Restoring Timber Floors

Rolling back tatty old carpet or torn lino to reveal an original wooden floor is one of those happy moments that makes renovating so appealing. An original timber floor is a particularly highly regarded feature, and if you are able to bring the existing floorboards back to life, it will save a considerable amount of money compared to buying a new or reclaimed solid wooden floor. However, it is rare to find an existing wooden floor in pristine condition, and for this reason some restoration work is usually required.

Filling Holes in Floorboards: After sweeping the floor, check all over for any nail or screw heads that protrude. Nail heads should be punched below the surface of the floor, whilst screw heads should be countersunk. Use a flexible filler in the holes and, once dry, sand so that it is flush with the rest of the floor. If you plan on painting your wooden floor, the filler colour is not so important. However, if you plan on varnishing or waxing then choose a filler slightly lighter in colour to that of the floor.

Gaps Between Boards: There are several ways to deal with this. If the gaps are small, those Moving On will be pleased to hear that this is easily rectified. Simply fill the gaps using a flexible acrylic flooring filler, which can be applied using a sealant gun. If you plan on sanding and varnishing the floor, use a ready-mixed tub filler that can be stained to match the colour of the boards.

Bigger gaps will need to be filled with thin lengths of square-edge moulding. Moulding strips should be planed into a slim wedge shape, before woodworking adhesive is applied. The wedge should then be tapped into the gap, thin edge first. Once in place and when the adhesive has had time to set, wedges should be planed down to floor level and stained to match the boards — an easy job for Fixer-Uppers and those Moving On.

Those looking to create a Forever Home and seeking a really high-quality finish from their floor should consider lifting and relaying the floor in order to deal with gaps.

Lifting and Re-laying Floorboards: Even if only part of a board needs replacing, it is usually easier to lift the whole board to carry this task out. To lift a board, start by sawing or chiselling along both sides of the board. If using a hand saw, use a low angle to avoid sawing through joists, cables or pipes, and if you decide to use a jigsaw, adapt it to limit the depth of the cut. Punch any nail heads right through the board. Using a parallel-sided punch just smaller than the nail head will limit damage. The board can be lifted by prising one end up, then cleaned. Remove any old tongues still stuck in the groove. By removing the lengthways section of timber running below the groove you are left with a tongue that can be re-laid into the existing boards. You may be able to replace damaged boards with stock-width boards, otherwise you will have to have them made to order.

Sanding: Once happy with the state of your floor you can sand it. Sanders are available to hire and this is the perfect option for those Moving On or Fixer-Uppers. However, some people choose to call in specialists who will repair, sand and finish the floor. If hiring a machine, use a drum floor sander and stick to fine-grade sandpaper to avoid eradicating all the character from the boards.

The Problems You Might Face

1. Dry and Wet Rot: Dry rot is a fungus which spreads. It is usually signified by a white fluffy growth and if you see this then you should call in an expert.

Wet rot is less threatening and only occurs where wood has been exposed to moisture. Providing the source of the moisture has now been dealt with, wet rot can be cut out until you reach good solid wood. Although this may mean entire floorboards have to be replaced, it really is necessary.

2. Woodworm: The most important thing here is to ascertain whether it is still active. Those Moving On should treat the problem regardless of whether it has been confirmed as active. However, those creating a Forever Home could try another method. Ringing each exit hole using indelible ink, makes it possible to see if any new flight holes have appeared the following May or June. Affected floorboards or joists will need to be cut back and replaced. The underside of the new boards and any nearby joists should also be treated.

3. Gaps, Loose Boards and Stains: Given that the floorboards you are working on are likely to have been put through their paces, it is reasonable to expect that they will have sustained a degree of wear and tear. There is plenty that can be done to get them looking shipshape once more, but before you begin, do remember that part of the charm of old floorboards is their history and, as such, a few dents and scrapes can be a good thing.

Finishes for Timber Floors

Nearly all timber floors need to be sealed. Not only will this highlight the natural beauty of the wood, but it will also prevent dirt and spores from becoming ingrained over time. Floors must be totally dust-free, clean and dry before applying any finish. A cloth and white spirit are perfect for the job of getting them really clean.

1. Wax can be used on timber floors without sealing them beforehand. If you choose to do this, use a solvent-based wax, working it well into the grain before buffing it with an electric polisher. Mixing the wax with a little white spirit for the first coat makes it easier to rub it into the grain and also makes it go further. Depending on which wax you use, it is advisable to regularly re-wax and buff your floor. Waxes are available in several colours and finishes and those looking for an ‘antique’ look often opt for wax. If applying wax to a floor coated with a water-based sealant, only water-based waxes should be used.

2. Oils were the traditional way to protect timber floors. Although they do improve the durability of the floor, compared to other finishes they leave the timber fairly soft and so are not recommended for areas of high traffic. They are also notorious for trapping dust and, therefore, oiled timber floors need regularly cleaning. They will give your floor a slightly darker colour.

3. Varnishes are often considered the best way to seal timber floors due to their durability in areas of high traffic. Solventbased varnishes take a long time to dry, whereas water-based alternatives can be dry in three to four hours. All varnishes slightly alter the colour of the floor, but they are available in various finishes such as matt, satin and gloss. You will also have the choice of ‘light-use’ varnishes to those that are rock hard for areas of very heavy traffic.

4. Stains can be used on most types of timber. Water-based stains result in a more natural finish. Do test the stains on an off-cut of timber first as it will be too late once it is on your floor. Do not assume that a stain will also seal your floor — not all do.

Further reading:

• A Step-by-step Guide to Restoring Wood Floors
• A Buyer's Guide to Wooden Flooring
• A Guide to Internal Finishes