The shed at the bottom of the garden has always been a domain of ambition, home to half-finished projects and forgotten hobbies. But post-pandemic, a growing number of homeowners have looked at that neglected square footage and seen something else entirely – a proper place to work.

Converting a shed into an office is genuinely achievable, and when done well, it can give you the separation between home and work life that no spare bedroom ever quite manages. The key, though, is making sure it's done well. A draughty, damp box with an extension lead trailing across the lawn is not a garden office.

In this honest guide, we asked experts what it actually takes to make a shed conversion work, from the roof right down to the floor.

Is your garden shed suitable for a home office?

Start by assessing its condition

Before you start pricing up desks and debating paint colours, it's worth taking an honest look at what you're working with. The condition of your garden shed is the make-or-break question.

"Ideally, you want a good, solid structure," says Mike Storey, Founder of UKFR Roofing & Insulation. "A normal off-the-shelf shed is usually fairly flimsy, so it needs to be a heavy-duty shed – or you can look to reinforce one. You also want treated timber, as it will need to last a long time if you're adding value to it."

Sam Jenkinson, Garden Shed Expert at Tiger Sheds puts it plainly: "Make sure the structure is sound, the floor feels stable and level, and there are no tell-tale signs of leaks, rot or moisture getting in. It's very easy to jump straight to the exciting interior bits, but fixing any structural issues first can save a lot of hassle, time and money later on."

Before any conversion work begins, the exterior needs attention too. "When converting a shed, it's important to ensure that it's watertight and sealed from the weather," says Becky Rackstraw, Director at Protek.

"If any roofing areas or loose or rotten wood need attention, then tackle this first. It may be worth using a stiff brush to remove any old, loose coatings and also remove algae – if needed, use a simple detergent water mix. This process will ensure there are no issues when applying the new product and help it last longer."

Think about size and placement

Size and position both matter more than people expect, but your shed doesn't have to be too spacious to be up to the task of home working. "We tend to find that for one person, a garden office doesn't need to be any larger than 2.4 x 3.0m," says Sarah Rumbles, Design Expert at Crane Garden Buildings. "This size will comfortably fit a good-sized desk, a chair, some storage, and a few personal touches, while providing a peaceful view of your garden."

John Whitney, Director of Eden Landscapes, agrees with Sarah's assessment but cautions against going too small: "We'd suggest a minimum of around 1.8m x 2.5m. That fits a desk, chair and a bit of storage comfortably. If you want a second screen, a printer or room for the odd visitor, go bigger – ideally 3m x 3m or more. People rarely regret sizing up."

The position of your shed in the garden also matters more than most people expect. "It's worth considering how much natural light the building will receive throughout the day," says Sarah. "Too much direct sunlight may make your building too bright to work in effectively, and too shaded may make it feel quite dark. A nice balance will yield the most productive working environment."

John flags a more practical consideration too: "Position matters for how far you'll need to run the power supply. If the office is a fair distance from the house, a Wi-Fi booster or mesh extender sorts the signal out cheaply, and an ethernet cable gives you a fixed connection if you want one."

Insulation, damp-proofing and electrics

There are three key areas that will make or break a shed office – insulation, damp-proofing and electrics – and all three reward proper investment. Get them right and you'll have a workspace that's comfortable year-round. Cut corners and you'll be cold in January, sweltering in July, and calling an electrician to fix something that should have been done properly the first time.

Insulation

Start with insulation. There are plenty of options on the market, but not all are equal. "Most will use PIR insulation board as it's often cheap and easy to find, but this can take up a lot of space," says Mike Storey. "Many of the off-the-shelf options you see on shed websites offer 25mm for the roof and walls, if lucky, but this won't really do anything other than keep a bit more heat in at night."

His recommended thicknesses are significantly more generous: 60-80mm on the walls, 100-120mm on the roof, and 50-75mm on the floor. "You would also want to look at the door and windows, as these are often single-glazed and will also increase the temperature in summer."

Sam Jenkinson reinforces the point: "The walls, roof and floor all need to be considered, as only insulating the walls can still leave the room feeling chilly and uncomfortable in the colder months. Good insulation helps keep the temperature more comfortable, but it can also soften outside noise, which makes a big difference when you're trying to concentrate."

Damp proofing

Damp proofing a shed starts at the top. "The biggest improvement is the roof," says John Whitney. "We'd recommend swapping traditional felt for an EPDM rubber covering. It's far more durable and keeps water out for decades rather than years."

Mike Storey agrees: "Rubber roofing is generally the best for sheds as it's flexible, easy to install, and has a base lifespan of 50 years. Felt is a cheap material that is likely to fail in a short amount of time." This SkyGuard Shed Roof Kit from B&Q is an excellent solution if you're up for the challenge of DIYing this step.

Beyond the roof, John recommends insulating the floor too, which keeps condensation down once the room is in daily use, and sitting the shed on a sound, level base. If you're tackling that step yourself, our guide to building a shed base walks you through it.

Treating the exterior timber matters just as much. Becky Rackstraw advises removing any old coatings before conversion begins and applying at least two coats of a quality wood treatment product, to ensure the building is properly sealed against the weather. Protek's range of shed and fence wood stains are specifically formulated to protect against the damp, rot and weathering that timber buildings are most prone to.

Electrics & internet connection

In a home office of any kind, electrics are non-negotiable and non-DIY. Any electrical installation in a garden building must be carried out by a qualified electrician, with a dedicated circuit and RCD protection. Running power out to a garden room for sockets, lighting and heating counts as notifiable work under Part P of the Building Regulations, so your electrician needs to be registered with a competent person scheme, or the work will need to be signed off by building control.

"It's also helpful to plan the office layout in advance," adds Sarah Rumbles, "particularly where your desk will be positioned, so your garden building installer can place plug sockets and other electrical points in the most convenient locations."

Heating & Ventilation

A well-insulated shed office will hold heat far better than an untreated one, but insulation alone won't keep you comfortable through a British winter. You'll still need a heat source, and electric heating is almost always the most practical answer, since extending your home's central heating out to a garden building rarely justifies the cost and disruption involved.

The simplest option is also the one the experts keep coming back to. "Run electricity to the building and use an electric or oil-filled radiator," says John Whitney. "Oil-filled radiators hold their heat well and are cheap to run in a small, well-insulated room." The only real risk is getting the size wrong, which is where a heat calculator earns its keep.

As Nick Duggan, Director of The Radiator Centre, points out, "a smaller, well-insulated office will need a vastly different heat output to a larger office with bi-fold doors or sliding patio doors," so it's worth doing the sums before you buy rather than guessing.

Ventilation is the piece most people forget. A small, well-insulated room with a laptop running and a heater on will get stuffy quickly, and poor air circulation leads to condensation, which is exactly what you've spent time and money trying to prevent.

An openable window is the minimum; a discreet wall vent, or small mechanical ventilation unit will do the job more reliably in a shed without much natural through-flow.

Suitable heaters for your garden shed home office

Finishing and fitting out your shed home office

Once the structure, services and insulation are sorted, this is the part people tend to enjoy most and it's where a shed stops feeling less like a shed and more like a proper garden office.

Flooring and walls do most of that work. A solid insulated floor covering, such as LVT, makes the space feel significantly more like a room than a garden building, and painted plasterboard or timber cladding over the insulation finishes the job. Becky Rackstraw at Protek puts it simply: "It will feel far more homely and like a room if you consider adding paint in a bright neutral to allow light to bounce around inside."

Office lighting deserves more thought than a single pendant, since natural light shifts considerably through the day, and across the seasons. Task lighting at the desk and ambient light for the rest of the room will cover you better than relying on daylight alone. Storage is worth planning at the same stage, before the rest of the fit-out goes in, since built-in shelving or a simple run of wall-mounted units keeps the floor clear, and stops the space drifting back into its previous life as a dumping ground.

The detail that matters most, though, has nothing to do with paint or shelving. "What shapes the day is what you're looking at," says John Whitney. "Design the interior around the outlook, so your desk faces something you'll enjoy seeing day after day." It's a small thing, but then so is the commute!

FAQs

How much does it cost to convert a shed into a home office?

Costs vary considerably depending on the condition of the shed you're starting with, how much of the work you take on yourself, and how far you want to take the fit-out. As a rough guide, a basic but properly done conversion – insulation, electrics, heating and a painted interior – will typically come in somewhere between £2,000 and £5,000. A more thorough project, with new roofing, flooring, quality finishes and professional installation throughout, can push closer to £8,000 to £10,000.

Do you need planning permission to convert a shed into an office?

"In most cases, no. Garden offices usually fall under permitted development, so no formal application is needed," explains John Whitney.

"The main conditions are that it sits behind the front of your house, is no more than 2.5m high if within 2m of a boundary, covers no more than half the garden, and is used as an office rather than for living in.

"Stricter rules apply to listed buildings and conservation areas" he adds, "so check with your local planning department if you're unsure."

Should you convert a shed or buy a purpose-built garden office?

"A purpose-built garden office is designed from the outset to function as a comfortable, long-term workspace," explains Sarah Rumbles. "It will typically include modern features such as insulation, double glazing, and high-quality construction materials that help ensure durability and year-round usability.

"While converting an existing shed may seem like a cost-effective option, its long-term performance will depend heavily on the age and condition of the original structure," she expands.

"If the building isn't constructed to a high standard, issues such as damp, draughts, or leaks can arise over time. A new garden office will usually come with a manufacturer's guarantee, giving homeowners added peace of mind that both the structure and its internal features are built to last."

Purpose-built garden offices to consider

If you don't have a garden shed you can convert into a home office, but yearn for a separate outdoor work space, find out what building a garden room involves. And, if you're considering making it multi-functional and a potential space for guests to stay, make sure you understand the rules around garden rooms with bedrooms.

There's no doubt that water pouring from your washing machine's detergent tray can be worrying. It can quickly flood your floor and put your washing machine out of action, leaving you without your much-needed laundry facilities.

But what causes it and is it always easy to fix? I was really hoping my problem would be straightforward, and simply be a case of cleaning the right parts. Unfortunately, it wasn't quite that simple, but it still was a job I could fix myself.

So, before you start looking at how long washing machines last and invest in a new one, or pay for expensive plumber call-out charges, follow the steps I took to resolve my leak and get my machine working like new.

Reasons why your washing machine detergent tray is leaking

The first thing you need to do is find out why water is leaking from the detergent tray. As you might expect, there can be a number of reasons, so it is often a process of elimination. I typically start with the simple, less time-consuming option if I’m unsure.

1. Blocked detergent drawer or housing

Ian Palmer-Smith, appliance repair expert at Domestic & General, reveals one of the most common causes: “A blocked detergent drawer or housing is a common cause of overflow, typically due to a build-up of detergent, fabric softener, or mould restricting water flow.”

I took my detergent tray out (a simple job we can all do) to see if it made any difference – but it didn't.

Water was still pouring out, but now I could see more of what was happening with the detergent tray removed.

My top tip at this stage? Make sure you have someone with you who can switch off the washing machine at the power point to immediately stop the water flow. Also, keep a bath towel nearby to stop any stray water from dripping onto the floor.

2. Blocked dispenser hose

Now I could see what was actually happening inside, I could see water flowing from the top of the tray, as it should. However, after a few seconds, the drain to the drum filled, and water once again flowed from the tray area onto the floor. Once again, make sure you have someone next to the power point for a quick switch off.

The fact the leak continued suggested the problem with my machine was down to a blockage somewhere else (and which I subsequently discovered to be in the dispenser hose).

Ian Palmer-Smith confirms this is another common problem. “A blocked or partially blocked dispenser hose can prevent water from draining properly into the drum, causing it to back-up and spill.”

3. Less common problems

There are also a few other issues that can cause water to spill out from the detergent tray, says Ian Palmer-Smith.

“Overuse of detergent or the use of an incorrect type, such as non-HE detergent (a non high energy product is more suited for older top-loading machines), in modern machines can also contribute to the issue by creating excessive suds, leading to foam overflow from the tray.”

“Other contributing factors include low water pressure or uneven water flow, which can prevent the drawer from flushing cleanly and cause water to spill forward," he adds, "as well as clogged spray jets that misdirect water towards the front of the dispenser.”

Shop these tools to fix washing machine tray issues

Cleaning the dispenser tray

If you have identified the leak is down to a dirty dispenser tray, cleaning it is an easy job and starts with you removing the detergent drawer and drawer compartment. Take a look at your instruction manual if it doesn't come out easily as there may be a certain method to follow for your particular machine.

Michael Forbes, lead product trainer at AEG, shares what to do next. “Warm water and a soft brush are usually enough to clear away detergent build-up.” To help keep it free from limescale, he also suggests you, "regularly run a maintenance wash using a dedicated washing machine cleaner, particularly in hard water areas.”

Keen to prevent the problem reoccurring? “Using the correct amount of detergent for the size of the load and your local water hardness is an important part of keeping your washing machine running efficiently,” advises Michael.

Even if the problem lies elsewhere, it's worth doing this job as well as any others you need to do to stop the leak.

Removing and cleaning a blocked dispenser hose

Before I started removing parts, I thought I'd try pouring hot water down the dispenser hose, combined with pushing a flexible pipe cleaner along the inside. This may work for you, but didn't for me as the blockage turned out to be caused by bits of foam lodged inside, so I had no choice but to access the innards of the washing machine.

Here's the steps I took to remove, clean and re-attach the hose.

1. Unplug from power and move

The first step was to switch off and unplug the washing machine before I did anything else. Safety first. Most washing machines also don’t sit out in the open, so, like me, you’ll need to drag it out to access the top cover. Instead of stretching the drain hose and risking damage, I simply put the end of mine into a bucket so the water didn't go on the floor.

2. Remove the top

The top or lid of a washing machine is typically held in place by a couple of Philips screws at the back of the machine. Undo these with an appropriate screwdriver and place them in a container. Slide off the top to see inside the machine.

3. Access the dispenser hose

To access the dispenser hose, you’ll need to undo the screws that hold the detergent tray in place (again, place the screws in the container you have to hand for this reason).

Now manoeuvre the tray to access the dispenser hose. You might also need to remove the water pipes on the back of the tray. I didn’t have to do this, but if you do, the holding clips are typically removed by pushing them together by hand.

4. Remove the dispenser hose

My dispenser hose is attached to the underside of the detergent tray so I unclipped it, pulled off the hose and moved the tray out of the way. You'll then need to remove the bottom of the dispenser hose. I needed a small spanner to loosen the clip holding it in place. Put the clip with the screws you've put to one side so you don't lose it.

Another quick tip is that if a clip is difficult to squeeze together, use a pair of pliers to make the job easier.

5. Clean hose and replace

Next, take the hose and remove any debris by hand. Mine was full of bits from foam padding that had broken up in the wash. However, generally, the blockage will be from a buildup of detergent. If this is the case, squeeze the hose to break up the detergent, then rinse through with warm water until it runs clear.

Now comes the fun part. Replace the dispenser hose and make sure any clips are in place. One option I often do is to take pictures of the removal and unclipping process to help your remember how the parts were fitted.

Also remember that he dispenser hose needs to be secure when you re-attach it otherwise, you'll be coming back to do the job again. Make sure you attach any pipes to the back of the detergent tray and put the tray back in place. Finally, secure the detergent tray and lid with the screws you put to one side.

Before you start the machine, make sure to check and clean the washing machine filter, as this could well have debris inside as well – mine did.

Where do you keep your washing machine? Could it be time to move it? Check out our utility rooms guide and small utility room ideas to make the most of your space. Or, how about an upstairs laundry room? It's becoming more popular with home renovators and it's easy to understand why once you look into it.

When it's time to hang that designer wallpaper you’ve had your eye on for ages, there’s guaranteed to be one obstacle with the potential to spoil a professional-looking finish – a power socket – and usually more than one.

Every home has them, so there’s no getting away from the fact that you will need to cut into your precious wallpaper when trying to paper around them.

To ensure a successful cut, you will need the right wallpaper tools and techniques, and a slow, methodical approach. Trying to rush through the process with a blunt tool will only lead to rough cuts, unsightly gaps, and the distinct possibility you’ll have to start over again. Follow this guide to make sure that doesn't happen.

Tools you’ll need to wallpaper around sockets

The right tools are essential for success when wallpapering around sockets. Nischal Pomu, Director at Platinum Paints, points out the two main factors you need to take into account.

"The main thing is to have sharp tools and take your time rather than trying to force cuts quickly,” he says, listing the following essential tools:

• Sharp snap knife - try this wolfcraft Metal Snap-Off Blade Knife from Amazon
• Wallpaper scissors - try these Harris Seriously Good Paperhanging Scissors from Amazon
• Screwdrivers
• Wallpaper smoother
• Seam roller – like this Stanley Dynagrip Soft Seam Roller from Amazon
• Spirit level or laser level
• Steel trimming edge/wallpaper guide
• Clean cloth and sponge – try the Spontex Decorators Sponge from Amazon
• Good quality adhesive suitable for the wallpaper type

How to wallpaper around sockets

1. Turn off the electricity and loosen faceplate

The key step is to switch off the electricity before you start any work. Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb, says. “I would recommend using a voltage tester afterwards to fully ensure that the socket is dead.” Alternatively, plug in a phone charger or a lamp to check if the socket is live.

Once you are sure the power is no longer live, “carefully unscrew the socket so that it is a few millimetres away from the wall," says Mark.

2. Hang the wallpaper

Now you can start to hang wallpaper. I always make sure the strip of wallpaper fully covers a socket to ensure a clean finish. Measure up before you start wallpapering to ensure you get a drop in the right place. Paste the paper, or wall, and hang. “Smooth out the wallpaper as normal," says Mark, "and allow it to fully cover the socket’s area.”

3. Locate socket and cut wallpaper

Once the paper is hung, the next step is to locate the socket. “Gently feel for the edges of the socket through the wallpaper,” says Mark, making sure you locate the middle of the socket and its corners.

Using a sharp knife, "cut an X shape diagonally from corner to corner across the centre of the socket," he suggests.

Alternatively, cut from the middle to the edges using wallpaper scissors. This is less likely to mark the face of the socket and might be a good idea if you have a metallic or painted finish.

4. Trim the excess

With your cuts in place, you will have four flaps of wallpaper. Get a pair of wallpaper scissors and start trimming. “Carefully trim the flaps back towards the edge of the socket, making sure to leave enough paper to neatly tuck behind the faceplate," says Mark, recommending you leave around 5mm to be sure.

5. Finish up

With the wallpaper trimmed, it's time to finish the job. “Use a wallpaper smoother to flatten the wallpaper around the socket," says Mark, "making sure to remove any air bubbles.”

However, for safety reasons, be careful not to squeeze any excess paste behind the faceplate. Give it a wipe if needed, re-tighten the faceplate and wipe down the wall and socket with a dry microfibre cloth such as these MR.SIGA Microfiber Cleaning Cloths from Amazon. Check there’s no excess paste left before you consider using the socket again.

Common mistakes to avoid when wallpapering around sockets

1. Overcutting

There is nothing more annoying than cutting away too much wallpaper and having to start again. "The biggest mistake DIYers make is overcutting too early," warns Nischal Pomu. "If you remove too much wallpaper around the socket, gaps can remain visible permanently. It’s always better to trim smaller amounts gradually," he says to prevent it from happening.

2. Using blunt blades

“I would recommend always using a sharp blade, as even the highest quality wallpaper can snag or tear if the knife isn’t incredibly sharp," advises Mark Irving. “Change the blade every few cuts, if possible," he adds, "to ensure that you are accurate with every try.”

3. Using stiff wallpaper

If you are working in awkward areas with stiff wallpaper, it's more prone to tearing, which can be hard to hide. A simple trick is to use a hairdryer, suggests Mark Irving, “Warming up any stiff wallpaper using a hairdryer can help the paper to flex around any awkward spaces.”

4. Ending up with uneven patterns

Hanging patterned wallpaper adds another level of difficulty to wallpapering around a socket. Get it wrong, and you’ll waste wallpaper and take more time. “For patterned wallpaper, it helps to dry-position the sheet beforehand so important parts of the pattern do not end awkwardly through sockets or light switches,” advises Nischal Pomu. This will help the wallpaper line up with adjacent sheets.

FAQs

Should I cover sockets before wallpapering?

“If the electricity has been safely isolated and the faceplate slightly loosened, you generally don’t need to fully wrap or cover the socket itself,” says Nischal Pomu.

However, it's never a bad idea to protect sockets against paste or moisture, especially if you're using traditional wallpaper paste. “Although a small amount of paste isn’t particularly a problem," says Mark Irving, "any moisture that gets into the plug holes or sockets could be very dangerous.”

There are a couple of options you can use to protect a socket. “Use painter’s tape over any openings," says Mark, noting how, "it is also possible to use cling film lightly wrapped around the socket, which will help to keep everything protected.”

Another way to prevent paste from seeping behind a loose faceplate, says Mark, :"is to carefully use a microfibre cloth behind a loose faceplate to catch any excess.”

The most simple and preventative method is to avoid overloading the wallpaper with paste around sockets in the first place. ”Instead, use a thin coat to reduce any mess," he advises.

How long before I can switch the electricity back on?

Electrical outlets and moisture don’t mix well. However, Nischal Pomu says you can switch the electricity back on almost immediately. “In most cases, once the wallpaper has been fitted, trimmed cleanly, and any obvious moisture around the socket has been wiped away properly, the electricity can usually be switched back on safely.

“You generally do not need to wait for the wallpaper paste to fully dry overnight before restoring power," he adds, "providing the socket area itself is clean, dry, and not saturated with adhesive.”

However, if there is excessive paste or moisture around the socket, it's best to leave it for a few hours. “If there’s any uncertainty around moisture entering the electrical fitting, it’s always safer to allow additional drying time or seek advice from a qualified electrician before switching the power back on," confirms Nischal.

Personally, I leave it for at least three or four hours to be safe. Even if I’ve covered a socket, I remove the covering and wipe it dry, but still leave it for an hour to be on the safe side.

If you don’t need the socket because you aren't living in your property while renovating or extending it, you can of course leave it longer. I always err on the side of caution when working with electricity, after having a few unwanted incidents.

When wallpapering around sockets, you need to get your cuts right. But getting this wrong isn’t the only wallpapering mistakes you can make. Try these wallpaper hacks to help avoid issues when wallpapering your home.

Vinyl planks are a popular choice for DIYers. They are comparatively inexpensive, offer plenty of design options, and are easier to install than other types of flooring. If you want a new floor, and to do it yourself, it's a fairly straightforward process.

However, you’ll still need the right tools and techniques to ensure a successful installation. Get it wrong and you could be left with a floor that looks worse than when you started.

I know exactly what's involved as it's a job I recently tackled myself, so I'm sharing the tools you’ll need, the time it will take (so you can plan ahead) and some smart tips and tricks to make the process easier.

Why I’m pulling up my old vinyl planks

Vinyl planks don’t last forever, so I decided it was time to get rid of the old, usher in the new, and give my kitchen floor a new look. There were a few reasons for saying goodbye, but the most obvious was that the top layer had worn away. The once-pristine wood-effect layer no longer existed in places and was showing through as white instead. It was not a good look.

But I have to say these were bought on sale, so it seems the old adage you get what you pay for rings true here. That said, I have had seven years out of them which isn’t bad. Although I would note that the quality wood-effect vinyl planks I bought around the same time for my hallway flooring are still going strong, and see more traffic.

Besides the lack of a top layer, a few of the planks had also cracked and pulled apart, and the glue was attracting dirt and food, and becoming difficult to clean. The last reason for changing them was the pattern. When I originally installed them I was trying to replicate the look of floorboards, but it didn’t work as well as I'd hoped.

The tools you’ll need to pull up vinyl planks

To get the job done effectively and efficiently, you will need the right tools to lift the planks, clean the subfloor, and prep it for the new vinyl planks.

• Scraper - like this Amazon Basics Soft Grip, Heavy-Duty, Bent Scraper
• Long-handled scraper
• Heat gun
• Floor cleaner
• Metal scourer – like these Marigold Scrub Away Stainless Steel Scourers from Amazon
• Sander
• Knee pads (optional) – try these Thunderbolt Knee Pads from Amazon

Shop for tools to help remove and replace vinyl planks

How to pull up the existing vinyl planks

Pulling up vinyl planks is relatively simple, but it can be hard work. If you’re lucky, the tiles may already be lifting, making them easy to remove with a basic paint scraper. My glued-down vinyl planks unfortunately weren’t easy to remove.

To start the removal process, I found an edge in a corner and eased up the first tile with a narrow scraper like this Dekton 2" Professional Scraper from Amazon. Once I had prised up enough of the first plank, I unleashed my secret weapons, a heat gun and a long-handled scraper.

Using the heat gun to warm the vinyl and the long-handled scraper to lift the planks makes the removal process much easier and quicker. Methodically heat the vinyl plank, use the small scraper to start and then the long-handled scraper to get under the plank. Keep the scraper at a shallow angle to avoid cutting into the floor (if wood).

As I’ve got a small kitchen floor – around 5m2 – I was done in just over an hour. But don't forget to factor in moving furniture, washing machines, cookers, etc as this will add more time.

Preparing the floor for the new planks

Lifting vinyl planks (mine were the peel-and-stick variety) will leave glue residue on the floor. This will still be tacky for a while, so you will stick to the floor while working. One tip is to fold a lifted plank or join two together - glue side to glue side – and place these where you are working to create a non-sticky surface.

To remove the glue residue, heat it up and scrape it off. You could keep a lifted plank nearby to wipe the glue residue from the scraper onto. The glue will stick to the scraper, so I occasionally warmed up the residue and wiped it off with a cloth to keep it clean.

Scraping rarely removes all the residue. But with a bit of elbow grease, a metal scourer, and a bucket of hot water with floor cleaner (I used this Method Floor Cleaner from Amazon), I managed to remove most of the residue. To finish – my subfloor is wood – I used a sander with 60-80-grit sandpaper. This helped remove any debris, levelled the floor, and improved adhesion for the new planks.

Choose a pattern

There are a few options when it comes to vinyl flooring laying patterns, so I decided to ask a few experts to see what they recommended.

Christof Schirlbauer, managing director of Waxed Floors, suggested a popular option. “A standard straight lay, also called a linear or brick bond pattern, where each row is offset by around a third to a half of a plank length, is the most straightforward to install and works well in most rooms.” I decided to go with a linear pattern, but wasn’t sure which way to lay it.

“As a general rule, lay planks parallel to the longest wall in the room or in the direction of the main natural light source," advised Christof. “Running planks towards the main window draws the eye down the length of the room and makes the space feel longer and more open.”

I decided to follow this advice, especially after Christof revealed what can go wrong. “Avoid running planks perpendicular to the light source where possible," he advises, "as this tends to highlight any unevenness in the subfloor."

The final decision I wasn’t sure about, was whether I should blend my new flooring layout, type and pattern with the next room. Yarl Christie, founder and managing director of Stories Flooring, shared his advice.

“Maintaining the same direction and pattern through adjoining rooms creates a more seamless and spacious appearance. However, it is not always necessary," he adds. "Changes in room shape, transitions between different flooring types, or practical installation considerations may justify changing direction between spaces. The decision should ultimately balance aesthetics with the layout of the property.”

My final decision? To match with the adjoining room as I had no issues with how this looked.

Laying new vinyl planks

The first thing I needed to decide was where to start. There are several options for this. Personally, I like to dry-lay the vinyl planks in the direction I've decided on. I move all the whole planks until there is an even gap on each side (on the long side). For extra accuracy, I then measure the gap to make sure it is uniform.

I adopted this approach with my new planks, and once this was done, I made sure the entire plank nearest the wall was aligned with the wall and marked the long edge with a pencil.

This gave me a starting point, from where I laid a full tile, and then continued to lay all the full-length tiles in my chosen pattern. Using a long straight edge (like a spirit level) is advisable when laying each new plank. Place it halfway along the edge of the laid plank and mark; this will give you a guide for laying the next plank.

Next came the fun part, cutting the tiles to fit and finish the pattern. For 90-degree cuts, simply measure the gap. I measured both the left and right edges of the gap where the tile was going and marked them on the plank. Using a straight edge, I lined it up with both marks, and used a sharp knife to cut.

Alternatively, you can use a laminate cutter such as this NAACOO Laminate Floor Cutter from Amazon. Note, these are much more expensive than a sharp utility knife, such as this OX TOOLS Pro Heavy Duty Folding Knife from Amazon.

If you need to cut along the length of a plank, place a plank against the wall, place a plank on top, line up the edges of the laid plank underneath, draw a line and cut. Leave a small gap around the edges of the walls and cupboards. I also use 2mm or 3mm tile spacers like these OX Trade Cross Shaped Tile Spacers from Amazon to make sure the gaps remain even.

FAQ

How many planks will I need?

This is pretty simple to work out. I measure the largest square/rectangular area and multiply the two lengths to get the square meters. Do the same for smaller areas (not the main area). Add the totals, then add 10% to make sure you have enough planks for awkward cuts, mistakes and general wastage.

Small packs such as these Rustic oak Natural Wood effect Self-adhesive Vinyl plank from B&Q are commonly around 1sqm, while larger packs such as these Wood Grain Effect Self-adhesive Vinyl Floor Planks from B&Q typically cover around 5sqm.

Replacing the flooring in your home gives you the perfect excuse to think about other renovations and updates. Check out our vinyl flooring ideas for every room for inspiration for your next project, and where to buy different types of vinyl flooring to suit your home improvement plans.

When you enter a colour drenched room, you’ll know about it, as the walls, ceiling, woodwork and perhaps other features will all be painted in the same hue. For immersive impact, this decorating technique is a popular paint trend and one that stands the test of time.

Whether you’ve visited a stately home with a colour drenched interior, or you’re aware of the cost and effort savings that come with this technique, you may be curious about how to colour drench a room in your own home. After all, as well as simplifying painting, there’s also a design incentive for colour drenching. When done effectively in a suitable space, this technique can add character, impact, and a point of distinction from the rest of the property.

If you’re in need of guidance on how to colour drench your space, find out how I colour drenched my spare room, along with the products I used to achieve the look.

Things to consider before you start

Naturally, the key consideration before colour-drenching a room is deciding which colour you’ll paint it. A light or moderately light shade of paint can make a room feel airy and spacious, while darker tones are often cosy, or even dramatic.

“Colour drenching is one of the most liberating decorating techniques because it simplifies the process,” says Lauren Shaw, head of marketing for DIY at Harris. “Working with a single colour across all surfaces – including walls, ceiling, woodwork, skirting and radiators – removes many of the usual headaches around cutting in between contrasting areas."

However, choosing the right paint colour is key. “Test your colour on every surface before committing,”advises Lauren. “Paint behaves differently on a ceiling versus a flat wall, and versus a primed door, and a shade can look very different once it’s on all surfaces. So, always test samples in situ, in both natural and artificial light.”

You might also consider including a few pops of a different colour in the space using the 'peek-a-boo' paint trend. This arguably detracts a little from the colour drench effect, but in my case, we thought that it broke up the look of the space nicely. Leaning into a contrast colour, we had our radiator powder-coated yellow at a local motorcycle respraying shop (some of these businesses will paint all sorts of metal objects).

It’s also well worth mulling over whether colour drenching is the right approach to decorating a particular room, as it may suit some spaces better than others. “Colour drenching is more powerful in smaller or awkward spaces, like hallways, cloakrooms and compact bedrooms,” Lauren advises.

Patrick O’Donnell, a brand ambassador for Farrow & Ball, recommends using colour drenching in spaces that are rich in architectural detail. “Colour drenching can be a useful tool when your room has a lot of decorative embellishments such as plasterwork detailing or panelling on walls,” he says. “It allows these details to register beautifully, without the need to pick them out in a separate colour to enhance them.”

What I used to colour drench my spare room

How to colour-drench a room: step-by-step

1. Select a colour drench-suitable paint

“One area where colour drenching does require extra care is paint finish selection,” says Lauren Shaw. “Using a single flat emulsion on every surface is one approach and works well for a solid, matte look. But for woodwork and high-traffic areas, you may prefer to introduce a slightly different sheen – eggshell or satin – to add durability and a subtle texture, while keeping the colour consistent.”

For our project, we used Farrow & Ball’s ‘Arsenic’ paint colour in a ‘Dead Flat’ finish, which is suitable for coating a wide range of surfaces including walls, woodwork and radiators. This helped to create a consistent look, while minimising cost and hassle.

2. Prep the walls and ceiling with undercoat

Apply one or two coats of primer to the walls and ceilings. If you’re painting over fresh plaster, you might need to decant some of the primer into a bucket and water it down slightly for the first application. This creates a ‘mist coat’ that should adhere successfully to ‘thirsty’ plaster.

Some modern paints are self-priming. If you’re using a self-priming paint to create the final look of your colour-drenched room, you might be able to skip this step.

3. Prep and undercoat the woodwork

First, sand the woodwork throughout the room – including skirting boards and architraves – as this will help paint adhere to the wood. Apply knotting solution to any knots in the wood (this limits sap bleed), and use wood filler to fill any gaps or blemishes.

Using a tube of caulk and a skeleton gun, caulk along edges of woodwork where it meets a wall or ceiling. Remove excess caulk with damp cloth while you work (and before the caulk sets).

Finally, undercoat the woodwork as required. Protect your floor using painter’s tape and/or dust sheets, and try not to overload your paintbrush.

Products to prepare your room for colour drenching

4. Paint the room with your top colour

It’s then time to bring your colour-drenched vision to life with your top colour. Begin with the corners of the room where walls and ceiling meet, then paint the flat expanses.

“We’d always recommend starting with painting the ceiling, moving to the walls and finishing with woodwork and any smaller details,” says Lauren Shaw. “This way, any paint spatter or drips are painted over as you work down the room.” As you can see in the photos, we used paintbrushes as we like a brushed finish in our house, but you could use a roller to speed up the process.

Use painter’s tape to avoid lapping paint onto protruding features such as plug sockets, switches and light fittings, and take care over painting the detail on woodwork, as this can easily become hard to see in a colour-drenched room. For this, use a finer paintbrush, and avoid loading the bristles with too much paint.

FAQs

Is colour drenching a traditional technique?

“Colour drenching has had an editorial drive for the last three years in the interiors press, but versions of ‘colour drenching’ have been used since the 18th century,” says Patrick O’Donnell.

“Back then, great houses would often paint large halls in versions of stone shades creating very subtle differences, where now, due to the variety of colours available, any colour can be used.”

The term ‘colour drenching’ originated much more recently. Some publications have stated that the term was first used in 2022, but Google Trends data shows that people were researching colour drenching as early as 2021.

Is colour drenching just a trend?

There’s no doubt that colour drenching has been especially popular in recent years. Some homeowners might fairly wonder whether this will turn out to be a short-lived fad, or an approach which stands the test of time.

“Remember, colour drenching as we now call it is an interior design trend, and trends do pass, so think about why you want to do it,” says Patrick O’Donnell. “It does ultimately add a simplicity to a scheme, and also it doesn’t have to be in a strong colour – colour drenching can also be very beautiful in off-whites and neutrals.”

Some would say that colour drenching is a passing fancy, while others might argue that the technique’s centuries-long history suggests otherwise. What really matters is how well the colour drenching fits the room, and how well a colour-drenched space suits your home.

Still need to brush up on your painting and decorating? Read our guides on how to paint over lime plaster, tips for painting skirting boards and sanding walls before painting.

Living in a hard water area, I feel like I'm in a constant battle against limescale, which seems to particularly love my shower head. If you can relate and are looking for a simple way to get rid of it – without spending all day scrubbing – you’ve come to the right place.

Limescale build-up can be particularly stubborn if it’s been there for a long time, as the deposits harden over time. With that in mind, it’s important to stay on top of this chore – otherwise, you could be left with blocked nozzles, permanent staining, and low water pressure.

While investing in a water softener is a good long-term solution, there’s also a simple fix that can get rid of limescale quickly, which our cleaning expert has shared below. Keep reading to see the before-and-after results from my shower and discover which £4 product solved it all.

How do I remove limescale from my shower head?

Removing limescale from a shower head doesn't have to be complicated. According to Kelly Moore, founder of Cleaning with Meaning, all you need is a bottle of white vinegar, some warm water, and a reusable bag.

Simply fill the plastic bag with a solution of one part vinegar and two parts water, secure it around your shower head, and leave it for a few hours or overnight. When the time's up, give it a gentle scrub with an old toothbrush and rinse it off.

Alternatively, citric acid also works well (and won't have such a potent smell!).

I swear by white vinegar for cleaning my home – whether it's removing mould from my washing machine drum or polishing glass and mirrored surfaces – so I was very optimistic about giving this a go. And, unsurprisingly, it worked a treat: my shower head was limescale-free within five hours of soaking.

What you will need

What causes limescale on a showerhead?

If you have hard water, minerals such as calcium and magnesium will be left behind on your shower head as the water dries. While it isn’t harmful, it does create an unsightly, chalky build-up over time, Kelly explains.

How can a water softener help with limescale on a shower head?

As previously mentioned, while carrying out regular cleaning is a good idea, a water softener is the best solution for long-term results.

"A water softener can help by removing the minerals that cause limescale before they reach your shower head," explains Lucinda Smalley, founder of Hard Water Home.

"They’re fitted to your mains water supply and remove calcium and magnesium, so your shower is no longer supplied with hard water. No more hard water means little to no new limescale, helping the shower head stay cleaner and work properly for longer."

Unfortunately, there’s nothing you can do about living in a hard water area, but regular shower head cleaning and investing in a water softener can help avoid this common problem.

For more cleaning tips and tricks, read our guide on how to clean a shower screen or find out how much a water softener costs.

If the water in your washing machine won’t drain, and there’s a flashing code on the screen, then you have a problem. You might be thinking, how long do washing machines last, and worrying that it could be a serious issue.

But don’t panic, the chances are it's much more likely to be something simple, and something that you can fix yourself. Before you do anything else, check the error code as this will give you a good clue to what the problem is.

Almost always, it's a sign that your washing machine filter needs cleaning. But as this can be a wet and messy job, here we offer a few smart, simple ways to make sure it isn't, and what you can do to stop your filter from getting blocked in the future.

How to clean a washing machine filter

Step one: drain the washing machine

If your washing machine isn’t draining on its own, you will need to empty it manually. Start by switching off the washing machine and unplugging it from the power.

To locate the filter, you'll typically find it at the bottom of the machine behind a small panel. Open the panel to get access ready for draining.

“Some models include a small emergency drain hose next to the filter," says Jag Sandhu, appliance expert at ASKO. "If your washing machine has one, this can be used to release the water with less mess.

“It’s important to take your time during this process," he adds, "as draining too quickly can lead to spills, so it’s always best to go slowly and carefully.”

What to do if there's no drain hose

Not every washing machine will have a drain hose next to the filter. If this is the case for your washing machine, you will need to take a different approach. As soon as you start unscrewing the filter, the water in the machine will pour out, so be prepared.

Jay Sandu suggests, "placing a towel or shallow tray underneath to catch the water, and opening the filter slowly helps you stay in control of the water flow.”

However, this can still be messy. One option is to invest in a washing machine drip tray with a drain funnel, such as the Washing Machine Drain Tray and the Washing Machine Drain Tray Universal Low Profile (both available on eBay).

Alternatively, you can take a DIY approach. A quick and cheap solution is to invest in a piece of similarly sized plastic plumbing pipe. For example, my washing filter is 60mm, so I bought this FloPlast Round Downpipe from Screxfix (it’s 68mm) and cut it to fit.

I cut down the pipe just below the halfway mark for a shallow curve, then cut the length to around 80mm. Hold it in place when unscrewing the filter to direct the water into a shallow tray.

Another option is to use thick tin foil, such as this Premium Heavy Duty Thick Kitchen Foil from Amazon and shape it into a funnel to direct the water into a tray. Both options work well and save on the cleanup afterwards.

Step two: clean the washing machine filter

Cleaning a washing machine filter is straightforward, but just remember to be gentle with it when doing so. Georgina Shepherd, cleaning expert at Housekeep, explains the cleaning process.

“Once you’ve removed the filter, rinse the filter under warm running water to remove lint, hair and debris.” If needed, remove debris by hand. Next, says Georgina, “use an old toothbrush or small cleaning brush to scrub away stubborn buildup.” After this, rinse again if needed.

Once the filter is clean, there is one last check to make, she adds. “Before reinserting it, check inside the filter housing too. Small objects like coins or hair grips can get trapped there. Then, securely screw the filter back into place before running a short rinse cycle to test it.”

Help keep your washing clean and lint-free

FAQs

Why isn't my washing machine draining properly?

Jag Sandhu, shares reasons why your machine might not be draining correctly. “The most common causes include a clogged filter, a blocked or bent drain hose, or small items like coins, lint or socks getting trapped during a wash cycle.”

However, the problem could also be a long-term buildup he notes. “Over time, everyday washing can lead to a build-up of debris, especially if pockets haven’t been emptied before loading.

“This can restrict how easily water flows out of the machine, leaving it sitting in the drum at the end of a cycle.”

If there is a problem, there will almost certainly be an error code. Michelle Feng, laundry expert at Hisense UK, advises to check the manufacturer's manual for more information or do a quick online search.

How often should I check and clean the filter?

It's easy to forget, but a washing machine filter needs to be checked and cleaned regularly. Michelle Feng says, “the filter should generally be checked and cleaned every 1-3 months.” However, this can differ depending on circumstances.

“If using the machine more than four times a week, a clean every month would be more suitable," she adds. "And, if you wash items that shed a lot of lint or contain debris (like towels or pet bedding), check more often.”

There are also a few telltale signs to look out for that require more immediate action. “If you notice slow draining, unusual noises, or poor wash results, it’s best to check it straight away rather than waiting," recommends Michelle.

How can I prevent blockages?

One of the simplest ways to avoid drainage issues is to check pockets for coins, paper, plastic, and any other debris before you wash your clothes. The less rubbish in a washing machine, the less chance the filter will be blocked.

“Avoid overloading the machine, use the right amount of detergent, as excess can build up in the system and wash heavily soiled items separately,” adds Michelle Feng.

In addition, you can use mesh bags for smaller items (this helps contain lint and debris). “Running a maintenance wash occasionally can also help keep the drainage system clear," says Michelle.

Keeping your washing machine working well for longer saves you money, but should you run a washing machine at night? For more maintenance tips make sure you also check out our guide to using white vinegar to keep your washing machine seal mould free.

Mosaic tiles can instantly elevate a room’s appearance. Their versatility and design diversity make them a perfect companion for floors and walls in any living space. They can enhance your hallway flooring, elevate your kitchen design and underline any smart bathroom designs you desire.

However, there are some subtle differences to standard tiles that any DIYer needs to know, whether you're using mosaic tiles when tiling a wall, or any other kind of surface.

Most mosaics conveniently come with a mesh backing to take the hard work out of spacing, but you’ll still need the right tools and techniques to get a professional-looking finish.

Tools you’ll need to install mosaic tiles

The tools you need to install mosaic tiles will differ slightly from a standard tiling kit. For example, you will need the right size trowel, shares Lorenzo Smith, Head of Product at Ca’ Pietra. “A smaller-notched trowel is important, as it helps control the adhesive bed and prevents it from pushing up through the finer joints.”

Another key essential to get right is adhesive to make sure that your tiles stay in place. "A flexible tile adhesive is the safest and most dependable choice," says Lorenzo. "White adhesive is often preferred for glass, marble, or lighter finishes," he adds, "so that the tone beneath does not interfere with the final appearance.”

In addition to the right trowel and adhesive, you’ll also need scissors to cut the backing mesh, tile nippers to cut the actual tile (a standard tile cutter won’t work), a rubber grout float, and a large sponge such as these GADLANE Jumbo Car Wash Sponges from Amazon.

A spirit level and a straight edge such as this ZZTX 12 Inch Stainless Steel Ruler from Amazon are also essential to ensure straight lines.

Shop for tile tools to install mosaic tiles

How to install mosaic tiles

1. Apply adhesive

To apply the adhesive, you will need a 4mm notch trowel.

"Spread in smaller sections so that it remains workable and applied at a consistent angle to ensure an even bed," says Lorenzo Smth.

One smart tip is to slightly flatten the ridges before placing the tile. Once the tile is in place, press down with a grout float or a similar-sized piece of board to help ensure good adhesion and a level surface.

2. Lay from the centre outwards

Although it can depend on the area being tile, as a general rule, start in the centre recommends Lorenzo Smith.

“With mosaics, beginning from the centre and working outwards often delivers the most composed result. This is especially true on splashbacks or feature walls, where symmetry is more apparent.

“That said, everything depends on a reliable starting point," he adds. “A perfectly level guide line is essential before any tile is fixed in place. Whether you begin from a central axis or a key edge such as a worktop, taking the time to establish that reference will define the accuracy of everything that follows.”

If you do start centrally, make sure to measure up (or dry-lay if possible) and see where the tile edges will fit against walls and surfaces. Luckily, mosaic sheets are pretty flexible, so you often don’t need to cut the tile, just the mosaic mesh, to get a good fit.

“It is also worth checking each sheet before installation," adds Lorenzo, "as small irregularities can sometimes occur during manufacturing, and these are far easier to correct before the tiles are fixed in place.”

3. Keep a consistent gap

The backing sheet of a mosaic ensures consistent spacing between the individual mosaics. However, when a sheet is placed on the adhesive and pressed into place, the mosaics can shift and twist slightly, so they are not always perfectly aligned.

Check by eye to see whether any of the mosaics are out of line. To ensure consistent alignment, I use a straight edge, a 30cm steel ruler, and place it in the gap and adjust any mosaic. I do this vertically and horizontally if needed.

Time spent at this point will ensure you don’t need to adjust later, which will be more difficult and time-consuming.

4. Cut in the correct way

When dealing with mosaic tile sheets, you rarely need to cut the actual mosaic tile, but if you do, there is a process to follow.

The first step is to, "cut the mesh backing first with scissors or a craft knife to separate the tiles you need," says Harriet Goodacre, interiors and tiling expert at Topps Tiles.

Make sure to measure and double-check before you cut so you don’t remove too many tiles. I can tell you from experience that it gets fiddly if you do, and have to start adding individual mosaics to complete a job.

If you need to make small cuts, you’ll need tile nippers, confirms Harriet. “For shaping, tile nippers are the easiest option, especially for curves or small adjustments. You simply cut away at the mosaic little by little, then smooth any rough edges with a file," she says.

I suggest a round file for curves and a flat file for straight edges. This will make sure your bathroom tile ideas look much more professional.

If however you need to make a straight cut across a full mosaic sheet, the best option is an electric tile cutter. To help ensure a straight cut, I apply wide masking tape to the front and back of the mosaic sheet where the cut will be made. This helps stop the mosaics from moving while being cut.

“It’s also worth remembering to wear gloves and safety glasses while cutting, particularly with glass mosaics, as small shards can break away," advises Harriet.

Shop these mosaic tiles for walls and floors

FAQs

Should I use tile spacers?

Tile spacers are a must when installing standard tiles, but mosaics are slightly different. Lorenzo Smith points out where best to use, saying, “tile spacers can be useful between sheets, particularly if you are less familiar with mosaic installation, though they are rarely needed within the sheets themselves.”

Personally, I think it’s easier to judge the gap by eye. But if in any doubt, use a spacer at both edges of the mosaic tile sheet to get an even gap.

The common gap between the mosaics is 2mm, so invest in a pack of 2mm tile spacers like these OX Trade Cross Shaped Tile Spacers from Amazon.

How do I choose the right mosaic tiles?

Choosing the right mosaic tile is the key to a smart finish. Alex Woods, bathroom expert at Victorian Plumbing, shares how to choose the right mosaic tile for your project.

“When deciding on your tiles, I would recommend holding a few options up against your wall or floor first to see how they look in the actual lighting of the room. Natural and artificial light can change how colours appear, so it’s worth checking before you commit.” Consider investing in a few different samples before you commit to purchasing.

“Mosaic tiles are typically small, busy patterns that can make a space feel more detailed and textured, while larger or simpler designs create a cleaner, more modern look," says Alex, "so it’s also important that the tile design suits the space. For example, lighter colours can make small bathrooms feel bigger, while darker tones can add contrast and style in larger areas.”

Lorenzo Smith's final tips for installing mosaic tiles? It's a simple tip, but it's essentially don’t rush.

“Take the time to step back and assess your progress at regular intervals," says Lorezo. This allows you to maintain a consistent finish, ensuring the final result feels cohesive and carefully executed.”

Mosaic tiles work well in bathrooms and kitchens and can add a whole new nuance to a room. Check out how to make the most of them in in these spaces with this range of kitchen wall tile ideas, and bathroom tile ideas for small bathrooms.

The lack of water pressure in the home is annoying, inconvenient and a sign that you need to take action. The biggest issue is deciding where the problem lies. Is it inside or outside the home? Determining the location of the issue helps you decide on the next step.

If the problem is outside the home, you’ll need to leave it to your water company to sort it out. It could be something like a burst water pipe outside the house or up your street. However, if the problem lies within the home, then it's your problem to deal with. Here you’ll find quick tests and simple checks to identify the problem and the best way to resolve it.

The minimum water pressure you should have in your home

The water pressure in your home can vary due to a number of reasons, but it's important that the water supply meets the minimum requirement. Jamie Heath, plumbing expert at Build & Plumb, explains what you should be getting: “In the UK, water companies are required to maintain a pressure standard of 0.7 bar for the pipes supplying a property.” This refers to the mains support point outside the home, where the water supplier's pipework connects to your own.

He adds, “This is the minimum force required to push water up to a height of 7 metres and roughly the height of a two-storey home, though suppliers often aim for 1.0 bar for better service.”

Shop these products to help test water pressure

Testing your water pressure

There are several methods for testing water pressure in the home. Tony Wells from the Bathroom Spare Parts technical team explains the options.

The jug test

“This is a flow rate test and is a quick DIY method to time how long it takes to fill a 1-litre jug from your tap.” He adds, “Around six seconds equals good flow, while slower than 10 seconds could mean a potential issue.” He advises, “This measures flow rate, not true pressure, but it’s a useful indicator.”

Add a pressure gauge

For a more accurate reading, a pressure gauge is a better choice, advises Wells, “You can attach a pressure gauge to an outside tap or washing machine valve.” He adds, “Ideal pressure is 1–3 bar for most homes. Above 3 bar may require a pressure-reducing valve.”

Simple checks you can do

There are a few quick and simple checks you can do before calling in a professional or the water company.

1. Check your stopcock

Heath says, “Making sure that your stopcock is fully open is essential, as even a slight restriction can impact the pressure.” Wells adds, “Check both the internal and external if accessible.”

2. Ask the neighbours

Heath says, “I would recommend asking any neighbours if they are experiencing similar issues, as the issue may come down to the local supplier rather than your home.”

3. Look for leaks

Wells points out, “Even a small leak can significantly reduce pressure.” Heath adds, “Look for any visible leaks, such as dripping taps or damp patches.” Saunders shares, “A hidden leak is a common cause of sudden pressure loss.”

4. Inspect valves

Lee Saunders, plumbing expert at Drench, suggests, “Finally, check any accessible valves on appliances or pipework.” He adds, “If you have filters or aerators on taps, these can sometimes become blocked and reduce flow without you realising.”

Ways to increase your water pressure

There are a few simple solutions to try before you need to progress to calling in a professional to solve the problem. Heath offers some quick fixes, “Cleaning out aerators, replacing showerheads or making sure isolation valves are fully open are all simple DIY fixes you can do to improve your water pressure.” Check our guide on how to increase water pressure in a shower for help.

If the DIY fixes don’t work and water pressure in your home is still consistently poor, one solution is to install a booster pump. Wells shares why, “A booster pump is one of the most effective solutions where pressure is consistently low.”

Wells says, “Expect to pay £150–£600+ for a pump depending on type, while installation will be £200–£500.” The total for the job will be £350+. He finishes by saying, “These systems increase pressure across specific outlets or the whole property.”

To find out more about a low pressure problem you can call in a plumber for a diagnostic visit. Wells shares what they will typically do. “A plumber will typically test incoming mains pressure, check for hidden leaks or restrictions, inspect valves, pipe sizing, and system design and recommend upgrades such as pumps or system modifications.” He adds, “A diagnostic visit will typically cost between £60-£120.”

FAQ

Is water pressure the responsibility of your water company?

Yes, to a certain degree, explains Saunders, “Water companies are responsible for supplying water up to the external stopcock at your property boundary. If pressure is low at this point, it is typically an issue for the water provider to investigate.”

Beyond this point, issues with low water pressure fall to the homeowner: “If the problem is within the internal plumbing of the property, then this falls to the homeowner, such as old pipes or blockages.”

Wells adds, “If you suspect a supply issue, you can request the water company to test pressure at the mains and investigate local supply problems.”

Getting your water pressure fixed can be a good time to think about some smart new additions in your bathroom or kitchen. On a practical level you can follow our replacing a kitchen tap guide. For inspiration and ideas take a look at kitchen trends 2026 and our bathroom design suggestions.

If you've ever experienced an ant invasion in your home, you know how relentless and determined these little pests can be – and how difficult they are to remove. One goes down, and it feels like another 50 come back.

Ants are attracted to food and moisture, which is why your kitchen, in particular, can be a hotspot when it's not kept clear. They are most active in warmer weather, making now the perfect time to learn how to prevent them as part of your spring maintenance checklist.

To find out the best approach, I spoke with three pest control experts to hear their top tips. Below, you'll discover five ways to keep your home ant-free this year, along with the products that can give you a helping hand.

How to get rid of ants in your home

1. Seal entryways
When it comes to getting rid of ants in your home, prevention is key. One way to do this is by sealing potential entryways, such as gaps, holes and cracks, using caulk or weatherstripping.

"If you spot ants in the garden, you can try following their trails to see how they are entering the property," advises Darren Backhouse, Partner at MJ Backhouse Pest Control.

Sealant shopping picks

2. Keep your kitchen clean and tidy

According to Daniel Steward, Managing Director of Shield Pest Control, ants are primarily drawn indoors by food. That’s why it’s so important to keep your kitchen counters clean and free of leftovers.

After preparing meals, make sure to wipe down surfaces to remove greasy residue, spills, and crumbs, and store your food in airtight containers. The same applies to your bins – you’ll need a tight-fitting lid to keep pests out.

Tony King, owner of The Pied Piper, says, "Sugar, flour and cereal need to be kept in airtight containers, and pet food should never be left out overnight. You need to clean counters and dining areas after every meal, making sure to get the little bits that may fall back into the space between the appliances and the baseboards."

These steps will also help to prevent mice and rats in your home.

3. Keep your garden clear

Do you have any tree branches or shrubs brushing against your house? If so, they could be acting as an "ant highway", according to Tony King. The same goes for mulch, leaves and firewood, which could attract ants (and other pests like slugs) into your home.

4. Vacuum the ants

"If ants are already visible, short-term solutions, such as vacuuming them up, can help reduce numbers quickly," says Daniel Steward.

However, he stresses the importance of emptying the vacuum promptly – and doing so somewhere away from your home; otherwise, the ants will eventually find their way back inside.

5. Consider a natural deterrent

You may also want to try a natural deterrent, such as spraying diluted vinegar, soapy water, or essential oils (like peppermint or tea tree) around your home. According to Daniel Stewart, these ingredients can disrupt ant trails and discourage them from entering.

However, he advises avoiding popular methods like salt, which are "not particularly effective and don't address the root of the problem.'"

What time of year do ants start to appear?

Spring is when ants typically start appearing in UK homes, as the weather warms up and colonies become active. Daniel Stewart explains that this is the time of year when ants leave their nests to forage for food and water, so they often go unnoticed in our kitchens.

Ant activity increases as we move into late spring and summer – especially during warmer spells or after heavy rainfall (similarly to fruit flies).

"Flying ants are most commonly seen in July and August, when reproductive ants leave their colonies to mate and establish new nests. However, the initial signs of ant activity indoors usually begins earlier in the season, making spring a key time to stay vigilant," he adds.

What causes ants to appear in the home?

Ants enter our homes for three reasons: food, water, and shelter. According to Daniel Stewart, "even the smallest crumbs or traces of food will attract them," and they leave a scent trail for their colony to follow.

It’s not just food residue you need to watch out for – sinks, leaky pipes, and damp areas are also attractive to ants.

"In many cases, ants seen indoors are coming from outdoor nests located close to the property, such as in soil, paving or near foundations. Warmer weather encourages them to explore further afield and homes provide ideal conditions with easy access to food and shelter," Daniel adds.

After speaking with pest control experts, it's clear that prevention plays the biggest role in removing ants from your home, so make sure you're wiping down surfaces regularly and blocking any entryways.

For more advice, read our guide on how to keep spiders out of your house and how to stop pests in insulation.

Sharpening a drill bit is rarely a second thought for most DIYers. It's straight out of the case, into a chuck and start drilling. But drill bits are not indestructible and are prone to wear and tear like every other tool. Eventually, the crisp and clean drill holes you once admired are no longer up to scratch.

You’ll have to work harder, regardless of the type of drill bit you have. So it makes sense to give your drill bit a quick sharpen when needed to bring it back to life. Plus, it will save you the cost of replacing your bits regularly. Here you’ll find out what tools you’ll need and how to do it yourself.

Why you need to sharpen a drill bit

A new drill bit works better than a used one, so sharpening it will bring it back to its best. Leigh Start, MD of Metal Store, says, “A sharp drill bit cuts cleanly and efficiently, while a dull one forces you to apply more pressure, generates excess heat and is far more likely to wander off your mark.”

Paul McFadyen, MD of Metals4U, suggests regular sharpening is key: “Sharpening a drill bit is an essential part of drill maintenance, and improves both safety and performance of the tool.” He adds, “A blunt drill bit is less effective at drilling into material, particularly when drilling into metal and masonry, taking longer to drill to the required depth.”

Leigh Start explains what can happen with a blunt drill bit. “When drilling into metal specifically, a blunt bit can also work-harden the surface, making it even harder to cut through. Regular sharpening helps protect both your drill bits and the workpiece.”

He adds, “A dull bit also increases the risk of grabbing or snapping, particularly with smaller diameters, which can damage both the drill and the material being drilled.”

Shop these tools to sharpen a drill bit

Tools needed to sharpen a drill bit

There are a couple of options when sharpening a drill bit, explains McFadyen, “You can choose to sharpen a drill bit by hand or using an angle grinder or bench grinder.”

Sharpening by hand

Manually sharpening a drill bit only needs a few tools, as McFadyen shares, “When sharpening by hand, you will need a diamond hand file for most drill bits, particularly those made for masonry or metal drilling, which are typically made from harder materials.

He adds, “A fine file is also useful for softer drill bits or for minor finishing improvements.”

Using sharpening tools

“If you’re confident and have the tools, a bench or angle grinder can be used,” shares McFadyen. Start adds, “A bench grinder with a fine-grit wheel is the most common workshop tool for sharpening HSS twist bits.”

Start offers an alternative for DIYers: “For more consistent results - and a more accessible option for most DIYers - a drill-mounted sharpening jig or dedicated drill bit sharpener can help maintain the correct angles and keep both cutting edges symmetrical.”

PPE protection

Whether you're sharpening a drill by hand or using machinery, you need to wear protective gear, McFadyen says. “Eye protection is especially key, whilst gloves can also be worn when sharpening using power tools. A well-ventilated area and a dust mask are also recommended to avoid inhalation of dust.”

Sharpening a drill bit

There are two common methods for sharpening a drill: by hand or with a power tool. McFadyen points out, “There are key differences between the processes, but many of the techniques remain the same for both.”

Start adds, “Wood bits are usually easier to sharpen with a file or small stone, while masonry bits with carbide tips generally require a diamond wheel and are often replaced rather than sharpened in a home workshop.”

Get the right angle

McFadyen shares how to start the sharpening process: “Start by cleaning the drill bit and inspecting it to see exactly where it needs to be sharpened.” He adds, “When sharpening, take your time and frequently check the bit to ensure you are sharpening it at the correct angle.”

Ensuring you have the right angle is important. Start says, “For standard HSS twist bits used on metal, sharpening is typically done on a bench grinder by restoring the original 118° point angle while ensuring both cutting lips remain the same length.”

Start explains how, “The bit is lightly touched against the wheel and rotated to recreate the relief behind the cutting edge.” To help get the right angle, try an inexpensive tool like this Drill Bit Grinder Tool Manual from Amazon.

Alternatively, if you regularly need to sharpen drill bits, invest in a suitable machine, such as this Drill Doctor DD500X Twist Drill Bit Sharpener from Amazon.

Tips and techniques

If sharpening by hand, McFadyen says, “For the cutting edges, follow the curve of them with your file, moving it away from the edge in short controlled motions.” He continues, “Start with one edge, and then move onto the other once you are satisfied.”

Finally, “For the chisel, simply ensure that the tip is honed and clean. Do not aggressively sharpen the point, as this can shorten the life of the bit.”

If using a powered sharpener like a bench grinder, McFadyen shares the process: “The same principles apply for using powered grinders. Take things slowly and maintain a firm grip on the drill bit. Ensure the angle is correct and frequently check the bit every few seconds.”

He adds, “Importantly, when using a powered tool, you will need to control the heat generated from the grinding process. Keep a cup of water on hand and dip the bit into it every time you inspect it.”

Once sharpened, make sure to check your handiwork, shares McFadyen, “Before using the drill, visually inspect it to ensure that the edges are sharp and of equal length.” He adds, “Following this, gently test it in some soft scrap material and keep an eye out for signs that it is not drilling correctly, such as squealing, wandering or refusal to bite.”

FAQs

How often should I sharpen a drill bit?

Start says, “There's no fixed rule, but it's good practice to inspect your bits before use and after any tough job.” He continues, “Common signs that a bit needs sharpening include squealing during use, needing to apply excessive pressure, heat discolouration and ragged or imprecise holes.”

McFadyen shares, “Much will depend on how often you use your drill, what you use it for, and the quality of the drill bit itself.” He adds, “Drilling into wood, for example, will require less frequent sharpening than drilling into stainless steel or masonry.”

How much does a professional charge to sharpen a drill bit?

If you are not confident in sharpening a drill bit, you can take it to a professional. This is inexpensive for single drill bits, as McFadyen shares, “This can vary, but typically the price per drill bit will be under £5.”

And it can be a quick job as well, continues McFadyen, “Depending on availability and demand, professional sharpening can be done fairly quickly, and you will most likely be able to pick up your sharpened tools on the same day.” Search for local services to see what's available nearby.

How many times can a drill bit realistically be sharpened?

This can vary by type and use, but as a general rule, McFadyen says, “Drill bits can be sharpened frequently, but after a while it is advisable to replace rather than repair them.”

He adds, “The main restriction is the condition of the chisel head. If this becomes broken or damaged, or is filed too thin, the bit will need to be replaced.” Start explains what happens each time a bit is sharpened: “Each sharpening removes a small amount of material, so the limiting factor is typically the overall length rather than the condition of the steel itself.”

He adds that the quality also affects sharpening: “Cheaper bits often don’t respond as well to resharpening, which is another reason why investing in higher-quality drill bits can pay off over time.”

Try these drill bit sets to replace your old ones: DEWALT Titanium Nitride Coated, 21-Piece Titanium Pilot Point Drill Bit Set, fischer 561649 D-U Hex Universal Drill Bit Set and this DEWALT Masonry Drill Bit Set (all available from Amazon).

Drill bits come in many guises and can handle many DIY tasks, including drilling into walls and drilling into metal. If you are tackling any of these tasks or taking on a house renovation project, make sure your drill bits are sharp and fit for purpose.

Getting rid of moss on your roof is more important than you might think. Not only is this fuzzy growth unsightly, but it can also wreak havoc on your home if left unchecked – reducing energy efficiency, blocking drainage and damaging the tiles.

While some cases of moss can be treated on a DIY basis (such as removing moss from lawns), sometimes it's best to leave it to the experts – otherwise, you could do more harm than good.

To find out how to get rid of it, and when you should hand the job over to a professional, keep reading. I spoke with two roofing experts to hear their advice, and we’ve also explored what could happen if you leave it too long.

How do I get rid of moss on my roof?

If you're dealing with minor moss on newer tiles, DIY removal is possible. According to Alex Morrisey, managing director of Best Roofers, the best method in this case is to use a soft-bristle brush on the affected areas.

You can also buy biocidal sprays to kill it at the root and reduce the chances of it returning (which is also used to treat moss on driveways and patios). Once you spray the area, the moss will eventually dry out, and rainfall will wash it away.

Alex warns that if your roof is more than 15 to 20 years old and has widespread moss growth, you will need to call in a professional. They will clean your roof, apply a preventative treatment, and check for underlying problems.

You should also avoid using pressure washers and stiff brushes, which can damage your roof and create “far bigger problems than the moss itself.”

Paull Newsome, Commercial Director of Vanguard Waterproofing Systems Ltd, warns, "I’d discourage DIY roof access where possible. In UK workplace data, falls from height remain the most common cause of fatal injury, and guidance sources summarising HSE/RIDDOR data also highlight ladders as a major contributor to falls-from-height injuries."

Is it worth having moss removed from a roof?

It might be tempting to turn a blind eye, but moss on your roof can develop into serious problems if left untreated, so it’s always important to remove it.

Alex Morrisey compares moss to a sponge in the way it absorbs and holds rainwater against your tiles. This can cause them to weaken, crack, become porous or lift, leaving your home less protected from heat loss.

“When tiles absorb water repeatedly, they weaken. Once you start getting gaps, cracks, or displaced tiles, you lose the thermal integrity of the roof. Heat escapes, cold air gets in, and your boiler ends up compensating for that," he explains.

What time of year is best to remove moss from a roof?

You can remove moss from your roof at any time of the year, but Paul Caruana, founder of IPP, says that spring or summer is best. The drier weather makes removal easier, and it's also when moss grows most actively.

How to stop moss growing on your roof

To prevent moss from growing on your roof in the first place, Paull Newsome recommends the following steps:

• Trim back overhanging trees to increase sunlight and airflow
• Keep gutters/valleys clear so water doesn’t back up and keep lower areas wet
• Consider zinc or copper strips at ridge level. Rainfall washes trace metal ions down the roof which helps inhibit moss/lichen over time
• Avoid pressure washing in most cases; it can damage finishes and drive water where it shouldn’t

While the moss on your roof probably never crosses your mind, it's definitely worth keeping it in check. “Catching it early is always cheaper than dealing with the consequences later,” concludes Alex Morrisey.

For more expert advice, read about the spring maintenance tasks you should leave to professionals and roof leak repair costs.

The wrong products can make a simple cleaning task ten times harder than it needs to be, which is why it's important to choose wisely.

When it comes to cleaning shower tiles and grout in particular, it can be tricky to remove the build-up of soap scum, grime, and limescale that has a tendency to stick to the surface.

I've always been curious about how professional cleaners achieve such a perfect finish, so I decided to ask them exactly what they use. To find out what they said, keep reading – these products will help you clean smarter, not harder.

1. White vinegar and water

If you’d rather take a natural approach to bathroom cleaning, Kelly Moore, founder of Cleaning with Meaning, recommends a mix of white vinegar and water. As a professional cleaner, she says it does a “brilliant” job at cutting through limescale and soap scum.

Vinegar contains acetic acid, which reacts with minerals such as limescale and helps dissolve them on contact. It’s a natural and eco-friendly method that is also very cost-effective, with large re-fill bottles costing as little as £10.

If you choose to buy it undiluted, mix one part vinegar with three parts water and transfer it into a spray bottle to apply to your tiles. Alternatively, you can buy a pre-diluted version that’s ready for cleaning (like the one below).

Kelly says, "I always recommend choosing plant-based, non-toxic and preferably refillable cleaners. These will get washed down the drain and into our waterways, so the gentler on the planet, the better."

If you live in an area with hard water, you may also want to invest in a water softener as a long-term solution.

Warning: avoid using vinegar on natural stone as it can cause damage.

2. Bicarbonate of soda

Kelly Moore recommends bicarbonate of soda for removing stubborn grime. Its alkalinity helps break down grease (like soap scum) making it easier to wipe away, while its slightly gritty texture can help lightly scrub your tiles.

Mix three parts powder with one part water to form a paste, then work it into your tiles and grout using a cleaning brush, and rinse it away.

Bicarbonate of soda can be used after the previously mentioned vinegar mix, but make sure the vinegar has been rinsed away; otherwise, these two ingredients will counteract each other.

3. De-scaler

For those who prefer a ready-made solution for tackling limescale buildup, you can opt for a specialised descaler instead. John Zentveld, a cleaning expert from HG, explains that the acidic nature of these products dissolves the mineral deposits in limescale.

“Limescale forms when hard water evaporates or is heated, often found on taps, shower heads and shower tiles. To use [a de-scaler], simply spray the product on, leave it to work for up to five minutes, and then rinse off," he says.

4. Mould remover

If you need to remove mould in your bathroom, John Zentveld recommends using a dedicated mould remover. These products contain biocides, such as bleach or hydrogen peroxide, that kill the spores at the source.

This approach will prevent mould from growing back – unlike regular cleaners, which only remove surface-level grime.

What's the best technique for cleaning shower tiles?

Ever wondered how professional cleaners achieve that perfectly polished finish? Kelly Moore explains her secret:

1. Let your cleaner sit for a few minutes to loosen the grime
2. Scrub the shower gently with a soft brush or toothbrush
3. Work from the top down so the dirty water doesn’t drip onto clean areas
4. Rinse and wipe using a damp microfibre cloth
5. Use a squeegee (like this shower squeegee from Amazon) after every shower to prevent limescale building up

Whether you're looking for a home-made or ready-mixed solution, there are plenty of affordable ways to clean your shower tiles – and it's relatively simple to get a professional result yourself.

For more expert advice, read our feature that explains whether electric shower cleaners worth it or learn the best way to get rid of black mould in your bathroom.

As the temperature rises with the arrival of spring, magpies, crows, badgers and foxes will start their hunt for some of their favourite snacks – chafer grubs, also known as lawn grubs. These are the larvae of beetles, such as chafer beetles, as well as the larvae of crane flies (known as leatherjackets). The larvae live just below the surface of the lawn and the animals and birds will scrape and dig in search of them, destroying the lawn in the process.

But it's not just the larger prey that can cause damage – the grubs do their fair share of harm themselves, too. They can attack the grass roots, which leads to slow growth and yellow patches on your lawn.

If you've been busy perfecting your lawn care, then seeing your hard work destroyed thanks to pesky grubs can be devastating. But don't worry – we've brought together all the expert advice you need to keep these pests at bay.

How to get rid of chafer grubs using beneficial nematodes

When it comes to chafer grubs, the go-to approach to tackle these intruders tends to be with beneficial nematodes, available on Amazon. These are microscopic, living organisms that infect the grubs with a deadly bacterial disease.

Nematodes occur naturally in soil, and some companies, such as BASF, breed specific types that each seek out and kill particular prey. Their dedicated products arrive in the form of a fibrous paste, which you then disperse in water (following mixing guidelines). "The watery mix can then be applied via a watering can with a coarse rose for a small lawn or with a hose-end feeder for larger lawns," the team at BASF explains. Be sure to follow the instructions on your chosen product's label, though, as application methods may vary.

"Once the garden chafer grub and leatherjacket population has been reduced by the nematodes, the large amount of nematodes applied will die back to their original numbers found naturally in the soil," explains BASF.

This treatment tends to be quick and effective. "Normally, two treatments are sufficient to exterminate a colony," says John Negus, a renowned gardening expert and author of Garden Tools, An Illustrated Guide to Choosing, Using and Maintaining, available on Amazon.

And once you've dealt with the pests, repair damage either by laying new turf or sowing grass seed in mid to late spring. This is when any leftover grubs move deeper into the soil to pupate.

"Poorly maintained lawns are more susceptible to damage, so attention paid to lawn care can help avoid infestations," John adds.

Shop for nematodes to get rid of chafer grubs

Nematodes are ideal is you're looking for a natural and non-chemical way to tackle lawn grubs. But, there are alternative options available, too. Here are three well-rated products.

When is the best time to get rid of chafer grubs?

As well as knowing how to get rid of chafer grubs naturally, for the biggest chance of success, you'll also need to know the best time of year to take action.

"The critical times for controlling this pest are April and September," says John Negus. This is partly because, for the nematodes to be effective, they need to be applied when the soil is warm and moist (between 12–20ºC, as the RHS advises). But also, at this time, the grubs will be nearest the surface of the turf and thus feeding on the roots.

Add it to your list of other spring and autumn lawn care jobs and you'll be rewarded with a healthy stretch of green.

You can also add nematodes as a preventive measure from July to September, the RHS says.

And if you're specifically looking to get rid of leatherjackets, a good rule of thumb is to wait two weeks from when you first see crane flies (usually in spring) before applying nematodes. Then, apply again in two weeks' time, keeping the soil moist throughout, says BASF.

How do you know if you have chafer grubs in your garden?

As John Negus says, the damage from lawn grubs can usually be spotted in spring or autumn.

Watch out for patchy areas of lawn turning yellow and dying, and more birds being attracted to it than usual in their hunt for the larvae.

In terms of the grubs themselves, beetle grubs, such as chafer grubs, have stout white bodies curved in a 'C' shape, light brown heads, and three pairs of legs at the head end, says John. Many kinds can be up to 18mm long.

And as for leatherjackets? BASF explains: "Leatherjackets are about 25mm long, brown, legless and with no distinct head."

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Warm, sheltered and undisturbed, the insulation in your home makes the perfect nesting spot for pests such as mice, rats, and wasps – none of which you'd particularly want in your loft.

Not only can these pesky creatures cause damage to your insulation, decreasing its effectiveness, but they may also leave droppings and urine behind, which can pose a serious health risk.

To find out the best ways to prevent them from settling in your insulation – and how these tiny creatures get there to begin with – I spoke with three pest control experts to hear their advice.

How do you stop pests in insulation?

 1. Block the entry points

The best way to stop pests from nesting in your insulation is by blocking off access points. To do so, Daniel Steward, Managing Director at Shield Pest Control, recommends inspecting for gaps around fascia and soffit boards, vents, pipe entry points and cable holes – all of which are common routes into insulated areas.

"Any damage to roofing materials should be repaired promptly and vents can be covered with fine mesh to prevent entry while still allowing airflow," he adds.

2. Moisture control

As well as blocking entry points, Daniel also advises keeping moisture levels low in your home by fixing leaks promptly, reducing condensation, and maintaining good ventilation – a damp loft is a golden opportunity in the eyes of a pest.

You can solve most of these problems by ensuring your home is fitted with extractor fans in wet rooms and investing in one of the best dehumidifiers (though this won't be suitable for use inside an unconverted loft). You can check your home's humidity levels using a hygrometer.

3. Keep your loft space tidy

By keeping your loft space clean, tidy, and free from clutter, you'll reduce the chances of rodents (such as mice) settling in, as they will have fewer sheltered spots to choose from, explains Daniel.

4. Remove food sources

One of the fastest ways to attract pests into your home is by leaving out potential food sources. Things like leaving wood waste outside your property and using loose lids on your bins are big no-nos and are likely to attract a long list of unwanted creatures.

The same applies to your garden, too. You should avoid leaving bird seed too close to your property or having overhanging branches close to your roofline, warns Daniel.

5. Watch for early signs

Watch out for warning signs such as scratching and scurrying noises, droppings, chewed wiring and nesting material, all of which could point to an infestation in your insulation. The sooner you find out and can take action, the better.

"If pests have already entered the insulation, acting quickly is important, as contaminated insulation may need to be professionally removed and replaced to fully resolve the issue and prevent further spread within the property," says Daniel.

"In these cases, it’s always advisable to contact a professional pest control company and we can assess the situation, safely remove the infestation and recommend proofing measures to help prevent further damage to the home."

What causes pests in insulation?

We now know how to prevent pests in our insulation, but what actually causes them?

"Pests are attracted to any place that provides shelter and a food source, and will climb pipes, wiring, trees etc. to find an entry point – particularly in insulated lofts," says Darren Backhouse, Partner at MJ Backhouse Pest Control.

"We’ve seen this happen before through roof damage or gaps in a property exterior that let mice, rats or even squirrels in. We’ve also dealt with rats in cavity walls where they used the insulation for nesting."

Tony King, pest control expert at The Pied Piper, adds that the quiet, dark and undisturbed nature of a loft makes it the perfect place for pests to breed and raise their young. Homes with small entry points near the roofline, vents, or soffits offer easy access.

What are the signs of pests in insulation?

According to Daniel Steward, these are the the main signs of a pest infestation such as squirrels in the attic:

1. You can hear scratching or scurrying noises
2. You can see droppings and urine
3. You notice chewed wiring and nesting material

To recap, the easiest way to prevent pests in your insulation is by blocking the access points and making it as unhabitable as possible.

For more pest control advice, read our guide on how to deter wasps and how to get rid of rats in your home.

If you're in a relentless battle against the moss on your driveway and patio and can't seem to shift it, this expert guide will help you every step of the way – from the quickest way to kill it to how to prevent it from coming back.

Not only does moss look unsightly, but it can also loosen your paving, cause freeze-thaw damage in winter, and pose a potential slip hazard when it’s wet. As you’re probably aware, moss grows very quickly – particularly in the spring and autumn when the weather is mild and damp, making this the best time to tackle it.

To find out the fastest way to remove, kill, and prevent moss on your driveway and patio, we spoke with garden, landscaping, and driveway experts to hear their top tips learned over the years. While you're here, you may also want to learn how to kill moss in lawns.

What kills moss on driveways and patios?

The best way to remove moss from hard surfaces is by using a dedicated moss killer, advises Daniel Wickham, owner of First Impression Driveways. You'll need to make sure it's appropriate for your driveway material, and if you're unsure, he recommends checking with your local garden centre (but most brands will label this clearly on the bottle).

Alternatively, Daniel suggests mixing water with diluted household bleach (one part bleach to ten parts water). Rub the mixture on the surface, wait 15 to 20 minutes, scrub with a stiff brush, and rinse thoroughly with water. Just ensure you wear gloves and protective glasses.

However, while it might be tempting to jump straight to killing moss, Laura Bradbury, Head of eCommerce at VonHaus, recommends removing it first – which she explains in the next section.

How do you remove moss on driveways and patios?

"The most effective first step is removing the moss physically. For small patches, a stiff outdoor brush can work well, but tools designed for hard surfaces can make the job much easier," says Laura Bradbury.

One tool she recommends is an electric weed sweeper, which has a rotating brush designed to pick up moss, weeds and debris from paving joints and textured surfaces. A dedicated weed tool also works well for removing moss from the cracks between slabs and block paving – before the need for chemicals.

"Once the moss has been cleared, rinsing the surface and allowing it to dry properly helps prevent it from quickly returning," Laura adds.

How do you prevent moss on driveways and patios?

Removal is all well and good, but prevention is what will stop moss in its slippery tracks. Here's how you can achieve it:

1. Keep your driveway and patio dry
Moss thrives in damp conditions, and while you can't control the weather, you can ensure your driveway or patio is free from leaves, soil, and grass.

Laura Bradbury explains that debris can trap moisture against the surface, giving moss the perfect environment to grow. The solution could be as simple as regular sweeping or using a leaf blower to keep things dry. You should also ensure you have a good drainage system, adds Daniel Wickham.

2. Keep paving joints clear
"It also helps to keep paving joints clear, as moss and weeds often begin growing between slabs or block paving. Occasional maintenance with a weed sweeper or weed removal tool can stop small patches from spreading across the surface," says Laura.

3. Manage moss in grass
Moss can quickly spread from the edge of your lawn onto your driveway or patio, which is why seasonal lawn care is crucial.

Moss can be tricky to keep on top of, but by following these expert removal and prevention tips, it will become much easier.

For more expert advice, read our guide on how to clean block paving to get rid of weeds or whether you should use weed and feed on your lawn.

Did you know that, on average, people spend 80 to 90% of their lives indoors? That’s why having good air quality at home is so important – especially since it has a direct impact on your health.

It’s common knowledge that you shouldn’t smoke inside and that installing a carbon monoxide alarm is best practice, but there are plenty of other ways you can help improve the air quality in your home, like upgrading your insulation and investing in an air purifier.

To find out what they are – and how to tell if your air quality is poor – we spoke with ventilation experts to hear their advice on what you can do about it.

How to improve indoor air quality

1. Install sufficient ventilation

To lower the risk of respiratory problems, you’ll need to ensure your home is properly ventilated, according to Simon Redfearn, Managing Director of Redfearn Experts.

By combining the methods below, you’ll help remove pollutants (such as nitrogen dioxide and carbon monoxide) and reduce moisture build-up that can cause dust mites and mould growth.

• Open windows for purge ventilation
• Use extraction fans in wet rooms, such as kitchens and bathrooms
• Use trickle vents in windows for constant background airflow

2. Improve insulation in your home

To maintain a steady, controlled temperature (which will help prevent cold spots, damp and subsequent mould), make sure your home is sufficiently insulated. Here are some methods that Simon Redfearn recommends:

• Airtightness measures: "While making a home 'airtight' with better insulation can improve energy efficiency, it requires modern ventilation systems – such as mechanical ventilation with heat recovery (MVHR). This ensures air is still replaced, preventing air quality from degrading."
• Double/triple glazing: When paired with trickle vents, double or triple glazing can help prevent condensation, reduce draughts, and support controlled ventilation.
• Cavity wall and loft insulation: Cavity wall and loft insulation can also reduce cold spots on walls and prevent condensation – as long as there is proper ventilation.

Shop home insulation

3. Invest in an air purifier and dehumidifier

Air purifiers are an easy way to clean the air in your home by removing unwanted particles. When “dirty” air is sucked in through the fan, it passes over a filter that neutralises contaminants before releasing sanitised air back into the environment.

"A unit fitted with a true HEPA filter captures fine particles such as pollen, dust, pet dander and mould spores. Air purifiers are built to circulate and filter the air continuously, often achieving multiple air changes per hour in a room," says Chris Michael, co-founder of Meaco.

Most models also come with air quality sensors and a display, so you can monitor your home and keep track of particulate levels, he explains.

If your home has high humidity levels, it may also be worth investing in a dehumidifier to remove excess moisture caused by daily activities such as showering and cooking. You can also buy one with a built-in air purifier.

Chris explains that while they won’t clean the air, the best dehumidifiers can improve the overall environment by preventing mould growth and dust mite activity. However, dehumidifiers can have a negative effect if mould is already present, as they may circulate airborne spores.

4. Follow air quality best practices

Here are some other indoor air quality guidelines, recommended by the NHS:

• Don't smoke or vape inside your home
• Use gentle, fragrance-free cleaning products
• Avoid plug-in fragrances
• Choose low VOC paints and varnishes when decorating
• Keep indoor burning to a minimum, including coal fires, candles and log burners
• Ventilate your home while cooking and cleaning
• Fit your home with a carbon monoxide leak alarm
• Ensure new appliances have proper ventilation
• Regularly service your heaters, cookers and boilers 
• Vacuum regularly (even better if it has a HEPA filter)
• If you live near a busy road, shut your windows during rush hour
• Test for radon in your home

Signs of poor air quality

If you're concerned about poor air quality in your home, Simon Redfearn says to look out for the following signs:

• Regular headaches, dry eyes, nasal congestion, or worsening asthma
• Persistent condensation on windows, damp patches on walls, or visible mould growth in corners or behind furniture
• Lingering smells from cooking, cleaning products, or a general 'stale' feeling in the air
• Moisture levels consistently above 60%

Indoor air pollution can cause short-term respiratory symptoms and long-term lung, heart, and blood vessel problems, so it’s worth making these small but important changes in your home.

If you found this helpful, you may also want to learn what damp smells like and whether air purifiers help with mould.

Your days of dull, cloudy shower screens are about to be over, because we've discovered the best way to clean them and make your bathroom feel like a professional cleaner has spent hours on the job.

While it might seem like a small part of your bathroom design, a dirty shower screen make a big difference on the overall feel of the space – and can even make it appear smaller if it gets particularly murky.

In this step-by-step guide, we've consulted cleaners and bathroom experts to find out how to clean a shower screen, which products could be making it worse, and ways to prevent those pesky watermarks from coming back.

How to clean a shower screen

1. Wipe down your shower after use
The most effective – and easiest – way to clean a shower screen is to do it little and often, advises Kelly Moore, founder of Cleaning with Meaning. You can prevent soap and limescale build-up by wiping it down each time you use it, or by investing in one of the best window vacs for extra ease.

2. Deep clean it every one to two weeks
While a simple daily wipe-down will put you in good stead, you should still make time for a deep clean every one to two weeks.

For gleaming results, Kelly mixes white vinegar with warm water in a 1:1 ratio, sprays it onto the glass, leaves it for a few minutes, then wipes it down with a soft cloth or sponge. She then rinses with warm water and dries it with a microfibre cloth to prevent unwanted streaks.

"I prefer to avoid harsh sprays and rough sponges as they can damage the glass and the seals over time. Gentle, regular cleaning keeps your shower looking fresh without harming your home or the environment," she adds.

Shop our shower cleaning essentials

How do you get hard water stains off shower screens?

"Hard water stains are caused by limescale, which is best tackled with something mildly acidic," explains Kelly Moore. "White vinegar works really well and is a more sustainable, affordable option than chemical cleaners."

Follow these steps to remove hard water stains from your shower enclosure:

1. Spray vinegar directly onto the stained areas, or soak a cloth and press it against the glass
2. Leave it for 10 to 15 minutes, then wipe clean
3. For stubborn marks, a sprinkle of bicarbonate of soda can help lift the residue
4. Rinse thoroughly and dry the screen afterwards. Drying is just as important as cleaning when it comes to preventing stains from coming back

Can you use Fairy Liquid to clean shower screens?

Yes, Fairy Liquid (or any other washing-up liquid) can be used to lightly clean your shower screen, but it’s not the best solution for limescale or soap build-up, Kelly Moore explains. The formula is designed to cut through grease – not mineral deposits – so you might find it leaves streaks on the glass.

"If you do use it, make sure it is well diluted and rinse thoroughly afterwards. For better results, and a more eco-friendly option, stick to vinegar, plant-based cleaners or natural alternatives that are kinder to both your bathroom and the planet."

If your home has hard water and is prone to limescale build-up, you may want to look into installing a water softener to make cleaning easier.

What should you avoid cleaning a shower screen with?

Now you know the best way to clean a shower screen, but are there any products you should avoid? Yiota Toumba, Senior Designer at Villeroy & Boch Group, advises against using anything that could scratch or wear down the surface, including:

• Abrasive pads
• Scouring creams
• Razor blades
• Strong alkaline or bleach‑based cleaners

How do you prevent limescale and water marks on a shower screen?

"Limescale and water marks form when mineral‑rich water dries on the glass, so the key is stopping droplets from sitting there for long," explains Yiota Toumba.

Here are some of her top tips for preventing build-up:

• Wiping the screen with a soft cloth or squeegee after each shower
• Good ventilation, such as using an extractor fan or opening a window
• Light, regular cleaning

It might feel like a lot of effort to clean your shower screen after every single use, but this simple habit will make the world of difference to how your bathroom looks and feels.

For more cleaning advice, our guides on how to remove pink mould in the shower and the best way to solve mould in the bathroom include lots of practical tips.

Pantry moths (and their larvae) are an absolute nightmare to deal with: chewing through your food packaging, laying their eggs, leaving droppings, and just being a general nuisance flying around the kitchen (similarly to fruit flies).

The worst thing about pantry moths is that part of what causes them is out of your control, as they are sometimes already infested in sealed food before you've even brought it home from the shops.

However, you're not totally powerless in the fight against these pests, and there are a number of ways to prevent them, such as using glass containers instead of plastic. Below, you'll find expert advice from pest control experts on the causes, signs and how to get rid of them.

How to get rid of pantry moths

1. Find the source
If you suspect a pantry moth infestation, the first step is to go through your dry goods – such as flour, pasta, pet food, and rice – and look for signs like webs and larvae. Throw out any infested food, even if it’s sealed.

2. Clean your kitchen cupboards
Once the affected items have been removed, do a deep clean of your pantry, starting with a thorough vacuum of all surfaces.

Next, Tony King, a pest control expert at The Pied Piper, recommends wiping down your cabinets and shelving using soap or vinegar until all eggs and larvae have been eliminated.

3. Invest in airtight containers
Finally, make sure all food you buy in the future is stored in airtight containers made of something sturdy, such as glass, metal, or hard plastic. Although simple, Tony says this is the most effective way to prevent pantry moths from multiplying further.

Keep your pantry protected with our shopping picks

What is a pantry moth?

Pantry moths are small flying insects that sneak into stored goods such as flour, cereal, rice, pasta, and pet food – sometimes before the products even reach the supermarket shelf! They are also known as the Indianmeal moth.

According to Tony King, the adults lay their eggs in dry food, and it is their larvae that contaminate and damage the products. While they don’t pose any toxic danger, he warns that they can destroy large quantities of food and make the area unhygienic for use.

While their cousin, the carpet moth, can be found in natural fibers such as clothing and certain types of flooring, the pantry moth lives in dry food storage.

What are the signs of pantry moths?

According to Darren Backhouse, Partner at MJ Backhouse Pest Control, you know you have a pantry moth infestation if:

• You spot tiny moths flying around the kitchen
• You discover webbing in food items and containers
• You see larvae inside your dry goods; these are about 1/4 inch long, cream-coloured and look a bit like maggots

You may also notice droppings around your kitchen (small brown specks), tiny white eggs, or food that is discoloured and clumps together.

What causes pantry moths?

This might be surprising, but the most common way for pantry moths to enter your home is through infested products bought from the shops. Darren Backhouse explains that they then spread to other stored foods that are not properly sealed.

"That’s why it’s important to clean out cupboards regularly and use sealed containers for dried foods."

While they're certainly unpleasant, a pantry moth infestation doesn't indicate a dirty home – just the need for better food storage solutions, which can be easily achieved.

For more pest control advice, read our guide on how to get rid of rats and how to kill silverfish in your bathroom.

If you’re struggling with a fruit fly infestation, I truly feel your pain. As someone who has just got rid of a month-long invasion in my kitchen, I understand how annoying – and persistent – they can be (similarly to wasps).

After accidentally leaving a gifted box of apples at the bottom of an unused cupboard, I was suddenly faced with an influx of these pesky critters swarming around my home for weeks – with no idea why it was happening.

To find out how I finally won the battle against these irritating insects (and what causes them to appear in the first place), keep reading. I spoke with pest control professionals to learn the easiest way to get rid of them good and how long it can take.

How to get rid of fruit flies

1. Remove the source
Horrified after finding the box of mouldy apples, I quickly chucked them into the outside bin to prevent the flies from multiplying any further.

Even if your fruit and vegetables haven’t reached this state, Tony King, a pest control expert at The Pied Piper, advises removing any food source that is getting overripe, as it will lure them in.

2. Create a trap
Some people are sceptical about whether natural, DIY traps are actually effective, but let me assure you that this one collected hundreds of fruit flies – no exaggeration.

To recreate it yourself, follow the steps below:

1. Pour apple cider vinegar into two plastic cups
2. Cover each cup with cling film and poke small holes in the top
3. Balance an electric fly swatter over the top (I left mine on charge so it was constantly on, but I kept an eye on it)

Tony says, "To trap the adult flies, I usually set up traps using vinegar or fruit-based lures, which aid in quickly reducing their numbers."

3. Maintain a clean home
Don’t forget to regularly empty your rubbish bins and ensure drains are unblocked and cleaned thoroughly, Tony adds.

Get these fruit fly trap essentials delivered next day

How long does a fruit fly infestation last?

"Once breeding sources are removed, infestations tend to subside within a few days, with most problems resolving completely within one to two weeks," says Daniel Steward, Managing Director of Shield Pest Control.

If you can’t seem to shake a fruit fly infestation, this usually indicates that a hidden food source or damp problem needs to be addressed.

How do you prevent fruit flies in your home?

1. Store food correctly
The most important step in preventing fruit flies is careful food storage and good housekeeping, advises Daniel Steward. This means keeping groceries and leftovers in sealed containers or in the fridge, regularly emptying your bins, and storing compost securely.

2. Cleaning
Remember to wipe down your worktops regularly – particularly if you’ve just prepared food – and keep on top of bin and drain cleaning.

3. Set up traps
While removing food sources is his number one prevention tip, Daniel recommends setting up simple vinegar traps during the warmer months, when waste is typically more exposed.

4. Early intervention
"For homeowners undertaking renovations or maintaining older properties, understanding how pests interact with the building fabric is essential," he says. "Shield Pest Control advises that early intervention, particularly where timber and moisture are involved, can prevent minor issues from becoming major structural problems."

Fruit flies reproduce at an alarming rate – hundreds in just a few days – so tackling the source of the problem is the quickest way to eliminate them for good.

If you’re dealing with more than one pest in your home, check out our guides on how to get rid of deathwatch beetles and rats.

There’s only one thing sadder than taking down your Christmas decorations: opening up a box of tangled lights and broken baubles the following year. However, with a proper system in place, you can avoid this altogether.

Packing up ornaments may not be your favourite Christmas DIY job, but after exploring the storage solutions below, you'll be itching to get organised ahead of 2026.

To discover the best way to store your Christmas décor – so you can focus on decorating rather than sorting next year – keep on reading. From baubles and wreaths to lights and fragile ornaments, we’ve created a complete guide for you to follow, along with the products the experts actually use.

How to store fragile orgaments

To help fragile ornaments last longer, Poppy Duffree, Founder of Organised Interiors, recommends using storage products that are specifically designed for each type of item – especially baubles, which come in all shapes and sizes.

She says, "As an example, bauble storage boxes have grids that allow each bauble to be protected, ensuring they aren't scratched by each other, or shattered by the weight of heavier decorations." These can easily slot into your existing built-in storage.

Alternatively, Jordana Ashkenazi, Interior Designer and Founder of Element One House, recommends using shoe boxes with cardboard dividers as a cost-effective solution.

To protect your baubles without the need for plastic, she suggests wrapping them in tissue paper saved from gifts, old muslin cloths, cotton bags, or shredded craft paper.

Once you've sorted your decorations, it's best to store them by zone rather than by type. Jordana explains, "Organise items based on where they go in the home to make next year’s decorating quicker and less stressful."

Shop these Christmas storage essentials

How to store artificial trees and wreaths

Artificial trees:
Don't settle for the original box that's been hanging by a thread for who knows how many years – buy a specially designed bag instead, which has compartments for all the parts to ensure they don't get lost.

Poppy Duffree says, "Whilst many of these bags are soft fabric, we always recommend structured bags with sturdy sides so that the tree itself remains damage-free."

Wreaths:
Tempting as it might be to shove your wreath in an old box, this isn't the most space-efficient way to store it. On top of that, you'll also risk damaging your decorations if you put them all together.

Poppy Duffree says, "You can purchase wreath storage bags that specifically fit the size of your wreath, so you're taking up minimal storage space and can also be confident that your wreath is protected. Again, these often come with handles, making them easy to move in and out of storage areas."

To help preserve its shape, Jordana Ashkenazi suggests hanging the bag inside a wardrobe or on a hook.

How to store Christmas lighting

I don't know about you, but I absolutely dread taking down the Christmas lights each year – they always end up in a tangled mess that takes ages to sort through.

The solution? Poppy Duffree says, "Make life easier for yourself the following year by wrapping the lights around something sturdy so they don't become tangled. There are firelight reel organisers you can purchase for this, or you can simply use a piece of sturdy cardboard to wrap the lights around."

Jordana Ashkenazi says that magazines and padded boards also work well, which help to protect the wiring and extend the lifespan.

Top tips for organising your Christmas decor

If you want to stay as organised as the professionals, follow their quick tips below:

1. Use clear, reusable storage boxes: "This helps you see what's inside at a glance," says Kelly Moore, Founder of Cleaning with Meaning.

2. Create a simple labelling system: "Use either eco-friendly sticky labels or, even better, a set of colour-coded fabric tags to tie to each box."

3. Group your decorations: "You can sort decorations by type, such as baubles, lights and garlands, or by room."

4. Create an inventory list: "Keeping a small inventory list inside each box, or even a photo of the contents on your phone, saves time and avoids rummaging through everything."

5. Start with a gentle declutter: "Before packing anything away, take a few minutes to sort through what you truly want to keep," says Jordana Ashkenazi. "Recycle anything broken beyond repair, and donate usable items to schools, churches, or charities to give them a second life."

As an added benefit, decluttering can also help to reduce damp in your home.

6. Make a mini repairs kit: "Include spare hooks, glue, ribbons, ornament hangers, and batteries. A quick-fix kit makes decorating smoother next year."

7. Leave yourself a note for next Christmas: "Write a reminder about what to replace or purchase early next season. It’s a simple way to make next year more efficient."

How to prevent damp when storing decorations

To keep your decorations free from damp, Kelly Moore recommends storing them in natural, breathable materials that reduce the risk of mould. Elevate boxes off the floor, wrap fragile items in recycled paper, and use silica gel sachets to absorb excess moisture.

Jordana Ashkenazi concludes, "Storing Christmas decorations well makes homes feel calmer, more organised, and more sustainable. A thoughtful system protects memories, reduces waste, and simplifies next year."

For more advice on organising your home, take a look at these living room storage ideas and these loft storage ideas.

Want to know how to lay kitchen floor tiles? There’s plenty to consider and many choices to make to ensure your kitchen floor looks good and lasts. Before laying any tiles, you’ll need to decide which type of tile suits your style and budget.

Then, you must make the right design decisions. Will your selected tiles match your kitchen ideas? Getting it wrong can be an expensive mistake. After that, check and prepare the floor correctly. If you skip this step, you might find yourself replacing tiles sooner than you'd like. Here, we guide you to make the right choices to achieve the kitchen floor you desire.

Best type of tile to use on a kitchen floor

There are several options for kitchen floor tiles, but porcelain tiles are a popular choice. Abbas Youssefi, managing director of Porcelain Superstore, shares why. “For most modern kitchens, porcelain tiles are the go-to choice. They’re dense, durable, and handle everyday family life without easily marking. They also work brilliantly with underfloor heating, and the latest designs convincingly mimic the look of natural stone without the upkeep.”

Isabel Fernandez, director of Quorn Stone recommends porcelain or natural stone, “Porcelain is durable, low-maintenance and water-resistant, while natural stone adds timeless character and texture.”

But, points out Stephen Russell, tiler at Ashley Cross Tiling, “ Choice is a complete personal preference.” He adds, “Porcelain and stone are both hard-wearing, but ceramic tiles are typically the budget option.”

Youssefi suggests an alternative budget option, “If you're on a tighter budget, LVT tiles are typically the most affordable option; but for longevity, porcelain is hard to beat.”

Try these to help lay kitchen floor tiles

How to prep the floor for kitchen tiles

How you prep the floor depends on the type of floor you have. The easiest floor to work with is typically concrete. Russell explains how to prep, “If a concrete or screeded floor is flat, no preparation is needed. However, if the floor is uneven, use self-levelling compound to even out the floor and use powdered floor adhesive for all these types of floors.”

If you have a wooden floor or floorboards, you need to prep differently, explains Colin Lincoln-Evans, Buyer at Tile Mountain, “In the UK, tiling directly onto old floorboards is a common cause of cracked grout and loose tiles. The best practice is to use a high-quality cement-based tile backer board, securely fixed and fully supported, to create a rigid, stable surface.”

Russell says, “Use cement board screwed down every six inches.” He adds, “Use a mask if cutting it with an angle grinder.”

If you are tiling over underfloor heating, Russell says, “Use self-levelling compound to cover the wires. Then use floor tile adhesive to lay the tiles as normal.” He adds, “At no point should you use nails or screws for any reason as these could damage the heating wires.”

Lincoln-Evans adds, “It’s essential to use flexible tile adhesive and grout to cope with thermal movement, with larger format tiles, an anti-fracture membrane should be considered.”

Where to start laying kitchen floor tiles

The shape of the room can have a bearing on where you start, but Isabel Fernandez points out the common option, “A common starting point is the centre of the room. This ensures the pattern stays balanced and cut tiles are positioned along the edges where they are less noticeable, giving a neat, considered finish.”

To ensure that you get the best finish, Russell says, “Measure out the room to gauge where you will get the biggest cut tiles to walls and units.” He adds, “Small cuts look bad and are hard to cut. Avoid at all costs.”

After measuring up, Youssefi says, “It’s worth dry-laying a few tiles first; it only takes a minute and gives you a clear feel for the best place to begin.”

What you’ll need to lay kitchen floor tiles

To tile a kitchen floor properly, Youssefi suggests the following gear.

• Tile adhesive and grout - use a powdered adhesive
• Notched trowel - the size depends on tile size (often 10mm for floors)
• Tile spacers or levelling clips - to keep joints even
• Tile cutter - manual for straight cuts, electric wet cutter for more awkward cut-outs (thy thos for heavy duty tiles (Excel 920mm Bridge Wet Tile Cutter from B&Q)
• Rubber mallet & spirit level - to keep tiles flat as you go - (try this Tough Master Spirit Level Set from Amazon)
• Grout float - to work the grout into the tiles (try this QEP Molded Rubber Grout Float from Amazon)
• Silicone - for movement joints around the edges
• Buckets, sponge and mixing paddle - simple but essential

Stephen Russell recommends the following tools, “Wet cutters are best for DIYers as floor tiles can be very hard to cut.” He adds, “A deep-notch trowel is needed as tiles need to be buttered on the back as well as putting adhesive on the floor.”

He adds, “Use a gauge trowel (like this OX Pro Brick Trowel from Amazon) to knock up the adhesive if you don’t have a drill with a mixer (like this Silverline Mixing Paddle from Amazon). In addition, he adds, “Buckets, grout float, pencil and sponges to clean as you go, and for wiping of excess grout when grouting.”

Tips for laying kitchen floor tiles

1. Choosing the right pattern

This can depend on the tile chosen; some are more straightforward than others. Fernandez says, “Classic patterns like a straight grid or running bond work well in kitchens.” If doing the floor DIY, it's best to stick to simple straight-line patterns. But herringbone and stretcher bond patterns add interest.

2. Open up space with large tiles

Fernandez extols the virtues of larger floor tiles: “Larger tiles can make a space feel more open.” However, she adds, “Consider the room size."

Lincoln-Evans adds, “Larger format tiles can make a kitchen feel more spacious because there are fewer grout lines breaking up the floor, but they do demand a flatter subfloor and benefit from a tile-levelling system to keep lippage to a minimum.”

3. Applying adhesive

Adding adhesive is straightforward, Russell says, “Apply adhesive to the floor using a deep-notch trowel and butter the back of the tile to form a good bond.” If new to tiling, have a few practice runs first.

4. Clean as you go

“Clean as you go” is Fernandez's advice. Russell adds, “Clean the face of tiles and the joints as you go, as this is easier than trying to clean set tile adhesive.” Make sure you have a sponge and a bucket of clean water with you when working.

FAQs

How long does floor adhesive take to dry?

This will depend on what floor tile adhesive has been used, explains Youssefi, “If you’ve used rapid-set adhesive, you can normally walk on the tiles later the same day. With standard adhesive, it’s best to wait until the next morning, and avoid placing heavy furniture on the floor for at least 24 hours.”

What is the ideal spacer size for kitchen floor tiles?

Abbas Youssefi suggests a variety of spacer sizes, “For most modern rectified porcelain tiles, a 2mm spacer provides the neatest, most contemporary finish. These tiles are cut with precise edges, so they sit closer together without appearing cramped.”

However, if you have a different tile or layout, he suggests an alternative, “For other styles - such as modular layouts, herringbone patterns or tiles with chipped or wavy edges - a slightly wider joint often works better.”

He adds, “A 3mm joint gives these patterns better definition and allows for the small variations that come with this style of tile.”You can use larger spacers if you prefer this style; 10mm is the maximum recommended size.

If you’re undecided about what kitchen floor tiles you want, then you need to check out our kitchen floor tile ideas. Alternatively, see our kitchen vinyl flooring ideas. If thinking of what else you can do in your kitchen, check our kitchen island ideas for inspiration.

The last time we decorated my teenage daughter's bedroom was when she was three years old – she is now 14 and it is in desperate need of a refresh. We were planning on moving house up until earlier this year and so had been putting off many decorating jobs. However, we have now decided to stay put and extend meaning many very overdue tasks are back on the to-do list – including putting some stylish teenage bedroom ideas into action.

The bedroom was mainly painted white, although the wall featuring the original chimney breast had been painted a duck egg blue at some stage. What all the walls had in common though was the fact that they were covered in scrapes, fingerprints, smears of make-up and various lotions and potions and an array of ugly scuffs.

Decisions on the overall decor scheme of the room were made much easier thanks to my daughter's extensive Pinterest boards – and she had her heart set on an inky grey for the chimney breast, complete with classic panelling. Here's how we set about turning the idea into reality, step-by-step.

1. Choosing paint colours

This was a tricky task – we knew we wanted the chimney breast to become a bit of a feature wall, and my daughter was keen on something really bold and dramatic. We tried out all kinds of deep shades, from forest greens to stormy navy, but in the end settled on Railings by Farrow & Ball, a hue billed as being 'a softer alternative to black' and perfect for 'enveloping spaces'. If you are after grey bedroom ideas I'd definitely consider using this shade.

Finding a colour for the rest of the walls that would act as a warm, neutral backdrop for the dramatic dark shade was tricky – my daughter was adamant that it shouldn't be too white, have no cream or yellow to it and wasn't in any way grey... Not easy.

After much back and forthing with paint samples, we settled on Piano White from the Dulux Heritage range. It is really clean and, while there is a slight yellow undertone, in this particular room, it just comes across as nice and warm.

2. Preparing the walls for painting

As I said, the walls in this room were in a bit of a dire state and by the time we got around to painting them, they were also covered in a patchwork of various paint colours where we had sampled a little too enthusiastically meaning we had to use some techniques for painting over dark colours before getting started.

Luckily, the wall we were focusing on turning into a feature needed less in the way of prep than the others, largely due to the fact that the blue black colour would cover all manner of defects – we had opted for the 'Dead Flat' finish which is incredibly durable and hardwearing and is ideal for use on uneven walls.

A quick dust down and clean off with sugar soap, as well as a hoover of the picture rail, skirting and fireplace left the wall ready to paint.

Shop wall prep essentials

3. Painting the wall

Our chosen paint went on like a dream – the coverage was so good that we really only needed one coat, although we did two. This is one of the benefits of buying premium paint. I since tried to scrimp on the paint for our front door and really noticed the difference in texture and coverage.

Because the colour is so dark it was really important that we masked off the areas where we didn't want it – skirting boards, picture rail and, of course, the fireplace. I find Frogtape to be one of the best ways of doing this.

4. Getting ready to fit the panelling

This was a first for me. We did use a few wall panelling ideas in the living room where we installed tongue and groove boards to clad one wall, but in terms of grid-style kits, I had no experience.

Our particular panelling kit was by Richard Burbidge from B&Q and came in the form of 12 pre-cut lightweight pieces of wood, each measuring 12 x 32 x 420mm. The corners of each were mitred to fit together easily and all the installation instructions were easy to find on Richard Burbidge's website.

Before getting started we assembled all the kit we would need although, in all honesty, the tool list wasn't too extensive. All that was needed was a spirit level and a suitable adhesive. We used No More Nails. You can also further secure each piece with a nail gun if you want.

Wall panelling fitting kit

5. Measuring and fixing

I had originally planned on using the kit to create some bedroom wall panelling ideas revolving around three square grids set next to each other centrally over the chimney breast, but when I measured again, I realised this wouldn't work with the dimensions of the chimney breast – oops. Instead, we decided to to set two squares next to another with another below.

Once we had marked the position of the panels on the wall, we applied the adhesive to the back of the panels and stuck them into place, using a spirit level to ensure they were nice and straight – not easy given the unevenness of the walls in this house. We then repeated the process for the remaining panels.

When in place we checked the corners for gaps, although there were not really any to speak of. If you do find gaps, these can be filled with filler before sanding smooth.

6. Painting and finishing the panelling

Next it was time to paint the panelling in the same shade as the wall. There is no need for priming which makes this a really quick job.

Again, we used two coats, applied using a brush, but probably could have got away with one just as with the wall.

With the panels in place it was time to stand back and admire – as well as to hang some nice twinkly fairy lights to bring the whole thing to life.

FAQs

How much does wall panelling cost?

The cost of wall panelling varies depending on how much you are buying and whether or not you are buying it in off-the-shelf kit form, as we did, or having something custom made.

Our kit cost £25. Other than that there were no additional costs as we had the adhesive and paint already.

Struggling to decide what shade to paint your own bedroom? Take a look at our guide to the best bedroom colours for all kinds of styles to ensure you get this all-important decision spot on.

If you're in the market for an oil-filled radiator, it's important to consider the size before making your purchase. They can be one of the best radiators if you're searching for a portable option, but choosing the wrong one can negatively affect their efficiency and how comfortable your room feels.

These portable appliances come in a variety of sizes, ranging from small units with around 80W of power to larger models reaching up to 2500W. When selecting the right one for your home, you'll need to consider both the room size and the level of insulation.

To help you determine which size oil-filled radiator you should buy, we called in the experts to explain everything you need to know. Below, you'll find the calculations to make, how to tell if yours is the wrong size, and what can happen if it is.

How to size an oil-filled radiator

With a heat calculator:
To get the most accurate results, Nick Duggan, Managing Director of The Radiator Centre, recommends using an online heat calculator (like this one by B&Q) to determine your specific requirements. After entering your room’s dimensions and type of insulation, windows, and outside wall, the results will be shown in either watts or BTUs (British Thermal Units).

Nick says, "All radiators will state an output in either watts, BTUs or both. By knowing how much heat each radiator will emit, you can now find the best one to efficiently heat each room based on your earlier heat calculation."

Without a heat calculator:
If you prefer to work it out yourself, Nicholas Aukland, Managing Director of Trade Radiators, says to multiply the room’s square meterage by 100 watts for a standard ceiling height with average insulation.

For example: 20 m² room = 2,000 watts

However, if your room is poorly insulated or has particularly high ceilings, you’ll need to add around 10 to 20% on top of that figure. So, the example above would become 2,200 to 2,400 watts.

Nicholas adds, "Most radiator manufacturers will provide sizing guides and all models should list their output in watts so you can match the heater to the space with fairly little trouble."

Shop these top-rated oil-filled radiators

How does the size of an oil-filled radiator affect efficiency?

If your radiator is undersized...
Nicholas Aukland explains that by choosing a radiator that’s too small for your room, you’ll end up running it on the highest setting for long stretches of time – after all that, your room will still feel cold!

Nick Duggan adds, "An undersized radiator leads to uneven heat, cold patches and higher electricity use because the appliance never gets a break."

If your radiator is oversized...
Bigger isn’t always better when it comes to radiator size; an oversized model can make the room heat up too quickly and feel uncomfortably stuffy. Nicholas explains that the thermostat will cut in and out repeatedly, and you’ll just end up switching it off because it feels too overwhelming.

Nick Duggan says, "An oversized one short cycles, which is inefficient and uncomfortable, and can create a humid, heavy feeling in the room that makes the space feel smaller. Getting the output right for the room avoids these issues and keeps the temperature stable without wasting energy."

Signs your oil-filled radiator is the wrong size

If you think your radiator is the wrong size, look out for these tell-tale signs, explained by Nicholas Aukland:

It's undersized if...

• You feel heat pooling right beside the unit while the rest of the room stays chilly
• The unit runs flat out for long stretches
• The thermostat rarely clicks off
• You feel you need to sit close to stay warm
• The fins feel very hot but the far wall or corners remain cool, which is often a mix of too little surface area and poor airflow

It's oversized if...

• You get rapid temperature rises and frequent thermostat clicks followed by short, repeated on‑off cycles
• The room can feel stuffy, then cool again a few minutes later
• You want to crack open a window to dump heat
• Overheat cut‑outs trip out

However, Nicholas adds: "Some of the same symptoms can come from placement, so check that fins are not blocked by furniture or drying clothes, doors are closed to stop heat escaping, and draughts are managed before deciding the size is wrong."

To prevent wasting energy, money, and time, it's important to choose the correct size before installing a radiator. By following these calculation tips and watching for the signs mentioned above, you can ensure your heater is the right fit.

If you're unclear whether an oil-filled radiator is the best choice for your home, explore the different heat emitters available, as explained by the experts.

If you're in the process of choosing a heat emitter, you might consider an oil‑filled radiator and wonder how they work. Renowned for their energy‑efficient and portable design, these radiators are a popular choice in many households and offer a number of benefits.

Oil‑filled radiators are a type of electric radiator and typically feature a plug‑in design. While some models can be wall-mounted, they are usually freestanding, making them easy to move from room to room.

Despite being a common appliance, few people know how oil-filled radiators actually work, so we've called in the experts to explain everything you need to know below. If you're curious about how they function, whether the oil needs topping up, or if they're worth the investment, keep reading.

How do oil-filled radiators work?

"Oil-filled radiators work by heating a reservoir of oil sealed inside the unit," explains Nicholas Auckland, Managing Director of Trade Radiators. "The oil is warmed by an electric heating element, and once heated, it circulates within the radiator’s fins. This stores and radiates heat steadily into the room."

Since this type of radiator doesn't blow air, it's quiet and comfortable for continuous use and is suitable for noise-sensitive rooms. According to Nick Duggan, Managing Director of The Radiator Centre, these heaters can stay warm for 30 minutes to over an hour after they’ve stopped drawing electricity, which is why they’re such an efficient choice.

Are oil-filled radiators any good?

Yes, oil-filled radiators are a good choice for heating small to medium-sized rooms, providing a steady, even warmth.

You can pick one up for around £30, and running costs can be as little as 15p per hour (based on current kWh rates with a 500W model). They’re an excellent way to heat a single room locally without having to turn on your central heating.

Unlike other portable heaters, such as fan heaters and convector heaters, oil-filled radiators are very quiet and are usually safe to leave on overnight, making them a suitable choice for bedrooms if you want an undisturbed night’s sleep.

While these radiators offer many benefits, whether they’re worth it will depend on your heating needs and preferences, explains Nick Duggan.

He says, "They may take longer to warm up, but their efficiency and low maintenance often make up for these drawbacks over time. However, if you need instant heat or have limited space, you might want to consider other options."

Pros and cons of oil-filled radiators

Before you install an oil-filled radiator, it's important to consider both the pros and cons. Here's what Nick Duggan wants you to know:

Pros

• Energy-efficient: As previously mentioned, these radiators retain heat well (even after they’ve been switched off), which helps you save energy.
• Quiet: Ideal for bedrooms and offices, you won’t be disturbed by fans or blowers.
• Consistent heating: Oil-filled radiators don’t create hot or cold spots, so you can enjoy an even, comfortable warmth.
• Hassle-free: Contrary to popular belief, you won’t need to worry about topping them up with oil or carrying out any maintenance.
• Safe and healthy: These radiators often come with safety features like tip-over protection and overheating prevention to give you peace of mind. Since they don’t dry out the air or consume oxygen, they help maintain good air quality too.
• Portable: Oil-filled radiators can warm areas of your home that a conventional heater can’t reach, simply because you can pick it up and move it wherever you need it.

Cons

• Slow to heat up: Compared to other emitters, you may have to wait a little longer for oil-filled radiators to warm up.
• Higher initial cost: While still generally affordable, oil-filled radiators tend to be more expensive than basic space heaters.
• Limited directional heating: You won’t be able to focus the heat in a specific direction.
• Bulkiness: They are often bulkier and heavier than other portable heaters, which might not be ideal for small spaces.
• Hot surface: Something to keep in mind if you have small children or pets – the exterior can become very hot during operation, which could result in burns if touched.

Do you have to refill oil-filled radiators?

This is a question Nick Duggan is asked a lot, but the answer is no – you don’t need to top up an oil-filled radiator with oil.

Nicholas Auckland explains that the oil simply acts as a heat reservoir, allowing the radiator to provide warmth without sudden temperature swings or frequent cycling.

If you don't mind the bulkiness and waiting a little longer for them to heat up, oil-filled radiators can be a great, energy-efficient choice for your home that doesn’t require complicated maintenance. Now that you have all the information about how they work, you can decide whether they’re right for your needs.

To learn more, read our comparison of oil-filled radiators vs. convector heaters, or check out this feature on why one writer uses an oil-filled radiator to stay warm while working from home.

Even if yours is a shoe-free household with no pets, there is no escaping the fact that, over time, carpet can start to look pretty grimy, losing its newly-fitted, immaculate appearance – which is why learning how to clean carpet it on a DIY basis is a skill well-worth knowing.

All types of carpet need some form of maintenance and while you can obviously call in the professionals to help you restore your carpet's fresh finish, this can be an expensive thing to do on a regularly basis – particularly when it is quite possible to carry out the task yourself armed with the right products and know-how – as well as a little patience.

Whether you are keen to get your carpet pristine for the imminent arrival of house guests, are staring in horror at a newly acquired stain or share your home with four-legged friends who have a total disregard for the doormat, we have gathered together the best expert advice around to help you get the job done to pro standards.

How to clean an entire carpet

The main reason people tend to call in the professionals is because the prospect of cleaning an entire carpet, either within a single space such as a living room or throughout the home, can feel a little overwhelming. However, this is a job that can, with the right tools and know-how, be successfully carried out on a DIY basis.

"For a full refresh, steam cleaning is one of the most effective DIY methods," reveals Lynsey Crombie, aka Lynsey Queen of Clean. "Many steam cleaners come with a dedicated carpet tool, where the steamer sits in a refresh tray to loosen and lift the top layer of dirt. This helps revive dull carpet fibres and remove everyday surface grime without harsh chemicals.

"Another option is to use a carpet cleaner machine," continues Lynsey. "These work by spraying a mix of water and carpet shampoo into the fibres, then sucking the dirty water back out. They give a deeper clean than steam alone and are great for households with kids or pets, where carpets see more spills and muddy footprints."

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How to get stains out of carpet

From red wine and mud to pollen and sauces, at some stage in its life, a carpet is bound to be subjected to some pretty stubborn stains. Thankfully, there are ways of dealing with them that don't mean investing in a new rug to cover them up – or entirely new flooring.

"When it comes to stains, one rule stands out from the rest – blot, do not scrub!" warns Scott Schrader, cleaning expert at CottageCare. "For stains associated with food or drink like red wine or coffee, a simple mixture of warm water and one drop of washing-up liquid will work, as long as you simply blot up the liquid with a clean towel afterwards. For grease stains, a small amount of bicarbonate of soda will work really well if left for a short amount of time prior to vacuuming."

"When dealing with stains, the type of spill makes a difference, but there are some golden rules," explains Lynsey Crombie, who goes on to reveal what these are:

• Always blot, never scrub.
• Use a clean white cloth to gently dab the stain. A white cloth helps you see the stain lifting and avoids colour transfer.
• Cold water first. Most stains should be treated with cold water as soon as possible to prevent them setting.

For more specific stain treatments, Benjamin Hirst, MD of Smart Cleaning has some insider tips.

• For stains like wine or juice, try 1 tbsp white vinegar plus 1 tbsp washing-up liquid and 2 cups warm water. Blot with a clean cloth. Rinse and blot dry.
• For coffee or tea use equal parts white vinegar and water. Again, dab gently, then rinse and blot dry.
• For harder stains like grease or oil, use cornstarch or baking soda, then dab the residue with isopropyl alcohol. Leave for 15 min, then vacuum.
• With mud, let it dry then vacuum. Use a mild detergent with warm water. Again, blot never scrub.
• If you're got pet stains, you want an enzymatic cleaner (try Nature’s Miracle). This breaks down odours and bacteria.
• With ink stains, try Isopropyl alcohol or hairspray (with alcohol). Blot gently using a white cloth.

Shop household stain busters

How do you clean a carpet by hand?

If you decide to forgo hiring or buying a carpet cleaning machine, there are still ways to get your carpet back up to scratch. In areas of light use, such as in the case of bedroom carpet, a clean by hand might be all that's needed.

"Use carpet cleaning sprays and solutions," suggests Lynsey Crombie. "Products like Dr. Beckmann Carpet Cleaner from Amazon are popular for home use because they’re easy to apply and come with built-in applicators or brushes to work the solution into the fibres. These treatments are ideal for tackling high traffic areas that look flat or grubby, such as hallways and living room walkways."

"Before any wet cleaning, remove as much loose debris as possible with a vacuum," advises Benjamin Hirst. "Vacuum slowly and in multiple directions to lift ground-in dirt. Sprinkle bicarbonate of soda before vacuuming to neutralise odours. Dry carpet cleaning powders also works well. Brush in, leave to absorb, then vacuum."

Is it worth hiring a carpet cleaner?

Hiring a carpet cleaning machine is a common solution. Prices vary, but, as a guide, expect to pay around £27.99 per 24 hours for a standard machine. Bear in mind, this probably won't include the cost of the detergent you'll need to go in it and any accessories for corners and so on — however, it is a great way to deep clean your home as well as deal with any invisible mould.

"Once or twice a year, a DIY refresh with a rented carpet cleaner or a home machine will go a long way to reset your carpet pile," explains Scott Schrader. "Just be certain that you have the appropriate solution, and be mindful not to over-wet the carpet – over-saturating can leave behind cleaning residue resulting in dirt, or, in worse case scenarios, lead to mould, which isn’t good for anyone."

If it is just small patches you need to get clean, rather than hiring a full-size carpet cleaner, a small handheld model makes a great investment – plus many can also be used on upholstery and mattresses.

"For smaller areas or quick refreshes, spot cleaners are a handy tool," says Lynsey Crombie. "These portable machines target individual patches and are perfect for tackling accidents, stains, or high-traffic areas without having to clean the entire carpet."

"If you are only spot cleaning, a little spray bottle filled with half and half vinegar and water will work for cleaning up stains ,too" adds Scott Schrader. "If you decide to conduct spot cleaning yourself, I would suggest utilising a stiff bristled brush after applying the carpet cleaner in addition to a stack of clean microfibre cloths as your cleaning accessories."

Shop spot carpet cleaners

FAQs

What should you not clean carpet with?

It is important that, in your bid to get your carpets spotless, you don't end up doing more harm than good by using unsuitable cleaning products – particularly in the case of natural carpets.

"It’s best to avoid bleach-based products," picks up Lynsey Crombie. "While bleach can remove colour, it often damages carpet fibres permanently and leaves behind patchy marks that are worse than the original stain. Similarly, harsh chemical cleaners not designed for carpets can degrade the backing and shorten the carpet’s life."

"You want to avoid anything harsh, like bleach, or anything with a strong fragrance while cleaning up the carpets too," adds Scott Schrader. "The reason is simply that they can easily damage the carpet fibres and create residues."

"Avoid ammonia too," says Benjamin Hirst. "It is harsh and may damage wool. And don’t soak carpets as excess water leads to mould. Finally, steer clear of abrasive brushes that can fray fibres."

If there is one room in the house to avoid carpet it is the bathroom – there are so many better bathroom flooring ideas to choose from.

Adding coving is a clever, subtle, and straightforward way to add character to a room. It softens the harsh straight edges where a wall meets the ceiling and introduces curves, depth, and definition.

It also comes in a variety of styles and finishes. You can choose a simple, classic curved shape for modern homes, or add more decorative detail to evoke the charm of a period property.

The beauty of coving is that it can fit almost anywhere in the home, and it can enhance different types of ceilings and rooms. Whether it's to complete a formal dining room or enhance your living room, the best part is, with the help of this guide, you can even do it yourself.

Tools to install coving

As with any DIY project, you need the right tools to achieve the best finish. To install coving, you'll need a few basic tools that most DIY enthusiasts already have, as well as a few you might not.

• Measuring tape
• Mitre box – like this Clamping Mitre Box (with saw) from Amazon
• Fine tooth saw – try this Irwin XP3055-300 Jack Tenon Saw from Amazon
• Spirit level
• Caulking gun – try the Volden heavy-duty sealant gun from B&Q
• Adhesive - such as Everbuild EVBCOVE 310 ml Coving Adhesive from Amazon
• Scraper
• Filler
• Mitre saw (optional) - try the Makita 216mm Slide Compound Saw from Amazon

How to install coving

The good news is, learning how to install coving won't take too long. There are just three steps from start to finish.

1. Measure up

“To start, measure the perimeter of your room using a tape measure to identify the length of every wall,” advises Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb. This is important for accurate cuts. Now check the manufacturer's instructions to see how far the coving edges should be fixed from the wall.

Paul Kerr, building expert at Beatsons Building Supplies agrees, adding, "don't forget to buy an extra 10% of coving on top of this measurement for cutting or mistakes.”

Next, “mark this measurement regularly along the wall using a tape measure and pencil," says Mark. "Then join these marks together with a spirit level in order to create a guide for installing your coving around the room."

2. Cut coving

For the cutting process, “first, take a pencil and mark out the length of the coving for each wall on the underside of the coving, making sure to be precise,” says Mark Irving.

Then, start cutting. “Place your coving on your workbench in a mitre box and use a fine-tooth saw to cut the coving at a 45-degree angle.”

3. Install coving

Don’t dive straight in with installation, warns Mark Irving. "Instead, first hold your coving up against the wall to check that it’s a good fit. Then wipe the area with a damp cloth to remove any dust or debris.”

The next step is to add adhesive and install the coving.

“Take your caulking gun and apply a generous line of adhesive to the top and bottom edge of your coving and firmly press it into position on the wall,” says Mark.

His top tip for ensuring it stays in place? “Whilst it’s drying, you can hammer some pins under the coving at 600mm intervals, and remove them when the adhesive has dried.”

The final step before painting is to fill any gaps with a suitable filler. Make sure to remove any excess, then wipe with a damp cloth to achieve a smooth finish.

Types of coving

Coving comes in a variety of materials and styles, each with its own pros and cons.

“There are four main types of coving," shares Paul Kerr. "Polystyrene, polyurethane, MDF/wood, and plaster."

Here we take a look at the different options and what they offer.

Polystyrene coving

Polystyrene coving is typically the most affordable option and easy to install, but it’s not perfect, says Mark Irving. “It’s easy to install due to its lightweight nature. However, its lightweight nature means it’s not as long-lasting or durable as other types of coving.

“It can also dent more than other materials and typically isn't as aesthetically pleasing as other options," he adds.

Polyurethane coving

Polyurethane coving is made from a polymer, which is essentially a type of plastic.

“Polyurethane coving is a more mid-range option that offers good durability and high moisture resistance," says Paul Kerr. "However, polyurethane coving is still less durable than plaster coving.”

In terms of price, it will be around twice the price of polystyrene coving.

Plaster coving

Plaster coving is the traditional material commonly associated with coving and cornices, and is more likely to be the best choice when renovating a house.

“Plaster is the most durable and typically comes in more ornate designs, yet is the heaviest and usually is best left to a professional to fit," advises Paul Kerr.

However, "plaster coving is highly durable and strong, so once it’s installed, it can last for decades with minimal maintenance," adds Mark Irving.

MDF/wood coving

This is less commonly used for coving, although, “MDF or wood is good for basic square edge designs, and is usually the best to paint over,” says Paul Kerr. "But it's not as durable as other options, he continues, "and can bow or bend if exposed to moisture.”

If you do choose this option, make sure you understand how to paint MDF so that you don't end up with problems once the coving is installed.

Try these coving options to decorate your home

Costs to install coving

If you don’t have the time, tools or skills to install coving, you can call in a professional, but the price for this may vary.

“The cost of installing coving can vary based on the material of the coving, the size of the room and your regional location,” explains Mark Irving.

However, as a general guideline, “to install standard coving you can expect to pay around £150 to £300 per day," says Mark. "But, to install more expensive and intricate styles of coving in a larger room, you can expect to pay as much as £800 per day”.

For a more precise figure, “you can expect labourers to charge around £6 - £12/m installed, so for a 5 x 5m room can expect a cost of around £400 - £500 when fitting a plaster coving,” says Paul Kerr.

If installing coving yourself, you can expect to pay around £2 - £3/m for basic polystyrene coving. Polyurethane coving prices start at around £5 - £6/m for plain styling, while more decorative styles can cost £10 - £25/m.

Plain plaster coving can be bought for as little as £4/m, but for traditional decorative styles, expect to pay at least £10/m. Shop around to find special offers and deals.

Can I install coving myself?

A competent DIYer can install coving, but will need the right tools to ensure a good finish.

“Installing coving is a fairly straightforward process that requires accurately cutting the coving to size, applying adhesive, pressing the coving into place and completing the look by sanding and painting the coving," agrees Mark Irving.

But, you might need more than one person for the job advises Paul Kerr.

“Heavy plaster-based coving usually requires more than one set of hands, but there are a variety of lightweight options that are very DIY friendly, easy to cut and glue down.”

FAQs

What is the difference between coving and cornices?

Cornice and coving perform the same function and are often used interchangeably.

But, to try end explain the difference, “a cornice is a general term used to describe a moulding that conceals the joint between a ceiling and wall,” says Mark Irving

"It is also usually only available in plaster format and is more for aesthetic purposes," adds Paul Kerr, "with more variation on decoration and design.” It's something you're more likely to come across when renovating a Georgian house, for example.

"Coving on the other hand can be described is a type of cornice that has a more plain design, typically in a standard C-shape,” shares Mark.

What colour should coving be painted?

Colour is subjective, but white is a popular choice for trim in a room, and it's a popular choice for coving too.

“White or a variation of white is the most common colour for coving," confirms Mark Irving. "Typically it's painted white to blend with ceilings for a more timeless look, and can also create a contrast between the wall colour, to highlight the architecture of the room

“However, you can paint yours any colour you like," he adds. "For example, if your ceiling is being painted, it makes sense to pair the coving collaboratively. Or, in a small room, it can be beneficial to paint your coving the same colour as your walls to elongate the room's height.” Techniques such as colour drenching, a popular paint trend, and colour capping are all ways in which coving can be integrated into your overall interior design ideas.

Alongside colour, it's also a smart idea to consider the type of paint you use, says Mark. “Matt paint finishes are beneficial for coving, as they helps hide imperfections, unlike high-gloss finishes.”

An alternative is a mid-sheen finish, or a vinyl matt paint. “A satin finish can provide a sleek appearance and be helpful in improving durability," notes Mark.

If you're adding coving and cornices, make sure you also think about how else you can elevate a room. You may consider looking at the different types of skirting available and using a similar profile to marry up the junctions between floor, ceiling and walls.

Alternatively, in the same way as LED skirting board has proved popular in contemporary homes, consider whether LED coving could add a final flourish to your lighting design and bring a new dimension to your ceilings.

Induction hobs may be some of the sleekest appliances you can add to modern kitchens, but that smooth glass surface is also famously unforgiving. Every splash of sauce and misty fingerprint shows up instantly, which is why understanding how to clean an induction hob properly is essential if you want to keep your workspace gleaming.

The secret to getting it right is using the right tools and techniques. A gentle cleaner, a soft cloth and a few smart habits make all the difference between a hob that stays show-home polished and one that starts to look tired far too soon.

Below, we break down the expert-approved methods that keep an induction hob clean, protected and performing exactly as it should, without scratching the glass or fading the controls.

Why do induction hobs need specific care?

Because induction technology heats the pan rather than the glass, spills don’t burn away — they simply sit on the hob’s surface. That makes day-to-day cleaning easier, but it also means residue can linger and quickly dull their shine if it’s not wiped away. And unlike metal gas burners, the glass top of an induction hob is more vulnerable to scratches, etching and faded control markings, so it needs a gentler touch.

As Sarah Whitfield, product manager at Stoves, explains: “Not only is it nicer to cook in a tidy kitchen, but keeping your induction hob clean can even save on energy use, as burnt food prevents the pan heating as efficiently.”

It also seems most of us instinctively understand the value of keeping these surfaces pristine. A recent survey by Domestic & General revealed that 25% of people wipe their hob every single day, and that the hob ranks as one of the cleanest items in the home, with just 1% of people admitting to never cleaning theirs.

But even with good habits in place, the trick is knowing exactly how to clean an induction hob without scratching the glass or damaging the control markings – and choosing the right tools makes all the difference.

Tools and products you will need

You don’t need a cupboard full of specialist cleaning products to get this job done; just a few gentle, hob-friendly tools.

For everyday cleaning

• Microfibre cloths: ideal for wiping, drying and buffing without leaving streaks.
• Warm water and washing-up liquid: perfect for loosening light grime and day-to-day splatters.
• White vinegar in a spray bottle: great for cutting through cloudiness and restoring that glassy shine.

For deeper cleans

• A non-scratch sponge: gentle enough for glass, effective enough for greasy patches.
• Hob cream cleaner: helps lift stubborn marks without damaging the surface.
• A glass hob scraper: or, in a pinch, a plastic loyalty card, for safely removing cooked-on residue.
• A separate soft cloth for buffing: this is the secret to a streak-free finish.

What not to use on an induction hob

"If you wouldn’t use it on your phone screen, don’t use it on your hob," cautions Luke Arnel-Cameron, managing director of Yass Clean. "That means no abrasive scouring pads, no steel wool, and no harsh chemicals like bleach or ammonia, all of which can scratch, dull or mark the glass and the control symbols."

If you’re using a cleaning spray or cream cleaner, Luke also recommends popping on a pair of gloves and to avoid getting product directly on the control markings.

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How to clean an induction hob: A step-by-step Guide

Cleaning an induction hob doesn’t require a heavy hand. Just a light touch and a bit of consistency should do the trick. These are the simple steps that experts recommend:

1. Make sure the hob is completely cool
   Induction hobs cool quickly, but it’s still best to give the surface a moment to cool down. Switch it off at the mains if possible.
2. Start with a simple wipe-down
   Use warm water and a little washing-up liquid with a microfibre cloth. This loosens everyday splatters from cooking and lifts any residue sitting on the glass.
3. Tackle light smears with vinegar
   If the surface still looks cloudy, spritz a little diluted white vinegar and buff with a clean microfibre cloth. Sarah Whitfield notes that vinegar works brilliantly on glass-topped electric and induction hobs, helping bring back that sparkle without harsh chemicals.
4. Soak stubborn marks and let the cleaner do the work
   If you’re dealing with cooked-on residue, avoid scrubbing right away. Instead, apply a hob cream cleaner and leave it to sit for 20–30 minutes.
5. Lift cooked-on bits with a scraper
   Once the cleaner has softened the residue, use a glass hob scraper at a shallow angle to gently lift it off. Ian Palmer-Smith advises keeping the tool as horizontal as possible to avoid scratching. A old plastic loyalty card works in a pinch for very small patches.
6. Rinse and wipe clean
   Use a soft, damp cloth to remove any leftover cleaner or residue. Avoid letting product pool around the control markings, as repeated contact can fade them over time.
7. Dry and buff for a streak-free shine
   Finish with a fresh microfibre or glass cleaning cloth, buffing in light circular motions. A final mist of vinegar or a glass cleaner can help achieve that flawless, reflective finish.

How often should you clean your induction hob?

“I always recommend giving your induction hob a quick wipe down after every use with a vinegar and water solution or hob cleaner," says Sarah Whitfield from Stoves. "That way, you can avoid burnt-on residue which builds up and becomes harder to clean. If it’s left too long, acidic foods such as fruits, tomatoes, and vinegars or salty or sugary foods can leave marks or dull spots and damage surfaces.”

Luke Arnel-Cameron agrees, adding: “The biggest mistake I see time and again is waiting too long. When you clean as you go, once the hob’s cool, you’ll never need to scrub hard."

“I tell customers: think of hob cleaning like brushing your teeth: quick daily care and a deeper clean weekly,” he advises. “After each use, a warm, soapy wipe-down prevents build-up. Once a week, take a few extra minutes to give the surface a proper polish. A monthly deep clean keeps everything sparkling and performing at its best.”

FAQs

Can you use vinegar or bicarbonate of soda on an induction hob?

It’s tempting to reach for natural cleaners, but they’re not always the best match for delicate glass surfaces. “Natural solutions such as white vinegar can help remove limescale but may leave streaks on glass surfaces,” cautions Sophie Lane, product training lead at Miele GB. “Likewise, bicarbonate of soda is mildly abrasive and should be avoided on ceramic or induction hobs to prevent scratching.”

These DIY cleaning methods can be fine for very light cleaning, but Sophie stresses that purpose-made products are the safer choice. “While these natural, DIY options can work for light cleaning, commercial hob cleaners are specially formulated to protect delicate surfaces and deliver a polished finish,” she adds.

Why do marks appear even after I’ve cleaned the hob?

Cloudy patches, streaks or dull spots usually mean that residue hasn’t been fully lifted or the surface hasn’t been dried completely. This can happen if cleaner is simply spread around rather than removed, or if water is left to evaporate on the glass. A dry microfibre cloth is perfect for the final step, as it helps pick up any lingering residue and restores a clear, polished finish.

How do you clean a gas hob?

Gas models require a little more dismantling than an induction or ceramic hob, but the cleaning process is still straightforward. Appliance expert Ian Palmer-Smith notes that the materials you need “depend on the type of hob you have and how dirty it is,” but for gas hobs specifically, warm soapy water, a gentle cleaning spray and soft cloths are the essentials.

Start by making sure the hob is fully cool, then lift off the burner caps and supports. Ian recommends a simple setup: “A bucket or sink of warm water with washing-up liquid, cleaning spray, two soft cloths, a toothbrush, and a soft-bristled scrubbing brush.” Soak the removable parts in warm, soapy water to loosen grease, then use the brush or toothbrush to get into the tricky areas around the burners"

Wipe the surface with a gentle cleaning spray and a soft cloth, avoiding anything abrasive. Once everything is clean and dry, reassemble the burners and give the hob a final buff.

Knowing how to keep a hob clean is just one part of achieving a truly spotless kitchen. Pairing it with a reliable cooker hood or kitchen extractor fan helps control steam, reduce residue and prevent mould from forming.

If you’ve woken up with itchy bites and reddish-brown marks on your mattress, you’re probably wondering how to get rid of bedbugs – and fast!

These tiny insects live on bedding and furniture and are often brought inside via your clothing or other belongings. Thankfully, these pests are visible to the human eye, and the signs are fairly obvious, so it shouldn’t be too difficult to tell if you have them – unlike other pests, like dust mites, which are too small to see.

To help you banish bedbugs as quickly as possible, we consulted pest control experts for their advice. Below, you’ll find a step-by-step guide for getting rid of these pesky parasites, the signs to watch out for, and whether it’s possible to eliminate them overnight.

How to get rid of bedbugs

1. Check your belongings
Bedbugs are often picked up while traveling, so give your belongings a thorough inspection – including your clothing, suitcase, and everything inside. Vacuum them to get rid of any unwanted hitchhikers that may be lingering.

Tony King, pest control expert at The Pied Piper, warns against taking potentially infested items to other parts of your home, as this could cause the infestation to spread even further.

2 Vacuum
Next, vacuum your mattress, box springs, bed frames, and floors to remove as many bedbugs and eggs as possible. Tony says this won't solve the problem completely, but it's a good starting point and a partial solution.

3. Wash your bedding and clothing
Just like carpet beetles, bedbugs and their eggs can't survive extremely high temperatures, so your next step is to wash your bedding and clothing in hot water and then dry them on the highest heat setting, says Tony.

Wash your garments at a minimum of 60 °C for at least 30 minutes, then tumble dry on the hottest setting for 30 minutes.

4. Consult professional pest control
If you're dealing with a large infestation, it's always best to call in professionals who can completely eliminate the problem from your home.

Darren Backhouse, Partner at MJ Backhouse Pest Control, says, "DIY methods can help control the problem but bed bugs can live in tiny cracks and crevices, so professional pest control treatment is usually needed with larger infestations."

Get rid of bedbugs with these shopping picks

Can you completely get rid of bedbugs overnight?

No, it's not possible to completely get rid of bedbugs overnight. According to Tony King, these insects are "extremely tough" and often hide in tiny cracks and crevices, which makes them difficult to remove instantly.

He explains, "Even with the strongest of chemical treatments and heat methods, one has to go through multiple rounds to ensure that all the different stages of the life cycle are wiped out."

Darren Backhouse agrees and notes that follow-up inspections are part of his routine, as bedbugs and their eggs can be hidden deep in furniture and walls.

He says, "If you spot an issue early and follow preventative measures (regularly check bedding, seal cracks and be cautious when bringing secondhand furniture or luggage inside), you may be able to stop an infestation taking hold."

Signs of bedbugs

If you think you have bedbugs, but aren't 100% certain, here are the common signs to look out for, according to Tony King and Darren Backhouse:

• Small, itchy bites (these may appear red or purple, depending on your skin tone)
• Dark spots on your sheets and mattress (these are bedbug droppings and shed skin)
• A faint musty smell in areas where bedbugs have multiplied heavily
• An unpleasant sweet odor

To treat the bites, the NHS recommends keeping the affected area clean, applying something cool to help with itching, and avoiding scratching.

Alternatively, your local pharmacist may be able to recommend a mild steroid cream or antihistamines if the itching is unbearable. If these measures don’t work, it’s best to consult your GP, who may prescribe antibiotics to treat an infection.

The very idea of bedbugs lurking in your furniture is enough to make your skin crawl, but by following the steps above, you’ll have the best chance of removing them from your home for good.

Some of these tips – like regular cleaning and sealing cracks – will also be helpful in preventing other common household pests, such as silverfish and spiders.

Plywood is a versatile material that can be used almost anywhere in the home. However, waterproofing plywood takes it to the next level, making it ideal for both moisture-laden interiors and exteriors. It is made from layers bonded together, so any water that gets between the layers can weaken the wood.

Introducing a sealant will help prevent this from happening, allowing you to safely use it in your bathroom, replace kitchen worktops, and build outside. The type of sealant you need to seal the plywood will depend on its intended use. Here, the experts reveal five options to ensure you choose the right one for your needs.

Reasons to waterproof plywood

Plywood is a cost-effective and multi-talented wood, but it absorbs water easily. This can lead to numerous issues, as Steve Larkin, CEO of Kitchen Door Hub points out, “Rotting, splitting, warping and weathering (if used outside) are common problems.”

He adds, “If left unsealed, plywood may need to be replaced regularly as it is more at risk of dry or wet rot, and taking on moisture can reduce the strength and structural integrity of the material.”

Once plywood has been waterproofed, it's a more versatile wood, continues Larkin, “Waterproofing plywood can be particularly beneficial in a kitchen, as it is an area that is prone to spills, steam and can have a high level of humidity, which will damage untreated plywood.”

He adds, “It is more likely to last longer, as it will be less vulnerable to warping, rotting and swelling. It can also reduce the need for and frequency of repairs or replacements, as cabinetry will be resistant to moisture and less likely to develop mould or mildew.”

The tools you’ll need to waterproof plywood

The process for waterproofing plywood only needs a few tools. You will need the following:

• Sandpaper and a sanding block for edges - like these Tockrop 2 Pack 5 Inch Hand Sanding Blocks from Amazon
• Electric sander for flat surface - like this Lumberjack Random Orbital Sander from B&Q
• Microfiber cloth - like these MR.SIGA Microfiber Cleaning Cloths from Amazon
• Sealant/waterproofing product
• PPE - gloves, mask and goggles
• Paintbrushes (or mini rollers) - like this Harris Trade Paint Brush Multi-Pack from Amazon

Try these materials to help waterproof plywood

Methods for waterproofing plywood

There are various options for waterproofing plywood, depending on its intended usage. Here, Larkins lists the popular choices and their best uses.

• Oil - This is ideal if looking to retain the natural look of the plywood. Larkins says, “ The oil soaks into the wood to form a natural barrier, and although this does not provide a seal that is 100% waterproof, it still strengthens the wood and prevents moisture damage.” He adds, “This is best for outdoor decking or work surfaces.”
• Waterproof paint - Paint is resistant to water, but Larkins recommends exterior paint to protect plywood, “Water-based paints, specifically the kind meant for outdoor use, can be used to seal and waterproof plywood while also giving it colour.” He adds, “It may need to be sanded and touched up over the years, but it is still a long-lasting solution indoors and outdoors.”
• Varnish - This can be used to retain the natural look of plywood, Larkin says, “It provides a hard, fully moisture-resistant coating that has a shiny appearance.” It's also ideal for exterior wood, Larkin says, “Varnishes designed for exterior wood can expand and contract depending on the weather conditions, which can reduce peeling and cracking.”
• Other options - Larkin suggests liquid latex and epoxy as possible waterproofing options. “Epxoy can provide the wood with an additional layer of protection.” A thin layer of epoxy resin (such as this CRAFT RESIN 4L Table Top Epoxy Resin from Amazon) will dry hard and keep water out. Liquid latex is essentially rubber, making it suitable for waterproofing plywood used in floors, walls, and roofs.

Steps to waterproof plywood

Waterproofing plywood is a relatively straightforward DIY project, which includes sanding the plywood. The choice of sealant may result in slight variations. Here, Larkin runs through the process.

1. Sand plywood

Larkin says, “Start by using a fine sandpaper (120/180 grit is good) and sanding tool to gently sand down the entire surface of your plywood.” He adds, “Ensure that you use sandpaper by hand to sand the edges and crevices of the plywood.”

2. Clean up

“Remove any leftover dust from sanding using a cloth,” suggests Larkin. A damp cloth will help attract more of the dust. Ensure that the surface is free from dust and dry before continuing.

3. Apply sealant

As a general Larkin says, “Take a paintbrush and apply a thin layer of your sealant of choice to the plywood. Ensure that you follow the instructions on your sealant, as they will all have different requirements.” He adds, “Leave the sealant to fully dry and follow all of the instructions before using your plywood”.

Sealing plywood edges and joints

The edges of plywood are the weakest part of the board, making them more vulnerable to water ingress. If water penetrates between the layers, you will notice the surface start to ripple. Therefore, when waterproofing plywood, it's essential that edges and joints receive special attention.

Irving says, “When sealing plywood edges and joints, it’s important to start by sanding these areas thoroughly to ensure an even surface for the best application of the waterproof sealant.” He adds, “It can be difficult to seal edges and joints with an uneven surface, so this is an important step to avoid moisture damage over time.”

To help seal edges and joints Larkin suggests using a suitable wood filler: “You may wish to use a wood filler first to create a smoother surface to work with.” Apply with a filler knife and allow to dry before sanding.

To finish, apply your chosen sealant. Irving says, “Use a small, intricate brush or spray to ensure that the waterproof sealant covers all of the small crevices and fine lines in the edges and joints of the plywood”.

FAQs

How long will plywood stay waterproof?

There isn’t a simple answer to how long plywood will stay waterproof, shares Irving, “How long plywood will remain waterproof depends on multiple factors, including the type of plywood, the method of waterproofing used and the location of the plywood.”

For example, plywood located outdoors will be exposed to more moisture, meaning it will need rewaterproofing more often. Larkins offers a more specific timeframe: “Generally, paint or stains can last for a few years before the plywood needs to be treated again. Other methods, such as epoxy, can last for between 4 and 8 years before resealing is needed.”

He adds, “Waterproof plywood can last potentially for decades if it is cared for and maintained properly.”

What is the difference between marine plywood and standard plywood?

Hardwood and softwood plywood are considered the standard. This type of plywood is commonly used to build furniture and is also suitable for boarding and flooring. However, when working in areas where moisture is more prevalent, you can use marine plywood like this

Irving shares how it differs from standard plywood and where it’s often used: “Marine plywood is composed of durable hardwood veneers bonded together using waterproof glue, making it highly water-resistant. This makes it ideal for humid or damp environments like wet rooms, kitchens, and bathrooms.”

However, be warned, continues Irving, “Marine plywood is only water resistant, not fully waterproof unless sealed or painted”.

If you want or need to use marine plywood for a project, you will need to check your budget. Generally, a sheet of marine plywood of similar size typically costs about twice as much as standard plywood.

Plywood is great for most construction projects, including how to build pantry shelves or how to build understairs storage. Check out our guide on straight cuts with a circular saw to help get a good fit and finish on your plywood projects.

With textured wall finishes on the rise, more and more people are wondering how to limewash their walls – and whether it’s really possible to achieve a professional look by doing it yourself.

While it does require a fair amount of prep to avoid streakiness and around four coats to achieve full coverage, the good news is that limewash paint is relatively easy to apply and can produce fantastic results.

To learn how to limewash your walls, follow our experts’ step-by-step guide below. It covers everything you need to get started – including the best products, how to prep, and whether you can create a similar effect using regular emulsion paint.

How to limewash walls (traditional method)

Traditional limewash is a breathable eco paint made from slaked lime and water, and it has a purposely uneven, tonal finish. Here's how to apply it, according to Samantha-Jane Agbontaen, Interior Designer & Founder of House Designer:

1. Prepare the surface
   The key to limewash is breathability. The wall should be clean, matt, and free of synthetic coatings such as vinyl or acrylic paint. Limewash bonds best to porous materials like plaster, brick, or lime render. For new plaster, allow it to cure fully, then lightly dampen the surface with clean water before applying.
   
2. Mix the limewash
   Use matured lime putty and dilute it with clean water in roughly one part lime to two parts water. Stir until it has a smooth, milk-like consistency. For better durability, especially in high-traffic areas, you can add a little casein (a natural milk protein binder).
   
3. Apply the first coat
   Use a wide, natural bristle brush and apply in irregular, cross-hatched strokes rather than straight lines. The beauty of limewash lies in its movement and variation. The first coat will look uneven, which is completely normal. Allow it to dry for 24 hours in a well-ventilated space.
   
4. Build the layers
   Apply two or three thin coats, allowing each one to dry completely before the next. You can adjust the water ratio depending on how soft or opaque you want the finish to be. To add depth, natural pigments can be mixed in, but always test a small section first, as limewash lightens as it dries.
   
5. Finishing and maintenance
   Once the final coat is dry, leave it untouched for a few days to allow the lime to carbonate fully. This creates the characteristic chalky patina that softens over time. Unlike paint, limewash doesn’t peel; it simply ages gracefully, which is part of its charm. For maintenance, brush off dust gently and refresh with another coat when needed.

Shop these limewash essentials

How to limewash walls (paint method)

If you want to achieve a limewash finish but don’t fancy the mess that comes with it, you can create a similar effect using emulsion paint. This is a great choice for walls that aren’t very porous and is more forgiving than putty if you make a mistake.

Victoria Yardley, Founder of Victory Colours, shows you how to do it:

1. Prepare your surface
   Remove debris, dirt and grease from your walls.
   
2. Choose two complementary tones
   One colour should be slightly lighter than the other one.
   
3. Paint your base coat
   Apply the darker of the two colours evenly and let it dry completely.
   
4. Apply your “limewash” layer
   Use a large brush, sponge, or soft cloth to lightly apply the lighter shade, working in irregular, criss-cross strokes. Don’t overwork it – the charm is in the variation.
   
5. Feather the edges
   While still slightly damp, gently blend with a clean, dry brush to soften transitions and add that dreamy, mottled texture.
   
6. Stand back and admire
   The result should look layered and natural, like sunlight playing across plaster.

Our favourite faux limewash picks

If you're planning to give traditional limewash a try, Ian Masonbury, Brand Director at Armourcoat warns, "Having a precise understanding of moisture levels, application thickness, surface porosity, and timing is essential. If any of these are overlooked, the finish will invariably end up being patchy and unstable.”

Before you get started, it's worth learning about the different types of paint and what they're used for. And if you're puzzled by the price gap between premium paints and their retail equivalents, we've also answered whether expensive paint is really worth it.

When a hairline crack appears in your sink, you don’t want to leave it untreated. Fine cracks in porcelain or ceramic will soon allow water to seep through, causing damage to cabinets and flooring. If left unaddressed, the problem will only worsen, leading to costly repairs and ultimately necessitating the replacement of the sink.

Even the best kitchen sinks can become damaged, so addressing cracks and chips promptly is essential to restoring the sink to its optimal condition. It’s a task that a competent DIYer can handle. You’ll just need a few simple tools and materials, along with a bit of patience and care, to fix your sink.

Can I fix a cracked/chipped sink myself?

Anyone with good DIY skills can easily repair a cracked or chipped sink themselves. Jess Thomas, MD of Drainage Central, points out, “It can be more cost-effective than waiting for a professional to do so.”

He adds, “A damaged sink can allow water to seep through, potentially causing leaks and resulting in costly water damage.” The longer the issue is left, the more damage it can cause, so it makes sense to fix it as quickly as possible.

Try these tools to fix a cracked or chipped sink

Repair a hairline crack in a sink

Before you can start a repair, ensure you have the correct tools. Thomas recommends: epoxy putty, a putty knife, sandpaper (like this Premium Wet Dry Waterproof Sand Paper from Amazon), clean cloths and all-purpose cleaner.

Once you have gathered all the essential tools and materials, it's time to start. Thomas outlines the steps you need to follow.

1. Clean crack

Before attempting to fix the crack, you will first need to clean it, as dirt can accumulate within the crack. Clean the area thoroughly using an all-purpose cleaner and a clean cloth.

2. Measure and mix

Measure the crack, and then cut a piece of epoxy putty to roughly the same size as the crack. Mix the putty together according to the manufacturer's instructions.

3. Apply, smooth and sand

Apply the putty to the crack, smoothing it over with a putty knife. Check the manufacturer's instructions, as the putty may need time to cure. Finally, gently sand the putty with a 240-320 grit sandpaper until it is flush with the sink's surface, and allow it to dry.

Repair a chipped sink

Fixing a chipped sink bears a lot of similarities to fixing a cracked sink. You will need the same tools and materials, but you will need to tackle the job in a slightly different way.

Here Thomas explains the process when you have the chipped sink piece to use.

1. Sand and clean

Gently sand the chipped sink piece and the area that is chipped. Use a clean cloth to wipe away any dust from the area created by sanding.

2. Mix and fix

Prepare the epoxy adhesive according to the manufacturer's instructions. This will usually require you to mix a resin and hardener together. Apply the adhesive to the chipped area, and carefully place the chipped piece back into position. Gently apply pressure to the piece to ensure that it fits snugly.

3. Clean up

Wipe away excess adhesive with a clean cloth, and allow the adhesive to dry for the recommended time. Do not use the sink until the adhesive is fully dry.

Fix a chipped sink

If you do not have the chipped piece of the sink, the alternative is to use epoxy putty to fill the gap. However, if you have a large chip, it's probably time to invest in a new sink.

1. Clean and mix

Clean the gap with an all-purpose cleaner and allow it to dry. Cut a piece of the epoxy putty to the size of the chip in the sink. Mix the putty until it is a uniform colour, and then apply it to the chipped area to fill in the hole.

2. Smooth and sand

Use a putty knife to smooth the putty, attempting to get it as flush with the sink's surface as possible. If the putty is not completely flush with the sink, gently sand it with fine sandpaper.

Ensure the putty is allowed to dry for the recommended amount of time, and refrain from using the sink for at least 24 hours to allow it to cure properly.

FAQ

How much does a pro charge to repair a sink?

While you can attempt to fix a cracked sink yourself, you might feel that your DIY skills are up to the task, or you simply lack the time. If so, consider hiring a professional.

Thomas outlines the expected costs: “The cost of hiring a professional to repair a sink can vary between £130 and £300, with the final amount depending on the severity of the damage and the material of the sink is made of.”He adds, “If the damage is severe enough that it affects the sink’s structural integrity, you may be advised to replace the sink entirely.” This is another project that a confident DIYer can tackle. Follow our bathroom sink installation guide to do it yourself.

If you decide to call in a professional, Thomas offers some advice: “Although a plumber can fix any leaks or damaged parts caused by a cracked or chipped sink, repairing the actual crack or chip is better suited to a handyman or a sink repair specialist.”

Fixing a cracked sink is a cost-effective solution to the problem. But it could be the perfect time to replace the sink. Explore our bathroom sink ideas, small bathroom sink ideas, and kitchen sink ideas for inspiration.

If you've noticed the signs of a rodent infestation, you might be wondering how to get rid of rats in your home. While they're active year-round, you'll probably see an increase in activity during the autumn and winter months, when it's cold outside and they seek shelter.

Just like mice, these sneaky scavengers can be a nuisance in your home – chewing up wires, spreading oily marks on your walls, and, worst of all, leaving droppings on your floors. Not only can they damage your property, but they also have the potential to spread diseases, such as salmonella and hantavirus, so they're not something you want lurking in your home.

Rats can be tricky to remove once they've settled in, which is why we've called in pest control experts for their advice on eliminating them. Below, you'll find their six-step guide for getting rid of rats for good, along with product recommendations and the signs to watch out for.

1. Try a live trap

One of the most effective ways to get rid of rats in your home is by setting up a humane trap, which allows you to catch the rodent alive without harming it.

Once you've caught one, Tony King, Owner and Manager of The Pied Piper, recommends releasing it at least one to two miles from your home. If possible, choose a wooded or rural area far from homes or farms, so the rat is unable to find its way back.

He adds, "Humane traps should be checked at least two times a day to avoid having rats left in pain or in temperatures that are too extreme."

2. Seal entry points

Rats can fit through gaps as small as a quarter of an inch, so Tony King says it's important to seal any entry points they could squeeze through. Common areas for holes include windows and doors, roofs and lofts, garages and storage areas, and vents and ducts.

Tony recommends using steel wool, copper mesh, or metal flashing to keep them out. Avoid using materials like plastic or wood as rats will eventually chew through them. Sealing up your home is also a great way to get rid of slugs and other unwanted visitors that try to come inside.

Sealant products we recommend

3. Remove food sources

One of the quickest ways to attract rats into your home is by leaving food out and unattended – rats see this as an invitation to feast! Tony King recommends storing your food in sealed containers (like these glass containers from Amazon) and cleaning your kitchen counters of crumbs.

Another often-overlooked area is the bins. “Remember to regularly empty your bins to discourage rats from inhabiting your home,” advises Tony. To prevent them even further, choose a bin with a tight-fitting lid and move it away from walls so rats can’t climb inside easily.

4. Rat-proof your garden

Many people unknowingly attract rats into their homes, and it often starts in the garden! Leaving fruit drops or birdseed on the ground, or having a compost bin without a secure, heavy lid, can encourage rats to come inside.

Tony King recommends removing excessive undergrowth, clearing away piles of debris, and storing firewood off the ground (use the best log store instead).

5. Use a natural repellent

When it comes to using natural repellents, peppermint, eucalyptus, and clove work best, according to Deepak Shukla, CEO of PL Pest Control. These strong-smelling essential oils are fairly cheap on Amazon and will help to deter rats from entering your home and garden.

Deepak says, "Soak a few cotton balls in peppermint oil. Pop them wherever you’ve spotted activity, like under the sink, behind the bin or in one of the small gaps along the wall."

6. Ultrasonic repellents

And lastly, Tony King also recommends using an ultrasonic repellent – an electronic device that emits high-frequency sound waves to deter pests. These sounds are inaudible to humans but can be irritating and disruptive to rats.

What are the signs of rats in your home?

If you're wondering whether you have rats in the first place, Tony King says to watch out for the following signs:

1. Noises: "You can hear scurrying or scratching sounds during the night, particularly behind the walls, in the attic, or under floorboards."

2. Droppings: "One of the most positive signs is droppings. They are dark, spindle-shaped and half an inch long. They are typically found along walls, in cupboards, or under appliances."

3. Gnaw marks: "You can also see gnaw marks on electrical wires, plastic buckets, or baseboards since rats chew round the clock to avoid their teeth from growing too long."

4. Oily rub marks: "Another common sign is the presence of oily rub marks on walls or runways, caused by dirt and oil in their coats."

5. Nests: "Rats usually build nests out of ripped paper, insulating material, or fabric and hide them in hidden, cozy spots like attics, garages, or under kitchen sinks."

FAQs

What time of year are rats most active?

Rats can infest at any time of the year, but Tony King, Owner and Manager of The Pied Piper, says they're most likely to cause issues during autumn and winter, when the temperatures get lower. During these seasons, they look for heat, shelter and food – and places like your house, shed and garage make the perfect spots.

Tony adds, "Rats in warmer climates, however, can breed and thrive year-round if they have a food supply and access to water. One group of rats may have up to six litters per year, so a small infestation could quickly become huge if left untreated early on, so prevention and monitoring have to continue."

Where do rats hide during the day?

Tony says that rats are most active at dawn and dusk, so they can scavenge for food while avoiding predators. During the day, they hide in dark, quiet, and confined spaces, breeding in your attic, basement, wall cavities, or behind large appliances. Outdoors, they take shelter in burrows, compost heaps, under garden sheds, or in dense shrubs, so remember to keep your trees trimmed back.

Tony says, "Rats are nocturnal animals, and the majority of their foraging, feeding, exploring, and nesting is done at night. They rest and remain immobile by day to avoid predators and humans. When you find rats during the day, it typically indicates a massive infestation since overcrowding forces some of them to venture out of their usual nightly foraging."

Having rats in your home can be unsettling, but by following the tips above, you can get rid of them quickly and prevent them from returning in the future.

If you're struggling with other household pests, read our guide on how to get rid of squirrels in your attic.

If you're prone to allergic reactions or asthma symptoms, you might be wondering how to get rid of dust mites. These seemingly harmless microscopic creatures don't bite or spread disease, but their waste and body fragments can trigger reactions in sensitive people.

Dust mites feed on dead skin flakes from humans and animals, making our mattresses, bedding and carpets the perfect places for them to live. They thrive in humid conditions and reproduce quickly, so it's important to keep humidity levels below 50%.

Just like their distant cousins – the spider and the tick – there are several things you can do to get rid of them, such as regular cleaning and using natural deterrents. To discover the best ways to banish them and spot the signs of an infestation, we asked pest control experts for their advice.

How to get rid of dust mites

1. Regular cleaning
To deter dust mites, make sure you're washing your bedding, sheets, pillowcases, and duvet covers once a week in hot water, advises Daniel Steward, Managing Director at Shield Pest Control.

If a hot wash isn’t possible, he recommends tumble drying on high heat for around 10 to 15 minutes. You'll also want to vacuum your mattresses, carpets and upholstery weekly, as well as steam-clean your soft furnishings.

2. Use protective covers
Your bed is one of the most popular spots for dust mites, so Daniel suggests protecting your pillows and mattress with a dust mite-proof cover (like the one below).

“Reduce the number of soft surfaces where mites can live – swap out heavy curtains for washable blinds, limit plush toys, and avoid wall-to-wall carpeting in bedrooms if possible," he adds. "Keeping your space simple makes cleaning easier and more effective.”

3. Keep the air cool and dry
Since dust mites thrive in warm, humid environments, try to keep the air as cool and dry as possible in your home. Daniel recommends maintaining temperatures below 21°C and humidity levels under 50%, which the best dehumidifier can help you to achieve.

4. Try natural treatments
In addition to the steps above, you can try a natural treatment such as sprinkling a mixture of baking soda and a few drops of essential oil on your mattress or carpet. Let it sit for an hour, then vacuum it up.

Top products to deter dust mites

What smell repels dust mites?

Using strong-smelling natural oils (like these essential oils from Amazon) is another great way to repel dust mites. Daniel Steward recommends tea tree, eucalyptus, lavender, clove, peppermint, and lemongrass.

Here’s how to apply them in your home:

1. Mix a few drops of essential oil with water or white vinegar in a spray bottle
2. Lightly mist your mattress, bedding, carpets, curtains and upholstery
3. Add a few drops of oil to your laundry when washing bedding in hot water
4. Let everything dry completely before use

How do you know if you have dust mites?

1. Skin irritation
Have you noticed mild rashes, itching, or eczema flare-ups? According to Daniel Steward, this could be a sign of dust mites – especially if your skin improves when you’re away from home. You might also see small red bumps or irritated patches on your face, neck, or arms.

2. Environmental clues
We can’t see dust mites with the naked eye, but you can look for signs in your home, such as dust buildup on furniture or musty-smelling bedding.

3. Allergy symptoms
If dust mites are present in your home, you might experience symptoms such as sneezing, a runny or stuffy nose, itchy or watery eyes, coughing, or wheezing. Daniel notes that these symptoms are usually worse at night or in the morning.

Where do dust mites live?

Dust mites are commonly found in bedding, mattresses, upholstered furniture and carpets, according to Tony King, pest control expert at The Pied Piper. He explains that pillows are the worst offenders, as they trap warmth and moisture from our breath and skin.

He says, "Studies indicate that a pillow's weight can escalate by as much as 10% after two years of usage, due to the presence of dust mites and their waste."

Dust mites are found in nearly all homes in the UK, and around one in five adults and one in twenty children are allergic to them, according to the NHS. However, by following the steps above, you can help reduce these symptoms.

For more pest control advice, check out our tips on how to get rid of silverfish – another unwanted creature that thrives in humid conditions.

You might think that tiling on wooden floors is as simple as sticking tiles straight onto the timber. But we can assure it isn’t that straightforward. Wood expands and contracts, so it needs to be prepared properly, using the right materials, for a successful and long-lasting finish.

If you don’t prepare a wooden floor or wall correctly, the tiles can crack and lift, meaning you’ll be tiling a floor much sooner than you wanted. Here you’ll find out how to prep floorboards, treat plywood and discover what type of board you could need to ensure your tiles stay where they are meant to.

Check your wooden floor

If you have a wooden floor that you want to tile, there are a few checks you will need to make first. Laying tiles directly onto floorboards is a no-no, says Mark Irving, Building expert Mark Irving, from Build & Plumb, “You can’t lay tiles directly onto wooden floorboards as the individual floorboards are susceptible to movement, which can result in the cracking of the tiles and grout.”

If you have hardwood or MDF over the floorboards, these are not ideal choices as they absorb water, which can lead to issues later on. You can tile onto plywood, but it requires a minimum depth of 18mm and must be securely fastened to joists or the subfloor. You’ll need to check that there is no movement.

Additionally, plywood will need to be primed with a suitable primer, such as the BAL APD Primer, available on Amazon. Any joints will also need to be filled with a silicone sealant to prevent tile adhesive from seeping into the gaps.

Irving suggests an alternative to wood that will work well “Prior to tiling a wooden floor, it’s important to install a cement backer board between the tiles and the wooden flooring. This will provide a stable and flat surface for the tiles to sit on, preventing cracks from forming in the grout.”

Try these tools to help tile on wooden floors

Level the floor

The first step is to ensure that you have a level floor before introducing a subfloor or board. There is no point adding a subfloor to an uneven floor, as this will cause issues later on. Floorboards are usually the biggest culprit.

Irving explains how to level out as best as possible, “To level a wooden floor before tiling it’s important to identify any loose floorboards.” He adds, “To do this, walk carefully over your flooring and identify movement or creaking boards. Mark the creaking floorboards using a pencil and carefully nail the floorboards down to secure them.”

Check the floor with a two metre (or longer) straight edge to ensure that there are no high ridges. A floor should be no more than plus or minus 3mm to ensure tiles stick properly. If there are any ridges, these can be flattened out with an electric sander or, if needed, an electric plane (like this DNTI-500w Electric Hand Wood Planer from Amazon). If there are any dips, use a suitable filler or levelling compound suitable for wood.

How to prepare a wooden floor for tiling

Before you start tiling, ensure you have enough tiles to cover the entire floor. Measure the square meterage and remember to add ten percent for wastage

1. Secure floorboards

Before any tiles or subfloor is laid, Irving says, “Secure any loose floorboards to provide a smooth and even surface for your tiles. Walk over your floorboards and identify any that move or creak. Nail or screw down any loose floorboards to prevent further movement. Ensure that you identify any pipes or wiring before proceeding to avoid costly mistakes.”

2. Add subfloor

There are several options for a subfloor, but Irving recommends cement backer board. “Next, it's time to choose your overboard that you will place over the wooden floorboards as a base for your tiles.” He adds, “A cement backer board is a good choice.”

However, before you lay the backer board, Irving says, “Prior to laying your overboard, make sure to give your wooden floorboards a deep clean. Then install your overboard using screws and adhesive, and avoid any gaps, as over time this can cause movement.”

One tip when installing cement backer board is to use a mesh tape (like this Gorilla Filler Plasterboard & Drywall Mesh Tape from Amazon) over any gaps to help the adhesive work properly.

3. Prime floor

To finish the preparation, Irving recommends adding a primer, “Prime your overboard using a Styrene-Butadiene Rubber (SBR) primer, as this will improve the durability of the tiles by offering good adhesion. Leave the primer to fully dry before laying the tiles”

If using plywood, a primer will definitely be needed. However, you may not need to prime the backer board. Check the manufacturer's recommendations. This typically indicates whether the board requires priming, depending on the type of adhesive being used.

Tile adhesive to use

This will depend on what type of subfloor you have installed. If you have a wooden floor, such as plywood, then you need to use a flexible tile adhesive like Mapei Super Flexible Grey Tile Adhesive from B&Q. This helps mitigate any movement in the subfloor. If cement backer board has been used to cover a wooden floor, you can use a standard tile adhesive suitable for floors.

FAQs

Can you tile wood walls?

The same principle applies to wooden walls as to wooden floors. If you have plywood on walls, it needs to be flat, primed and securely fitted; otherwise, you will encounter problems, as Irving points out, “Tiling straight onto wooden walls should be avoided as the tiles can move and crack as the wood expands and contracts”.

If tiling onto wooden walls, Irving says, “A cement backer board should be used on wooden walls to provide a durable, rigid and moisture-resistant base before tiling.”

Do you need to waterproof wooden floors/walls if tiling in a bathroom?

When tiling in an area with high moisture content, such as a bathroom or wet room, any wooden floors or walls need to be protected. Irving says, “Prior to tiling a bathroom, it’s important to ensure that walls and floors are waterproof, as tiles and grout alone will not protect your walls and floor from water damage and wood rot.”

One option is to use tile backer boards, but you need to check if they are waterproof. Irving says, “Although tiling backer boards can provide moisture protection, not all cement backer boards are fully waterproof; some are only water resistant.” He adds, “If this is the case, then tanking your walls and floors will be necessary to prevent moisture damage.”

A fully waterproof backer board is typically more expensive than standard backer board, so using a paint-on waterproofing system (like this Everbuild Aquaseal Waterproof Tanking Membrane from Amazon) is an alternative option. You simply need to apply it on top of the backer board, along with tanking tape (like this Nassboards Waterproof Tanking Tape from Amazon) on joints.

If you are looking to tile your bathroom or kitchen, make sure to check out kitchen floor tile ideas and bathroom tiling ideas. Also, read our Where to buy bathroom floor tiles guide to help you get what you want at the price you want.

As the weather gets wetter, you might start wondering how to get rid of slugs in your home. These slimy pests can be an absolute nuisance – leaving a silvery mucus trail across your furniture, contaminating your surfaces, and posing a threat if you live with pets who might try to eat them.

If you've ever dealt with a slug infestation, you'll know how hard these critters are to get rid of and that they don't back down easily. Thankfully, there are plenty of ways to prevent them from invading your space in the first place – from managing the moisture levels to setting up barriers. Many of these methods also help keep other unwanted creatures, like mice, out as well.

To find out the easiest ways to get rid of slugs in your home, we spoke with a pest control expert for their top prevention tips. Read on for a step-by-step guide, recommended products, and insights into why slugs might suddenly appear.

1. Seal up gaps to stop slugs from entering

Did you know that slugs can fit through gaps as small as 5mm? That’s why it’s important to carry out a proper inspection of your home for any openings they might sneak through.

According to Tony King, pest control expert at The Pied Piper, you should pay close attention to gaps around window frames, under doors and where pipes enter your home. These spots are easy access points for slugs to slither through, as well as places that provide shelter, darkness and dampness.

When it comes to sealing them up, Tony says that silicone caulk, weatherstripping, and door sweeps work wonders – and as a bonus, they also help keep out spiders, draughts and unwanted insects.

Top products for sealing your home

2. Manage your moisture levels

One of the best ways to keep the slugs out is by keeping your home as dry as possible. Slugs prefer damp environments because they need constant moisture to survive – whether it’s producing the slime that allows them to move, breathing through their skin, or preventing their bodies from drying out.

Tony King says, "Slugs often come inside after entering holes in damp basements, utility rooms, or even under poorly sealed outside doors. Fixing leaky taps, pipes or unattended bathrooms can do much to deter an infestation."

You should also be careful about leaving wet towels lying around or keeping potted plants indoors, as Tony warns that these create an ideal setting for slugs. If your house feels damp, consider investing in one of the best dehumidifiers, which remove excess moisture from the air and help prevent mould and mildew.

3. Put up barriers for the slugs

Another effective way to keep slugs out is to set up barriers around your home. One of Tony King's top recommendations is copper tape, which gives slugs a mild electric shock when they try to cross it. It can be wrapped around windowsills, doorways, and garden edges to block these accessible entry points. This EVG copper slug tape from Amazon would be suitable for this.

Andy McLaughlin, Landscaping Specialist at RF Paving, also suggests using copper tape around the perimeters of plant pots (whether indoors or outdoors) which could also enhance the appearance.

Tony says, "Another practical tip I generally give is the use of grit-like substances, such as diatomaceous earth or ground eggshells, along the perimeter of the house. These leave a rough surface that slugs find unpalatable."

4. Use strong scents to deter slugs

One of the easiest (and cheapest) ways to get rid of slugs in your home is to repel them with strong-smelling scents they find unpleasant or toxic. Tony King suggests using coffee grounds, garlic and lemon rinds, which you probably already have in your kitchen cupboard. Alternatively, this peppermint essential oil from Amazon or this eucalyptus oil, also available at Amazon, can work well.

Tony says, "The strong odour overwhelms their ability to smell and the situation is less appealing. Salt is not so much a smell repellent; it's really more of an immediate physical irritant, but it will certainly repel them if used sparingly along perimeters."

Why do slugs suddenly appear in the house?

Slugs usually appear for three reasons: moisture, food, and shelter. According to Tony King, they are attracted to places that can absorb water, such as dead plants, soft vegetables, and leaves.

You’re most likely to spot them in basements, greenhouses, and home garages, where there is often plenty of moisture, as well as stored vegetables and potted plants that they can use as a food source. These locations also provide the perfect dark, damp and cool conditions for them to hide from heat, sun, and predators.

As a final point, Tony King suggests keeping a close eye on your kitchen and utility room for any spilled pet food, rotting vegetables, or other organic materials that could attract slugs. Make sure your surfaces are kept clean, free of mess, and – most importantly – dry.

For more expert-backed pest control advice, check out our top tips on how to get rid of carpet moths and prevent damage to your home.

You're not alone if you're wondering how to get rid of mice in your home. As the weather gets colder, you might see an increase in unexpected visitors, including these furry little rodents.

Whether you find them cute or not, mice can cause more problems than simply chewing up your furniture, wires and insulation; they can also transmit dangerous diseases like salmonella and leptospirosis. During the autumn and winter months, other common pests, like spiders, might sneak into your home too.

Since mice reproduce very quickly, it's important to act fast if you suspect an infestation – or, even better, to introduce preventative methods to stop them in the first place. To help you keep these unwelcome intruders at bay, we've asked the experts for their preferred methods for getting rid of mice from your home.

1. Try natural deterrents

One of the easiest (and cheapest) ways to prevent mice in your home is to use a natural repellent, such as peppermint oil, cinnamon oil, cloves, or vinegar on cotton balls placed near your skirting boards and entryways.

Since mice have such a strong sense of smell, scented oils can be off-putting for them, explains Darren Backhouse, Partner at MJ Backhouse Pest Control. However, he stresses that this doesn't work as a long-term fix if you already have an infestation, though it can be used alongside preventative measures, like sealing gaps (which also helps with draught-proofing windows).

"If you've taken all the other measures, then a strong scent adds that extra layer of deterrent, but it doesn't address the cause," he says. "Cotton balls need refreshing every few days or so to get the most out of it."

2. Check eaves, roof tiles and loft spaces for signs of mice

Don't forget about eaves, roof tiles, and loft spaces – these are common places where mice can take shelter, warns Darren Backhouse. These areas are trickier to spot and manage, but if you've noticed droppings, scratching noises, shredded loft insulation, or daylight peeking through the tiles, it's likely you’ve got a problem.

You'll need to repair or replace any damaged tiles, seal gaps, trim back nearby trees that could provide easy access, and regularly check these areas for signs of an infestation.

3. Seal holes and cracks to stop mice getting in

You’d be surprised at how small a gap mice can squeeze through, which is why Darren Backhouse recommends checking your doors and windows for holes and sealing them as needed, using caulking or tape.

The same applies for holes and cracks in your walls, which are common entry points that can connect the outside of your home to the inside. Some of the most common examples Darren sees are holes around pipework and open-air brick vents, which he recommends sealing with wire mesh.

Seal potential access points with these buys

4. Keep on top of garden maintenance

By keeping your garden well-maintained, you'll reduce the chances of mice nesting nearby. "Keep bushes and trees trimmed back and away from the house as much as possible to prevent mice from climbing them as an access point," says Darren Backhouse.

Overgrown bushes and long grass create safe hiding spots for mice, while fallen fruit, open vegetable patches, and birdseed provide food sources that attract them closer. Be sure to pick up any fallen branches that touch your home's walls or windows, as these can provide an easy way for mice to get inside.

5. Eliminate food sources

The fastest way to attract mice into your home? Leaving food sources lying around. If you want to get rid of them, remember to keep your kitchen bin lids closed and avoid leaving fruit bowls, pet food or birdseed out – especially in the colder months when mice are actively seeking food and shelter, explains Darren Backhouse. Wheelie bin storage ideas are another good way to try and keep rodents aways from rubbish areas.

Daniel Brown, CEO of Handy Cleaners adds, "Regular deep cleaning, especially behind appliances and in cupboards snuffs out any food sources that might attract pests."

6. Set up a humane trap

Preventative methods and natural deterrents can go a long way, but sometimes the best solution for peace of mind is to set up a trap. The good news is that you can buy humane mouse traps that don’t kill the mice; instead, they trap them inside a plastic container, allowing you to set them free in a safe (and faraway!) location.

To ensure they don't return, choose a spot at least a mile from your home – preferably a place with natural shrubs and tall grass to provide cover from predators. Put on a pair of gloves, place the trap on the ground, and let the mouse exit on its own.

How to tell if you have mice in your home

Unsure if you have mice in the first place? Darren Backhouse says to look for the following signs:

• Small droppings: Keep an eye out for mouse droppings, which are about the size of a grain of rice, pointed at the ends, and dark brown or black in colour. You'll often see them along walls, in corners, or near food sources.
• Gnaw marks on food packaging, wooden furniture or wires: Since mice’s teeth never stop growing, they must gnaw frequently to keep them worn down. This is why you might find your belongings chewed-up if mice are present.
• Scratching noises in walls and ceilings: Mice are nocturnal, so you'll probably hear them scratching in your walls and ceilings at night. However, this could also be squirrels in your attic.
• Finding shredded paper or textiles: Mice nest year-round, but nesting activity can increase during the autumn and winter months when they move inside for warmth. They like to use soft, fibrous materials, so finding shredded paper or textiles is a warning sign.

What common mistakes attract mice?

There are many ways people mistakenly (and unknowingly) attract mice into their homes. Here are some of the most common mistakes Daniel Brown sees. Are you making any of them?

1. Keeping pet food or open fruit bowls out overnight
2. Storing dry goods in flimsy cardboard rather than airtight containers like these from Amazon.
3. Neglecting maintenance checks
4. Ignoring gaps around pipes and under sinks
5. Stacking wood or garden debris up against the outside wall

As soon as you spot a mouse, Darren Backhouse recommends identifying the entry point, following the prevention tips above, and setting humane traps if necessary. However, if you’ve tried everything and nothing seems to work, it may be time to call in the professionals.

For more expert advice on tackling common household pests, read our tips on how to get rid of silverfish – the moisture-loving insects that often appear in bathrooms, kitchens, and basements.

Sanding metal is a crucial part of the preparation process when restoring radiators, preparing garden furniture for painting, and freshening up a front gate. It's also a great way to remove rust by cleaning affected surfaces.

However, when sanding metal, it's essential to select the right tools, choose the appropriate sandpaper grits, and employ the correct techniques to achieve the smooth, clean finish you need. Get it wrong and you could be doubling your workload or be left with a less-than-satisfactory surface. Here, you’ll find all you need to know to ensure that doesn’t happen.

Commonly sanded metals

Sanding metal is a common process for a variety of reasons, as Paul McFadyen, metal expert and chairman at metals4U, explains: “Whether it’s for a DIY project, restoration, or prep for painting, there are various metal items that commonly need sanding.”

He continues, “Steel and wrought iron are typically used for gates, railings, garden furniture, and radiators, and are usually sanded to remove any rust and peeling paint before repainting.”

McFadyen mentions other popular options “Similarly, aluminium items like car parts and bodywork, cookware, and certain tools and machinery, will benefit from sanding to restore shine and improve the adhesion of any finishes. Sanding aluminium can smooth over any scratches and prepare these items for paint and polish.”

Protective equipment you'll need

When working with metal, it's essential that you have the right safety gear to protect yourself. Leigh Start, managing director at The Metal Store, says, “Safety should never be overlooked.” He recommends that you always wear the following:

• Protective gloves to prevent cuts from sharp metal edges.
• Safety goggles to shield against dust and particles.
• A dust mask or respirator to avoid inhaling fine metal dust.
• Ear protection if using power tools.

Try these tools for sanding metal

Tools you’ll need to sand metal

What tools you’ll need to sand metal will depend on what type of sanding job you are tackling. Here Start lists the common options:

• Orbital sander for larger jobs.
• Wire brush or flap wheel attachments for removing rust.
• Sanding blocks for hand sanding.
• Detail sanders or sanding sponges for hard-to-reach areas.

Best ways to sand metal

Before any sanding is performed, McFadyen advises that it needs cleaning first: “The first step is to always clean the metal surface to remove any dirt or grease that could interfere with the sanding process. Make sure the metal is fully dry before sanding.”

McFadyen offers one essential tip to follow: “Start with a coarser grit and move to a finer one as you progress. A coarse grit will help to remove rust and paint before further sanding, whereas a fine grit will give a smoother finish.” Once the metal is dry and you can use one of the following methods.

Using a power sander

Using a power sander can help speed up the sanding process, but it must be used correctly. McFadyen says, “Make sure to keep the tool moving to avoid creating deep scratches and heat spots.”

He points out, “A common mistake people make when sanding is pressing too hard, which can create uneven surfaces and scratches.” He adds, “Excessive force can damage the metal, so stick to a moderate pressure. If you find yourself needing to press harder for an effective job, you should switch to a coarser grit.”

A power sander (like a random orbital sander) is the preferred choice for larger flat areas. However, for more detailed/intricate areas and edges, switching to hand sanding is the best choice.

Sanding by hand

For general hand sanding, Start says, “Hand sanding involves using a sheet of sandpaper (often wrapped around a sanding block) and working in smooth, even strokes across the surface. The key is patience and consistency.” He adds, “Avoid pressing too hard, which can leave gouges or an uneven finish.”

For more intricate areas where a sanding block won’t work, you can use the sandpaper directly in your hand. Alternatively, you can use a sanding sponge (like these Sanding Sponges from Amazon). These will fit the shape of the metal being sanded.

Sanding mistakes to avoid

It's easy to make mistakes when sanding. Here Start offers four tips to help ensure the sanding process goes smoothly.

• Using sandpaper that’s too coarse, which can scratch the metal beyond repair.
• Skipping grits - moving from very coarse straight to fine leaves visible marks.
• Applying uneven pressure, which causes dips in the surface.
• Forgetting to clean the metal before and after sanding, leading to debris being trapped under paint or coatings.

Best sandpaper for sanding metal

Start recommends the following sandpapers for sanding metal, “Aluminium oxide sandpaper is the go-to for most metalwork thanks to its durability. For stainless steel, silicon carbide papers are better as they cut cleaner and faster.” Both of these can be easily found online or at your local hardware store.

McFadyen explains what grits to use, “For heavy rust and paint removal, you’ll likely want to choose a coarse 40-80 grit sandpaper. For smoothing rough surfaces, progress to 120-180 grit sandpaper. Finally, 220-240 grit sandpaper will give your metal a polished finish."

He adds, “Steel is typically stronger than aluminium and can handle coarser grits, whereas wet sanding with a medium grit is more effective for aluminium to prevent warping. Copper and brass are much softer, so you’ll need to choose a finer grit and use gentle pressure to prevent scratching.”

FAQs

What is the best way to clean metal after sanding?

After sanding metal, it's recommended to clean the metal before moving on to the next stage. Start says, “Once sanding is complete, wipe the surface down with a clean cloth and a solvent such as acetone or white spirit.” He adds, “This removes fine dust and grease, ensuring the surface is completely ready for paint, primer or sealant.”

Should I use water when sanding metal?

Water is sometimes suggested to be used when sanding metal but Start suggests you don’t. “Avoid using water when sanding most metals. Moisture encourages flash rusting, which can undo all your hard work. Instead, keep the area dry and clean as you go.”

He adds, “Wet sanding is sometimes used in specialist applications such as car bodywork, but for most home and garden metal projects, keeping the process dry is safer and more effective.”

If you’re looking to update your radiators, you’ll need to sand and prep before you start. To get the finish you want, check out our guides How to paint a radiator and How to paint behind a radiator. Alternatively, if you don’t want to paint your radiators, try our radiator cover ideas for inspiration.

Skirting boards are made to protect the bottom of walls from knocks and kicks. Which means they endure a lot of wear and tear. You can clean and paint them regularly, but eventually they will need replacing, which is a messy and time-consuming task.

A sweet alternative to replacing or painting skirting boards is to invest in skirting over skirting. This is a quick, easy and almost mess-free alternative that any DIYer can tackle without worry.

Find out all you need to know about skirting over skirting to transform your home with a stylish new look in this guide.

What is skirting over skirting?

There is a clue in the name, as Paul Kerr, building specialist at Beatsons Building Supplies, points out, "Skirting over skirting is exactly that, it's in essence a way of layering new skirting boards on top of pre-existing ones.” Skirting over skirting is also known by several other names, including skirting overclads, over-skirting, or, most commonly, skirting board covers.

Scott Godfrey, Carpenter and owner of Black Hammer, gives a quick summary of what they do: “Instead of removing the old boards, the covers are designed to fit neatly on top.” He adds, “Skirting board covers give the appearance of brand-new skirting without the disruption of tearing out the original.”

The pros and cons of skirting over skirting

+ Simple to install

Introducing skirting over skirting is a much simpler process when compared with fitting a standard skirting board. Kerr says, “It's just straightforward to do, you don't need to remove the old skirting.” Godfrey adds, “Homeowners can achieve a clean, updated finish quickly, making it a popular choice in renovations where minimal upheaval is preferred.”

+ Less mess

Removing skirting boards can be a messy job, but with skirting over skirting, Kerr says, “You don't need to go through the mess of removing them from the wall and damaging the plaster already in place. Less labour, less dust, less wall damage.”

Godfrey adds, “The main advantage of adding skirting over skirting is that it saves considerable labour and avoids damage to walls.”

+ Quick to fit

Fitting skirting over skirting is a real time-saver. First, you don’t need to remove the old skirting board. Second, you don’t need to worry about carrying out any repairs, which can be very time-consuming, before you fix the new skirting. An added bonus of a quick fit is that a quick change in style. Godfrey says, “Whether opting for a classic ogee or torus design or going for a more contemporary square profile, the covers provide flexibility in updating the overall look.”

Try these skirting board covers for a quick makeover

- Limited design

While there are plenty of skirting board cover choices, there aren’t as many as standard skirting, as Kerr shares, “There is also a limit on design; there aren't too many cover profiles that you can buy when compared to new skirting boards.”

- Not always a good fit

To ensure that any new skirting over skirting looks its best, the current skirting needs to be in good condition, as Kerr points out, “In cases where the current skirting is damaged or uneven, layering a cover may not sit flush and look a little out of place." This can mean more work, so weigh up costs and time between replacement and skirting over skirting. To fill any small gaps, check our guide on caulking skirting boards.

- Reduced floor space

As you might expect, adding additional skirting over the skirting can double the space the skirting takes up, as Kerr points out, “First, you will be taking up a bit more space in the room; this may not be a great deal, but it can be noticeable in narrow hallways”

Godfrey adds, “The additional layer adds bulk, and the walls can appear slightly heavier.” Additionally, you will be adding extra height, so it's a good idea to note how this will affect the room's aesthetic and a radiator's height from the floor and skirting board.

Types of skirting board covers

Skirting over skirting is commonly made from MDF, PVC, and hardwood, with each having its plus points, as Kerr shares, “All three materials have their advantages.” He continues, “MDF is the most cost-effective and easiest to paint when painting skirting boards. PVC is the most waterproof material, making it suitable for use in bathrooms. And with hardwood, although it has a bit of a premium, it is the most durable of the materials."

Alongside the materials, you need to consider the depth: "Most skirting board covers will have a decent depth of 15-25mm to ensure that they will fit over existing boards easily.” But be warned, you will need to check the current depth of your skirting board to ensure a good fit. For example, this National Skirting Venice MDF Skirting Board Cover from B&Q is 25mm thick and can cover an existing skirting board up to 18mm thick. This means it adds around 7-8mm to the depth of the skirting board.

Lastly, there are limited styles, but the popular options are typically available to help enhance or even replicate the existing skirting boards, as Kerr shares. “Most skirting board covers will attempt to mimic the most popular skirting board designs out there - ogee, bullnose, chamfered, square and more."

Fixing skirting board covers

Skirting board covers are designed to fit over existing boards and the quickest and easiest method for fixing is adhesive, as Kerr shares, “The most common method is probably a grab adhesive,” He adds, “It is simple to apply and holds strongly to the existing boards.”

Before adding any grab adhesive to the existing skirting boards, make sure that they are clean and dry to help with adhesion. Use a sugar soap solution to get rid of dirt and grease, wipe dry with a cloth and leave to dry.

Another option is to use the common option for fitting skirting boards, explains Kerr, “Adding pins or nails gives the board that bit of extra security.” He adds, “In rare cases, you also come across PVC clip-on systems, though grab adhesive remains the go-to in most domestic settings."

FAQ

Do you have to pay extra for skirting board covers?

Skirting board covers are typically more expensive than standard skirting boards, but not excessively so. Kerr explains why, “The lift in price is due to the addition of more material depth in the overlay.”

Standard skirting boards like this Planed Pine Bullnose Half round Skirting board from B&Q are around £4 a metre. Shop around and you can find basic, plain skirting for less.

Skirting board covers typically start at around £8-10 a metre. While the material cost for skirting board covers is higher, the real saving lies elsewhere, explains Kerr, “The real saving is in labour, you won't have to remove the old material, clean up plaster or dust and re-even the surface.”

When fitting skirting board covers, ensure you refer to our guide on cutting skirting boards to achieve a neat fit. After fitting, check our guides on sanding skirting boards and how to paint skirting boards with carpet to get a clean finish.

Painting over varnished wood is a quick, simple and cost-effective way to restore wood. It can bring a new aesthetic, hide unwanted imperfections and give it a new lease of life. A new splash of colour can make it blend with your latest design ideas without spending big.

However, you need to ensure you get your prep right, so that exquisite new colour you’ve added stays looking good for longer. When painting wood, poor preparation and paint choice will soon reveal what lies beneath. But follow the tips in this guide, and you'll get it right the first time.

Can I paint directly over varnished wood?

You can paint onto varnished wood, but, like all paint projects, you will need to do some preparation to ensure a good finish, explains Paul Kerr, Building specialist at Beatsons. "Technically, yes, you can paint directly onto varnished wood. However, it is difficult to keep paint adhering to the glossy surface as varnish seals off the wood underneath.”

He adds, “The key to painting on varnish is to prepare the surface for adhesion, making sure the paint can stick and hold to it."

Try these tools for painting varnished wood

Tools to paint over varnished wood

To paint varnished wood, you will need a few basic painting supplies:

• Medium grit sandpaper
• Microfibre cloth - like these Scrub Daddy Microfibre Cleaning Cloths from Amazon
• Paint brushes - like these Harris Trade brushes from Amazon
• Paint roller
• Paint tray
• Dust sheets
• Protective eye wear and dust mask

Jonathan Bromell, Director of Wood Flooring Kent, details what sandpaper is best for the job: “When sanding varnished wood, use a medium grit sandpaper between 120 to 150 grit and a sanding block.” He adds, “A medium grit will smooth the surface whilst removing imperfections, without damaging the surface of the wood.”

Paints to paint over varnished wood

With careful preparation, the key paint component is a primer (like this Zinsser BIN Primer from Amazon). Kerr says, “A bonding primer is essential when painting onto a glossy surface such as varnish, ideally one that isn't oil-based, as this can take longer to dry on.”

Bromell agrees, “A water-based acrylic paint is recommended for painting varnished wood as it is easier to apply and offers great durability.

However, if you are using an oil-based top coat like this Dulux Trade High Gloss from B&Q, Bromell says, “This must be used alongside an oil-based primer.”

Kerr suggests an alternative that can work well: “For stronger adhesion, take a look at chalk paints. Chalk paint (like this Frenchic Furniture Paint from Amazon) has a matte finish and sticks really well, so it can be a good choice for varnished wood."

Painting varnished wood

1. Clean the surface

Before you start any painting, you need to check the surface. Remove any flaking varnish with a scraper, brush away any debris and clean. Bromell shares how, “Take a microfibre cloth and a mixture of warm soapy water and gently wipe the surface of the wood.” Leave the surface to dry before continuing.

2. Prep and sand

Next, it's time to sand the surface. Bromell says, “Using a medium grit sandpaper will remove the gloss on the varnished surface to allow for better adhesion.” Kerr adds, “A light sanding is essential as you don't want to strip the surface back too far.”

When finished sanding, brush off any dust. To finish, Bromell says, “Take a damp cloth and wipe the wood to remove any leftover dust.” Leave to dry, and you will have a surface ready to paint.

3. Prime and paint

Before applying a top coat, it's time to apply a primer. Kerr says, “Now you want to add a layer of primer to help strengthen the paint's grip on the wood.” He continues, “When dry, sand again with a slightly coarser paper. You can now apply the paint; a couple of thin layers normally do the trick.”

Between coats, use fine sandpaper, grade 240 grit is good, to smooth the surface. Wipe clean with a damp cloth and leave to dry before adding the next coat.

Bromell adds, “If using an oil-based paint, it must be used alongside an oil-based primer for the best finish and durability”.

Removing old varnish from wood

There are several options for removing varnish, all of which do a good job. Bromell says, “It’s best to use a heat gun or solvents to soften the varnish; this way it can be gently scraped off the surface of the wood using a scraper.” He adds, “This must be done with caution to avoid damaging the wood”.

Kerr suggests that a heat gun is best used on flat surfaces: “I'd advise sticking to flat surfaces when using a gun, and be careful not to scorch the wood.” When using a heat gun, remember to keep it moving and do not leave it in one spot for more than a few seconds. As soon as the varnish starts to bubble, it will be soft enough to remove. Do this in stages before moving on to the next area.

Sanding is also a viable option, but it typically needs more effort. Kerr shares how to use: “Use an orbital sander with a grit of around 80-120 for bulk removal, moving to a finer grit to smooth the surface out afterwards."

FAQs

Is it better to remove all varnish and start from scratch?

Removing varnish from wood is typically a better choice, explains Bromell, “Although with the correct preparation, varnished wood can effectively be painted, removing the varnish prior to painting can allow for better adhesion.” He adds, “Varnish provides a glossy film, so without adequate preparation, the paint may fail to fully adhere to the surface of the wood."

Kerr reinforces the benefits of varnish removal, "It may take a little more time, but having a bare/raw wood surface will allow for the best chances of paint adhesion. He adds, “This is definitely the case with already flaky varnished surfaces; getting rid of the loose leafy flakes will benefit the paint bond."

What happens if you don’t use a primer on varnished wood?

Not using a primer is not advised, as this can cause problems with the paint's finish, shares Bromell. “If you don’t use primer or prepare the surface of the varnished wood correctly before painting, then the paint won’t adhere properly to the surface of the wood.”

Kerr explains why, “If you don't use a primer, the paint will just sit directly atop the varnish, which not only makes the paintwork look uneven, but can lead to chipping/flaking within the space of a couple of weeks.” He adds, “A properly layered primer will extend the paint job's longevity, helping it last years as opposed to weeks."

If you have varnished wood that you want to transform with paint, then be sure to check out our guides for loft bedroom decorating ideas, utility room ideas, and modern bathroom ideas for insight and inspiration.

It’s a straightforward question: ‘Can you paint a log burner?’ and one you’re probably asking yourself if your log burner looks tired and needs a refresh. The quick answer is yes, but there are essential steps and materials you need to get it right.

Once finished, not only will you achieve a smart new look that matches your decor, but it will also help you get the maximum heat from your wood burner, keeping your home cosy on those cold, dark nights. So, don’t hesitate to take action and make it happen with this guide.

Can you repaint a log burner?

“Yes, you can paint a log burner,” shares Joanna Humphreys, Fire & Stove Specialist at Direct Stoves. “However, it’s important that you use the right type of paint. Due to the very high temperatures log burners can reach, normal household paints would likely bubble, discolour and flake off. Instead, always use heat-resistant paint when painting your log burner for the best results.”

Tools to paint a log burner

You will only need a few tools along with appropriate paint to get a good finish.

• Steel wool or a wire brush (like these TIVOLY Hand Brushes from Amazon)
• Dust sheets (like these Besto Laminated Cotton Dust Sheets from Amazon)
• Dry clean clothes
• Paint brush or paint sprayer
• Painter's tape (like this Frog Tape Green Masking Tape from Amazon)

Try these to help paint a log burner

How to paint a log burner

A dirty and/or rusty old stove can potentially make your room look messy. Keeping it clean and restoring it will prolong its lifespan. Here we run through the steps to get a log burner back to its best.

If you are dealing with rust Humphreys says, “While unsightly, the good news is that some light surface rust isn’t immediately detrimental to a stove’s functionality. But it should be handled promptly before it expands deeper into the metal.”

1. Let burner cool down

Before you start you need to let the log burner cool says Humphreys, “First, if used, allow the stove to cool fully before cleaning the rust. Attempting to remove rust from a hot surface can damage the finish.

2. Remove rust

If your log burner is rusty, Humphreys says, "Use a soft abrasive like steel wool, gently scrub the rusted areas to loosen and flake off corrosion - take care not to scratch the surrounding finish."

If you have heavy rust, you may need to start with a wire brush. If you have no rust, use a fine steel wool to prep the surface. To finish your prep, Humphreys says, "Carefully wipe all loose particles away with a dry cloth. Otherwise, any remaining materials may be incorporated into the new finish."

3. Paint log burner

With the surface prepped, add painters tape to any areas you don't want to get paint on, i.e the window. Now apply your high-temperature stove paint. Humphreys suggests, "Match the original flat black or metallic finish for an integrated look."

She adds, "Let the paint cure fully, following the manufacturer's drying times, before restarting the stove." Humphreys advises, "Don't rush the paint process; it can ruin results." Adding, "Additional coats may be needed for full coverage.”

The best paint for log burners

If you’re thinking of painting your log burner you will need to choose the right paint to ensure that the process is worthwhile. Jon Butterworth, Director at Arada Stoves says “When ordering your stove, the manufacturer will usually include a pot of paint which can be used to paint your stove should you need to touch it up at a later date from potential wear and tear.”

However, if you are looking for a complete repaint, you will need to invest in a paint that adheres to the surface. According to Butterworth, “Stove-specific paint is the only paint to use on your stove as it is made to withstand the high temperatures from the stove body.”

Butterworth explains why, “Regular paint is not made with the same properties and therefore should never be used to paint your stove.” He adds some design advice, “If you’re interested in a colourful stove for your living room, ensure you plan your colour palette to include the stove in the early stages of the design process."

FAQs

Are log burners always black?

When you think of log burners, it's almost inevitable that you picture the colour black. Humphreys explains why it's the colour of choice, “Log burners are often painted black because of practicality and tradition.”

But there is also a practical reason: “The dark finish helps with heat transfer through thermal radiation and convection, while the heat-resistant paint provides a durable coating that can withstand the high temperatures stoves reach.”

She adds, “Historically, black lead polish was also used to protect the cast iron stoves from rust and discolouration, keeping the stove looking its best for longer.”

But black isn’t the only colour for log burners, explains Humprehys, “A coloured log burner (check out this hot pink stove from Arada Stoves) is a great way to add interest and depth to your scheme without overpowering the whole space - allowing those who are a little less colour confident to use bold colours as an accent rather than the main feature.

How do you clean the outside of a log burner?

To keep a log burner looking its best, you’ll need to clean and maintain it. However, you’ll need to use the right tools and materials to ensure you don’t damage the exterior.

Viktor Velikov, Director of Elserve, offers some pointers: “When you're cleaning your log burner, make sure you avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive pads that can scratch or strip the finish. A specialist stove cleaner (like this Dirtbusters Stove Polish from Amazon) or a mild degreaser works best for removing soot and smoke stains.”

You will also need to apply correctly, continues Velikov, “Apply a small amount to the affected area, then buff with a microfibre cloth to restore the paint’s sheen.” He adds, “For everyday care, wipe the stove down with a lint-free cloth once it has cooled after use. This prevents soot from settling into the surface, so the colour and finish stay fresh for longer.”

Humphreys adds further advice, “Although white vinegar is regarded as a gentle cleaner for most household items, it’s worth noting that it’s unsuitable for your log burner. As a general rule of thumb, you want to avoid using liquid anywhere near the stove as this can lead to rust.”

She adds, “Instead, use a log burner glass cleaning pad to keep the glass panel looking as good as new and use a dry cloth to dust down the exterior.”

If you’re thinking of investing in a new log burner, then you need to check out our 25 log burner ideas, 13 double-sided log burner ideas and freestanding log burner ideas to help you choose the perfect log burner for your needs.

Rust is unsightly, damaging, and weakens the metal it affects, eventually destroying the surface. Knowing how to remove rust from metal is a useful skill that helps restore tools, furniture, and any other surfaces affected by rust.

Whether you're painting a garage door, cleaning garden tools, or removing heavy-duty rust, you only need a few items to make them rust-free. You can choose a specialist rust remover or power tool for fast removal, or use household items and elbow grease for surface rust.

Find out what will work best for your needs with some smart advice from the pros.

Why rust forms on metal

We all know that rust is the unsightly reddish-brown stain or mark that appears on metal when it is exposed to rain. Here, Leigh Start, managing director at The Metal Store, shares more on what it is: “Rust happens when iron meets oxygen and moisture, creating iron oxide – the reddish-brown substance you see peeling off old metal fences, tools or forgotten machinery. It weakens metal, tarnishes the appearance and makes your job more difficult in the long run.”

But rust doesn’t appear on all metals, adds Start, “Only metals with iron in them can actually rust, so materials like mild steel and carbon steel are most at risk.”

Try these tools to help clean rust off metal

How to clean rust off metal

When it comes to rust, Start says, “Prevention is always better than cure.” But once rust has formed, it needs to be dealt with, and there are a range of methods to get your metal back into shape.

Professional rust cleaners

There is a whole host of specialist rust removers on the market, with Start pointing out, “They are far more effective than household remedies.”

He adds, “Many of these contain acids such as phosphoric or oxalic acid, which react with iron oxide, either converting it into a more stable compound (iron phosphate) or dissolving it, so it can then be scrubbed away.”

Typically, you can choose from liquid rust removers, such as MultiWare Rust Remover (available on Amazon), where you leave the metal object immersed in the liquid. But these aren’t always a viable option for larger metal objects. A rust remover like Bilt Hamber Deox-Gel Rust Remover (available from Amazon) is a gel that you apply, leave and then remove the rust. A rust converter, like Hammerite Kurust (available from Amazon), converts the rust into a stable surface that can be painted over.

Whatever method you choose, Start says, “Always wear gloves and eye protection when working with acidic rust removers.

Paul McFadyen, metal expert and chairman at metals4U, runs through the cleaning process using WD-40. “Remove any excess rust on the surface with a stiff wire brush, then apply your chosen rust remover onto the affected surface.” He adds, “This could be a commercial chemical remover, like WD-40 (available from Amazon), that is specifically designed to remove rust effectively. Leave the product to settle on the surface for a few minutes before scrubbing away using a wire brush.”

Everyday alternatives

If you have light surface rust, you can try shop-bought alternatives that you might already have. Start says, “If you don’t have a rust remover on hand, white vinegar works well on light surface rust, thanks to its acetic acid content.” He adds, “Small items can be soaked overnight, while larger ones can be scrubbed with vinegar and rinsed clean. It’s slower and less effective than purpose-made rust removers but can work in a pinch.”

For a more manual approach, Start says, “Mechanical methods such as wire wool, wire brushes or sandpaper are also reliable for removing surface rust.”

Homemade solutions

A DIY option can be useful for smaller items with light rust, as McFayden shares, “A solution of lemon and salt can be particularly effective on smaller household items, like knives and cookware. Simply coat the rusted area in salt before squeezing lemon juice on top. Leave the mixture to sit before scrubbing the rust away. Finally, rinse and pat the item dry.”

Using power tools to clean rust off metal

There will be times when a power tool for cleaning rust off metal can be a sensible choice. Start says, “For light rust, hand tools are usually sufficient; for heavier corrosion, consider using power tools.”

There are a few tools you can use shares Start, “An angle grinder fitted with a flap disc or wire cup brush is ideal for large surfaces, while a drill with a wire brush wheel (like this SI FANG Wire Brush for Drill from Amazon) suits smaller objects.”

McFadyen adds, “A sanding tool (like this BLACK+DECKER Sander from Amazon) is useful for cleaning large, flat surfaces.” He shares how, “Start with a coarser grit, before working up to finer grits until you get a smooth finish.” He adds a note of caution, “You can also use wire brush attachments, but be careful as these can damage softer metals like copper and brass.”

Start finishes by saying, “Whichever tool you use, always wear safety gear (like these UKNOW Safety Goggles from Amazon), as rust particles can be sharp and hazardous.”

Treating newly cleaned metal

Once you’ve removed any rust from metal surfaces, you don’t want it coming back. The best way to prevent this from happening is to create a protective barrier. McFayden shares how, “Use paint or a sealant to stop oxygen and moisture interacting with the metal surface.”

Start adds, “A rust-inhibiting primer and topcoat of paint will block out moisture and oxygen, while oils, waxes or protective sprays are useful on tools and machinery.” If you want a longer-lasting solution, he suggests, “Powder coating or galvanising offers more durable protection.”

Once a protective layer has been applied, McFayden offers a couple of tips to help keep rust away: “Make sure to store metal items somewhere dry, always wiping them down if they get wet.” He adds, “Regularly check metal surfaces for signs of rusting, reapplying coatings if needed.”

FAQ

Does Coca-Cola or potatoes clean rust off metal?

You’ll often see claims across social media and the web that unusual options can clean rust off metal. Coca-Cola and potatoes are two methods that are often touted as rust removers, but do they really work? Start points out that both work but are not as effective as other solutions, “Coca-Cola contains phosphoric acid and can help dissolve light rust,“ But he adds, “It’s sticky and inefficient compared to proper products.”

Potatoes are another readily available item that is mentioned as an effective rust remover. Start shares, “Potatoes contain oxalic acid and, when rubbed on with salt or baking soda, can also shift surface rust - but neither method will deal with heavy corrosion.”

McFayden explains further: “Cut a potato in half and cover the exposed end in washing-up liquid. Rub this side of the potato onto the rusty surface, then let it sit for an hour. Afterwards, scrub to remove the loosened rust and rinse clean.”

Once you’ve cleaned off any rust, you can think about painting the metal. Check out our guides on How to paint a radiator, How to paint behind a radiator, and Best radiator paints to help get a smart new finish and keep rust at bay.

Blu Tack is a staple in the home when you need a quick, no-fuss way to hang items. There’s no need to start drilling holes or drive nails into a wall; simply break off a blob of Blu Tack and stick it to the wall. However, it's not perfect; it can leave unsightly marks when removed.

Fortunately, this guide offers plenty of tips and tricks to help you remove marks and achieve a clean, blemish-free surface. Alternatively, you may try painting a ceiling or wall to conceal the mark.

However, this approach won’t always be effective if the preparation is poor and you select the wrong paint. Once again, you’ll find the answers here to prevent that from happening.

How to remove Blu Tack off walls

If you’ve got Blu Tack left on your wall after taking down posters, pictures and anything else, the Blu Tack often remains on the wall. Here, Alice O’Regan, Category Manager at Bostik UK (the makers of Blu Tack), reveals a few recommended ways to get rid of Blu Tack.

1. Remove Blu Tack with Blu Tack
O’Regan says, “The quickest and most effective way to remove Blu Tack from a wall is by using another blob of Blu Tack. For Blu Tack that has been there for a long period of time, we’d recommend not pulling at it. Instead, grab a fresh piece of Blu Tack, shape it into a ball and carefully roll it on the surface.”

If this leaves remaining bits of Blu Tack on the surface, she recommends, “Gently rolling or dabbing at these with a fresh piece of Blu Tack.”

2. Use a cleaner or lighter fuel
“If Blu Tack has been used on surfaces that are old, delicate or porous, you may notice marks are left behind,” shares O’Regan. “To remove these, our experts would recommend testing out chewing gum remover, a citrus-based cleaner, sugar soap or lighter fuel on the area.” Start with whatever you have to hand, probably a citrus-based cleaner, or if a keen DIYer, sugar soap.

But before you start, O’Regan says, “We would recommend testing on an inconspicuous area first.” She adds how to use your chosen product: “Apply a small amount of your chosen cleaning product to a piece of kitchen paper or a clean cloth and dab, not rub, at the affected area.”

She continues, “Then, with a dry piece of cloth or kitchen paper, dab gently at the area – this dissolves the oil in the Blu Tack and lifts the stain.”

3. Warm it up
When Blu Tack hardens over time, it can become more difficult to remove without damaging wallpaper or paint.

"Warming Blu Tack slightly can help soften it, making it easier to lift away from the wall. You can do this by rubbing it gently with your fingers or using a warm, dry cloth. Avoid using direct heat, as this can damage paint or plaster," says Kelly Moore, Founder of Cleaning with Meaning.

4. Try a natural solution
"For any remaining sticky marks, a gentle solution such as warm water with a small amount of castile soap can work well," says Kelly Moore.

"Alternatively, white vinegar or lemon juice diluted in warm water can be dabbed lightly onto the area to help lift the residue, followed by wiping with a clean, damp cloth. Always patch test first to protect the finish of the wall."

Try these tools to help remove Blu Tack marks

Why does Blu Tack mark walls?

Blu Tack contains mineral oil to help keep the rubber sticky and pliable, but unfortunately, this can leach out over time and create a stain or mark on absorbent surfaces, such as plaster walls or wallpaper.

Alice O’Regan points out where Blu Tack is best used, “It’s important to remember that Blu Tack works best on non-porous surfaces like vinyl-coated wallpaper, painted surfaces, glass and metal.”

She adds, “It’s best to avoid using Blu Tack on porous brickwork and absorbent or recently decorated surfaces such as silk-screen printed or hand-stencilled wallpapers.” It’s worth noting that Blu Tack will work on these surfaces, but its composition means it may leave marks. So be aware.

How to paint over blue tack stains

If you’re looking to paint over grease stains left by Blu Tack, you need to get your preparation right and choose a good stain-blocking paint to finish.

1. Remove residue and stain: The first step is to completely remove the Blu Tack and residue from your wall by following the steps above. Try to get as much off as you can, but don't worry if it's still slightly stained.

2. Prep the surface: Ensure the cleaned area is dry, then lightly rub it with a medium grade sandpaper. Remove the dust with a vacuum cleaner, then wipe the wall with a clean, dry cloth.

3. Paint the stain: Once your surface has been prepped, you can apply your stain-blocking paint, followed by your regular paint once it’s dry.

Kelly Moore concludes, "Blu Tack marks are very common, particularly in family homes and rental properties, and the key is to remove them gently so you do not damage the paint underneath."

Check out how to paint a wall and the best paint rollers for more decorating insight.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

Plywood is a multi-talented material, and there’s much more to this adaptable wood than meets the eye. It can be used for a wide range of DIY projects ranging from home improvements through to renovations.

However, there is a wide range of types, grades, and finishes that determine how the plywood is used. It can be used to build furniture, cabinets, and shelves, which are on display, it can be painted or stained and even used to build structures where it will never be seen. But, these scenarios all have a bearing on how, or if, it needs sanding.

Here, you‘ll find the answers you need regarding when you should sand plywood, and what you need to do in order to achieve the finish you want.

Types and grades of plywood

Plywood comes in many guises including the size, type of wood and grades. Knowing the differences between the type and grade will help you understand how to sand the plywood.

“There are many kinds of plywood," says Kevin Keen, owner of Keens Buildings. "The variances depend on the type of wood, the quantity of plies, the glue used, and where it will be utilised.”

The most popular option for DIY projects is typically softwood, and as Kevin shares, “softwood plywood, is usually made of pine or fir and is often used in framing and building.”

Another common option is hardwood; this is often used for framing as well, but it can also be used for other projects. “People utilise hardwood plywood, like birch or oak, to make cabinets and furniture,” explains Kevin.

Beyond hardwood and softwood plywood, there are more specialist options too.

“Marine plywood is watertight and has no internal spaces, making it great for projects that will be exposed to a lot of moisture," says Kevin, "while exterior-grade plywood employs water-resistant adhesives for outdoor applications.

"Plywood that has been treated with pressure resists rot and bugs, while plywood treated with fire retardants is less likely to catch fire," he adds.

Try this softwood plywood for all types of projects

Plywood grades

As well as the different types, plywood also comes in different grades, ranging from A to D, with grade A being the highest, based on the quality of the materials, appearance, and strength.

Common grades are AB, B and BB. The finer grades will typically need less sanding.

AB grade is the highest quality, characterised by a consistent appearance with minimal or no pin knots. This is ideal for projects where the plywood surface is visible, such as cabinets or furniture.

B grade has the natural appearance of wood and can include knots up to 35mm in size. This is ideal for painting and staining. Finally, C-grade plywood is ideal for projects such as building stud walls where the surface doesn’t need to be seen, but still requires strength.

Best way to sand plywood

Combining an electric sander with the right sandpaper grade is the popular choice for sanding plywood, says Kevin Keen. “An electric sander is the best choice for most plywood surfaces since it works faster and produces an even finish.”

A random orbital sander is the ideal choice if you're wondering which type of sander. Why? “A random orbital sander avoids swirl marks and is easier to handle than a belt sander,” explains Kevin.

To help ensure your plywood surface stays as even as possible when sanding, there are a few tips you can use.

“Light pencil marks on the surface help track sanding progress and keep the work even,” suggests Kevin, and when the pencil marks disappear, move on to the next section of the surface. "Don't press too hard," he adds, "as plywood layers can thin unevenly if over-sanded.”

Plywood edges need more attention too, explains Kevin. “Hand sanding is better for edges and corners where more control is needed.” Make sure to use a sanding block like this SATC Hand Sanding Block from Amazon, with a fine 120-grit sandpaper.

If painting plywood after sanding, fill the edges with a quality wood filler and rub down with fine sandpaper first.

Try these tools for sanding plywood

Sandpaper grits to use

Which sandpaper grit you use will depend on the type of plywood and the state of the surface. "Hardwood plywood needs finer grits to eliminate scratches, whereas softwood and external grades can be sanded with medium grits,” says Kevin Keen.

If the plywood has rough spots or splinters (which are typically found on the edges), start with 80-120 grit sandpaper. To finish, “use 150 to 180 grit next to make the surface smooth so that paint or varnish may stick," he says.

If painting plywood, start by sanding the wood and adding a primer. When the primer is dry, use a fine 240-grit sandpaper to gently sand the surface. Apply this between coats to achieve a super-smooth painted surface.

FAQs

Can you buy plywood that is pre-sanded?

Yes, there are specialist types of plywood that can come pre-sanded. “You can buy cabinet-grade or sanding-grade plywood that is already sanded and ready to finish,” confirms Kevin, but these are rarely used in most DIY or home renovation projects.

The common options of softwood and hardwood plywood don’t come pre-sanded, so they will need to be sanded before it is painted, stained or sealed.

What is sanding sealer?

If you are working on a plywood project where the surface needs to be treated to get a extra finish, such as polish, lacquer or wax, a sanding sealer (like this Chestnut CSS500 Cellulose Sanding Sealer from Amazon) can be used to help ensure that these finishes are applied evenly and look good.

Sanding is a key part of the preparation for a host of DIY projects including painting wooden doors and painting floorboards. If you’re painting floorboards, you’ll need a specialist sander, so make sure you read our guide to the cost of sanding a wood floor.

Drilling into walls is a skill that all DIYers need in their arsenal. Thankfully, it’s a straightforward task, but one that requires precision. You don’t want to mount a shelf or hang a TV, only to see it unexpectedly fall.

To achieve a neat, clean hole and a secure fix, you'll need ensure you use the right gear and techniques. The best cordless drill is a good start, but, having all the gear and no idea is never a good place to start from.

Here we we outline the best tools, tips and tricks along with a step-by-step expert guide to drilling into walls so you can be safe in the knowledge you have everything you need to confidently complete the job.

How to assess the wall before drilling

Before you start any drilling, you need to know what type of wall you are dealing with as there isn't one rule fits all when it comes to drilling into walls.

“Before you drill into any wall, you need to identify what you're working with," says Tyler Mullen, manager at Pro-Tools. "Plasterboard is very different to brick or concrete, and each one needs a different approach.”

“I always start by tapping the wall lightly to get a sense of whether it’s hollow or solid, then confirm that with a detector,” says Tyler. If there is a hollow sound, this typically suggests that you are working with a timber stud wall covered in plasterboard.

However, it's not just the construction of the wall that you need to establish. There are certain areas of a wall you need to avoid when drilling or you could land yourself with more mess and disruption than you planned for.

Robert Quniton, Construction expert for Construction Megastore Building Materials explains.

“Certain areas can hide electrical wires, pipes, or key structural components. Be careful when working near plumbing fixtures such as sinks and toilets, as well as around spots where mains water or gas pipes might be located, as these can burst and cause major water leakages," he warns.

Besides water issues, you also need to be cautious about the location of electrical wiring. To avoid serious problems, Robert advises the following. “Avoid drilling directly above, below, or beside plug sockets and light switches. You should also steer clear of the top 150mm of a wall and the 150mm zone running along corners.”

Of course, simply tapping the wall won't ever establish where these items are located, and this is where a good detector comes in.

“You should never drill blind," says Tyler. "Use a decent digital detector (like this Bosch Truvo detector from Amazon) to check for pipes, cables, and studs, especially near sockets or light switches. It’s never worth the risk of drilling into walls without checking first.”

The tool kit you’ll need for drilling into a wall

Once you know what type of wall you are working with, you then need to choose the right tools.

“A standard hammer drill works for brick, but for drilling into concrete, you’ll want an SDS drill (like this Makita HR2630 SDS Plus Rotary Hammer Drill from Amazon,” says Tyler Mullen.

If you're drilling into plasterboard a standard drill will do the job, but you need choose the right bit for your drill. "You'll need a masonry bit for solid walls, wood or metal bits for others – and make sure they're sharp," adds Tyler Mullen.

When choosing a bit size, pick one with a diameter that closely matches that of your screw or Rawl plug.

Also, don’t forget your safety gear. It's not essential to wear safety goggles for basic drilling, but it is advised. If you are undertaking heavier-duty drilling, it’s recommended that you wear safety glasses like these Mustbau Clear Safety Glasses from Amazon.

Try the tools for drilling into walls

Steps for drilling into a wall

After you have assessed what type of wall and checked for any pipes or cables you can start drilling safely, following these expert approved steps.

1. Mark drill point

Before you start drilling, measure and mark your drill hole. “Use a pencil to mark where you want to drill and for extra precision, press the drill bit lightly into the wall first to make a small guide mark – this helps stop the bit from slipping,” says Robert Quinton.

If marking more than one drill point, double check any measurements and make sure they are level if needed.

2. Drill slow and steady

Before you start drilling, place the point of the drill on its mark, keep it level and start up the drill. Tyler Mullen says, “go slow and steady, especially at first. Let the drill do the work – don’t force it.”

“And don’t forget to stop now and then to clear the dust, especially on deeper holes," he adds. "It sounds simple, but rushing it is where most people go wrong.”

Not sure how deep you need to drill? “To control the depth, measure your drill bit against the Rawl plug and mark it with masking tape,” suggests Robert Quinton.

3. Clean and test

When you have finished drilling, Robert Quinton says to, “vacuum out any remaining dust to ensure a clean fit for the plug and screw and push the rawl plug into the hole. If it is a tight fit, tap it in gently with a hammer or mallet. Now you’re ready to insert and drive in your screw.”

If the fit is slightly loose you can either drill another hole, or add a match to the hole to create a tight, secure fit.

FAQ

What size Rawl plug do I need?

Choosing the right size Rawl plug is essential to ensure that whatever you're fixing to the wall will be secure, and the success you've had drilling into the wall isn't wasted.

It’s worth noting from the off, that Rawl plugs are not suitable for drilling into plasterboard, instead, you need the best plasterboard fixings instead.

To make sure you are choosing the appropriate size Rawl plug, think about the weight of the object you want to support. For loads of up to 20kg, you typically need a 3-5.5mm diameter Rawl plug. For heavier loads, a 6-8mm Rawl plug is usually adequate. For loads over 50kg, try a 10mm Rawl plug.

The length is also important; ideally, pick the longest plug for the chosen diameter. The longer the plug, the more secure it will be. Ensure that you choose a screw that is slightly shorter than the length of the Rawl plug for a secure fit.

If, however, you do damage a Rawl plug trying to insert it into a wall, follow the advice in how to get Rawl plugs out of a wall to cause as little damage as possible.

Put your newly found drilling into walls knowledge to good use by tackling some easy shelving projects to get you started. Check out our bathroom shelf ideas, radiator shelf ideas and utility room shelving ideas to help spruce up your home using your new found DIY skills.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

Drilling into concrete isn’t as hard as you might think, even if you’re a first-time DIYer. You just need to ensure that you have the right tools and the techniques suggested in this guide. Follow these, and you’ll be ready to go.

The type of drill and drill bit are the real game changers here. Choose the right combination, and drilling into concrete will be much easier. And it will give you clean, precise holes. Using the wrong tools and techniques will not only waste time and effort but also damage your tools more quickly. Here you’ll find what you need to know to make sure that doesn’t happen.

Safety gear for drilling into concrete

Drilling into concrete can be dangerous and messy, so before you start, ensure you have appropriate protection; it's not recommended to drill without essential safety gear. Chris Lawson, Owner of Online Drawing UK, recommends, “Eye protection (like these Mustbau Clear Safety Glasses from Amazon) is essential because the dust from concrete is gritty and abrasive. A pair of gloves stops your hands from slipping and protects them from sharp edges.”

He adds, “Most importantly, wear a dust mask – concrete dust isn’t something you want to breathe in, and it’s surprising how quickly it fills a room, especially when drilling overhead. If you’re working indoors, open a window and move anything you don’t want covered in grey powder.”

Finally, drilling can be noisy, so investing in ear defenders or plugs like these 3M E-A-R Classic Earplugs from Amazon is a smart choice.

Choosing drill and drill bits

The drill and drill bits you need to drill into concrete depend on the type of concrete you are working with. You can use a standard combi drill to drill into concrete walls. However, Mike Bekin, Founder of Ecochoice, says that the equipment choice depends on the strength of the concrete, “On newer extensions where mixes are harder, an SDS-plus drill is the right tool. The percussion mechanism is designed to fracture stone rather than simply spin.”

He adds, “Match it with proper masonry bits rated for SDS drills rather than adapting standard ones.”

Lawson shares, “You’ll need masonry drill bits, ideally with a carbide tip, and for most household fixings, sizes of 5mm, 6mm and 8mm cover most needs.” To finish, he recommends a simple, but smart tip, “Keep a couple of spares because they do dull.” Try these BULLITT Masonry Drill Bits from Amazon.

Once you have drilled your holes, you will need secure screws or fixings. A combi drill should do the job; however, if you need more power or are installing many concrete screws, an impact driver such as the Ryobi R18ID2 ONE+ Cordless Impact Driver Starter Kit from Amazon is a better option. They offer more torque, making the process quicker and easier.

Try these tools for drilling into concrete

Checks to make before drilling into concrete

Before you start drilling, determine the type of concrete you are drilling into, the required depth, and whether you are drilling into any structural elements, such as a lintel. Lawson suggests, “Walls can hide water pipes and electrical runs, and you don’t want to find either the hard way. A basic cable and pipe detector is inexpensive and will give you confidence.”

Bekin adds, “Reinforcement isn’t a deal breaker if you hit it once, but repeatedly drilling into steel eats bits and can undermine the bar’s protective cover.” If in doubt, call in a professional to assess the situation.

Steps for drilling into concrete

Once you’ve assessed the state of the concrete and have your drill and bits ready, you can start drilling.

1. Mark drill hole

The first step is to mark where you want to drill. Lawson says, “To get the hole clean and straight, start by marking the position with a pencil.” Once you’ve marked the spot where you plan to drill, use a centre punch and hammer to make a small indent. This helps stop the drill bit wandering.

2. Ensure correct depth

Drilling to the right depth is important, especially if using Rawl plugs. Too deep, and the fixing may not be as secure. Lawson shares how, “Set your depth using the stop on the drill or a bit of tape wrapped around the drill bit.”

3. Drill a pilot hole

To facilitate drilling, create a pilot hole with a small drill bit. This should also prevent your drill bits from getting stuck or overheating.

4. Start drilling

With a pilot hole in place, it's time to begin drilling. Lawson says, “Start slowly to create a shallow guide, then increase power and let the drill do the work. Back the bit out occasionally to clear dust, then finish at full depth.”

Bekin shares a quick tip, “Vacuuming dust mid-way keeps the hole accurate and allows the anchor to grip properly once inserted.” If you have someone who can help, ask them to hold a builder's vacuum under the hole you’re drilling to catch the dust. If not, throw a dust sheet down beforehand.

FAQ

How do you stop concrete cracking when drilling?

When drilling into concrete, you want to ensure a clean hole and avoid cracking. To ensure this happens, there are a few simple rules to follow. Use a sharp bit and keep at least 50mm from any edges.

Keep the drill at a 90-degree angle to the surface and don’t apply excessive pressure. Go slow and steady. The more friction you generate, the more likely the concrete is to crack. If drilling a large hole, start with a small bit and gradually increase the bit size until you reach the desired size. This reduces friction, thereby reducing the likelihood of cracks.

The best cordless drills are typically a good choice for drilling into masonry and standard concrete. This makes them for putting up fittings. To put your new drill to good use, check out our bathroom shelf ideas and how to build pantry shelves so you can start your next project once you've mastered drilling into concrete.

When your sink gets blocked, it's time to get out your plunger. But what happens if you can’t find your plunger? You need to look for alternative options to unblock a sink without a plunger.

You could do the washing up in one of the best integrated dishwashers if you have one, but this isn’t a long-term solution. A more sensible option is to see what else you have at home that you could try.

It could be something as simple as pouring hot water. If not, try the expert tips and techniques you’ll find in this guide. We guarantee one will work.

Ways to unblock a sink without a plunger

A plunger is a quick and usually effective way to unblock a sink – and unblock a toilet. But if you don’t happen to have a plunger handy in the home, or it's simply not doing what it should do, there are alternative options that can take a plunger's place. Some are more effective than others.

1. Introduce a drain cleaner

Stubborn blockages are not always the friend of a plunger and often require extra help to remove them. Georgina Shepherd, Home Services Expert at Housekeep, suggests using a drain cleaner: “Chemical drain cleaners work by triggering reactions that release heat and break down clogs.” She adds, “This heat helps melt grease and soften hair, making it easier to dissolve and flush away the blockage.”

Shepherd offers a couple of recommendations: “I’d go with the HG drain unblocker (available from B&Q) - it’s effective, budget-friendly, and you don’t need to dilute it.” She adds, “Another good one is Mr Muscle drain gel (available from Amazon). It's a gel, so it clings to the blockage more effectively.”

She adds a word of warning, “Whatever type of chemical product you're using, always read the label carefully and use with caution.” She adds, “If you're unsure, it’s often better to go with a more natural cleaner or just call out a plumber.”

2. Try a drain snake

If you don’t want to use a chemical cleaner, you can try a drain snake. Shepherd explains what they are. “A drain snake is essentially a long, flexible metal coil that you feed down into the drain. You can twist it to break up the clog or hook onto whatever’s causing the blockage and pull it out.”

She adds why they are a good choice, “They’re great for a few reasons: they’re affordable, reusable, and pretty easy to use. If you’re looking to buy one, just make sure the thickness is suitable for your plughole size.”

Try these tools to help unblock a kitchen sink

3. Create a hand plunger

If you have nothing to hand, you can use your hands as Shepherd shares, “If you’re in a pinch, you can try using your hand to form a seal over the plughole and push to create suction, sort of like a makeshift plunger.” But it's not an ideal choice, continues Shepherd, “It’s a bit messy, but it can sometimes do the trick for lighter clogs.”

4. Remove drain trap

Removing a drain trap is more involved than using the other methods, but it is a good idea to give it an annual clean to help stop blockages. Shepherd points out, “The U-shaped pipe under the sink collects grease and debris, which can build up over time and cause a clog.” To give it a clean, she says, “Place a bucket underneath, unscrew the trap, and scrape out any residue – just remember to wear gloves, as it can get quite messy!” Find out more in our fitting a kitchen waste guide

It's also a good idea to clear the area under the sink and have a few old towels nearby in case there is any spillage.

5. Wash away

If you've got nothing suitable in the home to help unclog a sink, Shephed suggests using washing power, "Washing powder can sometimes help with greasy blockages. It’s a gentler approach, but combined with hot water, it can loosen things up quite well."

FAQs

Does boiling water unblock a sink?

Boiling water is a quick and cost-effective option, as Jess Thomas, MD of Drainage Central, points out, "Boiling water is a quick solution to unblock a sink, as the hot temperature of the water can help to melt or dissolve substances that may be causing the blockage, such as soap or grease."

He adds, "However, it is only likely to work on soft blockages and may not be suitable for all types of plumbing. If your home has PVC pipes, you should avoid using hot water to clear blockages, as the high temperature can soften the material and cause damage."

Can I make my own homemade drain unblocker?

There are several options for creating a DIY unblocker. Thomas reveals three of his recommended choices:

1. Wire coat hanger

Straighten out a wire coat hanger and shape one end to form a hook. Carefully insert the hanger into the drain, hook side down and try to pull out whatever may be causing the blockage.

However, when doing this you will need to be cautious to avoid pushing the blockage further down the drain.

2. Salt, borax and vinegar

These ingredients can be used to create a mixture that can be used on tougher blockages. Combine a quarter of a cup of salt, a quarter of a cup of borax and half a cup of vinegar, and then pour this down the drain followed by boiling water.

Allow the mixture to sit overnight if possible, and then flush the drain with more hot water.

3. Dish soap and hot water

If you think that the blockage in the drain is grease related, pour a large amount of dish soap (like this Mrs. Meyer's Clean Day Liquid Dish Soap from Amazon) into the drain and follow this with boiling water. The dish soap will cut through grease in the drain, while the hot water will flush away any debris.

Should you use bleach to unblock a sink?

Using bleach to unblock a sink is not recommended. Julian Gaze, Managing Director at Janitorial Direct, points out, “While bleach is good for killing bacteria and deodorising, it doesn’t break down the materials that typically cause blockages like grease, food, or hair.”

He adds a word of caution, “It can also be dangerous if it mixes with other cleaning chemicals, especially ammonia-based products, as this can release harmful fumes. Stick to products made specifically for unblocking drains or use a mechanical method like a plunger or drain snake.”

Keeping your kitchen sink and pipework clean is key to stopping blockages. If you’re having issues, you can think about replacing a kitchen sink and pipework. Check out our best kitchen sink and kitchen sink ideas guides to help you choose the right one.

Thermostatic valve problems can be a real inconvenience, especially during the winter months when you need your heating system to be working at its optimum. They are a key part of a heating system, and when they're not working correctly, you won’t be getting the warmth that you need.

Almost all types of radiators have a TRV to automatically control the flow of hot water to individual radiators. So when they go wrong, the flow of water can be erratic. You don’t want a boiling hot rad in the middle of summer or a freezing cold one in winter. Here, the experts tell you what signs to look out for and how to deal with them.

What is a TRV?

A Thermostatic Radiator Valve (TRV) is a self-regulating valve fitted to a radiator. Gordon Chalk and Alan Houghton, MDs at Next Level Underfloor Heating and Screed Solutions, explain how a TRV works. “A TRV controls the amount of hot water flowing through it, and therefore the heat output, based on the room temperature.”

They go into more detail, "a TRV works by sensing the air temperature around it. If the room temperature is below the setting on the valve, the valve opens, allowing hot water to flow into the radiator. As the room temperature rises, the valve gradually closes, reducing the flow of hot water. When the room reaches the desired temperature, the valve closes completely, shutting off the flow of hot water.”

Anatomy of a thermostatic valve

To help understand the problems that can occur with a TRV, Chalk and Houghton explain the different parts that make up a Thermostatic Radiator Valve. A typical TRV consists of the following:

• Valve body The main housing of the valve connects to the radiator and the heating system pipes.
• Sensor head Contains a temperature-sensitive element (typically a wax capsule or gas-filled bellows) that expands or contracts in response to temperature changes.
• Adjustable head/dial Allows the user to set the desired room temperature.
• Valve pin Connects the sensor head to the valve body and controls the flow of hot water.
• Lockshield valve A manual valve on the opposite side of the radiator is used to balance the system. While technically not part of the TRV, it works in tandem.

Try these tools to fit and fix a TRV

Common TRV problems

There are several issues that typically affect a TRV. Here, Chalk and Houghton point out the common ones.

1. Valve head stuck This is the most common issue. The valve pin can become stuck in either the open or closed position, preventing the TRV from regulating the temperature properly.
2. TRV not heating up Sometimes, there can be a buildup in the valve, which in turn prevents water from flowing through the valve.
3. TRV set too low It may sound silly, but often a reason that a TRV isn't working is that it's set to a low number.
4. Air lock Air trapped in the radiator can prevent it from heating up properly, even if the TRV is functioning correctly.
5. Incorrect setting Homeowners may not be using the TRV correctly or have it set to the wrong temperature.
6. TRV set to the same temperature Sometimes people do not understand that having the TRV set to the same level as the temperature dial renders the TRV useless.

Tell-tale signs a TRV is not working correctly

A TRV may not be working properly, but if you don’t know the signs to look out for, you can end up with expensive and unnecessary repairs. Here, Chalk and Houghton outline some common signs to help you identify potential issues.

1. Radiator always on The radiator is constantly hot, even when the room temperature is well above the TRV setting.
2. Radiator always off The radiator never heats up, even when the room is cold and the TRV is set to a high setting.
3. Radiator only partially heating The radiator is only warm at the top or bottom, indicating a circulation problem or airlock.
4. Room temperature not matching TRV setting The room temperature is consistently different from the temperature set on the TRV.
5. Stuck valve pin You can manually push in the pin to check and see if it's stuck.
6. Temperature fluctuations There is no consistency in the temperature of a radiator. You need to check the issues above.

How to fix a thermostatic valve

When a problem has been identified, it needs to be fixed. This is typically a simple solution that you can do yourself. If it can’t be fixed, it will need to be replaced. Here, Chalk and Houghton reveal quick ways to sort the problem.

• Freeing a stuck valve pin Remove the TRV head and gently tap the valve pin with a hammer. Use pliers to gently pull and push the pin to loosen it. A squirt of WD-40 can help.
• Bleeding the radiator Use a radiator key to release any trapped air from the radiator.
• Balancing the system Adjust the lockshield valve on each radiator to ensure that hot water is distributed evenly throughout the system.
• Checking the TRV setting Ensure the TRV is set to the desired temperature and that it is not obstructed by furniture or curtains.
• Replacing the TRV head If the TRV head is faulty, it may need to be replaced.

FAQs

Can I replace a TRV myself?

Replacing a TRV is a job that a competent DIYer can tackle without too much hassle. But there are a few essential tools needed and a few simple rules to follow. Chalk and Houghton point out the tools you’ll need: “You will need a radiator key, like this Radiator Bleed Key Solid Brass Clock Key from Amazon, an adjustable wrench, a pipe freezing kit, like this Arctic Hayes Aero Pipe Freezing Kit from Toolstation, (if you’re not draining the system), a new TRV, PTFE tape and a bucket and cloth to catch any water

Chalk and Houghton reveal a trick to change a TRV without draining the entire heating system. “You can use a technique called 'freezing the pipes', where you temporarily freeze the water in the pipes near the TRV to create an ice plug, preventing water from flowing out when you remove the old TRV. This should only be attempted by experienced DIYers!” But be warned, it requires some skill and quick work. Check out our How to fit a thermostatic radiator valve guide for more insight.

How much does it cost to replace a TRV?

A TRV is an inexpensive item, as Chalk and Houghton reveal, “Typically they are £10 – £40 each. Basic models typically start at under £10, with mid-range options (standard finishes) priced between £15 and £35.”

If you’re not confident in changing a TRV yourself, consider hiring a professional. Labour costs are around £50 – £70 per hour for standard jobs. However, emergency, weekend, or big-city-based work can push rates to £70 – £100 per hour.

If replacing a TRV, it's a good opportunity to spruce up the radiator and surrounding areas. Start by painting the wall, following our how to paint behind a radiator and how to paint a radiator guides, to give the area a fresh new look. If you don't want to paint a radiator, check out our radiator cover ideas for inspiration.

Choosing the right radiator height from the floor may seem like a straightforward decision. But there are some smart and subtle decisions you need to make to ensure you are getting the most out of a radiator.

Placing a radiator at the incorrect height can result in a less efficient heating system with poor heat distribution. Which ultimately will lead to higher bills. So you need to get it right, whatever type of radiator you are looking to install.

Here, the experts reveal the optimal size gap required for maximum efficiency and accessibility, along with alternative options should the standard size be unrealistic.

The ideal gap between radiator and floor

The gap between the floor and the bottom of a radiator needs to be a specific height to ensure good circulation. When installing a radiator, the height can vary (more of this later), Chalk and Houghton, MDs at Next Level Underfloor Heating and Screed Solutions, point out the popular option, “The most common gap is around 150mm (six inches). This is the generally accepted 'rule of thumb'.”

The gap typically applies to all radiators, as Chalk and Houghton explain, “While the ideal height can vary slightly based on radiator size and type (e.g., convector radiators might benefit from slightly more space), 150mm is a good starting point for most standard radiators.”

Try these skirting boards and radiators

Reasons for leaving a gap

There is more than one reason that affects the decision on the size of a gap. Here, Chalk and Houghton run through the reasons with explanations.

• Heat distribution The gap allows for better air circulation. Radiators heat the air around them, and this warm air rises. The gap allows cooler air to be drawn in from the floor, creating a convection current that distributes heat more evenly throughout the room. Without this gap, the heat tends to pool near the ceiling, leaving the lower part of the room cooler.
• Cleaning The gap makes it easier to clean underneath the radiator.
• Aesthetics A standard gap creates a more visually appealing and balanced look.
• Plumbing access Provides space for pipework and valve connections.

Where to position skirting boards with radiators

Radiators are typically placed next to skirting boards, and ideally, they should be positioned above the skirting board to work efficiently. Here, Chalk and Houghton go into more detail about radiator placement: “Generally, the entire radiator needs to be above the skirting board.”

He adds, “Aim for at least 25mm (1 inch) clearance from the top of the skirting board to the lowest point of the radiator. This is important for proper air circulation.”

The same principle applies, whatever the skirting board size. Chalk and Houghton suggest, “A taller skirting board will require a higher radiator placement to maintain adequate airflow.”

However, it might not be that simple. Chalk and Houghton continue, “If you have tall skirting boards, you may need to consider a shorter radiator to avoid placing it too high on the wall.”

If placing a radiator above the skirting board is not a practical solution, it may be more feasible and cost-effective to remove the existing skirting board and replace it with new skirting boards, such as this Polymer Ogee Skirting from Toolstation. Measure the gap, take away 25 mm, and this will give you the ideal height for your new skirting board.

Minimum radiator height from floor

From a practical standpoint, a radiator needs to be above the ground to work properly. 150 mm is the common gap, but a radiator can go lower, say Chalk and Houghton, “Ideally, you don't want the gap to be less than the skirting board's height at the very minimum." They add, “A functional minimum might be around 50mm (2 inches), but anything lower than that will significantly impact heat distribution and cleaning access.”

But how low a radiator can go is dependent on a number of factors, which Chalk and Houghton list below:

• Skirting board height
• Radiator design (convector fins, etc.)
• Room size and insulation (Poorly insulated rooms might benefit from slightly lower radiator placement to focus heat near the floor)

FAQs

Should a radiator go under a window?

The placement of a radiator isn’t just about its height from the floor; it's also about its position. A common query is whether it should be placed under a window. Here Chalk and Houghton give the reasons why it's a good choice.

• Counteracts cold drafts Windows are often the coldest surfaces in a room, and placing a radiator beneath them helps to counteract cold drafts.
• Air circulation The rising heat from the radiator helps to circulate warm air throughout the room.
• Space saving Windows are often unused wall space, making them an ideal location for radiators.

But when placing a radiator under a window, you need to think about the gap above and below. Chalk and Houghton share the ideal gaps: “You want at least 100mm (4 inches) between the top of the radiator and a window sill to allow for adequate heat circulation.” They add, “The gap at the bottom should be the same as normal (around 150mm/6 inches).”

Do single and double radiators have the same gap from the floor?

Double-panel radiators pump out more heat than single-panel radiators, but their placement is much the same. Chalk and Houghton go into more detail, “Single and double radiators should have the same gap from the floor. The primary consideration is still proper air circulation.”

But, a double panel radiator can be placed higher, continues Chalk and Houghton, “A double radiator may benefit from being placed slightly higher (perhaps an extra 25mm/1 inch) to further enhance convection, especially in a larger room.”

Radiators and skirting boards need to work together to get the best out of your home decor. Check out our skirting board ideas for inspiration and how to scribe skirting boards and caulking skirting boards for the more practical job of installation.

Copper vs plastic pipes is a common conundrum when looking to fit new pipework in your home. Which should you use for everyday plumbing projects? Which should you use for central heating? Can you use both?

If you’re installing a radiator to expand your central heating system, adding a new boiler, or introducing underfloor heating, you must select the appropriate pipe to optimise their performance.

Here, the experts discuss the advantages and disadvantages of copper and plastic pipes, the suitable applications for each, the various types of plastic pipe available, and how to effectively combine copper and plastic piping.

Pros of copper pipes

Here Gordon Chalk and Alan Houghton, MDs at Next Level Underfloor Heating and Screed Solutions explain the pros and cons of copper and plastic pipes.

• + Longevity –durable and can last for decades with proper installation.
• + Heat transfer – Excellent conductor of heat (can be beneficial in certain heating system designs).
• + Proven track record – Long history of reliable use in plumbing and heating systems.
• + Resistant to UV degradation – Copper pipes are not affected by sunlight.

Cons of copper pipes

• Cost – Generally, more expensive than plastic, with fluctuating copper prices.
• Ease of installation – Soldering requires skill and experience (not DIY-friendly; poor soldering can lead to leaks).
• Rigidity – Rigid and requires more fittings to navigate corners.
• Theft – Often targeted by thieves due to scrap value.
• Corrosion – While generally resistant, certain water conditions (e.g. very acidic water) can cause corrosion.

Try these to replace copper and plastic pipe

Pros of plastic pipes

• + The price – Most of the time, plastic is cheaper than copper.
• + Easy to install – Using push-fit or compression joints, it's easier to install than copper, making it more DIY-friendly.
• + More flexible – Plastic pipes are more bendable than copper, which makes it easier to run them through small areas.
• + Durability -– Very strong against rust, helping it fight corrosion.
• + Slower heat flow – Can help underground heating systems by retaining heat.

Cons of plastic pipes

• - Life span – Not as well proven for long-term stability as copper.
• - Temperature limitations – Not as resistant to high temperatures as copper. Crucial to use pipes that are rated for the highest temperature they will be used at.
• - Oxygen absorption – Some types (non-oxygen barrier pex) let oxygen through, which causes system parts to rust. In closed heating systems, oxygen shield pex has to be used.
• - Reliability of fitting – If plastic pipes are not put in properly, push-fit fittings can leak more than soldered copper.
• - Damage from UV – Long-term exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light can break it down.

What pipe is used in central heating?

Plastic pipes are prevalent in UK central heating systems, with a combination of different types and sizes being used. Here, Chalk and Houghton start by explaining the commonly used sizes and the reasons why: “The size of the pipe is determined by the heat load and the purpose of the pipe.” They add, “15mm, 22mm, and 28mm are all common sizes for central heating systems. 15mm or 16mm is usually used for underfloor heating systems.”

There are three common types of plastic pipe that are used in central heating, each with its own attributes, as Chalk and Houghton list below:

• PEX (Cross-Linked Polyethylene)
  A sturdy and flexible plastic pipe that is commonly used for water systems and underfloor heating. To stop corrosion, closed heating systems must have oxygen shield PEX.
• PEX-AL-PEX (Multi-Layer Composite Pipe)
  A pipe that is made up of layers of PEX and aluminium. The aluminium layer makes it stronger and stops air from getting through.
• PB (Polybutylene)
  Fitting problems have made this less common, but it can still be found in some older systems.

Can you mix plastic and copper piping?

The simple answer is yes, you can, and it's not unusual in central heating systems as Chalk and Houghton point out, “It is common to use both copper and plastic pipes in central heating systems, especially when adding to or fixing systems that are already in place.”

But they add a word of warning, “It is important to use the right fittings, though, to make sure that the link between the two materials is safe and doesn't leak.” Plastic push-fit fittings are designed to work with plastic piping, but can be used to connect plastic pipe to copper pipe.

Should copper pipes be replaced with plastic?

If you currently have copper pipes for central heating, there may be reasons to switch to plastic pipes, but it will depend on the current state of your copper pipework. If it's old and leaking, and needs replacing, new plastic pipe is a good choice.

If the copper pipe needs repairing, Chalk and Houghton suggest, “Compare the cost of repair with the money you could save by using less energy and not having to fix things as often.” They add, “It is usually not worth the money to replace copper pipes that are still in good shape just to switch to plastic ones.”

Beyond replacement and repairs, plastic pipes are a good choice for other projects such as renovations, say Chalk and Houghton, “Plastic pipes may be easier to work with in new systems and layouts, so if you're planning a big renovation, now might be a good time to replace your copper pipes.”

They are also ideal for underfloor heating, continue Chalk and Houghton, “Plastic pipes, especially oxygen barrier PEX, are usually the best choice for putting underfloor heating.”

FAQ

Are copper pipes still used for plumbing/central heating?

Copper pipes are still used frequently for general plumbing purposes around the home, but less so for central heating systems. Chalk and Houghton explain where copper pipes are typically used in the home: “Mains water pipes are common, as they last a long time and don’t rust.”

He adds, “In cases where appearance is important, copper can be lacquered and polished to resemble a decorative object.”

On a more practical level, copper pipes are used to connect boilers and radiators, continues Chalk and Houghton, “In systems that mostly use plastic pipes, short runs of copper pipe are sometimes used to connect stoves and radiators.”

Your central heating system will eventually need replacing, so make sure you know how much to budget for when the day comes by checking out our how much does it cost to install central heating guide. You’ll need to consider the type of radiator you want to install and factor in power flushing costs to keep your heating system running efficiently.