How To Tile A Wall

The cost of tiles and necessary materials quickly mounts up, so you may resent paying a pro the £20/m² for fixing them.

Tiling has a reputation for being difficult to do and many DIYers avoid it; but with a bit of preparation and a methodical approach you will find the job straightforward enough.

Having the right tools also helps. For around £40 you can buy a diamond-bladed electric tile cutter that takes all the hassle out of getting the shapes you need. If you are tiling a large area its worth getting a full-size metal notched trowel for spreading adhesive (from 8). This is much easier than using the tiny plastic trowels that come with adhesive. A big grout spreader (from around £5-30) is also a good idea.

When you buy your materials, tell the assistant where you plan to tile and they will supply the correct type of adhesive and grout to suit the job. While you are in the shop, take a look at some of the tile board displays and decide on the size of grout gap you want between your tiles. Tile spacers can be bought in sizes from 1mm upwards. We prefer the ready-to-use type that are sold in bags rather than the fiddly type that you have to snap out of a plastic frame before use.

Tool List:

• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Screwdriver
• Tile cutter
• Tile saw
• Tile nibblers
• Notched trowel
• Grout
• Grout spreader
• Sponge

Materials Needed:

• Tiles
• Adhesive
• Grout
• Tile spacers
• Lengths of batten
• Screws
• PVA solution

Step-by-Step:

1. Measure the area to be tiled. Tiles are normally priced by the square metre so it makes things easier to measure in metric. To get the square metre size, multiply the width of the area to be tiled by the height (a wall 2m wide by 2m high needs four square metres of tiles to cover it). Its a good idea to add on five per cent to your final measurement to allow for breakages. If the area looks like it will take a lot of cuts, go for an eight per cent contingency.

2. Prepare the surface to be tiled. If old tiles have been stripped off, make sure that the adhesive has gone too. Fill any large holes and clean off dust and grime before starting. The plywood backing board on this shower enclosure was coated with a PVA bonding solution to maximise tile adhesion. Your tile supplier will be able to suggest any necessary treatments for the walls you plan to work on

3. Few tiling jobs end up with perfect whole tiles on each edge or at the top and the bottom houses are rarely that forgiving. A gauge stick stops you from getting ridiculously small bits of tile on the edges and helps to create a professional finish. Make a gauge stick by laying a row of tiles (including spacers) across two pieces of 1cm x 3cm wooden batten.

Mark the edges of each tile onto one of the pieces of batten, remove the tiles and draw the lines across the face of the batten with a set square.

4. Lay the gauge stick vertically against the wall to get an idea where the horizontal rows of tiles will fall.

If the area to be tiled includes a window, aim to get complete tiles around the frame. Adjust the stick up or down to avoid getting small strips at the top or bottom of the wall. When youre happy with the position, mark the bottom of the lowest complete row of tiles (don't add on a grout gap).

5. Line up the top edge of a wooden batten with the mark you made in step 4. Check for level and then screw it in place.

6. Measure across the wall and make a mark at the centre point. Use the gauge stick either side of this mark to work out where the tiles will fall. As before, avoid any thin strips on either edge by moving the gauge stick to suit. Make a pencil mark at the right-hand edge of the last complete row of tiles. Fix a batten so its outer edge lines up with this mark.

The batten should extend to the top of the area to be tiled. Check that it is vertical with a spirit level.

7. Tiles can vary in finish so open all the boxes and take tiles from each to spread any variation across the wall.

8. Spread half a square metre of adhesive along the line of the bottom batten with a notched trowel. The notches dictate adhesive thickness, but if you get any lumps, rework them with the trowel. Push the first tile into the corner section created by the battens then lay a line of tiles and spacers along the batten. Fix each tile into place with a firm wiggle (to help adhesive grab) followed by a pat with the flat of your hand.

9. Build up two or three complete rows then check for level across the top and on the faces of the tiles.

10. Fix all the complete tiles you can (checking levels along the way) and then scrape out any excess adhesive from between the tiles. Wipe off adhesive on tile faces with a damp cloth.

11. Cut tiles to fit the top edge. Measure for each individual tile (less grout gap) rather than cutting a batch all at the same potentially wrong size.

12. For cuts around pipes and other awkward shapes, make a card template the same size as the tiles you are using. Mark and cut the template and transfer to a tile with a pencil.

13. Use tile nibblers to remove small sections or a tile saw for larger areas. To cut large holes use a tile hole saw. Kits are available from DIY stores from 25. Leave the adhesive to set (normally 24 hours) and then remove the wooden battens. Cut and fix tiles to fill these gaps and leave the adhesive to set. Grout normally needs to be mixed up from a powder and just a little variation can change its colour. To avoid this, grout the whole area in one go.

14. Apply the grout with a rubber-bladed applicator, pushing it into the gaps between the tiles. Wipe off the excess with a light sweep of the applicator before cleaning up with a damp sponge.

15. When the grout is dry, give the tiles a shine up with a soft cloth.

Further reading:

• How to Lay Floor Tiles
• How to Replace a Broken Tile
• Bathroom Wall Tiles