When it comes to specifying heating and energy solutions in our homes there is a new catch-word creeping into the conversations. The word is electro-tech, and even though it is a generic term, it is being adopted in our everyday language when discussing modern homes.

First adopted by economists and energy experts to collectively describe the global shift away from fossil fuels, and the move towards digitally driven, highly efficient, electrically based technologies, it's evolved to take into account renewable energy sources, and the electrification of our homes.

But what does it really mean for homeowners? In this article I'll break down the key categories of home-based electro-tech, how to maximise performance and functionality, and what you need to consider if you're designing a self build, renovating or extending your home.

What are the main domestic electro-tech categories?

Although electro-tech has evolved to mean almost any electrically based technology that we use in our homes, there are four main categories that stand out as ones that demonstrate the move towards a different style of home:

• Renewable energy supply: the use of green energy suppliers and the installation of solar panels to generate your own energy on site
• Heating source: the use of heat pumps instead of gas and oil boilers
• Smart homes: management of energy use through smart meters, battery storage and better controls, such as smart heating systems
• Electric vehicles: the switch away from fossil fuels to electricity by using electric vehicles, rather than diesel and petrol models

Although each of them serves different purposes – and as I'll come on to explain, can operate independently – the over-arching single power supply and management is where the potential value can lie. But, it's also where the risks can become apparent if you don't properly design and specify your electro-tech home

Pros and cons of an electro-tech home

Aside from the ecological advantage of reducing the need for fossil fuels, one of the the main advantage of electro-tech is that everything is connected back to your home distribution board. The fact it runs on one type of energy source, makes it potentially easier to control and manage more effectively.

Instead of juggling several supplies of power, such as gas, electric and even oil or LPG, the electricity supply coming into the home will then deliver energy and power to all parts of the home via one output source.

Even if you have solar PV panels then they too will be wired to a solar panel inverter which converts the direct current (DC) to a 230v alternating current (AC), which is also then connected to the distribution board.

A solar battery store will also be connected to the distribution board via an inverter – often the same one that manages the PV generation. Your EV charger will also be connected to the main supply and distribution board, although it could be done in a more complicated way.

In essence, you can picture the distribution board a bit like the central hub of a bicycle wheel where all the spokes – the electro-tech – join back to it.

Requirements for an efficient electro-tech set-up

On the flip side of the coin, however, the potential risk of electro-tech is that although the singular approach can streamline everything, making sure your home can handle it is another.

Most homes have a 230v single phase electricity supply and they will have a limited load capability, often 80Amps or 100Amps. If it is lower than that, then you should speak to your supplier, or the Distribution Network Operator (DNO), to see if you can get a bigger supply, as 100 Amps is about as low as you really want to go.

In real terms, this means that you can only run 18kW or 23kW total load at any one time. Exceed this and the home will overload and the supply will trip off.

To put the load vs supply into perspective, we need to look at what the likely maximum load could be in the home to help you understand what is required.

As an example, when considering just your kitchen appliances, an average oven uses 3kW, each plate on the hob is around 1.5kW, the washing machine (while heating up) uses 3 kW, a tumble dryer is between 1-5kW, the kettle 2kW and a microwave 1kW.

An air source heat pump will use between 2-5kW, the electric immersion in the hot water cylinder also draws 3kW, and an electric shower between 6kW and 8kW. An EV charger draws 7kW.

Then, as well as the bigger load appliances, you will also have a lot of background loads such as lights, computers, games, TV, chargers etc that will also add up.

If you use a combination of these appliances, plus background load and it all adds up to more than the load capacity (18kW to 23kW,) then the risk is the home electricity supply could overload and trip off.

The important of smart home tech

Although none of the appliances and technologies actually need the other systems in order to work, but it often makes sense to control them to work in tandem with each other.

As well as streamlining the amount of work the homeowner has to do to get each part working, adopting a smart home approach can also help prevent the biggest risk – overload on your electricity supply.

Many management software systems will manage the maximum load and prioritise what is most important. So for example, if it is important that the car gets charged then the software will turn off other, lower-priority appliances, or turn down the car charger output for the five minutes that the kettle is boiling. You set the priority; the software manages it.

However, there is still work to be done in this field, and most manufacturers make their own controls, often with their own logic and algorithms. It can therefore be difficult to find different technologies that can ‘talk’ to each other if they are made by different manufacturers.

It can often be enough to have simple controls that only turn appliances on or off, but in the case that the appliance can modulate, then you need the controls to be able to turn the appliance up and down rather than simply on or off.

As a result of the move towards electro-tech homes, it is becoming more common though that many manufacturers now have agreements with software creators that allow the different technologies to be fully managed by third party controls.

Preparing for an electro-tech home

The key trick to getting your home's electro-tech right, and functioning without problems, means knowing in advance how much power you will need to use.

As a home renovator or self builder, it is very important to know the full list of products that you would ultimately like to have in your home. This way, you can be sure to install a controls platform that supports all of them.

Don’t just think about now, think into the future – even if you think it is a very distant dream. Maybe you don’t yet have an electric vehicle, but it is on the radar for the next few years?

If so, choose an EV charger that will be able to be controlled by the same software. If you have solar power, make sure that the charger can also be left in stand-by mode so that the car can be automatically topped up if you have excess generation. Many car chargers also have the facility to connect CT clamps. These guard against overloading the home.

If you are designing a self build and need to arrange for power connection, you might also want to consider investigating the option of a three phase electricity supply. This will spread heavy electrical loads across three phases, rather than one, reducing the risk of overload.

While this will be more expensive to install, it could offer some protection for the future as the electrification of homes continues.

Don't assume battery storage solves the issue of overload

“But what if I have battery storage? Doesn't that make a difference,” I hear you ask.

Battery storage does not add to the overall maximum load of the home, and it also needs to be managed. The maximum load of a battery is also limited by the solar panel inverter. Why? Because the energy stored in the battery is also DC, so it too needs to be converted in order to be used in the home.

If the same inverter is used to convert the PV generation and the battery energy, then that is limited to the size of the PV panel array. So, if you have a typical PV installation of around 10 panels on your roof, then this will be around a 4kW maximum supply.

This basically means that you cannot use more than 4kW at any time. Any load above 4 kW will come from the grid, no matter how big the battery is.

Management is simple maths, but can mean you need to either set schedules, or remember to turn things on and off.

Let’s say you want to run the washing machine and the tumble dryer and they both draw 3 kW each and you have a 14kWh battery. In theory, this is enough to cover the 6kWh use of the appliances, but it runs through a 4kW inverter. Therefore, instead of running the 2 appliances together (drawing 6kW for 1 hour) you will need to schedule them to run one after the other (drawing 3kW over 2 hours) to maximise the energy use in the battery.

My final advice for electro-tech? As we get more and more ‘stuff’ in our homes, and we replace fossil fuels with electrically driven technologies, we need to be sure of two main things.

First, that we have enough energy to run what we need, and second, that all the systems and appliances we have can be optimised and controlled to meet our expectations. After all, there is no point in having all the electro-tech if any of it is not going to be used.

To dive deeper into the different elements of an electro-tech home, take a look at what I've changed since first installing a heat pump in 2018, and view my thoughts on whether the changes we are making can ever result in a zero energy bills home.

Trends, however ill-advised they were the first time round, always seem to resurface. Whether or not you have been seduced by the highly glamorous lifestyles of the Rivals cast, with their swathes of aqua blue eyeshadow, rippling muscles and chest hair, you can't have failed to notice that elements of 1980s design has been creeping its way back into all kinds of areas of the present day – not least into the world of interior design trends.

You might, quite understandably, be feeling a little nervous of this 1980s interiors revival. After all, some things are most definitely best left in the past – carpet in the bathroom anyone? But fear not, this renaissance is all about bringing back some of the best elements of the era, reimagining them in a modern, far more refined, way.

We reached out to some top interior experts for their advice on how to work this look into your home, while avoiding it looking like flashy, gaudy or overdone.

Weave in bold 1980s colours – but do it with subtlety

Homes in the 1980s were dominated by several, some might say clashing, colour schemes. Eye-popping neons were big news, but so too were candy shop-inspired pastels. Primary 'power' colours were much-loved too, as were stark black and white schemes (Google the Deetz's dining room from Beetlejuice if you want proof.)

Cathryn Sanders, head of creative at Earthborn, explains how these paint trends are being used in 2026. "The 1980s is returning in a much softer and more refined way than many people remember. We're seeing a renewed appreciation for colour, individuality and interiors that feel expressive, which were all key characteristics of the decade.

"One of the biggest influences making a comeback is the use of richer, more confident colour palettes," continues Cathryn. "Soft peach tones, dusty pinks, terracotta shades, warm browns and deep blues are all finding their way back into contemporary interiors. The difference today is that they're often paired with natural materials which stops them from feeling overly nostalgic."

Use small details to give the 1980s a nostalgic nod

The key when embracing any kind of design revival, be that Georgian style or the 1980s, and particularly when referencing those that were not known for their subtlety, is to introduce elements of the era, as opposed to creating a carbon copy.

Debbie Leigh, design manager at ILIV, explains how to bring popular patterns from the era, such as abstract shapes, kitsch florals and geometrics, into the home. "Expressive design, rich jewel tones and graphic prints are having a moment right now, thanks to our renewed love of the 1980s. The key difference is that today's homeowners are using these elements more thoughtfully.

"For a contemporary take on the trend, we'd suggest introducing these 1980s-inspired accents through soft furnishings," continues Debbie. "Cushions, curtains and upholstery are a great way to experiment with bold patterns or vibrant colours without committing to a full room redesign. As for what to leave in the past? We'd be cautious of overly busy schemes where every surface competes for attention."

"1980s interiors are definitely gaining popularity, thanks to TV shows like Rivals and Stranger Things," picks up Lizzie Mosley, creative director at Hug Rug. "Its interiors are defined by palettes of bold neon tones, as well as softer pastels like mint green and baby blue, while patterns range from sleek geometrics to country florals. Rugs can easily be used to incorporate a touch of 1980s style without overwhelming the scheme."

Shop 1980s decorative flourishes

Get on board with colour drenching – it's nothing new

Ever heard of the saying 'there is nothing new under the sun'? It basically means that everything is cyclical and this is most certainly the case with interior design trends – colour drenching being an excellent case in point.

We might all think we're being terribly modern by dousing the same shade of paint over the entirety of a room, but the 1980s saw homeowners doing just this – although perhaps in a less refined way. After all, this was an era when clashing colours and a more-is-more approach was to be embraced.

"We've already seen a return to colour drenching, statement paint colours and a willingness to embrace decorative details," says Cathryn Sanders. "What people often remember about 1980s interiors is the excess, but what designers are taking from the era today is the confidence. It's less about recreating a period look and more about embracing colour and individual personalities."

Embrace statement furniture – but with less of the gloss

Shiny, lacquered furniture, surfaces and finishes were all highly desirable back in the 1980s when the more synthetic materials you could squeeze into your home, the better.

Laura Rich, interior designer at Furniturebox, explains that statement furniture is definitely back, but without the bling. "1980s interior design is like Marmite. We’re seeing elements creep their way back into our home decor but I’m doubtful we’ll see a full-blown revival. The era saw theatrical statement homes that were often filled to the brim with unapologetic maximalism – bright, clashing colours, geometric shapes, chintzy patterns, and glamour in excess.

"Curved, sculptural furniture is one of the easiest trends to embrace because it instantly adds character to a room without feeling overpowering," continues Laura. "Adding a focal point with a statement tub chair-inspired sofa or curved coffee table complemented with textured fabrics, wood and stone makes a home feel warm and inviting but with personality," continues Laura. "Embracing 1980s interiors isn’t about replicating them but rather drawing inspiration and borrowing elements."

Julia Bilotta, creative stylist at Sofology, agrees that a refined take on statement pieces is the way to go if you want your living room design to stand the test of time.

"Rivals has brought a renewed appreciation for the 1980s, especially the era’s confident use of sculptural seating and generous, low‑slung silhouettes. It was a decade that embraced form as much as comfort. To introduce the era into the home, look for sofas with softened geometric lines and modular configurations that allow you to build out a statement shape. Pairing these forms with textured upholstery or subtle contrast piping brings a contemporary refinement."

Shop statement 1980s-inspired furniture

Swap shiny orange wood finishes for pale matt

An abundance of orange, glossy wood finishes – everywhere – was seen as very sophisticated in the 1980s (a quick peek inside Freddie and Mousey's Rivals home should be all you need to convince you of this).

While wooden flooring and timber wall finishes are very much on-trend right now, the look has been totally reimagined, as Adam Robertson, MD of Urbane Living , explains. "When looking back at flooring trends from the 1980s, it is easy to see how dominant orange-toned woods became, often paired with mid-width planks and high-gloss finishes that can now feel quite heavy within a scheme. While they were of their time, those stronger undertones tended to dictate the rest of the interior palette."

"For anyone looking to reinterpret 1980s interiors in a more contemporary way, the key is to move away from the high gloss, heavily polished finishes that defined the era and instead focus on a more understated and natural approach to wood," picks up Ian Tomlinson, MD of Chaunceys Timber Flooring.

"For a more timeless look, we’re seeing a shift towards softer, more natural tones with a matt finish, which allows the character of the timber to come through without overpowering the space. Wider boards also help to create a calmer, more contemporary feel, as they reduce visual busyness and better showcase the grain."

Don't rule out wall-to-wall carpeting

While we're on the subject of types of flooring, wall-to-wall carpet has seen a major comeback of late – yet another 1980s trend making a reappearance.

Jodie Hatton, design manager at Brintons, explains why this is one trend to get back on board with. "Wall-to-wall carpeting was a symbol of true luxury in the 1980s, with homeowners opting for plush flooring that would introduce a sense of refined comfort and luxury in living rooms and bedrooms.

"In the 2020s, our homes have become sanctuaries, and with that we're seeing a return to homeowners embracing wall-to-wall carpet that creates a cosy and cocooning atmosphere.

"The colours and finishes of 1980s carpets are also making a comeback," continues Jodie. "Plush Berber carpeting and cut and loop finishes were favoured for their plush comfort and sophisticated appeal. Carpet was often chosen in light neutral tones like beige or a warm off-white that would form a versatile backdrop for the pastel colours and neon accessories also popular during the decade."

Layer – don't match – patterns

There was a very matchy-matchy approach taken to interiors during the 1980s – matching three-piece suites, matching furniture within bedroom design, matching curtains, lampshades, cushions and, deep breathes, curtain pelmets.

While many of the popular patterns from the 1980s have resurfaced – pretty florals, stripes and geometric designs, for example – these days they are being used in a more imaginative way.

"We're seeing a renewed appreciation for colour and pattern," explains Sophie Chapman associate and interior designer at The Vawdrey House. "Rather than using a single statement print, today's approach is about layering patterns, textures and colours to create interiors with personality and depth."

Dairine Nethercott, head of design at MOON, has some tips on the types of fabrics and textures to incorporate. "We’re seeing the return of traditional checks and tartans in the rich aristocratic shades of forest green, navy blue and oxblood, which provide depth and grandeur.

"Used in a wide range of bedroom ideas, these fabrics look great as skirting or allow for creative freedom on upholstered headboard ideas. Alongside modern colour blocking this gives the effect of the elegant country home without looking dated. To recreate the lived-in feel of 1980s interiors, layering together multiple textures – whether that’s velvet, mohair, wool or linen – is a good place to start."

Get reacquainted with cork flooring

As a child, my parents fitted all our bathroom with varnished cork flooring – and so did all of my friends' parents. Cork flooring was huge – and its back on the scene once again.

"Cork is making a welcome return," says Sophie Chapman. "Once considered a practical and affordable flooring option, it's now being recognised for its excellent sustainability credentials, acoustic properties and warmth underfoot."

The cork I remember was distinctly orange in colour, and a little shiny – how does Sophie say it has changed? "The difference today is in the finish – think natural, matt cork rather than the heavily varnished floors many of us remember from the 1980s."

Introduce elements of farmhouse-style into the kitchen

This is one trend many people will be really happy to hear is making a comeback – the farmhouse-style kitchen. That said, it has has definitely had a bit of a makeover.

Long gone are the overly-decorative, dark wood cabinet fronts, with their varnished finishes and visible knots, as are the wavy pelmets and matching wooden knobs. These days, the look is far more pared back.

Modern wooden kitchen ideas are a great place to start building the look – keep the design simple and then layer on homely details, such as gingham soft furnishings and a streamlined ceramic sink.

FAQs

Is the 1980s trend of carpet in the bathroom making a comeback too?

While the popularity of wall-to-wall carpet really peaked in the 1970s, it continued on into the 1980s and it was still common to fit carpet in the bathroom during this era – seen, at the time, as the ultimate in comfort and luxury. But carpet in the bathroom...really?

"Perhaps the biggest trend that should remain firmly in the past is carpeted bathrooms, whether on the floor or up the side of a bath which, believe it or not, I have seen," says Sophie Chapman. "While they may have felt luxurious at the time, practicality has thankfully prevailed."

If you like the idea of something soft underfoot in the bathroom, washable bathroom rugs or cork are both good alternatives.

While taking inspiration for your house design ideas from trends of the past is a great idea, it is important to ensure they are not passing fads.

If you are worried about investing in a look that will date fast, use smaller, more affordable, elements to get the look, such as decorative objects and soft furnishings.

Getting the design of a bedroom right is so important. Make a common design mistake and the space where you begin and end every day won't be as restful or restorative as you might hope.

Your bedroom design not only needs to ensure you get the best night's sleep possible, it should also take into account the fact that you may need to use the room to store your clothes, to get dressed and ready in, and even as a quiet space to retreat to for a moment of quiet during the day.

Unlike the more 'public' spaces in a house, such as living rooms, bedrooms are often not given as much attention as they deserve. To ensure your bedroom is a dream to spend time in, we're here to reveal the top bedroom design mistakes you need to avoid at all costs.

1. Underestimating storage needs

While it is understandable to want your bedroom storage ideas to tie in aesthetically with your overall scheme, do ensure that they are still capable of carrying out their primary function.

Simon Tcherniak, senior designer at Neville Johnson, explains how properly planned storage is essential in a bedroom. "One of the most common bedroom design mistakes we see is spaces without enough storage, which quickly leads to clutter. Mess can make the bedroom feel overwhelming, which in turn can make it difficult to relax or fall asleep at the end of the day. Instead of storage being an afterthought, we recommend fitted storage that can make the most of the space available, without compromising floor space."

Yaqub Khalid, design consultant at Ashford Kitchens & Interiors, agrees that for a bedroom to feel relaxing, good storage is key. "Storage doesn’t have to be complicated and you don’t need a walk-in wardrobe for a bedroom to function properly.

"Bedroom storage needs to balance aesthetics and practicality, so we’d advise bespoke, made-to-measure storage that maximises the space available to you. As this is unique to your home, it can be designed to your specific needs. From large, walk-in spaces to built-in wardrobes, the right storage is essential to create a tranquil sleeping environment."

2. Not exploring layered lighting

A well-planned and executed lighting design scheme has the ability to completely transform any space, but when it comes to your bedroom lighting ideas, it pays to consider the various moods this space needs to be capable of delivering.

"One of the most common lighting design mistakes is relying on a single overhead light," picks up Sophie Chapman, associate and interior designer at The Vawdrey House. "Bedrooms need to feel comfortable and adaptable throughout the day, so it's important to introduce layers of lighting. Bedside lamps, wall lights and softer ambient lighting can create a much more welcoming atmosphere as well as offering flexibility – for example when one person wants to read in bed or gets up earlier and needs to get dressed without disturbing their partner. We would also generally avoid cooler-toned bulbs, which can feel harsh, particularly in the evening when you're trying to wind down."

"When it comes to bedside wall lights, placement is everything, both for functionality and visual balance," picks up James Kendall, operations director at KES Lighting & Home. "A good rule of thumb is to position the light so the bottom of the shade or fitting sits around 50 to 60 cm above the top of the mattress. This ensures the light is at a comfortable eye level when sitting up in bed, reducing glare and creating a soft, relaxing atmosphere. Horizontally, you’ll want the wall light to sit around 15 to 20 cm from the edge of the bed.

"If you’re using fixed wall lights, take extra care with positioning to ensure the beam angle is appropriate, as you don’t want a direct spotlight in your eyes," adds James. "For more flexibility, swing-arm or adjustable wall lights are brilliant. They let you direct the light exactly where you need it without disturbing your partner."

Shop practical yet stylish bedroom lighting

3. Choosing the wrong type of flooring

Your bedroom flooring not only needs to feel warm and comfortable underfoot, it also forms an important part of the overall backdrop in terms of the decor scheme – so give it the attention it deserves.

"Hard flooring can work beautifully, but bedrooms benefit from warmth and softness underfoot," points out Sophie Chapman. "If carpet isn't the preferred option, a large rug beneath the bed can help define the space and make the room feel more comfortable."

Jodie Hatton, design manager at Brintons, has some useful tips on choosing the best options for bedrooms. "While wall colours, furniture and bedding often take centre stage, the floor is what you interact with first each morning and last each night before getting in and out of bed. Often referred to as the 'fifth wall', your flooring choice has a significant impact on the overall atmosphere and comfort of the space.

"Wall-to-wall bedroom carpet remains a popular choice for creating a warm, luxurious bedroom, but for homes with hard flooring, a large area rug can make just as much of a difference," continues Jodie. "The feeling underfoot when you step out of bed sets the tone for the day, and introducing a soft, plush rug instantly adds warmth and comfort where it's needed most."

4. Getting the paint colour all wrong

The colours you surround yourself in your bedroom will have a huge effect on how it feels to spend time in.

Rather than opt for the safest option, Sophie Chapman suggests choosing a shade based on the individual nature of the room. "When it comes to colour, many people either play it too safe or choose shades that feel disconnected from the room's natural light. Bedrooms are one of the few spaces where deeper colours can work exceptionally well, whether that's a soft olive green, a warm brown or a muted blue. The key is to consider how the room is used and how the light changes throughout the day."

The best bedroom colours are those that you enjoy being surrounded by so do ensure you aren't led too heavily by paint trends.

5. Failing to explore alternatives to paint

Which brings us nicely on to this next point. Make sure that you research the alternatives to simple painted walls. While they can work brilliantly, there are other options worth considering too, including wallpaper.

Ian Tomlinson, MD at Chaunceys Timber Flooring is keen to highlight how wooden wall panelling ideas can be perfect for bedrooms. "Wood can significantly enhance the cosiness of a bedroom, transforming it into a warm and inviting sanctuary.

"While wood is commonly used for flooring, its application on walls can create an even more relaxing atmosphere" adds Ian. "Using wooden planks as wall cladding adds texture and depth, creating a rustic charm that feels both timeless and sophisticated. The natural grain and colour variations of timber bring a sense of organic beauty, making the space feel calm and cosy."

6. Picking the wrong window treatments for the space

When it comes to choosing coverings to finish off your bedroom window ideas, you need to consider not just how well they will block out light, but also how they'll add to the overall scheme in terms of appearance.

Sophie Chapman reveals the common mistakes she often sees in this area. "Curtains that are too short, too narrow or made from lightweight fabrics can make a room feel unfinished while also allowing unwanted light into the space.

"Well-fitted curtains can significantly improve both the appearance and functionality of a bedroom," continues Sophie. "We often suggest layering curtains on double poles, combining sheer curtains with blackout-lined drapery, as this provides flexibility throughout the day. The sheers soften natural light and maintain privacy, while blackout curtains help create a darker, more restful environment when needed."

7. Being unimaginative with furniture

Your bedroom furniture choices might need to provide important practical functions but that doesn't mean you can't get a little imaginative with them. This is particularly important when it comes to your master bedroom ideas, where an indulgent feel should be the order of the day.

"Matching sets are a massive no-no," advises Sophie Chapman. "Try to have a stand out piece and then other items that are complementary, such as a four-poster bed or an eye-catching decorative chest of drawers."

Kate Palmer, creative director at The Painted Furniture Company, has some more advice on choosing bedroom furniture. "Choose furniture that works harder, whether that's a bed with storage drawers underneath, a well-designed wardrobe or versatile bedside tables that incorporate a drawer or cupboard. This will help keep everyday items neatly stored away, resulting in a bedroom that feels calm and restful, just as a bedroom should be."

Shop bedroom furniture with storage

8. Neglecting to consider heat sources

Your bedroom heating needs to be spot on if you want to ensure it is a comfortable space to spend time in. Underfloor heating is a great option that provides a gentle, ambient warmth but often bedroom radiators are the favoured option.

Nick Duggan, director at The Radiator Centre, explains the bedroom heating mistake he frequently witnesses being made. "One bedroom design mistake that's often overlooked is failing to consider heating as part of the overall design. The wrong radiator can take up valuable space, disrupt furniture layouts or simply not provide enough warmth to keep the room comfortable year-round.

"Today’s radiators come in a huge choice of colours, shapes and sizes, and by planning your heating alongside the rest of the room, you can choose a design that perfectly complements your scheme, whether you want something that blends in or acts as a focal point," adds Nick.

FAQs

How can you avoid mistakes when choosing bedroom accessories?

Introducing new accessories and soft furnishings is one of the easiest ways to quickly update your bedroom – and they can easily be swapped when you fancy a change.

Debbie Leigh, design manager at ILIV, has some tips on how to use soft furnishing to add texture and interest. "One of the most common bedroom design mistakes is feeling that everything has to match perfectly. A bedroom doesn't need curtains, cushions and bedding all in the same fabric to feel cohesive. In fact, overly matched schemes can often date more quickly and lack personality.

"Instead, focus on complementary colours, textures and patterns that work together," continues Debbie. "Mixing scales of pattern and introducing different textures will create a bedroom that’s more timeless and personal."

Don't forget to give your guest bedroom ideas lots of attention too – providing a comfortable restful spot for overnight visitors will make them feel really welcome.

So, you've invested in a smart doorbell to feel more secure, a robot vacuum to claw back a couple of hours on the weekend, and a smart thermostat because frankly, heating an empty house at full whack feels ridiculous. Well done – that all seems very sensible and futuristic of you.

But a small detail you may have overlooked is that every one of those devices could be silently collecting data about how you live: when you leave the house, when you come back, who visits, and what your daily routine looks like. That's not to say that anything sinister is going on, but it's simply how a lot of smart technology works.

The question worth asking isn't whether your smart home is watching you (it probably isn't, certainly not in the way the scarier corners of the internet would have you believe), but who has legitimate access to the data it generates. It's about what they're entitled to do with it, and whether you have any say in the matter. Spoiler: you have more control than you might think, but only if you know where to look.

What information is your smart home collecting?

It's tempting to think of smart devices as single-purpose tools: the best home security systems record visitors, smart thermostats control the heating, and your robot vacuum cleans the floor. But in practice, this tech collects considerably more information than the single action you think you're triggering.

Take your video doorbell. According to Jack Charman, private investigator at National Private Investigators, it isn't just storing clips. "It's logging motion events, timestamps, audio, device IDs and account links that tie everything back to a specific home."

Because it's rare to find a video doorbell without a subscription, you'll likely need to create an account to use it, and in doing so, you may be agreeing to share considerably more information than you realise.

Similarly, your smart thermostat can infer occupancy patterns from temperature adjustments and home or away modes. Your robot vacuum generates a detailed floor map of your property, and even smart plugs or bulbs can reveal which rooms are being used and when. "Individually these signals seem harmless," says Jack, "but combined they can form a surprisingly accurate behavioural timeline."

But it goes further than the devices themselves. Paul Bischoff, a consumer privacy advocate at Comparitech, notes that even relatively basic data can reveal more about you than you'd expect. "Using just an IP address and a timestamp, an observer could infer when you are home, when you go to work, how many people live in your house." Any device connected to your home Wi-Fi is capable of logging exactly that.

"The apps that control your devices are often the worst privacy offenders, though," adds Paul, "because they are on your phone, which probably holds a lot of your personal data." Depending on the permissions you've granted, a smart home app could be accessing your camera, microphone, stored files, contact lists and advertising identifiers on top of everything the device itself records.

Who can see your data and what are they allowed to do with it?

If you've ever clicked "I agree" on a smart home app without reading the small print, you're certainly not alone. But, under a legal basis called "legitimate interests" those terms and conditions often grant companies far more access to your data than you might expect. As Dray Agha, senior manager of security operations at Huntress, explains: "Legitimate interests is essentially a flexible legal justification that allows companies to process or share your data without your explicit consent, provided they can argue it is necessary for their business goals and doesn't severely infringe upon your fundamental privacy rights."

According to the ICO's guidance some examples of potential "legitimate interest" include:

• Improving their products or services : For example, your smart thermostat manufacturer may analyse how you adjust your heating schedule to inform future software updates
• Sharing data within a group of companies for internal administrative purposes: Amazon may pass your Ring doorbell usage data to its broader advertising division
• IT and network security monitoring: Your smart home platform may log device activity to detect unusual access patterns or potential account breaches
• Direct marketing based on your behaviour and preferences: Your energy app may use your consumption data to target you with offers for solar panels or EV chargers, though companies must also meet separate consent requirements under UK marketing rules

But it isn't a free pass. As Jack Charman explains: "The organisation has to show that the data use is necessary for a specific purpose, and then it has to balance its own interest against the impact on you as an individual. So if the impact on privacy is too high or unexpected, it shouldn't be allowed under this basis."

Legitimate interests also doesn't automatically cover everything a company might want to do with your data. "Under UK rules like PECR, many tracking technologies still require consent, even if a company tries to justify broader data use under legitimate interests," says Jack.

You have the right to object to processing under legitimate interests, and companies are required to be transparent about what they're doing with your data. But exercising those rights means knowing where to start.

How can you protect yourself and your home?

Thankfully, limiting what your smart home shares doesn't mean sacrificing the convenience that made installing it worthwhile. A few straightforward changes to how your devices are set up can significantly reduce the amount of behavioural data that gets stored and passed on.

Adjust what gets captured

If you're wondering whether home security cameras are safe, the short answer is yes, provided you're in control of what they capture and who can access it. Jack Charman recommends thinking carefully about where to put security cameras, adjusting angles and using privacy zones so you're not recording the street or neighbouring properties unnecessarily – something that also keeps you on the right side of home CCTV laws.

Turning down motion sensitivity reduces constant activity logging, and switching off audio recording removes one of the most sensitive data streams entirely. "These steps don't reduce core functionality, but they do cut down the amount of behavioural data that gets stored and shared over time," he says.

Review your app settings

Another top tip from the experts is to go into the settings of each device app and turn off anything that isn't essential to how you actually use it. For example, Dray Agha recommends opting out of "analytics" or "product improvement" data sharing, routinely deleting voice assistant command histories, and enabling auto-delete for activity data so old records don't accumulate indefinitely. It's also worth auditing any third-party connections you've enabled and revoking access for services you no longer use.

Isolate your devices on the network

Dray Agha also recommends moving all smart devices onto a dedicated guest Wi-Fi network. Doing so isolates them from your personal computers and smartphones, limiting how much data they can hoover up from the rest of your household.

Moving house? Don't forget to reset

If you're moving house, don't overlook the devices you're leaving behind. Jack Charman's advice is clear: fully reset every smart device and revoke cloud access before you hand over the keys. "You don't want old accounts carrying over into a new owner's home," and equally, you don't want your behavioural data going with it.

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For more advice on keeping your home secure, see our guides to how much home security systems cost and the best ways to protect your home from burglars.

As cute as they may be, moles can be an absolute nuisance in the garden, leaving unsightly muddy hills in their path (which isn't ideal when you've spent months perfecting your garden design).

While moles are not dangerous and don't tend to eat plants, their digging can cause a big old mess on your lawn, so we don't blame you if you're looking for ways to get rid of them.

However, it's worth bearing in mind that moles are protected against cruelty under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1996, so extra care needs to be taken when dealing with them (which we would recommend anyway). To find out how to prevent them from tearing up your garden, keep reading.

How do I get rid of moles in my lawn?

When it comes to preventing moles in your garden, it all boils down to making the environment as unappealing as possible so they don't want to stick around for long. You can do this in three ways:

1. Keep the soil dry

Moles prefer damp or wet soil because it's easier to dig through. If possible, Tony King, Founder of The Pied Piper, recommends reducing excessive irrigation. Not only will this make the environment harder for them to tunnel through, but it will also reduce their food source (worms).

2. Install a sonic device

You may also want to install ultrasonic repellers, which emit low-frequency sounds and vibrations that moles find uncomfortable (it won't harm or kill them). These devices are also commonly used around the home to prevent other unwanted pests, such as rats and mice.

3. Have a cat or dog

If you've been thinking about adopting a new furry friend, we have some good news – they may also help deter moles from your garden, according to Darren Backhouse, Partner at MJ Backhouse Pest Control. While we wouldn't encourage you to get a pet for just this reason, it is a little bonus!

Why have moles suddenly appeared in my garden?

Wondering why moles have suddenly started appearing in your garden?

Darren Backhouse explains, "Most people only notice they have a mole when molehills appear, so the mole might have been there longer than you realise. They're attracted to damp soil where there’s a good food source for them."

How long will moles live in a garden?

Unless the soil becomes too dry or their food source declines, Darren Backhouse says that moles won't go away on their own and can live for around two to five years, (depending on the presence of predators).

Should you stomp down mole tunnels?

You may think that stomping on a tunnel will help the moles get the memo, but according to Tony King, it's not going to rid of them.

However, it will help you to determine which tunnel was recently used. "[If they] rebuild a tunnel within a couple of days after collapse, it tells you there is activity present in that location," he says.

While there isn't a quick fix for banishing moles from your garden, these preventative steps will help reduce and remove them over time.

For more pest control advice, read our guide on how to get rid of ants in the garden and how to get rid of chafer grubs in your garden.

As someone who works from home, I dream of an office space in which to shut myself away, somewhere I can keep all my equipment and supplies neatly stowed. I long for a wall of shelving complete with lamps, folders and trailing plants, an inspiration board hanging on the wall – all made complete by a beautifully organised desk and super comfortable chair.

Instead, my home office design comprises the breakfast bar, where I perch on a particularly uncomfortable stool and am regularly disturbed by children, pets, deliveries and the noise of the dishwasher. Not for long though. As part of our planned remodel and extension we will be constructing a garden office which, we hope, will double as a guest bedroom with shower room.

If, like me, a garden office is on your wish list, you'll be pleased to know I've been doing some research that should help. I reached out to the experts to find out which types of garden office there are, and the pros and cons to expect from each.

1. Flat packed timber systems

When people begin to look at how to build a garden room they tend to start with flat pack garden offices, often made from timber. These are a great budget option, starting from as little as £1,000.

They come in various designs. At the very basic end of the spectrum they are little more than garden sheds, waiting to be upgraded, while more expensive models are more like sturdy log cabins. Often, this type of garden office is available with a number of optional upgrades, such as double glazing, thicker wall and floor construction, insulation and so on.

"Timber is usually the cheapest way in, and for a lot of people it's fine," picks up Peter Barr, managing director at SIPCO. "The catch is that it only works as a year-round room if the insulation and moisture control are sorted from the start. If you skip that, you get something that's freezing by November and stifling by July, which is no good if you're using it every day."

"These timber buildings can often be purchased from garden centres or online suppliers and installed within a day or two," adds Gabrielle Allen, director of operations at InFrame Garden Rooms. "They are a good option for occasional use spaces where budget is the main consideration.

"The downside is that these buildings can struggle with temperature control," continues Gabrielle. "There is also very little flexibility in terms of design or layout. When it comes to selling a property, these structures are often viewed more as storage spaces or upgraded sheds, rather than true additional living space."

Pros:

• Budget-friendly
• Range of upgrades
• Readily available
• Quick to get up and running

Cons:

• Temperature regulation can be difficult
• DIY assembly required
• Shorter lifespan than other build systems

2. Modular garden offices

Next up are modular garden offices. Again, these come in all kinds of sizes and designs and are usually customisable, with the option of adding features such as electricity, lighting, heating and so on. They are most often constructed from timber or structural insulated panels (SIPs), but composite and fibre cement are also available.

Prices start from around £6,000 for basic double-glazed, fully insulated models with multi-point locking systems designed to be constructed on a DIY basis. However, if you want more than simple garden room ideas and are willing to stretch your budget, you can layer on extras such as lighting, superior insulation and so on, and many companies also offer free construction services within a set radius too.

"Modular is the quick option. Set sizes, set finishes, fewer decisions to make, installed fast," says Peter Barr. "You trade flexibility for that though, so if you've got an awkward plot, or you care about where the glazing and doors land, it can feel a bit 'off-the-peg'."

Pros:

• Customisable yet cheaper than bespoke
• Range of construction materials, from timber to composite
• Huge design choice available
• Insulation, flooring and double glazing included
• Secure
• Installation often included

Cons:

• Less design flexibility than fully bespoke
• Quality varies – do your research

3. Bespoke brick and block structures

This option is basically like building a little house in your garden and offers tonnes of flexibility in terms of design. While an architect or house designer is not necessarily a requirement, taking this route will ensure you are making the most of the space you have available.

While some people bravely decide to undertake this kind of build on a DIY basis, timescales are likely to be longer than for other types of garden room construction when opting for this route – hence why most people hire a builder to carry out the work.

It is extremely difficult to give costs for this type of structure given the fact that each will be different and, if you plan on adding in plumbing for bathrooms and kitchens, garden room heating and so on, costs will obviously rise. It is fair to say, however, that this is usually a more expensive route than either modular or flat-packed.

While garden room planning permission is not usually required for this type of structure, provided it falls within permitted development rights, building regulations will most certainly need to be adhered to.

Pros:

• Design and layout freedom
• Solid, well-insulated construction
• Add value to a house
• Various cladding options
• Useable year-round

Cons:

• Foundations required
• More expensive than modular or flat-pack
• Professional input usually needed
• Building regs approval necessary
• Longer build times

4. Timber frame buildings

A bespoke timber frame garden office is a beautiful way of creating a garden room or outbuilding.

Merry Albright, creative director at Border Oak, explains what this route involves. "Our garden offices are based upon the same construction principles as our oak framed outbuildings, but have upgraded and insulated panels so they form extra accommodation and work well as studios, home offices, art and craft rooms or a range of mixed uses. Often the buildings are weatherboarded as this is a good material for all sorts of settings and relatively cost effective. The trick is to work with a company with good quality cladding options.

"There are lots of design options and possibilities in terms of glazing variations, joinery and so on, and also oak frame options, including vaulted ceilings or porches, log stores and verandas," continues Merry. "The benefits are many – the buildings are beautiful and add real value to the host house, as well as complementing the garden. They last a long time and are lovely to work from (and impressive for visitors too) but they are also super sustainable and easy to build.

"Prices start at around £15,000 for a simple frame and panel encapsulation (for a local builder to complete, perhaps), and around £30,000 for a completed building," adds Merry. "For larger designs, which typically combine other uses such as a gym, garaging or extra bedrooms, we would suggest a budget of £50k upwards."

Pros:

• Beautiful additions to houses and gardens
• Add lots of value
• Multiple uses
• Characterful interiors
• Simple frames can be more affordable

Cons:

• At the higher end of the price scale
• Foundations needed
• Building regs approval required

5. SIPs structures

Structural insulated panels – or SIPs – are increasingly being used for garden offices, both modular and fully-bespoke. They are made of a double layer of oriented strand board (OSB3) with a solid insulation core, and offer fantastic thermal properties and speedy build times.

Beth Boulton, marketing director at Eurocell, explains how a modular SIPs garden office is constructed. "SIPs are rigid insulated panels that form the walls, roof and floor of the structure, maximising thermal efficiency. The exterior is typically finished in composite resin cladding, which lasts significantly longer than traditional timber alternatives – up to three times longer according to research. It also requires far less upkeep over that lifespan."

"What really decides whether a garden office works in winter is the build-up of the walls, floor and roof," explains Peter Barr. "With SIPs you're starting from a shell that's already strong and well-insulated, rather than bolting performance onto a frame afterwards."

There are basic SIPs flat pack kits available, designed for DIY installation, which start from around £5,000, or companies specialising in bespoke builds using this system.

Pros:

• Very thermally efficient
• Quick to construct
• Bespoke and flat-pack available

Cons:

• Very airtight so ventilation needs to be addressed to avoid condensation issues
• Can be trickier to assemble for DIYers than timber

6. Steel frame bespoke packages

Steel-framed garden rooms are an increasingly popular option – and for good reason.

Gabrielle Allen explains their benefits. "Because we work with steel frame construction, we have greater flexibility than traditional systems. No two offices we build are ever the same. Clients can customise everything to do with their home office ideas, from the overall size and glazing layout to door positioning, desk locations and even where individual plug sockets and printer points are placed. Every building is completely custom made.

"What surprises many clients is that full customisation does not necessarily mean significantly higher costs," continues Gabrielle. "Our steel-frame garden rooms typically start from around £20,000 depending on size and specification."

Pros:

• Fast installation
• Brilliant structural strength
• Design flexibility thanks to strength-to-weight ratio
• Great for modern offices

Cons:

• More expensive than flat-pack timber and modular offices
• Less thermally efficient than timber so good, breathable insulation required
• If fabricated off-site, access needs to be addressed

FAQs

Which type of garden office adds the most value to a house?

In the majority of cases, a house with a garden office will be really appealing to potential buyers, meaning it is a great way to add value to a home.

"The offices that add the most value are the ones that work as an actual room," explains Peter Barr. "Power, heating, decent glazing, a finish that doesn't look like a basic outbuilding. A buyer can picture using it for whatever they want, which is the whole point."

"The key is the quality of construction, not price tier per se," adds Beth Boulton. "A well-specified self-build kit with proper insulation, double glazing and a durable exterior finish will add more value than a cheaper installed garden room, with poor thermal performance and cladding that deteriorates within a decade. What valuers and prospective buyers look for is whether a garden room functions as a credible additional room, not what it costs.

"Some estimates suggest a properly installed, durable garden room could increase property price by 5–15%, with the uplift most pronounced in urban and commuter-belt areas where internal square footage comes at a premium," adds Beth.

Many people considering building a new room in their garden ask 'can you use a garden room as a bedroom?' While in many cases the answer will be yes, there are some important factors to take into consideration before ploughing ahead. It's the same if you're planning a garden room with a bathroom, so make sure, like me, you do your research before you sign on the dotted line.

It can be hard to keep up with changing kitchen trends – from high gloss cabinetry in some pretty 'brave' colours, to elegant and refined bare wooden schemes, the world of kitchen design is constantly changing and evolving.

That said, not everyone designing a kitchen wants to follow trends – there is a lot to be said for opting for a timeless look – and this is part of the beauty of Shaker kitchens. Looking just as fresh and beautiful as when they were first designed, this is a style well worth considering if you want your kitchen to stand the test of time.

That said, this style hasn't missed out on some modern updates entirely. Step forward the 'slim Shaker' kitchen – a more modern take on the classic. We asked the experts what it's all about.

What are slim Shaker kitchens?

There has been much talk about slim Shaker kitchens in the design world of late, so getting to grips with what the term means is really useful for anyone researching kitchen ideas right now.

Al Bruce, founder of Olive & Barr, outlines what defines the style. "The skinny Shaker is a refined, contemporary twist on the much-loved Shaker kitchen. Featuring a slim 40mm frame on the cabinet with a 20mm frame on the Shaker doors and concealed hinges, the design brings a fresh sense of lightness and sophistication to any space."

Alex Main, director of Main, explains what these little updates to a classic design could offer homeowners. "This subtle change in style offers a more refined look, while still being enduringly popular and showing beautiful craftsmanship."

How do slim Shaker units differ from traditional designs?

While slim Shaker kitchens were inspired by the classic Shaker design, a style that first appeared in the mid-18th century, there are some key differences between these two types of kitchen units to be aware of.

Sam Harris, senior design consultant at Ashford Kitchens & Interiors explains what sets them apart. "The main difference is how the proportions change the aesthetic of the door. With a classic Shaker, which has a thicker frame, it creates a more handcrafted appearance, while a slimmer frame is more understated. This more refined look is often preferred in contemporary settings thanks to their sleeker look."

"Rather than one replacing the other, slim and standard Shaker styles simply offer different interpretations of the same design heritage," picks up Tom Howley, creative design director at the eponymous bespoke kitchen company.

"Slim Shaker is ideal for those seeking a transitional aesthetic that blends traditional detailing with contemporary simplicity, while standard Shaker continues to be the benchmark for enduring, classic kitchen design."

Is slim or classic Shaker better?

Both these Shaker kitchen styles have a huge amount to offer – classic good-looks, easy to pair with a range of other materials, and simple to update or refresh with cabinet hardware. What this means is that it can be difficult to decide which is the best option.

Luckily, Alex Main has some advice on which works best where. "Slim Shaker doors are a great choice for those who would like to add character and depth to their kitchen, without it being overly traditional. They work beautifully in modern spaces, where finer profiles and sleek silhouettes are often abundant.

"Slim Shaker units also complement bold architecture and an array of colour palettes thanks to their versatility," he continues. "Additionally, they are a good choice for compact kitchens as the slim frame helps cabinetry feel more pared-back and less dominant as part of the overall scheme."

"Slim Shaker units are well-suited to modern kitchens, while still offering the warmth of a traditional style," adds Sam Harris. "With a cleaner silhouette, they work beautifully as either painted or wood-front doors, paired with natural stone worktops. Slim Shaker doors also work well in small kitchens as they appear less visually busy and can help the kitchen feel more spacious and open.

"Standard Shaker kitchens, on the other hand, are particularly well suited to period homes as their deeper frames complement traditional architectural features," he suggests.

Tom Howley also explains that slim Shaker units are a good choice where people are aiming for a more homely contemporary kitchen. "They're particularly popular in open-plan spaces and new-build properties, where homeowners want warmth and character without the heaviness of a traditional country kitchen."

Try this hardware on your slim or classic Shaker doors

Are slim Shaker kitchens more expensive than classic?

The cost of a new kitchen is not insignificant, and when organising your budget you need to take into account a really broad range of factors, ranging from who will fit it right down to smaller details such as tiles or splashbacks. If you are keen to keep a lid on costs you will no doubt be interested to find out the price difference between a slim and classic Shaker kitchen.

According to Sam Harris, there is little in it. "What affects the cost is the materials the units are made from, the paint finish you choose and the manufacturing method. Slim Shaker units can sometimes be more expensive as they feature finer detailing, and potentially more precise manufacturing."

“There are a few variables when it comes to cost, so slim Shaker units are not necessarily more expensive," adds Alex Main. "From the construction method to the material, finish and detailing, there are a few design elements that can influence the price."

FAQs

What is the best way to use slim Shaker units in a modern kitchen?

Slim Shaker units are perfect for creating a contemporary yet timeless scheme, but if you want to ensure your kitchen cabinet design looks fresh and modern, there are several steps you can take to dress your slim Shaker kitchen up.

Firstly, rather than the chunky knobs or cup handles that suit classic Shaker kitchens so well, consider more modern cabinet hardware, such as sleek bar pulls.

The kitchen cabinet colours you pick will have an enormous effect on the finished look too – on-trend choices include earthy neutrals, such as taupe, soft pinks and bolder shades such as burgundy.

Even if you already have a good idea of what you want your new kitchen to look like, it is still well worth keeping an eye on the latest kitchen trends – even if you just weave one or two into your space, it could really help elevate the whole design. And, be sure to check out the advice in kitchen colours you should avoid according to the experts. Updating your cabinets can be costly if you come to regret the colour you choose.

These days, working from home seems to have become the norm rather than the exception. For this reason, home offices have becoming something of a must-have – not just a room for carrying out the odd bit of paperwork and filing stuff away, but the space where the majority of the week is spent.

Whether your home office design currently involves using a corner of a spare bedroom as your makeshift office, or you have the luxury of a dedicated room in which to house your working space, getting this space spot on is key not only to your productiveness, but also to your overall wellbeing. This should be somewhere you look forward to heading.

I am in the early stages of planning a garden office and am determined that this will be the perfect working space – so I asked the experts for the top home office design mistakes to be aware of.

1. Underestimating your storage needs

To be a productive space, your home office needs to be organised – mounds of paperwork or equipment cluttering up your desk area is something you want to avoid at all costs.

Sophie Chapman, associate and interior designer at The Vawdrey House, explains that one of the most common mistakes she sees within home office design is a lack of storage. "Without adequate storage, paperwork, technology and everyday items can quickly take over a room, making it feel cluttered and distracting. Bespoke joinery or integrated shelving can help keep everything organised while making better use of available space."

Eloise Pfeiffer, interior designer at Pfeiffer Design, agrees that home office storage ideas should be a priority. "When designing a home office, storage should be thoughtfully considered within the overall aesthetic, rather than seen as an ‘add-on.’

"Built-in storage cabinets are a great option as they maximise your available space, provide plenty of storage and ensure the room remains clutter-free, creating a sense of calm. This could be floor-to-ceiling cupboards if you have tall ceilings, or a combination of cupboards and open shelving.

"Open shelves always provide an opportunity to add personal touches. It’s about creating an organised space but with clean lines so the room feels calm and curated, rather than chaotic."

2. Prioritising practicality over personality

Whether we like it or not, for many of us, the week is dominated by work responsibilities meaning a huge proportion of time gets spent in the home office. For this reason, it needs to be somewhere you actually enjoy being in.

Simon Tcherniak, senior designer at Neville Johnson, is keen to highlight that practicality need not mean sacrificing aesthetics. "Home office design ideas should balance style with functionality, creating a space that suits your working needs while also feeling inviting. We often see home offices that sacrifice one for the other, either prioritising functionality at the expense of personality, or eschewing style and creating a home office that, whilst practical, feels uninspiring.

"To design a well-balanced space, incorporate open shelving with closed storage to display decorative items and books that reflect your personality, while still allowing ample storage for essential items or papers you would prefer to keep hidden away," adds Simon.

3. Leaving your lighting design until last

Lighting is hugely important in any room of the house, but in a space that you need to focus and carry out tasks, it needs really precise planning.

"Don’t leave home office lighting as an afterthought," advises Simon Tcherniak. "Layer desk lamps, ceiling lights, and lighting built into your shelving to allow you to change the atmosphere throughout the day. Your office can then function as a space to focus throughout the day, or become a restful environment for hobbies or reading in the evening."

Ally Dowsing-Reynolds, co-founder and interior expert at Dowsing & Reynolds, has a great tip for lighting a north-facing or gloomy home office. "If your office space doesn’t get much natural light, a quick fix is to choose a lightbulb with a neutral temperature. This will mimic the look of natural light and brighten the room in a less stark way than a cooler temperature lighting option.”

4. Positioning the desk in the wrong place

Your home office layout needs to take into account not just the size of the room and the type of work you will be doing there, but also its orientation and how much natural light it receives. A lack of natural light could mean your home office makes you feel ill, especially when you are spending so much time in there.

"A common oversight is failing to consider natural light," says Sophie Chapman. "Positioning a desk without thinking about glare, views or daylight can make a space uncomfortable to work in for long periods of time. Wherever possible, we recommend locating workstations close to a window to maximise natural light and create a stronger connection to the outdoors."

"Natural light is essential for both your productivity and your wellbeing, especially when you’re working from home," points out Helen O'Connor, product and interior trends manager at 247 Blinds.

"Some people want all of the daylight to get them in the workday flow, whereas others prefer a softer, diffused look. There’s also the issue of unwanted glare, which can cause unnecessary eye strain, headaches, and screen fatigue, and is much more common at home, as we spend more concentrated time on our screens or in unnatural lighting. Consider 'day and night blinds'. They diffuse the harsh sunlight and remove glare, creating a more energising, but natural feel."

5. Designing a space that feels disconnected from the house

When creating your home office you obviously want it to be somewhere free of distractions and unwanted noise. Not everyone has the space for a dedicated office, while others may be after shared home office ideas, and in this case you need to think about how you can incorporate it into your existing layout.

Alex Main, director at Main, explains the secret behind integrating a home office into your layout. "The challenge for many homeowners is finding enough space for a desk, while still being able to separate it from home life when not in use. As many people work from their living spaces, this can cause home and work life to combine – but you can create distinct zones between the two with clever design solutions.

"To establish boundaries but still ensure your home-work environment is part of the overall design scheme, a broken-plan layout is ideal – and a room divider is a great way to do this," continues Alex. "A custom timber wall, for example, perseveres the light and feeling of space within a larger living area, without closing any of it off. The result is a designated work zone that feels separate, yet still feels connected to the rest of the home."

6. Creating a space that feels cold or impersonal

Whether you are working with a home office garage conversion, or an existing space, this is your office so make it a reflection of your personality as well as the work you'll be doing there.

"Your surroundings can have a significant impact on your mood, concentration and productivity," picks up Debbie Leigh, design manager at ILIV. "Many home offices are designed with practicality in mind but can end up feeling stark or disconnected from the rest of the home. Introducing colour, pattern and texture through soft furnishings such as curtains, blinds, cushions or upholstered seating can instantly make the space feel more homely and comfortable.

"Another often-overlooked element is acoustics. Hard surfaces can create a space that feels echoey and distracting, particularly during video calls," adds Debbie. "Fabrics naturally help to soften a room, improving sound quality."

Shop home office comforts

7. Overcrowding the space

While your home office needs to be capable of fulfilling all your professional requirements, make sure you don't end up trying to fit too much in. This is particularly important when it comes to home offices on landings or in smaller spaces.

According to Kate Palmer, creative director at The Painted Furniture Company, this is a common error. "It's easy to fall into the trap of thinking more furniture will make the room more functional. In reality, overcrowding a home office with large desks, filing cabinets and storage units can make the space feel cramped and distracting, particularly in smaller rooms.

"Instead, it's worth taking the time to consider exactly what you need and choosing well-designed pieces that offer practical storage without overwhelming the space," continues Kate. "Making use of vertical space is another great way to increase storage without sacrificing valuable floor space."

8. Getting the colour scheme all wrong

The colours you surround yourself with can have an enormous effect on your mood and productivity levels, so design your home office with this in mind.

"An at-home office may be one of the smaller rooms in your home, picks up Ally Dowsing-Reynolds. "White is the most popular choice for making a small room look bigger and a clean white shade can reflect light, making the space feel brighter and more open.

"However, I’d actually recommend green for an at-home office," continues Ally. "Not only will it reduce screen glare, compared to white walls, but green is a naturally soothing colour (hence why green bedroom ideas are so popular). Green decor and greenery around our desks, in the form of real or faux plants, can really help us to feel calm and focused. If you want to stay away from neutral walls, it’s believed that light greens and blues are the most welcoming colours, especially for people with sensory issues. Use paints with a sheen, such as a satin or gloss finish. This will reflect even more light around the room and add to the feeling of spaciousness."

Jonathan Clark, creative director at Shelved, also has some advice on how to get this element right. "Softer, neutral tones can reduce visual distraction, while pops of colour through artwork or shelving accessories can spark creativity. Materials matter too, adding natural elements such as wood, plants, or woven textures can make the space feel warmer and more inviting,

Shop green home office accessories

9. Failing to think through your flooring

The type of flooring you fit in your home office needs proper consideration for this to be your perfect work-from-home space – yet all too often this is an element that gets overlooked.

"A smooth, durable engineered wood floor works particularly well in a home office," suggests Adam Robertson, managing director at Urbane Living. "It provides comfort underfoot during long periods at a desk while also being easy to maintain. Wood flooring naturally lends a more refined and professional feel to the space, and introducing a generous area rug can help define the working zone, absorb sound and add warmth and texture to the room."

Jodie Hatton, design manager at Brintons, highlights the importance of the right colour flooring too. "Soft, muted tones underfoot can establish a sense of tranquillity, while richer, grounding colours add depth and sophistication without becoming distracting. Choosing the right palette alongside tactile flooring helps create an office that feels inviting and balanced, making it easier to stay engaged throughout the working day."

10. Not including enough electrical sockets

And, finally, don't forget that you will need somewhere to plug in all your electrical office equipment – you really don't want extension leads trailing all over the place.

"Plug sockets are an essential element of an office but, despite their necessity, many people want them hidden out of view," picks up Ali Dowsing. "The best way to do this is by strategically placing them in areas where you will have things plugged in permanently. For example, if you keep a monitor and laptop on your desk at all times, opt for a socket behind them, which means they can be hidden behind the appliances.

"If it’s not possible to hide your plug socket from view, opt for one that matches your colour scheme or decor theme to create a seamless, uninterrupted look," continues Ali. "The key is not to overlook these small details. We once thought that light switches and sockets had to be confined to either black, white or metallic shades, but there’s no reason they can’t have a makeover."

FAQs

What is the best way to organise home office shelves?

You really need to make the most of your home office storage. Open shelving is a great idea, not only due to the extra space it gives you to place all your essentials, but also when it comes to adding a few decorative flourishes, including incorporating some shelf lighting ideas.

"Zone your shelves by dedicating one section for work tools, another for decorative touches, and even a small area for personal items, creating subtle boundaries between work and home life," advises Jonathan Clark.

"You can also design a workflow into your storage, using trays or shelving sections to separate 'to do,' 'in-progress' and 'complete' tasks, giving you a visual sense of progress through the day."

Fancy the idea of a home office filled with natural light and with the very best views out over your garden? In that case, a conservatory home office is well worth considering – and there are lots of ways to ensure it doesn't overheat too.

You'd think by now I'd know all the tricks and tips behind keeping an appliance running smoothly. After all, I've spent more than 20 years writing about microwaves and mixers, dryers and dishwashers, visiting the factories, interviewing the kitchen design experts and putting the latest models through their paces. Surely there couldn't be much left to surprise me?

Well, it turns out there was. A recent chat with my good friend and appliance engineer Damien Rolls, AKA TikTok’s Appliance Hero, quickly revealed I'd been making a few mistakes myself. From using the wrong dishwasher detergent to loading my washing machine incorrectly, I'd been unintentionally giving my kitchen appliances a much harder time than they deserved.

Damian might just have saved me thousands in repairs and replacements with his incredible advice – so I’m passing on his words of wisdom, so you can do the same.

1. I’ve stopped using solid dishwasher tablets

I found this piece of advice a little mind-blowing, and it’s what prompted me to quiz Damien on everything else I might be doing wrong with my carefully chosen kitchen appliances. As a regular user of solid dishwasher tablets, I’d never considered that they might not be the best option for modern machines.

So why do those hard, chalky tablets get the thumbs down from our expert? "Well, years ago, dishwashers were much more powerful," Damien tells me. "They had stronger heaters that could break down hard detergent tablets properly. However modern machines, especially those built to meet energy-efficiency regulations, use lower-powered heating systems and heat pumps, so those tablets don't always dissolve as completely."

"The problem is that the residue can build up inside the machine, especially if you've got hard water, dirty filters, or you're constantly running quick-wash cycles. The tablet doesn't get enough time or heat to fully break down, so it leaves deposits that can clog spray arms, pumps, and heating components over time."

And according to Damien, it's not just the tablet, it's how people use them. "If you're using hard tablets on short cycles, you're asking the dishwasher to do a job it wasn't really designed for," he explains. "Use a detergent that's suited to modern machines and the programme you're running, otherwise you're likely shortening the life of the dishwasher."

For Damien, that means hybrid powder/liquid or fully liquid pods to keep your freestanding or integrated dishwasher running at its best. He isn’t tied to any particular brand, but he recommends Finish Quantum, Fairy Platinum, or if you are on a budget, Aldi and Lidl's offerings. Here our our top picks:

Three of the best liquid dishwasher pods

2. I never run my microwave for more than four minutes at a time

This was another game-changer for me, though Damien reassured me that most people make the same mistake where microwaves are concerned. "Everybody does it – they stick something in the microwave, whack it up to the highest power setting and think it will cook quicker," he explains. "But that maximum power is really designed for heating liquids for a short period of time, like warming a cup of tea or some milk for a minute or two."

In Damien’s view, around 600 watts is a much better setting for most foods. "If you're reheating something like beans or leftovers, do it in shorter bursts. Heat it for a couple of minutes, give it a good stir, then carry on," he tells me. "Microwaves don't always heat food evenly, so stirring helps get rid of those hot and cold spots."

The same goes for foods that take longer, like jacket potatoes. Rather than putting them in for 10 minutes straight, Damien recommends cooking them in stages. "After four minutes, let the steam escape, then cook for another four minutes, and finish with the last couple of minutes if needed," he says. "That gives the microwave a chance to cool down and lets all that moisture out."

But why is this such an issue? "People don't realise that heat and steam can shorten a microwave's life," says Damien. "They can damage the magnetron (which generates the microwaves) or the power module on inverter models. Cooking in shorter bursts, using a sensible power setting, and letting the steam escape in between all help your microwave last longer."

“It’s also important to ensure you’re using microwave-safe containers and crockery," adds Gwil Snook, laundry and dishwasher expert at AO.com. "Use a cover to retain moisture and avoid mess and carefully give dishes a stir or turn halfway where possible. In general, shorter intervals with a quick check in between will give you much more consistent results while helping to preserve the appliance in the long run.”

3. I never overload (or underload) my washing machine

Damien has plenty of tips on how to make your washing machine last longer, but his biggest bugbear is something simple – over- or under-loading. And I'm as guilty of this as anyone.

"A lot of people think cramming in more laundry saves time, but it usually does the opposite," he says. "Think of your washing machine like a cement mixer. If you overfill a cement mixer, the contents spill out of the front. A washing machine has a door to stop that happening, so instead the load gets forced against the drum and struggles to move properly. That's when you get the banging and vibration during the spin cycle."

Under-loading can cause problems, too. "If there's only one heavy item, such as a bath mat, or too few items in the drum, the machine can struggle to balance the load. When it can't find its balance, it will stop, reposition the drum, and try again. Every stop-start adds time to the cycle. In some cases, if the machine still can't balance the load after several attempts, it will abandon the spin altogether and leave the laundry soaking wet."

Damien explains that the best approach is to fill the drum to roughly the top of the door hinge. "Doing five properly loaded washes is often quicker than doing four overloaded ones, because the machine can spin successfully the first time."

"Keeping the load balanced reduces cycle times, prevents unnecessary banging, and puts less strain on the shock absorbers, springs, bearings and other moving parts. In the long run, that means a more reliable machine and a longer lifespan."

"Similarly, with a tumble dryer aim to keep the tub around three-quarters full so air can circulate properly and group similar fabrics together to help everything dry evenly," advises Gwil Snook. "It’s also worth giving clothes a quick shake before they go in to reduce any tangling and creases. Small steps like these speed up drying times and help protect your clothes and keep energy use down."

4. I now always do a double drum clean

I was already aware that limescale is one of the biggest killers of washing machines. Over time, it coats the heating element and other components, making the machine work harder and increasing the risk of costly repairs. That's why Damien says regularly running a cleaning programme isn't just about getting rid of unpleasant smells from your kitchen or utility room – it's one of the best ways to prolong the life of your washing machine.

He recommends using the machine's Drum Clean programme (or a 90°C cotton cycle if it doesn't have one) every four to six weeks in hard or medium water areas, or every two to three months if you live in a soft water area. But Damien has one extra tip that most people don't know about, including me. Always run the cleaning cycle twice.

"The first cycle is there to do the prep work," he explains. "Run an empty Drum Clean programme – or a 90°C cotton wash – with no clothes, detergent or cleaner. What you're doing here is heating up and softening the limescale and grime inside the machine, making it much easier to remove."

Once that cycle has finished, run the same programme again, this time pouring a bottle of washing machine cleaner directly into the drum. Damien recommends Bosch’s dedicated washing machine cleaner, particularly if you live in a hard water area. "The first wash softens everything up, then the cleaner can really break it down and wash it away," he says.

Gwil at AO.com is in total agreement. "For a great washing machine detox, I always recommend running it on an empty cycle without detergent, on the hottest cycle possible. This will help break down washing machine mould or bacteria, especially if you run your machine on cooler wash settings," Gwil says. "Don’t forget to pull the detergent drawer out and clean it with a toothbrush and hot, soapy water to scrub away any detergent or gunk build up."

If your machine already smells musty, don't be surprised if one double clean isn't enough. "If it still smells afterwards, it means you haven't broken all the dirt down yet," says Damien. "Just repeat the process – one empty hot cycle followed by one with cleaner – until the smell has gone." Once you've got it back to its best, sticking to the routine every few weeks will help keep limescale at bay and your washing machine running efficiently for longer."

Top tip: Also remember to clean out your washing machine filter regularly, to prevent big repair bills down the line. "A small collection of hair and fluff can be easy to remove, but if it's given the chance to collect into a big ball, it could be costly," says Damien.

5. I use the appropriate dishwasher cycle (and always add salt)

When we buy a new integrated or freestanding kitchen appliance, most of us don’t spend the next couple of days studying the manual cover to cover. If I’m honest, it never even makes it out of the box. But as Damien points out, skipping the basics can mean you’re unintentionally mistreating your machine.

Let’s start with the programmes. “That quick 30-minute cycle isn't designed for your Sunday roast dishes,” he says. “It's there for lightly soiled items, like a few dessert plates or coffee cups when you need them cleaned in a hurry. For your everyday wash, you should be using the normal, auto or 45°C to 65°C programme."

Damien also warns against automatically selecting the hottest programme every time. "People think the hotter the wash, the better, but if you're constantly using the intensive 70°C or ‘chef’ cycle, you're putting unnecessary strain on the heat pump. It's like driving your car flat out everywhere you go – it'll wear out much sooner than it should. Those intensive cycles are there for the occasional really dirty load, not everyday use."

While you're at it, don't ignore the dishwasher salt indicator either. "The salt softens the water, which helps protect the machine from limescale," he explains. "And always keep the rinse aid topped up as well. Think of it like the wax you get when you wash your car. It helps the water run off properly, giving you cleaner, drier dishes."

Finally, don't forget the filter. "Give it a quick clean every week," says Damien. "You wouldn't leave the strainer in your kitchen sink collecting food for months, so don't do it with your dishwasher either. And while you don't need to rinse every plate until it's spotless, scrape off anything that's going to cause problems. Dried rice, porridge (basically edible cement) or anything with lots of liquid should be removed first. The dishwasher is designed to clean your dishes, not wash yesterday's soup around the inside of the machine."

6. I don't overpack my fridge-freezer

"When you load your fridge or freezer, you need to leave a gap over every shelf to allow the air to circulate properly and regulate the temperature," says Damien. “Ramming it full is fine on a rare occasion like Christmas, but day to day, it just makes the appliance work harder than it needs to."

He adds that most people don’t realise how much overloading affects efficiency. "If things are hanging over shelves or blocking the door seals, you think your fridge-freezer is shut but it’s not quite, and you end up losing cold air without even knowing it. Again, everything starts overworking, and the appliance won't last as long."

Freezer and fridge temperatures matter, too. "For example, if your ice cream is rock solid and you need a hammer and chisel to get it out, your freezer is too cold," he says. "Most are set around -18°C, but you can comfortably bring that up to -16°C or -15°C and still keep everything frozen, just without turning it into a geological excavation."

Not having the right temperature settings will increase how much electricity your fridge and freezer uses, impacting your energy bills.

Now you know how to look after them better, discover which appliances use the most electricity, and the best appliance options for a small kitchen.

Struggling with box blight in your hedges or borders? Or maybe you're looking for precautionary measures to prevent it having seen it break out in neighbouring gardens. It's a common gardeners' woe, but luckily there are a few ways to keep your plot free of this fungal disease.

Many people learn how to grow boxwood as part of their garden design, and for good reason. The evergreen shrub is perfect for low hedging that can distinguish different zones without impeding views through the space. It's perfect for topiary, too, because it's dense with small glossy leaves and can be clipped into a whole host of shapes. It'll thrive in sun or shade as well.

Box blight, however, spoils the timeless look of these shrubs by creating unsightly dead patches. But, there are ways to reduce the risk of this disease taking over. And if yours are already infected, there are things you can do to tackle the spread, too.

How to identify box blight

First things first – you'll need to know how to spot box blight if you have it in your garden. The earlier you catch it, the less damage it can do.

A 'dead patch' is the classic look of box blight, explains Graham Rice, gardening expert and published author. "Branches die back and bare patches appear, creating ugly, dead areas in your hedge or topiary. It attacks small topiary and dwarf hedges more than larger specimen plants or tall hedges.

"Box blight can spread quickly, especially in wet weather," he warns, "and the first sign is leaves turning brown and dropping off. Check the stems, too, as black streaks often appear on younger ones," says Graham.

How to prevent box blight

However you're using box in your garden, be it as plants for garden screening or to hone your topiary skills, then it's well worth knowing how to reduce the risk of box blight.

1. Trim your box shrubs at the right time, in the right way

Monty Don revealed some top tips on caring for box hedges and topiary on his website, which will help prevent blight.

Box needs clipping from time to time to keep it in shape. When you do so, check the weather forecast, says Monty – you'll need a few days of dry weather to do this task. The cut leaves and stems are more susceptible to the box blight fungus when the wounds are fresh, he explains. But, dry weather stops the spores of the fungus from being active, and leaves time for the wounds to scar over so they are less vulnerable to the disease. The start of summer is the time to give your box a trim, he adds.

Don't forget, however, if you are using box for hedges, you'll also need to check the best time to cut hedges, as there are rules and regulations in place to protect wildlife and birds in your garden.

It's also very important to ensure your garden shears or hedge trimmers are really sharp and clean. In fact, it's a good idea to clean your tools between pruning box in different areas of the garden – this helps avoid the risk of accidentally spreading any undetected blight. If you're using borrowed tools that have been used in another garden entirely, this step is imperative. And, once you've trimmed your box, remember to clean up the clippings thoroughly (laying a tarpaulin down first will make this easier).

As an extra safety measure, you may wish to apply a preventative fungicide before and after pruning, especially if you have had to deal with box blight in your garden before. You will usually need to apply it a good few days before you get trimming, and then wait a few days before applying again – check the product's instructions.

Shop these tools for keeping your box plants in good condition

2. Provide plenty of ventilation where possible

Box blight thrives in shady, humid conditions and spreads quickly. So, ensure there is good airflow around your plants – this will help them to dry out quickly after rain. If your box makes up part of your cottage garden ideas, this means keeping an eye on nearby perennials, to make sure they don't start crowding your shrubs.

When it comes to watering plants, a drip irrigation system is best rather than using an 'overhead' approach as this will prevent the leaves from getting wet.

The RHS recommends adding a soft mulch beneath your box as well. This will prevent rain from splashing up onto the leaves and potentially spreading box blight spores. Refresh the mulch occasionally, to keep it disease-free.

3. Quarantine new plants

Box blight can enter your garden via new plants. Because of this, the RHS advises isolating any commercially sourced plants for at least four weeks before planting them, so you can be sure they are disease-free.

As they explain, some nurseries may use fungicides that suppress, but do not kill, the fungus. Quarantining the plants will give you enough time for you to check whether box blight becomes apparent.

Don't forget, you can also take cuttings from box and grow new plants. If you take them from healthy, blight-free plants that are already in your garden, there will be much less risk than bringing in a new plant from elsewhere.

Box blight treatment in 3 simple steps

Already spotted blight? You need these tips on box blight treatment.

1. Cut out infected areas

Box blight needs removing as soon as it's spotted, regardless of the time of year, as long as conditions are dry.

You have a few options. If it's just an isolated area that's affected, you can simply cut this bit out, cleaning your tools well before and after. In more severe cases, you can cut back the shrubs by half, advises Graham Rice. In the worst cases, you can cut the plants right back to ground level, he says. "Box blight does not infect the roots and new shoots will appear."

Alternatively, if you don't want the hassle of trying to save your box, or your attempts at cutting out infected areas seem to be in vain, you can simply dig it up for disposal. Just remember that a new box shouldn't be planted in the same place for a good while, as according to the RHS, spores can remain viable in the surroundings for at least six years.

Whichever approach you go for, Graham adds that tools and footwear should be cleaned afterward, to prevent spreading spores around your garden.

2. Apply a fungicide

As well as cutting back your infected box plants, it's a good idea to apply a fungicide. This can be done both before and after.

Spraying cut-back plants with a product such as Provanto Fungus Fighter Plus from Amazon, which should help stop the spread of the disease.

Fertilising plants can really help them bounce back, and box is no exception. Use a sulfate of potash monthly from mid-spring until early autumn which you sprinkle over the root area and water in.

3. Keep an eye out for further infections

As this fungal disease can spread so quickly, it's important to keep an eye on your plants even after box blight treatment. Unfortunately, it often reoccurs in places it was before, so keep vigilant and be prepared to re-treat where necessary.

What are some good alternatives to box?

If you're looking for an alternative to box for your garden, you might be interested in the trial that RHS Garden Wisley carried out.

It resulted in some top recommendations, including the common yew 'Repandens', Pittosporum 'Collaig Silver', Lonicera nitida 'Maigrun' (which has the benefit of leaves that look very similar to those of box), and Berberis darwinii 'Compacta'.

Other shrubs that make good swaps include Euonymus fortunei, Ilex crenata, and Pittosporum 'Golf Ball'. Graham Rice advises that, "most succeed better as medium to tall hedges than clipped regularly to keep them dwarf."

Alternatively, if quick coverage is your goal, check out the best plants for fast-growing hedges.

Shop alternatives to box

Of course, planting a hedge isn't the only way to create a garden boundary. Take a look at how to decide if a hedge or fence is right for you, and if you do end up choosing a hedge, make sure you understand how high you can grow your hedge when you have neighbours.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Choosing the right board for a DIY project is typically a toss-up between OSB and plywood. Both have a lot to offer, are readily available and offer strength, versatility, and value.

While there is crossover in that both are suitable for some home renovation or DIY projects, there is typically a choice to be made between the two.

OSB and plywood have distinct characteristics, so it’s important that you choose the right one. Make the wrong choice, and you could be revisiting and fixing a lot sooner than you should be. No one wants that, and this guide will ensure you make the right choice.

How do OSB and plywood differ?

OSB and plywood are popular options for DIY projects and do share similarities, but the main difference is in how they area made. Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb, explains. “OSB (Oriented Strand Board) is an engineered wood panel that is made from compressed layers of wood strands bonded with adhesives.”

"Plywood on the other hand is a flat sheet of wood veneers that have been bonded together," he continues, "with the grain of each layer rotated up to 90° relative to the previous one.”

The difference in their make-up and construction is the main reason why you could choose one over the other for your DIY projects, as we'll come on to explain.

How to choose between OSB and plywood

Martin Dooley, a carpentry specialist and the founder of MD Carpentry Workshop, offers a quick summary of how to choose which board you need. "If the board is going to be hidden and you need a strong, budget-friendly sheet, OSB is often the sensible choice.

"However, if the board will be visible, painted, stained or turned into furniture or shelving, plywood is usually worth the extra money because it's easier to finish and looks better," he advises.

“Start by asking whether the board will be seen and what sort of wear it's going to get, and the right choice usually becomes fairly obvious," he adds.

Shop tools and boards for your next DIY project

Pros and cons of OSB vs plywood

Understanding the strengths and drawbacks of each type of board can help you figure out which is more suitable for your intended use. Here we break down the pros and cons of OSB vs plywood using some key characteristics:

1. Strength

“The structure of the wood strands in OSB gives it high strength and a good load-bearing capability along the length of a panel," notes Mark Irving, although plywood is equally as strong. "The pattern creates nearly equal strength in all directions, as the crossing veneers in plywood make it very rigid and capable of spanning gaps without sagging," he notes.

That said, while OSB has high strength, it can struggle with mis-handling. “The unprotected edges of OSB can be easily damaged," explains Mark, especially during transportation or installation.

2. Resistance to water

“Modern adhesives have made OSB highly resistant to delamination or deterioration when exposed to moisture for short amounts of time," says Mark Irving. "But, although it can be water resistant, it is not waterproof. Ideally, OSB should still be kept dry," he notes.

Martin Dooley adds, “if the edges are left exposed to a lot of moisture for long periods of time, they can swell.” This affects the board integrity.

Compared with OSB, plywood is less susceptible to moisture, but for higher-moisture areas, marine plywood is better. Plywood can also be prone to delamination, especially when exposed to excessive amounts of moisture; which means it can begin to separate.

3. Appearance

Martin Dooley says of OSB, “the downside is that it's not the prettiest board in the world, as the surface is rougher. It is less suitable where appearance matters,” he adds.

Whereas on the other hand, the smooth finish of plywood is a big plus. Higher grades have fewer natural defects, and there are also different wood finishes to choose from.

4. Weight

Knowing the weight of each item also matters as it might make a difference on where you want to use it and be carrying the boards.

OSB is typically heavier than standard plywood, making it more difficult to transport and handle. As such, plywood can be more suitable if you need to move several boards upstairs to a loft conversion or bedroom for example.

5. Sustainability

In the sustainability stakes, OSB is usually considered the more eco-friendly of the two, as well as usingsmaller, faster-growing trees for its timber, Mark Irving notes how, “OSB efficiently uses raw materials, produces a low amount of waste and can potentially incorporate recycled content.”

Plywood on the other hand uses timber that relies on trees that take longer to mature than OSB.

Costs and sizes for OSB and plywood

Like for like on size and thickness, OSB is typically cheaper than plywood, as Mark Irving confirms. “OSB tends to be cheaper than plywood, and can cost between 15% and 30% less for the same sheet size and thickness.

As an example, this 2440mm x 1220mm x 12mm Hardwood Plywood from B&Q is currently £27. This comparable OSB3 Board from B&Q is currently £22. A difference of around 20%, which can make a big difference on larger projects.

A common size for both OSB and plywood is 2440mm x 1220mm, though both are available in smaller sizes. In relation to the thickness, Mark says, “OSB is available in sizes ranging from 9mm to 40mm, with thicker sizes usually made for heavy-duty uses and special applications. Plywood is usually available in thicknesses of 3mm to 25mm, with thicker panels being better for structural applications."

Beyond size and thickness, OSB and plywood are available in different grades. OSB is rated from 1 - 4, while plywood is graded from Class 1 - 3 for the performance of standard plywood. There is also marine plywood, which is bonded to stricter standards and is more resistant to moisture.

OSB3 is usually a popular choice. Mark describes it as, “load-bearing OSB for use in humid conditions." Effectively, this means most DIY projects. Plywood is also graded on appearance. AB plywood is the highest grade in terms of appearance, with CC grade being the lowest.

When buying OSB or plywood, check the grade and rating to ensure it meets the needs of your project. As a general rule, what you buy in hardware stores is fine for general DIY projects. However, if you need something specialist, make sure to check before purchasing.

Where to use OSB

OSB is a popular choice for many DIY projects where appearance is not critical. This makes it a good choice for the following:

• Subflooring – OSB is the better choice for subflooring when constructing timber frames for example. It's cheaper and more flexible, and it can be covered with more aesthetically pleasing flooring.
• Wall and roof sheathing – Both OSB and plywood are acceptable, but Mark Irving recommends OSB. “OSB tends to perform better, provided that you use a moisture-resistant grade and avoid direct exposure to water.” For example, if tiling on wood, i.e, OSB, you need to add a backer board like this HardieBacker Backerboard from B&Q.
• Shed floor and roof – Martin Dooley says, “for sheds, I'd happily use OSB. It's strong, practical and extremely cost-effective, particularly for the roof and floor because nobody will see it.” It is commonly used in cheaper sheds.

If you are putting together a new shed using OSB, I recommend treating the outside-facing surfaces of it before you start building. A sealer like this Siramico Coatings Liquid Rubber Roof Coating from Amazon will help protect against moisture and prolong your shed's lifespan. Don't forget to seal the edges too.

Where to use plywood

Plywood is a popular choice for many DIY projects where appearance is important, and can be used as an alternative to OSB in some cases. This makes it ideal for the following:

• Furniture and shelving – Plywood's smooth appearance makes it an ideal choice for furniture and shelving. Mark Irving says, “it can be practical and cost-effective when building furniture, and can be used to make cabinet carcasses in kitchens and bedrooms.”
• Walls and floors – It can be used for walls on timber frames and exterior walls, as long as the right type of plywood is used. For subflooring, it can be an alternative to OSB. Ceilings are also a choice, offering a natural look or a painted finish.
• Bathrooms and kitchens – You can use plywood in high-moisture areas if it is treated/sealed and will be covered, for example with tiles. Alternatively, you can use marine-grade plywood. However, marine plywood is more expensive than standard plywood.

If you are using plywood for your DIY projects, you’ll need to know how to treat it to achieve the best finish. Our guides on painting plywood and waterproofing plywood will help prolong its life. Alternatively, you can use it as a plasterboard alternative for an interior finish.

One of my good friends has the most stunning roof lantern in her kitchen extension – yet, she freely admits that, on a warm summer's day, she regrets ever having it installed. It makes the entire space uncomfortably hot to spend time in – and that's before any cooking begins.

With a kitchen remodel on the horizon, I love the idea of fitting a roof lantern into my new space as a way of bringing in more light, and creating a striking focal point – but I am really worried that doing so is just going to make the space unusable on a hot day.

Before ruling out the idea altogether, I decided to speak to some experts to get their opinion on the matter – and I was pleasantly surprised by what they had to say.

Do roof lanterns always cause overheating?

Andrew Madge, director at Vacuum Glazing UK, explains that, when designed and installed correctly, overheating from rooflights need not be an issue. "The aim should be a room that feels bright, comfortable and usable throughout the year. A good roof lantern should bring in the sky, not the full force of a heatwave.

"The glass needs proper thought because there is a big difference between a room filled with natural light and one that overheats every time the sun comes out," he continues. "You want daylight without discomfort, not a beautiful new kitchen extension that feels like a greenhouse with a dining table in the middle of July."

Edward Stobart, technical sales manager at IDSystems, agrees that overheating should not be something that just gets accepted as part of fitting a roof lantern. The key, he says, lies in getting the design right from the start. "Incorporating a roof lantern without creating overheating issues requires careful design from the outset."

Good news then, so what are the secrets to successful roof lantern installation?

Start by thinking about G-values

While I understand the importance of looking at U-values when it comes to thermal performance, what I hadn't realised was that, in order to get a roof lantern that performs the way I want it to, I need to brush up on my G-values.

"Even though U-values are the most widely shared performance indicator for windows, when you are looking to keep your home cool, you need to be looking for G-values instead," explains Andrew Madge.

"A G-value tells you how much heat from the sun passes through the glass. The lower the number, the less solar heat enters the room. That is what helps stop a roof lantern from turning a bright space into an overheated one.

"That said, the answer is not simply to make the glass darker," points out Andrew. "People choose roof lanterns because they want natural light, so the skill is reducing unwanted heat while keeping the bright, airy feel."

Vacuum glazing is a wise choice

There have been so many glazing innovations in recent years that it can be hard to keep up with what to use in each type of application.

According to Andrew Madge, choosing rooflight units with vacuum glazing is a great idea. "Vacuum glazing can be a very good option for roof lanterns because it offers strong insulation in a very slim unit. Instead of filling the gap between the panes with gas, like many double or triple glazed units, vacuum glazing removes the air from a tiny cavity between the glass panes," he explains.

"Microscopic support pillars hold the panes apart, while the vacuum helps slow heat transfer. It works on a similar principle to a vacuum flask. That matters for roof lanterns because gas-filled units can behave differently when installed on a slope or horizontally," continues Andrew.

"Warm gas rises and cooler gas falls, which creates movement inside the cavity. In angled glazing, that movement can reduce the insulating benefit of the gas. Vacuum glazing doesn't have that problem because there is no gas moving around inside the cavity. There is nothing to rise, fall or circulate," he says.

"That means it can offer consistent performance whether the glass is installed vertically, horizontally or on an angle. Our glazing, for example, has centre pane U-values of 0.34 W/m²K – the lowest that we are aware of with any glass. The lower it is, the better it is at keeping heat inside, meaning your room will also stay cosy in the cold seasons," he notes.

Solar control glass can make a huge difference

Both experts I spoke to agreed that solar control glass, when used in a roof lantern, can make a huge difference and here's why.

"Opting for glazing with a solar control coating is an absolute must because it reduces the solar gain from direct sunlight," explains Edward Stobart. "The microscopic coating works by reflecting and absorbing the infrared heat while still allowing light to pass through."

"For larger, south-facing or exposed roof lanterns, I would usually look at solar control glass," agrees Andrew Madge. "This uses a more targeted Low-E coating to reduce solar heat gain while keeping useful daylight. With our solar control options, the G-value can be reduced to around 0.17 to 0.33, depending on the glazing set-up.

"That means far less heat entering from above during hotter periods," he explains. "It can also block up to 99% of UV rays, which helps protect flooring, furniture, artwork and fabrics from fading. That is especially useful in rooms with a lot of direct sunlight."

Tailor your roof lantern to the room it is being fitted in

As with all types of windows, the room that your roof lantern is being fitted in needs to lead the specification – in short, what works for one space could be all wrong for another.

"The best specification depends on the room," says Andrew Madge. "A small, north-facing roof lantern may benefit from maximising light and insulation. A large roof lantern over a south-facing kitchen or open-plan kitchen space will usually need stronger solar control."

"The proportions of light transmittance can be customised to meet the exact requirements of your home," adds Edward Stobart. "Roof lanterns installed in larger sizes or on south-facing elevations with no shade from trees may be better suited to glass with a lower transmittance, while areas with lower sun-exposure will likely benefit from glass that maximises the amount of light let in."

Fit a roof lantern with built-in ventilation

While opening windows is not always the best way to keep a house cool in summer, there are instances where having the ability to open up your roof lantern to allow a cool breeze in can be a good idea.

"When it comes to preventing overheating, it is important to consider whether a roof lantern with an opening vent may be a good idea," says Edward Stobart. "The opening vents allow warm air from inside the home to escape, as well as aiding natural ventilation.

"The opening vents are normally controlled electronically and can even be programmed to automatically open when the room below gets too warm – with a built-in rain sensor that closes again should the weather change," he explains.

Andrew Madge is keen to point out that shading – both inside and out – can help too. "External shading can reduce heat before it reaches the glass. Blinds can help with glare and comfort, but they should not be used to rescue the wrong glass choice. If the blinds need to stay shut all summer, the roof lantern is not doing its job properly."

FAQs

Should roof lanterns have Low-E glass?

When shopping around for roof lanterns or rooflights you may also hear the term 'Low-E' glass – something you could benefit from in the fight against overheating.

"Low-E stands for Low-Emissivity," explains Andrew Madge. "It is a microscopic metallic coating built directly into the glass, designed to control heat movement without making the glass look heavy or dark.

"Our standard Low-E coating gives 76% visible light transmittance," continues Andrew. "In plain English, it still lets lots of daylight through, so you keep the main benefit of the roof lantern. It also has a G-value of 0.58, which can work well for smaller, north-facing or shaded roof lanterns where overheating is less likely."

There are many different types of ceiling glazing and incorporating it into your home's design can be a great way to pull natural light in where standard windows won't work. Even small areas of ceiling glazing can have a transformative effect on previously gloomy spaces. Or, if you're considering a greater expanse of glass, take a look at these glass roof extension ideas for more inspiration.

As one of the most stressful life events people have to face, buying a property is always going to take the cortisol levels up a notch or two, meaning that it can be tempting to avoid anything that stands to complicate things further than necessary, leaseholds included. However, it might not be possible to avoid.

"It’s estimated that there are nearly 5 million leasehold dwellings in England, according to the government," reveals Jack Malnick, managing director of Sell House Fast. "This means that leaseholds are responsible for between 15% and 20% of properties in the UK housing market."

Let our guide take some of the stress out of buying a house or flat with a leasehold – the experts we spoke to have all the advice you need to navigate the process smoothly.

What is a leasehold?

First things first, what exactly is a leasehold and, more importantly, is it something to be worried about? This can be one of those confusing property terms that catches people out.

Mark Poole, property investing expert and founder of the online property publication, SmarterPropertyInvestment.com explains. "A leasehold property (almost always a flat, but you can still find some leasehold houses) means you do not own the building itself – for example the block of flats of which yours is one of – or the land upon which it is built. What you are buying is the right to live in the property for the remainder of the lease.

"At the end of the lease, if the leaseholder makes no effort to extend it, then the leasehold will revert to the freeholder (the person or business that owns the building itself and land upon which it sits)," adds Mark.

What kind of properties have leaseholds?

When buying a house, it is useful to know which types of property are likely to come with a leasehold so you can be sure you know what to look out for.

"Leasehold is most commonly associated with flats, because there is usually a shared building, roof, communal areas and services that need to be managed collectively," explains Paula Higgins, chief executive of HomeOwners Alliance.

"Houses can also be leasehold, although the sale of new-build leasehold houses has largely been banned," continues Paula. "You can still buy a leasehold house though, particularly where developers sold houses on this basis in the past. Shared ownership homes are usually leasehold too."

What is a good amount of time left on a leasehold?

While buying a leasehold property is not uncommon, you do need to ensure that there is a good length of time left on the lease before you buy.

"I would suggest at least 100 years remaining," says Mark Poole. "The key flexion point is 80 years. Once only 80 years are remaining, the cost to extend the lease incurs 'marriage value'. Marriage value is the perceived profit that is created on extending the lease and this must be split 50/50 between the freeholder and the leaseholder. Above 80 years remaining and the marriage value is considered to be zero. Properties with leases remaining of much less than 80 years also become harder to mortgage and, once you’re below about 60 years, the number of lenders will be very thin."

"The longer there is left, the better," says Paula Higgins. "A lease with 999 years, or several hundred years, is obviously preferable. But in any case, buyers should still check the ground rent, service charges, permission fees and restrictions in the lease."

"Leases of 99-125 years mean that you are unlikely to face mortgage complications, and you can avoid the monumental costs associated with extending it," points out Jack Malnick. "Lease extensions can cost up to £28,000 for a lease under 80 years, and this is before you even consider solicitor and additional fees.”

What should buyers do if there is not long left on the lease?

If you have found your dream property but discovered it has a short leasehold, what should you do? Does it mean you should find something else?

"Proceed very carefully and get specialist leasehold advice before committing," advises Paula Higgins. "A short lease is not always a reason to walk away, but it should affect the price you are willing to pay."

"There are a number of options here, depending on the willingness of the seller," picks up Mark Poole. "You could negotiate a discount equivalent to the cost of extending the lease, which would fall on you as the new owner once you complete the sale. You should get a professional valuation of how much this is likely to cost. In the past, you had to have owned the leasehold property for two years before you could extend the lease, but the recent Leasehold and Freehold Reform Act abolished this restriction, so you could apply for an extension upon completion of the purchase.

"Alternatively, you could negotiate that the seller extends the lease as part of the sale and make your offer conditional on this occurring, so that by the time you complete you have a freshly extended lease," adds Mark.

"You can find a specialist leasehold solicitor through HomeOwners Alliance for a free, no-obligation chat and quote," says Paula Higgins.

Can you have a leasehold removed?

Understandably, many people would prefer to own a property outright, but is removing a leasehold an option? If you want to renovate or alter the property in question, this may well be something you are keen to find out.

"You cannot simply 'remove' a leasehold, but in some cases you can buy the freehold. This is called enfranchisement," explains Paula Higgins. "For flats, leaseholders may have a joint right with other flat owners in the building to buy the freehold collectively, known as 'share of freehold' or 'collective enfranchisement'. Flat owners cannot buy the freehold of their individual flat alone; they usually need 50% of their neighbours willing to pay to do the same.

"Another option is to extend the lease," continues Paula. "Under current rules, qualifying flat owners can usually extend by 90 years. The Leasehold and Freehold Reform Act 2024 is intended to increase standard lease extensions to 990 years, but many parts of the reform are still not fully implemented, so buyers and owners should not assume the new rules already apply."

Is it hard to get a mortgage on a leasehold property?

Unless you are buying a house with cash, obtaining a mortgage on any kind of property can always be a bit of a minefield, and when it comes to those with leaseholds things have the potential to get even trickier. Bear in mind that you will typically need a lease of at least 85 years in order to get a mortgage.

"In all cases, you should ensure you can get financing on the property," says Mark Poole. "If you require a mortgage to be able to purchase it, you should obtain a professional opinion on the cost of the lease extension. Whilst online calculators can help, they tend to become less accurate the shorter the remaining lease is."

There are factors other than lease length that mortgage providers will want to check too, according to Paula Higgins. "Leasehold is not just about the number of years left. Buyers also need to understand the total package of costs. That means ground rent, service charges, buildings insurance, major works costs, reserve funds, permission fees and any restrictions on alterations, subletting, pets or running a business from home."

Is buying a leasehold house a good idea?

While leasehold houses (as opposed to flats) are rare these days, they do still crop up.

"Generally, buying a leasehold house is not ideal," says Paula Higgins. "With a leasehold house you will have to pay ground rent, seek permission for alterations, comply with lease restrictions and potentially pay to extend the lease or buy the freehold later. None of these charges or permissions apply to a freehold house.

"For a house, the key question is: why is it leasehold at all? Buyers should be especially wary of onerous ground rent clauses, permission fees, estate charges and restrictions on renovations or extensions," continues Paula. "That said, there are some situations where leasehold houses are more common, such as shared ownership homes, where the housing association is usually the freeholder, or houses on country estates. If the house is otherwise right, has a very long lease and low or no ground rent, it may still be worth considering – but only with proper legal advice and a price that reflects the tenure."

"In essence, it isn’t that different to buying a leasehold flat," adds Mark Poole. "However, since they are not that common, you may find your pool of potential buyers is less when you decide to move on. Conversely, if a leasehold house doesn’t put you off, you may find it cheaper to purchase than comparable freehold houses."

FAQs

What happens when a freeholder sells the property?

If you decide to buy a leasehold property, you have to accept that there may come a time that the freeholder will decide to sell it.

"If an existing freeholder wishes to sell, they must give the leaseholders the first chance to buy it," says Mark Poole. "This is known as the 'Right of First Refusal'. If you then acquire a share of the freehold, then you also assume all the obligations of being a freeholder (such as meeting fire regulations, insuring the property and so on)."

Will you have to pay ground rent on a leasehold property?

Ground rent and service charges are amongst the important details that can get overlooked in the excitement of buying a new home – yet it is incredibly important that you check these out. This information should be contained within the documents required to sell a house so make sure you obtain them.

"Leaseholders have to pay an annual fixed ground rent to the freeholder and this varies by location," says Mark Poole. "There is legislation in progress that seeks to cap this at a maximum of £250 per annum, with it reverting to a 'peppercorn' rent (effectively zero) after 40 years, although this is not expected to be in force until 2028. This has happened in response to the problematic issue of some ground rents doubling over a set interval, such as 5 or 10 years, making it difficult to mortgage or sell a house, trapping existing leaseholders."

Before buying any kind of property, leasehold or otherwise, make sure that you check any alterations were carried out to building regulations standards – the seller should be able to provide you with certificates to prove this. If the leasehold property is older, it may also be listed, so make sure understand listed building grades if you are viewing it with an eye to making some home improvements when you move in.

Just lately, the carpet in our bedrooms has really been bugging me. Thanks to two teenagers who love nothing more than a good preen which seemingly involves spraying themselves (and clearly missing) with numerous lotions and potions, splattering make-up all over the place and constantly knocking over drinks, they are starting to look really grim. Then there is the dog who, in his old age, seems to have decided that he can have his run of the house, and who I often find curled up in the master bedroom leaving behind a mound of fur.

Increasingly, I have been thinking that other types of flooring – namely wooden floors – would be so much easier to keep clean but, practically speaking, is it a good idea?

The carpet is soft underfoot and protects downstairs from the noise of footsteps and the loud phone conversions between the teens and their friends. Even with it, you can clearly hear noises from overhead when sitting downstairs, so I reached out to the experts for their advice.

Is wooden flooring upstairs a good idea?

We have engineered wood flooring in a number of rooms on the ground floor of our house and I love how easy it is to keep clean, as well as the fact that it doesn't absorb pet odours. I really like the idea of using it for our bedroom flooring but am worried that it will mean that downstairs becomes really noisy when anyone is walking around up there.

Ian Tomlinson, MD at Chaunceys Timber Flooring, has some reassuring words for me. "Wood flooring can work exceptionally well upstairs, but the key is thinking about acoustics from the outset, rather than treating it as an afterthought. One of the biggest misconceptions is that choosing a hard floor automatically means you'll have to live with increased noise transfer throughout the home, when in reality the right installation approach can make a significant difference."

Adam Robertson, MD at Urbane Living, agrees that, when installed properly, wooden flooring can be a great option for upstairs spaces. "Wood flooring can work very successfully on upper floors, provided the installation is approached correctly from the outset. The biggest factor in managing noise is not necessarily the flooring itself, but what sits beneath it."

How do you soundproof wooden flooring properly?

One of my main concerns is that taking up the carpet and fitting engineered wooden flooring will mean that the noise of anyone clattering about upstairs is going to be louder than it is already. Is this something I'll just have to accept?

According to Ian Tomlinson, if I want peace and quiet downstairs, I should be concentrating on the underlay. "The most important factor in reducing sound transfer is the underlay. A high density acoustic underlay helps isolate the flooring from the subfloor, limiting the vibration that carries noise into the rooms below."

Adam Robertson points out that the way the flooring is laid matters too when it comes to soundproofing a ceiling. "For the highest quality installation, I would always recommend fully bonding the wood floor to the subfloor rather than opting for a floating installation. This makes a real difference to both the feel underfoot and the acoustic performance."

What type of underlay is best for wooden flooring upstairs?

Just as when choosing the best underlay for carpets, the underlay you use beneath wooden flooring matters more than ever when installing it on the upper storeys of a house.

"There are two main options worth considering," picks up Adam Robertson. "The first is a cork and rubber underlay, though it's worth knowing that this requires double the amount of adhesive because you will need to glue the underlay to the subfloor.

"The second option is a premium acoustic panel, which typically has a hard top surface, often MDF, that allows you to bond the wood floor directly to it," he explains. "Both are effective, but the choice will often come down to the specifics of the project and the subfloor you're working with."

"Standard foam underlays may seem like a cost effective option, but they rarely provide the level of acoustic performance needed upstairs," adds Ian Tomlinson. "Look for high quality rubber, compressed fibre or cork based acoustic underlays that have been specifically designed for upper floor installations and independently tested for impact sound reduction."

Does wooden flooring require a different sub-base to carpet?

Our carpet upstairs is laid over the old timber floorboards, which have a void beneath them. While fitting underlay sounds pretty straightforward, I'm wondering whether there are other steps I should take too.

"When homeowners are looking to reduce noise travelling from children's bedrooms or busy family spaces above – which is a very common concern – the overall floor construction becomes just as important as the flooring itself," explains Adam Robertson.

"A floor build up that incorporates mineral wool insulation between the joists, plywood over the joists and a fully bonded wood floor on top will provide excellent sound insulation for most households," continues Adam.

"Add a few well-placed rugs and soft furnishings, and there is no reason why you can't enjoy the character and practicality of wood flooring upstairs, without compromising on comfort or acoustics."

Shop bedroom rugs

FAQs

Is solid or engineered wood flooring better upstairs?

There are two main types of wood flooring: solid and engineered.

Solid wood flooring, as the name suggests, is made up purely of solid wood, sawn into planks. Engineered, on the other hand, is made up of a top layer of solid wood veneer – the thickness of which varies – bonded to several layers of high-density fibreboard (HDF) or plywood.

"We generally recommend engineered wood flooring for upper storeys as it offers excellent stability and is less prone to movement over time, which can help minimise the risk of creaks developing," says Ian Tomlinson. "Installation methods also play an important role, with glued installations typically delivering better acoustic performance than mechanical fixing methods."

Whatever type of flooring you decide to lay in the upper storeys of your home, make sure you are aware of the most common flooring mistakes people make so that you can avoid doing the same. And, if you already have squeaky floors upstairs, make sure you rectify the issue before fitting new flooring.

If you've ever arrived home to find your driveway blocked you'll relate to the level of frustration this can cause. But is your front hardstanding, garden or the spot on the street outside your home actually 'yours'?

Although it can feel like someone has infringed on your rights when blocking or using what you believe is your space, there are many common misconceptions about what does and doesn't fall under the jurisdiction of the law.

To help clear up the misconceptions regarding driveways and parking, we spoke with Joe Pepper, partner at Bridge McFarland solicitors to find out what is and isn't legal, and when the problem actually lies with the homeowner, rather than the person parking.

Driveway design vs access

"If you are upgrading the front of your home, adding a hardstanding, or thinking about creating off-street parking, it is easy to assume the law is simple: build a driveway, park on it, and the space on the street in front of it becomes yours. In reality, the legal position is more complicated," explains Joe Pepper.

It's less about what you design and build and more about the access, he continues. "For people carrying out driveway projects, the key issue is not just what you can build on your own land, but how you lawfully get to it from the road.

"This is where pavements, public highways and dropped kerbs become crucial," he says. "Understanding the rules early can help you avoid costly mistakes, neighbour disputes and council enforcement. The Highway Code and the Highways Act 1980 are central to this area.

"One of the most common assumptions we see is people thinking that once you have room for a car on your front garden, you automatically have a legal right to drive across the public pavement and keep the area outside clear. But, that is not usually the case," he warns.

Why? Because the road outside your home and any pavement that forms part of it is actually public highway. You only own the land from your legal boundary to your home.

"This means you also do not own the parking space on the street directly outside your property, even if you regularly use it," explains Joe. "Other drivers can usually park there unless restrictions apply, such as permits, yellow lines or controlled parking rules.

"This matters because a new driveway is only part of the picture," he reiterates. "The real legal protection usually comes from having an authorised dropped kerb, sometimes also called a vehicle crossover."

Why dropped kerbs matter so much

Most homeowners are familiar with the term dropped kerb, but as Joe explains, you really do need to understand why they protect you, but can equally put you at risk if you haven't followed the rules.

As a reminder, a dropped kerb is the lowered section of pavement that allows vehicles to pass between the road and private land. In England and Wales, if you want to drive over the pavement to reach a driveway, you usually need council approval for a dropped kerb.

"The government’s 'Apply for a dropped kerb' service directs homeowners to their local authority, and official guidance explains that a dropped kerb allows vehicles to cross the pavement from the road to a driveway," shares Joe.

But this works two ways.

"A proper vehicle crossover strengthens your legal position because parking across a dropped kerb can attract council enforcement, whereas parking on the street outside a house without one is often treated as ordinary on-street parking," Joe expands.

But, the flip side of that means you could equally be breaking the rules if you haven't got your driveway access right.

"It is illegal to drive over a pavement onto your property without a dropped kerb, because the crossing must be designed to protect the pavement and services below it," warns Joe.

"Even if you have laid a gravel driveway, block paving or a hardstanding on your own land, that does not automatically make it lawful to drive across the pavement to reach it," he continues.

"Local authority guidance consistently states that it is against the law to drive over the public footway without an authorised vehicle crossing, because the pavement and buried services are not designed for that use unless adapted properly.

"So if you are redesigning your front garden to create parking, the legal order is important: first check whether a dropped kerb is possible, then design the parking area around that access," advises Joe.

In a nutshell, without a dropped kerb other drivers are well within their rights to park on the street in front of your driveway, and you have no legal rights to make them move.

Parking rights and when you can complain

So, if your home does have a legal dropped kerb that's been approved by the local authority and someone parks over it, what are your rights?

"The Highway Code says drivers should not park in front of a property entrance or where the kerb has been lowered for access, but the practical force of that guidance is much stronger when the access point is formally recognised," says Joe.

"If someone blocks an authorised dropped kerb, the local authority may be able to issue a Penalty Charge Notice. But, if there is no dropped kerb, your options are usually far more limited," he warns.

However, what all homeowners should remember Joe reinforces, "is that there is no automatic right to the stretch of road outside your property. This can come as a surprise after spending money on landscaping your front garden, paving or widening a front garden," he agrees.

What can you do if you believe someone has parked illegally?

If, however, you've followed all the correct steps, you have a legally approved dropped kerb, your driveway is perfect for everyone in your household to park off-road, and yet someone persists in blocking your entrance. What can you do?

"If you already have an authorised dropped kerb and someone parks across it, contact your local council first, as they may have enforcement powers," advises Joe. "If access is blocked in a way that creates urgency or safety concerns, the police may also become involved," he adds.

But, he also shares some words of caution.

"What you should not do is clamp, tow, block in or damage the other vehicle, as that can create liability for you instead," he reveals.

Make sure that the illegal parking is also obstructive, rather than just bad parking adds Joe. "In practice, obstruction cases are fact-specific," he explains. "A vehicle that stops someone getting safely in or out, blocks emergency access, or obstructs a recognised driveway crossover is more likely to trigger enforcement than a car simply parked near a property."

Simply because someone has parked badly, meaning you maybe have to pay a little more attention to your entrance and exit manoeuvres – perhaps because your driveway size is on the small side – might not be grounds for complaint.

"For people carrying out driveway projects, the main lesson is this: if you want reliable access to a new parking area, you should not rely on informal arrangements," says Joe.

"Get the access approved properly, and if you're considering adding another layer of prevention in the form of purpose-built solutions (such as retractable bollards), remember these are only lawful when installed within your property boundary and with proper permissions," he notes.

How to prevent problems

The key to avoiding parking problems and disputes? Get your facts right from the start, design your driveway accordingly, and don't make assumptions advises Joe.

"Before spending money on a new front-of-house parking scheme, it is worth checking a few basics," he says.

"First, find out whether your council will allow a dropped kerb at your property. Some roads, junctions, visibility lines, trees or street furniture can prevent approval. Second, make sure your planned hardstanding or driveway layout works with the likely crossover position. Third, do not assume that parking on the street outside the house will become private just because you have improved the frontage," Joe advises.

"A smart driveway project is not just about appearance, drainage and materials. It is also about lawful access. If you are planning to create off-street parking, the dropped kerb is often the most important legal step in the whole job. Get that right, and you are in a much stronger position if access is blocked," he explains "Get it wrong, and even a well-built driveway may leave you with no clear parking rights at all."

FAQs

Do the same rules apply on private roads?

While the rules are fairly uniform on adopted highways, the one place it can differ is if your home is located on a private road. If this applies to you, it might be a case of digging out all the documentation you had when buying the house.

"On private roads, the local authority may not be responsible for the surface or parking control," explains Joe. "In those cases, the legal position often depends on ownership of the road in front of your home, and the rights granted in the title deeds.

"The main issues are access rights, parking rights and maintenance obligations. A private road does not automatically mean you can alter the verge, install barriers, widen an entrance or create a new access point. If you only have a right of way over the road, that usually allows use, not unilateral alteration," he expands.

"In short, if your project involves a private road, do not assume the usual public highway rules will help," he warns. But as with your driveway plans on an adopted road, do your research first. "Check the title, any rights or estate regulations and who has authority to approve changes," says Joe.

Can I put something on the road to block people from parking in my spot?

We've all seen strategically placed wheelie bins, and even cones in the road outside homes where parking is limited, or regularly causing issues, but is this legal?

"Usually not," says Joe. "The highway is public, so placing objects on the road or pavement to reserve space can itself amount to obstruction. Bins, cones and homemade barriers may feel practical, but they can create legal problems of their own.

"If you want physical measures such as bollards or driveway gates, they should normally be installed within your own boundary and only after checking that they do not interfere with lawful access or any required approvals," he continues.

Rather than preventing parking, it could end up with you being the one who is in trouble rather than the person who has inconveniently decided that the unofficial parking space on the road outside your home suits them better.

If I pave my front garden to create a driveway does this require planning permission?

"This is another point that often catches homeowners out," says Joe. "In England, you will not usually need driveway planning permission for a new or replacement driveway at the front of a house if the surface is permeable, or if rainwater drains to a lawn or border within your property.

"The key threshold is five square metres. If you cover more than five square metres of your front garden with traditional impermeable surfacing and the water does not drain to a permeable area within your land, planning permission will normally be required." This is to reduce flood risk and surface water run-off.

"The practical takeaway is simple: if you want to avoid a planning application, think about drainage at the design stage,' says Joe. "Gravel, permeable block systems, resin-bound surfaces designed to drain through, or runoff directed into a border or soakaway can all make the difference," says Joe, but warns against making one other common mistake.

"Remember, these planning rules are separate from dropped kerb approval. You may have a driveway design that works in planning terms but still need highway consent to get a lawful access across the pavement," he explains.

In conclusion, "parking outside residential properties is an area where legal perception often differs from reality," agrees Joe. "While homeowners understandably view the space on the street outside their property as 'theirs', the law generally treats it as part of the shared public highway.

"The single most important distinction is whether a property has a properly authorised dropped kerb leading to a driveway. Without one, enforcing rights over parking is extremely limited. With one, there is at least a degree of formal protection.

"As disputes become more common with increasing car ownership, understanding these legal boundaries can help avoid unnecessary conflict – and costly mistakes," he advises.

One final point you may also need to consider when looking at your driveway plans? The proposed changes to rules regarding EV charging at home. If you were only considering one to make using an EV charger simpler, you may no longer need to.

Although you will of course need to ask yourself if that will add another problematic layer. If you don't have a dropped kerb and someone parks in your space, you may find yourself not able to charge your new electric car.

Choosing windows for a house can always feel a little daunting – not surprising given the enormous effect they have on its exterior appearance. Be honest, how many times have you driven past a house and thought: 'nice house, shame about the windows'?

It isn't just the outside of a house that can be ruined by the wrong types of windows though – inside, spaces can be left feeling gloomy, suffering from overheating or, in a huge number of cases, missing out on the views available.

All too often, homeowners will select standard-sized windows, or assume that large expanses of sliding or bifold doors are the best way to pull in light and achieve garden views. However, there are, in fact, better ways to use glazing to maximise both. Here, architects and designers reveal the techniques they use for a more considered approach.

Start by deciding what you want your view to be

Before choosing windows or deciding their position, it is so important think beyond pulling in light – you need to consider what you will be looking out at once they are in place too.

Rhys Owen, director at Pensaer, explains how he starts the process. "The question of glazing begins with the spatial character of a room and its relationship to the landscape beyond – it’s not about the size of an opening, but how it shapes the experience of the space.

"Architecture has the ability to focus attention on things that might otherwise go unnoticed," continues Rhys. "A picture window looking onto a hedge, a glimpse of a tree canopy, a planted courtyard or a patch of sky can all become meaningful if they're carefully framed and positioned within the room."

Rhys goes on to explain how the practice recently adopted this approach on one of their projects (below). "At Ashbourne, the client had a banana tree that she'd looked after for many years, so we aligned the view from her desk towards it. It wasn't about creating a grand vista; it was about strengthening a connection to something that already mattered to her."

Don't feel that all windows have to open

While it is nice to be able to fling open the windows in order to bring the fresh air in, not all your glazing has to open in order for it to have a huge effect on your experience of living in your home.

Dan Todd, sales director at Klöeber , explains the benefits of using fixed glazing. "When people think about making the most of a garden view, they often go straight to full-width bifold or sliding doors. Those can work beautifully, but they are not always the most practical or interesting answer.

"Sometimes, fixed glazing can create a stronger result," continues Dan. "A fixed pane, often called a picture window, gives you more glass and less frame because it doesn't need opening sections. That means less interruption to the view, often better thermal performance and, in many cases, a more cost-effective solution.

"Fixed glazing works particularly well in kitchens, double-height spaces and landings," continues Dan. "In kitchens, it can frame the garden without sacrificing storage or worktop space. In a double-height space, it can add scale and drama without unnecessary moving parts."

Edward Stobart, technical sales manager at IDSystems, is also a fan of the picture window, but emphasises the importance of choosing the right type of glass for this use.

"For large picture windows, when it comes to specifying the glass it is important to consider two things. If your window is south-facing, then you may wish to opt for glass with a solar control coating – this reduces the amount of heat from direct sunlight that the window lets in. If your window isn’t south-facing, then a low-iron glass is worth considering because its extra transparency will provide a better view out."

Bigger isn't always better

It is easy to assume that the bigger the window, the better – particularly in the case of kitchen extensions, and side return extensions, where a strong connection to the garden is called for. However, this is not always the case.

"It's easy to focus on the size of an opening, but the more interesting question is what that opening is doing to the experience of the room," picks up Rhys Owen. "Sometimes a carefully framed glimpse can be more engaging than a fully open panoramic view because it creates focus, depth and a stronger awareness of the landscape around you."

Dan Todd agrees that it is far better to think about what in the garden you are framing, rather than how much of it you can see. "The best schemes start by asking what each piece of glazing needs to do. Some elements need to open. Some need to bring in light. Others simply need to frame a view beautifully. When you combine those elements carefully, glazing can create a much richer connection to the garden than one large opening alone."

Use high-level glazing to make the sky your view

In cases where there isn't necessarily much of a view to work with, or where natural light is limited, as is often the case with urban properties, it can be better to look upwards rather than out.

"High-level clerestory windows tend to draw the eye upwards towards the sky rather than straight out at fence lines or neighbouring properties," explains Edward Stobart. "They're also particularly effective in urban gardens where privacy is important but natural light is also required.

"Additionally, they can be perfect for framing the views up – whether that's moving clouds or changing daylight conditions – turning them into a feature in their own right," he adds.

Pick and choose your views with slot windows

It is really important to remember that you don't have to have expansive views out over the countryside, or be able to gaze out to sea in order to enjoy a view. Sometimes, just picking one feature, be that a glossy, dense hedge, your modern fence ideas, or a highly textured brick wall, is all that is needed to create interest.

This is where narrow, vertical slot windows work really well – plus they are ideal at the front of properties where light is required, but so too is privacy.

"These are an increasingly popular feature in architectural glazing," reveals Edward Stobart. "By creating a slim vertical slot window, focus can be brought to a particularly desired area of the garden – ideal for where one element of the garden is more appealing than others. A carefully designed slot can provide sufficient interest in what would otherwise be a mediocre view."

Don't be afraid to combine window styles

Unless you are dealing with a period or listed property, where the type of windows need to match its architectural roots, or have been specified by the planners, there is nothing in the rulebook to say all your windows have to match.

In fact, as Edward Stobart explains, combining different styles can add bags of charm. "For a more artistic effect, modern trends such as asymmetrical window arrangements can add character to a contemporary home."

Rhys Owen highlights how mixing and matching different types of opening often makes far more sense than feeling restricted to just one style. "One of the first things we ask is what the space should feel like, and how connected it should be with to the outside. A room with a single aspect can often feel surprisingly tunnel-like, even if the opening itself is very large. We generally therefore try to create as many aspects as possible, whether that's through a corner window, rooflights, glazing in two directions, or a more carefully positioned secondary view."

Tailor roof glazing to your home

There are so many different types of ceiling glazing and rooflights and, in the absence of a traditional view, this can be the ideal way to create one.

"Large glass roofs are not just ideal for drawing light deeper into a room, they can also be perfect for framing the views above," explains Edward Stobart.

Do consider how you can tailor your ceiling glazing to your home rather than just opting for a bank of standard rooflights. Dan Pyzer-Knapp, associate at OB Architecture Ltd, explains how this was done in the case of one of the practice's projects (above). "We used rooflights with timber fins to create dynamic shadows that change the space throughout the day. This helps bring soft natural light into otherwise shady corners of a large open plan space, and adds a point of interest through the cast shadows across the wall and floor."

Frame choice matters just as much as window style

The frames you choose can have just as much of an effect on how well a view is framed as the window itself, as Edward Stobart explains. "I recommend opting for slim, minimalist frames that allow for large panes of uninterrupted glass, maximising the visibility of the outside. Aluminium windows tend to be ideal because they are able to combine big panes of glass with minimal visible frames.

“Beyond that, square-edged window profiles in a colour that contrasts with the internal decor are ideal because they provide a clear border to the view out, focusing your eyes on the view through the window, not at the window itself."

The depth of the window reveal can also play a part here, almost turning the view into a work of art. "Deep reveals around picture windows create cosy nooks that frame the view beautifully," says Edward. "Window seats have become hugely popular and are ideal for making the view out seem more artistic. Being closer to the glass allows you to take more of the view in because you see less of the room itself."

Don't shy away from walls of glass entirely

While people seem to be getting more creative with their window choices, looking at alternatives to the swathes of sliding and bifold doors that at one time seemed to be dominating the market, this 'glass wall' approach can still be the right one in some cases.

"Sometimes, the view is so good that the whole wall needs to be glazed," points out Dan Pyzer-Knapp, who goes on to explain that overheating needs to be considered when taking this approach. "In the beach house project (above), to avoid overheating issues, we designed an overhanging canopy that shades occupants from the strongest sun, and gives a wide panoramic view across the sea."

Edward Stobart likes to use corner windows where a more panoramic view is the order of the day. "With no visible frame, glass-to-glass corner windows can be cleverly fitted to the corners of rooms to extend the width of the view. This can draw attention to certain features within the garden and reveal areas that would otherwise be out of sight through a normal window. For example, a beautiful corner bed filled with mature plants could be on show instead of a plain wall, a stunning tree in a neighbour’s garden could be viewed instead of a dull fence or even reveal an even more interesting view from a completely different angle."

Consider orientation and shading to give a clear outlook

The direction your windows are facing needs to be taken into consideration if you want to make the most of a view, particularly with regards to issues with solar gain, glare or reflections.

"If your window is south-facing then direct sunlight may interfere with your view," explains Edward Stobart. "If you are building an extension or a new-build home then there may be the opportunity to install louvres or a brise-soleil, or design an overhang above your large picture window. This will reduce the reflections on the glass and better frame the view out."

Be sure to consider the orientation of your windows with regards to seeking out the very best view too. Rhys Owen explains how this was done on the project above. "We rotated the extension by 45 degrees rather than projecting it straight out from the rear of the house. That immediately created more aspects and more ways of looking into the garden. The footprint didn't change, but the room felt much more connected to its surroundings because your eye is constantly finding different points of reference. That's often more important than whether there is a spectacular view to begin with."

FAQs

Does a window seat always need a view?

Toying with the idea of incorporating some window seat ideas into your home? They are a brilliant way to create a cosy spot to relax but is a view a prerequisite of this feature?

According to Edward Stobart, even if the view isn't particularly striking, incorporating a window seat can help you see a vista you hadn't before noticed. "Sitting in a window seat allows you to get closer to the view rather than simply looking at it from across the room. Being closer to the glass also changes the perspective, allowing for a wider field of view."

"Creating a reading nook in a small window next to a hedge can link you into the outside landscape whilst sitting inside," adds Dan Pyzer-Knapp. "A view might not be incredible on its own, but when paired with a unique bit of design, it helps create a special and intimate space."

Alongside shape, size, position and style, don't forget to choose the right window colours for your home – they can totally transform the way it looks both inside and out. And, if you're keen to bring more light inside your home, take a look at these internal window ideas as well to help open up your interior.

With summer in full bloom, many homeowners are looking for ways to improve their gardens – whether that’s adding extra privacy with a new fence or installing a summer house for outdoor entertaining.

However, despite these projects being small, some of them will require planning permission, and failure to do so could result in legal action being taken against you with unlimited fines.

To help you avoid unwanted (and unexpected) charges, we’ve explained the most common outdoor changes that need planning permission, according to legal and gardening experts.

1. Cutting or pruning a protected tree

You might think that any tree in your own garden is fair game to trim or cut down, but according to Joe Pepper, Partner at Bridge McFarland, that is certainly not the case.

You may need consent from the local planning authority if the tree is protected by a Tree Preservation Order (TPO) or stands in a conservation area – otherwise, it could be a criminal offence under the Town and Country Planning Act 1990. This could result in an unlimited fine and the requirement for replacement planting.

"There is another point homeowners often miss: some trees were planted to satisfy a planning condition attached to the property. Removing one of those trees can trigger planning enforcement and if the council serves a notice that is then ignored, prosecution and fines may follow," Joe adds.

"That risk does not always disappear when a property changes hands. If you buy a home where protected trees have already been removed, you may still inherit obligations to replant or deal with an existing breach."

2. Installing decking too high

Want to install raised decking more than 30cm above ground level? You may need to get planning permission, warns Joe Pepper. The same will also apply where outbuildings and structures together cover more than 50% of the garden around the house.

"If the work goes ahead without it, the local authority can treat it as a breach of planning control and require the deck to be altered or removed," he says. "There may not be an immediate fine simply because the decking has been built but ignoring an enforcement notice can lead to prosecution and an unlimited fine."

"There are also strict safety standards covering features such as railings and balustrades. Openings between railings must be small enough to stop a 100mm sphere passing through, and any balustrade bordering a drop of at least 600mm must stand a minimum of 900mm high," adds Helen Godsiff, Brand Manager at Eurocell.

3. Burning garden waste irresponsibly

Burning garden waste can lead to legal action if it becomes a nuisance to neighbours or creates a health risk. With that in mind, Joe Pepper says to avoid putting damp waste, treated timber or plastic on the bonfire.

"Councils have powers under the Environmental Protection Act 1990 to investigate and serve abatement notices and breaching one is a criminal offence," he explains. "If smoke is persistent or particularly serious, a homeowner can face a fine and further penalties if the problem continues."

4. Building a garden room without permission

Garden rooms are a fantastic outdoor feature, but if they exceed the allowed height, footprint, location and proximity to boundaries, or have the wrong intended use, planning permission may be required before it is installed.

"If the structure goes beyond what is allowed for permitted development and no planning permission has been obtained, the council may require a retrospective application and if permission is not granted, the building may have to be altered or removed," explains Joe Pepper.

If the enforcement notice is ignored, Joe says you could be prosecuted and given an unlimited fine, so it's worth looking into.

Another thing to keep in mind is whether your garden room is built over a public sewer (or too close to one). If that's the case, "consent from the relevant water company may be needed; often by way of a build-over agreement." The same applies to raised decking.

5. Installing a fence too high

When it comes to designing a garden, privacy is often a top priority for homeowners, which is why some people want their fences as tall as possible. However, any fence, wall, or gate above two metres (or one metre if it's next to a highway used by vehicles) may need planning permission.

While Joe Pepper says you'll likely face planning enforcement rather than an immediate penalty, you'll still need to reduce the height or remove it which can be expensive. If you don't comply with these fence rules, you could face an unlimited fine or even prosecution.

Joe Pepper concludes, "A quick check with the local planning authority before work starts is usually far cheaper than dealing with enforcement after the event."

Found this helpful? You may also want to read our guide on when you need planning permission for decking and garden wall building regulations.

If you're in the middle of a renovation, you'll know how frustrating all the dust and dirt can be – especially when it starts being traipsed through your home while you're still living there.

But what if we told you there was a solution to stop that, and it would cost you only £20 from Amazon? Well, our content director, Laura Crombie, has shared the ultimate hack for doing just that and says it's one of the best purchases she's ever made.

To prevent the dreaded dust from spreading, she attaches plastic zip-up covers to her doorways, which act as a barrier between a room that's being renovated and one that's still being used.

The plastic covers easily attach to the frame of your door with duct tape, so there’s no need for drilling or screwing, and they can be added and removed quickly as needed. Even better, they can be reused again and again, as they can be wiped clean with a damp cloth.

While you can attach disposable plastic decorating sheets to doors you don’t frequently use, Laura recommends zip-up covers for areas you still need to pop in and out of.

While these plastic door covers will make a huge difference when it comes to keeping dust contained, there are other tricks you can combine them with to keep your space as tidy as possible:

1. Vacuum regularly: Investing in one of the best vacuum cleaners for builders’ dust is a decision you won’t come to regret. Use it regularly to avoid build-up and wipe down surfaces with a damp cloth.

2. Use an air purifier: HEPA air purifiers capture 99.97% of airborne particles, including dust, and will come in handy post-renovation as well. Our assistant editor Sarah Harley tested the Molekule Air Pro which removes toxins from the air.

3. Use dust sheets: Alongside your plastic door covers, it’s worth laying dust sheets over furniture and floors to keep everything protected.

Dust is inevitable when you’re tackling jobs such as sanding and demolition, but by putting a few preventative measures in place, you’ll help reduce the mess and chaos as much as possible.

Want more of our favourite DIY tips? See how Laura created a built-in pantry for under £350 using Amazon furniture or her £10 hack for painting furniture flawlessly.

In these times of extreme weather and extended drought, drip irrigation systems enable us to manage how we water our choice of garden plants.

Increased water restrictions are not going away and, in years to come, the liberal use of garden hosepipes and sprinklers will be frowned upon as an extravagance. So, the conscious and effective watering offered by drip irrigation systems is sure to become more widely used.

But what exactly is drip irrigation and how can you make use of it when watering plants in your garden landscaping to save water, and keep your garden alive in periods of drought? We explain all.

What are drip irrigation systems?

Drip irrigation is a watering method that has been used in commercial agriculture and horticulture for years. It gets water directly to young plants in an economic and targeted fashion, at the best time to water plants, with as little waste as possible.

Edward Cantle, an expert from Gardena explains: "Drip irrigation systems offer a great alternative to conventional watering methods, such as a garden hose.

"They work by gradually drip-feeding water directly next to the plant, which allows the water to penetrate the soil right down to the roots, saving up to 70% water consumption, compared to standard irrigation systems." He adds that this also promotes plant health, by leaving them less susceptible to disease.

How do drip irrigation systems work?

By laying a system of pipes and small drippers through planting areas in your garden, the water can be fed directly to the roots of the plants.

They take advantage of the natural capillary action in the soil and allow moisture to be absorbed by the roots as needed, with less evaporation from the surface.

Shop drip irrigation systems

Are drip irrigation systems simple to install?

Sean Lade from specialist supplier Easy Garden Irrigation describes how most systems are installed: "First, there’s a connection to a garden tap and from there you run a half-inch supply pipe that basically acts like a motorway to carry water around the garden, past all the plants you want to water. Then you spur off into micro-size pipes, ¼ inch thick, that reach to the plants themselves and then a drip emitter regulates the release of the water."

It’s usually recommended that you use one distributor per plant, which works well for garden planters and smaller areas – although you can share one emitter among a smaller grouping of plants. For larger areas, a drip line is recommended with built-in emitters along the length of the pipe.

What are the advantages of drip irrigation?

Because the water is delivered exactly where it needs to go, you use less and waste less – perfect if you're looking for water saving methods. As the experts at Water Irrigation point out, "water is delivered with pinpoint accuracy directly to the root zone of the plant. This minimises wastage and weed growth in the surrounding areas of the plant."

For example, a system with 50 drippers used twice a day for 30 minutes will save up to 70% of water compared to a sprinkler or soaker hose. And for this reason, in many areas, drip irrigation systems are permitted even in times of official drought and hosepipe bans – although you should always double-check with your local provider.

"As water application is slow and controlled by each emitter, the water has time to soak into the soil preventing surface runoff," Water Irrigation adds.

It is important to use a timer with your system. This means you can water first thing in the morning, so you'll get the most out of your watering at the coolest time of day without getting out of bed. Plus, you don’t have to remember to turn off the system. And drip irrigation systems are ideal for watering everything from patio plants to your favourite screening plants while you are away on holiday too.

What are the disadvantages of drip irrigation systems?

The key disadvantage is the time it takes to lay out the system. And, some people might not like seeing the tubes, pipes, and kit on view. But there are ways to disguise the pipes.

They are great for gardens of all sizes, but for larger plots, you might well need some professional help to make sure your watering circuit is working to maximum effectiveness.

Are drip irrigation kits easy to use?

Drip irrigation is becoming increasingly popular with home gardeners because it’s an effective way of watering the garden. The new kits on the market are much easier to install and work for containers and pots as well as larger flower beds.

We’ve come a long way from the days of ‘leaky hose’ watering pipes that effectively sweat out water unevenly across a planting area.

And if you only have a compact courtyard garden or balcony, a smaller system, such as the Gardena Balcony Irrigation Set from Amazon would be more than enough to keep your potted plants well watered.

Other great water-saving methods include rain chains and water butts. These are great ways to harvest rainwater if you prefer watering your plants with rainwater.

FAQs

Should you bury drip irrigation systems?

You definitely should not put your pipes and drip emitters under the soil – if you bury the system, you run the risk of damaging the pipes if you can’t see them.

"You can easily put a spade through the pipe," says Sean Lade from Easy Garden Irrigation. "But you can hide them with a layer of mulch or bark chippings, which will make it more efficient and help to retain moisture in the soil."

Can you make a drip irrigation system yourself?

There are many different kits available with parts that you can scale up or down according to the size of your garden, and most good suppliers offer great advice and customer service. Price-wise, drip irrigation kits at Amazon start at around £25 at the lower end of the price scale.

As with the garden sprinklers, most drip irrigation kits can be added to and expanded as required, and with good maintenance and regular checks, they have a lifespan of between 10-15 years.

Watering our plants and gardens is essential to ensure good, healthy growth, but it’s also vital to manage our watering to minimise the amount we use.

If you’re not sure about investing in a kit for your whole garden design, you could try one of the smaller-scale setups to keep your pots watered while you’re on holiday. That way, you won’t have to rely on friends and neighbours to keep your plants healthy.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Confession: I can't remember the last time I replaced my pillows. While it's definitely something I know I should do, I just haven't gotten around to it – and, to be honest, there are more exciting things I'd rather spend my money on.

But after recently discovering that dust mites (horrifyingly) exist, I decided it was finally time to do something about my pillows, especially since I have sensitive eyes. Dust mite allergies are very common and can cause symptoms like sneezing, itchy eyes, and a runny nose.

Instead of immediately forking out £50+ on a brand-new set, I decided, in the meantime, to buy these allergy-friendly pillow protectors on Amazon for under £10. They act as a barrier between you and any dust mites that might be lurking inside.

Shop anti-allergy pillows

I know pillow protectors aren't exactly revolutionary (and are probably something I should have had already), but they've given me so much peace of mind about dust mites, offering an extra layer between my pillow and my face.

There are plenty of synthetic options out there, but I'd highly recommend choosing cotton ones if you want to avoid hearing a rustling noise every time you move your head in bed (I made this mistake with satin covers previously). Plus, they won't contain any microplastics and will stay cool in the summer.

While I'm chuffed with my new little purchase, I spoke with Dr Stephanie Kayode, Allergy Physician at Allergy Care London, to find out whether pillow protectors are something experts would actually recommend.

"Allergen-proof barrier covers on mattresses, duvets and pillows will reduce dust mite exposure by preventing bedding dust mites from getting through," she confirms. "In the bedroom, it is also important to wash bedding at 60 degrees as only high temperatures kill dust mites, and reduce indoor humidity by ventilating."

As someone with raging hay fever allergies, I was also curious to find out whether pillow protectors could help alleviate my symptoms at night, but unfortunately, that doesn't seem to be the case.

"This isn't likely to be effective. Airborne pollen can land on hair, skin and clothes and transfer onto bedding. Pollen particles are so small they can get through pillowcase fabric," says Dr. Kayode.

As a hay fever sufferer, I’m unsure whether my sensitive eyes and sneezing are caused by that or dust mites, but either way, I feel a lot better now that these pillow protectors are in place.

Wondering whether dehumidifiers help with allergies? Our expert explains all in this helpful feature. We also have a fantastic guide on hayfever-friendly gardening, which includes all the tips and tricks you need to minimise your allergies.

By planting a lavender hedge you can create a defined area within a garden, add a soft border to paths and walkways and attract plenty of beneficial bees and pollinators. Low growing, this is a hedge which will not get out of hand or cause neighbourly disputes. It is easy to care for and with just a little attention, it will last for years.

Lavender is a stalwart of the classic cottage garden, but it fits all styles, from Mediterranean gravel spaces to chic urban courtyards. It has a long flowering period, from around June to September, and the fragrant foliage keeps its colour year-round, even when the plant is dormant over winter.

All you need if you want to plant a lavender hedge in your garden is a sunny spot and our simple lavender growing tips for success.

How to plant a lavender hedge

1. Fork over the soil in the area of your garden landscaping where you want to create the hedge. Space the plants about 30cm apart (or 45cm for larger species, check the plant label for height and spread). If the soil is heavy, incorporate plenty of horticultural grit before planting.
2. Dig a hole which is just a bit larger than the plant’s root ball.
3. Take the plant out of its pot and place in the soil. Fill the gap, and then firm around the base.
4. Water in thoroughly, aiming for the roots, not the foliage. After planting, keep watered regularly in dry weather for the first growing season. After that, it should look after itself. Usually, lavender does not need feeding. You could do it just occasionally using an all-purpose feed to improve the overall health of the plants, but it is not essential.

Lavender hedge planting essentials

When is the best time to plant a lavender hedge?

Although the autumn and winter months are a good time to start planning your lavender hedges and thinking about what sort of plants you want to include in your design, you need to wait until the soil has warmed up before you can plant them.

In the UK, this can be any time from mid-April until the end of July. If it is a cold spring, it's best to wait to plant until May. Lavender roots will grow much more quickly in warm soil.

What's the best lavender for a lavender hedge?

English lavender is the most robust and long-lived. This hardy perennial has tiny flowers on grey/green stems.

French lavender, which has tufty top petals that look like a butterfly’s wings, is less hardy, so unless your chosen spot for a hedge is extremely sheltered, it is best to go for an English variety.

There are more than 250 English lavenders, and these include dwarf plants, which won’t grow taller than 30cm. Lavender 'Dwarf Blue' (available from Thompson & Morgan) and ‘Miss Muffet’ are two examples.

Larger, bushier choices for bigger gardens include Lavendula Intermedia ‘Grosso’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) which tops 1m in height and spread.

Lavenders don’t just come in blue either. You can go for white, misty purple or even pink too!

Lavender varieties to plant in your hedge

Where should I plant a lavender hedge?

Good drainage is the key to success with lavender. As a Mediterranean garden plant, it will not thrive in damp or heavy, soggy soil, so a well-drained site is a must.

Choose a sunny spot and your lavender hedge should thrive in the right conditions. It's a great choice for low-maintenance gardens as once established your lavender hedge should require very little watering or care.

If you don't have the right type of soil or conditions in your garden, another option is to plant lavender in a series of garden planters to mimic the effect of a hedge. This will allow you to have more control of the soil in which your lavender is planted.

When should I prune a lavender hedge? 

English lavender should be pruned twice a year to keep the hedge bushy and compact. This will stop leggy brown stems appearing. When the flowers have faded in late summer or early autumn, trim them off with a pair of secateurs. These Spear & Jackson bypass secateurs are highly rated on Amazon.

Then cut about 2.5cm from the plant’s leaves, making sure that some green stays on. This lets light into the plant and enables new shoots to form before the lavender becomes dormant over winter.

In late February or in early March if it has been a cold month, trim the lavender plants lightly again using a pair of sharp garden shears.

Whether you want to plant a lavender hedge as a garden screening idea or simply want a natural way to zone different areas of your plot, this pretty scented plant is a classic choice.

Growing trees in pots is another good option if you're looking to break up a space and create additional privacy.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Working from home was supposed to be the dream – no long commutes, no awkward small talk. And for the most part, it is. But there's a growing body of evidence to suggest that the average home office setup could be doing us a disservice.

Those frequent headaches and that persistent crick in your neck might not be down to stress or screen time alone it seems. From the paint on your walls to the way the afternoon sun hits your monitor, your home office could be affecting your health in ways you'd never think to connect.

Here's what experts want you to know about getting your home office design right, so your health doesn't take a nosedive as a consequence.

Ergonomics – what is your body trying to tell you?

If you've been putting nagging back pain or a persistent headache down to a stressful week, it might be time to think again. The way your body feels by Friday afternoon often has less to do with your workload and more to do with your home office setup.

Is your chair giving you a bad back?

According to experts, the single biggest mistake most home workers make is choosing the wrong office chair. More often than not, we find ourselves dragging a spare chair in from the dining room, which is perfectly fine for a Sunday roast but considerably less so for eight hours of back-to-back video calls.

Elizabeth Moreno, a qualified osteopath, doesn't mince her words on the subject. "Chair quality is 30 - 40% of the solution," she explains. "Your chair should support your natural lumbar curve, so built-in lumbar support is ideal. If your chair lacks this, add a lumbar pillow or roll. Sit back into the chair so the support contacts your lower back and don't perch on the edge."

When seated, Dr Robin Clark, Medical Director of Bupa UK, adds that your hips should sit above your knees, your back fully supported by the backrest, and your shoulders relaxed with elbows at roughly 90 degrees just above the desk.

Is your screen giving you a pain in the neck?

According to Elizabeth Moreno, neck pain accounts for 41% of work-related musculoskeletal complaints in the UK, and the culprit is often closer than people realise. "Neck stiffness, eye strain and headaches can indicate that you are too close or too far from the screen," she explains. The fix is simpler than you'd expect: your monitor should sit roughly at arm's length, with the top of the screen at or just below eye level, your shoulders relaxed, wrists straight and elbows bent at roughly 90 degrees.

Hand and arm discomfort is another commonly ignored warning sign of a poorly set-up desk. Elizabeth flags tingling, tension, or tenderness in the forearms or hands as a clear signal to reassess the positioning of your keyboard and mouse.

Is sitting all day bad for you?

In short, yes. Though perhaps not for the reasons you'd expect. Dr Clark warns that the effects of prolonged sedentary behaviour tend to develop gradually and silently, which is precisely what makes them so easy to dismiss. "Sitting down for too long can slow down your metabolism, making it harder for your body to regulate blood pressure, blood sugar, and break down fat," he explains. Over time, this increases the risk of cardiovascular conditions including high blood pressure, heart disease, and stroke.

To counteract the negative effects of staying seated, Dr Clark suggests aiming to leave your chair every 30 minutes or so, even if it's just to make a coffee or swap your desk chair for a standing position. Your body, he notes, isn't designed to stay still. It will find ways to remind you.

Office lighting can have a bigger impact than you realise

Most of us put real thought into lighting our living rooms and bedrooms, but when it comes to our home offices, we tend to use whatever's already there. According to the experts, that casual approach could be costing you more than you realise.

Think carefully about natural light

Too much natural light in the wrong place can be just as problematic as too little. Simon Browne, technical manager at Luxaflex, identifies glare from direct sunlight as a major – and frequently misdiagnosed – contributor to eye strain and poor concentration. "You'll often see people subconsciously shifting position, squinting or leaning forward throughout the day without realising the cause," he says. So, that 3pm headache you've been blaming on meetings might actually be a consequence of how your desk is positioned relative to the window.

Chris Gore, founder of SPOR Group, agrees, and says it's worth thinking carefully about your home office layout before you commit to a desk position. "People set up their monitors wherever the desk fits, rather than where the light sources are – the result is either glare directly on the screen or a bright window sitting behind the display, both of which force the eye to constantly compensate, causing strain, headaches, and by mid-afternoon, a level of visual fatigue that most people just accept as normal."

Luckily, the fix is simpler than a full room reshuffle. As a rule of thumb, sit perpendicular to any window rather than facing it or putting it directly behind you. And for rooms that get a lot of sun, external shading can block up to 98% of solar heat gain before it even enters the room, while internal blinds help diffuse harsh daylight without plunging you into darkness.

Find a balance with artificial lighting

If you've ever found yourself reaching for the paracetamol by 11am and blaming it on your inbox, Abbas Kanani, superintendent pharmacist at Chemist Click, has news for you. Poor home office lighting is a more common culprit than most people realise and it rarely gets the blame. "Too much glare, flickering LED lighting, or working in dim rooms with bright screens can show up as headaches by late morning, watery or dry eyes, or a feeling that concentration drops off sharply in the afternoon," he says.

Lighting temperature plays a bigger role than most of us appreciate too. Harsh cool-white bulbs can become fatiguing over a long working day. A warmer, layered setup – ambient lighting combined with a decent task lamp – is almost always kinder on the eyes than a single overhead source.

Air quality and temperature

Most of us focus on how our workspace looks rather than what we're actually breathing in, which, according to the experts, is something of an oversight. In an office sealed off from the rest of the home, indoor air quality can deteriorate faster than you think.

Are your walls off-gassing?

It might not be the first thing that comes to mind when you're choosing a paint colour, but Jon Mee, technical advisor at Earthborn, says the contents of your tin matter as much as what's on the colour chart. VOCs – volatile organic compounds – are carbon-based chemicals emitted as gases from paint, and can contribute to both short and long-term health issues, including irritation of the eyes, nose and throat. "Opt for a natural claypaint that is virtually VOC free," he recommends, "meaning no horrible smells or headaches that can often be the case with some other paints."

Is your office getting enough fresh air?

Even if your walls are pristine, a poorly ventilated room has its own problems. Abbas Kanani flags high CO₂ levels in small home offices as one of the most underestimated factors affecting how we feel at our desks. "People describe it as feeling sluggish, sleepy despite adequate sleep, or struggling to think clearly in the same room for long periods," he says. It's a set of symptoms that's routinely mistaken for stress or burnout, when the real fix might be as simple as opening a window.

Is your home office overheating?

You won't always notice a room getting warmer throughout the day, but you'll probably notice the irritability and inexplicable mid-afternoon slump. Simon Browne warns that rooms with significant glazing are particularly vulnerable to overheating, a common and underreported problem in sun-facing home offices. The fix is often at the window: external shading tackles heat before it enters the room, while good ventilation can make a surprising difference to how clearly you think.

Factors that impact your mental health

The boundary between desk and sofa can blur in ways that feel harmless in the moment but corrosive over time – and the experts are clear that the mental health risks of a poorly designed home office are just as real as the physical ones.

Are you ever really switching off?

"Not giving yourself enough time away from your desk, or working longer into your evenings than you would if you were office-based, can put you at increased risk of stress, along with the health concerns that can come with it – including high blood pressure and cardiovascular disease," says Dr Robin Clark.

The problem is that most home workers don't recognise the pattern until it's well established. The commute that once felt like dead time turns out to have been doing important work by creating a buffer between professional and personal life that, once removed, is harder to replace than you'd think.

Is your workspace making it worse?

Chartered psychologist Claire Law has a simple explanation for why you can't stop thinking about your inbox at 9pm. A home office that bleeds into living space – such as a laptop left open on the kitchen table – keeps the brain in a low-level state of alertness that makes genuine rest surprisingly hard to come by. "Our brains are very good at forming associations," she explains. "If you're working from the same space where you eat, relax or sleep, it becomes harder for your mind to recognise when it's time to switch off."

In other words, if your bedroom doubles as your boardroom, don't be surprised if sleep doesn't come easily. So, before you get carried away turning your dining room into a home office or carving out space for an office on your landing, it's worth asking whether the convenience is worth the cognitive bleed.

The first steps to a healthier home office

The encouraging thing about most home office health problems is that they're eminently fixable, often without spending very much at all. Here's where to start:

1. Move more than you think you need to

Aim to get up every 20 to 30 minutes. Not for a full workout, but just to shift position, roll your shoulders, or walk to another room. A sit-stand desk is the simplest structural fix if you can stretch to one, but even propping a laptop on a kitchen counter for 30 minutes achieves something similar. The key is balance: sit when you need support, stand when you can, and keep changing position.

2. Audit your symptoms

Abbas Kanani's diagnostic rule of thumb is worth keeping in mind: look for complaints that are predictable, time-linked, and location-specific. Headaches that ease at weekends, back pain that disappears on holiday, afternoon fatigue that lifts the moment you leave the desk, are all patterns, not coincidences. If your symptoms improve reliably away from your workspace, your environment is almost certainly a factor.

3. Clear away any visual noise

Claire Law flags clutter and visual distraction as a significant and underappreciated drain on cognitive energy. Open shelving, unfinished projects, and sightlines into busy areas of the house all pull at attention subconsciously, even when you're convinced you've tuned them out. Tidying, zoning with a room divider or curtain, or simply closing a door can reduce that load more than you'd expect.

4. Sort out your acoustics

Chris Gore identifies poor acoustics as one of the most consistently underestimated sources of daily stress. "Constantly straining to hear colleagues on calls, or being subjected to echo-heavy rooms where your own voice bounces back at you, puts the brain into a low-level stress state for hours at a time," he says. Soft furnishings, a rug, and bookshelves all help absorb noise without requiring any additional soundproofing.

5. Add colour and greenery

The colour of your home study can actively support or undermine how you feel over the course of a working day. Jon Mee is emphatic on the subject: "The paint colours that you choose can have a dramatic effect on the mood of a room," he says. "In a home office, colours that ground us and help us feel more comfortable, whilst also offering energising qualities, are great options. Nature-inspired tones work well – warm neutrals for a more pared-back aesthetic, or deeper, earthier colours that feel organic and refined but also offer a sense of inspiration and interest."

Greenery works in much the same way – plants or even just an outdoor view can help restore cognitive function throughout the day. It's one of the cheapest upgrades you can make, and one of the most effective.

If you want to embrace a brighter, healthier approach to working from home, consider a dedicated garden office or conservatory home office. These purpose-built spaces can make separation between work and life effortless.

There was a time, not so long ago, when the world of patio doors was pretty small. French doors were the go-to for anyone looking for a way to access their patio from their home and, even then, the options were limited when compared to today's plethora of options. Bifold and sliding door technology wasn't what it is now, meaning both of these types of patio door were viewed with some suspicion.

Fast-forward a little and some significant developments in operating mechanisms, glazing and framing materials – not to mention an unquenchable thirst for 'bringing the outside in' – meant that sliding and bifold doors began to overtake French doors,

But, much like the fashion cycle, French doors are making a re-appearance with a modern makeover. Homeowners are once again appreciating the simplicity and elegance of the French door – and design experts explain why you should too.

Are French doors back in fashion?

For a while, French doors were no longer seen as a contemporary choice, so why is it changing?

"In my 17 years at Kloeber I've seen a few cyclical trends – and this is one of them," says Dan Todd, sales director at Kloeber. "For the last decade, much of the attention in the glazing industry has been focused on large sliding patio doors and bifold systems. Homeowners have been captivated by ever-larger panes of glass, slim sightlines and dramatic openings that blur the line between inside and out. Yet, recently, we've noticed something interesting – French doors are making a bit of a comeback."

Andrew Madge, managing director of Gowercroft Joinery and President of The British Woodworking Federation agrees that French doors are becoming fashionable once more. "We've seen French doors becoming more popular again, especially as the heritage side of our business has grown. Sales in our French door ranges increased by 113.4% from 2023 to 2026 and French doors have also grown from an estimated 8% of sales in 2023 to 13.6% in 2026 so far."

It seems, then, that French doors are indeed firmly back on the radar – and here's exactly why they could be the best option for you.

6 reasons why French doors might work for you

1. They are one of the more affordable options

Patio door costs can soon spiral when using sliding or bifold doors, particularly when dealing with supersized openings – thanks to their simpler operating mechanisms and installation process, however, French doors tend to be a more affordable option.

"Cost is a consideration for most clients," picks up Dan Todd. "High-quality French doors are typically more affordable than large sliding or bifold systems, allowing homeowners to invest elsewhere in their project while still achieving a premium finish."

Edward Stobart, technical sales manager at IDSystems, agrees that French doors can be a wiser option for those working on smaller scale projects, seeking to minimise costs. "French doors are particularly well suited to small extensions, renovations and heritage-style homes. They generally require less structural intervention and building works than wider glazing systems, and can therefore be a more cost-effective solution."

2. You don't need to be working with a huge opening

Not everyone has – or wants – huge openings from the inside of their home to their garden. While these can undoubtedly look stunning, particularly on a summer's day when the entire rear of a house can be opened up, sometimes all that is needed is a more modest way to access outdoors – and this is where French doors are ideal.

"They suit a wider variety of homes – not every property requires a six-metre opening or a wall of glass," points out Dan Todd. "For smaller extensions, renovations and period properties, French doors can often look more proportionate and sympathetic to the architecture. They provide a strong connection to the garden while maintaining character and balance."

"While large sliding doors and bifold doors remain hugely popular for larger apertures, French doors offer an option for smaller openings – particularly for those looking to add character or complement the architecture of an existing property," adds Edward Stobart.

3. They are a great way to add character to a house

While there is nothing to stop owners of traditional-style or period properties adding a swathe of sliding doors to their homes, in some cases, the more classic look of French doors can be a better way to enhance their character and charm.

"A large part of the growth in the popularity of French doors is coming from historic properties, listed buildings and from those buying houses in conservation areas," explains Andrew Madge. "French doors often suit these projects because they work with traditional proportions rather than trying to create the largest possible opening. On many older buildings, a huge expanse of sliding or bifold glazing can look out of place.

"There is also a wider design shift away from stripped-back minimalism," continues Andrew. "We're seeing more people making a deliberate choice to add character back into their homes. Increasingly, homeowners want to see detail, craftsmanship and materials that make a statement rather than doors that are designed to fade into the background. That trend is reflected in the British Woodworking Federation’s Championing Timber in the Home Report 2025, which found that aesthetic appeal is now the leading influence on door choice at 34%, increasing in importance since the 2023 report. As one of the most visible elements of a home’s exterior, doors are becoming a design feature in their own right, and French doors often align well with that desire for character and individuality."

4. They match the British climate perfectly

The idea of being able to open up an entire wall of the house to create a seamless link between inside and out is undeniably appealing – but, in reality, how often does the UK climate actually allow for this? French doors might not give the option of doing this when the sun does shine, but perhaps that isn't always such a bad thing.

Andrew Madge suggests that, rather than viewing French doors as replacements for bifold or sliding doors, they should be seen as something that can be used alongside them. "French doors are not trying to do the same job as bifold or sliding doors but are often more practical.

"Sliding and bifold doors are often chosen because they can open up a larger area, but that is not always what people actually need," continues Andrew. "With the UK weather, the full-opening feature is only useful some of the time and people are starting to realise that. Day-to-day, most people use one access point: to step outside, let the dog out, reach a balcony or bring some air into the room. French doors do that simply, with less complexity and often at a lower cost."

5. French door technology now matches the alternatives

There was a time when it was easy to assume that the thermal efficiency and technology, not to mention the glazing innovations, associated with French doors just couldn't match that of the more more modern alternatives – not so these days.

"Modern French doors are significantly more advanced than the chunky uPVC versions people may remember from years ago," explains Edward Stobart. "What has made the biggest difference has been the development of aluminium frame technology. Modern thermally broken aluminium profiles allow for a slender appearance and maximise the amount of glass. In addition, aluminium frames also make French doors easier to couple with fixed frame sidelight windows, or to incorporate within a much larger glazed screen such as glass curtain walling."

Timber French doors too have seen some significant improvements over the years, as Andrew Madge explains. "Older French doors had a reputation for being draughty, less secure and prone to swelling or sticking. Modern timber French doors are very different. Our French door options can achieve U-values as low as 0.82 W/m²K, with PAS 24 and Secured by Design security compliance, modern locking systems, improved airtightness and better weather performance. The materials have improved too. Timbers like Accoya improve longevity and stability, reducing the risk of warping, swelling or sticking over time. Water-based coatings have also made modern timber doors much lower maintenance than many people expect."

6. Things have moved on style-wise

It isn't just the technology involved with French doors that has been evolving and improving – there is now much more design choice too, making them ideal not just for traditional settings, but more modern homes too.

While there are some really sleek, minimalist French door designs out there now, in all kinds of powder-coated finishes, manufacturers have also wholly embraced the trend for Crittall-style doors and windows.

"Where aluminium French doors have really soared in popularity is where they are designed with horizontal bars through the glass that match the look of traditional steel doors at a fraction of the cost," reveals Edward Stobart. "These Art Deco-inspired doors combine traditional style with the latest in modern design options."

FAQs

Are French doors replacing sliding and bifold doors?

Clearly French doors are once again being seen as a brilliant option for those seeking to create access and visual connection between their interiors and the garden – but does that mean sliding and bifold doors are losing their appeal?

Dan Todd thinks not. "Rather than replacing sliding and bifold doors, French doors are finding their place alongside them. Each solution has its strengths, and the best choice depends on the property, house style, the opening size and how the space will be used."

Andrew Madge agrees with this view. "French doors aren't replacing sliding doors or bifolds – some people have both. French doors are especially useful for smaller openings, Juliet balconies, bedrooms, snugs and older parts of a property, where easy access and proportion are more important than opening up an entire wall."

"What's clear is that French doors are no longer the overlooked option," adds Dan Todd. "Thanks to modern engineering, improved performance and changing homeowner priorities, they are once again becoming a popular and highly relevant choice for contemporary home design ideas."

Sometimes, the best course of action is to use a combination of patio door styles rather than relying on just one type of system. If this idea appeals to you, make sure you take time to research bifold vs sliding doors first – understanding the pros and cons of each will help you make an informed decision, as will taking a look at bi-fold patio door costs to see which type best matches your budget.

With the rise in popularity of cold plunges, home saunas and hot tubs, it's clear that garden wellness is having quite the moment. Outdoor showers are the latest addition to the wishlist, with Google searches hitting an all-time high in 2026, and an increasing number of ambitious homeowners factoring them into their garden design plans from the outset.

The appeal is simple: outdoor showers look beautiful, come into their own during summer, and bring a touch of boutique-hotel glamour to even the drizzliest of British gardens.

But there's more involved than simply crewing a showerhead to a fence post and hoping for the best. From plumbing and drainage, to planning rules and winterising, here's everything you need to know before installing an outdoor shower.

When is it best to install one?

The idea that an outdoor shower only works somewhere hot is something of a myth, meaning you don't need to wait for a few years of good summers before you install one. John Pearce, co-director at Oltco, sees the demand for these garden features growing steadily.

"Outdoor showers are becoming increasingly popular in UK homes as more homeowners look to create spa-inspired outdoor spaces that combine practicality with design," he says. "Whether positioned alongside hot tubs, swimming pools or simply as part of a luxury garden scheme, outdoor showers can work incredibly well in the British climate when the right materials and drainage solutions are considered from the outset."

The key phrase here is from the outset. An outdoor shower that's been properly planned, with thought given to shelter, drainage, pipework, and surface materials, will perform very differently to one that's been bolted on as an afterthought.

Get those fundamentals right, and the great British weather becomes a manageable inconvenience rather than a deal-breaker.

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How to get the plumbing and water supply right

Before anything else, when installing an outdoor shower, you need to decide how you're going to use your outdoor shower, because that decision will shape everything that follows.

Lee Saunders, Head of Design at Drench, puts it simply. "For a lot of people, a simple cold-water rinse is all they need. These basic setups can often connect directly to an existing outdoor tap using a standard garden hose, making them an incredibly easy and affordable option for cooling down during the summer months."

But, for a more permanent installation with reliable hot water, the picture changes. "The plumbing becomes much more involved," Lee explains, "often requiring insulated hot and cold water pipework to be extended externally from the house."

Andy Ellis, Managing Director of Vidalux, agrees that a hot and cold balance is achievable for most UK homeowners, but the execution needs thought. "For a shower that's going to be satisfying you need a stable water pressure between 1.5 bar and 3.0 bar, but if you're going to be connecting to an outdoor tap, pressure will drop significantly the further down the garden you go."

There's also a less obvious safety risk to be aware of. "A common and dangerous mistake people often make is leaving exposed plastic water supply pipes across the garden," Andy warns. "On hot summer days the sun bakes the stagnant water inside these pipes and raises the temperature to dangerous levels. This creates the perfect breeding ground for bacteria, but can also cause scalding when the shower is turned on. Supply lines must be shielded or buried to avoid this."

On the pipework itself, Andy recommends MDPE (Medium Density Polyethylene) blue piping for underground runs. "It's tough, handles high pressure, and can handle soil shifting. You can run MDPE pipes up to 50 metres or more across a garden without major pressure loss, provided your starting mains pressure is healthy and you use a consistent pipe diameter, such as 20mm or 25mm," he says.

On the question of DIY versus professional installation, Andy is direct about where the line sits.

"Competent DIYers should be able to comfortably handle digging trenches, laying the MDPE pipe, and assembling compression joints, but tapping into the property's main internal water system, installing mandatory non-return check valves to prevent garden water backflowing into the drinking supply, or adding any electrical pumps requires a qualified professional," he says.

What about drainage?

If plumbing is the decision most homeowners think about first, drainage is the one thing they most often wish they'd thought about sooner. "In my experience, drainage is one of the most overlooked aspects of installing an outdoor shower," says Lee Saunders.

"You cannot usually rely on water simply draining freely onto your lawn or patio, especially with regular use. Repeated water exposure will eventually lead to issues with surface water, such as waterlogging and slippery surfaces, as well as potential damage to your surrounding landscaping."

The right solution depends on how the shower will be used – and, crucially, what you'll be using it for. UK building regulations state that water can only drain into the ground if it's completely pure, so if you plan to use soaps or shampoos, that water is legally classified as greywater, and cannot be allowed to run into natural watercourses.

Andy Ellis is clear on what that means in practice: it needs to be connected directly to the household foul water sewer system. For those using the shower purely for a quick rinse after a swim or sauna, a gravel soakaway is perfectly fine, but Andy advises siting it at least five metres from the main building,or any outbuildings to prevent localised flooding or structural subsidence over time.

The surface around the shower is also worth considering. John Pearce makes the case for permeable resin-bound surfacing, which allows water to drain naturally through the surface rather than pooling underneath. "This helps minimise standing water, reduces slip risks and keeps the area cleaner and more functional throughout the year," he explains.

What materials work best for an outdoor shower?

The UK climate is hard on outdoor fixtures, and outdoor showers are no exception. Rain, frost, UV exposure and fluctuating temperatures mean that material choices matter more here than almost anywhere else in the home. Lee Saunders is clear on what holds up best. "Marine-grade metals, treated timber and weather-resistant fittings are usually the best choice, as cheaper materials can corrode or deteriorate quickly in British weather conditions," he advises.

Outdoor tiles are one of the most popular choices for finishing a garden shower, but before you get carried away with mood-boards, Grazzie Wilson, head of creative at Ca' Pietra, says it's important to get the spec right.

"Look for something with proper grip, ideally an outdoor tile with an R11 slip rating underfoot, and make sure the material is suitable for exterior use, such as frost-resistant porcelain or a suitably finished natural stone." On style, Grazzie says tiles with tonal variation or a slightly imperfect finish tend to sit more naturally outside, echoing the textures already in the garden. Anything too polished or uniform can feel out of place.

Lesley Taylor, founder of Baked Tiles, flags the less visible details. "You need products that can cope with regular water exposure and will not panic the first time the temperature drops. A flexible, frost-resistant adhesive is also key," she adds, "because outdoor surfaces expand and contract far more than indoor ones."

How to winterise and maintain an outdoor shower

An outdoor shower left unprepared for winter can quickly become an expensive headache, and frozen pipes are one of the most common and costly culprits. Andy Ellis says the mistake most people make is thinking a simple shut-off is enough.

"Most homeowners think that shutting off the indoor isolation valve and leaving the outdoor shower head open is enough to clear the line but it's not," he warns. "Horizontal pipe runs naturally retain water, and when the water freezes it expands with immense force and can cause damage."

Thankfully, protecting your setup doesn't have to be complicated. Andy recommends installing a dedicated low-point drain valve inside the property, positioned at the lowest point of the pipe run before it exits the building.

Come autumn, the process is straightforward: shut the isolation valve, open the outdoor shower taps to release pressure, then open the internal drain valve. "This breaks the vacuum, allowing gravity to completely empty every drop of water out of the system," Andy explains.

For setups that can't be fully drained, wrapping pipework in mineral wool lagging and housing it inside a weatherproof conduit duct will offer solid protection, though Andy is clear that a gravity drain is always the safest option.

A little end-of-season care goes a long way too. Beyond winterising, regular cleaning and inspection will keep your shower looking good and working well for years to come. As Lesley Taylor puts it: "Get the details right and the tiles can do their thing without you worrying about cracks, staining or anything lifting after a wet winter."

FAQs

How much does an outdoor shower cost?

At the most straightforward end, a basic cold-water setup connecting to an existing outdoor tap can be achieved for a few hundred pounds, including the unit and minor plumbing work. Outdoor shower installation costs typically range from around £500 for a basic setup to £2,500 or more for something more elaborate.

Plumbing work can add £200 to £500, and electrical components such as lighting or a pump a further £150 to £400. Tiling, screening, and premium fixtures will add further still. As a rule of thumb, get at least two or three quotes from qualified plumbers before committing.

Where should you position an outdoor shower?

Positioning deserves as much thought as any other part of the installation. Lee Saunders recommends sheltered spots near walls, pergolas, courtyards or tall planting, which help with both privacy and wind protection. Proximity to the house is also worth considering, because the closer the shower is to an existing water supply, the simpler and less costly the plumbing will be.

There's also a seasonal consideration that catches many homeowners out. "Gardens that feel secluded in summer can become much more exposed once plants lose their leaves in autumn and winter," Lee warns. It's worth walking the space at different times of year before committing to a position, and thinking about permanent garden screening ideas such as timber panels, rendered walls or a built enclosure if year-round privacy is a priority.

Do you need planning permission for an outdoor shower?

For most homeowners, no. A simple wall-mounted or freestanding outdoor shower is unlikely to require planning permission. Where things get more complicated is if you're building a permanent enclosure around the shower, which may be treated as an outbuilding and subject to permitted development rules. When in doubt, always check with your local planning authority before starting any work, especially if your property is a listed building or sits within a conservation area.

An outdoor shower is just the beginning. If you're building a garden wellness space, our guide to garden saunas is worth a read, and find out what other garden trends are gracing our outdoors this year.

As the first thing you see when you approach your home and walk through the front door, a porch should feel calm and organised, setting the tone for a home you can return to and relax in at the end of the day.

However, as it's usually the place where we chaotically dump shoes, coats and bags, you might not think the words porch and organised belong in the same sentence. Fortunately, there are plenty of clever solutions that can help keep this space neat, tidy and functional.

To find out how to get your porch in tip-top shape, keep reading. We spoke to professional organisers to discover the products and storage solutions they swear by for creating an immaculate porch where everything has its place.

1. Shoe storage

No matter how big or small your porch is, shoe storage should be at the top of your priority list, says Kelly Moore, founder of Cleaning With Meaning. If space allows, we recommend choosing a storage bench which doubles as a seat, or investing in a mounted holder for airing out wellies (like this boot rack from Amazon).

While closed storage has the benefit of looking tidier, Heather Tingle, founder of Untangled by Tingle, says cabinet doors can sometimes become a barrier to putting things away and create a bottleneck at entrances. With that in mind, you may want to consider open storage instead.

Store shoes in style with these shopping picks

2. A washable rug

No matter how often you ask people to take their shoes off before coming inside, there will always be a few who slip through the door in dusty shoes and track dirt across the carpet. That's why a washable rug and/or doormat is an absolute must.

"A washable indoor-outdoor runner rug is one of the best investments you can make," says Kelly Moore. "It catches dirt before it travels through the house and can be easily cleaned when needed."

Don't worry if your porch is awkwardly shaped – many rug companies, such as Ruggable, offer custom-made options to help you get the perfect size.

Washable rugs we love

3. A strong lighting design

There’s nothing worse than scrambling around trying to find your things (especially when you’re in a rush in the morning), so investing in good porch lighting is key. My porch features LED spotlights that offer the best visibility and brightness and sit flush to the wall.

For outside porches, you may want to install a wall lantern that doubles as a security feature, or place floor lights along steps to avoid any falls.

Lighting shopping picks

4. A mail organiser and bin

I don't know about you, but I have an ever-growing stack of junk mail and leaflets piling up in my porch that I always forget to throw away. As a solution, Heather Tingle suggests buying a small paper recycling bin to keep by your door – something I'm definitely going to look into!

If family members are in at different times, you may also want to install a shelf or delivery organiser for parcels and letters to ensure that important mail doesn't get misplaced.

Shop these mail organisers

5. Wall-mounted storage for coats and bags

"Wall-mounted hooks are another must-have," says Kelly Moore. "They free up floor space and make it easy for the whole family to develop good habits."

Whether it's a shelf lined with baskets of bags or a hooks for hanging coats, the best thing about wall-mounted storage is that it works well for the smallest of porches, as it doesn't take up too much room.

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With a few clever systems in place, you won’t have to run around tidying up your porch every couple of days – the right storage and design will do the hard work for you.

For more organisation tips, read how to organise a shed and how to organise a utility room.

If you want to add summer colour and fragrance to a patio or deck, then our tips on how to plant roses in pots may come in handy.

These beautiful blooms are a well-loved favourite, and you don't have to have acres of space to grow them. With the right varieties and a few pretty containers, you can fill even the smallest of gardens with their romantic, whimsical charm and delicious scent.

Roses care is more straightforward than you might think, too, once you've got the know-how. But when growing them in garden planters, there are a few tips to take on board for the very best results – our guide explains all.

How to plant roses in pots in 6 simple steps

John Negus, a renowned British horticulturist, author and journalist, shares his step-by-step tips on how to plant roses in pots.

1. Choose a planter of a decent size that can comfortably accommodate all the roots of your rose plant. Place it in its final position (for example as part of your patio planting ideas) as it may be too heavy to move once planted up. Ideally go for somewhere that gets sun for at least half the day. Cover the drainage hole with 8cm of crocks or stones and sit the rose, in its pot, in the centre.
2. Mix a nutrient-rich potting compost with mycorrhizal fungi – for instance, John Innes potting compost No3 (available on Amazon) and Rootgrow (also available on Amazon). You can also add 10–20% multi-purpose or well-rotted manure for added richness. Work it into the gap between both pots and firm it gently. Carefully remove the potted rose and tap it from its container. Place the root ball into the hole you 
have made in the larger pot and add a little more compost.
3. Plant it at the same depth at which it was previously growing. Make sure that the compost surface is about 5cm below the rim of the pot, for watering.
4. Stand the pot on 'feet' to ensure that surplus moisture freely drains away. After planting, water copiously so that roots are in close contact with the compost.
5. Pruning roses should normally be done in late winter to early spring. Shorten the main stems by half and side shoots to two buds. Remove crowded stems from the middle of the bush.
6. Containers dry out quicker than flower beds so need more frequent watering. Water your potted roses freely in dry spells and fertilise plants with a high-potash liquid feed weekly from late spring to early autumn.
   
   You might want to include automatic watering as part of your garden irrigation plans too.

When is the best time to plant a rose in a pot?

If you've bought your rose in a pot, it can generally be planted at any time of the year. Avoid doing so during periods of drought or frost, however.

If you're planting bare root roses, this is best done from late autumn to mid-spring. Similar timings work well if you are planting bare root trees in pots too.

What are the best types of roses for containers?

Not all types of roses thrive in containers, as they need a deep root run. 


"You could try hybrid tea varieties, but I suspect they will not do terribly well," says John. "The best roses for containers are the patio and miniature types, which can be grown in small but deep pots (23-35cm) deep. You could also try less vigorous and climbing roses, but use larger containers with a minimum depth of 30-46cm.

"The RHS recommends the following as its top five roses for containers: 'Nice Day' (patio climber), 'Sweet Dream' (patio and also suitable as a standard), 'Magic Carpet' (groundcover), 'Laura Ford' (patio climber) and 'Robin Redbreast' (miniature or ground cover)," John continues.

I would also recommend looking in a catalogue to choose the varieties you like. David Austin recommends English roses for container growing and there are many varieties on the website. Look for a climbing variety if you want to train it up a pergola or fence as a screening plant.

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FAQs

How do you care for potted roses after summer?

Roses are dormant in winter and generally unaffected by frosts, but if yours are still flowering, they will appreciate a little protection.

John suggests wrapping two
layers of bubble plastic around the pots and covering the compost with a 10cm layer of composted bark to encourage strong growth the following year. In spring, remove the top 10–12cm of compost and replace it with a nutrient-rich compost.

Whether your roses are still flowering or not when temperatures drop, it's a good idea to site the pots somewhere sunny and sheltered – along a garden wall, for instance. Ensure each is on pot 'feet' so that excess moisture drains away.

If you can only find an exposed site in your garden landscaping for your potted roses, and they've finished flowering, you may wish to cut them back by a third of their size in autumn. As the David Austin team explains, this can help prevent 'wind rock', which is where wind loosens roses at their base from the soil.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

If you're asking should you wallpaper over damp, the most obvious and simple answer is no. Why would you? If you have a recurring damp issue, then wallpapering over it will rarely solve the problem. However, it's not always that straightforward.

Covering a constant source of damp will of course only make the problem worse. However, if you have dealt with the issue, or it's only an infrequent visitor and you know why, then knowing how to wallpaper the damp area correctly could be successful.

Here, we explore the reasons for wallpapering over damp areas, and the specialist products and tools you’ll need to ensure your efforts aren't in vain.

Why you shouldn't wallpaper over damp

Wallpapering directly over damp surfaces is generally not recommended, as Nischal Pomu, director at Platinum Paints, notes. “In most cases, I would say no, not until the cause of the damp has been properly identified and resolved. Wallpapering over active damp usually only hides the issue temporarily.”

George Edwards, managing director of Timberwise, shares the issues that can arise if you do wallpaper over damp.

“You will be masking a problem that will only get worse," he warns. “Moisture will be trapped behind the paper, and mould will grow in the dark between the paper and the walls.” This can lead to serious issues, especially if the damp is constant.

“Within weeks or months, you’ll see patches bleeding through and may notice a musty smell,” explains George. "You will have to strip the damaged wallpaper, and you will be back to square one, except it will be worse.”

“Any ongoing rising damp, penetrating damp, or constant moisture problems should always be fixed before decorating,” agrees Nischal.

Reasons why wallpapering over damp could be an option

Once damp has seeped into walls and ceilings, it can cause cracks, defects and discolouration, and this may make wallpapering seem like a good idea rather than painting over damp.

“A lot of homeowners wallpaper over damp mainly for cosmetic reasons," agrees Nischal Pomu. "Damp staining, hairline cracking, and uneven surfaces can make a room look tired very quickly, so wallpaper is sometimes seen as a quicker way to improve appearance without major repair work.”

However, wallpapering over damp is typically a temporary fix while the issue is being investigated. “The problem is that wallpaper rarely solves damp itself; it usually only hides the symptoms for a period of time," notes Nischal.

That said, “there are situations where wallpapering can still work once the wall has stabilised and dried out,” he continues. “For example, an old chimney breast may leave historic staining after the original issue has already been repaired. In those cases, after proper stain blocking and preparation, wallpaper can sometimes be used successfully.”

Wallpapering can also be an inexpensive option compared to removing any plaster, dealing with the issue and getting the wall/ceiling re-plastered. Keeping your house temperature at the right level can also be a way to help prevent the damp returning once the main problem has been resolved.

Shop these tools to wallpaper over damp

Best wallpaper for damp walls

If you have got walls that have suffered from damp, or are currently suffering from it, you certainly don’t want to use standard wallpaper when papering over damp. Alisdair Simpson, managing director at Retford Wallcoverings Limited explains why.

“Standard pulp-based wallpapers are generally unsuitable for damp-affected walls, as continual moisture exposure can cause the material to break down, often leading to staining, mould growth and adhesion failure.”

If you are going to wallpaper over damp areas, you will need to use a specific type of wallpaper to address the issue. “Specialist systems such as Wallrock Dampstop Thermic are designed to help block the appearance of penetrating damp and associated staining," explains Alisdair, "whilst creating a durable surface suitable for further decoration using paste-the-wall lining papers on top.

“When using Wallrock Dampstop Thermic, it is particularly important that dimensionally stable PTW wallcoverings are used, as traditional wallpapers may be more susceptible to movement and adhesion issues over the non-porous metallic surface.”

However, once the Wallrock system is in place, “standard wallpaper can be used if you’ve covered the area with damp-proof foil and/or thermal lining paper,” says Alasdair.

Wallpapering over damp with Wallrock Dampstop

If you are going to wallpaper over damp with the Wallrock Dampstop system, there is a specific process to follow advises Alisdair Simpson.

“Wallrock Dampstop Thermic is applied directly to the wall using Wallrock Dampstop Thermic Adhesive, with the grey polypropylene surface facing the wall.” But before you start, "the wall should first be cleaned, repaired and primed where necessary," notes Alisdair.

“Once dry, the metallic surface can either be left exposed to help reflect heat back into the room – making it particularly useful behind radiators,” he shares. However, the more common option is to cover it.

“Overhang with dimensionally stable PTW lining papers such as this Wallrock Fibreliner from Amazon, insulating wallcoverings such as this Wallrock Thermal Liner from Amazon, or paste the wall decorative wallpaper,” suggests Alasdair.

A key component of a successful job is the right adhesive. “For best performance, Wallrock Dampstop Thermic Adhesive should continue to be used for all subsequent papers applied on top," he notes.

However, “as with any damp-related issue, the underlying cause of the moisture should always be properly identified and resolved alongside any cosmetic treatment,” Alisdair concludes.

FAQs

Will PVA seal a damp wall?

PVA glue is often suggested as a cost-effective sealant, but in damp conditions, it's not a wise idea, explains Nischal Pomu. “PVA is not really designed to solve damp problems. In fact, sealing moisture into a wall can sometimes make issues worse over time because the wall cannot breathe properly.”

“PVA breaks down on contact with damp, becomes sticky and then causes plaster and paint to fail,” adds George Edwards.

Can I use a dehumidifier to help remove damp from walls?

The best dehumidifiers can help combat damp confirms Nischal Pomu. “A dehumidifier can definitely help reduce moisture levels within a room and speed up drying conditions, especially after condensation or minor humidity-related issues.”

However, they are not the solution to persistent damp problems, he continues. “If the damp is being caused by an ongoing issue such as rising damp, leaking gutters, failed pointing, plumbing leaks, or penetrating moisture, a dehumidifier alone will not fully solve the problem.

“It may improve the symptoms temporarily, but the source still needs to be repaired properly for a long-term solution," says Nischal.

Damp can strike anywhere and spoil walls and ceilings in any room. Make sure you know exactly how to treat damp in older houses before you start on any wallpapering project. Then, once the correct base layer has been applied, make sure you avoid these wallpapering mistakes when applying the top and final wallpaper layer.

Growing lavender might seem straightforward but there are tips for how to grow it that will have a big impact on how good your plants look.

The key thing to remember is that lavender comes from the Mediterranean so loves baking in a sunny spot. It’s super easy to grow in most climates though and you can take cuttings from it to multiply your plants. It’s a nice flower to have around when you want to kick back and destress too, as the scent is so calming and relaxing.

For maximum impact, position lavender near doors, windows and paths in your garden landscaping to get the full benefits of the fragrance. And just watch as the bees and butterflies swarm all over it.

Getting started with growing lavender

Lavender is a hassle-free plant that will be equally happy in the ground or in a container. It thrives in flower borders, raised beds and gravel gardens, as well as being a natural fit with herb gardens.

Lavender is a great choice for low-maintenance garden ideas too. The flowers go on for ever so there's not a lot of deadheading to do. You don't have to fertilise it either, as lavender doesn’t like rich soil which means plants don’t need liquid feeds.

How to grow lavender successfully comes down to a few key pointers.

1. Planting lavender is really quick and easy. Find a sunny spot with well-drained soil – it won’t do well in shady, damp or cold conditions. 
2. Thanks to its Mediterranean heritage it prefers dry soil, so if your garden has clay soil or becomes waterlogged it might be better to grow it in pots.
3. Try to get your lavender planted as soon as you can once you’ve got it home.
4. Dig the patch of soil where you want it to go and remove any weeds.
5. Leave plenty of space for your lavender to grow if you’re aiming for lots together to get the sought-after effect of drifts of romantic planting.
6. Water regularly after planting and pay particular attention to your plants during hot weather. Once established, lavender is drought tolerant. This is great news as it doesn't need lots of watering.
7. Lavender grown in garden planters may need a little more attention, particularly in the height of summer as the soil will dry out quickly in hot weather. In winter, keep containers fairly dry and stand them on feet to help drainage.

What type of gardens suit lavender? 

Whatever your garden style there’s room for lavender. Perfect for your cottage garden ideas, this classic mixes beautifully with roses and foxgloves in a haze of romantic planting.

It also looks good in more urban-style spaces, so can be a good choice for modern garden ideas too, working equally well clipped into shape in modern raised garden beds or airy planting style in minimal Mediterranean-inspired gravel gardens.

Don’t miss a trick with containers either. Lavender looks great potted up, either as the main event or weaved in among other flowers.

How to choose the right type of lavender for your garden

Known mostly for their distinctive mauve flowers and aromatic foliage, there are in fact many different types of lavender to choose from. It's one of the top bee friendly plants, so is a perfect way to attract pollinators to your garden, too.

• English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) This is the one most people think of when lavender springs to mind. It's strongly scented, covered in masses of purple-blue flowers and the leaves are silver-grey. It’s hardy and can be left outside during winter as long as it's planted in free-draining soil. It also flowers for months on end. Favourite varieties include ‘Hidcote’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) and ‘Munstead’ (available from Crocus). It’s also possible to buy pink and white varieties of English lavender.
• French lavender (Lavandula stoecha) and other tender varieties These are less hardy than English lavenders and don't live as long. Grow them in containers that you can then lift inside for overwintering. A conservatory or greenhouse is ideal. These ones have flowers that are a different shape to the English varieties, topped by pretty feathery tufts, and their scent is not as strong. Try Lavandula pedunculata (available from Crocus) for an early flowering variety.
• Hybrid 'lavendins' These have been bred from a mix of Lavandula angustifolia and Lavandula latifolia, which makes them more robust and tolerant of wetter soils and colder winters. They grow bigger than English lavenders and have more flowers for a longer period of time, which means more nectar for bees. Popular hybrid lavenders include ‘Edelweiss’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) and ‘Grosso’ (also from Thompson & Morgan).

Shop our favourite lavender varieties

What's the best way to prune lavender?

Everyone’s been in the situation where they've had a lavender plant that becomes dry and woody by late summer, and ends up looking half dead. Snip them into shape after they’ve finished flowering though and you will keep your lavender looking neat in your patio edging or alongside garden paths, as well as rejuvenating it for next year.

Trim any faded flower stalks (although birds like to eat these so you can leave them on if you prefer) but make sure you don’t cut the woody stems as this will limit any new growth.

Foliage can be clipped in spring if your plant has been damaged by frost. If your plants are looking really jaded it might be time to replace them with new ones though. But treat them well and they can last up to ten years.

How to dry lavender

Whatever type of lavender you grow, drying it is incredibly easy and you can use it to scent your linen cupboard or drawers.

1. First snip your flowers. Follow the stem down from the flower bud until you reach a junction where two side leaves or new buds have begun to form.
2. Snip the stem just there and the plant will continue to produce more fresh flowers. For longer stems, simply snip deeper into the plant. 
3. The simplest way to dry fresh lavender is to hang it up in small bunches.
4. Secure each bunch loosely with twine, then hang them upside down in a warm, dry spot where the air can circulate around them. 
5. Alternatively dry your bunches of lavender in vases, making sure there is plenty of room for air to circulate around the stems to prevent them going mouldy.

FAQs

What is the best time of year to plant lavender?

As long as the weather is good, in the UK lavender is best planted out in the garden in April or May. This is because the soil starts to warm up at this time of year so it offers the ideal growing conditions for your plants to get established. You cna plant it at other times of the year, however.

Just remember to never plant out lavender on cold days though – it's a Mediterranean garden plant and will need a little cosseting early in the year in case of any unexpected cold snaps.

Where does lavender grow best?

There is quite a choice when it comes to lavender varieties but the main thing to remember is that all of them love a sunny position, whether they’re hardy, half-hardy or tender species. So give your lavender what it needs by making it feel at home in a sun trap. It's also a great plant for a gravel garden.

Plants in containers are always more susceptible to cold, as their roots are less insulated than when in the ground. Plus if the soil is waterlogged it can freeze. However they do have the added benefit of being moveable. To help lavender survive cooler temperatures, transfer your containers to a sheltered spot over winter.

Does lavender grow back every year?

Give lavender what it likes (a sunny spot, dry soil, a light prune every now and then) and the answer is yes. Some types of French and tender lavenders are not hardy though and won’t survive the winter outside so always make sure you check the label before you buy. Opt for a hardy English variety of lavender if you want to leave yours outside all year round as a pretty screening plant for your patio, for example.

Lavender bushes typically last for between seven and 10 years, sometimes longer. But generally at some point they will need replacing.

Does lavender grow well in pots?

Lavender loves growing in pots and is a great choice for pretty window boxes as part of your front garden ideas. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes and use a loamy compost such as John Innes No 2 with plenty of grit or perlite mixed in to help with drainage. A good ratio is 25% grit/75% compost.

Once planted water well, then continue to water at regular intervals throughout summer, more so if the weather is really hot. Keep an eye on the compost to see if it has dried out, and snip out any faded flowers to encourage more to grow.

Plant lavender in pots with these essentials

Lavender plants are widely available from garden centres and online during spring and summer. Plants are usually sold in 9cm pots ready for planting out in your garden design.

If you want to get an early start lavender is also sold as plug plants in spring. This is a cheaper way to buy it, particularly if you’re planning on planting masses to get those desirable lavender drifts. But you will need an indoor space to nurture these plantlings until any chance of late frost has passed.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Despite its uninspiring name and haphazard appearance, there is much more to OSB than meets the eye. It is in fact a versatile timber-based board suitable for a wide range of DIY and home renovation projects.

It's commonly used as an alternative to plywood and, in some cases, as a plasterboard alternative, adding an industrial aesthetic to interior design projects. While it could be argued that it's less visually appealing, its composition still makes it a very attractive option for many DIY builds where aesthetics aren’t the number one priority.

Here, we delve into where it can be used, its benefits and drawbacks, and how much you can expect to pay.

What does OSB stand for?

OSB stands for Oriented Strand Board. Paul Kerr, building specialist at Beatsons, explains its makeup. “It's basically a wood panel made by heat pressing wood strands with glue.”

Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb, explains what makes it appropriate for use in a variety of DIY projects. “The boards are strong and durable, which means they are commonly used for construction projects.”

Shop OSB board and tools to protect it

Popular uses for OSB

OSB is a popular choice for a lot of DIY and home renovation projects, but it's typically used inside the home explains Mark Irving. “OSB is most commonly used in internal construction projects, as it is incredibly strong and durable. Typically, it will be used for wall sheathing, roofing, loft boarding and site hoarding.

“OSB can also be used for subfloors, partition walls, and shelving" he adds, "as it provides a solid, stable surface.”

OSB is rarely used for work outside the home notes Paul Kerr, “as the boards are usually not weatherproof, and unless treated specifically, should not be used for external projects.”

If however the boards are protected or treated, they can be used on a range of projects, continues Mark. “OSB can be suitable for large-scale building projects such as timber-frame construction, sheds and DIY renovations.”

And, while it's often covered over, it can also be left exposed says Paul. “You sometimes see the odd interior design project using OSB for rustic shelving and tables,” he agrees. It’s also sometimes left bare on walls to create a more industrial aesthetic.

Pros and cons of OSB

Mark Irving reveals the key benefits and drawbacks of OSB:

What sizes does it come in and how much does OSB cost?

As well as its strength and durability, there’s another reason why it's so attractive for DIYers and that's the cost. However, the price is determined by several factors, including size, thickness, and grade.

“OSB is one of the more affordable options for construction, with prices ranging between £15 and £35 per sheet,” says Mark Irving.

“The industry standard is 2400mm x 1200mm, and the thickness varies from 9mm up to 18mm," expands Paul Kerr. “The thinnest OSBs usually start from around £10, and usually don't sell for more than £25.”

As an example of price, this OSB 3 OSB 2440mm x 1220mm x 9mm from B&Q sells for just under £20. The smallest size sells for around £11. This 18mm OSB 3 OSB 2440mm x 1220mm x 18mm from B&Q sells for £24.

The cost of OSB is also why it's considered an attractive alternative to plywood in certain situations, continues Mark.

“Typically, OSB is cheaper, which makes it the ideal choice for structural applications where the appearance of the project is less important than the budget or the performance.“

“It's usually about 20% cheaper than a plywood board," adds Paul, "which is the reason why it's taken over as the most popular board for internal framing work.”

FAQs

Should I use nails or screws to fit OSB?

Both nails and screws can be used to install OSB. Which one you use can depend on the project. If installing OSB on internal walls, ceilings, and floors, screws are a popular choice because they are much easier to remove if you need to replace any OSB. Screws will also pull OSB tight against any frame and hold well.

These Single Thread Countersunk Pozi Screws from Toolstation will do the job. The screw length should be approximately twice the OSB thickness. If you are using 18mm OSB, 40mm or 60mm screws will suffice.

Nails are quicker to install, especially with a nail gun, and are often used for fixing to exterior framing as they offer more give.

If using nails, galvanised or stainless-steel ring-shank nails are recommended. Galvanised nails such as these Tacwise Extra Galvanised Framing Nails from Amazon are good for general DIY projects, as long as they aren’t regularly exposed to moisture.

Can I paint or tile directly onto OSB?

Yes to painting, no to tiling.

OSB is porous, which means it absorbs a lot of liquid. If you are going to paint OSB, you will need to start with a primer/sealer, such as this Zinsser B-I-N from Screwfix, to seal the surface and create a stable base for subsequent coats of paint.

When it comes to tiling, it's important to know that the board will absorb the moisture if you apply the tile adhesive directly to the board, causing it to fail. Tiles can fall off walls or start to shift and crack. However, it can be used as a substrate for tiles, provided you install a cement backer board (such as this HardieBacker 6mm Backerboard from B&Q) over the OSB.

You’ll also need to make sure that the OSB is secure and doesn’t flex. This is more applicable to floors than walls or ceilings. If it does, you’ll end up with adhesion issues.

How long does OSB last?

It depends very much on its usage. If installed correctly and protected, e.g., with wall sheathing, it can last for 20+ years. However, if left unprotected and exposed, it will depend on the environment. Internally, it can last for years, as long as it is not exposed to moisture.

If used externally and left exposed to the elements, OSB will be lucky to last a year. However, if well protected, with a sealant such as Siramico Coatings Liquid Rubber Roof Coating from Amazon, it can easily last five years. To extend its lifespan, make sure to seal the edges and reapply any sealant/paint every 3-5 years.

OSB is a multi-talented board; not only can it be used on its own, but it is also part of SIPs (structural insulated panels), which are a popular product for building extensions and homes.

Is skimming over wallpaper wise? While it might not always seem like the most obvious choice, and sometimes it's not, remember that with any DIY or home improvement project, there’s rarely just one perfect solution. Sometimes, skimming over wallpaper really can be the best option.

However, getting your preparation correct is crucial to success. Skip past this stage, and it's almost pointless plastering a wall. The plaster will fail to adhere to the surface, and it won’t be long before it starts to crack and fall away from the wall or ceiling.

Here, the pros reveal when it's a wise choice to skim over wallpaper, and how to prep well to ensure your efforts aren't in vain.

Should you skim over wallpaper?

The simple answer is you can do it, but it's rarely the recommended option. It's more of a last resort.

Angelo Patrizi, founder of Nuova Home Improvements, shares his thoughts. “You can, but honestly, I wouldn’t recommend it most of the time. After 15 years doing this kind of work, I’ve seen people try it again and again – and I’ve seen it fail just as often.

“Plaster requires a stable, porous surface to adhere properly, which wallpaper doesn’t provide," he explains. This means a poor skim coat can lead to more work later. “If it’s not done correctly, you might have to redo everything in six months," warns Angelo.

Shop these tools for skimming over wallpaper

Reasons when skimming over wallpaper is a good idea

While skimming over wallpaper isn’t a first choice, there are reasons why you might need to. “If you’ve got only one layer of paper, it’s stuck down well, and the edges aren’t lifting, and if the customer’s desperate for a quick fix, skimming over wallpaper can make sense,” says Angelo Patrizi, also citing the following additional reasons why you might find it a suitable option.

• To keep the wall intact – “Usually it’s about what’s underneath," says Angelo. "In older homes, the wallpaper sometimes holds the wall together, and stripping it can turn into a nightmare."
• To get rid of textures and imperfections – Skimming over wallpaper can also saves the hassle of removing textured wallpaper and treating any imperfections in a wall. Prep properly, and all these issues can disappear behind a skim of plaster.
• It can be quicker and easier – If you have stubborn wallpaper that will take a lot of steaming and scraping to remove the wallpaper, then a skim coat is a much quicker and easier alternative.

Can I skim over any type of wallpaper?

Certain types of wallpaper work much better than others for being hidden underneath a skim coat. “Heavy lining paper is easiest as it gives a decent grip for the plaster. Standard printed wallpaper works if it’s properly glued down,” shares Angelo Patrizi.

However, other types of wallpaper are to be avoided, he warns. “Vinyl wallpaper is a lost cause; plaster just won’t stick to its non-porous surface. Anaglypta or any heavy textured wallpaper – forget it. The texture shows through, adhesion is unreliable, and the finished look is awful once painted.”

Steps for prepping wallpaper for skimming

If you decide to go ahead and skim over wallpaper, you need to get your preparation right. The more time spent on preparation, the better the outcome. Scott Godfrey, construction trade consultant for Black Hammer, shares where to start.

“Start by proving the wallpaper is genuinely sound. Pick an inconspicuous corner or seam and try to lift it. If it wants to come away with light effort, it needs stripping rather than skimming,” he says.

However, if it is a suitable candidate for skimming. Follow these steps for the best end result.

1. Secure loose sections

“Walk the wall and press along joints and overlaps," says Scott. "Any loose seam should be re-adhered and flattened before going further. Next, cut out any blisters and soft bubbles back to firm edges so you're not trapping a void under plaster.”

2. Clean surface

Next you need to ensure the surface is completely clean. “Get rid of any surface contamination like grease or polish residue with a suitable degreaser and allow it to dry," advises Scott. "Lightly sand the surface to knock back any sheen and high spots, as a slightly dulled surface is easier to bond to than a slick one.”

3. Prime surface

This is the key step to providing a proper bonding surface so the plaster does not soak in, re-wet the paste, or slide off.

“Use a problem-surface sealer or grit-bonding primer (such as this Sika Febond Blue Grit Plasterers Grip Coat from Screwfix) that is rated for difficult backgrounds like wallpaper," explains Scott. "The aim is to lock down the paper face and paste, and also give the skim coat a consistent key.”

4. Add skim coat

After priming, you then need to reinforce any weak lines. "Bed scrim tape over wallpaper seams and any cracks in the substrate that are visible or suspected" recommends Scott, "then apply plaster in two thin coats, rather than trying to cover everything in one heavy pass.

“Keeping coats tight reduces the amount of water sitting on the wall and reduces the load while the plaster is green, which is when failure often starts,” he explains.

To apply the skim coat, use a textured roller, such as the ROLLINGDOG 9 Inch Drywall Skimming Roller from Amazon, and a skimming blade.

5 . Dry naturally

“Finally, allow steady drying with gentle ventilation rather than forcing heat," advises Scott. "Rapid drying can encourage cracking, especially where wallpaper joints sit beneath the finish,” he warns.

Following this final step is important if you want to ensure a secure finish of skim to wallpaper.

FAQs

Will it be as good a finish as skimming a bare wall?

“It will never be as stable as skimming over a properly prepped wall," says Angelo Patrizi, "but if you do everything right, it can last years. However, it’s always weaker than starting afresh.”

Walls aren’t the only surface where you can skim over wallpaper; wallpapered ceilings can be tackled in the same way, but proceed with caution, says Angelo.

“Ceilings are a whole different story; if the bond fails there, gravity takes over, and you end up with a disaster," he warns. “I’m much more cautious about skimming ceilings than walls. On walls, you’ve got a little more wiggle room.

“Any movement or damp issue behind the skim on walls or ceilings will cause trouble sooner or later,” he adds, so it's vital to make sure any prep is done thoroughly.

What can go wrong?

In the short term, the skim can start to fail almost immediately, shares Angelo Patrizi. “The usual problem is the skim coming away from the wallpaper as it dries, because the paper shifted or wasn’t stuck down properly.” This can be dangerous and messy, particularly on a skimmed ceiling.

“Ceilings are risky; sections can fall, and that’s a nightmare to clean up," advises Angelo, adding the other issues that can occur include, “seeing bubbles appear from trapped moisture, and hollow spots where the plaster never got a good grip.”

Skimming can also trap moisture, leading to long-term issues, including damp patches that can cause mould growth and staining. Eventually, this can lead to plaster failure.

“If you ever need to redo the wall, you're also dealing with a fused mess of plaster and paper," says Angelo. "It’s much harder to strip back. Skipping steps at the start usually means triple the work later,” he concludes.

Skimming over wallpaper will leave you with a smooth, smart wall, ideal for a variety of decorating options, but you will still need to prep the plaster before painting or re-wallpapering. Check our guides on wallpapering over new plaster and painting new plaster to get it right.

For the majority of the year, my Edwardian cottage, is bordering on Arctic temperatures. It doesn't matter whether it's finally 'shorts weather' outside and the sun is shining, inside remains undeniably nippy. That said, for two or three months of the year when things really warm up, trying to sleep upstairs becomes an experience that, I imagine, is akin to hanging out in a pizza oven. In short, it becomes unbearably hot.

This has lead me to look into installing air conditioning or, at the very least, investing in a portable unit – anything to get a good night's sleep and reduce the horribly stuffy atmosphere that develops in the bedrooms.

The thing is, I have rarely been bowled over by the appearance of air con units – so do I really want one in my home? To help me decide whether or not to take the plunge, I reached out to the experts to find out if there is a way to get air conditioning units to blend in a little, while still doing their job.

Is air conditioning always an eyesore?

When I think of air conditioning, I think either of those great big wall-mounted units you see in offices that have slightly yellowed over time, or hulking great portable beasts that require you to hang an unsightly pipe out of your window for all to see. Is this what you have to give into if you want to cool down a room in your house this summer?

"Ugly AC is a personal obsession of mine," picks up Kevin Pennington, owner and MD of Lancashire Air Conditioning. "But air conditioning does not need to be ugly. It is ugly because we do not have a fully developed air-conditioning market in this country and most people are just buying units in an emergency from anywhere. They're not thinking about the design, just about how to get their kids to be able to sleep when the house is boiling hot."

Sam Carter, heating and cooling appliances expert at Appliances Direct, agrees that the issue often comes down to a lack of research, rather than a complete absence of attractive options. "In the UK, home air conditioning popularity is growing, but there is still a little education needed on the types available, and the pros and cons of each. However, a little research before purchasing should help you find the right appliance to fit your needs."

Can you vent portable air conditioning units subtly?

Let's start by looking at portable air conditioning units, usually the go-to for UK homeowners who use them in summer and store them in winter. I actually tested one out not too long ago and, while it cooled the room quickly, the fact that the ducting needed to be hung out of the window ruined things a bit. So, what's the solution?

"In the UK people tend to start with loud, ugly portable units and they fling the hose out of the window," says Kevin Pennington. "The next step up from this would be to core a hole through the wall and fit an exterior vent. This should cost around £200-£300, plus the cost of the unit.

"It leaves the outside looking better and makes these units more effective because you don’t have a window open, but ultimately you are still left with a loud – and arguably 'ugly' – portable unit," he continues. "Once people have got fed up with the noise and appearance, they tend to upgrade to a properly fitted unit."

That said, Sam Carter is keen to point out that the design of the best portable air conditioning units has really progressed in recent years meaning they aren't always the hefty eyesores they once were.

"Portable air conditioning units don’t need to be bulky or get in the way – modern units come in a variety of sizes, colours and styles, so you can usually find one that fits into your space in a more subtle way.

"Modern top-end portable units are designed with a smaller footprint and in premium finishes," adds Sam. "Manufacturers are utilising matte textures, minimalist digital displays, and sleek, vertical silhouettes. Instead of looking like a jarring appliance, modern portables are designed to blend into the room like a high-end air purifier or smart speaker, allowing them to sit discreetly alongside furniture or houseplants."

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Are all wall-mounted air con units big white boxes?

If you want something a bit more permanent then it is worth looking at wall-mounted vs portable air conditioners. Wall-mounted is usually seen as the next step up. Again, the examples I've seen have not been too inspiring up until now, but is that changing?

"Of the all the standard white units, I’ve always preferred the Worcester Bosch 3200i series and I also like the LG Standard Plus units," reveals Kevin Pennington. "The LG unit is particularly attractive because it has a chrome strip across the bottom which makes it look slightly less industrial. However, we have to be realistic – both units might work incredibly well but they are still white boxes."

The positive here is that if you are prepared to pay a little more in the name of aesthetics, wall units do come in colours other than white, and in some sleeker designs too, as Kevin points out. "There are some really beautiful units available to members of the public if they are willing to just spend a little more money.

"The LG Artcool mirror is a very attractive unit, with smoked black glass on the front. Taking it up a notch is the Toshiba Haori," he suggests. "This unit has an interchangeable fabric cover and with either the default fabric or a custom fabric chosen to complement the room it can look phenomenal. You can even get units that look like photo frames now."

Daikin have also recognised the need for something more aesthetic with the new, design award-winning Stylish range of air con units. Available in a range of finishes, including silver, black, fabric, wood effect, a bright blue and even a leather effect, the kit comes with everything you need for a more blended interior approach. It's also once of the slimmest models meaning the size is less obtrusive too.

So, while there's no getting away from the fact that you will still need to mount a box at high level on your wall, there are at least now options other than white that can help you blend air con into your interior slightly more seamlessly.

That said, if speed is more your priority than appearance, then some retailers, such as BOXT pride themselves on a fast quote to installation process, so it could be a case of weighing up what matters most to you. The company has also partnered up with B&Q to offer customers extra discounts when purchasing through the DIY store.

What is the best way to blend in an air conditioning unit?

If you don't love the idea of your air conditioning costs spiralling, there are still ways of blending in more affordable designs, as Tom Houlker, director and air conditioning expert at Houlk Air, explains.

"Air conditioning can blend in as long as you don’t treat it like an afterthought. The worst installs are those where the unit is just installed onto the nearest spare wall. If it’s lined up properly, kept clear of clutter, and placed somewhere that makes sense with the room, it can look neat and blend in," says Tom.

"The best-looking jobs are usually planned early, before the room is finished," continues Tom. "That gives you a chance to hide pipework, choose a better position and avoid awkward runs across walls. With retrofits, I’d focus on a clean install rather than trying to make the unit disappear completely.

"A slim wall-mounted unit in the right place will often look better than badly boxing something in," he recommends. "Tidy pipework, straight trunking and sensible positioning make a huge difference, because people notice messy work far more than they notice the unit itself."

What is the most attractive type of air conditioning?

There are several different types of air conditioning available, each with their own set of pros and cons. There tends, however, to be one clear winner when it comes to good-looks.

"If you don't mind spending a good amount of money, nothing is better than a hidden ducted system," states Kevin Pennington. "This is the gold standard of systems. The air conditioning unit is hidden in an attic or in a plastered space like a bulkhead. Most of these units use plastic or metal grills to allow the airflow to enter and be removed from the room and these can look very nice.

"For a really great finish, however, we use gypsum vents," he continues, "which are plastered into the ceiling directly and can be almost invisible. That said, these systems are expensive and only a few companies are able to install them to a high standard."

Tom Houlker agrees that, for a sleek finish, ducted systems are the best option but points out that careful air conditioning installation is required for it to be worthwhile. "Before choosing one, check that you actually have enough ceiling or loft space to properly house the ductwork," he advises.

"You still need proper airflow and service access, because if a unit is boxed in too tightly or hidden behind joinery, it can struggle to cool, collect dust, become harder to clean, and cost more to repair because engineers can’t get to it as easily."

FAQs

What is the best way to duct portable air conditioning to the outside?

For many people in the UK, using air conditioning to keep a house cool is not often required, meaning portable units are ideal. That said, knowing how to vent them to outside in a way that doesn't ruin the kerb appeal of your home or get in the way inside, can be tricky.

There are several ways to approach this and Sam Carter explains the most common (and simplest). "Most portable air conditioners are supplied with a window kit which allows you to neatly fix your portable AC to your window without looking messy from outside. There are options for all window types including window seals that neatly zip around your window."

If, however, you don't relish the idea of your window having to be open to run your air conditioning, it might be better to run the ducting through a hole in your exterior wall, with a neat vent on the outside.

Air conditioning isn't for everyone – and if you have decided to give it a miss, there are plenty of very effective natural ways to cool a house for you to consider instead. Or, if you think a fan will be sufficient, check out our review of the Duux Whisper Flex 2 Fan or the MeacoFan Sefte 10" Pedestal Air Circulator – which was tested during a heatwave.

For most people renovating a kitchen, the utility room is an afterthought. The kitchen gets the mood boards and the endless decisions about hardware finishes, while the utility gets whatever is left over – usually a cheaper version of the same thing, on the basis that matching feels like the safe, considered choice.

But is matching your utility and kitchen actually the right call? Increasingly, designers think not. The best utility room ideas are those that treat the space on its own terms, designed around what it actually needs to do, rather than what the room next door looks like.

Below, we ask the experts how to strike the right balance between connection and individuality, so you can get both rooms right.

The case for matching a kitchen and utility

In an open-plan kitchen, or anywhere the utility door is left open as often as it is closed, the two rooms will be read as one whether you design for it or not. In these layouts, the case for matching is hard to argue with.

"A fully matched kitchen and utility creates seamless 'visual flow', which is especially valuable when the utility door is often left open," explains Julie Gokce, senior kitchen expert at MoreKitchens. When the two rooms share the same cabinetry, finishes and colour palette, the eye moves between them without interruption. "In smaller homes, this can also make the whole ground floor feel larger by removing the visual stops," she adds.

The benefits are not purely spatial either. "From a styling perspective, a cohesive look feels calmer and more luxurious, even if the utility is a messy zone," says Julie. "Buyers and estate agents also tend to read matching joinery as a sign of a well-planned kitchen renovation, which can add perceived value to a property."

The project shown above is a good example of how this works in practice. Sam Harris, senior design consultant at Ashford Kitchens and Interiors, describes how his team carried the same tone and feel across key surfaces in both rooms, while specifying finishes in the utility that were better suited to daily wear.

"The result is a design that feels cohesive overall, while allowing the utility to work harder as a separate, functional zone," he says. Matching the overall impression or aesthetic, rather than the materials, allows each room do its own job more effectively.

The case against matching a kitchen and utility

Many kitchen designers argue that the utility room's separation from the kitchen is not a problem to solve, but an opportunity to take.

"At deVOL, we find people tend to want their utility room to be slightly different to their kitchen, to give it its own personality," explains Helen Parker, creative director of deVOL Kitchens. "I think if a kitchen completely matches a utility, it is a missed opportunity to have a bit of fun with colour and design."

In practice, that might mean a change in cabinet colour, more open shelving in place of wall cupboards, or tongue and groove cladding on the walls – details that give the room a humbler, more workmanlike feel that suits what it is actually used for. "I don't think matching the rooms would make them any more functional," she adds.

There is a practical argument too, and it is a persuasive one. "A utility room gets genuine wear and tear – wet boots, detergent spills, hot tumble dryers," says Julie Gokce. "Specifying cheaper, tougher materials makes far more sense than duplicating expensive kitchen finishes. Budget goes further when you splurge in the kitchen and save in the utility."

And there's also a longer view to consider: "If you ever change your kitchen in five years, an unmatched utility is cheaper and less disruptive to update," she notes.

Charlotte Butler, kitchen design manager at BK Eleven, frames it most plainly. "The utility room has a different job to do. It might need more tall storage, more robust surfaces, space for laundry appliances, cleaning products, pet bowls or household overflow – and those practical needs should lead the design."

How to get the middle ground right

For most designers, the answer sits somewhere between a perfect match and a complete contrast. "There isn't a one-size-fits-all answer," says Sam Harris. "In many cases, the most successful approach is a balance between the two: keeping a consistent palette or key design details, while adjusting cabinetry, handles or worktops to better suit everyday use."

The key, says Holly Lamont, founder and creative director of Holla Design, is to treat the utility room as a continuation of the kitchen's design 'language' rather than a repetition of it. "Pull a colour from within the kitchen's palette – a grout tone, a hardware finish, a tile colour – and amplify it in the utility. By doing this, the contrast feels curated, not accidental."

And Jenna Forsdyke, senior interior designer at Pfeiffer Design, takes a similar view. "Rather than creating two identical spaces, allow each room to have its own personal touches, but combine them by carrying through a few key elements from the overall kitchen design. This will create a soft sense of continuation between the two rooms, allowing them to feel connected and considered."

Ways to get the balance right

The trick, according to designers, is to choose two or three visual threads to carry through both rooms rather than trying to match everything. Here are the approaches that work best:

• Match the colour but change the materials: Use the same paint colour or finish in both spaces, but specify more durable, moisture-resistant doors in the utility. This way, you keep the visual link without duplicating the kitchen costs or worrying about warping in a damp environment.
• Match the handles and taps, but nothing else: Keeping hardware identical across both spaces ties the rooms together even when the doors, finishes and floors are completely different. Handles can visually connect rooms even when everything else diverges.
• Try matching only the worktops: Running the same worktop surface through both rooms is surprisingly effective, because worktops are what the eye lands on at standing height. This lets you simplify the cabinetry in the utility without the two rooms feeling disconnected
• Avoid the near-match on flooring: If you cannot run the same flooring through both rooms, do not try to approximate it. "Unless you have exactly the same flooring product, a near-match will always draw unwanted attention for looking slightly off," warns Graeme Shelley, managing director at Factory Direct Flooring. If continuity is not possible, lean into contrast instead – a stone-effect floor in the utility that picks up on the tones of a wood-effect kitchen floor, for example, will always read better than an almost-identical version of the same thing.

Use this hardware to create continuity

If you're wondering where to spend and where to save on your new kitchen and utility, it's worth getting to grips with utility room costs before making any decisions about finishes or cabinetry. Knowing your budget will shape how far you can take the matching question in either direction.

A lot of home trends have originated from social media, but one of the best, in my opinion, is the 'loo with a view'. Instead of doomscrolling while you do your business, this concept involves placing a window opposite your toilet so you can take advantage of the landscape instead.

While this wouldn't personally work in my bathroom design (I don't fancy staring at a row of brick terraced houses), it would be a great way for some people to admire their hard-working garden or take in the city's skyline while on the throne.

So, what's causing this fascination with loos with a view, and how do you go about creating one in your home? And, even more importantly, how do you stop your neighbours from catching an eyeful as they walk past? I asked the experts to learn more.

How do you design a loo with a view?

Location and sanitaryware placement
In most cases, a loo with a view works best in loft conversion bathrooms, where you're less likely to be overlooked and can take advantage of the best sights up high.

When it comes to designing this space, architect Ryan Wenham recommends placing the bath in front of the window, with the toilet just behind it. This way, you can look straight over the tub at the view outside, allowing both features to take in the scenery.

"It's essential to consider where our sight lines and best viewpoints are and go from there. Practically speaking, you may need to consider pipes and drains, but these can usually be worked around in your spatial organisation," he says.

Window choice
Aside from deciding on the view itself, the type of glazing is the second biggest consideration. If privacy isn't an issue, Ryan recommends a large, single-pane window with minimal interruptions and a slim frame, even better if it "opens fully, so you can completely envelop yourself in fresh air and feel that you're outdoors."

However, if there's a chance your neighbours might catch a glimpse, you could opt for switchable privacy glass that turns frosted at the click of a button, or position the glass so that it sits only at seated eye level.

Why is the internet obsessed with this trend?

From London’s The Shard to Hong Kong’s The Ritz-Carlton, every top hotel features impressive bathrooms with floor-to-ceiling windows. With more people trying to replicate a luxurious look at home that captures attention online, there seems to be no better way to achieve it in a toilet than with this daring design approach.

"The appeal of a loo with a view is part of a broader shift in how people think about bathrooms. Rather than treating them as purely functional spaces tucked into the darkest corner of the house, many homeowners now see them as places for relaxation, wellness and connection with nature," says interior designer Francesca Leat.

"Social media is a huge driving force behind this bathroom trend, as many influencers and celebrities invite us into their homes, holidays and otherwise private lives including their bathrooms. Whether this trend is executable mostly depends on the property's nature."

While it may require a little extra planning when it comes to placement and privacy, we think the result is definitely worth it – but only if you're lucky enough to be surrounded by beautiful views.

Keen to give this toilet trend a go? Browse our collection of bathroom window ideas for a bit of inspiration or learn how to choose the right window style for this space.

If you've noticed an influx of ants in your garden, you're probably wondering what caused it and how to get rid of them pronto.

While these tiny creatures are virtually harmless (aside from the rare – and very mild – bite), no one wants a colony crawling across their outdoor table while they're trying to enjoy an al fresco dinner.

To get to the bottom of why ants are appearing in your garden and how to prevent them, we spoke with two pest control experts, who have shared their insights and top tips below (along with products that may help).

How do I get rid of ants in the garden?

1. Find out what's attracting them

Before you do anything, you'll need to work out what's attracting the ants in the first place, explains Daniel Steward, Managing Director of Shield Pest Control.

There are three main things that could be luring them in: food, water and shelter, so have a think about what that could look like in your garden. Do you leave your bins out? Do you have any spilled bird food on the floor? Is your outdoor tap leaking?

If you regularly eat your dinner outdoors (or your pets do), make sure you're cleaning the surfaces down afterwards, ensuring that no crumbs are left behind for the ants to snack on.

2. Keep plant areas free from food sources

As we previously mentioned, ants will be drawn to any food sources in your garden – whether that's a rotting apple fallen from a tree, a compost heap or spilled sugary drinks.

A clever tip for keeping ants out of your compost is by adding a little moisture to the food, as ants prefer it dry. You should also bury your kitchen scraps – particularly if they are sugary – and turn the pile regularly to deter nesting activity.

3. Manage moisture levels

Not only are dry environments better for ants to nest in, but they also help pheromone trails and scent marks remain stable. With that in mind, it's a good idea to keep your garden soil evenly moist, recommends Tony King, Owner of The Pied Piper.

While this isn't going to eliminate them completely, it can be a way of moving them from a particular area you don't want them in – say, the patio by your table.

4. Try a natural deterrent

You may want to consider using a natural deterrent in your garden, such as peppermint oil, to disrupt the ants' trails. Daniel Steward suggests applying it around patios, decking and seating areas, which may also put off rats.

Shopping picks to ant-proof your garden

How do you prevent ants in the garden?

Daniel Steward explains that the best way to prevent them in your garden is to make the environment as unattractive as possible when it comes to food, water and shelter supplies.

"Simple measures such as keeping bins tightly sealed, cleaning up food and drink spillages after outdoor gatherings, removing fallen fruit and covering compost bins can make a significant difference," he says.

"Make sure to seal cracks around walls, patios and garden structures where ants may establish nests. Prevention is always easier than dealing with an established colony."

We tend to notice ants more in the summer months when the colonies become active (and we are also outside).

When is Flying Ant Day?

Flying Ant Day isn’t on a specific date; it occurs between late June and mid-August and peaks in late July.

"The term 'Flying Ant Day' has been used colloquially to describe the large number of flying ants that appear during the summer months. Millions of these insects emerge from their respective nest areas to perform a mass mating ritual called a nuptial flight," explains Tony King.

"Both the weather conditions and time of day influence the emergence of the ants. They are most likely to emerge on warm, wet and wind-free days (usually late in July or early August) shortly after a short-term rain event."

While there are a number of ways to eliminate ants in your garden, it ultimately comes down to removing potential nesting spots, food and water sources. From September to February, they are less likely to be around.

For more expert-backed pest advice, read our guide on how to get rid of slugs in the garden and how to get rid of chafer grubs.

Looking for a quick and easy way to cover ugly fences or screen your garden this summer? It could be that bamboo fence roll is the solution you need, particularly as it's also one of the most cost-effective ways you can upgrade your garden for less.

Made from bamboo canes or reeds, it's also a more natural option than other products, meaning it can even boost your eco-credentials.

Suitable for use on fences, walls or even for adding shade to pergolas, here's everything you need to know about using bamboo rolls in your garden design.

Types of bamboo fence roll

When it comes to choosing the best type of bamboo roll for your garden project, not all bamboo roll is made equal, as Tom Douglas, senior gardening buyer at Cherry Lane Garden Centres explains.

“There are a few different types available. Whole bamboo cane rolls tend to have a more decorative, premium look and are generally more robust, while bamboo reed rolls are made from thinner pieces of bamboo and can be a more budget-friendly option," he says, "although they're typically less durable over time."

Choosing the right product means getting the right balance between aesthetics, practicality and how long you need it to last.

Shop for bamboo fence roll

Where and how to use bamboo roll in your garden

So where can you use bamboo fence roll in your garden? It's surprisingly versatile says Tom Douglas, and suitable in a number of different locations, not just on fences.

“Bamboo roll is a simple and effective way to add privacy to a patio or garden without having to invest in new fencing," explains Tom. "It's great for covering unattractive fences or walls, screening off compost, wheelie bins and utility areas, or even creating a more secluded outdoor space.

“It can also help add extra height to existing fences," he adds, "helping to reduce wind exposure and provide a bit of welcome shade during the warmer months.”

If you've also invested in a pergola without a roof, but find that the re-occurring heatwaves are making you question your decision, using bamboo across the top of your frame could be one way of adding the shade you need.

When it comes to installation, it's also a lot easier than digging the ground for new fence posts or more permanent structures.

“Installing bamboo roll is relatively straightforward," confirms Tom. "It can be attached to existing fences, walls or structures using galvanised staples, screws or specialist fence clips to keep it secure.”

Use these for fixing bamboo fence roll

Maintenance and lifespan

Unlike other types of fencing which can require regular painting or sanding and staining, bamboo fence rolls are also easy to look after.

“One of the biggest benefits is that it's very low maintenance," notes Tom Douglas. "Aside from occasionally brushing away dirt and debris, or giving it a gentle wash with water and a soft brush, there's not a great deal you need to do to keep it looking its best.”

But, will it last? Unlike other more solid fence panels such as composite fencing, as it's made of a natural material, you might not get as many years out of the product as you'd hoped. Although having lived in Asia and seen bamboo canes used as scaffolding, I'd certainly suggest that it may be stronger than you think.

“Lifespan really depends on the conditions it's exposed to," notes Tom. "Factors such as strong sunlight, heavy rain and high winds will all affect its lifespan, so a sheltered position will generally help it stay in good condition for longer.”

FAQs

Is planting bamboo a better option than bamboo fence roll?

Although you may prefer the more leafy, natural appearance of bamboo plants, it's recommended you proceed with caution when choosing and planting it in your garden. Choose the wrong type and you could end up with invasive bamboo problems.

Always opt for a non-invasive variety, recommends head of horticulture at B&Q, Mark Sage.

"There are several clumping bamboos available in the UK, but for me, Fargesia rufa really stands out as the most reliable and hardy option for our climate. It’s the one I’d confidently recommend to most gardeners.

"There are other types, such as Bambusa and Chusquea," he adds, "but they tend to be less hardy in UK conditions or simply not as widely available. For most gardens – especially in more built-up areas – Fargesia rufa offers a really practical solution: you still get that lush, evergreen privacy and structure, but without the worry of it taking over."

You can find Fargesia rufa on sale at B&Q.

If sustainable gardening is at the core of your garden ideas, as well as using bamboo roll for a more natural finish, take a look at these ways to re-use brick in your garden, and discover what else to include in your eco-friendly garden design.

If you've been searching for a smarter way to dry your clothes, a laundry maid might be the answer you didn't know you were looking for. Once a staple of Victorian homes, this classic ceiling-hung airer is making a well-deserved comeback.

With energy bills showing no sign of retreating and tumble dryers eating through electricity, more and more homeowners are rediscovering the simple genius of air-drying clothes up high. But while adding a laundry maid to a utility room sounds straightforward enough, its placement matters more than you might think.

Here's everything you need to know about where – and where not – to put a laundry maid in your utility room.

What is a laundry maid?

A laundry maid – sometimes called a ceiling airer, pulley maid or clothes maiden – is a wooden or metal rack suspended from the ceiling on a pulley system. The mechanism allows you to lower it to hanging height to load it with freshly washed clothes, then raise it back up towards the ceiling where warm air circulates and dries everything naturally. A cleat on the wall holds the rope in place, keeping the airer safely raised until you need it again.

The design has been around since the late 18th century, when it was a practical fixture in the sculleries and wash houses of working homes across Britain. It fell out of fashion when tumble dryers became a household staple, but as energy costs have climbed, the laundry maid has staged a comeback in utility room design.

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Where to put a laundry maid in a utility room

Placement is everything with a laundry maid. Even the best-quality airer will frustrate you if it's hung in the wrong spot, so it's worth thinking carefully before you commit to drilling into the ceiling joists.

Place it above your utility room sink

As the beautiful utility room above shows, positioning a laundry maid directly above the sink can work wonderfully, as the sink below is perfectly placed for hand-washing and rinsing items before placing them straight onto the airer above. It's a particularly elegant solution in a room with good ceiling height and a deep butler's sink.

That said, it's worth proceeding with care. As Josie Medved, Design Manager at Symphony Group, advises. "Make sure there is enough space between the worktop and the bottom of anything you position on the wall or ceiling above your sink – it might be best to leave some clear space, to avoid any awkward overhead obstructions."

Hang it above or near the washing machine

The other most logical position is directly above or close to your washing machine. It keeps the wet end of the room neatly contained and creates a natural workflow, as clothes come out of the drum and go straight up to dry, without trailing wet laundry across the floor. If your washing machine and tumble dryer sit side by side, positioning the laundry maid above both means you can also make a quick decision about which gets used for each load.

Use the warmest part of the room

Heat rises, which is the whole principle a laundry maid works on. Think carefully about your utility room heating when deciding where to position it, whether that's a boiler or simply passive warmth from an adjoining kitchen. Clothes will dry significantly faster when the air around them is warm, so even a degree or two of difference can speed things up noticeably. It's no coincidence that one of the most popular spots for a laundry maid in older homes is above or near an Aga, as that gentle, constant heat is ideal.

Think about the layout around it

A laundry maid works hardest when the rest of the room is planned around it, and that starts with ceiling height. You want the airer to sit at least two metres from the floor when raised, so there's no risk of anyone walking into damp laundry. Standard ceiling height in most UK homes is around 2.4 metres, which is workable, but measure carefully before buying, as the pulley fixings and rope take up a few extra centimetres too.

At deVOL Kitchens, creative director, Helen Parker, pairs it with shelving to create a utility room that feels as good as it functions.

"We like a laundry maid up on the ceiling for drying clothes, first and foremost. This soft approach has a country feel and is actually very practical too. We usually fit shelves for wash baskets, ironing, and folded clothes. This design choice makes the room feel well used and functional and gives a pleasant, chore-like aesthetic to the space, making it feel distinctly different from the main kitchen."

Where not to put a laundry maid in a utility room

Knowing where to avoid is just as important as knowing where to install. A few common mistakes are worth flagging before you commit to placement:

Avoid placing it directly above clean laundry

Wet clothes have a tendency to drip, so positioning a laundry maid above open shelves storing folded clothes, cleaning products or anything absorbent is asking for trouble over time. It's not necessarily a reason to rule out the spot altogether, but if utility room shelving sits below where your airer will hang, closed cabinetry is a much safer choice than open storage.

Stay clear of extractor fans or cold draughts

It might seem counterintuitive, but cold air is the enemy of a laundry maid. Extractor fans pull air out of the room rather than circulating warmth, and positioning your airer beneath one – or near a window that's regularly left open – will slow the drying process considerably. You want still, warm air gathering around the clothes, not a cold draught rushing past them.

Don't stray too far from the washing machine

It sounds obvious, but it's easy to overlook in the planning stage. If the only viable ceiling joist is at the opposite end of the room from your appliances, you'll quickly tire of lugging heavy, wet laundry across the space. Convenience is key to making a laundry maid a habit rather than a hassle.

What are the alternatives to a laundry maid?

Not every utility room can accommodate a laundry maid. Whether it's a ceiling height issue, a lack of suitable joists, or simply a preference, here are the strongest alternatives.

A freestanding drying rack

The simplest solution of all is arguably a good-quality freestanding airer. These solutions can hold a full load of laundry, be moved wherever it's needed, and tucked away again when not in use.

A wall-mounted drying rack

Where ceiling height is limited but wall space isn't, a wall-mounted rack is a neat compromise. It folds flat when not in use and extends when you need it, plus there's no major installation required.

A heated airer

A heated airer uses significantly less electricity than a tumble dryer and can dry a full load overnight. Freestanding and requiring no installation, the only trade-off is the floor space it takes up in a small utility room. However, heated dryers are firm favourites amongst our editors, along with using a dehumidifier to help dry laundry.

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An organised utility room is one where laundry has a proper place at every stage of the process. The right setup makes it easy to hide laundry when needed, and just as easy to access it when the time comes.

Some areas of the garden are best hidden away and that's why the best screening plants can be very useful. A row of bins, that messy corner where broken pots and bags of compost accumulate or maybe the neighbour's ugly fence, are just some of the features that might be better covered up with a living wall of green.

Clever use of garden screening ideas can also create privacy in an overlooked space. Another benefit is that they add interest to a small plot when they can be used to create interconnected spaces. A bland square or plain rectangular space could be divided by a row of grasses. A trellis fence makes an inexpensive feature when it is situated halfway across the garden and smothered with roses or clematis. This partial screening creates an inviting glimpse into the area beyond, tricking the eye into thinking that the garden is larger than it really is.

The plant you choose depends on the reason for the screen. A semi-transparent row of planting might work in some spaces to break up a harsh boundary, but complete concealment might be preferable if you're looking to cover up an unattractive fence, for example. Our advice will help you find the best solution for your space.

1. Star Jasmine 

Evergreen foliage means that this pretty shrub, trachelospermum jasminoides, is a great choice for screening any trellis that is in part shade. "It is vigorous, with dense, even coverage," say the experts at Squires Garden Centres.

The starry clusters of flowers smell sweet on hot summer nights, and in winter, the leaves will turn bronze, but they won’t drop.

Star jasmine is a twining climber, which grows about 10-20cm a year, so it will add steady coverage, but won’t run riot. Plant in the ground or in a container and it’s perfect to provide seclusion near outdoor seating on a patio, which means you can take full advantage of its glorious fragrance.

Container-grown jasmine needs a large pot and frequent watering to keep the soil moist. In late winter or early spring, add fertiliser and mulch with compost.

2. Golden Hop

If you need fast-growing summer screening, then Humulus lupulus ‘Aureus,’ or Golden Hop (available from Thompson & Morgan), is a good choice for a climbing fence plant. It’s a perennial twining climber, with zingy yellow-green foliage and trumpet-shaped flowers in summer.

Grow it up and over your pergola ideas, or up a large fence or wall and it will reach as tall as 6m in one season. For this reason, make sure that your space is not too small, or it could be overwhelming.

Grow in full sun and cut back in late winter or early spring for strong, fresh growth.

3. Bamboo

The experts at Squires recommend Phyllostachys Aurea, or golden bamboo, as one of their top screening plants, explaining that: "it has a wonderfully vibrant golden stem with evergreen foliage. At first the stems start green, then they mature to a bright golden yellow."

It grows quickly and has a contemporary look, so it's a top choice if you're a fan of modern garden ideas and need something that offers fast coverage. In fact, it is so enthusiastic that it may need containing if planted in the ground. This bamboo can top 7m and spread 4m after 10 years of growth. To be on the safe side, you may prefer to plant it in a container to help restrict its growth and prevent your bamboo becoming invasive.

Plant in full sun or partial shade in moist but well-drained soil. Keep watering during the growing season, as bamboos are thirsty plants.

4. Honeysuckle 

Honeysuckle is a wonderful way to screen off a less-than-lovely garden shed, or it could be used to soften a harsh new garden fence or trained up a trellis to create some much needed garden privacy.

Many honeysuckles are semi-evergreen, which means they will lose some of their leaves in winter, but they do retain a partial screening effect. They grow between two to three metres in a year and flower from summer to autumn.

These are easy-care plants, which thrive in light shade. Cut back the flowered stems by a third in late summer, and then tidy up again in late winter. Try ‘American Beauty’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) a hardy, semi-evergreen, for its gold and rose scented flowers and fast-growing habit (ultimate height is 5m).

5. Cherry Laurel (Prunus Novita)

Another of the best screening plants, as recommended by the expert team at Squires, is a new variety of the popular evergreen Cherry Laurel. It’s a good one for people who live in areas with harsher winters as it is resistant to cold weather.

"It has lovely, glossy, mid-green ovate leaves, and is a staple screening plant in many gardens," say the experts. It is easy to maintain with a light prune or a trim to keep its shape.

Give the shrub a nitrogen-based feed in the growing season to keep it looking fresh, and plant it in free draining but moist soil. After 10 years, the ultimate height will be 4m and the spread is 4m.

6. Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’

Tall and upstanding, this type of ornamental grass can be planted en masse in garden borders to form a feathery screen, or lined up in pots in groups. The green shoots appear in early spring, followed by plume-like flowers which are green, fading to buff/blonde.

It is very easy to grow, it just needs cutting down to the ground in February. Don’t cut it any earlier, as the screening effect will last over winter, and it looks very pretty when the fronds are dusted with white frost. Grows to a height of around 2m if it’s kept well-watered. Plant in a large pot in full sun or partial shade.

7. Pennisetum 

It’s also known as Chinese Fountain Grass, which is apt, because it has arching plumes, like a spray of water, with feathery flowers on top. The height and spread is 1.5m, which makes this a good plant to frame a seating area as part of your patio planting plan. It likes full sun and a sheltered spot.

8. Miscanthus 

This is an easy grass to grow as it tolerates most soils (although it prefers full sun). It has exuberant fountains of foliage in early summer, and the colour changes subtly through the seasons, bleaching to a pretty blonde in winter.

For a taller plant, try miscanthus sinensis ‘Undine’ which grows to 2.5m, or for a smaller choice, miscanthus sinensis ‘Kleine silberspinne’ which reaches about 1.5m.

9. Verbena bonariensis 

If you're after partial screening rather than full coverage, this upright perennial has skinny, criss-crossing stems and tiny purple flowers which are loved by bees and butterflies. The slim, elegant stalks create a lattice effect. They grow up to 2m tall and can be planted in a row where they will rocket away and become a beautiful veil in just one season (returning the next year).

You can either grow flowers from seed or invest in some small plants from the nursery or garden centre. They will tolerate poor soil and dryer conditions.

10. Lavender

If you pick a tall variety of lavender and plant it as a hedge in a raised garden bed, it will create a see-through wall of scent and colour. Try Lavandula x intermedia ‘Hidcote Giant’ or Lavandula Intermedia 'Grosso’ both of which can top 1m in height. The flowers have lovely long, robust stems. Plant them about 30cm apart.

Lavender is excellent for growing in drought or dry conditions, as it just needs watering regularly until it gets established. Trim the spent flowers back every summer so the bush can put on a bit of growth before winter.

11. Clematis

If you're after one of the best climbing plants for pergolas, a clematis should be high on your list. A shady roof clad with big, beautiful flowers and thick foliage is exactly what you get if you plant a Group 3 climbing clematis. It needs a little help to achieve full thickness, so give it a trim in early spring and keep tying in the sides to create density.

Plant a couple of clematis on either side of the pergola and they will climb up and over the structure creating a perfect sense of seclusion. Try ‘Ernest Markham’ or ‘Mary Rose.’

12. Rambling rose

A rambling rose is one of the best types of roses to cover a garden wall, fence or a shed. It has small flowers in large sprays creating a mass of colour. Rambling roses only produce only one flush of flowers a year lasting a couple of weeks, usually in early summer, and they will lose their leaves in winter.

There are so many varieties to choose from. A very tall one, reaching 7.5m is ‘Belvedere,’ which has small, pale pink flowers and a pretty scent.

FAQs

How can you use screening plants to create privacy in a garden? 

Privacy in overlooked gardens can be achieved by introducing wood or metal arbours, a pergola or even some simple garden arches where screening plants can scramble thickly overhead. These features are readily available online or at garden centres. Then it’s just a matter of choosing a fast growing screening plant to grow over them and you could be looking at some much-needed seclusion in just one to two years.

What are the fastest growing screening plants? 

Bamboo, honeysuckle and Golden Hop are all good choices for fast-growing screening plants. Certain types of clematis (marked Group 3 on the plant label) will cover a trellis or pergola in quick time too if you cut the ends back in early spring to encourage thicker growth.

Some of the best screening plants can be fast growers, but they may also become invasive, so before you choose which plants are suitable for your space, check the ultimate height and spread and make sure it is right for your plot.

If your aim is to create some effective privacy fence ideas and you're therefore planting near a boundary with a neighbour, avoid going for very large plants which could cause problems with invasive roots. These can block drains and soakaways, so it’s worth taking the time to ensure that your plants will not cause a dispute with anyone living next door to you.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Many self-builders and property developers view a corner plot as the ultimate residential prize. On the face of it, these sites offer lots of space, prominent kerb appeal, and nice wraparound gardens that seem to cry out for development.

Whether you are looking to build a brand-new detached home in the side garden of an existing property, or simply planning a significant extension to your current home, a corner position feels inherently generous.

However, in my day-to-day work as a planning consultant, I frequently find myself delivering a sobering reality check to optimistic landowners. Corner plots are amongst the most deceptively complex and heavily restricted site typologies in terms of getting planning permission. Far from offering double the opportunity, they often attract double the regulatory scrutiny. Understanding the hidden statutory mechanisms that govern these exposed parcels of land is essential if you want to unlock their genuine development potential without falling foul of planning policies.

What defines a corner plot?

To understand why these sites are treated with such caution by local authorities, one must first look at what constitutes a corner plot in strict planning terms. Quite simply, a corner plot is a parcel of land that shares a boundary with two public highways.

It is a common misconception that a highway must be a busy tarmac road filled with vehicular traffic. In UK planning law, the term highway encompasses a vast array of public rights of way, including quiet residential cul-de-sacs, narrow country lanes, public footpaths, and even designated bridleways.

When a property is situated at the junction of two such highways, it loses the protective shielding that standard linear plots enjoy. Instead of having a single public frontage and three private boundaries shared with quiet neighbours, a corner plot is exposed to the public realm on multiple sides.

This dual frontage fundamentally alters how planning policy applies to the site, transforming routine development proposals into complex exercises in spatial negotiation.

Corner plots and the planning implications

1. Loss of permitted development rights

The most immediate casualty of a corner plot location is the homeowner’s permitted development rights. The General Permitted Development Order is designed to give householders the freedom to carry out minor extensions, build porches, or erect outbuildings like garages and garden offices without the need for a full planning application.

However, this legislative freedom is heavily curtailed when a property sits on a corner. The legislation explicitly states that development is not permitted if it extends beyond a wall which forms the principal elevation, or faces a highway and forms a side elevation of the original dwelling house.

On a standard plot, the rear and side gardens are usually considered private domains where substantial extensions can be built under permitted development. On a corner plot, because the side garden faces a flanking highway, it is legally treated with the same aesthetic strictness as a front garden.

What this means in real terms

I recently acted for a client who purchased a lovely detached house on a suburban corner plot with the intention of building a large, detached double garage in what they perceived to be their spacious side garden.

They assumed this would fall within their permitted development rights as an incidental outbuilding. However, because that side garden bounded a public road, the proposed garage was technically located in front of an elevation that faced a highway.

Consequently, their permitted development rights were entirely invalidated for this project, forcing them to apply for full planning permission. Had they proceeded without professional advice, they would have faced costly enforcement action.

This restriction applies equally to porches, single-storey side extensions, and even high boundary fences, meaning almost any visible alteration on a corner plot will require the explicit blessing of the local planning authority.

2. The Highways Authority will be heavily involved in the process

Beyond the architectural constraints, the physical reality of managing access on a corner plot introduces a entirely new layer of bureaucracy in the form of the Highways Authority.

When a full planning application is submitted for a corner site, the Highways Authority acts as a statutory consultee, and their power to block or heavily modify a proposal should never be underestimated.

Their primary mandate is to ensure that any new development does not compromise road safety or impede the smooth flow of traffic, and junctions are inherently high-risk zones.

The most critical tool in the highway engineer’s arsenal is the visibility splay, which is the unobstructed line of sight that a driver requires when pulling out of a driveway or approaching a junction. A visibility splay is calculated using precise mathematical formulas based on the speed of traffic on the road, requiring a clear sightline across a specific horizontal and vertical plane.

If your corner plot sits directly on a bend or a road junction, a significant portion of your land may fall within this mandatory visibility splay. This means you will be legally barred from erecting any building, parking a vehicle, or even planting a hedge or building a boundary wall that exceeds one metre in height within that designated zone.

This can severely diminish the developable footprint of the site. Furthermore, local authorities enforce strict rules regarding the allowed length and width of driveways on these plots.

A driveway must typically be a minimum of five and a half metres deep to ensure that a standard family car can be parked entirely clear of the public pavement, preventing dangerous overhangs. It must also be wide enough to allow passengers to safely enter and exit the vehicle without stepping into the path of oncoming traffic at a junction.

Securing a new dropped kerb or vehicular access point close to an intersection is notoriously difficult, and the Highways Authority will routinely refuse applications if they feel a new driveway is positioned too close to the point where two roads meet.

3. There will be extra scrutiny regarding the aesthetics

Should you successfully navigate the highways hurdles, your design will then face intense aesthetic scrutiny from the local planning officers. Planners are deeply protective of the street scene, which refers to the collective visual character of a road.

Because a corner plot is highly visible from multiple angles, any building erected upon it acts as a visual anchor for both intersecting streets. A standard, off-the-shelf house design rarely works on a corner because it is typically designed to be viewed only from the front, leaving the side elevations often as blank or uninspiring expanses of brickwork.

Local planning authorities loathe blank gables facing the public realm, as they deaden the street scene and harm the architectural character of the neighbourhood. Instead, planners look for highly considered, bespoke designs that respect and connect with the local architectural vernacular.

When drafting proposals for corner developments, the ultimate objective is to demonstrate that the new structure will not cause material harm to the surrounding area or to the amenity of neighbouring properties.

This means the design must carefully balance the need to establish a strong presence on the corner with the necessity of protecting the privacy and light of adjacent homes.

For instance, a two-storey extension on a corner plot can easily overshadow a neighbour's garden or result in direct overlooking from side windows. To combat this, a successful design must utilise a dual-aspect approach, where both elevations facing the highways are treated with equal architectural importance.

This involves incorporating wrap-around windows, feature brickwork, or carefully positioned projections that break up the massing of the building, ensuring it contributes positively to the street scene rather than appearing as an intrusive, bulky mass.

How to get your corner plot application approved

Given these multi-layered challenges, rigorous due diligence is absolutely essential before you commit to purchasing a corner plot or investing heavily in architectural drawings.

One of the most overlooked aspects of developing an undeveloped corner site is the complexity of service connections. While it may appear that mains electricity, gas, water, and public sewers are within easy reach because they run beneath the adjacent roads, connecting to them can be expensive.

Obtaining the necessary licences to dig up a public highway, particularly near a busy junction, requires extensive coordination with utility companies and local councils, often running into tens of thousands of pounds.

Your due diligence must also extend to a thorough investigation of the site’s legal and planning history. It is vital to check for restrictive covenants within the property deeds, as these are private legal agreements that operate entirely independently of the planning system.

It is not uncommon for historic deeds to contain covenants that strictly prohibit the construction of more than one dwelling on the land, or mandate that a specific building line must be maintained.

Even if the local council grants you planning permission, a neighbour could still use a restrictive covenant to halt your project in the civil courts. Similarly, examining the planning register for past applications on the site is crucial.

If previous owners have attempted to secure permission for a dwelling and been refused, the reasons listed in the officer’s report will provide invaluable intelligence regarding the council’s appetite for development on that specific corner now.

The importance of hiring a professional

This is precisely where the expertise of a professional planning consultant becomes invaluable. Navigating the overlapping issues of permitted development, local plan policies, and highways regulations requires a deep understanding of statutory frameworks and planning law.

A consultant acts as a vital bridge between your architectural ambitions and the strict demands of the local authority. By conducting a comprehensive feasibility study at the earliest stage of a project, a consultant can identify the exact boundaries of visibility splays, assess local driveway policies, and establish a clear strategy for engagement with the council.

Crucially, a planning consultant knows how to present a robust, evidence-based argument to planning officers, demonstrating how a bespoke design successfully avoids causing harm to the street scene or neighbouring amenities, thereby unlocking the true financial and spatial value of a complex site.

Make sure your architectural design is appropriate

When it comes to the actual design of a home on a corner plot, the key to success lies in celebrating the corner rather than trying to hide from it. Rather than viewing the dual frontage as a restriction, the best projects embrace it as an opportunity to create a standout piece of architecture.

Designing a home with a curved or angled corner feature can elegantly bridge the transition between two differing street scenes. Incorporating prominent, high-quality materials on both visible facades ensures the building feels cohesive and deliberate.

Furthermore, clever landscaping ideas can resolve the age-old corner plot dilemma of balancing privacy with highway safety. By utilising lower, high-quality stone or brick boundary walls supplemented by soft, set-back hedging, you can create a private, secure garden oasis for your family while fully preserving the mandatory visibility splays required by the highways engineers.

With the right combination of professional planning guidance and thoughtful, dual-aspect design, a challenging corner plot can ultimately be transformed into a landmark home that enhances both the neighbourhood and your life.

However, when purchasing any plot, make sure you fully understand the essential questions to ask, and the plot-buying mistakes to avoid before you sign on the dotted line.

If a new driveway or patio is on the cards this year, you may be wondering what jointing material is best and whether polymeric sand is a strong contender.

While it’s not the cheapest option on the market, costing around £15–£30 per bag, it is more affordable than bound jointing systems such as resin and epoxy, and can offer better drainage.

To learn more about polymeric sand, including what it is, how it’s used for driveway ideas, and how it stacks up against other popular materials, keep reading – we spoke with two experts to find out.

What is polymeric sand and what do you use it for?

According to Andy McLaughlin of RF Paving, polymeric sand is a blend of fine-grade sand mixed with polymer binders that hardens when water is applied.

Many people use it to fill the joints in block paving, concrete paving, and natural stone paving, and although it is most commonly found on driveway materials, it can also be applied to patios, walkways and garden paths.

While it is more expensive than kiln-dried sand or basic paver joint sand, it can be a budget-friendly alternative to premium jointing materials such as epoxy and resin.

How do you apply polymeric sand?

If you like the sound of polymeric sand and fancy giving it a go, you’ll be pleased to hear that it is relatively easy to install.

Andy McLaughlin explains that you will need to pour the sand onto your paving and sweep it into the joints using a soft brush. Once the excess has been removed, spray a fine mist of water, which will activate the chemical process, causing it to harden and cure.

A word of warning: you’ll want to ensure that the excess has been completely removed before you apply the water; otherwise, you’ll be left with stained pavers. The surface should also be completely dry to prevent the mixture from setting prematurely and appearing uneven.

What you will need

What are the pros and cons of polymeric sand?

Before you commit to installing polymeric sand, it’s worth weighing up the pros and cons, as Andy McLaughlin explains below:

Pros

• Helps to prevent weed growth within the joints
• Clean appearance
• Isn't washed away as easily as kiln-dried sand
• Good joint stability
• You can buy permeable-grade options (meaning it complies with surface water drainage regulations)
• Cheaper than bound jointing systems

Cons

• Not a weed-free solution
• Can crack over time
• More expensive than kiln-dried sand

How long will polymeric sand last?

While the answer to this question depends on the base, climate and traffic, Luke Clarke, owner of Britannia Stone, says that on a good base in a mild climate, polymeric sand can last around eight to ten years before needing to be redone. However, if there are harsh winters and heavy use, you could be looking at redoing it every three to five years.

"It breaks down over time with frost, rain and general wear, so you do have to maintain it. It isn't an every-year job, but you want to look over the joints once or twice a year and top up anywhere that's gone. It's worth resealing the surface every few years to keep the sand protected," he adds.

After speaking with the experts, it is clear that polymeric sand is a strong choice for jointing, thanks to its affordable price, ease of installation and durability.

If you want a little bit of inspiration, browse through our selection of modern driveway ideas or read our practical guide on how to design a patio.

Don’t get me wrong, I love my Victorian house, but perfecting the layout in what is a long and narrow building has been a challenge. I’m finally in a position to add our kitchen extension and renovate our bedrooms. And for what feels like forever I’ve been puzzling over one particular question: where should the utility room go?

Would it eat into the kitchen? Could I squeeze it under the stairs? Should I sacrifice a chunk of our shiny new garden-adjacent entertaining space? In the end, I decided to ignore all those options entirely and put the utility room upstairs.

Controversial? Maybe, but it makes a lot of sense in my book. These are the main reasons why I’ve come to this decision, and I’ve also asked a few experts to weigh in on whether I’m doing the right thing.

1. Doesn't it make sense to wash clothes close to where they're stored?

When you really think about it, the majority of laundry is generated upstairs. Clothes are taken off before you shower, towels are used in bathrooms, sheets and pillowcases are stripped from beds. So why carry everything downstairs dirty, only to bring back up again clean? Sure, you might want to line-dry some items – particularly towels and bedding for the whiteness and hygiene that UV brings. But, on wet days when you're reliant on a tumble dryer, it really does seem like a waste of time.

“Positioning the utility room next to the bathroom removes that unnecessary circulation around the house and creates a much more intuitive and streamlined daily routine,” agrees Charlotte Tilby, head of marketing at Calypso and LochAnna Kitchens.

“It also futureproofs the home to a degree. Carrying heavy washing baskets up and down stairs multiple times a week isn’t especially practical long term, especially if you're beginning to struggle with motility, and modern house renovations increasingly prioritise ease of day-to-day living.”

2. It leaves me with more space in my kitchen

Designing a kitchen isn't easy at the best of times. And nowadays, there seem to be more gadgets to add to the mix. Wine coolers, American-style fridge freezers, air fryers, bean-to-cup coffee machines – how are we meant to find space for it all?

By ditching the laundry appliances, that's how. "Kitchens today have become far more than purely functional cooking spaces," says Charlotte Tilby. "They’re entertaining areas; family hubs. Because of that, there is a growing desire for kitchens to feel calmer and less dominated by bulky household appliances.

"In many UK properties, washing machines and tumble dryers are still fitted beneath kitchen worktops, but that can compromise storage, add noise, and bring a very practical task into a room that is often designed for cooking, gathering and hosting," adds Charlotte Butler, kitchen design manager at BK Eleven. "Moving those appliances upstairs gives the kitchen more breathing room, while allowing the utility area to be planned properly around laundry, linen and household storage."

"It also removes a layer of visual clutter that can make kitchens feel overly practical rather than sociable," she adds.

“Integrated laundry appliances can seem like a convenience within a kitchen, but in practice they often interrupt functional parts of daily life like cooking, dining and entertaining," agrees Rikki Fothergill, bathroom design expert at Big Bathroom Shop.

"Keeping laundry rooms upstairs is the perfect way of avoiding visible laundry and the demands of chores from taking over free time. Like in many Mediterranean homes, siting utility areas closer to bathrooms helps create a quieter, more considered layout where practical tasks can happen discreetly in the background of everyday life,” adds Rikki.

3. It keeps noisy appliances away from entertaining areas

There's nothing guaranteed to ruin a Zoom meeting, cinema night or romantic dinner for two like a spin cycle. So if you spend most of your day working, eating and relaxing downstairs, it makes a lot of sense to keep laundry appliances as far away as possible. And where better than upstairs?

"Washing machines and tumble dryers are inherently noisy appliances, and in open-plan homes especially, they can interrupt conversations, hosting or simply the atmosphere of a calm evening at home," says Charlotte Tilby.

"Relocating those appliances upstairs removes that background noise from the kitchen and main entertaining areas entirely. It helps preserve a quieter, more relaxed environment downstairs, while creating a clearer distinction between areas of the home for household chores and spaces intended for socialising or unwinding."

Naturally, you're not going to run your appliances at night while you're sleeping next to them (and it pays to leave them off for safety reasons too), so it might pose a slight issue if you have previously taken advantage of cheap nighttime tariffs. Similarly, if you have young children or work shifts, it might not be so practical. But for my lifestyle, it's the perfect fit.

4. The plumbing is already close at hand

Trying to find a space for a utility downstairs can be further complicated by your plumbing set up. It's all well and good if your kitchen is right next door. But otherwise, you may have limitations.

"Putting a utility area within or next to a bathroom is probably the most space efficient option because you're already in the wet zone and you're usually closest to the soil stack and existing hot and cold supplies," explains Matthew Powell, plumbing expert and founder of WarmZilla.

"That means shorter pipe runs for both water and waste, fewer floor or ceiling penetrations, and less chance of slow drains because the route can be simple and direct."

"Placing the utility next to the bathroom rather than inside it might give you a better day to day result," he says. "You can still stay close to the soil stack and water supplies, but the room is drier, easier to service, and simpler for electrics and storage. It also gives you more control over noise by using a solid door, lining, and anti-vibration measures without compromising the bathroom experience."

In this scenario, Matthew recommends siting the separate utility back to back with the bathroom so they share a wet wall. "Keeping the soil stack, wastes, and hot and cold feeds on one side of the wall reduces complexity and makes faults easier to find," he says.

"Design a shallow service void so pipes can run straight with gentle bends and so you can add access hatches where traps and valves sit," Matthew adds. "It also pays to place appliances so the waste route is short and direct to the stack connection rather than taking a long scenic route around the room."

5. If it's good enough for the Europeans

I've happily holidayed in Spain, Italy, Croatia and Greece for decades. And in many cases, I've noticed laundry facilities either within or next to bathrooms on the first floor. In fact, in most of these countries, having a washing machine in a kitchen is something of a rarity.

And I'm not the only one to notice. "In Mediterranean homes this type of setup is really common where kitchens are 100% focussed on preparing food," London- and Majorca-based interior designer Clare Morton tells me. "Cooking is a very separate job to laundry in the med!"

"In the UK, we’ve grown up with washing machines in kitchens but thinking differently can elevate the home! In my own property, I put a utility next to the master bathroom – it sits naturally close to the bedrooms, which makes laundry much easier to process, organise and put away day-to-day," she reveals. "Next to the bathroom is perfect as the plumbing set up is easy to access for the washing machine."

And Clare's top design tip? "I would also design the utility so it feels elevated and integrated rather than too “spare room”. Household chores are more fun in a nice environment!"

If your home is crying out for a separate laundry space – whether you choose to locate it upstairs or on the ground floor, make sure you avoid these utility room mistakes, and get an idea of utility room costs with our guide to budgeting.

Did you know you can change the colour of hydrangeas? Well, at least when it comes to mophead and lacecap cultivars of Hydrangea macrophylla, Hydrangea involucrata, and Hydrangea serrata. Maybe you want to try a new look for your shrubs. Or, perhaps you've noticed your once-blue bloomer turning pink unexpectedly and want to get it back to its former hue. Either way, the process is quite straightforward once you know how.

These plants are one of our favourite flowering shrubs for adding structure and vibrancy to a plot. What's more, learning how to grow hydrangeas is easy, so they're ideal for novice and experienced gardeners alike.

And they're not just for borders – you can plant them in containers too. In fact, changing the colour of hydrangeas in containers is easier than those planted straight into the ground as you have more control over the soil. We explain everything you need to know in this simple guide.

How the soil pH impacts the colour of your hydrangeas

Hydrangeas with blue or pink flowers tend to be blue in acid soil conditions, mauve in acid to neutral soil conditions, and pink in alkaline conditions.

This means that by changing the pH of the soil, you can achieve different hydrangea colours to complement your garden colour scheme. Bear in mind that the colour change won't happen overnight, however – it is an ongoing process.

How do you make your hydrangea blue?

Whether growing hydrangeas in pots or in the ground, you can maintain blue-hued blooms by acidifying the soil.

Try mulching with organic matter – apart from mushroom compost, which is more alkaline. Using ericaceous compost, such as this John Innes compost from Amazon, also tends to be effective.

You can also buy "blueing" compounds from garden centres and online, which should be applied according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Some gardeners also say adding coffee grounds to the soil can help, or working bits of rusty metal into the feeding-root area can be another option to try.

John Negus, a gardening expert and writer for Amateur Gardening, also recommends using rainwater to water hydrangeas to help keep them blue. You can collect it in a water butt – which is also a good approach if you want a more eco-friendly garden.

How do you make your hydrangea pink?

Hydrangeas in neutral or chalky (alkaline) soils generally produce pink or mauve, slightly muddy-colored blooms. "Pink blooms are caused by a relatively high pH, of around 7.5–8," says John Negus.

The best way to do this is to add garden lime, such as this Westland Garden Lime Soil Conditioner from Amazon, to the soil. Follow the instructions on the pack of your chosen product, but doing it every couple of weeks during the growing season should be effective.

Adding wood ash to the soil around your hydrangeas can also help to increase its alkalinity – a useful tip for those who have invested in a fire pit for their garden.

Can you change the colour of white hydrangeas?

Hydrangeas with green or white flowers are increasingly popular nowadays, working well in both modern and romantic, cottage-garden schemes. But, unlike the blue and pink varieties, these types can not have their colour changed as they are unaffected by soil pH.

Some will, however, turn slightly pink as they age, says John Negus.

FAQs

Why are some of my hydrangea's flowers blue and some pink?

It is quite unusual to have hydrangeas that have both pink and blue blooms, but it can happen. The reason behind this is generally because there are pockets of acidity within the plant's root area.

To have more control over the soil, you may want to try planting your hydrangea in large garden planters instead.

As previously highlighted, changing the colour of your hydrangeas will be easier if you are growing them in pots as you can have more control of the soil pH due to your choice of potting compost.

Another benefit to growing them in pots is that if you have issues with your hydrangea not blooming you can easily move it to another spot to see if different growing conditions helps it to bloom once more.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

The wellness industry is booming, so it’s no surprise that biodynamic lighting is the concept everyone is talking about right now.

Designed to replicate the natural timing of sunlight to complement our circadian rhythm (more on what that means later), it has been said to boost productivity, encourage restorative sleep, and even improve mood.

If you like the sound of those benefits and fancy giving it a go in your own home, we spoke with interior design experts to learn more – and how to replicate this lighting design.

What is a biodynamic lighting scheme?

Biodynamic lighting is artificial lighting that uses colour, intensity and warmth to replicate the natural cycle of daylight, explains Massimo Buster Minale, founder of Buster + Punch.

You may also have heard this system referred to as ‘circadian lighting’, as it’s designed to support our circadian rhythm (your body’s natural 24-hour clock that regulates things like the sleep–wake cycle).

"The light works with your body clock instead of against it. We evolved under amber firelight at night, so blasting bright blue light through the house at 10pm tells your brain it's still midday and melatonin stays switched off," says Shreya Vohora, Co-CEO of Interiors With Art.

"Biodynamic flips that: warm and dim in the evening, cooler and brighter in the morning. Clients tell me they're sleeping better within weeks and you can track it if you wear any wearables."

How do I create a biodynamic lighting scheme at home?

Creating a biodynamic lighting scheme sounds complicated (and expensive!), but Massimo Buster Minale assures that it doesn’t need to be.

“The look and feel can be created simply by having the right bulbs and installing dimmers. Start by swapping to tunable bulbs that let you shift colour temperature across the day, then pair them with quality dimmer switches so you can control intensity room by room," he says.

To find out what the fuss was all about, I decided to give my dining room-come-home office the biodynamic treatment, installing one of the best smart light bulbs so I could control the colour temperature and brightness depending on the time.

During the mornings, I chose a bright white shade, while in the evenings a warm amber colour to help me unwind, along with my dimmer switches on low. I’ve also taken this scheme one step further with my phone screen, applying the orange colour filter setting and lowering the brightness whenever I watch YouTube at night.

While I haven't noticed a major difference in the mornings (perhaps this will change in winter, when it doesn't get light as early), I definitely have before bedtime, as I feel more relaxed and ready to hit the pillow sooner.

What you will need

Which rooms benefit most from biodynamic lighting?

While biodynamic lighting can be used throughout your home, have a think about how you use each space.

Where do you spend your mornings? Most of us start the day by making breakfast in the kitchen and perhaps transitioning into a home office – making these key spaces where you’ll want brighter, cool-white light to promote focus and alertness. As the day progresses, you can adjust the temperature to a bright, neutral-white light.

Now, think about your evenings. If you enjoy unwinding in your living room, it’s worth switching your smart bulbs to a warmer temperature and reducing direct light through a layered approach (think floor lamps and wall sconces).

Finally, the bedroom is probably the most obvious place to install this lighting trend, as it’s where you may feel the effects the most. In this space, opt for dim amber or red lighting to help your body relax, avoiding blue tones at all costs. Don’t forget about your bathroom and hallway either, as you’ll likely use these just before going to sleep.

Biodynamic lighting is definitely becoming more prominent in the interiors space – and "faster" than Shreya Vohora expected. "I think social media has definitely made people more aware of the health benefits which has helped make it more popular. Price is less of a barrier now than it used to be," she concludes.

Want to take your wellness to the next level? You may also want to read our guide on how to build a healthy home and how to improve indoor air quality.

Are you a strict shoes-off household or do you, like me, cringe at the idea of asking guests to leave their footwear at the door? It's a controversial topic, I know.

I totally understand the logic behind the no-shoes rule some households abide by, and I would certainly never refuse to take off my shoes if asked – but I just don't like it. There's something that feels a bit insulting about the whole thing. I mean, what's wrong with my shoes? Obviously if they were caked in filth, I'd take then off without being asked. I wouldn't go ruining your beautiful carpet with clumps of mud. I used to have a friend who insisted that shoes were left at the front door, despite sharing her home with three very hairy, slobbery dogs – my socks would be covered in fur and drool when I left. It just didn't make sense.

To put the issue to bed, I decided to speak to a range of experts, both from the world of good etiquette as well as a top cleaning guru. So, just who is in the right in the great shoes-off debate?

Is it rude to ask guests to remove their shoes?

Whichever camp you fall into, let's start by looking at what the experts had to say about asking guests to remove their shoes at the front door, before allowing them into your home. To my mind, it could be seen as a little unwelcoming.

Etiquette expert Laura Windsor, aka 'The Queen of Etiquette', advisor for Netflix's Bridgerton Series and a Queen Elizabeth II Commonwealth Trust Leader, offers her take on the matter.

"Taking shoes off when entering someone’s home is not traditionally considered a cultural norm in the UK. However, many people are now adopting this practice, as it helps keep the home clean and prevents outside dirt from being brought indoors.

"If you are inviting guests to your home and would prefer shoes to be removed, it is wise to mention this in advance," adds Laura. "Doing so helps avoid embarrassing situations for guests who may not expect it – particularly if they happen to have holes in their socks."

Jo Hayes, a world-leading etiquette expert and founder of EtiquetteExpert.Org, agrees that homeowners are quite entitled to ask guests to remove their shoes, with one exception.

"This rule usually only applies to individual guests, or, perhaps, a very small number of guests. If you’re having a big party at your home, this rule is not going to fly. It’s a bit off to invite 80 people to your home for a cocktail party, and then ask them to leave their shoes at the door. It ruins the whole vibe.

"If your home isn’t suitable for a shoe-wearing cocktail party crowd, don’t host such a party – or host it outdoors or in an area of your home where shoes are okay," adds Jo.

How do you ask guests to remove their shoes politely?

If you want guests to remove their shoes, you are likely going to be keen to do so in a way that comes across as polite, after all, causing offence before visitors have even stepped into your hallway is never a good thing.

Jo Hayes has some tips on how homeowners can approach the matter in a way that won't offend. "Demonstrate with your own behaviour. Welcome them at your door with no shoes on. Additionally, a shoe rack at the front door (either inside or outside) sends a clear message that this is likely a ‘no-shoes’ house. It also provides a spot for guests to deposit their shoes.

"When you greet them at the door, after initial niceties, a kind, calm and clear request is needed if the guests haven't already taken off their shoes, or asked if they should," continues Jo. "Something like 'I hope you don’t mind, we’re a no-shoes household’ is usually enough for the guests to respond with, ‘Oh! of course, no problem’. Really, no guest should balk at this request. It’s perfectly reasonable. Depending on the situation, you may offer a set of house slippers if this will make the guest more comfortable."

Shop for shoe storage

Should visitors offer to take off their shoes?

If asking guests to remove their shoes isn't rude, how about when the tables are turned. Should, as a visitor to someone else's home, I be offering to take my shoes off? I actually do this, but I still feel a little disgruntled when they say yes.

"Do unto others as you would have them do unto you. This means, for guests, take into consideration the house standards and rules that your host has in place, and behave accordingly," picks up Jo Hayes.

"Use common wisdom, intuition, be courteous and considerate. If in doubt, ask, 'would you like me to take my shoes off?' Many homes operate with this rule – and for good reason. Shoes bring in a huge amount of dirt and grime – and, especially for carpeted areas of the home, shoes-off helps keep everything nice and clean."

Good point. But, doormats are there for a reason. Surely a thorough wipe suffices? And even then, surely cleaning a carpet once in a while in a bid to keep your guests happy isn't too much of an effort?

Stylish doormats to encourage cleaner footwear

Is wearing shoes indoors unhygienic?

Which brings us nicely on to this next point. If your guests are checking their shoes and giving them a good wipe before trampling on in, how much harm does wearing shoes indoors actually do?

Lynsey Crombie, the UK's No1 home expert and TV presenter, is well-placed to advise here. "From a cleaning point of view, I completely understand why many homeowners prefer a no-shoes policy. Shoes can bring in all sorts from outside including mud, bacteria, grass, pollen and general dirt, especially during wetter months. If you’ve just cleaned your carpets or mopped the floors, the last thing you want is muddy footprints straight through the hallway.

"For homes with babies crawling around, allergy sufferers or light-coloured carpets, asking people to take their shoes off can definitely help keep things cleaner for longer," continues Lynsey.

"I also think people are much more conscious nowadays about hygiene in the home. We spend so much time cleaning and creating calm, comfortable spaces that naturally many homeowners want to protect that environment," she says. "In homes with carpets, rugs or soft furnishings, outdoor shoes can quickly make things look tired and worn, particularly in high-traffic areas."

I'll admit that the carpet in my living room is looking a little worse for wear thanks to this being the main route from the front door to the rest of the house. But how about in homes with hard floors?

"If you have tiled, laminate or wooden floors, I personally think it matters a little less, because those surfaces are generally much easier to clean," says Lynsey. "A quick sweep, vacuum or mop usually sorts things out, and many modern floors are designed to handle everyday wear and tear. In those homes, asking people to simply wipe their feet properly on a good-quality doormat can often be enough to prevent most dirt coming indoors."

Shoes on or off? Who's in the right?

I'm starting to think there is no right or wrong here. I guess it is just personal opinion and Lynsey Crombie's point about the effect shoes can have on carpet is a good one. However, she is also keen to point out that you do need to weigh up hygiene vs hospitality.

"For some people, asking guests to remove their shoes can feel a little uncomfortable or overly formal, especially if visitors feel self-conscious about their socks or simply weren’t expecting it," says Lynsey. "Hospitality is about making people feel relaxed and welcome, so some homeowners would rather guests feel comfortable than worry about taking their shoes off at the door.

"I think there’s definitely a middle ground too," she continues. "Some families have a strict no-shoes rule upstairs or on carpets, but are more relaxed in kitchens or dining rooms with hard flooring. Others keep indoor slippers or spare socks available for guests, which can make the whole thing feel more welcoming, rather than awkward.

"Personally, I think homeowners should do whatever works best for their household without feeling guilty about it," adds Lynsey. "If removing shoes helps you maintain a cleaner, calmer home and reduces cleaning time, then it’s absolutely reasonable to ask politely.

"Equally, if you’re happy for guests to keep their shoes on and you don’t mind the occasional extra sweep or mop, that’s completely fine too," she notes. "At the end of the day, homes are there to be lived in and enjoyed. Whether shoes stay on or come off, it’s about finding a balance between cleanliness, practicality and making people feel at home."

If you feel uncomfortable about asking guests to remove their shoes but don't want to be cleaning more often than is needed, take a look at the hallway flooring ideas that offer the most resilience to dirt. Or, if shoes off is a non-negotiable, make sure your hallway storage ideas have spare space for additional footwear.

If you're renovating a compact room, colour, storage and lighting will probably demand your attention before tiles do. But the choice of tile, and specifically how it's laid, can do more for a room's proportions than almost any of those decisions.

The advice you'll most commonly encounter – use large tiles, keep it light, stick to neutrals – isn't wrong. But it barely scratches the surface of what tile choice can actually do. The variables that really determine how generous a space feels are pattern direction, grout density, and the relationship between floors and walls.

We asked two tile designers to go beyond the basics and reveal which tile patterns work hardest in a small space, which ones to avoid, and where the conventional wisdom breaks down.

It's all about the grout lines

"It comes down to grout lines more than anything else," says Damla Turgut, founder and creative director of Otto Tiles. "Large format tiles across walls and floors can help create the illusion of space because there are fewer grout lines breaking up the surface. This reduces visual clutter and allows the eye to move more continuously across the room, rather than constantly stopping and starting between individual tiles."

Maria D Arráez, director at Tile of Spain UK, agrees, adding: "Large-format tiles laid in an unfussy, continuous pattern create a sense of openness. They help visual flow and draw the eye through the space, rather than interrupting it."

The reverse is equally true. Very small format tiles have the opposite effect, and Damla cautions against coin-shaped mosaic tiles or small checkerboard designs in compact rooms.

"The combination of bold pattern repetition and excessive grout lines can make a room feel visually fragmented and overly busy," she warns. The exception being something like traditional zellige, where tiles sit together with minimal grout lines, giving you smaller scale and texture without the same visual noise.

How the direction you lay tiles affects the size of a room

"The direction of your tiles has a huge psychological impact," explains Damla Turgut. "Running a pattern towards a window naturally pulls the eye towards the light source, which can elongate a room and make it feel more open. Vertical layouts can exaggerate ceiling height, while horizontal lines can visually widen narrow spaces."

Linear formats do particularly heavy lifting here. Striped or stacked layouts, alongside elongated Kit Kat tiles, draw the eye upwards or outwards, depending on the effect you're after, while a traditional offset brick pattern laid horizontally can visually widen a room. Chevron and herringbone work similarly, the direction of the lay determining whether the room feels taller or wider.

Even the smallest decisions make a measurable difference. Laying rectangular tiles lengthways through a corridor, rather than across it, can completely shift its proportions.

"People often underestimate how much tile orientation affects spatial perception," Damla says, "but it's one of the most effective tools available when working with smaller rooms."

Shop for tiles for smaller rooms

Why using the same tones and tile on floors and walls makes a room look bigger

One of the most consistently effective techniques in a small room is eliminating the visual break between floor and wall. When different materials or colours meet at that junction, the eye registers the room's true edges. Remove that contrast, and the room reads as much larger than it is.

When choosing tiles for a small bathroom, "wrapping the same tile across floors and walls can blur boundaries and make the room feel much larger because the eye isn't constantly stopping and starting between surfaces," says Damla Turgut. And Maria D Arráez extends this to internal thresholds too. "Run floor tiles seamlessly into walk-in shower areas or onto walls," she advises, "as this helps blur the boundary and makes smaller rooms feel more expansive".

Can dark tiles make a room look bigger?

"Colour and pattern go hand in hand, so it's vital to consider both when choosing tiles," says Maria D Arráez. "Softer, more tonal palettes reflect the light better and help create a welcoming, airy feel, especially when paired with a complementary grout colour." But she is clear that bold colour is far from off the table.

"An earthy palette of rich greens, terracottas and deep blues can work beautifully in small rooms when used consistently. Cocooning a small space in a darker colour can actually make it feel bigger, as the enveloping effect feels intentional rather than overwhelming."

The key, she adds, is harmony: the tile finish, grout and surrounding materials need to work together rather than compete. Damla Turgut takes a similar view on finish, noting that deeper tones with reflective surfaces can create a genuine sense of depth and atmosphere in a low-ceilinged room, particularly when paired with good lighting. "Smaller spaces don't always need to feel minimal or white to feel expansive," she says – a useful reminder that pale and plain is a choice, not a rule.

The rooms where standard rules don't apply

Pair these plain and patterned tiles together

Every renovator eventually has a room that refuses to behave like the others. Whether it's a narrow hallway or a low-ceilinged bathroom, these are also the spaces where the most interesting decisions get made.

Damla Turgut's instinct is to lean into the character of the room rather than fight it. In a narrow hallway, for instance, she would embrace a strong directional tile pattern rather than try to disguise the proportions as, "it creates real impact rather than fighting against them."

And for rooms with decorative tiles on the floor, she makes the case for keeping the walls relatively calm. "A decorative motif can help ground the scheme and set the tone for the interior," she says. "If the walls and ceiling are colour-capped, or kept relatively neutral, it allows the eye to move more naturally around the space without interruption. That balance can make a smaller room feel cohesive and larger."

Of all the individual tips and techniques, Damla's overarching point is perhaps the most useful to take away.

"Scale, layout and grout all work together," she says. "It's rarely one single factor that changes how spacious a room feels." Tile pattern is a design tool, not just a decorative choice – and the better you understand each variable, the more effectively you can use them.

The principles covered here apply to any room in the home. Whether you're choosing bedroom floor tiles or living room tiles, the same thinking around pattern direction, grout density and scale will help any space feel larger and more considered.

If you've noticed couch grass growing in your garden and spoiling the uniform look of your lawn, you may be wondering whether it's a weed and if you should remove it.

While yes, this perennial species is technically a weed – spreading aggressively and sometimes competing with other plants outdoors – it can play an important part in the ecosystem in your garden, for butterflies and moths in particular.

To find out whether you should remove it and the easiest way to do so, we spoke with two gardening experts who have shared their advice below.

Should I remove couch grass?

No, you don’t need to remove couch grass as part of your lawn care routine. In fact, this species supports the wildlife in your garden, acting as an important food source for butterfly and moth caterpillars, according to experts at the RHS.

It can also provide shelter for some insects, such as beetles, keeping them protected from predators and providing a safe hunting ground.

Not only does it help the creatures in your garden, but it also increases biodiversity, and RHS experts say it is increasingly being considered a wildflower. Thanks to its flowering seed head – which appears from June to August – this grass can also look very pretty in a meadow-style space.

While there are lots of benefits to keeping couch grass in your garden, it’s worth being aware that it is an invasive and fast-growing plant, which can spoil the look of a tidy lawn and outcompete other plants.

With that in mind, you may choose to remove it or relocate it to another area of the garden. The RHS recommends this if it is growing in a vegetable garden, newly planted borders, newly sown lawns, and alpine rockeries, and suggests doing so in early spring.

How do I remove couch grass?

If couch grass is causing problems in your garden, you can remove this weed naturally, as using a herbicide will also kill patches of your lawn.

“Couch grass is one of the most persistent garden weeds because it spreads through an extensive network of underground stems, known as rhizomes. Simply pulling off the top growth often isn't enough, as any remaining roots can quickly regenerate and produce new plants," explains Martin Chaplin, Head of Horticulture at Hedges Direct.

“To remove couch grass effectively, it's important to dig out as much of the root system as possible, carefully lifting and removing the white rhizomes from the soil. Some gardeners find using a garden fork rather than a spade helps, as it loosens the soil while reducing the likelihood of cutting the roots into smaller pieces that can regrow elsewhere."

If you're dealing with a large infestation, he says you can cover the area with cardboard, mulch, or a weed-suppressing membrane for several months, which will block light and weaken the plant.

Top tip: remove couch grass after rainfall as the rhizomes will be easier to lift, and avoid aggressive digging as this can spread it even further.

Tackle couch grass with these shopping picks

How do I control couch grass?

If you don't want to remove the couch grass altogether (but would rather it didn't grow out of control), Martin Chaplin recommends "regular weeding, mulching and maintaining healthy, densely planted borders" to suppress new growth.

"Ground-cover planting can also be useful, as couch grass is less likely to spread vigorously where there is strong competition from established plants. Varieties such as hardy geraniums, vinca (periwinkle) and ajuga create dense coverage that helps shade the soil and reduce the space available for weeds to establish," he adds.

As we've learned, there are pros and cons to couch grass in your garden, and deciding whether to remove it or keep it is ultimately up to you.

If you found this helpful, you may want to read our guide on laying turf over grass or learn about the different types of ornamental grass.

Cloudy pool water can instantly make a swim seem less inviting – and on these hot summer days, you won’t want to miss out, especially if you’ve already invested in one of the best home swimming pools.

Thankfully, it's usually pretty simple to get the water in your garden pool cleared up and looking pristine. With our tips, you’ll be able to cool off outdoors in no time – without worrying about what's lurking at the bottom.

Below, we explain four reasons why your pool water might be cloudy, and how to get it sparkling once again.

How do I clear cloudy pool water?

The bottom line when it comes to preventing cloudy water is to maintain a proper pool maintenance routine. But if you need to know how to clear it fast, you're in luck: there are a couple of different methods that will restore your water’s sparkle within just a few days.

1. The pool clarifier method
The first approach is to use a clarifier, which makes particles in your pool clump together, making it easier for the filter to remove them. Clean your pool first using a pool brush, then follow your chosen product’s application instructions. Remember to keep the filter running until the water is clear again – this can take around three days.

What you will need

2. The pool flocculant method

Alternatively, you can use a pool flocculant. As Swim University says, this is more suited for extremely cloudy water. Like a clarifier, it also clumps together contaminants, but it makes them sink to the floor of your pool.

You'll then need to hoover them up with a manual pool vacuum, set to the waste setting. Keep water levels topped up with a garden hose as you carry out the job. This method requires more work on your behalf, but it should clear your pool quickly – usually in one to two days.

What you will need

Why is my pool water cloudy?

1. Issues with your pool's filter

One of the most common reasons for cloudy water is a problem with your pool's filter. If it's not working properly, it won't be able to clear contaminants from your pool effectively.

This is why checking and cleaning your filters – and replacing them when necessary – should be a crucial part of your maintenance routine. Remember to clear out skimmer baskets frequently, too.

According to Swim University, you should also make sure your filter is on for long enough each day for the entire pool's worth of water to pass through it – this will usually take at least eight to 12 hours.

2. Unbalanced pool chemicals

Another reason for cloudy pool water is unbalanced chemical levels. This includes your chlorine levels and the pH and alkalinity.

Test the water often (using a kit like this from Amazon) and adjust the levels with chemicals accordingly. It's particularly wise to do this after heavy use, such as a pool party.

Shocking a pool, just as with shocking a hot tub, should also be part of your regular routine for an extra boost of sanitation and to keep your water looking clean and clear. Cloudy pool water after shocking may occur, but it's generally just a temporary reaction and will clear up as the filter runs.

3. Rainwater affecting your pool's water

You may also notice cloudy pool water after rain. As Swim University explains, this is because the excess water will dilute the chlorine levels in your pool, making it less effective at dealing with bacteria. Rainwater run-off from your pool patio or deck can also introduce an influx of contaminants.

Again, you'll need to test and adjust the chemistry of your pool accordingly, as well as clean out any debris that may have blown into the pool during the storm.

4. Algae build-up

If you've noticed your pool turning green as well as cloudy, pool algae is likely to be the cause. This is a common problem but can be dealt with by giving it a thorough deep clean (although milder cases can be treated with an algaecide).

While cloudy pool water can be unsightly, the good news is that it's possible to clear it with the help of a couple of handy products and correct maintenance.

For more expert advice, read our guide on swimming pool types and swimming pool mistakes to avoid.

There was a time, not so long ago, when it you would be hard pushed to find an extension or renovation project that didn't feature a set of bifold doors. It didn't matter what kind of house they were being added to, or how big the opening being filled was – everyone (myself included) jumped on the 'bring-the-outside-in' bandwagon, and bifolds were a non-negotiable part of this.

But as glazing innovations have changed, so have patio doors in general, with larger sizes, styles and contemporary finishes now on offer, meaning the question now tends to be around bifold doors vs sliding patio doors, as both options connect inside with out.

We reached out to some top design experts for their views on when each type of door works best, and how to identify the right style for your project.

Are bifold doors still in fashion?

In my own home, I have a small set of composite bifold doors – timber on the inside, with a grey powder-coated aluminium finish on the out – complete with integrated blind on one side, and a handy fly screen on the other. Since they were installed around 10 years ago, they have withstood the test of time well, and I really have no complaints. However, we are soon to embark on another home extension project and I'm wondering whether they still have a place in current extension trends, or if I should be exploring sliding patio doors instead.

Edward Stobart, technical sales manager at IDSystems, shared his thoughts on this with me. "Bifold doors have not gone out of fashion, but how they are used on projects has changed over the past 10 years. Where once they were the go-to option for any and every project that required large expanses of glazing, nowadays they tend to be utilised for smaller apertures, under four metres wide."

Architect James Munro of Pace Architecture agrees that in his experience, there has been a move away from this style of patio door.

"I think we have seen a general decline in the use of bifolds over the last 10-15 years – and we now rarely specify them, for a number of reasons," he says, citing how many of his clients are keen to explore other options, seeking something that's different to bifold doors instead.

Are sliding doors replacing bifold doors?

If bifold doors are not your go-to option – sliding doors are the most obvious alternative, but what's different about them and why might they be more suitable for your scheme?

"When a client comes to us wanting to open their ground floor to a garden or terrace, we typically steer them towards sliding doors instead," reveals James Munro. "The difference in day-to-day experience is significant. A good sliding system creates a genuinely seamless connection between interior and exterior. In summer, you are living across both spaces without thinking about it.

"Bifolds, by contrast, stack panels, eat into usable floor area when open, and the folding mechanisms can be, in our experience, more susceptible to failure over time."

What are the alternatives to sliding and bifold doors?

Of course, sliding doors are not the only alternative worth considering – there are lots of other options also enjoying plenty of popularity right now.

"Our two most common specifications now are sliding systems and steel-framed, Crittall-style glazing," says James Munro. "The choice between them is driven by both how the client plans to use the space and the architectural character of the project.

"Sliding suits open-plan living, where the boundary between inside and outside should dissolve. Crittall suits projects where the glazing is as much about how it looks as how it performs – we tend to specify these as floor-to-ceiling units, with tall elegant proportions and fixed side lights. It has a more considered, classic quality without reverting to French doors.

"In many of our projects we also have large fixed areas of architectural glazing, oriel or picture windows – tall, fixed windows framing a view of the garden," continues James. "This variety adds interest internally and externally, as well as being more practical in terms of window treatments and placement of furniture, and it also helps with zoning a room," he adds, noting how the design of bifolds can offer less room for these more nuanced architectural details.

When bifolds can be the best option

While bifold doors might no longer be the only champion of the patio door world, they still seem to have so much to offer, so what are the instances when they are still a viable option?

"Where bifold doors come into their own is their ability to completely open an aperture, unlike sliding doors which almost always need a fixed frame behind which the other panels slide," points out Edward Stobart.

"For smaller openings, giving up part of the aperture to a fixed frame can be quite a considerable compromise, so the ability to fold and slide bifolds to one end to create a seamless transition between inside and out, remains as popular as ever."

That said, if your lifestyle or location makes large expanses of open walls unrealistic, a more fixed frame system might be a better option, notes James Munro.

"My personal view is that in practice, you rarely want or need a full wall of glass to open up. This benefit, when it comes for just a few weeks of the year, does not override the negative of having more vertical frames and panels of glass than a sliding system, which might only open up to two thirds," he says. "I also think there is something more pleasurable in sliding a high-quality framed system too," he adds.

Will new developments in bifold doors change things?

It is important to note here, that things haven't just stood still for bifold doors – there have been some significant developments in the last few years that could see them coming up in the popularity stakes once more.

"When it comes to 'fashion', Art Deco-style designs, with horizontal bars across the glass have given aluminium bifold door sales a boost because they more closely match the look of traditional steel-framed doors – offering traditional style for period properties, or adding character to new-builds, extensions or homes," says Edward Stobart.

"The one area where demand for bifold doors fell significantly was with timber-framed systems," continues Edward. "However, developments in thermal efficiency mean that aluminium doors are just as efficient as timber systems but without the risks of frames warping and flexing.

"While sliding doors might have replaced bifold doors for most larger apertures, inventions such as the Vistaline Slide & Turn System from IDSystems now offer alternatives for homeowners to consider. The system features narrow frames, just like sliding doors, but with panels that slide and stack to one end like bifolds. This has given those considering an extension or house renovation more choice than they would have had a decade ago ."

FAQs

Are bifold doors more secure than sliding doors?

For many homeowners installing patio doors, security will be a priority. In the past, bifold doors did tend to be more secure than sliding doors, thanks to their multiple locking points, however, when it comes to modern systems, there is not much of a difference.

"When it comes to factors like security, weather protection and thermal efficiency, the development of all aluminium door systems means there is very little in it between the different types of doors," says Edward Stobart, although he goes on to point out that quality really does matter here.

"The adage that ‘you get what you pay for’ really applies with bifold door costs, so ensuring that you choose the best possible system from a reputable supplier is especially important for long-term peace of mind."

Whichever type of door you end up opting for, it is still worthwhile looking into the best home security systems.

Alongside your choice of patio door, whether you are building from scratch, renovating or extending, make sure you think through your front door ideas really carefully too – they really can make or break the overall kerb appeal of a property.

And, to make the connection between indoors and outdoors even more cohesive, make sure you understand how to make an extension work with your garden.

Take time to consider which are the best trees for creating privacy in your garden. Hasty purchases could result in a tree which is too large for the plot – or the wrong shape to solve the problem.

It is tempting to opt for a fast fix such as a rapidly growing evergreen which will shoot up and mask the problem with dense growth in a couple of seasons. But bear in mind that this could also exclude valuable light from your garden, restricting the growth of existing plants. It might also shade the rooms in your house, and even cause conflict with the neighbours.

If the issue is with one window which overlooks your property, it may be that a carefully placed single tree will be enough to provide suitable garden screening. Tree shape is a factor, too. Are you looking for a lacy screen of branches to mask an expansive overlooked area? A multi-stemmed tree might solve that problem. Use our selection to choose a privacy tree which will add value and interest to your garden as well as solving a common problem.

1. Banana palm

Best for: screening from above

Overlooked by another house or a block of flats looming above your garden? The huge paddle-shaped leaves of the banana palm act as a living parasol, offering shade and shelter. Although they look like tender plants, these palms will survive cold snaps, although fleecing is a good idea if a prolonged cold snap is forecast. The foliage may die back after frosts.

Cut the plant down to ground level and it should sprout again in late spring. Feed monthly with an all-purpose soluble plant food. Try Musa ‘Red Abyssinian’ for attractive colouring and leaf shape.

2. English holly 

Best for: year-round colour

For an elegant and quintessentially English screen, a holly tree (Ilex aquifolium) makes a great choice for one of the best trees for privacy. Evergreen for year-round privacy, they can be precisely shaped to block unwelcome eyes from a particular spot, or allowed to expand into a larger and more natural shape.

There’s also the bonus of pretty red berries on female trees, as long as they are grown near a male tree.

3. Hornbeam 

Best for: creating a year-round screen

Although this is a deciduous tree, the young stems hang on to their neatly shaped red and gold leaves over the winter months, so you’re always guaranteed some coverage.

Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) can be grown as a tree or a hedge, but it must be pruned in midsummer to keep control of the size. With an ultimate height of 80ft (25m), it is essential to keep on top of cutting back.

4. Silver birch

Best for: light screening

A multi-stemmed silver birch makes a beautiful privacy screen. Its filigree branches with pure white bark and vase shape will let the light through while keeping prying eyes out.

Try Betula utilis jacquemontii ‘Snow Queen’ which will grow in sun or semi shade in most types of well-drained soil and can withstand harsh winters. This tree is frequently recommended by experts as a garden essential. "It is bullet proof," says Michael Buck of Form Plants.

5. Photinia standard tree

Best for: screening above the fence line

Photinia is a dense, evergreen shrub, but it can be bought as a shapely tree grafted on to a clear stem (that’s a long, slender trunk). ‘Red Robin’ (available from Dobies) is a good choice as the young leaves are an attractive scarlet. This can be encouraged by regular, gentle trimming in spring and summer. It has pretty white flowers in April and May.

It typically grows up to 30cm per year, reaching an ultimate height and spread of 16ft (5m). It will grow in full sun or partial shade and is a good choice if you're looking to create a privacy fence.

6. Bay tree

Best for: small garden screening

These evergreen conical-shaped trees lend themselves to garden planter ideas, perhaps to screen off a small seating area. The leathery, evergreen foliage has a wonderful scent, and the little lime green flowers in spring are especially beneficial for bees.

Grow in full sun or partial shade, in a sheltered spot, and if in a container, keep them well-watered in hot, dry spells. Prune to keep the shape and restrict size. They will grow up to 3ft (1m) in a pot, and up to 10ft (3m) in the ground. You'll find plenty more options for the best trees to grow in pots in our dedicated guide too.

7. Thuja Green Giant

Best for: rapid coverage in large gardens

One of the best trees for privacy if you're looking to create dense screening in larger gardens. It can grow to a towering 50-60ft (15-18m) if not tightly controlled with regular pruning (once a year at least).

This evergreen conifer has glossy, aromatic dark green leaves and brown cones. Cut it back in autumn to maintain the shape and size. This is a hardy tree which can cope with cold climates and rugged terrain.

8. Italian cypress 

Best for: extra-tall coverage

If you're searching for the best trees for small gardens, these pencil slim conifers are a practical choice if you need an extra-tall screen in a compact space.

Tough and hardy, with an architectural shape, they look good placed side by side, anywhere that coverage is needed. Ideal for Mediterranean garden ideas, they are drought-tolerant, but container grown ones will need regular watering.

9. Black cherry plum tree

Best for: front garden privacy

A single tree planted in front of a house can perform a double function: creating an attractive focal point while screening the windows from curious passers-by.

Ornamental cherry trees are one of the best options for front gardens, particularly Prunus cerasifera ‘Nigra’ (available from Crocus) which has masses of pale blossom in March and April, on rich purple/chocolate coloured foliage. It’s a medium-sized tree with a pleasing, rounded shape, which grows around 16ft (5m) tall in 20 years. It can cope with pollution in urban gardens and thrives in sun or partial shade in well-draining soil.

10. Western Red Cedar

Best for: a dense boundary screen with a cedar scent

Evergreen Thuja Plicata is a fast growing tree, increasing at around 40-60cm per year. It can make a good alternative to the more problematic Leylandii and is an ideal choice for a fast-growing hedge if you want to create a dense screen along a boundary.

It grows best in full sun or partial shade and typically reaches around 35m in height with a conical shape. You can keep its height in check with regular pruning if you want to use it as more of a hedging plant. It also gives off a lovely cedar scent when you brush past it.

FAQs

How far from your house should you plant a tree for privacy?

This is a really important question before going ahead with purchasing a tree for privacy. You need to weigh up the benefits of screening versus the potential for damage to your property, which can be created by invasive roots or ground shrinkage caused by the tree taking up all the ground water.

That being said, most trees are unlikely to cause many issues, providing you carefully consider the final height and spread of the tree when it will be fully grown.

According to Tony Kirkham, author of The Kew Gardener’s Guide to Growing Trees (available at Amazon), "the general rule of thumb is to work out what the overall height of the tree is when mature and plant it three quarters of its height away from the house."

What type of tree grows fast for privacy? 

Healthy trees grow fastest, so ensure that you buy from a trustworthy source and follow the planting and care instructions closely.

Whether you are planting bare root trees or a more established specimen, watering your new tree regularly for the first couple of years is key. Most garden centres and specialist tree nurseries will be only too happy to offer additional advice if you have never grown a tree before.

What is the fastest growing evergreen for privacy?

Leylandii is one of the fastest growers, but it’s not the prettiest tree, and its vigorous habit is notorious for creating boundary issues. Certain species of eucalyptus can grow up to 9ft (2m) in a single year. The aptly named Thuja Green Giant sprouts 3ft (0.9m) annually, Italian Cypress adds around two feet (0.6m) per year.

Trees can be contained with regular pruning at the right time of year, but it is important to choose one whose proportions won’t take over your garden landscaping ideas.

Before you make your final choice of tree for creating privacy in your garden, make sure you measure your garden, find out which way it faces and what kind of soil type you have, as these are important factors which can influence the tree type.

Whether you are trying to create privacy from a neighbouring property, windows, ugly street furniture or a busy road, gardening expert Tony Kirkham has one final piece of advice: "Don’t be tempted to plant the old-fashioned conifer hedge Leyland Cypress because it is fast growing and cheap to buy," he says. "In the long term it will potentially be problematic and ugly."

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

There could be a few reasons why your hydrangea isn't blooming, and luckily, most can be fixed.

Having had a resurgence over the last few years, hydrangeas are a valuable addition to a planting scheme for their statement structure. But the most appealing feature of these shrubs has to be their giant flower heads in bright blue or pink, or in some varieties, such as 'Annabelle', a dazzling white. So, if yours isn't blooming, you'll likely feel disappointed.

However, in many cases, all it takes is a few adjustments to your hydrangea plant care routine to get those beautiful flowers back. Below, you'll find six things that could be going wrong and how to remedy them.

1. Pruning hydrangeas incorrectly

"One of the most common reasons why hydrangeas fail to flower is incorrect pruning," says Ruth Hayes, former Gardening Editor of Amateur Gardening.

In most cases, hydrangea pruning should be done in late spring, she explains, or even later in colder areas. This is because "the previous year's old flower heads help protect the new growth from frost."

If your hydrangea has failed to flower, Ruth suggests feeding it monthly with sulphate of potash throughout summer, then leaving it unpruned until late next spring.

"When you prune, reduce stems to a healthy pair of leaf buds, then feed with a general-purpose fertiliser, water and mulch over the root area," she adds.

However, do bear in mind that some hydrangeas need pruning after they've finished flowering in late summer – so double check which approach is suitable for your plant.

2. Too much or too little water

Watering plants correctly is fundamental to their health, so if your hydrangea isn't flowering, this could be part of the problem.

As the RHS explains, "shrubs often fail to flower after drought," whether that's from this year or last. Keeping the compost around your hydrangea moist, particularly in periods of dry and sunny spells, can help keep it healthy and flowering well. Mulching is a good way to help the soil retain moisture.

Be careful you don't overwater, though, as this can lead hydrangeas' roots to rot, leaves to drop, and flowers to fail to form. So ensure that the soil around your shrub is well-draining.

If you're growing hydrangeas in pots, raising them up on pot feet can help prevent compost from becoming waterlogged.

Shop these budget-friendly fixes

3. Excessive feeding

Although fertilising plants can be very beneficial in helping them grow strong, too much of a good thing can be detrimental. This is particularly the case if you're using a nitrogen-rich feed, which will encourage plenty of lush green leaves – at the expense of blooms.

Bear in mind that mulches made up of poultry manure or farmyard manure can also be high in nitrogen, as the RHS explains. So, it may be wise to stop using these if you've noticed fewer flowers on your shrubs.

4. Planting your hydrangea in the wrong place

"While hydrangeas prefer protection from hot, direct sun, too much shade will prevent them from forming flower buds. They generally need at least three to four hours of sunlight daily. Too much sun can stress the plant, causing it to conserve energy and not form flowers," says Chris Wood, Head Florist at Waitrose Gardens.

What's more, if your hydrangea is in a very exposed site, it's more likely to succumb to frost damage which can prevent buds from flowering. And speaking of frost – you'll also want to check that the hydrangea varieties you buy are suitable for your region in terms of their hardiness.

If you think yours could benefit from a new position in your plot, take into account the fact that shrubs can take a little time to re-establish. So, don't worry if it takes a year or so to re-flower properly.

5. Letting your hydrangea become pot-bound

Plants grown in containers can become pot-bound, which is where their roots become congested and restricted. This can lead to them suffering from drought and a lack of nutrients, explains the RHS.

If you're having trouble getting your pot-grown hydrangea to bloom, this could be the reason. Re-plant it in a larger pot in autumn, once it has finished flowering.

6. Plant age

According to Chris Wood, hydrangeas can sometimes take one to four years before they bloom reliably while they establish a strong root system. Unfortunately, the only solution is to be a little more patient with the plant.

While it can be very frustrating when your hydrangeas don’t bloom, we hope you can take some comfort in knowing there are many potential reasons – and that it’s usually something you can fix.

For more advice, read our guide on garden design or the best trees for small gardens.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Tiling around a toilet isn’t easy. The curves and bends provide a challenge for any DIYer. Get it wrong, and you will have to break out a new tile and start over. Or you could be spending forever removing tiny slivers of tile to get a good fit.

Whether you are laying floor tiles, wall tiles or using peel-and-stick tiles, the principles remain very much the same. But the techniques to achieve the curve and fit you need can differ depending on different factors.

Here, I explain the three steps you need to follow and the different methods you can use to try and achieve the perfect fit when cutting tiles around your toilet.

Step one: marking the curve

Cutting curves in a tile needs to be done accurately in order to ensure a good fit, and it all starts with marking out the curve correctly

These are the four tried and tested methods I've tried and tested.

1. Create a cardboard template

Creating a template is an old-school method, but it works well. However, you need to be patient to get the best results. Stephen Russell, independent tiler of Ashley Cross Tiling, says, “use a piece of cardboard to mark the curve and cut to shape. Don’t rush the process. If you do, you might need to start again.”

First, place the tile onto the cardboard, mark it with a pencil and then cut the cardboard with large wallpaper scissors. Alternatively, you can use a sharp steel snap-off knife, such as this Wolfcraft Metal Snap-Off Blade Knife from Amazon.

Now measure from the edge of the tile you are laying next to the toilet or object. Start at one end of the tile, take measurements every 50mm, and mark them on the template. This gives you a rough outline of the curve.

Next, make a cut on the template from the edge to be removed, just past the marks you made previously. Do this every 10mm. You’ll now have a set of strands that are flexible. Place the template where the tile is going to go, and don’t forget the gap for the grout if using stone or ceramic tiles.

Finally, press around the area (I use the end of a pencil) where the template meets the curve to create a crisp crease. Mark the shape with a pencil, pick up the template and cut along the mark. Put the template in place and check that it matches up as expected. If too tight to the curve, trim and check again. When happy, transfer to the tile.

An alternative is to use construction paper; the process is the same, but the material is usually slightly easier to cut. This method works a treat as long as you take your time. And don’t forget the grout gap.

2. Use a contour gauge

A contour gauge, such as this Dodowin contour gauge profile tool from Amazon (which I have), is a quick and easy way to get an accurate curve. Simply hold in place and push against the curve. Then transfer to a tile and mark with a pencil.

A contour gauge doesn’t have much depth; mine is around 70mm. However, you can turn and use the full length (in my case, 25cm) of the gauge to profile a longer curve.

Shop these tools for great curved tile cuts

3. Measure and mark

If you don’t have a piece of cardboard or a contour gauge handy, you can go freestyle and just measure and mark. I simply take a measurement every 20mm and mark on the tile. Then, join the marks freehand.

This method works well, but you need to take your time, as there’s no room for error. And don’t forget the grout gap. I use a straight edge and a pencil and mark the gap on the floor (or wall), so I don’t forget where to measure from.

4. Homemade hack

I’ve also used a child's school compass as a quick way to create a curve on a template, which you can transfer to a tile. I’ve also used it to mark plank-style tiles directly. This works well on the long side of an object (like a toilet) with a gentle curve.

I generally use a pencil to mark the curve, but a felt tip can work if the pencil isn’t working well, and the tile doesn’t stain.

Step two: Marking the tile to cut

There are a few options to mark a tile so you know where to cut. This will depend on the type of tile. “Use a pencil, as a felt tip pen can sometimes stain certain types of tile," warns Stephen Russell.

Felt tips are typically used on glazed tiles because they can be easily wiped clean. "Make sure you double check they wipe off cleanly on a test tile first," adds Harriet Goodacre, interiors and tiling expert from Topps Tiles, "as you don’t want any unsightly marks left on your brand new tiles."

The other option is to use a tile scribe. “A tile scribe can be used to lightly score the surface of the tile where you need to cut it, explains Harriet. "It’s especially useful when you want a guide that won’t rub away during the cutting process.

“The key is visibility without going too deep," she notes, "as too heavy scoring can lead to chipping.”

Step three: cutting the curve on the tile

There are a few options for cutting a curve once the tile has been marked out. “For curved cuts, it all comes down to how tight the shape and bend is and what the tile’s made from,” advises Harriet Goodacre.

For small curves, a pair of tile nippers is usually sufficient. For larger curves, both our experts, and I, recommend an angle grinder.

“Ease the angle grinder through the marked line using the weight of the angle grinder; do not use added force,” says Stephen Russell.

“Keep running through the angle grinder several times, don’t cut right through the tile when you start," he adds, noting how you also need to make sure you use a masonry disc to cut with.

Alternatively, you can use an electric tile cutter such as this Titan Electric Tile Cutter from Screwfix. This only allows straight cuts, so the technique is to make cuts every 10-20mm from the edge of the tile to the marked-out curve. Ideally, use a tile scribe to mark the curve, then you can snap off each thin tile strand and finish with tile nippers and a metal file such as this TARIST Half Round Metal File from Amazon, for smooth edges

For small, more intricate curves, you can use a tile saw. Good for wall tiles, but you might find you struggle with thicker floor tiles.

You might have seen a few videos online where a tiler uses a manual tile cutter, such as this Vitrex Heavy Duty Tile Cutter from Toolstation, to cut a curve. I can promise you this takes plenty of practice and is best avoided for most DIYers.

If you’re tiling a bathroom floor, you’ll need to know how many tiles you'll need. Especially if cutting curves around a toilet. Find out where to get the best deals with our where to buy bathroom floor tiles guide, or, for inspiration on what to buy, check out our bathroom floor tile ideas.