Internal Walls: Stud or Solid?

The majority of self-builders never even think about how their internal walls should be built. If they have hired an architect or a designer to draw up plans, they will happily go along with what is suggested to them; and if they employ a system build approach, such as timber frame or SIPs (structural insulated panels), then they will adopt whatever the package company offers. There may be good sense in all this, but it’s still worth considering the options.

Load Bearing or Not?

Internal walls – usually defined as roomdividing walls, as opposed to the insides of the external walls – come in two distinct flavours: load bearing and non-load bearing. You often can’t tell the difference visually, but structurally they are very different. A load-bearing wall is one that acts as a support for a roof, a floor, a beam or another wall above it. It needs to be stronger than a non-load-bearing wall and, crucially, it needs extra support under it, usually an additional foundation trench.

In a new build, the structural issues will all be dealt with at the design stage and you shouldn’t have to pay too much attention to whether a wall is load bearing or not, but it can have a major effect on renovations — especially when you want to take down an existing wall. In these cases, it is vital to know whether or not the internal wall is load bearing because, if it is, you will need to provide an alternative means of support. If in any doubt at all, then do get the building professionally surveyed so that you know what you are dealing with.

Stud or Solid?

Internal walls can be built up in a number of ways. In block-built homes, the most common method is to use blockwork for the load-bearing walls, and timber studwork elsewhere. Typically, this might translate as blockwork walls downstairs and timber studwork upstairs, especially if the roof is built using trusses, which transfer all the weight to the side walls. That’s not to say that studwork can’t be used for load-bearing walls — in timber framed homes, timber stud walls are used everywhere. Yet, using blockwork for load bearing is almost always straightforward whereas studwork requires more thought and possibly the doubling-up of uprights. The downside of using block - work for internal walls is that it is so much heavier that it usually requires additional support at floor level. You can elect to: a) add foundations or beams; b) use a reinforced flooring system strong enough to support blockwork walls; or c) switch to lightweight studwork instead.

Studwork doesn’t have to be timber: steel channel is light weight and fast to erect, making it ideal for partition walls where loading isn’t an issue.

ABOVE: Solid blockwork easily creates load-bearing walls and allows for a wet-plastered finish. BELOW: Stud walls, which are standard in timber frame houses, may require the doubling-up of uprights.

Wall Finishes and Soundproofing

One of the main reasons people use block - work for internal walls is that it is perceived to offer much better sound proofing between rooms. Another is that it enables you to get a wet-plastered finish. Studwork advocates would argue that you can get soundproofing levels just as good by carefully choosing your materials, and that you can give a wetskim finish to a board; but traditionalists might need convincing. What you can say is that erecting either blockwork walls on a first floor, or acoustically enhanced stud walls anywhere, involves a number of extra costs over and above the standard methods.

You can go to great lengths to soundproof bedroom walls but a bedroom is only as soundproof as its weakest link — and that’s usually the door. Tips include fitting an acoustic doorset (at considerable expense), placing built-in cupboards between rooms you want to isolate, and avoiding placing switches and sockets in noise-sensitive walls.

Further Reading:

• How to Build Studwork Walls
• Removing Walls: DIY Advice
• Soundproofing: The Key Rules
• A Guide to Construction Systems