If you’re planning a self-build, or even a major extension of it, you’ll almost certainly come across the term ‘design and build’. On the face of it it sounds like the obvious solution. One company designs and then builds your project, and with them taking overall responsibility what could go wrong?

Building or renovating a home requires countless decisions, a team of professionals and tradespeople and hundreds of technical details that all have to come together exactly at the right time. The thought of someone else coordinating everything can understandably take a huge weight off your shoulders.

But the reality is that design and build isn’t a standard service. Every company offers something slightly different, and whether it’s the right route depends just as much on the type of person you are and your expectations as it does on the type of project you’re undertaking. Here, I explain what's involved to help you assess if it's the right choice for you.

What is a design and build package?

In its simplest form, a design and build package brings the design and construction of a project under a single contract. Rather than appointing an architect to produce the drawings before finding a builder to price and construct them, you appoint one organisation that takes responsibility for delivering the project from concept through to completion.

This doesn’t necessarily mean that everyone involved works for the same company. Many design and build businesses use independent architects and specialist consultants, as well as independent subcontractors to complete the building work.

A design and build contractor will offer a single point of responsibility, managing the appointments and coordinating the whole design process. From a client’s perspective, this is a big attraction. Instead of trying to coordinate several consultants and contractors yourself, you’re dealing with one organisation that is responsible for bringing everything together.

For many self-builders, particularly those building for the first time, that’s a reassuring prospect. But, it's also not uncommon for some clients to want to be involved in every decision. Others might prefer a hands-off approach and simply want confidence that someone experienced is managing the project properly. Neither approach is right or wrong, and the important thing is to understand what you’re buying before you commit.

How does the design and build process work?

Although every company has its own way of working, the process usually follows a fairly logical sequence. It usually begins with understanding precisely what you’re trying to achieve – the brief.

This should consider much more than just how many bedrooms you want. A good brief should set out how you intend to live in the house, what your priorities are, what your budget is and whether there are any planning constraints that could influence the design.

Once that brief has been established, concept designs are then developed and signed off before progressing to planning drawings which are needed to secure planning permission.

After planning approval has been granted, the next stage, in my experience, makes the biggest difference to how smoothly the build progresses: the technical design. This is where the structural design is coordinated, insulation strategy agreed, drainage layouts designed, and dozens of construction details and technical assessments completed, to prove that the design complies with the building regulations.

Once full building regulations approval has been secured, construction can begin. Throughout the build, the contractor coordinates trades, project manages the programme, oversees quality and health and safety working towards completion of the contract and handover.

It sounds straightforward, but competence, focus and good coordination at every stage is what makes the difference between a project that feels organised and one that constantly seems to be catching up with itself.

How is it different from a traditional route?

The traditional procurement route separates design from construction. You first appoint an architect who then works through the design, obtains planning permission, prepares building regulations drawings and then invites builders to tender for the work.

In theory, this approach gives you control over the design before construction starts. It also means the architect works directly for you rather than the contractor.

The downside is that builders don’t normally become involved until much later in the process, so the first indication of the eventual cost often comes after months of design work has already been completed. If the tenders then come back significantly over budget, the design may need to be revised or, worse still, aborted.

Design and build tries to avoid this by allowing the design and the budget to develop hand in hand. Instead of designing the structure first and pricing later, the project evolves with both cost and design considered alongside each other. This should mean fewer surprises for you.

What is and isn't included?

‘What’s included’ is the question that self-builders should ask more than any other. Unfortunately, people often assume that all design and build packages include the same products and services. They don’t.

One company may provide architectural design, planning, building regulations drawings, structural engineering, project management and construction. Another may only include the architectural drawings and the build itself, leaving you to arrange surveys, planning services, specialist consultants, utility connections or landscaping separately.

Even items such as flooring, decorating, fitted wardrobes, external drainage, driveways or external works can vary between design and build companies, which is why I always recommend asking for a detailed schedule of work, which should explain exactly what is included within the contract.

How are costs calculated?

One of the biggest advantages of a design and build approach is that building costs can often be considered while the design is still developing. If you decide you want larger windows, a vaulted ceiling or a more complex roof, the financial implications can usually be assessed before the drawings are finalised. This helps to keep the project aligned with your budget.

However, it’s important to remember that budget prices are usually based on assumptions, which may change. For example, ground conditions may still be unknown or utility providers may not have confirmed the connection costs.

As more information becomes available, the actual cost will become clear, so always make sure you understand who will be picking up the bill – you or the contractor.

Don’t forget, if you’re dealing with only one design and build contractor their prices might not be exposed to competitor pressure. This might mean that you could be paying too much, so always check for value for money by sourcing a few check prices from alternative suppliers.

Visiting events such as the Homebuilding & Renovating Show can be a good way of doing this as you can talk to a wide range of suppliers and industry experts in person, in one place.

Does it give cost certainty?

This build route certainly has the potential to provide greater cost certainty than some traditional procurement routes, but it doesn’t eliminate financial risk altogether. The reality is that no contractor can accurately price work that hasn’t yet been fully designed.

Likewise, no one can predict every unforeseen issue that might emerge once construction begins. Unexpected ground conditions, changes made by the client, planning requirements and utility company costs can all affect the final account, depending on the terms of the design and build contract.

A good design and build contractor won’t promise that costs can never change. Instead, they’ll explain exactly when the contract sum becomes fixed, what assumptions have been made and how variations will be dealt with if circumstances change.

In my opinion you’ll be far better off by having an honest conversation about what’s included rather than the fixed price, no matter what happens.

How involved will you still be?

One misconception is that design and build allows you to hand over the project completely and just wait for the keys. It doesn’t work like that, however. You’ll still need to make countless decisions throughout the project, particularly where design is concerned or when the contractor proposes something different to what’s in the contract.

When it comes to design and build the difference compared to traditional approaches is that someone else is coordinating the process rather than you having to do it yourself. In many ways that’s what you’re paying for, and good design and build companies will guide their clients through decisions so they’re timely and won’t become delays later.

Does technical design still matter with design and build?

Absolutely. This is probably where there’s the greatest misunderstanding. People sometimes assume that because they’re buying a design and build package, the technical information somehow becomes less important, because the contractor will take care of it.

In reality, technical information is still vital and ultimately will ensure that your finished home is safe, durable and energy-efficient. It’s therefore not something that should be left to the contractor’s discretion.

An important point to note is that building regulations compliance shouldn’t just rely on standard specifications. Drawings and details are also needed to show how the building is intended to perform – for example: how insulation will remain continuous; how thermal bridges are addressed; how cavity barriers will be installed; how moisture will be managed; and how airtightness will be maintained.

Without adequate construction details, contractors are left interpreting general notes, and building control can’t fully assess and check how compliance and quality is achieved. And without the complete information about what’s being built, you’ll have a limited understanding of what you’re getting and how your home will perform.

Are there any drawbacks to design and build?

The benefits of design and build are generally clear. Having one organisation responsible for both the design and construction of the property usually creates better communication and clearer accountability. Problems can often be resolved quickly because there’s less opportunity for disagreements between the design team and the contractor, and cost management is often stronger because construction expertise is influencing the design from an early stage in the process – so what gets designed is usually buildable for the budget.

Many clients also find the process is less stressful because there is one main point of contact throughout the project. However, there are a few trade-offs.

If you feel the need to control everything yourself, or want your architect to remain completely independent from the contractor, the traditional procurement route may suit you better.

There’s also the matter of architectural creativity, as builders aren’t usually valued for their architectural flair. Some bespoke architectural projects will therefore benefit from being fully developed before a contractor is appointed to do the construction.

FAQs

Can you use design and build for extensions and renovations?

While people tend to associate design and build with new-build homes, it works equally well for extensions, loft conversions and comprehensive refurbishments. These projects involve many of the same challenges as new homes and having one organisation managing the professionals and the tradespeople can remove a great deal of stress. For busy, time-poor homeowners, design and build can be an excellent solution.

When are traditional routes better?

If you’re building a highly bespoke home with a strong architectural vision, it’s often better to develop the design independently before appointing a contractor. Experienced self-builders who are happy to manage consultants, control procurement and can thrive in the chaos of a build will find that the traditional route gives them more flexibility, which their project may need.

A well-organised design and build company with experienced designers, good project managers and a commitment to producing properly coordinated technical information can deliver an outstanding project with fewer surprises, better cost control and a smoother construction process.

The key to making it work for your particular project starts with understanding precisely what service is being offered and knowing what’s included. Design and build differs from a custom build package, so my advice is to ask plenty of questions and make sure the technical design is detailed enough to demonstrate not only what is being built, but how it will comply with the building regulations and perform as a residence for decades to come.

Get these fundamentals right and a design and build package can be one of the most effective ways to deliver a successful self-build, extension, renovation or loft conversion.

Although the main point of using plug-in solar panels is to reduce your energy costs in the here and now, they still involve a level of investment that needs consideration.

And, while they are far from the costs of standard solar panels, is it safe to assume that as they are cheaper to buy upfront, the payback period will be quicker?

If, like us, you're trying to work out the cost vs savings vs payback equation, you're in the right place. We asked experts to crunch the numbers and here's what they came back with.

Cost vs savings for plug-in solar panels

Let's break this down into something that's easily understandable by tackling costs and energy savings first.

As plug-in solar panels can generally be set up and installed yourself (as our reviewer discovered for herself), there are no extra costs for hiring a professional to set them up. At the very most, if you're not a regular DIYer, and are using a wall-mounted version, you may need a general handyman with the right tools for drilling into brick walls.

That aside, the costs for plug-in solar panels vary depending on the size and where you buy them from. Legally compliant plug-in solar panels are the only ones you should ever be considering, and for a single panel you can expect to pay around the £500 mark, with a two-panel system costing upwards of £800.

So, what savings will you get for your investment?

“According to external research from Carbon Brief, published in April 2026, an 800W plug-in solar panel system costing around £500 could generate approximately 400kWh of usable electricity a year in a realistic setup, rising to around 820kWh if positioned optimally," said Uswitch's solar expert, Alvaro Iturmendi.

"This equates to roughly 1-2kWh of electricity per day on average, which, based on an electricity price of 27p per kWh, could save households around £105 a year on their energy bills."

However, as the technology is still relatively new, only time will tell if the generation vs savings will amount to as much as is hoped. As the data simply isn't available yet, Jon Skinner, founder of Glow Homes suggests erring on the side of caution if accepting these sums as fact.

"Plug-in solar panels are being sold as a shortcut to cheaper energy bills, but homeowners need to understand that you can't simply plug your way to instant savings. The sunshine might be free, but the equipment certainly isn't.

"An 800-watt plug-in system might generate an average of one to two units of electricity a day across the year, depending on its positioning and location. On a bright summer day, you'll get considerably more."

But what about using plug-in solar panels in winter? Despite the fact, like solar PV, they need daylight rather than sunlight, "on a miserable December afternoon, you might barely generate enough to make a cup of tea," he warns, which leads us nicely onto the next point – cost vs payback time.

Costs vs payback period for plug-in solar panels

Here is where the maths really needs examination say our experts, as anyone looking for a quick return on their investment may need to reassess their reasons for installing plug-in solar panels in the first place.

If you look at it in its most basic terms, if you pay around £500 for your plug-in solar panels and generate around £100 of savings a year, this "means the initial cost of the panels could be recovered in roughly five years. After this point, households could begin making net savings," says Alvaro Iturmendi.

“However, payback periods can vary," he confirms, "with other estimates suggesting it could take around four to seven years to recover the initial investment, depending on the cost of the system and how much of the electricity generated is used.”

Or, in other words, if recouping your investment is your main priority, you will have to accept that it may take a minimum of four years to do so, and as a result, all you will do in this time is pay off the cost of your panels, rather than saving on your energy bill.

And, picks up Jon Skinner, "with systems costing anywhere from £500 to £1,200, and typical annual bill savings estimated at £70 to £110, homeowners could realistically be looking at anything from five years to well over 15 years before they've recovered their investment.

"Spend £1,200 on a system that only saves you £70 a year and you're looking at more than 17 years just to break even," he adds.

The hidden catch

There's also one key point Jon Skinner is keen to point out that he thinks homeowners may forget to factor into the equation. Unlike solar PV which can store any electricity generated to a solar battery for use later on, it's not yet the case with plug-in solar panels. They aren't yet approved for use in this way, or for the Smart Export Guarantee.

"You don't save money on the electricity your panels generate," expands Jon, "you save money on the electricity they generate that you actually use. If you're out all day, your panels are shaded or they're pointing in the wrong direction, those impressive-looking savings projections can quickly unravel," he warns.

That said, Jon confirms that plug-in solar can certainly have value when installed in the right home and with the right goals in mind.

"I'm a huge advocate of solar technology, but homeowners need to look beyond the sticker price and calculate the actual return. A cheap system that takes 15 years to pay for itself isn't necessarily a bargain.

"But, plug-in solar can be a brilliant entry point for people who cannot install a full rooftop system, particularly renters and flat owners," he confirms. "My advice is simple: do the maths before you do the installation. Sunshine is free. Bad maths is expensive.”

In summary, the main issue with plug-in solar panels is that the data simply won't be available yet to give a highly accurate response.

However, as an add-on purchase to your home, that is costs less than standard solar panel costs, and as a piece of technology that you can take with you if you move home, perhaps the key is to see it less as an investment, and more of a energy bill bonus.

Are they worth it? It's a question only time will reveal the answer to, but with ongoing rising energy costs, anything that may help to reduce bills will likely still be seen by many homeowners as something worth pursuing.

If you wake up to condensation on your windows – despite having one of the best dehumidifiers – you might be feeling a little confused. After all, isn't that one of the things they're designed to remove?

However, while these damp-busting machines work wonders for removing excess moisture from the air, they're not a magic fix for every condensation problem – with things like their placement, capacity and filters affecting the results.

To find out why your windows are still wet while using a dehumidifier, our air quality experts have shared five potential reasons below.

1. You have a significant moisture problem

Dehumidifiers do a fantastic job of removing excess moisture from the air, but they shouldn't be treated as the only fix. You'll also need to find out whether (and why) you have a ongoing moisture problem.

“If the problem persists, look for a hidden source of moisture," says Simon Trenerry CSDV, Technical Manager at Safeguard Europe. "That could be a leak, penetrating damp coming through a wall, new plaster or screed that’s still drying out which can sometimes take months in new homes, or rising damp.”

Have a look around your home for visual signs, such as mould and mildew, as well as any accompanying musty smells, lifted flooring or peeling wallpaper. If you're struggling to work out where it's all coming from, it's worth getting a professional survey.

2. The type of windows you have

If your type of window has single glazing, older double glazing or aluminium frames without a thermal break, Simon Trenerry says they could be the reason behind your condensation.

"[They can] get so cold on a winter night that they attract condensation even when the room’s humidity is reasonable," he explains. "A dehumidifier lowers the moisture in the air, but it can’t warm up the glass, so upgrading to modern, thermally efficient glazing is the long-term fix."

3. You're using your dehumidifier incorrectly

If you're using your dehumidifier incorrectly, it's going to impact how effectively and efficiently it runs, which could lead to condensation forming more than it should.

Here are some of the most common dehumidifier mistakes:

It's the wrong capacity for the room: Before investing in a unit, you'll need to check that its the correct size for your room – many brands will state the recommended capacity to make this easier. "A smaller model might not be powerful enough for the job," says Chris Michael, founder of Meaco.

It's in the wrong position: This might sound obvious, but make sure your dehumidifier is in the best place, such as the same room as the problem – or leave internal doors open to allow air to circulate, recommends Simon Trenerry.

It's not been running long enough: The condensation might be forming because you're not leaving your dehumidifier to run long enough each day, says Chris.

The filter is blocked: If your filter is blocked or dirty, Chris says it won't be able to do its job properly. Always ensure you turn off the device before checking or changing it though.

Your dehumidifier isn't running when the moisture builds up: "A lot of people run their dehumidifier for a couple of hours in the evening and then switch it off," says Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables. "But if you've got two people sleeping in a bedroom with the door shut, they're still adding moisture to the air throughout the night. So really you want to check the humidity levels first thing in the morning as well."

4. Your curtains and blinds are shut

“Curtains and blinds can make things worse. Heavy curtains or closed blinds trap a pocket of cold air against the glass, which is why window condensation is often at its worst first thing in the morning," explains Simon Trenerry.

With this in mind, he recommends opening them as soon as you wake up and, if you can, leaving a gap at the bottom overnight. It's also worth aiming for a low, steady temperature in your bedroom to prevent it from getting too cold, as well as keeping trickle vents open and airing the room each morning.

5. Your window has a cold spot

If your window condensation is appearing at the bottom or around the edges of the glass, Martyn Fowler says this can give you a clue to the cause.

"The edges of double-glazed units are often colder than the centre. That's why you sometimes get a wet strip around the frame even when the middle of the glass is dry," he says.

While a dehumidifier will help to reduce the moisture in the air, Martyn explains that it's not going to be able to remove the cold spot – and you'll need to investigate the glazing and window seals if it's an ongoing issue.

The underlying advice is that a dehumidifier can only do so much if you haven't addressed the root cause of the condensation.

Found this helpful? You may also want to read our guide on how dehumidifiers work or discover the best type of dehumidifier for cold rooms.

I've been testing the Meaco Grisos Smart 2kW PTC Fan Heater for a couple of weeks and let me tell you, I am obsessed. When the weather gets colder, I'm too impatient to wait around for my underfloor heating to warm up, and sometimes I need a quick boost from one of the best portable heaters.

While it is on the pricier side compared to other models I've tested this year, Meaco has packed in a load of cool smart features that other brands are missing, such as a PIR sensor, open window detection and calm mode.

To find out my full verdict on the Meaco Grisos Smart Fan Heater (available on Meaco), including how easy it is to set up, and how I rate its performance, keep reading.

Meaco Grisos Smart 2kW PTC Fan Heater: Specs

Meaco Grisos Smart 2kW PTC Fan Heater: Setting it up

The heater arrived in perfect condition, well protected by cardboard inserts – and, to my delight, with minimal plastic wrapping! The matte stone finish looks stylish and modern, as does the touchscreen manual control pad and LED display.

The heater sits sturdily on my floor and unlike other models which can feel a bit wobbly, I have no concerns about it toppling over. The built-in handle and lightweight design make it easy to carry from room-to-room, and the cable is a suitable length for my needs.

There are three different ways to control the heater – via remote, manual pad or app – but I find the latter is the easiest to use. Otherwise, you keep having to refer to the instruction manual to work out what the icons mean (though many are self-explanatory).

It was pretty easy to connect it to my phone – I just had to download the app, hold down the oscillation button for three seconds and select the device in the app. Within a couple of minutes, I could access all of the controls and adjust everything from the desired temperature to the angle it's positioned in.

My only criticism is that the remote control design is a little bulky and sometimes isn't responsive – but this doesn't bother me too much, as I'd rather use the app anyway. Meaco also says it can magnetically attach to the heater (like the MeacoFan Sefte Pro Air Circulator I also tested), but I wasn't able to get this to work.

Meaco Grisos Smart 2kW PTC Fan Heater: Performance

I've tested numerous portable heaters this year, but the Meaco Grisos Smart 2kW PTC Fan Heater has stood out for all the right reasons, thanks to its array of energy-saving smart features and reliable performance.

While many heaters will continuously run until you turn them off, this one lets you set your desired temperature and will automatically turn on and off as the room temperature fluctuates – helping you to prevent a nasty heating bill at the end of the month.

There's even the option to turn on a PIR sensor, which can detect human presence to influence the heating settings, as well as open-window detection, which pauses heating when the temperature suddenly drops.

Perhaps the most unique feature of this fan is its oscillation capabilities, which allow it to tilt between 45 and 80 degrees horizontally to reach whole room consistently – which is perfect if you're heating a home office like me. You can also manually tilt the device vertically to find the perfect position.

As someone who needs total silence when concentrating on a work email, I was pleased to see that there was a Calm Mode, which reduces the sound to as low as 21 dB, as well as an energy-saving mode for reducing costs. There's also a Manual Mode (with six power settings to choose from), an Auto Mode (which adjusts itself), and a Smart Energy Mode (to reduce your bills).

One thing I usually hate about portable heaters is the chemical smell they often produce, but I'm very happy to report that this one has a very minimal scent. You can barely notice it, and it only lasts a second when first turned on.

The fan also boasts other great features, such as a child lock, light on/off control, a timer from one to seven hours, and automatic shut-off after eight hours of continuous use.

Meaco Grisos Smart 2kW PTC Fan Heater: Final verdict

The Meaco Grisos Smart 2kW PTC Fan Heater ticks all of my boxes: it looks good, feels sturdy, and can effectively heat my open-plan living room without needing to blast it all day long.

No, it's not the cheapest portable heater out there, but I think the price tag is deserved given its premium feel, energy-efficiency and smart capabilities. Meaco also offers a five-year heater guarantee for extra peace of mind.

There might be more affordable options on the market, but you may save in the long run by investing in this one, as the Energy Saving Mode turns it on and off depending on the environment.

However, if you're not quite ready to commit £129 to a heater and aren't too fussed about the smart controls, Meaco has also launched a budget-friendly version for £69 that can heat rooms of up to 20m².

Want to compare it with other portable heaters? We've also tested the Electrolux 2kW Digital Oil-Free Radiator and the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater.

One of the most frustrating things about any kind of home improvement, be that a full-on renovation project or smaller redecorating jobs is that, once done, they highlight all the other aspects of your house that need attention.

This has certainly been the case around my house ever since we finished renovating it almost 10 years ago. While the kitchen renovation has stood the test of time pretty well, there are definitely areas that need some attention, with the kitchen tap top of the list. The style didn't fit in with the rest of the decor, it had started to leak, was wobbling around in the sink hole and offered nothing in the way of fancy features.

I have long coveted other peoples' boiling water taps for their time-saving benefits – no more waiting for the kettle boil or even have one at all cluttering up the worktops. Having finally got my hands such a tap – and a pretty swanky one at that – my husband and I set about tackling the job ourselves. While it wasn't all plain sailing, it was definitely easier than I expected.

1. Which boiling water tap did I choose?

The tap we fitted is the Design+ Pro Pull 4 in 1 Brushed Brass Boiling Hot Water Tap from Wodar.

I chose this for a number of reasons – mainly because I loved the look of it but also due to the fact that I knew it had won several awards. The compact water tank was also a draw as we were limited on space under the sink – plus fitting a kitchen tap wasn't something I had done before and this one promised simple DIY installation.

I was also really drawn to the fact that it has a pull-out spray nozzle – our kitchen sink is really hard to keep clean and I felt that this would make the job much easier (which it does).

2. Gathering together the tools

Obviously before we got started we needed to pull together all the equipment we'd need for installation to go smoothly.

Thankfully, not too many tools were needed and, in all likelihood, if you've carried out any kind of easy DIY jobs in the past, you'll have most of these around.

All that's needed is a Phillips screwdriver, adjustable wrench and a pair of insulated waterproof gloves. Additionally, you might want to grab a few old towels and a torch to making seeing into dark corners of your under-sink cabinet easier.

Shop tap fitting toolkit

3. Remove the old tap and waste

Obviously we first had to remove our old kitchen tap which no longer suited our kitchen design. First we turned off the water supply and drained the residual water from the tap.

Next, we disconnected the water supply pipes. We used a wrench to loosen the large nut and unscrewed the hot and cold water supplies from the tap tails.

Finally, we unscrewed the base plate on the underside of the sink. There was a long bolt holding it in place and we just used our wrench to release it. After that, the old tap could simply be pulled out, leaving an empty hole in the sink.

4. Unboxing the new tap

Within the very impressive packaging was everything we needed to get installation underway. I have to admit that when we first set eyes on the tap I was reminded slightly of some kind of strange Dr. Who alien due to what looked like a mass of tendrils hanging from the tap itself – the sheer number seemed daunting but, thanks to clear labelling, on closer inspection, felt less so.

Included in the range of pipes and tubes were the hot and cold water pipes, heating machine tube and plug-in filter hose, along with a selection of other connectors which were all push-fit, apart from the pipework which would connect to the mains water supply.

Also in the box was the gravity ball for the pull-out spray nozzle, a microfibre cleaning cloth and a range of other fittings, including lots of spares – something I found lacking when fitting some of our other kitchen appliances.

In separate boxes were the filter bottle and all its connections and the heating machine that would provide the boiling water, which had simple hot and cold outlets (in red and blue) and came with the plug needed to go into the electrical socket under the sink.

5. Get the tap into place

In order to deliver the boiling water, a water heater is needed for this type of kitchen tap. This is fitted beneath the kitchen sink and is surprisingly simple to do. Simply place the heater next to the waste pipe and mark its height on the pipe before drilling a hole just below this mark to fit the drainage kit to.

Next comes the tap. Luckily for us, the tap hole in our sink was the right size to take the new tap so it was simply a case of popping the base of the tap into the hole, threading the multiple pipes and tubes through first. In all honesty it was a bit of a squeeze but working one-by-one helped.

Once in place, you work from beneath the sink, using gaskets to hold all the pipes together, ending with a copper fastener that is screwed into place. I found this part a little tricky to get right. While this was partly due to the fact that our under-sink unit is a bit cramped, it seems like there is a bit of a knack to it, but after a few attempts it was fine.

6. Connecting all the pipework

Despite the number of tubes and pipes that initially seemed a little perplexing, this was one of the easiest phases of the project thanks to the fact that they were all so clearly labelled.

We began by connecting to the cold water mains then all the rest of the fittings simply pushed into place with no issues. It was even simple to attach the gravity ball to the end of the pull-out nozzle.

The water heater was also easy to attach – there are just three outlets which are all colour coded.

7. Getting the whole thing up and running

Once everything was in place we could heat up the water in the tank and start enjoying the boiling water function.

Again, this was easy. The power cord for the heater simply plugs in. You then set the heater to your desired temperature – we set it to 98°C and it took around five minutes to get to this.

Usefully, the tank is able to deliver 1.6 litres of continuously hot water, although obviously your model may differ from this. Surprisingly, I have found that boiling water taps can be more energy efficient than boiling a kettle repeatedly too.

Final verdict

While installation wasn't all plain sailing (getting the gaskets over the mass of pipework required a little bit of fiddling around, mainly due to our awkward under-sink space), I honestly never thought it would be so simple to install a boiling water tap on a DIY basis.

Obviously models vary, but for us, thanks to the clear labelling of all the parts, it really was a simple case of matching up the colour-coded tubes and pipes to the various outlets and wastes we already had.

The kettle has now been resigned to the back of a cupboard, we are all enjoying instant boiling water for hot drinks and cooking, and the sink has never looked cleaner thanks to the pull-out spray. All that's needed now is to change our kitchen cabinet hardware for brushed brass to get the whole scheme looking cohesive.

Shop other boiling water taps

FAQs

Do boiling water taps require lots of maintenance?

There is no getting away from the fact that boiling water taps, particularly those offering other functions, such as filtered water, cost more than standard taps – so looking after them to ensure they remain in tip-top condition makes sense.

In terms of boiling water tap maintenance, along with cleaning them using the method recommended by the manufacturer, it is also wise to give the tap regular checks for leaks and limescale build-up, although ensuring you change the filter regularly should help with this.

Swapping my kitchen tap was just the start of upgrading the kitchen appliances – I am now starting to look at the different types of cooker out there as our range-style model has an old electric hob which is so slow to respond compared to induction or gas. Watch this space.

As anyone that has ever gone for dinner with me will know, I'm not great at sharing. Seriously, people have nearly lost a hand for daring to steal my chips. So who knows what I was thinking when I set my heart on a house with a shared driveway?

Perhaps it's because I loved the property – a Victorian three-bed in Bedfordshire that cost a fraction of the price it would have closer to London. So much so that the driveway situation didn't even enter my mind. That was, until I moved in.

Only then did the impact of my decision really hit home. But despite the horror stories you may have heard, sharing a driveway is certainly survivable, and can even be beneficial, provided you know your rights, communicate, and are considerate. I've shared the same driveway with two different neighbours now and it's (mostly) harmonious. Here's why.

1. Know your legal rights

Understanding what access and usage rights you have is crucial in the case of a shared driveway – and ideally, you should clarify this before you buy the property. My solicitor did make me aware of my rights before I moved in, and that put me in the best place to discuss 'drive etiquette' with my neighbour from the off.

"My advice to buyers would be not to dismiss a property simply because it has a shared driveway, but equally not to underestimate the potential problems," says Robin Edwards, a buying agent at Curetons Property Finders.

"Make sure your solicitor investigates the legal arrangements thoroughly before you exchange contracts. It's much easier to walk away from a problematic arrangement than resolve a dispute with a neighbour after moving in."

A solicitor will typically check the property's deeds and Land Registry documents, to see who owns what land, and who has what rights over it.

“Start with the paperwork because that is where the answer almost always lies," says Shinead Wilson, a property litigation partner at Keystone Law.

"Get official copies of the register and title plan from HM Land Registry. For a right granted since 13 October 2003, the benefit is noted on the title of the property that enjoys it and a notice of the burden on the title of the property that bears it. So, check both your own title and your neighbour's."

"Next, look at the deed or transfer that created the right. The decisive words are usually in the original conveyance or transfer," adds Shinead. "That wording should define exactly what you may do on foot, by vehicle, at what times, and for what purposes."

Top tip: If you live in an older house, not every right of way will necessarily be spelled out. "One can also arise by long use – broadly, 20 years' use 'as of right' (openly, without force, and without the owner's permission) under the doctrine of lost modern grant or the Prescription Act 1832," says Shinead. "And a right you already enjoy can pass to you automatically on a sale, because a conveyance is deemed to carry with the land all the 'ways ...liberties, privileges, easements, rights, and advantages' enjoyed with it."

2. Put their bins out and be a good neighbour

This is something my neighbour and I do for each other almost every week, and we always check in to see if we can help when the other is on holiday, whether it's putting out the bins, collecting parcels or checking that the house is secure.

"It’s the little things that can make all the difference when sharing a driveway," says Sandra Richardson, Planning Officer at Luton Borough Council. "If you’re putting your bins away, why not bring your neighbour’s in too? It saves them having to stop the car and move the bins when they get home. It’s a small gesture, but one that people appreciate and that can help keep the peace between neighbours."

It's also a good ideas to keep those bins organised, perhaps with wheelie bin storage, so they aren't unsightly or stray into the shared space due to a sudden gust of wind. Address any very smelly bins, too – you could always liaise and order a bin cleaning service on a regular basis, and might even save some money if you share a subscription.

3. Discuss access and parking

My own shared driveway consists of a gap between my neighbour's Victorian semi and mine, just wide enough for a single car, and with each property having their own parking space set into the side return at the back – a common set-up for shared driveways.

As ours is a busy road (and to keep insurance premiums down), we've always used that space for parking. But that does mean being considerate. For example, when my husband works late and arrives home in the wee small hours, he will park on the road so as not to wake the neighbours with a rumbling engine.

Our neighbours have created off-road parking in their front garden, but are always mindful when they park so as not to encroach on the shared part of the drive. And when any property maintenance is required, or a skip ordered, we always discuss it beforehand if it's going to impact parking access.

“Parking is often a major source of tension when sharing a driveway," says Sandra Richardson. "Say you've momentarily pulled up to unload shopping or pack the car for a holiday. You might think you’re only going to be a few minutes, but if that turns into 45 minutes, you could be blocking your neighbour’s access without realising it.

"Even if they weren’t planning to go anywhere, that can cause frustration," she continues. "The key is communication: if you know you’re going to block the driveway, let your neighbours know in advance so they can move their car if needed and everyone knows where they stand."

4. Keep things tidy

Keeping a shared driveway clean, tidy and free from weeds is a simple but effective way to maintain a positive relationship with your neighbours, as I've discovered to my benefit. "In some cases, one property owner might be responsible for two-thirds of the driveway, while their neighbour owns the remaining third," says Sandra. "However, rather than focusing solely on where one person’s responsibility ends and another’s begins, taking a more considerate approach can make a real difference."

“If you’re already out there weeding your part of the driveway, why not take a few extra minutes to clear the weeds from the whole area? It’s a small gesture, but it shows that you’re thinking about your neighbour and taking pride in the shared space. These little acts of consideration can go a long way towards building goodwill and preventing minor frustrations from turning into bigger disagreements."

The same goes for litter picking, or perhaps pressure washing the drive. If you're already there doing the job, and know you won't cause any adverse affects, your efforts will almost always be appreciated.

5. Discuss building work, however small

When you share a driveway with a neighbour and either of you is planning building work, communication is key. My newest neighbour carried out a small extension that encroached into her parking space. The finished extension has done nothing to affect our shared access, and she was careful to ensure a new window didn't compromise our privacy.

"If you or your neighbour is planning an extension, check the plans carefully and speak to each other beforehand, particularly if the work could affect access to garages, parking or privacy," says Sandra. "Even if planning permission isn’t required, it’s considerate to let your neighbours know what’s happening.

“If you’re the neighbour affected, don’t be afraid to raise concerns early. For example, if new windows would overlook your property, you could ask whether they could be repositioned or fitted with obscured glass. It’s much better to have an open conversation than allow frustrations to build."

“Think about the construction work itself, too," adds Sandra. "Scaffolding, deliveries and building materials can obstruct a shared driveway, so discuss access arrangements in advance. Sometimes, agreeing to a temporary restriction can help the work finish more quickly, and speaking directly to the builders can often lead to practical solutions."

6. Renovate the drive together

My neighbour and I are lucky that we have similar tastes, and are currently planning a driveway makeover with pamments and gravel, sharing the cost. However, the biggest shared driveway horror stories usually involve disagreements over the look and maintenance of the drive, often with one neighbour putting a fence up or growing a hedge between properties.

"For example, one neighbour might own two-thirds of the driveway and assume they can put up a fence or hedge along that boundary, without realising that their neighbour may have a right of access over the entire space," says Sandra.

"Rather than putting up physical boundaries that could restrict access or create tension, I’d encourage neighbours to talk about how they want the shared driveway to look. Whether it’s adding plants, tidying up the edges or sharing the cost of resurfacing the drive."

It's not a good idea to book a contractor over your neighbour's head. "Involve them in choosing the contractor so you both feel part of the project," says Paula Higgins, chief executive at HomeOwners Alliance. "Agree the work, materials, drainage, timing and costs in writing, and be clear about how everyone will access their home while work is underway.

"Also, distinguish necessary repairs from improvements you would simply prefer," adds Paula. "Don’t assume your neighbour must help pay for a more expensive finish. Check with the council whether planning permission or highways consent is needed, particularly if you’re changing drainage or access onto the road. There are no separate driveway building regulations for a shared driveway, but the council may consider its width, visibility, the number of homes served and whether vehicles can enter and leave safely."

Q&A

What should I do if there's a dispute over my shared driveway?

If you end up involved in a neighbour dispute, “start with a conversation, not a claim form," says Shinead Wilson. "Most driveway rows are about parking, gates or obstructions, and most are cheaper to solve by being reasonable and having a conversation."

If direct discussion fails, establish who owns the driveway, what rights each property has and what the documents actually say about its use. "If the position is unclear to you, ask a solicitor to advise you who owns what and what rights each party has over the driveway," says Patrick Ansell, legal head of litigation at Taylor Rose. “Meanwhile, keep a clear record of the problem, including relevant correspondence and photographs where appropriate."

"Mediation is then often the sensible next step as it is quicker, cheaper, and less corrosive to a relationship that you may have to live alongside for years," suggests Shinead.

"If it comes to the law, the key test is whether the interference is substantial: there is no claim if you can still use the driveway 'as conveniently after as before the obstruction'.

"A single gate may be fine; three gates in under 100 metres has been held to go too far, and parking is usually only a problem if it actually blocks the right of way," she adds. "Interference of a substantial kind is treated as a private nuisance, which is what gives you a right to sue."

Can I change the rights over a shared driveway?

Yes you can. But, as a rule, only by agreement, and only once properly documented. You cannot simply rewrite the arrangement to suit yourself.

"To release or vary an easement so that it takes effect in law, the parties should use a deed," explains Shinead Wilson. "If the land that benefits from the right has since been split into several plots, every plot owner must join the deed for the change to bite.

"A looser arrangement, for example, a letter or an informal understanding, is risky: to have any effect in equity it must at least be in writing, and an oral or informal agreement will not bind a future buyer who knew nothing about it," she warns. "Once the change is agreed, entries on the titles at HM Land Registry should be updated to match."

“What you cannot do is change the position unilaterally," she adds. "A landowner who simply offers an alternative, equally convenient route does not thereby extinguish the original right, nor can the owner of the driveway build over it or block it in a way that substantially obstructs the right, unless that power was expressly reserved.

"And a right is not lost merely because nobody has used it for years: abandonment requires a fixed intention never to use it again. In one case, even 175 years of non-use was not enough,” she notes.

How do shared driveways work on new-build estates?

"Arrangements can be more complicated on a new-build estate, where a shared driveway may belong to individual homeowners, the developer or a management company," explains Paula Higgins. "Check the title documents and transfer deed to establish ownership, access issues and parking rights, and who is responsible for maintenance."

"That maintenance may be paid for through an estate management charge, even if your house is freehold. But don’t assume that charge covers your particular driveway: some shared drives remain the responsibility of the households they serve."

Will a shared driveway devalue a property?

To answer that, we spoke to Robin Edwards. "Shared driveways can certainly put buyers off, although much depends on the layout, the legal arrangements and the neighbours," he says.

"In my experience, buyers are generally wary of anything that requires relying on a neighbour's cooperation," Robin continues. "The biggest concerns tend to be disputes over parking, blocked access and disagreements about who pays for any maintenance or repairs. Even something as simple as a neighbour regularly leaving their bins in the wrong place can easily become a source of frustration."

That said, Robin assured me that a shared driveway isn't necessarily a dealbreaker. "They can provide valuable off-street parking, particularly in urban areas where space is at a premium, and sharing maintenance costs can also be an advantage, provided everyone agrees on their responsibilities," he says.

How can I make a shared driveway palatable to buyers?

Start by making sure the driveway is well presented, with bins arranged in an orderly fashion, cars parked neatly and stay on top of all maintenance.

"From a resale perspective, a poorly arranged shared driveway can absolutely affect a property's value and marketability," says Robin Edwards. "Buyers don't like the prospect of inheriting someone else's neighbour dispute, and any existing disagreements can really complicate a sale."

"Conversely where the arrangements are straightforward, properly documented and work well in practice, there's little reason why a shared driveway should be a major concern."

For more help on getting any driveway design right, whether it's shared or single, see the advice in choosing driveway materials, and if you opt for gravel, find out the best ways to stop it moving.

With energy efficiency a number one priority for homeowners and the Government alike, the drive towards the electrification of technological and heating appliances in our homes is a priority.

The Smart Secure Electricity Systems (SSES) Programme, overseen by the UK Department for Energy Security and Net Zero (DESNZ), is therefore moving ahead with its mandatory regulatory framework for Energy Smart Appliances (ESAs).

With a full roll-out target date of 31 December 2027, the Energy Smart Appliance Regulations will set out plans for all new electrical appliances to have smart controls. But what does this mean and how does it affect you? Here's what I know so far.

What does the Energy Smart Appliance Regulations include?

Right now the Government is spearheading a transformation of the electricity system in preparation for greater demand. The Clean Power 2030 Action Plan highlights the critical need for a substantial increase in flexibility to achieve our clean energy goals.

The Clean Flexibility Roadmap sets out a very clear delivery path to 2030 and beyond. The Roadmap highlights the role of flexibility in integrating renewable energy and the rising electricity demand, and envisions a future where consumers are central to a smart and secure energy system.

In basic terms, the Energy Smart Appliance Regulations will require all new electric appliances, including EV chargers, electrical heating appliances such as heat pumps (up to 45kW) and electric storage heaters (in fact pretty much all fitted electrical heating), to have smart controls.

But, this is not just simple manufacturer controls such as apps, timers and weather compensation that you'll be familiar with when creating a smart home system. It also means that all smart electrical appliances must be able to allow homeowners to switch between energy suppliers to make best use of off-peak tariffs, and also respond to grid signals to shift or reduce electricity use during peak strain periods.

So why do you need to know about it when it's not fully taking force until the end of 2027? Not least of all, understanding what it is and why it matters will help ensure that when you invest in any products, particularly those that are higher spend, they will be compatible with the new regulations.

Benefits of Energy Smart Appliance Regulations

At the heart of this transformation is Consumer-Led Flexibility (CLF) which gives homeowners the choice to use automation to shift more of their electricity demand to off peak times when the grid is less loaded and energy is cheaper.

Through greater participation with smart technologies like Electric Vehicle Smart Charge points (EVSCPs), heat pumps and other Electric Heating Appliances (EHAs), and battery storage, we should all see reductions in energy bills, and be able to support a more resilient and cost effective electricity grid.

According to some of the leading energy suppliers, households that do not generally use electricity at peak times (from 4pm to 7pm) could save over £200 a year by switching from the price cap tariff to a tariff that changes through the day based on market rates.

Clearly each household would need to understand their energy use, be sure that the smart technology delivers according to their needs, and not override the system in order to reap the full rewards.

Quicker repairs and maintenance will be available

In the quest for energy efficiency, fitting modern technologies to our homes is a great step in the right direction, but there is clearly a bigger picture. The technologies don't just need to be operated in an optimised way and set up to compliment our lifestyle requirements, but they also need to be able to be more accessible to the manufacturers and installers.

Some critics might say this is an invasion of privacy, but I believe it is a positive and useful step. Think about your phone, tablet or computer. They are forever getting updates and every now and then, when you need help, you can allow someone to log onto the device to help overcome issues.

This is no different from the intention of the Energy Smart Appliance Regulations.

In the past, when we have had an issue with our heating system, we have called the installers who then send out an engineer. They then come to the house, diagnose the issue and make a few adjustments or, in many cases, do a temporary repair while they order the spares and then rebook to come back on another day.

Modern smart controls will help allow service engineers to log onto the software and make adjustments without coming to the home. They will also be able to diagnose many issues, allowing them to order the right parts and bring the right tools with them when they do come – saving both time and money.

Smart Energy Appliance Regulations and the National Grid

As UK homes are slowly ditching fossil fuels and moving over to electro-tech homes, this will inevitably put more strain on the electricity grid as we shift from fossil fuel heating, to electric heating and electric energy systems.

The National Grid therefore want to control smart appliances in order to avoid system overload. At busy times it wants to be able to turn systems down, or even off, and then put them back on again when the demand is lower.

And, as well as controlling smart appliances, the National Grid wants to be able to control home battery systems, and potentially vehicle battery systems when vehicle- to grid or vehicle- to home systems become the norm.

The critical high demand times are the three hours from 4pm to 7pm in the evening. The grid currently has to cater its capacity for maximum demand. If the grid can be managed during these times it potentially saves billions of pounds of investment that would otherwise be required to create a grid that supplies maximum energy, for just a very short time.

How will manufacturers conform to the new rules?

Manufacturers face strict requirements to ensure that all appliances are smart enabled. Devices must be capable of dynamic Demand Side Response (DSR) which is the function whereby homeowners can choose for their heat pumps and other electrical heating appliances to automatically shift, or modulate their energy consumption, in response to time-of-use tariffs and external flexibility signals, without lowering comfort levels.

In other words, you will have the option to avoid peak electricity times and tariffs in a far easier way than you currently do as the DSR capability must be provided at no extra cost, or complex configuration, to the consumer. The homeowner must be able to easily switch between tariffs, and more importantly, opt out of the smart configurations at any time.

To avoid causing grid surges, devices must also include safeguards which stagger when appliances resume high-energy operations after a pause or power outage.

Manufacturers must also meet rigorous cybersecurity and data privacy rules. The regulation is structured to place the financial and technical compliance burden onto the manufacturer, ensuring a frictionless transition for the end user.

As part of the roll out, there is also the addition of Regulation 40C that requires manufacturers to provide instructions in an accessible format that are easy to follow and not over-burdened with jargon.

Before you rush off and ask every supplier if they are compliant it's important to be aware that at the time of writing (October 2026) the finer details of the Energy Smart Appliance Regulations have not been completely finalised.

The closer we get to the deadline the more information we will get. Personally, I believe this is a positive step and think that smart controls are good. It will make things such as using off peak energy tariffs to make heat pump running costs cheaper far easier. And, you of course will still have the option choose to opt out of making your appliances accessible to others, but I suspect once you’ve experienced the positives, you probably won’t want to.

If you’ve invested in a dehumidifier to tackle condensation and damp this winter, you’d be forgiven for plugging it in wherever there’s a free socket and leaving it to get on with the job.

But where you put it can make a huge difference to how well it works. A dehumidifier needs to draw air in and push drier air back out, so tuck it in the wrong corner, push it up against a wall or leave it beside a radiator, and it could struggle to pull much moisture from the air at all.

To help you get the most out of your unit – whether it’s one of the best dehumidifiers on the market or a budget buy – we asked the experts where it should (and shouldn’t) go, room by room.

Where is the best place to put a dehumidifier?

The best place to put a dehumidifier will depend on whether you’re tackling one problem room or the whole house. Here are the 4 spots where experts say it will work hardest.

1. A landing or hallway

If you’re trying to lower humidity across your whole home, the experts agree that a central spot is your best bet.

“A central position, usually the upstairs landing or hallway, works best,” says Chris Michaels, founder of Meaco. “With internal doors open, the dehumidifier can draw moisture from the bedrooms and bathroom without needing to be moved. The same principle applies downstairs, where a hallway position can serve the kitchen and living room.”

Pros: Treats several rooms at once and keeps the unit out of the way.

Cons: How effective it is will vary depending on your home. As Scott Byrom, energy and appliance expert at The Energy Shop, points out, “the results will depend on the size and layout of your home and the capacity of the unit.”

2. The bedroom

“A bedroom is often one of the best places to use a dehumidifier because of the constant moisture we add to the air while we sleep through our breathing,” explains Jack Duffy, small appliance expert at AO. “If you regularly wake up to condensation on windows or notice the room feels damp, a dehumidifier can help create a more comfortable environment and reduce the risk of mould developing over time.”

Pros: Targets moisture right where it’s created and can help stop window condensation before it starts.

Cons: Some models can be noisy. “Some models produce a low level of noise, which may bother light sleepers,” says Jack. “If you’re concerned about that, I’d recommend running it during the day or choosing a model specifically designed to operate quietly.”

Noel Fok, CEO and co-founder of EcoAir, adds that desiccant models tend to be quieter, running “at levels as low as 33dBA, so if noise is an issue, check before you buy.”

3. A utility room

“If you’re regularly drying clothes indoors, the utility room is arguably the ideal place for a dehumidifier,” says Jack Duffy. “Wet laundry releases a significant amount of moisture into the air, and if that moisture isn’t managed, it can quickly spread throughout the home and contribute to condensation and damp problems elsewhere.”

To stop that happening, Chris Michael recommends placing your dehumidifier, “near the clothes rack, with the door closed,” so it can tackle the moisture before it escapes into the rest of your home.

Pros: Speeds up drying times and stops moisture spreading to the rest of the house.

Cons: These rooms tend to be tight on space. “Utility rooms are often compact spaces,” explains Jack. “If the appliance is squeezed between other household items or positioned too close to walls or washing machines, airflow can be restricted and the dehumidifier won’t perform as efficiently as it should.” So, if you’re planning a new laundry space, it’s worth factoring in room for a dehumidifier alongside your small utility room ideas.

4. The kitchen

Noticing steamy windows while the pasta's on? You’re not imagining it. “The kitchen is another room that produces a surprising amount of moisture,” says Jack Duffy. “Cooking, running the dishwasher or even just boiling the kettle, all release water vapour into the air. A dehumidifier can help manage that excess humidity and reduce condensation on colder surfaces.”

If you have an open-plan kitchen-diner, moisture can drift into the rest of the space too. That’s when a dehumidifier positioned nearby, rather than squeezed between appliances, can really help.

Pros: Helps reduce condensation on colder surfaces such as windows and external walls.

Cons: It shouldn’t be your first line of defence. “Cooker hoods or kitchen extractor fans will typically be more effective than relying solely on a dehumidifier,” Jack adds. “Think of it as a useful backup rather than a replacement for proper kitchen ventilation.”

Shop dehumidifiers

What is the best position for a dehumidifier?

Once you’ve chosen the best room for a dehumidifier, the next question is where in that room to put it, and according to the experts, the key is giving it plenty of space to breathe.

Simon Oram, senior category manager for electrical at City Plumbing, recommends placing the unit “in a central location with free airflow, ideally on a flat, level surface near the source of moisture or cold spots prone to condensation. Keep it at least 30cm away from walls, furniture, and curtains to ensure intake vents and outlets aren’t blocked.”

For drying laundry, he says to put it next to your clothes airer rather than directly beneath it, where drips could land on the unit.

Where are the worst places to put a dehumidifier?

Just as important as knowing where to put a dehumidifier is knowing where not to. Put it in one of these spots and it could end up working harder for very little reward, or not be safe to use at all.

1. Inside a bathroom

It might seem like the obvious choice, but a bathroom is one of the worst places for most dehumidifiers. Your bathroom extractor fan should be doing the heavy lifting here. “If you have a good extractor fan, that should still be your first line of defence,” says Jack Duffy.

If you do want extra help, the safest option is to position your dehumidifier just outside. “We don’t recommend using Meaco dehumidifiers inside a bathroom, as they are not IP-rated for bathroom use,” says Chris Michael. “Positioning one outside, with the bathroom door open, is best.”

If you’re set on using a dehumidifier in the bathroom itself, Noel Fok says you’ll need “a water-resistant dehumidifier, with a high IP rating (IP24)”.

And if you’re still battling mould in your bathroom, it’s worth checking for the signs your extractor fan isn’t working properly.

2. Next to a radiator

It’s tempting to tuck a dehumidifier beside a radiator, especially if that’s where you dry your washing. But it’s one of the most common placement mistakes, and it can throw off its readings.

“Keep it away from direct heat sources, such as radiators, which can affect the conditions around its humidity sensor,” cautions Scott Byrom. And Simon Orman agrees that positioning it right next to a radiator “misleads the unit’s internal humidistat.”

That’s because warm air can hold more moisture than cool air, so the air right beside a radiator reads as drier than the rest of the room. Your dehumidifier may think the job’s done and switch itself off early, leaving damp corners and cold windows untouched.

3. Tucked into a corner or a cupboard

When floor space is tight, it may seem like a good idea to hide a dehumidifier out of the way – whether that’s behind the sofa or inside a cupboard. But keeping it out of sight can also keep it from doing its job.

“The most frequent mistake is pushing the unit directly flush against a wall or tucking it into a tight corner, which stifles air intake and lowers efficiency,” says Simon Byrom. A dehumidifier needs a steady flow of air moving in and out to work properly. Block its vents and it will have to work harder, for longer, to make any difference to the room.

Cupboards are a particular problem. “If you’re trying to dry a whole room, shutting the unit inside a cupboard will limit its effect,” says Scott Orman. “Some models are suitable for drying enclosed spaces, but only when used with the required clearance.”

So if you’re tackling damp in a wardrobe or understairs cupboard, check your model’s instructions first. Otherwise, give it a spot with at least 30cm of clear space around it, as Simon recommends.

4. In draughty or cold, unheated rooms (with the wrong model)

According to Simon Byrom, dehumidifiers are, “largely pointless in open, draughty, or outdoor-vented spaces (like an open garage or a room with open windows), as you will end up trying to dehumidify the outdoor air.”

Similarly, if you’re putting a dehumidifier in a cold room – like a garage, loft or unheated spare room – the type of dehumidifier you use is important. “A desiccant dehumidifier is recommended for any spaces where the ambient room temperature is likely to fall below 15 degrees Celsius, as its performance will remain consistent at temperatures as low as 1°C,” explains Noel Fok. Compressor models, on the other hand, “will become less effective as temperatures fall.”

FAQs

Should you keep doors open or closed when running a dehumidifier?

The answer will depend on what you’re trying to achieve. If you want to dry out the whole house, the experts recommend keeping doors open between rooms to support your appliance and help humidity balance naturally. But if you’re targeting one room, such as when drying laundry, they say you should close the door.

Likewise, you should always keep external windows shut while the unit is running. “Keep external windows and doors closed while it’s running so you’re treating a defined space,” says Scott Byrom. “You should still ventilate your home regularly and use extractor fans when cooking or showering.”

Can a dehumidifier draw moisture from other rooms?

Yes, to a point. “A dehumidifier can have wider impacts beyond the room it’s placed in,” says Jack Duffy. “Moisture naturally moves around a home as air circulates through hallways and open doors, so a unit can gradually pull moisture from neighbouring rooms too.”

But if you’re dealing with one specific problem area, he adds, “you’ll usually get better and faster results by putting the appliance directly where that moisture is being created.

For larger homes, one unit may not be enough. “Larger homes with several different floors could benefit from 2-3 smaller dehumidifiers if humidity is an issue throughout,” says Noel Fok.

Before you plug your dehumidifier in and forget about it, take a minute to think about where it's going. A few centimetres of breathing space, a shut window and a spot away from the radiator could be all it takes to make it work harder for you. If you're still fighting a losing battle with moisture, find out which condensation hacks actually work and which are a waste of time.

Included in a flurry of announcements to prevent rising energy bills and a £100 energy payment for some homes in England, two measures were proposed in the autumn budget that will directly impact homebuilding in the UK.

The first was that the Chancellor made a commitment to making no major changes to building regulations during this Parliament – other than for safety purposes.

Second came the news that the requirement for Biodiversity Net Gain measures would be removed on more brownfield sites. So what does this mean for anyone thinking of self-building or renovating?

A pause in building regulations could have mixed outcomes

Building regulations, a standard requirement for anyone self-building and often those undertaking major home renovations are set in place to ensure homes are built to the same specified standards.

While they certainly aren't updated every year, they are reviewed on an on-going basis, with the Government even announcing a consultation process would begin on Part K this week.

The issue is that changes to building regulations can cause time delays and extra expense, and even delay projects getting off the ground. This can impact how many new homes a year are built – something the Government is keen to avoid.

In his speech, Chancellor John Healey said: "To get more homes built, I’m drawing the line on constant changes to building regulations. No major changes to building regulations in this Parliament, except where it’s critical for safety."

Pausing any updates will appear to provide a period of certainty for anyone building a home, but will it have as much of an impact as it suggests?

"Building regulations have increasingly become a playground for politicians to win votes and not improve homes, with unintended consequences – such as overheating, unviable planning permissions and project redesign – often ignored," Rico Wojtulewicz, director of policy and marketing insight at the National Federation of Builders told Homebuilding & Renovating.

"We therefore welcome a more certain regulatory environment for this parliamentary period, though note that if changes were proposed they likely wouldn't be in place until the next government takes charge."

Mark Stevenson, Homebuilding & Renovating's build expert agreed that there were some positives but was keen for it not to be a step backwards.

"I think the pause on building regulations changes is broadly welcome. Given the economic climate, the industry needs some stability, and constantly changing regulations adds cost and uncertainty to projects.

"However, we shouldn’t stop looking ahead," he added. For example Part O, which deals with overheating, is a great example of regulation that was needed and long overdue. We need more of this – regulations that matter."

Andy Morrison, director of UK Property Development, agreed that an interim period of stability was good: “Developers are already under immense pressure to deliver the homes needed to tackle the housing crisis, so a period of regulatory stability will be welcome."

But, he also warned of a potential risk in the future.

"The vast majority are committed to building high-quality homes that will stand up to future scrutiny, but there is a danger that maintaining today's standards without providing clarity on what comes next could create problems further down the line," said Andy.

“It's not necessarily a question of quality, but certainty. If what's deemed acceptable today is no longer considered sufficient in a few years' time, developers and homeowners could find themselves facing additional costs or supplementary work, should future rules require it," he explained.

"The Government must ensure that any regulatory pause is accompanied by a clear long-term direction, so homes being built today aren't left behind tomorrow.”

Biodiversity changes could open up more plots for development

While chancellor John Healey said: "I am removing biodiversity requirements for more brownfield sites," some industry experts still feel this pledge falls short of what the Government could have done.

Brownfield sites are those plots of land that had previously been used for another, generally industrial purpose. Rules were relaxed on using them for residential property in 2024, although they were still subject to adhering to the requirements of Biodiversity Net Gain (BNG).

And, while the requirements will still remain in place for some sites, residential brownfield developments of up to 1.5 hectares in England will be exempt. Full implementation details have not yet been released, so how has this news been received?

"The relaxation of BNG on smaller brownfield sites is welcome, but I think the Government could have gone further," said Mark Stevenson. "The whole subject has been confused by multiple changes, which have left us all a bit confused. There should have always been a straightforward exemption for genuine one-off self-builds. We now also have an issue for self-builders who already have planning consent with a BNG obligation that didn’t benefit from previous exemptions.

"I suspect they’ll find it difficult, if not impossible, to escape those requirements," he warned. "Their existing consent still stands, and I can’t see the new exemption being applied retrospectively. This is confusing and in my opinion particularly unfair."

Andy Morrison agreed that the step was helpful, but still fell short. "The proposed changes to brownfield development are a positive step, but the Government must go further in removing the obstacles that prevent housebuilding at scale. Without meaningful reform, there's a danger that today's investment delivers far less than its headline promise.”

Founder of LandSale, Adam Morris was in agreement that the move would help, but was certainly not a full solution.

"The proposed relaxation of brownfield development requirements is a step in the right direction, but we need to see a far more ambitious approach to unlocking land across the country. Whether that's brownfield regeneration or bringing suitable underutilised land into use, removing barriers to development will be just as important as the funding announced today," he said.

Looking at the bigger picture of biodiversity in general, Rico Wojtulewicz commented how he was unsurprised that the change was announced, having already predicted that BNG didn't achieve what it set out to.

"Habitat Net Gain, as we believe it should be called, has no strategic vision for increasing biodiversity and continues to be the expensive tick box exercise we warned it would be," said Rico.

"We welcome the Government's acceptance of this, even if currently only on brownfield, and hope that our campaign to extend this exemption to the medium sized site, but at the same time using them to trial our cheaper and biodiversity supportive ecosystem led BNG approach, will be supported."

Other measures proposed to help homeowners and the housing market

Along with the changes to building regulations and biodiversity, housing formed part of today's budgets, but perhaps not to the extent we had expected.

There were no announcements confirming that the Boiler Upgrade Scheme was changing as we had been led to believe. Good news for some in the wake of the first financial partners for the Warm Homes Loan Scheme being confirmed.

A 2027 £100 Household Energy Payment was launched for some households in England, with other regions receiving funds and encouragement to do the same. The temporary VAT cut on electricity bills has also been extended until the start of July 2027, while Ofgem will be asked to abolish gas standing charges and transfer it to energy units instead.

The proposed tax on gas bills to fund hydrogen will also be scrapped in favour of public funding instead.

It is also hoped that the Your First Home Scheme will help an additional 70,00 people move onto the property ladder. A new First Time buyer ISA will also be launched and the Lifetime ISA withdrawal charge reduced to 20% so that first-time buyers purchasing a home above the existing £450,000 property price cap will not be penalised.

Social and affordable housing schemes will also receive a further boost with a further £1.5 billion in funding.

Did the budget do enough for self-builders and home renovators?

While these budget announcements may have some impact, the question remains as to whether they will really make any different.

"For me however, planning remains the biggest issue," said Mark Stevenson. "We still see far too many delays, excessive consultations and conditions and inconsistencies between local authorities and central government requirements. These often add more cost and frustration than the building regulations themselves. I’d much rather see the Government tackle these practical problems and make it easier to get projects consented that can then be started relatively quickly."

After hearing the exciting news that plug-in solar panels had become legal in the UK, I was keen to get my hands on a model to see how they work – and came across a few unexpected surprises during my testing.

If you're unfamiliar with plug-in solar panels, they do what they say on the tin – you plug them into a compatible outdoor socket, and the panels generate electricity from sunlight to your home.

If you like the sound of plug-in solar but aren't sure what to expect or whether it will be right for you, I've rounded up the top five things I wish I'd known first.

1. Set-up is easier than I thought it would be

While I knew that plug-in solar panels were easier to install than rooftop panels, I didn't anticipate it being quite this easy. In fact, I've had vacuum cleaners that were harder to set up than the UKSOL Pro Duo Plug-In 890W Solar Kit I tested.

Aside from needing an extra pair of hands to lift them into my garden (they weigh 74.5kg, for reference), they were a breeze to install without the help of a professional, and the whole process took me around five minutes, which I couldn't quite believe.

Once you've checked that your socket and circuit are suitable, all you need to do is plug them in, connect them to the app and you're good to go. You are also required by law to register your solar panels via the online form, according to the experts at Energy Saving Trust.

2. You can track your savings in real-time

While this might not be the case for every plug-in solar panel kit, I was pleasantly surprised that mine had this feature – and even more surprised at how addictive it was to watch the numbers slowly creep up each day.

Not only could I monitor the energy produced by the panels in kWh, but I could also see how much money I was saving and track these results across different times of the day, month and year, as well as the overall total.

When it comes to working out whether your plug-in solar panels are worth it during winter, Kian Milroy, renewables electrical engineer at Heatable, says you should judge your savings based on year-round performance – which this app feature makes very easy to do.

3. They might not be suitable for every home

Measuring 113 x 352 cm, the plug-in solar panel kit I tested was far too big for my tiny terraced garden. If I had attached it to the included ground mount, it would have taken up most of the floor space, so I had to lean it against the fence for the purpose of testing, which is not recommended if installing them permanently.

With this in mind, I would only recommend buying plug-in solar panels to those homeowners with medium- to large-sized gardens, as most models currently available are pretty big and will dominate the space. While it's predicted that they will become smaller over time, I wasn't able to keep these particular panels after testing them out, as they were too big for my garden.

If you're unsure whether they'll work in your space, Jon Skinner, founder of Glow Home, recommends measuring your garden, the access route and the panel itself – plus, checking whether you can position and secure it without blocking windows, escape routes or doors.

4. The savings can be modest

I'd been researching plug-in solar panels for months, so while I knew that the predicted savings were between £70 to £100 a year (according to Andrew Northcott from Energy Saving Trust), I was a little disappointed with what my panels generated day-to-day.

I tested the kit over three days in mid-September, and despite two of them having moderately clear, sunny weather conditions, I only saved a total of 79p – which I had expected to be more.

However, I'll be interested to see how these savings play out over the long term in my partner's parents' larger garden – and with the panels positioned on the proper ground mount.

5. Excess energy won't earn you money

An interesting thing I've discovered about plug-in solar panels is that you only save money on the electricity you use in your home.

For instance, if my panels generated 800W of electricity, but my home was only using 300W, the remaining 500W would be exported back to the grid, and I wouldn't benefit from this financially. This is because at present, plug-in solar panels are exempt from the Microgeneration Certification Scheme which is required for a smart export guarantee tariff with an energy supplier.

So, to get the most from your plug-in panels, it's best to run your appliances during the day when they're generating the most electricity.

While plug-in solar panels didn't end up being worth it for me, they can be a good way for those with larger gardens to make gradual savings on their electricity bills.

Want to learn more? Find out whether your home insurance will cover plug-in solar panels and whether you can put plug-in solar panels in your front garden.

A list of low- and zero- interest Warm Homes Loan Scheme providers has officially been announced by the Government.

The loans, which form part of the Government's Warm Homes Plan, will be available for products such as heat pumps, solar panels and and batteries.

Where applicable, the loans can also be combined with the Boiler Upgrade Scheme in a move designed to make it possible for more homeowners to install clean energy technology with no upfront cost.

How much money can you borrow?

The loans will be available to homeowners across the UK, but according to Government information, there is a maximum amount of loan available which is dependent on the type of clean energy you are installing.

The most on offer is £35,000 for ground source heat pumps, with other figures confirmed as follows:

• Solar panels – up to £15,000  
• Electrical storage battery – up to £15,000   
• Air to water heat pump – up to £20,000  
• Air source heat pump – up to £10,000*
• Ground source heat pump – up to £35,000   
• Biomass boiler – up to £20,000   
• Heat network connection – up to £7,500    
• Micro-renewable system – up to £20,000 

In line with the conditions of the Boiler Upgrade Scheme, the loan for buying and installing an air source heat pump will only be available where operation under the Microgeneration Certification Scheme is confirmed.

What will the interest rates be?

In a bid to make the loan repayments affordable, the Government has worked with lenders to ensure that any loans offered under the Warm Homes Loan Scheme will have an up-to-5% reduction in interest rates compared to regular loans.

So, for example, if a standard loan rate for buying and installing solar panels was 8%, this would mean a potential reduction to 3% under the Government-backed scheme.

While each individual lender will set their own terms, it has been suggested some loans will be offered with zero interest rates and 30-year payback periods.

Which financial companies and banks will offer Warm Homes Loans?

Although it is expected that more high street banks and lenders will join the scheme over time, there are currently 10 confirmed scheme partners. These are:

• Homeserve (partnering with E.ON Next)  
• HTG Finance  
• Propensio  
• Secure Trust Bank  
• Selina Finance  
• South Manchester Credit Union
• Sunsave  
• Tandem Bank (partnering with British Gas)  
• The Money Co-op  
• This Bank  

Chris Norbury, CEO of E.ON UK, an energy supplier that has partnered with Homeserve (meaning anyone taking a loan from the company will be obligated to install E.ON clean energy products) welcomed the scheme saying:

"The announcement is an important step towards removing barriers to low-carbon technologies like batteries, solar panels, and heat pumps that are proven to help people bring down their energy bills.

"By allowing customers to store energy when prices are low, use it when they rise and get more value from the energy they generate, we can give them greater control over their energy use and put pounds back into their pockets."

Carl Hogg, Managing Director of Services at Good Energy, also noted how he was confident homeowners would be looking to take advantage of the news, citing how, "the fact that one in four Good Energy solar customers are now considering finance shows just how important this policy is to help more households across the UK access the benefits of solar panels."

What you should do next

With almost 150,000 solar panel installations in first six months of this year, and heat pumps sales at a record high in 2025, there is likely to be plenty of interest in the new loans.

If it is something that you feel will be suitable for your home renovation plans, start by checking if you are eligible for any other grants and then make sure you check any loan details thoroughly.

Chris Hewitson, VP credit & data at second-charge mortgage lender Selina Finance, who will be offering loans said: "The new scheme could make energy-saving home improvements more accessible to people who may previously have assumed they wouldn't qualify for financial support.

 "One of the important details for homeowners is that there is no government-set income threshold, so eligibility isn't limited to those receiving benefits or earning below a certain amount.

"However, this doesn't mean everyone will automatically qualify," he adds. "Lenders still need to assess whether the borrowing is affordable, taking into account income, existing debt and other financial commitments.

"Homeowners should also consider the total cost of borrowing and how taking on additional finance could affect their ability to borrow in the future," warns Chris, "particularly if they're planning further improvements or changes to their mortgage."

And, while the new loans will be welcomed by many, there is still some nervous anticipation about what may be announced regarding heating and energy in Andy Burnham's first budget since coming to office.

With rumours regarding cuts to the Boiler Upgrade Scheme as yet unconfirmed, only time will tell if the loans will be an addition to the grants, or a replacement.

While condensation is very common in UK bathrooms, you shouldn't have to deal with excessive amounts.

From investing in the best bathroom extractor fan to opening windows after a shower, most of us know the basic ways to keep excess moisture at bay. But what if you're doing all the right things and still experiencing significant condensation?

Below, our ventilation experts reveal five little-known mistakes that could be causing your bathroom to steam up – and that you may not have thought about before.

1. Not heating your bathroom

It might be tempting to leave your heating off to cut back on energy bills, but this could lead to bathroom condensation getting worse, according to Rob Stevens, HVAC trade manager at Aspect.

He explains that because your walls, tiles and mirrors will be colder, water vapour from your hot shower will condense into droplets. That's why he recommends maintaining a reasonably consistent temperature by using heat emitters, such as radiators or heated towel rails.

2. Turning off your extractor fan too soon

One of the biggest mistakes that Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco, sees is people switching off their extractor fan too soon – either because it's too noisy or they're worried it's wasting electricity.

However, both Michael and Rob Stevens agree that it has to be left on for at least 20 minutes after your shower – otherwise, you're just asking for condensation to settle on your walls and windows. The best bathroom extractor fans, like the Envirovent SIL100 model from Amazon, usually have a timer, so you don't have to think about it, though.

3. Taking hotter, longer showers

There's nothing better than a long, hot shower in the winter, but as nice as they are, they could result in more bathroom condensation, since more moisture is being released into the space.

"Keep your shower warm rather than very hot, and avoid lingering in it. Set a timer if it helps!" says Rob Stevens. "Shorter, less steamy showers release less moisture into the air, helping to reduce condensation in your bathroom."

4. Running a bath with hot water first

Instead of filling up your bathtub with boiling hot water, try starting with the cold tap to reduce the amount of steam that builds up, and then gradually introducing the warm water, recommends Rob Stevens.

Most people tend to start the other way round, but this can cause unnecessary moisture to settle on cooler surfaces, such as windows, walls and mirrors, before they've even got into the bath.

5. Leaving water on surfaces

Wiping down wet surfaces in your bathroom will make all the difference in reducing the amount of condensation that forms, even if it is a slight inconvenience. By using either a squeegee (and catching the drips with a cloth) or one of the best window vacs daily, you'll help to reduce the amount of moisture that evaporates into the room.

"After a shower, water left on the shower tray, screen and bathroom tiles will gradually evaporate back into the air, adding more moisture to the room and potentially making condensation worse," says Rob Stevens.

"You’re always going to create some steam and condensation after a shower or bath. You just need to make sure there is a way to deal with that moisture afterwards. If you're not getting it out of the room, it's going to end up somewhere," concludes Michael Zahouri.

For more advice, read our expert guide on how to stop condensation in your home or what causes condensation to form on windows. Worried your ventilation isn't up to the job? Read the signs your bathroom extractor fan isn't working properly.

For some time now, ever since selling our house twice and failing to find another one we liked more, we have been planning an extension and remodel. When we first bought the house, back in 2012, we set about building an extension to provide a bigger kitchen, as well as a two-storey rear extension but, on reflection, we could have done more to expand the space.

Now that the toddlers are teens, we need more space and so are planning on building a further rear extension to provide a much-needed utility room. We also want to extend out over the flat-roofed kitchen in order to add another bedroom and bathroom upstairs.

Obviously this is going to cause a level of disruption and, as we plan on living in the house while work is carried out, we are keen to find ways to do this as harmoniously as possible. Equally, we would like to split the costs up a little, giving us time to save up for the upper storey section. However, I am questioning the wisdom of staggering an extension like this – is it actually better to just get it all done at once, accept the inevitable mess and disruption to daily life and pay the whole amount in one go? I put it to the experts.

What are the reasons for staggering an extension project?

For us, the main motivation for staggering our extension project is cost – quite simply, we want to get started but don't have the funds for the whole thing just yet. Additionally, we need to be able to live around the work as it takes place.

According to architect James Munro of Pace Architecture, our reasons are common, although not necessarily completely founded. "Usually, phasing an extension is not the most efficient way to deliver a build, and can actually carry more costs overall, so phasing is usually down to two key drivers.

"The first is living in the property during the works, with people keen to avoid having to find a rental property and incurring the costs that come with that," continues James.

"Secondly, there is the matter of financing. When the budget doesn’t match the overall extension costs, phasing can assist with that. It also allows more control over any financial risks, for example committing to one manageable phase first, and consolidating finances at the end of that phase, before proceeding."

Megan Ebanks, director of MEA Studio, agrees that budget is usually the biggest driving factor behind staggered extensions. "Most of the time phasing is a financial decision rather than a design one – it becomes a considered option when the full budget for the whole project isn't there at the beginning of the job. However, I'd encourage a homeowner to look hard at whether they can avoid it before committing."

Megan also highlights the toll a phased project can have on homeowners in terms of adding to the extension timescales. "The total period of disruption is much longer. Two shorter builds spread over multiple years can be more wearing on a family than one nine to 12 month job they move out for."

Finally, Scott Young, co-founder of K&S Bespoke Builds, points out that phasing an extension can get complicated for other reasons. "If your stages are a year or more apart then you might get a different team on the return visit which means they may do things differently, or might want to redo bits that are already done, which would add costs or give you a different result than originally planned.

"Also, planning typically lapses if you don't start the build within three years, and building regulations change so different stages might be subject to higher standards if you wait too long. Again, this might mean expensive reworks," adds Scott.

Pros of staggering an extension:

• Allows you to split payments into manageable chunks
• Easier to live around phased work
• Easier for those undertaking work on a DIY basis

Cons of staggering the work:

• Tends to cost more overall
• Project can lose a sense of momentum
• Delays likely in getting contractors back on site
• Stress of building work lasts for longer

Why is it better to carry out extension work all in one go?

Clearly then the experts favour getting the work all done at once – surprisingly, they all said that this a far more cost effective route than staggering.

"Completing in one go is more cost and time efficient for the actual contract with the contractor, and the reason is mostly preliminaries. Scaffolding costs, site set-up, welfare, skips, temporary protection and site management are priced per contract rather than per square metre, so phasing means paying for them twice," explains Megan Ebanks.

"Phase two also gets priced at a later date, so you lose your fixed price and the phase two price could include inflation. And, you pay for some items that are only in the schedule of works because the job is split, such as temporary weatherproofing, temporary propping, capping off services you'll uncap in two years' time.

"On top of that, you might lose the contractor," adds Megan. "By the end of phase one a build team knows the building and has their subcontractors lined up. If there's a gap and they've gone, and you re-tender from scratch, it could be a few months before anyone is back on site."

That said, Megan does point out that the 'all-in-one' route won't work for everyone. "Completing in one go means living on-site might not work so usually requires the homeowners to move out, which incurs some cost for the client, and that is the trade-off."

Pros of extending all at once:

• More cost effective
• Work gets completed faster
• Same build team for the entirety of the project
• Projects tend to run smoother without the stop-start that comes from phasing

Cons of extending in one go:

• Homeowners often required to move out
• Higher upfront costs

What is the best way to stagger an extension?

If you do decide to take a staggered approach to your extension project, there are ways of splitting it up that make more sense than others.

"We sometimes phase projects so that the shell and core are completed in phase one and the finishes are phase two, occasionally by the homeowners themselves," says Megan Ebanks. "More often though the phasing is to complete one part of a house and then do the other part in the next phase. It lets the homeowners live in the section of the house that isn't being renovated and extended, then move across to the completed half when phase two begins.

"We don't phase the design though – the whole project is designed at the outset, even when we only plan on building part of it in the first phase," adds Megan.

"Almost every phasing problem I've seen comes from a scheme that was only designed as far as phase one, so the drainage runs, the structure and the services positions were never set up for the future phase, and phase two then gets compromised or costs more as there is a need to change elements which were completed earlier."

"I'd recommend doing everything hard and disruptive in phase one – things like groundworks, foundations, steelwork and structural stuff, the roof and anything else to make it weathertight, drainage, service routes and so on. Then things like flooring, lights and the interior fit-out can come later," adds Scott Young.

"If phasing by stage, put everything dirty, structural and disruptive into phase one (steels, drainage, roof, rewiring, plumbing)," agrees Megan Ebanks. "And if phasing by area, set the boundary somewhere the building can actually be sealed – at a wall, a door or a compartment line, rather than part-way through a space.

"The main thing to think about if planning a phased project," she adds, "is to get the whole thing consented under one planning permission application."

FAQs

Is it a good idea to split a renovation into stages?

While the ideal scenario with both an extension and a renovation might be to move out in order to carry out all the work at once, it is not always possible. Interestingly though, if you are renovating a house, as opposed to extending, and are considering working in stages, there is one instance where a staggered approach can actually be a much better idea.

"There is one case where I think phasing is the right answer rather than a compromise which is when you can't finish the design until the building has been opened up," explains Megan Ebanks.

"We're running a Grade II listed house project in Belgravia in three phases for exactly that reason. Phase one is a soft strip out, taking the house back to brick so the whole structure is exposed and the structural engineer can confirm the assumptions their design rests on. Phase two is all of the structural work, taken to a watertight envelope. Phase three is the finishes.

"It is the right decision because, on a building of that age, a structural design always rests on assumptions until you can actually see the structure," she explains. "On a listed house I would far rather find the surprises during a strip out than part-way through a build."

While planning your new addition, do take the time to research whether a two-storey extension might work out to be more cost effective overall than a single storey design – you don't (as I am) want to be having to add to it later down the line if at all possible.

Let's not beat around the bush here, you've either got them or you haven't. Some of us have them in abundance and hardly know what to do with them all, while others of us simply despair. What we are of course talking about, is focal points – those stand out details in a house that manage to effortlessly add character.

Not all house styles come packed with obvious focal points. If you happen to live in a period home you may well be lucky enough to have a few already in place – exposed beams, fireplaces, architectural mouldings or beautiful original windows to name but a few. However, if you live in a newer property, or in even in an older one which has at some point been inexplicably stripped of its intrinsic character, you might find yourself staring at nothing but bare walls and wondering what can be done to inject a little personality.

The good news is that, with a little know how, it is possible to create a focal point in lots of different ways and in all kinds of properties – we explain the best ways of going about it.

Turn your walls into the talking point

Wall panelling is one of the hottest interior design trends around right now, be that period styles that add a sense of grandeur, or more rustic boards that lend a log cabin vibe – cladding a wall is a quick and easy way to form an instant point of focus.

Ian Tomlinson, MD at Chaunceys Timber Flooring, explains just why this is such a good way to create interest. "Timber cladding has seen a resurgence thanks to its ability to add warmth, texture and character to interiors. Whether it’s full-height panelling for a dramatic statement or half-height panelling for a more understated effect, it remains a timeless choice.

"We’re seeing a move toward more natural and textured finishes in wall panelling," adds Ian. "Rustic reclaimed timbers with pronounced knots and eye-catching grains are increasingly in demand, as they provide a more organic, tactile feel. Neutral and earthy tones are dominating, with lighter woods like oak or subtle stains offering a soft, contemporary look. There’s also growing interest in wider boards and vertical panelling, which create a sense of height and space in a room, making them perfect for both compact and open-plan layouts."

Fire surrounds make the most perfect focal points

There are few better features in any space, be that a living room or a bedroom, than a fireplace when it comes to lending a warm and cosy glow. It doesn't even really matter too much whether there is a working fire in there – it is the fireplace ideas that you go with that make the most difference.

The good news here is that those without a chimney or a fire can quite easily fake the look. You might like to consider buying an off-the-shelf surround to fit to the wall, or you could even construct one yourself – once filled with a neat stack of logs, flowers, candles or other empty fireplace solutions, no-one will question it.

Alternatively, if you have an opening for a fire already, be sure to make the most it with a surround that suits the period of the house, or by renovating the existing structure.

Get creative with glazing to frame a view

Turning a knock-out view into a focal point is a brilliant way to overcome a lack of interesting architectural features. What better way to while away the hours than by gazing out over your outside spaces?

The good news here is that you actually don't have to have access to vast vistas for this to work either – cleverly using glazing to frame a view, be that over rolling hillsides or your own carefully curated patio, can often result in something akin to a piece of artwork.

Depending on the layout of your home and what you are looking out over, consider high-level glazing, such as clerestory windows, a wide expanse of slimline sliding doors, fixed picture windows or even a beautiful circular window.

Design your kitchen around a striking island

Kitchens have to be one of the hardest areas in which to create a new focal point – they are already busy spaces, with lots going on, so introducing a new element without proper planning can result in a sense of overwhelm.

This is where a kitchen island can be your best friend. This much-loved kitchen feature can not only be designed to provide additional work space, but can also add to your kitchen storage, become an appliance hub and, yes, a focal point in its own right.

If you really want your island to pack punch, Oli Webb, director at Cullifords, suggests leaning on the beauty of natural stone.

"Statement stone is an effective way to create a focal point in the kitchen, bringing natural texture, colour and character to the space. Used on an island, splashback or worktop, a distinctive stone can become a feature in its own right, with its veining and unique markings adding visual interest. Keeping the surrounding cabinetry more understated allows the stone to take centre stage," he suggests.

Use wall and floor tiles to draw the eye

Tiles don't only have to be used as a simple background surface material – in some cases they can play a starring role in the design of a room, forming a striking feature around which everything else is anchored, becoming the perfect way to add character to a new home.

Richard Skeoch, company director at Hyperion Tiles , explains that tiles are no longer restricted to kitchens and bathrooms. "Tiles are increasingly being used throughout the home, with homeowners looking beyond traditional wet areas and considering how tiled surfaces can add character to other spaces.

"We are seeing tiles being used much more creatively throughout the home, from hallways and bedrooms to boot rooms, fireplaces and even living spaces. The question is becoming less about where you need a hard wearing surface and more about where a tiled surface could add something to the room.

"Using tiles in these less expected areas can be a great way to introduce colour, texture or pattern," he continues. "A tiled fireplace or feature wall, for example, can become a real design statement."

Statement lighting works in any room

Your lighting design may well be a practical element within the home and a way of setting the mood but, with carefully chosen fittings, it can also become a focal point.

Oversized lighting, in particular, makes an instant statement in any room, drawing the eye to the exact point within the space you want, as well as giving you the opportunity to create some interesting interplays between light and dark.

Even those working with spaces with low ceilings can consider oversized or statement lighting – in fact, both can be the perfect way to distract from the vertical proportions of the room.

Shop statement lighting

A stylish home bar is the perfect way to glam up a bland dining space

If it's a kitchen or dining space you are working with, do take time to consider some home bar ideas. While it might not be an essential, this is a feature you can have a little fun with and it can become the perfect talking point for guests.

Sam Harris, senior design consultant at Ashford Kitchens & Interiors, explains how to approach the design of a home bar. "A home bar can create a natural focal point within a kitchen or dining room, adding both character and a sense of occasion to the space. Whether it’s a dedicated drinks cabinet, a statement open shelf or a built-in bar area, it can be designed to complement the wider kitchen while giving the room its own distinctive feature.

"Displaying glassware, bottles and carefully chosen accessories can also turn the bar into an attractive design element when it’s not in use," adds Sam.

Don't underestimate the power of colour in creating interest

Using paint to create a focal point on walls or ceilings is such a quick and easy solution, yet all too often it gets overlooked in favour of more expensive or complicated methods.

Cathryn Sanders, head of creative at Earthborn , explains some of the best ways to use paint effects in order to create a point of interest in an otherwise bland space. "Paint is a simple yet effective way to create a focal point, whether through a bold colour, contrasting shades or playful patterns such as stripes.

"Used to highlight a particular area or architectural feature, paint can draw the eye and add personality, while giving you the freedom to experiment with colour and pattern."

For ideas regarding using paint to create focal points, I recommend you consider using the peek-a-boo paint trend.

The benefits of a cosy reading nook are twofold

It is so important when designing your interiors that you incorporate a few areas that are intended for nothing more than cosying up and relaxing – all too often we focus so much on practical features that we overlook the importance of sheer comfort.

A reading nook not only gives you a quiet, cosy spot to retreat to when needed but, with the right design approach, can also become the focal point within a space.

Use colour, texture and even wall panelling to set it apart from the rest of the space – this is an idea that works anywhere in the home, from landings to living rooms and even in kitchens.

Shop reading nook essentials

Don't forget the impact your ceiling can have

The ceiling so often gets overlooked, yet the effect it can have on the look and feel of a space can be enormous. With the right treatment, your ceiling ideas can become the main character.

"Paul Moody, global marketing and insights director at Havwoods , reveals his favourite way to turn the ceiling into a focal point. "The ceiling provides an opportunity to significantly impact the aesthetic of a space. By directing attention upwards, a focal point is created which will set the tone for the entire room and naturally draw the eye up, helping to make a space feel taller.

"Timber cladding instantly adds character, warmth and texture to a room for a more natural feeling," adds Paul.

A log burning stove is a great alternative to an open fire

Even with no fireplace (or even a chimney), it is still possible to install a log burning stove and, in doing so, you get an instant focal point.

Jon Butterworth, MD at Arada, puts forward the case for taking this route. "A stove can naturally become the focal point of a room, creating a sense of warmth and drawing the eye towards the heart of the space. Whether positioned within a traditional fireplace or set against a more contemporary backdrop, its shape, finish and glowing fire can add character and atmosphere.

"Styling the surrounding area with carefully chosen furniture, artwork, plants or decorative pieces can further enhance the stove and help it feel like an integral part of the room."

FAQs

What is the easiest way to create a focal point in a bathroom?

Bathrooms can be particularly tricky when it comes to focal points – you need to strike a balance between this being a practical space as well as finding ways to make modern bathrooms feel cosy.

While a freestanding stone statement bath might be your dream focal point, if you are after something a little more affordable and quick to install, Jeevan Seth, CEO, JTP, has another suggestion. "A statement mirror can instantly elevate a bathroom, creating a strong focal point while adding depth and character to the space. A contemporary design can bring sculptural interest above a vanity or basin, turning a practical feature into a striking design element."

You might also like to consider a designer towel rail or even an oversized showerhead as a point of interest.

One of the quickest, cheapest and easiest ways to create a focal point is by painting a wall a bold shade or by being clever with pattern – often this will only take a day or two but will have a huge impact.

Choosing the wrong adhesive and tools for a tiling job can have consequences. The biggest problem is that most issues aren't immediately obvious. Newly installed tiles can look good, but a poor bond from the wrong adhesive, poor application or shabby cuts will soon show itself – often in disastrous ways.

Tiling a floor and tiling a wall also involve subtle but important differences. So it's critical that you know the difference for a successful tiling project.

Here, I explain the adhesive you should use, the right trowel to apply it, and how to ensure clean cuts for a professional, long-lasting finish.

What can go wrong?

The problem with choosing the wrong materials and tools when tiling is that you rarely notice problems straight away. You can walk away thinking you've done a great job, but time will reveal issues eventually and some of them can be hard to rectify.

When a tile hasn't bonded properly for example, "problems can emerge later on with cracked or loose tiles, especially where a lot of movement is involved,” explains James Roberts, director at Sanctuary Bathrooms.

Stephen Russell, tiler at Ashley Cross Tiling explains what typically happens in this instance: "Tiles will come loose on floors and tiles will fall off the walls.” A DIY disaster any home renovator or self-builder would rather avoid.

But these aren't the only issues, James shares, noting how the right adhesive can also lead to additional problems with certain tiles. "With natural stone, staining is also another risk, and by that stage, when you've noticed the stain, putting it right could mean having to remove and refix the tiles, so a simple mistake in specification can turn into a substantial repair."

And, while the wrong adhesive may cause hidden problems that reveal themselves later on, using the wrong tile-cutting tool can ruin a tile instantly. You can use a score-and-snap tile cutter on ceramic and thinner porcelain tiles, but with materials like stone and thick tile, it can break unevenly, leave chips on the edges, or making it simply fall apart. Much the same as when using the wrong drill bit to drill into tiles.

It's clear that using the wrong materials and tools isn't as easily fixed as using the wrong colour when painting a wall, so with time, money and stress levels all at risk, here's how to make sure you avoid making mistakes.

Think about the surface your sticking tiles onto

The surface you are sticking tile to will heavily influence how and what you use to apply your tiles.

Stephen Russell agrees: "The substrate certainly makes a difference; choose a recommended adhesive and make sure to read the label on the bag on how to mix and apply.”

James Roberts reinforces the point, telling us: “Absolutely. The adhesive can only perform as well as the background allows.”

If tiling onto plasterboard, “it must be dry, securely fixed, and able to carry the tile's weight," he continues. "Follow the adhesive manufacturer's priming instructions for plaster and boards.”

If tiling on tile, “existing tiles must be sound and clean, as well as suitably prepared for a non-absorbent surface,” advises James. If tiling onto concrete or screed, make sure it's dry and fully cured before tiling. Again, check the manufacturer's recommendation.

Finally, “timber floors deserve particular attention," warns James. "Current guidance calls for an appropriate middle layer over wood-based boards, such as tile backer board or an uncoupling system. A flexible adhesive alone can't make up for an unstable floor.”

Choosing tile adhesive

Many factors come into play when choosing a tile adhesive for a project. The first, and usually most important, is where you're applying the tiles: walls or floors.

Tile adhesive for walls

Generally, wall tiles are smaller than floor tiles, such as these Wickes Metro White Gloss Ceramic Wall Tiles. The other key difference is that you don't walk on wall tiles, unlike floor tiles. This means they experience less stress, wear and tear, so you don't need as strong an adhesive.

“On walls, a ready-mixed adhesive in a tub is the common option,” shares Stephen Russell. This means no mixing, so you can get straight to work.

“If you're heading to a hardware store, Mapei Ultimate Showerproof Adhesive (available from B&Q) is a decent choice," he suggests and I agree. It's one I've personally used on bathroom wall tiling projects and found it easy to use, and the tiles are still on the walls after five years.

James Roberts recommends an alternative ready-mixed option that can also cope with larger tiles. “BAL White Star Plus is suitable for ceramic tiles up to 300 × 300mm on approved backgrounds, including bathroom walls,” he shares.

“There are also powdered adhesives you have to mix available, which are typically cheaper," adds Stephen. “Mapei Fast Set Grey Tile Adhesive (available from B&Q) is a good option.”

However, you do need to be careful when working with larger tiles, explains James. "Once you move into larger tiles or most porcelain installations, a suitable cement-based powder adhesive is the better choice. Check its limits for tile size, background and bed thickness; convenience should never drive the specification," he warns.

Tile adhesive for floors

Stephen Russell offers one simple piece of advice when it comes to choosing floor tile adhesive, which is, “never use pre-mixed wall tile adhesive on floors.”

"For floors, use a powdered in-a-bag tile adhesive and always read the label,” he notes., as cement-based adhesives are the common option for floors.

“The setting time should suit the job," picks up James Roberts, telling us how standard-setting and rapid-setting options are both readily available.

Standard-setting tile adhesive, such as Mapei Grey Wall & Floor Tile Adhesive from B&Q, is a good option, especially for large rooms. It takes longer to set than rapid-set adhesive, giving you more working time.

However, if you need to walk on a floor within a few hours, you'll need a rapid-set adhesive such as Mapei Mapeker Rapid Set Grey Flexible Tile Adhesive (available from Wickes).

For floors with underfloor heating, you need an adhesive with a "deformable formulation that accommodates limited movement," explains James. “BAL Rapid-Flex One (available from Amazon) is an example of an adhesive that works well for ceramic and porcelain floor tiles, as long as you follow its substrate requirements.” Tile adhesive with the S1 or S2 flexibility rating is typically a good choice for underfloor heating.

Shop these tools for a better tile project

Choosing the right tools

1. Tools for cutting

Different tiles need different tools to cut correctly. Choose the wrong option, and you won’t get a clean cut, which can prove expensive. “Choose the cutter around the tiles you're actually using, rather than assuming one tool will handle everything,” is James Roberts' advise.

"Score and snap tile cutters will work on most wall tiles,” says Stephen Russell, with James adding that, “score-and-snap cutters are useful for straight cuts on ceramic and many porcelain tiles.”

My top tip? Don't forget to check the size of a score-and-snap tile cutter as you don't want to buy one and find out it doesn't accommodate your tiles. If you need more than a straight cut, you'll need an electric tile cutter like the Vitrex Torque Master Power Tile Cutter from Amazon.

“Floor tiles are much harder to cut,” picks up Stephen, noting how for porcelain you will typically need a specialised diamond-bladed wet cutter.”

“Natural stone generally needs an electric cutter too," adds James, "with an appropriate diamond blade."

Professional wet tile cutters are expensive, so you could instead invest in a more robust option, such as the Erbauer 750W Corded Tile Cutter from B&Q. Alternatively, you can hire one from a tool hire company such as HSS or SpeedyHire.

2. Sizing your trowel

The notches on a tiling trowel determine how much adhesive is applied. Choose the wrong size, and you might apply too little or too much, which can cause bonding issues.

“Always use a smaller notch trowel for walls and a large notched trowel for floors," says Stephen Russell. "A 6mm notch (like this Faithfull Soft-Grip Notched Tile Trowel from Amazon) is a useful starting point for small ceramic wall tiles. Medium-sized tiles installed with cement-based adhesive may need 8mm.”

Floor tiles need a bigger notch, adds James Roberts, noting how, “larger wall or floor tiles often need 10–12mm.”

For mosaic tiles, "a smaller notch is preferred to stop adhesive protruding from the joints," explains James. “The challenge with mosaics is getting good contact beneath every piece without filling the grout joints with adhesive, but, there's no universal size," he continues.

"BAL, for example, specifies a minimum 4mm notch (like this COMENSAL Notched Tiling Trowel from Amazon) for mosaics with Rapid-Flex One, while ARDEX WA specifies 3mm. Follow the mosaic and adhesive instructions, and check the contact beneath the pieces as you go along,” he suggests.

Choosing the right adhesive and tools is the practical part of a successful tiling project. However, you also need a bit of flair and inspiration, which you can find in our kitchen wall tile ideas and kitchen floor tile ideas to get the look you want. Add in the right tile pattern to make a room feel bigger to help complete your project.

How long should you run a dehumidifier for? If you've recently bought one of these damp-busting machines, you're probably asking yourself this question – particularly if you're worried about them racking up your energy bills or causing a safety hazard.

While the best dehumidifiers can be pretty cheap to run (our favourite below costs just 6p per hour), and they're usually fitted with an auto shut-off feature to prevent any accidents, it's still worth knowing when it's time to turn one off.

Below, our air quality experts reveal the optimum amount of time to run a dehumidifier and answer other commonly asked questions.

How many hours a day should you run a dehumidifier for?

Unfortunately, this isn't a one-size-fits-all answer. According to Chris Michael, founder of Meaco, it all depends on how damp your home is and how much moisture your everyday activities produce.

The good news is lots of dehumidifiers know when it's time to turn off.

"A dehumidifier with a humidistat takes the guesswork out of it," explains Chris. "It stops extracting moisture when the air reaches your chosen humidity and restarts when needed, avoiding unnecessary use."

So, what relative humidity level should your home be? Chris recommends aiming for 55% in UK homes, which will help control condensation and discourage mould.

Can you leave a dehumidifier on all day or overnight?

Potentially, but this will depend on the specific model you have, so you'll need to check your manufacturer's instructions before running it unattended.

While many dehumidifiers will automatically switch off once the room reaches the set humidity level or the water tank is full, Simon Trenerry, Technical Advisor at Safeguard, says to take the following precautions first:

• Position the appliance on a stable, level surface with sufficient space for airflow
• Keep it away from curtains, bedding and other obstructions
• Plug it directly into a wall socket rather than an extension lead
• If using continuous drainage, check that the hose is secure and water can drain safely
• Never use a damaged or malfunctioning appliance

However, there's not much point in running your dehumidifier continuously if your home is already within the recommended humidity range – you'll just be wasting energy unnecessarily.

"Remember, a dehumidifier should be part of a wider approach to moisture management, alongside adequate ventilation, appropriate heating and property maintenance," Simon adds. "If damp or mould keeps returning, identifying and addressing the source of moisture is more effective than continually removing it from the air."

Shop the Homebuilding team's favourite dehumidifiers

How do you know when to turn a dehumidifier off?

While most dehumidifiers come with a built-in humidistat that will automatically turn the device off for you, you can stop using it once the relative humidity reaches between 40% and 60%, explains Simon Trenerry. A digital hygrometer can help you monitor this.

"There are also practical signs that humidity is improving, such as less condensation on windows, fewer musty smells and laundry drying more quickly," he adds. "However, if humidity rises quickly after switching the dehumidifier off, it's important to investigate why. Poor ventilation, everyday activities, leaks or defects in the building could all be contributing factors."

To conclude, there isn't a set number of hours you should run your dehumidifier – you just need to keep an eye on your home's humidity levels.

Found this helpful? You may want to read our guide on how dehumidifiers work. Or, if you're wondering what else they can do, find out whether dehumidifiers can help to reduce dust in your home.

If you like the idea of plug-in solar panels but aren't sure how they'll stack up against the job during a grey British winter, you're not alone.

Since plug-in solar panels generate electricity by capturing sunlight, it's understandable to be concerned about them not doing much during the darker months.

To find out how much electricity plug-in solar panels will produce in a gloomy English winter, and how to get the most out of them during this season, we asked the experts for their top tips and here's what they advised.

Are plug-in solar panels worth it during winter?

While plug-in solar panels will obviously perform best during the spring and summer, Kian Milroy, renewables electrical engineer at Heatable, says they can still be valuable during the winter.

As for whether buying plug-in solar panels is worth it, you should judge them based on their year-round performance to get a good average, rather than on one season in particular.

"The thing that a lot of people don’t realise about solar panels is that they only need light to generate electricity, rather than heat. So, as long as it’s a clear, bright day, they can work extremely well at lower temperatures. So, plug-in solar will work throughout winter," he says.

However, due to shorter days, cloud cover and the sun sitting lower in the sky, it's worth bearing in mind that the UK will have less usable sunlight during the winter – not to mention that snow will stop generation completely if the panels are covered.

"Winter production is effectively a bonus rather than something the system needs to rely on to pay for itself," Kian explains.

How much electricity will plug-in solar generate in winter?

The answer to this question will depend on a few things, according to Kian Milroy: the weather, location, panel capacity, orientation, tilt and shading.

"The thing to understand is that there will always be a distinction between a panel’s rated power and the amount of energy it produces over the course of the day," he adds. "An 800W system is capable of reaching close to 800W under ideal conditions, but it will not be exposed to ideal conditions in winter."

Instead of focusing on what you will generate and save during the winter months, Kian recommends looking at the estimated annual generation, as summer will do "most of the heavy lifting".

As a rough guide, Andrew Northcott, Knowledge Manager at Energy Saving Trust, calculates that the average plug-in solar panel system could save between £70 and £100 a year.

Even though the savings are small, they can still help to reduce your energy bills and the amount of electricity you buy from the grid.

How to get the most from plug-in solar during winter

"To get the most from plug-in solar, it's important to use as much of the electricity generated by the panel as possible when it is being produced," says Andrew Northcott. "Plug-in solar panels can power everyday household appliances directly, so households may benefit from using electrical devices during the brightest parts of the short winter day where possible."

Another way to do this, as Fiona Conor, founder and CEO of Trust Electric Heating, explains, is to set up smart controls to schedule your heating during daylight hours.

You'll also want to check whether your solar panels are positioned optimally for the lower sun. Ideally, they should be in a south-facing location with minimal shading from buildings and vegetation.

So, before ruling out plug-in solar panels during the winter, it's worth looking at the bigger picture of your savings across the year rather than in isolation.

To learn more, read our guide on the best place to install plug-in solar panels or read my review on the UKSOL Pro Duo Plug-In 890W Solar Kit.

Hand-painted murals were once the preserve of grand houses and hours of intricate brushwork. Now, thanks to digital printing, you can turn a plain white wall into a sweeping landscape, a dense botanical or an abstract artwork for a fraction of the cost, often in a single afternoon.

But large-scale imagery is a bold commitment, and it’s easy to worry that a mural will dominate the room rather than lift it.

So are wall murals overpowering, or the shortcut to a feature wall you’ll love for years? We spoke to interior designers, wallpaper brands and tile specialists to find out where they work best, what they cost, how to hang one and the mistakes to avoid.

What is a wall mural?

A wall mural is a single, large-scale image designed to cover a whole wall, rather than a wallpaper pattern that repeats across it. Most are printed wall coverings supplied as a set of numbered panels, which build up one continuous picture when hung in order. Many are also made to measure, so they can be printed to fit your wall exactly.

“A mural allows you to treat a wall almost like a piece of art,” explains John Law, creative director of interiors at Woodhouse & Law. “It can create a focal point, alter the perceived proportions of a room or draw attention to an architectural feature.

Murals aren’t limited to wallpaper either. The same transformative effect can be achieved with hand-painted artwork, decorative wall tiles, fabric, printed waterproof panels or vinyl decals. The only limit is your imagination (and perhaps your budget).

Why choose a mural over wallpaper?

The choice between a mural and patterned wallpaper will come down to what you want the wall to do. Repeat-pattern wallpaper is a backdrop, and because the design repeats, it copes well with internal doors, windows and awkward corners breaking it up. In contrast, a mural is the main event.

“I’d recommend choosing a mural when you want to make a statement, create a focal point, or change the atmosphere of a room,” says Sandra Willund, creative director at Rebel Walls.

It’s that last point about ‘atmosphere’ that really sets murals apart from standard wall panelling or paper. “For me, the beauty of a mural is that it can completely change the feeling of a room,” says Tom Kennedy, co-founder and creative director at Divine Savages. “Rather than simply adding pattern to a wall, a mural can create a sense of being somewhere else – a garden, a woodland or an imaginary landscape.”

Scale can make many people nervous about installing a mural – as it’s a big commitment to a single design – but Tom believes it’s often what makes a mural work. “People often assume that a large, detailed design will overwhelm a room, but it can actually have the opposite effect. A good mural creates depth.” The key, he says, is choosing the right wall, in the right room.

Where do wall murals work best?

The rooms that suit a mural best are the ones that can handle a little drama, such as living rooms, dining rooms and bedrooms. Caroline Woolmer, head of product design at Lucie Annabel, recommends using one to create a feature wall in these spaces, where there’s room for a design to tell its story.

In the bedroom, the wall behind the bed is the natural choice. Here, Caroline says, a mural acts like a framed backdrop, adding impact without disturbing the room’s "sense of calm". Children’s rooms are the place to have fun, with whimsical, narrative or character-led mural designs that "invite play and spark imagination."

Try this whimisical Woodland Forest Wall Mural from Dunelm for nature-loving children, or this Cloud Gazing Wall Mural, also from Dunelm, to help inspire sleep.

Tempted to go fully immersive? Caroline suggests starting small, like wrapping a powder room, hallway or boot room in a botanical or landscape scene. These are spaces you pass through rather than linger in, so the design can be enjoyed without ever feeling overbearing.

A mural doesn’t have to stop at one wall either. As designers told us when we asked whether feature walls are out of fashion, the way we use them is evolving, and murals are following suit. “Don’t automatically restrict it to one wall – allowing a design to continue around corners or over a ceiling can feel much more sophisticated and immersive,” says John Law. And Tom Kennedy agrees: “We’re seeing people move beyond the traditional ‘accent wall’ and embrace murals that wrap around an entire room.”

Shop wall mural designs

Where should you avoid a wall mural?

Caroline Woolmer advises against covering every wall of a large, high-traffic room, where intricate detail can become overwhelming. Busy, functional kitchens are also best avoided, she says, as appliances, cabinets, splashbacks and shelving already create plenty of "visual noise."

It's important to note that wallpaper murals also aren't designed for wet areas such as showers, or for walls that take regular splashes. If you want a mural in a kitchen or bathroom, tiles or printed waterproof panels are a better option (more on those below).

When in doubt, John Law's advice is to "choose the technique according to the architecture and function of the room, rather than simply choosing the most decorative option."

Are wall murals easy to hang?

A mural is no harder to physically hang than standard wallpaper, but it needs more planning. With a repeat pattern, you're matching each drop to the last. With a mural, you're building one picture, so where each panel lands matters far more.

"A mural is designed as one continuous piece of artwork, so the placement of each panel matters," explains Tom Kennedy. "You need to think about where the design starts and finishes, and make sure the panels are in the correct order."

John Law agrees that "positioning is everything." He says: "You need to think about exactly where the composition will sit in relation to doors, windows, fireplaces and other architectural features."

Wall preparation is important, too. "Walls need to be clean, smooth and properly prepared, because imperfections can be much more noticeable across a large-scale image," says Tom. Our guide to how to hang lining paper explains how to create a smooth base.

Other ways to create a mural effect

Printed wallpaper may be the most familiar route to a mural, but it isn’t always the most practical. In kitchens, bathrooms and other hardworking spaces, or rooms where you want something more permanent (or less), a different medium may suit you better.

1. Tiles for kitchens and bathrooms

Tiles let you bring a mural into the kinds of spaces where wallpaper would struggle. "In kitchens and bathrooms they can often be a more practical way of achieving it because you are combining decoration with a surface that is designed to cope with water, steam, splashes and everyday wear," says Lesley Taylor, interior designer and founder of Baked Tiles.

She suggests giving the design room to be appreciated. "Behind a freestanding bath can be beautiful because the tiled wall becomes a backdrop to the bath itself. A full shower wall can work incredibly well too," she says. "In kitchens, I often think people underestimate the potential of the wall between the worktop and cabinetry. It does not just have to be treated as a practical splashback."

You can buy tile sets designed to form one picture, such as Hyperion Tiles' Tropical Oasis mural (£286.17 per m²), or mix illustrated tiles with matching wallpaper. "When the tiles are used together with the wallpaper they create a continuous, almost mural-like story across the wall," says Tom Kennedy.

2. Printed wall panels

Printed waterproof panels offer a larger, grout-free image with fewer joins. "Unlike wallpaper, the panels are designed for wet areas, so they can be used in bathrooms, showers and wet rooms when correctly installed and sealed," says Richard Skeoch, director at Hyperion Tiles, which stocks Splashbax panels. Thinner 3mm and 5mm panels can also be fitted over existing tiles, he says, provided the surface is sound and properly prepared.

Designs like this Tropical Rainforest Shower Panel, or this Copper Concrete Shower Panel, both from Hyperion Tiles needn't be limited to bathrooms either. They would also make a great option in home gyms or indoor swimming pools in basement conversion ideas too.

3. Hand-painted murals and decals

For a truly one-off design, nothing beats going down the hand painted route. “Paint is probably the most versatile alternative,” says John Law. “A hand-painted mural can be tailored precisely to a room, following architectural details or creating an illusion such as a landscape beyond the wall.” He recommends them for bedrooms, studies and dining rooms, where you can afford to be more decorative.

The trade-off is time and cost. A hand-painted mural is usually commissioned from an artist and built up over days rather than hours, so expect to pay more than you would for a printed design. Confident painters can tackle simpler designs themselves, such as bold shapes or a soft colour-block landscape. And if you tire of it, a few coats of paint will take you back to a blank wall.

At the other end of the scale are vinyl decals, which John Law suggests for children’s rooms and playrooms. “They can introduce a large-scale image without committing to a fixed scheme,” he says. That makes them ideal for spaces that need to grow with a child, as a decal can simply be peeled off once a favourite theme has been outgrown. Removable wallpaper offers a similar low-commitment route, with a fuller, more polished finish.

How do you clean and repair a wall mural?

The best way to clean a wall mural will depend on the material you choose. Always check the manufacturer’s care instructions first, as some murals are washable and others can only be wiped gently. Grasscloth and other textured finishes generally need more care than vinyl or printed panels, for example.

Printed wall panels are the simplest of all to maintain. “Regular cleaning using a soft cloth and a suitable bathroom cleaner [is] generally all that is needed,” says Richard Skeoch. “I would avoid abrasive scourers and harsh chemicals, including bleach, as these can damage the finish over time.”

Repairs are trickier than with repeat-pattern wallpaper, because you can’t simply cut a patch from a spare roll. Keep a note of the design, size and order details so you can request a replacement panel if one gets damaged. Hand-painted murals are the exception, as an artist can usually touch up any damage.

What are the most common wall mural mistakes?

A mural is a big investment in both money and impact, so small slip-ups are more noticeable than with a plain painted wall or a busy repeat pattern. Most mistakes happen before the paste comes out, at the planning, measuring and ordering stages. Here’s what our experts say to watch out for:

Not planning where the image will fall

Think about how the design meets doors, windows, fireplaces and fittings before you start. You don't want to make your cuts and then discover that you've lost an important part of the image. "Moving the starting point by only a few centimetres can sometimes make the whole wall feel much more balanced," says Lesley Taylor.

Measuring without a margin

"Always add the recommended safety margin, so you have enough wallpaper to work with," says Sandra Willund. If you're covering several walls, she advises adding the widths together and ordering them as one mural. "Otherwise, the design won't align from one wall to the next."

Making the feature too small

"People can become nervous around pattern and end up restricting it to a tiny panel, but that can make it feel more like an afterthought," says Lesley. "A complete patterned wall can actually feel calmer than a small patch of pattern."

Skimping on preparation

Lumps, cracks and uneven plaster show up more across a large image, so take time to get walls smooth. See our guide to preparing walls for painting, which applies to wall coverings too. Then, says Sandra, "get the first panel perfectly straight – it makes the rest much easier."

Choosing a mural in isolation

It’s easy to fall for a design on screen without picturing it in your own space. “Consider the whole room before choosing your mural,” says John Law. “Look at the natural light, flooring, furniture and what you see when you enter the room.” A design that looks fresh in a bright, south-facing room can feel heavy in a darker one, so think about how the room is used and lit throughout the day.

Skipping the sample

Colours on screen rarely match the real thing, and the finish of a mural (matte, textured or glossy) can change how it reads in a room. Richard Skeoch recommends, “ordering a sample first so you can see the colour, finish and scale of the design in the actual room.” Samples are usually inexpensive; Divine Savages’ start from £3, for example. Pin one to the wall and check it in both daylight and artificial light before you commit.

How much do wall murals costs?

The cost of a wall mural depends on the size of your wall, the material and whether the design is made to measure. Most are priced by area rather than by the roll, so measure up before you start comparing.

Printed made-to-measure murals are the most affordable option. Rebel Walls’ designs start from £43 per square metre. “You simply enter your wall dimensions, and the mural is produced to fit your space,” says Sandra Willund. Designer and textured finishes cost more.

Tiled and panel murals sit at the top end, with many designs costing around £200-300 per square metre. For made-to-measure printed panels, Richard Skeoch advises budgeting, “based on the complete area rather than a simple price per panel,” and factoring in labour if you’re using a professional installer.

Speaking of labour, a decorator typically charges around £150–£250 per day, according to our guide to how much it costs to wallpaper a room. That makes a professional finish worth considering for a large or bespoke design. As John Law puts it, “the cost of getting the installation right is relatively small compared with the cost of the wallcovering itself."

FAQs

How do you stop a mural overpowering a room?

If you're worried about a mural dominating a room, Caroline Woolmer says a single feature wall is the easiest way in. A large-scale scenic design can also be softened with a dado rail or wall panelling, which adds structure and a more traditional feel.

Treat the rest of the room as the supporting cast. Caroline suggests picking a handful of colours from the mural to repeat as accents, and choosing small-scale patterns such as ditsy florals, fine stripes or subtle geometrics. Avoid large, bold prints and high-contrast colours that compete with the design.

Tom Kennedy offers two routes. "If the design is particularly detailed or colourful, I'd keep the rest of the scheme relatively calm and let the walls do the talking," he says. "Alternatively, you can take one or two colours from the mural and repeat them through curtains, upholstery or furniture to create a more cocooning, colour-drenched look."

Can you hang a wall mural yourself?

"Hanging a wall mural is much easier than many people think, and it's definitely a realistic DIY project," says Sandra Willund. Many murals use paste-the-wall papers, which are easier to position than traditional paste-the-paper designs.

Our other experts urge a little more caution. "If you've never wallpapered before, a mural isn't necessarily where I'd start," Tom Kennedy says. "There's a certain amount of pressure because you're dealing with a large-scale image rather than a repeating pattern, so for an expensive or bespoke mural we'd personally use a professional decorator."

John Law takes the same view. "A confident DIY decorator could certainly tackle one, but for a large or bespoke mural I'd use a professional. The cost of getting the installation right is relatively small compared with the cost of the wallcovering itself."

Can you paint over a wall mural if you change your mind?

You can, but it's not usually the best option. Our guide to painting over wallpaper explains that experts generally recommend stripping first for the best finish. Bold, high-contrast imagery may need a specialist primer and several coats to cover, and vinyl or textured papers can stop paint from adhering properly.

Sandra Willund agrees: "When it comes to painting over a mural, I'd recommend removing the wallpaper first and properly preparing the wall," she says. "This gives you the best foundation for whatever comes next." If you like to change your interiors often, she suggests a peel-and-stick mural, which is "designed to be easy to put up and take down."

If you're going it alone, make sure you also read our expert guides on how to wallpaper around a window and how to hang patterned wallpaper.

So you've installed an extractor fan, but your bathroom is still getting condensation – what now? While this might be a confusing situation to be in if you feel like you've done all the right steps, there could be some other factors at play.

Condensation forms when moisture-heavy air hits a cold surface, which is why bathrooms are so prone to it, especially in winter. The best bathroom extractor fan should help to reduce it, but it can't remove it directly, and there may be other reasons why you're getting so much.

If you want to get to the bottom of the condensation in your bathroom and tackle it before it becomes a mould and damp problem, you'll want to read our expert advice below.

1. Your extractor fan isn't working properly

Just because you have an extractor fan, it doesn't necessarily mean that it's up to the job – and there are several reasons why it might not be working:

It isn't powerful enough: "Your fan needs to suit your bathroom and its ductwork," explains Rob Stevens, Ventilation and HVAC Expert at Aspect. "If the extraction rate is too low, it will struggle to clear moist air quickly enough."

Fans that switch on and off should have a minimum extraction rate of 15 litres of air per second, according to guidance in England, but you can also use a free online calculator to estimate the airflow required for your space.

It isn't running long enough to remove the moisture: If you have an extractor fan with a humidity sensor, you won't have to think about this, but Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco, suggests leaving it on for at least 20 minutes after your shower.

It is blocked with debris: Your extractor fan will struggle to remove moisture from the air if it's clogged up with dirt and dust, which is why Michael says cleaning it out as needed is so important. Our guide on how to clean a bathroom extractor fan will teach you how to do so safely.

The room isn't getting enough replacement air: To ensure your bathroom has enough airflow for the fan to work properly, Michael says the room shouldn't be airtight, and there needs to be a sufficient gap beneath the door.

It's fitted too low: "Warm, moist air rises, so the extraction point should be as high as practical, on the ceiling or no more than 40cm below it," says Rob Stevens. "If yours is positioned much lower it might be worth getting advice to see if it can be easily moved to a higher position."

Shop these top-rated extractor fans

2. The surfaces are particuarly cold

While condensation can be a sign that your extractor fan isn't working properly, it might just mean that your surfaces are particularly cold – especially if your home is poorly insulated and there's a lot of moisture in the air.

"Even with good ventilation, some condensation can still form on particularly cold surfaces, especially during winter," explains Damian Wallis.

However, if condensation is regularly building up and you notice black spots or musty smells, it's well worth investigating further.

Other ways to reduce condensation

If you're looking for other ways to reduce condensation alongside your extractor fan, you could try:

1. Opening your window during or after a shower: This will help to remove humid air, explains Damian Willis, and works well when combined with wiping down wet surfaces afterwards.

2. Wiping the condensation away: Using the best window vac or a squeegee, wipe the condensation off your windows, mirrors and tiles, and dry any remaining wet patches with an absorbent cloth, recommends Rob Stevens.

3. Using your fan's boost setting (if it has one): "This increases extraction to remove humid air more quickly, helping existing condensation evaporate and reducing the chance of more forming," explains Rob. "If your fan doesn’t have a boost setting, keep it running at its normal speed to help the room dry out."

As annoying as it is, condensation is very common in bathrooms. However, by following the steps above, you can help to reduce it.

For more advice, read our guide to normal humidity levels in a house or learn how to stop condensation in your home.

It always seems to happen at the worst possible moment. You’re getting the kids ready for school, or the in-laws are arriving for the weekend when disaster strikes: the toilet blocks, the shower stops draining or an ominous drip-drip-drip starts coming from the ceiling. Cue an emergency call to the plumber, a whole lot of hassle and a bill to make your eyes water.

Yet all this drama and expense could have been avoided if you'd only ditched a few bad bathroom habits. From what you flush down the loo to the little leaks you keep meaning to fix, seemingly harmless oversights can snowball into costly problems.

We asked plumbing experts which behaviours to break before your beautiful bathroom design springs a not-so-pretty surprise.

1. Using your toilet as a trash can

"When you treat your loo like a bin, you're always going to create problems,” says Matthew Powell, founder of WarmZilla. His number one frustration? People are still flushing wet wipes. "They don't break apart in the water like toilet paper does – the same goes for cotton buds and sanitary products. They catch on rough sections of pipework, build up with grease and other debris in the drainage system, and eventually create a blockage.”

If your toilet drains slowly, you hear gurgling sounds from it (or nearby plug holes), or water rises higher when you flush, there's likely an issue.

"Start by using a plunger," says Neil Lampton, plumbing expert at property maintenance company Aspect. "Though you’ll only be successful if the blockage is within the trap, rather than further down the pipework or in the soil stack."

Alternatively, try these methods for unblocking a toilet without a plunger if you don't have one to hand.

"If you catch a blockage early, a plumber or drainage engineer may be able to clear it for £100 to £200 if the pipework is easy to access,” says Matthew. "If the blockage is further along the drain or it's caused sewage to back up, the bill can rise into several hundred pounds. In more serious cases, damaged pipework or flooring affected by contaminated water can make the repair very expensive.”

Simply put, you should only ever flush toilet paper and human waste in a toilet. And if your toilet is already draining slowly, don't repeatedly flush it as you can cause the bowl to overflow.

2. Washing your hair down the shower drain

“Almost one in five (19%) people admit to putting hair down the drain, rising to 27% of under-35s*," reveals Chris Houghton, home expert at HomeServe.

"Hair knots together with soap scum and shampoo residue, forming a dense clog just below the plughole," he explains. "Signs of an issue include water building around your feet in the shower, a bath that’s slow to empty, or a bad smell from the drain. Left alone, This slow drain becomes a full blockage, and standing water can damage shower tray seals and leak into the floor below."

So what do you do about it? "A cheap hair catcher will stop most of the build-up," says Chris. "Clear it after every few showers and pull out any visible hair from the plughole once a week.”

"Chemical products are available to clear blocked shower drains but take care when using them, it’s possible to damage your pipes if you use them too often," adds Neil Lampton. "A mixture of bicarbonate of soda and vinegar can sometimes be more effective. If your shower keeps blocking it’s time to call a professional, who will use specialist equipment to clear challenging blockages – with tools that can reach over 20 meters into the pipes."

*Based on Opinium research commissioned by HomeServe amongst 2,000 UK adults (18+), with fieldwork conducted between 2nd and 5th June 2026.

Shop clogged hair prevention kit

3. Neglecting damaged silicone sealant

It's hard to disagree that black mould or peeling sealant around a bath, sink or shower looks unattractive. But it's not just a cosmetic issue. "The seal around a bath or shower is there to stop water finding its way behind tiles," says Matthew Powell. "Once that silicone starts splitting, water can escape every time the shower is used. At first there may be very little to see, which is why people can ignore it for months, but eventually you might notice staining on the ceiling below, a musty smell, loose flooring, swollen skirting boards or tiles beginning to move.

According to Matthew, you can usually replace a failed seal for around £80-150, but if you leave the leak long enough, that cost could skyrocket. "If you've got damaged plasterboard or rotten timber, your floor and ceiling might need replacing, and that can easily turn into a bill over £1,000," he tells us. "So check the seal around baths, shower trays and basins regularly and act as soon as you see gaps or lifting."

"If you’re siliconing a shower yourself, remove the old silicone completely, clean and dry the surface properly and allow the new bathroom sealant to cure before using the shower," Matthew advises. "If water has already reached the room below or the floor feels soft, I’d get the area checked, because if you just put fresh silicone over the gap you're not going to repair any damage that’s already happened underneath."

Shop silicone cleaning and replacement

4. Using the same strong cleaner on every surface

Sometimes, especially when you're in a hurry, it's easiest to reach for the strongest cleaner in the cupboard and blitz your bathroom with it. But do so at your peril. "A cleaner that works on your toilet bowl isn’t automatically suitable for your taps," says James Roberts, a qualified plumber and director at Sanctuary Bathrooms.

"Abrasive pads scratch finishes, while bleach and some acidic cleaners damage certain coatings. Even vinegar isn’t universally safe: some tap manufacturers specifically advise against it as it can damage chrome and other finishes. Scratches, flaking or a newly patchy finish are reasons to stop and check the product’s care instructions."

For routine cleaning, James says you should always follow the fitting manufacturer’s guidance and use a soft cloth. "Where a cleaner is permitted, follow its dilution and contact-time instructions, rinse thoroughly and dry afterwards. If you’ve used something unsuitable, rinse away the residue and ask the supplier about the damage before trying another product. Cleaning cannot restore a coating that has been stripped away; you may need a replacement component or a new bathroom tap, with fitting costs on top.”

5. Dropping unsuitable cleaning blocks into the cistern

It's not just cleaning sprays that can be troublesome – according to James Roberts, loo cleaning blocks placed in the cistern may also cause damage. "Some bleach or chlorine products can damage internal components, while fragments from cleaning blocks can interfere with the flush-valve seal," he tells us.

"Signs there's an issue include water continuing to trickle into the pan after flushing, or the cistern repeatedly refilling when nobody has used it. Those symptoms can have other causes, too, so they need checking rather than guessing at."

"If a toilet flush problem develops, stop using the unsuitable product and have any remaining block removed safely, then get the valve and seals inspected," he says. "Sometimes replacing a seal is enough; otherwise the valve may need replacing. Faulty cistern-valve replacement typically costs anywhere between £50-£300 plus VAT, depending on the mechanism and access. A leaking toilet also wastes water and can increase a metered bill.”

6. Pouring neat bleach down the toilet to ‘clean’ it

This is something I've definitely been guilty of, especially just before I leave the house for the day as I feel it will have all day to work and make my loo basin brighter. But according to Julie Gokce, Senior Bathroom Expert at More Bathrooms , it's a total no-no.

"Neat bleach left sitting in the bowl attacks the rubber seals, washers and plastic components inside the cistern and flush valve. Over time, these become brittle, crack and start leaking, often within a year in homes where bleach is used weekly," she says.

“The telltale signs are a toilet that won't stop running, a weak flush, or water pooling at the base. A simple repair, replacing the flush valve and seals, usually costs £80-£150, but if the leak has damaged flooring or caused damp, remedial work can run to £300-£800.

“The fix here is to use toilet cleaner designed for the job, or dilute bleach heavily and never leave it sitting," advises Julie. "If damage is done, replacing the internal components is a quick job and far cheaper than ignoring it.”

7. Ignoring a dripping tap

Whether it's just a case of you not turning it off properly, or a tap that still lets out water when fully closed, a persistent drip wastes water and can cause more damage the longer its neglected.

“A dripping tap feels harmless, until it's been staining your basin for months," says Julie Gokce. "More seriously, a leaking waste pipe under the sink can rot the cabinet base before you even notice."

“The signs are easy to miss, like a musty smell in the cabinet, warped wood, or water stains on the shelf," she continues. "A dripping tap repair is usually £60-£120 including parts. If a leak has rotted the cabinet or floor, replacement and repair can cost £300-£800."

“It's worth checking under your sink every few months for drips or damp patches and sorting small leaks straight away," says Julie. "Also, a £5 washer now can save you hundreds later.”

"The longer it's left, the more likely the whole tap will need replacing, whereas if you notice it early, you'll likely pay just an hour's labour, plus the cost of a replacement washer or cartridge," adds Neil Lampton.

8. Leaving water sitting on bathroom furniture

This is one of James Powell's biggest pet peeves. "Splashes left around the basin or on cabinet fronts gradually damage timber-based bathroom furniture, particularly where water reaches joints or exposed edges," he says.

"Heavy condensation can contribute, too. Swollen edges, lifting finishes or distorted panels are warning signs. The repair may involve replacing a door or panel; more extensive damage can mean replacing the unit and paying to disconnect and reconnect the basin."

To be on the safe side, wipe splashes dry immediately and always use the best bathroom extractor fan when showering to limit condensation. "If damage has started, stop the source of wetting and ask the supplier whether individual parts are available," says James. "Drying the surface won’t necessarily repair swollen material, and painting over it is unlikely to solve the underlying problem.”

9. Not wiping down your shower screen

Another place where you don't want to let water rest unattended is your shower screen. "Not only can it leave limescale marks that become hard to shift, it also drips down and collects around silicone sealant," says Neil Lampton.

"If your bathroom ventilation isn’t good enough, these areas can stay damp," he adds, "creating the right conditions for mould growth."

While we already know the issues damaged silicone can cause, replacing a cloudy shower screen or enclosure with damaged shower-door tracks is also an expensive business.

Cleaning a shower screen needn't be a huge chore – it's more a case of getting into a good routine. "Keep a squeegee in the shower and wipe down the screen after every use," advises Neil. "Wipe away water collecting in corners and door tracks, clean regularly and use the extractor fan to help the area dry. Also, regularly lean the screen with a limescale remover, or try white vinegar and warm water."

Shop shower screen cleaning

10. Letting limescale build up on your shower head

Our final bad habit is a biggie – ignoring those tell-tale crusty deposits deposits gathering on your shower nozzle. Suddenly, your 'rainfall' shower experience is more like a drizzle, but that's not all.

"Limescale is a hard, chalky deposit left behind by minerals in water," says Neil Lampton. "If you let it build up it will block showerhead nozzles and restrict water flow, which could end up in you having to fork out on a new shower part."

Removing limescale from your shower head may resolve the problem without a professional repair. "Wipe it dry after every use, and clean it regularly with a suitable limescale remover to prevent deposits building up," says Neil. "If your shower head is removable, you may be able to soak it in a descaling solution. But if a plumber is needed, charges start from one hour’s labour, plus any replacement parts."

FAQs

Aside from plumbing, what else can be damaged by bad bathroom etiquette?

You might not need a plumber in these cases, but nevertheless, these ruinous routines could end up causing costly damage.

We'll start with one I'm always nagging about in my own home – damp towels left in a heap on the bathroom floor. "They can traps moisture against the floor, which can encourage mould growth on the surface beneath it," says Neil Lampton. "This might stain grout and let mould form, meaning cleaning or worse, a regrouting job for you."

Next up, the curse of the pesky shower curtain. Now I've not had to live with one of these for years, but if you do, make sure you never leave it outside the bath. "Doing so causes water runs down the curtain onto the bathroom floor instead of back into the bath," says Neil. "This repeated wetting can allow water through gaps around flooring, bath edges or damaged seals, potentially affecting the floor beneath and the ceiling below."

So make sure you wrangle your curtain into the bath every time every time you shower. And afterwards, spread it out along the rail so it can dry properly, rather than leaving it bunched together.

Feeling like your neglected bathroom needs some love? Let these bathroom trends inspire your next makeover. Not got much to spend? Here are some budget ideas that will help you cut costs on a bathroom makeover.

We all know that there are various life events that cause huge amounts of stress – births, deaths, illness, house moves and so on – but very often, there are few that get left off the list, meaning they sneak up and catch us unaware. Renovations, and even seemingly simple home improvements, are prime examples of these.

While renovating a house is hugely exciting and, most of the time, very rewarding, it can also be exhausting, both physically and mentally, meaning it can put a huge amount of pressure on a relationship, particularly for those who have bravely decided to live on site while the project is underway. In fact, according to a recent survey by finance provider Novuna, nearly one in five homeowners (19%) say that a home improvement project has lead to them considering separation – or even resulted in an actual breakup.

Having carried out numerous renovations over the years, I am no stranger to DIY disputes with my husband. Just lately we have been carrying out a few smaller home upgrades which have reminded me of the importance of finding the best ways to work together in order to remain on speaking terms. Here's what I've learned over the years (and what I'm still trying to get better at).

1. Start with a crystal clear plan for the project

While the fact that a renovation project runs more smoothly when you have a firm plan of what's on the agenda is hardly breaking news, it is amazing how ill-prepared we were when we embarked on all of our projects. So much stress and, subsequently, niggles, could have been side-stepped had we been more organised.

We completely failed to devise a proper schedule of works in the past, both when building the extension as well as when remodelling the interiors, which basically meant that total chaos ensued as we haphazardly went around knocking down walls and ripping out bathrooms before carrying out jobs that should have come first.

On some more recent, albeit less disruptive, home improvement tasks, such as redecorating the ground floor spaces and remodelling our teenage son's bedroom, we have been far more organised in our approach and guess what? Knowing what we were doing, and when, made for a much happier process overall.

2. Don't let the project take over your entire lives

If you are living on site while renovating, as we did, the project can easily become all-consuming and it is incredibly difficult to switch off from it all when you are surrounded by everything that still needs doing.

It is so important to remember that there is more to your lives than just the building work around you, something Giulia P. Davis, LMFT, a licensed therapist and founder of Mycelia Therapy, is keen to point out. "Couples can accidentally turn their relationship into a project-management meeting. Suddenly, every conversation is about budgets, deliveries, contractors, paint colours, or what needs to be done next. You can be communicating constantly and still feel emotionally disconnected."

So what does Giulia suggest? "I don't think the goal should be to prevent every renovation argument. Some disagreement is inevitable. A more useful goal is to keep the renovation from becoming the place where every unresolved relationship issue gets aired."

3. You won't agree on everything – and that's ok

Something I have found really useful over the years is realising that while my husband and I do have fairly similar tastes when it comes to the interior design trends we like, and how we want the house to look and feel overall, that isn't always going to be the case. Likewise, we work in really different ways – as soon as something needs doing, he has to jump into action and when he does, he works really methodically. I, on the other hand, could probably snag myself a gold medal in procrastination, and operate on a disorderly kind of schedule. But you know what? That's ok.

What matters most is that we understand our different ways of working and navigate this accordingly. Dr. Sarah Boss, psychiatrist and clinical director at The Balance, believes that you don't have to agree on everything in order for a home upgrade project to run smoothly. "Home renovations are one of the most reliable stress tests a relationship can face because they compress every potential conflict trigger into one sustained project: money, aesthetics, decision fatigue, living in disruption, and the constant negotiation of whose vision takes priority.

"The couples who navigate it well are almost never the ones who agree on everything," reveals Dr. Boss. "They're the ones who have established in advance which decisions belong to whom and where the genuine non-negotiables are, so that every choice doesn't become a referendum on whose taste or judgment matters more."

4. The 70:30 method can prevent so many niggles

I really wish I had known about the 70:30 method the first time we renovated – it would have helped so much. Now I have got to grips with the concept, all kinds of projects (and life in general) have started to run a little more smoothly.

"The 70:30 method has real merit as a framework precisely because it moves away from the fiction of perfect equality in decision-making," picks up Dr. Sarah Boss. "Fifty-fifty sounds fair, but in practice it means every decision requires full consensus, which is exhausting and breeds resentment when one person consistently compromises more than the other without it being acknowledged.

"Dividing domains – for example where one partner leads on structural and renovation budget decisions and the other on interiors and finishes – reduces the decision load and gives each person genuine ownership of something. The method works best when the division reflects actual strengths and preferences rather than being arbitrarily assigned, and when both partners agree upfront that delegated decisions are genuinely delegated rather than subject to veto after the fact."

Giulia P. Davis is also a fan of this approach, with one caveat. "I see value in a 70:30 approach because couples don't need equal control over every decision; they need to feel equally important. If one partner cares enormously about the kitchen design and the other barely has an opinion, giving the more invested partner the lead can reduce pointless negotiation. But they should share a 'veto' for decisions that significantly affect finances, comfort, or the other person's daily life."

5. Time away from the house is key to happiness

This is possibly the best thing you can do if you feel your relationship is going a little bit off the rails during a renovation – down tools and get on out of there.

I used to feel guilty for taking a day off from our renovation project when there was clearly so much to do, and there is no getting away from the fact that having break means renovation timelines get stretched a little, but in the grand scheme of things this is so beneficial. Stepping away from the rubble, dust and general mayhem gives you a chance to claw back a little perspective on the whole thing and, even if you find yourselves talking about the project while you are out and about, you will usually find you return with a sense of clarity and renewed enthusiasm that wasn't there before.

Giulia P. Davis is of the opinion that you should put rules in place before the project begins in order to ensure your relationship survives renovation stress.

"I'd introduce something I call a 'relationship budget.' Alongside the renovation budget, agree on what you're protecting: one evening a week with no renovation talk, regular meals together, or a rule that disagreements don't continue once either person is too overwhelmed to have a productive conversation. The renovation will eventually end. Your relationship has to survive the process – not just the finished house."

FAQs

Could a project manager help prevent renovation rows?

While a project manager isn't always needed for every renovation – for example on small one-room projects, or where you are already an experienced renovator with plenty of time to spare – when it comes to ensuring the smooth running of a renovation, co-ordinating trades and keeping the whole thing on budget, their input can often be invaluable. What this means is that hiring a project manager can take the pressure off a relationship.

That said, you need to be prepared to see your professional fees rise – project managers tend to charge between between 3%-7% of the overall build cost. It is worth bearing in mind, however, that many renovators and self-builders report that hiring a project manager meant it was easier to keep things on budget overall.

If you are toying with the idea of taking on a doer-upper, make sure you know how to assess a home for renovation before taking the plunge – it could save you a huge amount of heartache later down the line.

After disappearing from doors during the last century, interior experts are predicting that in-keeping with the rise in maximalist design, finger plates are back in vogue.

Also known as ‘push plates’, they cover the part of a door that’s likeliest to be touched when someone pushes it open and have historically been made of brass or ceramic and featured ornate designs.

But, it's not just about aesthetics for this particular piece of hardware, which is why they've become a key feature our expert DIYer's Victorian renovation. A finger plate possesses a function: it protects the door from getting dirty or wearing away, which can occur due to friction and repeated contact with sweat and oils from skin.

Why are they becoming popular again?

“Finger plates are making a comeback because of the maximalism trend in interiors,” explains Sarah Willshaw, managing director of Willow & Stone. “People want to put lots of design back into their homes, and finger plates provide a way to express your taste and add detail.

“Designers would often use finger plates as a vehicle to express their taste,” she continues, "partly as the aesthetic movement in the late 19th century had a strapline: ‘art for art’s sake’. Items like finger plates of may have had functionality, but designers could still incorporate a beautiful design."

And, despite their ornate appearance, they were also accessible in terms of price as they were usually thin and formed from a very thin sheet of pressed brass over a wooden mould. “They were cheap to produce and lightweight, but the design could still be fairly detailed,” Sarah explains. “The designs you’ll see will often be organic, leafy or floral – something like a tulip."

As finger plates are also often made from brass – an antimicrobial material – they have the added advantage of being able to limit the spread of germs between people, something that may be an advantage if you are building a home for a young family, or even a lifetime home.

How to choose fingerplates for your home

According to Beth Dale, hardware buying manager at B&Q, the best finger plate to choose will depend on both the door itself and the wider design scheme.

“First, consider the size of the plate and make sure it is proportionate to the door and handle,” she says. “It’s also worth checking how the plate is fixed, as screw-fixed options tend to offer a more traditional, permanent solution, while adhesive options can be useful where drilling isn’t desirable.

“Also, when choosing a style, consider the other hardware in the room,” she adds. “Matching the finish of the finger plate with the door handle, hinges and other metal details can create a more cohesive look, while mixing finishes can work well for a more contemporary or eclectic interior.”

Another type of door furniture that you might consider adding to an internal door is a kick plate, continues Beth. “As the name suggests, kick plates protect the lower section of the door from scuffs, marks and knocks caused by shoes, bags, pets and general household use.

“Kick plates are particularly practical on doors leading into utility rooms, kitchens, garages, boot rooms or other busy areas of the home. They can also be useful if you have a door that is regularly opened with your foot when carrying shopping, laundry or other items," she advises.

Where to buy fingerplates

If you're on the hunt for original fingerplates, you may struggle due to their fragile nature, although It’s sometimes possible to unearth original brass ones at antique shops or via online marketplaces such as eBay. But it’s certainly easier to find reproduction pieces.

This Art Nouveau design at Willow & Stone for example is based on an original pattern, and traditionally crafted at a foundry in the West Midlands.

But, if you're building a more contemporary home, simpler, modern finger plates will provide the same functionality without the ornate details. Ranging from crisp rectangles to fancier styles with bevelled edges, modern finger plates are widely available from retailers such as B&Q.

Simple finger plates

Traditional finger plates

How to install a finger plate on an internal door

I’ve been renovating my late Victorian home for much of the last decade, and antique finger plates have provided the perfect finishing touch to internal doors around the house. These are the steps I've followed when installing them.

1. Choose the right placement

Finger plates are usually installed on internal doors above the door handle on the lock stile, in the area that’s most likely to be pushed by an extended hand. With this in mind, consider the ages or heights of everyone living in your home, before installing a finger plate. Typically, finger plates on both sides of the door are installed in approximately the same location.

“Position the finger plate on the door where the door is pushed open, and check that it sits comfortably alongside the handle without interfering with its operation,” says Beth Dale. “For screw-fixed finger plates, mark the fixing points with a pencil.”

I placed my finger plates centrally on the lock stile, aligning the bottom of the finger plate with the top of the door’s middle rail.

2. Prepare the door

The right way to prepare your door for installing a finger plate will depend on which mounting method is required. As Beth Dale notes, “many finger plates are designed to be screwed directly onto the door, while some may use adhesive.

“For a screw-fixed finger plate, use a drill to make small pilot holes if required.” One of the best cordless drills, used with a small wood bit (narrower than the mounting screws), will do the job nicely. You may need to buy screws to mount your finger plates – I ordered small, antique brass screws to match the finger plate material.

“Meanwhile, for adhesive-backed finger plates, make sure the door surface is clean, dry and free from dust or grease before positioning the plate,” adds Beth.

3. Attach the finger plate

The next step – attaching the finger plate – will vary depending on the model. Beth Dale advises the following:

If the finger plate is screw-mounted: “Position the finger plate over the holes and secure it using the supplied screws, taking care not to overtighten them, as this could damage the door surface.”

If the finger plate is adhesive-backed: “Peel away the backing, carefully align the plate and press it firmly into place. Always follow the manufacturer’s fitting instructions, particularly regarding the type of surface the plate can be applied to and how long the adhesive needs to bond before the door is used.”

Once fitted, the finger plate will benefit from occasional cleaning. Brass finger plates will stay looking their best if treated with the right product, such as this brass polish from B&Q..

FAQs

Why was brass commonly used to make finger plates?

“Brass was used heavily in Victorian times not only because it has an aesthetic quality, but because its copper content combats the spread of germs, which is an amazing benefit in a finger plate,” says Sarah Willshaw.

“Bevelled glass fingerplates gave a much cleaner look in late Victorian times, and another very popular material was ceramic,” she says. “Ceramic finger plates often had an interesting shape and a smooth front. They were generally used in upstairs bedrooms because they were considered less lavish than brass – people kept their cheaper items for the upstairs.”

Brass is still widely used to make finger plates, as are alternative materials such as stainless steel, nickel and porcelain.

Are you taking your interior design to the max(imalist)? Our guides on pattern drenching mistakes and oversized lighting ideas will help you add detail to the best possible effect.

Cross-pavement EV charging has become a lot easier with the Government confirming homeowners will now no longer need planning permission to install it.

Previously a home improvement upgrade that required planning approval, cross-pavement charging means those homes without driveways or off-street parking can more easily own an electric car.

And, relaxing the red tape means millions of properties will now be able to benefit from domestic electricity rates to charge vehicles, rather than having to find and use a dedicated EV charging station.

Approval from local authorities will still be required

Although the planning permission fee will now be waived for anyone looking to install a cross-pavement solutions such as a cable gully, homeowners won't simply be able to start the work when they choose, or lay a cable across the pavement from their car to their home.

Local authorities, in particular the highways department, will still need to sign off the proposed work.

Nonetheless, with rising fuel prices, removing the extra cost will make owning an electric vehicle more accessible. And, as Homebuilding & Renovating reported earlier this year, the changes will bring cross-pavement charging more in line with the current permitted development rules for installing an EV charger on your home or garage.

Total cost-savings could amount to thousands

Owning an electric car is becoming increasingly common in the UK, with the change in rules following a record electric car sales month in September 2026, where nearly 100,000 electric car sales were registered.

Buses and Local Transport Minister Simon Lightwood said: "We’re saving drivers up to £300 off the cost of installing home charging by cutting unnecessary red tape.

"The EV transition is in full swing – sales are up 36% on last year and over 190,000 have saved thousands making the switch in the last year alone."

According to the Government, cross-pavement charging means those residents who use it will also access cheaper domestic electricity prices, helping them make savings of up to £1,750 on running costs per year.

Vicky Edmonds, CEO OF EVA England welcomed the plans, saying: "This might look like a small planning change, but for someone without a driveway, it could make the difference between being able to afford an electric car and ruling one out altogether. Removing the need for planning permission for cross-pavement charging is a really welcome and meaningful step towards a fairer transition.

"Our research found that 60% of petrol and diesel drivers without off-street parking would never consider an EV. Being able to connect a car parked on the street to cheaper home electricity could help change that," she said. "It’s now up to local authorities and landlords to make these solutions easier to access in practice."

Being able to include EV charger in your sales details could also add value to your home and improve the chance of selling it, said Dickson Abegunde, director of strategic partnerships at Zoopla – the first property website to help buyers search for homes with EV charging.

Additional consultations planned for EV charging

As well as scrapping planning permission, a further two consultations have been launched to look at additional ways of making EV home charging easier, and whether mandatory requirements are needed for landlords and freeholders to make it harder to refuse tenant applications for an EV charger.

The closing date for these consultation is set as 16 December 2026, meaning even more news could be on the way regarding changes to the current guidelines.

Many plants lose their leaves in autumn and winter, but evergreen trees continue to add interest, colour and texture in every season. And, despite the generic name, they are rarely just green. Some may even change colour with the seasons, presenting shades of misty blue, rich gold, glowing red and moody grey, with leaves varying in shape from finely tapered conifer needles to lush, exotically swaying palm fronds.

Certain evergreen trees also have flowers, some bear fruit while others have attractively shaped cones, decorative seeds, nuts and dramatically coloured or textured bark.

For homeowners starting out on their garden design, or adding to their existing plans, the best evergreen trees are guaranteed to bring structure, colour and interest to your plot. So whether you want to squeeze a single evergreen in a pot by the front door, or prefer to plant a big tree in a forever garden, our selection has all the options covered.

1. Bay tree (Laurus nobilis)

• Best for: growing in a pot
• Height: 3m
• Spread: 1m

Perfect for beginner gardeners, this is an elegant, low-maintenance tree which thrives either in a pot with well-drained soil-based compost or it can be planted in the ground. The glossy leaves are aromatic and edible.

To avoid common bay tree problems, choose a sheltered spot in a sunny site. For container-grown trees, add control release fertiliser pellets or some liquid feed fortnightly in mid-spring to late summer and repot every two to three years.

Lollipop-shaped bay trees bring a touch of formality to the garden. They can be easily shaped and kept tidy by pruning in the summer.

2. Holm oak (Quercus ilex)

• Best for: classic English elegance
• Height: 10m
• Spread: 6m

A shapely tree with a naturally rounded crown and dark, glossy green leaves whose soft spikes resemble holly leaves (this is why it’s sometimes called the Holly Oak). Added interest comes with green acorns, which eventually turn dark red.

This evergreen tree does need regular shaping to keep it a manageable size and it can be trimmed into neat, compact forms, making it a good tree for a small garden.

It’s a tough tree which will tolerate exposed sites and is resistant to salt spray, making it a good choice for a coastal plot. Grow in full sun or dappled shade.

3. Lawson Cypress (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana)

• Best for: a striking accent tree for any size space
• Height and spread: varies according to the cultivar

Looking for a reliable, well-shaped conifer that won’t get out of hand and lead to neighbour tree disputes? Suitable for many different soil types and many varieties will thrive in an exposed or sheltered position.

There are so many different types and colours to choose from. ‘Columnaris’ with its blue-grey foliage is one of the most popular. ‘Golden Wonder’ is rich yellow and ‘Green Pillar’ is a lovely medium-sized tree. If space is very limited, dwarf varieties, such as ‘Aurea Densa’ are a sensible pick.

Shop for manageable conifers

4. Eucalyptus gunnii (Cider Gum)

• Best for: easy fence coverage
• Height: 25m
• Spread: 15m

A tall, skinny evergreen tree with spicy aromatic foliage which is blue-green in younger plants, then matures to a deeper shade. The bark has a tactile, flaky texture for added visual interest. Native to southern Australia, this is one of the fastest growing and hardiest of the eucalyptus varieties, and it also thrives in the UK .

Cut back regularly to keep on top of the size and this will also ensure plenty of attractive new growth with smaller, button-shaped leaves. In the height of summer, it may produce a flush of pretty white flowers. Plant in full sun or part shade.

If you're short on space, Eucalyptus gunnii Azura ('Cagire'), available from Crocus, is a smaller variety – it's also very hardy and can withstand temperatures as low as -20˚C.

5. Olive

• Best for: timeless Mediterranean style
• Height: 7-9m; less if pot grown
• Spread: 7-9m; less if pot grown

Olive trees hail from the Mediterranean so they need warmer climes to thrive. Slow growing, their shimmery silver foliage adds a stylishly subtle backdrop to a muted palette of purple and white flowers.

They are one of the best trees to grow in pots, but you will need to water them weekly in hot, dry spells and give them a fortnightly feed in spring with a granular fertiliser. Make sure you also understand how to prune olive trees to ensure the best shape and future growth.

If temperatures drop to below -12˚C for long periods, the olive tree will need to be over-wintered inside, but it will make a striking addition to your interior during the cooler months.

In sheltered sites, when it’s likely to drop below -10˚C, a temporary horticultural fleece coat should be enough to prevent permanent damage.

6. Oleaster (Eleagnus angustifolia)

• Best for: a hardier olive tree lookalike
• Height: 7m
• Spread: 7m

If you love the look of olive trees, but your growing conditions are too cold or damp, this robust shrub or tree could make an excellent substitute.

The foliage of the so-called Russian Olive has a lovely silvery sheen, it flowers from September to October and develops little orange speckled fruits in February. This plant tolerates full sun, part shade and can cope with moist soil, as well as coastal conditions and exposure to wind.

It is also a good choice for a small garden, as it won’t grow taller than 4m.

7. Eucryphia nymansensis

• Best for: adding kerb appeal in a front garden
• Height: 6-15m
• Spread: 180cm-3.6m

If you're looking for trees that will bring flowers and scents, this variety is worth considering. Also known as the ‘brush bush,’ this tree has the double bonus of dark, glossy evergreen foliage and stunning large, honey scented cup-shaped white flowers from late summer to autumn.

It prefers partial shade or full sun and a sheltered spot, so a woodland or cottage-style garden where it is protected by other trees would be a good bet. It will look after itself once it’s established, and only really requires a light trim in late winter.

8. Strawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo)

• Best for: 12-month interest with flowers, fruit and foliage
• Height: 8m
• Spread: 8m

Garden designers love this evergreen tree for its large, leathery leaves, clusters of fabulous white flowers in late summer and autumn, and the almost cartoon-like red textured fruits which give it the common name of the Strawberry Tree.

If you're in need of one of the best trees for privacy, you can plant it to screen an ugly view or better still, make it a feature tree as it has so much to create seasonal interest. Plant in well-drained soil.

9. Colorado Blue Spruce

• Best for: soft, subtle colours
• Height: Varies according to type
• Spread: Varies according to type

Picea pungens has beautiful soft blue silvery foliage, spiky leaves and light brown winter buds. It's commonly used as a Christmas tree in the UK, but if you're planting one as a permanent feature make sure you check that the variety you pick is the right size.

In large gardens, try ‘Fat Albert’ (available from B&Q) which has a symmetrical pyramid shape, growing as big as 3m. ‘Koster’ is a good medium sized tree. For a tiny space, choose a dwarf variety such as ‘Montgomery,’ which tops just 60-90cm tall. Grow in full sun for the best results.

10. Portugese Laurel

• Best for: areas of shade
• Height: 10m
• Spread: 10m

As a general rule, flowering trees need at least a few hours of sun a day to thrive, but the Portugese Laurel (prunus lusitanica) is one of the best plants for shade and will happily grow in a shady corner. It has neat, glossy evergreen leaves and delicate small, creamy white flowers from April to May.

As it only requires a light trim once a year to keep it in shape, it's a brilliant choice for busy homeowners because it needs such minimal care.

You can buy Portugese Laurel from Crocus in a 2 litre pot ready to plant in your garden.

11. Irish Yew (Taxus baccata fastigiata)

• Best for: a slimmer, space-saving tree
• Height: 10m
• Spread: 4m

Perfect if you want to create a focal point, or visual ‘exclamation mark’ in a shady border, this dense, upright tree has an elegant column shape and dark green needle-like leaves. It is reasonably compact, making it suitable for small- to medium-sized gardens.

The female plants have red berries in the autumn. All parts of the tree are toxic, so avoid this one if you have young children or pets. The golden version, Taxus baccata fastigiata ‘Aurea’, would brighten up a gloomy garden corner.

Taxus baccata 'Fastigiata Robusta' (available from Thompson & Morgan) is slow growing and requires little maintenance once established.

12. Variegated holly (ilex aquifolium)

• Best for: brightening up shady spots
• Height: 20m
• Spread: 6m

A slow-growing evergreen holly with marbled leaves which brings lots of interest to a shaded site. To ensure plenty of decorative winter berries, plant one male tree and one female (although some plant companies sell pairs in the same pot).

Holly ‘Golden King’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) has spineless green leaves with a gold rim, and ilex aquifolium ‘Argentea Marginata’ (available from Gardening Express) has spiny foliage with silvery cream edges, but there are lots of different ones to choose from.

Hollies do well in partial shade, preferably with moist, well-drained soil. Deeper shade is fine, but it may cause the leaf colouration to be less defined.

13. Magnolia Grandiflora (Bull Bay magnolia)

• Best for: fragrant flowers
• Height: 18m
• Spread: 15m

One of the best flowering trees, this evergreen tree has the wow factor, coming up time and again on garden designers’ favourites lists. It’s the killer combination of the dense dark green leaves and glorious large creamy cup-shaped fragrant flowers in late summer to early autumn which makes it such a beauty.

Despite its exotic looks, it is not difficult to grow, but it does require a large garden, well-drained soil and a sunny spot, or at least some dappled shade. Large specimen trees are slow growing but can reach 18m tall. However, if space is an issue, smaller standard versions on long skinny trunks are available from specialist nurseries.

14. Italian Cypress (Cupressus sempervirens)

• Best for: chic, architectural style
• Height: 10m
• Spread: 1.5m

These pencil slim trees are ideal for stylish Mediterranean gardens. Use their striking architectural shape to frame either side of a gate, or to draw attention to a pretty view. Italian cypress trees (available from You Garden) can be grown in the ground or in pots, but they will need full sun and a warm climate to thrive.

Once they are established (after about two years), these evergreen trees will be drought tolerant. To maintain the appealing slender shape, trim lightly twice a year and remove the cones as these can push the branches apart and spoil the silhouette.

15. Pinus pinea

• Best for: a feature tree
• Height: 20m
• Spread: 12m

The sculptural shape of this tree takes some beating. It has a distinctive spherical crown with a flattened top, a bit like a parasol. Also known as an umbrella pine, or stone pine, the needles on the mature ones are greyish green, and the trunk has grooved bark in red brown.

It tolerates dry conditions, and prefers a sunny site, but generally these trees are not too fussy. The shape can be maintained with some light pruning in the winter, with no expensive tree surgery needed.

One for a medium to large garden, it grows about 1m per year and can be one way of adding a natural garden sunshade idea in summer.

16. Pinus Contorta ‘Chief Joseph’ 

• Best for: warm winter colour
• Height: 6m
• Spread: 1.2-1.8m

Proof, if it was needed, that evergreen trees aren't just a boring one tone green. This dwarf evergreen conifer’s needles turn a glowing gold in the autumn and winter months when temperatures drop.

It’s petite and upright enough to grow in a small courtyard garden, but it will also make a splash in a larger space because of the rich colour.

It needs full sun and acid or neutral well-drained soil, but it’s so straightforward to care for, it doesn't even need pruning.

17. Chusan Palm (Trachycarpus fortunei)

• Best for: exotic appeal
• Height: 2m
• Spread: 2.5m

No list of the best evergreen trees is complete without at least one palm. This tropical plant is prized for its large, glossy green fan-shaped leaves which sprout from a tufty, fibrous trunk on long, flexible stems. It has sprays of creamy yellow flowers in early summer.

Sheltered conditions are needed, well away from cold winds and hard frosts. Chusan palms (available from Gardening Express) can be grown as part of your garden planter ideas, which makes them a flexible choice for a small patio or even as part of your roof terrace ideas. It prefers full sun or lightly dappled shade.

FAQs

What is the difference between evergreen and deciduous? 

The term ‘evergreen’ is used for trees which retain their foliage and stay green all year round. Deciduous trees are the ones which shed their leaves in fall and winter.

Conifers are often described as evergreen, but some varieties are deciduous, so check carefully before purchasing to ensure that your tree will remain green in the colder seasons.

What evergreen trees are best for small gardens? 

For small gardens, opt for a hard-working evergreen tree which has more to offer than just year-round green foliage. This could be flowers, attractive fruits, cones or perhaps a striking textured trunk. Try Osmanthus x burkwoodii, which is recommended by top tree expert Michael Buck of Form Plants. It has clusters of white fragrant flowers which add a heady scent to summer evenings and it will tolerate a shady growing site.

For really small front garden ideas consider a dwarf conifer in a container. It will add shape and texture in every season of the year.

Is it easy to maintain an evergreen tree? 

It is easy to maintain the best evergreen trees, provided you choose the right tree for the right place. This can be done by checking the ultimate height and spread of the plant before you buy.

Some evergreens, notably conifers, can quickly outgrow their allotted space, casting too much shade or impinging on neighbouring gardens. Other factors to consider are the root spread, and the pruning requirements of different tree varieties. According to the RHS, "to help new trees settle in, give them plenty of water and fertiliser for the first few years, as well as a sturdy stake for support."

As well as evergreen trees, for low-level cover, make sure you include some of the best evergreen shrubs as well. And, for added interest in winter, when much of your garden may have died back, pop in a few of the best winter-flowering shrubs to ensure colour and scent all year round.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

When you think about a windowless bathroom, cramped, dark and dingy might spring to mind, but with the right design and considerations, this doesn't have to be the case.

As long as you've nailed the five key components of this space – including ventilation and lighting, which we explain later – you'll be well on your way to creating a beautiful bathroom.

To find out how to bring your windowless bathroom to life – whether it's an understairs toilet or a compact en suite – we've rounded up the best expert tips below.

1. Ventilation

Extractor fans are a must-have in every bathroom, but they're particularly important in windowless spaces, as the steam has nowhere to go. Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco, suggests leaving it running for at least 20 minutes after your shower, but potentially longer if the room is still damp.

"I'd recommend a decent extractor fan with a humidity sensor for a windowless bathroom," he says. "The sensor helps because you're not relying on someone remembering to switch it on. It'll respond when moisture levels rise and keep running until they've dropped. You also need to make sure the fan is powerful enough for the size of the room."

While some people turn their extractor fan off due to the noise, energy costs or potential cold, Michael says you could be "creating a much bigger problem with condensation and mould".

To ensure your extractor fan works properly, you'll need to see if there is a sufficient gap underneath the bathroom door so replacement air can get in.

Finally, Michael advises checking that your ducting vents outside rather than into your loft – otherwise, you're just transferring damp air from one part of your home to another.

2. Lighting

A lack of natural light is one of the biggest problems in a windowless bathroom, but Massimo Buster Minale, founder and creative director of Buster + Punch, offers a solution.

"Rather than relying on a single overhead fitting, layer different light sources to balance practical light with atmosphere. Start by using ambient lighting to provide an even spread of light throughout the bathroom, using flush IP44 wet rated ceiling lights or spotlights to replace the lack of natural daylight.

"Then, introduce task lighting around the mirror, with wall lights positioned above or either side to provide light for everyday use without harsh shadows or a portable lamp for ease."

You may also want to add a dimmer switch to your bathroom lighting design, which will allow you to adjust the ambience to the time of day, in line with your circadian rhythm.

3. Decoration

Contrary to popular belief, painting everything white isn't going to make your windowless bathroom feel bigger and brighter, according to interior designer Katie Malik. In fact, it can actually make it look cold and clinical when there isn't any natural light.

"Instead, I’d recommend softer, warmer shades such as creamy whites, warm off-whites, pale greige or subtle blush tones," she recommends. "These colours create a much more welcoming atmosphere and work beautifully with warm lighting."

"If you prefer a little more colour, soft sage green, muted powder blue or pale earthy tones can also work really well. The trick is to choose colours with gentle undertones rather than anything too dark or overpowering."

To help your smaller space look bigger, Katie recommends using moisture-resistant satin or soft-sheen paint finishes to help reflect the light, and choosing large-format tiles to reduce the number of visible grout lines, which can sometimes look too busy. You could also use the same tiles across the floors and walls to "help blur the boundaries of the room".

"An oversized mirror is also one of the simplest ways to make a small bathroom feel more spacious. Position it where it can reflect your lighting, and it will help distribute light around the room."

If you're in need of some inspiration, our content director Laura Crombie completely transformed her dated downstairs bathroom using carefully placed colour, patterned flooring and a light-reflecting mirror (see below).

4. The right finishes

Your windowless space might be small, but this doesn't mean you can ignore the basic rules of bathroom design. When it comes to choosing floor and shower wall surfaces, Michael Zohouri recommends porcelain tiles, which don't absorb much water and are easy to wipe down, as well as a bathroom-specific paint on the ceiling to avoid mould spots.

"One thing I'd spend a bit more on is the waterproofing behind the shower tiles. People sometimes think that because they've tiled a wall, it's waterproof. It isn't. Water can still get through grout and joints, so you need a proper tanking system underneath in areas that get regularly soaked," he adds.

"I'd avoid standard MDF around the sink or bath. Once water gets into the edges, it swells and starts falling apart. If you want a vanity unit, look for one specifically designed for bathrooms, and make sure any exposed edges are properly sealed."

5. Odour prevention

If you have a windowless bathroom with poor ventilation (see point one), you may notice that smells linger longer than usual, as there is nowhere for the odour to go.

Other than investing in the best extractor fan and ensuring it vents outside, Michael Zohouri recommends looking into the following:

"I'd start looking at anything that stays wet. Bath mats, towels, shower curtains, even the silicone around the bath. People leave damp towels hanging in a bathroom with no window, and they're surprised when the room starts smelling. I'd move them somewhere with better airflow so they can dry properly."

"After a shower, pull the shower curtain across so it can dry properly, and use a squeegee on the shower walls. It takes about 30 seconds and means there's less water sitting around."

So, before you brush off your windowless bathroom as a lost cause, remember that there are plenty of ways to inject some life into it – from a clever layered lighting scheme to choosing the best type of finish.

For more advice and inspiration, have a browse through these downstairs toilet ideas and these smart bathroom storage ideas that are perfect for compact spaces.

The best winter-flowering shrubs can bring colour, structure and scent to the garden, even after the big, bold blooms of the summer have well and truly faded and spring bulbs have yet to emerge.

Adding new shrubs is also a great way to boost your overall garden design, bringing structure and interest to your garden borders throughout the year too.

However, not all shrubs are suitable, so when choosing plants, you need to think about the size of the plot, the soil type and the light conditions. With these various criteria in mind, here's what we recommend as the best winter-flowering shrubs for your plot.

1. Winter honeysuckle (lonicera)

Scent is a big feature of the shrubby honeysuckles, the bushy deciduous types whose winter fragrance is sadly undervalued. In winter, pairs of small creamy flowers line the branches. But later in the year, they're fairly dull. However, mature specimens make fine climbing plant supports for small-flowered summer clematis, climbing dicentras or canary creeper.

Loniceras are happy in any reasonable garden soil that is not parched or waterlogged. Climbing types tend to be vigorous, growing up to 2m in height. They need plenty of space, plus stout support for their twining branches. The roots of climbing types can be in the shade, but the plants usually flower best with the top growth in the sun or, at least, without overhead shade. Shrubby types prefer full sun. They also benefit from generous soil preparation and regular feeding

Lonicera x purpusii ‘Winter Beauty’ (available from Dobies) is one of the best winter-flowering shrubs, featuring intensely fragrant creamy flowers that open from early December and then keep coming until April. Unlike other varieties, it flowers well even on young plants. If you're short on space, they can be a good option if you're looking for the best climbing plants for walls. Try training them against cool north or east-facing walls.

Deciduous shrubby fragrant types like 'Winter Beauty' are best pruned immediately after flowering. Cut back the shoots that have flowered to within 5-10cm of the older wood.

2. Viburnum

During the winter months, this hardy shrub bursts into life producing masses of richly perfumed blooms on bare, woody stems. The bold pink flowers fade gradually to white before giving way to small, rounded, purple berries in summer. By autumn, the green foliage transforms to a cloak of orange and yellow.

The shrub itself is very hardy and will reach a good 3m high and wide. It's important to know your soil type as viburnums like a deep, rich and moist soil that drains well. Unfussy as to alkaline or acidic, they also do well in clay soil. It makes sense to site fragrant plants like viburnum in areas that are sunny but sheltered from wind, where the scent can linger and build. Even better if they're beside a door or used to line a cottage garden pathway.

A lovely type of viburnum is V. farreri ‘Candidissimum' – it has white rather than pale pink flowers and leaves are a festive, pale green in spring. Heavily scented flowers appear for up to eight weeks in winter. Fruits are pale yellow. Whilst V. x bodnantense ‘Deben’ has pink buds on its branches, they open to reveal white flowers with just a hint of pink.

3. Hamamelis

These large winter-flowering shrubs or small trees with flowers in red, orange and yellow are probably better known to many by their common name witch hazel.

Their spider-like flowers can be easily seen when they appear in mid-winter as this is a deciduous plant and the flowers appear whilst the stems are bare. The flowers themselves produce delicate fragrance which seems best on sunny days.

Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Pallida’ (available from Crocus) has bright yellow and highly fragrant flowers, whereas Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Diane’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) has scented red flowers. As the red flowers are quite dark, it can be useful to plant cultivars such as ‘Diane’ in front of an evergreen shrub so that the red flowers show up against the green backdrop.

Hamamelis varieties can grow up to 4m in height, which will be too tall for most smaller gardens. So opt for Hamamelis vernalis ‘Quasimodo’ which is one of the best trees for small gardens. It's a dense, compact, slow-growing shrub that is ablaze with saffron-yellow spidery flowers from January to March. Plant in extremely well-drained, fertile soil, in sun or dappled shade. Its eventual height is 1m.

Shop for winter flowering shrubs

4. Acacia (wattle)

Wreathed with tiny pompoms of fuzzy, fragrant yellow blossom, Acacia dealbata, the florist’s mimosa or silver wattle, will light up a garden in February or March. These trees with evergreen, fernlike foliage are usually in bloom for Valentine’s Day.

Their nectar is also a welcome energy source for bees coming out of hibernation. Although silver wattle is not reliably hardy in all parts of the UK, it will withstand temperatures down to around -7°C and is more frost-proof on a light soil than on a heavy one.

Gardening expert, Anne Swithinbank, says: "The secret weapon of this Australian native is speed of growth. Capable of putting on several feet a year, a plant will grow rapidly into a small tree of around 9m, although in the wild it will easily double that."

In colder regions, grow your silver wattle in a pot to put under cover for winter. Potted on to a slightly larger container after flowering every year, they’ll stay healthy. Once a maximum pot size is reached, rely on top dressing or root pruning to enrich the compost and allow new roots to grow.

Anne says: "I’d use a 50:50 mix of John Innes No2 and a soilless multipurpose potting compost. Water well and, once established, add a balanced liquid feed fortnightly until the end of July before letting the plant toughen up for winter."

Make sure plants don’t go dry in autumn when flower buds are setting. And should pruning shrubs be necessary, do it after the plant is through flowering.

Compost and feed for your shrubs

5. Oregan Grape (Mahonia)

Prized for their ability to add much-needed colour and interest, many winter flowers come with an added bonus of knockout fragrance. The Oregan Grape (mahonia) is no exception and will be a real treat for the nose as well as the eyes.

Theirs is a scent which will stop you in your tracks as you walk past it. And with glossy evergreen leaves crowned in yellow flowers they create great visual interest in the winter garden. As well as flowering when very little else is in bloom, in autumn and winter you'll see its leaves take on reddish hues. And it will produce berries that will attract wildlife, making it a great contender for eco-friendly gardens.

The mahonia is a shade-loving plant and is hardy to frost, and despite being one of the most useful plants for shade, mahonias will also grow in sun – the crucial thing is to ensure the ground is moist. Don’t plant in a windy site, otherwise the leaves may bruise.

Their spiky foliage can scratch, so don’t position your mahonia beside a path, and be careful when weeding close by. Plants don’t require much attention: an occasional mulch will suffice. They can suffer rust and powdery mildew, but this is rare.

If you’ve got a small garden, you’ll need to prune your mahonia. They are fairly slow growers, but after a few years will begin to expand. Varieties such as Mahonia 'Winter Sun' (available from Crocus) should be pruned in spring after flowering, cutting back overlong or leggy stems to a side shoot.

6. Daphne

Daphnes are one of the best scented shrubs available, and they're easy to grow. 'Evergreen or deciduous, daphnes are generally neat and well-behaved,' says gardening expert, Graham Rice. "Some will reach 2m, while many will grow to less than half that and thrive in containers. Alternatively, you can use the smaller sun-loving varieties as evergreen anchors in raised beds, among alpine plants and dwarf bulbs." Daphne bholua 'Jacqueline Postill', available from Gardening Express, is fast growing and extremely hardy.

You can plant daphnes at any time in spring or autumn. Check individual soil and site preferences, but most are best in an elusive combination of a well-drained soil that retains moisture. No daphne enjoys waterlogging.

Many appreciate full sun – in a raised garden bed, for example. Though some varieties will thrive in dappled shade. They are suitable for growing in planters as long as you use a deep pot, filled with a soil-based compost such as John Innes No3.

Most daphnes never need pruning; some even resent it and may die back from the pruning cut.

7. Sarcococca 

Sarcococca, or sweet box, is a compact evergreen shrub known for its tiny vanilla-scented flowers, which will perfume the whole garden in the midst of winter. It tolerates light shade. All species are hardy apart from S. saligna, which needs protection in a cold garden.

Sarcococcas are very easy to please and happy in all soil types – the structure can be loam, clay, chalky or sandy and the pH can be alkali, acidic or neutral. No regular pruning is needed apart from shortening frosted and dying shoots to live buds in late spring. After pruning comes mulching the base with some well rotted compost – you could even try making your own compost.

We love the variety ‘Purple Stem’ (available from Thompson & Morgan) which has the advantage of purple-flushed stems, leaf stalks, which complement the reddish-white flowers. What’s more, it’s totally happy in shade.

8. Camellia 

The sumptuous, colourful blooms of camellia appear when there is precious little else in flower, makes them one of the best winter-flowering shrubs. These evergreen shrubs, with bright glossy green foliage, are bold and elegant and will produce an abundance of blooms.

But how to grow camellias? Well they need acid soil, with a pH of between 5.5 and 6. If your soil is borderline, add plenty of leaf mould to the planting hole, and a mulch of composted bark or pine needles. Or grow in pots using a soil-based ericaceous compost mix. Use rainwater collected in a water butt for watering. Slow-growing, they do not need repotting often, and you won’t have to prune your camellia to promote flowering.

They prefer shade, but will suit most locations apart from east-facing, as early morning sun can harm the flowers. And they need acid soil to grow happily in the ground, although most will perform just as well in pots.

Being upright shrubs they can be grown in a wide range of situations – against walls, as a hedging plant, freestanding on their own or in groups, or with other shade-loving, woodland plants.

There are thousands of different colours and types of camellia to choose from. The earliest flowering varieties are mostly in the Sasanqua group, such as camellia sasanqua 'Pink' (from Thompson & Morgan) with blooms appearing from October onwards.

9. Winter jasmine

Jasmine is essentially known for its perfume, but this fascinating group of plants has so much more to offer your winter garden. The familiar white summer variety will bloom from May to October. But opting for the equally popular winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum, available from Crocus) you can have flowers from November to March.

It grows to around 3m in height and spread. Its mid-yellow flowers are not overtly scented. It looks wonderful trained over a porch or allowed to ramble over a wall. Plant it in sun or semi-shade. As its flowering peak is towards the end of winter, in China it is called Yingchun, which means 'the flower that welcomes spring'.

FAQs

Where is it best to grow winter-flowering shrubs?

Think about the size of the space (or spaces) you're wanting to place a winter shrub and look at the eventual height and spread. Whilst some plants may fit the area perfectly when first planted, you might find that it quickly engulfs its surroundings once in the soil.

This could be avoided by growing your winter-flowering shrub in a container. Some winter-flowering shrubs can be grown against a wall, reducing the amount of room they need. Consider growing something like a white forsythia against the sunny side of the house. Its bare branches are adorned with almond scented flowers in February and March.

You can also further maximise space by growing a summer-flowering climber like Clematis ‘Comtesse de Bouchaud’ through a winter shrub. 'Lonicera x purpusii ‘Winter Beauty’, for example, produces perfumed white blooms from December to March, but does very little for the rest of the year, so why not use it as a scaffold for clematis?

If you want more ways to add colour and vibrancy to your garden over the cooler months, trees with winter berries are another great addition to your planting scheme. Some are suitable for small gardens too, and all will provide a valuable source of food for birds and wildlife when they need it most.

The original version of this article previously appeared on Gardeningetc, a sister website to Homebuilding & Renovating.

Convenient, flexible and space-saving, extension leads can be a game-changer if you find yourself running out of plug sockets on a daily basis.

But as practical as they are, extension leads are involved in many house fires across the UK, with 7,000 house fires caused by overloaded sockets and faulty electrical appliances each year, according to More Tips.

Electrical safety should be taken seriously in your home, which is why we've asked two experts about the extension lead mistakes to avoid.

1. Using an extension lead that's in bad condition

It might be tempting to reach for the same extension lead you've had in the cupboard for years, but it could increase the risk of electric shocks, electrical fires and damage to your devices if it's in poor condition.

"Check extension leads for signs of damage, including frayed and damaged cables, cracked casings, scorch marks or discolouration," says Paul Collins, Technical Integrity and Standards Director at NICEIC.

"If you notice a burning smell, unusual heat, buzzing or sparking, stop using the lead and disconnect it if it’s safe to do so. Never continue using damaged electrical equipment."

2. Overloading the extension lead

Overloading your extension lead can cause electrical fires, damage to appliances and electric shocks. But how much is too much? Paul Collins says there isn't a set number of appliances that's safe for every extension lead.

“It depends on the lead’s maximum rating and how much electricity each connected appliance uses. Using several high-powered appliances on one extension lead can exceed its rating and cause it to overheat," he explains.

"Every extension lead has a maximum load it can safely carry – typically 13 amps, or around 3,000 watts. Plugging in multiple high-powered appliances can exceed this limit, causing the lead to overheat and potentially start a fire," adds Giuseppe Capanna, Product Safety Engineer at Electrical Safety First.

If you're unsure whether your appliances can be used together, always check their ratings and the manufacturer's guidance.

3. You 'daisy-chain' extension leads

Plugging one extension lead into another one (also known as 'daisy-chaining' might seem like a smart idea if you're short on plugs and cable length, but Paul Collins warns that it should always be avoided as it will increase the chances of overheating and fire.

“If you regularly need multiple extension leads to power equipment in the same area, consider contacting an NICEIC-registered electrician to install additional socket-outlets," adds Paul. "They can assess your existing electrical installation and advise on a safe, suitable solution."

4. You're plugging in unsuitable appliances

While extension leads can come in handy for things like phone chargers and table lamps, Guiseppe Capanna warns against plugging in appliances such as kettles, microwaves, dishwashers, washing machines and portable heaters. These should be plugged directly into a suitable wall socket instead.

"[These appliances] draw a large amount of power and may overload your extension lead," he explains.

If in doubt, it's always best to check with the appliance and extension lead manufacturer.

5. Buying them from an untrusted retailer

"Always buy extension leads from reputable retailers," advises Giuseppe Capanna.

Products from untrusted retailers may not meet the electrical safety requirements, which could again, increase the likelihood of overheating, electric shocks and electrical fires.

To find out whether an extension lead is safe to buy, keep an eye out for the following:

• Check if it has a UKCA or CE marking
• Check if the voltage or power rating is listed
• Check if a named manufacturer and address is provided
• Check for a 13A rating (this is standard)
• Check if it's fitted with a thermal cut-out
• Check they are fitted with a a standard UK 3-pin plug and a fuse

If you want to know about any recalls in the future, make sure you register your product.

FAQs

Do I have to buy a surge-protected extension lead?

No, you don't necessarily have to buy a surge-protected extension lead. While they can help protect your devices against voltage spikes, Giuseppe Capanna says they won't prevent overloading.

Can I plug in an extension lead overnight?

“An extension lead isn’t automatically unsafe simply because it’s plugged in overnight," explains Paul Collins. "However, it’s important to think about what is connected to it, whether those appliances need to remain powered and whether the equipment is in good condition.”

Extension leads are a staple in many households, but using them incorrectly can have serious consequences for both your home and appliances.

Want to know whether your living room electrics are up to the job? Our experts reveal all in this guide. Or, you may want to learn about the different types of plug sockets.

If you've noticed damp, mould and lingering condensation in your bathroom, it could be a sign that it's time to replace your extractor fan – or you may find these problems worsening over time.

The best extractor fan helps keep your bathroom free from damp and nasty odours, which is why ensuring it's in tip-top condition and doing its job properly is key.

Below, our ventilation experts reveal the four warning signs that your extractor fan is in need of an upgrade, so you can get your bathroom feeling fresh and dry once again.

1. Lingering steam and condensation

Does your bathroom stay steamy long after you've finished your shower? Is your mirror completely foggy? Does condensation run down the walls?

If the answer is yes up to half an hour later, Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco, says these could be signs that your bathroom extractor fan is not working as it should be.

The fan is designed to remove excess moisture from the air, so the fact that it's building up on your surfaces shows that something isn't right. While this doesn't automatically mean you need a new one, you should initially check whether it's dirty, incorrectly installed or the wrong size for your room.

Bathroom extractor fans we recommend

2. It's making unusual noises

Michael Zohouri says that unusual noises are another key sign that your bathroom extractor fan might be broken.

If you've noticed any new rattling or buzzing noises that weren't there before, he warns that the motor or bearings might be on their way out. It may also take longer to start up or stop working intermittently.

3. There are black spots on your sealant or walls

When water vapour condenses on cooler surfaces (such as the walls, ceilings and windowsills), these damp conditions can cause mould spots to form on places like your bathroom sealant. This is another strong indication that your extractor fan isn't working efficiently – or at all.

"An underperforming extractor fan can allow moisture to build up in the bathroom," says Rob Stevens, Ventilation and HVAC Expert at Aspect. "Black spots that keep returning on sealant or nearby surfaces can be a sign that moisture is not being cleared effectively and mould is forming."

4. Steam escapes when you open the bathroom door

"If you notice a cloud of steam escaping as soon as you open the bathroom door, it’s a sign that moist air is accumulating rather than being drawn outside," explains Rob Stevens.

Not only does this affect your bathroom (see the previous point), but it can also settle on colder surfaces in the rest of your home, such as bedroom walls, causing damp patches or dark spots of mould to appear.

Do I need to replace my bathroom extractor fan?

If you experience any of the signs above, then yes, there is a good chance that you'll need to replace your extractor fan. However, before you do, Michael Zohouri says you can carry out the following checks first:

1. Clean your extractor fan: "You'd be surprised how much dust builds up behind the grilles. Isolate the power before removing any covers, and only clean the parts the manufacturer says are safe to access."

2. Try the toilet paper check: "Hold [a sheet of toilet paper] against the extractor grille while it's running," he says. "If there's barely any pull, that suggests you're not getting much airflow. It's not a proper airflow test, but it's a useful first check."

If everything looks good but your extractor fan still isn't working, it could be worth calling in a professional to take a look.

Extractor fans play a vital role in keeping your bathroom fresh and damp-free, so it's important to get yours checked or replaced as soon as you notice any of these signs.

Found this helpful? You may also want to find out whether you can use a dehumidifier in the bathroom or how to identify damp in the bathroom. Or, read our guide to the signs and causes of mould in the bathroom, and the best ways to prevent it.