Creating a crisp contemporary home that also manages to feel homely, warm and welcoming requires a really careful approach. All too often, in a bid to ensure spaces feel fresh and modern, any sense of personality and cosiness seems to get lost.

When it comes to designing a bathroom, a clean, unfussy aesthetic is understandably one that many people aim for – yet as a room which needs to feel like a soothing sanctuary, it is important to seek ways to bring in design elements that balance out the sleek, minimalist, functional details.

My own bathroom is definitely lacking in warm and toasty vibes and, with a remodel on the cards, I am keen to discover the best ways to ensure that the new space looks and feels both up-to-date, as well as inviting. I reached out to a range of bathroom design experts for their advice.

1. Assess the space as a whole before making decor decisions

While it is tempting to dive headfirst into all those lovely bathroom design ideas you've been gathering together, it is really important to start the process of creating a contemporary, yet cosy, bathroom by assessing what you are working with first.

Keeley Sutcliffe, design manager at BC Designs, has some suggestions of how to kick off the process. "Sit in the bath for a moment and look around. We tend to judge a bathroom from the doorway, rather than from the place where we’re hoping to relax. From the bath, you might notice a spotlight shining straight at you or realise that your towel is frustratingly out of reach. Next, think about what would help you settle in comfortably. Where there’s room, a small table gives you somewhere for a book or a cup of tea, rather than balancing everything on the edge of the bath. Just leave enough space to get in and out easily. Those are the details I’d tackle before adding in more decoration.

"Don’t be too quick to blame the white bath, either," adds Keeley. "It may simply be surrounded by too much more of the same. Against a warmer painted wall, with a little timber nearby, that same bath can look much more inviting. You can keep the clean lines you liked in the first place without having everything around them feel quite so stark."

2. Lighting is key to achieving the right ambience

The importance of getting your bathroom lighting right cannot be over-emphasised. In my own bathroom, an uninspiring grid of recessed downlighters is made only marginally better by the oversized Edison bulb that sits above the mirror – getting a little more creative in the illumination department would definitely help add character.

Matthew Kallum, founder of Kallums Bathrooms, explains just how impactful lighting can be on modern bathrooms. "A bathroom can have all the right materials and still feel cold if it is lit harshly. Rather than relying entirely on overhead downlights, layer the lighting with wall lights around the mirror and use a warmer colour temperature.

"Putting the lighting on dimmers is another simple change that allows the atmosphere of the room to shift from bright and functional in the morning, to softer and more relaxing in the evening," adds Matthew.

3. Texture is just as important as colour

While colour can undeniably add lots in the way of visual warmth to a bathroom, if you want to keep things looking fresh and modern, texture is, arguably even more important than the shades you choose – particularly if you are a lover of neutral bathroom ideas.

Richard Skeoch, company director at Hyperion Tiles, explains that your bathroom tile ideas can really help when it comes to adding interest. "Texture is just as important as colour, and tiles with a matt finish or subtle variation in the glaze are great for adding depth to your scheme. In the evening, when the lighting is softer, those gentle variations catch the light beautifully, helping to create a layered feel that makes the bathroom feel more inviting.

"Matt and lightly textured surfaces feel softer and more organic than highly polished finishes, creating a gentle, understated backdrop that's easy to live with," continues Richard. "Natural stone-effect porcelain tiles are particularly effective, offering all the beauty of natural materials while being durable and easy to maintain."

Matthew Kallum agrees that softer, matt textures work better than high gloss if it is visual warmth you are after. "We look to honed or matt finishes rather than highly polished surfaces, as they soften the way light behaves in the room. Fluted and ribbed surfaces are another favourite as they introduce subtle shadow and give the eye something more tactile to engage with. Microcement can work beautifully too, particularly when used on a single wall. It creates depth without introducing lots of grout lines or visual noise."

Finally, Richard has some words of wisdom on which bathroom colours tend to work well for a cosier modern bathroom. "For a bathroom that feels rich and comforting in the evening, I recommend moving away from bright, clinical finishes and instead opting for warmer, more natural colours. Soft taupe, earthy greens, warm greys and stone-inspired tones all help create a calmer atmosphere, particularly when paired with warm, softer lighting."

4. Bring in warmth through thoughtful details

The success of any house design ideas always lies in those smaller details – yet all too often they get overlooked or deemed insignificant.

"Pay attention to the details," picks up Matthew Kallum. "Brushed brass or aged bronze can bring more warmth than polished chrome, while textured towels, a timber stool or natural stone accessories introduce softer, tactile elements. They may be small details but they are often what you notice when you walk into a space."

Gareth Hull, design lead at Hendel & Hendel , goes on to explain the importance of hardware too. "There’s more to warming up a modern vanity than swapping chrome handles for brass. An angular brass pull can still have quite a hard-edged appearance, whereas a gently rounded handle might be just the contrast a flat-fronted cabinet needs. I’d look at the shape alongside the metal, rather than expecting the finish to do all the work. Texture needs the same judgement. On very simple bathroom furniture, a smoother curve or a little detail at the end of a pull can introduce character without making the whole piece feel decorative.

"Also, you don’t need to change the bathroom taps simply because you’re changing the cabinet handles," adds Gareth. "Try the new finish against the furniture, worktop and existing metalwork before assuming everything has to match."

Shop bathroom details

5. Combine warm colours with modern tiling techniques

There is no need to shun either walls tiles or warm colours for a bathroom to feel modern – it all comes down to making wise choices and, once again, looking at what you already have to work with.

Lesley Taylor, interior designer and founder at Baked Tiles, explains how assessing your existing tiles and picking a wall colour to bring out their cosier tones can sometimes be all that's needed. "Have a really good look at the tiles, because there may already be something in them you can work with. A grey stone-effect floor might have a little warm brown running through it, and picking that up in paint or textiles gives you a much better starting point than bringing in an unrelated shade.

"If you are changing some of the tiling, don’t assume gloss is the enemy of a cosy bathroom," adds Lesley. "I love a glaze with a little unevenness, where the light catches some parts more than others – it brings character without needing a busy pattern. Just give the grout as much thought as the tile. A close colour keeps the overall effect gentle, while a strong contrast outlines every tile and creates a much more graphic finish."

Richard Skeoch also has some advice on how to tile a wall in a modern bathroom without a clinical end result. "Consider how the tiles flow throughout the room. If possible, try to use the same tile across the floor and into the shower as this will create a more seamless finish, helping the space feel larger and more luxurious. The overall effect is a bathroom that feels less functional and more like a private retreat where you can unwind at the end of the day."

6. Introduce some rich timber finishes

Bringing some natural materials, such as stone or timber, into a bathroom will instantly lend a laid-back, inviting vibe.

If you feel a little wary about using wooden flooring in bathroom, Ian Tomlinson, MD of Chaunceys Timber Flooring, has some reassuring advice. "Wood can significantly enhance the cosiness of a bathroom, transforming it into a warm and inviting sanctuary. Wood flooring brings a timeless sense of tradition and a deep connection to nature. While it’s often assumed that wood isn’t suitable for areas with frequent water exposure, it can perform beautifully in bathrooms when the right types of wood flooring are selected, proper precautions are taken and the space is well-ventilated with good extraction to prevent moisture build-up.

"Blending wood and tile flooring is a thoughtful way to define distinct zones within a bathroom while embracing both functionality and style," continues Ian. "Wood introduces warmth and an organic, natural element, while tiles offer practicality in wet areas. Together, they embody the wabi-sabi philosophy of creating a harmonious, welcoming space that feels grounded and serene."

7. Don't shy away from wooden wall panelling

While we're on the topic of using timber finishes in the bathroom, do take the time to consider using wooden wall panelling – it is definitely not just for traditional spaces.

Adam Robertson, MD of Urbane Living, explains why this idea works so well in modern bathrooms. "Wood wall panelling can bring warmth and character to a bathroom and, when designed correctly, can work beautifully in these spaces."

That said, Adam is also keen to highlight that care needs to be taken with installation and positioning to ensure the longevity of bathroom panelling. "Moisture management needs to be considered from the outset. Steam, condensation and poor bathroom ventilation will all affect timber over time, so an effective extractor fan and good airflow are essential.

"Positioning is equally important," adds Adam. "Do not use wood panelling inside shower enclosures or in areas that are regularly exposed to direct water. Instead, consider incorporating timber on feature walls or behind vanity units, where it can add texture and visual interest without being subjected to constant moisture. The finish also plays a crucial role. A high quality lacquer or specialist water resistant treatment will provide greater protection and make surfaces easier to maintain. Slatted timber panels are a popular choice, but they need to be installed carefully to ensure moisture cannot become trapped behind them."

8. Soften the look by using fabrics in unexpected places

And, finally, while fabric finishes are often avoided in bathrooms, there are ways of introducing them successfully – and this can be a great way to warm an otherwise stark space, as Debbie Leigh, design manager at ILIVexplains. "Textiles are a really useful way to soften a modern bathroom and make it feel more cosy. Bathroom window dressings are particularly important because they control the natural light, which can completely change the atmosphere of your room. To soften a contemporary scheme, you might like to try a relaxed linen or linen look fabric in a warm, natural shade.

"Another idea to soften a modern bathroom is to try using fabric in less expected places, such as a simple curtain beneath a vanity or basin," adds Debbie. "As well as hiding bottles and potions, the fabric will also add some softness, colour and pattern to what can otherwise be quite a hard, streamlined space.

"I would suggest looking for fabrics which have some texture to them as well, and picking colours that you’ve used elsewhere in the room so that it all ties in together."

FAQs

How do you make a modern shower enclosure feel cosy?

While clean, modern shower enclosures can look stunning, there are ways of ensuring they don't feel cold or sterile without ruining their crisp lines.

"We tend to think of a shower tray as another white bathroom fitting, but visually it forms part of the floor, particularly behind a clear shower screen. A bright-white tray can therefore stand out quite sharply in a room where you’ve worked hard to make everything else feel softer," points out Richard Eaton, design manager at Tissino.

"When you’re updating a shower, put the tray sample next to the floor tile before matching it to the basin and toilet. You don’t need an exact match, and trying to achieve one across different materials can be frustrating. What matters is how the two finishes look together, not whether they have the same colour name. Two versions of taupe can be surprisingly different, so comparing the samples side by side is far more useful than choosing from descriptions.

"There’s no need to add texture everywhere, either," adds Richard. "If the bathroom flooring already has plenty of pattern or variation, a smooth tray in a complementary shade can provide a quieter area within the scheme. That’s a useful way to make a modern shower feel less stark without adding more detail to it. I wouldn’t suggest replacing a perfectly good tray just to change the mood of a bathroom, though. This is something to get right when the shower needs updating; for a room that’s otherwise staying as it is, start with the smaller changes."

If you are keen to make sure your modern bathroom really is kitted out with all the latest products, make sure you also keep up-to-speed with current bathroom innovations – they are constantly being updated. And, for an instant modern bathroom style that still has warmth, take a look at these Scandi bathroom ideas to inspire you.

I’ve been DIY renovating my house for the last 8 years, and during that time I’ve used power tools to undertake some pretty extreme projects. There’s no task I won’t attempt, from laying my own parquet floor to boarding out my loft.

Despite the fact that I never have enough time, and my bank balance is always running on empty, the aspect I find most frustrating about renovating a house is the inevitable point during a DIY project where I have to accept that I am the brains and my husband is the brawn.

As a female DIYer, I’ve found that most power tools on the market are either too big or heavy for me to use comfortably, effectively, and safely. I’m on a mission to put appropriate tools into the hands of like-minded women, so save yourself a lot of aches, pains and unfinished projects with my tried-and-tested power tool recommendations.

The power tools I trust as a female DIYer

1. Ryobi 18V ONE+ HP Compact Cordless Brushless Combi Drill

This combi drill packs enough power to tackle masonry as well as the materials you’d expect any drill to work through, like metal, wood and plastic. It can also be used to drive screws.

I find myself reaching for this compact piece of kit time and time again. I’ve used mine to fit skirting boards, prepare subfloors, build a floor-to-ceiling bookcase in my spare room chimney breast, and to hang shelves, mirrors and wall cupboards.

I chose this model because Ryobi claims that it is 10% smaller than its predecessor, making it the perfect size for me to handle. The dimensions of this drill are small enough for me to be able to wrap my fingers around the barrel, alter the settings, and for my whole hand to comfortably reach around the handle while operating the variable speed trigger – all without straining.

With the battery pack attached the drill is still light enough for me to work at height, and well-balanced enough in terms of weight distribution that I don’t have to adjust my grip to counteract any shifting weight as I work. Truly designed with DIYers of all kinds in mind, it makes it easy to switch the speed setting the flick of a switch, and the chuck is smooth and simple to secure when changing the drill bit.

2. Erbauer 18V Brushless V2 Cordless Random Orbit Sander

Before I discovered this sleek Erbauer model, I really struggled with orbital sanders because the surface to grasp is usually too cumbersome for the palm of my hand. I once spent a week on my hands and knees, sanding my parquet floor with one of these sanders to save on the cost of hiring a floor sander. Having to use both hands just to hold the tool securely left me with all sorts of upper body strains and pains.

The grasping surface on this model is oval shaped and fits nicely in my palm, allowing me to effortlessly tap the on/off switch with my index finger, and adjust the variable speed dial with my thumb during use. Without a battery the sander is super-lightweight, but the battery pack does add a lot of heft, so I’d recommend that female DIYers purchase a 2.0Ah battery to go with this tool, instead of a 4.0Ah one.

3. Draper 230V Storm Force Oscillating Multi-Tool

My multi-tool has rescued many a project, enabling me to make fine adjustments to wooden details, sand awkward corners, and paint-scrape hard-to-reach places. On this model the accessory is changed using an Allen key, which doesn’t require too much strength to loosen or tighten and is suitable for hands of any size.

The body of this tool is more slimline than those of other models I've used, making it painless for me to hold in one hand while I use my free hand to stabilise my project. I don’t usually opt for corded tools, but I need to be nimble and nifty with my multi-tool, and I find that a heavy battery can make for an awkward user experience.

Having to take into account offsetting an uneven weight distribution hugely impacts the results of my work as I manoeuvre the tool into nooks and crannies. This Draper model is basic, but it avoids these issues, and ticks all the boxes for me at a very accessible price point.

4. Vonhaus 405mm Scroll Saw with LED Light

I cannot sing the praises of this scroll saw loud enough. For creative women like me, with a background in craft, this feels like the DIY version of a sewing machine. A scroll saw is the bench-top version of a jigsaw, which completely removes the burden of holding a heavy power tool, and leaves both hands free for guiding and handling the wood, metal or plastic that you’re working on.

Features such as the drop foot (for securing the piece that you’re working on) and the sturdy blade guard help me feel safe and in control of the tool. I still sometimes find the freedom of a hand-held tool a bit nerve wracking if I haven’t used it in a while.

The cutting speed and table angle are both adjustable via straightforward dials and screws, so I have total confidence before even starting up the tool. Then, all that’s left is to focus on the task at hand while I’m operating the saw. I like to use my scroll saw to cut irregular or intricate shapes to add the finishing decorative details to my woodwork projects.

Why are some power tools better for women than others?

Traditionally power tools have been designed around the measurements and grip strength of men. This means that attributes such as the handle circumference, weight distribution and trigger reach are uncomfortable for the average female hand, as women tend to have smaller hands, shorter fingers and lower grip strength.

“I remember trying to drill into a stud when renovating a bathroom and I literally had to drive it in because I had one hand trying to grip this power tool, press the trigger, and hold the weight of it. It was quite high up, I was trying to push from behind and it was going nowhere. I had no strength or force left in me because operating the drill was so difficult a task in itself,” says Sharn Rayment, a DIY Content Creator who is currently renovating her house in London and sharing the journey on Instagram and TikTok.

Sharn continues, “I don’t think power tools are designed with women in mind at all. I think they’re designed for trade and if we look at the people in those trade roles, they’re mostly men. But I think in DIY there’s a gap in the market there, and it’s growing as we see more and more woman online showing other women how to do DIY, how to renovate their own house, how to do projects big and small. I can see why the tools haven’t caught up yet but I can also see how it’s something that needs to be addressed.”

She adds that power tool brands could improve their offering for female DIYers by, “looking at the ergonomics of their tools, along with the standard measurements and sizes of women’s hands and physicality, and by asking what do women need to get out of a power tool and what’s going to make using these tools easier for them.

“These manufacturers should be consulting with women. We don’t just want tools to be painted pink, we want tools that are easier in the hand, not quite as heavy and supplied with clear instructions.”

FAQs

What should every female DIYer have in their tool box?

Emily Porecka, professional tradeswoman and owner of Emily’s Handywoman Services, says: “At the top of my list would be an impact driver and a combi drill. A combi drill is good for putting pilot holes into wood. When you drive a screw straight into wood, the wood will split, so you need to pilot it first with your combi drill and then screw into it with an impact driver. Having one of each tool saves you the effort of changing your heads all the time.

“Multi-tools come in handy for all sorts of jobs like cutting plasterboard, putting sockets in, and cutting little pieces of wood. I even used mine the other day to cut a steel rod. Your multi-tool is for detailed work, such as when you need to create a place to run a cable but have it flush to the wall.”

The professional DIYer also recommends adding a circular saw and an SDS drill to your starter kit.

Which power tool brands are best for women?

“I’ve got all Erbauer tools and I’ve used them for years,” Emily Porecka shares. “They’re not heavy and I’ve never had an issue holding them. You can easily grip your hand around them.”

Meanwhile, Sharn Rayment is full of praise for Ryobi and Screwfix. “Ryobi are good for lightweight and easy-to-use tools with clear instructions, and they do a really good detail sander and jigsaw,” she says.

“I also find you don’t need to spend the world to get good power tools if you’re a DIYer. Screwfix’s own rage, Titan, are really good, and I’ve used a lot of their stuff. They’re really good value and they’re targeted more towards DIYers.”

Feeling inspired to take on some more DIY projects with your own tools and skills? Read our guides on how to use a plumb bob and line and tile spacers to top up your toolkit.

A home’s functionality can be completely transformed by structural changes. A new doorway can enhance circulation without increasing floor size, and removing a wall can transform a small kitchen and compact dining room into a single light-filled family area.

However, these modifications may be some of the most costly and difficult aspects when renovating a house. The amount of wall being removed is not the only factor that affects the cost. It is essential to determine whether it is load bearing, what it supports, and how those loads will be safely transferred. Structural calculations, steel beams, temporary supports, Building Regulations approval, and lengthy making good may also be part of the work.

Here, I explain what can impact costs and what you can expect to pay for the most common structural changes made when renovating or extending.

What to consider when making structural changes

At the most basic level, it might cost between £500 and £1,500 to remove a lightweight partition wall. On the other hand, it could cost between £15,000 and £30,000 or more to open up a large section of a ground floor room or create a substantial structural frame prior to a new kitchen, flooring and decoration being installed.

These price ranges are predicated on standard features and reasonable access, and that the home is a typical one. They are budgetary estimates for labour and materials for homeowners. Since not all builders are registered for VAT, make sure of the VAT position too or double-check with a tax advisor such as Andrew Jones (The VATman) Ltd.

Approval procedures and terminology also differ around the country, plus you should always get written quotes and recommendations for your project.

Removing a non-load-bearing wall

One of the easiest ways to alter a layout is to remove a non-load-bearing wall or partition. It can be used to create a bigger bedroom, connect two smaller reception rooms or connect a kitchen and dining area.

Although some brick walls are not load-bearing, the wall may be constructed from timber or metal studs covered with plasterboard. If a wall seems thin or sounds hollow, don’t assume it can’t support weight. It might support another wall, a section of the roof, or joists. Before demolition, an experienced professional should verify its function.

A basic plasterboard partition can be removed if you’re useful at DIY, after its functionality has been verified. Identify any hidden pipes or cables first, then think about ventilation, escape routes and fire separation. Use a qualified builder to take the wall down if you’re unsure.

Making good can take more time than the demolition, which might only take a day. The demolished wall creates a gap in the floor, and adjacent walls and ceilings require patch plastering.

The combined area may require new flooring because it might be challenging to match dated existing finishes. Before you start working, take a thorough look at both rooms. Once the separating wall is gone, seemingly consistent floor levels, skirtings, ceiling lines and coving may change.

Decide beforehand whether the builder will simply repair the damaged sections or prepare the room for decoration. For simple removal and minimal repair, budget between £500 and £1,500.

If sockets, switches, radiators or plumbing need to be modified, or if more extensive plastering, flooring and decoration are needed, costs could increase to between £1,500 and £3,000.

Removing a chimney breast

In smaller terraced and semi-detached homes, removing an unused chimney breast might free up essential floor space. However, what looks like a straightforward projection in a room might be part of a much broader structure that extends right through the roof, loft and floor above.

You need to decide if you want to remove the breast from the roof, both levels, or just one room. The brickwork above must be supported, possibly by a steel beam, if only the ground floor section is removed. Building Regulations approval is typically required for chimney breast removal, and the support may need to be designed by a structural engineer.

Shared walls may be covered by the Party Wall Act, and additional permission may be required for any external modifications and listed buildings.

Repairing the party wall, installing new floorboards and joists, patching ceilings, replastering, and adjusting services are examples of making good. Soot and old hearths increase mess and disposal costs as well.

To minimise condensation, any remaining flue should be vented. When a chimney is shared, the state and usage of the neighbour’s flue must also be considered. If masonry is removed without first examining the entire layout, structural, damp, and perhaps hazardous flue issues, may result.

Set aside between £2,500 and £5,000 for the removal of a single chimney breast using appropriate support and standard materials. The cost of removing chimney breasts on first and ground floors could range from £5,000 to £9,000. It might cost between £7,500 and £15,000 or more to remove everything through the loft and roof, including scaffolding, roof repairs and weathering features. Major decoration and new flooring are not included in these figures.

Widening door openings

While maintaining some space between areas, widening a doorway can increase accessibility, let in more light into a nearby space or improve the visual connection between two rooms.

When a completely open-plan style would be too costly or difficult, it is frequently a helpful compromise. First you must determine the position of services such as wiring, the existing lintel and the wall construction. There must be enough masonry at both ends of the entrance.

The new lintel or beam in a load-bearing wall requires sufficient support. A lightweight partition can easily be widened, but widening masonry produces more dust and debris and also requires temporary support. When structural loads are involved, DIY work is not sensible. Calculations and approval under the Building Regulations may be necessary.

Before the builder begins, determine the finished opening size. Plaster, linings, a new frame, and the chosen doors must all fit into the structural opening. Compared to a straightforward open archway, pocket doors and glazed screens require more precise setting out and may call for thicker walls.

For a simple opening in a non-load-bearing wall, budget between £600 and £1,500, which includes basic plastering but does not include the door or decoration. It might cost between £1,500 and £4,000 to widen an opening in load-bearing masonry and install a new lintel or small steel beam.

Creating or altering a stair opening

Major layout alterations, basement constructions and loft conversions all involve new stair openings. New trimming joists, beams or steelwork surrounding the stairwell must incorporate the cut joists.

Strength, stair pitch, headroom, guarding and fire safety must all be considered in the design. Additionally, a bedroom or landing may need to be reconfigured to make room for a repositioned stair opening.

Before buying and installing the staircase, budget between £2,500 and £6,000 for the installation and trimming of a standard opening. It can cost between £6,000 and £12,000 or more for complex openings with steel beams, changes to the walls below or restricted access.

For a typical softwood or hardwood domestic flight, the staircase costs may add between £2,000 and £6,000, with custom designs costing significantly more.

Removing a single load-bearing wall

Removing a load-bearing wall is a traditional method of combining two reception rooms or creating a kitchen-diner, but it requires a lot more work than simply removing a dividing wall.

Floors, walls and even the roof above may all be supported. After the wall is removed, such loads need to be carried via foundations, padstones, and supporting walls by a beam.

A structural engineer will determine the loads and design the padstones, beams and bearings. Wider spans may call for paired steels, columns or a goalpost frame, whereas smaller apertures might only need one steel.

Appropriate fire protection is also necessary for the steelwork. When designing the beam, consider its appearance. It is typically easier and cheaper to leave a down stand underneath the ceiling. Although it may need more intricate joist alterations, and extra labour, concealing the beam within the floor area can produce a cleaner outcome.

The builder will install temporary supports before demolition. Because early removal could result in movement, cracking or partial collapse, the correct sequence is essential and sometimes needs to be designed by a structural engineer prior to demolition. It is not a DIY project!

Approval under the Building Regulations is usually necessary, too. Before the steel is covered, building control will inspect significant stages in the construction. Make sure that you retain the completion certificate, approval paperwork and structural calculations for a future sale.

For a standard household opening, budget between £3,000 and £7,500 for the structural work alone. Although quotes will differ on what they include, this should cover demolition, temporary support, a standard steel beam or RSJ (reinforced steel joist) and basic making good.

The cost could reach £8,000 to £15,000 or more in cases involving a huge span, awkward access, more columns, foundation work or a structural frame. The cost of the beam is just one factor. The cost of fabrication, shipping, lifting, temporary works, padstones, fireproofing and making good can be significantly more. Steel components are heavy and seldom show up unplanned through the front door.

The builder can require several operatives, lifting apparatus or steel that is produced in parts and fastened together on site. Any modification to the original design requires the structural engineer’s approval.

Creating larger open-plan spaces

The large kitchen, dining and living space that many renovators desire can be created by opening up the majority of a building’s ground floor. While keeping adequate structure to support the upper floors and roof, it may require removing a few walls, including a combination of lightweight partitions and load-bearing masonry.

A box frame, columns, or interconnected steels may be necessary for supporting large openings. Beneath columns, new foundations may also be specified and designed.

Before you go down this route, however, you should consider both the finished room’s functionality and its appearance. For some families, a fully open layout may be less practical due to noise, cooking odours or the lack of a calm reception area.

Heating controls that are divided into zones may also be important in large areas. For significant structural changes to a typical home’s ground floor, budget anywhere between £8,000 and £20,000.

The cost of a complicated rebuild involving installing many beams, columns and new foundations might range from £20,000 to £40,000 or more. However, large expanses of windows, high-end flooring, a new kitchen and a complete makeover fall outside of these costs and might potentially surpass the structural cost.

If your budget is tight, think about whether a broken-plan arrangement might be more effective than an open one. Glazed doors or partial openings can minimise steelwork while maintaining a sense of separation between spaces.

Structural changes for extensions

Typically, building an extension involves the removal of a section of the existing external wall. A large opening can be an important structural component since it may support the floors, roof and walls above.

While one simple doorway beam may be needed for a little knock-through, structural framework, columns or paired beams may be needed for large openings.

While the space is being created, the current house must remain stable. It may be necessary to divert existing drains that straddle new foundations. Correct connections are required for roofs, floors, insulation, damp proofing and thresholds. It might also be necessary to relocate services on the original external wall.

At the tender stage of the project, access for the steel should be taken into account. The builder could require a crane or telehandler if it is unable to go through the house or around the side. Cost, sequencing, and potentially road permits are all affected by this.

Budget between £4,000 and £10,000 for a simple opening between the house and the extension. The cost of a large side or rear wall opening with extensive fabricated steelwork might range from £8,000 to £20,000 or more.

This does not include the cost of building and fitting out the extension, just the structural modification to the current home.

What things have an impact on structural costs?

There are several factors that can have an impact on how much it will cost to make structural changes to your home:

• Older homes may have undocumented changes, poor foundations, uneven walls or historic movement. Repairing original floors, cornices and plaster is also expensive.
• A timber partition differs greatly from dense masonry, stone or concrete, so wall construction is an important consideration. Strengthening supporting walls might also be necessary.
• The approach taken, and the resulting cost, will be affected by access. Installing a long steel that is carried through a side entry is less expensive than installing one that requires a crane, the removal of windows or additional fabrication. More security is also required for occupied homes.
• Labour, professional fees and disposal are all affected by the property’s location. In parts of the south-east of England and London they might be significantly higher than average.
• Costs associated with design, manufacture and installation are increased by longer spans of steelwork, loads from more than one storey and constrained bearing space.
• A contingency sum is crucial since demolition may potentially uncover wet, rotted joists, shoddy modifications, leaking pipes or wiring that is old and outdated.

Additional costs homeowners often forget

In addition to the structural work itself, there are other costs you need to factor in when planning your budget for the work.

For a simple beam, the cost of a structural engineer can range from £350 to £750. The cost of several beams, frames, drawings and site visits could range from £1,000 to £3,000 or more.

For a minor modification, architectural or technician’s fees for drawings and coordination could range from £750 to £2,000; larger projects would cost more.

Building control fees range from £300 to £900 for a variety of domestic structural modifications. Planning permission is typically not required for internal alterations, although it is necessary for external work and listed buildings. Budget for guidance and possibly also surveyor fees if the work affects a party wall.

Depending on size, location and permits, a skip can cost anywhere from £200 to £800 to hire. Multiple collections may be needed for heavy masonry.

A larger job may also cost an additional £3,000 to £10,000 for plastering, decoration, joinery, flooring, electrics and plumbing. Unless the quotations expressly specify differently, include VAT.

How to budget and cut costs

It’s important to obtain a minimum of four written quotations based on the same scope and drawings, which is always my advice for any tenders. Using a quantity surveyor to produce a schedule of works will assist this process as there is too much room for interpretation in a one-line estimate.

Verify that quotes cover lifting, padstones, fire protection, waste management, temporary supports, steel manufacture and delivery and making good. Carefully define ‘making good’, considering whether surfaces will be prepared for decoration.

Establish a contingency sum of 10 to 15%. For older properties or major unknowns, this amount should be increased to 15 to 20 %. Until the structure is opened up, be sure to keep it separate in your budget.

Verify references, insurance, experience and exclusions. At the tender stage, selecting a qualified structural builder is more important than saving a tiny percentage.

You can potentially reduce costs by minimising needless service changes, maintaining functional wall sections and limiting spans. Before ordering steel, ask the builder and structural engineer to address any concerns you may have. A late modification to a beam length, connection type, or column may result in additional fabrication costs and cause the project to be delayed.

To avoid opening up completed finishes later, it is also important to decide who will notify building control and schedule each inspection.

Instead of organising the task as a collection of separate trades, plan it as a sequence. The proper sequence must be followed for demolition, steelwork, services, plastering, flooring and decoration. A practical plan of action minimises follow-up visits and keeps freshly finished work from getting damaged by the next stage.

Making structural changes to your home is a way to obtain more usable living space without having to move house. Demolition is obviously one cost incurred, but the process also involves structural engineering, temporary support, services, permissions and the finishes that bring the modified rooms back together.

For a more comprehensive picture of the costs you might incur in total, it's worth taking a look at our guide to renovation costs, and for an immediate idea of your potential extensions costs, use our free extension cost calculator.

As a final note, prior to any structural changes, let your house insurer know that you are carrying out the works as this may cover you in the event of any issues that may arise. Depending on the scale of the work, you may need to take out specialist renovation insurance.

It’s also worth taking out a structural warranty for major works with companies like Self Build Zone. With the right consideration and good design, well-planned structural changes will add value in the long term for your project.

Deciding what to plant in October can lift what might otherwise feel like a bit of a dreary month. So cheer yourself up by adding to the garden. In most regions there is still time to plant before the really cold weather sets in and you also have the added bonus of bare root planting season to enjoy. This stretches from the end of this month until spring and gives you the chance to add ornamental and fruiting trees and shrubs to your garden design without breaking the bank.

October planting also lends itself to perennials and ornamental grasses that will get established and go dormant for winter before coming back to life next spring. Biennials such as sweet williams and foxgloves can also be planted now for next year.

So get out in the garden, get planning and start planting! Put in the work in October and you will reap the reward in the months ahead as your flowerbeds spring into life when the warmer weather returns.

1. Roses

We are on the cusp of bare root season when trees and shrubs can be bought small, cheap and dormant, ready to grow when the weather warms up again next spring.

Apart from their delicious blooms and scent, roses are pretty versatile and you can find one to suit every garden, be it a climbing roses, a rambler, shrub rose or dwarf variety suitable for growing roses in pots.

They do best in a sunny spot and are unlikely to flower as well in shade, and their soil should be free-draining and enriched with lots of well-rotted compost or manure as they are hungry plants.

Top tip: To get lots of eye-level flowers on rambling and climbing roses, make sure the blooming stems are tied horizontally to their supports once the plants are a couple of years old and are starting to flower well.

2. Crab apple

While crab apple trees are infinitely beneficial when growing other apples as they are general pollinators, they are also well worth adding to an ornamental garden.

They are relatively compact so make a great tree for small gardens, and often grow in a graceful shape. They also give something to the garden through every season of the year.

In spring they are dressed in sweet smelling pink-and-white blossom, then little apples that are either red or yellow appear in late summer and the leaves often turn glorious shades of red and auburn in autumn. Then once they drop, you are left with an attractive skeleton of branches!

Best of all, crab apples are low-maintenance trees and happy in a range of soils. They will do best if it is free-draining and in a sunny spot, though they can cope with partial shade.

Top tip: Crab apples are good for birds and wildlife and their small fruits make extremely tasty jelly.

3. Sweet Williams

If you have gaps in your garden borders or pots that need filling with plants that will guarantee a colourful show late next spring through the early summer, look no further than sweet williams.

A traditional cottage garden plant famed for its pink and white blooms that cluster above slim-pointed leaves they are incredibly easy to grow and will also self-seed, giving you colour for years to come. Low growing and with a sweet peppery scent, they also work well as a cutting flower as they have a long vase life.

Plant sweet williams in sunny, well-drained soil, though they will tolerate light shade and also grow well in containers. Plant them now when the soil is still warm from summer, and their roots will start to grow and establish in the ground.

They will sit through autumn and winter, though they may need mulching with well-rotted compost or manure if we have hard frosts, and will start to grow again early next spring before flowering later in the season and into early summer.

Top tip: Sweet williams are perfect for attracting pollinators including bees and butterflies so are an ideal addition to a wildlife garden area.

4. Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian Sage)

If you are looking for an elegant shrubby plant that will add grace and colour to your border in late summer and autumn and be a magnet for beneficial insects next summer, look no further than Perovskia atriplicifolia or Russian sage (available from Gardening Express).

Growing to a final height of 1.2m, the plant is made up of several frondy branches holding small, sage-scented leaves and, through late summer and autumn, a wealth of delicate mauve flowers.

A tough character, it thrives in any sunny, well-drained spot but also deserves a place in modern planting schemes and gravel gardens. Grow it alongside grasses and other architectural perennials such as globe thistles, echinacea and eryngiums.

Top tip: To keep your Perovskia atriplicifolia shapely and flowering well each year, prune it back hard in mid to late spring to create an attractive woody framework.

5. Clematis

If a bare wall is crying out for colour, clematis are an easy and eye-catching way of providing exactly that. It's best to plant clematis now when the soil is warm and damp. They will really thrive in a spot where they get a good amount of sun on their top growth, but the soil gets more shade.

Clematis should be planted deep, so make sure the crown of the plant, where it emerges from its pot of compost, is at least 7-10cm below ground level. This encourages them to put on more subterranean growth which leads to stronger plants and a faster coverage of whatever they are growing against.

All clematis varieties thrive in free-draining soil and also need plenty of watering while they get established. They also like their roots kept cool, so covering the planting area with a flag stone or a couple of bricks will help.

Once they are planted, reduce any top growth to 15cm, which will promote the development of more shoots when they start to grow again in spring.

Top tip: Although clematis like sun on their top growth, too many harsh rays can cause their blooms to bleach.

6. Spring bulbs

If spring bulbs were on your list of what to plant in September and your beds and borders are already jam-crammed full of them but you still hanker for more, why not consider planting bulbs in a lawn instead?

Planting bulbs in this way is called ‘naturalising’ and it's a simple way of planting that packs a beautiful punch. It is usually used for smaller and dwarf varieties such as crocuses, mini daffodils and tulips, drifts of snowdrops and snakehead fritillaries, but the taller blue spires of Camassia also look stunning poking through the grass, especially among fruit trees.

Planting bulbs in your lawn is neither complicated nor messy. They need to go in the ground at three times their own depth, as you would in a bed or pot, and this is easily done with a sharp bulb planter, such as this Spear & Jackson bulb planter from Amazon. You are aiming to create as natural a look as possible, so start by gently throwing a handful of bulbs – one variety or a mix – onto the grass and planting them where they fall.

Remove a plug of earth and grass and pop each bulb in its own hole, pointed end up. Then infill with soil, replace the cap of grass and firm in. Water well, even when rain is forecast. The bulbs will mature and multiply over the years to create a large and colourful spread.

Top tip: Squirrels, badgers and foxes love a freshly planted bulb, so pin wire mesh over the planting site to keep them safe.

7. Biennials (including wallflowers and foxgloves)

Biennials are plants that germinate and develop leaves one year, then flower, set seed and die back the next. Add them to your October planting list and their seedlings will have time to get established and put on some root growth before the cold weather hits.

Biennials include sweet rocket, honesty and forget-me-nots. They are easy-going plants and most can be potted up and overwintered undercover then planted out when the soil starts to warm next spring.

While the soil still retains some summer warmth, you should also plant out any hardy biennials you sowed and grew earlier in the year.

Bare root wallflower plants – another biennial – are usually widely and cheaply available now in garden centres, so buy a bunch for early spring colour and scent.

Top tip: Honesty plants develop deep tap-roots and do not transplant well so for the best results, sow them directly where you wish them to grow.

8. Hellebores

Hellebores, widely known as Lenten or Christmas roses, are one of the first perennials to flower in early spring, and also one of the most beautiful. Most varieties thrive in light shade that gets some full sun at some point during the day, and they like enriched, free-draining soil.

If you have heavy clay soil, make sure you dig in lots of well-rotted manure or compost and a little grit before planting. If you have areas of deeper shade that need lightening, plant all-green Hellebore foetidus, or stinking hellebore, as they are happy in darker conditions and offer a valuable supply of early nectar for pollinators.

Hellebores are also one of the best plants for winter pots, so they're a great option if you want to add a splash of colour to garden planters during the colder months. Hellebore 'Double Ellen Pink' from Thompson & Morgan is ideal for shady borders and containers and will add an instant splash of colour to your planting schemes over the colder months.

Top tip: In autumn, remove old and tatty hellebore leaves to make room for new foliage growth and the buds when they start to emerge.

9. Perennials

Hellebores are not the only perennials to add to your October planting list. The coldest months are not yet upon us, so any perennial included in your garden border planting now will still have time to stretch out its roots and settle in before it goes into winter hibernation.

For this reason, October is the perfect time to look around your garden, see what gaps you have in your flower beds and decide what to fill them with.

When planting a perennial, such as agapanthus, first of all stand its pot in water so the roots get a good drink and it's easier to slide out the rootball without slender feeder roots snagging on the sides of the container.

While it is soaking, excavate the planting hole to the same depth as the plant’s pot and slightly wider. If soil is heavy or clay, score the sides of the hole with your fork to improve its drainage and prevent it becoming a waterlogged ‘bucket’.

Add some well-rotted compost or manure to the bottom of the hole and sprinkle in some bone meal, which will break down through winter and nourish the roots next spring.

Perennials should be planted at the same depth as the pot you bought them in, so check your excavation is deep enough by standing the plant in it while it's still in its pot. Then take the plant from its pot and carefully tease out any roots that are circling the others or tangled, and place the plant in its hole.

Infill around the rootball with soil and compost, firming it down as you go, then water well and mulch the root area with a generous layer of well-rotted compost or manure. If you want to make your own compost, we've got plenty of tips on composting in our guide, too.

Top tip: When choosing a plant, always read its label before purchasing to make sure you have the right conditions and space for its optimum growth. It will fail to thrive if it is in the wrong spot or has too little space, and you will have wasted your money.

10. Wildflowers

Wildflower lawns, or patches of lawn, are growing in popularity and are increasingly important for our beleaguered insects and wildlife as we continue to build all over their natural habitats.

If you want to plant a wildflower meadow next year, then autumn is the time to start preparing the soil. Wildflowers do best on poor soil so don’t give your lawn its traditional autumn feed, if you usually do this, but do rake out dead grass and moss and don’t leave lawn trimmings lying on the ground as they will enrich the soil.

The next step is to sow the seeds of yellow rattle (available from Amazon), a semi-parasitic plant that weakens the grass roots, thus helping wildflower seeds or plug plants get established when they are sown and planted next spring.

The seeds are widely available online and yellow rattle in itself is an attractive plant with pretty serrated leaves and cheerful yellow flowers that insects love.

Top tip: Don’t forget to keep raking up fallen leaves that land on your lawn as they block sunlight and can harbour pests and disease. They don't have to go to waste, however, as you can make leaf mould and turn them into a rich soil conditioner for use on your beds and borders.

11. Hollyhocks

Hollyhocks make a beautiful addition to a classic cottage garden, introducing statuesque height and colour to any planting scheme.

I've successfully grown hollyhocks from seed and I am still completely thrilled by the success. They brought late colour to the garden, flowering from August well into autumn when I had to stake them up against the first storms of autumn.

Flushed with my success, I am sowing more seeds now, so the seedlings have time to germinate and grow large enough to be planted out earlier than this year’s plants, hopefully flowering earlier as a result.

Once the seedlings have germinated and grown large enough to handle carefully – usually when their small, round germination leaves have been replaced by two sets of 'proper' foliage – you can transplant seedlings from their seed tray to individual pots of compost.

Fill a 7cm pot with multipurpose compost , dampen it and make a deep hole in the centre. Carefully lift the seedling's roots from its tray of compost using an old teaspoon or the end of a plant label and keep the plantlet steady by delicately holding a leaf between fingertip and thumb. Never hold the stem as it is very fragile so you may damage it.

Then pop the roots into the hole in the compost and carefully firm the compost around the stem. Keep the compost damp and the plant pest-free as it grows, and plant it out next spring when the soil has started to warm up and the frosts have finished.

Top tip: Hollyhock rust is a prevalent fungal disease, so if you grow hollyhocks, plant them away from where they have grown previously.

12. Poppies

One of the best ways to make a colourful statement in your garden is to add some poppies to your list of what to plant in October.

Whether they are scarlet field poppies, blowsy Oriental poppies or the slightly smaller opium poppies, which produce seeds that can be used as a delicious topping for cakes and bread, they are easy to sow and well worth growing.

Poppies are hardy, which means they can be sown now, or in spring, though seeds that go in the ground in autumn will germinate and flower earlier than spring-sown ones. A handy trick is to sow some in both seasons so you get a longer succession of colour.

Simply create a seedbed by clearing soil of weeds, stones and debris and then raking the soil until all the lumps are broken up and you are left with a light, crumbly texture.

Water the area and scatter the seeds. If seedlings emerge too close together you can thin them out as they grow to give remaining plants enough light and air to grow well.

Cover your seeds with a little more soil, tamp it down with the back of a rake and label the spot so you don’t accidentally disturb the soil when gardening.

Keep pests, cats and birds away by laying a trellis of spiky twigs or using a deterrent spray or pepper powder.

Top tip: Poppies look gorgeous sown with other wildflower varieties such as cornflowers and corncockles. Annual grasses also set off their dramatic shapes and colours to good effect.

13. Calendula

Calendula, also known as Scotch or pot marigolds, are fabulous hardy annuals that bring a burst of brightness to borders and containers.

We have one growing in a sheltered area of the garden that has been flowering for the past 18 months – right through the cold of winter and well into this summer! The many calendula varieties come in an array of shades, from eye-popping orange to soft cream and deep red. Calendula 'Sherbet Fizz', available from Thompson & Morgan, has a particularly striking colour combination of orange petals with red undersides.

An added benefit of growing marigolds is that their flowers are edible, and their petals have been used to decorate dishes for centuries and as a colourant for butter and cheese.

For a long flowering season, sow them now and again in spring in well-prepared soil in a sunny spot. Thin the seedlings if they are growing too thickly.

If you want to grow Tagetes, the frilly French marigolds, they are only half-hardy and are best sown in pots undercover in spring and planted out once the weather has warmed up and frosts are a thing of the past.

Top tip: Plant a few Tagetes around your vegetable garden as their smell has been scientifically proved to deter whitefly, therefore protecting your crops from this pest.

14. Aquilegia

Aquilegia (also known as columbine and granny’s bonnet), are one of the most varied and diverse of summer flowers, appearing in a wide range of colours and shapes. They cross-breed easily and the end results are plants in a dazzling array of shapes, stem length and colours, from cool cream and green to vibrant reds and purples.

Best of all, caring for them is easy as they are simple to grow, and happy in all soil types, as long as they have some sun and get enough water. They also self-seed remarkably easily, so once you start growing them, they will be with you for the foreseeable future!

For the best results, sow them in trays of seed compost and germinate them on a light, warm windowsill. If they fail to sprout, pop the seed tray in the fridge for two to three weeks, as this ‘tricks’ the seeds into thinking they have been through winter, so they germinate when they are brought back into room temperature.

Grow on the seedlings and plant them to where you want them to flower next spring when it starts to warm up.

To give your October plantings the best chance of success, get up to speed with the differences between compost and topsoil and learn what to use where when growing new plants.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Choose a low-maintenance tree for your garden and you can add height, structure, shape and interest in one easy step.

Although there are lots of great options available, there are also some trees that are best avoided if you're after a low-maintenance option. Some trees might have invasive root systems which can interfere with building foundations, or perhaps they shed messy berries or nuts which require frequent clearing up if your garden is small or paved. Alternatively, the tree could be an extremely fast grower which requires regular or even professional trimming, which can be expensive.

With this in mind, our recommendations are for tolerant, easy-care trees which will grow in a variety of soils, light conditions and climates. They are guaranteed to offer shelter, shade, privacy and a haven for wildlife which should last a lifetime. Here are our favourite picks for your low-maintenance garden.

1. Eucryphia nymansensis

Also known as the ‘brush bush,’ this tree offers year-round interest with evergreen foliage and large, scented cup-shaped white flowers in late summer to autumn.

Grow it in partial shade or full sun in a sheltered spot. It is a good choice for larger low-maintenance gardens, reaching an ultimate height of 12-15m. It will look after itself once it’s established, and only really requires a light trim in late winter.

2. Silver birch

The pure white bark of the birch tree is pretty in any season, but it comes into its own in the winter months, when it lights up the garden at the dullest time of the year. Better still, "these trees are bullet proof," says the experts at Form Plants. They recommend the multi-stemmed variety, such as Betula utilis jacquemontii ‘Snow Queen.’

Silver birch will grow in sun or semi-shade in most types of well-drained soil. Once established, these trees need minimal care, and will withstand harsh winters.

For small gardens, try a single-stem variety but always double check the ultimate height and spread before purchasing.

3. Ornamental Cherry

Cherry trees are an asset to any garden design idea. They are prized for their stunning spring blossom in a confetti of pink or white and some varieties are scented. There is plenty of choice in many sizes.

A compact low-maintenance tree is the weeping Prunus yedoensis (available from Thompson & Morgan) which reaches 3m tall in 10 years. A small but stunning choice is Cherry ‘Pink Shell’ which has pastel pink flowers turning to white in April. Slightly larger, Prunus Incisa ‘The Bride’ is covered with single white flowers with a blushed centre from March to April. It grows to about 4m.

Ornamental cherry trees like full sun with moist, well-drained garden soil types. They can also be a good tree for growing in pots.

4. Cornus

Not to be confused with cornus shrubs, cornus or dogwood trees are prized for their pretty flowers and ornamental berries. They will thrive in sun or part shade in all soil types and are a familiar sight in many UK gardens.

For a mass of white flowers, go for Cornus kousa chinensis ‘Schmetterling’. For pink flowers, try ‘Cherokee Daybreak’ with oval variegated leaves, or ‘Variegata.’

5. Amelanchier 

This tree, also known as shadbush and June serviceberry, is often recommended by garden designers as one of the best low-maintenance trees – and for very good reason.

In late April to May, it has clusters of incredibly pretty white star-shaped flowers on soft copper-coloured foliage, instantly lighting up a spring garden. It is a slim tree, making it a suitable tree for a smaller garden or even a courtyard garden.

Amelanchier Lamarkii ‘Ballerina', available from Thompson & Morgan, grows no taller or wider than 4-5m. Though they look delicate, these hardy trees will cope with damp conditions and most soil types, although they do prefer clay or sandy soil.

6. Chinese Redbud

Here is a small tree which punches above its weight, with dense clusters of rosy pink blossom in late spring before the large heart-shaped leaves appear.

Try Cercis chinensis ‘Avondale’ (available from Gardening Express) for a compact tree, which would make a pretty focal point in a small garden. It won’t grow taller than 4m. It flowers in March/April. If space is really tight, it can be kept small with regular pruning.

It thrives in most soils, and is reasonably drought tolerant, once established. For the optimum number of flowers, plant in an open, sunny position with plenty of light.

7. Crab Apple

With a froth of the prettiest blossom in spring, these trees are a rich source of nectar and pollen for insects, and they add appeal to any eco-friendly garden. There are many different varieties and the heights vary, so check carefully before buying.

Smaller ones include malus ‘Butterball’ (from Thompson & Morgan) and malus ‘Wisley Crab’ which can reach about 4m. A larger variety, growing up to 8m is malus ‘Royalty' (from Crocus) or go for malus x Zumi ‘Golden Hornet’ (from Gardening Express), which bears masses of tiny yellow fruits.

Plant these in full sun, in moist but not wet soil, then there is very little maintenance needed. In winter, simply remove any damaged branches, or ones that cross over each other.

8. Acer

Acers, or maples as they are also known, do need a little more care than some of the other low-maintenance trees on our list, but if they are planted in the ground, rather than in a pot, then they are a laid back and joyful addition to the garden, offering fireworks of autumn colour with their beautifully shaped leaves.

"Maples in the ground will look after themselves," advises expert grower Neil Kenney, author of An Illustrated Guide to Japanese Maples (available on Amazon). "They have a surface root system, so in dry weather, they will need watering and mulching (to retain moisture)."

These slow-growers will never overwhelm the garden, meaning they are a great one to include in a low-maintenance garden border. There are many varieties to choose from – try A.palmatum ‘Bloodgood’, which has leaves that will turn from dark red to a searing crimson in autumn.

9. Olive

If you live in a reasonably warm region, trees don’t get much easier to look after than an elegant olive. They are slow growing with attractive silvery, sage-coloured foliage which is evergreen.

There are a few essential care tips. If you are growing an olive tree in a garden planter, it will need watering weekly in hot dry periods in summer, and it’s a good idea to give it a feed in spring with a granular fertiliser.

If temperatures drop to below -12˚C for long periods, the olive tree will need to be over-wintered inside. But in sheltered gardens, when it’s likely to drop below -10˚C, throwing a horticultural fleece coat over the tree should be enough to keep it from frost damage. This garden fleece frost protection from Amazon is suitable for a wide range of plants.

10. Crape Myrtle

Also known as lagerstroemia, this showstopping, low-maintenance tree delivers year-round interest with gorgeous crinkly edged flowers in white, purple or violet in summer, followed by yellow, gold and orange foliage in autumn and then pretty peeling grey/orange bark in the winter months.

It will need planting in a sunny spot, and requires regular watering until it has bedded in. Certain varieties cope better than others with cold weather. The ‘Indiya Charms’ collection offer hardier varieties, but when a harsh frost is forecast, it is still a good idea to pop over a horticultural fleece. There’s no pruning needed, just plant and let it grow.

Lagerstroemia 'Pink Velour', available from Thompson & Morgan, has long-lasting flowers but will need a sunny, sheltered spot to do its best.

11. Magnolia

Perfect for a sheltered spot, these are easy-going, low-maintenance trees, provided they are planted in the right place and in suitable soil. Magnolias can be evergreen or deciduous trees, and there are many varieties to choose from, but they all have stunning, large tulip-shaped or starry flowers which create a focal point.

If your garden has fertile, well-drained clay or acidic soil and it’s not situated in a frost pocket, the magnolia is a brilliant choice (frost will discolour the blossom). They need a very light trim in mid-summer to early autumn, just enough to remove any dead or diseased branches, and benefit from a mulch in spring.

Magnolia 'Susan' (available from Crocus) is a good option for smaller gardens as it will only reach an eventual height of around four metres.

FAQs

How do I choose the right low maintenance tree for my garden? 

Trees are an investment, so it’s important to pick one that’s going to thrive as part of your garden landscaping plans. "A specialist tree supplier or nursery will give you all the information you need," say the experts at Form Plants. "You may be able to book a site visit, so they can assess the soil in your garden before advising you on what to plant."

If this is not possible, when you go tree shopping, take along some photos of your garden showing the proposed site for your tree, including the distance from your house. It can also worth doing this if you're shopping for other plants such as low-maintenance evergreen shrubs too, as it will help your supplier advise on the right option for your space.

How can I help a low-maintenance tree to establish strong roots? 

"People can be put off by the idea of planting trees, but the majority are low maintenance if you look after the roots," say Form Plants. "This is straightforward to do. Before you buy or plant a tree, take time to prepare the soil, digging in some organic matter and doing everything you can to enhance what’s already there."

Organic matter means bought or homemade compost or well-rotted manure. This helps to improve soil structure which leads to healthier plants.

On poor soil, a sprinkle of mycorrhizal fungi (available at Amazon) will also help the tree to establish strong, healthy roots.

Do I need to water a low-maintenance tree? 

Yes, young or newly planted trees should be watered every couple of weeks for about two years after planting. Freshly planted trees have not yet developed a strong root system, so they cannot store much water, which is why they need a regular dose. This is particularly important if you're planting a bare root tree too.

Try to water early or late in the day, so the liquid does not evaporate. Use a garden hose or a bucket, and if the tree is in a pot, go slowly, so that the water soaks in thoroughly, rather than running off.

According to the Tree Council even mature trees should be watered three times a month from April to September. Its advice says: "Concentrate on watering under the canopy of the tree as this is likely to be where the roots are."

If you have never planted a tree before, the prospect of growing such a large and relatively expensive plant can be daunting. In reality, trees are often easier to look after and less needy than some of their smaller plant counterparts.

So long as the ground is prepared before planting, and a suitable variety is chosen for the growing conditions, the most that some trees will demand from you is some water and an occasional trim in the winter.

Looking for other ways to add interest to your garden? Our guide to the best trees with berries has lots more options for creating seasonal interest in your plot.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Worktops are a key component of any kitchen update and can be expensive. However, they can also offer an opportunity to save money you can spend elsewhere on a renovation, perhaps on fancier hardware or smart lighting to uplift the overall appearance.

Plywood may not seem like an obvious option for a budget-friendly kitchen worktop, but it can be.

Here we take a closer look at the benefits a plywood worktop can bring, which plywood you will need to use, how to treat and maintain it so it will stay looking good for years, and why it might not always be the best choice for your renovation.

What is plywood?

Plywood is an engineered wood made of thin layers of wood bonded together with glue and resin. It has an odd number of layers, with each layer rotated 90 degrees from the next to improve strength and resist warping.

This design feature is what makes it a suitable choice for worktops if treated correctly. It is commonly available in 3mm, 6mm, 9mm, 12mm, 15mm and 18mm, with 18mm being a good option for kitchen worktops.

Best plywood for kitchen workops

Several plywood variations suit kitchen worktops. Will Frankling from Kitchen Makeovers explains the different types to look out for. “Birch plywood is the industry standard due to its dense, void-free core layers and fine grain. Hardwood-faced plywood is recommended over softwood options," he continues, "as softwoods dent and scratch too easily for kitchen use.”

Another option is Marine plywood and Will explains why: “It offers superior water resistance due to waterproof glue bonds, making it a strong candidate for wet areas. High-grade exterior or structural plywood (such as B/BB grade) should be specified to ensure a smooth face for finishing and minimal internal core gaps.”

Shop these for the perfect plywood kitchen worktop

Pros and cons of plywood as a kitchen worktop

Plywood has distinct advantages as a kitchen worktop, but it also has definite downsides. Here, we look at both to help you decide whether it meets your needs.

Pros of plywood for worktops

+Lower costs

“The main appeal for plywood is cost,” shares Bern Staerck, managing director of Furniture Clinic. He adds, “It is considerably cheaper than traditional marble, quartz or even butcher block style wood worktops.” However, good-quality plywood can match low-cost laminate.

+Aesthetic appeal

“Plywood offers a distinct, modern aesthetic with visible edge layering, strong structural stability and excellent resistance to warping compared to solid wood,” shares Will Frankling. “It's ideal for a Scandi or industrial style kitchen; the liner striped edges create a striking design feature," adds Bern.

+DIY-friendly

Plywood is much easier to work with than other kitchen worktop materials too. You only need a few tools that a lot of DIYers will already own and know how to use.

Cons of plywood worktops

-Susceptible to moisture

“Raw plywood is highly susceptible to moisture damage, particularly around kitchen sink areas, warns Will Frankling. “Without proper sealing, water can penetrate the layers, leading to delamination, swelling and staining.”

-Wear and tear

Plywood is not as hard-wearing as more traditional kitchen worktops such either; it will show signs of wear and tear and needs regular treatment. Ben Staerck points out: “If you scratch the plywood or scorch it with a hot pan, it can mark quite easily, and will also discolour if spills aren’t cleaned up quickly.”

Treating and protecting plywood

Untreated plywood simply won't work as a kitchen worktop warn the experts. It will damage quickly and absorb moisture. Before it can be a kitchen worktop, it needs treatment and there are a few options. "Oil would always be my recommendation for treating plywood for a kitchen,” shares Bern Staerk.

“It penetrates the wood, rather than sitting on top as a 'film'. It doesn’t crack or chip, and if it wears in one area, you can simply sand and re-oil that specific area, rather than the whole worktop,” he explains.

"Hardwax oils and specialised worktop oils are ideal as they allow the wood to breathe while providing liquid resistance,” agrees Will Frankling. A clear varnish is another option, he continues: "Varnish or polyurethane can create a tough, protective barrier.” But he adds a word of warning. "If cracked, water can seep underneath and rot the wood from within.”

Finally, “all treatments applied must be food-safe once cured,” notes Will. Ben recommends Furniture Clinic Worktop Oil - available from Amazon as "it is a dedicated food-safe option (compliant with the Materials and Articles in Contact with Food Regulations).”

Maintaining a plywood kitchen worktop

Like any kitchen worktop, plywood will need regular daily cleaning. Will Frankling suggests: “Clean daily with warm water, mild soap and a soft microfibre cloth. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners, bleach or abrasive pads.”

Like any natural wood worktop, it will also need regular re-treating. “Re-oil or seal every 3 to 6 months depending on usage," he advises. “Exposed edges require special attention, as end-grain absorbs moisture rapidly and needs additional coats of sealant.”

Ben Staerk offers a quick way to assess when it's time to re-treat: “Try a couple of drops of water on the surface, and if it no longer beads on the surface, it's time to re-coat.”

Comparative costs

Is plywood really a cheap alternative for a kitchen worktop? Yes is the simple answer. However, more expensive plywood can cost the same, or even more than budget-friendly laminate.

For example, a 2440mm x 1220mm sheet of quality 18mm Birch Plywood Throughout BB/BB from B&Q costs around £180. A Burlington oak wood-effect laminate and particleboard Post-formed edge Kitchen Worktop from B&Q costs £75. This is the lowest price you are likely to pay for a laminate worktop.

However, as it can be cut, a sheet of 2440mm x 1220mm plywood provides two 2.4m x 620mm lengths (the standard width for kitchen worktops is 600mm) compared with the laminate mentioned, which offers a single 2.4 m length.

Other options such as Marble, quartz, stone and even solid wood and Corian worktops will typically all cost more than a treated plywood alternative.

DIY tips for making your own plywood worktop

Fitting a plywood kitchen worktop yourself is a clear way to save money, and a task a competent DIYer (like myself) can tackle. Especially if you have a straight run and few corners. Before you start, look at your old worktops and note how they're fitted, especially in the corners.

Straight walls are a real bonus when fitting worktops. If the straight edge of the plywood doesn't sit flush against the wall, you can get away with gaps of up to around 5mm, especially if you're tiling above the worktops.

If you have larger gaps, you'll need to cut the back of the plywood accordingly. A quick tip: place the board in position and use an old-school compass with a pencil. Set the width to match the widest gap, then place the point against the wall and move along the worktop to mark a cut line. Then use a jigsaw like this Lumberjack Professional Jigsaw from B&Q to follow the pencil line for a neat fit.

You also need a few more tools. A decent circular saw like this Einhell 1410W Hand-held Circular Saw from Argos is essential for straight cuts, and you'll need a router like this DeWalt 900W 240V Corded Fixed Router from B&Q for sink cutouts.

For a professional finish, Will Frankling offers easy-to-follow advice: “Use a fine-toothed blade on a circular saw or router to prevent tearing the top veneer layer when cutting.”

My DIY hack to save money

If you're not keen on plywood's natural finish, or want a cheaper alternative, one option I have tried myself is basic plywood topped with self-adhesive plastic. Adding self-adhesive film means you don't have to worry about the plywood's finish. This allows you to buy basic plywood and keep the costs down.

You will however still need to seal the plywood before applying the film. Before you apply it, round off the plywood edges with an orbital sander. Use PVA, varnish, or a primer like Dulux Trade Aqua Uniprimer from B&Q or Bartoline Multi-Purpose PVA Adhesive & Sealer from Amazon to seal. Ensure the sealer is completely dry before applying the film.

I used this D-C-Fix Ribbeck Oak Mid Sheen Wood Effect Vinyl Self-Adhesive Film from B&Q. Treat the worktop with caution; the film is heat-resistant up to 70 degrees, so use trivets like these Silicone Trivets from Amazon for hot pans, and always use a chopping board.

Plywood worktops can form a part of any kitchen renovation. Check out our kitchen layout ideas, small kitchen ideas, and white kitchen ideas to make them part of your new kitchen.

Seen a corner of glass in someone else’s extension and started dreaming about one of your own? Corner glazing can transform a room, bringing in more natural light, opening up views and creating a striking architectural feature. But getting it right takes more thought than simply adding another window.

Compared with other types of windows, corner windows are more complex and raise a few important questions. What type of glass should you choose? How will you ventilate the room? Should the glazing be fixed or opening? And how will the design affect structure, privacy and cost?

We asked the experts what you need to know before committing to a corner window, including where they work best, what to consider when specifying one and how to make the most of the light and views they can bring to a home.

What are the benefits of corner windows?

"Corner windows can completely change the feel of a room," explains Allan Reid, uPVC specialist and Founder of Art Windows and Doors. "They bring in loads of natural light and can make the most of a nice garden view, so they work particularly well in extensions, open-plan spaces and rooms that look out onto the outdoors."

Adam Randall, co-founder of Fluid Glass, agrees, adding: "Where homeowners need to bring extra light into a dark space (often the kitchen), a corner window allows light to flood in from two sides and keeps the room bright all day rather than for a couple of hours."

Expanded views are another obvious draw. "If the best bit of your garden, a big old tree or a long view sits off the corner of the room rather than straight ahead, a corner window is ideal," Adam explains. "That's why we see frequently see them on rear extensions to terraces and semis, on garden rooms, and on upstairs bedrooms."

Which types of home suit corner windows, and when should you avoid them?

Corner windows are a natural fit for contemporary new builds, where clean lines and uninterrupted glass are part and parcel of the look. But don't assume you need a brand new house to pull one off. A corner window as part of a glass extension can look just as striking on a period property, giving you a sharp contrast against a traditional façade.

Terraced and semi-detached houses are where Adam Randall sees corner windows most often, usually tucked into the back of a rear extension. These are the spaces with the most to gain – like a dining room crying out for more light or a garden room with a view worth framing.

Of course, not every property is suited to one. According to Adam, a tight urban plot "where the corner would look straight into a neighbour's property" would not be appropriate. Nor would a house where the structure can't take it without a chunky beam, or a post set back in the room. "At that point you've paid for the frameless look and lost it," he says.

Similarly, if you live in a conservation area, it's worth checking with your local planning authority or architect before you get your hopes up, as alterations like this can be restricted.

Frameless or framed corner glazing?

What to know about frameless options

The appeal of a frameless glass corner is easy to understand. “A frameless corner wins on one thing – the view – and on the right room that's worth everything,” says Adam Randall. With no post at the corner, you get the uninterrupted expanse of glass that many people picture when they think of corner glazing.

But frameless doesn't necessarily mean better. Removing the post doesn't remove the need for structural support, it just means that support has to be provided elsewhere.

“The building still needs to be supported around the glass, so the structure has to be properly planned,” says Allan Reid. This could mean steelwork or another form of support, depending on the project. The architect, structural engineer and glazing company should agree on the solution early in the design process. Leave it too late and you could end up with design changes and extra costs.

When does a framed corner make more sense?

A framed corner can be the more practical option in demanding locations. On an exposed site, such as a coastal or hilltop property, or on an upper floor, a slim post can provide the extra support needed to deal with wind loads. It can also be a better solution where the glass is particularly tall (above around 3m, for example).

There are some practical benefits, too. Framed corners are more forgiving of small differences in how the building is constructed, and replacing the glass in future is generally more straightforward

The difference in costs

Frameless glazing is typically more expensive than a framed corner of the same size and Adam suggests allowing around 30-40% more for the glazing itself.

The extra cost comes from several areas. The glass may need to be larger, thicker or laminated, with polished edges and manufactured to very tight tolerances so the two panes meet neatly at the corner. You'll also need the structural steel that replaces the post, plus a structural silicone joint between the panes.

Site access can add to the bill, too. Large fixed panes may need a crane to install them, which can be particularly costly on a terraced street if it means hiring the crane for a day and arranging a road closure.

The good news is that the extra cost isn't necessarily reflected in how the window performs once it's installed. “What doesn't cost more is living with it,” says Adam. He says to expect the “same U-values, same guarantees, and no moving parts to go wrong”.

Adam's advice when comparing quotes is simple: make sure the structural steel is included in both the frameless and framed options.

What type of glass do you need for a corner window?

According to Allan Reid, the right type of glass for your corner window will depend on your property. So, before you specify anything, he suggests thinking about how energy efficient the glass needs to be, how safe it will be and how much sun the room gets. "Things like low-emissivity coatings and safety glazing may all be worth considering," he says. "It's much better to get this right at the design stage than try to fix problems once the windows are in."

With so much glass meeting in one corner, the coating is where Adam Randall would start: "We'd always recommend solar-control glass (a neutral coating – you won't see a tint) that blocks the appropriate amount of heat," he says.

What about privacy with corner windows?

A room with glass on two sides can feel exposed, particularly if it faces a neighbour, footpath or somewhere people regularly pass by, says Allan Reid. “I’d recommend checking the view from outside as well as inside before deciding on the size and position of the glazing,” he adds. Blinds, curtains or privacy glass can help, but they may compromise the open feel you wanted, so it’s worth thinking about privacy before the work starts.

Being overlooked may be less of an issue than you expect, says Adam Randall, as corner windows are often fitted to extensions that sit forward of a neighbour’s second floor, giving the room some natural privacy. If you do need more screening, made-to-measure shutters can be fitted to corner windows. Ashley Weight, co-founder of ShuttersUp, says tier-on-tier shutters “allow views across the upper area of your window whilst maintaining privacy in the lower area”.

How do you prevent a corner window from overheating?

"Large corner windows can make a room feel bright and spacious, but you do need to think about how the room will stay cool," warns Allan. "If there's lots of glass and not much ventilation, the space can get uncomfortably hot, particularly during the summer."

Orientation is the first thing to think about. "A corner has two faces – and a south face and a west face catch the sun at different times, so the room is being loaded for longer than a single window would be," explains Adam Randall. As a general rule, north- and east-facing corners are less prone to overheating, since they get less direct, high-intensity sun than a south- or west-facing corner.

This is where the solar control glass coating discussed earlier comes back into play. Adam recommends asking your glazier for a 70/35 specification, meaning the glass lets in 70% of natural daylight but only 35% of the sun's heat, giving you a bright room without the full thermal load of an uncoated pane.

Shading inside the room is another option. Ashley Weight says closed shutters can help reduce solar heat gain, and their adjustable louvres let you control light and airflow, "helping to keep rooms cool, shaded and naturally ventilated".

Should a corner window open or stay closed?

Whether a corner window should open depends largely on the house design, the space available and how you want to use the room, says Adam Randall. The architects he works with typically specify one of three set-ups:

A fixed glass corner: Best suited to a space for relaxing and enjoying the view. It offers the best thermal and weather performance, as well as the cleanest lines.

An opening corner: This brings in light from two aspects while allowing fresh air in and, in some configurations, access to the outside. To walk out through the corner itself, however, requires a sliding door with an open-corner configuration – a door system in its own right, rather than a frameless corner that simply opens.

A combination of the two: A fixed glass corner provides the view, while a minimal sliding door elsewhere in the room provides access and ventilation.

Whichever option you choose, ventilation needs to be considered. A corner window alone won't provide the same cross-ventilation as windows on two separate walls. Adam says rear extensions often combine corner glazing with a minimal sliding door or an opening rooflight, which he says, “does more for a hot afternoon than two windows on opposite walls ever did – warm air goes up and out and pulls fresh air in behind it.”

For a fuller picture of what your project might cost, see our guide to glass extension costs, or try our extension cost calculator to get a ballpark figure for your own home.

Traditional paper-backed sandpaper has long been a DIYer's friend, and for good reason; however, I believe there's a lesser-known alternative that could change how you tackle your sanding projects in the future.

Known as mesh sandpaper, it does the same job as traditional sandpaper, but subtle design differences make it a smart choice for many DIY projects.

You can use it with an orbital sander to sand wood, a drywall sander to smooth walls, or a hand sander with a roll of cost-effective mesh sandpaper. Here, I explore the benefits, drawbacks, and where best to use it.

What is mesh sandpaper?

Mesh sandpaper is an alternative to standard paper-based sandpaper. It's essentially strands of interwoven sandpaper with an abrasive coating. It performs much like standard sandpaper, with a few key differences.

It comes in various types, which I'll come onto discuss next. And, like standard sandpaper, it comes in various shapes, sizes, and grits, so you can use it for hand sanding or with a power tool such as a random orbital sander like this Black and Decker BDCROS18 Cordless Sander from Amazon, which includes a mesh sandpaper pad.

Types of mesh sandpaper and where to buy

Different types of mesh sandpaper are available, but Mark Irving, building expert from Build & Plumb Irving, says the most common choice is standard abrasive mesh which is: “General-purpose net sheets or rolls used for woodworking, drywall, paint removal and metalworking.”

They are also available in different shapes such as circular sanding discs for orbital sanders and drywall sanders.

Mesh sandpaper is readily available from local hardware stores such as B&Q, Screwfix and Toolstation. Alternatively, you can buy it from a host of online retailers, including Amazon.

Shop for mesh sandpapers and sanders

The pros and cons of mesh sandpaper

Mesh sandpaper isn't new; it's been around for decades, although not as long as traditional sandpaper. People commonly used it to sand plaster walls and for less DIY-focused jobs, such as automotive finishing. However, as it has evolved, it has become a popular alternative for almost any DIY project. Mark Irving shares some of the pros and cons.

Pros of mesh sandpaper

+Improved dust extraction

Traditional sandpaper has a solid backing that can trap dust on the surface, whereas mesh has many tiny holes across the entire surface. When used with a sander that has a vacuum or dust extractor, it collects almost all the dust. Also, there's no need to line up the holes on sandpaper with the holes on the sander's hook-and-loop pad.

+Longer lifespan

Dust passes through the sandpaper instead of building up, causing clogging and piling. This means that a piece of mesh sandpaper can last several times longer than traditional sandpaper.

+Better quality finish

Dust is consistently being pulled away, meaning the abrasive grain of the sandpaper is fully exposed to sand cleanly. This gives a more even rate of material removal, providing a smoother finish with less risk of surface scratches.

+Reusable

If mesh sandpaper becomes clogged with fine debris, you can easily clean it to renew the abrasive rather than throwing it away which makes it better for the environment.

Cons of mesh sandpaper

-Higher cost

Mesh sanding discs typically cost more per disc than traditional sandpaper. However, their longer lifespan can offset the higher price.

-Edge snagging

The open structure of mesh means it can easily catch on sharp corners, rough grain, or exposed edges.

-Limited grit range

Abrasive mesh is often available only in medium to coarse grits and rarely comes in ultra-coarse or ultra-fine grits. However, I would say its range is perfectly acceptable for common DIY projects like paint removal and wood sanding.

One thing I would also add is that mesh sandpaper isn't the best choice for sanding by hand. Paper-backed sandpaper is easier to use, lets you get into areas mesh struggles with, and the paper helps protect your hands.

What DIY tasks do you use it for?

I recently converted to using mesh sandpaper after getting a Black & Decker cordless orbital sander that came with a circular mesh sanding disc. I liked it so much I decided to purchase more.

I've used them with my orbital sanders mainly for paint removal and sanding windows, doors, and floors, and the beauty is their reusability. They don't clog as quickly, and you can clean them and use again. Elsewhere, I used them for prepping walls and rubbing down filler.

You can also buy mesh pads (like these Trend Mesh Abrasive Detail Sanding Sheets from Amazon) for detail sanders. This allows for more intricate jobs. Effectively, you can use mesh sandpaper on most DIY projects that standard sandpaper can handle.

If you use mesh sandpaper for hand sanding, you really need a block, or one of the best hand sanders to get a good finish and avoid destroying your hands. I sometimes wear gloves as well.

How much does mesh sandpaper cost?

In general, mesh sandpaper costs more than standard sandpaper. As an example, mesh sandpaper pads for an orbital sander, like this 50 Pcs 125mm Mesh Sanding Discs 120 Grit Hook and Loop Net Sandpaper from Amazon, cost £24. A similar set of paper-based sanding pads, like these 120 Grit Sanding Discs 50 Pcs from Amazon, costs around £10.

However, you can find cheaper mesh sandpaper, like this ProDec Advance 5m Roll 120 Grit Sanding Mesh Roll from Amazon, which costs around £5. Obviously, this is best for hand sanding or specific sanders, but not random orbital sanders with circular pads.

When not to use mesh sandpaper

While mesh sandpaper brings with it plenty of benefits, it's not always the best choice for some sanding jobs. These will often be similar jobs that standard sandpaper isn't good at tackling. One obvious downside is surfaces with exposed nail heads. As soon as the protruding head of a nail (or similar) catches the mesh, it instantly tears it.

Beyond the obvious, Mark Irving notes a few other details: "Smaller features or edges smaller than half a centimetre lack enough surface contact area for the mesh to sand effectively.” He adds, “It also lacks the solid backing necessary for effective wet slurry removal on rough metal.”

Also, if you use it on a hook-and-loop system, it needs a backing to protect the pad. Most pre-cut pads for orbital sanders will have this in place, but rolls often won't. To protect a hook-and-loop pad, you will need a pad saver like this Trend 125 mm Pad Saver for Random Orbital Sanders from Amazon.

Add mesh sandpaper to your DIY toolkit to tackle a wide range of project such as learning how to build pantry shelves, or for more renovation tasks, find out what experts recommend for sanding stairs.

You've done the research, found out where you can buy your legally-approved plug-in solar panels and now it's just a case of waiting for them to be delivered.

But where are you going to put them? If you're keen to keep the outdoor space at the back of your home free for family use, you might be considering your front garden instead.

However, it's worth reading this advice first as it might not be quite as practical as you think. From planning to safety, here are the three main things you need to consider.

1. Planning rules may make your front garden unsuitable

Although adding plug-in solar panels to your home will generally fall under permitted development (PD), there are exceptions. Timber surfaces change the rules, and with guidance around sizes, boundaries, flat dwellers and types of property all needing consideration too, it's vital you understand what is and isn't allowed when it comes to front garden placement.

Height, elevations and boundaries all matter

While one of the issues regarding plug-in solar panels in front gardens is their impact on the property and surrounding area, there are also height limits that must be adhered to, as Simon Rix, director and founder of Planix.uk Planning Consultants and regular planning columnist for Homebuilding & Renovating explains.

"While plug-in solar arrays offer an accessible route to generating micro-renewables, placing them in a front garden brings strict statutory limits into play. Under permitted development rules, ground-mounted equipment installed forward of the principal elevation must not exceed one metre in height if positioned within five metres of any boundary.

"Given that most front gardens are relatively compact, keeping a portable array under that one-metre threshold while ensuring it catches sufficient sunlight without triggering a need for full planning permission can be a real balancing act," says Simon.

So, "while permitted development technically allows standalone solar up to four metres high in rear or side gardens (provided it is more than five metres from a boundary), in a typical front garden setting where space is constrained and highway proximity is a factor, a four-metre high array would almost never comply without formal planning permission."

And, if you live in a conservation area, your front garden will likely never be an option he continues. "In designated Conservation Areas or Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONBs), permitted development rights for solar installed forward of the principal elevation facing a highway are usually restricted or removed altogether."

Flat-dwellers face a hard no for front garden installation

Those ground-floor flat owners hoping to reduce their energy bills with plug-in solar also need to reconsider their plans if a front garden is their only outdoor space, warns Simon Rix.

"Flat dwellers and homeowners in protected areas face a much tougher hurdle. Permitted development rights for standalone solar generally do not extend to flats, and in Conservation Areas, placing equipment closer to the public highway than the main building almost always requires formal planning permission.

"Before setting up a plug-in panel out front, residents should check whether their property retains its permitted development rights or if local Article 4 directions apply, as visible front-of-house additions are closely scrutinised by local planning authorities. I recommend asking a planning consultant about this," recommends Simon, "as we will know the specific rules for your location."

2. Safety and security make the front garden less practical

Let's say you do have space to put your plug-in solar panels in your front garden without breaking planning rules. It then comes down to questions of safety and practicality.

While it may seem better to locate them where there's less opportunity for them to be damaged by children playing, or inquisitive pets, your front garden nonetheless is the main entry and exit point for every visitor to your home.

From invited to uninvited guests, everyone will see your plug-in solar panels. And, while their temporary nature is what makes them more practical for some homes, the very fact they are moveable makes them an easy target for anyone looking to steal them.

Given home insurance rules relating to plug-in solar panels are also likely to change as providers watch how this new tech is adopted and used, it's easy to imagine how you may also find yourself with increased premiums if a front garden location is deemed as more 'risky.'

Home security may need to be altered or even certain types of approved and secure mounts may become mandatory.

Location of plug sockets

There's also the issue of electrics and plug sockets to take into account in your front garden. Plug-in solar panels must be plugged directly into an appropriate socket that's wired into your main electrical system. Extension leads are not suitable, and neither is running a plug through a window indoors.

So if you don't have a fully waterproof external plug socket installed on the front of your home, it's another expense you might have to account for on top of the cost of your plug-in solar panels.

Shop for plug-in solar panels

3. Will plug-in solar damage your kerb appeal or annoy your neighbours?

And last, but certainly not least, there's the important issue of kerb appeal and how your neighbours feel about plug-in solar panels in your front garden.

Even though they may be temporary, there's no questioning the impact plug-in solar panels in a front garden will have on the look and feel of your home – particularly during this early adoption stage where panels are often larger than expected. You can't cover them – they need daylight to work, and while you may be able to position them in such a way that you could try placing some screening plants around them, they still need to be accessible for cleaning and maintenance.

But what about your neighbours? What grounds do they have to complain if your solar panels go in your front garden? Or, what if you find yourself on the opposite side of the fence so to speak, and are concerned your neighbour's new plug-in solar panels are breaching the rules?

“The best advice if you are not happy with a solar installation in your neighbour’s garden is to report the matter in the first instance to the local planning department," advises Joe Pepper, partner at Bridge McFarland LLP.

"The planning officers will be able to assess if the solar installation is lawful under current rules at no cost to you. Failing that it might possible that a new solar installation is being built in breach of covenants (private restrictions affecting land use) but investigating and potentially enforcing covenants if you have a right to do so is a much more expensive and complicated process.”

What is important to recognise is that if you, or your neighbour has adhered to the rules, there are no grounds to complain purely on the grounds of aesthetics.

Realising your front garden is not the place for your plug-in solar panels? Try these front garden ideas for inspiration instead, and why not give your front door a makeover at the same time using the best front door paint to boost your kerb appeal.

I used to dread it when it came time to clean my windows. I found myself waiting for something to go wrong, whether it was ending up with a streaky finish or finding that somehow after cleaning them the glass managed to attract even more dust and debris than before.

With summer coming to a close, now’s the perfect time to give all types of windows a good wipe down to remove pollen and dirt accumulated from frequent use. But to help you tackle the task with confidence, I talked to an assortment of professionals in cleaning and window craftsmanship to learn the best techniques for a job well done – as well as the methods to avoid.

Read on to find out all you need to know, and who knows? Maybe the chore will feel less like a woe and more like a win from this moment on.

1. Squeegee and soapy water

You've probably heard about using a squeegee and warm soapy water to clean windows before, but you might not understand why this simple technique is among the most effective.

As Mark Caulfield, director of Glass House Architecture, explains: "Using a squeegee and soapy water to clean your windows is a classic for good reason. It's ideal for cleaning big panes of glass in a fast manner due to the squeegee's large flat edge, resulting in less chance of drying marks appearing."

The squeegee is also great at removing water from the surface of your windows, ensuring damp doesn't remain which can develop into mould later down the line. However, Mark also notes that getting to the edges of your window with the squeegee could prove more difficult. Wiping those gently with a cloth like the MR.SIGA Cleaning Cloths from Amazon may be necessary.

This method is ideal for all kinds of windows, whether indoors or outdoors. Though a curved squeegee like the Vikan Wipe-N-Shine from Amazon would be better suited for circular windows.

2. A microfibre cloth

The humble microfibre cloth is such a household staple when it comes to cleaning anything - including windows. Though it isn't always the most efficient method, and there is a knack to getting it right.

Michael Bogoyavlenskiy, CEO of Cleaning Express, says: "Window cleaning doesn’t need to be a complicated job, and it doesn’t need to involve expensive tools. A damp microfibre cloth that's lint-free is all you need to get the windows sparkling."

For the best results, Michael recommends using two cloths - one to wash your windows and another to get them dry. Though he has another special trick up his sleeve to ensure your panes remain crystal clear.

"A useful tip if you’re cleaning your own windows and you’re doing both inside and out is to wipe the window in different directions on each face. For example, use circular motions inside and horizontal/S-shape movements outside. This will help you to tell which side has any streaks left once you’re done cleaning."

Shop for window cleaning essentials

3. Use an extendable mop

If you're cleaning windows which are high up on the walls or panes on the ceiling such as a skylight, opting to clean them using a mop like the JEHONN Long Handle Mop from Amazon is a great choice. Not only will the extendable handle make reaching your high up windows far easier, but the rod will give you more control when it comes to getting the windows clean.

Michael Bogoyavlenskiy explains: "A Swiffer-style mop on a long stick is effective for cleaning high up windows for a reasonably affordable price. You can always get up on a ladder to touch up any final cleaning, but most modern window cleaners opt for using a brush on an extendable stick."

Make sure your mop isn't soaking wet with too much soapy water though as otherwise it'll start dripping down on top of you while you're cleaning! Don't forget to go back in with a dry mop head to avoid leaving water marks on your window panes, too.

4. Steam cleaning

Steam cleaning has revolutionised how people get their homes in tip top form. It's suitable for addressing so many mucky surfaces, including glass.

Mark Caulfield says: "Steam cleaners are great for cleaning windows, especially windows in the kitchen which may have accumulated extra grease and grime. However, they still need a cloth wiped over them afterwards to avoid leaving water marks."

Steam cleaning works by using heat and water vapour to melt grease and loosen dirt from the panes and edges of your windows. It's a great choice for cleaning windows within easy reach. But if you're hoping to get your skylight or other high up windows such as kitchen roof lanterns or clerestory windows sparkling, it might not be easy to climb up to reach them while carrying a steam cleaning device.

If you live in a consistently cold climate, Mark doesn't recommend steam cleaning despite it being a very impactful technique. The combination of steam on cold glass can lead to cracking if outdoor temperatures are below freezing - so be mindful!

5. Use a water fed pole

Before chatting to Mark Caulfield I had not previously heard of a water fed pole. But now I've learned more about them I can totally see why they're a great fit for high up windows and glass roofs.

"Water fed poles with purified water are becoming more and more popular among window cleaners," shares Mark. "They leave behind no marks and you don't even need a ladder to use them. However, they can be on the pricey side."

A water fed pole like the IGADPile from Amazon is rather like a cleaning brush or mop. The key difference is that water feeds down the telescopic handle (the pole) into the brush, producing a stream of water out of the brush head. This is incredibly handy for dirty, dusty windows that needs plenty of clean water to budge their grime. Though it's still recommended where possible to use a dry mop head to wipe away surplus water to prevent water marks from developing.

FAQs

Are there any methods that I should avoid?

Mark Caulfield strongly recommends avoiding cleaning or drying your windows using newspaper because newspaper today is made from different materials to in the past.

He shared: "Using newspaper to clean areas such as windows is an old trick, but I'd avoid doing it nowadays. It worked in the past because the ink of newsprint was oil based. Now it will just result in smudges."

What should I do if my windows are super dirty?

If cleaning your windows has become a bothersome, impossible chore, Michael Bogoyavlenskiy recommends getting professional help as a one off.

He explains: "If your windows are really dirty, pay a professional to do it the first time so you can then just maintain the clean yourself!"

For more expert cleaning advice, check out our guides to cleaning shower screens (another glass area in your home), and if you have a glass conservatory, here's what's recommended for getting your conservatory roof gleaming.

Choosing the best hedging plants for your garden landscaping design is a key decision. Hedges can resemble green walls, carefully tended and evenly trimmed, or they can be deliberately untamed and informal, offering texture and colour.

They can provide much-needed privacy, shelter in an exposed spot, or act as sound-proof barrier near a busy road. Thorny or spiny hedges are also a good deterrent against intruders, while other varieties offer a habitat for wildlife.

Whether you're looking for an alternative to garden fencing or you simply want to green up your garden boundaries, there are plenty of hedging plants that will suit your needs and plot, and we've selected 12 of the best options for UK gardens.

1. Laurel 

There are many plants in the Laurel family, but one of the best for hedging is the cherry laurel. It is one of the best screening plants as it's an evergreen, with neat, glossy, rounded leaves that form a dense screen. This can help with noise reduction, and it performs as an effective wind break too.

It has been rated as the UK’s most popular landscape and garden shrub, partly due to the fact that it is so low maintenance and will grow in full sun or in shady areas. All it needs is a trim once a year, in late winter or early spring (twice a year if you prefer a more formal look).

It's also one of the best fast growing hedges, with a growth rate of around 30-60cm a year, and the final height is 5m, but it is easy to contain and can be trimmed back as hard as you like.

2. Thuja

This evergreen conifer has fan-like sprays of thick, bushy leaves. It grows at a rate of 75cm a year, offering fast coverage, so it is ideal if you are in urgent need of some garden privacy.

There are lots of different varieties, but Thuja plicata is an excellent choice. It has foliage all year round, with green leaves in spring and coppery shades in the autumn. Keep it watered during spring and summer, and add a mulch in winter to lock in moisture.

Add a general purpose feed in the spring, and keep on top of pruning so the hedge doesn’t get out of control. Early autumn is the best time for this.

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3. Bamboo

If you're looking for one of the best hedging plants for a modern garden, then bamboo is a good option. The upright canes with their elegant, rustling foliage create the perfect informal boundary, and you can expect them to grow around 75cm in a year.

The downside of these lofty plants is that they can be invasive, and intrude into neighbouring gardens. Choose a clump forming bamboo, such as phyllostachys viridiglaucescens or an umbrella variety such as fargesia murielae, which are less thuggish.

Plant in spring or summer into rich soil, and keep well-watered. If the bamboo gets too tall, it will stand a brutal chop back, and the old canes can be removed in the spring. They will reach up to 5m tall, so they can create a highly effective screening barrier.

If, however, you're keen to replace bamboo with something else, follow the expert tips on how to remove bamboo in our dedicated guide.

4. Phillyrea Angustifolia 

Neat and tidy Phillyrea Angustifolia (available at Thompson & Morgan), also known as Jasmine box, is an evergreen shrub with dark narrow green leaves. The experts at Squires Garden Centres recommend it as one of their best hedging plants for ease and versatility.

It provides small clusters of fragrant cream flowers from late spring to early summer. It is a good alternative to classic box, but it will not suffer from box blight, a fungal disease which is now widespread in some areas of the UK.

Plant in full sun or partial sun in a moist well-drained soil. It is hardy and will tolerate severe winters. The ultimate height is 2.5-4m and the spread 1.5-2.5m. Trim back in late winter or early spring.

5. Rosa glauca

If you're on the lookout for small garden ideas and need a hedging plant to suit, this pretty flowering hedge is a good choice.

In small spaces, every plant has to work hard for its keep, and Rosa glauca, also referred to as Red Leaf Rose and available from Thompson & Morgan, offers pretty pink blooms in summer and red, cherry-like hips in the autumn. It makes a lovely informal barrier, with blue green foliage on reddish stems.

Suitable for most soil types, it’s a hardy plant, which will thrive in coastal areas, windy conditions and frost pockets.

Plant it as a bare root, between October and April in full sun or part shade. It will grow up to 3m tall, but it can be pruned back after flowering. It has gained the RHS Order of Merit for being attractive and easy to grow.

6. Box

A box hedge works well in all size gardens, but it’s well suited to smaller spaces as it is compact with small leaves, slow growing and very easy to clip to size. It works as a low, formal hedge or as garden edging for borders or garden paths.

It should be clipped twice a year, in early and late summer. The only downside is that it can be prone to box blight. If the leaves develop brown spots, it is likely to be blight: there is little in the way of effective treatment and it usually has to be removed.

Shop for garden tools to maintain your hedging plants

7. Hornbeam

This plant makes an elegant, even hedge, and it suits a long sweep of land and a more formal looking garden. Although it is deciduous, the foliage changes colour but then stays on the branches over winter, so can be a suitable choice if you're looking for year-round garden screening planting.

A moderately fast grower, hornbeam (available at Crocus) will increase in height by 20-40cm each year. It can also be pruned into shape, in late spring and again in early August. It's best to plant it in the autumn.

8. Western Hemlock

This is an evergreen conifer which creates a tall, dense hedge. Its size, up to a whopping 30m tall, means that it’s best planted in very large gardens only. The branches have leaves that resemble needles, and green cones which turn brown in the autumn.

Keep it under control with a hard trim in early autumn. This is one of the hardiest evergreen hedges and will cope with shady conditions and extreme weather conditions.

9. Photinia X Fraseri ‘Louise’ 

The experts at Squires recommend this hedging plant for its interesting foliage. Although evergreen, the colours subtly change, turning from red to olive green with pink margins, then mature to dark grey-green with creamy-white edges. Cream spring flowers are followed by red fruits.

Plant Photinia X Fraseri ‘Louise’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) in sun or partial shade in moist well-drained soil. The ultimate height and spread is 4m.

10. Yew

This dense, bushy shade-loving evergreen is a classic option for using planting to zone your garden, as it can help to define different spaces in your plot. It has tiny needle-like green leaves and red berries in the autumn.

It lends itself to clipping neatly into shape, and this should be done in spring or summer. It will grow up to 15m tall, so it needs to be closely monitored. The downside is that all parts of the plant are toxic, so it best avoided in spaces shared with young children and animals.

Wondering what other plants are toxic to pets? Take a look at these dog-friendly garden ideas to make sure your outdoor space is habitable for all the family.

11. Pyracantha ‘Mohave’

If you've been looking into types of fences, but would prefer something a little more natural looking than a solid wooden fence, this evergreen shrub is ideal. It's good for adding privacy, security and soundproofing to any plot. It has small, dense green leaves and spiky upright stems. Seasonal interest is provided with white flowers in early summer and clusters of vivid red berries after that.

For a wilder, more informal look, which will deter intruders, leave the hedge to grow undisturbed, or, if you prefer a neat boundary, cut it to shape in spring and late summer. It prefers moist, well-drained soil, and when it is established, it can put on up to 60cm of growth a year.

12. Privet

Only the harshest of winters will cause privet to lose its neat green leaves, so it’s a reliable choice for any hedge. It's also one of the best hedging plants for an urban garden as it will tolerate high pollution levels.

There are two species of privet: garden privet (Ligustrum ovafolium) and wild privet (Ligustrum vulgare). Wild privet is native to the UK, whereas garden privet originated in Japan. They are hard to tell apart, but wild privet is a better option for wildlife gardens.

Fast growing, dense, and easy to keep in shape, privet will thrive almost anywhere. However, it does need to be regularly watered during the first two years after planting. Bear in mind that the berries are toxic.

Ligustrum vulgare 'Liga' is available from Suttons and offers vibrant flowers and berries.

FAQs

How do you plant a hedge?

Ready to plant your chosen hedging plants? Here's what you need to do.

1. Thoroughly prepare the ground before planting a hedge. Weed it thoroughly, six weeks before planting, and then again just before you put in the plants.
2. Dig some well-rotted compost into a trench, which should be wider and deeper than the roots of the hedge plant.
3. Check the plant label for spacing advice, as hedging plants vary widely depending on the variety. Laurel needs wide spacing at about 60cm, whereas privet is best planted with four plants per metre, for example.
4. Spread out the roots, and plant at the correct depth. As a guide, the point where the roots meet the stem of the hedge plant should be level with the soil.
5. Backfill the hole using the soil you originally dug out, adding in some compost more compost or other organic if required.
6. Water well after planting, particularly if the soil is very dry.

What's the cheapest way to plant a hedge? 

The most economical way to plant a hedge is to buy bare root plants. These are available from online nurseries and garden centres between October and March. Container grown plants give a head start, but they will cost more. Bare root plants should be planted as soon as possible after purchase.

Should you water a hedge?

It is important to water a hedge regularly after planting it. The experts at Suttons suggest that when a bare root hedge has been planted: "give it two to four litres per plant, depending on its size." They add: "Continue to soak your plants, roughly twice a week, applying water directly to the soil rather than the leaves."

What time of year should you prune a hedge?

When and how much to prune a hedge depends on the variety you have planted. The team at Suttons advise: "pruning is very much species-dependent, as certain species should be pruned immediately after planting, whereas others should be left until later in the year. There are also certain species which should not be pruned until they have reached their desired height."

it's also always best to avoid disturbing hedges during birds’ nesting season, which typically runs throughout spring and summer.

Before choosing a hedging plant, it’s a good idea to make a list of the functions you would like it to perform, and then find a plant which matches these needs.

There are a few pitfalls to watch for. Check to make sure that you are not planting a hedge that will grow too large for the space you have, or whose roots may disturb shared drainage or utilities. Hedges are a notorious cause of neighbour disputes. If you have inherited a hedge that seems to be out of control, research when it might be the best to cut it back, as this varies from species to species.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Despite not being able to buy plug-in solar panels myself as I live in a first-floor flat with no outdoor space, I've been looking into them for months now as part of my job. As a result, I've learnt some key facts I think are worth sharing.

It's easy to jump on the bandwagon, assuming that as they are only a plug-in item you won't have any problem installing them, but cut through the noise and it's clear they aren't for everyone.

From planning rules to plug sockets, here's what you need to consider before you hand over your hard-earned cash for plug-in solar panels.

1. Mounting plug-in solar on timber will require planning permission

Although legally certified plug-in solar panels shouldn't be a risk to your home, where you mount them is still subject to restrictions.

Permitted development is often sufficient for solar panels, including plug-in ones, but since they have been legalised, the Town and Country Planning Act has been updated to reflect some new conditions. It now states that it does not apply: "in the case of plug-in solar, where any part of the plug-in solar would be installed on a wooden wall, balcony or enclosure or on any part of the exterior of a dwellinghouse where that part is clad in timber."

And it's for good reason too, explains Jon Skinner, founder of home energy company Glow Homes. “A sunny garden fence might look like the perfect home for a solar panel, but that does not mean it is safe or permitted. Timber cladding, timber balconies and other wooden surfaces can present fire, structural and planning issues, so this is not the place for a weekend DIY experiment.

“The mounting system is just as important as the panel," he continues, it must be designed for that particular product and capable of dealing with years of rain, frost and strong winds. If your plan involves spare brackets, a few screws from the shed and crossed fingers, stop and get proper advice.”

And, if your garden wall forms part of your boundary, there's also a risk you could face neighbour disputes if your panels cause a disturbance or damage to your wall – something every homeowner would rather avoid.

2. Rooftop solar and plug-in solar are not pieces of Lego

Think you can boost your energy efficiency and add some floor-mounted plug-in solar panels to your garden, as well as benefiting from the ones on your roof? Don't bother say experts – for several reasons.

“If you already have rooftop solar panels, you cannot assume that you can simply plug in another panel and carry on. Solar systems are not pieces of Lego. Your existing installation is already generating electricity and interacting with both the house and the wider network," explains Jon Skinner.

“Speak to your original installer and local network operator before spending any money. Plug-in solar is primarily designed to open the door for households that cannot have a conventional rooftop system, not as a casual bolt-on for homes that already have one," he expands.

How will anyone know? Even though plug-in panels are a temporary, rather than permanent fixture, you're still legally bound to report them to your local Distribution Network Operator (DNO). If you aren't sure how to do this, then going with an existing energy supplier, such as the plug-in panels being offered by Octopus might be a good idea as they can help guide you through the process.

3. Don't underestimate the size of the panels

While you can't try plug-in solar before you buy, you should absolutely size before you buy them as some models are bigger than you might expect. How do I know given I can't have them? When our content editor, Megan Milstead, was sent some to review, the photo she shared of them unpacked in her living room was met with gasps from myself and the rest of the team.

When the new technology was first announced, many referred to it as balcony solar, meaning it's perhaps easy to understand the confusion.

“People hear ‘plug-in’ or ‘balcony solar’ and picture something the size of a laptop," picks up Jon Skinner. "In reality, some products use panels much closer in size to those seen on rooftops. That can be quite a shock when a very large box arrives at the front door.

“Measure the space, the access route and the panel itself," he recommends. "Then consider whether you can position and secure it without blocking doors, windows or escape routes. A panel that technically fits but takes over half of a small garden is not a sensible installation."

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4. The socket you plug into matters more than you think

Plug-in solar panels work in a similar way to rooftop solar but differ in that they come with a micro solar inverter which allows you to plug them directly into a socket. Phil Steele, future technologies evangelist at Octopus Energy explains more.

"The panels generate DC (direct current) electricity from sunlight. A micro-inverter then converts this into AC (alternating current) electricity – the type of electricity used by households and the electricity grid.

"The system automatically synchronises with the household’s electricity supply. Customers plug the system into a standard three-pin socket, and the electricity then flows into the home’s electrical circuit to help power appliances like fridges or TVs."

However, the type of socket you plug into holds a lot of importance.

“If the supplied cable does not reach the socket, an extension lead is not the answer," starts Jon Skinner. "Plug-in solar must use the manufacturer-supplied plug and connect directly to a suitable socket. Multi-way adaptors, travel adaptors and improvised cable arrangements are also out.

“For an outdoor connection, both the plug and outdoor socket need the correct protection against the British weather. If the right socket is not already in the right place, ask an electrician to install or assess one. Moving the socket is safer than trying to stretch the solar system towards it,” he advises.

Secondly, make sure that socket isn't old as well, adds Jon. “The solar technology may be brand new, but the socket it is connected to could be decades old. A loose, cracked, discoloured or damaged socket needs attention before a plug-in solar system goes anywhere near it," he warns.

“If you have older wiring, an ageing consumer unit or any uncertainty about the electrical condition of the property, get an electrician to take a look. Plug-in solar is meant to make generating electricity simpler. It does not make tired household wiring young again.”

5. Don't view them as a stand-alone energy source

Any energy savings you can make are of course a bonus, but as Jon Skinner states, you should think of plug-in solar panels as a gateway introduction, rather than a one-stop solution.

"Plug-in solar panels are a bit like using an umbrella during a rain shower: they are useful, affordable and accessible, but should not be mistaken for a permanent solution. An umbrella works. It keeps most of the rain off you, it is affordable and you can use it immediately. But you wouldn’t mistake it for properly weatherproofing your house," he expands.

“Plug-in solar is similar. It can be genuinely useful in its own right and a very good introduction to renewable energy, but it isn’t the same as designing permanent energy infrastructure around a home.

“The important thing is that we don’t confuse an introduction to solar with a complete long-term home energy system," he continues. "Both can have value, but they serve different purposes.”

Jon Skinner's final advice? A UK plug is not a UK safety certificate to installing plug-in solar panels without any comeback.

“Homeowners will inevitably find cheap plug-in solar kits on overseas marketplaces, but the presence of a three-pin plug does not prove that the system is approved for use in Britain. Look for clear UK compliance information, proper instructions and an approved, type-tested inverter so that you buy legally approved plug-in solar panels.

“This is a small power station connected directly to your home’s electrical system. Saving a little money on an unverified product is a poor trade if the instructions are vague, the certification cannot be checked or the seller disappears the moment something goes wrong," he warns. And, when the rules surrounding plug-in solar and home insurance are also yet to be completely defined, it's wise to start on the right foot so you don't encounter any problems in the future.

It's easy to overlook something as common as condensation, but according to air quality experts, it could be one of the first signs of autumn damp, which can escalate into bigger problems if left unaddressed.

Autumn is the best time to get on top of these issues before the cold, wet winter weather sets in and makes the problems worse, potentially leading to mould growth and damp patches spreading.

Below, we asked the experts about the most common early signs of damp that start to appear in autumn and how they can be treated before winter arrives.

1. Condensation

The problem: While condensation is very common in UK homes, it may indicate an underlying problem if you reguarly wake up to wet windows and pools of water running onto your sill.

The fix: Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco, says the easiest fix is to improve your ventillation – whether that’s by using extractor fans when you’re showering or cooking, opening trickle vents if you have them, or avoiding drying wet clothes in unventilated rooms.

"I’d also wipe away any standing water rather than letting it sit around the window frame," he says. You can do this by using one of the best window vacs, like the one below.

2. Musty smells

The problem: "Sometimes you can smell a damp problem before you can see it," says Marjan Kola, Trade Group Manager at Aspect.

He says to watch out for musty or earthy smells around large wardrobes, sofas and beds in particular – especially if you have pushed them tightly against an external wall. The lack of airflow can cause these areas to become cooler and moisture to linger.

The fix: Marjan recommends checking for condensation or moisture behind large pieces of furniture and wiping it dry if you find any. To improve airflow, move furniture slightly away from the wall and ensure you ventilate the room regularly so excess moisture can escape.

"If the area continues to feel damp or the musty smell keeps returning, investigate whether there could be another source of moisture rather than assuming poor airflow is the only cause," he adds.

3. Black spots

The problem: Small black spots around your window frames, in ceiling corners, or behind furniture might not seem like a big deal, but Michael Zahouri warns that it could develop into a bigger mould problem when the autumn weather gets colder.

The fix: "I’d clean it when you first notice it, but the important part is working out why it appeared," he says. "If that area is regularly covered in condensation, you need to tackle the humidity and ventilation rather than repeatedly cleaning the mould."

4. Peeling or bubbling walls

The problem: Noticed your paint or wallpaper starting to bubble or lifting at the edges? "This could be an early sign that moisture is getting into or is sitting on the wall," warns Michael Zahouri.

The fix: It might be tempting to slap on another layer of paint or mask it behind more wallpaper, but Michael says the problem will only come back further down the line. Instead, you'll need to tackle the moisture source first and let the area dry properly.

5. Staining that appears or worsens after rain

The problem: If your walls or ceilings have brown or yellow stains, Marjan Kola warns that water may be entering your home from the outside. Pay close attention if these stains appear, darken, or spread after heavy rain.

The fix: "The priority is to find where rainwater is getting in and stop it at the source. During or just after rainfall, look from ground level for overflowing gutters, water running down external walls, damaged pointing, cracks or other obvious areas where water isn't being directed away from the property as it should be," he says.

"Don't wait for the stain to dry and assume the problem has gone away. If you can't identify where the water is entering, have it investigated. Leave anything requiring ladders or roof access to a professional."

6. Cold or damp patches on walls

The problem: "If one section of walls feels colder or damper than the rest, it could be condensation forming on a cold spot or water getting in from outside," says Michael Zahouri.

The fix: To find out where the moisture is coming from, he recommends checking what's on the other side of the wall, keeping an eye out for overflowing gutters, damaged seals, cracks or anything else that could be letting water in.

"The main thing is to act when the signs are small. Once you’re dealing with widespread mould, the problem is usually much harder and more expensive to put right," concludes Michael Zahouri.

If you found this helpful, read our guide on what causes damp in a house and how to treat damp in older houses.

As September starts drawing to an end, the thought of switching my central heating back on for the first time in months sends shivers down my spine (and not just because it means it's getting cooler). I know exactly what that first bill is going to look like once the whole system is running for months on end.

My home office is the room I'm most anxious about. It's a small space with one slow radiator, and I'm in there five days a week, often for eight hours at a stretch. Heating the entire house just so one room reaches a comfortable working temperature has always felt wasteful. So before I turn the whole system back on this year, I wanted to test a simple idea: could a portable electric heater do the job instead, just for my office, and save me money in the process?

On paper it sounds like an easy win. In practice, it's more complicated than that. So rather than guess, I asked heating engineers and energy experts a straight question: is a portable heater ever a genuine replacement for central heating in one room, and what are the catches nobody mentions before you buy one?

Is it cheaper to use a portable heater than central heating for one room?

This is the question I most wanted answered, but it's not as straightforward as I'd first hoped.

"Electricity costs roughly three to four times more per unit than gas," explains George Penny, heating expert at The Solar Co. "Based on Ofgem's October to December 2026 price-cap rates, running a 2kW fan heater for five hours costs around £2.63 a day, compared with roughly 89p for the same heat from a modern gas boiler. Across a 92-day winter period, that's a difference of around £160." That figure alone nearly put me off the whole idea.

The maths changes though if you're heating one room instead of an empty house, which is exactly my situation. Ben Rawson, heating expert at Electric Radiators Direct, pointed me to a lower-wattage option better suited to a home office. "Running a lower-watt electric heater (500W) for four hours a day costs £1.04," he told me. "That's considerably less than it would cost to run the central heating over the same period." That was closer to the number I'd been hoping for.

So the answer, I realised, depends entirely on wattage and hours used. A 2kW heater running all day would be a false economy for me, but a low-wattage heater used only while I'm actually in the room looks far more promising. I checked my own central heating running costs per hour to see how the numbers stacked up against my heater, and the comparison was enough to convince me to keep testing the device rather than send it back.

When is a portable heater a sensible replacement, and when isn't it?

Having the numbers in front of me was reassuring, but what I actually needed to know was whether my specific setup made sense for using a portable heater over central heating.

Ben Rawson thinks a home office is one of the better use cases: "If you have a separate home office, you won't need to warm your bedrooms and other living spaces during the day while you work," he told me. "Having a portable heater in your working space means you can leave your central heating thermostat alone and focus on heating the specific area you'll be spending most of your time in. This is also known as zoned heating."

Matthew Powell, founder of WarmZilla, agreed in principle, but suggested checking whether I needed a portable heater at all. "Before committing, check what your existing heating controls can achieve, because suitable zoning may let you heat the room economically," he explains. The best way to achieve this might be through smart heating controls, like a smart thermostat or thermostatic radiator valves on individual rooms, rather than buying a separate appliance.

He also added a word of caution about relying solely on a plug-in heat source: "The arrangement becomes less convincing when the room loses heat quickly or other household members also need warm rooms."

That gave me pause for thought. My office is toasty enough while the electric heater is running, but single glazing and uninsulated stone walls mean the chill creeps back in fast once it's switched off, which isn't exactly the self-sufficient heating solution I'd pictured.

What type of heater suits a home office?

I'd already acquired a portable heater in the form of the Electrolux 2kW Digital Eco Oil-Free Radiator with Remote Control, so I wanted to know from the experts whether I'd picked well, or just picked what looked nice online.

Ben Rawson explained that "dry thermal electric radiators are usually branded as 'oil-free' as they use aluminium heating elements instead of liquid. This makes them highly responsive, reaching temperatures quickly for effective warmth. Plus, they're also really light and super practical for a smaller home office." That matched what I'd noticed already: mine heats up fast and is easy to move around if I want it nearer my desk on colder days.

Matthew Powell and Ben both agreed that traditional oil-filled radiators were arguably the strongest option for long desk sessions – as they're slower to warm up but hold heat particularly well after switching off. The experts also agreed that ceramic heaters were a fast way to heat a room, and infrared heaters were ideal for spot-heating one person rather than the whole space. Fan heaters were the only type of emitter nobody rated for a full working day, as they're too noisy and too quick to lose heat once off.

So while there are several types of radiator that would have worked, the oil-free model I'd already chosen turned out to be a solid pick.

The downsides to using a portable heater over central heating

My oil-free radiator had passed the cost and suitability test, but I still wanted to know if there were any possible downsides to relying on it to heat my home office.

Matthew Powell was blunt about the main risk. "The concern is allowing the rest of the house to become persistently cold while keeping one room comfortable," he told me. "Moisture from everyday living can condense on colder surfaces, particularly in rooms with poor ventilation, increasing the risk of mould."

Ben Gallizzi, energy expert at Uswitch, made the same point from a different angle. "Heating a single room does not necessarily address the temperature of the rest of the property," he said. "Relying on one heater as the only source of heat may leave other rooms colder than intended."

Neither of them told me to stop using the heater, but I am going to start opening a window for a few minutes each day, and I won't be switching the central heating off in the rest of the house entirely, just turning it down.

My final plan for staying warm without sacrificing other rooms

From the experts I spoke to, it's clear that a portable heater can save you money in a home office, but only in fairly specific conditions: you're the only person using it, the room is reasonably well-insulated, and you're not leaving it running all day out of habit.

For my own office, with its single glazing and uninsulated stone walls, that verdict comes with a caveat. The heater keeps me warm while I'm working, but I'm not switching off the central heating for the rest of the house, and I'll be keeping an eye on the room for any early signs of damp. It's a solid cost-saver for the right room – mine just isn't quite that room yet.

FAQs

Is it safe to leave a portable heater on all day in a home office?

Not unattended, according to every expert I spoke to. Ben Rawson was clear that heaters "should not be left running or unattended for long periods," and George Penny made the same point about keeping heaters away from anything flammable and switching them off whenever I leave the room. I've started turning mine off during lunch and at the end of the working day, rather than leaving it running from 9am to 5pm.

Will using a portable heater show up on my smart meter?

It should, and it's worth checking. A 2kW heater running for several hours a day is a noticeable, steady draw compared with the shorter bursts of a boiler cycling on and off, so if you have a smart meter, keeping an eye on it for a week is the easiest way to see what your own heater is actually costing you, rather than relying on averages.

Can I use a portable heater instead of central heating for more than one room?

Not sensibly, based on what I was told. Every expert I spoke to described this as a single-room solution at best. Once you're trying to heat more than one space, or a large or poorly insulated room, the running costs and the damp risk both increase, and central heating becomes the more sensible option again.

When you finally do decide it's time to turn the heating back on, it's worth running through this autumn central heating checklist to make sure everything's up to standard first. It only takes a few minutes, but catching a problem now is far better than discovering it on the first freezing night of the year.

Wondering whether compost or topsoil is best for your garden? If you've been planning a new garden flowerbed, you may be after some simple clarification between the two.

It's understandable why you might be scratching your head over the matter too. They're both brown and earthy, can be bought from the garden centres in bags, and are used for growing plants. In fact, even if you dabble in your own DIY composting, you might be unsure of how exactly to use it and when to use topsoil instead.

Knowing the differences, and the best ways to use them, gives you a much better chance of successful gardening and might even cost you less. So, to clear up any confusion once and for all, we've brought together everything you need to know when it comes to compost vs topsoil. You'll soon see that it's really quite straightforward.

What is topsoil?

Topsoil, as its name suggests, is the very top layer of natural soil and the most nutrient-dense. It is readily available to buy in bags from DIY stores and garden centres.

As the RHS explains, shop-bought topsoil tends to be categorised into three different types: premium, general-purpose and economy. Premium is the priciest, but the extra cost should buy you a weed-free mix that's high in fertility and has a good, loamy structure. It's a great pick if you're planning on including any new flowerbeds in your future landscaping ideas.

General-purpose topsoil can also be used when creating new borders, or when sowing fresh lawns. You can buy different screen-sized grades – this refers to the mesh screen the soil is sifted through – varying between coarser and finer textures. Coarser grades are good for laying turf (and are generally cheaper) whilst finer grades are better for top dressing lawns, explains the RHS.

Economy topsoil generally hasn't been sifted or 'screened' and is the least expensive. It tends to be used for more structural projects – if you want to build up a level in a sloping garden, for instance. The uneven texture can make it more difficult for plants to grow, which is why it's better used for landscaping rather than gardening. If you want to use it as a filler when building large raised garden beds, however, a finer topsoil can always be added to the top.

Bear in mind that general-purpose, economy, and even some premium topsoils run the risk of having weeds, and sometimes rocks and glass. Carefully check the soil for this before you buy if possible, but still be prepared to do a bit of maintenance once you've got it in place.

What is compost?

Now, compost. This material is made from decomposed organic matter. If you've got a compost bin in your garden, then you may have already seen your old veg scraps transform into a rich, earthy substance over time. Hot composting or indeed worm composting will get you these results faster.

Of course, if you don't make your own, you can buy it (just remember to opt for peat-free compost – crucial for helping out our environment). Whether it's homemade or not, compost slowly releases nutrients when added to the soil – a lot more than topsoil – which are then absorbed by plants.

It can also improve garden drainage, especially in compacted soils, so in general it's a great way to boost the quality of your garden planters, raised beds, and borders. Think of it as a soil amendment. However, it's more expensive than topsoil and tends to retain water less easily.

Save money and make your own compost

Can you mix topsoil and compost together?

When growing plants, you absolutely can – and ideally should – mix together topsoil and compost to get the best of both worlds. This is an ideal approach if you're creating new raised beds or borders.

The topsoil, being less expensive, will provide the quantity of material needed for the project. It will also help the area retain water better (compost tends to dry out much quicker). However, mixing in compost will give the soil an extra boost of valuable nutrients which will help your plants grow stronger and healthier.

You can also mix the two to create your own potting compost, or for your container garden. For these, as well as very hungry plants, such as those in your vegetable garden, it's often a good idea to add a fertiliser to the mix too.

FAQs

Can you use fertiliser instead of compost?

Now you know more about compost vs topsoil, you might be wondering if you can switch in fertiliser instead of compost. After all, both composting and fertilising plants provides them with nutrients, so aren't they pretty much the same thing?

Not quite. Although fertiliser is a great addition to soil mixes, it releases nutrients much quicker and is more expensive (especially if you make your own compost). It also does nothing for the structure of the ground – how well it breaks up the soil, for example.

For those reasons, it's best to use compost mixed with topsoil to create an optimal and sustainable environment for your plants, and then add in fertiliser should you need it. This could be to amend specific nutrient deficiencies or to give veggies a boost during their growing season, for instance.

Whether you're gearing up for your next landscaping project or just fancy creating a colourful new autumn window box display, knowing the differences between compost and topsoil and when to use each one will ensure you get the best results for your garden.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

There's no escaping the fact that the proportions of a room have a huge effect on how it feels to spend time in, and the way in which you approach the design of it. Understanding how to address any constraints a room may throw up, be that awkward angles or changes in levels means you will not only be able to maximise the ways in which you use it, but also the overall ambience it gives off.

The types of ceiling you have in your home is definitely something you need to take into consideration when designing your interior scheme. While owners of period properties, such as those built during the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian eras often enjoy lofty ceilings, deliberately constructed to be high to aid with the ventilation of open fires and cooking ranges, as well as allowing more natural light to flow into the central rooms, not all houses have the luxury of a tall fifth wall.

Whether you live in a cosy cottage or a new-build with low ceilings there are ways of designing the space to address this – in many cases these ceilings can even become features rather than something to be disguised. Here, designers debunk common myths about low-ceilinged spaces.

1. You don't have to paint the ceiling white

In my own house, an Edwardian property, there are a range of ceiling heights, spanning from a very generous 2.7m in the vaulted bedrooms, living room and kitchen, to what feels like a rather stingy 2.3m in the other reception rooms – which, interestingly, is the exact minimum ceiling height suggested by the Department for Levelling Up, Housing and Communities (DLUHC) for new homes.

We have recently been doing a spot of redecorating and, I have to admit, I had always thought that when it came to painting a ceiling, choosing anything but white paint (particularly for those on the lower side) would be a mistake. However, according to interior designer Holly Scott, I could be missing a trick.

"The instinct can be to immediately paint the ceiling white and try to make it disappear. I don’t think that always has to be the answer. For me, it’s much more about how you want the room to feel and working with its proportions, rather than fighting them.

"Using colour on a low ceiling can actually make a room feel much more considered," continues Holly. "When you take the colour up the walls and across the ceiling it blurs the boundary between wall and ceiling and makes the whole space seem really cocooning and intentional.

"In a room designed for relaxing, rather than trying to make it feel artificially tall and airy, embrace that cosier feeling," suggests Holly. "Colour drenching can work particularly well in snugs, bedrooms and sitting rooms for exactly this reason."

Holly goes on to point out that matching your wall colour to your painted ceiling ideas is not your only option, citing a recent bedroom scheme she worked on (below) as a good case in point.

"In one bedroom scheme, I used a beautiful blue on the ceiling with much lighter walls. The colour connects with the headboard, curtains and accessories and makes the ceiling feel like a deliberate part of the scheme rather than something we needed to hide."

That said, Holly does warn against using too much colour contrast when the ceiling is lower. "Lots of contrast between the walls and ceiling creates a very obvious line around the top of the room, which can draw attention to exactly where the ceiling starts, which you don't always want."

2. Pendant lights aren't necessarily a no-go

Getting the lighting for low ceilings just right is one of the most important things you can do to ensure the success of how the space looks and feels.

Traditionally, the use of pendant lights is something we've all been led to believe we should avoid in rooms with lower ceilings but, according to Holly Scott, there is no need to shun them entirely.

"I wouldn’t necessarily rule out a statement pendant or chandelier. A decorative light can still work beautifully over a bed or dining table, where you’re not walking directly underneath. It’s about getting the scale and drop right, rather than assuming a low ceiling means everything has to sit flush to it."

Michael Jackson, head of design at Northern Lights, says it is best to take a layered approach to your lighting design rather than relying solely on overhead lighting. "While flush or semi-flush ceiling lights might be the obvious choice where head height is limited, I wouldn't rely on the ceiling fittings to do all the work.

"Up-and-down wall lights can be particularly effective in these spaces," continues Michael. "The upward light draws the eye towards the ceiling, while the downward light brings illumination back into the room, making more of the wall feel visible and helping the room feel taller.

"Floor lamps and other low-level light sources are useful for the same reason," adds Michael. "They bring light further down into the room, creating pools of light around furniture, artwork or architectural details."

One thing both Holly and Michael were keen to avoid was the over-use of recessed downlighters. "A grid of downlights puts all the emphasis overhead and can make a low ceiling feel even more noticeable," explains Michael.

3. Small furniture isn't always the best solution

While it makes sense to assume that choosing dainty, light-of-form pieces of furniture is the best course of action when dealing with low-ceilinged spaces, according to the designers I spoke to, you need not feel you have to swerve more substantial pieces altogether.

Holly Scott suggests taking a mix-and-match, space-tailored approach rather than restricting yourself to one particular style.

"It is true that tall, bulky furniture can emphasise a low ceiling, so I tend to look for pieces that sit comfortably within the proportions of the space. Within living room design particularly, lower-backed sofas and furniture with visible legs can create more breathing space.

"That doesn’t mean filling the room with lots of small furniture though," explains Holly. "Too many little pieces can make a space feel cluttered and even smaller. I’d rather use fewer, well-proportioned pieces and give them some space."

Mark Caulfield, director at Glass House Architecture , reveals the approach he takes towards choosing furniture for this kind of situation. "We use low furniture, such as sofas with small legs and low backs, unless it's tall storage, such as a bookcase, in which case it should go right to the ceiling."

Shop low-rise furniture

4. Window treatments don't have to take a backstage role

In rooms with a lower profile, you should think twice before introducing too many contrasting details or filling them with excess 'stuff' – they can quickly look and feel overwhelming to spend time in. However, when it comes to window treatments, there is no need to skip them, or to choose designs that simply blend into the background.

According to Holly Scott, the way in which you choose to dress your windows can actually have a significant impact on the way a ceiling appears. "I like curtains to start high and fall all the way to the floor. That long vertical line naturally leads the eye upwards and can make the proportions of the room feel more generous.

"I’d definitely avoid positioning a curtain pole just above the window simply because that’s where the window finishes," adds Holly. "Look at the whole wall and decide where the treatment will give you the best proportions. I'd do the same with Roman blinds, with a low ceiling have them hang as high up as you can to make the room feel taller."

5. Pattern and dark colours needn't be totally discounted

Just as when dealing with the design of compact spaces, such as downstairs toilets, or those lacking natural light, it can feel wrong to bring dark colours or patterns into a room with low ceiling. However, rather than trying to ignore the proportions you are dealing with, sometimes it's a better idea to just accept and embrace them.

"I don’t think the aim should always be to trick the eye into believing a low-ceilinged room is taller than it is. Sometimes embracing those proportions and creating something warm, cosy and full of character gives you a far more successful room. It’s about making the architecture feel intentional rather than apologising for it," says Holly Scott.

Richard Skeoch, company director at Hyperion Tiles, agrees that leaning into the proportions of a low-ceilinged room, particularly when it comes to your kitchen and bathroom tiling ideas, can be a good thing.

"You don't have to stick to pale colours or avoid pattern. A deeper or richer tile colour can look really effective in a room with a low ceiling, especially if you carry the same or a similar shade onto another surface. This helps the different elements of the room feel connected rather than making the walls and ceiling feel more visually separate."

Richard goes on to reveal some tips for anyone wondering how to approach tiling a vertically-challenged space.

"The way you lay your tiles can make a real difference to how the proportions of the room feel. In a bathroom or kitchen, laying tiles vertically can draw the eye upwards and help to give the impression of more height, particularly when the tiles extend across a good portion of the wall. In a darker room, I would also consider a gloss finish, as the reflective surface can help to bounce light around and make the space feel brighter," he advises.

"Be careful about introducing too many different tile patterns or strong horizontal lines, as these can emphasise the width of the room and make the ceiling feel lower," adds Richard. "Instead, let one tile, colour or pattern be the main feature and keep the other elements relatively simple around it."

6. Wide floorboards and parquet don't have to feel overwhelming

Just like your walls and ceilings, the floor forms an important backdrop and, as such, whatever type of flooring you choose needs to be carefully considered if you want it to work with your ceiling height in a way that benefits the space overall.

Adam Robertson, managing director at Urbane Living, suggests opting for generously proportioned floorboards in this type of situation.

"Longer, wider boards can help a room feel more spacious, particularly if the flooring continues through into adjoining areas. Lots of short boards or a particularly busy pattern can make the floor feel more broken up. That doesn’t mean parquet is off the table though – a well-proportioned parquet floor can bring character to a low-ceilinged room without making it feel too busy, particularly when paired with a natural finish and a simple scheme elsewhere."

Adam goes on to explain that the colour of the floor you choose matters too, as does taking a holistic approach to your overall design. "A lighter floor can help make the most of the available light and give the room a more open feel, while warmer mid-toned timber can make the space feel inviting and comfortable. The key is to think about how all three surfaces work together, rather than creating a strong contrast between the floor, walls and ceiling."

FAQs

What is the best way to use wall panelling in a room with low ceilings?

The popularity of wall panelling just seems to keep on rising. It's a great way to add character to both old and new properties, and a fantastic way of navigating less-than-perfect plasterwork too.

Ian Tomlinson, managing director at Chaunceys Timber Flooring, agrees that timber wall cladding is a brilliant way to turn a lower ceiling into a talking point.

"Rather than trying to disguise the proportions of the space, it can be used to make the ceiling or walls feel like a deliberate architectural feature and, on walls, vertical timber boards can help draw the eye upwards and give the impression of greater height.

"If you are cladding the ceiling itself, I would keep the rest of the room relatively simple and consider a lighter timber tone so that the overhead surface doesn’t feel too heavy," he shares.

"The direction of the boards is also worth considering, as vertical wall cladding can emphasise the height of a room, while timber on the ceiling can bring warmth and make the space feel more enveloping," adds Ian.

"It is also worth thinking about how the timber cladding relates to the flooring. The two don’t need to match exactly, but choosing complementary tones will help the finishes sit comfortably together and prevent the room from feeling as though it has too many competing elements, which can be particularly noticeable when the ceiling is low."

Certain types of spaces, like those with low ceilings, need extra consideration when it comes to their design. For example, when it comes to how to design a north-facing room, it really pays off to think about alternatives to traditional windows as well as the wall colours you use. And of course, there are also spaces where you might find yourself needing to know how to lower a ceiling, instead of understanding how to work with one.

Every September, the same thing happens in my home: the barbecue gets packed away for another year, the windows stay shut more often, and the kitchen becomes the busiest room once again. It’s also, I’ve learned from talking to kitchen fitters and plumbers, the point when small kitchen maintenance jobs left over from summer can start turning into much bigger problems.

“We’ve seen cases where a small drip under the sink has gone unnoticed for months, and by the time it’s discovered, the base unit is completely rotted out and the problem has spread to adjacent units,” says Will Frankling, co-founder of Kitchen Makeovers. “What could have been a £5 washer replacement ends up being a £1,500+ refit.”

A hairline gap in the sealant or a slow-draining sink might not feel urgent in August, but once the cold weather arrives, these seemingly minor issues can become anything but cosmetic. So, before the temperature drops, I asked the experts which kitchen maintenance jobs are worth tackling now – and what could happen if you leave them.

1. Check your sealant

The sealant around a kitchen sink and worktop often looks fine at a glance, so it's easy to assume it's doing its job. Mine certainly did, right up until I actually got down and pressed a finger into it. But according to Mark Irving, a building expert at Build & Plumb, there are a few signs worth checking for.

"Although silicone sealant is designed to be flexible, it can still become brittle as it ages and gradually loses its elasticity," he says. "Water can begin to seep through the cracks in the sealant, damaging the surface beneath." Peeling is another red flag: "Gaps left by peeling sealant allow moisture to accumulate in hard to reach areas, potentially causing mould and rot," warns Mark. Persistent black mould on sealant that won't clean off, yellowing or browning, and sealant that feels firm rather than giving slightly when pressed are all signs it needs replacing too.

"Early autumn is a good time to replace sealant as the moderate temperatures and humidity allow the sealant to cure properly before winter," Mark explains. "In summer, the hotter temperatures can make sealant dry and cure too fast, causing cracks or uneven bonds, and freezing temperatures can mean sealants fail to adhere or cure properly."

Thankfully, this is usually a job you can do yourself. "Smaller scale resealing jobs, such as siliconing a shower or kitchen sink, are usually DIY tasks that most people can complete themselves," says Mark – just make sure the old sealant is fully removed and the area stays dry while the new sealant cures.

2. Descale your taps and mixers properly

I've always just scrubbed at limescale on the kitchen tap without much thought, which, it turns out, is exactly how you ruin one.

"The rule is that the finish decides the method, not the limescale," says Ana Padilla Martinez, e-commerce manager at Plumb2u. Chrome, she says, is forgiving: a weak acid like white vinegar or a shop-bought limescale remover, left on for a few minutes then rinsed and dried, works fine.

Matt black, gunmetal and brushed brass finishes are a different story. "These are coatings over a base metal rather than solid colour, and acid combined with any abrasion takes the coating off in patches that cannot be repaired," Ana warns. On those finishes, the method is much gentler: warm soapy water and a soft cloth, with drying the tap after every use doing more to prevent limescale than any product will. If a descaler is needed, it should be a pH-neutral one made for that finish, and worth testing underneath the spout first, just in case.

There's one popular trick Ana specifically warns against. "The single most damaging tip in circulation is the vinegar-soaked bag tied over the spout overnight," she says. "On chrome it is fine. On a matt or coloured finish it will strip it." If it's water flow rather than visible limescale that's the problem, the fix is usually simpler than people assume: "the problem is usually the aerator rather than the tap. Unscrew the aerator, soak that on its own, and leave the tap body alone entirely."

3. Check under the kitchen sink

According to Michael Sammon, design director at Wödår, the cupboard under the kitchen sink is one of the most overlooked spots in the home, and I'll admit mine hadn't been properly opened and inspected in longer than I'd like to say.

"Most of us only really notice something when the tap starts misbehaving or there's suddenly water where there shouldn't be," Michael says. "But there are usually warning signs long before that."

Start your maintenance checks with the isolation valve – the small in-line valve that supplies water to your tap. “Its whole purpose is to let you shut off one fitting without draining the house,” explains Ana Padilla Martinez. But if it’s left untouched for years, it can seize up, turning a straightforward repair into a much bigger job. “You cannot replace a kitchen tap, a washer or a flexi hose without going back to the main stopcock – and in older properties, that’s frequently seized too.”

Thankfully, the fix is simple and costs nothing. Twice a year, turn each isolation valve a quarter turn and back again. If one won’t move, replace it now, while everything is still dry.

While you’re under the sink, check the flexible tap connectors too. “These braided hoses have a service life of roughly five to ten years,” says Ana. “They fail from the inside out with no warning, in a cupboard nobody looks in.” If yours are old or you can’t tell how old they are, replace them the next time the tap is being worked on.

Michael also recommends taking a few minutes to properly inspect the area. "Run the tap, empty a full sink and check around the waste, pipework and connections," he says. Look out for staining, moisture, a swollen cabinet base or a musty smell – all early warning signs of damp and mould taking hold. A slow leak can also go unnoticed for months, causing far more damage than the original problem.

4. Check your hinges, drawer runners and soft-close mechanisms

This is the one job that has nothing to do with water or damp, and everything to do with simple wear and tear – and the one I'm most guilty of ignoring, since a sticking drawer is easy to just live with.

"Older kitchens tend to have issues with hinges and drawer runners failing first – they simply wear out over time," says Will Frankling. If a drawer's started sticking, dropping slightly, or a cupboard door doesn't sit quite flush, it's worth tightening or lubricating hinges now rather than waiting for them to fail entirely once you're relying on that cupboard daily in the lead up to Christmas.

Newer kitchens have a different set of problems. "We see more issues with soft-close mechanisms in newer kitchens, which can be expensive to replace," Will adds. A soft-close hinge or drawer that's started slamming, sticking, or closing unevenly is worth flagging early, because replacing one mechanism is a much smaller job than dealing with a drawer front that's come loose from repeated hard closing.

5. Clean your extractor fan (thoroughly)

I confess, I assumed my extractor fan was doing its bit to improve kitchen ventilation without giving it too much thought, and hadn't checked the filters in months. And according to Jade Golding-Gault, appliance expert at AO.com, that's exactly the problem most of us face as the weather changes.

"As we head into winter, and start closing our windows and doors, our homes naturally become more sealed up," Jade explains. "This means cooking smells, moisture and airborne grease have fewer places to escape. Giving kitchen extractor fans and cooker hoods some attention now can help prevent lingering odours and grease build-up around the kitchen throughout the colder months."

It turns out most of us aren't cleaning them nearly often enough. "Most households should aim to clean their extractor fan filters every two to three months, although more frequent cleaning may be needed if you regularly fry foods or cook with oils," Jade says. "Over time, grease and grime accumulate in the filters, reducing airflow, making the appliance less effective."

Her method is simple: take the filters out and either run them through a hot dishwasher cycle or soak them in hot, soapy water for at least 10 minutes before scrubbing off any residue. While they dry, wipe down the hood and surrounding surfaces with a microfibre cloth.

Not sure if yours needs doing? "A quick visual inspection is often enough," says Jade. "If the filters look greasy, feel sticky or have changed colour, it's a good indication they're due a clean." Lingering cooking smells, or steam and condensation not clearing properly while you cook, are also signs that grease build-up is restricting airflow.

FAQs

Why is autumn a good time for kitchen maintenance?

Three things change in a kitchen as we head toward winter: moisture has fewer ways to escape, temperature swings put more strain on pipework and seals, and kitchen appliances that were coasting through summer suddenly get used far more intensively.

"Water ingress is the biggest threat to kitchen units, and small gaps can turn into major problems when heating is on and temperatures fluctuate," explains Will Frankling. And it's the same story with ventilation: "Condensation builds up much more in winter, and a faulty extractor fan will lead to damp and mould issues."

What other appliances need checking before winter?

Ovens deserve the same attention in autumn, and for a similar reason. "During the colder months, smoke and cooking odours have fewer opportunities to escape the home," Jade explains. "As a result, even small amounts of baked-on grease and food residue can become much more noticeable when the oven is in regular use." Autumn and winter are also when we tend to cook the most, so a neglected oven has the worst possible timing to make itself known.

Her advice is to stay ahead of it rather than wait for a deep clean to become unavoidable: "The best approach is to tackle grease and food residue before it has a chance to build up." That means taking the shelves out to soak in warm, soapy water and using a proper oven cleaner on the interior, paying particular attention to baked-on spills on the base.

"A thorough clean every few months, combined with wiping away fresh spills as soon as the oven has cooled, can help prevent unpleasant odours and stubborn build-up," she says.

If winter arrives and you're still dealing with persistent moisture in your kitchen, it's worth understanding what causes condensation and how to bring humidity levels back under control. And if any of these jobs have already led to a bit of damage, our guide on how to get rid of damp walks you through how to tackle it before it spreads.

There's a particular kind of denial available only to homeowners, and I'd been enjoying mine for weeks: a patch of paint by the skirting board that kept bubbling no matter how many coats I gave it. I blamed the damp weather, assuming it would dry out eventually. It didn't.

The cause, it turned out, was outside. Ivy had taken hold of the wall exactly where the damp patch sat inside, and it wasn't even mine. It had started life in next door's garden before working its way steadily up the side of my house.

The wall itself wasn't in question. There was no boundary confusion or ambiguous deeds; it was mine outright. So I assumed I could simply pay someone to remove the ivy. But owning a wall and having the right to a plant-free version of it turned out to be two different things. And that's where a straightforward garden problem became a legal one, so I asked some experts to talk me through it.

First, ascertain who owns a boundary wall if you need to

There's no general rule that the wall on a particular side of a garden belongs to that property. The common assumption that whichever wall or fence sits on your left is yours has no basis in law. Working it out means going back to the title deeds, older conveyances and the Land Registry plan for both properties, bearing in mind that the plan usually shows only the general position of a boundary, rather than its precise legal line. Some deeds spell responsibility out directly; others rely on subtler clues, such as inward-facing "T" marks, which can also help when establishing who owns a retaining wall.

A wall can also stand across the boundary itself, jointly owned by both neighbours as a party fence wall. In that case, work to it may require notice under the Party Wall etc. Act 1996 – although the Act governs how the work is carried out, not who owns the wall in the first place. If none of this is conclusive, a boundary surveyor can assess the wall's physical construction, rather than relying on paperwork that may no longer exist.

But suppose you already know it's yours, like I did? It's unfortunately not the end of the question – it's closer to the start of an entirely different one.

Owning the wall doesn't mean you own the right to be plant-free

You'd think owning the wall outright meant you got the final say over what's growing on it. Not necessarily, says Tim Kirkconel, senior associate at Birketts: "If the wall is entirely yours, your neighbour cannot use it just because one side faces their garden." But that right isn't unconditional. A neighbour can still be entitled to keep a plant there in three situations, Tim explains: if the deeds specifically give them that right, if they've been using the wall that way for 20 years, or if the plant was already growing there before the two properties were ever split into separate ownership.

It works both ways, too. "Fixing a trellis or wires without permission may be a trespass," says Tim, "and so may a plant which grows up and attaches itself to the wall." Nobody needs to have deliberately put it there. It can simply grow its way onto your wall and still raise a legal question.

What counts as trespass in this context?

The word doing a lot of the legal work here is 'trespass', and it's a lower bar than most people assume. "Trespass is unjustified physical interference with property in someone else's possession," says Tim Kirkconel. "It does not depend on any damage being caused." In other words, the damp patch isn't the trigger – the plant being there without a right to be there is enough on its own, whether or not it's actually causing damage.

Nor does the position simply stay frozen because nothing has been done about it. A trespass that continues after a written request to stop, Tim explains, is treated as "a fresh wrong on each day it remains". So if you've written to a neighbour asking them to deal with an encroaching plant and heard nothing back, the fact that it is still there matters.

Can you cut back or remove your neighbour's plant yourself?

Being in the right and being free to act on it are two different things. Minal Backhouse, CEO of Backhouse Solicitors, says that, "you can cut back branches or roots that have grown onto your property, as far as the boundary, without asking your neighbour's permission." That has to be done from your own side, without entering their garden – the same principle that applies to overhanging branches and encroaching tree roots, not just climbing plants.

Joanne Ellis, partner at Stephensons, adds an important caveat: whatever you cut back, "you must only do so up to the boundary line and should take care not to kill the plant."

Established growth complicates matters further, and this is really the crux of it for anyone whose ivy has been there long enough to become deeply rooted or attached to the wall. Tim Kirkconel puts it plainly: "pulling established ivy or wisteria away can do more damage than leaving it." At that point, removing it may create a legal problem as well as a practical one if doing so causes damage.

The same caution applies to cutting back tree roots that have encroached from next door: you can generally cut back to the boundary, but doing so carelessly can destabilise the tree and potentially create liability.

There's also a rule most people have never heard of which is that cut material technically still belongs to the plant's owner. "The offcuts should typically be offered back to the owner rather than retained," says Minal. But throwing them back over the fence isn't as harmless as it sounds – Jill Carey, property litigation partner at Freeths, warns it "could constitute fly tipping."

Before cutting anything back, there's another issue worth checking: wildlife protections. It is an offence to damage or destroy an active wild bird's nest, and bats and their roosts are also protected by law under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981. That makes it particularly important to check for protected wildlife before tackling dense or established growth.

What if your neighbour refuses to deal with it?

Every expert I spoke to said the same thing first: try to sort it out directly before anything else. "The first step should always be to raise the issue with the neighbour and try to reach an amicable resolution," says Joanne Ellis. Document everything as you go – photos of the damp, the growth, and any correspondence – because you'll need it if things escalate. Tim Kirkconel's advice, unless the situation is urgent, is to notify your neighbour in writing and give them reasonable time to investigate before doing anything else. It's the same first step that comes up in most other neighbour disputes, plants or otherwise: talk before you escalate.

If a conversation doesn't work, mediation is the recommended next step before legal action. Should it get that far, Minal Backhouse says a claim would typically be brought for private nuisance, alongside possible trespass or negligence claims, and could seek both compensation and a court order forcing the neighbour to act. Jill Carey's advice is to get a surveyor's report confirming causation before doing anything drastic yourself: "invoking self help and pulling up the plants could be very risky and expose you to a claim."

Does it matter what kind of plant it is?

Ordinary ivy and wisteria don't carry special legal status, but some plants change the picture entirely. Japanese knotweed is the big one: "you do have a responsibility not to allow it to spread from your land, and civil liability may arise where it encroaches onto neighbouring land," says Minal Backhouse.

Tim Kirkconel agrees it's "a subject of its own," needing specialist treatment and disposal, and its spread onto neighbouring land can trigger a separate nuisance claim in its own right. Joanne Ellis notes it's "been the subject of significant litigation in recent years due to the impact it can have on neighbouring properties and property values" – and bamboo is increasingly treated the same way by the courts, for similar reasons.

Who pays for any damage?

This is the least straightforward answer of the lot. "There is no automatic rule that the homeowner who owns the plant must pay every resulting cost," says Minal Backhouse – it depends on whether the plant can actually be shown to have caused the damage, rather than something else (defective pointing, failed gutters, existing disrepair) being the real culprit. Joanne Ellis agrees liability isn't automatic: it typically requires showing the neighbour "knew or ought reasonably to have known about the problem."

Minal's suggestion, and a genuinely useful one for anyone in this position, is to separate the costs into distinct elements – removal of the plant, repair to the wall, damp treatment, and legal or surveyor fees – because liability for each isn't necessarily the same. Carey adds a practical tip worth checking before any of this: "homeowners should therefore check their insurance policies to see whether they have cover for the costs of pursuing the remedy as well as the cost of the works."

How I resolved my own damp issue

In my case, it was less dramatic than all the above advice might have you think. I mentioned the ivy to my neighbour, and she was happy for it to come down, as she hadn't realised how far it had spread. Given how established it was, I had it professionally removed rather than tackling it myself. The pointing underneath turned out to be in worse shape than expected, disturbed by years of roots working into the joints, so that was repaired at the same time.

Once the ivy was gone, it became clear that the damp had been caused by moisture trapped behind the growth, rather than by the plant itself. I ran a dehumidifier in the room for a couple of weeks to dry the wall out properly before touching it, then finished with anti-damp paint rather than my usual emulsion.

It's worth saying that an amicable neighbour makes this the easy version of the story, and not everyone gets one. If yours isn't as accommodating, everything above still applies before you get anywhere near a dehumidifier.

Ivy and wisteria aren't the only culprits worth knowing about – several other common plants can damage a home given time. And if your damp turns out to run deeper than one wall, it's worth understanding how to treat it properly before you pick up a paintbrush – or, if a new wall's on the cards instead, the planning rules around height and boundaries are worth checking first.

It’s predicted that more than half of UK homes will be ‘smart homes’ by 2027, with connected or automated devices for heating, security, lighting and more.

Reputedly one of the best smart thermostats brands, Hive has been a part of this technological revolution for well over a decade – unlike my boiler and heating habits that were firmly stuck in the past.

However, given rising energy prices, with another hike predicted in autumn, I decided it was time to for me to catch up and get a Hive Thermostat installed to see if it really would make a difference.

What is the Hive Thermostat?

The Hive Thermostat is the flagship device in Hive’s heating control range, offering in-depth, convenient system management via Hive’s app.

This smart-looking thermostat unit links up to your heating system via two essential system components:

• Hive Hub: This costs an extra £70, connects to your WiFi router and can also communicate with other Hive devices
• Receiver unit: This is included with the thermostat. It communicates with your central heating, provided the model is compatible

There are simple controls on the thermostat itself, including a boost button for chilly moments, but as I discovered, you’ll get the best out of the device by setting up a heating schedule and using other features in the connected smartphone app.

When I asked Hive’s director, Gav Murray, how the current Hive Smart Thermostat differs from previous generations, he told me that its most important updates were focused around control, flexibility and energy usage monitoring.

“It works with a wider smart home set-up, from Hive thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) for room-by-room control, to voice assistants like Alexa, Google Home and Siri.

“You can also invite family members to your Hive account," he adds, "so everyone in the household can control the thermostat remotely when they need to. And for compatible boilers, features like OpenTherm can help improve efficiency by giving the boiler more precise control, rather than simply switching heating on and off.”

Hive+ Membership is an extra option

Some of Hive’s more sophisticated features are available via a paid membership only. This premium service is called Hive+, and it costs £39.90/year or £3.99/month, depending on your chosen billing cycle. There’s an economic argument for getting Hive+, as the features it unlocks are said to save customers up to £18 per month on their energy costs.

Of course, what you save will depend on how much you can use these features. The Hive+ offering includes Saver Mode, which automatically adapts heating use to keep you on budget, Schedule Assist, which guides you in creating a cost-effective heating schedule, and a budget tracker that alerts you to overspend on heating.

Setting up schedules was easier than I imagined

Prior to getting the Hive thermostat installed, I'll admit that I never used to bother with setting a schedule for my central heating – my old, manual thermostat made the process so fiddly that it didn’t feel worth the hassle.

So, I was delighted to discover that Hive’s app makes it blissfully easy to set a heating schedule, meaning it was a smart heating set-up I could get on board with. You can create a separate schedule for each day of the week, with different thermostat temperatures at different periods of the day, to suit your routine.

The app is pre-populated with quite a lot of time slots for each day, but I found myself deleting or tweaking some of these to produce a straightforward schedule that would ensure the house was warm when I really needed it to be. Of course, if the schedule isn’t working out for you on a certain day, you can manually turn the heating on or off.

The physical Hive Thermostat is also a pleasure to use, with intuitive controls and an attractive display. I reached for it when I wanted to tweak the temperature or activate a boost via the dedicated button, but the app is better for fiddlier operations such as schedule control.

Another way to manually override the schedule is via Google Home, Siri or Alexa voice commands, if you have a compatible smart speaker or display linked up to Hive.

Using the Hive Thermostat to manage costs

There are some intriguing data and budgeting features in the Hive app, accessible to Hive+ users. I was particularly interested in the Budget Tracker feature, which allows you to set an energy budget or savings goal versus the previous year’s energy spend.

I used this with Hive’s Saver Mode to target a 5% reduction in my annual heating spend – which means the app will automatically tweak my heating schedule through the year to reduce heating use accordingly. On a more simple note, you can also view graphics showing your heating use (over days, weeks, months or years) in the app.

“I’m a bit of a nerd when it comes to this, but one of my favourite features is being able to see my energy usage in the Hive app,” says Gav Murray. “Because it connects directly to my smart meter, I can get a much better understanding of how and when I’m using energy at home.”

Some setup within the Hive app is required before you can access Hive+ insights. For example, you’re asked to tell the app what type of home you have (e.g. semi-detached or bungalow), when the property was built, and how it is heated. I can imagine some users finding this invasive.

Another nifty Hive+ feature is an alert system that sends you a notification, email or text when your heating system is not working as efficiently as usual. Thankfully, I’ve yet to receive one of these alerts, but it’s good to know that I’m likely to hear from Hive if my boiler’s performance starts to dip.

How the thermostat functions when you're away

One of the key benefits to Hive (as well as some other smart heating technology providers) is that you can turn your heating on and off using the smartphone app, even when you’re away from home.

When you’ll be out for multiple days, the best way to tap into this is by using Away Mode, which can override your heating schedule with presets tailored for when you’re not at home.

“It’s a feature that some users overlook, but Away Mode is a really simple way to automate your home around your routine, particularly when it comes to managing your heating,” says Gav Murray.

“If you leave the house and forget to switch something off, or you’re heading away on holiday and don’t want your heating coming on unnecessarily, Away Mode can take care of that for you.”

During my testing, I also found it handy that I could manually activate heating while out and about, before I arrived home. This allowed me to warm the house up on unexpectedly chilly evenings, boost the temperature to keep my pet cat cosy, or warm up towels that I’d left on a radiator rack.

FAQs

Is Hive the best smart thermostat brand?

Hive is one of the most popular smart thermostat brands, and I was impressed with my hands-on experience. However, there are other well-regarded brands that are also worth considering.

“Alongside Hive, the Google Nest thermostat is another of the most popular smart thermostat providers, and the two tend to suit different types of users,” says Sam Carter, heating expert at Appliances Direct.

“Nest is generally “smarter”, offering AI features that learn from your schedule (it knows when you’re at home as it knows the location of your phone) and adjusts settings automatically over time. This sounds complicated but in practice you simply install it, it learns, and you don’t have to think about it again,” he says.

“Hive is better if you like having fine control over scheduling your heating yourself, and it’s the most flexible choice if you use Alexa or Apple Homekit. It’s less about automation and more about giving you easy, app based control without the AI learning curve.”

Which types of radiators are best to use with a Hive thermostat?

“Aluminium radiators are the perfect type of radiator for integrating into smart systems, because their quick heat-up makes them well suited to geofencing and scheduling,” says Sam Carter.

“That matters because smart heating relies on rapid response: geofencing and scheduling work best if the system warms your home when you need it to, so there’s no lag or wasted energy.”

Will a smart thermostat work in every home?

Popular smart thermostats are usually compatible with a wide range of combi boilers and other heating systems. Hive thermostats work with most systems, but there are exceptions including solid fuel boilers and certain Worcester Bosch boilers. You will need a WiFi connection.

The potential benefits of a smart thermostat are limited by the condition and efficiency of your heating system. “A smart thermostat can only control the heat your system produces, so if your boiler is old and clunky, your pipes are poorly insulated, or your home leaks warmth faster than you can generate it, then all of the thermostat’s clever features won’t address the root cause of inefficiency,” says Anton Neike, Energy Expert and CEO of Taupia.

“Before you invest in smart controls, check your boiler’s efficiency rating. If it is over 15 years old and non-condensing, it should be replaced. You should also insulate your pipes and hot water cylinder, as this will deliver savings on every heating cycle.”

All things considered, getting a Hive smart thermostat has made a big improvement to how I heat my home, adding flexibility, accessibility and some smart features that seem likely to save energy and money in the long run. For more ideas to smarten up your home, see our guides: What is a smart plug? and What is smart lighting?

Since plug-in solar was legalised at the end of August, the question on many homeowners' lips is 'where can you buy plug-in solar panels?'

While high-street retailers, including well-known stores such as Lidl and B&Q, were involved in early talks about distribution, as yet, not all of them have launched plug-in solar panels in-store or online. And, when you do an internet search for plug-in solar, all kinds of options appear, including portable kits for camping.

Add to this the fact that they have to be legally compliant – and the fact not all of them can be delivered until later in the year – it can be confusing to know where to start. The good news is I've done some of the legwork for you, so here's where to head if you're planning on purchasing.

Very already has plug-in solar panel kits on offer

It's fair to say Very wasn't one of the places I'd assumed would be competing for the plug-in solar market. But, they aren't just competing, they're also clearly trying to get ahead of the race with some of the range available at pre-discounted prices.

They also state some items will be delivered from mid-September, beating some of the other retailers who are proposing late October.

The plug-in solar panel brand Very are selling is UKSOL, which is available across a number of stores, and listed on the Energy Network Association (ENA) Type Test Register.

It's important to note the link to the ENA, as if you've seen other brands at different retailers, it's worth heading to the site to see if you can find the make and model. I'd also say not to assume one search is enough. Even at the time of writing this article the number of products jumped from 58 to 64 in under two hours.

All of the kits shown come with panels, cables, a solar panel inverter and either a floor or hybrid mount so you can install them on the floor or a vertical wall.

In terms of how they work, Phil Steele, future technologies evangelist at Octopus Energy explains more. "The panels generate DC (direct current) electricity from sunlight. A micro-inverter then converts this into AC (alternating current) electricity – the type of electricity used by households and the electricity grid.

"The system automatically synchronises with the household’s electricity supply. Customers can simply plug the system into a standard three-pin socket, and the electricity flows into the home’s electrical circuit to help power appliances like fridges or TVs."

Argos also has a full selection of UKSOL plug-in solar panels

If, like me, you remember the Argos catalogue fondly at this time of year for being the main source of your letter to Santa and family gifts, then it probably comes as no surprise that it's selling plug-in solar panels. After all, it pretty much was the paper version of Amazon when I was a child, and still to this day continues to offer wide variety of products for homes and gardens.

UKSOL is again the main brand on offer here, with the same bundle of panels, inverter and cables, but with a delivery date of late October.

It feels as if the dates on all the retailers I'm listing have the potential to move, although I can confirm some plug-in panels are available in the UK as one of our team has received a compliant kit to review – so watch this space.

Screwfix only have one product – but it's compliant

At the moment, Screwfix are only offering one plug-in solar panel kit and, as with the other retailers, it's sold with everything you need to get up and running. I've checked and it's also considered compliant with the UK regulations. There's no obvious delivery date, however, and when I entered my postcode it just confirmed it could be delivered in the timeframe offered by the supplier. So I was none the wiser.

Unlike roof-top solar panel installation which requires a professional, the advantage of plug-in solar is that it can be a DIY job. But, given the size and weight of some of the panels which are basically full size and comparable to solar PV on your roof, make sure you position and mount them safely, and according to the instructions.

And don't forget to keep your insurance company informed if you are considering buying solar panels. “Every policy is different, so while plug-in panels are generally covered, it’s worth checking your policy documents before installing them to make sure there are no limitations excluding the use of such systems," advises Nathan Blackler, home insurance expert at Go.Compare. "If you’re still unsure, get in touch with them and ask to get clarification on whether you’ll be covered, ideally in writing to be on the safe side."

City Plumbing offers an alternative brand to UKSOL

Another plug-in solar panel brand that appears on the list is Hoymiles and there's a range of these available at City Plumbing, alongside the UKSOL ones we've already mentioned.

And, when I popped in my postcode on one of the product listings to check for collection or delivery, I was told I could collect in six days, or get delivery for free in just two days.

In terms of the size to choose, while available space will usually dictate whether you opt for one or two panels, one of the key things to remember when choosing your panels is that you are not allowed to put more than 800W of power generated by plug-in solar panels into your home.

This is why, even if you choose panels that show a wattage rating over 800, don't assume you will get that full amount. The inverter you plug into is limited to 800W so that the kits don't exceed what is allowed.

And, you can't plug in two sets in different places into plugs to try and beat the system – just in case you were wondering.

Amazon has less plug-in solar at the moment than you might think

I'll admit to finding my plug-in solar panel search on Amazon a little overwhelming. It appears to pull up lots of products, but when you start looking into them properly, so many of the suggestions it makes are for portable solar kits – the kind you might take camping, or use to power floodlights on a shed for example.

But, there are two plug-in solar panels that are confirmed as compliant, and come as ready-made kits that would be suitable if you are looking for a one-panel unit. Delivery on these is currently showing as 25-26 September.

With Amazon Big Day Deals just around the corner on 6-7 October, I'll also be interested to see if these are discounted at all.

As the race to supply plug-in solar continues, there's no doubt that the market will grow in size. Octopus Energy has been the first energy (and roof-top solar) supplier to put themselves into the mix, with two kits already on their website and available to purchase ready for an end of September delivery. Other suppliers have confirmed they will be doing the same.

And, if you're considering making bigger changes to how you generate energy for your home, make sure you read our comprehensive guide to the renewable energy options available to you.

Love them or hate them, the hot summers we are experiencing more frequently have their pros and cons. On the one hand help us to get wet laundry dry outside and allow everyone to get more use out of their barbecues and patio areas. On the other hand, they can wreak havoc on our homes – in some cases even more so than wet and freezing weather.

Around my own home, it has been my exterior woodwork that seems to have suffered the most. My window frames and front door have been left with peeling paint and cracks that definitely weren't there before summer. Some level of window repair is definitely in order and sadly I think the front door may need repainting – again.

Keen to get my house looking shipshape and ready to face whatever autumn and winter have in store, I reached out to the experts to find out what steps I should take to repair and protect the external timber elements of my home.

What damage can heat do to exterior woodwork?

While I am a bit of a sun worshipper, I don't necessarily love the effect extreme heat can have on my home. Brown grass, dead shrubs, faded paintwork, mysterious mould in the bathroom and strange things happening to the exterior woodwork – namely my window and door frames, but also the wooden sills and even the fascia boards.

James Allsop, managing director and bespoke joinery expert at JLA Joinery, explains why my woodwork is looking in such poor condition. "Extended periods of hot, dry weather can cause timber to lose moisture and contract. This movement can open joints, create small cracks and cause paint or protective coatings to split and flake. Dark-painted woodwork can be particularly vulnerable because it absorbs more heat."

Joe Buckley, founder and director at Heritage Joinery Solutions, points out that it was also lucky my exterior woodwork is painted as, had it not been, the problem could have been even worse. "Heat will expose weaknesses in exterior timber quickly. Bare timber loses moisture really quickly, leaving it more prone to splitting or distortion. Also, exposed joinery will take a harder hit than shaded timber."

Can heat-damaged exterior woodwork be repaired or is replacement needed?

I really don't relish the though of having to face the cost of window replacement to put this problem right, so what are my options if I want to upgrade the kerb appeal of my house as autumn approaches?

"Visible damage does not automatically mean exterior woodwork needs replacing," reassures James Allsop. "A well-made timber window or door can often be repaired, even when it initially looks quite badly weathered. The first step is to determine whether the problem is limited to the paintwork and surface of the timber, or whether moisture has entered through the damaged finish and caused decay.

"Replacement is generally only necessary where the timber has suffered extensive rot, severe distortion or damage that has compromised the structure, operation or security of the window or door," continues James. "In many cases, localised repairs or the replacement of individual components can extend its life considerably and preserve the character of the property."

"Most heat-damaged timber windows are saveable if the underlying wood is still sound," agrees Joe Buckley. "If I see that the paint is peeling or a sash window is sticking, it doesn’t mean the whole frame has failed. Small damage can just be cut out and repaired. Replacing the full frame is only necessary when the damage affects the structure or stops the window from moving as designed.

"You can adjust slightly warped timber, but badly distorted sections are usually replaced piece by piece," adds Joe. "A skilled joiner wouldn't replace a whole window when only one part has failed."

Shop for your exterior woodwork repair

How do you repair heat-damaged exterior woodwork?

The good news, then, is that woodwork that has suffered at the hands of the heatwaves is saveable. Joe Buckley explains the best course of action – which includes avoiding taking any shortcuts when painting wood. "Painting straight over heat-damaged timber only hides the problem. Remove loose coatings and allow the wood to stabilise before repairing damaged areas. Then repaint the areas."

James Allsop goes on to explain how he approaches this kind of damage. "Where the wood remains structurally sound, we can remove loose or failing coatings, allow the timber to dry properly, repair cracks and joints, replace small damaged sections if necessary and then apply a suitable exterior finishing system."

James also agrees that this is no place for trying to hide the problem under a new finish. "It is important not to simply paint over cracked or flaking areas, as this can trap moisture and hide deterioration rather than solve it."

How do you prepare exterior woodwork for winter?

Once you have put right any damage that summer might have done to your home, it is time to turn your thoughts to how you will get your house ready for winter – and woodwork, in particular, needs special consideration.

Before winter hits, a quick inspection of your woodwork is essential says James Allsop. "Run your hands over external wooden doors, frames, windows and balcony rails. Look closely at joints, lower edges and areas surrounding glazing. Watch for peeling paint, dry or faded patches, small cracks, open joints, dark staining or exposed timber. Also check whether doors and windows continue to open, close and lock correctly.

"Clean away dirt and organic debris too – a layer of dirt may look harmless, but leaves, moss and debris can trap water against the timber. Gently clean exterior wood using a suitable product and a soft brush or cloth. Also, make sure drainage channels remain clear and that soil, plant pots or stored objects are not pressed against the timber.

"Look above doors and windows too," he continues. "A damaged gutter or overflowing downpipe can subject joinery to far more water than it was designed to receive.

"Pay attention to places where water may collect, particularly around thresholds, sills and the lower sections of doors and frames," James adds. "Clear gutters, keep drainage channels unobstructed and address small defects before prolonged wet weather arrives. With good-quality timber, proper preparation and regular maintenance, exterior joinery should last for many years."

"Manage any damage before autumn if you can," picks up Joe Buckley. "Autumn is still better than winter for repairs, especially if long UK wet weather spells haven't set in yet. Moisture accelerates decay so keeping water out now will do far more for the timber than trying to repair rot later.

"Check the protective coating and closely examine exposed end grain, because that’s where moisture gets in quickest," adds Joe. "This is the graining at the end of any cut timber."

Finally, James advises strongly against oiling exterior woodwork once you are in the depths of winter. "Autumn is often a better time to carry out exterior maintenance than the middle of winter, but the weather still needs to be suitable. The timber must be clean and properly dry. The manufacturer’s required temperature, timber moisture level and drying time should also be followed."

Try this handy tool for keeping your gutters clean

Now is the perfect time to look at other ways of upgrading the kerb appeal of your home – check the condition of your driveway, brickwork and exterior lighting before the weather turns.

If I'm being honest, for most of the year, I completely forget about my log burner. It sits there throughout summer while I get on with everything else, and then, as soon as the temperature drops, I expect it to spring back into action without so much as a complaint.

As it turns out, that's not quite how it works. My log burner needs to undergo a few checks after months of being left unused, before it's safe to light again. It's not the most glamorous item on my autumn to-do list, but I'd rather do a little maintenance now than risk an expensive repair, or worse, a chimney fire, later in the season.

So, I spoke to stove experts to find out what needs checking before lighting my first fire of the season, and how to get my log burner ready for autumn. These are the four key steps they recommend you take.

1. Sweep the chimney

"The first thing to do is have your stove professionally serviced and swept," says Jon Butterworth, director at Arada. "Aim to organise it at the start of autumn if you haven't already had it done this year. This will result in your stove working efficiently and safely, whilst preventing the build-up of soot in the flue or chimney."

How often a chimney really needs sweeping will come down to how often you're burning wood. If the answer is 'regularly' then once a year is likely not enough. "We'd recommend scheduling a chimney sweep twice a year," adds Adam Oldfield, director at StovesAreUs. "Without regular maintenance, flue liners can corrode and chimneys can accumulate creosote and other highly flammable products of combustion, increasing the risk of a chimney fire."

2. Dusting down

The interior of your stove
It might seem counterintuitive, but a spotless firebox isn't the goal. "It can actually be more beneficial to leave some ash in place, as dry wood will burn a lot better on its cinders," explains Jon Butterworth. "That's not to say you should leave it months, though – when a large pile of ash starts to appear, just clear away the top inch or so. A small wire brush is helpful for difficult-to-reach areas, such as the roof of the firebox chamber."

For the glass door, all three experts point to the same low-cost method. "Clean the door glass by dipping a damp cloth in the wood ash and wiping it gently – there's no need for any specific glass cleaning product," says Jon.

Phil Wood agrees: "The tried-and-tested ash and water method, combined with a little elbow grease, is all you really need."

The exterior of your stove
"Give the exterior a wipe with a lint-free cloth or clean shoe brush, but avoid using water or a damp cloth," says Jon. "There's no need to clean it after every use – it's more about keeping it looking its best as a focal centrepiece year-round."

3. Home fire safety checks

Servicing the stove is only half the job. The safety equipment around it needs checking too – and it's worth thinking about fireproofing your home more broadly while you're at it.

"Checking your smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors should be part of your ongoing home maintenance," says Jon Butterworth. "It's also a good time to clean the sensors with the soft brush attachment of a vacuum cleaner."

UK government guidance recommends testing alarms monthly, but he suggests stove owners should be even more vigilant: "If you have a battery-operated alarm, change the power source once a year, or invest in a 10-year alarm, and replace older detectors once that lifespan is up."

4. Check stove components

While many reputable stove bodies will come with a lifetime guarantee, some consumables will eventually suffer wear and tear. According to the experts, each autumn it's worth checking the following components:

Door rope

Broken or split seals affect airtightness, diminishing the burn and making lighting difficult. "You should check that your stove door rope is still maintaining a tight seal by doing an easy test," says Jon Butterworth. "Perform the paper test – close the door on a strip of paper and try to pull it out. If it slides out easily, the seal isn't tight enough and the rope should be replaced before the heating season."

Liners/fire bricks

"Fire bricks can sometimes get accidentally scraped or gouged during a lifetime of use, or through over-exuberant use of fireplace tools when adjusting lit logs in the fire chamber," says Jon. "Damage may eventually cause them to crack and crumble, at which point they should be replaced, since they can no longer protect the stove body from damage under high temperatures."

Glass and glass clips

"Just as with checking the integrity of the door rope seal, any air gaps here will also result in a huge deficit in your stove's performance and should be remedied," says Jon. "Check that the glass clips are still retaining a tight grip on the door glass, and look out for cracks. If a stove has any perforations or cracks in its door glass, or other unintended air gaps, it shouldn't be used until the offending components are replaced."

Additional seasonal stove care

It's also worth checking moveable components like air sliders regularly to ensure free movement, and lubricate with a water-repelling corrosion inhibitor during long periods of non-use.

Think about how your stove is left between uses too. "Leave the air inlets open to allow air movement through the stove, or even leave the door ajar," says Jon Butterworth. "This prevents moisture and condensation forming inside the stove and chimney. Check your user guide to see whether you can remove the throat plate and store it separately in a dry place."

Getting to grips with how your log burner's air vents actually work more generally will also make a noticeable difference to how efficiently it burns once the season gets going.

Why is it important to maintain your log burning stove in autumn?

"With the arrival of autumn and temperatures inevitably starting to drop, September is the opportune time to inspect your heating system and plan for any maintenance or repairs before peak usage," explains Adam Oldfield. "With chimney fire incidents traditionally spiking between January and March, taking action in early autumn ensures your appliance runs safely and at peak efficiency when you need it most.

"Alongside sweeping, check your stove's consumable parts like stove glass, rope seals, firebricks, and baffle plates for signs of excessive wear like cracks and warping. By carrying out these checks, you can spot any potential issues before they turn into expensive problems and extend the lifespan of your stove."

Phil Wood, UK managing director at Contura, adds that the real issue for most homeowners isn't knowing what to check, but getting round to it: "One of the biggest log burner mistakes homeowners can make is lack of upkeep between seasons. A little care and regular maintenance will ensure your wood burning stove continues to work efficiently."

When to call a professional

"There are various telltale signs when your chimney needs a professional clean, including burned wood smells when the fire is not lit, poorly burning fires, excessive smoke and blackened glass," says Phil Wood. "If you experience any of these issues, book a maintenance check and sweep with a professional. Checkatrade lists reputable companies across the UK, so look for HETAS and/or Sweep Safe accreditations."

It's worth looking into what a chimney sweep typically costs before you book, as prices vary more than you'd think depending on your chimney type and location.

Tips for lighting your first fire of the season

Once everything's cleaned and swept, resist the urge to load up the stove straight away. "Start with a small fire, using fewer logs or just kindling, to gently warm the fire chamber, metal and flue," says Phil Wood. "This avoids 'shocking' the stove components and helps prevent cracking."

This matters even more if there's been a sudden cold snap, since lighting a fire in an unheated flue too aggressively can cause smoke to back up into the room rather than draw properly.

I learned the hard way that burning wet, unseasoned wood is ineffective and harmful. It burns poorly, creates excess smoke, damages your flue and blackens the glass. If your stove has never quite kicked out the heat you expected, fuel moisture content is usually the culprit.

"Use kiln dried or seasoned hardwoods with a moisture content of less than 20%," advises Phil Wood. "Look for the Woodsure 'Ready to Burn' label, which guarantees a moisture content between 12-20%."

There's now a ban on the retail sale of unseasoned wood in the UK in volumes under 2 cubic metres, so smaller pre-packed bags carrying this logo are an easy way to know what you're getting. Bring the wood into the home to dry out further before the cooler, wetter months arrive, and you'll need fewer logs for the same heat too, which is no bad thing for the wallet.

Once your stove's clean, serviced and ready to go, it's worth thinking about how to get the most out of it too. Our guide to the best stove fans explains how they circulate heat around a room and cut down on cold spots.

While sleek and subtle is all well and good, for a long time now the world of interior design has very much been dominated by 'quiet luxury' – in short, colours, finishes and furniture that are focused on creating understated elegance that whispers rather than shouts.

The thing is, however easy to live with this look might be, it can be difficult to make much of a statement when sticking to this pared-back approach – and, perhaps as something of backlash towards all this restraint, it seems that interior design trends are now veering towards something more expressive – which goes some way to explaining the rise in popularity of Panda Marble as a surface material.

If you love the idea of injecting a bolder element into your home with your surfaces, this could just be the perfect choice – but before you do, here's everything you need to know about this eye-catching material.

What is Panda Marble?

The clue is very much in the name as you might have guessed. Panda Marble is a type of marble featuring strong black and white detailing.

Oli Webb, director at Cullifords, elaborates. "Panda Marble is a bold, high-contrast natural stone known for its crisp white background, dramatic black veining and unmistakably modern graphic character. Its palette blends pure white, soft grey, deep black and occasional charcoal tones, often arranged in sweeping bands, diagonal strokes and ink-like mineral formations. Some slabs are cleaner and more white-dominant, while others have heavier black ribbons or more fractured movement, giving each piece its own identity."

Mike Whitfield, interiors expert at LUSSO, says that the eye-catching nature of this material is why it's creeping its way into not just current kitchen trends but throughout the home.

"Panda Marble is a stunning material, and is perfect for introducing showstopping focal points to your decor. It is an extremely distinctive natural material, which is rightfully gaining popularity due to its opulent appeal. The naturally occurring material is quarried from China, and is characterised by a beautiful white base, interlaced with bold grey and black veins."

Is Panda Marble in fashion right now?

In the fast-paced world of kitchen and bathroom trends, it can be hard to keep up with what is currently in vogue and, it has to be said, not all trends should necessarily be pounced on the moment they burst onto the scene.

But, Panda Marble is certainly one worth taking note of, and Grazzie Wilson, head of creative at Ca'Pietra, reveals why she thinks it's currently so popular.

"Panda marble is the antidote to all the very polite, whisper-quiet surfaces we have lived with for the past few years. Its oversized black veining has an almost ink-painted quality, so it brings movement and personality to a room before you have added anything else. What makes it feel particularly relevant now is that interiors are becoming more expressive again; we still want beautiful natural materials, but we want them to contribute something rather than simply sit in the background."

"It is very much a statement marble, and its appeal sits within the wider move towards more expressive surfaces in the home," agrees Oli Webb. "Take Cardi B’s kitchen, for example, where Panda White was used to create an enormous highly graphic kitchen island and backsplash.

"It shows how a strong black and white marble can become the defining feature of a room, particularly in larger kitchens or interiors where the surface is intended to lead the scheme," he explains.

Where can you use it?

Just like any type of marble, Panda Marble can be used for all kinds of surfaces within the home – but it works particularly well when the aim is to create something very distinctive, such as a splashback or kitchen island work surface.

Oli Webb feels that this type of marble works best within a modern interior scheme. "Panda White Marble is particularly well-suited to contemporary, minimalist and high-impact interiors, from feature walls and bathroom vanities to fireplace surrounds, luxury flooring, tabletops, bar tops and bespoke furniture. It can also be used for kitchen islands and lower-use worktops, although marble care should always be considered. As with any natural stone, homeowners should speak with their stone fabricator and fitter about suitability, installation requirements and the best application for their project."

Mike Whitfield is also keen to point out that it is better for some types of surfaces than others.

"Panda Marble works best as a statement. While it can be used for flooring, its distinctive characteristics can mean that it can become overwhelming when used excessively in a space. Instead, incorporate it in key elements, such as a freestanding bath or basin, or as a bold work surface or splashback in a kitchen," he suggests. "And do remember that marble kitchen surfaces need to be sealed on a yearly basis to prevent the porous material from becoming stained or damaged."

When is Panda Mable a bad idea?

While Panda Marble has many uses, Camilla Masi, interior designer at Otto Tiles & Design, warns that it does need to be incorporated with care in certain areas of the home – especially if you are after a low-maintenance finish.

"I wouldn’t advise using it as flooring unless it’s honed and your stone supplier can advise on its slip rating. I also wouldn’t recommend it as a work surface if you want something that is easy to maintain. Marble worktops are beautiful, but lots of people don’t realise how much upkeep they involve. Marble is a luxurious natural stone, and is very porous.

"I always advise against a dark work surface as they catch so much dust and lint that shows up especially when the sunlight hits," adds Camilla. "You don’t get that same lint accumulation on a vertical splashback so, for me, that’s where I’d use Panda Marble – as a real statement splashback, running from worktop-to-ceiling in a kitchen, or vanity-to-ceiling in a bathroom. It would also look fantastic on the walls of a shower enclosure."

Maintenance and slip-ratings aside, you also need to consider how the very prominent markings of this type of marble will work as part of your wider interior scheme. Grazzie Wilson has some tips here.

"In a bathroom, I would resist using Panda Marble on every available surface. It is far more powerful when given a clearly defined role: across one shower wall, behind a vanity, around a bath or as a bold slab-style splashback. The pattern needs enough uninterrupted space to be properly appreciated, so think carefully about where grout lines, brassware and sanitaryware will intersect with the veining. I would also avoid the obvious temptation to make everything else black and white. That can quickly feel rather hard and overly coordinated."

What finishes and materials pair well with it?

Panda Mable is a visually striking material. While this is what draws many people to it, in order for it to stand out, without overwhelming your kitchen design or whichever space you are using it within, it is important to understand the colours and finishes that it sits well alongside.

"When working with a stone like this, I’d recommend keeping the rest of the scheme quite pared back – the monochrome palette of Panda Marble can feel visually cold so, for me, the success of it within a scheme is about how you balance it and add warmth, so the room feels rich and layered rather than stark and minimalist," says Camilla Masi.

"In a kitchen, I’d pair it with rich walnut cabinetry, perhaps some creamy, off-white zellige, and aged brass hardware. I’d also have natural linen roman blinds, or a sheer café curtain, and add rattan pendant lights or wall sconces. I’d use essentially the same palette in a bathroom, and definitely add greenery."

Grazzie Wilson agrees that Panda Marble sits best alongside warm, natural materials. "It becomes much more interesting alongside warmer, quieter materials – aged brass, dark timber, softly-coloured plaster or a chalky neutral tile – this takes the graphic edge off it without diluting its impact. Let the stone be the slightly wild thing in the room. It doesn’t need every other finish trying to match its energy."

Is panda marble expensive and what are the alternatives?

The cost of a renovation or remodel can soon spiral, so any material you are considering introducing needs to included within your budget.

Panda Marble might look stunning, but it is not necessarily the best option if you are working to a very tight budget, as Alex Woods, bathroom expert at Victorian Plumbing explains.

"Panda marble sits towards the higher end of the price range due to its distinctive colouring, dramatic veining and premium finish. It can be more expensive than more common marble varieties, such as Carrara, as well as granite. For those looking to achieve a similar look at a lower price point, ceramic and porcelain tiles with panda marble-inspired styling can be a good alternative."

"It’s a premium marble, so it will generally be more expensive than something like quartz or standard ceramic or porcelain surfaces," picks up Camilla Masi. "Rarer marbles tend to cost more than more common varieties such as Carrara, with the price depending on the veining, where the stone is from (Italian marble is more expensive than Turkish or Chinese, for example), the size of the slab and the work involved."

Expect to pay from around £600/m2.

Shop Panda Marble-effect alternatives

FAQs

Does marble make a good worktop material?

While there is no denying the visual impact Panda Marble can have on a kitchen when used as a worktop material, it is important to be aware of its care and maintenance needs.

"Using Panda Marble for surfaces such as countertops and kitchen islands will instantly give any kitchen a striking feel. However, when used in these higher-impact areas, careful maintenance is required, as it can be more prone to scratching," points out Alex Woods.

"You need to understand the sealing requirements and ongoing maintenance, which may include annual resealing, depending on your supplier’s advice," adds Camilla Masi. "Even when sealed, it can still etch and stain in a high traffic area, leaving the dark parts in particular looking cloudy."

While Panda Marble is a beautiful way to make a statement, if you are after a kitchen worktop on a budget, there might be better alternatives out there – many laminate worktops have come on in leaps and bounds over the past few years, for example and may be a more cost-effective solution for you.

With plug-in solar panels now legalised, you might be keen to rush out and add some to your home. But, could you be jumping the gun?

While they may not need planning permission or Building Regulations approval, plug-in solar panels still need careful consideration before you plug them in, and that includes asking if they will change your home insurance requirements.

We asked insurance experts some key questions regarding plug-in solar panels and what you need to do regarding your home insurance. Here's what they said.

1. Will my home insurance cover plug-in solar panels?

Although the general consensus is that you won't need a separate policy for your plug-in solar panels, it's better to disclose them than just assume they are covered.

“Plug-in solar panels are usually/may be covered by home insurance, but it’s likely that you’ll need to tell your insurer about them in order to be protected," explains Nathan Blackler, home insurance expert at Go.Compare.

"These panels feed energy straight into your property's electrical circuit, meaning you are installing a mini power station to your home. In fact, if you don’t tell your insurer that you’re using them and then suffer an electrical fire or fault, you could actually invalidate your policy," he warns.

"So, while they are usually protected, it’s important that you communicate with your insure as failing to notify them about a new electrical installation could affect a future claim."

2. Will only certain suppliers and panels be covered by my home insurance?

First and foremost, the main thing you need to do before purchasing plug-in solar panels is to check that they are legally compliant with the UK regulations. Only those that can provide proof they meet the newly launched standards will stand a chance of being covered.

“As plug-in solar panels are new to the UK market, you must ensure that you buy a compliant product, as only panels that meet the new government specifications will be permitted for use," says Alex Cross, chief customer officer at Tesco Insurance.

"We’ve seen uncertified or poor-quality products cause serious safety issues when it comes to other household items, so making these checks before you purchase is one of the simplest ways to reduce this risk."

If you are unsure about the supplier you are considering using, you are looking for proof that the panels have been assessed by the Energy Networks Association (ENA), are deemed compliant for use by Distribution Network Operators (DNOs).

Shop for compliant plug-in solar panel kits

3. Will plug-in solar panels fall under contents or building insurance?

“Currently, plug-in solar panels typically meet the definition of contents, meaning they would usually be covered under a standard contents insurance policy in the same way as other household items," says Alex Cross.

However, as with any changes or home improvements you make, it's always worth checking in with your current provider to ensure you are fully covered.

"While traditional solar panels are usually part of your buildings insurance, plug-in solar panels will likely fall under the contents insurance policy," takes up Nathan Blackler. "This is because they are classed as portable equipment since they aren’t permanently fixed down into place. Again though, you should clarify this with your insurer.

"Homeowners should also check whether their policy has any exclusions for items kept outdoors, as well as any single-item limits that could affect how much they'd receive if a panel was stolen," he adds.

As when renovating your home and wondering if you need separate renovation insurance, or asking what DIY projects can invalidate your home insurance, checking before you purchase or start installation of your plug-in solar panels can save any problems if issues were to arise in the future.

4. What happens if my panels are stolen?

While items stored outside are normally covered by your insurance, there may be conditions in place such as making sure expensive bikes are stored in an appropriate places, including sheds with good security.

However, as solar panels need daylight to work, this isn't feasible. And, while they will be wall- or floor-mounted and attached to a stand, what happens if they are stolen?

“As with any item kept outside the home, such as on a balcony or in a garden, plug-in solar panels can be a target for theft," picks up Alex Cross. “Many policies apply different conditions to items kept outside the home compared to those kept indoors, and some may only cover theft from outside in certain circumstances, so it’s important to check your policy wording before you install a panel rather than after something goes wrong."

“Your best option will likely be to contact your insurer to check if you’ll be covered in this scenario, and if not, ask if there’s anything you can add to your policy to get the protection you need," says Nathan Blackler.

“There are a lot of variables involved that could impact whether you’re covered. For instance, where exactly you’re keeping the panels and how secure they are. Some contents insurance policies protect against theft of possessions out of the home, although you might need to add personal possessions cover as an add-on in order to get this protection," he continues.

"But even with this cover, there could be technicalities around how secure the panels are. These are all reasons why you’ll need to discuss your own circumstances with your insurer."

Alex offers some additional tips to make sure you are protected as best you can be. “Taking sensible steps to secure the panel, such as using the fixings or locking mechanisms recommended by the manufacturer, can help reduce the risk of theft," he says.

“We’d also recommend keeping your receipt, a note of the serial number and a photo of the panel, as having these to hand can make the claims process smoother if you ever need to make one.”

5. What if the plug-in panels cause damage to my home?

While in theory, there should be no risk of damage if you have correctly installed your plug-in solar panels, before you do install them, it's important to ask yourself the following questions to help mitigate the risk of damage.

If the panels are being wall-mounted on a garden wall, is the wall strong enough to withstand the panels moving in high winds or storms? It's worth noting that the plug-in panels recently launched by Octopus Energy for example are full-size ones, weighing around 22kg per panel.

What is the wall you are mounting them to made of? According to Octopus Energy, you need to reconsider if you were thinking of attaching them to a wooden fence – not least of all because of the weight of the panels.

"The new planning rules mean plug-in solar can't be installed under permitted development on wooden fences, gates, walls, balconies or enclosures," says the advice on their website. "The rules around timber sheds aren't completely clear, so we recommend checking with your local planning authority before installing on a wooden structure or avoid mounting on this material all together."

When using the floor mount, you also need to make sure you have something such as gravel or bricks that is heavy enough to hold the mount down. A sheltered area may also be beneficial but again, think about stormy weather and what's close by if the panels did shift in any direction.

Electrical issues

Although plug-in panels are being positioned as an easy DIY solar solution, it's worth remembering that this then puts the onus on you as the homeowner to have completed the necessary due diligence and installed them safely. Unlike standard solar panel installation where the responsibility lies with the installer, with plug-in panels, that's not the case.

Not all homes are suitable for plug-in panels, so you need to establish if yours is or not – this will be particularly important if you're considering adding them when rennovating a house. If you're unsure in any way, it's always worth speaking to an electrician.

And, while there is no major re-wiring or electrical work involved if your home is deemed to be suitable, what happens if they do play havoc and you end up with electrical problems you didn't have before?

“Depending on your level of cover and the circumstances, damage to the fabric of your home, including its wiring and electrics, would typically fall under buildings insurance. Some types of damage may only be covered if you have accidental damage cover, so it’s worth checking what your policy includes," says Alex Cross.

“Where the panel was bought and how it was installed and used may also be considered. Using a product that doesn’t meet the new specification or not following the manufacturer’s guidance could affect a claim, which is why it’s important to choose a compliant product and check your home’s electrics are suitable,” he adds.

Faulty panels

If the issue arises as a result of a faulty panel, Nathan offers this advice:

“If a faulty panel damages your home, your insurer may cover the resulting damage depending on the circumstances and the terms of your policy. In some cases, they may then seek to recover costs from the manufacturer if the product is found to be defective.

"Make sure you keep the receipt for the device so that you have proof of purchase and gather as much evidence as possible that the device caused the damage," he continues. "Taking photos before attempting any repairs is often a good way of doing this. Remember this often doesn’t apply if the damage was caused by negligence or misuse, so make sure you install and maintain the panels properly; otherwise, you might not be able to claim back the costs."

6. When could plug-in panels invalidate my home insurance?

While following the above advice should help steer you away from any major risks regarding solar panels and home insurance, our experts do advice extra caution in two scenarios.

Renters and those in leasehold properties should exercise caution

“Renters and leaseholders should check with their landlord or freeholder before installing a panel, particularly in multi-occupancy buildings," says Alex Cross.

“Once that’s been checked and the necessary approval received, it’s also a good opportunity for consumers to review their insurance policy. People who rent often assume they don’t need cover since they don’t own the property, but contents insurance is designed to protect the possessions inside it, from everyday items to bigger purchases. Cover and any limits that apply can vary between providers, so it’s worth checking your policy wording to make sure you’re covered.”

7. Will I need to declare plug-in solar panels as a valuable item?

“Many contents policies have a single item limit, which is the maximum amount that will be paid out for any one item unless it has been listed separately on the policy," is the advice of Alex Cross.

"Since a typical plug-in solar panel costs around £400, it may fall within that existing limit, but it’s worth checking your current cover."

8. Will it make my insurance premiums higher?

Concerned your insurance costs might rise if you declare plug-in solar panels to your provider? Nathan Blacker says it's not something he has seen at the moment, but that this may change.

“It's unlikely that every insurer will treat plug-in solar panels the same way. Some may simply note them on your policy, while others could factor them into their assessment of risk. However, because the technology is relatively new to the mass market, insurers are still gathering the data necessary to effectively price against it, so you could see more fluctuations further down the line.”

While the above advice should help you decide how to progress with your home insurer, it's also worth being careful about where you install your plug-in solar panels if you have neighbours.

As the full-size panels on the ground, or on a wall, may be seen from surrounding properties, you'll want to avoid the risk of neighbour disputes. And, if you own a listed building, you'll need to also check there aren't any restrictions that prevent them being placed in the curtilage of your home.

Want to get the lowdown on composting? There are tons of benefits to learning how to compost at home, not to mention it's easy and really quite enjoyable once you know how.

Perhaps you're trying to cut down on the amount of household waste you throw away. Maybe you're keen to come up with your own homemade, peat-free alternative to do your bit to protect fragile peatland habitats. Or, perhaps you'd simply like to save money on soil improvers, fertilisers, and material for mulching by giving your garden an all-natural boost.

Whatever your reasons, composting can be done in all kinds of plots – even in very small gardens. In fact, even if you don't have a garden, you can still follow the same method on a smaller scale. Simply use a kitchen compost bin to make compost for window boxes and container plants.

How do you make compost yourself?

1. Layer it: Speed up the compost process by layering your compost heap or bin correctly: line the bottom with straw, twigs, or even old newspaper, then alternate green and brown (or wet and dry) materials. Veggie peelings, tea bags, and food scraps count as wet, whereas leaves, twigs, and wood ash or pellets count as dry.
2. Feed it: Your compost will be more nutrient rich and will mature quicker if you add a nitrogen-rich feed or well-rotted manure.
3. Water it: It might sound strange, but it's good practice to 'water' your compost to prevent it from drying out – rain water is fine, or you can lightly hose it. Just make sure that it's not soaking wet. You'll find more info on this below.
4. Turn it: Turn your compost regularly (also see below) – about once a month. This introduces the air needed to speed up the composting process.
5. Put a lid on it: Lots of rain will cool the compost heap down and slow the composting process so it’s important to keep it covered. If using a compost bin, cover it with the lid provided.

Compost bins to consider

How do I choose and position a compost bin?

First, you'll need a sturdy lidded compost bin. Choosing the correct compost bin is crucial to correct composting. Ideally, you want a bin that's made from metal or wood.

However, plastic ‘Dalek’ bins (which have an open base, a fitted plastic lid and a sliding front access hatch) work well for small gardens and are easier to use than traditional wooden ones. They can also be used for ‘continuous composting’ – where you add green waste at the top and dig rotted compost out at the bottom.

A garden compost bin should ideally have ventilation (think a slatted construction, for instance), and contact with the ground.

"An earth base allows drainage and access to soil organisms, but if you have to compost on a hard surface, then add a spadeful of soil to the compost bin," advises the RHS. It should also have a cover to protect your compost from the rain, or you'll end up with a mixture that is too wet.

If it's a kitchen composting bin, place it away from direct sunlight – under the sink is ideal. Add a layer of garden soil to the bottom of the bin to help the composting process. Whether it's an indoor or outdoor compost bin, the larger the better.

It's also possible to make compost without a bin and use a shady corner of the garden instead. Ideally, choose an area covered by a tree or some sort of canopy to protect it from the rain and protect it from rats and mice.

What can you put in a compost bin?

The best way to create good compost is with a wide range of green and brown waste materials. Layer up green material (grass, deadheadings, kitchen peelings, and soft prunings) with brown waste such as shredded cardboard and paper, and woody prunings cut as small as possible.

Leftover ash after firing up your BBQ is good too, but it should be cold and not contain food scraps. "Ideally, place a lot of composting materials on the heap in one go," says the RHS.

Green waste

Between a quarter and half of your compost should be organic waste, primarily from vegetables and fruit. Cut grass from your lawn and annual weeds (before they've gone to seed) are also good sources of green waste for your compost.

No-dig gardening expert Charles Dowding even adds the roots and leaves of perennial weeds such as docks, nettles, buttercups, and dandelions. "They break down even in winter's cooler heaps, and regrow only if left exposed to light," he says.

Brown waste

This is the dry waste that helps to aerate your compost and prevent it from getting too wet and rotting, as opposed to composting. Use dead, dried plants, shredded paper and cardboard. But bear in mind that too much brown waste in your compost should be avoided, otherwise you won't get the rich, soil-like compost texture in the end.

What not to include

Don't add fish, meat, bones, or dairy waste to your compost bin – you won't get the right balance of nutrients and adding this kind of waste could attract rats or mice to the heap.

Do you need to turn compost?

Some gardeners swear by turning compost, saying it's important as it adds air to the mixture, which is essential for the chemical processes that make the compost.

In fact, the RHS says that "failure to turn the heap is the main cause of poor results." Without sufficient air, the compost can be compacted, slimy, and rotting. This is often the case when you're making compost on a small scale and only add waste every so often without turning it.

So, for best results, turn your compost monthly, or as often as you can with a pitchfork. If you're making compost indoors in a small kitchen container, you can turn the contents with a long-handled kitchen utensil.

For larger outdoor compost heaps, you can also use a compost aerator to pump air into your compost. If your compost is placed in an informal pile rather than a bin, watch out for hibernating animals in autumn and winter – especially if you've introduced some biodiverse garden ideas to your plot. They may be sheltering there, having been attracted to the warmth.

However, there's another school of thought that says if you layer your compost correctly, making sure that there's ample brown waste between layers of green, you shouldn't need to turn it.

How long does it take to make compost?

It can take anywhere between several months and over a year for compost to rot down enough to be ready to be used as part of your budget garden ideas. This depends on the average temperature, the materials you're using, and how well the compost is aerated.

You'll know it's ready when it has a rich, crumbly texture, and a uniform brown colour. Compost that's ready has a fairly pleasant smell of damp earth. Not all the compost in your bin or heap will mature at the same rate though, and you may end up discarding some of it, or putting it back into the container to continue rotting as you add in new layers of waste.

FAQs

How much water should you add to your compost?

A lack of moisture will slow down or stop the decomposition of the compost, so during very dry spells, irrespective of what time of year it is, remember to add a can or two of water every now and again.

Recently mowed the lawn? Fresh grass clippings are another good material for adding moisture, as are fruit and vegetable peelings.

Getting the moisture level right can be a fine balance. If it becomes too wet, try adding some chopped woody material and shredded cardboard or paper.

What is a compost tumbler?

A compost tumbler is a sealed drum-shaped compost container on a stand, which turns on its axis with a push, or has a handle attached. With these, you place your composting material in the drum and turn the handle every two to three days. You should have rich, crumbly compost within three weeks – perfect if you're short on time and after low maintenance garden ideas.

What is worm composting?

For another speedy composting process – and handy for a household with limited outdoor space – consider worm composting. A starter kit (such as this Wiggly Wigglers one from Amazon) includes everything you need to get going, including the worms themselves.

If you're squeamish about worms, fear not, you don't have to get too close. They're very self-contained and just mind their own business, turning your kitchen waste into the richest, crumbliest compost you can imagine, along with bonus concentrated liquid fertiliser that you draw off using a tap.

By following these expert-backed steps, you'll have dark, crumbly compost in no time.

Looking for more ways to make your garden eco-friendly? You can find lots of tips in our guides to organic gardening and eco-friendly gardens.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.