor unit is crowded by leaves or fencing, your system is likely having to work much harder to maintain the ideal summer AC temperature.

“The indoor part of the unit needs to circulate air freely,” explains Nicholas Auckland. “If it gets covered in leaves or you build a shed right next to it, it can’t dissipate heat effectively, and will cost more money and energy to run properly.”

Setting the temperature too low

It might feel like a good idea to turn your AC down as low as possible on a hot day, but cooler isn’t always better and it won’t speed things up either. Instead, it makes the unit work harder, uses more energy, and often leaves you feeling too cold, only to turn it off and start the cycle all over again.

“The purpose of air con is not to make us feel cold but to keep the temperature cool enough so that we don’t suffer with the heat,” says Noel Fok, CEO and co-founder of EcoAir. “To achieve the best balance between comfort and energy efficiency, set your air con between 22 and 24°C.”

Not only is this range more than enough to keep things comfortable, it also helps reduce power consumption. “Power consumption reduces by 3–5% with every degree increase,” Fok explains. “Essentially, the lower the temperature, the harder the unit has to work to cool the space, which means more energy is used, pushing running costs up.”

Leaving windows and doors open

It might seem harmless to crack open a window for some fresh air while the air con is running, especially in a stuffy room, but it's one of the easiest ways to undo all the cooling your system is working so hard to achieve.

"Leaving windows open while the unit is running is a frequent issue, as it lets warm air in and wastes energy," says Chris Michael, managing director of Meaco. Without a sealed environment, your air conditioner ends up fighting a losing battle. If you're using your AC, make sure windows and doors are closed so that cool air stays in and hot air stays out. You'll feel the benefit much faster, and your energy bills will thank you for it, too.

Portable air conditioning mistakes

A portable air conditioner is a great option if you need a flexible way to cool down a room, but it will still need a bit of know-how to do it job well. Simple things like where you place the unit or how you vent it can have a big impact on its performance.

Not sealing the venting hose properly

One of the most common mistakes homeowners make with portable air conditioners is not properly sealing the window gap where the venting hose sits. “A lot of people simply hang the hose out of an open window,” says Nicholas Auckland, “this is a complete waste of energy, as the hot air from outside comes straight back in, fighting the cooling effect it’s creating.”

To avoid this mistake, make sure you're using the correct window kit for your model, and ensure that any gaps are fully sealed. Many kits are adjustable and easy to install, and this small step can make a big difference to how well your unit keeps a house cool.

Letting the hose sag or bend

Even if you’ve sealed the hose correctly, its position can still affect performance. If the hose is too long, sagging, or kinked around furniture or corners, the unit will have to work much harder to push hot air out.

“The hose should be as short and as straight as possible,” explains Nicholas Auckland. “A long, sagging, or sharply bent hose will force the unit’s fan to work much harder to expel the hot air. This reduces efficiency and puts a massive strain on the motor.”

Try to keep the hose upright and direct, and avoid running it across the room. The closer the unit is to a venting window, the better.

Blocking the airflow

For your portable air conditioner to work at its best, it needs room to breathe. “Placement is key with your air conditioner,” explains Katie Lilywhite, air treatment expert at AO.com. “Don’t fall into the trap of placing this in a corner or behind your furniture. The appliance needs to breathe and circulate air, all you’ll do is make it work inefficiently.”

Ideally, place the unit near a window for easy venting, and give it a bit of breathing space on all sides so air can move freely.

Ignoring the AC drip tray

As well as cooling the air, portable air conditioners also remove moisture from it, and on humid days, that means they can collect quite a bit of water (which needs somewhere to go). Most models have a drip tray or internal water tank, which can fill up quickly on hot days.

“During a humid UK heatwave, you might need to empty it daily or more often,” cautions Nicholas Auckland. “Most units will likely have a safety switch that turns the cooling off when the tank is full, leading people to think their unit is broken.”

Make it a habit to check and empty the tray regularly during hot spells or look for a model with a continuous drainage option if you want to keep maintenance to a minimum.

Forgetting to clean the filter

“The air filter will get clogged with dust and other debris as it works,” explains Nicholas Auckland. “A blocked filter basically starves the unit of air, making it work much harder, reducing its cooling power and causing it to use more energy.”

Cleaning the filter is usually a simple job ­– most can be popped out and rinsed under the tap – but when in doubt check the manual for how often to clean yours. As a rule of thumb, once every couple of weeks during heavy use is a good idea.

Placing the unit on an uneven surface

It’s easy to roll a portable unit into the nearest available spot, but uneven flooring can cause all kinds of issues. If the unit isn’t level, the water in the collection tray may spill out , leading to leaks or puddles on the floor. For the best results, place your unit on a flat, hard surface – not on a rug or sloped floor – and make sure it’s steady.

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If you're not in the market for installing air conditioning in your home, try this clever DIY air conditioning hack to beat the heat this summer.

If you are finding the summer heat is increasingly getting in the way of enjoying day-to-day life, you may well have been considering ways to cool your house down – but do you know where not to install air conditioning if you want it to be a safe and efficient way to prevent your home from overheating?

"You’d be surprised how often we see air conditioning units installed in the wrong place," reveals the founder of Elite Renewables, Martyn Fowler.

If you have been looking at making space within your home for air conditioning, be that a fixed system or a portable unit, here's the seven places never to locate it, according to the experts.

1. In direct sunlight

If there is one place that air conditioning units should never be installed it is in direct sunlight. This can make it really hard to know what temperature your air conditioning should be set on.

"Avoid installing indoor units on south-facing walls or in conservatories where they’ll be exposed to constant direct sunlight," picks up Stephen Day, operations manager at iHeat. "This not only heats up the unit itself but also the surrounding wall, causing the AC system to work much harder than necessary to maintain a cool temperature. This can then often lead to the thermostat misreading the room’s actual temperature, triggering overcooling or short-cycling, which, over time, increases both energy consumption and wear on the unit.

"Technically, it’ll still work, but at a huge efficiency cost," continues Stephen. "For optimal performance, AC units should always be placed on shaded internal walls or away from windows where radiant heat could disrupt their performance."

2. In the kitchen

While you might be desperate to find a way to keep your kitchen cool while you work over a hot cooker, air conditioning installation might not be the answer.

"While it may seem logical to cool one of the warmest rooms in the house, installing an AC unit in the kitchen is usually counterproductive," explains Stephen Day. "Kitchens naturally generate a lot of heat from appliances like ovens, hobs, and dishwashers, not to mention the added complication of steam and grease. This puts your air conditioning unit in direct conflict with a constantly warm, moisture-heavy environment, which not only makes the unit less effective but accelerates wear and tear, particularly on filters and internal components.

"If cooling the kitchen is important, especially in an open-plan layout, this should be done as part of a multi-split or zoned system," continues Stephen. "That way, the load can be distributed across several rooms, preventing one hot zone from dragging down the entire system’s efficiency."

"You also want to avoid installing AC near ovens, radiators or even the back of a fridge," adds Martyn Fowler. "These heat sources throw off the unit’s readings and force it into overdrive trying to cool a space that’s artificially hot."

3. In the bathroom

Bathrooms can get really warm in the summer months and can feel particularly stifling after someone has just enjoyed a long shower. But be wary of fitting air con in this room.

"Bathrooms are another spot to avoid," says Martyn Fowler. "They tend to be damp and poorly ventilated, which isn't ideal for the electrical components in an AC system."

Instead of using an air conditioning unit, focus on other types of bathroom ventilation to keep the space fresh and cool – a great bathroom extractor fan, for example.

4. Behind furniture or curtains

Air conditioning units are not usually particularly beautiful so it is understandable that you might want to hide yours away – but this could seriously affect its performance as well as causing your air conditioning costs to rise in terms of running it.

"Air conditioning units need unrestricted airflow to operate effectively, yet one of the most common mistakes homeowners make is hiding units behind heavy curtains, large furniture like wardrobes, or recessing them into tight alcoves," says Stephen Day. "While this might look tidier or feel more discreet, it severely limits the system’s ability to circulate air.

"The result is patchy cooling, poor efficiency, and uneven room temperatures for both wall-mounted and portable units," continues Stephen. "Always give your AC plenty of open space to distribute air freely, ideally with at least a metre of clearance in front."

"We recommend at least 15cm clearance from the ceiling and surrounding walls," advises Martyn Fowler. "That gives it the room to 'breathe' and cool your space effectively."

5. Directly over or opposite beds and sofas

The idea of lying in bed or reclining on the sofa being wafted by the cool air emanating from your air conditioning system might seem appealing, but you might want to think twice before positioning a fixed system directly above or opposite your favourite relaxing spot. This is where one of the best portable air conditioners might work better.

"It might feel like a good idea to install your AC unit directly above your bed or across from the sofa for instant cooling relief; however, this can lead to long-term discomfort," explains Stephen May. "A constant blast of cold air, especially at night, can cause dryness, sore throats and disrupted sleep, while in living rooms, it can result in an unpleasant chill when seated for long periods.

"While many modern systems come with 'wind avoid me' or louvre control features to redirect airflow, these shouldn’t be used as a workaround for poor placement," adds Stephen. "The better option is to mount units higher on a side wall and angle them so air flows gently across the room, creating a balanced, comfortable climate."

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6. Avoid outdoor units in tight spaces

If you are going for a split-system, you will have an outdoor unit and the location of this needs to be taken into consideration too.

"Outdoor units need space, airflow, and ventilation to work properly, and installing them in enclosed areas, like tight alleyways, under decks, or behind bins, can cause hot air to recirculate, leading to overheating and system inefficiency," warns Stephen Day. "A lack of airflow also makes the compressor work harder, increasing energy use and wear. These installations are also harder to access for servicing or repairs, meaning higher long-term costs and potential downtime should any issues occur.

"I recommend allowing at least 30cm of clearance on all sides of the outdoor unit and choosing a location that’s shaded but well-ventilated," further explains Stephen. "This ensures it can expel heat efficiently, perform reliably, and remain easy to maintain over time."

7. Portable units in large open plan spaces

Even the best air conditioners need to be located with care to avoid running into issues later down the line.

"Portable air conditioners are incredibly handy in the right context, but many people overestimate their power," points out Stephen Day. "An 8,000 BTU unit might be perfect for a bedroom, but it will struggle to cool a large open-plan kitchen or living area. These spaces often have high ceilings, multiple heat sources, and fewer containment barriers, making them harder to cool evenly.

"Compounding the problem are long or kinked vent hoses, which can reduce exhaust efficiency and can leak warm air back into the room, making them far less beneficial than they should be. If a portable unit is used, it should be placed in a smaller, enclosed space with a low-opening window for venting and a short, straight hose. They’re brilliant for bedrooms, home offices, or guest rooms, but for open spaces, a split or multi-split wall-mounted system is a far better fit."

FAQs

Where is the best place to fit air conditioning?

Now you know where not to put an air conditioning unit, where should you locate it if you want to reap all the benefits?

"The best place to install an AC unit is high up on a central wall so the cool air can circulate naturally," advises Martyn Fowler. "Shaded, north- or east-facing rooms are ideal, especially if you're aiming for maximum efficiency during the warmer months."

"Cool air naturally sinks, so mounting the unit near the ceiling allows for better air distribution and more effective cooling," picks up Stephen Day. "It also reduces obstructions from furniture and avoids direct drafts on occupants. Living rooms and main bedrooms are ideal, just ensure the external condenser is placed in a shaded, accessible area with good airflow, ideally on a side wall or secure base outside."

Another often-overlooked spot is above patio doors, according to Stephen.

"Windows and patio doors are notorious heat spots in a home, making them a clever area to target with cooling, so installing a unit above one of these openings not only maximises performance in high-heat zones but also makes use of otherwise unused vertical space," he explains. "It’s especially effective in smaller rooms or areas with awkward layouts, where wall space might be limited. Many of today’s wall units are designed to be slimline and discreet, so placing them above a window can blend aesthetically as well, just ensure there’s still enough clearance for maintenance and airflow."

Where do portable air conditioners work best?

If you have decided, on weighing up wall-mounted vs portable air conditioners, that a portable unit makes more sense for you, where will it be most effective?

"Portable air conditioners need two things to work efficiently: a short, direct vent hose and a clear space for air intake and circulation," explains Stephen Day. "The best set-up is near a window that opens low enough to easily route the hose outside. Avoid long, winding vent ducts, which can cause backflow and heat leakage.

"Place the unit away from beds, thick rugs, or any furniture that might block its intake vents," continues Stephen. "Ideally, it should be on a hard floor rather than carpet to reduce vibration and noise. These units are best suited to bedrooms, small offices, or spare rooms, spaces where they can be neatly vented and aren’t overwhelmed by room size."

If you have a conservatory or orangery you might well be struggling to keep it at a comfortable temperature right now. Our guide on how to keep a conservatory cool should help you start enjoying spending time in it again.

It comes as little surprise that more and more homeowners are researching types of air conditioning of late. Whether rising temperatures are making day-to day tasks such as cooking dinner a little more tiring, or you are struggling to sleep in a due to a bedroom that refuses to cool down at night, home air conditioning could be the answer to your woes.

While UK homes have, historically, rarely been fitted with built-in air conditioning units, our climate is changing and the availability of domestic systems is increasing meaning it makes sense to consider some kind of cooling system.

Here, we explain the main types of air conditioning worth considering, whether building from scratch or upgrading your existing home.

What types of air conditioning are worth considering?

In general, there are three main types of air conditioning that experts recommend looking into for domestic set-ups in order to prevent overheating.

"We typically work with three main types of air conditioning systems – split systems, multi-split systems, and portable units," explains Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables. "Each has its place, depending on the size of the home, budget, and how often the system will be used."

If you are longing for a more comfortable climate in your home all year long, read on to find out the best type of air conditioning for your needs and budget.

Split air conditioning systems

If you want a permanent unit that won't cost the earth but will still deliver powerful cooling where it's needed, a split system could be for you. While the air conditioning installation is a little more involved than with a portable unit, it remains fairly straightforward, although you will need a registered F-Gas engineer to fit it.

"Split systems are the most common for domestic use," picks up Martyn Fowler. "You’ve got one indoor unit connected to one outdoor unit. They’re efficient, relatively quiet, and perfect for cooling a single room.

"Wall-mounted air conditioners, typically part of a split system, are fixed installations designed to cool (and heat) single rooms quickly and silently and are a favourite among homeowners who require year-round temperature control without compromising on aesthetics," explains Stephen Day, a home cooling expert from iHeat. "They're usually mounted high on a wall and are connected to an external compressor, so they don't take up any floor space, and the noise, which for the most part is generated outside, is generally negligible. The majority of newer models run as quietly as 20-24 dB – quieter than a whisper, and because they use inverter technology, they'll keep your room at the same temperature without the constant on-off cycling that's both annoying and inefficient."

Wondering what this kind of unit will set you back?

"Installation costs usually start from around £1,200 to £2,500, depending on the unit size and setup complexity," reveals Martyn Fowler.

Multi-split systems

If you want more than one unit in your home and require greater flexibility in terms of how you can control the temperatures in individual spaces, a multi-split system is well worth considering.

"A multi‑split setup connects several indoor units to one outdoor compressor," explains Martyn Fowler. "This gives you room‑by‑room control and better energy efficiency."

A single outdoor unit can often have as many as 10 indoor units connected to it, each of which can be controlled separately.

"Installation usually starts at around £3 000, but you get more flexibility and comfort throughout your home," points out Martin Fowler.

Portable air conditioning units

If you just want the option of occasionally cooling a room and don't love the idea of spending a fortune on something you feel you might not use all that often, by choosing one of the best portable air conditioners, your needs could well be met.

"Portable units plug in and vent through a window," explains Martyn Fowler. "They are perfect for temporary or rented spaces where installation is not possible."

"They're essentially plug-and-play appliances on wheels, usually with an exhaust hose that needs to be vented outside of a window," picks up Stephen Day. They do come with some compromises compared to a wall-mounted model. The cooling potential is generally limited to small rooms, and even high-BTU models will struggle to cool big rooms or older homes with poor insulation.

"Because everything, including the compressor and fan, is contained in the single unit, the noise levels are louder, often 50 dB or more, which can be bothersome in bedrooms or offices," adds Stephen.

"Prices generally range from £200 to £600, but they do run louder and cost more to run compared with fixed systems," says Martyn Fowler.

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Ducted air conditioning systems

If you are building a house from scratch or carrying out extensive remodeling or renovation work, it might be worth looking into having a ducted system installed.

"Some homes opt for ducted systems, but they’re rare in UK homes due to the lack of space for ductwork," explains Martyn Fowler. "They're more suited to new builds or larger renovations where you can plan the infrastructure in."

Ducted systems often use heat pump technology and feature an outdoor unit and single indoor unit fitted within the loft space or sometimes in a basement. This unit is connected to multiple rooms, with the concealed ductwork leading to discreet vents.

Which type of air conditioning is best for me?

Still undecided which option is best for you in terms of wall-mounted vs portable air conditioning?

"I tend to steer people towards wall-mounted systems if they are homeowners (as opposed to renters), constantly need to cool (or heat) their home, value their home’s aesthetics and prefer a system that is efficient and quiet," advises Stephen Day. "These are a long-term investment, and in today’s climate, both environmentally and weather-wise, they make a lot of sense. You also get the benefit of smart controls, zone comfort, and much less intrusion into your interior design."

"Think about how much you will use your system," suggests Martyn Fowler. "In the UK air con is still mainly a summer luxury, but with hotter summers on the horizon, investing in a well‑rated system with low running costs really pays off. Check energy efficiency ratings, noise levels and the cost of installation before deciding."

FAQs

What type of air conditioning is the cheapest?

When it comes to air conditioning costs, it is true that portable air conditioners are cheaper to buy than wall-mounted units, but there is a little more to it than this, including running costs.

"You can get a good portable unit for £300 to £500, and sometimes less," says Stephen Day. "They also require no installation, which is a big appeal to renters or those in listed buildings where it can be impossible to get a wall-mounted set-up.

"However, while portable air conditioners appear cheaper upfront, that’s not the whole story," continues Stephen. "Operating expenses add up fast, and these units typically consume between 800 and 1,500 watts an hour, and at current UK electricity prices, which can be anything between 10p and 30p an hour. Also, because they typically lack inverter technology or precise thermostats, they might end up running longer and harder than is necessary, making them more expensive over time."

If you have decided a fixed air conditioning unit isn't right for you, be sure to look into how much a portable air conditioner costs to run before making your final choice.