Pillar Taps Explained

ABOVE: Caple’s Trinity tap in Duraform – a mixture of quartz and acrylic resin – costs from £133 (0117 938 1900, caple.co.uk).

NB: The ta in the diagram below is a standard pillar tap, with ceramic disc technology. It would be bought as part of a pair and can be easily installed by a competent DIYer. Most taps come supplied with a central waste: traditionally plugged with a stopper, a popup waste is better in modern bathrooms. Certain models of tap will not be suited to gravity-fed plumbing systems or low water pressure. Expect to pay at least £100 for good-quality, great-looking taps — often a lot more.

1. Lever Handle: This type of handle turns the spindle, activating the CERAMIC DISC VALVE. A full flow can be achieved by just a quarter turn. Lever handles are easy to use with wet, soapy hands.
2. Index Ring: This plastic ring indicates the temperature, hot in this case, and clips the LEVER HANDLE to the BODY.
3. Spindle: The LEVER HANDLE connects to this rod. When turned, it activates the CERAMIC DISC VALVE.
4. O Ring: Stops water seeping out of the head of the BODY. If the tap is leaking, this is likely to be the culprit.
5. Ceramic Disc Valve (Hot or Cold): Unlike traditional washers, ceramic discs, of which there are two, are designed to last a lifetime (although, in hard water areas they won’t). When the LEVER HANDLE is turned, the spindle activates the top disc, which rotates, opening triangular apertures through which the water flows (underneath) to the SPOUT. The bottom disc doesn’t move. The valve’s side hole here is closed, meaning the tap is off.
6. Body: An aesthetic component that also houses the functional CERAMIC DISC VALVE, the cartridge of which rests on a shelf inside. Affixes to the mounting surface via the SHANK. Tap bodies are usually made of brass; very few are of cheaper plastic these days. They may, however, be finished in a variety of materials, such as chrome, stainless steel, brass and nickel.

7. Spout: Water passes through the CERAMIC DISC VALVE to finally exit through the spout into the sink. It is important that the BODY is positioned so that the spout directs water to the centre of the bowl.
8. Shank: The part of the BODY which is inserted through the mounting surface, to secure the tap in place. It is fixed in position with a locknut. A tap connector (NOT SHOWN), which is basically a thin tube, connects the tap to the house’s water supply. On some models, the shank might have to slot through a separate tap base before the mounting surface.
9. Aerator: Affixed to the SPOUT, it encourages a soft, even flow of water. Many ‘eco’, water-saving models incorporate an aerator that makes a lower flow of water feel like a more powerful flow, enhancing the user experience.
10. O Ring: A sealing ring to prevent leakage. This particular O ring is positioned between the SHANK and the mounting surface. The other (number 4) protects the seal between the LEVER HANDLE and the BODY.
11. Silicone Washer: May also be of rubber. Positioned the other side of the mounting surface, to protect it against damage from the brass locknut which fixes the BODY in place.
12. Metal Washer: A brass locknut (NOT SHOWN) will tighten against this washer, to secure the BODY in position.

Further reading:

• A Guide to Bathrooms
• A Guide to Kitchens
• Plumbing Solutions