There are certain, arguably less glamorous, aspects of home design that tend to get rushed, or not given the concentration they require. Yet, failing to give them the attention they really need can cause all kinds of headaches later down the line.

One of these is electrical sockets – not just in terms of their look, but also when it comes to how many you need, and where they should be placed to optimise the experience of living in your home.

While totting up how many sockets you need might not be as exciting as creating a new kitchen mood board, it must be done – luckily our guide is here to help simplify things.

How do you decide on the right number of sockets for each room?

It can be difficult to know exactly how many sockets are required in each room of your house and people often wonder if there is a minimum, or whether you can have too many.

According to Martin Garbutt, head of technical governance at Ding, it really comes down to good planning. "The ideal number of plug sockets depends on the size of the room and how you use it. As our homes become more reliant on technology, it's worth planning for the appliances and devices you'll use every day, rather than just meeting your immediate needs."

Ricki Wake, owner of Wake Electrical, agrees that when deciding on the number of electrical sockets for a space you need to look at the way you'll use the room now, as well as how your needs might change in the future, particularly if you are designing a lifetime home.

"When I’m designing an installation, I look at the layout of the room, its function and where the furniture will go. Where will the bedside tables go? Is there a desk for working from home? Will there be a TV in the room? It’s far more cost-effective to install a few extra sockets during a build or renovation rather than relying on extension leads or costly remodels later down the line," he says. "My advice is to think about how you will use the space over the next several years. Most homeowners tell me they wish they’d added more sockets, not fewer."

Obviously different rooms of the house have different requirements – for example, a tech-heavy space such as a media room will need more sockets than a children's bedroom. With this in mind, it can be useful to look at the main rooms individually, taking into consideration the appliances you plan on having in each space and how you want to use it.

Always add extra in kitchens

As one of the busiest rooms in any house, it isn't just the range of electrical appliances that needs to be taken into account when it comes to designing a kitchen. Rather than specifying an exact amount of sockets for this room, the experts advise planning this around both the kitchen appliances you want, and the activities you expect to take place here. Many people use this as somewhere to work from home, for the children to do their homework and, lets not forget, as somewhere to charge up phones and other devices.

"The kitchen is usually the most power-hungry room in the house," picks up Martin Garbutt. "This is why it's is normally fed on a separate circuit to the rest of the property, due to the additional load that can be drawn when multiple appliances are in operation."

"Plenty of sockets should be added above kitchen worktops and extra sockets anywhere people are likely to charge their phones or other devices," adds Ricki Wake.

Think about placement in living rooms

Living room design can be a tricky thing to get right – this is a space that often needs to meet multiple requirements, acting as somewhere to relax, entertain and often bring together different generations all at once. What all this means is that it is also usually home to a range of electrical appliances and various plug-in light sources, but also has be capable of providing somewhere for other electrical devices from time to time, such as chargers, games consoles and so on.

"Living rooms often contain multiple electrical devices, so 8 - 10 plug sockets is a good benchmark," advises Martin Garbutt. "Around the TV area, having four sockets (or two double sockets) provides enough connections for a television, games console, broadband router and sound system.

“Additional sockets near sofas and armchairs also make it easier to charge devices or power floor lamps, without relying on extension leads," adds Martin."

Don't under-estimate in bedrooms

Bedrooms often get overlooked when it comes to the provision of electrical sockets but this really is a space that you don't want extension leads trailing all over the place, ruining what should be a relaxing ambience.

"In most cases, I’d recommend your bedroom design should account for a double socket either side of the bed, and then one or two more sockets in other locations," says Ricki Wake.

Martin Garbutt suggests including a little more than this though. "Six to eight plug sockets is generally sufficient for most bedrooms. A double socket on each side of the bed is ideal for bedside lamps and phone chargers, while additional sockets near a dressing table can accommodate hair styling appliances, such as straighteners and hairdryers."

Plan for the future in home offices

You home office design needs to take into account the kind of work that will be undertaken there – if you work from home on a daily basis, your needs are going to be very different from someone who is creating a space simply to carry out some admin from time-to-time.

"A home office will typically need between six and eight sockets," says Martin Garbutt. "A desktop computer, monitor, printer and desk lamp can quickly use four outlets, so it's worth allowing extra capacity for chargers or future equipment, rather than relying on extension leads."

As a general rule, this is the space to incorporate more sockets that you actually think you'll need – it is far easier to incorporate them from the outset than it is to add them later down the line.

Where is the best position for electrical sockets?

Almost as important as the number of electrical sockets you install within a room is their positioning. The key to getting this spot on is to have a really clear idea of how you plan on using each space.

"When planning socket locations, think about where you'll naturally use electrical devices," picks up Martin Garbutt. "Corners are useful for lamps, fans and seasonal decorations, while sockets should also be positioned close to desks, seating areas and entertainment units or media walls. It's equally important to avoid placing sockets too close to doorways, where trailing cables could become a trip hazard."

Remember, it isn't just walls that can take electrical sockets – in some cases, it can make sense to fit them within worktops, the kitchen island and even in the floor.

How do you choose the right types of socket for each room?

The two most common types of electrical socket are double or single, but these days there are all kinds of other options available too.

Perhaps the most notable are smart sockets that connect to your WiFi and can be controlled via an app on your smart device, much like smart plugs. These are particularly handy for hard-to-reach areas of the house, such as behind heavy furniture – plus they let you check whether you have left any appliances on, even when you are out.

Another type of socket that really does come in handy these days is the USB socket which, as the name suggests, features outlets for plugging in USB devices such as smartphones and tablets – perfect for home offices and teen bedrooms.

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What happens if you need to add sockets at a later date?

Unless you are self building or building an extension, the chances are that you'll need to retrofit some electrical sockets.

Ricki Wake explains what's involved with this job. "Retrofitting can be fairly straightforward, although it does depend on the construction of the house and where the new sockets are located. Stud walls with plasterboard are generally easier to access and less time-consuming than solid/brick or block walls.

"We can often keep disruption to a minimum, but some chasing and making good may be needed," continues Ricki. "I would ask the electrician if they are happy to make good; we do this as standard, and it is really appreciated.

"As a rough guide, adding a standard white plastic socket would usually be around £100–£200 per point, depending on access and how much making good is required," adds Ricki.

And, finally, if you were worried that adding sockets might mean your existing circuits will need upgrading, Ricki has some good news. "The additional load from a few extra sockets generally isn’t an issue, as long as the existing circuits have been designed appropriately. We would check this by testing the circuit before the works commence and advise accordingly."

FAQs

Do you need building regulations for more electrical sockets?

As with so many home alterations and upgrades, the building regulations need to be observed when adding new electrical sockets.

"Electricians in the UK must comply with the BS 7671 (the IET & BSI Wiring Regulations), although there is no set number of sockets based on room size," explains Ricki Wake. "For new-build homes, Approved Document M guidance states sockets must be installed with their centre between 450mm and 1200mm above finished floor level."

"Where sockets are installed above kitchen worktops, they should typically be positioned around 150mm above the surface to help protect them from damage and splashes," adds Martin Garbutt.

Finally, if you are having additional sockets added to a circuit, it is a good idea to ask your electrician to issue you with a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate.

How can you disguise electrical sockets?

If you are stuck with electrical sockets that are doing little for your house design ideas, there are several steps you can take to hide them.

One way is to paint them to match your wall colour. Alternatively, locating them behind furniture or easy-to-move accessories works well.

If you are happy to spend a little money, though, there are now plenty of attractive socket options out there, from slim-profiled designs in a range of brushed metallic finishes, to those that can be colour matched to your walls.

Don't forget to think about the quantity and positioning of electrical sockets in circulation spaces too – your hallway design and landing will definitely benefit. Given the central positions these areas often occupy in a house, they are the perfect place for plugging in appliances such as vacuums, as well as plug-in hallway lighting to brighten dark corners.

Since the introduction of the Feed In Tariff in 2010 solar photovoltaic (PV) panels have become ever more popular with self-builders and homeowners, and legislation has now followed suit with the Future Homes Standard dictating that all new-build homes will require the equivalent of 40% of the floor area in PV panels on the roof.

However, while free energy is clearly a good thing, solar panel installation still comes at a cost, and in order to reap the rewards of investment, you need to make sure you optimise the energy generated. And therein lies the conundrum. If you don't use all the energy, what are your options?

It's a question that's become even more relevant with this year's heatwaves that have generated more solar power than normal. So should you store and use, or always sell your excess energy? Here I explain what you need to consider.

How can you sell your energy?

While the Government has legislated that all reasonably sized energy supply companies must offer to buy your excess generation under the Smart Energy Guarantee (SEG), unfortunately, they do not set any rate that must be paid.

Energy companies can therefore pay you anything from 1p/kWh - 34p/kWh (these were the variation in the different export tariffs that I could find at the time of writing). Many of the better export tariffs are tied to specified import tariffs as the energy companies don't really want you to charge up your battery at night when the energy is 7p/kWh and then sell it back to them during the day at 34p/kWh.

There are certainly a lot of different tariffs out there, so you will need to take some time and do your homework to figure out what best suits your needs. But, in order to answer the question of whether to sell or use solar energy, what do you need to take into account?

What to consider when weighing up your options

I suggest you start with your lifestyle. How much energy do you use and when do you use it? Then check how much energy you are likely to generate from the solar PV on your roof and see what options you have to try and use as much of that generation as possible.

Your smart meter, if you have one, should be able to tell you when you use the most energy. Take note of when you use different appliances and how often. It may be that you do not charge the car every day, or use the laundry appliances on a daily basis. Some activities, like cooking, will usually happen around the same time each day, but the amount of energy you use each day could also be very different.

Then, look at how much energy you could generate from your solar PV – this should be in the installer pack within the system when it was installed. You can also check your generation meter and do the maths per year on use vs generation.

On average in the south of England, you should generate around 1100 units of energy per year for every kW of capacity installed. This falls to around 600W per kW of installed capacity in northern Scotland. So, if you put 10 x 400w panels on a roof, that equates to an installed capacity of 4000W (or 4kW).

I would expect that system to generate around 4400 units of energy per year in the south of England and maybe around 2400 units in northern Scotland.

Energy across the year won't be uniform

However, you also need to remember that the energy generated as a whole is not evenly spread over the year. In winter you generate very little, and in summer you will often generate more than you can use.

What are your options for selling vs using?

The immediate solution is a solar battery, as if you have one, then you can store the excess generation from the day and use it in your home at night. But, the main question here is how big is the battery and therefore how much can it realistically store?

On my home solar PV system, especially during the recent heatwaves, I have been generating over 30kWh per day on average. The reality? A decent battery is only about 13kWh capacity, so it means I rarely use the other 17kWh per day at home because I don't have things like air conditioning, and I don't need to cook or do laundry during the daylight hours every single day.

Are smart controls an option?

Even though a washing machine, tumble dryer or dishwasher could be used during the day (even if you were not there) if it had smart controls, or was linked to a smart home system, and your EV charger could be topped up to work in the day, the reality is as soon as you have a few sunny days in a row you cannot feasibly use all the generation.

The average household simply doesn't use that much hot water, or drive that many miles (and even if you did do a lot of miles, this makes it unlikely you'd be at home every sunny day to harvest the generation).

Excess, in this instance, should therefore be sold if it's available.

Gas users could also benefit from selling energy

Redirecting energy to the hot water cylinder can be helpful, but it is also not a full solution. If you redirect the energy, but you have an EV tariff, then you are only offsetting around 7p with the cheaper rates at night. It therefore means you would be better to heat the cylinder at night, and export the excess solar PV generation for 14p.

If you have any appliances that are heated by gas, such as gas boiler for example, you are not excluded from getting SEG payments. Many of the big energy suppliers will still pay up to 15p/kWh for exported electricity.

In this scenario, as gas only costs around 8p/kWh, you would not want to direct your solar PV generation to any appliances that are heated using gas. Always check with your supplier before doing so as energy export tariffs change with every deal.

The problem vs the solution

I understand that energy companies change their tariffs all the time, but the fact is, using or selling excess energy isn't always a simple answer if you want to manage and optimise your energy costs.

If you have installed an EV charger you will likely have opted for an EV tariff at home as it will usually give you a cheap rate (around 7p/kWh for six hours every night – usually from 11.30pm until 5.30am in the morning).

The rest of the day will be at a premium rate of around 25p/kWh. Therefore, on an EV tariff, the best use of energy is to try and shift most of your electricity use to the night.

But, that has its challenges. Who wants to do laundry at that time, particularly given concerns around using tumble driers overnight? Who wants to cook dinner at that time? And heat pumps and other electrical heating systems really do not like to run in bursts, they like to be able to run low and slow across the whole day, as and when required.

The solution

In my view, what we ideally need is a solar battery that can be charged up in summer and then used in winter. However, as this doesn't yet exist, and would need to be a big and expensive battery to operate in this way, for now, looking at some other smart tariffs is perhaps the best solution.

Take the Intelligent Octopus Flux tariff as an example. This gives you two different energy rates. The peak rate is currently around 28p/kWh – 32p/kWh, but, the peak time is only three hours, from 4pm - 7pm daily.

The rest of the day (21 hours) is between 21p/kWh - 24p/kWh depending on your location. The key detail here is that they will buy back any excess generation from your solar PV system at exactly the same rates.

So, if you have a solar PV array that generates more energy per year than your household uses, then you should end up being cost neutral.

You do need to have a battery to qualify, and there are eligibility criteria that need to be complied with, but knowing what your energy needs are and then studying the available tariffs is what will really pay dividends and is the only real way to decide how much of your excess energy you should try and use, and what you should sell.

If you are reading this as part of your research before deciding if you want to install solar panels or not, find out what else you need to do to assess your energy needs and decide which renewables are right for you.

And, if you're wondering what's fact and fiction, we dive into the most common solar myths so you have the right information to hand.

There are certain areas of the home that really do have to withstand an awful lot – walls, work surfaces and, perhaps most of all, flooring.

On a daily basis, this is the surface we trample over, plonk stuff down on top of and allow our four-legged friends to lie on and shake all over – no wonder it can start to look tired and worn out quicker than other areas of the house.

Whether you are just in the process of installing new flooring and are keen not to have to repeat the task any time soon, or are wondering why your existing floors are looking scruffy before their time, we're here to reveal the top seven causes of damage to help you deal with the issue.

1. Temperature fluctuations

The reason this one is top of the list is because wildly fluctuating temperatures are becoming a real issue here in the UK and can cause all kinds of problems around the home – from windows and doors that stick in their frames to issues with flooring.

David Turner, head of product at Leader Online, explains how sudden temperature changes can affect wooden flooring in particular. "Natural wood flooring can be affected by changes in temperature and humidity, which may cause the boards to expand and contract over time."

While you can try your best to keep heat levels steady within your home by using your central heating system wisely and taking steps to keep your house cool in the summer, much of this damage can be navigated by proper installation – namely by leaving expansion gaps.

Ian Tomlinson, MD of Chaunceys Timber Flooring, explains the importance of this. "Expansion gaps are an easily overlooked detail. Wood naturally moves with changes in humidity, so without a proper gap around the room's perimeter, the floor can press against the walls and buckle. It's a small step that can prevent a big problem."

Richard Skeoch, company director at Hyperion Tiles, points out that it isn't just wooden flooring that can suffer either. "Cracks in tiles or grout can also occur when expansion and movement are not properly accounted for. Movement joints are an important part of a successful installation, particularly in larger rooms or spaces exposed to significant temperature changes."

If you are looking for an alternative to tiles or timber, LVT flooring can be a brilliant choice that withstands temperature changes really well, as Neel Bradham, CEO of flooring brand Parador, explains. "Vinyl flooring is an excellent option for homes that experience significant temperature fluctuations, as it offers far greater dimensional stability than many natural flooring materials. Quality vinyl flooring is designed to remain stable, helping to maintain a smooth and consistent surface even during periods of extreme weather."

2. Moisture levels

Excess moisture in the air and changes in humidity can also wreak havoc on your flooring.

"Moisture is one of the biggest causes of flooring damage," says David Turner. "Kitchens and hallways, in particular, are more likely to see spills, dirt and constant use, so choosing a durable, moisture-resistant option, such as LVT or porcelain tiles, can help prevent problems."

Humidity can also be an issue when it comes to installation – timber flooring, even engineered wooden flooring, shouldn't be laid until moisture levels have been checked, as Ian Tomlinson explains. "Skipping moisture checks is particularly risky as hidden dampness in the subfloor can lead to swelling, warping or cupping during acclimatisation or even months later. A good installer will always test and manage moisture levels before starting work."

Investing in the best dehumidifier you can lay your hands on is a great way to keep humidity levels in your home stable.

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3. Exposure to sunlight

Another problem that is becoming more and more prevalent in the UK, with summers getting sunnier than ever, is the damage that exposure to UV rays can cause to homes, from furniture to flooring.

"Blinds, curtains or UV filtering window treatments can help reduce direct sunlight during the brightest parts of the day," advises Adam Robertson, MD of Urbane Living, who goes on to point out that certain types of flooring are more susceptible to this kind of damage than others.

"Mid to darker shades of wood may fade slightly with prolonged UV exposure, while lighter tones can become deeper in colour. The quality of the finish also plays an important role in protecting flooring from the effects of sunlight," adds Adam. "A high quality finish helps slow the rate of colour change and provides greater long term durability."

In addition to protecting your floors with your window treatments, consider fitting solar control window film or, if specifying new windows, choose solar control glass that will filter out UV rays.

4. Poor cleaning techniques

How often and the way in which you clean your floors can have a massive effect on their longevity and can even help prevent damage. For example, the correct process of cleaning LVT avoids the use of any harsh chemicals.

"While tiled floors are relatively easy to maintain, using the wrong cleaning products can affect grout and some tile finishes over time," warns Richard Skeoch. "Avoid abrasive cleaners and always follow the manufacturer's care recommendations to help preserve the appearance and performance of your flooring for years to come."

David Turner points out that it isn't just using the wrong products that can cause damage – he says that simply neglecting to clean them often enough could lead to issues too.

"A lot of flooring damage comes down to day-to-day maintenance. Dirt and grit can act like sandpaper underfoot, gradually wearing away the surface, especially in busy parts of the home. A simple routine of regular sweeping, wiping up spills quickly, and using the right cleaner for your flooring can make a real difference to how well it lasts."

5. Heavy furniture and footfall

While we're not saying you should avoid walking on your floor or placing any furniture on it, there are a few precautions you can take to minimise damage caused by both. This one applies to all kinds of flooring, including most types of carpets.

"Heavy furniture is a common cause of damage, especially when it’s dragged across the floor instead of lifted," picks up David Turner. "This can leave scratches on hard flooring, dents in softer materials, such as vinyl, or bare patches on carpet that are difficult to repair. It’s worth fitting felt pads to the feet of sofas, tables and chairs, as they’re an inexpensive way to protect the floor and make furniture much easier to move when needed."

Along with using pads or rugs underneath furniture, such as these Furniture Pad Floor Protectors from Amazon, it is worthwhile thinking about rotating furniture. Additionally, you need to choose the right flooring for the room it is being fitted in.

"It's worth choosing flooring that's built to handle regular use in high-traffic areas," says David Turner. "Hard-wearing materials like LVT and porcelain tiles are a good choice for high-traffic spaces."

6. Using your underfloor heating wrong

There are so many reasons to love underfloor heating – not least that it frees up wall space and delivers a comfortable, consistent heat. While most types of flooring are compatible with UFH, you need to consider how you are using it if you want to avoid it doing more harm than good.

When it comes to timber flooring, there are few factors to bear in mind, according to Adam Robertson. "Engineered flooring (as opposed to solid) is usually the preferred timber option for use with underfloor heating. Its layered construction helps reduce movement caused by changes in temperature, but product specification is important. Always choose boards that are approved for use with underfloor heating and ensure the system is commissioned correctly, with gradual temperature changes. The floor temperature should not exceed 27°C, and it's generally better to maintain a consistent low temperature rather than making sudden adjustments, as this helps reduce stress on the timber while providing an excellent combination of comfort and style."

Care also needs to be taken with tiled floors, as Richard Skeoch explains. "Underfloor heating works particularly well with tiled flooring because porcelain tiles conduct heat efficiently, but the system must be installed and commissioned correctly. Sudden changes in temperature can place stress on the tiled surface, so the heating should be increased gradually after installation and appropriate flexible adhesives and grouts should be used to allow for natural movement."

If you have chosen to lay LVT, do bear in mind that the maximum temperature thresholds tend to be lower than for timber and some glue-down products might not be compatible – check with your supplier.

7. Poor installation methods

Finally, all the experts we spoke to agreed that one of the biggest flooring mistakes, and the main cause of floor damage is poor installation.

"One of the biggest mistakes we see is neglecting proper subfloor preparation. If the base isn't clean, dry and level, it can compromise both the look and longevity of the floor," warns Ian Tomlinson. "Choosing the wrong installation method is another pitfall. Nail-down, glue-down and floating-floors all have different requirements and benefits, and using the wrong approach can lead to an uneven finish or a floor that doesn't perform well. For intricate designs or specialist products, a professional fitter is worth every penny.

"Another common error is failing to acclimatise boards before installation," adds Ian. "Timber is a natural material and needs time to adjust to the room's environment. If you lay it straight away, the boards may expand or contract afterwards, causing gaps or buckling. For kiln dried boards, we recommend 10 to 14 days, while reclaimed timber may require up to four weeks. Regular moisture checks using a hygrometer and protimeter will confirm when the boards have reached their equilibrium moisture content."

Installation really matters when it comes to tiled floors too says Richard Skeoch. "Like any flooring material, their long term performance depends on choosing the right product and ensuring correct installation. Many issues that appear to be caused by the tile itself are actually the result of problems beneath the surface, such as an uneven subfloor, incorrect adhesive or insufficient preparation before installation."

FAQs

How can you keep your flooring looking good for longer?

Whether you are dealing with kitchen flooring or something soft underfoot for your living room, the cost of new flooring is nothing to be sniffed at meaning you are probably very keen to ensure that yours stays looking its best for as long as possible. Luckily, there are lots of ways of doing this.

"The best way to protect your flooring is to choose the right type of flooring for the room in the first place," says David Turner. "Simple steps such as using doormats, placing felt pads under the legs of heavy furniture to help prevent scratches and dents, and cleaning up spills as soon as they happen can all help reduce unnecessary wear. It’s also important to use cleaning products that are suitable for your specific type of flooring, as using the wrong ones can gradually affect the finish.

"The right underlay matters too – it provides extra support while improving comfort and insulation, helping to absorb the impact of everyday foot traffic," adds David. "It’s also important to choose an underlay that's suitable for your flooring type, as this can make a difference to how well the floor performs over the years."

It is clear that choosing the right products for the area they are being fitted in is key to longevity so make sure you do your research, particularly in very hardwearing rooms – for example, your kitchen flooring ideas need to be chosen with great care if you want them to stand the test of time. Hallways are another area subject to heavy traffic, so take a look at our hallway flooring ideas to help you choose a covering that will offer a longer life.

Given the important role the master bedroom has to play, offering what should be a peaceful spot to retreat to in order to find rest, it is amazing how often it gets a little neglected – I know that my own bedroom design was the very last thing we tackled when renovating.

Once we did finally get around to decorating, it was such a relief to have a beautiful space to look forward to retiring to at the end of the day – but that was well over 10 years ago and now it has begun to look rather shabby. I suspect this is largely due to my teenage daughter using it as her dressing room, and her astounding ability to direct every kind of spray, cream and ointment at the walls, curtains and carpets.

My sleep quality has also gone downhill lately, and in light of all this, I am wondering if a bedroom overhaul could be what's needed. I reached out to the experts to grill them about how to devise a colour scheme for my bedroom that will take it from scruffy to serene – here are their seven top pieces of advice.

1. Be guided by your surroundings

I have to admit to feeling a little overwhelmed when it comes to choosing a paint colour scheme for any room, often starting out with a mood board of really bold shades and ending up with something far safer (read boring). There's just so much choice and, in my job, I see so many beautiful interior schemes that making a decision becomes even harder.

Eloise Pfieffer, interior designer at Pfeiffer Design, suggests that when it comes to finding the best bedroom colours, I should use my surroundings as a starting point. "There is no single 'best' bedroom palette for a master bedroom, but we are seeing how nature and the surrounding environment of a home helps to guide design choices," she says.

"A home in a coastal location, for example, might lean into misty blues and sandy neutrals, whereas a countryside setting could inspire earthy clays and mossy greens. The key is to choose colours that feel connected to the home's context – and then opt for softer, more muted versions of your chosen shades so they remain calming and enduring."

Our house is very rural and when I look out of the window I am surrounded by greens and various shades of brown, so perhaps green bedroom ideas should be my starting point rather than simply following the latest paint trends.

2. Combine deep shades and plenty of texture in rooms with high ceilings

I've always been drawn to neutral bedroom ideas, believing an understated scheme will help foster a sense of restfulness, but maybe I'm missing a trick. My bedroom is currently painted in a soft pink with grey undertones, and the ceiling and mouldings are all white. While I actually really like the colour, we have vaulted ceilings and the whole effect is bit too lofty to feel relaxing. I asked what kind of colour schemes can help cosy up a high-ceilinged room like mine.

"For bedrooms with high ceilings, colour can help make the room feel less tall and more comfortable," picks up Cathryn Sanders, head of creative at Earthborn. "Painting the ceiling in the same colour as the walls can help bring the space together, rather than leaving a bright white ceiling sitting separately above the room. Try deeper shades in larger bedrooms, paired with natural fabrics, timber and warm lighting."

Eloise Pfeiffer also highlights the importance of texture in this instance. "For master bedrooms with tall ceilings, texture plays a vital role in anchoring the room and helping it feel cosier and more inviting. Think bed linen, ceramic lamps, tactile cushions, textured curtains and a patterned headboard. All of these smaller details add to the aesthetic and help a taller space feel more lived-in."

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3. Select shades specifically to help support rest

The colours you surround yourself with can really shape how you feel, so whether you are looking for the perfect home office colour for focus, or a relaxing shade for your living room, you need to do your research. I have really been struggling to sleep lately so am after something soothing – which shades do the experts suggest using?

"In a master bedroom, the colour should support rest first. This is the room where people want to switch off, so very bright or high-contrast schemes can sometimes feel too stimulating," explains Cathryn Sanders. "Soft greens, muted blues, warm neutrals and deeper earthy or jewel shades tend to work well because they create a bedroom that feels quieter and easier to relax in."

Ruth Mottershead, creative director at Little Greene, agrees that earthy shades are a great route to instantly unwind. "Master bedrooms should feel like a sanctuary, a space that feels calming, comforting and personal. Warm, muted neutrals and earthy tones are particularly effective, helping to create a sense of intimacy and softness within a larger space. Rich, grounding shades such as browns and natural hues have seen a real resurgence, moving away from outdated associations and becoming a key choice for creating restorative, welcoming interiors."

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4. Use a limited palette in cluttered spaces

While I wouldn't say my bedroom is cluttered, there is most definitely excess 'stuff' in there – a by-product of the vaulted ceilings which mean no loft space and, therefore, a real lack of storage. While we have done our best to make our bedroom storage ideas beautiful, with lots of wicker baskets and sneaky underbed solutions, the fact remains that there is a lot going on in this room – and I want to know if my colour scheme could help disguise this.

"If a bedroom feels cluttered or cramped, avoid using too many different colours on walls, woodwork and furniture," suggests Cathryn Sanders. "A simpler palette will usually make the room feel calmer.

"Warm off-whites, soft taupe and grey-greens can help create a more ordered backdrop, allowing bedding, furniture and artwork to sit more comfortably in the space."

5. Layer up on colour for a cosier vibe

While my bedroom feels bright and airy, I have often wondered whether it is lacking a little in the snuggly stakes. I prefer master bedroom ideas that feel a little cosier.

According to Ruth Mottershead, this could be achieved by colour layering. "Layering tonal shades is a wonderful way to add depth and warmth. Something like Little Greene's Hammock and Hammock Dark paired with softer pinks would create a gentle, harmonious palette.

"For a truly immersive feel, consider a double drenching approach, carrying colour across walls, woodwork, cabinetry and ceilings," continues Ruth. "This softens architectural boundaries and allows the room to feel more cohesive and enveloping."

6. Create a cocooning effect by colour drenching

Which brings me nicely on to this next tip – colour drenching, the concept of using the same shade all over a space, walls, ceilings, skirting, fireplaces, radiators and all.

"Colour drenching can work very well in a master bedroom," says Cathryn Sanders. "Painting the walls, ceiling, woodwork and doors in the same shade helps remove strong contrasts, which can make the room feel more settled."

Ruth Mottershead is also a fan of this approach, and suggests being bold with your colour choices if you decide to take this route and are after a cosy vibe. "Dark colours are a great way to create warmth and intimacy within any interior. Double drenching approaches allow colour to wrap around the entire room, softening boundaries and helping the eye move effortlessly through the space. This creates a sense of continuity, making the room feel calmer, more considered and often more spacious, while still retaining a feeling of warmth and character."

7. Don't forget the impact smaller details can have

Finally, according to the experts, you should not be overlooking the smaller details when in comes to your master bedroom colour schemes – they can have a bigger impact than you might think. Even tasks like painting skirting boards a new colour could help.

"Paint is one of the easiest ways to update a bedroom without buying new furniture," picks up Cathryn Sanders. "Repainting the walls can change the whole feel of the room, but smaller updates can be just as effective. Painted bedside tables, wardrobes, shelving or a headboard area can bring colour into the space without replacing existing pieces."

Ruth Mottershead agrees that focusing on little details can negate the need for a full redecorating project in many cases. "Even small changes can have a significant impact, creating a more cohesive and intentional feel. By working with the furniture you already have and introducing a thoughtful colour palette, you can give a bedroom a completely new sense of character without starting again."

FAQs

Does the colour advice differ for master bedrooms compared to other bedrooms?

While it might be tempting to save time and mental energy by using the same colour advice for all your bedrooms, there is a reason why master bedrooms sit apart from other sleeping spaces in a home.

"The advice for a master bedroom can differ slightly from children's bedrooms or guest bedrooms because it often needs to feel more restful for everyday use," explains Cathryn Sanders. "A guest bedroom can carry a stronger decorative idea, while a child’s room may need to be more playful and adaptable. In a master bedroom, the most successful colours are usually the ones that make the room feel calm at night and pleasant to wake up in the morning."

"Master bedrooms are often designed as a personal retreat, so the focus should be on creating a space that feels calming, restorative and reflective of the people who use it," adds Ruth Mottershead. "While all bedrooms benefit from thoughtful colour choices, a master bedroom offers the opportunity to embrace more layered and considered schemes that create a true sense of escape."

Colour aside, there are some bedroom design mistakes you need to avoid at all costs – in particular, make sure you get your bedroom lighting scheme spot on or you could end up with a space that feels cold and clinical.

TikTok is full of tempting quick DIY fixes, short sound bites, time-saving tricks, hacks and shortcuts. Everyone wants to save money, and why not? But with the average video lasting around 60 seconds, how much information can really be crammed into this short space of time that took a tradesperson years to learn?

Something simple might work, but for any serious DIY tasks, short-form video simply skips over too many of the important parts. And what about credibility? What makes them an expert? You really need to pick and choose what you watch before diving in.

There’s plenty of DIY tips on social media in general for home renovations that I think should be consigned to the bin. Here are a few of my personal pet hates, backed-up by others in the know.

1. Sock for painting spindles

I’ve seen this DIY advice/hack not just on TikTok, but across other platforms as well. Personally, I’m not a fan. It seems like a smart idea, but it definitely doesn't do a better job than a decent paintbrush or mini roller (for flat surfaces). I've tried it, and I won't ever be trying it again. It's no quicker, creates a mess, and the finish is no better.

Lucy Steele, senior brand manager and resident colour expert at Valspar Paint, agrees. “Socks absorb far more paint than a brush and releases it much less evenly, so you often end up using significantly more paint than you actually need.

“Not only does this create more mess," she confirms, "but it can also mean buying extra paint to finish the job, making what seems like a money-saving hack more expensive in the long run."

A sock doesn't give as much control over application either. “A sock tends to deposit paint in patches, and can push excess paint into grooves and decorative details," warns Lucy, which can easily lead to paint runs and a streaky finish.

Some might disagree, but I say avoid. Get a small trim brush such as this Harris Trade Fine Tip Emulsion & Gloss Paint Brush from Amazon instead and take your time. "Two light coats with a brush will always produce a smoother, more durable finish,” confirms Lucy.

On the other hand, one DIY trick that does seem to work for the Homebuilding & Renovating team is a tanning mitt. Brand director, Laura Crombie swears by this for painting fiddly areas, if want to try something else other than a paintbrush or roller.

Shop these products to help get your DIY right

2. Safety last rather than safety first

Safety gear often seems to be an afterthought when tackling DIY tasks for a lot of TikTokers. Not sure why; I've seen people working with angle grinders, sparks everywhere. I've seen people trying to break up concrete with power tools. Wearing goggles? Of course not. At the most they may be wearing gloves.

Paul McFadyen, chairman and resident metals specialist at Metals4U, reinforces why this is never a good idea. "Angle grinders can be incredibly useful tools for renovation projects, but they need to be handled with extreme care, and often on TikTok we see people encouraging bad and extremely dangerous practices.

“If a disc catches or shatters while cutting, fragments can be projected at high speed, potentially causing serious injury," he warns.

"Before starting any job, make sure you're using the correct disc for the material, inspect it for signs of damage, wear appropriate PPE including gloves, eye, and hearing protection, and only take on work you feel confident carrying out safely," says Paul.

3. Painting worktops is false economy

A quick and cheap refresh is very tempting. What you'll typically see on TikTok are before-and-after shots, not what it looks like 12 months down the line. Painting worktops is a short-term solution, even if done well. It's something you can do if selling your house and need an instant refresh, but it won't offer you a long-term solution.

For a start, laminate worktops are designed to be hard-wearing, so paint doesn't bond that well. Even if you are careful and rarely put hot pans on the surface, it will need regular cleaning. Kieran Nagle, a DIY expert on Airtasker, backs this up.

"Just using a kitchen day-to-day means paint can chip quite quickly. Those little chips and cracks can collect dirt and bacteria, which isn’t ideal on a surface where you're preparing food.

“However, if you really want to paint them, make sure you're using a product specifically designed for worktops," he continues, "rather than leftover paint from the shed.”

Personally, I never paint a laminate or wooden worktop. If I want a quick and relatively cheap worktop makeover, I always use self-adhesive vinyl such as this d-c-fix Walnut Self-adhesive Vinyl Wrap from B&Q. This is easy to apply, lasts longer, has plenty of design options and the end result always looks much better.

4. Tiling on top of tiles without checking if you should

Is this the worst advice I've seen on TikTok? No. If done correctly, it can be a real time-saver; I’ve tiled over tiles, but always followed some simple rules which is rarely the case on TikTok. A lot of TikTok videos focus on the aesthetic taking the view that it looks great, so all is good. No, it's not.

As Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements points out, “videos rarely talk about ensuring that the existing tiles have been properly assessed for their integrity or for being hollow or loose."

Too much weight on a surface and the harsh reality is that everything will come tumbling down. This is even more likely if working with a plasterboard sub-base.

“I've seen tiles peel off en masse in one year due to not being checked for what you were tiling onto," confirms Angelo.

In short, get it wrong, and you're heading for a DIY disaster, and an expensive one at that. Imagine a couple of months in, and the tiles start to fall off the wall. You can't replace them, as the same problem is going to happen again. You'll need to remove the remaining new tiles, remove the old tiles, re-plaster the walls, buy new tiles, and pay to get them installed. That's not going to be cheap.

And even if a wall is fit for purpose, there's rarely any mention of the effect of the double thickness. How will this affect doorways, doors, sockets, worktops and half-tiled walls? It can be hard to create a decent aesthetic and integrate the new surface well. Double-layer floors for example can lead to trimming the bottom of doors, which is very irritating, and you could fund under-counter kitchen appliances will struggle to fit under a countertop. Be warned if you're considering this technique in your home.

5. Mixing plumbing materials the wrong way

Messing up painting a wall is a relatively easy fix, but botched plumbing can have serious and expensive consequences. I'm good with simple plumbing jobs such as replacing a tap or adding a new isolation valve like this Flat Faced Male Straight Isolating Valve from Toolstation. But I try to avoid anything more complicated before asking one of my plumbing mates; it's easy to make mistakes (as I know from experience).

"One of the biggest risks we’ve seen in the TikTok DIY community is people carrying out plumbing repairs and not understanding how different metals interact together,” expands Paul McFadyen.

“A common example is connecting older galvanised steel pipes directly to new copper pipework. This will solve the problem initially, but further down the line problems will lead to premature failure,” he warns.

If you are going to do any DIY plumbing, get expert advice before you start as generally, in classic TikTok fashion, all looks good to start, with little thought for the consequences.

“Seeking professional advice before making alterations can help avoid costly repairs and extend the lifespan of your plumbing system," advises Paul. You have been warned.

6. Confusing US advice with UK advice

It's easy to forget that there are no physical borders on social media platforms, so you can easily be watching content created in the USA. A lot of advice simply won't work, or work as well in the UK. There are distinct differences between construction methods, such as those required when building a house in the UK compared to America, so it makes sense that you check the location of the TikToker before you start following any DIY advice.

Angleo Patrizi points out a few of the more common issues to look out for. "As well as different types of building construction (timber frame vs masonry construction), there are different ways of insulating and protecting against damp, and different pipework standards.

"Something that would work fine on an American stud wall construction might not work well at all on a UK solid wall in a Victorian terrace, or a cavity wall."

Then there's terminology to think about, which can make everything more complicated. You probably know that drywall is plasterboard, but do you know what latex paint is? It's emulsion. What about baseboard? Skirting boards. All something to watch out for. And don't forget, the US use imperial measurements, not metric like the UK.

Whatever DIY project you're looking to tackle, as well as the right methods for the job, you also need to make sure have the right tools. Find out the tools I recommend for decorating, and if you're on a limited budget, these are the 5 budget power tools I'd always buy.

Certain spaces within a home are harder to work with than others. That might be down to size restrictions, awkward angles or, as is often the case, their orientation.

Whether you are renovating a house or building an extension, when it comes to designing rooms that face north, the approach you take needs to be really carefully considered if you want to ensure they don't feel gloomy and cold.

That said, there are also some advantages to north-facing rooms, so it is important to maximise these while navigating their downsides – here, designers explain exactly how to do this.

Embrace the benefits of north-facing rooms

While north-facing rooms might not enjoy all-day sun like their south-facing counterparts, there is still a lot to love about them, as Rhys Owen, founder and director at Pensaer, points out. "North-facing spaces are often treated as a problem to solve, but they have real advantages. Artists have valued north light for centuries because it is soft, gentle and consistent throughout the day."

Another huge advantage of north-facing extensions and rooms, particularly in the face of all these hot, sunny summers we are currently enjoying, is that preventing overheating is also less of an issue.

Rhys Owen explains that this provides the opportunity for using glazing more freely than in spaces that enjoy more direct sunlight. "We can often introduce more glazing without the risk of glare and overheating. Ultimately, I would embrace north light rather than fight it. A room can be softly lit without ever feeling gloomy."

Light from above is your secret weapon

The whole process of choosing windows can be complicated enough, but in the case of spaces where a lack of natural light is going to be an issue, even more consideration needs to be given. It isn't just about the quantity of light you are getting either – it needs to have the right qualities too.

"Rooflights can bring daylight deeper into the plan, particularly to the middle rooms that might otherwise become darker once a house is extended," says Rhys Owen. "At our Holmewood Gardens project (shown below), we introduced timber fins beneath rooflights to soften the daylight, add warmth and maintain privacy within an urban setting."

Zaeem Chaudhary, Chartered Architectural Technologist and director at AC Design Solution, agrees that roof glazing is hugely helpful in these instances. "For north-facing extensions, rooflights or glazed roof sections are often more effective than relying only on rear doors. With extensions, positioning them near the connection with the existing house helps bring light into the deepest part of the room. North-facing rooms often feel dark because daylight is not being carried far enough into the plan."

Maximum glazing is not always best

While we're on the topic of glazing, it might be easy to assume that taking a more-is-more approach would be the way forward when it comes to brightening up a north-facing space – not so, according to the experts.

Rhys Owen explains that the best approach is actually a multifaceted one. "If a client wants a bright, airy extension in a north-facing property, we would suggest a combination of top light, larger windows and glazed doors, as well as lighter or more reflective materials.

"That does not necessarily mean creating one enormous wall of glass, which can feel sterile and rather inhuman," adds Rhys. "Instead, framing views and breaking glazing into smaller elements often gives a room more warmth and character."

Room layouts matter more than you might think

Alongside natural light levels, you need to think about creating a space that makes the most of the light you are bringing in – one way to do this is through the room's layout. The key thing is to ensure that no natural light is being blocked.

Obviously what you intend on using the new space for will play a big part in its layout too. If you are building a north-facing kitchen extension, Zaeem Chaudhary has some advice. "The layout should keep tall kitchen units, utility rooms and storage away from key daylight paths."

In addition to keeping light pathways free, think about how the room's layout will work best with the way in which light is entering your space.

"I have a north-facing dining space at home and love working there: the light is calm, there is no glare and I get very little reflection on my screen," reveals Rhys Owen. "Dining or working areas can sit closer to the windows, while sofas and television spaces often work perfectly well further back."

Your lighting scheme will have a huge impact

It isn't just natural light that needs to be considered when creating a north-facing room that you enjoy spending time in – designing a lighting scheme that does it justice is hugely important too.

Again, a considered approach is the best one – you don't just want to fit as many lights as possible and end up with a horribly bright finish, as interior designer Melissa Denham, interior design expert at Hammonds, explains. "When you’re lacking natural light in a north-facing room, it may seem logical to add as much artificial light as possible, however it’s important to choose the right type of lighting.

"LED spotlights in the ceiling can add instant light to a darker space and should be used with a dimmer to help control the light levels from day to night," continues Melissa. "If your room has a low ceiling, stay away from pendant lights as they can visually bring the ceiling down and make the space feel cramped. Having one light in the centre creates a single pool of light, which is ineffective for lighting a whole space.

"Try spotlights that are scattered across your ceiling, specifically in the corners, instead," suggests Melissa. "By lighting the corners of your room, you will spread the focus and make it appear bigger."

It's the view of Debbie Clifford, interior designer at Lawrence Walsh, that a layered approach is always going to be best in this kind of room, using a range of sources chosen with its individual requirements in mind. "Wall lights, table lamps, floor lamps and uplighters can all be used to create focal points and to lighten gloomy corners."

Shop adjustable spotlights

A warm colour scheme is key to a cosy finish

Getting the colour of the main backdrops of your space spot on is an easy, yet massively effective way to ensure you are maximising light and achieving the feel you're aiming for.

A mistake I know I have made in my dining room design (which really misses out on natural light thanks to being in the centre of the house), is to paint it bright white, something all the designers I spoke to advised against.

"Warm off-whites, pale timber and lightly reflective finishes usually work better than brilliant white, which can appear grey in cooler northern light" explains Zaeem Chaudhary.

Debbie Clifford agrees that cool shades are best avoided in north-facing rooms. "It is best to avoid pure white and grey as they can look clinical. The best colours are warm-toned – think undertones of yellow, brown and pink to give warmth to a room and counteract the cool bluish natural light these rooms receive. Deep colours with a lot of pigment can also be used to create a cocooning effect."

FAQs

What is the best use of a north-facing room?

There are actually lots of instances where north-facing rooms can be the ideal location for certain types of spaces – namely those that will benefit from low glare, such as home offices or media rooms. With a lack of natural sunlight streaming through, you won't have to constantly be pulling down blinds or readjusting screens throughout the day.

"A north-facing room is ideal for a library, or to hang valuable artwork in too because there will be less exposure to sunlight," points out Debbie Clifford.

Rooms designed for cosying up in or that are rarely used during the day – such as snugs, nurseries or even master bedrooms – are also ideal for locating in north-facing extensions.

Many side return extensions can also suffer from a lack of natural light without the right design expertise, so be sure to talk through all the options with your chosen designer before getting started.

And, if you're looking for ways to bring more light into your north-facing room from sunnier spots within your home, take a look at these internal window ideas too.

Whether yours is a sweeping, long driveway that creates a grand approach to your home, or something more modest that simply does the job of giving you somewhere to park your vehicles off the road, the materials you use to finish it are one of the most important elements of your entire driveway design.

While aesthetics should most certainly play a part in choosing the right surface for your driveway, there are other things to take into account too – durability, maintenance and, of course, cost all need to be considered.

Resin driveways, arguably a relative newcomer on the scene, are now a hugely popular option and have an awful lot going for them. If this is something you are considering, check out what the experts have to say about their pros and cons before making your final decision.

What is a resin driveway?

One of the biggest driveway mistakes people make is to fail to do their research when it comes to materials.

It is important to begin by looking at exactly what resin driveways are – largely because there are two different types: resin-bound, and resin-bonded.

Stephen Evans, founder of Costwise UK, explains the difference between the two. "Resin-bound mixes the stone through the resin and is trowelled smooth. It is permeable, SuDS-friendly and what almost every domestic installer fits. Resin-bonded scatters stone onto a resin layer for a rougher, non-porous finish, which usually needs separate driveway drainage or planning consent."

If you are unsure which to choose, the majority of experts will point you in the direction of resin-bound, something Daniel Wickham, owner of First Impression Driveways, wholly agrees with. "Resin-bound driveways are the best because they provide a flat, strong and aesthetic finish while remaining permeable, allowing water to drain away properly."

How are resin driveways installed?

Whether you are resurfacing an existing space or turning your front garden into a driveway, you need to think about installation. Some driveway materials, such as gravel, are more straightforward to lay than others.

"Generally, resin-bound driveways are applied by creating a solid base first (usually concrete or tarmac), before mixing the resin and aggregate together and spreading evenly to create a smooth, seamless finish," explains Daniel Wickham.

"The process usually starts out with a site survey and planning stage, then whatever groundwork or preparatory base will be needed for the resin-bound surface to be installed upon is carried out, followed by the installation team laying down the raw materials of the resin-bound surface," he continues.

"In terms of timings, this largely depends on the size of the driveway and the state of your existing surface, but simple resin installations can often get completed very quickly – sometimes within days.

"Typically, following installation, you would wait until the surface was fully cured before being able to drive on it," adds Daniel. "For most, that means not using cars for at least 24 - 48 hours, although the exact timing can vary based on temperature and installer methods."

Do you need planning permission for a resin driveway?

In the majority of cases, planning permission for a driveway won't be required, although this is largely dependent on the materials you are using and how they facilitate driveway drainage, as well as the size of the driveway.

"Permeable resin-bound surfaces that let water drain through usually need no planning permission," picks up Stephen Evans. "A non-permeable surface over 5m² that drains to the road might do – and that is one of the reasons most people should be fitting resin-bound rather than resin-bonded."

Other permeable materials to consider include gravel, and certain types of block paving that allow water to drain through the joints.

How much do resin driveways cost?

When it comes to new driveway costs, resin does have some drawbacks, particularly if it is cheap driveway ideas that you are after.

According to Stephen Evans, resin driveway costs sit somewhere in the middle of driveway materials as a whole, more expensive than gravel or tarmac, but less so than block paving or imprinted concrete.

"Expect to pay £40 - £70/m² supplied and fitted, typically about £55/m²." says Stephen. "On a typical 50m² drive that's roughly £2,000 - £3,500. The single biggest swing is what is underneath: laying over a sound existing base keeps you near £40/m², and a new permeable sub-base adds roughly £25 to £45/m²."

Stephen is also keen to highlight that this investment often won't add as much value as it costs. "At £40 - £70/m² a resin drive will not add its cost back to the house price in most cases. It is money spent on kerb appeal and daily use, not an investment."

How long will a resin driveway last?

You really want to ensure your driveway ideas stand the test of time and that you won't be having to do the job again any time soon.

Most guarantees on professionally installed resin driveways fall between 10 - 20 years and, according to Daniel Wickham, this is a great option for homeowners after a long-lasting finish. "Correctly installed, with UV-stable materials, a resin driveway is long-lasting, hardwearing and resistant to significant colour fading. The main points to note are that it needs to be fitted on a solid, correctly laid sub-base by a competent installer."

Stephen Evans agrees that it all comes down to high-quality materials and good installation techniques. "It lasts well, with two real caveats. Cheaper resins that are not UV-stable can yellow or fade in sunlight, so it is worth asking specifically what resin is being used. Lighter aggregates show oil marks and moss more readily than darker blends – and bear in mind that, in some cases, the surface can feel slippery when wet."

Driveway lights for your resin driveway

What type of homes do resin driveways suit?

Practicality aside, it is important to take into account what your driveway materials will do for the kerb appeal of your home. Not all materials suit certain types of houses. For example, period style homes and cottages often sit well with gravel driveway ideas and might not suit the sleeker, more modern appearance that resin delivers.

That said, Daniel Wickham is keen to point out that, thanks to the wide range of colours and designs available, this is an option that appeals to both homeowners after modern driveway ideas, as well as those looking for something a little more classic. "There is a selection of shades and resin is compatible with both traditional or modern homes," he says.

"It offers a cleaner, more premium-looking surface than gravel or concrete, and definitely provides a more decorative finish than tarmac," adds Daniel.

FAQs

How much maintenance does a resin driveway require?

For those who like to take a hands-off approach to home maintenance, one of the main factors they will take into consideration when choosing a new driveway will be how much looking-after it requires.

This is where resin really comes into its own. For example, unlike gravel, it won't move over time, making it perfect for those after sloping driveway solutions.

"Unlike block paving it has no joints for weeds to come through," says Stephen Evans, although he goes on to point out that repairs can be tricker than with some other materials. "Block paving wins on repairability, because you can lift and relay individual blocks, while a resin repair means patching a seamless surface."

For many people, gravel is the ideal driveway material – affordable, easy and quick to install and SuDS-compliant. However, it is really helpful to look into ways to stop gravel moving if you want it to stay looking its best. And, while your driveway plans may not require planning permission, make sure you establish if they will still need to meet the requirements of driveway building regulations.

When tackling a paint project, you need to choose the right paint tool to ensure you get the best finish. Will you need a paint sprayer? Or will a brush or roller be the best choice?

In reality, I find you usually need a combination to complete a project. However, you still need to choose the right combination.

Different scenarios often dictate which paint tool is the best option. Sometimes it's easy to decide; other times it's not so simple. The best paint sprayers work well on certain surfaces, but not others; the same for rollers and brushes. Here I reveal what works well and where, so you always get the best finish.

Where to use a sprayer, brush and roller

The simple answer to 'which tool should I use?', is paintbrushes for woodwork such as skirting boards, door frames, doors, and windows. Rollers for painting walls and ceilings, and paint sprayers for cabinets, cabinet doors and fences. This is what I typically use each for, but as always, it's not that straightforward.

Brushes and rollers are typically more flexible and cost-effective than paint sprayers and can be used on interior woodwork and walls. For exterior projects, Paul Kerr, building specialist at Beatsons Building Supplies, says, “rollers can be utilised for outdoor stucco and masonry, while brushes are great for intricate deck railings or woods." Another DIY task they are commonly used for is applying wallpaper paste. Brushes are also essential for cutting in around edges.

Paint sprayers are commonly useful for more specific surfaces and jobs. Timothy Evans, founder of Tess Construction, explains out what they are ideal for. “Paint sprayers come into their own on large exterior surfaces such as fences, cladding and render, as well as spraying kitchen cabinet fronts where a factory-smooth finish is the goal.

"Sprayers are also the best choice for rough or textured surfaces where a brush or roller would struggle to get into every crevice," he adds.

Shop these paint tools for the best finish

Where not to use a sprayer, roller or brush

You can technically use a brush, roller or sprayer for any surface indoors or outdoors, but common sense directs you in a more obvious direction.

For example, Paul Kerr says, "A sprayer doesn't do well on windy days, so when using one outdoors, try to pick a gentle sunny day for it, as they can waste a lot of excess paint in overspraying.”

Timothy Evans points out where rollers aren't a suitable choice: "A roller isn’t suited to small, detailed areas where its size prevents good contact. A brush gives you maximum control here.”

Paintbrushes can be used anywhere, but again, it often makes sense to use an alternative option, as Jack Reading from exterior paint specialists, Emperor Paint, explains.

"There aren't many surfaces where you simply can't use a brush, but it becomes impractical across large areas and makes decorating a much bigger job than it needs to be.”

Pros and cons of spray, brushes and rollers

Speed of application is a key benefit for paint sprayers, which means as a general rule, a paint sprayer is the quickest tool, closely followed by a roller, with a brush typically being the slowest.

“The obvious appeal of spraying is speed, where on large enough projects it can save a lot of application time,” says Jack Reading. But, sprayers need a lot more prep time and use more paint, pushing up paint costs.

As an example, I used a 5L tin of Cuprinol Garden Shades from B&Q (watered down as recommended by the manufacturer) and this covered around 30% less than when I used a brush.

The obvious benefit of rollers is that they are more cost-effective than paint sprayers, and faster than brushes for large flat areas. However, they absorb more paint and create a mist spray when used, so you do need to make sure areas are covered before starting.

There are parts of the job where nothing beats a brush,” says Jack “You have much more control around edges, details, and awkward areas. But, a brush is always slower," he warns.

For most jobs, including cutting in, I like to use a 3-inch brush such as this ProDec Premier Trade Professional Brush from Amazon, as it holds paint well, and lets you cover more area in one go.

For applying to woodwork, I typically use a 2-inch brush, as it holds paint well, has a smooth release, and gives good coverage. For oil-based paints, I always use a natural bristle brush.

Is the preparation work the same for every painting tool?

Typically, surface preparation remains much the same whether you are using a brush, roller, or paint sprayer. For example, if painting a wall, you will need to prepare the wall for painting so it's clean, smooth and free of loose debris. The same principles will apply when preparing woodwork.

However, while you'll only need dust sheets such as these ARVO Extra Large Plastic Dust Sheets for Decorating to cover floors and furniture with brushes and rollers, more protection will be needed when spraying.

Spraying is also more time-consuming when it comes to prep, explains Paul Kerr. “You need to make sure the room is completely bare of furnishings and anything that can't be moved needs to be covered up, or apray will float all over the room/space and settle everywhere," he warns.

To avoid overspray, I use a painter's tape such as this ScotchBlue Multi-Surface Premium Masking Tape from Amazon to tape down the edges of my dust sheets.

You'll also need personal protection, especially for interior spray paint jobs notes Paul, recommending, "eye protection, a mask/respirator and some coveralls for your clothes.”

Do sprayers, brushes and rollers work with all paints?

While technically most paint types work with all paint tools, each works slightly differently.

“Brushes and rollers work with most paints, but choosing the right matches makes the job much easier for yourself," expands Jack Reading.“For brushes, synthetic bristles are best for water-based paints, while oil-based paints work well with natural or suitable synthetic brushes."

Rollers are much the same, but you will need to think about the surface they are being used on, he continues. “With rollers, smooth walls need a shorter pile, while rough surfaces need a longer pile to reach into the texture.”

Paint sprayers are different again, explains Timothy Evans. "Sprayers require paint to be thinned to the correct viscosity, and not all paints thin appropriately for spraying. Very thick masonry paints, and some specialist coatings need an airless sprayer, rather than a standard HVLP unit.”

I’ve got a standard HVLP paint sprayer - The Wagner W100 Paint sprayer - available from B&Q. I only ever use fence paint or watered-down emulsion, so effectively only water-based paints. I never bother with oil-based paints. If I do, I hire an airless sprayer. Whatever you use, make sure to check the manufacturer's dilution recommendation.

Common mistakes to avoid when choosing and using paint tools

1. Wrong roller pile

For smooth walls, it's easy, as all piles work. The shorter the pile, the smoother the finish. However, if you have a heavily textured surface, make sure to use an extra-long-pile roller to get into the gaps.

2. Thinning paint incorrectly

“A common mistake when using a paint sprayer is thinning the paint incorrectly, which causes runs or blockages,” says Timothy Evans. Always check the manufacturer's recommendations and test on an out-of-the-way area. I usually try it on a piece of waste cardboard or wallpaper first.

3. Too much paint and pressure

To get a smooth, even finish, Timothy Evans recommends avoiding overloading a paint roller. “With rollers, overloading the roller causes spatter and uneven coverage,” he explains.

“Be careful also not to apply too much pressure when applying the paint,” adds Paul Kerr, as this causes paint overload on the edges, leaving ridges of paint.

Paul's final piece of advice? "Avoid very cheap rollers as they can shed after a couple uses.”

4. Not cleaning your paint tools properly

At the end of a job, it's easy to skimp on the cleaning. But it needs to be done properly. Brushes and rollers will go stiff and not apply paint as well the next time they are used. If you can't clean your paint brushes or rollers immediately wrap them in cling film to keep moist if using the next day.

You’ll also need to think about the paint type you've used when it comes to cleaning rollers. Water-based paints are easy to clean. Run up a tap until the water runs clear, squeeze and leave to dry. Removing oil-based paints isn’t as simple. First, I use a scraper like this Purdy Contractor brush and roller cleaner from Amazon to remove as much paint as possible.

I follow this up by soaking the roller in white spirit or brush cleaner, and then squeezing the paint out. Repeat with clean white spirit until clear. To finish, I wash the roller sleeve in warm soapy water, rinse the soap out with clean water, stand it up, and leave it to dry.

For paint sprayers, pay extra attention to the nozzle. They have fine holes that can block easily, causing uneven spray patterns and a patchy finish.

Once you've taken on board this advice, find out what you’ll need for painting new plaster, painting a house and painting over water stains. Or, for paint inspiration, check out our guides on how to choose a paint colour and the latest paint trends.

As your DIY aspirations grow, so will your tool collection. Every time you take on a new DIY project, I guarantee that you'll be adding new tools to your collection. It could be something small or even perhaps a smart new power tool – but whatever it is, you need to find a space to house them.

Storing your tools correctly will extend their lifespan, even budget power tools that may not always last as long. And if your space is limited, it's not always easy finding solutions, but choosing the right location will make a big difference and stop them failing sooner than they should.

Combine this with essential and regular maintenance and your tools will be your friends for years to come. I know, because this is how I manage my own personal (and somewhat large) collection.

How to store tools

How you store your tools will have a big bearing on how long they last. Poorly stored and maintained tools will deteriorate much quicker than tools stored and maintained correctly. This means you're be replacing them sooner than you should, which will be costly in the long run. This is especially true of power tools which can involve substantial investment.

The best ways to store power tools

For individual power tools, I like to keep them stored in a hard case if at all possible. Better quality (and more expensive) power tools often come with a hard case, which is the perfect solution for ensuring they don't get bashed or broken.

“One mistake I see is people throwing different tools together in one large box,” shares Matthew O'Grady, director of Thomas Matthew Kitchens & Furniture. "What they don't realise is that every time that box is moved, the tools will knock into each other and that damages cutting edges, and can knock precision tools out of alignment.”

You can purchase hard cases separately, such as this Dewalt 18v SDS Power Tool Case Black from B&Q. However, you will need to do your online research to get a hard case that matches your power tool, especially if the manufacturer doesn't make hard cases. Generic cases like this Plastic Power Tool Storage Case are available from Amazon.

Budget-friendly power tools rarely come with a hard case (this helps keep the price down). DIY-friendly Black & Decker tools often come with a canvas carry case though, which offers a level of protection, especially from dust, and makes them easier to transport.

The alternative is to store the power tool in the cardboard box it came in. This is a short-term solution, as the box will absorb moisture and start to degrade if kept in damp or condensation-prone areas.

Ideally, you also want to store power tools (even if in hard cases) off the ground. Shelving units such as this Essentials 5-Tier Metal Garage Shelving Unit from Screwfix are a good choice.

I like to organise my power tools so I have easy access to the more frequently used ones. These are placed at shoulder height, with regularly used tools above, and the less frequently used at the bottom. However, don't overload the top shelves. Nick Smith, owner of NJS Sash Window Restoration, adds a note of caution (which I try to follow): “To help avoid injury, heavier tool boxes should be placed lower on the shelves.”

Shop these storage solutions

The correct way to store hand tools

The options for storing hand tools depends on what tools you have, what size they are and how many you have. I have various-sized toolboxes from small to large, and they are divided into specific tools, with my largest holding my decorating tools such as wallpaper brushes, rollers (for paste) etc. One of the smaller toolboxes keeps all my plumbing-related tools, such as this HAUTMEC Copper Pipe Cutter Set from Amazon.

Another small toolbox holds screwdrivers, hammers, pliers, and similar tools. My top tip is to invest in stackable toolboxes so you can neatly fit them on top of each other. Modular toolbox systems such as this Stanley Modular Rolling Toolbox from Screwfix are a reliable alternative.

Beyond toolboxes, I use plastic storage towers like this Tontarelli 3 Drawer Plastic Storage Tower Unit from Amazon as a cost-effective alternative. However, they don't last as long, but are cheap to replace. To help keep everything organised, label the drawers with a permanent marker or stickers.

If you have the space, a wall pegboard system such as this VonHaus Tool Pegboard from B&Q is also ideal for storing hand tools on the wall.

Storing the small stuff

Every DIYer has a collection of small stuff such as nails, screws, rawl plugs, and various other fixings – I know I do. Organising these makes it much easier to find what you need, when you need it.

I use a simple set of drawers such as this Really Useful Storage Drawer Unit from Amazon to store them at home. I also have a collection of small plastic bins where I store them for quick, easy access. Try something like this DIY Organiser from VonHaus. Another option is a carry case such as this DEKO Screw Storage Organiser Tool Box from Amazon which is ideal if you need to take a selection wherever you are working.

Garage or shed? The best location for storing tools

Your storage location can be dictated by circumstances. For example, I don’t have the luxury of a garage with good garage storage, so the majority of my tools are stored in my shed, with most of my power tools stored indoors.

A shed might not be the ideal solution, but if you are going to store your tools in one, Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements, says, “a shed with good shed insulation and ventilation that stores tools off the ground is okay, but cheap sheds are likely to be the worst places for metal items,” he warns.

That's why most of my power tools and a lot of my hand tools are stored inside. However, I am on the lookout for a decent shed and am thinking of investing in this Tubby 19mm Log Cabin Apex Work Shed from Dunster House as a potential solution.

But, if like me, you rely on storing your power tools indoors, what are your best options?

“Cupboards, areas under stairs or even a utility room are acceptable for tools,” advises Angelo. Advice I was already following as mine are stored under the stairs where I built my own shelving unit, especially for that reason.

“Power tools and batteries should be stored away from heaters and direct sunlight through windows," continues Angleo, a firm believer in the fact that, “dry always wins over warm, and ventilation is better than an airtight box.”

Keep the temperature constant

Wherever you store your tools, you need to think about temperature and humidity, says Nick Smith.

"A dry garage is better because the temperatures are more constant there than in a garden shed, where the temperature may be extremely hot in the summer and extremely cold in the winter. Just as you don't want your tools to be exposed to high temperatures, you also don't want to expose them to freezing temperatures," he explains.

But, there's also a bigger problem to bear in mind, warns Nick. Areas prone to moisture are the least suitable place to store tools. "Damp is of bigger concern than the temperature, as the constant presence of moisture will promote rust," he warns. "Condensation will also damage the wiring and circuitry of the tools and a tool's batteries."

A potential solution where temperature and moisture isn't always even? "Throw in a few Silica gel packs or moisture absorbers,” with your storage suggests Nick. This will help combat any moisture that does exist. “Air circulation is important," he adds, noting how a workshop that gets damp in the winter may also benefit from purchasing a small dehumidifier.

And, if you have been in a different location with your tools, (perhaps at your self-build but are living off-site and have bought them back with you), and you park on a driveway at night, Angleo Patrizi offers another warning. “Don’t store tools in a van overnight during winter," he says, "as a van gets wet and cold rather quickly, which is the quickest way to spoil a power tool.”

5 essential tips for maintaining tools

Storing tools correctly helps keep them in good condition, but constant maintenance is the key to longevity. There are a few things that I try to do after every use, no matter the tool.

1. Clean them

All tools need to be cleaned after use. Leaving dust, paint, or debris on a tool will lead to corrosion and failing parts. For example, I brush and wipe down all my power tools after use. The same goes for blades, if the tool has one. Decorating tools such as rollers and brushes need to be paint-free and left to dry.

2. Lubricate regularly

Some tools will be more obvious and easier to clean than others. For example, I have a few hand saws. I wipe them clean and use a cloth to add a thin layer of oil to help stop moisture forming on the surface. If you have exposed elements on a power tool, such as rails on a mitre saw, wipe them clean and lubricate them.

Ideally, give any moving parts like a drill chuck regular lubrication too. A squirt of WD-40 is a short-term solution. Check the manufacturer's recommendation on what lubricant to use.

3. Sharpen or replace

Any tools with a blade or cutting edge will dull over time. There are typically two options: sharpen or replace. Tools like chisels, pipe cutters, planer blades and lawnmower blades will need regular sharpening to keep working efficiently.

Blades for circular saws, mitre saws, jigsaws, reciprocating saws and angle grinder discs are easier to replace than sharpen. So always keep spare blades or discs so you can replace them when needed.

4. Battery care

A wipe and clean of contacts is simple aftercare when you swap out a battery. If you are not going to use a battery for a while, Angleo Patrizi says, “batteries should be kept charged at about 40-50% if not used for some period of time.” Personally, I wait until a battery is fully drained, charge for half the usual time of a full charge and then store it away.

5. Power cord care

Try not to wrap long power cords tightly around your elbow or arm. A music technician once told me off for doing that. Apparently it twists internal wires and shortens the life of the cable. For extension cables, it is recommended to unwind completely so there is less chance of overheating. Occasionally wipe the sockets clean and always pull out plugs by the casing, not the cable.

Keeping your tools in good condition means that you tackle a whole host of DIY projects for years to come. But, before you dive into your next project, follow my advice on the 10 DIY mistakes to avoid, and find out what essential tools you need and where to buy them.

Once a budget-friendly staple in student and rental homes, we've come across some suggestions that bamboo blinds and wind chimes could be just what we need right now.

Why? Because along with scent, careful fabric selection and using more natural ways to screen out heat, they are some of the ways Japanese homeowners have been dealing with a hot, humid environment for years – without the use of air con.

Given our own experience this summer of never-ending heatwaves, could it be time to stock up on the staples of the past and adopt these ideas in the UK? We asked experts if, and how, we can try these methods at home

What is the Japanese cooling philosopy?

The concept of Ryō Wo Toru is an ancient philosophy based on using more natural ways to create a sense of 'coolness'. But, it's not just a case of tricking the senses, there are some valuable shading and cooling methods involved too that have been around for centuries.

And, while some methods may not be entirely possible in the UK – as we simply don't have the same products available – we reached out to experts to ask how we can adapt them to suit your average home.

From simple window upgrades to DIY screens, here's what they suggest you try if you can't, or don't want to install air con in your home.

1. DIY Yoshizu screens

Yoshizu screens are commonly seen outside homes in Japan and are made of woven reeds or bamboo. Placed outside the windows, they prevent heat from ever entering into the home, therefore reducing the need to have the best cooling fans or air con units blasting out cold air all day.

Unfortunately, a quick search on the internet reveals that purchasing a traditional Japanese screen in the UK isn't an option. But, a quick chat with Steve Jenkins, Homebuilding & Renovating's DIY expert confirmed there are ways we could adapt readily available products in the UK instead.

1. The easy option

"A quick option is to unravel a bamboo screen and place it against the window with the bamboo slats vertical," says Steve. "However, the issue with this is that it's hard to find bamboo screens with a suitable height. The average height for the top of a window is around 2.5m - 3m in the UK. So even this 2m x 3m Extra Thick Bamboo Screening Roll from B&Q won't reach the top.

"A temporary solution is to use a few blocks to raise the screen off the ground to a suitable height," he suggests.

2. Hang from eaves

"Dropping a bamboo screen from the eaves is the ideal option, especially if you live in a single-storey building," says Steve. "All you need to do is add a few screw-in hooks such as these Taihuimy Screw Hooks from Amazon into the fascia board.

"Three should be enough, one each end and one in the middle for extra support," he suggests. "To make it easier to install, drill small pilot holes before inserting the screws."

3. Build a frame

"If you're a keen DIYer, you can build a wooden frame, attach a bamboo screen to it, and stand it in front of a window (ground floor only)," says Steve.

"You'll need around five/six lengths of CLS timber like this Snowdon CLS Timber 5-pack for an average-size window, 90 - 100mm wood screws and a decent mitre saw to cut the wood.

"Create a basic frame (that matches the window size), and add an extra vertical length in the middle to strengthen it," he advises. "Add three lengths – around 800 - 1000mm – to the bottom, one each side and one in the middle to act as feet to balance the frame. Finish by attaching a roll of bamboo screening to the frame."

2. Sudare – bamboo blinds

If however you prefer to tackle your cooling indoors, and don't want to adopt the method of window stacking, preferring just one layer of window covering instead, you could try using bamboo blinds, such as these Loreto Walnut & Demerara Roll Up Blinds from Blinds2Go.

But what are the pros and cons of switching to bamboo – least of all the fact it might not suit your interior design style?

Ian Rowell, head of product development at Blinds2Go explains more if you are thinking of adding them to your home, particularly in relation to where you can and can't use them.

"Bamboo is typically fine in a heatwave as long as it is kept dry. Warping in natural timbers and fibres occurs from uneven applications of heat which causes the fibres to expand at different levels across the length," he explains.

"Moisture amplifies this and could cause the blinds to distort. However, the lacquer coating used on our blinds for example, does protect them from absorbing too much heat and moisture and they make a beautiful shading solution."

But, while bamboo blinds, much like bamboo screens are generally used outside the home in Japan, "our bamboo blinds are for internal use only," says Ian. "Bamboo doesn't like damp areas, so whilst we protect the slats with the lacquer coatings, you wouldn't be able to use them in excessively wet areas like shower rooms or windows directly behind a kitchen sink where it could be splashed repeatedly."

"The biggest benefit of bamboo," he continues, "is its ecological credentials. Bamboo is incredibly strong but also very light compared to wood, which means that bigger blinds are easier to lift and operate.

"However, the processing required to turn bamboo into a workable block to cut venetian slats from is expensive, which makes them a little more expensive than PVC and timber equivalents," adds Ian.

3. Planted screens

Another technique you may see if you ever visit Japan, is plants grown on nets that again, hang outside windows and doors. While it's not something you'd see in the UK, much like DIY bamboo Yoshizu screens, you could replicate a similar concept using moveable garden planters with trellis that you position in place when the temperature increases.

Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres suggests trying the following approach.

"A 'green curtain' in the UK is a practical step if your window gets strong afternoon sun. A dense screen of leaves on a trellis cuts the heat hitting the glass and, as the plants release moisture, it makes the area right next to the window feel a bit cooler too.

"You won’t generally get Japanese-style summer intensity, but on a south or west-facing elevation it’s certainly a simple, low- tech way to take the edge off overheating while adding greenery," he states.

"For a quick, seasonal curtain, grow runner beans or climbing beans in a deep planter with a trellis or net," suggests Julian. "They’re fast, leafy and useful in the kitchen. Mix in morning glory or black-eyed Susan if you want more flowers and coverage through summer.

"For something more permanent, choose container-friendly climbers such as clematis (including compact varieties), jasmine (Jasminum officinale), star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides in milder areas), honeysuckle, or common hop for very rapid summer growth," he continues.

"Use a large, free-draining planter (ideally 30–50 cm deep), fix a sturdy trellis or horizontal wires, and plant the climber about 30–45 cm away from the wall so the roots aren’t in the dry 'rain shadow'," advises Julian. "Water and feed regularly in hot spells, tie in new shoots to build an even screen, and prune after flowering to keep things tidy and manageable."

4. Stimulate the senses

And finally, there are some easy hacks you can try if you're a believer in mind over matter. Using scent and sound is a valuable trick that can mentally make you feel less hot and bothered, and if it works, why not? I know for example whenever I hear seagulls I think of the beach, and instantly feel more relaxed.

When it comes to heat, there are a few methods you can try, some of which aren't uniquely Japanese and work perfectly well in any home.

Fūrin - cooling the mind with chimes

A Japanese fūrin is a traditional wind chime that, as with most types of wind chime, moves and makes a sound when the breeze blows. Even the slightest of breeze can cause a sound, making you instantly feel cooler knowing that the air isn't still.

Perfect for hanging inside and outside the home, just make sure they aren't too noisy if you live on a residential street. While the sound can initially be relaxing, heavier chimes can be quite noisy and could lead to neighbour complaints.

Scent and texture are worth tackling too

While designing a house that smells fresh is a wise strategy when self-building, extending or renovating, it's not to say you can't use clean, artificial scents as well to help balance the mood.

Choose eco-friendly candles in light and refreshing scents, such as mint, grass or even smells reminiscent of the sea.

And finally, when it comes to the materials you use in your home, think about lightweight fabrics in paler shades that reflect the heat. A simple switch of bedding can make the world of difference on a hot night. I changed all our bedding this year to muslin duvet sets that I found in the middle aisle at Lidl. While they're no longer available, these Cotton Muslin Duvet Cover and Pillowcase Sets from Dunelm are the same.

Although they are duvet covers, we've used them without duvets since the heatwaves began, and they've kept us far more comfortable than standard bedding ever has. Paired with my Meaco Sefte 10inch Pedestal Fan, sleeping at night hasn't been an issue at all.

Even if you decide bamboo blinds aren't for you, don't dismiss the value of a bamboo screen as a budget-friendly garden upgrade. It could be perfect for covering your garden fences while you save for new ones.

Sleep is one of the biggest pillars of our health, so it's no wonder that, in our wellness-obsessed world, more people than ever are deciding to get a 'sleep divorce'. If you're wondering what this is exactly, it's when a (happy) couple sleeps separately to get a better night's rest.

This isn't just a passing internet trend either – according to the National Bed Federation, a whopping one in six couples sleep separately, with the main reasons being snoring, fidgeting or differences in mattress preferences.

If you like the sound of an extra few hours' kip but don't have the privilege of an extra bedroom, or maybe don't want to sleep completely alone, we've found five alternatives to adapt your current bedroom ideas.

1. Lighting

The easiest way to settle the light-on, light-off debate? Investing in dimmable lamps for either side of the bed – ideally with a dimmer or directional lighting, recommends interior designer, Katie Malik.

That way, instead of illuminating the entire room with a harsh glare – waking the other person up in the process – your side of the bed will have a gentle glow, perfect for reading and settling down without disturbing them.

If you or your partner has a habit of dozing off mid-read or scroll, setting up an automated schedule is another fantastic bedroom lighting idea. With smart lighting, you can programme them to switch off or adjust to a more relaxing colour at a certain time.

Lighting picks we love

2. Temperature

Bedroom temperature is another hot debate, but one that can be solved by:

Installing smart heating: Controlled via your phone or tablet, smart heating lets you adjust independent areas of the room at the tap of a button. For example, if your bed is sandwiched between two radiators, the colder person could just have their side switched on, so the other person stays cooler. You can also set a heating schedule to avoid getting up and down in the night.

Investing in a climate-control mattress topper: These mattress toppers let you control the temperature on each side of the bed, so everyone can sleep at their preferred climate. I've been using one for six months and can highly recommend. However, a word of warning: they tend to make a gentle humming noise, but it's nothing a pair of earplugs can't solve (I like these wax ones from Amazon best).

Thinking about your heat emitters: While underfloor heating provides a gentle and consistent temperature, which is great for maintaining a steady climate, bedroom radiators may offer you greater control if you need to turn them on or off quickly.

Make temperature regulation easy with these shopping picks

3. Layout

When it comes to getting your bedroom layout right, aesthetics aren't the only thing you'll need to consider – it will need to work for your everyday sleep routine most importantly.

The person who gets the hottest should be positioned closest to the window, while the person who gets up most in the night should be nearest to the door.

Cramming your bed frame into a corner might help your bedroom look bigger, but it won't do you any favours when you have to climb over each other in the middle of the night to grab a glass of water.

It's also always a good idea to have charging cables and a bedside table on each side of the bed, not just for your bedside lighting, but also so you can take responsibility for setting your own alarms and keep all of your nighttime essentials close by.

4. Furniture

If constant fidgeting is keeping you up, then a zip-and-link mattress for your master bedroom ideas offers the perfect solution, recommends Mark Tremlett, Director of Naturalmat. Since they are two twin beds that can be connected to form one, they give you the best of both worlds and let you play it by ear depending on how the night goes.

Many brands even let you mix and match the firmness of each mattress – ideal if one person prefers a softer feel while the other needs more support. Sleep divorce aside, these beds are also a fantastic choice for guest rooms, giving you heaps of flexibility depending on who's staying.

Separate headboards can also be a game-changer for minimising movement transfer and reducing the risk of disturbing one another.

"It creates a subtle division between each side of the bed, giving both partners their own defined space while still keeping the room feeling cohesive. Upholstered headboards can also introduce softness and help absorb some sound," explains Katie Malik.

Bedroom furniture in our baskets

5. Finishing touches

Finishing touches to your bedroom decor can also be a great place to make some subtle changes to prevent a sleep divorce.

Two single duvets: "The single best change is two single duvets instead of one double. It's what they do in Scandinavia," says Samantha-Jane Agbontaen, interior designer and founder of House Designer. "No more tug of war over the covers, everyone keeps their own warmth, and you just lay a throw over the top so the bed still looks made."

If you're a cold sleeper, a 10.5–13.5 tog duvet will be your best choice, while hot sleepers should opt for a 4.5 tog.

Flooring: You might think that wood is a no-no for upstairs bedroom flooring, but it could give you a helping hand in reducing the temperature – just place a rug on the side of the cold sleeper.

Window coverings: Blackout blinds are a must-have if the morning sunlight rudely wakes you at 4am in the summer – especially if a snoring partner makes it hard to fall back to sleep.

Get the finishing touches

"Most sleep conflict comes down to four things: covers, movement, light and temperature, and every one of those has a design fix," concludes Samantha-Jane Agbontaen.

If you found this helpful, you may also want to read our guide on designing the perfect bedroom or have a browse through these bedroom layout ideas.

By the time August rolls around, my home is crying out for an autumn reset. Whether it's unwanted holiday souvenirs shoved in a drawer, or crispy plants that didn't survive the heat, a huge de-clutter is in order to get me set for the next season.

You might think of spring as the best time to get your ducks in a row, but I think the end of summer is just as important. With the excitement of summer plans front of mind, chores and cleaning are often left as an afterthought. But, as August progresses and thoughts start to slowly return to the months ahead, it's the perfect time to get things sorted before spending more time indoors.

If like me, you're keen to get your home in tip-top shape sooner rather than later, these are the five things you should prioritise decluttering, according to professional organisers.

1. Holiday souvenirs

Souvenirs can be a wonderful way to reminisce on summer adventures abroad, but if your drawers and cupboards are becoming clogged up with unwanted magnets, bottle openers and home decor that looked good on holiday – but doesn't quite fit in with your living room ideas now you're back at home – it might be time to have a rethink.

“If you’ve brought any gifts back for family or friends, make sure these get to the recipients as soon as possible to avoid cluttering up your own drawers and storage space," says Melissa Denham, interior design expert at Hammonds Furniture.

“With souvenirs for your own home, ask yourself ‘does this fit into my living space?’ or ‘does this remind me of my time on holiday?' If the answer to both is no, it’s most likely just clutter," she advises.

Top tip: If you hate the idea of your trinkets ending up in landfill, try repurposing them into something new – a postcard could become a bookmark, or a tea towel could be displayed in a frame and become artwork.

2. Clean out your wardrobe

With the change in weather imminent, it's often time to switch out summer for winter clothes – particularly if you only have a small bedroom with limited storage. Not only will this prevent your wardrobe ideas from becoming crammed with items you won’t be using, but it’s also a good opportunity to see what you already own – potentially helping you buy less in autumn.

"Start by completely clearing your wardrobe or drawer space. Use a duster to get rid of any lingering debris that inevitably will have collected since your last clean. After that, wipe both the interior and exterior of your wardrobe with a damp cloth and anti-bacterial spray to ensure its completely fresh in preparation for your autumnal attire," says Melissa Denham.

"Once all your clothing is out of your wardrobe, look through your items and decide if it’s time to say goodbye to that pair of jeans you haven’t worn in years. Stick to the rule: if you haven’t worn it in a year, donate or sell it; if you want to wear it but it’s broken, fix it; and if you wear it every year without fail, keep it!"

Shop these wardrobe decluttering essentials

3. Sort your garden furniture, toys and equipment while you can

Before you put your garden to bed this autumn, you'll want to check whether your outdoor toys, picnic equipment, camping gear and furniture are in good condition, recommends Kelly Moore, founder of Cleaning with Meaning.

“Clean and store anything you’ll use again, and donate good-quality items you don’t need anymore,” she adds.

Take a look at what garden storage you have and assess if you need to buy more. Or, perhaps your shed storage isn't up to scratch and is need of an upgrade. While the weather is still warm, it's the perfect time to upgrade what you have before the cold and damp return, and potentially damage your garden furniture.

If you’re not sure what to do with broken furniture, you could also try fixing it, upcycling it into something new, or recycling parts of it. Make sure you understand the rules for disposing of garden waste though before you pop it in your closest wheelie bin.

4. Free up bathroom storage by checking expiry dates

If your bathroom storage is feeling more cluttered than normal, the chances are, like most of us, you've stocked up on suncream and holiday-specific items over the years but never actually used them all up.

And, while it's easy to fall into the habit of buying new products every time summer comes around, throwing out old items isn't just about regaining space. Did you know that most toiletries need to be used within six to 24 months after they’re first opened? This is particularly important to follow when it comes to products such as sun protection and insect repellent. All products will have a little open jar icon on the back with a number in the middle – this number tells you how many months they can be used for after opening.

"Recycle packaging where possible and dispose of expired or unsuitable products responsibly, according to local guidance," says Kelly Moore. "Check around when you do, because some shops have recycling programmes for beauty products," she adds.

5. Refresh your kitchen cupboards

Whether it's leftover barbecue sauce or iced tea syrups you're never going to use come autumn, now is the best time to use them all up, says Kelly Moore.

While you're organising your kitchen pantry and fridge, take the opportunity to give the surfaces a wipe down and donate anything unopened and sealed to your local food bank.

"Once you've decluttered, give shelves, cupboards and storage areas a thorough clean using refillable or plant-based products. It leaves your home fresh for the new season while reducing unnecessary plastic waste," she says.

By following these five decluttering tips, your home will be refreshed and organised when autumn officially arrives, and you’ll be ready to take on the next chapter of the year.

For more expert tips, read things people with an organised porch always have to make sure you can get in from the cold quickly and efficiently once winter comes. And, if this advice has inspired you to do more, find out how the 80/20 decluttering rule helped me streamline my home.

Where home offices used to be a nice-to-have feature, these days, with more and more of us working from home, they are pretty much essential. Even if you work outside of the house, having an office space in which to do admin, store paperwork or even as a quiet area for children to do homework can really come in handy.

Personally, a dedicated work-from-home room is high on my wish-list, and my own home office design is currently centred on something set away from the main house at the bottom of the garden – although I am still at the early planning stages on this one.

Once it is actually constructed though, I am determined to make it a space I thoroughly enjoy spending time in, at the same time as it being somewhere that helps me focus and feel alert. Colour plays a huge role in how we feel and, with this in mind, I reached out to the experts to discover the shades they would recommend using in a home office. Here's what they had to say.

Certain colours – especially green – inspire calm and focus

Some colours have the ability to work on so many different levels, being able to create a sense of calm as well as to energise – and, according to the colour experts, green is one of them and should definitely appear in your home office design ideas.

"For a space in the home which needs to feel both calm and productive, the colour green is one of the most versatile and emotionally resonant colours you can introduce to a home office,' states Eloise Pfeiffer, interior designer at Pfeiffer Design. "From olive to forest green and sage, green has the power to help a space feel grounded yet fresh, relaxing and confident. Ultimately it is a great shade for home offices because it is both timeless and of the moment. It plays on the contemporary themes of biophilic and wellness-led design, both of which continue to be at the forefront in 2026 – inviting nature to connect with people in an interior setting."

Ruth Mottershead, creative director at Little Greene agrees. "Greens and earthy neutrals are wonderful choices for a workspace as they connect us with the natural world, helping to create a sense of calm and tranquillity, while cooler tones such as soft blues and greens can encourage focus and concentration."

Shop green paints

Select brighter shades to help with motivation

While you definitely want a home office to feel calming, particularly at those times when work can feel a little bit overwhelming, there is nothing to say that bright colours are off limits – they really can help pack a motivational punch. Don't forget to take into consideration your home office lighting when choosing colours – particularly those at the brighter end of the spectrum.

According to Ruth Mottershead, it's all about selecting a shade that you love. "Ultimately, the most productive spaces are those that reflect the personality of the person using them – a considered palette that feels joyful, comfortable and inspiring will help create a workspace you genuinely enjoy spending time in."

Ruth goes on to explain how to use brighter shades to boost productivity. "Vibrant colours can be a wonderful choice for a workspace, bringing a sense of optimism, energy and creativity to the room. Rather than being distracting, carefully considered brighter shades can help lift our mood and create an environment that feels motivating and uplifting – something that is particularly important when spending long periods of time working from home."

That said, Cathryn Sanders, head of creative at Earthborn, is keen to point out that sometimes a little restraint when it comes to the use of bold colours can go a long way. "Bright colours can work, but they are often better used in smaller amounts. A strong yellow or red across every wall may feel too distracting in a room where you need to concentrate. Instead, use brighter shades on a shelf, cupboard door, desk area or pinboard wall to add energy without taking over the whole room."

Stick to paler shades in compact home offices

We can't all afford to hand over a huge amount of space for a home office – but if your own is on the smaller side, colour can really help to visually expand it.

"For a small home office, lighter shades tend to work best because they help reflect available light," says Cathryn Sanders. "Warm off-whites (such as Earthborn's White Clay or Up Up Away, both available on Amazon) can make a compact room feel cleaner and more open, especially when used on both walls and woodwork."

Cathryn goes on to explain how colour drenching can help open up small spaces too. "Painting the ceiling in the same colour, or a slightly lighter version, can reduce visual breaks and help the room feel less boxed in."

Use colour changes to define an open-plan home office

Even if you can only spare a corner of the guest bedroom or an alcove within your living room for your home office, you can still create a really useful, useable office space – and, along with some clever home office layout techniques, colour can be your best friend in doing this.

"Colour can be used to define a workspace within a larger room," advises Ruth Mottershead. "Adding a contrasting or tonal shade within an alcove, or across a defined area, you can subtly zone a home office and give it its own identity, without the need for physical divides. A change in colour helps to signal a shift in function, creating a dedicated workspace while still allowing the area to feel connected and harmonious with the rest of the room."

Cathryn Sanders has some more tips on creating an open-plan home office space, including some that would work for those seeking home office spare room ideas. "Paint is a simple way to mark out a work area without adding walls or furniture. Painting the wall behind a desk, an alcove or a built-in shelving area in a different shade helps create a clear work zone. A muted green, soft blue or warm neutral will define the area while still allowing it to sit comfortably with the rest of the room."

FAQs

What paint finishes work best in a home office?

Choosing the best paint for any space is about more than just colour and paint trends – the finish you opt for matters too, so what do the experts suggest?

"An ultra matt finish can help soften light and reduce glare, which is useful if you spend a lot of time looking at a screen," says Cathryn Sanders. "For high-touch areas, such as shelves, cupboards, doors or desks, a more durable finish may be more practical."

"If your home office is a space that needs to work hard, consider choosing a durable finish," picks up Ruth Mottershead, who suggests something like Little Greene's Intelligent Matt Emulsion, available at John Lewis. "It retains a beautiful soft, flat appearance, but offers the added benefit of being wipeable and hardwearing. You need practical choices for areas where furniture, books or files sit against walls, as everyday marks, scuffs and fingerprints can then be easily cleaned away, helping the space stay looking fresh for longer."

Should I use wallpaper in a home office?

The world of wallpaper designs is huge – something I see as both a good, and a bad thing. One the one hand, the breadth of choice means there is something out there for every taste, but on the other, it can also make choosing hard – which is why I have no wallpaper in my house.

However, having gone back on forth on the topic of wallpaper vs paint for some time, I now love the idea of introducing some pattern into my new home office and, according to Ruth Mottershead, this is fantastic idea and one she would highly recommend. "Introducing a beautiful wallpaper design can transform a home office from a blank canvas into an inspiring environment, with botanical and floral patterns in particular bringing a fresh, uplifting feel."

If you are struggling to choose a wallpaper, Cathryn Sanders' advice on the shades that will aid with focus could come in handy. "Colour affects how settled and focused the room feels. For most workspaces, the best colours are those that support concentration without making the space feel too busy. Soft blues, blue-greens and muted greens work particularly well because they have a calm quality, while still bringing enough colour to stop the room feeling plain."

Colour can really come in handy when developing shared home office ideas – it can help to define each occupant's space and add individuality to the various areas within the room. Or, if like me you are considering taking your home office into the garden, take a look at the main types of garden office you have to choose from.

Driveways are one of those elements of the home that perform two very important functions. On a practical level, they provide somewhere to keep your vehicles off the road but, just as importantly, they also account for a huge portion of the overall kerb appeal of your house. In short, getting your driveway ideas spot on is kind of a big deal.

In order to create my own driveway, it was necessary to tear out the pretty cottage front garden that came with the house – a painful, but, ultimately necessary, task. All the elbow grease that was required in its creation aside, this was also a steep learning curve when it came to the world of driveway Building Regulations – it turns out you can't just do whatever you like here.

To avoid you having to stumble into the process blindly – as I did – I reached out to the experts to bring you a guide to each and every regulation you need to know about in order to create a driveway that ticks all the right boxes. The good news? There aren't too many to get your head around.

Do driveways need to comply with the Building Regulations?

Before turning my front garden into a driveway, I hadn't really thought about planning permission or Building Regulations. That might sound foolish but, according to the experts I spoke to, in many cases neither is it something homeowners need to concern themselves too much with.

Paula Higgins, chief executive of HomeOwners Alliance, explains that, in many cases, new driveways won't require any kind of permission. "A new or replacement driveway does not usually need Building Regulations approval. However, planning permission, highways approval or Building Regulations may apply depending on the work involved. The rules are particularly important where the driveway affects access to the home, drainage, retaining walls, changes in ground level or the public pavement."

Zaeem Chaudhary, director and chartered architectural technologist (MCIAT) at AC Design Solution, points out that in certain cases, however, there are a few stipulations to be aware of. "A domestic driveway does not usually require Building Regulations approval on its own, but planning, drainage, access and highway rules may still apply.

"Part M can be relevant where the driveway forms the approach to the home, particularly if changes affect gradients, steps or accessible entry," continues Zaeem. "Part H may apply where drainage, existing drains or surface-water disposal are affected."

Here, we break down each and every element of driveway design that you'll need to consider in order to comply with the regulations.

1. Driveway drainage needs early planning

Driveway drainage is one of the main factors you need to take into account in terms of ensuring you are complying with the relevant Building Regulations and planning stipulations. In fact, get the drainage right and, in many cases, driveway planning permission won't be needed.

In terms of Building Regulations, there are only certain instances where approval may be required, as Paula Higgins explains. "The driveway should not direct water onto the pavement, neighbouring land or the foundations of the house. Building Regulations may apply if drains, sewers, inspection chambers or soakaways are being installed or altered."

Paula goes on to point out that where drainage really matters is when it comes to planning permission. "Permission is unlikely to be needed where water is directed into a lawn, border or other permeable area within the property. If more than five square metres of front garden is covered with an impermeable surface and rainwater runs onto the road or into the drainage system, planning permission may be required."

2. Your driveway materials matter more than you might think

This brings us nicely on to the next point – your choice of driveway materials is about so much more than aesthetics. Of course you want them to tie into and to do justice to the front of your house and the surrounding landscaping scheme, but they also play an important practical role.

"There is no single material that has to be used, but the surface should be safe, durable and suitable for the driveway in question," explains Paula Higgins.

The good news is that there is nothing in the Building Regulations to stipulate what materials you have to use – but bear in mind that your choice will affect whether or not you require planning permission.

"Planning permission is not normally required for a new or replacement front driveway if it uses a permeable surface, such as gravel, porous asphalt or permeable block paving," says Paula.

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3. A dropped kerb requires permission

If you are creating a brand new driveway, or extending an opening, you can't just cut a hole in the pavement without some kind of permission.

While Building Regulations approval isn't necessary for dropped kerbs, you will need to seek permission from your local highway authority.

"You will normally need approval from the local highway authority before driving across a public pavement – and planning permission may also be required," points out Paula Higgins. "Rules vary between councils, so homeowners should check with both the planning and highways departments before starting work. It is also worth noting that approval for a dropped kerb does not necessarily mean that planning permission has also been granted."

4. If you're starting from scratch visibility splays need to be considered

This is where Part M of the Building Regulations could come into play, so make sure you check whether your home needs to comply. New homes and accessible homes are usually amongst those affected.

"A new access must give drivers a reasonable view of pedestrians, cyclists and approaching traffic," explains Paula Higgins. "Councils may refuse an application where visibility is obstructed by a wall, hedge, bend, junction or other feature.

"That said, there is no single visibility-splay measurement that applies to every domestic driveway," continues Paula. "The council will consider the type of road, traffic speeds, pavement width and the number of vehicles likely to use the access. Homeowners may be required to reduce the height of walls, fences or planting near the entrance."

5. If your driveway is very steep it may need levelling

Sloping driveways can throw up a few issues. Everything from the materials you choose to finish them with to the way in which you deal with surface water needs to be carefully considered to ensure they are easy to use.

The good news, as Paula Higgins points out, is that there is nothing specific in the Building Regs about gradients. "There is no single national maximum gradient for a domestic driveway. However, a steep driveway must be safe to use and should not make pedestrian access to the property worse – for example by installing steps.

"Extra care may be needed where the driveway also forms the main route to the front door, particularly for wheelchair users or people with limited mobility," adds Paula. "It is worth noting that significant changes in level or the erection of retaining walls or raised edges may require planning permission or Building Regulations approval – or both."

6. The size of your driveway matters more than you might think

The good news is that, in terms of the Building Regs, there is very little to stand in the way of you creating whatever driveway length, shape or size you heart desires.

"There is no universal, national minimum size for an existing domestic driveway," says Paula Higgins. "However, councils normally require enough room for the vehicle to park fully within the property without overhanging the pavement and local planning policies may set minimum parking-space dimensions, particularly for new homes so it is worth checking this out.

"Additionally, the council may refuse a dropped-kerb application if the front garden is not deep or wide enough to accommodate a vehicle safely," adds Paula.

7. Shared driveways come with additional requirements

If you share your driveway with another property, rather than suddenly having a whole new set of Building Regulations to deal with, it is more a case of who is responsible for what, as well as checking out any specific requirements of your local council and looking into things like fence rules before making any alterations.

"There is no separate set of Building Regulations simply because a driveway is shared," says Paula Higgins. "However, the council may consider its width, visibility, the number of homes served and whether vehicles can enter and leave safely.

"The property deeds should also be checked," continues Paula. "They may contain rights of access, restrictions on alterations and responsibilities for repair and maintenance. Planning permission or highways approval does not override these private legal rights."

FAQs

What happens if you fail to comply with driveway Building Regulations?

When it comes to making any changes or alterations to any aspect of your home, it is vital that you don't just ignore the Building Regs – the consequences can be serious – plus buying a house without Building Regulations is pretty unappealing for the majority of buyers out there too.

"The consequences depend on which rules have been breached," picks up Paula Higgins. "If controlled building work does not comply with the Building Regulations, the council can require corrective work and, in serious cases, prosecute.

"Creating or using an unauthorised vehicle crossing can also lead to highways enforcement," continues Paula. "The council may refuse to lower the kerb, require an unlawful crossing to be removed or take action where vehicles are repeatedly driven across an unstrengthened pavement.

"Finally, non-compliant work may also cause problems when selling the property, particularly where the buyer’s solicitor asks for planning permission, highways approval or Building Regulations certificates. To be on the safe side, homeowners should contact their council’s planning and highways departments before starting work."

If you are creating a new driveway, or sprucing up an existing one, it is likely you will be making some landscaping upgrades too. Make sure you understand the garden wall Building Regulations before you go building any new structures to ensure the whole area is safe and compliant.

Pattern drenching is the perfect aesthetic for maximalists or anyone who's fallen in love with a particular wallpaper and can't get enough of it on just one wall.

This daring trend – which involves using one pattern throughout a space (similarly to colour drenching) – isn't particularly new, but it's still a popular choice in many homes and is a great way to add colour, personality, and a touch of fun to an interior scheme.

If you're keen to give pattern drenching a go in your home, there are a few common mistakes you'll need to know about first, which our team of interior designers explain below.

1. Half-committing

If you're feeling nervous at the idea of covering your entire room in one pattern, you might be tempted to dip your toe into the trend by using it here and there – but Samantha-Jane Agbontaen, Interior Designer & Founder of House Designer, says this won't look any good.

"The mistake I see most is half committing. One wall and a cushion isn't pattern drenching. It just looks like you ran out of wallpaper," she says,

If you're struggling with decision fatigue and can't make up your mind about whether pattern drenching is right for your home, start with a smaller space, such as a downstairs toilet or study.

2. Choosing the wrong pattern or colour

While a print might look lovely on a sample, it's a whole different ball game when you pattern drench a room in it, as the effect becomes amplified.

With this in mind, Mirela Bajic recommends "choosing a pattern that's two notches quieter than the one you first fall in love with" so the room doesn't become too overwhelming.

"People often blame the pattern when a drenched room feels chaotic, but it's usually the colour contrast that's the problem. Tonal patterns, where the colours sit close together, create a much calmer, cocooning effect than bold, high contrast prints," she adds.

Wallpaper picks we love

3. Not including a rest wall

As we previously mentioned, half-committing to pattern drenching isn't going to do your room any favours – but you still need some sort of restpite. Whether it's a plain headboard or simple curtains, Mirela suggests having a few features that balance the pattern out.

"When every surface competes for attention, a space can quickly feel overwhelming rather than considered," says Ryan Wenham, Chartered Architect at Larsen Architecture.

"The most successful interiors still have moments of calm. Layering texture, natural materials and a restrained palette creates depth without visual noise, allowing a room to feel timeless, elegant and genuinely comfortable to live in."

4. Overlooking awkward areas

In order for pattern drenching to work, you'll need to consider every aspect of your room – including those awkward nooks, such as alcoves, shelving and built-in storage, according to Melissa Denham, interior design expert at Hammonds Furniture.

"These spaces are the perfect opportunity to introduce patterns without overwhelming the room. Adding patterned wallpaper behind open shelving or within alcoves can help create depth and visual interest while tying the wide scheme together.”

5. Not having a clear palette

Before you whip out the wallpaper and mix as many patterns as you can get your hands on, it's worth having a clear palette in mind to ensure everything ties together.

While there are no rules against combining multiple prints, Melissa Denham recommends balancing small and large designs and using colours that complement each other for a curated feel.

“One of the biggest mistakes people make when pattern drenching is assuming it’s simply a case of layering as many prints as possible into a room. This trend is more than just throwing together random patterns," she explains.

By avoiding these common pattern drenching mistakes, you'll successfully add that wow factor to your home – for all the right reasons.

For more interior advice, read our guide to colour drenching mistakes or browse or learn how to wallpaper like a professional.

After more than 15 years of delivering bespoke homes and complex renovations, I have seen first-hand that some of the biggest successes (and biggest disasters) on site often come down to one factor: how well the project is administered.

Many self-builders assume that once planning permission has been secured, technical drawings are complete and a contractor has been appointed, the builder simply turns up and gets on with the work. If you have a good contractor and a trusting relationship, surely things will be okay on your self-build project!

However, even on the best-run projects there will be changes, delays, budget decisions and moments when someone needs to make an important decision. Without a clear contractual framework and someone managing it, misunderstandings can quickly become disputes, budgets can drift and programmes can slip. This is where contract administration becomes invaluable.

What is contract administration?

In simple terms, contract administration is the process of managing a building contract throughout the life of a project. This is an important distinction because having a contract and administering a contract are two very different things.

The contract itself is the legal agreement between you and your contractor. It sets out what is being built, the agreed scope of works, payment mechanisms, timescales, responsibilities and how issues such as delays or changes should be handled.

Contract administration, meanwhile, is the process of ensuring that everyone follows those agreed procedures. Think of the contract as the rulebook and contract administration as the day-to-day management of those rules.

What is the role of a contract administrator?

The role of a contract administrator is not to take sides between contractor and self-builder. Instead, they oversee the contract fairly, ensuring decisions are properly documented, payments assessed appropriately, instructions issued correctly and the project stays aligned with the agreed scope.

Most recognised UK construction contracts, including those published by RIBA, JCT and SBCC, rely on these processes to function properly. However, the contract only works if somebody is actively administering it.

A conversation about changing a rooflight becomes interpreted as an instruction. A material substitution gets agreed informally without fully understanding the cost or performance implications. A delay occurs but nobody properly records responsibility for it.

Good contract administration helps stop those small issues becoming major problems.

Why is contract administration important?

One of the realities of building a house is that no project ever goes entirely to plan, which is why this part of the process is so important.

1. Protecting your budget

For most self-builders, how much it costs to build a house matters enormously. Yet one of the biggest sources of conflict during construction is changes to the agreed works, commonly known as variations.

What sounds like a simple design tweak can have surprisingly wide implications. For example, moving a wall may have an impact on structural steelwork, electrics and heating layouts, but also may need an amendment to the Building Regs. Upgrading glazing may require revised details elsewhere. A seemingly straightforward kitchen alteration can ripple through the programme and subcontractor coordination. Without proper procedures, these changes can become contentious very quickly.

I often see situations where something discussed casually on site is assumed by one party to have been agreed, while the other views it as a conversation rather than an instruction. This results in unexpected invoices, disagreements and strained relationships.

A properly administered contract ensures changes are clearly instructed, recorded and priced before works proceed wherever possible. That transparency protects both self-builder and contractor.

2. Maintaining quality standards

Contract administration is also about protecting quality. Even experienced contractors can sometimes deviate from drawings or specifications, often with good intentions. Perhaps a material becomes unavailable. A subcontractor proposes an alternative approach. Or someone makes a judgement call on site to ‘improve’ a detail. Sometimes those changes are harmless – other times they are not.

On high-performance eco homes in particular, relatively minor changes can have significant consequences. Substituting insulation products, changing window specifications or altering airtightness detailing are all things that may compromise thermal performance in ways that are not immediately visible.

Likewise, structural or compliance-related changes may create issues later with certification, warranties or mortgageability. Good contract administration helps ensure that the standards that were agreed upon are actually delivered.

3. Keeping the project moving

Delays happen on almost every build. Bad weather, late information, supply chain issues or unforeseen site conditions can all affect progress. The problem
is not necessarily the delay itself – it is how that delay is managed.

Standard contracts include mechanisms for handling extensions of time, helping establish whether delays are legitimate and what impact they should have on completion. Without a clear process, frustrations can quickly escalate.

Self-builders may feel contractors are dragging their feet, while contractors may feel they are being blamed for matters beyond their control. Contract administration introduces structure into what can otherwise become a very emotional discussion.

4. Avoiding disputes

Perhaps the biggest benefit of good contract administration is conflict prevention. Construction disputes rarely happen because one party deliberately behaves badly. Far more were unclear, decisions were undocumented or assumptions were made.

A clear paper trail of instructions, variations, meetings and payment decisions makes resolving disagreements significantly easier.

What are the risks of getting contract administration wrong?

Some self-builders attempt projects without having a formal contract in place at all. Others have a contract in place but administer it poorly. Both approaches carry risk. Without a signed contract, there may be no clear agreement covering:

• Scope of works
• Payment arrangements
• Programme expectations
• Responsibilities for delays
• Procedures for change
• Quality standards
• Completion and defects.

All of which can quickly create ambiguity – and ambiguity is rarely helpful during construction.

One of the most common flashpoints is payment. Without defined interim payment procedures, self-builders may feel pressured into approving invoices they do not fully understand, while contractors may struggle with cashflow if payments are delayed or disputed.

Variations can become equally problematic. Imagine deciding halfway through the build schedule to enlarge glazing, upgrade finishes or reconfigure part of the layout. Without a formal process for recording and valuing those changes, additional costs can quickly spiral.

Equally concerning are compliance issues. I have seen situations where apparently small construction changes unintentionally affect major things such as structural approvals, energy performance or Building Regulations compliance. In some cases, this may affect certification, mortgage requirements or future saleability.

Poor contract administration can also expose self-builders to legal complications. For example, if delays are not properly assessed and extensions of time are not handled correctly, disputes over completion dates and additional costs can emerge. Similarly, failing to properly document instructions may weaken contractual protections later.

Many self-builders view contract administration as an avoidable professional fee, but when you are investing several hundred thousand pounds (and sometimes significantly more) in your self-build budget, proper oversight becomes less of an optional extra and more of a sensible form of risk management.

What's involved in the contract administration process?

One of the biggest misconceptions around contract administration is that it simply means occasional site visits. In reality, there is much more to it, as detailed below.

1. Before construction begins

Good contract administration starts before work commences. This typically involves the following:

• Advising on the most suitable contract type
• Preparing contract documentation
• Reviewing tender documents
• Clarifying scope and responsibilities
• Establishing programme expectations.

Many disputes originate before construction has even started because assumptions were never properly clarified. The more certainty established at the outset, the smoother construction tends to be.

2. When work begins

Typical responsibilities may include:

• Chairing progress meetings
• Recording decisions and actions
• Monitoring quality of work against drawings and specification
• Issuing formal instructions
• Reviewing programme progress
• Managing communication between parties

This is often where misunderstandings between the parties are avoided. There is an important difference between discussing an idea and formally instructing a change. Good administration creates clarity around that distinction.

3. Managing changes

Every project changes; the key is ensuring those changes are properly controlled.

A contract administrator helps assess implications, issue formal instructions and ensure self-builders understand costs before works proceed. That transparency can prevent unpleasant surprises later.

4. Assessing payments

Another major role involves payment certification. Rather than simply approving invoices for work or materials directly, payment applications are assessed against actual progress and contractual entitlement.

This helps provide reassurance that payments reflect works completed while maintaining fairness for contractors.

5. Completion and defects

As projects near completion, contract administration continues. This includes identifying incomplete works, managing snagging and defects, issuing completion certificates and helping ensure contractual obligations have been met.

For many self-builders, this final stage can be invaluable in helping secure a smoother handover.

Who can act as a contract administrator?

On professionally run residential projects, the position of contract administrator is often filled by an architect, because they are already coordinating the design and understand the technical requirements of that specific build.

Sometimes the role could also be taken by a quantity surveyor or other suitably experienced professional. Interestingly, however, there is no legal requirement for a contract administrator to be an architect or quantity surveyor, or other qualified individual. In theory, almost anyone could be appointed under the contract. In practice, competence matters.

Construction contracts contain procedural requirements that need to be followed carefully. Poorly handled payment certifications, unclear instructions or badly administered delays can undermine the protections the contract was intended to provide.

Whoever is appointed should have suitable experience, appropriate professional indemnity insurance and a good understanding of both construction and contract procedure. The key question for self-builders is not simply who can do it, but who can do it competently.

How much does a contract administrator cost?

The cost of appointing a contract administrator will depend on the size, complexity and duration of your self-build or renovation, as well as the level of involvement required during construction.

The amount of work and therefore cost at certain stages may change, there will be stages of the project where progress is slow – therefore costs should reflect this.

In most residential projects, contract administration is often included within an architect’s construction-stage service and may typically account for somewhere between 2–5% of the construction cost, depending on scope and procurement route. Alternatively, they may work for a fixed regular fee of, say, £2,000 per month – some months the workload may be more, some months it may be less.

At first glance, this can feel like an area where savings might be made to stop your build going over budget. However, self-builders should weigh this against the financial risks of proceeding without professional oversight. A poorly managed variation, payment dispute or delay can easily cost significantly more than the fee itself.

When viewed in the context of a project worth several hundred thousand pounds, many self-builders see contract administration less as an additional expense and more as a form of protection for the investment they are making.

If you are planning a self-build or major renovation, taking time to seek professional advice early in the process can save considerable time, money and stress later. Your architect is often the best person to start with when discussing procurement routes and suitable forms of contract.

It can sometimes feel tempting to rely on informal arrangements, particularly when you have found a contractor you trust. But trust and clarity are not mutually exclusive. In my experience, the strongest projects – and strongest working relationships – are usually built on clearly defined expectations from the outset.

Contract administration may never be the most exciting aspect of a project, but it is often one of the most valuable elements of managing a self-build. When projects go wrong, it is rarely because self-builders lacked ambition or contractors lacked skill. More often, issues arise because expectations, responsibilities or decisions were not properly managed.

A well-administered contract provides structure, transparency and accountability throughout the build.

While there is usually much consideration that goes into choosing the right style of windows and doors, all too often, one of the most important elements of this decision, the type of glass used to glaze them, is treated as something of an afterthought.

This is a huge mistake as the glass is one of the deciding factors in how all types of windows and doors perform, ensuring, amongst other things, that they keep your home at a comfortable temperature all year round, allow in enough light and keep you safe from both intruders as well as accidents.

So, if you were planning on plumping for just any old glass in your new windows and doors, wait right there. First, you need to hear what the experts have to say about how to choose the right glazing for your home, specific requirements and budget.

What factors should determine the type of glass you choose?

Rather than simply looking at a list of glass options and selecting the one that appears, on paper, to offer the best value for money, you need to start by assessing your particular requirements.

Charles Lowe, senior marketing executive at the IQ Glass Group, explains how best to start the selection process. "The glass specification should be developed around the individual building rather than selected as a standalone product. Orientation, the size of the glazed elevations, room use, local climate, surrounding shade, thermal targets, security, acoustic requirements and the risk of overheating should all be assessed before deciding on the appropriate glass build-up."

Edward Stobart, technical sales manager at IDSystems, goes on to set out, in detail, exactly what you need to be taking into account:

• Orientation of the house: A large, south-facing sliding door needs very different glass specifications compared to a north-facing kitchen window. South- and west-facing elevations receive direct sunlight and are therefore more prone to overheating, meaning choosing glass with a solar-control coating is important. North-facing elevations, on the other hand, receive no direct sunlight and therefore glass with a higher light transmittance is a crucial consideration.
• Acoustics: If the property is near a main road, railway, or flight path, choosing acoustic laminated glass is essential to dampen low-frequency noise.
• Safety and security: Building Regulations Part K specifies where toughened glass must be used, for example for doors and low-level glazing, whilst Part Q covers where security glass (most often laminated glass) must be used for ground-floor or easy access.
• Size and weight: Large architectural glass panels (like sliding doors or fixed frame picture windows) require thicker glass panes for structural stability against wind load. Thicker glass panes means heavier panels, which can place limitations on the sizes that can be achieved and the size of panels that can be created.

What are the main types of glass on offer?

While the array of glazing options might, at first, seem a little bewildering, it is actually possible to break the options down into categories which can make choosing much easier.

Single glazing

Realistically, very few people are going to opt for single glazing for new or replacement windows, although those living in a period property or listed building may well find this is something they have to live with and work around. "A single pane with almost no insulating value, around 4.8 to 5.8 W/m²K, runs cold and invites condensation. It rarely makes sense (unless it's legally required)," explains Megan Ebanks, director of MEA Studio.

Double glazing

"Double glazing is two panes with an argon-filled cavity and a low-emissivity coating, and for the vast majority of UK homes it's the sensible choice," explains Megan Ebanks. "A good modern unit reaches roughly 1.2 to 1.4 W/m²K, which is what Building Regs now ask for. It gives you a good balance of comfort and cost."

Triple glazing

This is becoming an increasingly popular option for UK homeowners. Megan Ebanks explains its benefits. "Triple glazing adds a third pane and a second cavity, taking you down to around 0.6 to 0.8 W/m²K. It comes into its own on north-facing elevations, in genuinely cold or exposed spots, in low-energy and Passivhaus homes, and anywhere the warmth of the internal glass surface matters to how a room feels."

Charles Lowe is keen to point out its disadvantages too. "While triple glazing can provide lower U-values and improved acoustic performance, it does create a thicker, heavier and generally more expensive glass unit. Whether triple glazing is worthwhile depends on the complete glazing system and the building’s performance targets, rather than simply assuming that an additional pane is always better."

Vacuum glazing

A relatively new kid on the block, vacuum glazing is fast becoming one of the most popular options. Megan Ebanks explains why. "Vacuum glazing is the newest choice and, on the right project, a great alternative to triple glazing. Two panes are separated by a vacuum barely a fraction of a millimetre thick, giving triple-glazing performance, roughly 0.4 to 0.7 W/m²K, in a sealed unit only 6 to 8mm thick. That slimness is the point: it fits into the delicate rebates of an original sash.

"On one of our listed projects, we used vacuum glazing to bring a heritage window up to modern thermal standards without altering how it looks or losing the original frames. The vacuum glazing costs more per unit, but where you need warmth and a heritage-honest profile, nothing else offers both. There is a slight trade-off which is if you look very closely, you can see the micro spacers which look like tiny dots. When looking through the glass into the distance, however, these are not visible."

Acoustic glazing

It is also worth looking into acoustic glazing vs triple glazing in some cases, according to Megan. "Acoustic glass uses a special interlayer between panes to damp sound, and is probably worth every penny near a main road, a railway or a flight path."

Laminated/safety glass

In certain cases, you will have no choice but to specify this type of glass. "Safety glass, toughened and laminated, isn't a comfort upgrade – it's a legal requirement in what the Regulations call 'critical locations', in and beside doors below 1500mm, any glazing below 800mm from the floor, and wet areas such as bathrooms," explains Megan Ebanks. "Toughened glass is around five times stronger than ordinary glass and crumbles safely; laminated holds together on impact and is the usual choice for balustrades and security. We always specify laminated glass in rooflights."

Low-iron glass

This is often combined with other types of glass within a unit. It has less iron oxide than standard glass, meaning it is far clearer – ideal for north-facing spaces. Interestingly, Fallingwater, by renowned architect Frank Lloyd Wright, was one of the first houses to incorporate low-iron glass.

"Low-iron glass provides greater clarity and reduces the green tint associated with standard glass, particularly where exposed edges or multiple layers of glass are visible," explains Charles Lowe.

What specialist glass coatings are available?

In addition to window styles and the type of glass you will be choosing from, there are also a range of glazing innovations that involve specialist coatings, designed with specific requirements in mind. The main two are solar control and Low-E.

Low-E glass is now almost seen as something that comes as standard, as Megan Ebanks explains. "Low-E glass isn't really a separate type of glass, more a near-standard coating that reflects heat back into the room. We assume any modern double or triple unit already has it, but it's always worth checking."

Solar-control glass is ideal where overheating could be an issue. "Solar-control glass carries a coating that turns away much of the sun's heat before it enters, dropping the g-value (the measure of solar heat gain) from around 0.76 for clear glass to roughly 0.28 to 0.42," says Megan. "Use it on large south- and west-facing glazing, on rooflights and glass box extensions – anywhere a room is prone to overheating.

"One practical note to bear in mind is that most solar-control glass carries a faint green tint," points out Megan. "It's barely perceptible from inside, but it can read from the outside, so it's worth checking against the look you want before you commit."

Are there any Building Regulations that could affect your choice?

Charles Lowe explains that it is not unusual to find that your glazing options will be partly dictated by the need to comply with the Building Regulations. "Depending on the project, the glass and complete window or door system may need to satisfy requirements relating to thermal performance, overheating, safety, security, ventilation and fire performance.

"These include Part L for energy efficiency, Part O for overheating in new residential buildings, Part K for safety and protection from impact, Part Q for the security of accessible windows and doors in new dwellings, and Parts B and F where fire safety or ventilation requirements apply," continues Charles. "The correct requirements depend on the location, building type and scope of work, and the regulations differ across England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland."

"Part L, on energy, requires replacement windows in existing homes to reach 1.4 W/m²K and new homes target 1.2 W/m²K," picks up Megan Ebanks. "Part K, on safety, makes safety glass mandatory in those critical locations near doors, at low level and in wet rooms. However, I find it mad that it's not a regulation requirement to have laminated glass in a rooflight. Replacement windows generally need signing off, through a FENSA or CERTASS-registered installer or building control."

Will glass options be more limited for listed building owners?

If you live in a listed building or in a designated area, you may well find that your options when it comes to choosing double or triple glazing are more limited.

In these cases, secondary glazing can be a great way to reduce heat loss while keeping the conservation officers happy, according to Edward Stobart. "Secondary glazing, where a second window frame is fitted inside the original window, is the most common solution. While less optimal than double or triple glazing, modern secondary glazing with low-E glass can still reduce heat loss and offer improved acoustic performance without altering the external fabric of the listed building."

Vacuum glazing can also be an option in some cases, says Megan Ebanks. "Where consent allows the original glass to be replaced, vacuum glazing can be acceptable. Because the sealed unit is so thin it drops into the existing sash rebates, delivering more warmth while keeping the window's original character."

That said, it isn't just the glazing that needs to be taken into account when upgrading windows in period properties, as James Allsop, MD and bespoke joinery expert at JLA Joinery, explains. "When choosing glass for a period property, the decision cannot be made in isolation. The age and significance of the building, the depth of the original glazing bars, the condition of the timber frames and any planning restrictions all need to be factored in. The starting point should generally be to retain and repair windows wherever practical, rather than assuming they need to be replaced.

"If conventional double glazing is unsuitable, there may still be several ways to improve the energy efficiency," adds James. "This includes repairing the existing timber, discreet draught-proofing, secondary glazing, shutters or carefully chosen curtains."

Shop window upgrade solutions

How much do different types of glass cost?

For many people, the cost of new windows will be one of the main deciding factors in the type of glass they choose.

While it is hard to give exact costs, it is possible to gauge how selecting one type of glass over the other could impact your budget, as Edward Stobart explains. "There are so many other variables – but as a guide, if we take a standard double-glazed unit with toughened glass as a basic specification, then change the specification to laminated glass for security or acoustic performance, this would typically add around 15% to the cost.

"With the same standard double-glazed unit, adding a solar-control coating to the specification would add around 8-12% to the cost, while upgrading to a standard triple-glazed unit would work out around 20-25% more expensive. The percentage figures are dependent on glass size, glass thickness and the system they are installed within so are a guide only."

FAQs

Can solar-control glass also keep heat in during winter?

Finding ways to prevent heat loss is often top of a homeowner's list of priorities once winter hits, and upgrading windows and doors can be a great way to do this. However, if you were considering using solar-control glass to mitigate heat loss, you might want to adjust your plan.

"Solar control and thermal performance are independent technology but need to be considered together when choosing the right glazing," picks up Edward Stobart. "Glass that prevents solar gain features a solar-control coating that is a microscopically metallic layer applied to the outer pane to reflect away infrared radiation while allowing light to pass through. The level of reflection is measured by the g-value of the glass.

"The specification of glass to keep homes warm in winter is dictated by low-E (low-emissivity) coatings and the insulating gas (argon or krypton) inside the double- or triple-glazed unit," continues Edward. "The performance of thermal efficiency is measured by the U-value of the sealed unit and of the window or door as a whole system.

"With this in mind, glass that prevents solar gain wouldn’t automatically keep your home warmer in winter – indeed reducing the solar gain from the weaker sun in winter months could potentially make a home feel cooler. However, combining both solar-control and low-E coatings, along with thermally efficient frames will ensure you have the optimal solution for both summer and winter."

Is it worth upgrading the glazing on a period house?

Finally, if you live in an old house and are considering replacing the windows, or are adding an extension to a period property, it is important to consider the energy efficiency of the building as a whole if you want to see any real benefits from your glazing upgrades.

"Glass alone won't fix a house that's leaking heat everywhere else," says Megan Ebanks. "Windows are usually a smaller share of the loss than an uninsulated roof, cold solid walls and, above all, draughts. The order that actually pays is nearly always draught-proofing and airtightness first, then loft and wall insulation, then glazing. Upgrade the glass in isolation and you can even push condensation and cold spots onto the walls, which are now the coldest surface in the room.

"There's a comfort and a health dimension here too," continues Megan. "Cold, damp and stuffy rooms are common in the older homes people love, and they affect how well you sleep and how a house feels to live in. The right glass, in the right place, sitting on a well-insulated and airtight home, is where the warmth, the quiet, the savings and the health benefits genuinely come from. Treat the house as one system and the glass does its job."

While choosing the right glass for your new windows and doors is hugely important, looking into insulating windows properly will also go a long way to ensuring your home feels comfortable and remains mould, damp and condensation free.

Most homeowners prioritise the headline build costs when they are setting their budget for a significant renovation or self-build, and underestimating project management and professional fees is one of the most frequent and expensive mistakes I see, and have to advise on, as a quantity surveyor.

These are not extras that are optional. Paying for them means your project will be successfully designed, structurally sound, legally compliant and efficiently delivered with professional involvement. Redesigns, delays, disagreements or expensive on-site mistakes frequently come about as a result of skimping in this area.

This article explains what professional fees actually cover, what you should budget for and where you may be able to control or cut costs without sacrificing quality.

How much can professional fees cost on average?

Costs associated with the build are separate from professional fees. Professional fees cover the project's design, technical input, conformity and administration, whereas build costs are related to labour and materials on site.

In real terms, such costs usually make up between 8% to 15% of the overall build cost, and occasionally they can amount to much more, depending on the complexity, method of procurement and the degree of specialist engagement required. This might be equivalent to £32,000 to £60,000 or more for a project worth £400,000.

Certain duties will be necessary for every project, but others will vary based on the complexity, site limitations and the method of procurement.

Also, it's worth remembering that, whenever possible, you should try to have a ‘fixed-fee proposal' for your professional fees rather than a percentage-based fee. Otherwise, if your build cost goes up so do your fees.

Professional fees by service and type

Usually, professional fees cover the following services:

• Design professionals Architects, architectural designers or architectural technologists
• Engineering professionals Structural engineers and, where required, civil engineers
• Specialist consultants Planning consultants, quantity surveyors, energy assessors, SAP assessors, party-wall surveyors
• Project management Either a dedicated project manager or a professional taking on a dual role
• Statutory costs Planning fees, building control fees, inspections, utility fees
• Legal and warranty costs Structural warranties, legal agreements, party-wall matters

Architects, designers or architectural technologists fees are not avoidable

From conception to technical drawings appropriate for construction and Building Regulations approval, these professionals produce the design. They are typically required for new builds, complicated renovations and projects that need a lot of design engagement or detailed planning. They might also help with contract administration and planning applications.

How they charge: Build cost percentage: usually between 5% and 12%; fixed cost for specific phases; hourly rates for any extra services required.

Typical costs: For basic planning and design around £3,000 to £8,000; for a complete service (from conception to completion) around £20,000 to more than £50,000 for bigger buildings.

Structural engineer fees are essential on many projects

Risk is decreased on a project by having a properly executed design. From experience, one of the main causes of cost overruns is inadequate or poor drawings, therefore the main role of a structural engineer is to provide structural calculations and designs for steelwork, roof structures, load-bearing components and foundations.

They are constantly necessary for structural projects, and highly important for everything from extensions and knock-throughs to non-standard builds. This is not a place to cut corners. Site delays and costly remedial measures are caused by inaccurate or absent structural design.

How they charge: Fixed fees for each component or package; occasionally, hourly fee for additional input.

Typical costs: £1,500 to £4,000 for a small home project; complex or larger schemes would be £5,000 to £10,000+.

Planning consultant fees may not always be needed

The role of a planning consultant is to manage negotiations with the local authority, prepare and submit applications and offer planning strategy advice. They can often be required when a site is in a conservation area or green belt, if the building is listed or in a location that has a history of planning issues or restrictions.

In these instances, a planning consultant can cut down on expensive redesign cycles and greatly increase the likelihood of approval.

How they charge: Fixed application fee; extra costs for amendments or appeals.

Typical costs: Simple application in the region of £1,500 to £3,500; sites that are sensitive or complex from £5,000 to £10,000+.

Project manager fees can end up being recouped

If you decide to hire a project manager, they will oversee the project's completion, coordinating the programme, trades, cost and quality.

They are a good idea if it's a difficult construction and design, if you are a client with little time to get involved or have limited expertise or for projects involving various coordinated packages and trades. Through increased productivity, fewer delays and better cost control, competent project managers will typically pay for themselves.

How they charge: Percentage of build cost, usually between 3% and 7%; a monthly fixed charge or a day rate.

Typical costs: £10,000 to £30,000+, depending on the scope and length of the project.

Quantity surveyor fees can prevent budgets escalating

Throughout the build process a quantity surveyor (QS) offers cost planning, procurement advice, tender documents (bill of quantities) and cost control.

Quantity surveyors are ideal for projects where having a clear budget is essential, when clients are looking for competitive bids or if it is a bigger or risky build.

How they charge: Fixed fee for specific services or a percentage of build cost (less common in residential projects).

Typical costs: Advice on early costs are around £300 to £1,000; complete cost control and tendering from £2,000 to £10,000 or more. One of the best strategies to prevent budget overruns is to bring in a quantity surveyor early.

Party wall surveyor fees will only be needed when there's a party wall

When a build or renovation affects nearby properties, you must comply with the Party Wall Act 1996. A party wall surveyor is needed when works are on or close to common boundaries or there are modifications to the party wall's structure.

How they charge: Fixed cost for each award or notice; in more complicated issues, hourly rates.

Typical costs: £800 to £2,500 or more for each neighbour; more if disagreements emerge.

Other professionals who may charge fees

According to the scope of your particular project, you may also need to engage the services of:

• Energy consultant/SAP assessor: £300 to £1,500
• Topographical surveyor: between £500 and £2,000
• Geotechnical surveys: between £1,000 to £5,000
• Building control consultant: depends on build route and scope

What statutory costs might you need to pay?

These are mandatory costs relating to compliance and approvals, so it is important to make sure you include these in your budgeting. I often find that clients' early budgets underestimate or completely overlook these fees.

• Planning application fees: Householder applications often cost £528 in England (with certain variances in Wales). Depending on scale, full applications for new builds are higher. Drawings, reports and accompanying documentation may incur additional charges, too.
• Building control fees: Your options are to use an approved inspector or the local authority. Generally, depending on the magnitude of the project, £500 to £1,500+, which will include site inspections and plan validation.
• Warranty fees: If using a structural warranty, which is necessary for mortgages and typical for self-builds, costs are usually between £2,000 and £6,000+. Among the providers are Self-Build Zone, LABC Warranty, NHBC and Protek Insurance.
• Additional statutory costs: New builds may be subject to Community Infrastructure Levy (CIL). You may also have to consider reports on conformity with Building Regulations, such as SAP, airtightness tests, drainage and utility approvals.

How to save money on your professional fees

If budgets are tight, it can be tempting to look at how to reduce professional fees as a way of cutting overall costs. While this might be understandable, it can often have a negative impact on the success of your project.

However, there are suitable strategies you can look at incorporating into your project that will help to control such costs without sacrificing overall quality.

• Clearly define your brief: Redesign work and extra costs result from an ambiguous or ever-changing brief. Take the time to define everything from layout requirements, financial limitations and level of specification at the earliest stage possible.
• Early commission of surveys: Surveys of the topography, structure, soil and location minimise ambiguity and avoid future redesign.
• Make use of fixed-fee contracts: Agree on fixed costs for specified deliverables wherever feasible. This prevents scope creep and offers cost certainty.
• Combine roles: Some professionals are able to play several roles. An example of this would be an architect taking on the role of a project manager. This means one consultant is in charge of design and planning, which can lower overall fees and avoid duplication.
• Think about partial services: Rather than hiring an architect, you could commission only planning drawings. For technical drawings, an option is to hire an architectural technologist, through the Chartered Institute of Architectural Technologists (CIAT).
• Self-manage all or some of the project's elements: If you have time and experience you could directly oversee and project manage procurement, organise and integrate trades on easier builds. On complicated projects, though, this should be done with caution as, without the necessary experience, it can lead to higher costs.

Avoiding extra costs or fees

While cost-cutting measures can be necessary in many projects, there are some areas you should never skimp on to try and save money. They can lead to long-term problems that can be even more costly to rectify than if you had simply done them properly in the first place.

• Ignoring structural calculations and design: This may result in dangerous building methods and expensive corrective actions. Your structural engineer's advice is sometimes more important than your architect's.
• Lack of project management for intricate projects: Coordination issues can lead to rework, delays and higher expenses. Ask yourself, do you really have the time and expertise to be a PM before you take on this key role?
• Underestimating the need for compliance: Inspections, warranties and Building Regulations are all required and must be appropriately planned for. Checking with your local authority on what's required is a safe bet.
• Cutting back on design guidance: One of the main reasons for this is incomplete or inadequately detailed designs. This will then lead to disputes and variations – and inevitably an overspend on the project.

Every cost plan I prepare for clients for a self-build, significant house renovation or extension must include professional fees and project management costs. Although they may seem like an extra expense, they are essential and sometimes legally required in making sure your project is economical, efficient and compliant.

By lowering risk, preventing mistakes, and enhancing decision-making throughout, the appropriate expert advice will typically save more money than it costs.

Investing in the appropriate amount of professional expertise at the appropriate time is more important than just cutting these costs. When done correctly, this will significantly increase your chances of completing your project on schedule, under budget and at the level you want.

Ask most people how to make a home smell good and they'll reach for a candle or a reed diffuser. It's a reasonable instinct, but it treats smell as decoration rather than what it actually is: information about how well a house is working.

A home that consistently smells fresh and clean has usually got there by design. That may be as simple as the paint on your walls or as intentional as how air moves from room to room. It's not very glamorous, but it's arguably doing more for your wellbeing than anything you can buy in the home fragrance aisle.

So how far can you design a home to smell good, rather than manage it after the fact? I put the question to architects and designers.

What causes bad smells in a home?

Most bad smells in a home come down to the same handful of causes. There are cooking odours that haven't been extracted before they settle into soft furnishings, there's damp or moisture sitting in a room with nowhere to go, and then there's stale air that simply isn't being replaced often enough. But it's important to note that none of these are solved by masking them with fragrance. They'll only be solved by fixing what's causing them.

That distinction – between masking a smell and actually purifying the air – is one Zaeem Chaudhary, MCIAT and director of AC Design Solution, is blunt about. "Scent should not be used to disguise poor ventilation, damp or high-emission materials," he says. "A genuinely pleasant-smelling home is normally the result of good airflow and materials that age well, rather than added fragrance."

In other words, a scented candle can make a room smell nice for an hour but it won't fix poor kitchen ventilation, a floor void that carries those cooking smells up into a bedroom, or a bathroom that never fully dries out. Those are design problems, and they have design solutions, from the materials you choose to how a home is ventilated and laid out.

Select materials that breathe, not just look good

The way a home ends up smelling is decided long before anyone's living in it, right down to what goes into the walls, floors and finishes during construction. Get that stage right and ventilation and layout have far less work to do later.

Synthetic materials and off-gassing

Most of us have lived through the smell of a new material without knowing what it was. Paints, adhesives, flooring and insulation are typically manufactured with volatile organic compounds locked into them, and those compounds leach out slowly, sometimes for years, which is the actual chemistry behind that "just renovated" smell that lingers however many windows you open.

What's more, high humidity speeds up how fast those chemicals are released, so a freshly plastered bathroom or a newly floored kitchen can smell faintly synthetic for longer than a drier room would.

If you're mid-renovation and thinking about how to reduce toxins during the build, material choice at that stage does more long-term work than any amount of airing out afterwards, says Zaeem Chaudhary. The materials that do the most for how a room smells, he adds, are the ones that manage moisture rather than trap it.

Natural materials and finishes that regulate scent

Lime plaster is a good example of what Zaeem Chaudhary means. It doesn't just tolerate moisture, it actively pulls it in when the air is damp and lets it back out again once things dry, working almost like a sponge rather than a barrier. That's a large part of why older, lime-rendered houses rarely develop the trapped, stale smell that newer builds sometimes do.

Paint a wall like that in something non-breathable (vinyl-based finishes are the usual offenders) and you cut that process off entirely, sealing moisture inside the wall instead of letting it pass through, which tends to be where musty smells and damp patches start, and often where that lingering paint smell comes from too.

Eloise Pfeiffer, interior designer at Pfeiffer Design, sees the same principle at play across a wider range of materials. "Incorporating natural materials such as wood, stone and linen not only adds warmth, texture and authenticity to interiors but they tend to breathe better than synthetic or man-made materials, helping to regulate scents in your home," she says. "They also don't release any potential chemical odours either, so your home feels healthier from the outset."

Use ventilation to stop a house smelling bad

Newer, well-insulated homes tend to trap more smells precisely because they're built to retain heat. Older houses lost heat and smell alike through gaps around windows, doors and floorboards, letting air trade places without anyone designing for it.

A modern, airtight home doesn't have that accident to rely on, so ventilation has to be built in deliberately or smells simply have nowhere to go.

Natural ventilation

The simplest fix is still opening a window. Natural ventilation costs nothing and works well for everyday household smells, letting stale air out and pulling fresh air in without any mechanical help at all. But it's only as good as the air coming in. A window facing a busy road can let in as much smell as it lets out, so if that's your situation, natural ventilation alone won't solve it.

Mechanical ventilation

According to UK Building Regulations Part F, extract ventilation is required from rooms where water vapour or pollutants are likely to be released (kitchens and bathrooms specifically) before they can spread through the rest of the home.

In practice that means a kitchen extractor fan fitted directly above the hob and vented outside needs to shift at least 30 litres of air a second, rising to 60 litres a second if it's mounted elsewhere in the room. Bathrooms need 15 litres a second on an intermittent fan, or a lower continuous rate if the fan runs constantly rather than switching on and off.

MVHR applies this principle to the whole house. Rather than individual fans working room by room, a single system continuously draws stale, moist air out of kitchens and bathrooms and replaces it with fresh, filtered air, recovering most of the heat in the process. It's increasingly standard in new, airtight homes for exactly this reason, and MVHR can often be retrofitted into an older property too, usually as part of a wider renovation.

Trickle vents – the small adjustable openings built into window frames – do a version of the same job on an ongoing basis, and are required under the same regulations for exactly that reason.

Understand how layout can impact smell

Your home layout decides whether a smell stays put or spreads through the whole house. For example, knock through between a kitchen and living room and you lose the barrier that used to stop last night's dinner following you onto the sofa – a real trade-off with open-plan kitchens.

Older houses avoided this by keeping the kitchen behind its own door, a solution some newer builds are bringing back without giving up the open feel. Internal glazing and glazed partitions keep daylight moving through the house while giving the kitchen a door to actually close when something's on the hob. Crittall-style doors do the same job with a bit more presence, and pocket doors that slide fully into the wall offer the closed-off option without ever looking like a divider when they're open.

Layout works vertically too. A floor void or an old chimney breast can carry smell upward more efficiently than any open door downstairs, so a kitchen sitting beneath a bedroom can end up sharing more than anyone intended, and it's rarely obvious until you're living with it.

The fix depends on the cause. If the void is just a route, sealing gaps around skirting boards, pipes and joists usually solves it. If the void itself is damp or stagnant, sealing it first only traps the problem, it needs proper ventilation, working air bricks that aren't blocked or painted over, before anything gets sealed. Either way, raise it with an architect at the layout stage.

Create a strong connection to the garden

Design doesn't stop at the back door, says interior designer, Eloise Pfeiffer. "Framing nature, such as your garden design or the surrounding area, paired with carefully positioning your windows, will help with better airflow and a feeling of freshness in your home," she says. She recommends positioning dining tables, sofas and armchairs near open windows, so they get "more direct access to fresh air and natural scents from the gardens."

David Denyer, florist and gardening expert at Eflorist, takes this further: "A simple way to make your home smell naturally beautiful is to stop thinking of your garden and your house as two separate spaces, and instead design your planting areas around the parts of your home that open onto the garden and outdoor areas," he says. "This will help to create natural flows of floral fragrances that drift indoors with open windows and doors."

Scented plants positioned just outside kitchens, living rooms and bedrooms let warm summer breezes carry fragrance in, Denyer adds, an effect French doors and bifolds only amplify. He favours jasmine and roses for a layered floral note, tuberose for something richer, and sweet peas for lighter, nostalgic scent that's good for cutting. Herbs earn a place too. "Herbs like thyme, rosemary, mint and lemon balm release scent whenever they're touched or warmed by the sun, so are ideal to place around doorways, garden paths and outdoor seating," he says.

Cut flowers can stand in where outdoor space is limited. Denyer recommends scented bouquets in entrance halls, dining spaces or living rooms, cut early in the morning when fragrance is strongest. "It's an effortless way to make a home feel welcoming without relying on artificial air fresheners."

Focus on improving indoor air quality

Everything above assumes you're building or renovating a home, but most people aren't. If you're already living with a smell rather than designing it out, the fastest route to fixing it is improving your indoor air quality directly.

Treat underlying causes of damp or musty smells

Air purifiers and diffusers can clear and mask musty smells circulating in a room right now, but they can't stop mould or mildew producing more of it. Treating the smell without treating the source just means running a purifier indefinitely rather than fixing the problem once. So, make sure you tackle the root cause of mould and stay on top of ventilation and moisture control rather than relying on scent to paper over it.

In practice, this might look like running extractor fans in the kitchen and bathroom for longer than feels necessary, wiping down condensation on windows each morning, and keeping an eye on any recurring damp patches.

Purchase an odour-neutralising air purifier

The right air purifier can help improve indoor air quality, but not every model is built for smell. A true HEPA filter captures fine particles such as pollen, dust and mould spores. That's useful for allergens, but most household smells are a gas, not a particle, so HEPA alone won't touch them. Activated carbon does the job instead, absorbing smell-causing molecules rather than trapping dust.

When choosing the best air purifier for the job, carbon quantity matters more than the label. A thin carbon layer will saturate within weeks, whereas a deep carbon bed keeps working for months. Check the actual volume of carbon rather than assuming any "carbon filter" does the same job.

To get the most out of your unit, keep it running continuously, even on low, to prevent odours building up rather than just clearing them after the fact. Placing the unit near the source, by the kitchen rather than in a hallway, also tackles the smell at its strongest point.

If your home is on a busy road, closing the windows during rush hour will do more for your home's air quality than leaving them open. Our guide to improving indoor air quality covers the wider habits that are worth building into your routine if bad smells keep returning.

Scroll through any bathroom mood board right now and you'll spot the same colours on repeat: deep green baths, terracotta units, and pink basins in candy shades that would have made your grandmother wince. After what feels like thirty years of glossy white as the only acceptable choice, colour is back in the bathroom, and it's not being subtle about it either.

But there's a gap between admiring a burnt orange bidet on Pinterest and actually plumbing one into your new build. So is coloured sanitaryware here to stay, or just a bathroom design trend that photographs better than it wears?

I asked the experts who spec it, fit it and live with it for the honest answer, including how it holds up to a decade of family bath times, and whether that gorgeous olive green suite will still feel right in ten years' time.

Is coloured sanitaryware trendy again?

After decades of glossy white as the default, colour is one of the biggest bathroom trends making a comeback, but is that translating into what actually goes into new bathrooms, or is it staying on the mood board?

According to Keeley Sutcliffe, design manager at BC Designs, the demand is real and has been for some time. "Coloured sanitaryware stopped being a Pinterest-only idea several years ago. We have seen sustained demand for coloured baths and basins for a long time now, so the more interesting question is not whether people are choosing colour, but how they are using it."

"Most homeowners are not recreating the fully matched avocado or pink bathroom suites of the past," she explains. "Colour is being used with much more restraint, usually through one key piece such as a freestanding bath or basin. That gives the room personality without making the whole scheme dependent on one shade."

James Roberts, director at Sanctuary Bathrooms, agrees, pointing to the staying power of coloured suites, rather than them having a passing moment.

"Coloured bathroom sanitaryware is definitely becoming more popular among our customers, not as a fad, but as a genuine, longer-term preference for coordinated, colourful bathroom schemes over individual white or chrome pieces," he says. "This is particularly evident where coloured suites complement biophilic design and the growing use of bathrooms as wellness spaces, giving the trend real staying power."

He points to his own company's research to back this up. "Our recent survey of 2,000 UK adults showed that soft pink, blue and green colour schemes were among the retro trends people said they would be most likely to recreate at home, with interest particularly strong among Gen Z and Millennials."

But whether it's expressed through one considered piece or a fully coordinated scheme, both experts agree this isn't a fad that will fade as quickly as it arrived.

The pros of coloured sanitaryware

1. It gives a room personality

Done well, colour can give a bathroom a sense of character that white simply can't. Sophie Chapman, interior designer at The Vawdrey House, explains more.

"Coloured sanitaryware is gaining momentum as bathrooms shift towards more expressive, personality-led spaces, with homeowners looking to move beyond all-white schemes in favour of something warmer and more individual.

"Softer pinks and earthy tones continue to lead the way," she continues, "reflecting a broader move towards grounded, natural palettes that bring a sense of calm and tactility to interiors."

2. It can tie your spaces together

Sophie also points out that colour can help a bathroom feel connected to the rest of the home, rather than sitting apart from it. "Increasingly, bathrooms are also being designed as part of a larger suite, where the relationship between bedroom, dressing space and bathroom is carefully thought through. Coloured sanitaryware can play a key role in this, helping to visually connect spaces through a shared palette."

Shop coloured sanitaryware

The cons of coloured sanitaryware

1. It can limit flexibility

The case against is less about taste and more about commitment. Blanca Sanchez, director at Halo Design Interiors, is candid about the risks.

"The biggest issue with coloured sanitaryware is that it limits flexibility. A white suite acts as a neutral foundation that can work with almost any design style, whether you prefer modern, traditional, minimalist or colourful interiors. Once you've committed to a pink, green or blue toilet and basin, every future design decision has to work around them. That makes updating the space more expensive and more restrictive."

2. Social media appeal doesn't always translate into real life

Blanca Sachez is also sceptical of how much of the online appeal actually holds up in daily life.

"While they're generating some attention on Pinterest that doesn't really reflect what most homeowners are choosing when they're investing thousands of pounds in bathroom costs they'll live with for the next 10 or 15 years. Social media is brilliant for inspiration but it rewards bold, eye-catching designs that don't always translate into spaces people want to use every day."

How to make coloured sanitaryware work in your space

Let the walls carry the statement too

A coloured suite doesn't have to work alone. Pairing it with a bold bathroom wallpaper can pull the whole room together rather than competing with it. The downstairs toilet pictured above (designed by Jamie Watkins, co-founder of Divine Savages) shows exactly how.

"By pairing blush pink sanitaryware with glossy green tiles and statement wallpaper, the result is layered, contemporary and full of character," says Jamie, "proving that even the smallest room can make the biggest design statement."

Opt for earthier or muted shades

Not every colour ages well. Keeley Sutcliffe, says the shades with staying power tend to have some depth to them rather than being punchy or primary.

"The colours with the greatest longevity tend to have some complexity to them. Very bright shades can work brilliantly, but softer mineral tones, warm neutrals and deeper nature-led colours are easier to live with and can adapt as the rest of the bathroom changes. You can also replace brassware, repaint walls or introduce new towels and accessories without the bath suddenly feeling out of place."

Choose one statement piece to add a pop of colour

Rather than a fully matched suite, the experts all tend to favour a single coloured piece doing the hard work.

"My advice is to choose one coloured piece, make sure the shape feels current and avoid matching everything around it," says Keeley Sutcliffe. "Let a statement piece, like a colourful vanity unit, lead the room, then use the surrounding finishes to support it rather than compete with it."

Add colour through finishes and taps

If a full suite feels like too big a leap, brassware and taps are a lower-commitment way to bring colour in without touching the sanitaryware itself. Emily Robertson, bathroom expert at Mira Showers, agrees this is often the smarter starting point.

"If you're interested in adopting the trend without committing to replacing your whole bathroom suite just yet, it's far more cost-effective to start with replacing your fixtures and fittings. Try swapping out fixtures like your taps, shower or shower head, cabinet handles, or bathroom lighting."

A coloured tap, shower or set of handles can add just as much personality as a basin or bath, while being far easier and cheaper to change later if your taste shifts. It's a good starting point if you want to test how you feel about living with colour before committing to anything permanent, and it means the rest of the room can stay flexible while one or two smaller details do the work.

Shop easy ways to add colour to your bathroom

FAQs

Does colour affect resale value?

"Resale is the worry that stops a lot of people committing to colour, but Keeley Sutcliffe thinks that fear is overplayed.

"Resale is often used as an argument against colour, but I think that concern is overstated when it is handled well. One coloured bath in a strong, contemporary shape is very different from committing every element in the room to the same shade. Buyers increasingly respond to bathrooms with character, particularly when the choice feels part of the wider scheme rather than added for novelty."

Does coloured sanitaryware need more maintenance than white?

Not according to Keeley Sutcliffe, who says maintenance is more about the material than the colour.

"With a colour-through solid-surface bath such as ColourKast, the shade is integral to the product rather than sitting only on the surface, which makes it a practical choice as well as a decorative one."

The same principle applies to damage. White sanitaryware in a coated or glazed finish can chip and show a duller layer underneath just as easily as a coloured piece can show white, so the real difference in durability comes down to how a piece is made, not what colour it is.

Can coloured sanitaryware work in a small bathroom?

Yes, but it needs a different approach to a large family bathroom. Emily Robertson warns against treating every space the same way.

"Adding a coloured suite to a small bathroom, like an ensuite, can run the risk of making the room feel overcrowded and dark. This is where you should consider pairing the suite with lighter and contrasting features, as well as good bathroom lighting ideas and bathroom mirrors to open up the space."

Colour isn't the only way to bring personality into a bathroom. If you're after something calmer, our guide to spa bathrooms shows how texture, lighting and natural materials can create the same sense of character, minus the commitment. Or, if your tastes venture further afield, these Japanese bathroom ideas could be just what you're looking for.

If you're ready to give your outdoor space an overhaul but have no idea where to begin, installing a garden design app could be a smart first step.

While there's obviously only so far an app can get you (they won't account for practical problems or actually build it), they can be invaluable for visualising where you could place things or how to recreate a specific style you've been stalking on Pinterest.

To find out what the best garden design apps are and what real landscape experts have to say about them, keep reading.

1. Spacelift

Using expertise from award-winning garden designer Matt Keightley, this AI-powered app helps you map, visualise, shop for, and build your outdoor space from end to end.

Whether you want to reimagine your current space or plan your future garden, Spacelift personalises the experience to whatever your goals are, with the option to select the maintenance level, style and budget you're after.

For £9.99 a month or £89.99 a year, you'll get to design two projects per month, 10 design edits and quick-match credits, a project action plan, and Shop the Look. The Pro version also includes discounts on furniture and accessories.

I put its quick-match feature to the test on my own garden, asking it to redesign the space in a cottage style. See the results below.

Get the app

2. ChatGPT

You may have used ChatGPT for research or problem-solving, but did you know that it can also design your garden? Our Content Director, Laura Crombie, used it to help revamp her outdoor space, as pictured below.

When it comes to getting the best results possible, she recommends being as specific as possible about things such as paving colour and the type of gravel you want. "I had a clear vision in my head of what was practical and what I wanted. I'm not sure how useful it would be if you find it hard to picture things yourself. What I've got is very accurate."

However, she warns that sometimes it has a mind of its own and decides to change the whole thing when you ask for a tiny amendment, so be prepared to have a little patience with it.

While ChatGPT is free to use, you'll need to upgrade to the Pro version (starting at £7 per month) to generate more than two images per day.

Get the app

3. iScape

If you're in the early stages of designing a garden, iScape could come in handy, helping you visually plan where things could potentially go.

Simply take a photo of your garden and you'll be able to drag and drop various products, including trees, flowers and shrubs, as well as furniture, containers and hardscapes.

You can design in either 2D or 3D with AR, giving you a clear picture of what things would look like before you invest. The paid version (£29.99 per month) gives you access to more products, as well as the proposal tool, which helps you plan costs and decide what to buy. However, you can get a one-week free trial.

Get the app

4. Garden AI

Upload a photo of your garden and Garden AI can transform it into any style of your choosing – from Japanese or tropical to rustic or industrial. You can also upload an inspo photo and it will redesign your space based off that.

However, if you're not in a place to start completely from scratch, this app also lets you drag and drop new furniture onto your existing space and replace objects with options in their catalogue.

While you can generate one re-design for free, you'll need to upgrade to their Pro version, costing £5.99 per week or £49.99 per year, to access all of the themes and features.

I asked for a Mediterranean-style garden idea with the addition of colourful flowers, new furniture and plants. Here's what it gave me:

Get the app

Should I use a garden design app?

Garden design apps can be a brilliant starting point for homeowners unsure of what they want, but Mirela Bajic, Senior Garden Designer at House Designer, says they have their limitations.

"It doesn't know your soil. It doesn't know your garden faces north and gets two hours of sun in winter. It will happily let you put a Mediterranean gravel garden on heavy wet clay, and it will look wonderful on the screen right up until everything dies. The app designs the picture. It can't design the conditions."

When it comes to hard landscaping, such as levels, drainage and retaining walls, it's always best to call in a garden designer, as repair costs can be expensive – and tricky to undo. "I've been called in more than once to fix a garden someone built from a screen design," Mirela adds.

What are the biggest garden design app mistakes?

Garden design apps might seem like a magic quick fix, but Martin Chaplin, Head of Horticulture at Hedges Direct, says there are a few mistakes to avoid:

1. Not considering how plants grow over time: "A hedge or border that looks perfectly proportioned on screen can quickly become overcrowded if mature plant sizes and growth rates aren't factored into the design."

2. Designing around a wishlist, not your garden's natural conditions: "Before choosing any plants, consider how much sunlight the area receives, whether it's exposed to strong winds, how well the soil drains and, crucially, what type of soil you have."

3. Thinking short-term: "It's easy to focus on how the garden will look immediately after planting rather than how it will develop over the coming years. The most successful gardens have a strong evergreen framework, using hedging and structural shrubs as the backbone before layering in flowering shrubs such as hydrangeas or buddleia and perennials like lavender, salvia and verbena for seasonal colour."

While garden design apps can be incredibly helpful at visualising what sort of outdoor space to create, they should be used with caution for big projects and investments.

For more inspiration, take a look at these budget small garden ideas or browse through these garden screening ideas.

Avoid making these small garden design mistakes and you'll be well on your way to creating a gorgeous outdoor space. It's not always easy working with cramped conditions, but there are some simple dos, and some definite don'ts to bear in mind.

With small plots, every design decision will have a dramatic impact on the look and the use of the space. Naturally, you'll want to pick features that utilise every inch and create a harmonious, welcoming garden. But some choices can inadvertently exacerbate the claustrophobic conditions and turn a plot into a place that you never feel inclined to use.

From planting picks and colour schemes to awkward layouts that seem to be a good idea at the time, we've rounded up the common errors when bringing your small garden ideas to life, so that you can steer clear of them.

1. Rushing the planning stage

For the most successful results, planning is the key to avoiding small garden design mistakes. If you rush a design you could risk filling up an already compact space with features that you won't really need or use, and you'll quickly run out of space for the things you realise you did need.

Carefully think about what you actually want to do in the garden. Do you want to grow vegetables, host outdoor meals, welcome in wildlife, or simply relax? Prioritise the features that will need to be added to make these activities possible: if you want to grow vegetables, you'll need space for a raised garden bed, or at least a few large garden planter ideas. If you want to relax, then a seating area is a must – perhaps beneath some sort of cover or shade sail so that a spot of rain doesn't deter you.

Want to cook up a storm? Then you'll need a food prep station or a small outdoor kitchen, and an area for dining.

2. Choosing single-purpose furniture over multifunctional pieces

Versatility is key in small gardens as you need to be able to get as much as possible out of your space, and that extends to choosing your furniture. Avoid pieces that are only useful for one purpose.

For instance, instead of opting for that on-trend egg chair, think about benches or sofas which lift up to reveal storage space, or consider a bistro set, such as this Habitat Eden 2 Seater Metal Bistro Set. Seating two people rather than one, it can also be folded away when not in use, and provides a space for alfresco dining as well as a quick sit-down with a cuppa.

Tie-on cushions will keep everyone feeling comfortable, too. You can also find tables which have built-in fire pits or ice buckets, which can then be covered when not in use – ideal for taking your outdoor entertaining up a notch.

You can extend the idea to your hard landscaping too. If you're opting for raised beds or small garden walls in your plot, then these can also double up as benches.

Shop for multi-purpose garden items

3. Planting trees that are too big

If space is at a premium, planting a large tree (or a small tree that will quickly turn into a large one) can be a risky move. Not only will it take up precious meterage in your plot, but the canopy of leaves can also block out the light, leaving your garden feeling cold and gloomy. Plus, your planting picks will be limited, as not everything thrives in the dry and shaded patch beneath a tree.

In fact, planting a fast-growing evergreen shrub (such as leylandii) isn't a good idea either, as it can quickly take over your garden without regular maintenance.

There are, however, some very good choices which are suitable for small plots, or even for growing in pots, which can add colour and character and are low maintenance too. Our guides on the best trees for small gardens and best trees to grow in pots are great places to start.

4. Picking paving that overwhelms the space

Overly fussy or dark paving is a classic patio mistake and can overwhelm a small space, making it feel claustrophobic. Instead, pick larger tiles says Isabel Fernandez, director at Quorn Stone, as this creates a more subtle and seamless appearance. Whether you choose natural stone or porcelain pavers, picking pale tones will also help to brighten the area.

To take it a step further, use the same paving both indoors and out (a particularly effective trick if you have French doors, bi-folds or accordion doors). That way, your living space will feel extended with an open and airy sense of flow.

"We also recommend choosing a grout colour that is a close colour match to the paver itself," adds Isabel. "This helps the grout to blend in with the pavers and gives the illusion of a larger area."

5. Not settling on a cohesive colour scheme

It's easy to get carried away when picking plants for your small garden and go for one in every colour. However, once you add them to your garden, you might find that the lack of cohesion leads to a sense of chaos.

It's the same for furniture and accessories too, along with your flooring, fences and walls. So, rather than throwing together a mishmash of random hues, restore a sense of balance with a tonal palette that enhances the mood you want to create.

Neutrals are a failsafe choice for pared-down elegance, and can feel beachy, Scandinavian-chic, or luxe depending on the textural finishes. Soft antique white mixed with billowing planting of white gaura, cosmos, hollyhocks and roses can even create a cottage garden feel. Or, you might want to go for gentle pastels, pretty pinks, or even jolly yellows mixed with pops of purple for a striking look.

Alternatively, dark and moody tones are great for making a bolder statement with an industrial edge and will help jewel-coloured planting or acid-green ferns to pop. What's more, painting a wall or fence in a darker shade can help the boundaries of your plot seem to recede, making them less noticeable.

Shop for a single colour planting scheme

6. Adding an unnecessary lawn 'just because'

Although a section of lawn may be tempting, in a small plot this isn't a decision to take lightly.

First of all, a lawn needs a lawn mower, and a lawn mower needs somewhere dry to live when not in use, so you'll need to sacrifice space for garden storage. Second, lawns require a lot more maintenance than other types of ground cover.

A small lawn will be quick to look after, but you might decide that it's not really worth the bother. Also, remember that a lawn shouldn't be walked on if it's rainy or the ground is frozen. So, if you live somewhere where these conditions are frequent, a lawn will automatically reduce the amount of your garden that you can actually use throughout the year. And finally, if your plot is shady, then you could be facing a losing battle anyway – most lawns need a minimum of four to six hours of sunlight a day for healthy, lush results.

So what are the alternatives to grass? There are plenty of stunning small decking ideas or small patio ideas to try, whilst a gravel garden can offer a more relaxed (and budget-friendly) look. If you want something softer and more organic, then bark chippings might be the way forward.

7. Forgetting about the sun

"Everyone wants a garden that's visually appealing," says Chris Bonnett, founder of GardeningExpress. But it's also important to think about the conditions your plants need when designing your small outdoor space.

"Consider things like where the sun rises and sets and where the most shade is – this will help you to decide where the best location is to grow any plants and crops," Chris says. This is especially important in smaller city gardens, which are often overshadowed by surrounding walls or buildings.

Think 'right plant, right place' when planning your scheme and you will be rewarded with a garden that thrives. Our guide to shade loving plants will come in useful if your plot is lacking lots of sun.

Of course, it's not just the plants that you need to think about – you and your guests will probably want to enjoy some of that sunshine too. Bear this in mind when planning any outdoor seating areas – a bench that catches the evening sun will be much more tempting than one that is banished to a dark and dreary corner.

8. Holding back on borders

There are so many opportunities when it comes to designing your garden borders – from ornamental grasses to soothing colours and even scented picks. But when it comes to planning areas of planting for a small garden, it's easy to hold back. After all, a less-than-large plot should have less-then-large flowerbeds to match, right? Not necessarily.

Skimping on your borders is one of those small garden design mistakes that seems to make sense at the time. But actually, being bold and making them wider will not only give your plants more space to flourish, but it will also enable you to add layers and play with different heights. What's more, a bigger border will create much more of a statement in a small plot and help to draw the eye.

It's the same with planters – a couple of bold planters will look more stylish than a fussy cluster of little ones. Plus, they'll be easier to maintain.

Top tip: avoid cramming in too many plants when preparing your border. Instead, do your research to check how much they will spread as they establish and space them out accordingly.

Clear on what you should and shouldn't do to avoid small garden design mistakes? Next head off to our guide on the best ways to make a small patio look bigger. And, if your budget size matches your garden size, take on board these small garden budget ideas too.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

A water butt is used to store rainwater and can be any size or shape, as long as rain from a drainpipe or rain chain can flow into it. The collected water can then be used on plants and crops, as well as to top up ponds and other water features.

Free from chlorine and other chemicals found in our tap water, rainwater is a healthier choice for our plants, containing beneficial nitrates and other organic matter.

If you want to get ahead of the next hosepipe ban by adding a water butt to your garden, we've explained everything you need to know about this eco-friendly garden update below.

Tips for using a water butt in your garden

1. Water butts typically attach to downpipes running from gutters and are fed by a diverter that syphons water from the downpipe into the butt. Once full, the rainwater coming off the roof simply continues into the drain.
2. Ideally, position a water butt where you most need water, such as next to your vegetable garden, or near the house for easy access when watering houseplants.
3. Site the rain barrel in the shade if possible. Keeping it cool will reduce the chance of bacteria flourishing.
4. Raise your water butt off the ground so you can use the tap at the bottom and fit a watering can underneath. If the butt does not come with a stand, create a base to stand it on using an even stack of bricks.
5. Make sure your water butt has a lid to stop debris falling in and to prevent flies and mosquitoes laying eggs in the water.
6. Try making a filter to cover the inlet to the rain barrel and prevent leaves and other debris contaminating your stored water.
7. Water butts come in a range of different sizes and there will be one to fit the space you have available in your garden landscaping. You can also join several together if you have a large garden.
8. Water butts are easy to install and widely available online and from DIY stores. Installation kits include the barrel, a diverter and a tap for filling a watering can.
9. Don't forget about your lovely supply of fresh rainwater. Using the water frequently helps to dilute stored water with fresh water to help keep the water clean.

Water butt shopping picks

Why do you need a water butt in your garden?

"Gardeners are having to be smart about how they water their gardens by investing in a water butt," says Mark Gush, Head of Environmental Horticulture at the RHS. "Thinking ahead is one of the best things we can do in preparing our green spaces for weather extremes, ensuring that even during the height of summer they provide a green oasis."

Gardening journalist Ruth Hayes agrees on the importance of water butts. She has five (yes five!) situated around her garden.

"Water butts are an essential piece of gardening equipment because harvested rainwater is better for plants than tap water, and of course once you’ve got your butt installed, collecting water is free and saves money as part of your garden water saving," she says.

"Mine are attached to downpipes from the house, the greenhouse and the shed, which makes it so much easier to transport water to exactly where it's needed, and between them they hold a whopping 800 litres of water when full."

What's the best design for a water butt?

There are plenty of widely available options to choose from including smart designer styles. The most common variety of water butt tends to be those made of green plastic with a black lid.

However, there are a variety of other designs and shapes available, including ones that are beehive-shaped or slimline, as well as a variety of materials such as clay, wood or terracotta (like this one from Amazon). So whether you have a cottage garden or a more modern garden, you'll be able to find a design to suit your space.

You can also buy water butts with integrated planters, as well as slimline models for slotting into narrow spaces as part of your small garden ideas. You can, of course, also have a go at making your own if you're looking for a budget garden idea and are up for an easy DIY project.

How do you keep the water in a water butt fresh?

"There are a number of steps you can take to ensure the water in your water butt or rain barrel stays fresh for as long as possible," says Hozelock's Sarah Dixon.

"First, keep the butt or barrel out of the sunlight as much as possible, otherwise algae and bacteria will start to form. It is also important to keep the top covered, as this will prevent any debris from getting inside and contaminating the water.

"There are also a number of treatments available, such as Hozelock's Water Butt Treatment (available on Amazon), which have been formulated to treat stored water by preventing unpleasant odours and keeping it free from slime and algae."

What are the problems with water butts?

Water butts are easy to use and pretty much problem-free. But one thing to remember is that it's important to keep downpipes and gutters clear of leaves, moss and any other debris, especially in the autumn, as they will block water getting into your barrel and also increase the risk of contamination.

"It's important to keep your water butt covered with a secure lid," says the experts at Envii. "Mosquitoes don’t like moving water, which means the still water in rain barrels is the perfect breeding ground for them. A secure, fastened lid will help to keep them out.

"If mosquitoes do make their way into your rain barrel, mix a small amount of olive oil with water and spray over the top of the stagnant water. This will create a film over the surface of the water and kill off the mosquito larvae."

How often do you need to clean a water butt?

When it comes to how often to clean a rain barrel, the expert advice is pretty consistent. "I advise cleaning your rain barrel annually," says Ruth Hayes, "either by disconnecting it and giving it a scrub or, more easily, by using a treatment that you can drop straight into the barrel."

The experts at Envii agree that once a year is the way to go. "Autumn is the best time to do it. Clean the outside of the butt using a garden hose to remove grime and stains. Scrub the interior to remove algae and sludge that builds up around the sides.

"Avoid using cleaning products as these can leach into the water and contaminate your soil when watering plants. Instead, use warm water with a mild washing-up detergent, avoiding the use of antibacterial detergents."

By following these expert tips, you'll be able to make the most of your water butt – saving money on your bills and lowering your carbon emissions while giving your plants healthier water.

For more garden advice, read our guide on the best time to water your plants or learn what drip irrigation systems are.

Pruning olive trees will keep them looking their best, and it's really easy to do.

Naturally, they're a favourite for Mediterranean planting schemes, and look particularly striking in a large terracotta pot. They're easily one of the best trees for small gardens, with their silvery leaves, elegant structure and tolerance to drought.

If you have one, at some stage, you'll probably wonder when and how to give it a trim. Once you've got the right tools at the ready, it couldn't be simpler.

How do I prune an olive tree?

Follow these steps on how to prune olive trees to keep them happy, healthy and looking great in your garden design:

Step one:
Start by gathering your tools. For smaller trees, a pair of bypass secateurs or pruning shears may be all you need, but for more mature trees, you may want to invest in a hand saw or loppers.

Make sure you clean your pruning shears or other cutting tools and ensure they are sharp before you begin, to prevent damaging the plant or spreading any lingering diseases or pest.

Step two:
Shorten any dead, diseased, or dying shoots, cutting them at a slant right back to live, healthy growth.

Step three:
Then, you can work on cutting back weaker, thinner branches to open up the structure at the center of the tree. This will allow it to get more sunlight and ensure a brisk flow of air, explains John Negus, a renowned horticulturalist and gardening journalist.

"Provided you remove only a small amount of growth ­– no more than 23cm ­– from the central leader and other stems, it won't trigger what are called 'water shoots'," adds John. These appear from drastically pruned stems and have no value to the tree.

Step four:
Speaking of, remove any existing water shoots you spot, as well as any suckers on the trunk below the main fork of the tree.

Step five:
If you want to restrict the size of your olive tree, which is common if using them for container gardening, the RHS says to tip prune the main branches. Simply cut them back to a strong replacement shoot.

What you will need

When is the best time for pruning olive trees?

The best time to prune olive trees is between mid-spring and early summer, advises John Negus. Olives are more susceptible to frost damage if you prune them during colder temperatures, so it's much better to wait until the weather is warmer.

According to Thompson & Morgan, olive trees grown in pots may need another light prune later in the summer to help keep their size in check.

Avoid pruning if rain is forecasted, too, as doing so in wet conditions makes them more vulnerable to disease.

It's also wise to wait until your olive is at least two years old to start pruning it. After that, an annual trim will be beneficial.

What are the benefits of pruning olive trees?

As is the case when pruning shrubs and other trees, giving olive trees an annual cut has many benefits.

First, there's the aesthetic value: it helps to create a neater, more visually-pleasing, wine-glass-shaped structure. And then there's the boost it can give to the trees' health.

Pruning out dead or diseased wood will enable it to grow stronger. For instance, some olive trees can suffer from fungal infections, such as olive peacock spot, which causes leaves to turn yellow and develop 'eyed' blotches. Cutting off and discarding all the affected growth can help it bounce back to its former glory.

What's more, opening up the structure of the olive tree can prevent it from getting some diseases in the first place, and will enable all areas of the tree to get as much sunlight as possible to grow healthily and produce more fruit.

Pruning your olive tree is one of the easiest ways to ensure it thrives all year long, preventing disease and helping it grow stronger, so it's well worth adding it to your gardening to-do list before the colder weather hits.

For more advice and inspiration, read our guide on the worst time to prune hedges or browse through these Mediterranean garden ideas.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

If you're in the market for new bathroom flooring, you might be tempted to cut corners by rushing the preparation or choosing the first attractive material you find and hoping for the best.

However, bathroom experts have warned that flaws as little as a slightly off gradient could result in big problems in the long run, which can be costly to repair and waste more time.

To help you get the job done once – and properly – we asked bathroom design experts to share the most common flooring mistakes they see people make, so you can avoid them.

1. Not checking if the flooring is suitable for wet, humid conditions

Before you invest in brand-new flooring, it's worth double-checking whether it's suitable for your bathroom's conditons, recommends Yarl Christie, Founder of Stories Flooring.

"One of the biggest mistakes we see is people choosing bathroom flooring ideas purely for the overall look, without checking it is actually rated for wet, high-humidity conditions," he says. "Materials such as laminate or standard engineered wood can swell, warp or delaminate once they are exposed to daily splashes and condensation."

You'll also need to take slip resistance into consideration. While a beautiful glossy tile can serve up style points, it becomes a hazard when it gets wet, which is less than ideal for a bathroom setting.

Side note: My former flat had black, shiny tiles, and they were an absolute nightmare to keep clean. We basically had to live with constant footprints and splash marks. I've vowed to never live anywhere with dark glossy tiles ever again!

Shop these bathroom-proof flooring picks

2. Poor preparation

If you want your bathroom flooring to stand the test of time, preparation is key. Before you even think about laying it, you'll need to install a properly waterproofed subfloor, explains Yarl Christie. Failing to do this is one of the most expensive mistakes to make, as you'll likely have to rip up the entire floor and start again if it isn't done correctly.

"A properly installed subfloor, correct waterproofing and tanking system, and a level surface are what prevent problems like cracked tiles, loose grout and water damage further down the line," adds Vic Slovak, co-director of VOSC Bathrooms.

3. Incorrect installation

The slightest mistake in the gradient can result in pools of water collecting on your bathroom or wet room flooring, warns Vic Slovak. "This affects both the practicality of the space and its longevity."

Fitting your tiles too close to walls and fixtures is also a no-no, says Yarl Christie. Without an expansion gap, you may see tenting, cracking or lifting as the material expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity.

He adds, "Oversized tiles in a small bathroom need to be cut awkwardly around the toilet and basin, and poorly planned grout lines or thresholds can create trip hazards between rooms."

4. Choosing the wrong tile size or pattern

Contrary to popular belief, having a small bathroom doesn't mean you're limited to a smaller tile size. According to Lesley Taylor, Interior Designer and Founder of Baked Tiles, "a larger-format porcelain tile can reduce the number of grout lines and make the floor feel far less busy."

“The reverse can be true in a wet room, where the floor needs to fall towards the drain. A very large rigid tile may be difficult to use across that change in level without specialist cutting, so a smaller format or mosaic can sometimes be the more practical option," she adds.

Pattern is another area that people often get wrong. While the design might look great in a single image, Lesley says you need to understand the full picture of the room, including how it will appear when sanitaryware is installed. The solution? "Lay out several tiles together and identify the strongest parts of the design."

5. Forgetting aftercare

While some bathroom flooring requires little to no maintenance, you'll need to take extra care with natural materials, such as stone, which require regular sealing and ongoing aftercare.

"Use the cleaning products recommended for the material and accept that some stones will develop a softer patina as the bathroom is used. The mistake is not choosing stone; it is choosing stone while secretly hoping it will behave like a piece of plastic," says Grazzie Wilson, Head of Creative at Ca’ Pietra.

"The finish is what people see, but it's everything underneath that determines how long your bathroom flooring will last," concludes Viktor Slovak.

For more expert-backed advice, find out why wooden flooring in a bathroom is a bad idea and whether laminate is waterproof.

I attend every Homebuilding and Renovating Show around the country, and if I'm not on stage delivering talks then I'm in the 'Ask an Expert' area, conversing with homeowners, renovators and self-builders.

One of the topics I'm asked about most is compliance with Building Regulations, and even more so since the introduction of the Future Homes Standard. Designed to set new standards for home building – primarily around reducing carbon emissions – the guidelines cover a wide range of changes you will need to adhere to.

But, while the new rules may not be fully enforceable until 2028, if you're already engaged with an architect to design your new home, here's why I believe you need to work to the guidelines now to protect yourself in the future.

How will the Future Homes Standard impact new homes?

The latest update to the Future Homes Standard was published on 24 March 2026. It does not include existing buildings or renovations, and it basically sets updated regulations to ensure that new homes are targeting improved carbon reduction targets of 75% - 80% compared with 2013 emissions.

It mandates low carbon heating (effectively banning the use of fossil fuel boilers), high levels of insulation and airtightness, and on-site solar generation, which must be at least a minimum of the equivalent area of 40% of the homes ground floor area where feasible. In addition, the home must include smart EV charging and advanced ventilation.

I often say that Building Regulations are not there as a target, they are in fact a minimum standard, which is why I believe anyone renovating or building a new home, regardless of the date, should ideally be aiming higher than Building Regulations minimum standards at all times.

So, even though the Future Homes Standard doesn't come into force until March 2027 (with a transitional period to March 2028 for older projects), if you are already in talks with an architect about your self-build plans, I urge you to work to these new standards now and here's the 5 areas I think you should be paying attention to.

1. Don't work to the official dates – they could catch you out

As mentioned, the Future Homes Standard officially comes into force on 24 March 2027, with a 12-month transitional period running until March 2028 for older projects. This is a statutory deadline and is the bit that could trip you up.

March 2027 may still feel like a while away, and it would be easy to assume that if you get planning permission and start building before that date then you will still only have to comply with the old system.

However, this is only true if you submit a building notice or full plans application before 24 March 2027, or have made a ‘meaningful start’ to the project before March 2028.

Under current Building Regulations, a 'meaningful start' means that the ground floor level structure is fully in place. But, in building terms, that can take time depending on the size, construction method and overall house design. Add in potential planning delays and you could find yourself getting closer to the deadline than you thought.

The consequences of missing the date when you can still be assessed under the old system? Not great. You will need to redesign the home to fully comply, even if you have already started, but not yet reached the completion of the ground floor structure.

2. SAP calculations will be replaced by the Home Energy Model

There is a massive learning curve with all of the Building Regulations, and none more so than energy efficiency, which falls under Part L (Conservation of Fuel and Power) of the Building Regulations.

For many years, the process to prove that your home complies with minimum efficiency levels has been basic.

Your local authority defines what the Target Emission Rate (TER) is for the building, and this is a figure that is created by taking into account the CO2 emissions of the building in normal use, and it can vary according to location or site-specific requirements.

This minimum standard is given as a number, and the home, when built, must then have a lower Dwelling Emmission Rate (DER) than the TER in order to get approval.

To prove what the DER is, a piece of software called SAP (Standard Assessment Procedure) is currently used to take into account all the insulation figures for the materials in the walls, roof, floor, windows and doors, how draughty the home is and also the specification of all heating, ventilation and renewable energy generation appliances.

The biggest issue with this is that it is fundamentally based on averages. So, put very simply, if you installed less insulation in the home, but put extra solar panels on the roof, then you could still pass the regs.

This process got improved as updates to Part L were implemented, but it still allowed you to offset the issue of high emissions from gas or oil boilers by including renewable energy.

This is all about to change which is why you shouldn't rely on it any longer. SAP calculations will be phased out and a new tool known as the Home Energy Model (HEM) will be used. All HEM software must be based on a Government calculation engine so that any companies making their own calculation tools cannot ‘interpret’ the rules differently.

There will be a migration of the technical resources from SAP to HEM so all the empirical data and testing of building materials and appliances to date will be carried across. So while it's not a complete reinvention of the wheel, it is undoubtedly a major overhaul and update you need to be conscious of – particularly if you are know you will sell your home on in the future.

3. Be careful if you are converting a barn or existing building

The Future Homes Standard only applies to new build homes. It does not apply to barn conversions or Material Change of Use (MCU) properties such as turning a shop, church or school into a home.

However, this is potentially where some grey areas exist. While you may well be creating a 'new home' where one previously didn't exist, you will still legally be allowed to keep a boiler, or fit a boiler in a barn conversion or MCU building. But, you will still be liable to adhere to other Building Regs updates.

You will still need to comply, for example, with the updated Approved Document Part L (volume 1: Dwellings) which has tightened the rules on U-values for all the fabric details.

And, if you retain the original structure, but replace more than 50% of a specific surface area, then you must legally upgrade the insulation in those entire elements to the latest standards.

This does come with a caveat though, as if there are any fabric constraints in older buildings then you are only required to insulate the building to the point where it is technically, and feasibly, possible.

4. Overheating rules will apply and you can't rely just on air-con

Part O (Overheating), must also be complied with in all new homes. You will most likely need a formal assessment to prove that the home will not overheat in summer, especially if it has large areas of architectural glazing.

Unlike SAP calcs which looked at the average overheating risk for the whole home, Part O now looks at all of the high-risk areas in isolation.

There is also a hierarchy of remedial action you have to follow for overheating, and it's not necessarily a case of just including air conditioning as standard.

Passive solutions, such as cross ventilation, are the first steps, followed by the addition of ceiling fans, and only if you can prove that these cannot work will you be allowed to install air conditioning and other active cooling systems.

There are also amendments to Approved Document Part F (Ventilation) that mandate strict testing and commissioning of fixed ventilation systems to combat damp issues that could be caused by improved insulation levels.

5. Make sure you understand your rights

Another important update to both Part F and Part L is the introduction of Regulation 40C.

This new Regulation requires that any instructions and system information provided to homeowners or occupiers must be delivered in an ‘appropriate format’ that is accessible, understandable and usable, and should be provided in both a digital and physical format.

The guide needs to explain how systems such as ventilation, heating and on-site energy generation work in everyday terms. Making sure you receive these documents now could help in the future when collating the necessary documents you need to sell your home.

In conclusion, whether you are building in two years time or now, homes should and must be designed with renewable energy in mind from the outset, alongside a more efficient fabric, controlled ventilation systems such as MVHR, better construction and installation methods, low carbon heating systems such as heat pumps, and on-site energy generation.

The new standards means there is equal emphasis on design, delivery and user understanding. Homes will now be expected to generate their own energy, operate efficiently, and provide occupants with the knowledge they need to use them properly.

The changes are for the better, which means that for homeowners currently planning to build a new home, following them now will undoubtedly be the best route.

It may be a bit more onerous, but you will end up with a much better product and ensure that your home is future-proofed for you, and any new owners should you choose to sell and move on.

If you are renovating, remodelling or building an extension, finding ways to draw in natural light, provide far-reaching views and bring in plenty of fresh air to your home are all likely to be top of your list of your priorities – after all, who doesn't love spending time in bright and breezy spaces?

The good news is that there are so many types of windows and glazing options available these days that achieving all of the above is possible. And, when it comes to the upper storeys of a house, using a Juliet balcony can be one of the best options.

If you are toying with the idea of installing a Juliet balcony but are unsure whether or not this feature is going to be quite right for your home and what you are trying to achieve, our expert-led guide is here to help.

What is a Juliet balcony?

First up, what exactly is a Juliet balcony?

It is important to recognise that rather than being a type of window, this is actually something quite different, as Edward Stobart, technical sales manager at IDSystems, explains. "A Juliet balcony is an exterior fixed balustrade attached to a full height window or door, such as bifold doors.

"It is named a Juliet balcony after the famous scene from Romeo and Juliet where Juliet stands at her window and declares her love to Romeo," continues Edward. "The Juliet balcony is a way to have glazing on upper floor levels and still achieve a traditional balcony look without the need for an additional external structure.

"Modern Juliet balconies are often constructed using frameless glass which allows for maximum natural light to enter the room and give large viewing areas internally."

Are there different types of Juliet balcony?

Juliet balconies come in all kinds of shapes, sizes and designs, meaning that whether you are considering one for your modern extension, or need balcony ideas that are a little more traditional in style, there should be an option for you.

"There are three main types of Juliet balcony – frameless glass, framed glass and metal railings," picks up Edward Stobart. "Frameless glass balconies are the most popular type of balcony due to the fact that they don't interrupt views and allow for the maximum amount of natural light to pass through. They are a modern feature that can be used as part of a new build, extension or loft conversion.

"Framed glass Juliet balconies are slightly more intrusive, but can be suitable for larger openings, while metal railings (either steel or wrought iron) are best suited for homes that require a decorative feature or are required to comply with certain planning conditions," adds Edward.

Where do Juliet balconies work best?

In the not too distant future, I am hoping to extend out over the flat roof of our kitchen extension, and a Juliet balcony is something I've been considering in order to make the most of the views. That said, I have to admit I have, at times, wondered what the point of Juliet balconies is given that you don't actually get a traditional balcony to step out onto and enjoy.

Edward Stobart explains to me where they work best. "The main use of a Juliet balcony is for safety reasons, as Building Regulations Approved Document K requires guarding where there is a risk of a fall from an opening at height. In this case a Juliet balcony is a fantastic solution as it enables the full height of the window or door to be opened to allow air into the room.

"Also, the larger glazed area adds a real design feature to the room and enhances the view out, as well as dramatically increasing the amount of natural light let in.

"Loft conversions, master bedrooms and even first floor living rooms can benefit from the addition of a Juliet balcony as they maximise natural light, ventilation and views to these rooms," continues Edward.

"A Juliet balcony can also be a cost-effective alternative to a full balcony where space, or indeed planning, is not an option, adding many of the advantages of a balcony without the expense or disruption of adding a fully projecting one.

"Internally a Juliet balcony feature can look very clean and contemporary too," he adds, "and, as it does not project out from the external walls, it is a feature that can be relatively easily used on existing buildings, as well as new builds."

What types of full-height glazing do they work with?

In order to get the most out of your Juliet balcony you need to choose the best style of windows or doors to match it.

"Juliet balconies can be installed alongside almost any type of full-height glazing, including French doors, sliding doors, bifold doors and full-height tilt and turn windows," says Edward Stobart. "They are particularly effective with ultra-slim sliding doors or large aluminium windows, where maintaining uninterrupted views is a key design choice."

Do you need planning permission for a Juliet balcony?

According to Zaeem Chaudhary, director and chartered architectural technologist (MCIAT) at AC Design Solution, in the majority of cases, planning permission will not be required to install a Juliet balcony. "Most replacements will fall within permitted development, but planning permission may be needed in conservation areas, listed buildings or where the opening itself requires consent."

"It’s always best to check with the local planning authority first though as every house is different," points out Edward Stobart. "Houses in conservation areas, listed buildings and/or houses which have previously had restrictions placed on them by planning, are likely to need further approval for these kinds of alterations."

What building regulations do you need to comply with?

Even where planning permission isn't required, you will still need to comply with the relevant building regulations if you want to ensure you are installing your Juliet balcony legally, and in a way that will ensure the safety of your household.

"Any guarding protecting an opening at height must comply with the relevant building regulations," picks up Edward Stobart. "The guarding must be strong enough to withstand specified loads, and typically needs to achieve a minimum height of 1100mm when protecting upper-floor openings.

"Gaps within the guarding should also be designed to prevent small children from passing through," continues Edward. "These requirements and the specification of the glass are covered within Approved Document K. Products should always be supplied and installed in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations."

How much do Juliet balconies cost?

There are two elements to consider when working out how much a Juliet balcony is going to cost you – the price of the balustrade and the cost of new windows or doors.

"Costs vary considerably depending on size, material and specification," explains Edward Stobart. "A simple metal railing can start from a few hundred pounds, while premium frameless glass systems, supplied and professionally installed are typically more expensive. Homeowners should also factor in the cost of the associated glazing, installation and any structural alterations required for the opening itself."

"Costs typically range from £500 to £2,500+ depending on size and specification," adds Zaeem Chaudhary.

FAQs

Can you fit a Juliet balcony on a DIY basis?

Understandably, some people are keen to have a go at installing a Juliet balcony on a DIY basis, usually in a bid to make some savings on their overall renovation or extension costs. But is this a good idea?

"While some systems are available for DIY installation, professional fitting is strongly recommended," says Edward Stobart. "A Juliet balcony is a critical safety feature that must be securely fixed into the building's structure and installed in accordance with the manufacturer's guidance and building regulations. Incorrect installation could compromise both safety and compliance."

Juliet balconies are one of the best loft balcony ideas around so if you are considering converting your attic space into a habitable room, make sure you consider them, alongside alternatives such as skylight balconies.

Or, if space is no issue and you do want somewhere to step out onto, consider these roof terrace ideas instead.